Autumn 2013 Taster

A LOCH LOMOND BREAK WITH CRUISE + BREWERY TOUR WORTH OVER £350

1,400km

by paddle power alone – a kayak adventure

Like climbing, only

BOULDER We pick the FIVE best spots to try it

Saddle up

See the Highlands on horseback

There’s something we need to shriek to you about

IN LOVE WITH LOTHIAN

Hills, rivers, islands – did somebody mention a city?

FRESHWATER TREASURES

Experts encouraged by the health of our lochs

PLUS: The bat man of Threave • Felicity Aston, polar explorer • Pick the best daysack for you

www.scotoutdoors.com

Autumn 2013 £3.95

WHITEWATER SLEDGING

Adverts autumn 2013_cover ads 23/08/2013 16:39 Page 2

Loch Lomond &

the Clyde Sea Lochs

Scotland’ cotland’s d’’s natural d natural play playground ground

Enjoy a short break or day out this autumn by the bonnie banks...tranquil walks... activities and adventures...family fun...food, drink and shopping...scenic boat trips...relaxation and much more in and around Scotland’s first National Park.

F For or more more great great ideas and offers of fers this this autumn visit:

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A word from the editor

Meig Gorge p62 Torridon p14

W

Fort William p24

Glen Nevis p14

The Cobbler p06

The Trossachs p14 The Bass Rock p51 p39

Dumbarton Rock p14

EXPLORE LOTHIAN

Arran p14

Castle Douglas p72

Cover shot: James MacRae A LOCH LOMOND BREAK WITH CRUISE + BREWERY TOUR WORTH OVER £350

BOULDERING AT LOCH RUTHVEN

1,400km

by paddle power alone – a kayak adventure

Like climbing, only

BOULDER We pick the FIVE best spots to try it

Saddle up

See the Highlands on horseback

There’s something we need to shriek to you about

IN LOVE WITH LOTHIAN

Hills, rivers, islands – did somebody mention a city?

FRESHWATER TREASURES

Experts encouraged by the health of our lochs

PLUS: The bat man of Threave t Felicity Aston, polar explorer t Pick the best daysack for you

www.scotoutdoors.com

Autumn 2013 £3.95

WHITEWATER SLEDGING

Seeing double? This issue, we’ve added a special cover for our loyal subscribers. Both selected from the same shoot, but for different reasons.

The one on the left needs to appeal to people who may not have come across the magazine before, so has plenty of space for coverlines to grab their attention. The one below is less cluttered, as we feel our subscribers deserve something special.

Both marvellous shots, the striking rock textures shown within the grandeur of the landscape go a long way to conveying the special appeal of bouldering. The climber, dressed in jeans and T-shirt as though for a stroll down the High Street, could have gone up the rock on a whim – were it not for the chalk bag attached to his waist.

Read about other places to enjoy the sport of bouldering on pages 14-15 and see more of James’s images on his flickr photostream.

www.scotoutdoors.com

elcome to the autumn issue of Scotland Outdoors, in which I hope you’ll find plenty to like. It’s certainly been a satisfying one to put together, which is always a good sign.

There is much to mention, but a good starting point is the source of the Water of Leith. Richard Rowe follows this fascinating river through the capital city to tell a tale of industry, adventure and care for nature. Ida Maspero ventures among the islands of the Firth of Forth and we complement this with a guide to the best of this region, sometimes under-rated from an outdoors point of view.

Jonny Hawkins makes the most of his youthful energy by dreaming up paddling adventures. The one he recounts here involves kayaking right round Scotland, and it leaves us open-mouthed with admiration for his indefatigable spirit and infectious love of our country.

Marie-Amélie Viatte is a seasoned horse-rider but even she had done nothing quite like the rugged expedition through the northern Highlands that she describes for us here. If anyone thinks riding is basically sitting still, be prepared to revise that view.

There will always be two strands to Scotland Outdoors, connected yet distinct. One is recreation, the other is conservation – and the latter is well represented in this issue, most notably by Laurence Carvalho’s expert look at the encouraging health of our lochs. There are signs of success elsewhere, too, with sea eagles breeding on the east coast and Scots conservationists helping to reintroduce ospreys to the Basque Country. Personalities abound, such as polar explorer Felicity Aston and bat ranger Jackie Kemp, both working for wildlife.

Have a good, relalxing autumn and enjoy your Scotland Outdoors.

Don Currie Editor, Scotland Outdoors don@scotoutdoors.com

Scotland Outdoors online You can find our website at www.scotoutdoors.com Look out for special online features and sign up for our e-newsletter to receive regular updates

Join us on Facebook and tell your friends! www.tinyurl.com/somagfb You can also follow us on twitter www.twitter.com/scotoutdoors AUTUMN 2013

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CONTENTS

34

Contributors

Felicity Aston

Jonny Hawkins

Being the first woman to ski solo across Antarctica is a great achievement. So was leading a group of women, some of whom had never seen snow, to the South Pole. As she prepares to visit the world’s coldest inhabited place, Felicity explains what warms her heart.

Outdoor passions, page 26

A talented whitewater kayaker and all-round busy man, Jonny spent the summer working as an outdoor instructor on Skye to save for a canoeing trip to Borneo. In this issue he recounts an epic kayak voyage round Scotland. What’s that? It’s not an island? Details, details...

Experience, page 34

28

Jackie Kemp

Marie-Amelie Viatte

After 30 years in manufacturing, Jackie changed direction by doing a BSc in countryside management at Scotland’s Rural College, Ayr, and is now ranger at the National Trust for Scotland’s Threave Bat Reserve near Castle Douglas. He takes us through a busy day – and night – with the bats and visitors Day in the life, page 72

Having been an environmental and social affairs policy analyst, Marie-Amélie is a firm believer in the importance of the great outdoors for our wellbeing. For past 30 years, she has been exploring nature on horseback.

Here she shares her experience of long-distance trail riding in the far north of Scotland.

Adventure, page 28

CONTENTS PHOTOGRAPHY: ANGELA MERCER; BOOTS N PADDLES; CENTRE FOR ECOLOGY & HYDROLOGY; CYCLETHERAPY; DAVID TIPLING; JONNY HAWKINS; MARIE-AMELIE VIATTE; NATIONAL TRUST FOR SCOTLAND; RICHARD ROWE

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The Scotland Outdoors team Editor: Don Currie t 0131 556 2220 e don@scotoutdoors.com

CMYK

Publisher: Neil Braidwood e neil@scotoutdoors.com Contributing editor: Richard Rowe e richard@scotoutdoors.com Design: Matt McArthur, Fiona Wilson e production@scotoutdoors.com

PEFC Certified This product is from sustainably managed forests, recycled and controlled sources PEFC/16-33-533

www.pefc.org

Advertising sales: Alison Fraser t 0141 946 8708 e alison@scotoutdoors.com Subscriptions: Nikola Mossop t 0131 556 2220 e subscribe@scotoutdoors.com Stockist inquiries: Hayley Orr t 0131 556 2220 e hayley@scotoutdoors.com Print: Acorn web Published by: CMYK Design 91 East London St, Edinburgh EH7 4BQ w cmyk-design.co.uk

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Scotland Outdoors magazine (ISSN 1757-224X) is published four times a year by CMYK Design, Edinburgh. No part of Scotland Outdoors may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior permission of the publisher.

We reserve the right to edit letters, copy or images submitted to us without further consent. We take no responsibility for unsolicited or requested manuscripts or images. Opinions expressed by individual writers may not be those of the publisher. While every reasonable care is taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher is not responsible for any errors or omissions, nor will accept liability for any loss or damage, howsoever caused, resulting from the use of Scotland Outdoors. The publisher recognises all copyrights and trademarks.

All content © CMYK Design 2013

Scotland Outdoors Autumn 2013

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FEATURES ADVENTURE

28

View from the saddle

Long-distance riding is a different world from trotting round a field. A trail ride in the splendour of the Highlands was uplifting and challenging for Marie-Amélie Viatte

EXPERIENCE Back to the beginning

34

Circumnavigating Scotland poses obvious practical problems. But tireless kayaker Jonny Hawkins managed it. Find out how

EXPLORE Lothian The people’s river

ADVENTURE Rocky ride

39

The Water of Leith rises in the peace of the Pentlands to flow into the Forth amid cranes and traffic. Richard Rowe traces its course

Whitewater sledging and looking cool are two things that simply cannot be done simultaneously, as Don Currie discovers

51

Island expedition

58

Adventure capital

62

WILDLIFE & ECOLOGY Healthy samples

64

Scientists constantly monitor the health of Scotland’s lochs. One of them, Laurence Carvalho, has encouraging news

Bass Rock is known internationally, its fellow Forth islands less so. But, as Ida Maspero discovers, all have a strong appeal

Edinburgh is forever topping “quality of life” charts. But for ouotdoors people, its surrounding region has just as much to offer

REGULARS

04 14

72

06 08 14

24

17 08

www.scotoutdoors.com

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Book choice Our pick of some of the very best new outdoor titles

Big picture The Cobbler

News Outdoor news from around Scotland

Top five ...

Bouldering spots Spectacular haunts for climbers who value quality above height and danger

Events Get active with our guide to the best outdoor events and sources of inspiration

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24 26

20 64

Reader adventures Your photographs of great days out

Gear Choosing the right daysack for your needs can make all the difference to a day in the outdoors. Plus: we highlight some of the most innovative new outdoor products on the market

72

Board and lodging Glenloy Lodge Where your fellow guests at breakfast time may well include a friendly family of pine martens

Outdoor passions Felicity Aston, polar explorer and environmentalist, explains why snow and ice means so much to her

Day in the life How exhilaration, exertion and a moment of sadness were all in the mix during an eventful day at work for bat ranger Jackie Kemp

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READER • ADVENTURES

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HERE ARE SOME FAVOURITE RECENT PICTURES SENT IN BY READERS. WE HOPE YOU ENJOY THEM

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Who done it?

1 Luskentyre beach, Harris, by the Chapman family 2 Kenny Clements’s bike beside Loch Katrine, taken for his book Loch Katrine – Views from the Saddle 3 Close encounter with a lamb near Hawick, by Adele Richardson 4 Southerness Lighthouse, by Susan Rowe 5 Descending to Sourlies bothy on a solo walk along the Cape Wrath Trail, by Raf Bauer 6 Traigh Mheilein, Harris, by Pauline Taylor 7 Mark Newton on Mam Rattigan, Wester Ross, on his way round Britain by mobility scooter to raise money for Help for Heroes PLEASE KEEP THE PICTURES COMING:

Show us what you get up to and we will publish the best pictures in our next issue. Just tell us where you are and what you are doing.

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Email your high-resolution images to: adventures@scotoutdoors.com Alternatively, you can share them on our Facebook page: www.tinyurl.com/somagfb

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Scotland Outdoors Autumn 2013

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Share your adventures We want to paint a vivid picture of Scotland’s unique wild places and the many ways our readers enjoy them.

To contribute, simply join our group and start adding!

www.flickr.com/groups/scotoutdoors www.scotoutdoors.com

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BIG PICTURE •

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High drama PHOTOGRAPH: RUSSELL LEES

The Cobbler Excitement, beauty, and an exhilarating sense of space – this scene has it all. The peak is that of The Cobbler, also called Ben Arthur, and the water far below is Loch Long.

Despite its sheer summit of bare rock, the mountain is not a hard one to climb – and, like the whole panorama shown here, is within easy reach for millions of Scots.

Many enjoy their first experience of the outdoors on or around Loch Lomond and the Clyde sea lochs, of which Loch Long is one. Often they develop a lifelong love of hill-walking, bird-watching, cycling, sailing, kayaking, windsurfing or wild swimming – all of which can be enjoyed to the full here.

The Cobbler – so called because its topmost rock is said to look like a cobbler bending over his last – is the classic proof that a hill can offer a magical climb, whatever its height. This one is about 100ft short of the 3,000ft required for a place in Munro’s Tables, but reaching the top requires a good head for heights. The final steps go through a hole in the rock – “threading the needle” and along a sloping ledge, requiring no rope but lots of nerve.

For confirmed Munroists, several other peaks in the Arrochar Alps group are on the list, waiting to be bagged.

They played a leading role in the rise of hill-walking as a pursuit for the masses, rather than for a wealthy elite, as working people on Clydeside began to explore them early in the last century.

These hills are to the west of Loch Lomond, but on the opposite side rises an even more celebrated peak, Ben Lomond, at 3,196ft. After Scotland’s highest mountain,

Ben Nevis, this is probably the most climbed Munro. Fit walkers reach the top in three hours from Rowardennan.

But this part of the country is also a great destination for walkers who prefer to stay lower down. Two long-distance footpaths, the West Highland Way and the lesser known but equally dramatic Three Lochs Way, pass through here.

Loch Lomond’s many islands enhance the views from vantage points such as Conic Hill. One, Inchmurrin, is the biggest on an inland water anywhere in Britain.

This is the inspirational area that gave rise to the song The Banks of Loch Lomond, published in 1841 and sung the world over. The Victorian poet Gerard Manley Hopkins wrote Inversnaid following a visit to the waterfall of that name. One of its lines, “Long live the weeds and the wilderness yet” is still often quoted by conservationists.

And this part of Scotland is at the forefront of the conservation movement today. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs is one our two national parks, the other being the Cairngorms. Its rich flora attracts a variety of birds, including wildfowl, warblers, flycatchers and black grouse.

A visit will be richly repaid at any time of year, but the colours make autumn particularly special. Many photographers particularly love the birchwoods that fringe Loch Ard and Loch Chon, and the larches of the Argyll Forest Park. What are you waiting for?

Find out more See www.lovelochlomond.com for more inspiration and some great autumn break deals.

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