Hooray for Moray and the beauty of Buchan

The fourth part of the North East 250 driving route from Fochabers to Fraserburgh is only around 50 miles long. Motorists who stick to the main A98 can complete the distance in around an hour - but it means missing out on a lot.

It is worth taking time to wander off the beaten path and explore some of the picturesque villages that line the coastal route, starting with a left turn just out of Fochabers on to the A990 towards the tiny community of Portgordon.

Established in 1797 by Alexander, the 4th Duke of Gordon, for fishing initially it became a thriving port for grain, salt, coal and lumber in the mid 1800s. By the dawn of the 20th century it was an important centre for boat building, launching a new steam drifter at a rate of one a month at its peak.

The Mannie, Findochty harbour

Photo Colin Smith CC BY-SA 2.0

The village was one of the last communities in the North East to get electricity. Street lighting was introduced in the 1920s but there was no gas supply so paraffin was used, resulting in the nickname Paraffin City, until power finally reached the village in 1937.

A more recent claim to fame is that during World War II German spies, Karl Drucke and Vera Erikson were captured at the railway station and detained by police. Erikson was recruited by MI5 and turned double agent but Drucke and another agent, Werner Walti, refused to say anything and were executed.

From Portgordon the A990 road follows the coast to Buckie. This ancient fishing and ship building community was first mentioned in official papers as far back as 1362.

Buckie is a popular destination for visitors due to its stunning coastline and beaches, abundance of wildlife - including otters, ospreys and dolphins which can be regularly be seen for the shore, and two nearby golf courses.

Cullen

Photo by VisitScotland/North East 250/Damian Shields

It is also home to the Inchgower Distillery, built in 1871 and operated by Diageo,which makes a single malt and Bell’s, the UK’s most popular blended whisky.

Just outside the village, situated between Portlessie and Findochty lies Strathlene Golf Course. Established in 1877 it is one of the oldest in Scotland. The cliff top links is renowned for its undulating fairways, gullies and elevated greens.

Just outside the village, situated between Portlessie and Findochty lies Strathlene Golf Course. Established in 1877 it is one of the oldest in Scotland. The cliff top links is renowned for its undulating fairways, gullies and elevated greens.

Findochty (pronounced fin-eck-ty) is the next community on the map. It can be traced back to before 1440 when the lands were granted to John Dufe before passing to the Ogilvies of Findlater, and then the Ord family

Cullen Auld Kirk

Photo Anne Burgess CC BY-SA 2.0

Now mainly a marina for pleasure craft its long history as a fishing port is immortalised in a unique piece of art. Correna Cowie created the statue in 1959 of a seated fisherman, known simply as The Mannie, to watch over the harbour.

On the outskirts of the village are the ruins of Findochty Castle, a 16th century tower house built by the Gordons.

After Findochty the road goes through the historic village of Portnockie, a major herring port in the 19th century.

Although officially founded in 1677 people were living in the area long before that. There is evidence of an ancient fort, dating from around 1000BC, called Green Castle which is believed to have been inhabited until 1000AD.

Cullen

Photo by VisitScotland/North East 250/Damian Shields

Just outside the village lies one of the most photographed natural wonders in Scotland - Bow Fiddle Rock. Resembling the tip of a bow the distinctive sloped sides of this 50ft high quartzite structure were caused by the impact of two ancient continents colliding hundreds of millions of years ago.

After leaving Portnockie the road rejoins the A98 to Cullen, another picturesque seaside village with plenty of history and a culinary claim to fame.

The first mention of Cullen can be traced back to 962 when King Indulf was killed by invading Danes or Norwegians at the Battle of the Bauds. Legend has it that three kings - one Scottish, one Norwegian and one Danish - are buried in the area and are celebrated by three isolated rocks that lie within the bay known as the Three Kings.

However, Cullen’s royal connections don’t end there. It’s believed the organs of Elizabeth de Burgh, wife of Robert the Bruce, were buried in the old kirk yard following her death in October 1327.

Findlater Castle

Photo by VisitScotland/North East 250/Damian Shields

The Queen had been visiting Cullen Castle, which was then a royal residence, when she fell from her horse and died. Although her body was taken to Dunfermline Abbey for burial local villagers feared her remains would not survive the journey so her internal organs were removed.

In recognition of this act of kindness The Bruce decreed that the local church should receive the generous sum of £5 Scottish pounds every year for all eternity so that she could be remembered. The money is still paid today.

Other famous visitors to Cullen over the years include Sr Samuel Johnson, James Boswell and Robert Burns, who stayed there in 1787 during a tour of the Highlands.

In addition to an Old Tom Morris designed golf course the most imposing feature of Cullen are the railway viaducts. Considered one of the great achievements of Victorian engineering, they were built in 1886 by the Great North of Scotland Railway.

Boyndie Bay, Banff

Photo by VisitScotland/North East 250/Damian Shields

Although no longer used for trains the viaducts provide some of the best views of the town and surrounding landscape of lush hills, sandy beaches and rocky outcrops.

However, the village is probably best known as the home of a favourite Scottish delicacy - Cullen Skink, a thick creamy soup made with smoked haddock, potatoes and onions.

Just outside Cullen lie the remains of Findlater Castle, which sits upon a 50ft-high cliff on the road to Portsoy. This former seat of the Earls of Findlater and Seafield dates back to at least 1246. Much the remains that can be seen today date from the 14th century when the castle was extensively rebuilt.

Next stop is the beautiful port of Portsoy which dates from the 17th century. The original harbour is the oldest on the Moray Firth and was both a haven for fishermen and merchants.

Gardenstown

Photo by Paul Tomkins/VisitScotland

The town is renowned for its Portsoy Marble, or rather polished red and green serpentine, which was exported for use in mansions and castles around the world, including the Palace of Versailles.

Since 1993 Portsoy has been home to the annual Scottish Traditional Boat Festival. It was also used as the principal location for the 1026 remake of the movie Whisky Galore, based on the best selling novel by Compton Mackenzie.

Between Portsoy and Whitehills lies Boyndie, home to the former RAF Banff overlooking the white sands of Inverboyndie beach and beautiful views of the Moray Firth. A memorial alongside the A98 is dedicated to the 80 airmen killed while flying from here in WWII.

Next stop is Banff, a thriving community since at least the 12th century when a castle was but there to repel Viking invaders.

Crovie

Photo by Paul Kelbie

Royal Burgh status was conferred by King Robert II in 1372 and by the 15th century it was one of three principal towns exporting salmon to the continent of Europe, alongside Aberdeen and Montrose.

Today, the town remains one of the best-preserved in the country with many historic buildings, including a pre-Reformation market cross, Tolbooth, 17th and 18th century townhouses, a museum donated by Andrew Carnegie and one of the finest classical mansions in Scotland, Duff House.

Designed by William Adam in 1730 for the 1st Earl of Fife. Duff House is now part of the National Galleries of Scotland and hosts regular public exhibitions. The surrounding lands are notable for an old ice house, a mausoleum and a secluded single-arch bridge spanning the River Deveron known as the Bridge of Alvah.

There is also a James Braid designed golf course, Duff House Royal, in the grounds of the former estate and, in case anyone is wondering, the Canadian town of Banff and the National Park in Alberta were named after this Scottish town.

Pennan

Photo by VisitScotland/Discover Fraserburgh/Damian Shields

Just across the river lies Macduff, the last place in the UK where deep-water wooden fishing boats were built.

Originally known as Doune the settlement was bought by the 1st Earl of Fife in 1733 and the name changed by his son, the 2nd Earl, in 1760 in honour of King Duff, the 10th century King of Alba.

Today the town is a centre for boat building and repairs but is best known among tourists for its aquarium exhibiting a variety of species found in the North Sea.

The B9031 out of Macduff provides an opportunity to explore the picturesque villages of Gardenstown, Crovie and Pennan.

Pitsligo Castle

Photo Sagaciousphil CC BY-SA 3.0

Ever since the Neolithic or Bronze Age people have lived around the area of Gardenstown. Evidence of their presence can still be found at nearby Longman Hill and Cairn Lee. the two oldest prehistoric features in the area.

Just outside Gardenstown there’s the remains of St John the Evangelist, a church built in 1513 to celebrate victory over invading Danes in 1004 at the Battle of the Bloody Pits.

A short walk from Gardenstown along the coastal path lies Crovie. Built on a narrow strip of land between the cliffs and the sea it was founded in the wake of the Jacobite rebellions by families forced off the land to make way for sheep. It is probably the most perfectly preserved 18th century village of its size in Europe.

Crovie has seen its share of dramatic storms, shipwrecks and even espionage. Two German spies rowed ashore here in 1941 and immediately defected to the allies to become double agents for MI5 codenamed Mutt and Jeff.

Alexander 4th Lord Forbes of Pitsligo, by Alexis-Simon Belle

The last of the three villages is Pennan, famous for being a location for the Bill Forsyth film, 'Local Hero’. It is located in an area of outstanding natural beauty where little has changed for many years.

Back on the road to Fraserburgh the route goes through New Aberdour, a favourite beach location for locals, to the tiny village of Rosehearty.

Originally founded as a settlement by shipwrecked Danes in the 14th century the area became a stronghold of the Fraser family who built nearby Pitsligo Castle in 1424.

Now a ruin it was once home to Alexander Forbes, the 4th Lord Forbes of Pitsligo who was known as the Jacobite Laird.

Pittulie Castle

Photo Sagaciousphil CC BY-SA 3.0

Forbes spent much of his life as an outlaw, having taken part in both failed Jacobite rising of 1715 and 1745. After Culloden the 68-year-old Laird was forced to disguise himself as a bigger and live in a cave near his former castle which had been seized by the British government.

Pitsligo is one of the nine castles of the Knuckle, which refers to the ricky headland which dominates this stretch of the coastline. Another is the nearby Pittulie Castle, a 16th century tower house and former stronghold of the Fraser family.

Fraserburgh is the last stop on this leg of the journey. Now the biggest shellfish port in Scotland its name literally means the town of Fraser, the clan that built so many tower houses in the area, including Fraserburgh Castle which is now Kinnaird Head Lighthouse.

The town has a lot to see, including The Museum of Scottish Lighthouses, Fraserburgh Heritage Centre, an award winning beach and Fraserburgh Golf Club - the fifth oldest course in Scotland and the seventh oldest in the world.

The town is also home to the internationally important Cairness House, built in the Neoclassical style by renowned 18th century architect James Playfair.

Fraserburgh is famous as the birthplace of a number of notable historical characters, including Thomas Blake Glover. He was the first non-Japanese person to be awarded the prestigious ‘Order of the Rising Sun’. Nicknamed the Scottish Samurai he helped modernise Japan and his legacy is still revered throughout his adopted country,

It is also the home of Charles Jarvis, the first man to win the Victoria Cross in World War I, and two notable anti-slave campaigners - Charles Rawden Maclean and James Ramsay. Ramsay is credited with being instrumental in the abolition of the British slave trade in 1807.