C
osts Rica is known in diving circles mainly for Cocos Island. But is Cocos Island all that Costa Rica has to offer? Of course, they are what immediately springs to mind when we think of diving in Costa Rica, but in these times of austerity, they are possibly not within most divers’ budgets (around $5,000 not including flights for a ten-day trip). Fortunately, Costa Rica has a lot more to offer than just Cocos Island, both under the water and on land. Costa Rica means ‘rich coast’, and Columbus gave it that name because he was struck by its lush vegetation and diverse wildlife. Sandwiched between Nicaragua and Panama, this Central America country has several distinct regions, with greatly differing climates and vegetation, from rainforests that stretch down to the shores (very Jurassic Park) to cloud forests in the mountains and grass plains in the low lands. The country is littered with volcanoes – well over 100. There are two distinct seasons - the rainy season from May to November, and the dry season from December to April. The only months I would recommend avoiding are September and October, as it can literally rain for weeks on end without respite. On some occasions there is so much rain that you can kayak down the main street in Playa Del Coco! The local currency is Colones, but most places accept US dollars. The best diving is considered to be on the Pacific Coast, mainly from either Drakes Bay in the south, where you have access to Cano Island, or the Gulf of Papagayo in the north, with the majority of the dive centres located in Playa del Coco (not to be confused with Isla del Coco) and the adjacent bays of Hermosa and Ocotal.
PLAYA DEL COCO
Playa Del Coco is a small fishing village built around a large bay with one main street leading down to the beach and several bars, clubs and restaurants along the way. At certain times of the day you can go down to the beach and watch the fishing boats unload the day’s catch, usually large mahi mahi in the hundreds. The easiest and quickest way to get to Playa del Coco is to get a flight into Liberia, the capital of the Guanacaste region, which is not to be confused with the African country of the same name. From Liberia airport, an hour-long taxi ride brings you to Playa del Coco. It is possible to fly into the capital city, San Jose, but then you will need to take a bus or taxi, which can take up to six hours. Accommodation ranges from backpacker low budget to five-star luxury. Most of the low- to mid-range accommodation can be found in the village, with the larger more-exclusive resorts to be found on the neighbouring beaches.
ABOVE THE WATER
Above the water, Costa Rica has plenty to offer. Surfers have been flocking here for years, enjoying the waves all down the Pacific coast. Close to Playa del Coco is the volcano Rincón de la Vieja, where you can go zip lining through the forest, tubing down the river and horse riding to the hot springs. Another popular volcano is Arenal. It is still active and at night you can see lava flowing down its slopes. The closest town is La Fortuna, and here you can arrange white-water rafting tours. You can visit the cloud forests at Monteverde or visit the picturesque Manuel Antonio National Park. Huge leatherbacks use Playa Naranjo on the Pacific coast or Tortuguero Beach on the Caribbean coast to lay their eggs.
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