SEABROOK
THE
SP KE SUMMER FALL 2021 ISSUE
Seabrook Builds Its Gateway
Welcoming a new addition to Washington’s oceanfront SKIMBOARDING | NEW RENTALS LOBBY | SKY ISLAND FARM | CHAINSAW CARVING
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SEABROOK
THE
SP KE
Publisher Casey Roloff
Mike Hrycko
Editor Wyatt Haupt Editorial graphic designer
Jacie Landeros
Marketing Manager
Lily Walsh
Subscriptions & distribution Leslie Bebich
SEABROOK, WASHINGTON 4275 SR 109Pacific Beach, WA 98571 (877) 779-9990 info@seabrookwa.com ©2021 T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021 3
Letter from Seabrook Welcome to the Spoke Magazine Summer/ Fall 2021!
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e started back in 2004 with an ambitious dream and a vision. Seventeen years later, the town continues to carry that ambition into every new endeavor. Our community here in town and all around Grays Harbor County continues to inspire us. The Spoke aims to collect all the great stories in Grays Harbor and the people who share our values on community, quality, and craftsmanship. We want to use this platform to highlight the side of our area that people who come to Seabrook might not see and we are honored to be a part of its future. This is a collection of stories that we hope will resonate with you and will foster a love of the rich history and promising future. Our area is made up of the pioneers and entrepreneurs who settled here all those years ago. The past, present, and future of our area carry their own importance in these stories. What we are doing here in Seabrook is nothing new, people have been building towns all throughout history. Our hope is that this time, place, and people can help create something magical on the Washington coast for everyone to enjoy. Thank you to the team behind Sound Publishing for helping make this happen, the collaboration was what brought this magazine to life. Another thank you to the team behind Seabrook’s marketing, Amy Potter, Heather Montag, and Jennifer Hansen. Their effort to share the stories from Seabrook and capture life here in Washington’s beach town is vital. Finally, a huge thank you to our owners, merchants, team members, guests, and visitors who have made our dreams a reality. We look forward to making Seabrook and our community partners an even better place to live, work, and play for years to come.
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Contents
20
FEATURES
ON THE WILD 6 SEABROOK BUILDS ITS GATEWAY 18 SKIMBOARDING WASHINGTON COAST 12 SEABROOK HOSPITALITY 20 CARVING OUT A NICHE TRAILER TO AWNING 14 FROM AND BEYOND 24 YELLOW ALERT SUSTAINABLE SUSTENANCE FOUR SEASONS OF FISHING ON 28 16 THE WILD WASHINGTON COAST 32 HEALING PROPERTY From an unknown to a booming beach town.
Skimboarding has become coastal culture.
Flourishes alongside town.
Seabrook Hospitality Finds Its Home.
Chainsaw artists create cooperative community. Effort to get yellow rope out of coastal waters. Sky Island Farm offers local organic food.
Highlights of family-friendly coast activity
Lavendar farm is therapeutic for its owner.
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Seabrook Builds Its Gateway STORY BY JENNIFER HANSEN RENDERINGS BY CINDY COX
From an unknown byway to a booming beach town, Seabrook has taken an exciting leap expanding shopping, dining, and living on the rugged Washington coast 6 T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021
Seabrook Builds Its Gateway
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eabrook started with a handful of homes, a bold town plan, and an even bolder dream nestled in the evergreens along the Washington coast. Over the last few years, the town center has expanded to include more shopping and dining spaces, outdoor centers, and urban accommodations. Each step in the process has been leading up to the gateway block — Pacific Landing. “Seabrook is in that teenager phase,” illustrated Town Founder Casey Roloff. “We’re not just a small town anymore and now we’re taking some big steps towards the final plan.” T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021 7
Seabrook Builds Its Gateway.
Since Seabrook broke ground, it’s purpose has always been to become a true town. A dense urban environment is a key part of that story. Creating a town that can sustain a condensed urban center takes decades to naturally build and Seabrook has finally reached that tipping point.
Welcoming A New Addition Meet the Pacific Landing, the first luxury oceanfront residences on the Washington coast. The scale of the building allows for impressive views that don’t compare to anything else on the coast. Residences are 30 feet in the air, sitting on a 200-foot bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. You can see haystacks to the north, rolling cliffs to the south, and Olympic mountains to the east. Not to mention the elevated private amenities that are offered to those who call it home. A private gym, a rooftop terrace, and a private entrance to Seabrook’s fine dining restaurant are just to name a few. “We’ve never had luxury, oceanfront living that is literally steps away from the energy of our town center,” said Holly Emerson, Seabrook Real Estate’s Designated Broker.
Seabrook Builds Its Gateway.
The current gateway to the town is the South Market Street building, which was completed earlier this summer. The pedestrian level is home to Seabrook Hospitality’s vacation rentals lobby, where the guest services and concierge welcome you. On the same floor, on the other side of the building, is the Seabrook Real Estate Office. The two stories above are the airy lofts of Seabrook’s first condominium-style residences, the South Market Street Lofts. This transitory building
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seamlessly ties in the existing retail block that sits higher in town down to Pacific Landing and the coastline.
Designing A Timeless Urban Center Years of careful planning have paid off with a landmark building that compliments the town plan while framing coastal views. Pacific Landing’s placement is part of the angled main street design that allows for ocean views that carry through
main street. “Creating a collection of townhome-styled buildings that are cohesive with the town center while adding oceanfront views was not an easy task. We pulled from many timeless design concepts in our favorite towns and cities,” noted Stephen Poulakos, Director of Town Planning. Stephen recalls marveling at San Francisco’s sloping townhomes that each carry their own views of the bay. On the other side of the country, towns like Seaside and Rosemary Beach in Florida have embraced the principles of New Urbanism, which uses a wide plethora of building types, heights and purposes. Each is marveled for its stunning urban design. Close to home, the Emerald City of Seattle uses downhill sloping retail to lead people to popular attractions like Pike Place Market and the piers. Pacific Northwest towns like Port Townsend, La Conner and Astoria follow these design principles. The staggered buildings have shaped the neighborhoods and created timeless vistas that draw people to the water.
Seabrook Builds Its Gateway.
Retail That Hugs The Coastline Unlike anywhere else on the Wasington coast, Seabrook will have oceanfront retail that welcomes guests into the town. “Beautiful homes and a stretch of large open beach are great, but a town
needs a strong town center. Seabrook will be anchored by its growing retail and dining,” explained Casey. Standing at the gateway of the town center along the Hidden Coast Scenic Byway will be a two-story, upscale restaurant joining Seabrook’s culinary scene. This is a natural addition to the town, with thousands of guests
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and homeowners looking for an environment to play, shop and dine. Featuring large arched windows, this fine dining restaurant offers unimpeded ocean views with two-level seating. “The perfect dining experience is elevated, local food in a beautiful setting,” described Casey, “with outdoor dining that hugs the boardwalk, the restaurant will celebrate ocean and sunset views while soaking in the energy of the coastline.” Continuing up the hill from the restaurant will be additional retail spaces. Stephen would love to see a florist, jewelry store, and an art gallery in addition to a specialty shoe store. “A shoe store would be great. Here on the coast you need everything from rain boots and hiking boots, to beach sandals, to something nice for a night out,” mentioned Stephen. These retail spaces are expanding upon Market Street’s retail growth. As you stroll up to the center of town, you’ll find the first block of established retail that joined the town center in 2018. This block hosts colorful stores offering clothing, toys, books and souvenirs. “What makes a town really shine is a vibrant town center with curated dining and shopping that cater to the customer experience. Pacific Landing will elevate life here in Seabrook providing a front row seat on the ocean, just steps away from town,” mentioned Casey.
Luxury Oceanfront Residences Above the oceanfront restaurant and retail shops will be Seabrook’s first luxury oceanfront residences with private amenities. The 35 new residences combine ease of ownership with emphasized views of the ocean and Market Street. The Seabrook Real Estate Team sees this as a perfect place for those who want to be connected to the ocean, while still having the town center at their doorstep. “Later this year we will release Seabrook’s first luxury, serviced oceanfront residences. Located at the town’s gateway, it will offer the best of all worlds,” revealed Holly.
One Step Closer To The Complete Story Pacific Landing is not the final step in Seabrook’s development, but an important milestone in the evolution of the town. Spanning almost two decades, Seabrook has patiently built a town that meets the needs of the people. When a town is built with a focus on community, it creates people who love where they live. Just over 17 years ago, Casey Roloff broke ground with the goal to create a purpose-built, walkable town that prioritized community. Today, the bustling town center, with sounds of laughter and crashing waves and the countless memories made are a testament to his vision. Pacific Landing, in another 17 years from now, will continue to serve as the gateway to Seabroo, welcoming all who wish to enjoy Washington’s Beach Town. T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021 11
Seabrook Hospitality flourishes alongside town S TO RY BY A M Y P OT T E R • P H OTO S BY F OX E M E R S O N
Seabrook Cottage Rentals new lobby.
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eople near and far come to enjoy the beach homes, expanding town amenities, and the breathtaking Pacific Ocean and natural surroundings in Seabrook. Seabrook Hospitality has flourished alongside the town, bringing with it new and exciting offerings that enhance the resort-style aspects of staying in Seabrook. The newest service that has taken off since its debut is concierge services. Whether it is assisting a guest or resident, Seabrook’s concierge services are available to complement a stay from pre-arrival to the day of departure and beyond. 12 T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021
Hospitality Concierge Jeff Wilson brings new service to life Jeff Wilson, Seabrook Hospitality’s Concierge, has brought this new service to life with his years of experience in event coordinating and exceptional clientele relations. As concierge, Jeff is available to help with questions and local recommendations, along with making arrangements for outings or deliverables from merchants throughout the town. With new services constantly being added, guests and residents are currently able to request transportation, grocery delivery, golfing, to-go painting kits, care detailing, child care, and more through concierge services. A new service addition that is sure to enthrall outdoor fanatics is guided fishing trips year-round. Whether fishermen are looking to test their luck on a river, lake or the ocean, Jeff works with guests to schedule their dream fishing trip — complete with Jeff’s tips and tricks as an avid fisherman himself.
More
To make the most of the Seabrook experience, stop by to see Jeff at Seabrook Hospitality’s vacation rentals lobby or message concierge@seabrookwa.com for more information.
Jeff Wilson is Seabrook Hospitality’s Concierge.
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From Trailer To Awning and Beyond S TO RY BY H E AT H E R M O N TAG • P H OTO S P R OV I D E D BY S E A B R O O K
Seabrook’s Cottage Rentals LLC, now called Seabrook Hospitality, started to manage the vacation rentals from their new lobby on Market Street.
Almost 20 Years Later, Seabrook Hospitality Finds Its Home
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n the beginning, Seabrook was a mass of land, unmanaged and underappreciated, a hidden place that held promise and opportunity. What started in 2004 with breaking ground and hauling dirt became implementation of the vision from Seabrook Town Founders, Casey and Laura Roloff. About 25 homes later in 2007, as with all startups, Seabrook Cottage Rentals conducted operations out of a makeshift trailer. Except laundry. The small housekeeping
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team did laundry in each individual home, and then advanced to just one home near North Alderwood District. Casey and his team really never wanted Seabrook to be in the business of renting homes. However, this “little engine,” under the Seabrook LLC umbrella, kept bringing the numbers year after year — from a financial standpoint, Cottage Rentals was compounding. After triumphing over the Great Recession of 2007-09, also known as the “subprime mortgage crisis,” Seabrook
Cottage Rentals upgraded from the makeshift trailer to a doublewide with a faux exterior and a wraparound deck on Front Street. During this era, Seabrook Cottage Rentals adapted to the increase in homes and guests to grow and learn during the emergence of Airbnb and similar vacation rental companies. They continued to exceed even heightened expectations, basically doing everything in-house effectively through trial and error. In early May 2021, Seabrook’s Cottage Rentals LLC, now called Seabrook Hospitality, started to manage the vacation rentals from their new lobby on Market Street. Their lobby shares the same building with Seabrook’s Sales Team and the town’s first condo-style residence, the South Market Street Lofts. This Seabrook Vacation Rentals and Sales Office is open and welcoming to all who visit Seabrook. The resort-striped awning is fast becoming the location descriptor, “Just look for the awning.” As Seabrook expands and diversifies to accommodate its acclaim as Washington’s Beach Town, the trailer and double-wide serve as DNA of “where” the town is from, and inspiration for “where” the town is going.
Seabrook Cottage Rentals has adapted to the increase in homes and guests to grow and learn during the emergence of Airbnb and similar vacation rental companies.
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Four seasons of
fishing on the wild Washington coast S TO RY BY J E N N I F E R H A N S E N • P H OTO S P R OV I D E D BY S E A B R O O K
A trio of guests are all smiles as they hold up fish they caught off the Washington coast.
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t’s a classic photo that you’ll find proudly displayed on a mantle, in a study, or on a bedside table. A family with smiles stretched ear to ear, sunkissed cheeks, and a fish caught just minutes before. Jeff Wilson doesn’t have one of these photos, he has several. As Seabrook’s new concierge, Jeff is the official in-the-know guy for things to do on your trip to the coast. He has helped plan numerous weddings, group getaways, and romantic nights for guests in town. But in his free time, there’s a good chance that you’ll find
him casting a line and with a cooler full of fish. Jeff has always enjoyed fishing, but it wasn’t until his move to Seabrook that his passion really took off. “I went on a couple guided fishing trips around Grays Harbor and each time I learned something new about the area. A secret fishing hole, what weights and lures to use, which bait to use depending on the season. After you understand that, you do a lot less fishing and a lot more catching.” When it comes to guides, there’s one company that Jeff always recommends. Washington State Fishing Guides (WSFG) offers guided trips from the
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rivers of Southern Washington all the way to the tip of the Northern Olympic Peninsula. “I first met Mike from WSFG on the lake. That day, the fish just didn’t seem to be biting,” Jeff recalls. “Mike asked if he could cast five lines and see if he could catch anything. Of course, he pulled out fish after fish. I got to talking to him and he gave me some of his home cured bait to use. After he left, I gave it a try and sure enough I caught my first fish of the day. I’ve been fishing with him ever since.” Taking a guided trip takes the hassle out of fishing. No poles, bait, or
Seabrook Concierge Jeff Wilson highlights his favorite family-friendly activity to do on the coast insider knowledge needed. The guides can even gut, scale, and clean for you so all you have to do is bring your catch home to enjoy. Jeff likes to smoke his fish and it isn’t uncommon to smell the aroma of smoked trout or salmon emanating from his home. For those without a smoker, you can’t go wrong cooking you catch in a cast iron with a little butter and garlic. That’s Mike’s tried and true way of making a delicious dinner. Capture that quintessential fishing photo for your mantle during your trip to Seabrook. “Everyone wants that iconic fishing photo. Seabrook is a special place that creates memories for so many people. I can’t think of any place better to make that fishing day a reality,” he said. Seabrook’s Concierge is located in Guest Service’s new lobby at 204 Market St. Stop on by and ask Jeff about what to do during your stay. He won’t shy away from spilling all the secrets on the best activities, dining, and shopping around. And yes, he’ll even share his favorite fishing holes.
Carter Wilson, son of Seabrook Hospitality’s Concierge Jeff Wilson, shows off his catch of the day.
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Skimboarding on the Wild Washington Coast
STORY BY JENNIFER HANSEN
JUAN ANTONIO HERNANDEZ / SPOKE
LEFT: Skimboarding originated in the beach communities of California.. PHOTO PROVIDED BY SEABROOKE
RIGHT: A pair of skimboarders ride on a stretch of water at the beach in Seabrook.
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How a niche sport has become an integral part of Seabrook’s coastal culture
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hen it comes to having fun in the water, there is no shortage of ways to have fun. On a sunny summer’s day, you’ll spot surfers catching waves, families building sand castles on the shore, and skimboarders skimming any stretch of water they can find. The sport originated with surfing in the beach communities of California. As surfing became more popular among the masses, skimboarding was appreciated in niche communities along the Pacific Northwest and Canada. You don’t need the perfect wave or wind conditions to enjoy the sport. When the tide is too low to catch a wave, or it’s a foggy morning, or you happen upon a blue-sky day, you can skimboard. All you need is a little bit of water and a board. Skimboards have a unique shape. The design carried over the hardwood core and waxed exterior of a surfboard, while utilizing a more maneuverable, compact shape like a skateboard. Once you have your board, all you need to do is run across the water, thow the board down, hop on, and glide. Just like running and sliding on hardwood floors in your socks, “Risky Business” style. For those looking to get their feet wet (literally), a visit to Buck’s Northwest is in order. Popular for bike rentals, outdoor equipment, and guided tours, Buck’s is the place to go for adventure. There you can check out a rental for a day, buy your very own board, or sign up for a lesson. For families with kids, skimboarding is the perfect segway into surfing. Kids can build confidence and practice footwork in the skimpool before heading down to the beach to play around.
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Carving out a niche
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North Beach chainsaw artists create cooperative community
S TO RY BY K AT B RYA N T • P H OTO S BY PAT R I C I A J O L L I M O R E
very February, rain or shine, chain saw carvers from all over gather in Ocean City to enjoy camaraderie, create art and make a difference. At the Burning Bear festival, chain saws roar for three days as visitors witness the transformation of raw logs and planks into everything from soaring eagles to furniture to, yes, bears. The finished pieces are auctioned off with the proceeds usually going to a designated local beneficiary, such as the Green Lantern Lunch Program. Oh, and let’s not forget the signature giant bear carved by the festival participants, which becomes the centerpiece of a
bonfire during Saturday evening’s revelry. The public is invited to join the carvers that night for a potluck dinner around the bonfire, plus karaoke. The remains of the 2018 bear stand on the street corner in front of Ocean City Marketplace, owned by Ivan and Mona Hass. They host this winter festival — and a few others like it during the summer season — every year on their property. “They come and carve, and we feed ’em and try to give ’em a place to stay — as many as we can,” says Ivan, a carver himself. “We try to make it so it doesn’t cost them any money.”
The remains of the 10th annual Burning Bear bonfire from 2018. 20 T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021
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Photographer and tech guru Chris Brunstad has been documenting these events for a year and a half, and he’s found the carving community to be almost overwhelmingly warm, inviting and accepting. “It’s almost like visiting family rather than going to an event,” he says. “It’s this huge gathering of people who love doing what they do, which is creating beautiful things out of raw elements. There’s just something about it that’s enchanting.” Mona runs the Marketplace, which offers chain saw art, curios and other gift-type items. “I don’t do carvings,” she says, laughing. “I just sell it for ’em and feed ’em!” Burning Bear was founded 13 years ago by Ivan and fellow carver Steve Backus, who was raised in Humptulips but now lives on Whidbey Island. His brother Boaz, who now lives in Spokane, travels back here to act as auctioneer every year. “It’s just been getting bigger and bigger,” says Ivan. “Every year we get more carvers coming, more people.” They hosted almost 20 artists in 2020, coming from as far away as Kansas. And for the first time, a prize was awarded: The carver with the highest dollar amount in sales for the weekend received a new chainsaw. There’s a Pacific Northwest event circuit for chain saw artists, but there’s no complete listing of events printed anywhere. “We don’t have a list. They just know,” laughs Mona. That’s just a hint as to how tightly knit the carving community is. In a sense, it’s a family affair. Steve and Boaz’s mother, Judy McVay, is the chain saw artist who created the Ocean City Marketplace sign, the Welcome to Ocean Shores sign and many others along the Coast. And two prolific North Beach carvers became established here with some help from within that community.
Anthony Robinson Anthony Robinson lives and carves in Copalis Crossing. He has always worked with wood in some form or another, but didn’t pick up a chain saw until he was 40. He was living in Westport in 2012, carving small pieces of wood to make jewelry to sell, and he decided to make a display stand for it. “I had a piece of driftwood, so I carved a wolf head and some other stuff on it using different tools,” he says. “I was having a blast. I was fired up!” At that point, he was inspired to buy a chain saw and take up the art. He took his shiny new tool to the beach and tried to carve a wolf out of driftwood. His first attempt fell flat, so he tried a fish. And so it went for many months. “Those were some lean times,” he laughs. He says he shared space with Tokeland carvers Al Holbrook and Jeffro Uitto for a while, living on the Shoalwater Tribe’s 75-cent lunches. (This was before Jeffro shifted gears and hit it big with his elaborate driftwood creations. Al has since moved to Arizona.) And they spent a lot of their time dragging wood from the beach to their work area. When Al took Anthony to his first Burning Bear festival and introduced him to Ivan and Mona, he was blown away by the amount of wood they had on their property just waiting to become art. Ivan invited him to carve there. And so, for the next couple of years, Anthony was able to practice his craft at Ocean City Marketplace. He then moved 22 T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021
Carver Anthony Robinson shows off the smallest of his chain saws, which measures 4 inches.
into his current home/studio in Copalis Crossing, where he built his own inventory of logs and slabs to work with. Today, as proprietor of Native Beach Accessories, he’s making a good living doing what he loves. His secret: “It’s more letting those pieces of wood talk to you, rather than you talking to them — it’s an important balance.” He now owns a wide array of chain saws, from 4-inch to 66-inch blades. He has several commissioned pieces on a to-do list. And he’s entered a partnership with Ocean Shores artist Carol Frances called Wood We Dream, in which he carves sculptures and Carol details them with her elaborate wood-burning designs. Another current project is creating redwood siding for a pair of artist friends in Pacific Beach. Stephen and Karin Phifer recently purchased an old grocery store there and are restoring the building to house their new workspace and gallery. “I’m just excited because I want to see people in our art form or any genre succeed,” Anthony says. “The community will grow stronger faster through a group of minds working together.” His long-term dream is to buy a large property where he can stockpile raw wood and build small cabins and workspaces for up-and-coming artists to live and carve together. “If you keep your ego out of it and enjoy life and the blessings that it shares, and add a little mad-scientist marketing, you can literally create something and have a place for everybody,” he says.
Brandon Levesque Brandon Levesque got “bit by the carving bug” at an event in Gridley, California, about 15 years ago. Brandon was observing a quick carve — when artists are given an hour or so to create whatever they can. He watched, transfixed, as a chainsaw artist transformed a 6-foot-tall
chunk of raw wood into a soaring eagle with detailed feathers. He says Steve and Boaz Backus were there that day, and Steve saw the look in his eye. “You’ve been bit, haven’t you?” Brandon recalls him saying. “And I sure in the heck was.” He thought about carving and talked about carving for a long time after that day. Finally, he says, his wife had to give him a little push to follow through. He bought his first carving saw and started learning the art. Years later, he and his family moved to Montana. He’d been there about nine years when he drove out to Idaho to participate in a show. Business was not as brisk there as he’d hoped, so he decided to try conducting a roadside sale on his way home. Another carver pulled up next to him at the spot he’d chosen, and they talked shop for a while. The other man complimented Brandon on his work, and showed him an intricate piece of art he had created with some large intertwined tree roots. As it turned out, the other carver was familiar with the Washington circuit. As
Brandon bemoaned the harsh winters in Montana, he told Brandon about Ocean City’s milder climate — and about the Hasses. And so, in 2016, Brandon traveled to the Washington coast to participate in the Labor Day carve at Ocean City Marketplace. When he arrived, exhausted from his two-day drive, the first person he saw was Boaz — standing on top of a woodpile in the pouring rain. “After all those years … my mouth just dropped open,” he says. “I felt like I’d come full circle.” He also met Ivan, Mona and Anthony for the first time — and within a couple of weeks, Anthony had smoothed the way for Brandon to move into the vacant house next door to his own in Copalis Crossing. For the next several months, Brandon split his time between living in Montana (where his wife and three kids still were) and at Anthony’s place (where he worked on fixing up the house next door). Once it was ready, he moved in there with his family in April 2017. He’s been living there ever since, fully engaged in doing what he loves
under the business name BAD Yard Art. Little bears and trees are his bread and butter, though he also carves plenty of other figures. “It’s not like any other job, really,” he points out. “Not many people will go to work every day for an unknown wage to be paid at an unknown time.” As next-door neighbors, he and Anthony reap some mutual benefits — including having a large combined display of inventory spread out across their front yards. “When folks drive by, they can’t help but notice this quarter-mile stretch of art,” he smiles. And even after 15 years in the business, he’s still learning. “Everybody’s got something to teach,” he says. “Doesn’t matter how long you’ve been doing it.” Editor’s note: This story was originally published in the Spring 2020 edition of Washington Coast Magazine. Timeline references have been updated where necessary.
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YELLOW
ALERT Massive joint effort seeks to get yellow rope out of coastal waters
From left, Jill Williams, Liz Schotman and Alexa Brown hold up rope they found at Grayland Beach.
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ast time you visited Washington’s beaches, you probably noticed at least a few segments of yellow rope. They’re all over the place — partially buried in sand, tangled up in seaweed clumps, even floating in on the tide. They are remnants of the “longline” method of growing oysters, which is used by many farmers in Washington. But the rope is made of a
KAT BRYANT / SPOKE
STORY BY K AT BRYANT
nonbiodegradable plastic, so it never goes away. “Plastic doesn’t break down in the ocean — it photodegrades, breaking into tiny pieces that never go away,” said Lee First, leader of the Twin Harbors Waterkeeper program. “Small plastic bits look like food to marine critters, and as the bits get eaten, plastic bioaccumulates in the food chain.” Birds also will eat the rope filaments,
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according to James Roubal, marine debris program coordinator for the National Marine Sanctuary Foundation and Washington CoastSavers. “When animals are eating plastics and ropes, they think they’re getting full because they have a lot in their bellies,” he said. “But there’s no nutrients in it, and they essentially can starve. So ingestion is the biggest problem.”
Yellow rope fragments litter the coastline from Oregon all the way up to British Columbia, even in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The experts say they all originated in Washington, because this is the only place on the Pacific Coast where the longline method is used. “Each piece of rope is three strands, and each strand is like 29 smaller filaments,” said First. “As they fray, they come closer to breaking down into microplastics — and eventually, those can become part of the meat of oysters, razor clams and fish.” In the past year, a concentrated movement has begun to not only clear the old “legacy” ropes from the beaches, but also stop new ones from being released into the environment. The joint effort — organized primarily by the Waterkeeper organization and John Shaw of the Westport-South Beach Historical Society — includes environmental groups, marine researchers, beachcombers and the oyster farmers themselves.
Origins Oyster farms often are set up in estuaries — the point where a river empties into an ocean or harbor. The ones that use longlines set stakes in an area where the water will cover them at high tide, but leave them dry at low tide. Then they string yellow rope between the stakes, suspended 18 to 24 inches above the mud. Clusters of “mother” oysters — shells that were shucked and cleaned out more than a year earlier — are seeded with oyster larvae and woven into the yellow rope before it is strung along the stakes. (This is why you see massive piles of shells at oyster farms; they’re waiting to be recycled.) The elevation keeps the growing babies out of reach of parasites that live in the mud. When the oysters are fully grown, the longlines are cut from the stakes and loaded onto barges to be transported to the site where the oysters will be harvested. During this process, innumerable segments of rope have been left behind through the years. And later, as the mother oysters are removed from the longlines, fragments often remain entangled in the shells. “Facilities for decades have
KAT BRYANT / SPOKE
Yellow rope comes from oyster farms along the Washington Coast. A coalition of farmers, environmental groups and community members is working to clear it from the beaches permanently.
hand-picked that yellow rope out of the clusters that are coming out of the plant,” said Miranda Ries, director of regulatory affairs for the aquaculture division of Pacific Seafood. “However, because it’s being done by humans — and sometimes in very large volumes — not all of those pieces of rope are being collected.” Then, while the shells are piled up outdoors awaiting future reuse, those bits can loosen in the rain and wind; and later, when the shells are recycled, those fragments are lost into the estuary. Because it floats, the rope rides the tide out to sea, and then, eventually, back to the coastline.
Options For years, the Westport-South Beach Historical Society has organized volunteer “Comb and Clean” events around king tides and major holidays to clear trash and flotsam from the beaches south of Grays Harbor. In fall 2019, Shaw became concerned about the amount of yellow rope he was seeing among the debris. In January 2020, he decided to go straight to the source to see what could be done about it. He set up a meeting to discuss his
concerns with leaders of the Pacific Coast Shellfish Growers Association and the Willapa Grays Harbor Oyster Growers Association. He said both industry groups quickly committed to finding new ways to stop the rope segments from being released into the environment. “The growers care deeply about the environment where they work. And when they are alerted to an issue or practice that is something that can be improved upon, they’re ready to make a difference and change that,” said Margaret Pilaro, director of the PCSGA. Not long after that initial meeting, the Twin Harbors Waterkeepers, CoastSavers and Grays Harbor Stream Team joined the effort as environmental advocates. They have taken things to the next level by not only organizing beach cleanups, but also collecting data on the amount of yellow rope picked up. “I have found the key is to push for the goal, but not to allow the issue to make adversaries of those involved when progress can be achieved,” said Shaw.
Overhauls Sweeping changes have already
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MIRANDA RIES / SPOKE
Baby oysters are grown on clusters of large “mother” shells on yellow rope longlines. This batch is near the middle of its growth cycle.
been made in the oyster farming industry, with more in the works. Pilaro said PCSGA has developed a code of best practices for its members to address the yellow rope issue. Among the suggested practices: • Make sure crews are aware that it’s not acceptable to ignore the issue. • Remove yellow rope from piles of shell meant to be recycled. • Find different ways of cutting longline to reduce fragments. • Don’t transport oysters that have fragments attached. oysters that have fragments attached “It’s all voluntary. The association leadership has made the decision to not be an authoritative regulating body,” she said. “But I think our folks really understand that when these yellow ropes are presented in the community, it shows poorly on everybody. So they are willing to work together and try to figure out how to get it out just as soon as possible.” Pilaro noted that the oyster industry has been active in Washington for more than a century, and most of PCSGA’s members have been in the business for multiple generations. “What we’ve seen over the last 100 years is an evolution for how they grow shellfish and how it gets to market, and we will continue to see that,” she said. “They are still innovating and wanting
to be present.” One large company that’s making strides in the yellow rope reduction effort is Pacific Seafood, which is based in Oregon but has several operations in Washington and elsewhere. “We needed to do a better job protecting the estuary and the waters that we depend on to grow a healthy, world-class product,” said Ries, who describes herself as a fourth-generation shellfish woman. “So I challenged my management team at the hatcheries, the farms and the processing facility, saying: What can we do? And they all had different ideas.” Labor was a major limitation given the volume of the problem, she said. So some of the company’s engineers came up with an automated solution: the “Cluster Buster” machine. “Essentially, this mechanism takes shells that are being conveyed out of processing facilities, and it provides enough torque on that cluster of shells to break away the material that’s holding that rope to the shell,” said Ries. “And then we have two, three, four folks standing out there collecting these pieces of rope. And that is their sole job: They are removing rope as the shell is being conveyed to the back of the truck.” In addition, she said, the company has assigned specific personnel to go through its oyster piles on
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JILL WILLIAMS
Twin Harbors Waterkeeper Lee First shows off her “haul” after a January clean-up at Washaway Beach.
search-and-destroy missions to eliminate any yellow rope fragments that were missed previously. They’ve also taken other measures, including having teenage interns conduct weekend beach cleanups. Ries’ next project is overseeing development of a mobile Cluster Buster that could get into the shell piles to do its thing. “To me, the only acceptable outcome is 100% removal of yellow rope,” she said.
Outings Counting ropes at regular intervals along specific sections of beach will help researchers determine where they accumulate, said First. “We’ve talked to local scientists, made a plan, created data sheets and protocols,” she said. Roubal said the coalition was working in January to secure a National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration marine debris grant to fund their efforts to monitor the presence of yellow rope on the coastline. First and several others now conduct regular beach walks at various locations to collect and count yellow rope segments. On a chilly, overcast day just before Christmas 2020, their small group converged on Grayland Beach. In addition to First and Shaw, the Dec. 19, 2020, outing included Alexa
KAT BRYANT / SPOKE
Liz Schotman of the Surfrider Foundation picks up a segment of yellow rope during a Dec. 19 clean-up at Grayland Beach.
Brown, coordinator of the Grays Harbor Stream Team; Liz Schotman, Washington regional manager for the Surfrider Foundation; and Jill Williams, vice chairwoman of Surfrider’s
Olympia chapter. “Normally this would be a much larger group,” said Williams. “Our people in Olympia would make a weekend of it. But in this weather,” she shrugged. With large mesh bags in hand, the five enthusiastic volunteers spread out from the Warrenton Cannery Road beach entrance at 10 a.m. By late afternoon, they had picked up various chunks of Styrofoam, several plastic and glass bottles, miscellaneous other bits of marine debris — and 3,217 segments of yellow rope. First would like to see this kind of data collection continue for at least five years to monitor the hoped-for decrease. “I think it’s going to take a long time to fix this, because the ropes go out into the ocean and float around before coming back — and there’s a lot of them,” said First. “Even if (the growers) take steps to fix it now and not put any more ropes out in the tidelands, there’s still going to be these legacy ropes floating in for years.”
Opportunities Anyone interested in helping to collect yellow rope data may contact Alexa Brown, the Grays Harbor Stream Team coordinator, at caddisflyconsultingllc@gmail.com or 253-225-0457. She can provide tools and instructions for the project. But you don’t have to be an official part of the project to contribute to the overall goal. The next time you visit the beach, if you notice some yellow ropes, just pick them up and drop them in your pocket or beachcombing bag for disposal. “I find this to be a really satisfying project. Solving the problem of ocean plastic is overwhelming because a lot of it comes from Asia after it floats in the ocean for years and years,” said First. “But (yellow rope) is a local problem that we can solve.” Editor’s note: This story was originally published in the Spring 2021 edition of Washington Coast Magazine.
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Sustainable sustenance SKY ISLAND FARM OFFERS LOCAL ORGANIC FOOD AND EDUCATION STORY BY K AT BRYANT
A
n award-winning organic farmer and his family are doing their part to bolster food security in Grays Harbor County. Bil Thorn and his wife, Kate Harwell, operate Sky Island Farm in Humptulips. Their two teenage children help them manage the 15-acre parcel, where they grow vegetables, fruits, herbs and even flowers. The couple started out as homesteaders in Northern California, determined to subsist as much as possible off their land — growing herbs and vegetables, keeping chickens for eggs and meat, making butter and cheese from goat milk, and so on. “From there, we wanted to be able to make a living in this way, so we figured providing food would be a good thing to do,” says Thorn. In 2013, they moved to the Humptulips property. The house was a fixer-upper (“still is,” laughs Thorn), so making it livable was their top priority. They had to make extensive structural repairs and replace a lot of wiring. Once their home was set up, they could focus on the land. Initially, they thought they’d make a go of dairy farming. They built up a herd of 40 goats, but buying the required equipment would have forced them to start those operations already deep in debt; so they went to Plan B. “We both have a really substantial gardening background, so we figured vegetables would be a good thing to get into,” says Thorn. “And we have virtually no debt, other than the mortgage. We’ve built everything here ourselves.” The first few years were extremely lean, with him working extra jobs to supplement their income. “But we make a living now from this farm solely,” he says proudly. “If you want something bad enough, it’s worth a few
KAT BRYANT / SPOKE
Bil Thorn and Kate Harwell, married 18 years, run Sky Island Farm with their two teen-aged children and occasional volunteer help.
years of sacrifice.” They have cleared trees from several areas to plant crops ranging from broccoli to blackberries – with more to come. “Every year we’re slowly expanding, making more space for things,” says Harwell. “One of the keys is being patient. We’ve just built as we could
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afford it.” As for the livestock, they’re now down to two goats plus two sheep — and those are kept not for their milk or their wool, but rather as “pets and lawn mowers,” Harwell laughs.
Forming an alliance Once they had established their initial crop beds, Thorn and Harwell
set about creating a CSA (community-supported agriculture). Under this model, local households pay $425 to secure a share of the farm’s harvest for its 17-week summer season. “People invest in the spring, and then we deliver $25 worth of vegetables every week for four months,” says Harwell. “We try to offer a good variety and let people choose what they want, or they can just let us choose.” And they do actually deliver weekly packages of produce to every customer, from South Aberdeen to Elma to Lake Quinault. “We did that right out of the gate, too” — long before the pandemic hit, says Thorn. “Letting people choose, buying online, delivering to your home — these were things we had already incorporated,” says Harwell. “Now we see a ton of small farms doing these things because of COVID.” Unlike most CSAs, Sky Island is flexible about allowing partial payments over time, or even using a sliding scale for those in need. “We know this is a problem with the CSA business model: People that don’t
have as much money typically don’t have access to these things,” says Thorn. “So we took that into account and tried to make it so anyone could afford it.” They’ve even bartered with some clients — for example, trading a CSA membership for hand-stitched jackets with the farm’s logo on them. “That’s really important to us, just to make sure people have access to the produce,” says Thorn. “We don’t want price to be a barrier at all.” For a couple of years before the pandemic, the farm’s income was split pretty evenly between the CSA and wholesaling. But they decided to focus almost entirely on the CSA in 2020, for several reasons. Forgoing wholesale would mean less physical contact during the pandemic, which seemed prudent. Also, many restaurants were either closing or making cutbacks, so that revenue stream became unreliable for them. And then there was the surge in demand from the community. About 150 families signed up for the CSA last season — more than twice the previous year’s total of 70. The couple attribute
KATE HARWELL
Daughter Anna Thorn, 14, helps harvest red lettuce.
the jump largely to food insecurity resulting from the pandemic. “The CSA model was kind of waning. CSAs were not the ‘thing’ that
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they were five, 10, 15 years ago,” says Harwell. “But COVID really reignited that interest in local food.”
Water worries Expansion has been slow but steady for Sky Island. “This whole place has been pieced together over the years,” says Thorn. “Every year, we throw whatever we can afford at it.” Just last year, he says, they were able to purchase their first tractor (a two-wheeled “walk-behind” implement), a tiller and some other tools to make field work more efficient. This saved a lot of time — and their backs, laughs Harwell. And then there’s the farm’s water source. “The first well was 25 feet, but it actually runs dry in the summer,” says Harwell. “We lived with that for a few years, but we basically had to stop watering the garden in the summertime and just ration the water for ourselves.” They eventually saved enough money to have a new one drilled 80 feet deep, but then had to wait a few more years to install a pump that was strong enough to bring up all the water they need yearround — both for themselves and for their crops. “We’re slowly adding zones onto our irrigation since we got our well pump in last season,” says Thorn. As of December 2020, they were still running hoses to the winter squash and lettuces in the area farthest from the well. On the flipside, providing proper drainage has been a major challenge, especially for crops grown during the winter’s notoriously heavy rains. “We don’t harvest crops that are in standing water. It’s not safe,” says Harwell. Thorn indicates rows of raab, kale, radishes, cabbages and turnips that were swamped in the back field in December 2020. “This is essentially food for the soil now,” he says. “We’ll have to turn these under.” On the bright side, they note, adding organic matter to the soil in this way will help future crops grow better. “We believe a lot in plant health, and it all starts in the soil,” says Harwell. They have broadened their variety as they test new crops. Just last year, they
KATE HARWELL
Bil Thorn and Kate Harwell framed the farm’s largest greenhouse with logs cleared from their own property.
put in four rows of thornless blackberry vines — which produced “enormous, really sweet” berries. So they intend to take cuttings off those plants this year and quadruple the space allocated to them. They’ve also erected a large greenhouse for tomatoes, cucumbers and baby greens, framed with logs cut from their land. They intend to build several more over the next few years so they can extend their growing season. In addition, they have a smaller heated greenhouse set up next to their house for plant starts and hydroponic crops such as tomatoes and lettuces. “With as much rainfall as we get on the Peninsula, we need as many greenhouses as we can get,” says Thorn. “As long as we can provide for good drainage, we can produce pretty much all year long.”
Helping hands The pandemic forced the family to handle the 2020 harvest mostly by themselves. “With COVID, we couldn’t have big work parties; that would be irresponsible,” says Harwell, adding that she hopes such activities can resume in the upcoming season. She’s very grateful for the helping hand they received from Ashlee Mitchell of Aberdeen, who creates upcycled and reusable products under the business name Creative Ginger. She volunteered with Sky Island in summer 2020,
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Harwell says. “I was volunteering about once a week late in 2019, and the need came up for more help to develop the farm, so I came by more (in 2020),” says Mitchell. “Because of the pandemic, I found that it was another way that I can contribute to the community.” She did a bit of everything for the farm last season, from making crop beds to delivering CSA baskets in the North Beach area. In previous seasons, Harwell and Thorn had done all of their own CSA deliveries throughout Grays Harbor County. Mitchell even ran their booth at the Aberdeen Farmers Market, allowing them to take Sundays off for the first time in years. Instead of 70 hours a week, the couple worked about 50 a week that season with her help. “That was really nice,” says Harwell. Sky Island has been a regular participant at the Aberdeen Farmers Market since its inception two years ago, and sometimes at the Seabrook market. Their produce also is sold at the Market Place in Aberdeen. They also have sold wholesale to restaurants on the Harbor and in Seattle that are willing to invest in fresh, locally grown produce. Around the Harbor, they have worked with Frontager’s Pizza in Seabrook, Rediviva in Aberdeen, and Savory Faire in Montesano, among others. When th e regular growing season
is over, Thorn and Harwell cut fir boughs and other greens from their land to create holiday wreaths and garlands. Seabrook purchases most of them to decorate its light poles and town hall, Harwell says. The leftover greens are fed to the sheep and goats, and what remains is composted. Nothing goes to waste at Sky Island — a point of pride for the owners. The Tilth Alliance named Thorn its 2020 Farmer of the Year for his dedication to organic and sustainable farming and for addressing food security in his community. The nonprofit alliance, based in Seattle, works with Washington farmers, gardeners and eaters to build a sustainable, healthy and equitable food future. “That’s one of the most rewarding things about what we’ve done in farming, is to be able to make a positive contribution to the community,” says Thorn.
Down the road Once the pandemic is over, Thorn and Harwell hope to resume talks with Seattle Public Schools about hosting field trips for students. This would provide a fresh stream of recurring revenue, but they are far more excited about the prospect of providing new educational opportunities. They would love to cultivate interest among local schools, 4-H and FFA groups as well. “We’re open to working with anybody who would like their kids to be involved in any sort of agricultural pursuit,” says Thorn. They’ve hosted field trips from a few Harbor schools in recent years, including Lake Quinault, where both of them serve on the advisory committee of the horticultural program. “The kids always seem to have a good time,” says Harwell. “They have more fun than they think they have!” Even for youth who aren’t looking for that sort of career, showing them that small farms exist in their area can be beneficial. “It’s good to let them know they don’t have to buy everything at Walmart,” says Thorn. The couple also would like to establish a community kitchen one day to host both student outings and culinary events. “The goal is to eventually have farm-to-table dinners,” says Harwell. “We’ve had some local chefs say they wanted to do stuff like that.” One long-term goal the couple has is to make Sky Island a destination for agritourism. Thorn envisions creating flower-lined walking paths and building small rental cabins within one of the parcel’s large forested areas. Thorn also says he’d eventually like to expand Sky Island’s perennial crops, such as blackberries, which don’t have to be replanted every year. Perennials represent only a small portion of their active crops now. “As you get older, the idea of this much bending over and manual labor is less attractive,” he says. “So I’d like to start moving more toward that!” Editor’s note: This story was originally published in the Spring 2021 edition of Washington Coast Magazine.
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HEALING PROPERTY: Lavender farm is therapeutic for its owner KAT BRYANT / SPOKE
Dale Dineen holds bundles of hand-cut Grosso lavender at the third annual festival at her farm, Dale’s Lavender Valley.
STORY BY K AT BRYANT
PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
It’s hard to miss the summer blooms as you drive along Ocean Beach Road.
D
ale Dineen didn’t start cultivating lavender to make money. She’s always loved gardening and appreciated lavender’s relaxing qualities. So when one of her sons was killed in an on-thejob accident in 2009, it seemed natural to combine them to help her
through the grieving process. “After it was all said and done, my husband goes, ‘You want lavender?’ And I said OK,” she says. “Two weeks later, I have 1,000 plants on my porch.” She threw herself into the task of planting them in the field next to their home, which has been in the
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Dineen family for multiple generations. She had plenty of help from Tom, her husband of 37 years, and their three surviving adult children. Once it was all in the ground, it became Dale’s personal labor of love. Tom was a construction manager with the Quinault Indian Nation, and their children were
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PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
Georgia, one of the family’s two cattle dogs, sits in front of the greenhouse with numerous varieties of potted lavender.
taking care of their own families nearby; so she did nearly all of the work in the field. She went through the Washington State University Master Gardener program in 2012 to bolster her knowledge, and the lavender flourished. “It just grew and grew into something bigger,” she says. “After four or five years, it matured and we had to do something with it.”
Building a business Dale started out selling dried bundles and loose buds to people who stopped by to ask about it. Over time, as word spread and demand grew, she added a variety of homemade products and started operating under the business name Dale’s Lavender Valley. Tom has stepped up to handle the computer work, which she has no desire to deal with; the field remains her bailiwick. She hires a crew of about seven people to help with the harvest each year, but other than that, she says proudly, “this is all me.” In their best season to date, she says, the field yielded 6,000 bundles. At what point should lavender be harvested? “When the first flower buds, that’s when you want to cut it,” she says. “The buds will stay on the stem. But if it blooms (before it’s 34 T HE SP O K E M AG A ZINE | SUM M ER /FALL 2021
PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
Dale runs a hand through her supply of dried lavender buds, which are used to make sachets and other items.
cut), the flowers will all fall off.” What Dale chooses to create from her yield changes from year to year. This year, in addition to lavender loofah and apple sage soaps, she’s made lavender room sprays, lip balm, milk bath, sugar scrubs, “wands” and more. “I do a lot of crafts during the winter, and I can’t keep my soap in stock,” she said. “But my hands can only work so much on those.” She’s especially fond of the lavender sachets she created this year from recycled wool. They incorporate various color combinations, many with bird, flower or heart motifs. “Sometimes when I make things, I have to keep one for myself,” she says. “They’re just so cute!” She also sells potted lavender plants for people to place in their own gardens – and not just the Grosso variety that grows in her field. At any given time, customers also might choose from Royal Purple, Sachet, Royal Velvet, Munstead, Melissa, White Dwarf and Alba. These represent a wide spectrum of flowers, from deep purple to bright white. They also have varying levels of aroma and, for those who like cooking with it, taste. “The reason I like to work with Grosso is that it has the highest oil content — real camphory, real strong,” she says.
Founding a festival In July 2016, Dale organized her first Lavender Festival — again, not to make money, but because “we needed to sell lavender. We had so much of it!” she laughs. “Plus, we thought it would be fun for the community.
PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
Dale’s lavender field serves up a banquet for honeybees as well as other pollinators.
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PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
Dale’s Lavender Valley is located at 48 Robertson School Road in Hoquiam, just off Ocean Beach Road at mile marker 8.
“And again, it just grew.” She’s adamant that anyone setting up a tent at her festival sell things they’ve actually created. Most of the items sold there have nothing to do with lavender, but that’s not what matters to her. “It’s all local homemade crafts and products — nothing store-bought,” she says. She had 20 vendors lining her driveway in 2017 and almost 30 in 2018, including metal arts, baked goods, chocolates, candles and more. She also had live music out by the field, with hay bales to sit on and homemade lavender lemonade to sip. Her husband and children help out at the event, too, working the cash register and carting purchases out to people’s cars as Dale chats with visitors about her lavender and her crafts. The Sequim Lavender Festival, which has been going on in Clallam County for nearly 25 years, also takes place in July. It’s a huge event, with corporate sponsorships and well over 100 vendors — but she has no such aspirations for her annual event. “If you go to Sequim, they’ve got like 300 of the same product on the walls,” she says. “I never want to get that big.”
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PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
These dried bundles are incorporated into small wreaths.
PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
Next to the tool shed, succulents and other plants are sold in homemade display boxes.
PATRICIA JOLLIMORE / SPOKE
Dried bundles, jars of dried buds, and sachets are among the items displayed for sale in the greenhouse.
For love of lavender Despite how big her operation has become, Dale has no regular employees and doesn’t sell her lavender to commercial concerns. “I think I pulled in $10,000 last year (2017) off this, but I spent it on making things better,” she says. “It doesn’t really matter to me whether I make money or not, just because of where it evolved from.” After nine years, the bottom line is that it’s still a personal journey for her. “People say, ‘How do you do it?’ You just do it,” she says. “It’s been healing and wonderful, and it’s brought a lot of people into my life. So it’s been good.” Editor’s note: This story was originally published in the Fall 2018 edition of Washington Coast Magazine. Timeline references have been updated where necessary.
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