Scuba Diver ANZ #47

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TRULY TUBBATAHA

DON SILCOCK FINALLY MAKES IT TO THE PHILIPPINES POST-COVID

MIKHAIL LERMONTOV PETE MESLEY GOES ON A WHISTLESTOP TOUR OF THE OCEAN LINER

DIVING WITH… JULES CASEY PT HIRSCHFIELD CHATS TO THE INSTAGRAM PHENOMENON ABOUT HER FREEDIVING

Wreck

HEAVEN EXPLORING AUSTRALIA’S EX-HMAS ARTIFICIAL REEFS

THAILAND

MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY

RAJA AMPAT ISSUE #47



EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mark Evans Email: mark@scubadivermag.com DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER Matt Griffiths Email: matt@scubadivermag.com CONTRIBUTORS Jean-Pierre Nathrass, Terry Smith, PT Hirschfield, Simon Mallender PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Ross Arnold Email: ross@scubadivermag.com BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Penney Evans Email: penney@scubadivermag.com

AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND AND SOUTHEAST ASIA TEAM Adrian Stacey Editor (Australia and New Zealand) Tel: +61 422 611 238 Email: adrian@scubadivermag.com Don Silcock Senior Travel Editor www.indopacificimages.com

MAGAZINE To stock Scuba Diver in your centre, email: subscriptions@scubadivermag.com

PUBLISHERS Rork Media ANZ Pty Ltd 193 Latrobe Terrace, PADDINGTON, QLD 4064 Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the views of the publishers. Copyright for material published remains with Rork Media Limited. Use of material from Scuba Diver is strictly prohibited unless permission is given. All advertisements of which the creative content is in whole or in part the work of Rork Media Limited remain the copyright of Rork Media Limited.

is a registered trademark of Rork Media. ISSN 2515-9593

Times are changing and to keep the magazines free, we’re asking dive stores to cover their own postage costs. If you enjoy reading the magazine, think about helping out your centre with a small donation to help cover their costs. Your continued support is most appreciated.

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Climate a major issue for Australians The recent election results here in Australia have clearly indicated that the environment has become a significant issue for the vast majority of Australians. Climate change has been strongly connected with the hugely destructive bush fires in 2019 and, more recently, the storms and floods that have battered the east coast. Plus the stress rising sea temperatures are causing on our reefs, so it can only be a good thing that the environment is now a mainstream issue and something that governments now ignore at their peril. This issue of the magazine features a review of the Ex HMAS wrecks that have been sunk around the coast of Australia over the past few decades. Every mainland state has at least one of these spectacular artificial reefs, and we take a closer look at what each one has to offer in a bumper 10-page article. For an international flavour, Don Silcock travelled to the Philippines to visit the fabled Tubbataha reef, a place that has drawn comparisons to Raja Ampat and a destination that has been on Don’s radar for quite some time now. We have Terry Smiths second instalment from his recent trip to the Southern reaches of the Andaman Sea in Thailand. There is also a great article about some of the local inhabitants of Raja Ampat’s glorious reefs. There are the usual columns from DAN, SSI and Diveplanit, plus Photography tips from Alex Mustard. The conservation section this month takes a look at the grey nurse sharks and the efforts being made to ensure its survival. We also have a brand new column called Diving With… Each month PT Hirschfield will be speaking with a well know member of the dive community to bring you a fascinating insight into their world. Adrian Stacey, Editor (Australia & New Zealand)

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“We are thrilled to be returning in a few months! The reef systems here are the most unspoiled we have seen in our travels around the world and the resort is paradise. We can’t wait to see all our friends at Wakatobi.” ~ Robert and Barbara Hay


An experience without equal At Wakatobi, you don’t compromise on comfort to get away from it all. A private guest flight brings you directly to a remote island, where all the indulgences of a five-star resort and luxury liveaboard await. The Wakatobi dive team will ensure your in-water experiences are perfectly matched to your abilities and interests so your underwater encounters can create memories that will remain vivid and rewarding long after your visit is concluded. While at the resort, or on board the dive yacht Pelagian, you need only ask and the Wakatobi team will provide any service or facility within its power. This unmatched combination of world-renowned reefs and first-class luxuries put Wakatobi in a category all its own.

www.wakatobi.com


TRULY TUBBATAHA

DON SILCOCK FINALLY MAKES IT TO THE PHILIPPINES POST-COVID

MIKHAIL LERMONTOV PETE MESLEY GOES ON A WHISTLESTOP TOUR OF THE OCEAN LINER

DIVING WITH… JULES CASEY PT HIRSCHFIELD CHATS TO THE INSTAGRAM PHENOMENON ABOUT HER FREEDIVING

Wreck

HEAVEN EXPLORING AUSTRALIA’S EX-HMAS ARTIFICIAL REEFS

THAILAND

MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY

RAJA AMPAT ISSUE #47

PHOTOGRAPH © KERRIE BUROW

Regular columns

Monthly features...

10 News round-up

22 Australia

A beach clean-up in Africa, new Aggressor boat in the Philippines, Emperor Divers move location in Marsa Alam, and Parineeti Chopra becomes PADI AmbassaDiver.

18 DAN Medical Q&A

The experts from the Divers Alert Network offer advice for those having trouble breathing after clearing their mask.

Australia is not usually a dive destination that is associated with wreck diving. but it might come as a surprise to some that this vast country’s 34,000km of coastline is also home to a staggering amount of rusting metal, especially the exHMAS wrecks.

36 The Philippines

The DAN team explain how a delayed evacuation almost cost a diver full recovery.

Scuba Diver Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock finally makes it to the Philippines after a Covid-induced delay, but he reckons his liveaboard adventure to Tubbataha was well worth the wait.

82 Conservation Corner

44 Mustard’s Masterclass

48 Divers Alert Network Asia-Pacific

A new aggregation of the critically endangered grey nurse sharks is emerging on the Sunshine Coast, Queensland.

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In this issue, underwater photography guru Alex Mustard focuses his attention on macro photography techniques.

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...continued

Gear & testing

50 Diving with... Jules Casey

74 What’s New

First in a new series in which PT Hirschfield chats to various diving icons. In this issue, it is Jules Casey, who has become a bit of an Instagram phenomenon for her freediving adventures.

54 TECH: New Zealand

Pete Mesley is a regular visitor to the enormous ocean liner Mikhail Lermontov, and here he takes us on a whistlestop tour of New Zealand’s iconic tech-wreck.

We take a look at the latest new releases, including the Mares Ergotrim Guardian and Grace, Fourth Element Tidal robe, Apeks Halo spool, Tecline V1 Tec II regulator, Paralenz Vaquita flip mount and macro lens bundle, and SeaLife SeaDragon Fluoro-Dual Beam video light.

76 Test Extra

Scuba Diver Editorial Director Mark Evans rates and reviews the new Fourth Element Tech Fins.

68 Thailand, part two

Terry Smith experiences some amazing diving in the South Andaman Sea aboard The Phinisi, and feels like he has contributed via a spot of shark-related citizen science.

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Discover Fiji’s best dive regions Fiji’s colourful reefs are a bucket list dive for all dive enthusiasts. Balmy oceans and great visibility are just part of the reason why you’ll log memorable adventures here. Over the coming months we will be giving you a run down on what each of these spectacular regions have to offer. SUNCOAST - RAKIRAKI A 2½ hour drive north of Nadi, diving off Rakiraki on Fiji’s Suncoast is one of Fiji’s not so best kept secrets. This pocket of paradise promises pristine reefs and over 50 dive sites in the Bligh Waters and Vatui-Ra Passage. The waters off the Suncoast are considered the “new” soft coral capital of Fiji – a maze of barely submerged coral stacks and pinnacles, festooned with soft

corals and alive with crowds of brightly coloured reef fish. Black Magic Mountain is a classic Fiji dive site with beautiful healthy coral. It’s best known for schooling fish like big eye jacks, fusiliers and anthias, as well as several different species of sharks and rays. Then there is Instant Replay and just like the name suggests, once you’ve done it, you’ll want to do it again. Perhaps Instant Replay’s best

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feature is the deeper coral heads covered in yellow and purple soft corals. A cluster of resorts can be found around the island’s northern-most peninsula. The area is also known for great hiking, deep sea fishing and seasonal kiteboarding and windsurfing. Volivoli Beach Resort and Wananavu Beach Resort make for ideal base camps for weeklong dive adventures. n


Topside Adventures • Nabalasere Village & Waterfall trip (Fiji’s largest waterfall) • Sunset cruises • Island discovery cruise • Dolphin encounter - a large pod of friendly spinner dolphins • Ridge trekking • Rakiraki markets • Tomb of Ratu Udre Udre - ‘the world’s most prolific cannibal’ • Church of the Black Christ

Guide to Fiji Flying – There are flights from most major Australian and New Zealand cities Direct to Nadi. From Nadi the Suncoast - RakiRaki region is around a 2-hour dive. Diving – is all year round, but rainy season is from November to April. The winter months between May – October are the main diving season with the best visibility from July to December. Currency – The Fijian Dollar (AUD 1 = FJD 1.5) Entry/Visas – Fiji has done way with most COVID 19 restrictions but it is always best to check what the current travel rules are on an official website or with a travel agent. Visas are not needed for visits of up to 4 months providing you have an onward or return ticket. For business you will be granted a stay of 14 days on arrival. Electricity – Fiji has the same voltage and plugs as Australia and New Zealand.

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Each month, we bring together the latest industry news from the Asia-Pacific region, as well as all over our water planet. To find out the most up-to-date news and views, check out the website or follow us on our various social media @scubadivermag www.scubadivermag.com.au/news

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DIVERS STEP IN AFTER FLOOD DISASTER

pecialist dive tour operator Scuba Dive Adventures run several diving trips to South Africa annually, but this year the divers arrived to find total and utter destruction to Kwazulu-Natal, which had borne the brunt of a natural flood disaster. More than 41,000 locals had lost their homes, plus there was an increasing death toll of 400 plus. Motorways had been washed away, with shipping containers and vehicles strewn across the highways. Scuba Dive Adventures‘ Damian Groves said: “For us as divers, we could not only see the devastation to the land, but the trail of destruction as far as the eye could see, along the beautiful Umhlanga beach. The visibility was so bad due to the floods we were unable to dive at all for the first few days. “Not content with sitting around, our group were desperate to help the local community. We decided we would do a beach clean the likes you have never seen before – armed with several pick-up trucks and tractors, we headed down and began the mammoth task of clearing the debris. “Our goal was to get the plastics off the beach, stop the microplastics going into the sea and protect our oceans. “With our protective gloves on, we began the enormous task of rummaging through the jumbled piles of plastic bottles, brooms, mops, nappies, tyres and other debris, carrying the full bags to the ‘backie›, and onto the skip. “We finally conceded when we could put no more into the skip. There is still a long way to go, and this is just one beach, and with many other beaches in dire need of help. We’ve got such devastation with plastics in our oceans, that if we don’t look after them, we won’t have the beautiful diving and beaches to appreciate in future years. “The flood disaster will impact Kwazulu-Natal’s economy, which performs in sectors such as tourism, manufacturing and agriculture for many years to come.” He added: “A massive thank you to all of our Scuba Dive Adventure guests, who made this happen. We have also set up a Just Giving page - www.justgiving.com/ crowdfunding/kzn-floods - for anyone who would like to donate to the people of KZN, where thousands of people have lost their homes and possessions, and many are still without running water.” www.scubadiveadventures.co.uk

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PHILIPPINES AGGRESSOR TAKES TO THE SEAS

Aggressor Adventures is pleased to announce its newest liveaboard yacht, the Philippines Aggressor, which embarked on its maiden voyage on 9 April. While there are thousands of superb dive sites throughout the 7,640 islands, Philippines Aggressor’s guests will focus on the best-of-the-best, with scuba diving cruises to Tubbataha Atoll and Visayas/Cebu regions. These islands and their surrounding waters have long been a premier destination for scuba diving, and now Aggressor Adventures will provide divers access to these remote areas while also providing legendary Aggressor service. The beautiful new, 42-metre Philippines Aggressor yacht offers Tubbataha cruises departing from Puerto Princesa, Palawan exploring the Tubbataha Atoll. A seven-night cruise includes Tubbataha Reefs National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, protecting over 350 species of coral and almost 500 species of fish in an area of approximately 100,000 hectares at the centre of the Sulu Sea. Whales, dolphins, sharks, turtles and Napoleon wrasse are among the species found here. This healthy reef ecosystem supports legendary diving and encounters often include hammerhead sharks, manta rays, Moorish idols, Napoleon wrasse, parrotfish, eels and more. There are several Visayas cruise options departing from the Mactan/Cebu or Dauin/Dumaguete areas to experience some of the best diving in the region. The Visayas itinerary will be available for either seven or ten nights. The area provides opportunities for divers to see thresher sharks, huge schools of sardines, and whalesharks, while Dauin is a photographer’s delight with macro, black sands dives. Siquijor Island boasts endless visibility along soft corals walls. This signature 360-degree cruise includes a parade of exotic islands – Cebu, Cabilao, Balicasag, Sumilon, Pescador, Malapascua, Kalanggaman, Camotes, Pamilacan, and Panglao Islands. The Philippines Aggressor liveaboard pampers 24 guests with 15 staff in the same luxury and signature amenities that Aggressor Liveaboards has been offering around the world for the past 38 years. Itineraries include diving daily, onboard accommodations, gourmet meals and snacks, soft beverages, and local alcohol. On the main and upper decks, seven staterooms have panoramic windows. www.aggressor.com

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EMPEROR DIVERS ON THE MOVE IN MARSA

Emperor Divers has a new home in Marsa Alam. With the Marina Lodge still closed, Emperor has opened a new shop located in the brand-new Port Ghalib Marina City complex. And, as locations go, it is the best yet for Emperor, who are this year celebrating their 30th anniversary of diving in Egypt. Their new shop in Marina City is situated among all the retail, hotels and restaurants right on the Port Ghalib waterfront and is right next door to where the Emperor fleet is based. Emperor Divers Red Sea general manager Luke Atkinson said: “We have all the facilities you›d expect, from equipment rinse to luggage store, as well as a fully-stocked shop. “Our boats – Emperor Skye and the larger liveaboards – can be walked to in a couple of minutes or, if you prefer, by zodiac tender! So, whether you’re joining us for daily diving trips, for courses or on week-long liveaboard safaris, it’s a must visit. “We are still offering our complimentary collection service from all hotels within 20km of Port Ghalib so, wherever you choose to stay, there’s every reason to dive with us. “It’s a new location but the same convenience and the same great team.” www.emperor.com

MALAYSIAN TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS EASED AGAIN

From 1 May 2022, fully-vaccinated inbound travellers to Malaysia are now no longer required to undergo pre-departure and on-arrival COVID-19 tests, and this includes children aged 12 and below, as well as those who have been infected with COVID-19 within six to 60 days before departure to Malaysia. Travel insurance will also not be a prerequisite for foreigners entering the country. However, international travellers are required to complete the predeparture form (Travel for) via the ‘Traveller’ icon on the MySejahtera app. Inbound travellers who are not fully vaccinated against COVID-19 still need to undergo an RT-PCR test two days before departure as well as a professionally-administered RTK-Ag test within 24 hours upon arrival in Malaysia and observe a five-day quarantine (quarantine exemption is only for those aged 17 and below). The wearing of masks outdoors is optional but still mandatory indoors, including in shopping malls, offices, public transportation and e-hailing rides. Nevertheless, face coverings are still encouraged in crowded places, and people at higher risk from COVID-19. No more physical distancing is required, and people are now free to shake hands, but they are advised to practise good hand hygiene. Meanwhile, check-ins via the contact tracing app MySejahtera will no longer be required, but the MySJ Trace function should be activated for contact tracing. Regardless of the vaccination status, people will be allowed to enter the premises except for those who test positive for COVID-19 and have been issued a home surveillance order. The seven-day mandatory quarantine for positive cases remains, and the MySejahtera app is used for the COVID-19 test results submission and health assessment. However, those who test positive for COVID-19 may be released earlier from quarantine if their professionallyadministered RTK-Ag test on Day 4 is negative. For more information on the latest standard operating procedures (SOP) for travelling to Malaysia, please visit: www.malaysia.travel/travel-alert

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ACTIONS S H OTS Mabul Island, Sabah


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PARINEETI CHOPRA BECOMES PADI AMBASSADIVER

PADI has announced an exceptional PADI AmbassaDiver – Indian actress, singer and PADI Advanced Open Water Diver Parineeti Chopra. “A PADI AmbassaDiver is someone who is passionate about using their force for good to encourage others to protect our blue planet,” says Kristin Valette Wirth, Chief Brand and Membership Officer. “We could not have found a more respected and authentic partner as Ms. Chopra, a long-time ocean lover, to advance our shared mission of saving the ocean. She is unmatched as a shining example of how to protect what you love – and inspire others to do the same.” Chopra, who has always loved the ocean, experienced the magic beneath the surface in 2013 when she took her first breath underwater in Bali. As soon as she surfaced from that dive, she was hooked – and protecting the ocean became very personal for her, receiving her PADI Open Water Diver certification later that year in Palau. Since then, she has inspired others around the world, from her family and friends to fans in India – to try scuba diving so they can join her in seeking adventure and saving the ocean. “The first time I came up to the surface after diving, I was crying because it was such a life-changing experience,” says Ms. Chopra. “It is now something I can’t live without. I make sure I do a diving trip every three months despite my work schedule because it is my form of meditation. And it is the place I am immensely passionate about protecting.” “We are all equal underwater and all speak the same language. Over the years I have seen the changes that have taken place beneath the surface. During my time as a brand ambassador for Tourism Australia, I witnessed the bleaching and damage that has occurred to the Great Barrier Reef. I was so sad to see this and am now committed to being a diver with a purpose. I have also seen first-hand how marine reserves, like the ones in Sipadan, Malaysia and Palau, prove how valuable marine protected areas are. As a PADI diver, I want to make sure that our entire blue planet gets the protection it deserves.” continues Ms. Chopra. With over 67 million social media followers and having recently starred in the Netflix movie The Girl on the Train, Chopra joins an elite group of celebrity influencers determined to take personal action and create real change for healthier oceans. Spending nearly all her free time diving around the world, AmbassaDiver Chopra shares her love for the ocean with her fans, as diving is an important part of her life that allows her to return to nature and reset. She will work with PADI to encourage others to experience the beautiful world underwater as PADI divers and join her in helping to achieve balance between humanity and the ocean.

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VANUATU TO REOPEN TO INTERNATIONAL TRAVELLERS

The Vanuatu Tourism Office (VTO) is excited to announce that Vanuatu will open its borders to fully-vaccinated international travellers from 1 July, 2022 with no quarantine or arrival caps, with agents now able to book their clients on flights to Port Vila with the country’s national carrier, Air Vanuatu. This is fantastic news for the local tourism industry and future international travellers, says the CEO of the Vanuatu Tourism Office, Mrs. Adela Issachar Aru. “We’ve kept Vanuatu beautiful, and we’re thrilled to be welcoming travellers back to our shores come July,” says Mrs. Issachar Aru. “We’ll be using the next two months to help ready our tourism operators and are working closely with the Ministry of Health, the Department of Tourism and other relevant stakeholders to ensure our people and visitors will be safe when they do travel. We’re inviting Australians to Answer the Call of Vanuatu once again.” The Air Vanuatu Chief Executive Officer, Mr. Atu Finau, has reaffirmed the national airline’s commitment to provide the much vital connectivity between Vanuatu and its regional network. “It’s exciting to finally be able to welcome our customers back onboard again, after the temporary suspension of our international passenger flights in March 2020. We’ve released our international schedule to commence in July, and we are confident that we can increase flight frequencies and capacity as demand grows. The pent-up demand since 2020 provides us with the assurance that Vanuatu remains one of the top destinations to travel to as soon border restrictions are eased.” For more information on the reopening schedule, please visit www.vanuatu.travel/au/

SOCORRO VORTEX LIVEABOARD RUNS AGROUND

The luxurious liveaboard Socorro Vortex is apparently a total loss after running aground in the remote Revillagigedo Archipelago, but all passengers and crew were evacuated. According to reports, the vessel ran aground on Socorro Island on 9 May and the crew radioed for assistance. On arrival at the scene, the Mexican Navy found 14 passengers – a mix of Americans, Britons, Belgians, Irish and New Zealanders – and 11 crew members in a liferaft, some apparently with minor injuries. They were all taken to Isla Socorro Naval Sector for medical evaluation, and were then subsequently transferred to San Jose del Cabo in Baja California Sur.

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MALDIVES

BLUE FORCE FLEET ANNOUNCES SECOND MALDIVES LIVEABOARD

Blue Force Fleet is pleased and proud to announce the addition of their second liveaboard yacht in the Maldives, the Maldives Blue Force 3. The well-known Red Sea Blue Force 3 will make her last cruise in the Red Sea on 19 November 2022. On 1 December she will sail to the Maldives, where she will join the Blue Force Fleet schedule from 25 March 2023, under the trade name Maldives Blue Force 3. After than 26 years of experience operating in the Maldives, Blue Force Fleet offers the Maldives Blue Force One and the Maldives Blue Force 3, two of the best liveaboard vessels in the Maldives, designed for divers and nondivers, guaranteeing comfort and a ‘premium’ experience. www.blueforcefleet.com

INDONESIA IS READY FOR YOU!

THE DIVER’S CHOICE FOR 30 YEARS AWARD WINNING SERVICE SINCE 1992

Visa on arrival is now available for travel to Indonesia – it costs IDR 500,000 (approximately US$38), valid for 30 days, renewable for one month for the following nationalities: Australia, Argentina, Belgium, Brazil, Brunei, Cambodia, Canada, China, Denmark, France, Finland, Germany, Hungary, India, Italy, Japan, Laos, Malaysia, Mexico, Myanmar, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Philippines, Poland, Qatar, Seychelles, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Spain, South Africa, Sweden, Switzerland, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, Tunisia, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States of America, and Vietnam. Situated in Raja Ampat, Indonesia, Meridian Adventure Dive is a PADI 5 Star Resort and winner of the PADI Green Star award. Scuba divers enjoy our professional services that have become synonymous with the PADI and Meridian Adventure names. www.raja.meridianadventuredive.com

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26/06/2021 07:29

The Gold Coast’s newest attraction Wonder Reef has been officially opened with an underwater ribbon cutting by Mayor Tom Tate and Deputy Premier Steven Miles. The world-class $5 million dive attraction for experienced divers is an innovative fusion of art, science and engineering design and has attracted hundreds of different marine life species in just a few short months. Mayor Tom Tate said the experience was out of this world and he can see why this project has divers from all corners of the globe excited. “It is just an amazing experience – the marine life is as good as what you’ll see at any other dive site. The coral is thriving, and the sculptures are just mesmerising,” Mayor Tate said. “Renewing our tourism products and attractions is vital if we want to keep our title as Australia’s tourism capital – and believe me this is something special.” The project is a joint initiative between City of Gold Coast and the Queensland Government. Regular dive tours will be operated by Gold Coast Dive Adventures and Queensland Scuba Diving and experienced divers with their own boat and dive equipment are able to book a public mooring. www.wonderreef.com.au

ROOTS RED SEA TAKES TOP TRIPADVISOR AWARD

There is a remote spot on the coast of the Egyptian Eastern Desert that has been steadily developing an enviable reputation among the world’s diving community, so it’s absolutely no surprise that Roots Red Sea has just received TripAdvisor‘s top award, Travellers Choice. This is the tenth year running that Roots Red Sea has won awards from TripAdvisor! With a passing glance, many divers have dismissed a visit to this gem, its rustic appearance and remote location seemingly enough to deter further consideration, however, those that take a closer look have been rewarded with simply a totally unique experience with awesome diving, an unbelievable welcome and life-long memories. Roots Red Sea’s Steve Rattle said: “Winning an award once could be luck, every year for ten years, there has to be a reason – come and see what makes us different.” www.rootsredsea.com

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SIMON LORENZ | INSIDER DIVERS


Ask DAN

DAN medical specialists and researchers answer your dive medicine questions

TROUBLE BREATHING AFTER CLEARING MASK Q: During dive training in the pool, I couldn’t breathe after clearing my mask with my regulator in my mouth. After surfacing, I took six to eight wheezing breaths and then could breathe normally again. It’s possible I inhaled water during the exercise, but my instructor and I could not recall when or how that would have happened. Someone at the training centre suggested that something might be wrong with my epiglottis. Is there a way to inspect the epiglottis to ensure it is functioning properly? What causes it to relax and open back up? A: It is not uncommon for new divers to have some anxiety when fully removing their mask underwater. When you expose your nose to the water, it’s natural to feel uncomfortable if water enters the nasopharynx. Our bodies are trained not to take a breath while underwater, but it is possible if you can relax and focus on breathing through your regulator. If water entered the larynx, the epiglottis’ natural response would be to close the airways to prevent aspiration. The larynx would reflexively trigger coughing to expel the fluid, or you would try to remove the fluid through exhalation. Even a small amount of fluid can induce laryngospasm, which will stimulate this powerful reflex. This passage from Marieb and Hoehn’s Human Anatomy and Physiology is a good overview of how the epiglottis works: ‘When only air is flowing into the larynx, the inlet to

the larynx is wide open and the free edge of the epiglottis projects upward. During swallowing, the larynx is pulled superiorly and the epiglottis tips to cover the laryngeal inlet. Because this action keeps food out of the lower respiratory passages, the epiglottis has been called the guardian of the airways. Anything other than air entering the larynx initiates the cough reflex to expel the substance’. Another possibility is that you had an anxiety-induced laryngospasm, which can be triggered by discomfort, panic, or high anxiety. Some physicians think this spasm is part of the body’s natural defence against accidental drowning or suffocation and may be part of the body’s response to fluid in the larynx. Your breathing problem may be an issue with your comfort level and experience, but it’s possible there are other complications we cannot identify based on the information you provided. Discuss these concerns with your physician and request a fitness-to-dive evaluation to ensure that you have no physical contraindications to dive activity. Your physician may refer you to an ENT for further investigation, if needed. If your physician clears you for diving, we recommend that you complete additional, rigorous pool time to work on skills with your instructor before proceeding any further in your training.

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Monthly round-up of news from our SSI dive centres and professionals www.divessi.com

KEEP DIVING AND STAY CONNECTED WITH THE MYSSI DIVING APP 3.0

S

SI is proud to announce the release of our new APP 3.0. Gone are the days of showing up at the dive boat without your logbook, training materials and certification card. Now, it is all safely stored in your MySSI app. With this impressive free diving app, you can access everything you need to go diving and stay connected to diving at all times. Whether you run an SSI Training Centre, are a dive pro, or just love diving, the MySSI App has all you need to boost your business, support your students, and record your diving adventures. These features are just the start of what you will discover in the essential, new MySSI diving app: • Learn easily on the move. SSI courses are included in the MySSI app and available whenever and wherever you want to learn. • Record every dive detail with MySSI’s advanced logbook features. • Connect with dive buddies worldwide. • Immerse yourself in diving even on land, with the latest industry and SSI blog news. • Ready to level up? Check out SSI pathway posters to plan your next course and become the best diver you can be.

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Discover MySSI’s innovative new diving app features. 1. Capture your best Scuba, Freediving and Extended Range dives with ease. MySSI will help you remember your dives for years to come, thanks to its host of logbook features that record all the dive details you could wish for. You can record your dive site’s exact GPS co-ordinates, quickly log your dives by scanning a dive site’s QR code, create a digital buddy list, add the wildlife you encountered, and so much more. Now, the MySSI diving app has enhanced logbook functions for Scuba, Extended Range and Freediving, including new graphics and icons if dives are imported through selected dive computers. All of which helps you customize your dive details with the type of diving you have done and capture your best underwater adventures. 2. Record the epic wildlife you encountered with MyDiveGuide. Few things are more frustrating than running out of room on your dive log page when you scribble down all the marine life you saw. With MySSI’s new wildlife feature, you can say goodbye to writing in the margins and poring over old marine life ID books. The MySSI digital logbook wildlife feature makes it quick and easy to record all of the wildlife you encountered during each dive.

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Simply browse and select the marine life you saw from MyDiveGuide’s extensive wildlife list. The MyDiveGuide wildlife directory contains everything from bucket list ocean giants right through to those prized critters you’ve spent years trying to find. Get the details down fast in your surface intervals and start planning your next wildlife dives now. 3. Get notified of events in your local dive community. Cannot get enough of diving? Neither can we! Up your dive time and leave your ‘fear of missing out’ behind with MySSI. Thanks to MySSI, it is now even easier to stay connected and get involved in your local dive community. On the new app homepage, you will find all events and the event calendar for your local SSI Training Centre. You can browse local dive trips, plan your next SSI dive course, and join local dive events from your smartphone. It is the best way to meet new dive buddies in your area, explore local dive sites you didn’t know existed, and extend your dive season. n So, what are you waiting for? Download the App, create your profile, and explore this essential diving app today.

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A

huge array of vessels can be found in the waters that surround Australia, but this article focuses on one particular group - the decommissioned ex-HMAS warships. Each mainland state has at least one of these intentionally sunk navy vessels, with WA and Queensland boosting two each. The first to be prepared and sunk for life as an artificial reef was the HMAS Swann in WA back in 1997. The most-recent addition is the HMAS Tobruk, which was scuttled off the coast of Bundaberg, Queensland, in 2018. There are a variety of ship types, including Guided Missile Destroyers, Destroyer Escorts, Frigates and a Heavy Landing Ship. The one thing they all have in common is that they have been well prepared and carefully considered artificial reefs. They have soon become outstanding dive sites, with significant amounts of marine life now calling these impressive wrecks home.

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Australia is not usually a dive destination that is associated with wreck diving. More famous for the Great Barrier Reef, Ningaloo Reef, great white sharks and seadragons, it might come as a surprise to some that this vast country’s 34,000km of coastline is also home to a staggering amount of rusting metal Photographs by HMAS Tobruk - Tracy Olive, Commonwealth of Australia HMAS Brisbane - Kerrie Burow, Adrian Stacey HMAS Adelaide - Nicolas & Lena Remy HMAS Canberra - Keren Green, Corry Allan @ Dive Gear Australia HMAS Hobart - Chelsea Haebich HMAS Perth - Andrew Halsall Photography, Clay Varley Photography, Ben Bunney HMAS Swan - Amanda Blanksby

HMAS Tobruk was one of two Battle Class destroyers built for the RAN. Her sister ship was HMAS Anzac (II). During her ten years in commission, Tobruk made a significant contribution to maritime security in Australian waters and as part of the Far East Strategic Reserve.

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The Tobruk lies on its side

The Tobruk before her sinking

The wreck is encrusted with marine growth

HMAS Tobruk DEBORAH DICKSON-SMITH

The HMAS Tobruk is one of Australia’s largest wrecks, 127 metres of nooks, crannies and naval history scuttled off the coast of Bundaberg and Hervey Bay in 2018. During her distinguished 34-year long career, HMAS Tobruk provided heavy-lift capabilities to transport equipment and personnel to and from Australian and foreign shores. With two helicopter decks, a tank deck, a vehicle deck and a roll on/roll off function, she was an imperative part of the Royal Australian Navy fleet, able to transport up to 18 tanks and provide accommodation for up to 520 troops. The ship filled her passport with countless international ports, providing humanitarian aid to Pacific nations including Tonga, Samoa and Vanuatu, following the devastation caused by Tropical Cyclone Isaac in 1982, and Vanuatu again in the wake of Tropical Cyclone Pam in 2015. She also participated in Samoa and Tonga in response to a devastating tsunami in 2008. The ship was used between 1994 and 2000 for peacekeeping missions to Bougainville, and in 1999 transporting cargo and troops to East Timor, and in June 2000, provided support during the evacuation of Australians from the Solomon Islands after the overthrow of the central Government. A cease-fire agreement was made on board HMAS Tobruk between the warring factions. She was decommissioned on 31 July 2015 and towed

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from Sydney to the port of Bundaberg in December 2016 for preparations for scuttling in Wide Bay in June 2018. The HMAS Tobruk is seriously huge, meaning it occupies a colossal position on the ocean floor. Divers can swim over 100 metres in one direction inside the ship – no tumble turns required. All areas of the ship, including the troop areas, crew quarters, the tank deck and other sections can be explored. If penetrating the ship makes you feel claustrophobic, there’s more than enough to see outside the wreck. A huge variety of marine life – including octopi, sharks, marble rays and accompanying king fish, manta rays, grouper, and large schools of Spanish mackerel, jacks, batfish and snapper – call Tobruk home. The occasional hammerhead has also been known to make a visit and the soft coral growth is stunning. As the Fraser Coast and Bundaberg are popular breeding grounds for turtles, expect to see plenty while exploring the wreck and between May and November, including both hawksbill and loggerhead. Also listen out for migrating humpback whales. Both Bundaberg and Hervey Bay are an easy three- to four-hour drive north of Brisbane. Both towns also have airports if you are coming from interstate. You can book a dive on HMAS Tobruk through one of the four experienced dive operators who hold permits to access the site who each offer a standard package of two dives over a total trip time of five to six hours. Hervey Bay Dive Centre and Tobruk Dive Centre Hervey Bay operate out of Hervey Bay, and Bundaberg Aqua Scuba run from Bundaberg.

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HMAS Brisbane ADRIAN STACEY

The HMAS Brisbane was a Perth-class guided-missile destroyer 133 metres long with a displacement of 3,370 tons. Designed in the USA and built in Bay City, Michigan, in 1965, the Brisbane was launched in 1966 and commissioned into the Royal Australian Navy in 1967. The ship was deployed twice to the Vietnam War and once to the Gulf War. The vessel was also involved in the post-Cyclone Tracy disaster relief operation. It was decommissioned in 2001, and the bridge and one of the gun turrets were removed and sent to the Australian War Memorial in Canberra. Then, in 2005 the Brisbane was sunk 3km off the Sunshine Coast. The ship was filled with 250 tons of concrete and scuttled using 38 charges. The former warship now sits upright in 27m of water, with the smokestacks a mere 3m beneath the surface. The wreck has been well prepared for life underwater, with large holes cut strategically along the hull to give easy access. These holes have the benefit of allowing in more light which is excellent for photographers. In its 17 years underwater, the ex-HMAS Brisbane has become a remarkable artificial reef attracting a staggering marine life. An array of critters can be found on the wreck, including nudibranchs, pipefish, octopi, small crab and shrimps, to name but a few. Numerous rays and even the occasional grey nurse shark visit this rusting hulk. There is an impressive amount of soft and hard coral growth on both the wreck’s exterior and interior. Large schools of silver batfish are usually found congregating around the smokestacks and communications tower, while huge schools of grunts can often be found just off the wreck being harried by Heading down inside the Brisbane

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Impressive soft coral growth Baitfish surround the wreck

jewfish, snapper, wahoo and trevallies. However, the most-impressive residents of the HMAS Brisbane are the millions of glassfish, cave sweeper and baitfish that inhabit this immense wreck. Occasionally a blanket of baitfish seems to engulf the whole exterior of the wreck, but usually, these shiny little fish stick to the interior, crammed in almost every room, sometimes so densely that it is almost disorientating. It is also important to watch where you put your hands as scorpionfish and lionfish are prolific The Brisbane is also a great wreck to explore with plenty of points of interest, including large gun turrets at the bow and stern, a coral-encrusted anchor chain, missile control room, engine room and mess, plus plenty of smaller rooms and gangways. One of my favourite routes is to enter the wreck by descending through one of the smokestacks into the engine room. Then to work my way back up through the different level’s corridors and rooms. Finishing back at the smokestack and communications array for a safety stop among the large schools of fish that often congregate here. The HMAS-Brisbane is located in Queensland, just off the Sunshine Coast at Mooloolaba. This is about a one-hour drive north of Brisbane airport, along the Bruce Highway. The wreck can be dived all year round, but the cooler winter months usually bring the best visibility. Two dive centres have permits to visit this spectacular wreck, Scuba World and Sunreef. Both run daily trips and have permanent moorings on the vessel.

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HMAS Adelaide

Diver inside the Adelaide

NICOLAS REMY

The HMAS Adelaide is a frigate from the Australian Navy, 138.1 metres long and 14.3 metres wide, with a displacement of 4,100 tons, and a range of 8,334km. This warship was commissioned on 15 November 1980, decommissioned on 19 January 2008, and scuttled on 13 April 2011. It served the Australian Navy for a 27-year-long career, which saw it deployed three times in the Middle East (1990, 2001-2002, and 2004-2005), and notably took it to Fiji during the Coups d’Etats (1987) and to Indonesia when riots escalated (1998), in case Australian citizens would require evacuation. After being donated to the NSW government for the purpose of creating a diving wreck, the warship was prepared for scuttling, with large holes cut in multiple spots along the wreck, to ensure that a diver entering the wreck would be able to get out. While it was originally sunk to a depth of 30m, the Adelaide has kept sinking through the ocean floor over time and reaches now 38m at its deepest. However, the wreck features many areas of interest at shallower depths. For example, the bridge can be visited at 22m, where the control panels are very recognizable, as well as a port bottle, encased in resin behind the captain’s chair, which they drank on the eve of the sinking of the ship. The conning towers are also an interesting feature as they attract the most fish life, depending on the time of year, schools of kingfish, yellow-tailed yakka, bullseyes, bream, morwong and old wives can be seen around. The internals of the wreck are always an interesting place to explore for the more-advanced divers with all the elevator shafts, corridors, the galley and bridge and other places

flooded with marine growth and fish life giving a good juxtaposition between man-made and ocean life. It is worth noting that penetrating the wreck deeper than 30 metres is forbidden by Crown Lands (managing the reserve) due to safety concerns over the wreck’s deterioration over time. However, there is still a lot to see in and around this large wreck. The HMAS Adelaide wreck is located 1.8km east of Avoca Beach in the Central Coast of New South Wales. The nearest boat ramp being in Terrigal. I dived the Adelaide with Dive Spear & Sports, who offer a convenient boat launch in Bayview Anchorage, only a 45-minute drive from the centre of Sydney. Dive Imports Australia also regularly dive the Ex HMAS Adelaide. They are based in Erina which is about a 10 minute drive from Terrigal Jetty.

While it was originally sunk to a depth of 30m, the Adelaide has kept sinking through the ocean floor over time and reaches now 38m at its deepest The Adelaide superstructure

Strong surges may be encountered on this wreck as the vessel was sunk side on to the prevailing waves. Once inside the wreck visibility will be good, irrespective of how it is outside the ship. This dive is primarily designed for advanced open water divers.

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HMAS Canberra DAVE BAXTER

The ex-HMAS Canberra FFG-02 was scuttled at 2 pm on Sunday, 4 October 2009. It is magnificent as a wreck. It was the first artificial reef specially designed for scuba diving in Victoria, providing opportunities for divers from open water to advanced technical levels to enjoy this site. The wreck is located offshore from Ocean Grove, within Bass Strait in Victoria. It is approximately 25 minutes by boat from Queenscliff Harbour (on the Bellarine Peninsula) or Portsea (on the Mornington Peninsula). She is 138 metres long, 14.3 metres beam, and 4,100 ton displacement. She sits upright on the ocean floor with the radar tower reaching up to 10m from the surface. The sandy bottom is at 30m. The site offers divers the opportunity to explore a large portion of the HMAS Canberra, including flight decks, bridge, engine rooms, galley and accommodation quarters. There is a large array of fish life residing around the wreck. This includes perch, old wives, stingrays, morwongs and the ever-popular nudibranchs.

Baitfish shoal above the wreck

Sealions and rays have been known to frequent the wreck in the cooler months. Visibility ranges from 10-30 metres most days with a mild current during the tide changes. Launched on 1 December 1978, the HMAS Canberra FFG-02 was built by Todd Pacific Shipyards Corporation in Seattle, Washington, USA. The second of six similar FFG-7 Class Guided Missile Frigates, she was commissioned on 21 March 1981. The HMAS Canberra’s role was to operate with other maritime forces to help keep the world’s sea lanes open and free by providing protection for military and merchant convoys. To achieve this, she was specifically designed to simultaneously counter the threats posed by submarines, air, surface and subsurface launched missiles and enemy warships. Accordingly, the ship was fitted with long range radar, sonar and electronic surveillance sensors which were co-ordinated by high-speed computers to provide data for the ship’s weapon systems. Each dive shop or charter has their own rules and requirements to be able to dive the wreck. Check with the shop to see the required equipment and certification levels.

Penetration is possible

The HMAS Canberra’s role was to operate with other maritime forces to help keep the world’s sea lanes open and free Inside rhe bridge area

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Marine growth on the wreck

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HMAS Hobart CHELSEA HAEBICH

Diver checking out the growth The wreck is heavily encrusted

Expect to encounter plenty of marine life

Over the years it has become covered in a vast array of sessile marine life due to the strong tidal waters WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU

Sitting off the coast of the Fluerieu Peninsula, in South Australia, is the wreck of the HMAS Hobart, a Perth-class Guided Missile Destroyer. Prepared and sunk in 2002 for the purpose of scuba diving, this wreck is coming up to its 20th anniversary and is a favourite wreck dive of the Adelaide diving community. At 134 metres long, this 4,500-ton ship lies in 30m of temperate water and reaches up from the seafloor to just 8m below the surface – a colossal dive site that really needs to be taken in over a few dives at least. Now encrusted in abundant marine life, ‘the Hobart’ now has a second life as an artificial reef and is the crown jewel of the Rapid Head Sanctuary Zone located within the Encounter Marine Park. Built in the US and commissioned by the Royal Australian Navy in 1965, it was soon deployed to fight in the Vietnam War in 1967. During this time, it was involved in three active duties to Vietnam. On its second deployment in 1968 the ship came under fire killing two of its crew and injuring many more. On investigation into the attack that occurred during the night it was confirmed that the missiles that inflicted the damage and took lives were of United States Air Force origin. After its deployments in the Vietnam War, the HMAS Hobart continued to have an active service life and was called upon to assist the Royal Australian Navy with its disaster relief efforts after Cyclone Tracy destroyed Darwin in 1974. The Hobart was decommissioned in May 2000 and gifted to the South Australian Government and prepared for scuttling. On the 5 November 2002 it was sunk and fast became a popular dive site. It was well prepared for divers – hazards and obstacles have been removed and large holes have been cut into the length and depth of the hull opening up the site without detracting from it. Gun turrets have been left in place, the engine room is accessible and you can visit places such as the bridge area, mess decks and captain’s quarters. Over the years it has become covered in a vast array of sessile marine life due to the strong tidal waters. Anemones, sponges, algae and kelp provide so much life and colour to this wreck. Over 50 species of fish have been recorded. Diving this site requires a little bit of planning. Permits – which are available online - are required and it is a boat dive. It’s best dived on a ‘dodge tide’ as the currents are a hazard on this site. Dive operators such as Underwater Sports Diving Centre are very experienced with what is required to dive this site comfortably and safely. They schedule the dives to make the most of the slack part of the dodge tide and run it to a tight schedule – it’s best to check their schedule to see when they are planning their next trips. Once you have secured your spot on the boat all you have to do is drive yourself and your gear to the Wirrina Marina on the Fleurieu Peninsula. This is where the boats launch from and from there it’s a short, fast boat ride to the site – which is clearly marked with surface buoys. It is a full day to do two dives on this site so packing some snacks is a must as well as hydration. I am sure you will come away feeling two dives wasn’t nearly enough. I never feel I’ve dived it enough! It’s an impressive site with a fascinating history and well worth the effort.

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HMAS Perth GARRY WELLSTEAD

The HMAS Perth is a Guided Missile Destroyer, which was built by the Defoe Shipbuilding Co. in the USA, and launched on 26 September 1963. It is 133.2 metres long, 14.3 metres wide, and weighs in at 4,720 tonnes. It was equipped with two five-inch rapid-fire guns, standard anti-air missile system, two Vulcan Phlanx close-in weapon systems, four 50 calibre machine guns, and two sets of triple mounted anti-submarine torpedo tubes. Together with her sister ships Brisbane and Hobart, HMAS Perth was regarded as among the best-balanced fleet units in service at the time. Her main task was air defence of the fleet along with significant anti-submarine and surface gunnery capabilities. HMAS Perth experienced extensive naval service during her long commission, including three tours of duty to South Vietnam in the 1960s and 70s, and participating in major allied exercises and numerous local and foreign deployments. After 34 years of active service, and steaming over 1,000,000 nautical miles, HMAS Perth was decommissioned on 15 October 1999. The former HMAS Perth was subsequently scuttled as a dive wreck off Albany on the south coast of Western Australia on 24 November 2001. Resting vertically in 35m of water on the southern side of King George Sound (which has an extremely rich maritime history) and 500 metres south west of Seal Island with her bow pointed to the east out to sea, the ship is marked by a navigational Special Mark and mooring buoys to the south side of the wreck. With the radar mount platform at 5m making an ideal descent check point and ascent safety stop point, depths range from 32m on the stern through to 23m on the bow, with the after gun deck at 27m, forward gun deck at 26m and the bridge at 21m. Throughout the ship there are many large diver access holes that were cut during preparation for the ship’s scuttling. These give divers clear easy entry and exit to the various decks, mess, galley, heads and companionways within the ship.

Photographing the gun turret The interesting superstructure

Atmospheric interior

The Perth as she was scuttled

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Sponge and coral growth on the wreck

HMAS Perth experienced extensive naval service during her long commission, including three tours of duty to South Vietnam in the 1960s and 70s, and participating in major allied exercises The wreck is smothered in growth

Wobbegong

Post-scuttling, the ship has had an amazing amount of marine growth and fish life make home on it. Sponges, southern black corals, ascidians, samson fish, blue grouper, western blue devils, queen snapper, and wobbegongs - the latter being somewhat daunting when found in a narrow companionway while swimming through the wreck! In her new role the former HMAS Perth has seen thousands of divers visit her since her scuttling over 20 years, many of which have been ex-naval personal who served on her, or divers who had close relatives serve on her. Southcoast Diving Supplies has a full range of diving services and offer guided and unguided dive tours of the wreck. Best diving usually from late-March through to early June.

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HMAS Swan

The bridge of the Swan

AMANDA BLANKSBY

HMAS Swan was named after the Swan River in Perth, Western Australia. There had been two other navy ships to carry the name Swan before her. She is 113 metres long, 12.5 metres wide, around 21 metres high, with a displacement of 2,100 tons. She was a River-class destroyer escort, built at the Williamstown Dockyard in Melbourne and came into service as part of the Royal Australian Navy (RAN) fleet in 1970. She had an illustrious career, with numerous deployments to South East Asia, based initially at Garden Island in Sydney. From the mid-80s onwards she was based out of HMAS Stirling at Garden Island, Western Australia. She was paid off in 1996, having travelled 775,870 nautical miles during 56,982 hours spent at sea. The Australian government gifted the ship to the Western Australian government, and she became the first deliberately prepared dive wreck in the Southern Hemisphere. She was scuttled in December 1997 in 30m of water and commenced the creation of an artificial reef and dive site. You realise how important these artificial reefs are, when surrounding the wreck is just sand and how they create a safe haven for marine life. On a clear visibility day the vessel’s bow is a towering structure to look at and swim round. There is surprisingly not that much growth on the sides of the vessel, but more so on the deck structure, including telesto and other soft corals, bryozoans and sponges. It is reported that the humpback whales will visit the wreck on their migration south and have a good scratch on its side though! There are a number of diver access holes providing opportunities to explore the engine and boiler rooms, canteen and naval stores, officer’s accommodation, toilets and showers, to name a few. Fish congregate inside the wreck including bulleyes, western talma, blue devils and sweeps. Grey nurse sharks have also been spotted down at the depths of the stern, along with dewfish. As you start to ascend other parts of the vessel become visible including the bridge and the crow’s nest. This is a very impressive structure and is ideally located at around the 6-10m mark for the allimportant safety stop. Frequently batfish hang around this area, and can be quite inquisitive. Baitfish will swirl around, sometimes being chased by larger kingfish and samson fish. There are plenty of small things to be spotted including blennies hiding in holes, various nudibranchs,

HMAS Swan was laid down at Cockatoo Island Dockyard, Sydney, NSW on 22 January 1915. She was launched by Lady Creswell on 11 December 1915 and was completed on 3 July 1916. Nudibranch

crustaceans, and anemones. The sunken vessel is located in the western side of Geographe Bay, around 2.4km away from Meelup Beach, Dunsborough. This site was selected, given the protection provided by Cape Naturalist, ease of access, diver safety and environmental considerations. You can not access the site from the shore, but via a commercial or private boat. There are two commercial moorings and two public moorings, attached to the wreck. Swan Dive are the team to dive the wreck with. n

The top of the superstructure

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SPOTLIGHT ON: THE PHILIPPINES FIVE REASONS TO DIVE CEBU AND BOHOL

N

ow that the Philippines are open, quarantine and test-free, it’s a good time to consider a dive trip to the Visayas. Cebu and Bohol are very easy to get to and make for a great combo! Here are five reasons to dive Cebu and Bohol:

1

Sardine Run, Moalboal

Moalboal is located on the south-west coast of Cebu, and is the closest jump-off point for Pescador Island. The island’s surrounding waters are very deep, reaching a depth of more than 600 metres, and this protected marine sanctuary is famous for its abundance of sardines, which surround divers in the thousands. It’s amazing to see this many fish all at once in one place and it also attracts whale sharks, with the number of sightings rising considerably over the past year or so.

2

Mandarin Fish, Moalboal

Several Moalboal dive resorts, including Magic Island Resort, boast a resident population of mandarin fish, which make an appearance each night for an elaborate courtship dance. Difficult to photograph as they move so quickly, mandarin fish are up there with the prettiest fish in the world, a prized addition to any underwater photographer’s portfolio, for those lucky enough to capture them.

3

Thresher sharks, Malapascua

Known for their unique tail and interesting hunting habits, threshers are frequent visitors to Malapascua Island, at the northern tip of Cebu. Malapascua’s Monad Shoal dive site is one of the best-known sites for consistent sightings and they are more active in the early morning, when they come to a coastal seamount to be cleaned by two species of cleaner wrasses. This is a cleaning station, and here Thresher sharks display a similar behaviour to Manta rays, if you’ve ever seen those graceful creatures visiting one of their own cleaning stations.

4

Whale sharks, Bohol and Cebu

The Philippines has one of the largest populations of whale sharks in the world, and they are frequently seen while diving Cebu and Bohol. If you want a guaranteed encounter, book a day trip to Oslob at the southern tip of Cebu, where these gentle giants have been aggregating for hundreds of years, opportunistically following the fishing vessels for a feed of discarded bycatch. For a guaranteed encounter in Bohol, Magic Oceans Resort in Anda recently discovered a nearby aggregation, only 1 hour away from the resort, and offer half day trips for a snorkel or dive.

5

Pygmy seahorses, Anda, Bohol

One of the most famous critters found in Anda is the Bargibanti Pygmy Seahorse. They can be spotted at several dive sites including Wonderwall, Lumayag Point, Bacong West and Pygmy House where they are common. These charming critters are one of the tiniest seahorses in the world, reaching a maximum length of up to 2.7cm when they are in the adult stage of life. n For the best recommendations for resorts and liveaboards in the Philippines, according to your specific requirements and wish list, contact the team of experts at Diveplanit Travel on 1300 607 913 or email us at enquire@diveplanit.com For generous group rates for dive clubs, contact Groups Manager Jess: jess@diveplanit.com.

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DIVE THE PHILIPPINES WITH MAGIC RESORTS

From macro wonders such as pygmy seahorses and mandarin fish, to pelagic action including the famous Sardine Run and frequent whale shark encounters, Magic Island Resort and Magic Oceans Resort offer a wide range of incredible diving experiences. Ask us about our Escape Winter & Beyond Special! For more information about diving the Philippines, contact the team of experts at Diveplanit Travel. diveplanit.com phone: 1800 607 913 email: enquire@diveplanit.com


M

aybe I should have started a bit lower down the food chain, after all with over 7,000 islands and located in the northern part of the Coral Triangle, the Philippines has much to offer the travelling diver. But when a long-time diving buddy told me that he was looking for experienced, sympatico divers to fill two back-to-back trips to Tubbataha on a special charter of the Philippine Siren, it just seemed too good to miss! I had heard many stories about the intense biodiversity of Tubbataha’s reefs, which are generally renowned for both what you will see together with what you might see and was sorely tempted. But it was a big decision as they are not cheap trips and with the whole boat chartered, my friend was truly on the hook and significant deposits were needed to secure a place, with final payments required months in advance of the departures. But the lure of those remote reefs in the Sulu Sea was too much to resist and I bit the bullet, becoming a fully paid-up participant by the end of 2019 - then Covid hit and for a while, I was convinced that I would lose the lot! Finally, in early 2022, we got the news that the Philippines was opening, and the trips were on – so in April I was on my way to Manila, having navigated the often baffling and expensive requirements to enter the country and then get back to Australia, but it was all worth it to be finally travelling again after two awful years and on my way to such an iconic location. Read on to see if it was worth the wait…

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Tubbataha

Scuba Diver Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock finally makes it to the Philippines after a Covidinduced delay, but his liveaboard adventure to Tubbataha is worth the wait Photographs by Don Silcock

Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park lies in a unique position in the centre of the Sulu Sea, and includes the Tubbataha and Jessie Beazley Reefs. It protects an area of almost 100,000 hectares of high quality marine habitats.

I had heard many stories about the intense biodiversity of Tubbataha’s reefs, which are generally renowned for both what you will see together with what you might see and was sorely tempted

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Colourful reefs await in Tubbataha

Tubbataha’s dive season is schedule just three months long, running from mid-March until midJune. At this time of year diving conditions is usually optimum, with clear skies, calm seas, and visibility between 30 and 45 metres.

Can you spell that again?

Pronounced ‘Toobahtaaha’… the name means ‘long reef exposed at low tide’ in Sinama – the language of the nomadic Sama-Bajau sea gypsies of the southern Philippines, who are believed to have first discovered the area. Physically the TRNP (Tubbataha Reefs National Park) consists of two atolls and one coral reef that are located in the middle of the Sulu Sea - effectively the core of the Philippine archipelago. And those ‘exposed reefs’ are the highest tips of the many extinct underwater volcanoes and mountains that form the Cagayan Ridge, which rises up from the 3,000m depths of the Sulu Basin. The two atolls are (rather prosaically) named the north and south atolls, while the reef is named after a longforgotten English mariner named Jessie Beazley. So, what is so special About Tubbataha? There are a few things that are really special about Tubbataha, which combined together create something that verges on the unique! Let’s start with the Sulu Sea, the 260,000 km² body of water that is bounded on three sides by the Philippine archipelago and, in the south by the province of Sabah in Malaysian Borneo, which marine biologists classify as a Large Marine Ecosystem (LME). Basically, the area is extremely rich in marine biodiversity with some 600 species of fish, 360 species of corals, 11 species of sharks and rays and 13 species of dolphins and whales found there. All that concentrated biodiversity is nurtured and

sustained by the fertile currents of the Pacific Ocean from the east, together with the rich deep-water upwellings produced as those currents flow through the Sulu Sea. Secondly, Tubbataha is some 150km from the nearest landfall on the large, narrow island of Palawan and, up to the 1980s, well beyond the range of traditional fishing boats, plus with no fresh-water available, habitation was impossible. So, the isolated atolls evolved into almost a marine version of the Garden of Eden with almost only natural predation occurring. Then the early 1980s saw the first motorized fishing boats arrive… Driven from the more-accessible fishing grounds in the Sulu Sea by over-fishing and the dramatic depletion of fish stocks, the rich bounty of Tubbataha’s atolls made the long and perilous journey worth the risk - but to maximise their returns those boats also introduced cyanide and Marine growth is pristine

There are a few things that are really special about Tubbataha, which combined together create something that verges on the unique! 38

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dynamite fishing and by the mid 1980s, that Garden of Eden was no longer what nature had made it. Good governance was rarely associated with the Philippines in the 1980s, but through the efforts of a few key, highly motivated individuals, the government was stirred into action and in 1988, then President Corazon Aquino designated Tubbataha a national marine park - the first in the country and, five years later, UNESCO inscribed it as a World Heritage Site. Nature is an incredibly powerful thing when we humans let it do its job and by 2015, scientific studies of those badly decimated reefs on the north and south atolls, plus Jessie Beazley reef, had been restored to a near-pristine and truly natural state! So effective has been the management of the TRNP it is often referred to as a role-model for similar initiatives elsewhere and will be the subject of the second of this twopart series on Tubbataha.

The reefs are home to a great diversity of marine life. Whales, dolphins, sharks, turtles and Napoleon wrasse are amongst the key species found here. The reef ecosystems support over 360 species of coral and almost 700 species of fish.

Diving Tubbataha

If you like tropical reef diving – and who doesn’t - imagine if you will rolling backwards into blue water that is so clear, the visibility seems to stretch out to infinity. Then arrayed below you on the upper reef margin are vast rolling dunes of staghorn coral with schools of resident anthias swimming up into the light and then darting back down for protection as an endangered green turtle forages for food among the branches. Then head down to about 15m, where the margin ends and the reef slope begins its descent into the depths of the Sulu Sea. Arranged to perfection along the slope are rows of huge gorgonian fans that stretch out into the current and feed on the passing nutrients – each one a mini ecosystem of its own, with permanent residents like sea stars, brittle stars, ghost gobies, pygmy seahorses and the pygmy’s nemesis, the long-nosed hawkfish. Divers beneath the boat

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Sponges and soft corals adorn the reef


Shoal of sweetlips

Pufferfish getting a clean

Vast gorgonian seafan

If you like tropical reef diving – and who doesn’t - imagine if you will rolling backwards into blue water that is so clear, the visibility seems to stretch out to infinity Happy diver on Tubbataha’s reefs

Look up and there is a good chance of seeing the massive schools of jacks that patrol the upper parts of the reef and then out into the blue where schools of barracuda move up and down the reef wall. Concentrate on the blue and you will see large groups of blacktip reef sharks hunting in the current – often with individual sharks working tag-team with a giant trevally. At this point you tend to have to make a decision… stay focused on the blue on the chance of a pelagic encounter with one of the regular open-water animals that visit Tubbataha such as whalesharks, giant oceanic mantas and tiger sharks. Or you stay focused on the beautiful and wonderfully biodiverse reef slope because, believe me, it’s hard to do both! And, that’s just my description of one of my personal favourite sites - Staghorn Point on the southern tip of the South Atoll. There are another 16 other sites to choose from at Tubbataha and of them at least seven are absolutely world-class in terms of their biodiversity.

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How to dive Tubbataha

Stating the obvious… from a liveaboard, as there is simply no other way to do it, and there are currently around 18 registered vessels all operating from Puerto Princesa midway down the island of Palawan. But the season is limited to about three months from midMarch to mid-June because of the tropical storms from the November to March northeast monsoon and the July and October southwest monsoon. During those three month, the diving conditions are usually excellent with clear skies, calm seas and visibility up to 50 metres! To get to Puerto Princesa (PPS) I flew Qantas from Sydney to Manila, overnighted near the airport and caught a Philippine Airways Express flight the next day – with another overnight stay required before getting on the Philippine Siren.

In summary

There are certain iconic locations around the world where, when I have been fortunate to experience them, a constant thought runs through my mind – there must have been so many places like this once! Tubbataha is a stunning example of just how powerful nature is in creating such Gardens of Eden and what can happen if we humans get out of the way and let it restore that beauty! What you will see at Tubbataha are superb reefs in pristine condition that are bursting at their seams with a veritable smorgasbord of marine life. What you might see are those passing pelagics that are roaming the Sulu Sea, which pass like ships in the night! Was it worth the wait and the expense – well, for me, it certainly was and was the perfect remedy for two years of Covid induced half-life! n

Tubbataha is a stunning example of just how powerful nature is in creating such Gardens of Eden and what can happen if we humans get out of the way and let it restore that beauty! Turtle flypast

Expect rampant marine growth

Iridescent parrotfish

Don Silcock

Don is Scuba Diver’s Senior Travel Editor and is based from Bali in Indonesia. His website has extensive location guides, articles and images on some of the best diving locations in the Indo-Pacific region and ‘big animal’ experiences globally. www.indopacificimages.com

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Mustard’s MASTERCLASS In this instalment, Alex Mustard focuses his attention on macro, explaining what elements are required to create a truly memorable close-up image Photographs courtesy of Alex Mustard / www.amustard.com

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ew underwater photographers are usually pushed towards macro as the easiest place to start with our hobby. While it is true that automatic settings and nonmoving subjects can make basic macro photography point-and-shoot simple, creating really powerful underwater macro imagery will challenge you throughout your lifetime as a diver. This is a type of photography that tests both our diving skills and our photographic ones. A successful macro photograph starts with a subject and the hunt fuels many people’s addiction to this genre of shooting. While many folks are obsessed with the rarity of a species, I really don’t mind what I shoot. But I put as much energy into finding subjects that are particularly co-operative and conveniently posed. Many macro destinations encourage visitors to create critter wish lists, but I think these are counterproductive for quality imagery. A focus on species turns underwater photographers into stamp collectors, bringing home hundreds of shots of different critters, but almost all are simply recordstyle photos. Also, when diving is focused on finding ever-rarer beasties, there is always the temptation of another subject distracting you from making the most of what you’ve got. Subject selected, we now need to focus and frame it, a challenge that gets increasingly tougher the smaller our star. Everyone always asks me what autofocus mode is best, but high-quality diving skills are the most-fundamental step as these ensure the camera is stationary, which makes life much easier for every AF-mode and our compositions. An unstable camera must constantly re-focus both for any movements in the subject and the camera. Conditions are also crucial. If we are expecting strong currents or swell, it might be better to defer the macro lens until a later dive. In supermacro shooting, it is common for photographers to steady themselves. Importantly, this does not mean lying all over the environment, all that is needed is the lightest touch with a muck stick or two

finger hold onto the sand or bare rock, not delicate marine life. Where a lot of photographers go wrong is that they think their whole body needs to be anchored down. In fact, only the camera needs to be absolutely stationary and we can achieve this easily with just a two-fingertip hold. My favoured modes for macro are using a single AF point, which I can move around the frame over the point of the subject (such as an eye) that I want precisely focused. For free-swimming fish I usually use an intelligent dynamic point focus that will track subject movement, once it has locked on. My current cameras doesn’t have eye-tracking focus, but I suspect I will make use of this feature, which is reportedly excellent on the latest mirrorless bodies. I also always use a continuously focusing mode, which keeps the camera focusing to compensate for any motion I create while hovering. A popular feature tucked away in the menus of most cameras is an option to decouple the AF activation from the shutter release and asign it another button. This means when you press the shutter the camera will not focus. Instead we assign the focusing to a button that falls beneath the right thumb lever on your housing. This allows you to focus and to not focus when you want to, which lets us finetine the focus and composition with small movements of the camera. This is my preferred method for supermacro shooting. Perhaps the biggest trap in macro photography is thinking that’s the job done. After all, we’ve found the subject and focused it, surely now is the time to click? No, we must also consider our background. Our aim is to create a background that shows the subject off to the maximum. There are many options for macro backgrounds, but you won’t go wrong with any of the big three: black, blue or blurred. Black backgrounds are the most eye-catching and are particularly effective with colourful and complicated subjects. They require a fast shutterspeed and a low ISO to exclude ambient light and turn it black. The easiest way to get a black


A co-operative common subject is better than a rare species

Importantly, this does not mean lying all over the environment, all that is needed is the lightest touch with a muck stick or two finger hold onto the sand or bare rock, not delicate marine life


Blue backgrounds suit behaviour

Diving skills are rewarded by precise focus and framing

background is to find the angle that lets you frame the subject against open water. Open water doesn’t reflect the flash, so only the subject appears. Alternatively, we can selectively light the subject, either using a snooted strobe or with inwards lighting (we will climb into both of those in future columns). We should aim to maximise the depth of field of the subject by using a closed aperture because the black background will give us an isolated subject. If there is a downside to black backgrounds it is that they make it look like you only night dive. Blue backgrounds give macro pictures more of a feeling of the sea and work well with fish portraits, behaviour shots and set off any warm-coloured subjects. Blue backgrounds also work best when we try and frame the subject against open water. However, now we want to let ambient light into the picture, choosing a slower shutter speed, a higher ISO and a slightly more-open aperture to achieve this. These shots are easiest to achieve in bright, shallow conditions. The final option is the blurred background, which is our trick shot for when we have a great subject in a less-than-ideal position. The key to this technique is opening the aperture so that the background detail is completely smoothed out. There is no magic setting here, how much we have to open the aperture depends greatly on the size of the subject, but the butterysmooth background always looks classy. n

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DIVERS ALERT NETWORK: ASIA-PACIFIC

Divers Alert Network, widely known as DAN, is an international non-profit medical and research organisation dedicated to the safety and health of divers. WWW.DANAP.ORG

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DELAYED EVACUATION ALMOST COST DIVER FULL RECOVERY

ime is of the essence in dive emergencies. If proper treatment is delayed for an extended period, a diver’s chance of full recovery diminishes. Complications can arise when travelling to remote destinations where accessing appropriate care requires hours-long boat rides or long road trips. June and her partner were on a diving holiday in the South Pacific. Although they planned their dive, they unexpectedly encountered strong downdraft currents that quickly pulled them and their guide down to 30m. As they tried to stop their descent, they soon encountered an upward current that carried them to the surface. The dive lasted only three minutes. The guide suggested they try again, and the trio dived for nearly an hour at 22m. They had a long surface interval and dived again to a maximum depth of 24m. They tried a third dive later in the day and faced strong currents again. As June returned to the boat after the third dive, she immediately felt severe pain in her neck and shoulder - she knew something was very wrong. June lost mobility in her left arm, hand, and fingers. She and her companions were concerned about decompression sickness (DCS) or a stroke. They contacted DAN right away. The on-call medic suggested that June be taken back to shore to the closest medical facility. After a five-hour boat ride they reached the dock, and June and her partner got into a taxi for an hour-long trip through the pouring rain on winding roads. June’s condition worsened; she lost feeling in both feet.

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They arrived at the hospital very late only to discover that the hyperbaric physician was not on the premises. June’s partner urged hospital staff to bring in the doctor and then called DAN again. With painful joints and numbness in her arms and legs, June’s condition was deteriorating when the doctor arrived at 2.30am. The doctor said he could not administer hyperbaric treatment until the nurse arrived later in the morning. But the phone call to DAN was enlightening. The medic advised that the chamber at the hospital they were at had not complied with recommended upgrades. Now that June had been examined by medical staff and they had ruled out serious, non-diving-related medical problems, DAN undertook a transfer of the couple to the closest appropriate hyperbaric chamber facility.

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After a five-hour boat ride they reached the dock, and June and her partner got into a taxi for an hour-long trip through the pouring rain on winding roads

© Stephen Frink

A few hours later the couple boarded an air ambulance and were evacuated to Auckland, New Zealand. After a fourand-a-half-hour flight, the couple arrived at the navy hospital close to midnight. June was still suffering, and it had been 32 hours since the onset of her symptoms. Doctors were worried that the delays in treatment could mean a long and incomplete recovery, but they worked quickly to get June into a chamber. After just six hours, June could move her hands and arms slightly - a good sign. Additional treatments kept

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helping, and June continued to improve, undergoing seven treatments in all. A few weeks after the treatments, June still had problems with co-ordination, balance, and strength, but continued to work with a neurophysiologist who helped her regain confidence and independence. “Never get in the water with a tank on your back without having DAN insurance. DAN helped us get through the ordeal seamlessly: They got a doctor on the line and continually called us back throughout the first night,” said June. “They helped us make decisions … I am deeply grateful to be alive and moving normally. DAN takes the guesswork out of emergency logistics. Once a member calls the 24/7 hotline, DAN arranges whatever care is needed, including evacuations and complex air travel arrangements if necessary. Behind the scenes, DAN specialists co-ordinate medical care and transportation with local agencies, and in dive emergencies, DAN medical staff can even consult with local physicians who may not be familiar with dive medicine. n

DAN 24/7 EMERGENCY HOTLINES

In the event of a diving incident, we encourage all divers to call the DAN Hotline promptly for advice: • Australia: 1800 088 200 • International: +1 919 684 9111 World.DAN.org

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Diving with…

JULES CASEY

PT Hirschfield chats to Jules Casey, who has become a bit of an Instagram phenomenon for her freediving adventures Photographs by Jules Casey, Sam Glenn Smith and Aaron Smith

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reediver and scuba diver Jules Casey is better known to her 126,000 Instagram followers as Onebreathdiver. Her short, daily videos shot on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula are regularly featured by global news outlets. With the simplest of camera equipment, she’s an accomplished photographer, garnering three awards in the 2019 Ocean Art competition (including the Rising Star Award and Best in Show Runner Up), as well as 1st, 2nd and 3rd placings in various international underwater photography competitions and a shortlisting in the 2020 Australian Photography Awards Wildlife Category. Jules is in the water most days, often doing up to three dives a day. Though she has dived local sites, including Blairgowrie and Rye Piers thousands of times, it’s rare that she doesn’t find something new and exciting to share with her followers. Jules didn’t start scuba diving until her mid-30s. Following an incident where she got narked at 40m and unintentionally went much deeper, she took a 17-year break from diving: ‘I thought I was going to die that day. I got back in the water a few times after that but just didn’t enjoy it. I found it all too cold. The gear was heavy and it was just hard work’. Then for her 50th birthday, she swam with whalesharks at Exmouth and was inspired by how long the underwater photographers could hold their breath. Soon Jules was in Bali, learning to freedive. During the next three years she was obsessed with freediving from boats and in the shallow, temperate waters beneath her

Don’t use age as an excuse to stop you from doing something, and never stop searching for what might inspire you and become your next obsession 50

local piers, also working as a dolphin and seal snorkel guide. ‘That’s when I started filming. I wanted everyone to see what I saw’. She buddied with marine life photographer Steve Kuiter, who eventually offered, ‘My dad Rudie’s not diving anymore, so you can use his gear’, which led her back to scuba. ‘I remember my first night back on scuba and realised the Port Phillip Bay seafloor was covered with so many little critters I was missing out on as a freediver.’ (Ironically, Jules’ videos led many scuba divers to discover a world teeming with life higher in the water column that they had previously been oblivious to, just beneath the surface). ‘I love the freedom of not having a tank, so I freedive for certain conditions or if I’m chasing critters I know are at the surface. But I’m finding more and more I’m loving scuba diving because of behaviours like octopuses mating which I could never capture without scuba.’ Originally Jules felt that tropical waters had ‘ruined’ her for temperate diving, but now she’s loving Melbourne’s temperate water (ranging from 22 degrees in summer to 8 degrees in winter). ‘It’s about having the right gear which is what I didn’t have all those years ago. That shock of jumping into cold water just destroyed me. Now I have a custommade open cell suit. Having the right gear makes all the difference.’ Despite having an Olympus EM1 Mk II camera, Jules still favours using GoPros and her first underwater

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camera, a simple Olympus TG4 camera, which gives her optimal scope to document any sized critter on a single dive. Jules’ focuses her attention on marine animal behaviours. ‘There’s not many dives where I don’t have a photo or at least 20 seconds of footage I can use. I’m constantly looking for a behaviour I haven’t seen before.’ ‘The first image which did well for me which was my ‘Seahorse Bus’. I spent a year learning how to use that particular camera with that particular subject, learning about juvenile seahorse behaviour. Even though I don’t know everything technically about the camera, if you spend every day in the water photographing the same subjects over and over, you’ll soon be able to witness and capture the behaviour that you’re looking for.’ Beyond dramatic behaviours like animals mating, hunting and fighting, sometimes it’s the simplest images and footage that have the greatest public reach through her own Instagram and the efforts of US-based agent Storyful which promotes her work globally. Among Jules’ viral videos are a male seahorse transferring offspring into a female’s pouch, a scallop swimming comically over the sand and an endearing selfie swim with a cute pufferfish. She’s also assisted many marine animals such as fiddler rays and Port Jackson sharks, filming her efforts to raise awareness. Jules’ underwater exploits were featured as part of the ABC TV’s New Years Eve Fireworks coverage in 2021. Her regular collection of litter under the piers has also inspired

Getting friendly with a pufferfish Octopus and eggs

Seahorse

Jules in her happy place

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her audience, and she enjoys receiving photos and videos of adults and children picking up rubbish on the beach, motivated by her efforts. Beyond her daily interactions with her rapidly growing community of followers, Jules loves her tight knit community of divers who are willing to share their experience and knowledge with her. As someone who discovered diving later in life, she wants to discourage others from seeing age as a barrier to diving: ‘I had a 35 year old who told me she wished she could do what I do but believed she’d left it too late. But when I started freediving at 50, my life changed. You’re never too old to try something new. Don’t use age as an excuse to stop you from doing something, and never stop searching for what might inspire you and become your next obsession.’ Next on Jule’s adventure list are great white sharks in South Australia, the cuttlefish aggregations at Whyalla, and a Solomon Islands liveaboard prize trip she won in a photo contest. She also has an upcoming collaboration with a major dive watch company. In the long term, Jules hopes to travel more and to see orcas in Norway. You can follow her daily adventures on Instagram @onebreathdiver. n

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beyond technical

www.narkedat90.com

Pete Mesley is a regular visitor to the enormous ocean liner Mikhail Lermontov, and here he takes us on a whistlestop tour of New Zealand’s iconic tech-wreck Photographs by Pete Mesley / www.petemesley.com

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n the morning of Saturday 15 February 1986 The Lermontov is smothered in at midnight, the 155-metre, 20,000-tonne marine growth Russian ocean liner Mikhail Lermontov departed Wellington to cross the treacherous Cook Straight for Picton at the head of the Queen Charlotte Sound on the northern coast of the South Island. It had been chartered to travel company CTC for a summer cruising season in the South Pacific. The following day she departed Picton at 3pm for Milford Sound on the southwest coast of the South Island. Captain Don Jamison, a Marlborough Sounds harbour pilot, was to remain aboard the vessel instead of leaving her at Long Island, so that he could be available to pilot the vessel into Milford Sound. A total of 743 people were on board. Of the 372 passengers, 327 were Australians, including five children, 36 British, six Americans, two Germans, and one New Zealander. Of the 348 crew members, 330 were Russian, 18 were British, another nine were Australians, and there were 13 British CTC staff members in transit. The weather was overcast with heavy rain and a 25-knot southerly wind, which was not conducive to sight-seeing, but Captain Jamison The eerie sight continued with taking the huge vessel very of hundreds close to shore, as he had been doing since of dolls coming aboard. This finally proved fateful when the ship struck rocks at Cape Jackson. The situation was further exacerbated by the failure of the Russian Captain Vorobyov to initially accept Diving the Lermontov assistance as the vessel rapidly took on water, and they The lure of the Mikhail Lermontov is becoming far stronger, limped towards Port Gore, where the mighty liner steadily and more and more people are venturing into the depths of slipped beneath the surface, thankfully with just one fatality its holds and passageways these days. Dubbed by Richie among the crew, though the evacuation of all of the guests Kohler as ‘the Andrea Doria of the South Pacific’, the Mikhail was rather fraught! Lermontov sits in 36m of water lying hard to starboard. She rests in Port Gore, off the top of the South Island in New Zealand. The port gunnel of the ship lies in just 12m of water, and not far from the shotline is a stairwell leading to the ‘Winter Garden’ on the Salon Deck. The Winter Garden plays host to many rooms which are now accessible by the windows, which have been broken to gain access. In the forward quarter of the Salon Deck is the social area. There are a number of bars onboard. Nevsky Bar is situated on the shallow (port) side of the wreck, while Astoria Bar is on the deeper starboard side. Further forward is the Bolshoi Lounge. This is where the crew entertained the passengers with traditional Russian dancing and music. Heading aft on the same deck, just past the cinema is the library. There isn’t much in the library, but in the lobby just outside is a set of stairs. Under these stairs, stacked from floor to ceiling, are all the same books - Fundamental Law of the USSR! Some light reading for the passengers! There is much to see within the ship Swimming further aft you drop down through a double

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Come visit the World Heritage Great Barrier Reef with the award-winning crew of Passions of Paradise. Snorkel in pristine waters, go for a dive, or relax with a drink and enjoy the sailing. The best memories on the reef, no filter required. www.passions.com.au +61 7 4041 1600 email: reservations@passions.com.au Departing from Cairns, Queensland

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Computers • O2 Cells • Gas Analysers Cables & Connectors • Rebreather Parts PathFinder Strobes • Sensors Tools • Solenoids There are still piles of VB Bitter, a popular Australian beer (only popular to the Aussies!) in the store room just behind the bar doorway (though the doors have long since gone) into the pool area. There is Neptune’s Bar, where you can enjoy a nice beverage while you cool off in the pool! There are still piles of VB Bitter, a popular Australian beer (only popular to the Aussies!) in the store room just behind the bar. One of the stand-out dives of this massive wreck is what has been dubbed ‘The Dolls Room’ dive. Situated on the starboard side of the Lounge Deck near the stern of the ship, this dive is no walk in the park. Swimming over the top of the swimming pool conservatory, down past a set of stairs heading towards the Atlantic deck, you are soon at the entrance way. As you enter the deck at mud level, all ambient light is soon lost and the darkness of the wreck engulfs you. You make your way forward keeping the ceiling (the right wall now) hard to your right side. Soon this becomes apparent as you pass a major danger obstruction - the pool store room bulkhead that is hanging by only one hinge! Once you make your way past that, the signs that you are really close to the dolls is clear - a small pair of feet protrude out of the silt and a single limb makes an attempt to get attention. As you edge forward some more, you will spot something on the floor. Skin coloured. Is that hair? As you get closer, a little face will come into view. Haunting eye open. Staring. Divers all report the hairs on the back of their neck pricking up. All the hair used on these dolls was made using human hair, which often freaks people out even more! As you push forward, there is an open door above your head, and fabric wallpaper strands hang down from the doorway like a spider’s web waiting to entangle its prey. If you carefully angle yourself up into the opening, you are confronted by hundreds of faces staring down with their perfect blue eyes. It doesn’t matter how There are numerous bars and lounges in the Lermontov

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The silty wreck demands respect The interior is starting to deteriorate

many times I do this dive, I can’t but help but think about that infamous sinister doll movie – Childs Play - where the main actor is Chucky the doll. So when my light pans over these lifeless faces in the blackest part of the ship, my heart rate increases! The engine room is another spectacular experience. Access is fairly easy through the skylights. Swimming into the main ventilation shaft, the most-powerful lights are quickly gobbled up by the vast expanse of darkness of the engine room space. Then out of the abyss, the top of the engine covers come into view. These Salzer diesel engines powered the twin screws, giving her a cruising speed of up to 21 knots. Make no mistake, this wreck is a lot of fun, but also extremely silty and dangerous. In the first three years of her sinking, three divers lost their lives. But this was all due to lack of proper equipment, experience and training. n

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Raja Ampat part two

In the second of our Creature Features highlighting some of the marine animals that you can see during your visit to the region, Jean-Pierre Nathrass focuses his attention on the green bumphead parrotfish, batfish, sweetlips, dolphins and garden eels Photographs by Meridian Adventure Dive

The total number of oriental sweetlips (Plectorhinchus vittatus) present in the world is unknown. Their population is ongoing, but their presence is mostly confined to the Pacific Ocean, and a slight decline in their numbers has been observed.

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hile swimming through a shallow reef or slope, you will suddenly see a large shadow above or in the distance. While many will immediately think of an approaching shark when the shape becomes clear, you realise that this is no shark but rather the green bumphead parrotfish. As the largest parrotfish species, they can grow up to a length of one-and-a-half metres and weigh up to 75kg with distinctive dark green scales that cover most of the body. Interestingly these large fish only use their pectoral fins for swimming. But the most-distinctive characteristic of the species is the large bumps found on the fish’s forehead. One could mistake the bump for a crash helmet when observing this fish, which is what the bump is used for. These impressive fish are known to travel

in large schools feeding on algae found on hard coral structures, ramming into and using their large, almostcartoonish sets of teeth to bite into the coral. The parrotfish family all have two sets of teeth. The first and prominent set breaks chunks of coral while the second inner set mulls the coral along with the algae for digestion. These teeth are known to be harder than gold. This process produces fine sand that the fish defecates and forms part of beaches and sandbanks over time. A male leads each school of parrotfish, and when the leader dies, he will be replaced by another. It is even possible for parrotfish to change their sex if and when needed. While the green bumphead parrotfish is a large fish, it is still at risk of predators, and like smaller parrotfish in the family, it can produce a slime-like substance, mostly at night, that masks its scent from potential predators. Often, you can see these slime pockets in crevasses and holes where these fish are hiding on night dives.

While the shallow waters of Raja Ampat is home to many schools of fish, the deeper waters are also home to many interesting sightings. In stronger currents most often just off the reef slope or in canyons between reefs, dogtooth barracuda gather in large groups and seemingly just hover in the oncoming currents.

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Batfish

The long-fin batfish, Platax, is a fish species in the Raja Ampat region, especially near jetties, shallowly anchored boats, and seaweed patches found around the islands. These silver-grey fish have distinct black markings that cross over the eyes and run from the pectoral fin across to the belly. The elongated dorsal and anal fins have yellow colouration, and often a few spots of yellow can be seen closer to the eye regions. The pouting mouth gives the fish a rather sassy look. While not the most flashy of species, these fish can often be found in small to medium-sized schools swimming closer to the surface on shallow reefs and slopes. It is pretty common to start your dive and soon after start spotting batfish. These fish provide great photo opportunities while they slowly glide over the reef or are framed by the blue waters surrounding them, where the penetrating light from the surface can give the illusion that they are shimmering. However, these fish are not the strongest swimmers and will often glide along with currents feeding on the algae, plankton, and small invertebrates being taken by the currents. Most notably, these batfish will often decide to buddy up with a single diver and often spend the entire dive shadowing you or even swimming right up alongside your body. Many local dive guides even claim to have a best batfish buddy on specific dive sites. This social fish will often even form schools with other species of fish. Additionally, these fish have been proven to be very intelligent. They will constantly adapt their routines or swimming route to match the currents bringing their food source or even match times when divers or swimmers usually visit a dive site.

Sweetlips are known to communicate by rubbing their teeth plates together and the sound further being amplified by their air bladders.

While not the most flashy of species, these fish can often be found in small to medium-sized schools swimming closer to the surface on shallow reefs and slopes Batfish on the reef

Longfin batfish grow extremely fast compared to other fish and quickly reach their full size. Being very social they often form schools with a variety of other species.

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Vast shoal of sweetlips

of the largest Sweetlip species. The two-stripe or giant sweetlips can often be found in and around crevasses and rocky outcroppings at around 30m. While not as colourful as the other species in the area, these dark-spotted fish can grow to an impressive size of one metre. Regardless of the size and species, all sweetlips are carnivores feeding on crustaceans and smaller fish in large quantities daily. Sweetlips are well known to provide divers with incredible photographic opportunities, especially on dive sites such as Cape Kri at the turn of the tide, where large shoals are found swimming at the point and into the oncoming current. In contrast, diving in these conditions may be challenging to some. However, when diving with an experienced and professional diving company, you will be able to experience one of the most awe-inspiring moments Raja Ampat has to offer. Batfish

Sweetlips

Plectorhinchus, more lovingly known as sweetlips, is a species of fish commonly found on Raja Ampat’s reefs. These fish vary significantly in size and colour, but one defining feature is found in all. The large puffy lips rival those found on fashion runways across the world. There are over 30 known species of sweetlips found in the Raja Ampat waters. Smaller sweetlips swim in large groups, while the larger species tend to be alone or in pairs in deeper waters. Sweetlips are known to communicate by rubbing their teeth plates together and the sound further being amplified by their air bladders. A sound Tropical island paradise that divers can even hear at times. The most commonly encountered in the area are the yellow-ribbon and oriental sweetlips. These species are of the smaller variant but are easily spotted due to their bright yellow colours. For example, the yellow-ribbon has prominent yellow and white stripes that run the length of the body with neon yellowfins. The oriental, however, has black and white lines running the length of the body and bright yellow fins spotted with black, much like that of a leopard. While these two species can be found swimming in large shoals on shallow reefs and slopes, Raja Ampat is also home to one

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Aerial view showing the shallows

Dolphins

While many associate Raja Ampat with large marine mammals like the manta and dugong, few realise that the area is home to many dolphin species. While it is very uncommon to encounter these on dives, a keen-eyed boat driver or dive guide will often spot large pods in the distance. When approving dolphins these pods by boat, they will playfully swim alongside the boat’s bow and even surf the wake. It is also possible to get a quick snorkel session with these playful mammals. While it can be challenging to identify the individual species from the surface, we will highlight a few of the species that have been spotted in the area. The most commonly found dolphin in the region is the common bottlenose dolphin. These dolphins are incredibly intelligent and are known to use sound to communicate and hunt for their prey. They are usually found in groups and mostly travel in tight group formations in a set direction with minimal variation. Watching a pod of bottlenose is like watching a well-rehearsed group of synchronised swimmers. Spinner dolphins have also been encountered in the area. This small dolphin is known for its acts of aerial acrobatics. They can leap out of the water and perform various spins and turns. While this is incredible to observe in the wild, experts believe this behavior is a reason. Many believe that the spinner dolphin uses these ariel feats to communicate and even a way to remove any parasites from their bodies. The spotted dolphin travels in large pods of up to 200 individuals. These playful dolphins enjoy surfing in the wake of passing boats and even swim along the boat’s bow giving guests onboard a perfect opportunity to observe them from up close.

These eels are alerted to movement by vibration in the sand, which means even the slightest movement or kick by a diver can alert the entire colony to your presence

Garden eels

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Bottlenose dolphins are super swimmers, gliding through the water using their curved dorsal fin on their back, a powerful tail and pointed flippers. They can reach speeds over 30km an hour and dive as deep as 250m below the surface!

Garden eels

Sweetlips in the soft corals

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While diving in Raja Ampat, you will often encounter strips of sand between the rich coral reef and underwater rock formations. While most will swim past these areas towards the next reef area, they are missing out on observing one of the newest discovered species in the area. The Papuan garden eel. Upon observing the sand patches, you will often notice shapes resembling seagrass gently swaying with the ocean’s movement. However, when investigating closer, you might find that the seagrass has mysteriously vanished, leaving a small tell-tale hole in the ocean bed. Few realise that they have been observing the small Papuan garden eel. Unlike their more prominent, easier-to-spot, and better-known family members, such as the moray eel, these eels only grow to about 60cm. The eels are identified by their spotted bodies and comically large yellow eyes. The garden eel stays in a small burrow and, when threatened, will retreat into its depths. When they re-emerge, they resemble a field of fast-growing grass. While it can be challenging to spot these critters and even more challenging to get close enough to see them, it is possible truly. These eels are alerted to movement by vibration in the sand, which means even the slightest movement or kick by a diver can alert the entire colony to your presence. Then, with patience, you will see them stick their heads out again and gently sway in the so-called breeze, feeding on the plankton that comes with the currents. n

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CHANGE THE WAY YOU DIVE FOREVER WITH MERIDIAN ADVENTURE DIVE Access to the most Dive Sites in Raja Ampat, Indonesia Best eco-conscious Dive Boats in the world Top of the range Aqualung Dive Equipment and Gear Fusion restaurant, Honest Food made to order Cleanest Barefoot Luxury hotel in the jungle Adventure Activities for all ages above and below the water On-Site Professional Dive Specialists Community Driven, eco-conscious, socially responsible hotel and diving facility At Meridian Adventure Dive Resort, the Raja Ampat you’ve dreamed of is waiting. CALL US

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Diving the south Terry Smith experiences some amazing diving in the South Andaman Sea aboard The Phinisi, and feels like he has contributed via a spot of shark-related citizen science Photographs by Terry Smith and Huw Penson

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Stunning soft corals

The sea’s northern and eastern third is less than 180m deep, in part because vast quantities of silt have been deposited by the Irrawaddy River at its delta. The western and central half of the sea is 900m to 3,000m deep.

T

he first site of the trip was the Koh Haa Lagoon for a check dive to see how everyone was underwater. Each dive guide had a small group of four divers which would be the group for the entire trip. It was a great way to start, it let everyone get comfortable and the guides could assess the divers. The visibility was good 20-30 metres with a clean white sand bottom in places where I saw a mantis shrimp, a spot-faced moray eel, cabbage coral and schools of yellowtail fusiliers. After a hearty breakfast, every meal was hearty with plenty of food, we relaxed until dive two at a site called Koh Haa #6 with lots of soft corals and schools of fish. Dive three was a site named The Chimney, a swim upwards through rock to finish in swallower water. The chimney was around three metres in diameter and was full of glassfish, a great finish to the dive. Our last dive of the day was at The Cathedral, a site with two large caverns but the larger was the Cathedral which reached back into the rock for a good 30 metres plus and upwards for the same size in height. At the top of the cavern, there was a build-up of air which you could pop up into if you wished. With the light dropping outside the entrance, it is a great photo opportunity, outwards into the light. A great first day, everyone was relaxing and looking forward to more amazing dives tomorrow.

Diving – day two

Leopard shark

Crinoid perched on soft corals

The vessel left early around 4.30am as it was better to overnight on the mooring in a protected area we motored out to sites in the open ocean, Hin Muang and Hin Deang. We spent the whole day in this area, we were fortunate with calm weather and super clear visibility of over 30 metres at times. These sites are two rock pinnacles jutting up from the ocean floor from around 70m, in an otherwise empty area of the ocean. Hin Muang known also as Purple Rock is a beautiful site with soft purple corals (hence the name) with fish life everywhere. Our dive one and three was here. Just hovering in one place you can see so much. Clownfish swim in and out of their anemones, damselfish attacking others who get into their territory. White-eyed morays, redtooth triggerfish, whip corals, soft corals, and tiger cowries, just an amazing dive.

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Coral grouper among soft corals

Whaleshark

Hin Deang or Red Rock was covered in red coral, again hence the name. Dive two was here with large schools of jacks, blue fin trevallies hunting Both of our dives were like this although there was a cold thermocline that came through on the first dive. Hin Deang or Red Rock was covered in red coral, again hence the name. Dive two was here with large schools of jacks, blue fin trevallies hunting. It was a spot for larger fish. The sunset dive was again at Hin Muang but we all decided on this. It was a great choice as we dropped into a school of jacks, with tunas swimming in and out hunting glassfish as well. Schools of emperor fish were also fish hunting in packs. They had an effective hunting style where one would attack fish hidden in corals then others would join in surrounding the coral outcrop, blocking any exit for the little ones which meant one of them would be fed. Large moray eels were also out looking for food. Everywhere you looked there was an action of some kind, an awesome dive! Back on board, everyone had stories of predatory fish. After dinner, we headed off towards Koh Phi Phi Island as it offered better shelter for the overnight.

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Diving - day three

Waking up to an amazing sunrise it was a day for diving. Our first dive was in the hope to see blacktip reef sharks at the site Koh Bida Nok. Unfortunately, our group didn’t but others did which was great. Around four one-and-a-half metre blacktip sharks were seen. Great relaxing dive with giant barrel sponges, false clownfish, skunk clownfish, painted spiny lobsters and a large crown of thorns starfish. Dive 2 was a wreck, the Kled Kaew Wreck. This Royal Thailand Navy transport vessel was was purposely sunk. The structure is larger intact, with large schools of barracuda, snapper and lionfish. Good visibility, overall a great wreck dive. Due to conditions of predicted bad weather the decision was to head back to Koh Bida Nai. A great dive with large boulders with diverse fish live. We spent time with a friendly mantis shrimp which was cool. Our sunset dive turned into a bit of a night dive which was nice. The dive was on a wall in Tonsai Bay, part of the Koh

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Phi Phi area, where we went looking for seahorses. Our guide Steve knew where they were and lead us right to the fan with three sitting there waiting. Photographer Huw Penson was on hand and captured the yellow seahorses in great clarity. This was the night Marc from Oceans for All conducted his presentation, which was interesting and informative. The Foundation has great projects on offer and is committed to helping the local Phuket community take care of their marine environments. Well worth coming out on their next trip. After that, it was a quiet evening with everyone reflecting on the trip that had been. Half of the group would depart tomorrow with the other half staying on and travelling up to the North Andaman Sea.

Ghost pipefish

Expect vast shoals of fish

The final day

Our first dive was the King Cruiser wreck. A ferry which hit a reef leaving a gaping hole in it to sink further away from the reef in the open ocean. Parts of it have collapsed since I was last here six years ago, but the superstructure is still intact. You can see the propellors still, with lots of nudibranchs and bearded scorpionfish on her, with large schools of big eye yellow snapper and other fish. Our last dive was shallower close to Phuket itself. A great way to finish with nudibranchs and great visibility. I saw a white mouth moray eel which was a funky little fella. After lunch, we started to motor back to Chalong Pier. We fixed up the onboard expenses that we may have had, and left contact details with one another. Once back in the port of Chalong Bay the crew helped us place our luggage into the tender and ferried us over to the pier to our waiting taxi. The Phinisi had organised our transport back to our hotels which were included in the price. The Phinisi at anchor

Diver cruising past the King Cruiser Wreck

Overall

I have to say this was a very organised and professional trip. If you’re looking for that bit extra on a dive trip, where the crew will help with your gear, drop you off and pick you up by tenders, a warm drink or smoothie (and sometimes a hot towel) when you arrive back on deck after your dive, then this is the vessel for you. The crew are friendly and welcoming, the food is fantastic, plentiful, and super tasty! A great trip that I would recommend to any scuba diver. Thank you The Phinisi, its crew and Master Liveaboards for an amazing trip! n

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Each issue, the Scuba Diver test team bring you the latest product and equipment releases from the dive industry. Cannot wait for the next edition? Keep up-to-date with all the latest gear news and reviews by heading over to the Scuba Diver YouTube channel! www.youtube.com/ScubaDiverMagazine

MARES ERGOTRIM GUARDIAN AND GRACE SLS BCDS | SRP: AUD$999

Over 20 years ago, Mares was the first scuba manufacturer to introduce an alternative buoyancy system called Airtrim. This high-functioning power inflator was one of the most-innovative designs in BCD history, and many other equipment manufacturers quickly followed suit, however, none compared to the performance of the pneumatically balanced Airtrim. Although the Mares Airtrim is still the pioneer in power inflators, it has remained unchanged for many years. Over the past several years, Mares has been hard at work engineering, not just a ‘restyling’ of this vital product, but a new system altogether. The Ergotrim is a revolutionary concept that will bring the BCD market to a new era. The Mares Ergotrim incorporates Airtrim 2.0 technology into an ergonomic configuration with pneumatic deflation. A rocker switch lies on top of the inflate and pneumatic deflate buttons to prevent operation at the same time and facilitate smooth airflow. Divers can use the Ergotrim to deflate the BCD no matter their diving position and inflate it at a 40% higher flow rate than original Airtrim. The new Ergotrim also features a traditional oral inflation button - a quick-release clip allows you to quickly disconnect the system from the BCD for oral inflation use. However, one of the most-exciting features is that the Ergotrim is conducive to scuba instruction. Dive pros can use the Ergotrim in the standard position while teaching to demonstrate skills to their students, and then put it into the lower position when pleasure diving. The Mares Ergotrim is now available on the Guardian and Grace BCDs, which are typically well-specced jacket-style units, with SLS integrated weights. www.mares.com

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FOURTH ELEMENT TIDAL ROBE | SRP: AUD$319 First there was the Storm poncho, and now there is the Tidal Robe. Made from recycled material, this fullzip Tidal Robe has been built to keep the warmth in and the elements out. Tested by hardy ocean users, this super soft fleecelined robe, with handwarmer pockets and an adjustable hood, is perfect for keeping cosy after time spent in the water. Use it to warm up after a session in or on the water, or to cover up between dives. This robe is fully fleece-lined for after-swim warmth and is made using approximately 50 recycled plastic bottles. It is available in vibrant orange and a more-muted green. www.fourthelement.com

APEKS HALO | SRP: AUD$220 The Halo spool is the latest addition to the Apeks Lifeline Spool family and is a true innovation in the diving market. The large diameter of the Halo fits perfectly in the hand and allows simple, controlled deployment of the DSMB, and rapid line retrieval, even when wearing thick gloves. Once the DSMB is launched, it is extremely comfortable to hook three fingers through the Halo and ‘hang’ on the line to keep the marker buoy upright on the surface. Like the Apeks spools, it is made from anodised aircraft-grade aluminium, it comes with a stainless steel boltsnap, and the orange, high-visibility line is sewn instead of tied to increase strength. www.apeksdiving.com

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SEALIFE SEA DRAGON FLUORO-DUAL BEAM SRP: AUD$669

In partnership with Fire Dive Gear, SeaLife have created the Sea Dragon Fluoro-Dual Beam, that emits a powerful blue light beam and adds an integrated dichroic filter, creating the optimal light wavelength to ‘excite’ fish, plants or organisms into making a light-filled energy response. Two switchable beams transform the versatile light from a blue fluoro 65° flood light to a white 800 lumen 15° concentrated beam with a push of a button. A rechargeable Lithium Ion 7.4V, 3400 mAh, 25Wh battery delivers power for a full 60 minutes at 100% fluoro emission. With its single button operation, the light can quickly adjust between four brightness modes: 100% fluoro flood, 50% fluoro flood, 100% white spot, and 50% white spot. It is depth rated down to 100m. Two universal, barrier filters are included to improve your experience in underwater fluorescent viewing and imaging. The mask filter fits over the dive mask to filter out the residual presence of blue light emitted by the light (it’s the response from the sea creature you want to see, not the blue light). The second filter attaches to any underwater camera with a lens diameter up to 47mm. A Flex-Connect Single Tray, Grip and fitted case are included with the light. Flex-Connect allows you to quickly and easily transform your camera set from compact to full-featured in just seconds by adding grips, Flex Arms, trays and more with just a ‘click’. Underwater testing shows that more sea creatures fluoresce when exposed to the Sea Dragon Fluoro-Dual Beam when compared to UV lights. For a detailed scientific explanation regarding Blue LEDs vs UV, visit: www.firedivegear.com. Exclusively distributed in Australia by underwater.com.au - dealer enquiries welcome.

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TECLINE V1 ICE TEC II | SRP: €474 Tecline have been establishing themselves in the market when it comes to masks, fins, wetsuits and backplate-andwings, and now they are adding regulators to their resume. The V1 Ice Tec II set-up is designed for single-cylinder diving, and they then have variants for sidemount and twinset diving. The V1 Ice is a neat-looking balanced diaphragm first stage which has two high-pressure ports and four low-pressure ports which are all arranged for optimum hose routing. This V-shape also means that the hoses are very streamlined when you are in a flat trim position. The V1 Ice is made from maritime bronze and features a dry chamber and cold kit, so you can take the plunge when the temperatures drop with no concerns about freeflows.The Tec II second stage is pneumatically balanced and has a large venturi lever and a cracking resistance control knob. The body is made of lightweight but robust materials, and it has an eye-catching outer ring of stainless steel on the front. There is a Teflon coating of metal parts, and an additional heat exchanger for cold waters. The V1 Ice Tec II set-up comes in a distinctive red Tecline bag. www.teclinediving.eu

PARALENZ VAQUITA FLIP MOUNT AND MACRO LENS BUNDLE | SRP: AUD$279

The Paralenz Vaquita is an easy-to-use point-and-shoot underwater camera that tracks your dive depth, temperature and GPS location. With the patented Automatic DepthControlled Colour Correction, you can focus on your dive as it adjusts the white balance relative to your depth. No filters, no housing needed down to 350m - a camera made by divers for diving. Paralenz has now released the Vaquita Flip Mount and Macro Lens Bundle. The included accessory macro lens which mounts on the Paralenz Vaquita Flip Mount can be clicked on and off during the course of the dive. It is perfect for shooting close-up images of fish, corals, textures and more. The macro lens magnifies the subject and enables the camera to focus on short distances for creating super-sharp images. In the box you get a flip mount, allen key, macro lens and a macro lens pouch. www.underwater.com.au

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Each issue, the Scuba Diver test team bring you the latest product and equipment releases from the dive industry. Cannot wait for the next edition? Keep up-to-date with all the latest gear news and reviews by heading over to the Scuba Diver YouTube channel! www.youtube.com/ScubaDiverMagazine

FOURTH ELEMENT TECH FINS | SRP: AUD$195

Mark Evans: Broad, vented ‘jet-fin-style’ fins are all the rage at the moment, not just with the technical diving fraternity, but also with recreational divers wanting to have power, control and manoeuvrability. Alongide their Rec Fins, Fourth Element has now launched their Tech Fins, but being Fourth Element, these are not just your normal run-of-the-mill dive fins. Made from natural rubber, the body and blade of the Tech Fins has a different density gradient – what this means is that the blade portion, equipped with stiffening lateral rails and strengthening ribs, has the optimal stiffness for thrust and ‘snap’, while the foot pocket, especially the leading edge where it meets the top of your foot, is exceptionally soft and supple. This is unbelievably comfortable, and means you can even get away with wearing thinner booties with the fins. Fourth Element have managed to achieve this feat by making the Tech Fins via compression moulding, as opposed to the more-normal injection moulding method. Compression moulding has enabled Fourth Element to give these different areas different densities. Clever stuff. And the innovation continues. The usual three large vents allow water to flow easily along the blade, which is

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said to reduce drag and fatigue, while so-called ‘turbulence disruptors’ on the blade beneath the vents give the fins a distinctive look and make them stand out from other ‘jet-finstyle’ fins. These are apparently inspired by the nodules on the leading edge of the pectoral fins on a humpback whale and are designed to allow the fins to move through the water more efficiently. What this means underwater is that you get an immense amount of thrust from the fins. They deliver a terrific frogkick, but work with modified flutter, helicopter turns, and so on as well. Diving in my drysuit, these provided huge amounts of power, and I could make small adjustments to my positioning as I was taking photographs with ease. The short, stumpy nature of the fin blade also means they are excellent in tight, confined areas, like inside wrecks or cave systems. The Tech Fins are slightly negatively buoyant, but not massively so, which means they are not too heavy for the travelling diver. Medium tip the scales at around 2kg, XXLarge take this up to 3.5kg.

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Stainless-steel spring straps with a large heel pad, complete with big thumb loop, keep the fins securely in place and are easy to pull on and pull off, regardless of exposure protection on your hands. A handy webbing and stainlesssteel hanging/carrying strap comes with the fins, and goes through the hole in the tip of the blade. This can be used for storage of the fins on the hook in your dive lock up, when you are walking to and from the dive site, or even for when you are negotiating a dodgy exit and need both hands free. While the Tech Fins are robustly constructed, and natural rubber is inherently tough and durable, it is reassuring to know that all the components are recyclable when the fins reach their ‘end of life’. The Tech Fins comes in four sizes (Medium, Large, X-Large and XX-Large) and three colour-ways – all-black for the traditionalists, grey with an orange heel-pad for those who want a bit of colour, and an eye-catching aqua turquoise blue for those who really want to stand out. www.fourthelement.com

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AUSTRALIA NEW SOUTH WALES

QUEENSLAND

DIVE EDEN

SHELLHARBOUR SCUBA & PHOTOGRAPHY

LADY ELLIOT ISLAND ECO RESORT

t: 04 1002 6990 e: diveeden@gmail.com Guided dives of the wrecks, vibrant wharves and shoreline in Eden, Merimbula and Tathra. Scuba and Freediving courses are available. www.diveeden.com.au

t: 02 4296 4266 e: info@shellharbourscuba.com.au a: 41 Addison Street, Shellharbour, NSW, 2529 Free guided shore diving at Bass Point reserve. SDI/TDI scuba training. Dive photography & travel. Retail Sales, hire & servicing. www.shellharbourscuba.com.au

t: +61 7 5536 3644 e: reservations@ladyelliot.com.au a: Lady Elliot Island, Southern Great Barrier Reef, QLD Lady Elliot Island ‘Home of the Manta Ray’ boasts 20 incredible dive sites and is renowned for amazing marine encounters. www.ladyelliot.com.au

DIVE IMPORTS AUSTRALIA t: (+61) 24 367 5512 e: info@diveimportsaustralia.com.au a: Shop 5/188 The Entrance Road Erina 2250 Central Coast NSW The Only PADI 5 STAR IDC Centre in Central Coast and Closest Dive Shop to dive ex HMAS Adelaide which located at Terrigal. www.diveimportsaustralia.com.au

EXPEDITION DIVE t: 1800 463 483 | e: info@expeditiondive.com.au a: Suite 683/41/464-480 Kent St, Sydney, NSW, 2000 PADI Courses • Guided Diving • Scuba Equipment. Expedition Dive is a full-service scuba shop with access to the best dive sites around Sydney. www.expeditiondive.com.au

FEET FIRST DIVE t: 02 4984 2092 e: enquiries@feetfirstdive.com.au a: 97 Stockton St, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 SDI/TDI SCUBA, Snorkelling, & Spearfishing Retail & Training Centre. Shore dives in marine sanctuary, grey nurse shark double boat dives. www.feetfirstdive.com.au

LETS GO ADVENTURES t: 02 4981 4331 e: fun@letsgoadventures.com.au a: Shop 8W, d’Albora Marina, Teramby Rd, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 PADI facility Introductory dives through to Instructor Courses. Guided shore & boat trips for divers & snorkellers. Retail Sales & Servicing. www.letsgoadventures.com.au

OCEAN HUT FISHING AND DIVE t: 02 4476 2278 e: darryl@oceanhut.net a: 23 Graham Street, Narooma, NSW, 2546 We are a PADI retail outlet for most diver requirements including hire and air fills. www.compleatanglernarooma.com.au

SCUBA HAVEN t: 0407 457 542 e: info@scubahaven.com.au a: 20 Merrigal Rd, Port Macquarie, NSW, 2444 SCUBA Diving Port Macquarie and Laurieton Areas. Offering Dive trips, Courses, Introductory dives, Sales and services. www.scubahaven.com.au

SCUBA WAREHOUSE t: 61 2 96891389 e: info@scubawarehouse.com.au a: 1/50 George Street, Clyde NSW 2142, Sydney We are a PADI 5-Star IDC centre that specialises in personal tuition courses and outfitting divers in all things scuba. www.scubawarehouse.com.au

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SOUTH WEST ROCKS DIVE CENTRE t: +612 6566 6474 e: info@swrdive.com.au a: 98 Gregory Street, South West Rocks, NSW Australia’s best Shark and Cave dive. Family owned and operated for over 40 Years. swrdive.com.au

ST GEORGE UNDERWATER CENTRE t: 61 2 9502 2221 e: info@stgeorgeunderwater.com.au a: 1/148 Bellevue Parade, Carlton, NSW, 2218 We have been in the industry for over 62 years. We are a TDI SDI 5 star training centre. We service, train and travel. www.stgeorgeunderwater.com.au

WINDANG DIVE & SPEARFISHING t: 02 4296 4215 e: info@windangdive.com.au a: Shop 1, 239 Windang Road, Windang, NSW, 2528 Scuba Diving Courses to Instructor. Spearfishing needs and servicing of all brands of scuba and spearfishing. www.windangdive.com.au

QUEENSLAND AQUA ADVENTURES PTY LTD t: 07 55917117 e: info@aquaadventures.com.au a: 95 Marine Parade, Southport QLD 4215 Padi 5 Star Instructor Development Centre, oldest and most experienced operating dive company on the Gold Coast. www.aquaadventures.com.au

BLUE DIVE PORT DOUGLAS t: 0427 983 907 | e: info@bluedive.com.au a: Port Douglas – Please call 0427 983 907. Superb private guided dives on the best Agincourt Reefs. Private multi-day dive charters. www.bluedive.com.au

BUNDABERG AQUA SCUBA t: 07 4153 5761 e: Julian@aquascuba.com.au a: 17 Walla Street, Bundaberg, QLD, 4670 Bundaberg has world class wreck diving sites, access to the Southern Great Barrier Reef and the best coral reef shore diving in Queensland. www.aquascuba.com.au

KPT DIVING & MARINE SERVICES t: 07 4783 1519 e: info@yongaladive.com.au a: 36 Braby Street, Alva, QLD, 4807 We provide unique trips, including a beach launch & a fast, exhilarating ride to the dive site! www.yongaladive.com.au

MANTA LODGE AND SCUBA CENTRE t: 07 34098888 e: info@mantalodge.com.au a: 132 Dickson way, Point Lookout, QLD, 4183 Amazing diving all year round. Manta Rays, Sharks, turtles and whales along with a huge variety of marine life. www.mantalodge.com.au

PASSIONS OF PARADISE t: 07 4041 1600 e: Reservations@passions.com.au a: Reef Fleet Terminal, 1 Spence Street, Cairns, QLD Dive, snorkel and sail the Great Barrier Reef from Cairns onboard a sailing catamaran with locally owned Passions of Paradise. www.passions.com.au

SCUBA IQ t: +61 (0)404964878 e: info@scubaiq.com.au a: PO Box 588, Port Douglas, QLD 4877 PADI & TDI/SDI Dive operator. Courses for all levels – Guided Diving – Liveaboards to the Ribbon Reefs, Coral Sea + more. www.scubaiq.com.au

SCUBA WORLD t: 07 5444 8595 e: info@scubaworld.com.au a: 207 Brisbane Road, Mooloolaba, 4557, QLD We create safe, comfortable, enthusiastic divers who always have a fun, personal and enjoyable experience at Scuba World. scubaworld.com.au

SUNREEF t: 07 5444 5656 e: info@sunreef.com.au a: 11-12/123 Parkyn Parade, Mooloolaba, QLD, 4557 World class dive sites & first class service. Dive the HMAS Brisbane Wreck, Stunning Flinders Reef or Swim With Whales! www.sunreef.com.au

TASMANIA EAGLEHAWK DIVE CENTRE t: 0417013518 e: info@eaglehawkdive.com.au a: 178 Pirates Bay Drive, Eaglehawk Neck, TAS, 7179 We have world-class temperate water diving, with sites suitable for divers with skill levels from novice to advanced technical. www.eaglehawkdive.com.au

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SOUTH AUSTRALIA

VICTORIA

RODNEY FOX SHARK EXPEDITIONS

ACADEMY OF SCUBA

t: 08 8363 1788 e: expeditions@rodneyfox.com.au a: 107 Henley Beach Road, Mile End, SA, 5031 Great white sharks, SCUBA, Ocean Floor Cage, Surface Cage, Australian Sea Lions and our own wine all on the 32m liveaboard MV Rodney Fox! www.rodneyfox.com.au

t: +61422631110 e: info@academyofscuba.com.au a: 463 Browns Rd, Rye, Vic, 3941 Outstanding service on the Mornington peninsula. Gear hire and professionally fitted equipment sales. For Welcome to our diving family. www.academyofscuba.com.au

SCUBA COURSES PTY LTD

t: 03 5982 3432 e: info@extremewatersport.com.au a: 621/1623 Point Nepean Rd, Capel Sound, VIC 3940 Full sales, equipment servicing, training, rental, and Air fill services available onsite. On the water of below it you can’t go past Extreme Watersport! www.extremewatersport.com.au

t: 0407 580 580 e: simon@scubacourses.com.au a: 1/83, Mount Barker Road, Stirling, SA 5152 PADI Dive Centre, Open Water through to Assistant Instructor courses, and specialties. Tank fills and shop. PADI MSDT, experienced instructors. www.scubacourses.com.au

WESTERN AUSTRALIA BATAVIA COAST DIVE & WATERSPORTS t: 08 99214229 e: info@bcda.com.au a: Batavia Coast Dive, 118 Northwest Coastal HWY, Geraldton, WA 6530 We are a PADI 5 Star dive centre and THE local experts when it comes to oceanic adventures. www.bataviacoastdive.com.au

OCTOPUS GARDEN DIVE CHARTERS t: 0438925011 e: kimroyce@gateway.net.au a: Casuarina Boat Harbour, Bunbury, WA, 6230 Wreck & reef diving (small groups, min 2/max 11). Photographers paradise. Hire gear available. Prolific fish life. 10-18 metres. www.octopusgardendivecharters.com.au

SOUTHCOAST DIVING SUPPLIES t: 08 98417176 e: whale@divealbany.com.au a: 84b Serpentine Road, Albany, WA, 6330 Diving Albany means diving anything from wrecks to reef, plunging drop offs to awesome canyons with unbelievable colours and fishlife. www.divealbany.com.au

VICTORIA ALL ABOUT SCUBA t: (03) 9939 4913 e: info@allaboutscuba.com.au a: Unit 17/30-34 Maffra Street, Coolaroo, Victoria, 3048 A fully equipped SCUBA service centre with a passion for servicing so we can safely explore the underwater world! www.allaboutscuba.com.au

DIVE GEAR AUSTRALIA t: 03 9702 3694 e: sales@divegearaustralia.com.au a: 11/53-57 Rimfire Drive, Hallam, Victoria, 3803 DGA is a PADI 5 star training dive store with a huge range of scuba diving, snorkelling and spearfishing gear. www.divegearaustralia.com.au

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EXTREME WATERSPORT

OCEANSUITS t: 03 9702 4993 e: sales@oceansuits.com.au a: Unit 3, 101 Wedgewood road, Hallam, Victoria, 3803 Australia’s foremost authority on wetsuits and drysuits. Manufacture custom wetsuits. Miraculous repairs service all brands, styles for over 30 years. www.oceansuits.com.au

OCEAN DIVERS t: 03 9579 2600 e: info@oceandivers.com.au a: 223a East Boundary Road, Bentleigh East Ocean Divers is a PADI Five Star Instructor Development Centre and a Scubapro Platinum Dealer. www.oceandivers.com.au

SCUBA CULTURE PTY LTD t: 03 9808 0033 e: info@scubaculture.com.au a: 117 Highbury Road, Burwood, Victoria 3125 Full service dive shop providing equipment sales, service, hire, training, dive club, dive travel and air/ nitrox fills. www.scubaculture.com.au

AUCKLAND DIVING ACADEMY LTD (AUCKLAND SCUBA) t: +64 9478 2814 e: info@aucklandscuba.co.nz a: 49B Arrenway Drive, Auckland 5* PADI centre, beginner to Instructor courses (student loan approved), quality equipment retail, rebreathers, scooters, dive trips, servicing, air fills. www.aucklandscuba.co.nz

GLOBAL DIVE t: +64 9920 5200 e: info@globaldive.net a: 132 Beaumont Street, Westhaven, Auckland, 1010, New Zealand NZ’s Premium Dive Store. Leaders in Training, Servicing and Travel. Home of Fourth Element, OMS, Shearwater, XDeep, Light&Motion, DUI, Cinebags. www.globaldive.net

KIWI DIVERS NZ LTD t: 09 426 9834 e: info@kiwiscubadivers.co.nz a: 8 Keith Hay Court, Silverdale, Auckland, New Zealand Air, Nitrox & Trimix fills. SSI & TDI Rec, Tech & Rebreather courses. 2 dive boats. Brands: Hollis, Oceanic, Zeagle, Atomic, Bare/Stahlsac service centre. www.kiwiscubadivers.co.nz

WAIHEKE DIVE & SNORKEL t: +64 9217 4892 e: info@waihekedive.com a: 110 Ocean View Road, Oneroa, Waiheke Island, Auckland, NZ, 1081 NZ’s most fun little dive shop! We’re your choice for online retail, diving & snorkeling adventures – just 35 mins from Auckland CBD! www.waihekedive.com

CANTERBURY NEW ZEALAND AUCKLAND AQUATECH t: +64 2156 3563 e: servicing1@yahoo.com a: 4 WOULDBANK Way, Welcome Bay Aquatech is a scuba service centre. We service scuba regulators / full face masks / oxygen regulators. Underwater Scooters. www.aquatech.kiwi.nz

DIVE DOCTOR t: +09 530 8117 e: info@divedoctor.co.nz a: 20R Sylvia Park Rd, Mt Wellington. (1 min off the M’way) Scuba servicing centre – all brands. Wide range of products and hard to find items instore and online. 300 Bar fills, NITROX, O2. Quality dive training. www.divedoctor.co.nz

DIVE HQ CHRISTCHURCH t: +64 3379 5804 e: sales@divehqscuba.co.nz a: 103 Durham Street South, Sydenham, Christchurch South Island’s Premium Dive Centre, Specialists in Scuba Diving, Spearfishing & Freediving. Brands: Hollis, Oceanic, Atomic, Zeagle, Beuchat, Bare & Rob Allen. www.divehqscuba.co.nz

MARLBOROUGH GO DIVE PACIFIC t: 0274 344 874 e: info@godivepacific.nz a: 66 Wellington Street, Picton, Marlborough, New Zealand Dive one of the biggest cruise ship wrecks in the world, the Mikhail Lermontov, suitable for recreational to advanced technical divers. www.godivepacific.co.nz

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NEW ZEALAND NORTHLAND DIVE NOW t: 09 438 1075 e: info@divenow.co.nz a: 41 Clyde St, Whangarei We’re Northland’s largest SCUBA, Spearfishing & Freedive retail store offering great deals on gear along with SCUBA and Freedive courses. www.divenow.co.nz

PAIHIA DIVE t: +64 9402 7551 e: info@divenz.com a: 7 Williams Rd, Paihia 0247, New Zealand We run daily trips to the Canterbury wreck, The Rainbow Warrior wreck and reef sites in the Bay of Islands. www.divenz.com

SUBAQUA DIVE CENTRE t: 09 988 9508 e: subaquadivecentrenz@gmail.com a: 108 Cameron Street, Whangarei, NZ Friendliest dive shop in town. Stocker of Hollis, Ratio Dive computers, Atomic Aquatics, Bare, Oceanic and Zeagle. www.facebook.com/subaquadivewhangarei

WAIKATO

SOUTHLAND

DIVE ZONE WHITIANGA

DESCEND NZ – MILFORD SOUND

t: +64 7867 1580 e: info@divethecoromandel.co.nz a: 10 Campbell Street, Whitianga 3510, New Zealand Dive charters, training, service and retail store. Many and varied dive spots. Beautiful coastal town location. Offshore islands & Marine Reserve. www.divezonewhitianga.co.nz

t: +64 (0)27 337 2363 e: info@descend.co.nz a: Deepwater Basin Milford Sound – bookings essential Dive in the majestic and unique Milford Sound where deepwater species such as black coral live in diveable depths. www.descend.co.nz

TAURANGA

WELLINGTON

DIVE ZONE TAURANGA

DIVE WELLINGTON

t: 0064 7578 4050 e: info@divezonetauranga.co.nz a: 1213 Cameron Rd, Tauranga, New Zealand Join our friendly crew for a great day out exploring the dive sites of the Bay of Plenty, you will be well looked after onboard our comfortable Dive Boat Ruku Moana. www.divezonetauranga.co.nz

t: 04 939 3483 e: dive@divewellington.co.nz a: 432 The Esplanade Island Bay, Wellington, New Zealand Wellington’s Padi 5 Star Centre, right across the road from Taputeranga Marine Reserve. Come and dive or snorkel with us. www.divewellington.co.nz

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TECH: TRUK LAGOON

SUPER SIPADAN

GREAT BARRIER REEF

SECOND IN THE SERIES ON WHY THIS MALAYSIAN DIVE ON THE THAILAND PHOTOGRAMMETRY BE SITE IS CONSIDERED TOTANTALISING GET INVOLVED GUIDE TO TRUK LAGOON WRECKS THE DIVING ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST AN INSIDER’S GUIDE ON HOW

DEBORAH DICKSON-SMITH DODGES WEATHER PATTERNS TO DIVE THE RIBBON REEFS

HOTSPOTS OF ‘THE LAND OF SMILES’

ECO-TOURISM LETS DIVERS GIVE SOMETHING BACK

TECH: TRUK LAGOON

PART THREE OF OUR REPORT ON A WRECK MAPPING PROJECT

ADRIAN STACEY ENCOUNTERS TURTLES, RAYS, SHARKS AND LOTS OF BIRDS

*All subscriptions auto-renew. Subscriptions can be managed online at www.scubadivermag.com.au. You can cancel at anytime before the subscription renews. No refunds offered if subscription is not cancelled before the renewal date.

DON SILCOCK LISTS HIS TOP 10 BIG ANIMAL DIVES AROUND THE WORLD RAPID BAY JETTY

DAN COLUMN

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GIANT CUTTLEFISH

MUSTARD’S MASTERCLASS

Q&A: MIKE MASON

ISSUE #44

ISSUE #43

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Photo provided by Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions


New Sunshine Coast grey nurse shark aggregation

A

new aggregation of the critically endangered grey nurse sharks is emerging on the Sunshine Coast, Queensland. These incredibly photogenic sharks are a real favourite among divers around the world for their fearsome look and placid nature. While little is known about their migratory patterns, what we do know is that from July – October an aggregation of up to 30 sharks are taking a particular liking to a popular dive site on the Gneerings Reef system located off Mooloolaba on the Sunshine Coast. The aptly named ‘Nurse Rock’ provides attractive gutters and bommies for the sharks and great vantage points for divers to observe and photograph the sharks. This dive site lays between two well-known aggregation sites already frequented by divers, one being the mighty Wolf Rock at Rainbow Beach and the other being Stradbroke Island’s Flat Rock. Sunreef has been diving Nurse Rock as a local reef site for many years, with the sharks being a bonus through winter months, although as the number of sharks frequenting the site grows every year, it is quickly becoming a major diver attraction offering the most accessible grey nurse shark dive in Queensland because of its short 15-minute boat trip. The aggregation at Nurse Rock primarily consists of the smaller, more-curious male sharks which make for an exhilarating dive with frequent close checks and a seemingly absent care for personal space. In recent years we have also observed more heavily pregnant female sharks congregating at the site. This is extremely exciting, as it may be an indicator that the sharks are making this a more-permanent part of their migration. With the knowledge that these sharks are critically endangered with less than 2,000 on the east coast and (for

© Ste Everington

the most part) are a mystery to science, Sunreef are active in efforts to ensure the protection of these sharks by collecting and submitting essential data such as numbers, size, gender, and condition of sharks on this aggregation. An action group of community and industry members was recently formed on the Sunshine Coast in efforts to provide the critically endangered species protection at this site. Nurse Rock is not currently considered a ‘Known Aggregation’ despite up to 30 sharks being documented at the site. Moreover, this site is subject to recreational fishing during the time, these sharks are aggregating there, and several sharks have been sighted with fishing injuries, some with hooks still attached. Sunreef is playing an active role with the action group through engaging local and federal members to assist in navigating the red tape involved in providing a marine protected area to a critically endangered species. Sunreef offers four trips per week to dive with sharks at Nurse Rock between July and October, where all divers can participate in citizen science and assist in the collection and reporting of crucial data. To view availability and book, visit: www.sunreef.com.au

WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU © Ste Everington




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