Moscow expat Life - Issue 10 - Spring 2015 by Moscow expat Life

SPRING 2015

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

CRISIS What do expats think? A Yea r O u t The I r i s h Comm u nit y Et ymological Fu n

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Community

3. Social Movers 5-8. News and Announcements 10. Wirtschaftsclub Russland event 11. Don Craig 12-13. 5th Annual Auski Plunge 14-15. IWC Charities Group 16-17. St. Andrew’s Bazaar 18-19. A Year Abroad At Moscow’s Best Acting School 20-21. Scottish Winter Dancing In Moscow 24-25. Nikita. London and Moscow Rules! 26-27. Christmas Truce Football Match 28-30. Angleski’ Driver Heads for Latvia 31. Simon Green’s Moscow

Irish Community

Moscow

44-45. Inflation in Moscow

Culture

46. Etymology

Real Estate 47. Tim Millard

Education

48-50. BIS Opens New School 52-53. Flying Bananas!

Charity

22. Taganka’s Children’s Fund Concert 23. Don Bosco Children’s Home Special Event 54-55. IWC’s Winter Bazaar 2014

Sport

56-57. Moscow Dragons RFC

Fashion

58-59. Ree van Dijk, The Art of Personal Packaging

Motoring

60. Motorsport

Health

SPRING 2015

32-33. The Irish Ambassador 34-35. The 2014 White ball 36. Avril Conway 37. Niall Carlton, Hugh Mc Enaney 38-39. David Pearce 40-41. Tony Watkins 42-43. Kat Clinch

62. The Atlas Medical Centre 64-65. For Hay-Fever Sufferers

Business

66-67. Richard Knight 68-69. Sebastian and St. James 70-71. Chris Weafer. ‘Buckle Up, It’s Going to be a Tough Ride…’

Crisis

72-81. The Crisis

Travel

82-83. Baku

Retro

84-85. 1997

Moscow Good Food Club 86-87. The Ritz Carlton

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants 88. A selection of Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants

Community and Essential Services 89-92. Community Services 93-96. Essential Information

LETTER

e are in the middle of a full-blown crisis. Not for the first time. There have been many periods since the founding of modern Russia in 1991, which have been described as ‘challenging’ by expats who lived through them. There were the Chechen Wars, Georgia, terrorist attacks, the1998 financial crisis and its aftermath, to list the most memorable. But this is different and probably more serious, as it includes psychological aspects, not ‘only’ long-lasting economic devastation. Recent reports that huge quantities of expats have been leaving Russia in the western mainstream media struck me as being odd me as there have not been more than 3,000 Italians, for example, living here since 1999, yet Russian media outlet reported that 20,000 Italians have left over the past year. Western media didn’t bother to check the accuracy of the reports, that included tourists, and there were stories of a mass exodus of expats from Russia. The overall numbers of expats has actually shrunk by 15-20% over the past year, according to the 5 relocation companies and 3 schools that I personally talked to over the past two weeks. The embassies that keep records confirmed these figures. As Sophocles pointed out in the 5th century before Christ: ‘What people believe prevails over the truth’. What do you think about the present crisis? We sent our questionnaires to a wide cross section of expats and asked how the crisis is affecting their work and life styles. Moscow expat Life publisher Kim Waddoup has complied an article on the results, and this important statement, covers all of 10 pages (pp. 72 –81)! Whilst on the subject of the crisis, Sophia Tupolev has written a revealing article on how much food prices have really risen in Moscow since August of last year. The Irish community may be small in numbers here in Moscow, but they certainly are not small in impact. They punch well above their size, with Irish in key positions in the Moscow financial worlds, in business, and now in teaching. Furthermore, Ireland, as David Pearce (pp. 38-39) explains, has historical links with Russia that many of us are unaware of. In this issue the ‘Angleski’ Alexandre Rogan takes us on a car journey to Latvia (pp. 28-30), and includes various personal embellishments based on his own personal understanding of Russia. I do hope that this magazine is something that you enjoy reading.

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

Community. Social Movers

Chris

Helmbrecht

e are finally leaving the days of long darkness behind and soon Moscow will put on her best dress and bloom for us. Springtime is certainly one of the best seasons, not only for us nightlife people. The winter took some tribute, though. The legendary Solyanka was closed down by the police over a dispute over the rent. The owner

Maria Ushakova

pring is in the air! So happy we have had an almost ‘non existent winter’. So, what is new? We have a great new venue in town, it’s very small, but very cozy. ‘Jim’and’Jack’ Bar, run by young enthusiasts who are also amazing comedians and founders

Roman and his lawyer are trying to get things sorted out, but the club’s creative crowd has long moved on to places like Rodnya, Powerhouse or Dennis Simachevs new place LOL, which has the potential to become the city’s most trendy (and hard to get in) party-bar this season. Moscow’s biggest coke dealer and partyboy ‘Antonio’ was arrested just a few weeks ago and is waiting trial in an overcrowded prison cell. Guess, this is the end of his glory days and I wonder where Moscow’s most elite party people powder their noses now. Alexey Goroby, Moscow’s most famous nightlife figure, the maker of clubs like Dyagilev or Imperia Lounge had less luck. Officially he died of a heart attack, while spending his New Year’s vacations in Bolivia. You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to put one and one together, right? He’ll be missed! But, no worries, his latest project ‘Artel Bessonnitsa’, one of the best Moscow clubs, will be continued by the team owning Icon, Space and many other venues. That leaves us to wait for the opening of the summer terraces.

‘Jagger’ is still the city’s most crowded party bar and it will soon reopen its terrace. Check the nearby Blacksmith Pub for rock and live music. If you are a beer lover like me, then ask for ‘Trigger’, which is a Moscow micro brewery, probably making the best beer in town. We are organizing a new bi-weekly event called Expat DJ Series. Where we give carefully selected Expats, who dj, an opportunity to play and you to check their music. If you think you have what it takes to be a good dj, send me your mix. Here is the lineup of the city’s top places (in my opinion). Just google the name + Moscow for more information about the venues: SOHO Rooms (glam), Krysha Mira (afterhour), Artel Bessonnitza (semi glam), LOL (fashionable), Rodnya (creative underground), Mendeleev Bar (elegant techno), Jagger (dirty party), Propaganda (Thurdays, democratic), Obloko (Thursdays glam), Garage Club (Sun/Wed RnB), PPL (party bar), 8 Oz. (creative / underground) Sibir (super glam pre-party), Extra Lounge Korston (Russian glam)

of Moscow Comedy BAR. They hold stand-up shows each weekend in various bars in Moscow, and they also bring stars from abroad to perform in English for the local community. Just check them out, they have huge potential. I really believe that this bar will become a cult bar! We are now there all the time and all of my parties (or almost all) take place there now. Actually, one event not to be missed this summer is ‘Our Expat Picnic on the Beach’. It will happen most likely in Rosinka village just 20 minutes away from central Moscow on the lake! One more bit of positive news. We have successfully launched our first 10-week theatrical course together with the Moscow English Theatre. 22 talented ‘newly trained’ actors will show off their skills in a specially organised performance

on April 18th. Our next student intake is in September. We are also working on organising London Theatre Tours for everyone who loves theatre and would like to take a great look at the backstage and meet actors and directors. So, lots of positive news about theatre. Thanks Moscow Expat Magazine for connecting me with the right people all the time! We continue with our tours and lectures. I recommend an upcoming one on ‘Spies and Methods of Agent Recruitment in XIX Century Europe’. Please write to me for more information about our events. My email: maushakova@googlemail. com or just find us on the web, now that we have our own website www. vashiminashim.com Life is so much easier in Moscow for you and for me! See you all soon!

Colophon Contributors:

Publisher:

Kim Waddoup, kim@aigroup.ru

Editor:

John Harrison, editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Business Development Manager: Anastasia Sukhova, anastasia@moscowexpatlife.ru

Designer:

Julia Nozdracheva, chiccone@yandex.ru

Researchers: Anastasia Soldatova Aleksandra Markova Alena Kizimova Natalia Alexandrovna

Administration: Alina Kurpas Liliya Islamova Свидетельство о регистрации СМИ ПИ № ТУ50-01602 от 15 января 2013 г. Выдано Управлением Федеральной службы по надзору в сфере связи, информационных технологий по Москве и Московской области Учредитель: ООО «Эй Ай Груп» Главный редактор: Джон Харрисон

Chris Weafer Sophia Flohr Olga Samsonova Sophia Tupulev Lucy Kenyon Luc Jones Tim Millard Ross Hunter Helen Borodina Claudia Bianconi Costante Marengo Domenico Giordano Ernesto Ferienghi Mariolina Mariotti Marisa Florio Maurizio Forte Ria van Dijk Chris Helmbrecht Maria Ushakova Dominique Waddoup Alexandre Rogan Richard Knight Richard Peers Tim Millard

Editorial Address: 3rd Frunzenskaya 5, Bldg 1, Office 1 119270 Mosvcow, Russia Tel: +7 495 777 2577 www.moscowexpatlife.ru info@moscowexpatlife.ru

Moscow expat Life occasionally uses material we believe has been placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim ownership of something we have published, we will be pleased to make a proper acknowledgement.

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News and Announcements AEB initiates anti-recessionary measures to support small and medium member companies!

The Association of European Businesses is happy to announce a brandnew benefit for small and medium enterprises member companies. To support our category D member companies* through this difficult time we offer them an opportunity to participate in AEB events free of charge in the year of 2015. We hope this sustaining measure will encourage small and medium companies to play a more dynamic role in AEB activities. Be more active – explore new opportunities for your businesses! *Category D: a company with a worldwide turnover <1 mln EUR and individual members

Sixth Northern Dimension Forum in St. Petersburg AEB invites you to participate in the Sixth Northern Dimension Forum, organized by the Northern Dimension Business Council and the Association of European Businesses. The Forum will take place at the Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden (St. Petersburg) on March 26th, 2015. This year’s Forum will be devoted to important issues associated with interregional cross-border cooperation in the changed reality including new approaches in business development within the Northern Dimension area. As is traditional, special attention will be paid to the regions of the North-Western Federal District of the Russian Federation and neighboring European regions. The Forum is expected to attract more than 250 participants representing Russian and European key actors in the Northern Dimension area. Key topics for the plenary sessions and round-table discussions will include power Sector and Energy Efficiency; Ecology and Cleantech; Vocational Education and Training; Transport and Logistics; Health and Pharmaceuticals; Creative Industries. Representatives from Russian and European ministries, agencies, regional administrations as well as national and foreign business circles and civil society have been invited to participate in the Forum. For further details, please have a look at the program of the event at AEB web-site www.aebrus.ru

American Women’s Organization Since 1993, the American Women’s Organization (AWO) of Moscow, has provided support to expatriate women, and/or spouses, of all North American countries including the United States, Canada and Mexico. The aim of the organization is to provide social and cultural opportunities during your tenure here in Moscow. AWO members are very friendly, open and always willing to share their experiences. General meetings are held on the first and third Wednesday of each month and commence at 11:00am. Newcomers are always welcomed and encouraged to attend any of our meetings. If you would like additional information on the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, please contact us at awomoscow@gmail.com Throughout the year, AWO provides support to our main charity Nastenka – a charitable foundation that helps children with cancer. Our largest fundraiser for Nastenka is the Arts & Crafts Festival, which is held every November. Last year we supported the 21st Annual Festival and we look forward to continuing supporting this charity in the future.

British Business Club 2015 Events Date January 29 February 26 March 26 April 30 May 28 June 25 July 30 August 27 September 24 October 29 November 26 December 10 or 17

Location Katie O’Shae’s Standart Bar Standart Bar Papas Boat Trip Hudson Bar Hudson Bar Hudson Bar Night Flight City Golf TBA Xmas Party

For further details about BBC events and membership opportunities, please see our website: www.britishclub.ru

Lent, Holy Week and Easter at St. Andrews Anglican Chaplaincy Ash Wednesday, Feb. 18. 7:00p.m. Holy Communion held jointly with Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy Palm Sunday, Mar. 29 8:30 a.m. – Liturgy of the Palms and Holy Communion 11:00 a.m. – Dramatized reading of the Passion and Holy Communion Maundy Thursday, Apr. 2 7:00 p.m. Service and Eucharist Good Friday, April 3 12:00 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. service of personal reflection with hourly prayers 7:00 p.m. – Service of music and prayers held jointly with Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy Easter, April 4-5 Easter Vigil, Dawn Service and Easter Day Communion We will also offer a Lenten course on growing spiritually. For more details and the latest information about our service offerings, please visit our website, www.MoscowAnglican.org or find us on Facebook at Facebook.com/MoscowAnglican.

News and Announcements Coming Up at Bogdarnaya In addition to the usual week end breaks with horse riding/sled rides/quads/ skating and skiing, the team at Bogdarnaya present special themed events. For instance: 7-9th March: ‘Russian style’ weekend seminar. Includes a presentation of 19th century women’s clothing where a model is transformed into a young lady of the Pushkin era. You can see some current copyright stylizations of Russian folk costumes. Take a chance to book a professional photo shoot in the stables wearing a 19th century Russian folk costume. Dance evening with a special teacher when you can learn some 19th century dance steps. The day will also include a horse show with horse quadrille, pas de deux, trick riding and dressage. 28-29 March: Weekend tour of local churches and ruins, plus a tour to Vladimir, including a Lenten lunch in a Nunnery on an Island 12 April: Russian Easter Mass. A quiet Saturday; the midnight mass; the breaking of the Lenten fast and then on Sunday, festive ‘Pasxalni’ celebrations 18 April: Jazz cheese and wine evening. The Italian Jazz trio ‘Accordi Disaccordi’ will be playing in the barn, and in the interval you can listen to Russian folk accordion music. Either a day out, or a special weekend package available.

British Football Club has come to Moscow! Developed from the model of a children’s football club in the UK, British Football Club offers children aged between 6 and 13 the opportunity to play in a real football team environment. Led by professional British football coaches, British Football Club has a number of teams based on age so that your children can play more structured football with their friends and develop their football skills and abilities against children of their own age. The children who join British Football Club will have the opportunity to play football matches throughout the year against different Russian and international opponents in friendly football matches and football tournaments. British Football Club has weekly football trainings at the International School of Moscow. The trainings are open to children of any ability between the ages of 6 and 13.

The session details are: Day: SUNDAY 18th JANUARY to 5th APRIL  Ages: Children aged 6-13, any ability. Venue: International School of Moscow, Krylatskaya Street 12/5, Krylatskoye, Moscow. 121552. Time & age: 11:30 to 13:30. BFC 1 and for children aged 12-13. Time & age: 11:30 to 13:30. BFC 2 for children aged 10-11. Time & age: 14:00 to 16:00. BFC 3 and 4 for children aged 8-9. Time & age: 14:00 to 16:00. BFC 4 for children aged 6-7. Cost: 2000p (discounts available, please contact BFC). If you are interested for your child to join British Football Club then email info@britishfootballschool.com or call +7 499 390 2054. Their website is www.britishfootballschool.com

Down Under Charity Ball

The Fourth Annual Down Under Charity Ball 2015 April 18th at Moscow’s Radisson Royal Hotel - Ukraina We welcome you to the fourth annual Aussie Down Under Charity Ball, a prestigious occasion on Moscow’s social calendar and a much-anticipated event! April 18th promises to be an unforgettable night at Moscow’s Radisson Royal Hotel – Ukraina. The hotel’s grandeur will set the mood for an unparalleled experience; opening with a whole new program and offering a 4-course Australian cuisine, an open bar, great people, live entertainment, an exciting raffle and a lively auction. The extraordinary evening will play host to accomplished industry leaders, honoured heads of foreign Embassies in Moscow and distinguished guests. All proceeds go to the Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia program; a wonderful charity, which assists and mentors at-risk children and adolescents. Tickets are already on sale at 7,000 per head. Check out the seating plan and choose your seats. You can reserve your tickets at: aussieball2015@mail.ru. Or call Gabe: +7 916 522 9112

English Language Evenings Still alive in Moscow since beginning in 1998, English Language Evenings has hosted more than 250 lecture meetings on a great variety of topics, with lecturers from many countries. With its own website (www.ELEMoscow.net) and FB page (https://www.facebook.com/ groups/ele1998/), ELE is open and welcoming to all. One of its upcoming evenings, on March 13, will host Antal Commercial Director Luc Jones, on an evening related to his travels.

News and Announcements Kids’ Rugby and Netball Coaching, Live Music and Coverage of Rugby 6 Nations Championship at Rosinka! A number of exciting events open to the wider Moscow community will take place in March 2014, organised by ISM and Rosinka and driven by the plethora of talented children, staff and families present in a community drawn from the many nations and international school families present in the Russian capital.

(Pictured: Valentin and Anya Khalembakov, ISM Rosinka’s individual guitar and music teachers playing at the first ‘Open Mic’ Night in February)

The ‘Open Mic’ night held on Thursday 19th February (see images above) is just one of many successful days and nights Rosinka has hosted since the start of this academic year. We will be repeating this on Friday 13th March, followed by our Fun Mini-Rugby and Netball Coaching and Games for children and Live Coverage of the 6 Nations Rugby on Saturday 14th March. All events mentioned above are free and open to the wider Moscow community. Please mailto: rosinkaevents@internationalschool.ru Important note: when emailing, please include ‘Open Mic’ or ‘Rugby Event’ as your subject heading; please state your full name and those of the other guests who wish to attend in the email; we will reply to you to confirm your inclusion on the guest list for Rosinka security, Please apply early to attend these events since volume of requests may be high!

News and Announcements Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball 2015

The International Women’s Club of Moscow is proud to present one of its traditional and most special charity events: the annual Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball, which will be held on Saturday, May 30th. Themed “Tsarina’s Night”, the 19th edition of the IWC Ball promises to be more exciting than ever before. Mrs. Afrah Alfaddaghi, IWC President, and the International Women’s Club of Moscow look forward to welcoming you as a guest to this historical Ball. We are honoured that this year we will be hosting our Ball at the prestigious Petroff Palace, which was built for Catherine the Great and designed by the famous Russian architect Matvei Kazakov. With its luxurious garden and exquisite ballroom be prepared for a whimsical Ball. We invite you to journey into the past and experience where Catherine the Great, Tsars and even Napoleon spent the night! The Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball offers two options for the

evening. The first option is dinner at one of Moscow’s Embassies followed by the Ball. Your dinner will be hosted by the ambassador and his/her spouse who will welcome you at their embassy or residence along with a select number of other guests. You will be served an exquisite dinner and drinks from the embassy’s local cuisine. Afterward you can proceed to Petroff Palace and join the other guests for a spectacular night. Alternatively, guests can directly come to the Ball where you will be served delicious canapés and drinks. The splendid Petroff Palace will open its garden from 9:00 pm onward for music, entertainment and dancing. During the evening you will have the opportunity to purchase raffles tickets to win exclusive prizes and to participate in the silent auction. All

proceeds of the event are donated to charity projects supported and monitored by the IWC. Please join us on Saturday, May 30th, 2015 and travel into history: Catherine the Great and Tsars might be among us dancing the night away in Petroff Palace. Attire for the evening is Black tie and Evening Gown, tiara optional. Tickets for the event are 10,000 Rubles for Dinner and Ball, and 7,000 Rubles for Ball Only. On behalf of the International Women’s Club Of Moscow, we would like to thank all the embassies and sponsors who contribute generously to our charities. For more details about the event, and tickets sales please visit www. iwcmoscow.ru or our Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/ groups/554958397937133/.

Moscow Dragons RFC Moscow’s only international rugby club Moscow Dragons RFC was founded in 1997. Over the years players from no less than 50 countries have taken to the field for the Dragons. At home we play our rugby in the Moscow League, but we tour as often as 10 times annually, sometimes within Russia, and often overseas. Over the coming few months we’ll be touring in Istanbul, taking a trip to the clubs around the Golden Ring, playing some beach rugby in Yaroslavl and fitting in a full programme at home. We welcome players (men and women – our ladies 7s team have a full programme too) of all ages – our youngest players are still in their teens, and our elder statesmen are well into their fifties. We train on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 8pm throughout the year. We have a regular social programme and there’s a good chance that most weekends there’ll be something going on, perhaps just getting together to watch some internationals. Our annual Charity Ball is a highlight of the Moscow social scene and our summer boat trip has a legendary reputation. For more information: web: www.mdrfc.com twitter: @mdrfccom email: pr@mdrfc.com tel: +7-903-104-4496

FREE JIVE DANCE CLASSES IN MOSCOW !

Beginners’ classes every Saturday held in English and Russian at the The Esse Jazz Cafés and other venues Not essential to come with a partner. For more information contact Richard at richardhume.hume@ gmail.com or phone +7 903 558 71 35 Co-op Jive - www.coopjive.co.uk

Community

Building Bridges

n February, Wirtschaftsclub Russland (WCR e.V. Business Club Russia) celebrated their fifth anniversary in Moscow. Following the motto ‘Building Bridges’, four international painters created a unique peace of art together with the more than 150 guests who attended the event at the Swissôtel, Moscow. This piece of art was donated and will be auctioned to help finance the ‘New Silkway Award’ for entrepreneurs and businesses, launched in January 2015 by Dr. Karin von Bismarck, chairman of Wirtschaftsclub Russland. Companies with involvement along the New Silk route between China and Europe, will be nominated for the ‘New Silkway Award’. Wirtschaftsclub Russland was honoured to have the former prime minister of Brandenburg and Chairman of the German-Russian Forum, Matthias Platzeck as their guest. He pointed out that German-Russian relations in the past have survived many crises and that he is optimistic that a solution will be found to the present problems. Europe and Russia are located geographically on one Continent.

www.wirtschaftsclubrussland.org

Community Don Craig is known by just about everybody as a promoter of restaurants, clubs and bars. He is so well known that recently; he recounts, he was eating out in a Moscow venue he had never been to before, and somebody came up to him and started asking him questions about the place as of he was working there. Through his site ‘Moscow Interacts’ and many other activities, Don Craig has quite simple become synonymous with expat nights out. Now he is managing ‘Donnies’ a huge bar and food venue just behind Mendeleevskoe Metro, as well as still being involved in all his other projects. It’s going well. Kim Waddoup caught with him:

Don Craig Kim: What do you feel about this crisis, is it different from previous crises? Don: I’ll talk about how it is affecting the restaurant business. We have had a number of hits. Firstly, the antismoking laws affected business quite seriously, then we had the sanctions coming in, and it became difficult to get some products. A lot of people changed their business plans, and stopped catering for expats for example, but in Donnie’s I didn’t change anything. What I did here is to find local substitutes for imported products. We managed to keep the menu as it was, the worst problem was with alcohol. The cost has gone up quite considerably, and we can’t pass all on that onto the client, so that’s the reason that we are doing so many different things here, to diversify the business. But the Russians really don’t seem to be that bothered, the change in smoking rules probably was a more serious problem than the sanctions.

Kim: So you opened this Bar and Grill just as the crisis was staring to be felt, in November, but you have been pretty successful in getting people into the bar. How did you do that?

Don: In December we actually had the best sales that this bar has even had. The first thing I did was improve on the beer selection, then I moved onto the menu and concentrated on items that people actually like. If you take the American Diners, and the American Bar and Grill, and put it all in one basket, this is what we offer. And the prices are very reasonable. Basically, we give people what they want at a price they can afford.

think the owners can tell the difference between Russians and expat clients. The foreigners like to go to places like the Hudson or Papa’s because these places are clean and good fun, the Russians are the same, they go to places because they want to, not because of foreigners. They want to listen to good music and enjoy themselves.

Kim: Don’t you think the music scene in Moscow has become a bit limited? Don: There are still various bars, which put on live music, like Krisis Zhanra, Rhythm Dolls & Pistols, and Blues Cafe, but it’s not everywhere. In the old days, there used to be live music every day or all over Moscow almost everywhere, now you are lucky if you can find it once a month.

Kim: You certainly provide a lot of information for people through your website, and Facebook activities. Do you cater only for the expats, or is it for the wider Russian community as well?

Kim: Tell us about the Curry Club. It’s been gong on for 2 years now?

Don: No, expat business has shrunk, and it’s now between 7080% Russian, but I am still involved with expats a lot. In the 90s, Russians followed expats to new bars and restaurants. Now, I don’t

Don: No, it’s going on 6 years now. It’s a kind of barometer for the expat community. If lots of people are going to the Curry Club, like they are now, then everything is all right.

Community

5th Annual

Cold Plunge

he fifth annual Auski Cold Plunge for the Homeless was held on February 14 at Serebryanny Bor. Something of a ‘rite of passage’ for many an expat, about 60 braved the icy waters of the ‘Bottomless Lake’ to give something back to those living rough in Moscow at 2,500 roubles per swimmer. The Russian Emergencies Ministry kindly ensured their safety. The Australian and New Zealand ambassadors led the charge in the water, and a warm-up after party saw even more fun at Katie O’Shea’s. With donations still coming in, a total of more than 300,000 roubles is expected. www.facebook. com/coldplunge.auski

Community

y: S ed b r a p

a ikov

as na L

The IWC Charities Group Pre

he IWC Charities Group is an integral part of the IWC. As a women’s organization we have decided to focus our primary attention on children. We have based this decision on the fact that children represent a society’s future, thus we provide an opportunity to invest for the longer term and that in many cases intervention can be life-changing – for the child, for the family and beyond. We regularly support 14 long-term charity projects for children who are in medical care, in orphanages, live with foster families or in not well functioning families, and children with disabilities. We also support elderly and destitute people by

providing food, basic medical care, education and shelter. We currently have 9 long-term projects for the elderly and destitute. The IWC Charities Group also assesses people and organizations that find themselves in a difficult life situation when they are in need of a financial contribution to solve their problem – e.g. to pay for special medical treatment, finance the (re) construction of their premises or buy medical equipment. Last year we were able to accommodate 7 requests for one time financial contributions. The IWC Charities Group also runs a donation office where people can bring items they no longer need and are in good condition (clothes, toys, home appliances or even dry food

with storage time). We distribute these items on a regular basis among 10 charity projects. The IWC holds two major fund raising events throughout the year. The first is the IWC Winter Bazaar and the second is IWC Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball. These two main events contribute significant financial support to our projects. These would not be possible without the great support from the embassies, the sponsoring companies and the fantastic expat and Russian community participating at the events. We hope to keep up the tradition of these events for a long time! As we would like to raise as much money as possible for charity

Community projects, we are organizing further charity events during the year. One of them is our annual Charity Art Auction. We raise money for charity projects through auctioning the donated art works of Russian and expat artists living in and inspired by Russia. After last year`s success at the Hungarian Cultural Center we are looking forward to this year`s event in the middle of March! In October 2014 we have organized the first-ever used Book sale. It took place in the warm and cosy atmosphere of L’Ecole Cécile Rogue. We had mostly English language fiction and children’s books for sale, in addition to an eclectic mix of other genres and languages.

Apart from this, many events organized by IWC have a ‘touch of charity’ as our work is an integrated part of the IWC activities. We received a financial support from the very popular Martini Evening in the Shabu Shabu PanAsian Restaurant, from the wine evening ‘IWC Uncorked’ at Vintage Wine Bar + Restaurant and from the trip to Bogdarnya Farm as well as the ‘Champagne Beauty by J. Lassalle’ at Hotel Baltchug Kempinski. We are grateful for all these donations! An ever-growing part of our funds comes from the monthly raffles organized at the IWC Meet & Greet meetings. We have a set of regular sponsors but are always

delighted to receive donations from members, and we encourage them to buy raffle tickets. We are very proud to say that we supported 30 charity projects in 2014. You may think that ‘30’ is not a high number, but throughout these projects our help reaches over 1000 people in need! With the overwhelming support, participation, and the interest from our community at our charity event to raise money for children and adults, we are well motivated to continue our efforts to organize more charity events in 2015. We hope to see many expats and Russians joining these events either as sponsors or participants!

IWC CHARITY PROJECTS (2014-2015) The IWC Charity Group is an integral and vital part of the IWC. The Group mainly focuses on charities that are supporting children. In many cases intervention can be life-changing – for the child, for the family and beyond. We support: • children in poor or unstable families, • children in orphanages or other institutions, • children with medical needs. A third of our funds go to the elderly and destitute (pensioners, homeless etc). PROJECT NAME Children in care Mother Teresa’s Home for Orphans Salesian Fathers’ Foster Home The Promise/Obeshchanie (Riazan province)

PROJECT DESCRIPTION IWC provides funds for art and craft supplies for children with developmental and physical disabilities. Around 40 ‘social orphans’ living with foster mothers in a safe and caring environment. IWC helps with food and household expenses. Provision of portage sessions to 3 disabled children at Yelatma orphanage to develop skills such as sitting, walking, talking and feeding themselves.

Children in families Tourmaline Social Rehabilitation Center Rehabilitation Center Aurora Food for needy students Big Change Educational Center for Russian Orphans Neznaika Shelter Children in medical need Speransky Children’s Hospital -Thermal plastic sheeting Speransky Children’s Hospital -Theatre project Operation Hope Elderly and destitute Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy ‐ Children Hunger Assistance Program Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy -Food Bags Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy -Medical Advice Center Desnitsa Mir Church of Birth of Mother of God (Yaroslavl) Night Bus

A day-center for 42 mentally and physically disabled children and adults who receive education, social therapy and learn crafts. IWC provides warm lunch and drinks. A center for women who have come out of prison to help them reintegrate into society and reunite with their families. IWC provides funds for computer classes. The catholic center provides lunches on Sundays and food bags for very poor foreign students from Africa and South America. IWC provides funds for some of the lunches. The center provides education, mentoring and life-‐ skill coaching for orphans who are about to start an independent life out of orphanages. IWC provides funds to pay for three mentors. IWC provides the shelter with funds for food for migrant families (mostly women and children) without Moscow residency and/or living in crisis situations. IWC provides funds for the sheeting used in the treatment of burns to prevent hypertrophic burn scars and contractures. Puppet shows are provided for children in the Burns Unit as part of the play therapy program which has proved to be a vital part of the recovery process for children suffering from trauma (two performances per month) Provides shunts for the treatment of premature babies with hydrocephalus. IWC sponsors 100 operations. Bi-monthly approximately 140 food bags are provided for single parent families and large families with low income. Handing out food bags every second week to pensioners and poor families. Free medical clinic for refugees, migrants and the homeless. IWC helps with subsidies for prescription medicines are provided for patients who otherwise would not be able to afford them. IWC provides funds for monthly food bags for 36 needy pensioners. IWC provides funding for food for five men with no income who are restoring the church. IWC supports the distribution of food and toiletries for up to 200 homeless once a week.

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St. Andrewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bazaar

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n Dec. 6, St. Andrews Anglican Church hosted its annual Christmas bazaar, featuring traditional English holiday treats along with beautiful hand-made Russian souvenirs. The Flying Banana Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Theater also presented three performances of The Stick Man and CityKids offered crafts for children. Approximately 750 people attended the event.

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A Year Abroad – At Moscow’s Best Acting School hr

a Flo

i Soph

An exchange student’s tales of Moscow Life!

n September 2014 that distant idyll of my first year at university came to pass. The time had come to pack my bags, bid farewell to civilisation as I knew it and to embark upon a series of misunderstandings and adventures, be they delightful or disastrous. A time otherwise known as the Year Abroad. I suppose the easiest place to start is at the beginning. After months of listening to my excruciatingly organised fellow linguists at Cambridge discussing (or perhaps self-congratulating would be more accurate) their Year Abroad internships at prestigious law firms, news agencies and financial advisory firms, I decided it was time to bring my own, still non-existent but imperatively distinguished, work or study placement to the table. But since my head was blessed with neither scientific nor mathematical genius I applied for none of the aforementioned, allegedly respectable internships. Instead I applied and was accepted to do the course of my sincerest dreams, the first year acting course at the University of Theatre Arts in Moscow, known more simply as GITIS. The beautiful lemon-meringue coloured former palace that, for nigh-on 150 years, has housed one of Russia’s most venerable theatre institutes, once belonged to an illustrious noble family and sits

majestically behind the protective walls that line Malyy Kislovskii street in central Moscow. I found out about this aged and esteemed institution, alma mater to a host of illustrious alumnae including Olga Knipper, Anton Chekhov’s wife, and Vsevolod Meyerhold, a wonderful actor and theatre director of the early 20th century, through..well, um, google. Gotta love the internet. So after sending in a resumé of past theatrical endeavours and a letter in pitiful Russian, no adjective will ever suffice to describe how I felt after being admitted to this most extraordinary school. Especially since a chance surf on the internet had led to my discovery of its existence. Fast forward to September 1st and the first day of GITIS had arrived. I passed the pretty girls in stylish coats and the boys reciting Pasternak with the odd glance at their mobile phones, standing before the gates of the University, and made my way to the entrance hall where our timetables could be found. And there it was. First year Acting Course, Class Director: Golomazov. Mondays to Saturdays 9:30am – 10pm. Right. Now, I wasn’t working in a bottle factory in Irkutsk, I had nothing to complain about really. But it was now that I understood that characteristically Slavic sense of discipline. And I didn’t look back. Two weeks into the course I had learnt a lot already, even if

more about my ability to make an absolute fool of myself than anything to do with acting. The school takes a highly holistic approach to acting and classes therefore consist of acting, history, movement (where the stoic spirit of Soviet Fizkultura lives on!), musical theory, speech, dance and rhythm class. In our acting classes, as well as playing terrifying drama games that involve us dancing solo to the class in the style of a garlic or a tree, we present our ‘études’ or observational sketches. This, ostensibly simply, entails finding a subject, animate or inanimate, imitating it and finally presenting your sketch to the class. I say, ostensibly simply, because no matter how much rehearsal or selfconfidence coaching you’ve allowed yourself, nothing can prepare you for the agonising butterfly disco that takes place in your stomach every time you open that classroom door, ready (or not) to present your ‘étude’. Of course my first idea for the infamous étude was to imitate a starfish. And, unsurprisingly, I was duly compensated for my ridiculous idea with a mighty helping of humiliation and utter embarrassment. But in Russia, there’s no time for niceties, and utter humiliation and harsh criticism are the best ways to grow. My classmates, in contrast, bewilderingly talented and creative, have dreamt up all sorts of wacky études on

Community amorous candelabrums, ravenous piranhas, a dad hurriedly trying to dress his grumpy toddler in the morning, snacking hamsters, aged clowns, conniving rats, a snobbish hair-comb and aggressive camels to name just a few. Their humility and genius never fail to astound me. And as seemingly banal, though undoubtedly amusing, these études may appear, they have taught me more than life at a hedge fund ever could. I have been taught to be an individual. “Acting,” one of our beloved teachers remarked, “is a striptease of the soul”. I’ve learnt that what makes things truly interesting is when you put yourself, who you are, into something. Another thing I’ve learnt: that takes courage. But as our wonderful and strong-spirited teacher, a former actress herself, noted, “Without bravery, there is no art”. And in a similar vein, my favourite comedian Simon Amstell often proclaims, “Why be timid?! Death is approaching!” And it’s perfectly true. Our existence on this earth is a

bizarre and ephemeral thing, and our acknowledgement of that fact should give those of us lucky enough to have what we call freedom a lot of courage. Are the students here different to those in the UK? Yes and no. The relationship dilemmas, the banter, the gossip, the pranks and mischief still continue unaffected by geography. But whereas the phrase “Homosexuality? Well, it’s just not normal” would earn you a slap in any reputable institute of higher education in the UK, (why?) in Russia, it would (generally) be accompanied by unanimous nods. Similarly, the cry “May God be with us!” (C Богом!) during a group high-five before presenting an étude would more likely label you as the freaky fanatic than the average classmate in England. These things aside, my classmates have shown me a warmth and friendliness I never would have expected. High fives, hugs, kisses and fist bumps abound on campus and the students’ endless patience with my initially elementary (to say the most) Russian has never failed to amaze me.

It has been an immense privilege to study with the some of the most open-hearted and gifted students I fear I might ever meet. And Moscow has shown itself to be a city of bemusing conflicts, a microcosm of larger Russia. Young creatives, with eyes to the west but their hearts in their homeland, have developed a growing art, music and fashion scene over the past fifteen years which undoubtedly makes the city an exciting place. I am endlessly saddened, however, and somehow amused that Moscow’s metro seems fit for a king whilst you won’t go a day without seeing dozens of homeless people, often elderly, roaming the streets, a whiff of intoxicated breath in their wake. Many things here remain problematic but, despite centuries of western misconception, there is and always will be an abundance of beauty and idiosyncratic charm to this vast country that is known only to those foreigners with a curiosity to explore and a hunger for adventure.

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Scottish I

Winter

Dancing

in Moscow erov y Alf atagina e g r e by: S lina V Text pher: Po ra otog

n December 2014 Moscow expats joined Russians interested in traditional music and dances of Scotland at St. Andrew’s Anglican Church for a wee turn of PreChristmas dancing. Mixing simple Scottish Ceilidh dances (for beginners) and some more complicated Scottish Country dances (for experienced dancers) resulted in a fun and energetic evening enjoyable for everyone, with lots of smiles, cheer and laughter. Live music from Anatoly Isaev (bagpipe, Scottish button

accordion) and Vladimir Volkov (fiddle) supported the emotional uplift. The event was organised by Sergey Alferov and Anna Kochetkova (The Shady Glen School of Scottish Dancing), with the help of the Moscow Branch of the Royal Scottish Country Dance Society and the International Women’s Club of Moscow Ceilidh Dance Group. The next opportunity to participate in lively Scottish social dancing at St. Andrew’s Anglican Church is on St. Valentine’s Day, 14th February 2015.

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Charity TAGANKA CHILDREN’S FUND

ould like to thank all its friends and supporters who joined them in December to see the new performance by the inclusive theatre Taganka Shed titled “THE FESTIVAL OF DREAMS” at the Central House of Journalists. The project was launched in 2008 in partnership with Chickenshed Theatre Trust, London. For last 6 years, more than 100 children and young people with special needs were engaged in the creative process to reduce their social isolation, contributing to acceptance of diversity in the Russian society through art and fun.

For more information, please visit www.charity-tcf.ru

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Don Bosco Children’s Home Special Event

Katie

special night of song, dance and poetry by Moscow’s most vulnerable children has been hailed as a ‘great success’ by organisers. Children from the Don Bosco Children’s Home hosted the artistic event on February 5 to raise awareness about the center. The group dedicated their performance to St. Don Bosco, the patron of the home, which currently cares for 36 children aged between 7 and 18. Unlike many children’s homes in the city, most children at Don Bosco have a living parent who placed them at the center voluntarily when they were unable to continue supporting them – usually due to extreme poverty. The performance included a showcase of Kyrgyz national dance and song, a scene from the Baltic fairytale Castle of Liars, and a puppet show telling the tale of the Three Little Pigs. “The children worked so hard for this show and it was a great success,” said Ludmila Maslennikova, one of the centre’s small team of staff who prepared the programme. “This performance was a celebration of the children’s work and lives – even though they face many difficulties, they put their positivity and joy into everything they do, and we want to celebrate that. Just like all other children, they need and deserve a chance to express themselves artistically and have their voices heard. “Even though their parents weren’t all there to see them, having so many people turn up to support them was a huge confidence boost.” Wiktoria Zielinska, IWC member and event coorganizer, said, “We would like the say a huge thank you to everyone who came to support the event. A special thank you goes to our guests from the International Women’s Club, who have been generous supporters of the Home for a long time, and Karen Janjua, wife of the

To find out more about Don Bosco’s children’s home, or if you’re interested in supporting their work, visit their website at s www.donbosco.su e i av

Pakistani ambassador, who gave up her time to see us. It’s only the generosity of so many people – not only those who give donations, but also the volunteers who give up their time – which allows the Home to continue their important work.

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kita

i by N

London

and Moscow

Rules!

s a child, I climbed up a public tree, knowing it was forbidden fruit. An overzealous neighbour called the police resulting in my father paying a fine. I am visiting my son in the UK and I realise that I am surrounded by a plethora of warning signs hanging on every available surface ‘No parking,’‘No admittance,’‘No mobile phones,’‘It is against the law to smoke in this enclosed space,’ ‘Do not consume food on this pavement,’‘Do not attach cycles to these railings.’ Here in the UK there is cautionary advice when crossing the roads. ‘Look right,’ ‘Look left’ and sometimes, ‘Look both ways,’ just to be sure. It could well

More texts by Nikita can be found on: by-nikita.com be a courtesy to visitors, but I am more inclined to think it is a longing and fondness for rules, passion for notifications and tribute to the saying ‘better safe than sorry.’ There are differences worldwide however. The Germans, Swiss and Belgians believe that rules become imprinted and stored in ones DNA with no need for ‘re.it.er.a.tion.’ In China, the public prohibition signs go alongside a uniformed figure to convey the idea of authority. This is very useful for English speaking guests who remain puzzled at clumsy, yet beautiful translations like ‘Do not disturb, tiny grass is dreaming.’ In Moscow, you will notice a clear absence of warning signs,

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except for the essential ones such as ‘Keep Driveway Clear,’ or ironic ones such as the public sign in Patriarchy Ponds park that warns ‘Do Not Talk With Strangers,’ with a clear connection to the book ‘The Master and Margarita’*. The scarcity of warnings signs is probably due to a lack of trust in the law, but how long can this liberalism last before the inevitable wave of modernization takes over? Hints to this brave new world ‘Pay Parking,’ ‘Bike Sharing Programme’ and the new phone application ‘GetTaxi’ are beginning to emerge. Nevertheless, the Russians like their British counterparts have been taught

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Community what one should do and what one should not do and this made them generally civil respectful and polite. I decide to take pictures of the British forbidden: we go from the slightly wordy ‘Please Keep Dogs Under Control At All Times And Clean Up After Them Using The Dog Bin,’ to the brief ‘Barbecues And Fires Are Prohibited.’ We are treated to ‘No Musical Instruments Or Amplified Sound,’ ‘Please Could You Keep The Noise Down Thank You’ and ‘Please Do Not Put Glasses On Railings!,’ (how do you put a glass on a railing?). At least people know where they stand. As long as it isn’t on the railings. Despite all these rules, London is one of the most popular destinations for tourists and settlers who cite reasons such as business opportunities and freedom as reasons near the top of their tick-box list, which everybody seems to have these days. “In London you are free to follow any trend you like,” I hear on numerous occasions. I think at this juncture it is only fair to

congratulate London on the political correctness of its prohibitions because I have yet to see a sign as direct, than one that I photographed in Vondelpark in Amsterdam last summer – ‘Welcome to Amsterdam. When It Is Hot Please Dress For The Body You Have, Not For The Body You Want. Thanks.’ There are now around 300,000 Russians in London and my point of concern is how do they survive this ruling pressure? Well perhaps many of the prohibited activities do not actually concern them? For example they generally do not cycle in London (because they don’t in Moscow) and they have little need for driving in London. They leave their dogs in Russia and postpone their barbeques for when they return to their dachas, (country houses). On the other hand, how can they feel comfortable with other areas like not being allowed to take a musical instrument to the park, being told

to keep the noise down outside a pub, putting their cigarettes ends in a bin and so on ad infinitum. Some of them go to English manner classes, which is peculiar yet admirable. Some others might follow the rule ‘rules are made to be broken…’ I don’t want to go that far. Perhaps the answer to my question appears on a sign (of course) written outside a pub in the capital: – ‘I Like To See The Glass As Half Full….Hopefully Of vodka!’ The moral is: It doesn’t matter where rules are taught, what matters is that rules exist. Without rules we cannot live together and let me be clear about this…people love rules! Rules rule! *The prohibition sign shows the silhouettes of Professor Woland, accompanied by his henchmen Koroviev and Behemoth. Underneath it is mentioned ‘Do not talk to strangers’ clear connection to chapter 1, titled ‘Never talk to strangers’ of the book “The Master and Margarita” by Bulgakov.

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ootball t the ‘F u o b a mation it re infor then vis n For mo ig a p m for bers’ ca om and .c s r e b Remem emem otballr www.fo hool tball Sc o m o F h hool.co Britis tballsc o o f h is rit www.b ber the Decem joined h t 6 y a l n Saturdootball Schoo ish Embassy British F r with the Brit n charity togethe ow and Russia morate the in Mosc bra to commethe First Flag Do nniversary of 100th a uce. bers’ mas Tr ootball Rememre t is r h C ‘F ar we World Wart of the UK’s otball School rld that As p e British Fo oss the wo t en acr , th project many schools remarkable ev cedented e r f is o p h t n e u n d s o morate er. In an hristma commehout Decemb s Spirit, the C t in the n a throug f the Christm dinary mome ing on the show o as an extraor soldiers fight own their Truce w rld War when neously laid dng carols, First Won Front spontaman’s land’, sa ll. So on Wester ns, met in ‘no played footba s - British weapo ged gifts and ing, two team ky Dom exchan oscow mornylatskoye Detso remember a cold Mll Club and Kr ish Embassy t nditions and Footba led at the Brit such bitter co assemb ho fought in all match. those wa simple footb to play

e c u r T s a m t s i r h h c t C a M l l a b t o o F R

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After observing a minute’s silence and a supportive speech from Her Majesty’s Ambassador Tim Barrow, the match began. This was the fifth match to be played by the British Football Club in the winter term and with the teams evenly matched all the players tried their hardest and produced some very entertaining football. MacCoffee kindly sponsored the event and kept the very enthusiastic crowd warm throughout the morning. There were many goals in the exciting 6-3 game, with the Krylatskoye team taking the eventual win. You can find a more detailed match report and photos on the British Football School website – http:// www.britishfootballschool.com/about-us/britishfootball-club After the match the British Ambassador kindly invited all the children to his Residence. They were treated to fish and chips and later took part in an art project, learning more about the Christmas Truce. British Football School Director, Richard Peers said: “The Christmas Truce reminds us that sports can bring us all together in difficult times, whether in wars or during the current international climate. All the children who played football today were enthused by actively participating in such a historic event hosted so well by the British Embassy. The British Football School and Astra Sport are glad support this event and give all the children from the Krylatskoye Detskiy Dom team an early Christmas present - a full football kit. We hope the whole experience will stay with them and everyone involved for a long time!”

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e Ro ndr

a Alex

turned left onto the main road and immediately ran into heavy traffic. My plan had been to miss rush hour and have a gentle run through north western Russia, up to the Baltics, as stage one of my road trip home, to Bretagne. The old adage about the plan going awry, the moment you make contact with ‘the enemy’ had never been more apt. The ‘enemy’ in this instance being the 400,000 other Muscovite drivers, all battling their way through Moscow’s notorious traffic. I sat in the car, glumly contemplating the snarl up in front of me. Not an auspicious start, to a journey I had contemplated over the last decade. After 20 minutes I crawled up on the culprits. Same old, same old. A fool, in a blacked out saloon, had rear ended another, right on a bust intersection. The two drivers, totally ignoring each other and the glares from the passing motorists, were sat on their respective motorcars awaiting the arrival of the police. Chain smoking their ubiquitous cigarettes, they blocked two of the four lanes, making it difficult for vehicles having to navigate the newly made chicane. Sometimes traffic in Moscow can be surprisingly free flowing and I appreciate, first-hand, the efforts made by Moscow City government to improve the flow through the megalopolis. Exclude the fact that Moscow’s roads cost an exorbitant ten

gan

‘Angleski’ Driver Heads for Latvia

times the price anywhere else. When it works, it works quite well. Equally, when it doesn’t, it is a disaster. One hour in and 2 klicks from home. Not only that, thanks to the marvellous traffic flow design, I am slowly moving 4 kilometres in the wrong direction, before making a U-turn in the morass and actually getting on my way. By the time I hit the MKAD I am feeling a little punch drunk and seriously questioning the wisdom of such a trek. Only another 4000 kilometres to go. The MKAD was taken on autopilot. As every other BDSM aficionado knows, and I defy anyone who chooses to drive in Moscow, to consider themselves anything but, the MKAD induces a stupor. Albeit one tempered with sheer terrifying moments of colossal stupidity, as Muscovites attempt to balance the dichotomy of a purchased driving licence and Darwin’s assertion that the quick survive. Combine drivers in over-powered cars with an innate arrogance and no imagination, perfected inept traffic management systems and an absence of law and you have the perfect recipe, for chaos and carnage. Blood pressure and heart rate dropping I picked up the Volokolamsk Highway, designated M9, and gratefully read the bold sign posts, only 900 kilometres to Riga. My long UK experience of motorway building and never ending repairs, prepared me for the miles of

stationary M9 traffic, due to road works with no evident workers. No complaints there. Clear of Moscow, I travelled freely, overtaken by pervasive German uber-saloons and pumped up SUV’s, flashing past with bright halogens and snarling tail-pipes. Choosing a more measured path, I reflected on the paradox of history, the Volokolamsk Highway and the omnipresent Audi, BMW and Mercedes. Alexander Bek’s 1944 novel, named The Volokolamsk Highway, described the resolute defence of Moscow, in the terrible slaughter of the Great Patriotic War. It became prescribed reading for the Soviet junior officer Corp and was taken up by revolutionaries globally. Rather than goading the Soviets to die for their country, it motivated them to make the intruder die for his. Not wishing to practise my Russian discussing violations, with entrepreneurial traffic cops, I arrived at a legal and leisurely pace at Volokolamsk. A small city, some 130 miles from Moscow, it is where Bek’s hero from the War had been stationed. It was also where the motorway abruptly stopped and I was onto regional roads…and then a few hours later…no roads. The path was definitely well trodden, evidenced by the long lines of articulated trucks in front of me. Deep grooves in the track surface had my car swinging up and down and side to side, as I climbed in and

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out of the ruts, in a manner more akin to a small boat on a large swell, rather than a go anyway 4x4. The weather was August warm and the sky was clear, cloudless and a beautiful blue. The passing countryside looked idyllic. Rolling hills of pasture, the ever present Russian silver birch trees and the occasional farm with small, dotted bales of hay and ancient tractors, working the fields became the norm. Had I not been stuck behind crawling KAMAZ and MAZ trucks belching noxious fumes and throwing up stones, I could probably have enjoyed the warm air. As it was, I had the windows firmly closed, and so entered into the popular road version of Russian roulette, as I attempted to pass overladen trucks on an overused track in an underpowered SUV. I learned very quickly that timing was everything and that one had to build up a certain level of courage and speed, to overtake each moving chicane and slot neatly in between the moving vehicles. I also learned, to my shame and chagrin, that not all drivers in Russia are the same. The professional truck drivers I was attempting to pass showed a degree of courtesy and care that was absolutely not present in the capital. I found that the KAMAZ driver would put half his vehicle off the track, giving me space to squeak past. Flicking my hazard lights in thanks, I could pass the convoys of

elderly wagons and maintain my way north west. The real danger came from on-coming traffic. Not so much from the fast moving executive types, as experienced closer to Moscow, with the benefit of skid-control and ABS and such-like. The real danger out in the regions was from the ‘on the edge of being out of control’ indigenous types. As I stood on the brakes of my car, I watched the oncoming Sovietera Zhighuli drift millimetres under my front bumper, it having failed to navigate the sharp bend, and plough sideways into the field on my right. Angels were watching, as the road was clear, apart from two would-be participants in a Russian tragedy. I swear the driver was swinging a bottle as he hopped out and surveyed his car. This may partially explain Russia’s dreadful road statistics and why my journey was no relaxing sojourn along The Corniche. Official figures in Russia are oft massaged to create a warmer feeling among the populace. One hopes the road traffic accident statistics are not so played with. Officially there are around 35 thousand deaths per year attributed to road accidents and approximately 275,000 injuries. Russia’s road traffic mortality rate is five times higher than the EU, twice the United States, higher than in other Eastern European countries such as Poland and Hungary, and higher than the average for

Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.) countries. I knew all this before I left. It was one of the reasons why I argued with my motor insurance company. Rather than paying a premium, I argued, I should be getting a discount, for the month I would be away. Surely their policies are risk based? Apparently not, so I ended up giving in. On the bright side, in absolute terms the number of deaths is less than both India and China. (Just don’t look at the population statistics too closely). Similar near misses occurred with frightening regularity as motorists put their lives in the hands of others, displaying a laissez-faire attitude to death. If the innocent managed to avoid a head-on collision with the idiot, then so be it. Such a relaxed stance to one’s mortality represents that Russia does indeed sit betwixt Europe and Asia, dipping her toe into either cultures. At around 6pm I arrived at the frontier in Pskov Oblast, heralded by long queues of heavy goods trucks, parked on the verge, making the last 10 kilometre approach to the EU border, a cautious one. Truck cab doors would open unpredictably, as drivers would hoist themselves without a thought into the middle of the road. Given that one and all vehicles bore Latvian number plates, the sanctity of life (or rather, the lack of it) had obviously spread beyond Russia to the citizens of the Baltic

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States as well. Perhaps the mind-set was intrinsically Soviet? Citizens of the former Union, tempered by the horrors of war and slaughter or incarceration by despotic leaders, could well show a devil-may-care attitude to life. Amongst the huge earth works and road building project of the Zilupe crossing stood a small queue of cars, both Russian and Latvian, waiting in front of the 1940’s-style Border Guards customs post, complete with chevron barrier. Guns and uniforms were much in evidence and I was minded of the bad relations between the diminutive Latvia and its bigger, belligerent neighbour. Surprise replaced the Government issue poker-face, when he saw my British passport. “Angleski?” Not many Brits pass this way. This, stage one, was easy. It rapidly went down-hill as I was at the tender mercies of the customs service. Stage two was, ostensibly, quite simple. I had to choose the red or green channels. I prevaricated and then, being identified as a Russian registered vehicle, directed to the Green channel. The customs officer approached me and demanded my papers: “Dokumenti!” I handed over the car-passport, insurance certificates and my driving licence. Nationality thus so identified and the honeymoon was over. What transpired next was typical by reputation and, for me, galling. The only satisfaction I realised was that both parties completed the transactions, equally frustrated.

It took two hours from arrival at the Russian side of the border to clear the final security check by the Russian F.S.B. Border Guards. These officials were, in complete contrast to previous, thoroughly professional, diligent and polite. The Guard officer insisted in speaking English and bid me a cheerful, good day. It was with some relief that I approached the Latvian border crossing and I expected a smooth, swift transfer into the European Union. To be honest, I was looking forward to evidence of the rule of law on the highways and a modern working infrastructure. What can I report? A rude awakening was my reward. It took me 4 hours to cross in Latvia as the local customs officers and border guards operated a ‘go slow’. 50 cars were held in 3 queues and, one by one, called forward. My patience wore thin and I approached the lead official, who strutted in front of the queuing vehicles, with his hands behind his back. Given the open hostility I had seen thus far, I should have expected the vehemence behind the ‘Shto?’ I was still momentarily taken aback. I had seen this type before, in the movies wearing Wehrmacht greygreen…not NATO camouflage. “What?” I responded, as loudly. “What is the reason for the delay, officer?” I was getting a tad fed up with the continual mistaken identity and thoroughly cheesed off with the waiting which had totally screwed my travel schedule.

“What are you?” What, I correctly assumed, what was my nationality. I waved my passport and reiterated my question. “Too many Russians” was the growled reply. Wow, I thought. There is some grief here, no question. Getting nowhere quickly, I ended up quoting him the inside cover of my passport “Her Britannic Majesty’s Secretary of State Requests and requires (my emphasis) ….the bearer to past freely and without let or hindrance.” That and a reference to ‘free passage’ in and through all EU nation states. All delivered in my best ‘received English’ accent. It was a cartoon ‘Englishman abroad’ performance, in response to the cartoon fascist border guard, and it worked. Not straight away unfortunately. My suggestion that the Latvians visit Dover or Portsmouth and watch UK Customs process 2,500 passengers and over 600 vehicles, disembarking a cross channel ferry, all inside of 60 minutes and learn a lesson or two, did the trick. The irritating Angleski was hauled out of the queue and, as the clock struck twelve, sent on his way with no niceties or smiles. It had taken 12 hours to cover approximately 600 kilometres. At that rate, I would be home in time for Christmas. Despite the best efforts of the Russian customs officer, the prize for niceties on the frontier went most definitely to Team Russia. I was now well behind schedule and still looking at a 3,000 kilometre drive as I left the Latvian ‘militarised zone.’

Community

Simon Green’s Moscow

he proclamation of ‘Peace on Earth and Goodwill to All Men,’ synonymous with Christmas and the New Year, was brutally shattered on the evening of January 6th earlier this year, the eve of the Russian Orthodox Christmas. I had been invited to the home of a close Russian friend to join her and a group of like-minded people to wine and dine with them- the latter of which I was asked to display my new found ‘metier’ by way of an exotic Indian dish. I was the first to leave the vivacious proceedings at around 10.30pm as I had a long metro ride home to the north of Moscow. I reflected upon the bonhomie of said evening during my final four-minute walk from the metro to my apartment, savouring the camaraderie enjoyed and how fortunate I was to have such lovely Russian and expat friends. I had my hat pulled well down over my face given that it was -21 with a bitter wind to boot, and my head bent down fighting the elements, when suddenly out of nowhere on the final pathway to my apartment block, two men were in front of me, and before I even had a chance to think, one of the rather large men had hit me so hard on the side of my head, that I was unconscious before I hit the snow ridden ground. When I came to, I remember feeling cold as I had been lying for what I assumed was a good few minutes in these potentially treacherous conditions. I then tried to stand up but struggled badly,

so I wiped the blood from my face and began crawling the last thirty meters on my hands and knees, without my glasses as they had been smashed in the melee. I eventually got inside and at that point realized I was minus my wallet with all its credit cards as well as my mobile and watch. As I was in no fit state to go home alone, I knocked on my neighbour’s door and they were wonderfully helpful, sympathetic and insisted on calling the police who turned up promptly. They insisted on carting me off to the local station for a statement; which began with the word any foreigner here is used to hearing: “documenta!” One of the ladies from next door accompanied me but as her English was somewhat limited, they called for a translator to assist. I have to say there was a marked difference between the men who first took me in and were rather indifferent to my plight, compared to the lady lieutenant and her side-kick who were the eventual interviewers and exuded far more kindness than their male counterparts. This afforded me a brief smile, that despite being at my most nadir and still groggy from the attack, I was still able to turn on a little charm to positive effect! They arranged to take me home as I was still visibly shaken up, and having thanked my neighbours profusely, went to my own apartment and had a first proper look in my bathroom mirror: ‘Oh my God, who is this guy? Hammer House of Horror will hire me immediately!’ The next morning it

seemed my face had made a big impact on Facebook, and messages of support came flooding in from all around the world coupled with the oft-repeated: “get to hospital and get yourself checked out.” I eventually capitulated, and with the assistance of a couple of close friends, went to one of the top private clinics in central Moscow, got xrays done and was subsequently cleared apart from a fractured rib and severe facial bruising. I’ve been asked by people: “is there an anti foreigner sentiment creeping in here?” My feeling is that there isn’t and that this was just a question of being in the wrong place at the wrong time, and a couple of thugs took advantage of the relatively empty streets due to the extreme cold that night. That said, there’s no doubt that we’re in tough times at present, and the majority of people here are decent and accept the fact that they must tighten their belts for a while. However, there’s always a group of ‘n’er do wells’ in any society who’ll do anything to make a buck by fair means or foul as I found out to my detriment. This horrific experience hasn’t put me off staying here, though I will re-evaluate my travel plans at night; and as people have pointed out to me in no uncertain terms, this could have had a far worse outcome. I was greatly encouraged by the hundreds of well-wishers everywhere with their prayers of support, which contributed enormously to my recovery and propagated my desire to carry on teaching here.

Irish Community

Eoin O’Leary, Ambassador of Ireland, Moscow Ambassador O’Leary arrived in Moscow in the autumn of 2013and has firmly established himself within the Irish Community with his welcoming and supporting attitude. In this interview, Ambassador O’Leary talks about his activities here, cultural issues and Moscow. How many Irish expats are there in Moscow? There are about 400 Irish citizens living in Moscow, and about 700 in Russia. The numbers vary quite significantly because we have a lot of short-term employees, particularly teachers. We have a well established and well organised Irish community including an Irish Business Club chaired by Avril Conroy. Avril was honoured by our President this year, when she received a Distinguished Service Award for her work with the Irish community in Russia. In the last year, the Irish Community in Moscow have established a Gaelic Football club, the Moscow Shamrocks. What are your main activities as Ambassador here? There are a number of activities that I undertake as Ambassador. One is to represent Ireland to the Russian government, which involves quite an amount of bilateral work and close cooperation with the delegation of the European Union and my EU colleagues.

Despite the current tensions, Ireland and Russia continue to build their bilateral relationship. The Joint Economic Commission is active and met in April. We had a visit of the Irish trade, scientific research and investment promotion agencies in November. Our trade has grown significantly over the last decade and, of course, the cultural links continue to strengthen. We have extensive cultural contacts; of which the most important are the annual St. Patricks Day Parade, which is organised by the Irish Business Club, and the Irish Week of events, which includes a film

festival, music, comedy and many other events. This year, in the region of fifteen thousand attended the Saint Patrick’s Day parade. Like every Embassy in Moscow, we have our consular and visa work. Thankfully, the consular work is not very difficult. The visa office in the Embassy issues about 17,000 visas a year. In recent years we have made it easier to get an Irish multi entry visa and we have also allowed the holders of most British visas to come to Ireland without a visa. This means that if you are Russian and have a British tourist or business visa and have used it in Britain once, you can come to Ireland without

Irish Community “...Russians are a bit more reticent; they smile less than in Ireland. But then Ireland, by any standards, is a pretty smiley place... It takes a little time to break the ice, but once you do, you find that people in Russia are quite similar to Irish.”

getting a separate Irish visa. We intend to introduce a joint visa system with Britain this year. I am also the Ambassador of Ireland to the five Central Asian republics which were part of the Soviet Union. Of course, as Ambassador, I am expected to keep my authorities informed of political and economic developments in Russia. Needless to say, this aspect has carried a heavy workload in the past year. The Embassy is very much an ‘Ireland House’ with diplomats, Irish and Russian support staff, an agricultural attaché, Irish and Russian staff in the Visa office and Enterprise Ireland, and Industrial Development Authority offices. We also have an Irish Food Agency office not far from the Embassy. Ireland also has Honorary Consuls in Saint Petersburg and in Almaty in Kazakhstan. Apart from all of these activities, there is a big social element. We have concerts and many different cultural events in the Embassy, which is the nicest part of the job. We had a children’s Christmas party for example, for the local Irish community. And, of course, the Embassy is also home for myself and Anne. What are the main differences between Ireland and Russia in terms of administration? The main difference is size and complexity The Irish system is small and more informal. That being said, our relations with the State and city authorities are excellent and we have found the interaction with businesses, contractors and landlords to be very good.

We find Russians very warm people once you get to know them and very helpful. They are rightly proud of their culture and language and greatly appreciate it when you show an interest in both of them. There are a lot of misconceptions about Moscow, particularly since the start of the current difficulties. People have an idea of Moscow that comes from a James Bond movie. In fact, Moscow is a very nice city, and Russia is a very nice place to travel, and live, in. Security concerns are equal or less than in most other cities in Europe. Public transport is excellent; restaurants are keenly priced. I would like to see Russia encourage the tourist industry, which would involve a more flexible visa regime, because the country has a wonderful range of attractions for the tourist. I’ve visited Nizhny Novgorod, Yaroslavl, Vladimir, St. Petersburg, Bryansk, Ufa, and a couple of Central Asian countries. Tourism in Russia has amazing potential and is something that needs to be encouraged. What are the main cultural differences between Russia and Ireland? Well people are a bit more reticent; they smile less than in

Ireland. But then Ireland, by any standards, is a pretty smiley place. I find Russia and Austria quite similar actually. We lived in Austria for 6 years. It takes a little time to break the ice, but once you do, you find that people in Russia are quite similar to Irish. We have very similar cultural interests, and a very similar European cultural background. What do you personally think about Moscow? We like Moscow, and we liked it from the day we arrived for a number of reasons. We love the Irish community, and have made some good friends here, and we have also made some good Russian friends. The diplomatic community here is very nice, and the city itself is full of treasures and wonders; every weekend we try to find a new one. We finally got to Tsaritsyno a few weeks ago, which was wonderful. Musical and cultural events in Moscow are of a very high standard. We have been to the opera and the ballet many times. We were recently invited to watch the first full performance of ‘Waiting for Godot’ in Russian, in a small theatre with 200 people near MKAD, and it was fabulous. This was a really good interpretation. So we really like Moscow and Russia, and I look forward to living here for a few more years.

Irish Community

Hug

he annual White Ball was held in the Renaissance Monarch Hotel on Saturday, 13th December. As usual, it was well attended with over 300 guests including Ambassador Eoin Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Leary with his wife Anne and the Embassy team. Many of our sponsors including PepsiCo, Guinness and Heineken, Tullamore Dew, Baileys and Bewleys Chocolates also attended as did members of the general Irish community and their colleagues and friends. Santa Claus dropped in and verified we had all been nice, not naughty, in 2014, although

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some may have escaped his radar. Gearoid O Muiri, a prominent GAA man and Gaeilgeoir provided a wonderful speech in Irish doing us all proud. Tony Watkins and the Smoke breakers provided some fantastic entertainment as did John Delargy and Streams of Whisky getting the crowds up dancing and singing till the wee hours. Thanks to the generosity of all of our sponsors and guests, we raised in excess of 310000 rubles for To Children with Love - http:// tochildrenwithlove.ru/ - enabling them to carry out their wonderful work with children left behind.

The

2014

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Russian Culture

Russian ‘Vertep’ Nativity Theatres Jo

ussia has it’s own version of the nativity plays, created in home theatres, by children in the months running up to Russian Christmas. Russian children have been creating these home productions here since the 18th century, however its traditions were lost in the 20th century, and are only now being rediscovered by a few Russian families. I visited one such family just before Russian Christmas, who treated me to a truly amazing home production. Amazed, I wanted to know how this production came about:

How did you make the ‘Vertep’? Irina: “Well, somewhere in the middle of July, mummy had an idea to make a Vertep, we found a big suitcase in grandma’s room full

of threads, materials, we dug into the suitcase and found many other things like beads. Then we found a book about how to make puppets, but the original templates were very large, so we made them smaller. We started with the shepherds. We found an old box and started to work to scale with what would look good with that size of box.”

How did you design the costumes? Kolya: “We got the inspiration for the costumes from the book, but mummy found some special material for our costumes, and we made them like Russian folk costumes.” The word ‘vertep’ in Old Slavic word means ‘cave’ or ‘secret place’ and so is directly related to the cave where Jesus was born. Vertep now means a folk Christmas

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performance, performed in a special box with the help of rod puppets and accompanied with songs and dialogues. Anya explained: “This is a traditional Russian folk show which wandering artists put on. They took a big box, which served as puppet theatre on their travels. They performed in villages, towns, at markets, wherever there was an audience, both before the Christmas period, and during ‘svyatki’, when it is possible to be entertained and be merry (according to the Russian orthodox Calendar). Usually the boxes were two-storey, but we couldn’t make such a large box because we don’t actually have anywhere to store it, but we found a way round this problem, by making it possible to move the figures from above, rather than from underneath.”

ISH Irish Community IR

Avril Conroy Chairperson of the Irish Business Club

How long have you been living in Russia? I have been living here for 20 years. What made you come out here? I came to work with an Irish company and enjoyed working and living here.

Our secondary mission is to help members of the local community who need us. We have given our continued support to local charities and is something we have taken very seriously over the past two decades. What was the situation like as far as the Irish in Moscow when you first arrived? Well, in the past there were a lot more Irish people here. Ireland played a major part in terms of breaking down the walls and opening up Russia to western business and culture. The size of the Irish community has fluctuated along with its make up, there are a new population of Irish here, particularly teachers which is fantastic for the community. It is true that when people think about Ireland they often think of Riverdance and Guinness. At the same time, I think it is important to understand that besides all of the fun, we have some really smart people in Moscow who play important roles. As a community I think we have a drive and an energy and we are consistent. It doesn’t matter that people come and go, the parades still continue, the Balls continue, the business breakfasts still continue, it’s not just reliant on individuals, we all have a will for them to carry on. The Irish here now work in a variety of businesses, in banking, in commerce, in teaching and culture. The one thing we all have in common is that we know that we are there to help each other. I certainly know that when one of us needs help, the call for help will be answered.

choices, to stay and weather the storm and face turbulent times, or leave. One thing I’d like to mention is the creation of a GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association) club here in Russia. This is an example of the introduction of something completely Irish here into this country and culture. The Moscow Shamrocks GAA Club started last year and is a small but dedicated group of people who actively promote Gaelic football, handball, rounders, hurling and camogie. There is now also a GAA club in Krasnodarsk, so it is definitely spreading. We believe that these are the sort of events that are extremely important to keep going, so that they become embedded into Russia and life here in Russia. The Parade itself is not easy to sustain, but along with the Emerald Ball we’ve kept it going for 22 years. Congratulations on being awarded with an Irish Presidential Distinguished Service award for 2014.

We are just like any other community. People will always have

Thank you, although there are a number of people here who have and continue to make the events work. The Irish Club could not function without the support of the Irish Embassy. We have done a huge amount of charity work over the past 20 years and all proceeds have gone to support a whole range of really amazing local charities. The GAA is a big step, if you look at the GAA in Africa, China and many different countries, it is run by the local people, not by the Irish. We’d like to see the GAA in Russia turn into a locally run and sponsored movement. All of these activities, like the Parade and the Balls, are not possible unless the support is continuous, and that’s what we do, we are serious and not just out to have fun, although that certainly is part of it.

To Contact the Irish Club in Moscow, see: www.moscowirishclub.ru

Tourism Ireland http: //www.tourismireland.com

Irish Film Festival: http://www.irishfilm.ru/2012/ru/index

Contacts for the Irish Community in Moscow: Embassy of Ireland, Moscow: www.embassyofireland.ru

Education Ireland www. educationireland.com

Think Ireland - an excellent resource for many aspects of Ireland (English & Russian): www.thinkireland.ru

What is the major mission of the Irish Club in Russia? Our main mission is to help Irish people who live and work here. There are not many of us; about 300, so we try and support everybody as best as we can. We organise events such as business breakfasts, social evenings, and two annual Balls, the Emerald Ball and the White Ball. We also arrange a children’s party at Christmas for the Irish community together with the Embassy. Our biggest event each year is the St. Patrick’s Day Parade. We are incredibly grateful to the Moscow Government who, for the past 20 years, have allocated us a main street for the parade, the only foreign country granted such permission to celebrate our national holiday.

Enterprise Ireland: www.enterprise-ireland.com (English), www.enterprise-ireland.ru (Russian),

Bord Bia (The Irish Food Export Board) www.bordbia.ie

Is there anything that’s going to affect the Irish community more or less than any other community?

European Irish Clubs/News: http://www.europeanirish.com Irish Week: http://2012.irish-week.ru/

Irish Week http://irishweek.ru/

Irish Community

ISH IR

Niall Carlton Head of Financial Markets, Equity Markets, ING Bank, Moscow

Yes, there is an Irish community here. It’s quite small, but tightly knit. We tend to go out quite a lot together. What do you do apart from, may I say, imbuing alcohol beverages? It would be incorrect to say that we don’t spend time drinking together. There are all the Balls that we organise, all the sporting occasions and charity events. Then there is Katie O’Shea’s and Katie O’Shea’s, which is very convenient as its just next to the embassy, and we go out to dinner quite a lot as well with Irish friends and colleagues. Are there more Irish expats here now than there were a few years ago?

Niall, you have been here a few years. Do you feel yourself to be part of the Irish Community, is there an Irish Community?

It’s hard to tell. There’s the same old guard, and quite a few young guys here now who I don’t know, but in all there seem to be more people here than there were seven or eight ears ago.

Is the general situation affecting the Irish community? I don’t think it’s really affecting the Irish community in any particularly negative way, any more than it is affecting any other national group, in fact I think that the Russians and the Irish tend to get on well together. Having said that; working in a bank I am exposed to all the volatilities in the markets. Over the past 8 years, I had been hoping that the economy would be pulled away from depending on oil revenues quite so much, but that really hasn’t happened. So we are susceptible to any market jumps, which happen quite regularly; about every 5 years. Are you thinking of moving on? I don’t know; my contract seems to be being renewed year on year. I’m happy here, and my family is happy here, which is the main thing. So I’m not in any rush to leave.

Hugh Mc Enaney How long have you been in Russia, why did you come? I arrived as a tourist a few times in 2006 & early 2007 after meeting a Russian beauty in October 2005 while on holidays in Vietnam. I came to live here in October 2007 to be with Olga & we got married in 2009. So ultimately, I came to Russia for love. Do you feel that there is an Irish community here? In what ways? After attending a number of Irish Club and embassy events when I first arrived, I met some Irish people.

I feel there is a community here for me. I’ve a few close Irish friends and, when Moscow’s crazy pace allows, we meet up. The Club organizes some very well attended events during the year, which are super opportunities for people to unwind and catch up. How is the Irish community shaping up to the situation we are in? In the current unpredictable economic climate, I’ve personally not felt much of a difference. I know some have found it a challenge but if we weather the storm, we’ll get to calmer waters all going well.

Irish Community ISH

David Pearce

and trainer, mainly with SME’s but had dealings in banking spheres, independent oil companies and through many of my previous contacts had such clients as the former Prime Minister of Kazakhstan and other high profile personalities. Apart from my consultancy and training work, clients use me to discuss more intense subjects, they would ask serious questions and require an honest answer to them.

Is the Irish community here important for you? You have been here a long time and are probably very well integrated?

“...Ireland was the first country during the Cold War to allow Aeroflot to be allowed land in its airports for refueling before the transatlantic flights.”

What do you do here? What I do now varies considerably from what I used to do when I first arrived in Moscow 14 years ago, then I was a consultant in tourism related projects and later in Property development and Sales. Prior to my arrival in Russia I had spent most of my working life in management of international tour operators, incoming and outgoing, hotel management and later owning two small hotels in Ireland. After the 2008 crisis I had to reinvent myself as a business consultant

I have been involved with the Irish Business Club now for over 10 years. My title – and it is the only title I have here in Russia – is Deputy Chairperson and Treasurer.

Ah, you are a very important person! Well perhaps not as important as if I was doing the same thing for Sberbank! But it’s important because we have to be transparent and do everything correctly. When I first came here there were probably well over a thousand Irish expats, involved in virtually every type of business. We had top people in many financial institutions and in many other industries. That has dwindled right down now. Whilst there is still a nucleus of people who have been here a long time, a lot of the newcomers are not going into high-level positions, and there are fewer fields into which they can enter into than before. Most of the input from young Irish

people now is in education, which is something they were enjoying up until November. Nevertheless, the feedback I get from them is that the biggest difference between teaching here and in Ireland is the respect that they get, whereas in the UK and Ireland, we have heard that there are many problems in that regard.

Why is it that Ireland is the only country in the world allowed to celebrate its National Day in Russia? How are Irish treated here in general? A lot of Russians don’t know, but it was actually an Irishman; Peter Lacy who won the Crimea for Russia, in a battle against Turkey in 1738. He was one of the Earls who had fled Ireland after fighting the English. He first went to France and then to Russia, and eventually became the governor of Latvia, as a reward for his services. He introduced non-confrontational fighting; something he had learned how to use effectively when fighting the English. He used these tactics, which could be described as almost guerrillawarfare type methods, in the Crimea. Another example of the close relationship between Russia and Ireland would be that Ireland was the first country during the Cold War to allow Aeroflot to land in its airports for refuelling before the transatlantic flights. In the early ‘90’s the mayor of Moscow saw the St. Patrick’s Day Parade in Dublin and after discussions with leading Businessmen and the Embassy here decided to hold the Parade. It has run, with the exception of 2 times following the crises’ in Moscow, consecutively and will also be held

Looking for Business opportunities? Check Moscow’s community free Classified Advertisements http://moscowexpatlife.ru/classified-ads/

Irish Community this year on the 14th March. Parts of the city will turn green!

And a certain warmness towards Ireland is still there in the present administration? It is still there. We have a couple of advantages over most countries in Europe. Firstly, we have a huge diaspora in America, so we have a lot of influence and feedback to and from the US. Secondly, we have had a good relationship with Russia going on for a long time and being non-NATO also helps. So when the Cold War came down, because Russians got used to having their Irish Coffees and buying their Duty Free in Shannon airport, it was only natural that Aer Rianta set up duty free shops in Russian airports when the right time came. Since then, we have had a major influence on business in Russia; managers of such Companies as Coca Cola, Pepsi, Kellogg’s and many others were Irish. We still have people in very influential positions.

How do you see the expat world in Russia panning out over the next ten years? I think it will really diminish. Many people will leave, for various reasons, contracts will not be renewed, the reliance on expat management is not as great now with the development of Russian management teams and international companies will only keep expats in key positions. Those who have married Russians will have a different agenda. Some have integrated well into society here and are well respected so will stay for the long road. Others are getting their children educated in Ireland because it’s cheaper than doing the same thing here. So in some ways the children will become a little bit more Irish than they would have been if they had been brought up here. I think in time, people will have to make a decision: is it worth staying here? One never knows what the future holds in Russia, we can all surmise that this or that is gong to happen, but we just don’t know. In the end of the day, you have to ask yourself: Is it worth it? From my own point of view, I have many wonderful Russian friends, whom I can have serious arguments with, but those bonds of friendship are not broken whatever the outcome of the argument. Whereas in other places if you have an argument over a football team for example, you can be disliked. Over the years I have looked at how Russians live, and how they adapt. They are very resilient people. The worst thing you can possibly do is to tell Russians that you are going to destroy them or their economy, as it will only make them more determined. Some of the international leaders need to get a little bit more information about what Russia is, and Russians are all about. For the Irish community here, I’d just like to say: to remain positive, to keep supporting the Irish Business Club and the charitable works that we do, because there is always somebody worse off than us. Let’s keep positive about it.

Irish Community ISH IR

Tony Watkins Tony Watkins is well known (amongst other things) for his band: ‘Tony Watkins and the Smokebreakers’. What has this ingenious Irishman been up to for the last two decades in Moscow?

When and why did you come here? I came to Russia for a change of life experience. I had been living in London before that for 10 years. I came here in the summertime, it was beautiful weather, and there were very attractive girls on the street. When I flew back to London my house had been robbed, I lost everything. I kind of decided that this was a sign for me to move, to do something different. Then I got a job here with Schweppes. That was 19 years ago. At that time, there were a lot of Irish here. The Duty Free at the airport; the supermarket; all the Irish Bars. The Irish were everywhere, there was a community here already. I wasn’t heavily into it at first, because as soon as I arrived in Moscow I was sent to St. Petersburg to manage an office there, where the Irish community was much smaller. Then I came back to Moscow, and started the band, and became much more involved in the community stuff. But it wasn’t a very organised sort of community then, it was a bit of a mix mash of different people. There were different groups that would do their own things, but over the last 12, 13, 14 years, principally under the leadership of Avril Conway, things have really come together. Because of the band, and being on the board of the Irish Business Club, my role was automatically cast as entertainment manager. I suppose that guarantees that I always play at the events; fortunately we are good enough to do that.

How did you name your band? The name of the band: Tony Watkins and the Smokebreakers, came about when we were rehearsing. Every one else in the band smoked apart from me. Every thirty or forty minutes, the guys would say: “OK, we need a ‘перекур’ (a break for a smoke)”, so when it came to work out what to call the band, it kind of automatically came out: Tony Watkins and the Smokebreakers. But I’ve

regretted this for the past 18 years, because it’s so long and you can’t remember it. We should have come up with something short like Abba, the Beatles, the Carrots or something. We have played, I think at the last count, in 52 Russian cities, so we’ve been everywhere. We were actually funded for four years by the Russian Youth Unity Party, who sponsored us to go to different regions to play concerts for different cultural events, basically a long weekend every month for four years. It was an amazing experience. I could write a book about all the adventures we had in some places in Russia. We have also played in Europe, we were in Ireland last year, and we are going back there this coming year, playing at a couple of festivals. The band has been evolving over all these years; so far Tony Watkins is the mainstay of the group. I also wrote a book, based on 9/11, called Love Roads. That was my big project and it got published in the West, 5 or 6 years ago, just when the last crisis happened, which was very bad timing. But the key thing about the book was that it was 20 chapters long and came out together with a 20-song album. Most of the people who have read it seem to have liked it. You seem to be really well integrated here, as do all the Irish I have met here. Why is that?, not all nationalities seem to be able to get into the fabric of this society as seemingly easily as that. I think generally, we Irish are a little bit more sociable, are perceived as being friendly. We don’t have as many barriers perhaps, we’re ready to speak to anybody. I think that those personality traits maybe worked well with Russians when they were coming out of this previous era. I know what I found from my personal experience, and I lived in Scotland, London and the US before coming here, I genuinely found that the Russians were the warmest people once you got to know them, the relationships were way stronger than those from the US, and I should know because I worked for an American company. I think that there

Irish Community

is some kind of mutual trust and goodwill between Russians and Irish.

How is the crisis affecting you on a personal level? This might be my last year in Moscow, simply because I am required to go somewhere else. When you build a business, and have pretty much done everything that you can do, in terms of margins, there is not much else you can do. If an opportunity comes up to go somewhere else, where you can make a difference, then that becomes attractive. Having said that, I am still not sure whether I really want to move. 19 years is a long time, and I like my life here, and to walk away from this probably will be the most difficult, heart-wrenching decision that I have ever made, in my whole life. Living in Moscow has been a fantastic experience. It has been absolutely an adventure, and most expats who have been here a long time have been through so many ups and downs together. Unfortunately I feel that we are in a bit of a down, and I especially feel sorry, not for the expats, but for this generation of Russian managers that have come through over the past 10 years. I wasn’t an expat before I came here. I made a conscious decision to move my life here, which was a very different from many expats who first came here 20 years ago. A lot of them were not necessarily the best people from their companies, it almost felt sometimes like: we can’t use Jimmy in Germany, so let’s send him over to Russia, where he can’t do a lot of damage. So my impression was that, the first generation of expat managers were really poor peers to look up to, that’s my personal opinion. I think a lot of rubbish was flushed out of the system in the crisis of 1998. The employers and staff that came post-1998 on the expat side were much stronger managers. I think that the next generation of Russian managers

that followed are much better balanced in terms of understanding the needs of selling and marketing. I feel sorry not for expats at all, many of them will go off and find positions elsewhere, I genuinely feel sorry for those Russian managers who are now likely to be very disillusioned with their lot for the foreseeable future.

Irish Community

ISH IR

Kat Clinch “I meet a lot of people from mainland Europe here, and they are all constantly complaining that Moscow is terribly expensive. I find that hysterical, because coming from Dublin, the prices in Moscow for food for example are about half of what they are back home.”

Where are you from, what are you studying here? I’m from Dublin in Ireland, I am a student at Trinity College on an exchange programme, taking Russian and Spanish. I’m with the ‘Russian For Foreigners’ students when studying Russian, but with the Russians who are studying Spanish. The Spanish lessons are very good for my Russian as well, because I am translating from Spanish to Russian all the time, and not through English, which is a bit of a challenge for me. But the teacher is very kind.

You live in the ‘obshezhitie’ (student hostel)? Yes, I was told horror stories about it before I came here from the people who had been on the previous exchange programme. I was expecting to be living in a cardboard box with cockroaches. I’ve actually got quite a nice apartment. They have set it up quite well, so that most of the foreigners are in the same part of the building. Because I’m on an exchange programme, I don’t have to pay for accommodation at all which is fantastic. The accommodation isn’t fancy, the kitchen is a bit grim, but all in all, I like it a lot!

What’s it like being a student here? Compared to my experience in Dublin, it very different – the area of the university is enormous in comparison to Trinity. Between the main building and the metro the general area is populated exclusively by students! This, when coming from Ireland, which is absolutely microscopic in comparison with Russia is quite impressive. The fact that here, it takes me about 25 minutes to get to the supermarket, and at least an hour to go anywhere, is quite a shock when in Ireland you can practically cycle from one side of the country to the other and it doesn’t take very long.

What about money? Is it expensive here for you, in comparison to what you’d be spending in Ireland? I meet a lot of people from mainland Europe here, and they are all constantly complaining that Moscow is terribly expensive. I find that hysterical, because coming from Dublin, the prices in Moscow for food for example are about half of what they are back home. Coffee here is just so unfathomably cheap, coming from Ireland. Maybe not in this ‘Shokoladnitsa’, but in general. I am one of the lucky bunch who have English as their first language. I can make a pretty good living here teaching English. I couldn’t do that in Ireland. My pay was better at the beginning of the year when I arrived; my money has been essentially halved with the falling rouble. But nevertheless, it is much easier to survive here than back home, where I live with my parents, and my living costs are still probably more expensive than they are here.

Do you find the teaching methods different here? It feels a little more formal here, in Ireland, there is a lot more input from the students in classes, but here it’s much more autonomous: fewer classes but a lot more homework and the teachers expect you to keep up. Trinity is a very good university, but here I feel that I am really being made to push myself and making a lot more progress in the language than I would have been able to do at home. In general, I am very impressed with MGU (Moscow State University) in terms of the courses and the teaching standards. For example, the Irish department is bigger here than the Irish department at Trinity! The administration here is just a nightmare – I have cried over paperwork! But nevertheless, they do want to make us comfortable here – when I arrived in I met by a girl from the university who spoke to me in fluent Irish. I was completely astounded by this. It would be rare to meet someone with that level of Irish at home, so to hear my

Irish Community native language was a great comfort when I was feeling about a million light years away from home.

What’s the social life like here? Do you feel safe? The kind of vibe that you get from Russian students here is quite different from the students in the part of Dublin where I lived, which is very Bohemian. I felt quite out of place here at first. In my first week, I was wearing white DocMartins, and a Russian student said: ”only skinheads wear those”. So that was quite a shock, I was then convinced that there were no Bohemian people in the entirety of Russia, but within a week or two I found lots of them. There are just so many people here, that it takes a little longer to find your niche. I was told originally that there were no interesting groups or societies in the university, but I’ve had great fun with the International Students Group, which brings together Russian students who want to get to know about other cultures, and obviously all the foreign exchange students, who want to get to know other foreigners, whose Russian isn’t maybe that great yet. There is a student bar called Kamchatka, which is a very well known international student bar. I found it almost bizarre when I went there; I was in Moscow but everyone around me was German, and we were listening to Spanish music. In general, once you find some people who you can get on with, it’s fine, especially with the Metro, which makes it easy to get into the centre. For me I feel safer here than I would in Dublin, maybe because I don’t pick up everything that people are saying! I find that there is a huge difference to the way that young people drink in Russia and the way that young people drink in my own country. Back home, people drink to get completely out of their heads, and it’s often quite unpleasant to go out. I find that here people drink socially and not to the point of complete incoherence. So for me, as somebody who doesn’t drink at all, it is pleasant to go out here and have a good time. I also feel that people don’t bother you if you’re obviously uncomfortable here – they can take a hint in Russia!

Wow! Everything you are saying runs contrary to the expectations that we have about being a student here! When I went back home for Christmas I was quite disturbed to hear what people were saying about Russia. One of the biggest issues was that a lot of my friends were under the impression that Russians are terribly, violently

homophobic. I know lots of perfectly happy gay people here, and none of them are scared to go out in the evening together, and be seen somewhere with their partners. They are all aware that attitudes are not quite the same as they are in Western Europe, but they are not afraid that they are going to be shot by a police officer or beaten up. It’s not until you get here that you realise just how very normal it is here. I was expecting a much greater level of culture shock. You can go to the supermarket and buy Nutella and Coke, you’re not going to die out here! You are not going to have to eat cabbage and potatoes all the time! You are not only going to drink vodka and encounter Cossacks in the street. It’s very much like a stretched out version of Dublin.

Do you want to come back here? I definitely see myself coming back here, but for us, the biggest problem is the visa situation. It is difficult for us and for our friends to come and go. If your family wants to visit you, they might have to wait for two weeks for a visa, by which time you might be dead. I actually was in hospital and if I had been anywhere else, my mother would have come out on the next flight to see that I was all right, but that’s not really an option here.

So you would you advise students to get health insurance before coming here? Yes, definitely. A lot of people don’t consider it, because they are young and healthy. However it is not until you actually get in front of doctor and realize that you have to communicate in a language that is not your own, that you realize how important it is to have everything sorted out. I have insurance, which covered me for Russian health care. I got appendicitis just before Christmas. I was taken to hospital in an ambulance. Things were not as comfortable as I would have liked them to be, mainly because of the language barrier, but the treatment was actually good. The lack of soap and toilet paper in the wards was not. What would have happened to me without insurance – I don’t know. The other thing I would like to say to any young Irish coming out here, is definitely register with the embassy. They are really friendly, there is always food and drinks, which is sometimes very welcome when you’re a poor hungry student. There is a really great sense of community here amongst the Irish, they even do Gaelic football training in the university, organized by Moscow Shamrock, which amazed me when I found out about it. Generally speaking, I have been surprised just how easy it has all been. I love my life in Moscow.

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Moscow

How Much Have Food Prices Risen?

plo ia Tu h p o S

Sophia Tupolev is a Russian-American who splits her time between Central West Moscow and Central Park West. In Moscow, she leads the Russian Conversation Club, which she founded in 2009. She is the Russia Representative for American Citizens Abroad, an advocacy group for American expats’ rights and is an active member of several community organizations such as the American Women’s Organization and the International Jewish Community. She can be reached at www.asksophie.ru for any questions about living in Russia. six months ago. The objective was to see how much prices had changed on the basic goods in my August 2014 ‘basket.’    Since the time of writing, data published by MosRosStat, Moscow’s arm of the federal statistics agency, confirmed that: ‘The cost of a minimum set of food in the consumer basket of people of working age, calculated on the basis of single consumption volumes, set in Russia as a whole for comparison of the level of consumer prices December 2014 was in Moscow 3918.12 roubles per month.’ That’s about 980 roubles per week for food. This month, I found that most basic household goods like sponges and soap remained at or near the same price. However, I try not to poison myself with cheap, chemical dish detergent – still a steal at 99 roubles – and the imported ‘eco-friendly’ brand that I use has doubled in price.   The imported tomatoes at a ‘budget’ type of supermarket were almost ten times more expensive than this summer, as were watermelons. Produce prices do depend on the season, and the change in the way some embargoed foods are imported might have affected the prices as well. Interestingly, Russia’s federal prosecutor made noises in January 2015 about cracking down on food inflation reported to be as high as 150% at some retailers.   Six months ago, certain imported foods became ‘unavailable.’ Even before this announcement, Russians on an average salary were not able to afford Parmesan at $100 per kilo imported from Italy, not counterfeited in Minsk. Also, to

Cost of basic food stuffs in Moscow August 2014 February 2015 Buckwheat 20 roubles / kg 43 roubles / kg Russian cheese 346 roubles / kg 399 roubles / kg Kefir 25 roubles / carton 37 roubles / kg Milk 43 roubles / carton 49 roubles / carton Watermelon 19 roubles / kg 129 roubles / kg Tangerines 11 roubles / 1 piece 11.29 roubles / 1 piece Apples 34 roubles / kg 71 roubles / kg Tomatoes 39.9 roubles / kg 299 roubles / kg Bananas 11 roubles / 1 piece 13.6 roubles / 1 piece Bottled water 17 roubles / bottle 23 roubles / bottle Bottom-shelf wine 159 roubles / bottle 199 roubles / bottle Cheapest toothpaste 36 roubles / package 59 roubles / package Dish soap 98 roubles / bottle 99 roubles / bottle Laundry detergent 73 roubles / small package 77 roubles / small package *The 2015 numbers in this chart reflect the prices for an equal quantity of goods at the same location they were purchased in 2014. This is a representative sample and not a scientific analysis.

n August 2014, I lived on 1000 roubles for one week in the centre of Moscow and wrote about it for this column. This budget included only transportation (the metro), food (very little), and entertainment (none). It worked out, apart from the deleterious effects on my mood and productivity, which plummeted faster than the crashing rouble did in December. By the December printing of the experiment’s results in the winter issue of Moscow Expat Life, I found myself qualifying the findings with, “— but this was before the economic crisis.”   In February 2015, I retraced my steps to the low-cost food retailers in Moscow and re-priced most of the products and household goods that I had bought

Moscow

be fair, many European countries protect their domestic production in various ways. Personally, I snapped last week at Heathrow and bought a block of Parmesan which I personally transported to my fridge in Moscow. Even though bringing in embargoed food in small quantities for personal use is legal, I felt like a smuggler. Factoring in the price of the flight from London, and admitting that this was my own choice, it was the priciest Parmesan I have ever eaten. â&#x20AC;¨â&#x20AC;¨In the city, using my refillable Troika card for public transportation has kept my costs down while the price for single bus and subway rides have increased. Like in most other cities, users have clear disincentives to buy single rides in Moscow. To my chagrin, coming back into the city from Vnukovo airport on the Aeroexpress now costs 450 rubles, up from 320, and the trains still only run every hour in the mornings when I arrive, grumpy, on a red-eye. I am told that the shared minivan taxi to the end of the red metro line is still the cheapest way to go. A popular mobile phone taxi app has increased rates from 999 to 1500 roubles from the airport, but I found a regular taxi service for 850. As ever, Moscow forces its residents and visitors into two choices. The first is to pay a premium for anything they touch for a life bearing some semblance to Western convenience. The other is to twist, turn, and experience considerable discomfort scrounging up the affordable options in the city. Not to mention, the time spent finding reasonable prices for goods and services in Moscow will probably cost more than any kopeks saved. Nebulous pricing policies, sporadic regulation, and a volatile rouble all make smart budgeting an onerous task. Sure, living on buckwheat, kefir, and bananas will save you money anywhere in the

world, but why would anyone want to do that? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d rather eat fresh berries, quinoa, and Italian Parmesan. None of which I will find in Moscow at a reasonable price anytime soon, if at all.

Culture

Learning s

one

J Luc

By Your Mistakes

am regularly asked by Russians why it is that so few foreigners speak Russian. Even Expatriates who have lived in Russia for a decade, sometimes even for two decades can struggle to string a simple sentence together. Yet they somehow manage to get by. English is pretty basic, at least up to a certain point – there are no genders, few nasty noun declensions or verb conjugations; you just learn a few words, throw them together & off you go! The tricky part is when you get on to pronouncing place names such as Slough, Leicester, Fowey or Loughbrough, or the various idioms & slang which are in constant use, if you catch my drift. That’s before trying to getting to grips with all the different accents! Russian on the other hand is a different kettle of fish – you need to memorize copious amounts of grammar merely to make basic conversation (for starters there are 108 endings for regular Russian nouns, and the majority of them don’t follow the standard pattern; at least that’s what it feels like when you’re trying to get them to stick in your head)! In my experience, Russian is badly taught at the best of times with far too much emphasis put on the grammar from day one, which usually involves a list of noun endings being shoved under your nose. There is of course no getting away from the fact that you WILL need to study the grammar at some stage (unless you really want to sound like a Tajik gasterbaiter) but contrary to popular belief, Russian actually does become easier once you reach a certain point. For a country of its size, there are relatively few regional accents; what you hear in Kaliningrad will be almost identical to what is

spoken in Kamchatka, Kalmykia or even Kazakhstan, and another plus point is that Russian is an extremely standardized language, meaning that speech is extremely uniform. The main problem, however is that most foreigners don’t get anywhere near the level where life becomes easier! When learning new languages, I have always been a believer in learning from your mistakes (учиться на ошибках). Sure, you’ll make a few errors along the way, but you’ll certainly pick up a considerable amount more than if you stay silent. My first comedy error was with the word ‘ничего’ which it turns out has two meaning in Russia – ‘OK’, and ‘nothing’. When studying in Moscow in the early 1990s, I was placed with a ‘family’, which in practice meant a babushka in her 60s with a heart of gold who would cook me breakfast every morning and chat away, as my Russian was rather limited back then to what we had learnt in our first two years at university. One morning she brought me a bowl of porridge and asked me “ничего?” (is it OK)? The porridge was great, and I wanted to reply that it was better than just OK, and I replied “лучше, чем ничего!!” – what I had in fact said was that it was ‘better than nothing’, i.e., not good at all. Naturally she took offence & tried a spoonful from the saucepan & realized that it was fine, so couldn’t comprehend why I didn’t think that it was up to scratch. Only when I reiterated that it was ‘очень вкусно’ (very tasty) that she realized I had made a simple – albeit crucial error, and we were both able to laugh about it once she’d explained what I’d actually said! It can also work the other way; especially when translating

literally. When a Russian is feeling unwell, they will say “Я плохо себя чувствую”, which they all too often translate as “I feel myself badly”. When I explain that they have in fact said “Я плохо себя трогаю”, they often blush a exquisite shade of red, especially the females! Other East European languages throw up some classics – arguably one of the hardest languages to learn is Estonian, yet the number 2,000 is easily remembered since although it is spelt ‘kaks tuhat’, it is pronounced ‘cocks too hot’, and not to be outdone, 12 months is written ‘kaksteist kuud’ yet sounds more like ‘cocks taste good’. Relatively few outsiders ever master much more than the basics of Finno-Ugric languages, and a quick glance at Hungarian tells you all you need to know, so you can give up before you even begin. But delve a little deeper and you’ll be delighted to discover that ‘cheese’ is ‘sajt’ but pronounced ‘shite’, so consequently a Hungarian wanting to order a cheeseburger would ask for a ‘shiteburger’, even if it is spelt ‘sajtburger’. It doesn’t stop there; ‘youth’ is written ‘ifjúság’ but pronounced ‘if you shag’, a kiss is ‘puzsi’ (yep, you guessed it – pussy), ‘quality’ is ‘minőség’ (me no shag) and not to be outdone, a wooden spoon is ‘fakanál (you’re catching on fast – it’s ‘fuck on her’)! However, as expected, we’ll save the best ‘til last – if your business takes you down to Kazakhstan, don’t be surprised when ordering a coffee if the waiter asks you if you’d like some ‘жаксы кант’ (jacksie cunt), which innocently enough is simply ‘good sugar’. Remember that one next time you’re in Astana, or just ask for ‘сахар’!

Real Estate

Known unknowns –

or uncertainty is a certainty

Tim M

illard

e all crave certainty in life and even the most open-minded person has resistance to change. The current forces at work in Russia are therefore baffling for many of us. Even if the root causes are deceptively simple. The devastation wrought on the rouble and which is spreading to the broader economy stems (almost) entirely from sanctions and the oil price. There are contributing factors, such as the missed opportunity to diversify the economy during the fat years – but these are the principal catalysts. The logical conclusion is that the timing and the pace of any recovery will also depend on the future path of these 2 factors. Unfortunately neither of them is even remotely easy to predict. 5 minutes of research will allow you to find forecasts of

the average price of oil (Brent) for 2015 of varying anywhere between $45 and $70, and there are commentators even outside of that range. There are some truly alarming predictions for how low the oil price can go supported by an array of conspiracy theories focused on the collusion of the US and Saudi Arabia to the detriment of Russia. There does seem to be a general consensus however that there will be a sustained period of low oil prices by the standards of recent history that will last at least 18-24 months. Beyond that increases are broadly expected although not to the levels to which we have become accustomed. Sanctions are an entirely political decision and are therefore at the whim of the ruling elites in the EU and the US. However – experience tells us that US sanctions, once in place, enjoy a surprising amount of inertia and are therefore likely to remain in force for an extended period of time. EU sanctions, in contrast, have a natural shelf life and require unanimity to extend, either in time or in breadth of effect. They are likely therefore to be more

short-lived, particularly in a period of continuing economic difficulties and uncertainties, mostly in the Eurozone. Russia in the past has proved itself particularly adept at playing on the divisions in the EU and some of the current political currents, for example the new Greek government, play even more to this strength. On the face of it EU sanctions seem to be a more endangered species than their US cousin, but the ongoing conflict in Ukraine and the potential for escalation should not be underestimated – and nor should German resolve, particularly in the guise of their Chancellor Angela Merkel, not to allow the perceived Russian adventures in Ukraine to go unnoticed, unchecked and unpunished. Uncertainty then is the order of the day and this is the biggest enemy of investment. You may be surprised to hear, therefore, that I remain relatively upbeat in my assessments of the prospects for investment in Russia and for the Russian Real Estate market (my chosen specialized

subject) over the short to medium term. Yes I see very soft sentiment and therefore a weak investment environment for the next 6 months, and perhaps 12, but beyond that I expect improvement and potentially quite a rapid one. In most real estate sectors, with the exception of offices where a supply overhang will mean a recovery 12 months after other sectors) there is a structural undersupply. Current vacancies will quickly evaporate as economic activity improves on the back of a better macro environment, long awaited diversification of the economy and the extraordinary resilience of the Russian consumer. Many expats seem to believe now is the time to desert the Russian market. For this reason as well as the ones above I see plenty of opportunity, even if a little patience is required in the short term. Addendum: As I finish writing this the RTS is down 2.5% on the day, oil is down 2% on the day and the ruble is heading back towards 70 vs USD. However – my underlying optimism holds!

Education

Opens New Campus in North Moscow License 77 003502 Reg . 030441 Moscow Depar tment of Education

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The British International School

Education

BIS

has opened a new 3,500 square meter campus, with spacious well-equipped classrooms, modern laboratories, computer room, art room, library, multi-purpose conference room and a large sports hall. Here are some photographs from the schoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Open Day, which was held in the new school at the end of January.

Education

Denis Kelly School consultant

This is a great new building. What does it mean for the school to have such a building? Currently the school is operating according to the National Curriculum for England for children aged from 3 to 18 years old: in three buildings located at the metro station “Voikovskaya” as well as in two buildings at the metro station “Novoyasenevskaya” and in the building near the metro station “Profsoyuznaya” which was built in 2007 for children aged from 4 to 12 years old. The new building is located at Priorova str, 9 building 1 and has 3,500 square meter that allows the teaching of middle and high school children in the most modern conditions. Earlier the premises at the metro station “Voikovskaya” did not allow us to accommodate everyone, the senior classes children in particular. The new building contains all necessary facilities for children’s high-quality education: spacious well-equipped classrooms, modern laboratories, computer room, art room, library, multi-purpose conference room and a big sports hall with all necessary sports equipment. The new building has already become an accredited examination centre for Cambridge International Examinations. In the new academic year we began trainings under the classic British A-level Programme. In addition, in the south of Moscow, we are operating according to the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IB Diploma Programme). According to our IB graduates’ exams results, the school is one of the 5% of the best schools around the world. In the future, we will continue teaching the IB programme, and the A-level programme in the new building.

The British International School is the only international school in Moscow, which operates on these two programmes in secondary school. Thus, parents and children have the opportunity to choose the most suitable education programme.

What is the cultural diversity you can see now in the British International School? The school is an international compound. There are children of 65 nationalities studying in our school. This is something that we welcome. The number of students from Moscow has currently increased and now makes about 30 per cent. It will still grow, but I think that Moscow, as well as London and other world capitals, will keep always developing dynamically. We will always see the reflection of this multinational world in our schools, because we offer international programmes of education.

Mr. Kelly, you’ve worked in the field of international education for many years. What is special about this school, these teachers, these children? The mere fact that we really are a truly international school is an important factor. A year ago, we celebrated our 20th anniversary at the Moscow International House of Music. We organised a children’s gala concert. When we were making up all the spots together and prepared for the concert, we had no idea how big it would become. The programme was structured to reflect cultures from all over the world, because we teach children from all over the globe. Students that we admit have an obvious natural thirst for knowledge. There is a great

desire to learn from students from different countries. I think this is also due to their experience in integration of different cultures. I’ve lived here for a long time, my wife and family are here, and throughout all these years, we have not seen any conflicts because of nationality. It is really amazing and confronts my experience working in schools in some other parts of the world.

How do your teachers and staff get along with parents? This is an important point, and it comes down to issues of staff recruitment and formation of a proper relationship to their working environment. We emphasize from the very start the importance of integrating into the local community, from the initial appointment up to induction. We do not invite to Moscow people who do not want to come here. This is principal. When teachers come to us, we explain to them that this is a different country and a different culture. And it is the intersection of East and West, whether people want to accept it or not. This is a part of our responsibility – to make sure that everybody understands that. I think it works. Of course, Moscow has completely changed over the past two decades. This is a different city today. Therefore, it is now easier in this regard. In addition, we try to encourage people to find time for a cultural life. Many teachers like the opera, museums, galleries, which are here in great numbers. I think teachers consider Moscow an impressive city. The school works steadily. The most important thing for us is children enjoying their studies in our school and receiving a high quality education. In this case, their parents are happy. We succeed in it.

Business Insights

Education

he one and only Native English theatre for children! Providing meaningful language exposure to children and their parents. Come and have some magical fun with our crew of British actors, musicians and Li Chi, the famous sand artist. Theatre director

Martin Cooke brings classical childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stories to life with vibrant storytelling, charming puppetry, enchanting music and of course a touch of magic sandart. All our shows are cozy, homely, friendly and interactive! And we always keep the needs of small children in mind.

We host our performances in various locations. Check details of each event to find the location. We are very happy to stage our performances for organisations at the location of your choice and we even do private parties! Our mailing address is: flyingbananamoscow@gmail.com

Flying Bananas!

Education

Charity

International Women’s Club of Moscow Winter Bazaar 2014

Saturday, November 29th was a cold and grey day in Moscow, but the atmosphere at the IWC Winter Bazaar could not have been warmer or more colorful!

rs. Afrah Alfaddaghi, President of the IWC, is very proud that, thanks to the heart-warming support of Moscow’s diplomatic and business community, the 26th edition of the Club’s annual event was a great success: “This year a total of 70 embassies supported the Winter Bazaar – a fantastic achievement! A special thanks goes to the embassies of the Netherlands, Belgium, Italy, Poland, Hungary, Ireland, Greece, Japan,

Kuwait, Slovakia and Turkey, our top contributors, to Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel for hosting the event and to GlavUpDK for their ongoing valuable cooperation.” Embassies sold products typically from their country at their Winter Bazaar stand, and over 4,000 people – both expats and locals – joined for a unique ‘shopping from around the world’ experience with interesting items from all continents and various exotic dishes. This year’s cultural program exceeded expectations

Charity

with amazing dance and music performances, and a wonderful fashion show. Via the raffle more than 280 prizes were distributed – a guarantee for a lot of excitement! The excellent result of this year’s Winter Bazaar was only made possible with the combined support of all embassies and numerous businesses in Moscow, and therefore we would like to thank all those who supported this charity event.

The 26th Winter Bazaar strengthens the IWC’s tradition of international friendship, cultural exchange and solidarity: all proceeds raised by this event go to over 30 local charity projects supported and monitored by the Club. The Winter Bazaar is the largest contributor to the IWC’s fundraising efforts, but several other charity events are organized throughout the year. We are already looking forward to the next one!

Sport

Moscow Dragons RFC Moscowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only international rugby club For more information: web: www.mdrfc.com twitter: @mdrfccom email: pr@mdrfc.com tel: +7-903-104-4496

Sport

ver the last five years since our founding in 1997, we have played in no less than 50 countries. At home we play our rugby in the Moscow League, but we tour as often as 10 times annually, sometimes within Russia, and often overseas. Over the coming few months we’ll be touring in Istanbul, taking a trip to the clubs around the Golden Ring, playing some beach rugby in Yaroslavl, whilst managing to fit in a full programme at home. We welcome players (men and women – our ladies 7s team have a full programme too) of all ages – our youngest players are still in their teens, and our elder statesmen are well into their fifties. We train on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 8pm., throughout the year. We have a regular social programme and there’s a good chance that most weekends there’ll be something going on, perhaps just getting together to watch an international match. Our annual Charity Ball is a highlight of the Moscow social scene and our summer boat trip has a legendary reputation.

Fashion

The Art of Personal Packaging The Essential Concepts By Ree van Dijk , Fashion & Personal Stylist ReeVanDijk.com

Fashion

hether you consciously acknowledge it or not, image is important. You visually telegraph mes-sages about yourself to others through your overall image and personal style. So it is no surprise that proponents and practitioners of personal branding advocate purposeful personal packaging. Your image is intrinsic to how others perceive you, and thus how they treat you. Therefore, control-ling the impact of your appearance on others can be a powerful tool in achieving your goals. Whether you are a professional seeking an effective career-marketing tool, or simply an individual who wants to shine, the art of personal packaging is an authentic method to get you noticed for all the right reasons. To become proficient in this art you must subscribe to these essential concepts:

There’s No Image Without Looks It can be quite easy to dismiss your physical appearance as a superficial strand when contemplat-ing a profound response to the question of ‘Who am I?’. Yet it is your physical characteristics cou-pled with your choice of personal adornment that make you identifiable to others. So essentially, in the eyes of the others, your packaging is you. A common misconception is that image and looks are one and the same. Your image is others’ mental perception of you and your looks or physical appearance is one of several factors that influence that perception. Effective personal packaging marries your physical appearance with other important aspects such as your personality, lifestyle, convictions, and goals. So to project a favourable image you must develop and maintain the look that is right for you.

You Clothes are Talking About You Because others view your personal packaging as an expression of who you are, how you look and

present yourself speaks volumes about you. You send an abundance of nonverbal messages via the silent language of clothes, body language, and overall appearance. Others receive these mes-sages and use them to make visceral assumptions about you; your health, wealth, credibility, trustworthiness etc.

They’re Also Talking to You More often than not when you look good you feel good. You feel more confident and inspired, and may even experience improved performance. The reverse is also true; if you feel your appearance is not appropriate to context then your confidence falters. This happens because you are also re-ceiving those nonverbal cues sent out by your appearance. Science refers to this as ‘enclothed cognition’; a term coined by Adam D. Galinsky, a professor at the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University.

A Dress Code is Required A personal dress code is a fixed requirement of personal packaging. You have to decide what you want your appearance to say about you and then develop guidelines to help you make the right self-packaging choices. Your personal code will guide your choices in all aspects of life; from pro-fessional to leisure wear. Eventually, you will find your signature style; a particular look that people readily associate with you. It is important to note that there is no single best style; if it was that simply a generic do’s and don’t list would suffice for everyone. The best style for you is purely dependent on you; your preferences and your goals. Your objective should be to align your appearance with who you are on the inside. Of course, you can look to others with similar professions or interests to inspire your choices, but ultimately your choice in personal packaging should present a genuine image of you.

Motoring

Motorsport in Russia

In Soviet times, motor racing did not enjoy a huge amount of public support in Russia, and developed mainly due to the activities of individual enthusiasts. The most welldeveloped motorsport discipline in the Soviet Union was the rally. Soviet ‘Lada’ teams with their Lada cars appeared for several years in the World Championship (classical) Rally (WRC). By the late 1980s they created a sports team at the Kama Automobile Factory in the city Naberezhnye Chelny. From the early 1990s onwards, dozens of Russians drivers began to take part in various foreign autoracing competitions and were able to show satisfactory results at races and rallies. By the 2000s, the team ‘KAMAZMaster’ was the strongest team in the rally trucks championship, and competing with it in many cases became virtually impossible. From 1996 to 2011 the team was a seventime champion of ‘Dakar’, two-time World Cup winner, and winner of the

62 62

Rick

Minn

title of ‘Best Russian Racer’ in 2003. KAMAZ Master has made significant progress, thanks to a successful policy to attract sponsors. The first major partner of the team in 2005, became the bank VTB. In the 2007 – 2008 rally season, we saw the debut of star Russian rally driver E. Novikov. He helped bring the WRC and other rallies back into the spotlight of Russian fans and sponsors. He signed up with Citroen in 2009 for a full season. After a year off, Novikov returned to the World Rally Championship in the 2011 season with M-Sport. Novikov scored a few podium finishes and stage wins, but most importantly, he opened the way for other Russian drivers to take part in European and World Championship Rallies. In 2010, Vitaly Petrov made his Formula 1 debut. Thanks to Novikov and Petrov, Russian motorsport has benefited from a huge popularity boost. Russian and European brands have begun to take interest in sponsorship and marketing through motorsport in Russia.

Health

The Social and Psychological Adaptation of expats in Moscow: Most expats in Moscow confront various social and psychological difficulties. Sometimes they can cause serious mental health problems. What should they do to prevent this? We spoke to Dr. Alexandra Yaltonskaya, psychiatrist and psychotherapist of European Medical Center (EMC). How do you know that mental health care is needed?

might be particularly useful when young people face the need to adjust to a new school and make new friends in foreign country.

People should consider a visit to a mental health provider if they experience high levels of anxiety, depression, insomnia, and an inability to accomplish their routine everyday tasks. Quite often expats are unable to adjust to life in Moscow, and cannot communicate with local people. Stressful work and marital problems are other common problems.

How can EMC specialists help expats with social and psychological adaptation? First of all, when a client comes to our clinic we conduct semistructured diagnostic interviews to establish the cause of the problem. Then we offer several treatment options. Sometimes pharmacological treatment can be effective, other times we advise our patients to go on a course of cognitive-behavioral or other types of therapy. Psychotherapy nowadays is very effective; it helps to get to the root of the problem, overcome

What is the biggest advantage of mental health care in EMC? Our biggest advantage is that we present individualized help to our clients and their families. We practice hands-on based medicine when choosing the strategies for psychopharmacological and psychotherapeutic treatment. All of our staff speak fluent English. emotional challenges and to start a happy life in the new environment. We can also offer couples therapy to relieve strain and bring back harmony into relationships.

What about mental health programs for children and teenagers? We can offer individual and group psychotherapy to manage young peoples’ psychological problems. We run a course of communication skills training which

Please give our readers a few pieces of advice that can help maintain their mental health. Be curious, go outside, explore the city, communicate with local people, eat well, do sports, enjoy the opportunities to get acquainted with new culture. If you notice any changes in your mood, sleep pattern or experience any other psychological troubles – don’t wait, come to the EMC Psychiatry and Psychotherapy Clinic, we will be very happy to help.

Please contact: Group of Companies European Medical Center (GEMC). 35, Schepkina street, Moscow, +7 (495) 933-66-55 (24/7). www.emcmos.ru/en/

The Atlas Medical Centre

he recently opened Atlas Medical Centre invited selected guests from the expat/ Diplomatic community to a welcome evening and presentation to meet the medical staff and view the extensive facilities of the clinic and the group. Short speeches explained the innovative and cutting edge medical work that the centre and the Atlas Group can now offer in Moscow including DNA testing to detect the presence of hereditary diseases and mobile blood testing. Guests were taken on a tour of the impressive facilities and then had the opportunity to meet the Directors whilst enjoying delicious (but healthy!) canapĂŠs.

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Health

For People Who Suffer from Pollinosis

n Russia, people who suffer from pollinosis symptoms do not look forward to the arrival of warm weather in the end of March-beginning of April. Pollinosis (hay fever, spring catarrh, seasonal rhinitis) is a seasonal disease triggered by hypersensitivity to pollen. In this article I will cover some of the issues involved and offer simple recommendations that will help you to live through the pollen season as comfortably as possible. Pollens are tiny particles, which are invisible to the naked eye, but contain large amounts of allergenic proteins. They can be carried by both insects and by the wind. It is the pollen of wind-pollinated trees (alder, birch, willow etc.), which causes the most problems, as trees produce large quantities of pollen that can be carried by the wind over long distances. Typical pollinosis symptoms are sneezing, watery nasal discharge, frequently also asthma attacks, watery eyes, unpleasant painful feelings in the mouth and throat, and sometimes swollen eyelids. Hay fever affects about 0.5-15% of the population. All it takes is for 10-20 pollen grains to be present in a square meter of air to set off a hay fever attack. Weather conditions greatly influence pollen concentrations in the air. Generally speaking, the drier and windier the weather becomes, the more pollen there is in the air.

It is essential to consult an allergist two or three weeks before your seasonal problems usually begin so that you can be prescribed the right prophylactic drugs and receive individual recommendations. Early specific anti-allergic (desensitizing) therapy, which traditionally includes second or third generation antihistamines is also very useful. Prophylactic drugs should be taken until the end of the pollen season. If you experience lachrymation (watery eyes), photophobia (hypersensitivity to light), a sense of ‘sand’ in the eyes, itching eyes, nasal congestion, sneezing, then using eye drops and nasal sprays

is recommended. If you have more severe reactions such as coughing, laboured respiration or swelling, do not delay making a visit to an allergist. The doctor will assess your health status and adjust your treatment. Pollen is something that is carried in the air, so it affects you whenever you are outside, however pollen can also get into the air inside buildings fairly easily, through open windows and doors. When the pollen season arrives it is crucial to reduce contact with pollen. The vast majority of people with hay fever have ‘cross’ allergies with food products. We recommend that you maintain a diet that excludes

Follow these simple recommendations: • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Don’t leave the city unless you have to during the pollen blooming season. Stay at home as much as you can, do not open doors or windows and sleep with your windows closed. Install an air conditioner with air filters (make sure the filters are regularly replaced) in your apartment. The heaviest concentrations of airborne pollen are early in the morning and on dry and hot days, so it is strongly recommended to avoid going out at such times. After coming back inside, change your clothes. Air your room after rain, at night or when there is no wind. Shower at least twice a day. Also take a shower every time you come back from outside (make sure to wash your hair). Regularly rinse your nose to wash away allergens especially after returning from outside. Preparations made with seawater are widely used for this. Close your car windows when you are driving, especially in the countryside. Wear eye shields. Do not use drugs and cosmetics that contain plant ingredients. Be careful with homeopathic drugs because they often contain a variety of plants. Undergoing any form of surgery or being vaccinated is out of the question during the blossoming season. Avoid serous psychological and emotional stress and heavy physical work. Do not eat foods that may cause cross-food reactions, especially during the blossoming season.

The Russian midlands have three main hay fever seasons: • Spring, when trees (birch, alder, hazel, oak, ash, etc.) are dispersing their pollen. • Early summer when grasses (hedgehog, cat’s-tail, fescue etc.) disperse their pollen. • Late summer and early autumn when weeds (wormwood, orach, plantain, ambrosia) disperse their pollen.

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Ildus Fatkhutdinov, physician, CEO of ATLAS Medical Center

Health Calendar of blooming months in Central Russia Blooming calendar in central Russia MONTH

III

VII

VIII

TREES Alder Nut-tree Birch Salix Poplar Oak Elm tree Ash tree Maple Pine Fir tree CEREALS GRASS Pigweeds Wormwood Rib-grass Nettle Sorrel FUNGI CLADOSPORIUM ALTERNARIA

For trees For cereals and weeds For fungi

Pollen grains (fungi spores) in m3 1-10 11-100 101-1000 1-10 11-30 31-100 1-100 101-1000 1001-2000

>1000 >100 >2000

Foods to watch:

certain foods, which can produce a similar affects on your body and thus potentially worsen your health. One needs to remember that none of the drugs used to alleviate allergy symptoms can change the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reaction to allergens. Allergic diseases often rapidly progress: at first you may have only light manifestations and later they become more pronounced. Another feature of hay fever is that drugs that at first used to relieve symptoms quite well eventually no longer help. Furthermore, the response season may extend. For

Allergy to tree pollen

Allergy to grass-pollen

Allergy to pollen from weeds

Allergy to fungi microgerms

nuts fruit grown on trees and bushes carrots parsley celery

bread, bakery bread kvas starchy foods oat flakes oatmeal coffee, cacao

melons smoked sausages sunflower seeds halvah mayonnaise watermelons courgettes eggplants mustard sunflower oil

yeast dough fermented cabbage beer, kvas cheese wines, liqueurs sugar, fructose, sorbet, xylitol

example, if at first your body reacts to pollen when concentration in the air is the highest, in the future the symptoms will bother you during the whole of the blossoming period. If you are already sensitive to one allergen, it is likely that you will also become sensitive to others. Hay fever patients are recommended to take courses of allergen-specific immunotherapy (ASIT) once a year (usually in winter). Today ASIT is the main treatment that may change the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s response to allergens and prevent

further progression of allergies. This method has been used for a long time all over the world, and has been proven to be highly effective. The patient is injected with micro doses of allergens he or she is sensitive to in gradually increasing doses, as a result his resistance to the allergens is enhanced. Please, remember that only a personalized and integrated approach formulated together with an allergist can ensure maximum effectiveness in fighting against this disease.

Business

A Passion

for Quality Richard Knight, ACSI, Client Advisor,

Key Investments 10 Vozdvizhenka Street Moscow, 125009. Mobile +7 915 058 6656 Richard.Knight@Key. Investments www.key.investments

Why are the products that you are offering in this market important, what makes them different from other financial services products being offered here? To answer the first question ‘why are the products important’ I need to get a little philosophical. As you make your way through your working life it’s almost a certainty you will need to employ the services of people from three professions, they are Medical, Legal and Financial. For medical services you visit a doctor, you buy a property or have a legal issue you go see a Lawyer and for Financial service?, (no… not the bank!). Medium and long term financial planning, that’s what we do. So if your doctor is successful at keeping you alive and your lawyer keeps you out of jail, our aim is to provide the funds you’re going to need so you maintain your lifestyle wherever that may be and regardless of your nationality.

The correct answer to the second question: ‘what makes them different from other financial services?’ is nothing. The products we use can be and are offered by other brokerages in Moscow and around the world, the difference is the advice and service you receive in return for placing your trust with your broker. For Russian nationals, the main requirement is security. Russia has a long and colourful history but until the powers that be diversify the economy, Russia will continue the roller-coaster ride from one financial crisis to the next. This is a big worry for Russian nationals as previous financial crises have seen their entire family life savings wiped out overnight, and sadly history has a strange way of repeating itself. The products themselves offer their own level of security via the Investor Protection Scheme, which for the client means peace of mind, and one less headache for the brokers. The Russian government

does have a personal financial insurance scheme, which has recently been doubled from 700,000 to 1.4 million roubles. But exchange rate volatility has halved the true value of this scheme, so in reality all that is happening here is that the local scheme is treading water. In the UK, the insurance covers savings up to £85,000 and they are considering raising this figure to a cool £1 million.

Who are your clients: Russians or Foreigners? Nationality doesn’t come into it. My client base, however, is mainly Russian, in my eyes, they have a bigger need. For the expats here, it’s a case of being aware of, and making use of the tax advantages whilst you can. Many expats are simply unaware of many changes and modifications in legislation whilst being offshore. For example, there are new changes in the tax law coming into place in April

Business

“... Our remit is to look after the clients, get them into the right funds, at the right time be they: mutual funds, ETF’s (Exchange Traded Funds), stock’s, bonds, and structured products, and to keep the clients informed in all market conditions.”

specifically aimed at non-residents who have property in the UK, and a lot of people don’t know about these. It’s all about being tax efficient as far as the expats are concerned, whilst you have the time. If you go back to the UK, then you can readjust and/or repatriate, but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t use your time wisely, whilst you are here.

Do you offer a personalised service? Absolutely, this business is very much a people business and every client is an individual each at a different stage of his or her life. I have clients who are just making small regular savings, because they want to build capital for some future expenditure. I have other clients who have multi-million dollar accounts, their goal is security and growth; In both cases the clients need, and get a completely personalised service, which is what sets Key Investments apart from the

“...Every ‘crisis’ is a golden opportunity for those who can take advantage of it. They will reap serious rewards for their careful and calculated investments.” crowd. ‘A Passion for Quality’ is all about service, it’s all about people.

We are in a very difficult situation now, at least as far as expats are concerned. Are you offering any different services now which are different from those you offered a year or two ago? In the main no; the products remain the same, although the strategy may change. Every ‘crisis’ is a golden opportunity for those who

can take advantage of it. They will reap serious rewards for their careful and calculated investments. Our responsibility to clients would also ensure each client is diversified so that as markets move up and down, the client will maintain steady growth. The ‘crisis’ is here in Russia, but in Europe, the USA, China and in ASEAN countries, people are all making very good progress. Our average growth for 2014 was between 8% - 12% in what was quite a flat year. So far in 2015, we are averaging 21% and as I write it’s the 1st March, so once again the crisis is local; nothing more than that. We look for two types of clients, those who want to be active in the markets and not sit on the fence sucking their thumbs, and those who became active and feel let down by their existing broker. We’re not a big company and if I’m honest, nor do we want to be. Our remit is to look after the clients, get them into the right funds, at the right time be they: mutual funds, ETF’s (Exchange Traded Funds), stock’s, bonds, and structured products, and to keep the clients informed in all market conditions.

Do you like living and working in Russia? Yes very much so. I’m still here after 5 years, although I have seen a lot of people come and go. But I can understand why some people can’t get to grips with the culture shock, Moscow is very much a working city and I love my work.

Business

International Financial Advisers Limited

ebastian & St James International Financial Advisers is an international financial services company serving clients throughout the world. We specialise in all aspects of financial advice, offering a financial consultation service which encompasses a wide range of investment and pension based solutions. Our main aim in Russia, as with all of our clients all across the world, is to deliver exceptional customer service. At Sebastian & St James we recognise that every client is different so we provide a service tailored to the requirements of each individual. As part of our exceptional customer service we aim to establish strong working relationships with our clients. We spend time talking to our clients to ensure that we fully understand and appreciate their requirements, current financial situation and financial aspirations.

Why use Sebastian & St James?

The Sebastian & St James Team

One of the fundamental aspects of our service is to communicate with the client to ascertain whether we can help. We expect to spend time talking to clients, answering questions and giving information. We have clients who have approached us with very defined ideas of the investment they want, and we welcome the opportunity to discuss these and make their ideas reality. We also have clients who are new to investment and need information and guidance to help them make decisions. We understand how important it is for our clients to know that their investment will be handled with diligence, integrity, skill and care. We always encourage clients to ask as many questions as they need to ensure that they are happy to go ahead and use any products and services.

The Sebastian and St James team bring together unique experiences, background and knowledge to make a winning team. Our advice is independent and covers the whole of the market, and we have access to the major insurance companies and investment houses across the globe. For clients with additional requirements we have affiliate businesses which have expertise in the fields of tax, insurance, life insurance. We are also able to offer the facility to open bank accounts in Dublin without the need for the client to be present. Clients who would like more information on this service please email info@ss-ifa.com Sebastian & St James are also looking to recruit advisers who would like to work with a forward looking international financial company providing exceptional service to their clients in Moscow and on a worldwide basis.

Please call the office or email your details to info@ss-ifa.com in strictest confidence. Sebastian & St James International Financial Advisers Limited: advice based on integrity, trust and experience.

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Sebastian & St James

Business

eafer W s i r Ch

espite all the hype and the disastrous backdrop prevalent throughout all of 2014, the results for the economy were actually not so bad. Many of the alarmist reports in both the international and domestic media, which, for example, suggested that the country would suffer a recession similar to that of 2009 or that there would be a severe credit problem which would hit the banking sector and even lead to problems for Russian companies servicing their international obligations, proved to be just that; alarmist. But that is not to say that the economy has survived the crisis intact and all will be well from here, especially if the efforts to secure a lasting peace deal in eastern Ukraine are successful. Far from it. Almost regardless of where oil trades and how much optimism there may be over an easing in sanctions, the economic indicators for the next three to four months, possible the full first half year, will be borderline disastrous. That is now almost a given. What happens in the 2nd half and how much optimism there may be for a recovery in 2016 will be determined by oil, sanctions and whether we get an effective government strategy. But none of that will stave off the severe

‘Buckle up, it’s going to be a rough ride for the next three to six months, but the long term outlook is not that bad…’ downturn the country is now in. The effects of that will hit almost everybody in the coming months and into early summer. But first the good news. The economy actually grew in 2014, albeit by a very modest 0.5 per cent. The decline in retail growth, which over the past 14 years has been the main economic driver, to only 2.5 per cent and the contraction in investment spending and the construction sector were partially offset with a pick up in demand for locally produced goods. The sharply weaker rouble and the ban on some importer foods contributed to import substitution. The continuing rise in defence sector spending also contributed to the gain in the manufacturing sector and the housing market expanded by 15 per cent as people rushed to use depreciating roubles and lock in lower interest rates. The federal budget would have reported a full year surplus equal to 0.9 per cent of GDP had the Finance Ministry not transferred 1 trillion roubles to a fund which will provide support for the banking sector this year. That transfer meant the budget actually reported a 0.5 per cent deficit. That is a very good result given the 52 per cent decline in the price of oil, which, along with the gas sector, contributes just about half of all budget revenues and

two-thirds of exports. Capital Flight did rise, to over $150 billion last year, but most of that was the repayment by Russian companies of external debt (they had no choice due to last Augusts’ sanctions). Total foreign debt fell by $130 billion to end the year at $599 billion, or 30 per cent of GDP. Not a bad ratio when one considers the over 100 per cent debt to GDP ratio most developed countries, and China, have to service. That’s where the good news mostly ends. The hangover from 2014 is now kicking in and it will be painful. At the end January, the headline rate of inflation was already at 15 per cent and it seems very likely to exceed 20 per cent in the early 2nd quarter. That means the Central Bank will not be able to cut its still crippling benchmark Key Rate of 15 per cent until it is convinced that the inflation rate has peaked and started to reverse. That may not be until its policy meeting on June 15th. Whether inflation will have peaked by then will be largely determined by where the rouble trades and that is almost solely a function of the oil price. The price of Urals crude has defied most predictions and, by mid February had climbed back towards $60 per barrel rather then testing the 2009 low of $40 per barrel. It is far too early to be confident that the

Business “... The government’s crisis management, which was very poor in late 2014, has improved. Changes to personnel in the Central Bank and the trillion rouble transfer to support the banks are positive moves.” worst is over and interim bounces have been common during previous periods of oil price weakness. What we can say is that if the oil price does again track back to the low $40’s then the rouble will again test the high 70’s against the US dollar. The Central Bank will not use resources to prevent that as the weak rouble provides a lot of protection of budget rouble revenues and acts as a soft stimulus for domestic manufacturing. But, while there is a clear correlation on the downside, this is not the case when oil rallies. Instead traders switch their fears to eastern Ukraine, sanctions and the decline economic indicators. So the recent oil rally and the more hopeful news from Ukraine may combine to rally the rouble a little, but the greater likelihood is for a continuing nervous currency market, which a greater downside risk, between now and late spring. Real disposable incomes fell by 1 per cent last year, the first decline since 2000, and that squeeze will be worse this year. Nominal wage growth is a lot less than inflation and Russian employers have a preference for cutting salaries rather than staff. So good for the unemployment statistics but another reason why retail sales and other consumer sectors will amongst the worst hit in the coming months. An early indicator was

January’s vehicle sales, which were down 25 per cent on the same month last year. The government’s crisis management, which was very poor in late 2014, has improved. Changes to personnel in the Central Bank and the trillion rouble transfer to support the banks are positive moves. There is also much greater clarity about exactly how much foreign currency debt needs to be paid in 2015, i.e. $60 billion when offshore centres are excluded, which is almost equal to the current account surplus of last year, and the fast-track support facility for 199 strategically important companies also adds some confidence compared to the fact vacuum of last year. But while the newsflow is better, there is no doubt that the strategy from the Kremlin is one of survival and damage containment only. There is no recovery strategy and none is expected until there is stability and directional clarity in some of the key variables, such as oil and sanctions. The earliest we may start to see that response could be around the time of the big economic showcase set for late June in St Petersburg. The main theme for that event this year is very likely to be selfreliance or import substitution. This is a theme, which President Putin has been beating the table about since late 2010 and without

much progress. The current crisis, especially sanctions, provides him with another opportunity to pound the table harder. To make that work the country will need the continued involvement of western companies and experts. That is something, which was accepted many years ago and is not impacted by the reset in political relations. No doubt the Kremlin’s relations with western countries will remain bad indefinitely as a result of the events in Ukraine. But that should not affect the open door policy for western companies and investors. Previous assumptions that the so-called Asia pivot would replace the need for western expertise have been discredited; China has no spare cash for Russia and is only interested in the materials and transport sectors, which help bolster its economy. In summary, the key message is ‘buckle up, it’s going to be a rough ride in the economy for the next three to six months’. But the country has the financial and cash flow base to survive the crisis and some positive, long overdue, changes may yet come out of this recession. That said, a return to the boom times is impossible as the base conditions have changed irrevocably. But, with the right strategy and some basic reforms, companies and investors will still be able to make above average returns in Russia.

Crisis

CRISIS 2015 Kim Waddoup We are now well into (another) crisis. Many of us have been here before but the current situation is very different. Complex, with a multitude of factors each playing a role in the continuously developing scenario, the likes of which we have not experienced before. Moscow is host to an estimated 170,000 expats and their families. For many it is their home and the place where a great number of

expat businesses have been established with considerable investments. To some it is just a 4-year stint on an ever-revolving cycle of postings abroad. However we are all caught in the middle and whilst each has his/her own agenda for survival (or departure), we wanted to attempt to gauge the mood of our multi-cultural readers with a series of short interviews to enable a cross section to express their views and offer hope/

advice/commiserations to our readers. Our primary aim is to portray the real feelings and emotions of expats actually living and working here in Moscow in contrast to the emotionally written articles by our International colleagues that mostly portray a completely different view on our lives! Those interviewed are a comprehensive of expats living and working in Moscow, who combined bring decades

of experience dating back to the very early days of modern Moscow. We asked 4 main questions and in this issue the cross section is mainly business orientated. We will continue in the next issue of Moscow expat Life, so if you have some comments or would like to be interviewed please contact me at Moscow expat Life publisher@ moscowexpatlife.ru Kim Waddoup (23 years in Moscow)

Chris Helmbrecht, Partner at KOLLEKTIV, 11 years in Moscow.

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making? We are cutting costs, keeping expenses down, looking for foreign business. Every crisis offers opportunities. We are trying to use the current situation to our advantage, offering Russian creative services

for a low cost to our European and US clients and partners. It’s a win-win situation for everybody. Our creativity earns business and Euros, we make money and our partners get good quality work for much less than in their home markets!

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal? According to my business/finance contacts, the worst is still to come. They forecast a never-seenbefore-economic-crash along with running inflation for the first-second quarter of 2015. Hopefully they are wrong. In any case, the recovery will take a few years. As soon as we are through the bottom and

recovery begins, I want to start two new businesses with the help of investors. I have planned these businesses already to start this year, but in the current environment, it would be stupid to start something new. I am sure, both businesses will benefit from the recovery/growth period, after the bottom is hit.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? In most cases not. But in my opinion, it’s NOT some sort of propaganda, but laziness on behalf of the journalists, combined with the general opinion within their target groups. The publishers’ editors want to feed to the

readers/viewers, what they want to see, since it will generate more advertising revenue/profits. The general opinion about Russia just started to change to a positive one over the past few years, from the Alcoholic-MafiaRude-Russian image, but all positive image gains have evaporated in the last year. Nevertheless, from my frequent visits to Germany I know that there is an overall understanding of the Russian side (and it’s actions) within the German middle and upper classes, which is surprising.

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? An increase of blood pressure maybe. So far,

Crisis the crisis hasn’t affected me that much, but I think it’s still the quiet before the storm. I am uncertain and afraid of what lays ahead. But, this is not my first crisis and I am positive that I will be able to stay in Russia and get through

this. We may even benefit from the crisis in one way or another. I have decided to stay in Russia (as long as I can) and sit this one out. I will only leave if I can’t make enough money anymore to provide my family with its daily needs

or (worse case), if the streets get violent (due to political social unrest or criminals). I’m also afraid, that (some) Russians will develop a hate rage against foreigners and there will be threats against us, because we

are foreigners. Particularly from a country, which imposes sanctions on Russia. Hopefully none of that will happen and we can continue our businesses and do our part to support the Russian economy.

Bastien Blanc, VP Sales, Marketing & Business Development – Russia CIS, Interstate Europe Hotels & Resorts. 6 years in Moscow. to the team, crises mean opportunities, hence we are developing new partnerships in different markets, with different industries, to try to offset the drops. In such times it can be challenging to do better than the previous year but you have to perform better than the competition.

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making?

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

Indeed the playing field is constantly changing, particularly within the Hotel & Tourism business, as we are getting hit from all angles. We are getting less business travellers, international conferences are now nearly nonexistent, tourism has dwindled, and costs have risen dramatically. Though as I repeat always

To work in Russia is to accept the ups and downs of this market. It is a longterm investment and not for short-term players. Business will return as this market, and the whole CIS, still represents many opportunities for development in a variety of different fields. It might be the right time to invest locally in logistic infrastructure, which

remains a main braking force to industrial regional development. Investment in hotels is still necessary, so that the country can prepare for the World Cup. Focus should be on how to rebound best beyond the removal of sanctions in July, hopefully.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? I have lived in many countries, and as a general statement, the press often only shows a biased picture, and this is even more so when talking about the western view of Russia unfortunately. Many people talk or write about Russia without having been here even once, or without interviewing people who are living here. I personally listen to different sources and try to get a real

feeling about what is going on, always keeping in mind that face-to-face communication with team and partners is crucial.

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? Like all Muscovites I am experiencing price increases, from Aeroexpress tickets which are up by over 15% to my coffee, which is up by over 6%. Some products have totally disappeared after a couple of months of sanctions. Only my local market babushka has kept her prices pretty stable so far. But here again, when I see some programs on European TV, it looks like shelves are empty, which is absolutely not the case. Many items from different origins have appeared. I do experience the lack of cheese! Luckily there is Belarus!

“We remain 100% committed to this market, to our clients and to our team. We are taking a long-term view”.

Crisis Robert Knights, COO Work Service, 22 years in Moscow. Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making? Our clients are behaving cautiously and calmly, they are not making any snap decisions, but business is slowing down. We have more client requests than ever before, because businesses are considering all options when it comes to the provision of services including labour, but the translation into business and contracts is slower.

We have recently moved into new offices, and are investing in the future. We have opened a new business unit for the supply of outsourced IT Solutions, and signed co-operation agreements with several new service partners. We remain 100% committed to this market, to our clients and to our team. We are taking a long-term view. This is my fourth crisis here in Russia and each has had its own unique DNA. Russia has emerged from each one of these crises a stronger nation and economy. This crisis has the added dimension of sanctions. I believe that this crisis will take longer to emerge from than the previous events. I do not

think that business will return to normal as it was pre-crisis. Future direct foreign investment will be limited and investors are likely to be very cautious, especially those from Europe and the USA. Investment may come from China, India, Brazil and other developing nations who are seeking a healthy and robust relationship with Russia.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? For a number of years now Russia has been receiving a disproportionate amount of negative press and that has intensified. Currently I do not believe that there is an attempt by the Western media to even understand the current situation in Ukraine from a Russian

perspective. The reporting is not balanced and it’s quite often misleading.

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? Well it’s now becoming very obvious that prices are rising rapidly for basic foodstuff, particularly dairy, meat, poultry, fish and fresh fruit and vegetables. I am consciously shopping at outlets which are giving reasonable quality and value. I have changed my shopping habits and I can imagine people that are on a limited and fixed rouble budget are really struggling. I am also conscious and wary as to where I travel. I have spent 22 wonderful years in Russia and I hope that I can spend another wonderful 22 years here with my family.

Luc Jones Partner & Commercial Director – Russia & Kazakhstan, Antal Russia. 20 years in Russia. and what immediate policies are you making?

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company

Recruitment is always a good barometer for business in general, with companies hiring more people when times are good and doing the opposite during downturns – it’s basically feast & famine! Business certainly hasn’t stopped since clients realise that there is still a shortage of good people available,

and even if a few firms are letting some staff go, they hardly get rid of the best ones first! As a rule of thumb, those companies already active & well established in Russia will stay put but we are unlikely to see many new entrants in the nearest future!

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

Define ‘normal’? Many would say that putting ‘Russia’ and ‘normal’ in the same sentence is an oxymoron, as least as far as foreigners are concerned – Russia is never likely to be normal in the Western sense. However, if you mean economically stable & having strong relationships with the western world, then this is unlikely to happen in the foreseeable future, unfortunately. My feeling is that both sides have bitten

Crisis off more than they can chew here (The West didn’t realize what Russia would do to prevent Ukraine from joining NATO, and Russia underestimated the reaction to annexing the Crimea) and neither sees much benefit in achieving a quick compromise.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? Russia has always been an easy target for lazy, foreign journalists – and in

any case, who wants to read about the trains running on time; far more exciting to write a story about the Russian mafia trying to sell plutonium to Kim il Sung! Granted, the Russian government certainly doesn’t do itself any favours; I get the distinct impression that they like the ‘cold, tough, hard man’ image, assuming that if outsiders aren’t frightened of us, then they won’t respect us! Recently the western press is particularly one-sided – when you live in Russia for a considerable length of time as an expat, you at least begin to see things from the Russians’

point of view (even if you don’t necessarily agree with it) and why they act the way they do! Just imagine if the boot was on the other foot and that Russia had supported the Scottish independence movement, or was funding UKIP? This is Russia’s ‘Cuban Missile Crisis’!

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? As I have a mortgage in the UK, yes! My salary (paid entirely in RUR) is

essentially worth half of what it was only a few months ago. However, when you work in emerging markets, you have to be prepared to take the rough with the smooth – I did well during the boom of 2004-2008, and sent sufficient cash abroad to tide me over for the coming months, but not indefinitely! If you live locally, you won’t experience a huge difference, apart from airfares, so unlike in 1999 when bars & restaurants were empty, this isn’t the case now, as Russia is more self-sufficient than it was 15 years ago.

Anonymous (Banking Sector). We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making?

and anticipation of new ones adversely affect business.

after politicians start to talk to each other again.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

The crisis triggered by sanctions is strongly affecting the financial sector. Before the US and EU sanctions, Russia was a growth market for European banks. Current sanctions

In my view this crisis is different. Crises in the past reflected mostly an economic weakness. This crisis has a political background. I expect business to return to normal only

The way that Russia is portrayed in EU press is disturbing. The western press in general does not accurately reflect political developments. This is sad.

A senior expat with 20 years experience We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making? As pressure mounts on cash flows so companies review their expenses. This is bound to put all financial advisory firms revenues under review.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your

prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

The Russian bad guys sell newspapers, books and films. Sadly what we are seeing now is that both Russia and the west have reverted to their characters of the other.

This is unlike other crises as it is being driven by a political agenda. As such we cannot rely on the normal cycles that are created by economic events. This has the potential to be long and drawn out.

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges?

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

Immersed in a sea of bad news it is ever more important to protect our personal motivation. I have taken to ensuring I attend the ballet or concerts at least once a week.

Crisis John Kopiski, Dairy Farmer/Agro-tourism 23 years in Russia

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making? Is the crisis a result of sanctions? I think not! What is the cause of the current sanctions – the answer is oil and shale oil and the politics that surround this! The current exchange rate is a direct result of oil, and not the sanctions, not even Crimea or Ukraine. Hence one just has to sit out and wait for the oil-politics to end! Who, where and why the oil politics are the way they are, is beyond the

reach of us, the normal voter! If the war in Ukraine was solved tomorrow, would the price of oil fall? The current global crisis is beyond the control of normal people business people. For domestic producers, using domestic resources, the exchange rate should not affect costs. However, as a dairy farmer I face problems like many, concerning the cost of spare parts that I have to import. Hence there will be a direct effect on costs. On my dairy farm, I wait to see what policy the [milk] processors make, as they control the price of milk which I am paid. Hence I am not really in control of my long term policies, other than to reduce costs, reduce labour and hope not to be forced to sell assets to provide cash flow.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

My business will return to normal when exchange rates return to normal, or sales prices react prorata to my cost increases. In the meantime I am studying how to process more of my Russian milk, with Russian equipment to produce Russian products and hence not rely on imports. The term to use is long-term. Make higher profits when one can and bite the bullet when hard times come! Do what we preach! Do as we tell the Greeks. What does normal mean? If normal means working as in Europe, then this means lower profit margins; higher salaries and less dividends! If one means ‘normal’ as ten years ago the answer surely must be ‘no’ because as the market matures the approach to business becomes more long term, without such large profits. The Russian market will grow. With current politics now imposed on Russia, there is a chance the new ‘normal’ will mean more rouble deals; more BRIC deals.

Politically or commercially? Commercially – business is business. Exchange rates are exchange rates. I see no difference about investing here today, than two years ago. It is a place to invest. Western politicians provide the wrong portrait to serve their purposes! The purpose today... seems to be to make the public think that Russia is expansionist and risky. There is a lack of bank finance, or at exorbitant rates and terms and conditions. There are price increases on anything imported but marginal price increases on local production. Disposable income is being reduced.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? The western press these days does not just report on a situation! It opines on a situation and hence follows policies.

Anonymous, Real Estate We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/ company and what immediate policies are you making? For the moment, there are no currency controls, and therefore, we expect potential clients to continue buying but with reduced budgets.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your

prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal? We expect Russia to become more self-sufficient and less dependent on imports due to sanctions and absence of foreign credit. Providing there are no currency restrictions and the currency—whatever its value remains convertible—we expect business to continue. Pundits from Kudrin to Chris Weafer predict the crisis should lift within 3 years.

There are very good opportunities at the moment for manufacturers of agricultural and food processing/ packaging equipment with a link-up for leasing with a Russian bank or foreign bank working in Russia. There are no restrictions by the West in this sector at the moment.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the nonRussian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

Crisis No, the West has turned Russia into a Pariah state; it will take many years, if ever, to restore the friendly relations created as a result of the dissolution of the Soviet Union.

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges?

Challenging! We shall find new products adapted to the new situation.

Adrian Cooper CFO Region EEMEA for a global food processing company We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making?

crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

We see locally supplied prices for materials and services rising in-line with inflation, plus a trend for payments in other currencies [EUR or USD]. With currency and borrowing rate changing frequently, we need to update pricing mechanisms far more frequently, and look to hedge any exposure we may have.

No, not in the next 18 months, I think this is a new ‘reality’. This is only the start of a slowing-down of the economy. GDP grew by only 0.6% in 2014, and will fall by between 3 to 4% during 2015. Capital flight continues, and the oil price seems to have stabilized at a lower level than Russia needs to cover its spending. This is leading to cuts in Government spending and jobs, that will further exacerbate a slowdown.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous

Do you feel that the way Russia is now

perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? What I read in Reuters, the FT or The Economist [as examples of foreign press] seems to indeed mirror a close representation of what is actually happening to the economy, in terms of data and facts. When Russia emerged from their last recession in 2009/2010, it seemed to me that the Government was content to rely on a buoyant oil price to ‘balance the books’ / increase reserves… without maybe investing more, faster, in local manufacturing, with still a

high reliance on imports. Of course in the local press, it’s all the fault of the US..!

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? One very real challenge was telling employees that they had to settle for only a 50% of Inflation pay-rise in December. This will impact them directly in 2015, as real prices in shops rise, but I was surprised by their level of acceptance to this. It was though they were hardened to this reality, having seen it many times before.

Anonymous, IT Sector, 8 years in Moscow + 7 years in Kazakhstan. We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making?

three times smaller and switched pricing of our products from roubles to Euros to protect us against exchange rate swings. We have a contingency to further downsize or even close the office if necessary and work through a local dealer.

It was evident already towards the end of 2013 that Russia was still suffering from big underlying structural problems and that we were heading for a slowdown. Crimea, Ukraine, sanctions have all merely exacerbated that weak situation. For our business we have already lost four employees (out of 11), downsized to a new office

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal? We really have no optimism at all regarding the future. This current crisis differs from the previous one in that it is almost completely stand-alone and self-manufactured.

Politics, saving face and not backing down seem to play a large role, so based on current activities do not expect things to change for the better. Indeed, like in most other countries there is always constant debate, particularly in harder times. I have not seen that here.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the nonRussian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? Yes, it’s fairly accurate, although the real situation is even, at times, worse.

“To work in Russia is to accept the ups and downs”

Crisis How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? On a personal level, real income has dropped

substantially. We are paid in roubles but have at least 50% expenses in GBP and EUR. Add double-digit inflation to that and we are all suffering. Russia was generally a fairly lucrative place to work in the

past – now the situation has changed. If you include the fairly dire quality of life in Moscow, particularly in the winter months then outside of friends, family and tradition, it’s difficult to find a reason to stay.

Don Scott OBE, President of the British Business Club 26 years in Moscow.

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making?

Yet again we find Russia in a very difficult and challenging situation, however we should remember that this is not the first time Russia has been in this situation over the past 25 years of independence. I think the most important thing to keep in mind here is that through every period of difficulty Russia has gone through, it has come back, bigger better and stronger. Russia is not dead but going through enormous growth pains and still finding itself in the global geo-political

landscape. I have heard many people say that this ‘crisis’ is worst that all the rest. I seem to feel that much of that statement is used by less experienced and younger expats in Russia, in fact it is no worse than other crisis periods, but it is different. In 1998, peoples material expectations were much lower than today. Nobody could dream of having a mortgage back then. Today it is fairly commonplace and so the cultural mass learning of debt is now being felt. Back in 1998, oil was

less per barrel than it is today, but as Russia grew over the last decade and invested with increased margins, it is now feeling the pinch, something that it is not used to! All in all, the current climate is not pleasant, however, life goes on, business will continue and things will get better again. It is not for the faint hearted, but then again Russia never was. Russia will still be here in 20, 30, 100 years, it is a long-term investment in time, life and money, but for those that stay and persevere, the rewards will come.

Andrew Quayle, CFO Heineken Russia, 3 years in Moscow

several years already by the government, with additional legislation and increased taxes on an annual basis. So in some ways it is just more of the same and we know how to deal with it. The difference is, of course, that this time around the whole economy is struggling and a recession seems imminent, if not here already! Our strategy remains sound and we will keep planning ahead for the ‘good times’, when they return, and on a daily basis to focus on the things we can control and not worry too much about the things we cannot.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

No, most if not all of the western media seems to have a negative, biased view of Russia. What I see on the street and hear in the office is not what I read in the press.

We see two years of recession and realignment of the economy… then all will be back to ‘normal’… whatever that is! (ever the optimist!).

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges?

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

There are some food challenges as westernsourced products are not available. This is an inconvenience but hardly more than that. Prices are beginning to react, but surprisingly slowly.

“Every crisis offers opportunities”

Crisis Oliver Eller, General Manager Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow.

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making? The economic situation is not very favourable in Russia at the moment, but I am sure we will manage this challenge. I am an optimist by nature and I am looking forward to the future with confidence, otherwise I would have never come to Moscow. Crises always open up to new opportunities. The most important thing is

that our guests are loyal to us, which means they trust us and are ready to stick with us through any crisis. Many people ask me about sanctions and I respond that the sanctions are actually not my business. My task is to satisfy the guests no matter if sanctions are applied or not. Of course, we needed to adjust to the current conditions and have changed suppliers to local ones, but we did not decrease the quality, which is most important to our clients.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal? The first time I came to Moscow in 2007, it was also in a crisis two years’ later. I was a part of the opening team of a deluxe Moscow hotel, which was a true success story, so I

think you become stronger and more creative, gaining experience through challenges. But I would also like to point out that at the moment, there are many negative insinuations around the booking situation in hotels. In reality, the figures are not so bad. Over the last couple of months we managed to increase our occupancy in comparison with last year by 25%.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? The Baltschug is famous for being a mediafriendly hotel. We invite all journalists to stay in our hotel and experience true Russian hospitality. More media players should come to Russia and give an objective portrait of the Russian reality. I am sure

the general image of Russia will then be changed.

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? I know that economic situations influence all the aspects of our lives. As an executive leader, I do everything possible to keep my boat (otherwise known as my hotel) stable, to avoid the storm and huge waves. I make sure that my team rows the boat in the right direction. But frankly speaking, I forget about the crisis when I come home. I recently returned to Moscow with my wife, who is Russian by the way, and my nine-month-old son. I am a happy man and I think that a lack of money or a decrease in the exchange rate or the price of oil can never destroy the true peace in your heart.

Mark Smith Managing Director Sunbury Heights 27 years in Moscow. and what immediate policies are you making?

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company

The construction industry is always prone to downturns caused by economic crises. While the clock speed of our industry may be a little slower than some, a downturn in the general economy will hit developers looking for investment immediately, architects within 3 months and project managers and

general contractors within 6 months. The present crisis in Russia has been long in the making and before the onset of the most recent downturn our industry was already suffering. Even before the intervention in the Ukraine, Moscow office vacancy rates were higher than any other European city, outside of Greece. The appetite for new office developments therefore was low at the outset. Now the crisis has

deepened, that trend has become considerably more pronounced, with very low demand for most commercial design and construction services. I see that paucity of demand as being likely to continue for at least another 2-3 years.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

Crisis I think the current crisis is of quite a different order to the others we’ve all lived through in the 1990s and in 2008. Those crises were largely financial crises and while they affected Russia badly, Russia could turn to two pillars of support that are simply not available now. Firstly, Russia was an established and accepted member of the global financial community, allowing it to operate on global financial markets without let or hindrance. Now, Russia has been expelled from that community of nations and is actively ostracised by a very large part of the global community – this is not simply a U.S.-Russia conflict for instance.

Secondly, during those previous crises, the world oil price maintained a degree of buoyancy. This is the bedrock upon which the Russian economy is built – Russia having no other significant source of income excepting the sale of weaponry. The oil price is now at a significant low, with most analysts accepting that changes to oil exploration, including the availability of shale reserves, means that the price will stay low for a considerable period ahead.

This is rather a leading question and invites one to take sides in a way that I don’t think I’d like to do. I would say however that the question would be more telling if we were comparing state controlled publications in the various countries - then we could conclude something meaningful. The media in Russia is almost universally state controlled, so comparing that with independent sources of opinion will always lead to differences in approach.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges?

Personally, as a result of recent events we’re focussing more on expansion overseas. I think the present crisis will not go away anytime soon and the prudent decision for any business leader is to protect overall revenue streams, rather than being patriotic or overly sentimental about one or other location. That is the business of a politician or apparatchik, not a businessman. From a personal standpoint, the environment has led me, after 27 years residency in Moscow, to relocate to Berlin with my family. It’s a decision that saddens me, but one, which I fear, is weighing on the minds of many expats in Moscow.

ANTON GREILER General Director Julius Meinl Russia Involved in the Russian market since 2001.

We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making? As we are selling mainly imported goods, the RUR/EUR exchange rate affects us and our selling prices directly.

The first price increase was by 10% at the end of October last year and that continued at a very fast rate during the weeks which followed. Our ideal solution is to switch clients with RUR-prices/ pricelists to EUR-pricelists, invoicing in RUR on the day of delivery based on the official central bank exchange-rate. Not all clients accept this, but we monitor our profitability constantly and we are not delivering, if we make losses. Last year we had our absolute record in sales in Russia and we are in the meantime the biggest importer of roasted coffee to the Russian Federation. We

continue with a strong salesmomentum and we try to compensate margin-losses with additional volume and market-share, which will set up a great base for the time after the crisis!

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal? The economy is not a one-way street. There are always upswings and downswings. After every crisis there was and will be a boom and we have to prepare now to get stronger for the huge opportunities which are ahead of us!

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal? I see and feel a real ‘propaganda-war’ between the view from the west and from the east. The media are telling stories, which are fitting to their ‘view of the world’ and not showing ‘reality’ (whatever this might be).

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

“My business will return to normal when exchange rates return to normal, or sales prices react pro-rate to my cost increases” 82

Crisis Luckily, I am paid luckily in EUR, so the effect is limited, but I definitely saw the value of my RUR-accounts here

decrease and imported goods are becoming more expensive (in RUR). On the other hand, I just noticed that going

out eating in ‘expensive’ restaurants is currently much cheaper (counting in EUR), as most of them have not increased

prices (yet). Russians are travelling less abroad, as it has become basically twice as expensive as only one year ago.

David Gilmartin, General Manager, Troika Relocations 19 years in Moscow. We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/company and what immediate policies are you making? As our main business is working with international companies and their incoming expatriate assignees, our industry has been affected quite seriously. Since the last round of US sanctions, and the Russian ban on imports of European foods, many expatriates

have left the country. Many of these would have been employees who simply found that their jobs no longer existed. Since the December crisis, we have witnessed a more worrying trend. Many long-term expats have left, or are planning to leave, as they feel it is no longer i nteresting, both personally and financially, to stay here. For those who are earning in RUR but still have outgoings in Euros, for instance school and college fees, it may no longer be viable to stay here.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal? I have been here long enough to have witnessed the 1998 crisis. At the time, that was a challenging experience, and I don’t think anyone predicted that the country would recover as quickly as it did. This time around, I am afraid to make a prediction, as there are so many factors involved in the equation. The economy will of course

recover, and some companies will be in a position to take advantage of that, but it will take longer for other international companies to commit once again, as they see the recent events as being self-inflicted and avoidable. In the long term, they will all return as Russia is simply too big to ignore.

Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia? No!

Anonymous. Restaurant business, 23 years in Moscow.   We are now well into another crisis and the playing field seems to change on a daily basis. How is this affecting your industry/ company and what immediate policies are you making? Sales are down 15%. We are having to watch all aspects of the business daily and adapt immediately. We are in the process of reducing staff and monitoring CGS. We are also looking closely at the effectiveness of all our marketing.

Many of us have ‘survived’ previous crises, what is your prognosis for the future? Will business return to normal?

Unfortunately this is not going to be a short-term crisis. The economy has serious systemic problems! Even if oil goes up, sanctions go away and Ukraine stabilizes it will not result in a strong economy. The Government appears to have the wrong priorities which they will not change and it will take years for capital investment to return as they will be discouraged by the risk and corruption.  Do you feel that the way Russia is now perceived by the non-Russian press accurately portrays the real situation in Russia?

No it is a lot worse than they can imagine. Drive 100km from any major city and you will see the real Russia. It is sad!

How is this crisis affecting your personally? Are you experiencing price increases or other challenges? My personal income has been seriously reduced. Inflation is growing – quality food is seriously increasing in cost. Why? Because here is no competition with quality imports. The sanctions imposed by Russia are only really hurting the Russian people!

“When you work in emerging markets, you have to be prepared to take the rough with the smooth”

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Is Baku By R

the Future?

zerbaijan’s capital on the Caspian coast does not hit the headlines often. That is one of its charms: it is a friendly, relaxed place without excessive ostentation. Even the Eurovision Song Contest (winners 2011, hosts 2012) seems to have passed without doing too much damage. That may be about to change. Be ready to see Baku on the front and back pages more often. Next summer, June 2015, Baku plays host to the first ever pan European athletics championships. Formula 1 hits the city’s streets – literally, Monaco style – in 2016. The World Chess Championships are the same year, and the Islamic Games follow in 2018. Soon you will be able to add skiing and eco-tourism to your to-do list. Have you thought of a sojourn in this ancient and modern city? There are plenty of good reasons to come. At 40`N, the seaside city is a little south of Sochi, the Crimea and Monaco; on the coast, and a handy three hours flight from Moscow. The climate is agreeable, the prices and politics both tolerable. Be ready for pleasant surprises. Let’s dig a little deeper. Oil and now gas are key. No need to dig: the first oil seeped to the surface to be used centuries ago, and natural gas flares remain one of many quirky tourist attractions. For a long time, Baku was the world’s largest oil producer, but mercifully the forest of smelly derricks of the 1900s have long departed, and “The City of Winds” blows the air clean quickly. The Soviet economy depended on Baku oil, and so did Hitler’s plans: the defence of Stalingrad was a miracle that saved us all. The old oil economy of Baku lives in the fields of nodding donkeys in the suburbs and surrounds. But the new wealth of the city comes from huge offshore oil and gas exploitation, deep under the Caspian. This is hi-tech specialist work, and so the city now has four working tongues: Azeri and Russian, universal English, and increasingly Scots. As I type, the sun is shining bright across the Caspian, and the fishy silver sea is dotted with distant oilrigs and tankers bringing the bounty back across the brine.

Travel

Azerbaijan has two thousand proud years of history, and longer of pre-history. The Caucasus (as in ‘Caucasian’ of course) is a cradle and crossroads of humanity, and the city has seen caravansaries passing along The Silk Road, waves of differing sects of Christianity, Zoroastrianism and Islam, and foreign investors and adventurers. Proud independence and strength have alternated with Persian, Turkish, Russian and Soviet flags atop the ancient citadel walls. Perhaps that is why the current renaissance was celebrated by erecting the (briefly) world’s tallest flagpole. Inevitably, regional squabbles and power struggles result from the impossible chequerboard map of peoples, languages, religions and traditions across the Caucasus, just like the Balkans. Their pivotal location, sandwiched between Turkish, Persian and Russian empires, with occasional eruptions from Greece, Arabia, Mongolia and others, makes for a rich and confusing history, ethnography and architecture. The Azeris are both proud and tolerant, and they are happy to adapt and interpret all strands together. Baku is not quite Istanbul, even if Azerbaijani is the grandfather of modern Turkish, but all these threads can be

traced in the city streets. The warm sandstone city walls have 1000 years’ stories etched into them; the greats of culture and history (no proscription of figurative art, in an essentially Islamic culture!) have labels in mixes of Azerbaijani-Turkish, Cyrillic, Persian, Arabic and English. Writers, poets, musicians and thinkers take pride of place in historical Baku. The current post-Soviet republic credits the founding president, and father of the current leader, with tributes in photos, monuments, place names, airports, streets and stadiums. The tightly packed little lanes and alleyways in the walled city are as delightful as any Aegean village. Iconic wooden balconies push the thin line of sky to the limit. Come and visit soon, as too many of the traditional districts around the old town are being razed for modernity. All life is here, from washing and gossip to backgammon and chess; home grown fruit and vegetables being sold in front rooms and slipping onto the lane; and armies of small children playing vying for space with free range cats and kittens. The city centre has been given a complete makeover, with the Caspian shore and central Fountains Square chic and stylish pedestrian areas, perfect for a stroll and a coffee, or better, chai. It is a bustling but relaxed place by day. Lonely Planet awards Baku the dubious title of the world’s 11th best nightspot. A bit OTT, surely, but there are plenty of watering holes and music venues for varying tastes (and no taste) of a weekend evening. Glassy skyscrapers are lifting the skyline with curious shapes, most famously the wobbly curves of the “Flame Towers” business centre, and the signature swooping slopes of the Heyday Aliyev museum. In short, Baku mixes long history with modern vision, has a welcoming smile and an agreeable climate. Russian or English will make communication easy. The urban, littoral and rural landscapes are rich in interest and can be explored on foot. (Or take the mini-Moscow Metro, or a ride in a purple London taxi). A mini-Moscow by the seaside? You decide: join a modern caravanserai and explore for yourself.

Retro

Novorrossiyisk, Southern Russia, Late 1997.

“You see that’s the problem with Russia” Steve reasoned with the benefit of having lived in Novorossiyisk since the late eighties and having commenced drinking since the late afternoon. “She can only handle one issue at a time. Give the politicians simultaneous problems and all you end up with is a …is a.. is a bardak!” He thumped down his glass down to emphasise both his profundity and his mastery of Russian slang acquired at his day job, testing and treating cargoes loaded onto visiting oil tankers. Steve did have a point though, there were worrying signs with the economy, political in-fighting was rife, there remained tensions with neighbouring States and the latest weather forecast had everyone scared, most of all his Ukrainian borne wife who had rung repeatedly urging him to come home. The previous year Boris Yeltsin had been returned as President thanks to a pragmatic West that provided temporary economic support to the faltering economy rather than see the Communist Zuyganov be popularly elected, and the leading Oligarchs who grouped together to finance and orchestrate an election campaign the like of which had never been seen in Russia. Coordinated by Boris Berezovsky and Vladimir Gusinsky they and a number of other newly enriched businessmen provided funding, media support – they owned many of the leading publications and popular television stations, and hired western campaign consultants to put the result beyond doubt. It proved to be a profitable arrangement, with their finances secured against grossly undervalued state assets which the businessmen later elected to keep. But after a brief period of relief and elation that followed the election, the fundamental problems returned. Inflation was worsening an economy already severely damaged by the recent $5Billion war with Chechnya and GDP was continuing to fall. Ordinary people were growing poorer again. Although a peace treaty signed was signed in May 1997 with the newly established regime in Grozny led by the former rebel Ashlan Maskadov, a

h kovic c i r e Fred

deal partly brokered by Berezovsky despite no formal position in the Government, resentment and tensions remained among the Chechen clans, particularly along the Dagestan border. Disagreements also continued with the Ukraine although these were partly alleviated with the signing of the treaty for the Partition of the Black Sea Fleet. This divided the ships, artillery and aircraft approximately four to one in Russia’s favour but much more importantly, Russia retained Sevastopol in the Crimea. Like Novorossiyisk, Sevastopol is a natural deep warm water port. Unlike Novorossiyisk however which is a mainly civilian installation responsible for much of Russia’s dry cargo trade and western seaborne oil exports, Sevastopol is a military port and the home of the Soviet and now Russian Mediterranean Fleet. The 25,000 troops included under the twenty-year deal for the port were put there to ensure that this strategic location, which many Russians felt is their land anyway, would remain under Moscow control until 2017. The real body blow to the Russian economy in 1997 did not come from disagreements or territorial disputes with neighbouring States however, rather it came from Asia in the form of a flu epidemic. It all started with Thailand, one of the new Tiger economies. In July the Thai Baht crashed quickly followed by the Ringiit and the Rupiah. Soon nowhere in south east Asia was safe and economies and currencies from Singapore to Hong Kong lost significant value to the US $. Although the contagion did not attack the rouble directly, Russia’s international trade was still comparatively thin, what it did do was create a worldwide economic slowdown and commodity prices, in particular crude oil, fell sharply. One thing you can bet on with certainty is when the oil price reduces so does the value of the rouble and in 1997 the crude price dropped from around $32 to less than $20 per barrel. The result was yet more pressure on the economy and the rouble itself now fell RUR 6 to the $ from parity in 1993.

Business Insights

“You mark my words, if the economy fails and if the West don’t stop interfering and criticizing Russia’s behaviour on its borders things could get nasty, like the storm that’s about to hit”, Steve said as he drained another glass of “Semyoka”, Baltika 7, a potent brew. The storm he referred to was the renowned Novorossiskaya Bora (mega-storm) forecast to hit that night. Capable of hurricane strength winds for days at a time, Boras usually appear in November or February when confrontation of the European Russian anti-cyclone with the Mediterranean cyclone system occurs. Unlike hurricanes, which develop at sea and lose their strength over land the Boras blow from the land over the Caucasus foothills and channel down into the harbour. Coming from inland at that time of year the actual air temperature can be -20C and the chill effect with the wind speed is considerably more. The effects can be devastating. Mature trees freeze solid and snap off in the blasting wind, power lines ice up and collapse robbing residents of essential heat, cars can be blown off roads, but the real damage is to ships. The sea spray whipped up by the streaming winds freezes almost before it lands covering the ships on their moorings in ice that can grow to many centimetres in thickness. This additional topsides weight coupled with the sea state and wind on the superstructure is capable of capsizing even large ships if the ice is not hammered away quickly enough. In just one storm in Novorossiyisk, six vessels capsized and several crew drowned only metres from the dock. We got up to leave, intent on getting home before the storm grew. The wind could already be heard buffeting the windows. Steve, swaying even before getting through the restaurant door as if in preparation turned “I don’t know, low oil price, pressure on the rouble, disputes with Ukraine, I wonder what the future will bring?”

Moscow Good Food Club

Ritz Carlton December 2014 The ratings: Food Quality: Quality/Suitability of the drinks: The service standards: The general rating of the meal:

31 38 37 35

hen one receives an invitation to host the Moscow Good Food Club at the Ritz Carlton in the centre of Moscow, one accepts with great pleasure. My personal previous experiences in this venerable location had not been the best so I was most interested to see how it had changed. Some may think that making all the arrangements for the Moscow Good Food Club is all about food and wine tasting, actually its not, it’s many discussions and negotiations to ensure that our members receive exemplary service, superb food and well paired wines at an amazing price. Having made the initial discussions with the Director of Food & Beverage, I had a meeting with a young lady to make the final arrangements. She was charming, clever and listened carefully to all my comments and requirements. Then on the evening everything had been organised perfectly. Congratulations to the management of the RC for this amazing young lady!

So with all arrangements made the invitations were sent and our 40 seats were soon fully booked with members eager to experience the hospitality of the Café Russe at the Ritz Carlton. We were welcomed with smiles, canapés and of course an excellent glass of Prosecco specially selected by Somelier Anton Galkin. After a little time to talk we were requested to take our tables. Chef de Cuisine, Fabien Gailly then briefed us on the gastronomic experience that he and his team were preparing. This started with 3-ways marinated Salmon, warm blini and sour cream accompanied buy a fresh Pouilly Fume from Domaine Chatelain. Excellent flavours and a spuerb pairing. This was followed by Scallop Carpaccio with a citrus, lemon dressing. The flavours were slightly disappointing but still enjoyable and the choice of the Pouilly Fuisse from Louis Jadot was superb.

Moscow Good Food Club

After a brief respite the main course was served with many oooh’s and aaah’s to be heard around the room. This superb dish consisted of Braised Beef Cheek with a red capsicum ragout with crispy potatoes and natural jus. It was perfectly balanced with exceptional flavour. The main dish was well complemented with the rich Mas La Chevalier, Laroche a deep ruby red where we could appreciate the great concentration of red ripe fruits enhanced with the spicy aromas of nutmeg and cinnamon. A really elegant wine and ideal for the course. Despite canapés and 3 courses so far our august members managed to keep space for the dessert, a light Vanilla Napoleon with a red berry Coulis accompanied by an amazing Chateau Lange Reglat Sauternes. With our taste buds duly scintillated it was time for our Critique and regular questions. Fabien Gailly and Anton Galkin braved the comments of our appointed spokespeople and accepted the small criticisms as highly constructive. As expected the overall ratings were high

and praise was certainly due to all at the Ritz Carlton who had worked so hard for such a memorable evening. As is tradition our well imbibed members were asked to answer some questions. Our theme for the evening was “A rather challenging year is coming to an end and traditionally it is time to make a wish! If you could make 3 wishes from prominent Russian politicians who would they be and what would be the wish?” Many of the replies could not be printed for a variety of reasons, but amongst those that we can are 1) Return the exchange rate to 1:40, 2) ask the Minister of the Environment for lots of snow, 3) allow French cheese and European fruit back into Russia, 4) allow peace to the world so that we can all continue to enjoy Good Food, Good Wines and Great Company! The Moscow Good Food Club would like to express it’s gratitude to the management and staff of the Ritz Carlton for a superbly organised and excellent gastronomic experience.

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants SCANDINAVIA 7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Skandinavian, $$

OSTERIA DELLA PIAZZA BIANCA Moscow Good Food

Club

“Comfortable, calm restaurant with high quality cuisine offering many Scandinavian specialities”

Lesnaya street 5a M. Belarusskaya Cuisine: Italian $$$$

Moscow Good Food

Club

Full a la Carte menu incorporating healthy dishes made from organic ingredients. Open kitchen and excellent food & wine

Moscow Good Food

Club

“Superb food at sensible prices prepared by excellent chefs with friendly, efficient service”

Moscow Good Food

Club

Moscow’s most popular steakhouse & bar. Top steaks, efficient service and large wine list

KATIE O SHEA’S Groholsky Per 25, Bldg 5 M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Irish, $$ Genuine Irish pub with great beer, food and atmosphere

Muzey, Kosmodimianskaya nab. 52/7 (next to Swisshotel)Moscow Good Food M. Paveletskaya Club Cuisine: Italian, European, Pan-Asian, $$ Extremely comfortable Italian restaurant serving high quality creative & traditional Italian cuisine, personally cooked by Chef Marco Lachetta

Moscow Good Food

Club

Michurinsky Pr.16 M. Universitet Cuisine: European Bistro $$$

Krizhizanovskovo 20/30 M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Indian, $ www.aromass.ru +7 499 125 6276

“The most authentic and best Indian food in Moscow. Delivery service also available”

TORRO GRILL Multiple M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ Some of the best steaks in Moscow. Great service, great drinks and great prices

Moscow Good Food

Club

New style of European bistro with creative food and a large wine selection.

AROMASS INDIAN RESTAURANT

STEAKHOUSE & BAR

Club

WINE RELIGION

“Casual but elegant restaurant offering an entertaining gastronomic experience”

CHICAGO PRIME:

Good Food

MUZEY RESTAURANT

17 Tverskaya St M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Scandinavian, Moscow Good Food European, $$$ Club +7 495 629 4165 www.nightflight.ru

22, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Moscow

Comfortable and classy restaurant with creative dished from the Finnish chef.

CHEKHONTE

True Italian cuisine from Executive Chef Giuseppe Todisco

Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Club

Tverskoy bulvar 26, bldg 2 M. Pushkinskaya. Cuisine Scandinavian, International $$$$

NIGHT FLIGHT

ITALIANETS 13, Samotechnaya Ul, m. Trubnaya, Cuisine Italian, English menu price $$$

Good Food

Typical Italian traditions for food and hospitality. Food care is the most important aspect, with freshness and simplicity as the main characteristics. Feel and breath Italian culture and true Italian cuisine.

REAL FOOD RESTAURANT Crowne Plaza Hotel/WTC Krasnopresenskaya Nab 12.

Moscow

ORANGE TREE RESTAURANT

HUDSON BAR 10, Butirsky Val M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$ Lively bar with good food, superb cocktails, great atmosphere & excellent service

SILVERS IRISH PUB

STARLITE DINER

5/6, Nikitsky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Pub food, $$

8a, Strasnow Bulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, $$

“Traditional Irish hospitality with great pub food and excellent beers”

Moscow’s original diners still serving our favourite food

Community Services Business Clubs/Organisations

The Association of European Business (AEB) CEO: Dr. Frank Schauff Web site: www.aebrus.ru

AEB is an active community of about 630 members, providing a network for sharing opinion and experience. The AEB is an advocate of its members’ opinions, generated in 40 industrial and crosssectorial committees, sub- committees and working groups.

ITA Italian Trade Agency Director: Maurizio Forte Web site: www.italtrade.com/rossija

The ITA supports the internationslaisation of the Italian economy. We have been working in Russia since 1966.

French-Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (CCIFR) General Director: Pavel Chinsky Web site: http://www.ccifr.ru

The Danish Business Club in Moscow Chairman: Kasper Ditlevsen Daytime job: Commercial Director – Uhrenholt Russia & CIS Web site:www.dbcmoscow.camp9.org

The Danish Business Club has both corporate and private members, almost all of whom are based in or doing business in Moscow. About 80% of our subscribing members are Danish.

The French-Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry is aimed at developing economic cooperation between Russia and France. We organise a large variety of different events for our members to meet each other, such as sector committees, business presentations, B2B meetings, cultural events.

CCIR (Camera di Commercio Italo-Russa) Director: Marisa Florio Web site: www.ccir.it/ccir/

Russia continues to offer massive opportunities to British businesses, but it takes stamina to see them through. The BBC offers a small sanctuary of Britain to help in these times.

WE organise and attend a lot of trade exhibitions each year and help all of our members establish themselves in Russia.

The Irish Business Club Chairperson: Avril Conway Web site: www.moscowirishclub.ru

The members of the Irish Business Club are a mix of both Russian and Irish professional people and private individuals. It takes some time to understand the Russian culture and to make friends. We try and help in these respects as much as we can.

The Wirtschaftsclub Russland is an umbrella organisation for German speaking business people in Russia. We hold events throughout the year, our last one being ‘Building European Bridges’ on the 1st of April, when we invited Olympic Medalists Alexander Schachner and Wolfgang Fasching. Wirtschaftsclub Russland CEO: Dr Karin von Bismark Web site: www.wirtschaftsclubrussland.org

British Business Club President: Don Scott Web site: www.britishclub.ru

Alexander Janeczek, Head of the Polish Business Club

Italian Business Club (ITAM) President: Giovanni Stornante

We organise social and professional events for the Italian community. We bring Italians together, help their integration when they move to the big city, facilitate the exchange of ideas, experience and opportunities between the Italian and other business communities.

The Polish Business Club was created 15 years ago to develop contacts between Polish and Russian companies, and to provide business support; such as help in renting an apartment, how to get medical help and advice on where to go in your free time. The Club’s main mission is business development in Russia.

Community Services Women’s Clubs/Associations International Women’s Club of Moscow (IWC)

The Swedish Women’s Educational Association (SWEA)

President: Ann Charlotte Norin Web Site: www.moskva.swea.org

The International Women’s Club of Moscow is a not-forprofit organisation which exists to promote friendship and cooperation between women and men of all nationalities. Explore our website to find out more about our events, how to join, and the charities we support. President: Afrah Mohammed Alfaddaghi, the wife of The Ambassador of the State of Kuwait. Web Site: www.iwcmoscow.ru

The German’s Women’s Group

This is a new German-speaking group which organises meetings for German and Austrian women. Meetings are held every second Wednesday. The group supports newcomers and those who have been here longer. Founder: Susanne van Alphen Email: vanalphen@hotmail.de

De Tulpen

Presidents: Olya Kalmykova and Desiree Dekker Web Site: www.nlclubmoskou.nl

The British Women’s Club (BWC)

Chairwoman: Fiona Johnston Web Site: www.bwcmoscow.org.uk

SWEA is an international organisation, with 7,500 members in 34 countries all over the world. The fact that the 90-member strong Moscow chapter fits into a large international organisation, has many advantages. The main purpose of the SWEA in Moscow is to act as a network for members, to support Swedish culture and Swedish languages. The majority of SWEA’s 90 members in Russia are accompanying spouses, even though the trend is that more and more women come here by themselves for career reasons working for Swedish companies.

The Main goal of the Tulips is to provide a social platform for the Dutch speaking ladies in Moscow, do things of interest together and have fun! When you are abroad, one’s own culture becomes so much more important. If anybody wants to connect with us, please find us on the Dutch Cub web site. If people want to go and visit museums, they can do that one their own. But if they want to speak their mother tongue with other people here in Moscow, then here we are.

BWC was set up in 2000. When British women arrive here they may need help and support from each other to understand basic things like where to shop for food, information about schools and to get to know other Brits. Mainly it is a help group, because it can be quite a shock settling here if you don’t speak Russian. Women generally introduce themselves before they move to Moscow. And we let the ladies know on what is going on in the city. As long as you have a British passport yourself or you married to somebody who holds a British passport you can become the member of BWC. We have quite a few Russian wives who are members. Once a month we hold our monthly meeting at the British embassy. We have a committee with ten members. We meet once a month and make decisions about what we are going to do during the months ahead.

Community Services List of Charities Below is an incomplete list of Charities operating in Moscow which foreigners are known to be involved with. If you wish to list a charity in future issues, please write to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Kidsave Contact: Alexander Mzhelsky, +7 985 970 9019, a.mzhelsky@kidsave.org Kidsave® is a non-profit organization working in Russia since 1999. Our programs create strong and lasting connections between children and adults, with the goal of giving orphans and young people graduating from institutions opportunities to develop the skills necessary for a successful future. ________________________

Downside Up Contact: Elena Lubovina, Tel. +7 499 367 1000, +7 499 165 5536, lubovina@downsideup.org About 2,500 children with Down syndrome are born in Russia annually. In 85% of such births, parents give their children up to

maternity homes, often following doctors’ advice. The abandoned children are sent to state institutions with no chance of ever leaving them. But there is an alternative! The children can live in their families and join early intervention and education programmes. Children with Down syndrome, no matter how different, have a vast learning potential. Downside Up invites you to help make life better for people with Down syndrome ________________________

Kitezh Contact: Katya Gurkina, +7 916 975 1603, kitezhcentre@ yandex.ru, www.kitezh.org/ en/index.php Kitezh is a network of therapeutic communities that give children from orphanages loving foster families. The aim is to create a developing environment for

Kittens to give away?

participants from Moscow and Moscow region. Open Art has developed methods which are being used in rehabilitation centres and institutions for people with learning disabilities. Open Art also organizes courses and seminars for specialists in Moscow. ________________________

the education and care of orphans and children in crisis. The first Kitezh village is in Kaluga Region, 300 km south west of Moscow, and the second village, Kitezh-Orion, is located 60 km in the same direction. ________________________

Musical Experimental Theatre ‘Open Art’

Diema’s Dream

Contact: info@metopenart. com, www.metopenart.com Open Art was created in September 2001 for people with learning disabilities. Open Art is based on a unique combination of different art forms and directions: • Music • Dramatic art • Choreography • Art Design • Poetry • Dramatic improvisation • Ethnic art The Musical Experimental Theatre Open Art is open for

Contact: +7 495 942 4003, sa5557@yandex.ru, sergey@ddfund.ru Diema’s Dream was established in 1998 to provide financial, medical, and educational support for both physically and mentally disabled children in Russia. The larger goal is to support changes in society and legislation in order to create social and medical support programs, which would allow parents to raise their children at home rather than living in institutions. ________________________

www.Mosco

ise t r e v d A at e e r f r o f

wexpatlife.ru

Essential Information List of Charities Moscow Animals

Contact: info@ moscowanimals.org, www. moscowanimals.org Moscow Animals – devoted to the welfare of homeless animals. To adopt a dog or cat or if you would like to help local animal shelters by making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit the Moscow Animal Website or email. ________________________

United Way

organizations in Moscow. It is a registered Russian charitable organization and an established 501(c)3 nonprofit in the United States that addresses poverty and hunger, and provides medical care and education for Moscow’s poor, including women, children, families, pensioners, economic migrants, and refugees. ________________________

Big Brothers Big Sisters

Contact: + 7 (495) 780 9718, info@unitedway.ru The Fund supports charities offering programs aimed to meet the social needs of the following sections of society: • children at risk • disabled (children and adults) • refugees and homeless • elderly people Our mission is to foster responsible philanthropy in Russia by supporting local charity programs aimed at solving the most critical problems. The Fund is a permanent source of financing for efficient charitable organizations. Charities receiving funding have to demonstrate financial transparency to the highest possible degree. In turn, we guarantee to the donors full adherence by the foundation to Russian legislature and provide full financial and activity reports. ________________________

Contact: +7 (495) 500 40 42, www.nastavniki.org/ru Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia is a part of Big Brothers Big Sisters International, one of the most efficient mentoring programs for children. In Moscow BBBS helps children living in institutional care (orphanages) and disadvantaged children. A volunteer becomes a Big Brother or a Big Sister to a child, visits him or her once a week for at least one year. Studies show that children who have a mentor have higher self-esteem, are more stable emotionally, have better motivation to study and show more initiative. Currently there are 162 matches in Moscow. Please keep in mind that you need a good knowledge of Russian to become a Big Brother or Big Sister because the children don’t speak English very well. ________________________

MPC Social Services

Nastenka

Web Site: www.mpcss.org

MPC Social Services is one of the longest serving charitable

Contact: +7 (495) 980-5377, +7 (495) 585-41-01, www.nastenka.ru The charitable foundation

helping children with cancer ‘Nastenka’ was founded in 2002. The main objective of the foundation isto increase the quality of diagnostics and treatment of children with oncological diseases, as well as to revive the tradition of charity in Russia. For 11 years, the foundation has helped thousands of sick children and purchased large number of expensive modern medical equipment for a hospital: two ventilators, an x-ray machine, a dialysis machine, blood separator and much more. ________________________

To Russia With Love

Contact: www. torussiawithlove.ie The very best of institutions, orphanages, large childrens homes, are likely to harm children and leave them ill prepared for life in the outside world. Ideally, all of these institutions should be phased out as soon as possible by means of extended family support, fostering, the provision of small family units, and lastly, adoption. However due to the number of children in State care in Russia, our immediate goal is to secure for each child, a long term stable solution whilst working side by side with the local administration. To Russia With Love is privileged to be allowed act as a guardian to many children without parents, who live in these very institutions. We work to build children’s self confidence, assist them to reach their full

Organising an event? Advertise for free at 92

potential to become strong adults, successful parents, thus breaking the cycle of abandonment and in turn go forward as role models in society. ________________________

To Children With Love www.tochildrenwithlove.ru/en To Children with Love’ or ‘Детям с Любовью’ was founded in 2009 to focus on fundraising in Russia, in the belief that the best and the most sustainable initiatives should and can emerge locally. With a board composed of Moscowbased trustees, a celebrity patron and a growing base of corporate sponsors, the charity has, since 2009, worked hard to establish itself as a unique entity in the world of Russian children’s charities. ________________________

BIG Change Charity

Contact: http://bigchange.ru/ en/about/. Or call Big Change at +7 - (499) 317-44-44 BIG Change Charity is a Moscow charity that provides individualized education and training in life skills to teens and young adults who have lived for years in orphanages. Big Change helps their students: - prepare for vocational school or university - choose a vocation and find a job - broaden horizons, interests, relationships - become productive members of society - live full and independent lives.

fe.ru

xpatli e w o c s o .M www

Essential Information

Emergency Phone Numbers

Fire fighters 01 Police 02 Ambulance 03 Emergency Gas Service 04 Intercity phone calls 07 Information 09 Time (automatic clock) 100 Emergency rescue service 937-9911 _________________________________

Medical help

International SOS (The Moscow Clinic, 24 hour service to its clients)

+7 495 937 6477

American Medical Centers (24 hours service) +7 495 933 7700

What to do if you lose your passport

Your first step should be to contact the nearest consular department for your country of origin. You will also have to go to a police station in order to obtain an official form confirming the loss or theft of your travel documents. We recommend, however, that you contact your embassy or consulate first, as they may be able to help non-Russian speakers with the necessary paperwork. In the case of a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lost passport, both parents must appear with the child. Once you have a new passport, take it, along with your plane ticket (if you do not have a return ticket, you will have to buy one before you are issued a new visa) and the police form to the company that issued your visa support documents. If you have a copy of your lost visa, you should also provide it. If the agency refuses to help you (although it is their legal obligation to do so), then your consulate should tell you what to do.

Important:

For ease of processing we recommend that the police report states that your documents were lost, not stolen.

European Medical Center (French, British and American experts) +7 (495) 933 66 55

International crisis Line Tel: +7 926 1133373 This is a free English-speaking telephone counseling service for expatriates in distress. Available 08:00-23:00 daily. In case you ever have to call the fire fighters, the police, or an ambulance, make sure that all family members can correctly pronounce your complete address in Russian. Post a piece of paper with your full address details and phone numbers in Russian and translation into your native language on the wall next to your phone. Also make sure that your children know how to reach you or another adult you trust in case they get lost or have an emergency. Note that in Russia there is difference between the police (militsiya) and the traffic police (GIBDD, formerly GAI). The police are not responsible for regulating traffic or handling car accidents, and the traffic police do not handle criminal offences that are unrelated to traffic.

Pharmacies (Apteki)

Finding a pharmacy in Moscow is definitely not a problem. In fact, quite a number of them are open 24/7. The prices vary from one pharmacy to another, but the difference is not very significant.

Essential Information Getting to Moscow’s Airports

oscow is served by three major airports: Vnukovo, Domodedovo and Sheremetyevo. You can get a taxi (fares range between 1,200 and 2,300 roubles, and generally, the service is good. The operators speak English, but the drivers may not. A taxi back can also be booked, and this saves a lot of hassle and possible agro when dealing with the taxi drivers at arrivals. All 3 airports are now served by ‘Aeroexpress’ shuttle trains. The service is good but not 24 hours a day. The three airports are: Sheremetyevo Airport http://www.svo.aero/en/ +7 495 578 6565 + 8 800 100 6565 + 7 495 956 4666 for flight information Sheremetyevo has become much more accessible thanks to the opening of the Aeroexpress from Byelorusskaya Station. Aeroexpress costs 320 roubles and they leave every half an from 05:30-00:30. Long term parking costs 250 roubles a day according to the airport web site. If you are getting a taxi or driving your own car there during the day it is advisable to leave a minimum of two hours to get there from the centre.

Domodedovo Airport

http://www.domodedovo.ru +7 495 720 6666 for flight information Getting there: The Aeroexpress train departs from the left hand side of Paveltskaya station.

Single journey tickets come as flimsy paper receipts with bar codes in them. Don’t lose your ticket as you need it to get out of the station at the airport. Return tickets come as plastic cards. Tickets cost from 320 roubles. The journey takes 40-50 minutes, and they run reliably and regularly, every half an hour from 06:00-24:00. On the way home, this is a convenient way to beat the taxi mobs, however there is only the taxi if you arrive during the night. Leaving your car in the long-stay car park costs 600-700 roubles a day depending on the season, although information on the airport’s site is not clear on this score.

Vnukova Airport

http://www.vnukovo.ru/eng/ 8 (495) 937-55-55 Getting there: 1. By airport bus from Yugo Zapadnaya Metro. You need bus 611, 611с or 611ф, (611f) (express). You need to listen carefully to the pre-recorded stop

announcements. Your stop is Airport Vnukovo. Busses run every 10 minutes or so the journey to the airport takes about 30 minutes. You can also get a ‘marshrutka’, (mini-van taxi service) route 45 which will take you to the airport faster. Fare is 100 roubles plus 10 roubles for each piece of extra luggage. 2. From Metro Oktyabrskaya (the Circle Line) (subway) Route 705m ‘marshrutka’ runs between Metro Oktyabrskaya (Circle Line) and the Vnukovo airport. They take 35-40 minutes, although Moscow traffic is Moscow traffic, so at peak time leave at least an hour. Fare is 130 roubles plus another RUB 10 for every extra item of baggage. 3. By Aeroexpress Train From Metro Kievskaya (Metro) (exit to Kievsky Train Station). Once out on the Train Station forecourt, go round the corner of the Station terminal building and a few yards down on your left-hand side you will see the entrance portico of the Vnukovo Aeroexpress Terminal. Tickets cost 320 roubles for standard fare, and can be bought on line, if you read Russian. The journey takes 40 minutes.

Essential Information Paying for your mobile telephone at a terminal There are many different makes and models of pay machines which handle mobile phone payments in use in Moscow, however most of them work in the same way.

Step 1.

Identify the service you need: The first ‘home’ screen will ask you what kind of services you want. The Russian words: ‘ОПЛАТА УСЛУГ’ (payment for services) are what you want.

Step 2.

Identify the service you want: You will be presented by an array of services which indicate the various services which the company operating the terminal has signed up for. Fortunately, to keep things simple, the logos for the most popular mobile telephone companies are displayed on the top row.

Step 3.

Having identified your mobile telephone ‘operator’ by its logo, you will then be asked to key in your telephone number. Having done this, you hit the button which says ‘ВПЕРЕД’ (NEXT). On most terminals this is coloured orange, but make sure you don’t inadvertently press any other buttons which may download various entertainment programmes onto your phone.

Step 4.

Pay. You insert notes into the machine and the amount you have paid comes up on screen minus commission. You then hit the button: ОПЛАТИТЬ (PAY). That’s it!

Essential Information What do the numbers on the red number plates mean? They are Russian Diplomatic codes signifying countries. All vehicles registered with foreign embassies have to use them. 001 - Great Britain 002 - Germany 003 - Canada 004 - USA 005 - Japan 006 - Spain 007 - France 008 - Belgium 009 - Greece 010 - Denmark 011 - Italy 012 - Luxembourg 013 - Netherlands 014 - Norway 015 - Turkey 016 - Australia 017 - Austria 018 - Algeria 019 - Egypt 020 - Rwanda* 021 - Argentina 022 - Afghanistan 023 - Myanmar (the former Burma) 024 - Bolivia 025 - Brazil 026 - Burundi 027 - Ghana 028 - Bangladesh 029 - Guinea 030 - Zambia 031 - Peru 032 - India 033 - Indonesia 034 - Jordan 035 - Iraq 036 - Iran 037 - Ireland 038 - Iceland 039 - Cambodia (the former Kampuchea) 040 - Kenya 041 - Cyprus 042 - Congo 043 - Costa Rica 044 - Kuwait 045 - Laos 047 - Lebanon

048 - Libya 049 - Mali 050 - Morocco 051 - Mexico 052 - Nepal 053 - Nigeria 054 - Venezuela 055 - New Zealand 056 - Pakistan 057 - Burkina Faso* 058 - Senegal* 059 - formerly Syria. Now code 133 is used. 060 - Somalia 061 - Sudan 062 - Sierra Leone 063 - Thailand 064 - Tanzania 065 - Tunisia 066 - Uganda 067 - Uruguay 068 - Philippines 069 - Finland 070 - Sri Lanka 071 - Chad 072 - Switzerland 073 - Sweden 074 - Ecuador 075 - Ethiopia 076 - Angola 077 - Democratic Republic of Congo (the former Republic Zaire) 078 - Colombia 079 - Cameroon 080 - Guinea-Bissau 081 - Portugal 082 - Bulgaria 083 - Hungary 084 - Vietnam 086 - Poland 087 - Korean People’s Democratic Republic (North Korea) 088 - Cuba 089 - Mongolia 090 - China 091 - Romania

092 - formerly Czechoslovakia (nowadays Czech Republic (148) and Slovakia (149)) 093 - Serbia 094 - Benin 095 - Gabon 096 - Guyana* 097 - Mauritania 098 - Madagascar* 099 - Malaysia 100 - Niger* 101 - Singapore 102 - Togo* 103 - Central African Republic (code 106 used earlier) 104 - Jamaica* 105 - Yemen 106 - formerly Central African Republic. Now code 103 is used. 107 - Palestine 108 - Nicaragua 109 - Mozambique 110 - Equatorial Guinea 111 - Sovereign Military Order of Malta (earlier code 111 belonged to Council for Mutual Economic Assistance (Comecon)) 112 - Malta 113 - Cape Verde 115 - Zimbabwe 116 - United Arab Emirates 117 - Côte d’Ivoire* 118 - Namibia 119 - formerly Republic of South Africa. Now code 137 is used. 120 - Oman 121 - Qatar 122 - formerly Arab League. Now code 503 is used 123 - formerly Liechtenstein 124 - South Korea 125 - Chile 126 - Panama (earlier code 126 belonged to UNESCO; see code 512)

127 - Israel 128 - FYR Macedonia (earlier code 128 belonged to EU) 129 - Albania 130 - formerly international organizations 131 - Holy See (Vatican) 132 - Lithuania 133 - Syria (code 059 used earlier) 134 - Estonia 135 - Latvia 136 - Bahrain 137 - Republic of South Africa (code 119 used earlier) 138 - Armenia 139 - formerly Georgia. Now code 158 is used. 140 - Saudi Arabia 141 - Slovenia 142 - Uzbekistan 143 - Kyrgyzstan 144 - Croatia 145 - Azerbaijan 146 - Ukraine 147 - Moldova 148 - Czech Republic 149 - Slovakia 150 - Belarus 151 - Tajikistan 152 - Turkmenistan 153 - Kazakhstan 154 - Guatemala 155 - Bosnia and Herzegovina 156 - Eritrea 157 - Paraguay* 158 - Georgia (code 139 used earlier) 159 - Brunei-Darussalam 160 - Gambia 161 - Vietnam 162 - Mauritius 163 - Dominican Republic 164 - Montenegro 165 - South Ossetia 166 - Abkhazia 167 - Djibouti

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