Moscow expat Life - Issue 11 - Summer 2015 by Moscow expat Life

SUMMER 2015

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru Moscow Good Food Club The Café Ruse at the Ritz Carlton

Ausski Ball Expat Survey IWC Art Auction Classes in Moscow Expats from The Benelux Countries What’s Special about Central Asia?

Summer In The City

Index Like us on facebook...

Community 3. ‘What Expats Want’ SURVEY 5. Social Movers 6-8. Community News 10. Summer In the City (for parents) 12. When Will the Hot Water be Turned Off? 13. Moscow Expat Subbotnik 14-15. Classes in Moscow 16-17. IWC Charity Arts Exhibition 18-18. Hudson’s bar 3rd Birthday! 20-21. Emerald Ball 2015 22. St. Patrick’s Day 2015-05-18 23. Scottish Dancing 24-25. 4th Annual Aussie Down under Charity Ball 26-27. Nikita – The Business Lounge 28-29. The State of the Business Lunch in Moscow

Retro 30. 1998 31. Ambassador Ron van Dartel 32. Ambassador Alex Van Meeuwen 33. Ambassador Pierre Ferring 34-35. Johan Vanderplaetse 36-37. Luc Truyens 38. Andre De Rijck 39. Hans Koelman 40-41. Jurgen Thoelen 42-43. Florence Gallez 44-45. Johan Verbeeck

Charity 46-47. Bowling for Taganka Children’s Fund

Education 48-49. EIS 52-53. ISM

Technology 54-55. Apt Apps

Moscow Personalities 56. Pierangelo Carbonara

Travel 58-59. Hotel Rodniki

Central Asia

SUMMER 2015

Benelux Countries Community

60-61. Intro 62-64. The EU in Central Asia 65. Book Review: In Search of Kazakhstan 66-68. Kazakhstan and Business 69-71. A Personal view of Kazakhstan

Business 72-73. Avoiding Stress At Work 74-75. Never Waste a Good Crisis 76-77. Don Giulio 78-79. Franchising 80-81. The Replacement for SWIFT 82-83. Don’t Die Intestate

Moscow Good Food Club 86-87. The Café Ruse at the Ritz Carlton 88. Restaurant listings

Community Services 89-96. Community Services, Essential Information

Letter

HE SUMMER IS HERE! We can all take a holiday from contemplating on whether we are in ‘Crisis’, ‘Survival’, ‘Recovery’ or an alternative mode, such as ‘Take It As It Comes’. For those of us not leaving Moscow, particularly with a family, the summer means certain challenges, i.e., what to do. Richard Peers in his article: ‘Summer In the City’ presents a list of activities for children, and which do not cost the earth, all here in Moscow. In fact there are hundreds of things to do in this unassuming city and Sophia Tupolev has researched some of the free classes available from art classes to dance and yoga lessons, which you might want to try this summer. Of existential importance to all of us, children or no children, is when the hot water is going to be turned off, and we include a short article on how to find out when your particular buidling will be cut off. For those of you who are travelling, read Nikita’s take on business lounges. In each issue of this magazine, we concentrate on a nationality or group of expats. This issue is the turn for our colleagues from the Benelux countries, who like so many members of the non Anglo-Saxon communities, are quietly going about their business and have been for many years. For those in business, we present an article on the ‘Russian SWIFT’ by Andrei Povarov, a sobering account of the present situation by Chris Weafer, and an article on how to cope with stress. The juxtaposition of these articles in one issue is accidental, but hopefully reflect – as is our editorial manifesto – some of the major issues, which we are presented with in these extraordinary times. One could ask: when has living in Moscow not been extraordinary, and is this necessarily a bad thing? You may have noticed that increasing numbers of people are quietly heading off to one of the ‘Stans’, in Central Asia. One suspects that Central Asia, like Russia, is a secret that doesn’t need to be shared, except more so. Nigel Cox, Luc Jones, and the Don Quixote of Eurasia, that once habitual inhabitant of Silvers, tell us about this collection of 5 countries which are located geographically next to each other, and yet don’t really live up to being part of a region. An article on the EU in Central Asia may be of interest to investors. The knowledgeable Simon Green informs us of where not to fleeced when buying a business lunch, and Don Giulio writes about his experiences opening an Italian restaurant just before the sanctions were applied. Enjoy the summer! APOLOGY

In the Spring issue of Moscow expat Life we published a series of excellent photographs of the Auski Cold Plunge taken by Rob Corpuz. We failed to credit Rob for his work, and apologise accordingly. Rob’s work can be seen on: www.robcorpuz.com

What Expats Want

by The Revd. Clive Fairclough Chaplain to St Andrews Anglican Church and Centre, Moscow

WE NEED YOU! To fill out our survey ‘Whatexpatswant’ Deadline for inclusion 30 June’ under the: The link for the survey is: www.surveymonkey.com/r/whatexpatswant

For more details about us please visit our website www.standrewsmoscow.org @clivetherev

oscow is host to an estimated 170,000 expats and their families. For many it is their home and the place where a great number of expat businesses have been established with considerable investments. However, in the current challenging situation, we are all caught in the middle and whilst each has his/her own agenda for survival (or departure). We want to help expats through this time. Our primary aim is to hear your views on how expat life in Moscow could be improved. Secondly, we will reflect on your responses to determine how we and other

community organisations can contribute to serving you here. The St Andrews Anglican Church & Centre based in the iconic Victorian English church in the centre of Moscow is one of many communities in Moscow which offers a sense of belonging for expats who live here. Recently, the church has undergone a comprehensive review of what the centre is and what it can do for others. Our centre primarily offers a community to expats as well as sharing the centre with four other partners. We wish to know how we can contribute to your quality of life in Moscow. Hence our survey ‘Whatexpatswant’ is now being launched, the results of which will be published by Moscow expat

life magazine in the autumn issue. This survey is anonymous and will be conducted through and internet based research tool. Our deadline for the completion of the survey is 15 June.

Colophon Contributors:

Publisher:

Kim Waddoup, kim@aigroup.ru

Editor:

John Harrison, editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Business Development Manager: Anastasia Sukhova, anastasia@moscowexpatlife.ru

Designer:

Julia Nozdracheva, chiccone@yandex.ru

Researchers: Anastasia Soldatova Aleksandra Markova Alena Kizimova Natalia Alexandrovna

Administration: Alina Kurpas Liliya Islamova Свидетельство о регистрации СМИ ПИ № ТУ50-01602 от 15 января 2013 г. Выдано Управлением Федеральной службы по надзору в сфере связи, информационных технологий по Москве и Московской области

Olga Samsonova Simon Green Brian McCormack Brian Johnson Kim Waddoup Ross Hunter Nigel Cox Daryl Seager Andrei Povarov Chris Weafer Sophia Tupolev Luc Jones Olga Suchkova Ilya Musaelov Kira Hagen Daniil Abakumov Polina Vatagina David Mercer Valery Levtsun Frederickovich Elena Likhacheva Luci Rodriguez

Editorial Address: 3rd Frunzenskaya 5, Bldg 1, Office 1 119270 Mosvcow, Russia Tel: +7 495 777 2577 www.moscowexpatlife.ru info@moscowexpatlife.ru

Учредитель: ООО «Эй Ай Груп» Главный редактор: Джон Харрисон

Moscow expat Life occasionally uses material we believe has been placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim ownership of something we have published, we will be pleased to make a proper acknowledgement.

№ 10, выход журнала 20.05.2015 Тираж: 30 000 экз. Цена свободная. Для аудитории: 18+

Hiring a Bicycle in Moscow

OK, so summer is here – at last – and it’s time to get on the bike. But you don’t have a bike, and don’t want to buy one in Moscow. Maybe it’s too expensive, you are worried about security, or don’t have room to store your ecological personal transportation system during Moscow’s long winters.

Don’t worry! You can still exercise those leg muscles and go for long rides in the park. 300 rent-a-bike points have opened up in Moscow, which is nice for those of us who come from London, Paris, or just about every major city worldwide, which all have such schemes. The principal is the same, it’s get on wherever

there is a pick up point and deposit your temporary metal steed at a point closest to where you are going to. In Moscow, you have to pay a deposit first, then it’s pay as you go. You can register online, or at a terminal, which each pick up point has. In either case you need to pay a returnable deposit of 1,200 roubles for a season (May 1st to 31st October), 600 roubles for a month (30 days), or 120 roubles for 24 hours. To register on line, go to www.velobike.ru/en and hit the button that looks like a red coloured arrow on the top right of the screen. You register with your name, email and mobile number. Then you wait to receive your login and password. Then you pay a refundable deposit

and book your ride ( 1 hour, 2 hours…). up to 30 mins: free 31-60 mins: 30 roubles 61-120: 90 roubles 121-180: 400 roubles, etc… On line booking works faster than if you book at one of the payment terminals. Once you have your login and password and have paid your rental charge, you type them in (the login and password) on the keyboard of any of the bikes’ handlebars and you are away. The bikes are a bit chunky, but feel solid and reliable. There are more and more cyclists on the roads now in normal and probably as safe as in any other large city world-wide. Enjoy the good weather whilst it lasts and get cycling!

Social Movers

Chris

Helmbrecht

Summertime and the Living Is Easy ‘Gipsy’ reopened! Yes, your favorite party bar is back alive. Seems like the owner found some more money to play with. But be aware. Recently I wanted to book a table for a client and the Gipsy facecontrol lady told me that a table booking is not a guarantee to get in. And there will be no refund of the prepaid table deposit. Sounds strange to you? ‘F...ck off and go somewhere else!’, is the meaning of that, in case you didn’t understand it. It’s strange (outdated) behavior, especially during a Crisis, but OK... Good Luck Gipsy. What else is hot? Rumor is that Artel Bessonnitsa (Sleepless!) will receive

Maria Ushakova

La vie en ROSE! Summer is finally here and we are going to take full advantage of it. I have weekend trips planned to Tula and Yasnaya Polyana; Lev Tolstoy’s residence. We heard that there has been a great deal of reconstruction work done and it looks fabulous. On top of all of that, if you adore Russian classical literature like I do, and dream of reading

the World Finest Club Award at the end of June and then officially be one of Moscow’s best clubs (with SOHO Rooms), based on international standards. Congrats from us! The makers of Icon and Artel are opening a new club soon. The project is said to have cost a double digit million dollar number and will probably become one of the city’s hotspots. At Mayakovskaya Square, the owners of Moscow’s largest concert hall open ‘Moskva Club’ in September. The club is ready and until then, they’ll do the occasional ‘private’ pre-opening parties. Buddha Bar will have one of the nicest terraces this year. The Frenchowned bar is not cheap, but offers live music performances every night, throughout the week (Buddha Bar style tunes). Moscow’s party scene will slowly shift from the Krasnye Oktybr chocolate factory across from the Kremlin (rents are getting too expensive) to the Rochdelskaya factory, which is just between the Crown Plaza Hotel and the White House. This is where Jagger is located. There you’ll find the new Arma 17 club (yes, they reopened as well) and the city’s hottest and hardest to get in bar ‘Duran’, where legendary Pasha Facecontrol runs the door. Luckily, he likes well-dressed

foreigners and you’ll probably have a better chance to get in, than most Russians. It’s worth a try. For the after hour you can head just across the river, to ‘Krysha Mira’ (the worlds roof). Dasha, their facecontrol, has eased up a bit on well-dressed, foreigners. ‘Krysha’ is one of the hardest clubs to get into. Their annual birthday party, the White Party, in the beginning of July, is legendary. Once you made it inside you can get drinks from heavily tattooed and pierced (but super friendly) barkeepers and enjoy the sunrise on ‘Krysha’s’ open air terrace. You’ll be surrounded by Moscow’s beautiful, rich and famous, mainly from the entertainment industry. If Krysha’s Dasha has a bad day (PMS?) and doesn’t let you in, try the nearby ‘Mix’ club, which in no way is related to the, now closed, legendary old ‘Mix Club’ from around Novi Arbat. The new ‘Mix’ is just a stone’s throw from ‘Krysha Mira’, behind the Ukraina Hotel. It reminds me of Glazur, which was a dark, drugged up shithole for the leftovers of the night. The new ‘Mix’ is slightly better and a dark alternative to Krysha, where you can dance until noon and then walk out into the sun, being surprised at how fast time went by. Moscow never sleeps!

Russian classics in its native language, there is a great application coming up called Zhivaya Kniga! It will enable to you re-experience and re-discover Russian classical literature and especially the works of Leo Tolsotoy including War and Peace, in a completely new dimension! It is great what technology is doing to enrich our perceptions and broaden our horizons! Especially, when it’s Samsung. I am also arranging a trip to Baikal in July, for those of you who really like nature and do not mind bathrooms outside of the tent. Theater work is going great. After a very successful first performance of the first adult theatre group we have children’s courses, in addition, to the existing adult courses. We have now a facebook page #MoscowAmateurTheater where you will be able to find information and a timetable. We have an exciting new

plan to add later in the year, called ‘train the trainer’ program. This program will enable Russian theatre directors to get appropriate training in teaching theatre a la anglaise, with a possibility to continue their education in England. I am also very happy to add one more instructor to our existing English courses - Viktor Nizhelskoy. Viktor will be leading a course in Japanese theatre KABUKI and, also, a more traditional Russian course, in Russian and the language of guests. I have excursions around town every two weeks during the summer; one of these is ‘The history of Diplomatic Mail’ in the Ministry of International Affairs. We also have dating seminars for both men and women every now and then in a hipster place called: ‘Projector’ bar, led by my dearest Dr. Chris. (expert on dating and love life). Moscow is great, enjoy it responsibly!

News The American Women’s Organisation

Since 1993 the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, has provided support to expatriate women, and/or spouses, of all North American countries including the United States, Canada and Mexico. The aim of the organization is to provide social and cultural opportunities during your tenure here in Moscow. The members are very friendly, open and always willing to share their experiences. General meetings are held on the first and third Wednesday of each month and commence at 11:00 a.m. Newcomers are always welcomed and encouraged to attend any of our meetings. If you would like additional information on the American Women’s Organization of Moscow, please contact us at awomoscow@gmail.com. Throughout the year the American Women’s Organization provides support to our main charity Nastenka - a charitable Foundation that helps children with cancer. Our largest fundraiser for Nastenka is the Arts & Crafts Festival which is held every November. Last year it was the 21st Annual Festival and we look forward to continuing supporting our charity in the future.

A celebration of Robert and Jane McGill St Andrews House, Moscow 9:00 Meet at St Andrews Church, Vosnesensky Pereulok (Tea, coffee, hymn and prayers) 10:00 Transport to the McGill’s grave at Vvedenskoye Cemetery 11:00-11:30 short ceremony at grave, and laying of flowers 11:45 transport to St Andrews House (now Marco Polo Presnja hotel) 12:30 Buffet lunch served in courtyard (with piper) 13:00 Revd Clive Fairclough: Loyal toast to HM Queen Elizabeth II Addresses: David Armstrong – The McGills of Moscow and St Andrews House Don Scott, OBE – message from today’s British business community Revd Clive Fairclough closing message and prayers If you would like to attend, please email David Armstrong on: armstrongd_uk@yahoo.co.uk

The International Women’s Club of Moscow keeps you busy in summer

Expats often take a long holiday abroad during the summer, so that many people don’t have the time to enjoy the city this lovely time of year. This is a pity according to the IWC and the Club therefore offers its members several summer activities. Together with the American Women’s Organization and British Women’s Club the IWC organizes weekly daytrips led by a professional guide to interesting towns, estates and monasteries surrounding Moscow – Klin, Gorky Leninskiye and Sergiev Possad just being some of the destinations on the schedule. Several IWC interest groups also continue in July and August, so that members that don’t leave town can meet their friends and enjoy their walking, art or language classes, often followed by lunch on one of Moscow’s great summer terraces. During the Summer Coffee Mornings IWC members discuss these summer trips and interest groups, and plan other nice outdoor activities with their friends. The Coffee Mornings are also the place where newcomers can meet other expats in a friendly and informal atmosphere and learn more about the IWC. When summer is nearing its end, the fun is far from over: the 2015/2016 IWC season officially starts with the famous September Meet & Greet and promises to offer even more fun and interesting activities to IWC members!

News ISM Rosinka Open Day - Monday June 22nd We would like to invite all families that are interested in enjoying the benefits of an excellent international education to join us for our open day. This event will offer you the opportunity to meet our academic staff, see the school in action and learn more about our school and our mission to offer a world class education here in Moscow. Please contact Vanessa Pimienta who would be happy to share further information with you. 143442 Moscow rural, Krasnogorsky region, village Angelovo, IRC Rosinka. vanessa.pimienta@internationalschool.ru +7 (499) 922 44 05

Rosinka Day Celebrations- Saturday June 6th Hosted by The International School of Moscow and the Rosinka Residential Management Team, this exciting event will offer a day of activities by the riverside for children of all nationalities and ages. Please contact Vanessa Pimienta for further details as we have limited capacity. 143442 Moscow rural, Krasnogorsky region, village Angelovo, IRC Rosinka. vanessa.pimienta@internationalschool.ru +7 (499) 922 44 05

St. Andrews

FREE JIVE DANCE CLASSES IN MOSCOW !

St. Andrews Anglican Church and Centre invites you to be part of our community. Sunday services at 8:30 and 11am throughout the summer. And make plans to attend our annual village fete, Saturday, Sept. 19 from 2pm-6pm. For our latest events, follow us on Facebook, Facebook.com/MoscowAnglican.

Beginners’ classes on Saturdays, held in English and Russian at the Esse Jazz Café. Not essential to come with a partner. For more information contact Richard at richardhume.hume@gmail.com or phone +7 903 558 71 35 Co-op Jive - www.coopjive.co.uk

Moscow Dragons RFC

English Language Evenings (ELE)

Founded in the depths of a Moscow winter almost 20 years ago, the Dragons have fielded players from more than 50 countries over the years. We play in the Moscow league, summer and winter, and tour regularly in the former Soviet Union and further afield. The Dragons Ladies also field a competitive 7s squad. Our social events are legendary and over the Summer will feature our Annual Reds/Blues Memorial Game and Moscow River Cruise. The club trains regularly and we welcome players of all ages and ability. Contact: Alexander Evdokimenko – pr@mdrfc - +7 916 128 0825

ELErs! BREAKING NEWS: In September it will be ELE II! Stephen Lapeyrouse, the founder and host of ELE, is now – after 21 years in Russia, and 17 with ELE – moving on to new activities in his life. These will take him to a small, culturally famous town in Massachusetts, called Concord (there is a possible book project, and in general a new, fresh start). ELE II will continue under the leadership of Brit John Harrison, longtime resident of Moscow, editor of Passport Magazine, and currently editor of Moscow Expat Life (www. moscowexpatlife.ru. John has also spoken to ELE two times over the years. John has many friends, associates and contacts in Moscow and worldwide, and will be bringing not only a new British angle and voice to ELE, but a new circle of contacts which will add in a new spectrum of speakers and topics. All else – the website, the yahoo groups emailings, the FB page (under Larisa’s continuing creative prime command),… – should remain the same. (NB: ELE II will be meeting in the Chekhov Cultural Center meeting room again!)

News AIB imposed by the EU and the US on Russia, the countersanctions imposed by Russia, the devaluation of the rouble and the policy of the Russian government on import substitution. For more details go to: www.aebrus.ru Flagship Conference The AEB is pleased to invite you to its 12th Flagship Conference — ‘Russian Economy: Quo Vadis?’ The conference will take place on May 27th, 2015, at Hotel Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya. We shall discuss the current state of and perspectives for development of the Russian economy. One of the sessions will be devoted to the Russian energy sector. The closing session will be devoted to our perception of history: in difficult times may we shape the future without gaining experience from the past? For more details go to: www.aebrus.ru

Taxation Forum The Association of European Businesses is pleased to invite you to its semiannual Taxation Forum: ‘Development of the Russian Tax System in 2015 and Prospects for 2016 – 2018.’ The event will take place on Wednesday, June 24th, 2015 at 09:00-13:00 (registration starts at 08:30) at the Ararat Park Hyatt hotel, in the Sargsyan Ballroom (4, Neglinnaya str.). The event will highlight the recent changes in tax legislation and prospects for the next few years, and will provide an excellent platform for the discussion and exchange of knowledge by professionals. For more details go to: www.aebrus.ru

The Eighth AEB Annual Survey The AEB invites you to attend the official presentation of the results of the eighth AEB Annual Survey ‘Strategies and Prospects for European Companies in Russia’. The event will take place on June, 16, 2015, in Moscow, at the AEB Conference Hall. This year the AEB aims to investigate the actual effect of sanctions

AEB 20th Anniversary This year the largest European Businesses Association (AEB) in Russia will celebrate its 20th Anniversary. We invite all AEB member companies to share this unforgettable moment with us, on the 24th September, 2015. VIP guests, a grand reception and a number of pleasant surprises await all those who join us.

THE ENGLISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL MOSCOW “SIMPLY THE BEST” AT FOOTBALL Below are details of our latest tournament on the 22nd of April, in which every EIS primary child participated, from all 3 of our campuses throughout Moscow: Now we’ll hand over here to some of the Children, who can best describe what it was like on the day itself. The writers below are all 9 years of age. Over to you, guys! The whistle blew, we all got very serious. The match started. At the start we did little passes, but they got bigger, bigger and then – a shot! We already were next to the goal of the team we were playing against… GOAL… we scored in the last 3 minutes! Then the match finished, we won!!! We were very happy! Zeynap

In the UK, the number one team is Chelsea; in Moscow it’s EIS ! EIS East Primary has the most comprehensive and extensive football programme of all the international schools in Moscow. Not only does the school have regular weekly domestic competitions between the school Houses, but also every week we play local Russian schools in competitive games. In addition, we organise regular all-day football tournaments. An all-day tournament for international schools took place in West Moscow, comprising the strongest school teams in Moscow. The EIS East Boys’ team won the tournament, beating the German School of Moscow 1-0 in the final.

In the tournament I used my yellow shoes to have a good long and better passing. We had training before we played the match. Our first match was against the Predators, the score was 2-0, we beat the Predators. Our next match was against Fire and the score was 4-0. We won again. I was happy and enjoyed the tournament because we won the trophy and even if I’d lost I’d have enjoyed it! Syahin As the 2 main organisers, we would like to thank all the staff at the school who helped towards the organising of the tournament, both before the event and on the day itself. It really was a team effort. A big thank you also to the Parents who helped out on the day, as well the support from the coaches at British Schools Football. Richard Hume and Oxana Pozdnyakova

Community

e rd Pe a h c i R

Summer in the City The buds have sprung on the trees, birds are flying high in the sky, the sun is out and people are showing emotions that have been lost during the cold months. The summer has finally arrived in Moscow! It’s that time of the year again when life is truly worth living. To leave the city in search of adventure, the calmer pace of life on the beach, visit family at home or tend to the gardens in the summer cottage, the summer is here and you should make the most of it whilst it lasts. But what about staying in the city, what are the options for a family who will stay in Moscow? Moscow Expat Life has selected six different options for parents with children.

1) British Football School

2) Cultural Center Moskvich

Ages: 5 to 14 Cost: 20,000p-25000p per week (Monday to Saturday), 5,000p per day or 3,000p per half day (4 hours). Address: Vasilita Botyleva 41, Moscow. Subway: Molodezhnaya Opening times: Daily 10.00-17.00. Phone: +7 (925) 433 55 76. Website: britishfootballschool.com/training/holiday-camp

Ages: 2 to 9 Cost: 700p per hour Address: Volgograd Prospect, 46/15 Subway: Textile Opening times: Daily 10.00-20.00, with a break from 15.00-16.00. Phone: +7 (499) 178 36 06 Website: mskcc.ru

British Football School offers boys and girls aged 5 to 14 years the chance to receive fun football training at their summer football camps. Led by British football coaches, their training sessions develop individual football skills and increase physical fitness, as well as building confidence and teamwork skills. The sessions are delivered within a fun, safe and friendly, English-speaking environment. Based in the west of Moscow there are a number of courses available during June, July and August.

A variety of activities for children aged 2-9 are available at Cultural Centre Moskvich. Pop-dance ensemble ‘Pinocchio’, dance club ‘Aleko’ or folklore ensemble ‘Rossiyanochka’ welcome new members and help engage children in different styles of dance. The centre also houses a sand animation centre and other arts studios. Various acting and photography courses are on offer.

Community 3) School of Sherlock Ages: 5-12 Cost: 10,000 roubles (1 week). Address: Moscow, Four-wheel series, 3, Building 1 Subway: Textile Opening times: Monday to Friday, 09.00-19.00. Phone: + 7 (968) 952 50 96 Website: boolkee.ru

Every weekday from 9.00-19.00 in Sparrow Hills Park, children can take part in a detective quest ‘School of Sherlock.’ Children will publish a magazine, create a toy store, interior design room, master the skills of make-up artist, a landscape designer, and many others. Their website states that all tutors are the real masters of their craft.

4) ‘Green School’ in Gorky Park Ages: 4-14 Address: Krymsky Val, 9 Subway: Park Kultury Opening times: daily,12.00-20.00 Phone: +7 (903) 719 14 84 Website: www.park-gorkogo.com/kids/greenschool Cost: 200-500 roubles per hour

Green School in Gorky Park offers creative workshops in an urban summer cottage environment. Children are engaged in creative work such as joinery, cooking and gardening. Care for plants. For the youngest pupils aged 4, Green nursery school offers KUMON education and wall painting. Classes for children from 5-14 includes joinery, gardening and horticulture, botany, pottery, science, cooking and even etiquette!

5) Creative Workshops Centre ‘Winery’ Ages: 6-15 Cost: 1,500p-1,600 roubles per day. 900 roubles per half-day or 250 roubles per hour. Address: 4 Syromyatnicheskiy Lane 1/8, Building 6 Subway: Kursk, Chkalovskaya Opening times: May to August, 9.00-21.00 Phone: +7 (495) 604 41 25 Website: winzavod.tvorchmaster.ru/?p=3121

At Winery there is a new theme each week, including ceramics and sculpture, stage performances, designing models of ships and aircraft, as well as drawing cartoons and painting. The day is broken up by walks around the local area. At the end of each day there is a final exhibition, show or performance.

6) Studio ‘Living Watercolors’ Ages: 7-18 Cost: ……. Address: Svetlogorsk passage, 13/7 Subway: Mitino, Skhodnenskaya Phone: + 7 (910) 455 13 77 Website: www.zh-akvareli.ru

The studio ‘Living Watercolors’ is located in a three-storey historic tower on the Bratsevo estate. Children and young adults can learn hip-hop dancing, acting and singing, and also create crafts in the evening. The studio has an anti-cafe living room where parents can work while their children play.

Community

When Will The Hot Water Be Turned Off?

olitics, finance and war aside, probably the most important question, or perhaps the most important question facing expats right now is ‘when will the hot water be turned off?’ It is one of Moscow’s great traditions that supplies of hot water to most, but not all residential buildings is cut off for up to 9 days in Moscow from May 12th onwards. Don’t ask why, as there have been many contrary opinions on why this interesting phenomenon occurs every year circulating in expat circles.

Ours is not to reason why, ours is to keep body odor down!

However, what is important is to find out when the supply to your building is to be cut off. With a bit of notice you can go out and buy an electric water heater and get it fitted. That you can do if you know how to find a plumber, if you don’t, get your landlord to organise this. Alternatively it’s a good idea to arrange with friends to take showers at their places. Sometimes a notice is stuck onto front doors of apartment buildings announcing when the hot water is going to be cut off, and sometimes it isn’t. Don’t worry, stay happy! You can find out when supplies are to be cut off by checking an interactive page of the electricity supply company’s web page: www.oaomoek.ru The web site is in Russian (unsurprisingly), so get somebody to help you if you can’t read ithe local lingua. The instructions are ridiculously simple. Hit the large graphic in the centre of the page: You will see three drop down boxes in the top of this box. In the first, select the region of Moscow you live in (East, West, Central…). If you do not know in which area of Moscow you live in, ask any of your neighbours, or look at a utilities bill for your flat. In the right hand box, scroll down until you find the street your building is located, and in the 3rd box, the number of the building. It’s a simple as that, and hey presto! Up come the dates when your building’s hot water is to be cut off.

www.oaomoek.ru 12

Community

Ro Luci

drigu

Moscow Expat SUBBOTNIK

‘I am lucky, you are lucky: let us get lucky together!’ That lovely song by Kate Micucci became the anthem for the Moscow Expat Subbotnik in Novodevichiy Park on Saturday, April 25. The Expat Subbotnik was much more than a traditional spring clean-up. It was an international festival of bright smiles and hardworking hands. Volunteers of all ages and nationalities worked and had fun together in an atmosphere of friendship and unity. The citywide ‘subbotniki’ on April 18th and 25th were initiated by Mosgorpark, while the Expat Subbotnik was coordinated by Korsa Media, which organizes the famous Moscow Youth Soccer League, and MPC Social Services, a charity that supports refugees, pensioners, and marginalized families. The goal of the event was to give expats and Russians a chance to work side by side to improve the city. Saturday morning was quite chilly and rainy, but the weather didn’t dampen volunteers’ spirits. Led by professional runners from the RRUNS club, the volunteers started the day at 10:30 with a morning run around

Novodevichiy Pond to warm up and wake up. No one could resist the runners’ contagious energy: the bad weather was forgotten and everyone was ready to start cleaning up the park. Over 100 people participated in the Expat Subbotnik. “We were quite surprised and at the same time very pleased to see how much enthusiasm people have! The volunteers arrived and started asking for tools right away, being happy with any task. The communication was very positive, and we enjoyed the dynamics of the event,” said Ksenia Mershina, one of the Expat Subbotnik organizers from Korsa Media. The volunteers not only cleaned the park, but also painted and installed wooden birdhouses and fed the numerous birds living in Novodevichiy Park. After the clean-up, people played soccer, visited a flea market, and a took part in a book exchange. Volunteers enjoyed tea and coffee from the Julius Meinl company, delicious Pringles chips and ‘samsa’ (traditional Asian lamb pies) provided by Novodevichiy Park. Food vendors GansKitchen,

Пян-Сё, and Cocoyoyo helped give the volunteers energy. Everyone could try coconut water, traditional Russian ‘svekolnik’ beet soup and ‘herring under fur’ salad, as well as Korean and other Asian street cuisine. For dessert, the Moscow Youth Soccer League offered delicious homemade muffins and encouraged everyone to make a donation to help the organization save up to rent a field for the next upcoming football event, the Moscow Youth Champions League, which is taking place in May. The Expat Subbotnik fun continues through a photo contest on Facebook and Instagram. Volunteers can post their photos with #expatsubbotnik. The best photo will receive a 3,000 RUB gift certificate for any service at the Expat Salon. Moscow Expat Subbotnik was a great feast-day full of joy. “We were glad to share this Saturday with such positive and active volunteers and we very much hope that the Expat Subotnik will become an annual event in Moscow,” said Imanni Burg, an Expat Subbotnik organizer from MPC Social Services.

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Little-Known Learning Sophia Tupolev is a Russian-American who spends her summers in Moscow, where she leads the Russian Conversation Club, which she founded in 2009. She is the Russia Representative for American Citizens Abroad, an advocacy group for American expats’ rights. Her expat Q&A blog is at www.asksophie.ru for any questions lev about living in Russia. Tupo ia

Soph

For a city where everything is for sale, there are a surprising number of free and non-profit classes and educational activities. This season’s column is all about what you can learn this summer and beyond. These are the addresses to know to discover Moscow’s bubbling fountains of knowledge. Russian fluency is not a requirement for most of the following, but you should know the words урок (lesson) oткрытый урок (free lesson), and мастер класс (master class, workshop). This list will be up on the AskSophie blog.

ART The Russian Academy of Arts at 19 Prechistenka St., hosts oil painters of all ages at Zurab Tsereteli’s studio on some weekends. Participation is free and materials are provided, too. Call on the preceding Thursday to confirm if it’s on that weekend. +7 495 637 4150. The Strelka Institute has a fascinating, bilingual summer lecture series, films, and cultural events. http:// www.strelka.com/en/summer

There are periodic art classes and workshops at the Flacon Design Center http://flacon.ru/ and Garage Center http://garageccc.com/. With two locations at Vinzavod and VDNKh, Tvorchmaster has fairly-priced art classes for children and full day programs, too. There are also pottery classes for adults. http://tvorchmaster.ru/

Community FOREIGN LANGUAGES AND INTERNATIONAL CULTURES The ZIL Culture Center has a variety of classes and workshops, such as the free French conversation club, La boîte noirе. http://www.zilcc.ru/ http://russia.korean-culture.org/ http://www.hecucenter.ru/ru/ http://www.iccrindia.net/moscow.html Of course, I have to mention my own Russian Conversation Club, which welcomes speakers of Russian from novice to native on Sunday afternoons. http://www.key2moscow.com The Foreign Literature Library at 1 Nikoloyamskaya Street is home to the following foreign cultural centers: The Azerbaijani Center offers Azerbaijani language and history classes. culture-az@mail.ru The American Center packs the calendar with free lectures, films, workshops, and clubs in English such as a debate club and a public speaking club. http://amc.ru/ The Bulgarian Center teaches Bulgarian language and folk dancing. http://www.bcimoscow.ru/en/ The British Council has classes for English teachers. http://www.britishcouncil.ru/ The Japan Foundation offers courses in Japanese, tea ceremony, origami, calligraphy, Shogi, and even kimono. http://www.jpfmw.ru/

SPORTS, DANCE, AND YOGA The iYoga Center at Trubnaya has free yoga classes every other Saturday. http://vedalife.ru/ raspisanie Kundalini Yoga has free classes in English and Russian. http://moscow.sahajayoga.ru/ http://www.park-gorkogo.com/eng/sport/ http://park.sokolniki.com/rus/visitors/clubs/ dancingclub.aspx

SPIRITUALITY The Moscow Buddhist Center has classes and meditation. http://www.mantra.ru/en/ http://www.jewishmoscow.com/ Russian speakers can take Judaica classes at Sredi Svoikh, near Park Kultury. http://sredisvoih.com/ St. Andrew’s Anglican Church has Sunday School in English for children of different age groups. http://moscowanglican.org/ http://www.lutherancathedral.ru/

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International Women’s Club of Moscow Charity Art Exhibition and Auction at the PwC House Thank you to photographers Olga Suchkova and Ilya Musaelov

t is always exciting to do something for the first time, but sometimes it is even more exciting to do something for the second time. Of course one wonders whether it will be as good as the first time, but after the second IWC Charity Art Exhibition and Auction, which was organized on March 20 at the PwC House, the IWC is proud to say that this year’s event not only met the

expectations but in many ways it exceeded them. The event had an even more professional approach as Ms Saskia Ozols Eubanks, an experienced curator, volunteered to help organize the exhibition and to lead the auction. Thanks to sponsors such as PWC, Interform Design, Pepsico and Speransky Hospital an inspiring location was found, where an open wine

bar and appetizers accompanied by live music immediately brought participants in the right atmosphere. Artists Lubov Lubvina, Marie de La Ville Baugé, Ijen Warner, Katerina Gutnikova-Mikhailova, Saskia Ozols Eubanks, Ludmilla Varlamova, David Mercer, Elena Afanasieva, Tatiana Karamysheva, Mikhail Barinov, Catherine de la Hosseraye, Kim Kegelev, Mila Abruzova,

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Maria Vilkaste, Bianca Alexandra Jutaru, Tran Thi Thao Hien, Gloria Parolin and Anna Schipper-Cherkasova generously donated a piece of their work for the auction, and the IWC is grateful to each and every one of them for their support, which allowed the Club to raise over 200,000 RUR for people in need! A special thanks of course also goes to all participants for their enthusiastic bidding. Art lovers that missed this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s event or are already looking forward to the next one will be happy to hear that the IWC is eager to continue this tradition and wants to organize an even more successful Art Exhibition and Auction next year.

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At the Hudson Barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 3rd Birthday! Photographs by John Harrison and the Hudson bar official photographer

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Community Photographers: Kira Hagen and Daniil Abakumov

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Emerald Ball 2015 T

he biggest & brightest event in the Irish cultural calendar was held on Saturday March 14th at the Renaissance Monarch on Leningradsky Prospect. Attended by over 300 lively guests, a grand total of 663,000 roubles was raised for MPCSS (MPC Social Services). As a first time recipient of the Irish Clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s support, this money will be used to feed over 200 elderly & vulnerable Moscow residents and over 150 destitute & single parent families. This is an extremely worthwhile cause & made possible only through the generosity of all guests and sponsors on the night.

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St. Patrick’s Day 2015, M o s c o w ,

ark Sokolniki was host to the 23rd annual St Patrick’s Day Parade on March 14th earlier in the year. Proving to be an ideal location for the second year running, the crowd was decked out in green, white and orange with great splendor. Marchers, performing for

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the spectators of all ages, included cheerleaders, stilt walkers, the newly formed Moscow GAA Shamrocks & a mixed group of musicians. The Moscow Mayor’s office and the Irish Club’s organization provided security to ensure smooth running for the day’s festivities. The Ambassador to Ireland – Eoin O’Leary

was on hand to deliver his speech and cheer on the performers as well as other dignitaries and members of the broader Irish community. Officially about four hundred Irish passport holders reside in Russia but, for the day that it was, it felt like there was Irishness everywhere.

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v. lfero na. A y e g gi y Ser lina Vata b t x Te Po os by t o h P

Repeat, Having Passed a Couple

hat can bring Russians, Belarusians and the English residing in Moscow, Nizhny Novgorod, Cheboksary, Yaroslavl, Saint Petersburg and Minsk together? The answer is simple, if a bit unexpected: their passion for Scottish country dancing! On 28 March 2015 Moscow St. Andrew’s Anglican Church hosted the Spring Scottish country dance ball, which was organised by the Shady Glen dance school, together with the Moscow Branch of the Royal Scottish Country Dance Society. Kilted men in white shirts and ladies in smart dresses indulged in Scottish jigs, reels and strathspeys

accompanied by Anatoly Isaev (Scottish button accordion) and Vladimir Volkov (fiddle). As the dancers had been preparing to the event beforehand, in most cases they only needed a brief reminder (‘recap’) of what was to follow right before each dance. This quick recap was provided in English by Sergey Alferov, the MC of the night. By the look of it, this might have been happening in Edinburgh, Vancouver, Sydney, Singapore or Tokyo: Scottish country dancing found its way into the globalised multicultural milieu in the second half of the previous century thanks to the energy and enthusiasm of members of the Royal Scottish Country Dance Society.

Nowadays, Scottish country dancing attracts people of various ages and dance backgrounds from around the globe. Russia is no exception. What is exceptional, though, is the age of most Russian dancers. It ranges from early 20s to late 30s and is some 30-40 years lower than the age of most Scottish country dancers elsewhere in the world. So, if you want a unique hobby allowing you to find a welcoming local community and get a sense of belonging wherever you go, Scottish country dancing may be just the thing! There are several groups to join in Moscow, one of them being an interest group of the International Women’s Club (IWC).

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Photographers: David Mercer and Valery Levtsun

The 4th annual Aussie Down Under Charity Ball

he 4th annual Aussie Down Under Charity Ball 2015, held on April 18th at Moscow’s Radisson Royal Hotel Ukraina, was a phenomenal success! The hotel’s opulent interiors immediately set the mood for an unprecedented evening; while kangaroo projections leaping across the walls added the finishing Aussie touches. The guest of honour this year was Australian boxing legend Kostya Tzu and his lovely wife Tanya. Gabe, the Aussie cowboy was in fine form as always, showing his MC-ing and auctioneering prowess as well as performing classic Australian rock with renowned Aussie musician David Peachey.

The menu touted succulent Australian lamb, proudly supplied by MLA. Amongst the multitude of prizes offered; the charity raffle also displayed the traditional Lotus BBQ grill by Kostya Tzu, the ‘Aussie Survival Pack’, comprising a Techni-Ice cooler box, full of Aussie goodies and genuine Aussie Blundstone boots. While the auction offered Aboriginal paintings and a boomerang. Breaking last year’s record once again, the evening raised 3.7 million roubles for ‘BBBS Russia’ – Big Brothers Big Sisters mentoring program helps Russia’s forgotten children to assimilate social skills and responsibilities, preparing them for adulthood.

www.facebook.com/groups/downunderballmoscow/

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Community The Business Lounge, a thermometer of the disparity between men and women ik by N

ita

remember a time when I was on maternity leave and my children were very young, I would experience the nightly fear of the approaching dusk and everything that brought: tired, grumpy kids, the grinding routine of feeding, washing and changing, and the circus of putting them to bed. One night my routine was split asunder when the phone rang. It was my husband calling to tell me that he had landed (from a plane no doubt), that he was waiting for his connection and that he was about to take a shower. I remember thinking that neither of us were in a good place. How wrong I was! I found this out when we were travelling together and we visited one of these mysterious places where he used to take a shower: the ‘Business Lounge’. Automatic doors, tinted

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“One Chinese customer purchased a fully refundable first class plane ticket and then re-booked it 300 times to receive free meals at the business lounge and this is not an isolated case”

windows that open onto an oasis of peace – a stress-free escape from the hustle and bustle of the main airport terminal. Its quiet atmosphere softened further by smiling hostesses warmly greeting you with complimentary newspapers and glossy magazines, an extensive premium open bar with champagne flutes, a rich selection of wines, delicious aperitifs, hot and cold buffet meals, desserts, coffee tables, sofas, internet workstations, telephones, free wi-fi, television, nap rooms and showers with towels, luxury toiletries and hairdryers. Here, precisely on that day, I swore to myself that to indulge in a business lounge would be my primary goal. 12 years later, I finally reach the status of ‘frequent flyer,’ which gives me access to what is the travel industry’s best-kept secret – the airport lounges. The service is remarkable and understandably so because the most profitable segment of the market for the airline industry is that small slice of plane seats at the front – the business class – whose travellers are rewarded with admission to the ‘all-inclusive lounge’. Finding myself more regularly in the business lounges of Western Europe, something suddenly strikes me – I notice that these are attended almost exclusively by men. How come? The world is full of working women.

More texts by Nikita can be found on: by-nikita.com

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“Russia with 43% is in first place for the number of women in senior management positions”

The world is full of women travelling. Yes, this is true, but it seems that it is not full of women travelling for work in business. And that suggests only one thing, that there are still very few women in the world who hold top business positions in companies and the sophisticated lounge confirms the statistics. Indeed, the Grant Thornton International Business report 2014, certifies that in Western Europe only 14% of women hold top positions. The situation improves a bit in the United States with 22%. Russia with 43% is in first place for the number of women in senior management positions. The report suggests that this percentage reflects the emphasis on ‘equal opportunities for all’ in the Soviet period, where both women and men worked. Why then are Russia’s lounges devoid of women? One answer may lie in the fact that Russian women occupy high positions in service industries such as education, health and accounting; sectors that do not typically lead to travel. All that said, today more and more women are making their way into leadership roles. This trend goes hand in hand with the rapid growth (especially in Asia and South America) of a number of executive women travelling for business. The airlines are still discovering the specific needs of these new customers. Women typically respond by simply asserting that they don’t have different needs from men and would like the same treatment but when asked specifically which services they would like in the lounge they respond ‘a space where to breastfeed, a fitness center, healthy food and decent wine.’ It is difficult to resist the allure of the lounge, typified by one Chinese customer who purchased a fully refundable first class plane ticket

and then re-booked it 300 times to receive free meals at the business lounge and this is not an isolated case. The moral is: a rallying call to women – gain access to the lounge, not as a temporary privilege, but as a permanent status. Once crossing the threshold of the darkened door, make time for yourself without feeling guilty.

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The State of the Business Lunch in Moscow en n Gre

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s we are enduring an economic crisis for the time being, more and more people are looking for ways to cut down on their personal expenditure, including eating out. Quite apart from wining and dining in the evening, which for most people is considered something of a treat, the majority of us encounter this conundrum at lunchtime. This

comes in the guise of what to do, where to go, how long to take and how much to spend? The more peripatetic among us would have come across various terms in Europe to entice us through the door. The British call it: ‘dish of the day;’ the French: ‘plat du jour;’ the Germans: ‘mittagstisch;’ the Italians: ‘piatti del giorno;’ and the piece de resistance goes to the Spanish with: ‘especialidades para el almuerzo!’ The

Russians adopt the ‘k.i.s.s.’ notion (keep it simple, stupid) and call it ‘business lunch.’ With that in mind, I set off on my quest to discover what’s hot and what’s not, in terms of value for money in and around the business areas of downtown Moscow. For the purpose of this exercise I decided that no alcohol will be included with lunch, even though a couple of places I visited offered beer or wine with their set menus. It is fair to

Community say in today’s market very few people drink at lunchtime as this is frowned upon by bosses and work colleagues alike. This is a far cry from the halcyon days of 30 years plus ago when it was ‘de rigeur’ to visit the pub on a Friday lunchtime in the UK with a favoured client, have a pie and a pint (usually two or three if the truth be known!) and leave for home at 2.30 with a lucrative contract under your belt. The first option, which is a great favourite due to its speed and simplicity, is to get a take-away or eat-in sandwich or baguette. The two most prominent outlets offering these are Prime and Subway. The former now has 44 outlets operating in the Moscow area and judging by my own experiences most people tend to use it as a take-away, thus saving on the rather expensive drinks on offer; the exception being the Kamergersky branch which was originally their flagship and still boasts a full café at lunchtimes. The wraps go for 149 roubles with such offerings as chicken satay, but it has to be said the preponderance of their contents are salad orientated. Baguettes go for 159 roubles and you can sometimes get lucky, but my experience is that the bread is quite hard on one’s teeth and the contents can be of dodgy ancestry, i.e., grapes with seeds in them and hard avocado- neither of them an attractive variant. Salads and sushi abound, but while Prime has enjoyed considerable success, I don’t think they always represent value for money. Subway, on the other hand, is very good value, especially if, like me, you’re eating on the hoof: 15cm baguettes are 180 roubles which include the main filling plus an array of salad fillers and a couple of sauces to boot; those with a healthy appetite can plum for the 30cm offerings. However, the best deal is their daily ‘special’ which sees a 15cm baguette go for a mere 129 roubles which I take advantage of on Tuesdays as it’s Tuna Day. I visited various eateries to discover what was on offer, starting with the tried and trusted Silvers. They offer a set meal for 330 roubles which includes a help yourself salad bar and two choices of soup, and I chose the

broccoli and cheese soup which was utterly sublime. There are half a dozen main courses to choose from which rotate regularly so there’s something for everyone. Throw in a soda and you’ll pay 425 roubles and the food is of a consistently high standard. Hudson offer a menu at 390 roubles which includes soup, salad and a main course plus a drink of your choice including beer as well as soda, juice and tea/coffee. They have one main dish a day, fish on Thursdays and pasta or meat on the remaining days, and the menu changes each week. Torro Grill, also in White Square, offer a choice of main dishes plus drink for 360 roubles; salad or soup plus mains for 490 roubles and all three for 690 roubles. The drinks on

offer are the same as Hudson, but substitute beer for a glass of wine. I had the Bolognese fusilli, which was delicious but a little too much for my sparrow’s appetite, so I ended up with a doggy bag, which did nicely for my supper! It has to be said that it’s always busy in there both at lunchtime and in the evenings so they must be doing something right. Sodexo manage many canteens in business centres all over Moscow. It’s a buffet service but you need to watch what you order as you pay extra for vegetables, so by the time you have three courses on your tray, don’t expect any change from a 500 note, and their prices have been escalating of late. I ordered a beef stew type dish that frankly had a lot of fat in it and was as tough as old boots, so I gave it up as a bad job after a few mouthfuls as it reminded me of prolonged involuntary hospital stays. I had an erroneous experience at Shokoladnitsa where they took so long bringing two colas and a coffee, then admitted they had lost the order and got the second attempt wrong as well, so I didn’t bother with their average priced food. This is what happens when you pay staff peanuts, you tend to get monkeys, so if you want to avoid Soviet style service I suggest giving them a wide berth. The most outstanding value for money came from Petrovich in Myasnitskaya which has had only one price rise in 5 years, from 180 to 200 roubles and includes a help yourself as often as you like, a soup and salad stand and a choice of main courses, usually fish, meat or chicken, and unlimited ‘mors’ to drink. Small wonder it’s crowded day in, day out. There is another option which many are taking advantage of: bringing your own food in as most offices have microwaves. Many culinary delights have passed through our office, but avoid bringing in fish as while the taste may be good, the aroma affects all and sundry; indeed many offices have banned the heating of fish for that very reason. In synopsis, there are many deals out there, catering to all tastes – you just have to find them.

Retro

Moscow, 1998 C h kovic

eric Fred

arl joined us as we sat in the staff canteen of the Aerostar Hotel, one of the perks offered by the Canadian JV running the enterprise in return for our leasing office accommodation from them in their business centre. The normally affable Carl, a communication and controls engineer from Lousiana looked distinctly off colour. “Your favourite today Carl – airforce chicken – all wings and undercarriage” the reference was to Carl’s training, he had learned his trade in the US airforce. But he didn’t smile and for the first time I heard him swear, “those mothers in Head Office – they can go….” The last of the phrase was drowned out by someone dropping a lunch tray. When he had calmed down he explained his anger. Two weeks earlier his employer had advanced him twenty five thousand dollars for two months advance rent and the deposit on his new Moscow apartment. Carl worked for a major US oil company so things had to be done by the book. The landlord would have to be paid in roubles and provide evidence of paying tax on the income, hence the exorbitant price, but the agreed rent was denominated in good old USD. Carl being a cautious man did not wish to have that much cash around so had deposited the money in his newly opened rouble bank account. The problem was it was September 2nd and no banks were trading having closed on August 27th due to the masses of citizens trying to remove their savings. At the same time Russia had announced it would default on its International loan repayments. The serious trouble had begun on August 17th when overnight the Kiryenko led Government had devalued the ‘floating peg’ or range

of exchange rate for the rouble against the USD by around 30%, but worrying signs had been there throughout the year. In March an increasingly ailing and unpredictable Yeltsin had fired Prime Minister Victor Chernomyrdin and his cabinet in response to a worsening domestic economy dragged down by low oil and other commodity prices, and a generally sluggish world economy which was recovering from the Asian crisis of the year before. Despite the latest USD 22 billion injection of stabilization funds by the IMF and World Bank in July, the lack of confidence in the rouble both at home and abroad and an inflation rate approaching 80% weighed heavily on the Government’s policy of defending the rouble and capital flight was rife. To make matters worse, reports were emerging that some of the funds, in the region of $5-10 billion had been misappropriated. Corruption was the one thing flourishing in Russia. The fear and the forecast was that when the banks eventually reopen the rouble would trade south of twenty to the dollar, down from six. Carl’s country manager had informed him that a ‘prudent man’ – the moniker would stick with him from then on – would not have trusted a Russian bank in the first

place and he was considering making Carl responsible for the shortfall. The irony was that the lease would have been concluded and the monies already paid had it not been for the slow response of the Oil Company’s own lawyers who insisted on approving such things. Once the banks reopened Kiryenko was removed. Yeltsin tried to reappoint Chernomyrdin but the rival factions in the Duma, primarily the Zuyganov led communists, refused to endorse him and eventually a compromise candidate Yevgenny Primakov was appointed on September 11th. Primakov, an elder statesman and former Head of Foreign Intelligence commanded respect and sought to do his best to protect the wages and savings of state workers and the elderly, but it was an increasingly difficult time for the average citizen. Meanwhile the power and wealth of the Oligarchs continued to grow, they were reaping the benefits of having ensured Yeltsin had been re-elected. At least one though was beginning to experience unease as evidenced when an FSB Lieutenant Colonel appeared on television with four colleagues alleging that among other criminal actions he had been ordered by his immediate boss to kill Boris Berezovsky. The agent, Alexander Litvinenko who four years earlier had investigated a car bomb assassination attempt on Berezovsky, would subsequently be arrested and eventually he would flee Russia and obtain asylum in the UK. He reportedly claimed that he had taken the allegations to the newly appointed Chief of the FSB but the information had been dismissed. That new Chief, a former KGB official, had been selected by Yeltsin from The Presidential Property Management Department in the Kremlin earlier in July. His name, Vladimir Putin.

Benelux Countries’ Community Expats in Moscow from the Benelux Countries represent a small community, however their presence is strongly felt in Moscow. Most Moscow residents from these three comparatively small but important European countries are well placed in Moscow, and make a significant contribution to business and cultural life in Moscow. Here are a few of them. What do you personally think of Moscow and Muscovites?

Ron van Dartel Ambassador of The Netherlands to Russia How many Dutch people are there in Moscow? Over the years, Moscow has continued to be an interesting place for Dutch citizens, notably businessmen. Of course numbers keep changing due to short stay visits of students and tourists from the Netherlands. Overall, I would say more than two hundred Dutch citizens consider Moscow their home base.

What are the community of expats from the Netherlands engaged in? Most of Dutch expats in Russia are here for business reasons. Some of them arrived back in the nineties. People with an entrepreneurial spirit, looking for opportunities in the then new and unknown Russian

market. They have settled in Russia and are currently running their own businesses, from consultants and business to business service providers, to traders and a couple of farmers. This is the core of the Dutch expat community. And there is a larger group of Dutch business people and their families that have been expatriated to Russia on a temporary basis and who are employed by Dutch or multinational companies with establishments in Russia. Most Dutch expats work and live in the vicinity of Moscow and St Petersburg, but they can also be found throughout the country in places like Krasnodar, Belgorod, Nizhny Novgorod, Yekaterinburg, Krasnoyarsk and last but not least Sakhalin where employees of a joint venture of Royal Dutch Shell and Gazprom have created an active Dutch community.

I arrived as Ambassador to Russia almost two years ago, and one thing I immediately noticed is the hospitality of Russians. Whenever you are invited to someone’s home, or to a reception, Russians will make sure there is a broad variety of food and drinks on the table. I was also impressed by the strong family ties, the high level of literacy and the huge interest for culture in Russia. We can enjoy in Moscow – and Russia as a whole – an impressive amount of museums. The Tretyakov Gallery and the Pushkin museum are amongst my favourite museums in Moscow. And not to forget the variety of parks in Moscow, with so many visitors and different activities during the weekend. The bilateral NetherlandsRussia year ‘NLRF 2013’ witnessed a broad range of cultural exchange, including a high number of Dutch expositions in Moscow. Many Dutch museum directors visited Moscow, and were impressed by the professionalism of Russian curators. Moscow is a dynamic city, which continuously amazes its inhabitants and visitors. So far all of my guests have been keen on visiting the Bolshoi and Red Square. And they are always impressed by the design of the city’s metro system. Last but not least, I am fond of the diversity of restaurants in Moscow. The presence of Russian, European, Latin American and Asian cuisine – to name but a few – reflects the diversity of regions and cultures represented in Moscow. Without a doubt, the Russian capital is a city with global allure.

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Alex Van Meeuwen Ambassadeur van Belgie in Moskou How many expats are there in Moscow, and what sort of activities are they engaged in? Moscow counts about 500 Belgian residents. A large majority of them work for private companies, Belgian, Russian or international companies, and in different sectors (banking, services, retail, etc.). Some Belgian citizens work in Moscow in the cultural or educational field. Each year about 10 Belgian students register at one of the Moscow universities, either for a MBA or to study Russian. In spite of the crisis, the number of Belgian expats visiting or staying in Russia did not seem to fall. We even observed a slight increase since last year.

realized the huge potential of this country. However, we need to recognize that the current crisis severely affects everyone. These days our Belgian Russian Business Club and our Chamber of Commerce are frequently consulted and their events numerously attended, as businessmen more than ever feel the need to share experiences and analyses of the political and economic situation. I strongly believe that after the crisis, European companies will be able to regain their market shares on the Russian market. One important characteristic of the Russian business mentality is loyalty towards business partners, once confidence is settled. This is one of the elements which gives me hope for the future.

What are the main differences in business etiquette between Russian and Belgian business practices?

What are the key aspects of Russian culture that you would like Belgian people to know about?

First of all, I would like to stress that the Belgian business community was and remains very happy to be present in Russia and on the Russian market. Between the financial crisis of 2008/2009 and the current crisis, our businesses here were flourishing and expanded each year. During that period, many businessmen

I have the impression that many Belgians have some difficulties understanding Russia and its citizens. In my view, in order to understand Russia, one should read into its long and fascinating history, get acquainted with its geographical but also cultural position between the East and the West, and try to pay

a visit to Moscow or Saint Petersburg in order to get a feel of the grandeur of its cities. Many Belgians and Russians share an interest for spending time with family, travelling abroad, and sharing a good meal with friends.

What is it like living and working in Moscow at the moment? Although recently Europe and Russia have met some important challenges, every day work for a foreign diplomat in Moscow is about finding common ground and fostering people-to-people contacts in all possible areas. We at the Embassy are constantly on the look for new opportunities, which also requires a serious effort to familiarize with the Russian language. Moscow is a huge, vibrant city to live in. It offers possibilities to meet Russians from all corners of the Russian Federation and from around the world, and invites to interact in many ways. Anyone living here is constantly reminded of the historical and cultural legacy of this country, which is also an interesting source of discussion about the future. My hope and understanding is that this may be a common future with Europe.

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Benelux Countries’ Community Do you think that politics is determined by culture?

rris Ambassador of the Grand-Duchy n Ha h o J y iew b of Luxembourg nterv

Partially yes, I think that they both influence each other, but culture does have a big influence on politics. Cultural perceptions do matter. You must always take into account the education and background of who you are speaking to. If I am communicating to a Russian lady of 70 years old, I have to remember that she may remember what it was actually like to live in Stalinist Russia, what a difference to me – who grew up in the Luxembourg of the 1970s, after the flower power revolution of the 1960s. This is something that makes the life of a diplomat very interesting as one has the chance to travel form country to country and from culture to culture.

How long have you been living here Mr Ambassador?

What are the specifics of doing business in Russia?

Mr Pierre Ferring on

I arrived on the 18th of August 2011. I was one of the last group of ambassadors to present my credentials to President Medvedev in December 2011.

Hopw do you find Russians? The Russians are very friendly towards us. I have not yet encountered any problems. My basic principal is to be friendly and then you will get lots of friendliness back. I don’t think Russians are any different from Luxembourgiana; people are people. I do have a problem and that is that I don’t speak the language very well although I have been studying it for two years. Communicating through a translator is always cumbersome. I think that people prefer to speak in their own language.

Do Russians know where Luxembourg is? I was actually surprised to find out that most Russians have a pretty good idea where Luxembourg is. It seems that they have good

geography lessons in the schools, but of course they wouldn’t tell the Luxembourgian Ambassador if they did not know, as a matter of courtesy.

How do you find Russia? For us, Russia is Europe. We were previously posted to China for 6 years, so when we arrived here it really was like coming back to Europe. Of course Russia is not the same as Western Europe, and Russia has a huge Asian part, but the basic culture is European, which is something I appreciate when I go to see a ballet here and listen to Tchaikovsky, for example. Of course you can get to see fantastic ballets in Shanghai these days, but Tchaikovsky is a Russian composer and you can certainly feel that, and feel the old traditional European culture when you are here. That doesn’t mean that I think that Moscow is like Paris or London, as Europe is a very diverse and rich continent as far as culture goes. Italy for example is very different from Ireland. Overall, the feeling that I had when I arrived here is that I had come back home to a European based culture.

When Russians want to come to a deal they are very fast. When they know what they want they try to achieve it without procrastinating. It is not a bad culture to do business in. When you are in Russia you have to be aware of the specifics of Russian culture, which is varied within itself. My former boss told me once that you are not a diplomat to teach. Leave that to teachers. If you are a diplomat, behave like one. I do not want to denigrate teachers, what would we expats do without our schools? Education for our children is probably one of the most important aspects of our lives, along with healthcare.

Is the cultural overlap between European countries enough to overcome the present tensions between European nations? Europe has always been able to withstand pressure and it will be the same this time. We saw so many problems in the 20th century, but in the end we will see that cultural links are the strongest links.

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Johan Vanderplaetse Vice-President, Europe Eastern Region, Emerson Russia Chairman of the Belgian-Russian Business Club (BRBC) What brought you to Russia, and how long have you been living here? There were actually a number of things that brought me to Russia. I had visited Moscow and St-Petersburg for the first time back in 1990, in what was still the Soviet Union. I was then still a student, and was fascinated by the country and its people. Although it was the time of Perestroika and Glasnost, the country was still very much a mystery to Westerners. I remember the empty shops, the long row in front of the McDonalds at Pushkin Square, but also the first private shops and restaurants that had appeared, the warmth of the people and their hopes for a better future. So when I graduated from law school back in 1992, I decided to go to Moscow and study the Russian language at the Pushkin Institute. I reasoned that there would be career opportunities in this market that was just opening up, but that you would have to speak the language. So I just packed my bags and lived a year with a Russian family. By that time, the Soviet Union did not exist, and Russia was trying to transform

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“I remember the empty shops, the long row in front of the McDonalds at Pushkin Square, but also the first private shops and restaurants that had appeared, the warmth of the people and their hopes for a better future.”

itself into a market economy and democracy. It was like seeing history playing out in front of your eyes. I travelled to almost every corner of this vast country, and understood that Moscow is not Russia. The more I learned, the more I appreciated the complexities of the Russian culture. But at the same time, there were of course the fun element of living here as a student in those days. Papa Jones, the legendary Hungry Duck, Rosie O’Gradies,... Those who lived in Moscow at the time will know what I mean

Why do you stay? The same fascination for the country and the people, and also

the dynamics of seeing the society transform. Compared to living in Russia, life in Belgium is actually very dull, and nothing really big ever happens there. In Russia, you live the extremes. You see tremendous business opportunities and growth, but also downturns like in 1998, 2008 and now again. And my own career of course made me stay. Following my studies at the Pushkin Institute, I started to work in 1993 as a lawyer for Alcatel, a large telecom vendor. Alcatel had at the time a joint-venture in St-Petersburg, so I moved there. From 1996 till 1998, I then moved to Almaty, Kazakhstan, where I worked for a venture-capital fund that was set-up by the EBRD. But I was just 30 years old when Alcatel asked me in 1998 to return to them and offered me the position of CEO Russia. Obviously I took the challenge. The business grew very fast, from $60m in 1998 to around $800m in 2008. At that time, I was up for a new challenge and left Alcatel to lead the activities of an American multinational, Emerson, in Russia/CIS and Eastern Europe. Working for an American company in Russia in the Oil & Gas sector is, to say the least, very interesting. But we have a strong strategy focused on localization and import substitution, in fact we open our new factory in Chelyabinsk this spring. Employing over 1,700 staff in Russia, Emerson is considered locally a Russian company. So I look with confidence to the future.

What are the main differences in the way that Russians do business in comparison to Belgians?

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“But at the same time, there were of course the fun element of living here as a student in those days. Papa Jones, the legendary Hungry Duck, Rosie O’Gradies,... Those who lived in Moscow at the time will know what I mean”.

Benelux Countries’ Community Let us start maybe with the similarities. Russian people are rightfully demanding the very best quality for their products and services. They are very well informed about competitive offerings, and are sharp negotiators. So you need to invest in a proper organization, also for post-sales support, and, recently, local manufacturing became critically important. While the days of going to the Banya and drinking vodka are long gone, it is still very important to establish a good personal relationship with your customers. And, again, speaking the Russian language is absolutely necessary.

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“Companies that stick to this market today or even open their business now, will come out on top. Those who leave will have lost the market when business rebounds. And it will rebound just as it did after previous crises.”

The difference that is less positive is, of course, the mind-staggering bureaucracy. You need papers, stamps, acts, for almost everything. In the UK, Emerson has a business which, in size, is comparable to our Russian business. But in Russia, we employ ten times as many accountants and lawyers.

Do you think Russian-Belgian friendship and business activities will continue through the present crisis? For a couple of years now, I have been the Chairman of the BelgianRussian Business Club (BRBC), which was established with the support of the Belgian embassy. As a non-profit organization, we regularly have meetings with the Belgian business community and Russians working for Belgian companies. We have typically a presenter talking about a topic of general interest, and we of course network. During our last meetings, we had for instance Jones Lang LaSalle giving a presentation on the Moscow commercial real estate market and

how to optimize rents, or we had Dentons talking about the accession of Russia to the WTO. We also arrange visits to Belgian production facilities in Russia, like InBev or AGC-glass. A lot is taking place. And when talking to our Belgian friends, we see a clear dedication to the market. You have indeed to think long term. Companies that stick to this market today or even open their business now, will come out on top. Those who leave will have lost the market when business rebounds. And it will rebound just as it did after previous crises. So yes, the Belgian-Russian friendship is here to stay, and having new Belgian cafes in Moscow offering our delicious beers will only further help this friendship to become even stronger. Belgian Russian Business Club (BRBC) Secretariat: Anna Korneeva Tel.: +7 495 424 88 33 Email: belgianrussianbusinessclub@ gmail.com

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Luc Truyens

General Director ING Commercial Banking in Russia When did you move to Russia? How long have you been working for ING here? We moved in 2012, so I have been here for almost three years. And, I think, one of the most astonishing experiences and impressions about the country is that time passes extremely quickly. I believe that this is linked to the ever-changing environment; not only in the geopolitical sense – there is never a dull moment. Before I came here I worked for ING in Belgium and also in Australia, so this is not my first posting abroad. I recall that when the CEO asked me if I wanted to go to Russia, I said: “Russia?”. Relocating overseas to a foreign country is adventurous and also challenging, both then and now. So, right then lots of questions came to mind: “How about the overall safety in Moscow?”, “How good is the health care system in Russia and do I need special vaccinations?”, “Is the climate harsh?”, “Are people friendly or hostile?” And many more questions… I had an open discussion with my wife and we decided that we should come. Living in Russia as an expat is surely a unique experience. When we settled in Moscow, we started exploring, of course, discovering the Russian way of life in all its facets, and soon found our way extremely well. I could, possibly, find hundreds of reasons to say why I do not like Russia, but I do not do that because I actually like being here.

After three years, I cannot say that I understand everything about Russia. But what I am really sure of is that you have to be flexible, capable of adjusting to new realities. I know people who arrived in Russia and never adapted; I also know expatriates who have been living and working here for many years, in lots of cases pretty much willing to prolong their stay.

Do relationships you build here with your clients differ from those you built in Belgium? Relationships in Russia are no less important than in Belgium, they do matter a lot. ING has been in Russia for nearly 23 years and is fully dedicated to providing innovative financial services to Russian clients and to foreign-based clients operating in Russia. The objective is to make the needs of clients the focus of our business activities. We do strive to have open dialogues and serve our clients in a most transparent way. Of course our business depends on the market and the current geopolitical reality.

What kind of clients do you have here in Russia? We have two kinds of companies among our clients: blue-chips and international companies. The good thing is that both of these company types are professionals,

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Benelux Countries’ Community with an excellent understanding of banking. Of course, it takes time to develop a relationship, but when people see that you are competent, understand the business and can deliver on your promises, I think, from that moment on you gain respect.

Dutch, Irish, German, Austrian and French. Going back to my wife, that is something else she appreciates – a big network of expats. If you are open, you can connect with people.

So, people are really competent here?

Belgians are food-lovers; we do not like plain food. So, it is always interesting to find something unusual. Quite recently we discovered an excellent Nordic Cuisine restaurant ‘Orange 3’ famous for its stylish and creative approach to cooking. We have also fallen in love with the genuine home Georgian food here. One of the Georgian restaurants we like to go to is ‘Elargy’, located in one of the most picturesque parts of the Old Moscow – among the narrow streets of the Arbat, surrounded by architectural masterpieces and old-Moscow mansions. The Summer Café in ‘Scandinavia’ restaurant is also great. Close to the bank here is one of my favourite restaurants ‘Italianets’ remarkable for its authentic Italian cuisine. And, finally, there is another restaurant place we like called ‘As Eat Is’ which is close to Patriarshiye Ponds. Apart from food, I think one of the best-kept secrets here is the Moscow summer. The winter is not that bad either, as it is not consistently cold and freezing like people say, but has its ups and downs. As for the summer, it is amazing - the whole place is completely transformed!

Yes, and this is the other thing that makes Russia so interesting for me. I have found extremely competant staff here. We are working in a segment of the market that operates according to international standards. Most of our clients are quoted not only on the Russian stock market, but also on the London stock exchange. Sure. Russians do not come to work at 8 o’clock in the morning like in Belgium, but when I leave the office at 7 o’clock they are still working. The only problem I occasionally observe in Russia is the necessity to encourage people to work together as a team. This is the only area where, I think, Russia has something to learn.

What does your wife think of it all here in Russia? Our children are now grown-ups, so they did not come with us like they did when we were in Australia. My wife likes Russia a lot because she is culturally minded. She has got really into the history of this country and she is very involved with various International Women’s Clubs. She has made a great effort to learn the language, unlike me, and actively uses her Russian. We also like living in the centre of Moscow, close to Patriarshiye Ponds. Yes, sometimes things break down, but in general everything is really good here, so she likes it.

There aren’t that many Belgians here, are there? No, and we do not have a great tendency to mix together easily. I got involved with the Russian Belgian Business Club that organises various events with participation of recognized experts who share their expertise and sketch out for us the current political landscape in Russia and its relations with the West. I am sure this is a fantastic way to keep in touch and meet new people. I also benefit because I work for a Dutch company, as I can easily join the Dutch business community. The Ambassador of the Netherlands in Russia plays a very significant role in uniting the Dutch people, chairing events dedicated to recent business experiences updates on the Russian market and other topics. In general, one of the wonderful things about living here is that there is a large expat community which one can easily become part of. We have good friends who are Belgian,

Do you have a favourite restaurant here?

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Hans Koelman Owner of ‘The Nachtwacht’ restaurant How long have you been in Russia? 25 years

So you have seen a lot of changes? Yes, and they are still going on. This is the first time in 25 years that I’m not sure what is happening. In the past there were crises, but the rest of the world was not against Russia. There are a lot of bad things happening right now, but there are also some good things. The sanctions are bad but they bring many opportunities. A lot of my friends have gone out of business and a lot of foreigners are not here any more.

now. And this is something new, I have never had to be careful like that in the 25 years that I have been living here.

You have a family here, you must really like it here, otherwise you would have left. I like the people and I like the culture, and I like the combination of both. When I first came here in 1989 I liked it. I must say that in Europe a lot of the traditions have gone, but they’re still here.

How do you find working with business people in Moscow in comparison to working with Dutch people back home?

But you don’t feel that now?

There is no comparison, it is completely different. They move quickly, they make decisions quickly. Of course now people understand due diligence and that takes a bit of time but usually things are done very quickly here, and then they move on to the next thing. Us Europeans sometimes miss opportunities because we cannot move that quickly.

No not yet. I am basically proRussian, but I see the discussions going on and of course you have to be careful

So do you think that Russians should learn from Europeans or Europeans from Russians?

But you are not leaving? No if the time comes when my family is threatened and there is hostility against foreigners, then the time will have come to leave.

I heard the most ridiculous thing a few days ago, when the new head of NATO said that we had tried to make Russia a partner for many years, but it didn’t work out. The attitude is that we have to teach the Russians something; we have to show the Russians how to behave. If I go to Belgium or to France people behave in completely different ways than in The Netherlands. Why should I expect and why should NATO expect everybody to believe in the same things, and behave in the same way? Yes of course there is corruption here and there are a lot of bad things; but at the same time, there are more good things. I do not know if democracy is the right thing for this country, it needs a strong hand to keep it together. Look what happened in the 1990s, there was chaos everywhere, and people were actually selling off bits of Russia. These people, and it’s not just Putin, it’s a group of them, are putting it back together again and keeping it strong, and now it is one of the strongest countries in the world. So can you say that Putin is doing a bad job? I don’t think so. For me it’s difficult to talk about such things because I’m both a European, and pro-Russian, and that isn’t accepted back home.

Let’s get back to the restaurant, who are your clients? It’s more of a community bar and it’s also kind of centre for the Dutch community as well. There are a lot of expats who live here in this area, and maybe they didn’t know each other before they came here, so that’s nice. It’s like in Amsterdam where somebody’s going away and they leave the key with us so that their daughter can pick it up the next day.

Is the Dutch Community a strong community? We are not strong in numbers but there are a lot of Dutch here heading international companies. There are a lot of Dutch all over the country, not just in Moscow. I’ve seen some new faces coming recently so the community is here, it exists and it will continue to exist.

Benelux Countries’ Community In Russia you never get bored, something always happens, there are many things to do. It is a country which is developing, sometimes for the best, sometimes for the worst. I enjoy working here, promoting exports from Belgium and setting up contacts between Belgian and Russian businesspeople. Unfortunately in Russia there is strong interference from politics and government in business.

What are your favourite restaurants/cafes?

Andre De Rijck Economic attaché, Embassy of Belgium, Moscow How long have you been in Russia? I arrived in Moscow in November 1990, when Russia was still the Soviet Union. I witnessed two coup-d’états, one against Gorbachev in 1991 and the one against Yeltsin in ’93, complete with tanks in the streets and snipers on the roofs. The country was rapidly changing in a political and economic sense, turning into a democracy and an open market. Up until then, Russia had been a closed country with few connections to Europe.

What has changed over the years? In the beginning of the 1990’s there was a lot of chaos and confusion, later on the situation stabilized. Stability is quite important for the development of the economy and business.

What are the main differences between Russians and Belgians as far as business goes?

The business climate in Belgium is different from that in Russia. Therefore businessmen think and act in different ways. One example is planning: Russian businesspeople never plan long term. In Russia business culture and management skills are still young and not as developed as in Belgium or Europe.

I love Caucasian cuisine and there are many restaurants in Moscow of this kind. During the last 5-6 years more and more restaurants with nice Belgian beer have been opened in Moscow. Russians have started to appreciate our beers……..!

How can we, as individuals work towards improving understanding between both sides of the present situation? We build up longstanding relations with Russian business partners in many economic sectors. It is very important to continue and develop these relations even in difficult times. We should not let the crisis spoil them. Russian businesspeople can be excellent partners, and are very loyal to their Belgian counterparts. Russian businessmen think very highly of Belgian quality goods and they want to keep receiving them, in spite of European or Russian sanctions.

What are the best things you like about Russia? The worst?

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Jurgen Thoelen’s Gladiators’ Race How long have you been in Russia, why did you come here? I’ve been here for around 5 years. I came here with a multinational, Nokia-Siemens. I headed business development for them out of their regional headquarters in Russia. I left them after a couple of years and started working with my own company.

Do you like Russia? Yes, I quite like it, because of the combination of city life and the outdoors. The moment you go out of the city, it’s a different world.

Are you are an outdoor man? Yes. The company I had before was an outdoor adventure company, we used to do the usual things — rafting, all that stuff, in Russia. I spent four years before that in Dubai, where we did desert trips. This was all at the same time as working for Nokia Siemens there.

What are you doing now? I am the COO of a Belgian company Soulco, a IT System Integrator working mainly in Middle East and Africa. I do that during the week, and at the weekend I spend all my time on Gladiators’ race.

Benelux Countries’ Community Who is Gladiators race for? It’s for Russians.

Do you speak Russian? No, I am still learning. But my team does. Tell us what this Gladiators’ race is all about. The idea is that people like to have fun, they like to not just run, they like to crawl and climb over stuff. As soon as you get people in a place where they can do this, you see that they really love it. It is something that already exists abroad; I saw it in the US. I have many friends who participate in this event quite a lot in the US. When it came to Europe, the idea was always to start something like that in Russia. But it took a while before we really got going.

Specifically, how does Gladiators’ Race work? It combines running, which everyone can do, for 5, 10 kilometres or even longer distances, with military obstacles like walls, crawling under barbed wire, running though mud, all that. It is mostly for people who do sports already, who like the competition aspect, but we also have a lot of people who never do sports, and this is a lot of fun for them to take part in, because you are doing this outdoors, not in the gym.

What’s the biggest difference between Gladiators’ race in the US and in Russia? At the moment, the only main difference is the size. The main race centre there started in 2012 and it has been growing exponentially. It’s one of the fastest growing sports in the world. Somehow, Russia skipped all of this, I don’t know why, because in a lot of the other East European countries it is there, but it never really started in Russia. Participants in Russia are a bit younger than in the States, with an average age of about 27 years old, and quite into sports. Older people perhaps don’t realise that they can also participate. In the States, you have a much wider age range taking part. The fastest time

to complete the 5 kilometre race is 30 minutes, They might take 2 hours, but it doesn’t matter, they just need to reach the end, and that’s it.

Does that mean that there is an ageism thing attached to sports here? I’m not sure, I think when you go to a gym here, you see something else immediately. Most people take it very seriously, they are almost at athlete level, and many have a background in sports, you also have people who have no sporting background at all and who never got to a gym! Whereas in Europe and the US, you have many more people who go to the gym maybe once or twice a month. In my opinion, this doesn’t seem to happen so much in Russia. Maybe the reason is because gyms are expensive here.

Have you noticed a drop off in people attending your events since this crisis started? No, and for us it’s actually been quite a good thing because a lot of young people who used to go abroad to travel are not staying in Russia, because tickets for the flights got expensive. So we see a larger number of people who are interested in doing things in Russia itself.

What is your aim in the future? Our aim is to have one or two races every month, but it should be a Russia-wide phenomenon, so the goal is to hold a race in the 10 biggest cities in Russia and then hold a championship. We have Reebok as a sponsor, and they have agreed to sponsor sending the best athletes to the US, and actually Reebok is interested in creating a professional team. So we are holding all sorts of discussions about how to do that.

Do you like the women here? Yes of course, it’s dangerous to say, but we see that a very high percentage of the participants are women, although there are still more men than women, but that is normal for sports.

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Belgian Florence Gallez lived in Moscow for 8 years and worked mainly in the media. She left to do an MA at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), and discovered her true love – photography. She recently held an exhibition ‘Flow and Reflections’ at the Gallery at Mosfilm, and more exhibitions are on the horizon. When did you come to Russia, and what did you do as a journalist here? I lived in Moscow from May 1999 and I left in August 2008. I worked as a journalist and as a reporter for the Moscow Times. I wrote articles about business, culture and science. Then I became editor of the Business Review, which was a colour supplement of the paper. After that, I worked as the Moscow correspondent for the Washingtonbased BNA which stands for the Bureau of National Affairs on a freelance basis for two years. Then I did some production work for the CNN Moscow bureau. After that I decided to extend my skills and explore new territory, that’s when I did my masters degree in comparative media studies at MIT. That was when I took my very first class in photography and very soon I decided that instead of writing long articles and editing, I will try to tell the Russian – and other stories – through pictures. My editors often told me that my articles were too long. I kept thinking of the phrase: ‘a picture is worth 1000 words.’ There is a lot of truth in that. Ideally I would like to move into documentary photography because

that’s what I like the most. The best situation is to be independent because you can choose your own stories. I like to set things in a static framework, I hope that doesn’t sound too pretentious but I call this art photography. That’s why I prefer to do black-and-white because it’s more beautiful. A great thing to do would be to come to Russia, not just to Moscow. But when I was working 15 hours a day as an editor, I didn’t travel much although I did get to go to St Petersburg. I went on the TransSiberian once, but I didn’t have a lot of time so I was unable to spend time at the other end or stop at all the different places on the way to China. I’d love to show more of Russia to the West especially some of the positive things because they are so rarely seen in the western press. For example the Olympics was really amazing, and there are a lot of very beautiful things going on here that aren’t reported on.

You just held an exhibition here at the Gallery at Mosfilm. What was the exhibition about? It was called ‘Flow and Reflections’, ‘Flow’ referring to the first three letters of my name. The exhibition covered the countries

that mean something to me, namely Cuba, and more specifically Havana, where I did some photography with Peter Turnley, a famous American photojournalist. I did some more work with him in New York, a city I love, not least because I got the opportunity to photograph the dance community there. I took some dance classes there and love to dance. I really like the community there, and I’m going back there this summer to do some more photography. Then of course my home city Brussels, where I always go back to. There were also some photographs from Moscow taken in the late 90s in the exhibition.

How does Moscow seem like to you now? I came back here after six years in November of last year. It was quite a shock. I felt like a tourist, although I missed Russia in the same way that you miss your home town. I had to get used to the Russian ways again, but that didn’t take long. What was interesting was that at first, I saw Moscow from a foreigner’s point of view, and it seems to be doing really well, in comparison to many western cities. But I am not sure about the rest of the country.

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Johan Verbeeck How long have you lived in Russia and what brought you here? I have lived here for 13 years now. I first arrived in the USSR in 1986 as a student, and I have been visiting the country on a regular basis ever since. I am glad that I experienced life in the Soviet Union, which was a very different world. When the Berlin Wall fell for example, I was living in Poland, studying Polish at Warsaw University. After my studies, I hardly used my Slavic languages at all for over a decade. I worked 8 years for FedEx in their European headquarters in Brussels, and then for a couple of years in HR consultancy for the Swedish Mercuri Urval. In 2001 an American friend who has a courier company in St. Petersburg asked me to come over to Russia and help him out in Moscow. It was one of these ‘now or never’ moments in life. I remember I had just bought an apartment in Brussels and having lived in it for only 3 months, I booked a one way ticket to Russia. And I am still here.

Why so long? A Belgian friend of mine compared Russia with some kind of a vacuum that sucks you in, once you have been here for too long. You start working, you acquire business partners and associates, friends, you marry, you have kids and oops… at least 10 years have passed. Sometimes you get fed up with the place, but once you leave it for a couple of weeks, you start missing it. Without coming over here I would probably have stayed in a relatively

safe Belgian corporate environment for the rest of my life. Here I became immediately involved with very dynamic start-ups; with entrepreneurs and pioneers of new businesses. After working with my American friend I joined some expat friends selling, marketing and producing promotional items for a couple of years, which was lots of fun. I remember, for example, we produced many of the materials, which were for sale in the first Hard Rock Café shop here in Moscow.

What do you do here now? In 2008 I opened the Russian branch of ElaN Languages, a Belgian translation and training company. We provide translations for various major banks, business associations and oil companies. We also specialize in language training; so far only on the B-to-B market, but we are now going forward with tutoring individual customers as well. We are pioneering teaching expats Russian online. We are actively expanding our translation business to the B-to-C market, as soon we will open a translation desk for visa related paperwork for some embassies.

What are the most difficult and best things of living here? There is a certain ‘straightforwardness’ in everyday life in Russia that always attracted me. Winters are white and summers are hot, so to speak. I am very positive about the openness and dedication of

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Benelux Countries’ Community Russian friendships, although that is not necessarily an exclusive Russian trait. Russians are certainly fun, down-to-earth, extremely generous and loyal once you know them. Although we live in a heavily polluted city, nature is never far away in Russia. It just takes you an hour from Moscow to be in the middle of nowhere. Banyas and dachas are not very common in a densely populated country like Belgium. Before I came to Russia, I never picked mushrooms as they do here. Last year I saw some people picking them during a walk in a forest not far from my hometown in Belgium. When I came a little bit closer, I heard them speaking spoke Russian. There is always another side of the coin. This is a country of great culture, highly educated and well-read people. There is a lot of warmth, but also a lot of stubborn conservatism, misplaced nostalgia and arrogance. I like the fact that there is less superficial hypocrisy here, less political correctness, however, on the other hand you hear some creepy ‘us and them’ opinions that we in the West have forgotten a long time ago.

What is it like in Russia at the moment? We have been working with this country for the last 25 years, and now I sometimes have to explain to some ‘mister-know-it-all’ why we live and work here as if we are part of a big conspiracy against Russia, and that’s sad. I remember the Cold War in the eighties very well. Now, almost 30 years later we are at the receiving end of the same or an even higher level of manipulation, clichés, deliberate bigotry and childishness by politicians and the press. I am talking here about all sides of the confrontation. And it is we who pay the price, not them. I don’t have a clue what the future will bring. Nobody would have convinced me two years ago that we would witness another intra-slavic war, only 20 years after the previous one in Yugoslavia. This IS a massive, ugly historical fact, I am afraid. May common sense prevail!

What would you like to do next? Last fall I decided to move my family to Belgium, primarily for my son’s education. He is nine now, which is the ideal age to make the switch. Belgium has a good track record in education. He will speak four languages by the age of 18. My personal ambition is now to use the local knowledge and contacts I have built up over the last decade. While still managing the language business, I am building a portfolio of foreign companies I help to look for business on the Russian market. Especially in the SME sector there are ‘hidden champions’ which have a great product, but don’t have enough resources to explore all markets. So far I have construction technology, IT products for oil and gas and event management in the portfolio. These are not under sanctions yet!:)

Charity

10th Annual Charitable Bowling tournament in the aid of Taganka Children`s Fund, March 2015

Best players: Dmitriy – HSR team – 180 Sergey – Mercury team – 180

Sponsors: BiBaBo bowling club Moscow expat life – informational support Nestle Supra Donnie`s bar Buketoff flower salon

183,000 roubles were raised, with pleasure for the Taganka Childrens’ Fund by Moscow’s best bowlers at a memorable event at Bi-Ba-Bo Bowling at Smolenskaya.

№ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Team Moscow expat Life AECOM Mercury 1 Mercury 2 MIX 1 MIX 2 Admins JLL Cargill 1 Cargill 2 English Play School 1 English Play School 2 Donnie`s HSR Platinum FS “Turner International” English from Eglishmen

Score 373 362 525 557 256 404 486 524 361 276 275 316 490 424 465 416 459

Final

Winners

615 667

2 1

541 546

467 334 497

Charity

European Gymnasium

IB school in Moscow - What European Gymnasium offers for children of expats? First of all, our school offers two-year pre-university course with English as the teaching language - The International Baccalaureate Diploma Program. Its curriculum emphasizes critical thinking and provides 10-11th graders with the knowledge and skills necessary to succeed in higher education. After completion of the program students pass exams for the IB Diploma, which is recognized by hundred of universities around the world.

- What about younger children? In secondary school IB Middle Years Programme is integrated into the national curriculum. Gymnasium has linguistic classes in 5-9 grades with English as the main teaching language. At the same time all of our pupils until 9th grade take Russian language (or Russian as a foreign language) and Russian literature courses. This provides an amazing opportunity for our foreign students to gradually learn Russian.

- What if a child doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t speak English, but some other foreign language? Today we have kids from Vietnam, Poland, Turkey. Taking Russian as a foreign language course as well as daily conversations and playtime activities with other children help to overcome the language barrier. The younger the student the faster he or she will start to speak a second language.

www.eurogym.ru, Sokolnichesky val, 28

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Education

The International School of Moscow Tel: +7 (499) 922 44 00 www.internationalschool.ru

Raymond Finch, ISM Rosinka Head Teacher What makes ISM a special school? ISM is distinguished by the exceptional level of care and professionalism that’s invested in every detail of teaching, learning and school organisation. This is palpable when you enter the school at either site, Rosinka or Krylatskoe. We’re extremely proud of our school’s academic performance but arguably even more so of the curriculum enrichment that we offer in the form of our concerts, plays, instrument tuition, outdoor learning, art and craft, educational visits and sports coaching.

What are the advantages of an international school? First is the somewhat obvious benefit of nearseamless continuity in your child’s education almost anywhere in the world. ISM’s an excellent choice for parents who are eager for their children to gain access to the world’s foremost private schools and universities, the overwhelming majority of which are English speaking. International schools also generally offer very strong Modern Language

programmes, offering children even of families who speak a single mother tongue at home to grow up bilingual. Educational research strongly suggests that this is hugely beneficial in terms of the development of listening and problem solving skills, social skills and general neural development. International schools in Moscow can harness the rich cultural, historical and sporting heritage of one of the world’s most awe-inspiring cities to enhance the educational experience that they provide.

What do you think of Moscow/Russia/ Russians? I find it quite easy to communicate with Russian people and I feel that I have an above average understanding (for a foreigner) of their world view as well and the things that are important to them. While the fact that I was raised during the ‘Cold War’ will always mean that Moscow and Russia hold a certain excitement and fascination, I generally feel more at home here than in any part of the UK.

Paul Keach, Head of Secondary school, ISM Krylatskoe campus What is so special about ISM? Visitors, parents, inspectors and new students all agree that the reception that they receive upon entering our school is both unique and extremely welcoming. I am very proud of this and hope that, however big our school grows in the future, we will always remain a friendly, welcoming environment where people want to come to study, work and become members of the very special ISM Community.

What are the characteristics of teaching in Russia?

of our school in 2013, stated that we were ‘excellent’ in all areas.

The expectations of students and parents are very high here. As Russia is relatively close to the United Kingdom, it is also very easy for parents to send their children to a boarding school in Britain. For these reasons, it is imperative that ISM is at the cutting edge of British education and provides an exceptional level of education for our students. The report from the Independent Schools’ Inspectorate, completed following their inspection

What are the advantages of an international school? Students are privileged to be in classes with students from over fifty different nationalities. This promotes an environment where students develop a healthy interest in the diverse cultures and histories of many countries. At ISM, I believe that we are developing students with a passion to be ambassadors in the ‘Global Village’ that

we now live in where people from all nationalities will communicate better and build a stronger, safer planet for future generations to enjoy.

What do you think of Moscow / Russia / Russians? Moscow, Russia and Russians have broken all the pre-conceived stereotypes that I had of them before I came to Moscow three years ago. I have discovered one of the most diverse, changing, culturally gifted cities on Earth.

Education Salina Vigneault (parent): “As expats, our primary concern has always been the quality of education for our children. With ISM we have been positively overwhelmed with the quality of the schooling, teaching staff, environment and security of the children” “Upon moving to Moscow, our family has fallen in love with ISM (Rosinka). The children love going to school, and their development has been excellent”

Hana Skladalova (parent): “ISM brings environment which leads children to be very creative. There is a great balance between clear demands on children but in the same moment keeping still pleasant atmosphere. Due to this we see very positive trend in improving of knowledge of our children.”

Sandra Kropp (parent): “Our daughter Sarah joined the all new ISM year1 in Rosinka. She enjoys very much going to school as her teachers pay attention to her and encourage through positive feedback. Great to see her development especially gaining confidence in English and Russian language.”

2P pupil

“I enjoy coming to school at ISM Rosinka because our school is so fun to go to because we learn new things and we do lots of fun work. We do fun Mathematics.”

Darjana (pupil), 3P

7D pupil My first thought of when it comes to the International school named ISM is quality. This is a high quality school including lots of amazing standard education. The school itself is really appealing to both your eyes and to your brain since here in ISM I have had an outstanding year, which is unfortunately passing way to quickly. I made a lot of great friends and I got to know everybody’s personality’s and in general It was a pleasure to spend my year in the Year 7D classroom thanks to our amazing teachers.

I like coming to school because every day I learn something new. ISM is great because we do lots of different and fun things and because I have lots of friends.

3P pupil “I like coming to school because I really want to learn things. At school we do fun stuff and learn new things.”

Babette Oostveen (pupil), 5B

Alice Rybring (pupil) 6S The best thing about ISM Rosinka is probably the nutritious lunches and after school activities. The after school activities, such as Folk dancing, yoga and cooking, are all amazing. The lunches keep students and teachers healthy.

I love ISM Rosinka because teacher are always able to help you and all the lessons are so interesting. I’m sure that when I grow up, I won’t forget them. Going to the science lab to do the experiments can be both very educational and entertaining. My family and I made the right decision going to this school. We may be a new school here, but we will be famous in the future!

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2M pupil

“I enjoy coming to school because on Friday we can have Bear Mike coming to one of our homes.”

Technology ack

Bria

orm McC

he smartphone has become the all-purpose tool of the 21st century. It wakes, entertains, improves productivity, navigates and finally sings you to sleep. It can also greatly simplify your life in Moscow. Here’s how:

Getting Around Moscow

Apt Apps for Surviving Moscow By Car or Walking – The Yandex Navigator App is also a must install. Its maps are detailed; and its search function will find that nearest ATM, bar, restaurant or even banya. My only complaint is its assumption that I will be driving to the next destination, so its use as a navigator is limited. Google’s Maps App is useful for comparison purposes, so I have both though mainly use Yandex. Yandex Navigator App - And, IOS, E, R, @ Google Maps - And, IOS, E, R, @

By Metro – The Yandex Metro App is a life saver. It contains a detailed layout of the Moscow Metro, search by station, and estimates your journey and arrival time. It automatically updates as new stations are completed. Yandex Metro - IOS, And, R, E

What are your must have Apt Apps for Moscow? Please write to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru We will update our review of apps from time to time. Thanks Brian for a great article. Ed.

By Autobus, Minibus ( Маршрутные такси) – The Yandex Transport App covers trams, buses and private minivans. These transportation alternates complement and provide a nice change to the metro and driving. Yandex is working on an enhancement which should provide real time updates on that late tram, though that feature wasn’t working when this article was written. Yandex Transport App - And, IOS, R, @

Technology By Taxi – Like many places in the world, Moscow is undergoing a ‘taxi revolution’, where a number of companies and their apps are engaged in hand to hand combat for your business. A continual debate among expats is whether to use Uber, Yandex taxi, or another service. Unfortunately, most of these services are only available in Moscow or St. Petersburg. I’m an ‘Uber Man’ at this moment, but that could change tomorrow. Uber App - And, IOS, @, R, E Yandex Taxi App - And, IOS, @, R, E

Coping with the Local Lingo My Russian language skills seem to vary from day to day, so I always need a backup. On the translation side, I rely on Google’s Translate App and Sloved’s Deluxe English to Russian talking dictionary. Google’s app allows for the copying and pasting of any text or typing of word or phrase. The Google Translate App’s drawback is that it requires Internet connectivity, which is where Sloved’s dictionary shines. It has a huge dictionary which is available offline. It also has the capability to tag words for later review. Both Apps provide spoken translation to assist in those difficult Russian pronunciations. English - Russian Slovoed Deluxe talking dictionary - IOS, And, R, E, $ Google translate App - IOS, And, R, E, @

Guide to App attributes IOS - Supports Apple’s IOS OS And - Supports Android OS E - App is available in English

R - App is an available in Russian @ - App functionality requires online connectivity $ - App’s major functionality needs to be purchased

Learning the Local Lingo The various app stores are filled with apps for Russian language instruction, and everyone has their own favourites and learning methods. I have the found the following Russian language teaching Apps to be helpful. Everyone hates conjugating verbs, but it is a necessity, and LearnBots is a simple and straightforward method for learning them. Russian grammar requires lots of work, and the simple Russia Test App has three levels of grammar tests. In addition it has its own flashcards and a number of vocabulary lists complied by other users. It also nags when you haven’t taken a test in a few days. Lastly, I enjoy Pivot: Quotes of the Greatest, which is a quirky app for Russian speakers learning English. It features famous English language quotes with an appropriate Russian translation. My Russian friends love to quote Russian proverbs to me, and I like to surprise them by quoting a famous English proverb back to them in Russian. The next time a Russian friend says, “Доверяй, но проверяй.” You can answer, “Да, Дурак легко расстается с деньгами.” LearnBots App- IOS, And, R, E, $ Russia Test App - IOS, And, R, E Pivot: Quotes of the Greatest - IOS

Out and About Moscow

Everyone has their personal favourite apps to assist them in various aspects of Moscow social life and I am no different. My oldest son loves going to the movies, and I have a hard time escaping from watching the latest kid’s movies; especially when their ads are everywhere. Therefore, Yandex’s Кинофиша movie finder is a lifesaver. I have had so many bad restaurant experiences in Moscow that I use Tripadvisors’ Offline City Guides for Moscow whenever I am in an unknown part of town. Sure it is mostly for tourists, but western tourists are generally accurate when it comes to service and food. Lastly, as a runner I have become more conscious about Moscow’s air quality and always review the Moscow’s air pollution rating before a run on AICN’s Asia Air Quality App. Yandex’s Кинофиша - And, R, @ Tripadvisors Offline City Guides for Moscow - And, IOS, E AICN’s Asia Air Quality App - And, E, @

Moscow Personalities If you think you are a long way from home and can’t get any decent mozzarella cheese, you are reading the right article. Italian Pierangelo Carbonara has started producing and making delicious mozzarella cheese here. He brought some round to our place to try, and we have been talking about it ever since. This is what he told us. How did you end up here? I have been here for five years now, I met my Russian wife in Greece, and love brought me to Russia. I am from the F&B business and have worked in Moscow, actually I’m still working for an Italian restaurant near Metro Frunzenskaya.

How do you make your cheese here?

rriso

Ha John

Genuine Puglia Mozzarella made in Moscow

We are three friends, Nikolai who is Russian, and me and my Italian friend Maurizio who comes from the same southern Italian town in Puglia as me. When the embargo started and they stopped importing all the natural products form Italy, we realised that this is our chance, this is our work. We decided to make some Puglia cheese here in Russia. Why import, when we can make this in Russia. Now we have a factory, Maurizio looks after the production, we choose the best milk from South Russia, transport it up to Tver Oblast where we have a factory in Torzhok and we have started to produce our own cheese. We have only started, so we are only making about one ton of cheese a week, we have a target of 10-15 tons a week.

How do you distribute the cheese? We have an office here in Moscow and a vehicle, so we distribute everything within a week.

Who are your customers? Pierangelo is focusing on large scale F&B clients, but you might be able to persuade him to bring some mozzarella round to you – it’s worth it – if you ring him on: +7 916 515 1329

Everybody who understands what it means to eat good mozzarella cheese.

Travel

Hotel Rodniki

he Hotel Rodniki is a gem. A luxury boutique hotel comprising of just 6 modern luxury cottages, the reception building and the restaurant/bar located in a massive parkland on 7 hectares. Moscow architects Atrium Bureau created the project design ensuring an amazing adaptation to suit the unspoilt rural landscape. There is so much space between the cottages and they are so designed that you hardly see another person. The interior design by highly talented Russian interior designers, Mikhail & Dmitry Ganevich, is contemporary, spacious and welcoming. Clever use of natural

stone and wood has created a wonderful blend of traditional and new. The smallest ‘rooms’ are the one-bedroom Deluxe suites with a whopping 155sq meters of space. The main room is vast, featuring large windows to the forest, an open fireplace with stone chimney, dining table and lounge area. There is a tea/ coffee kitchen with coffee machine, sink and large well stocked mini bar. The beautiful wood shingle wall reveals a secret of a hidden high tech TV that emerges at the touch of a button. All window blinds are also fully automated. The apartments each have warp around balconies enabling one to lie in the sun chairs and enjoy the absolute peace of the forest

The sumptuous bedroom is large and bright, yet cosy with panoramic windows, large walk in closet and a beautifully appointed bathroom. So quite normal? No! Attention to even the smallest detail is what makes the Hotel Rodniki so special. All materials are of the highest standard, 600 weave Egyptian cotton sheets, soft voluminous towels, Chopard bathroom amenities have been carefully selected to provide full support to a truly luxury product. The hotel is located approx. 80 kms from Moscow. If you don’t travel on a Friday evening the journey time is around two hours. The hotel cottages are located

Travel

Breakfast can be taken in the restaurant or on the lovely terrace, but a short call to room service brings all that you require to the comfort of the table in your suite. A wonderful start to the day with fresh products on your balcony looking at the woodland. The Hotel Rodniki is so perfect if you need to get out of the stress of Moscow for a weekend. There is nothing to do other than relax, eat and drink! Actually not quite true as there is a small spa, small fitness room and a charming sauna cottage that features a Japanese bath outside and Finnish sauna. You can also order your massage in this cottage.

Each of the 6 cottages comprises of a one-bedroom suite and a 2-bed duplex. The two units can be combined by renting the entire villa making a total of 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms and sofa beds for an additional 4 people. Ideal for large families, birthday celebrations and even corporate retreats. Ideally located within easy each of the Golden Ring, the Hotel Rodniki is not cheap but you really receive the comfort and quality that should be associated with a true luxury hotel. Hotel Rodniki +7 495 212 1232 info@rodniki-hotel.ru www.rodniki-hotel.ru

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in a large forested plot ensuring privacy and extreme quiet. There is a very comfortable restaurant and bar that ideally suits this countryside setting with a large terrace for al fresco dining. Service is friendly and efficient and there is an English menu. The food provides a relaxed and informal dining experience with well prepared favourites made from fresh, local ingredients. The dining experience is complemented by an extensive wine list with many excellent wines at most reasonable prices. In Summer there is an extensive grill menu and guests can even cook themselves if they prefer.

Central Asia

his issue we start a series of special regional reports with Central Asia. This region is made up of 5 sovereign states, the five ‘Stans,’ which gained independence during the dying days of the Soviet Union in 1991. With all the turmoil that Russia has been consistently experiencing, the area was quietly forgotten about for most of the 1990s but is now heading back into the spotlight for several reasons: It has becomes of strategic importance to the US which wishes to increase American influence in the region. China is already capitalising on its investments there and the EU wishes to diversify its carbon based energy supplies. With recent ISIS insurgencies, which we are told are a real threat, the region could soon burst into the news as a possible new area for the radicalisation of Muslim populations. It could also become a new proxy zone of conflict between great powers which are backing the 5 states. (editor) Meanwhile, an increasing number of expats are working in Central Asia. Some have become expats twice over, having worked in Russia previously. Ross Hunter, introduces this section with facts and figures page 61. John Harrison delves into some of the underlying political, economic and military narratives of today’s Central Asia, and suggests that EU should change its policy in the region, pps. 61-64.

The inimitable Luc Jones gives us some tips about working in Kazakhstan, as does Nigel Cox, on pages 65-71. Ross Hunter also supplies us with a review of a very good book: ‘In Search of Kazakhstan – The Land That Disappeared’ by Christopher Robbins, which is essential reading for anybody going to work or travel in Central Asia.

Central Asia

The ‘Stans’ of Central Asia A Beginner’s Introduction Compiled by Ross Hunter, sometime Geography teacher, Baku

he world’s countries furthest from the sea are usually furthest from our consciousness, too. Here is an oversimplified introduction to the five ‘Stans’ of central Asia. 1. Where? Along with neighbours Afghanistan and Mongolia, these are the countries furthest from the sea, by many miles. All are landlocked; Uzbekistan shares the unique distinction, with Lichtenstein, of being ‘double landlocked’ – surround entirely by countries which themselves have no seacoast. Being landlocked is one of the most accurate predictors of a country being economically poor. T 2. What in common? Some simple overgeneralisations cover all five, and large parts of their immediate neighbours, too. Dry, mountainous, low population density, low incomes except where oil and gas money has arrived recently, agriculture mostly traditional and extensive (herding), apart from cotton irrigated at the cost of the Aral Sea. All are ethnically mixed, with a predominance of the Turkic peoples (except Tajikistan) who stretch from Siberia and western china right across to Istanbul. Islam is the majority religion, but with many other religions, and a general tolerance of diversity (with some poor exceptions). All have been invaded over the centuries from all directions: this is a story far too complex for this little piece – look it up, and you will find a terrifying list of names, and complexity, including Ghenghis, Attila, Golden and other Hordes, Huns, Tamburlaine and more. The horse was domesticated around here, and the people of the Steppes live on horseback: migration is easy and often necessary. All were conquered by Russia in the late C19th; and all suffered under Stalin. All left the crumbling USSR in 1991; and all have found

The Caspian Sea

Russia Kazakhstan Aral Sea

Uzbekistan Turkmenistan Iran Kazakhstan

Area 2,725 ‘000 km2 OOOOOOOOOOO (O = UK) Size Western Europe Population 18m (* = 3m) ****** Density /km2 6 (UK = 255) Capital* *Astana & main Almaty cities GNP $’000 at ppp 24 (Russia = 14) Economy

Oil, gas

Mongolia Kyrgyzstan

Tajikistan Afghanistan

China

Turkmenistan

Uzbekistan

Kyrgyzstan

Tajikistan

490 OO

450 OO

200 O

143 o

England 8m ***

Nepal, Greece 6m **

Spain, California 5m 30m ** ********** 10

*Ashgabat

*Tashkent Samarkand

Bishkek

Dushanbe

2.5

Oil, gas, cotton

the transition to modern economies and governance to be rocky paths, with limited democracy. Most have had to export many of their people, to seek work in Moscow and everywhere else, from Beijing to Baku and beyond. Mountainous Tajikistan fits the general picture less well than the others; but what is true here also applies in all directions, including across the Caspian. 3. A different postcard from each country. Kazakhstan – The size of western Europe with the population of Benelux: the Steppe, deserts and mountains are very, very large and even emptier. A country working hard to transform itself, and escape from the disasters of Soviet times, which left displaced populations, gulags, atomic waste, and destroyed the Aral Sea. The word ‘Kazakh’ means free spirit, and implies travelling on horseback: a complex history and etymology seems to link it to ‘Cossack’. Astana is on the same latitude as London, but five time zones East. Turkmenistan – Historically on The Silk Road, now on a gas and oil field. 80% of the country is desert, with mountains to 10,000m

Cotton, gold, uranium, gas

Money from Gold, wool, wheat workers abroad

in the SW and SE corners. A strong, centralised and personally led government since Soviet times. Uzbekistan – The central country, the only one to border all the other four, plus Afghanistan. Extreme continental climate, so expect above +40oC in summer and below -20o in winter. Home to huge forced movements of population, and today still an exporter of workers. With Kazakhstan, home to some of the world’s great archaeological sites. Kyrgyzstan – created by the 40 clans, each shown by a ray on the flag, along with the roof of a Yurt, nomadic tent. The world’s country furthest from the sea, and home to the second largest mountain lake (after Titicaca). Some of the most beautiful scenery, too. Tajikistan – The most remote and isolated country, the most mountainous, and hardest to summarise. Fully half of national income is from remittances from workers abroad. The flag and the language are close to Persian/Iran. The few who have visited say it is the greatest place to visit. Now go and take your own pictures; write your own stories and postcards.

Central Asia John

ison

Harr

The EU in Central Asia For too long, Central Asia has been defined in terms of what others sought to gain there, and to a certain degree that is still the case. Daniel Burghart , American expert on Central Asia, 2009

Central Asia watchers talk about the ‘New Great Game’, referring to a new version of the ‘Great Game’ when Russia and Great Britain fought each other for influence in Central Asia. Now the ‘New Great Game’ is between China, Russia and the US. However this time round, the leaders of Central Asian states are no longer passive pawns but energy-rich sovereign states able to play one great power off against another. The EU is strangely absent from such discussions, so one presumes that the EU is not a global power. In economic terms the EU most definitely is, but its influence is comparatively small. What is the EU doing wrong?

argely absent from Central Asia in the 1990s, the EU as an institution started to gain visibility in the region in 2002. The EU employs a normative approach in Central Asia, implemented through ‘Partnership and Cooperation Agreements’ (PCAs). Policies are built upon the pillars of political dialogue, trade and economic relations. These are enshrined in noble causes: common values of respect for human rights,

democracy and the rule of law, eradicating poverty. The EU’s strategy also aims to seek closer regional cooperation both within Central Asia and integration of Central Asia with the EU, particularly in energy, transport, higher education and environmental sectors. This is a grand plan, however we are now into the second decade of the EU’s presence in Central Asia and we have yet to see tangible positive results.

The EU has applied, with a few minor adaptations, the same normative approach as it applied successfully in Eastern Europe; a process which culminated in 8 Eastern European countries joining the EU by 2007. However on cultural and political levels, Central Asia is not Europe, and wishful thinking aside, it is extremely unlikely that any of the Central Asian states will enter the EU in the foreseeable future.

History 101 of Central Asia Even a cursory look at Central Asia’s history tells us that for the past 150 years the region was dominated by Russia; by the Tsars and then by the commissars. By the end of the 19th century, independent tribal confederacies and emirates had become absorbed into the tsarist empire. Waves of forced and voluntary immigration have given the region a Russian diaspora of over 10 million, out of a population of 61 million in 2010. When the five Central Asian Soviet Republics gained independence in 1991, none inherited the social and political institutions necessary to create western style democracies, nor even the desire to establish them, in fact they were the most conservative of the Soviet Republics and only reluctantly accepted the Soviet Union’s demise.

The Soviets appear to have done a good job in preventing unification of the peoples in all of the then five ‘Soviet Socialist Republics’, by creating borders between the Republics that did not always tally with ethnic differences. For example, 13% of the population of Kyrgyzstan is Uzbek, which is serious in that most local allegiances are in fact based on clans, which have their own politics and respect their own borders. The new ‘born sovereign’ states viewed power-sharing arrangements as potential threats to their leadership structures, which are all authoritarian by western European standards. Western leaders mistakenly presumed that Central Asian leaders, would voluntarily canter into the coral of western democratic states, elect the next generations of leaders

and happily face the political hazards of economic transformation. A common inherited military and hydrocarbon energy infrastructure has made it difficult, if not impossible for states to break away from strategic dependence on Russia. The only real question is what form such dependency should take: multilateral through the SCO (Shanghai Cooperation Agreement) and EEU (Eurasian Economic Union) or bilateral on a state-by-state basis. Despite all of its anti-terrorist policies, it is unlikely that the US and/or NATO could or would want to take on the security of the whole of the region, and this task appears to have assumed by the CSTO (Collective Security Treaty Organisation), which was created out of a previous Russian-dominated ‘CIS’ arrangement, and three of the five

Central Asia states have joined (Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan). Russia and China are the largest investors in the region, with China taking the lead in recent years. A 1,833 kilometre pipeline from Turkmenistan through Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan to Xinjiang Province in China took only two years to build and became operational in 2009 at an initial cost of $7.3 billion. China has arrived in a big way. Nevertheless, Russian influence is still vast, the other 97% of oil and gas pipelines still head from south to north – into Russia. Most of the needed new east-west pipelines such as the Nabucco pipeline from Baku through the South Caucuses all the way to Austria, and the Turkmenistan to India (TAPI) pipeline have stalled

because of lack of finance and political instability of the countries which the pipelines are supposed to run through. The US is contemplating increasing its presence to compensate for a drawdown of ISAF (International Security Assistance Forces) forces in Afghanistan. Sorting out allegiances and strategies is very complex. The two countries with the most Russophile elite; Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, are also the most European orientated, whilst the three countries that have fewer cultural linkages with Russia – Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan – seem to be more distant from Europe. This all bodes badly for the EU’s regional approach to the resolution of urgent cross-border problems, including terrorism, international

crime and resolving environmental disasters. Central Asian leaders have been frequently criticised of exaggerating religious and ethnic tensions to secure foreign aid and military support, whilst shoring up their own regimes. Furthermore, they have been accused of playing off one foreign ‘partner’ against another to secure financial aid and infrastructure investment. Be that as it may, the EU in particular is keen to resolve security issues in Central Asia, especially the narcotics trafficking business. It has every reason to do so, as according to UN’ drug control experts, about half of the heroin consumed in Western Europe (about 60 tons) is smuggled through Central Asia from Afghanistan and Pakistan, and on to Western Europe.

Trade figures China-Central Asian trade topped $46 billion in 2010 Russian-Central Asian trade reached almost $40 billion in 2013 EU-Central Asian trade reached €27.3 billion in 2008

Questions. 1. Is the EU’s normative approach effective? From a local point of view, the EU spending an estimated €750m on good governance reform programmes is seen by many as peripheral and even hypocritical, because the EU simultaneously engages in major energy projects with states that are viewed both by human rights activists and NGOs in the region as being corrupt and repressive. 2. Should the EU cooperate with existing security and economic alliances in the region, even though they may be driven by different ideological goals? 3. Does the EU’s continuing strategic drive towards exploitation of fossil fuels in the area makes economic, and political sense? Does it in fact undermine efforts to encourage good governance?

Why do the EU’s current policies need to be adjusted? Normative Policies – not relevant. The EU has adopted a normative regional policy, even as China and Russia are investing relatively vast sums of money without attaching any strings to their investments. From a local point of view, It is not clear what the EU as an institution wants, in contrast to Russia, China and to a certain extent the US, which are seen as having clear energy and security interests backed up by cash. The EU wishes to help Central Asian states tackle human security

problems, however this necessitates placing the rights of individual citizens above those of governments. Problems can only be solved at a regional level yet there is as yet little regional consciousness in Central Asia. Western observers witness with horror how human rights’ NGOs are being closed down, and European agencies set up to alleviate such problems are being tolerated rather than accepted. Central Asian states prioritise threats to their own existence such as terrorism (in the early 1990s) – rather then human security problems such as the environment, which is not seen as a threat to the continuation of

regimes, even though ordinary people suffer through a serious lack of water, food, electricity, winter heating and pollution. The desiccation of the Aral Sea for example is one of the 20th century’s major ecological disasters, and has led to some of the highest cancer rates in the world amongst the 3-4 million people living on its previous shores. We know that drug money is used to support separatist and radical religious terrorist movements, and there are unconfirmed reports of such resources finding their way into officials’ pockets. Drug cartels have no wish to see Central Asian states

Central Asia In May 2000, the Tajik ambassador to Kazakhstan was implicated in a sensational drug smuggling scandal when 62 kg of heroin was found concealed in a secret compartment of the ambassador’s car . stabilise and become transparent for the simple but devastating reason that transparency equals less opportunity to bribe government officials. The question is, should the EU be engaging in Central Asia at all on a normative basis if their policies are having no effect, or even making the situation worse by affording credibility to certain authoritarian regimes? Cooperation with other trade and military blocks As an arbiter of western aid and considerable economic opportunity, the EU would be in a much stronger position to influence the internal politics of Central Asian states as an inside player. The Chinese also need regional cooperation to ward off religious extremism spreading into their Xinjiang province, and to prevent drug trafficking which also affects China. The Chinese also wish to stabilise a region that is now a new major market and vast source of hydrocarbons. No diversification from Fossil Fuels No one can see a fossil fuel free Europe within his or her lifetime, but a reduced dependence on hydrocarbons is now very likely. In Central Asia, the EU has not made encouraging the development of alternative energy sources a priority, although the region is richly endowed with such resources. This policy is out of date. Building and securing pipelines across unstable states, entails high transit risks, and long pay back times. Alternatives such as gas swaps are now available. For example, if Turkmen gas is to reach European markets, it is more likely to do so through swap arrangements via Iran and Turkey than through crossCaspian and Nabucco pipelines. Consumers in the EU also face being penalised as there are very high ‘switching costs’ if supplies are disrupted. In Central Asia, playing the energy game means confronting Gazprom’s monopsonist pricing

system. Many see western fascination with fossil fuels as holding back the diversification of Central Asian economies, because payment of ‘rents’ strengthen current practice and provides international credibility to authoritarian governments. Energy is about security, but whose security?, clearly not the people’s! Tajikistan, for example, is only able to cover 31% of its food consumption needs, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan around 50%. Central Asia is one of the only regions of world where water shortages have led to conflict. Meanwhile, the population of Central Asia has increased from 61.5 million in 2010 to 66 million in 2014, and continues to grow fast. These problems will clearly not be solved by oil and gas production and distribution. The EU’s energy policy in Central Asia has to change. The areas, in which the EU is seen as being able to make a difference – because they are not within the interest spheres of Russia and China, are water management, rural development and migration management, as well as development of renewable energy. Concentrating on these areas may, perhaps controversially, do more to encourage good governance than current EU policies and may enable the Central Asian states to edge away from political and economic dependency of regional powers, if they so wish.

The EU should keep a central office in Central Asia, and its ‘Special Representative (EUSR)’, to continue to enhance its lack of visibility in the region. The EU Central office in Central Asia should continue to encourage the highly successful overseas education programmes, and should finance more cultural exchanges. I believe intercultural understanding and respect to be the key for progress in Central Asia as elsewhere in the world.

What should the EU Do?

Stop backing fossil fuels The EU should disassociate itself from sponsorship of new pipeline construction from CA to Europe, and should encourage states to develop realistic alternatives to fossil fuel. Private companies should continue fossil fuel programmes, indeed they cannot be stopped, but the EU should stop Central Asian operations of oil and gas companies with their headquarters in the EU benefiting from governmental tax benefits, or any other of Fossil Fuel Subsidies.

Stop telling people what to do. Normative good governance policies should remain in place, but only be implemented selectively, with projects that the EU is actually involved with, not as a blanket policy. The EU should do more to promote bilateral trade. In all dealings within Central Asia, the EU should work with the smallest units of government, or directly with local communities, to mitigate corruption.

Cooperate with regional powers Wherever possible, the EU (and the European American Enterprise Council) should start to cooperate with existing regional structures, in particular with the EEU and SCO on a wide range of issues including drug trafficking, international crime and solving regional environmental problems. NATO should keep a more open mind about working with CSTO and the SCO on counter-terrorism. Any cooperation should be clearly carried put on a cautious, reciprocal basis, and the focus should be on ‘human security’ issues. Central Asia could be transformed into an example of regional cooperation, for the benefit of the people of Central Asian states themselves. The real danger is that the opposite may happen (some say it already is); where the region is transformed into another arena where global powers resolve their differences.

Central Asia

Book review: ‘In Search of Kazakhstan – The Land That Disappeared’ by Christopher Robbins, 2006. Profile Books, London. Illus. Johnnie Hannah. r unte Ross

o most people brought up on a small island, never more than 100km from the sea, in a land made by maritime trade, the great continental interiors are truly ‘terras incognita’, and the endless plains disorienting. I have managed a complete career in a geography classroom without honestly knowing one ‘Stan’ from another, or meeting the phrase ‘double landlocked’. Christopher Robbins leads us gently and beguilingly into his excellent biography of Kazakhstan with a confession of bemused ignorance. An accident of airline seating, a chance encounter with an unlikely groom-to-be, and a core motif: apples are from Kazakhstan. His bemusement becomes amusement and his curiosity is sparked. ‘Apples are from Kazakhstan’. Really? Most of us would shrug our shoulders and leave it at that. Not the professional journalist. Bit by bit, as these things happen, he learns more about this vast steppe, the size of Western Europe. Three years later, via a snooker game in London, came the first of several visits and

explorations, from the mountains, via the Aral Sea, across the deserts, to grimy soviet hotels and shiny new capital cities, and several audiences with the president himself. At the beginning of ‘Cannery Row’, John Steinbeck tells us of a species of river worm so delicate that it cannot be picked up, and the only way to gather one is to let it drift on to a flat blade: Steinbeck’s and Robbins’ stories are allowed to walk onto the pages themselves. Mr Robbins tells his tale quietly but with great factual detail, hidden in a friendly narrative. Impassioned, angry chapters are interleaved with personal tales. He loves setting up or observing quirky contrasts: old soviets with young Turks; locals and Russians; winners and the left behind; dreamers, realists and cynics. It is a serious book, with a lot to say, but it reads as easily as a light guide book. By the end of the book, as well as being back to apples, we have explored the high Altay mountains, seen the wreckage of Soviet nuclear testing, been snowbound with eccentric (?mad) C.19th explorers, hunted with Trotsky in exile, and gazed across the map of the President’s

dreams for his country’s future. We have also listened to a Beatles tribute band in a basement, and wolves on the frozen steppe. Mr Robbins reserves his greatest anger not even for the gulag, but for the wanton destruction of the nomads’ sustainable, workable way of life and of the Aral Sea, a catastrophe of unthinkable dimensions. The two disasters are linked by their causes: doctrinaire thinking and not listening to locals. Christopher Robbins listens to locals, and gives them a voice, which speaks to us, clearly, lovingly and hopefully. You will enjoy it, and learn along the way.

Central Asia

Kazakhstan – the New Place to do Business! Luc Jones

hen multinational companies have looked to expand their operations from Russia further afield in the CIS, the traditional route has been Ukraine. After all it is the largest country wholly in Europe with a population of almost 50 million, and Kiev is a mere hour &

twenty minutes’ flight from Moscow. What’s more, Kiev is a beautiful city (well, the centre, at least) and the culture isn’t vastly different from Russia. Westerners have been able to travel there visa-free for a decade, and the girls are pretty cute too! Yet there is the famous Russian expression, that ‘dyengi lyubat tishinu’ (money likes calm) which

given current events have sent businessmen in a different direction in search of pastures new to expand their operations – the logical choice for many now being Kazakhstan. Typically anywhere ending in ‘Stan’ sends shivers down the backs of executives back in corporate HQ, who instinctively think of war zones and potential ransom payments. Yet

Central Asia Kazakhstan is not only peaceful & stable, but increasingly prosperous and offers ripe rewards for those heading to what is the world’s 9th biggest country and a natural resources heaven! Firstly however, please get any thoughts of Borat out of your head before we even begin (incidentally, the movie was in fact filmed in eastern Romania, in case you were wondering). Whereas my first visit to Russia was back in February 1991, it wasn’t until March 2004 that I popped my Central Asian cherry and boarded the overnight flight to Kazakhstan’s largest city, Almaty. First impressions were that we were still very much in the Former Soviet Union, but with a distinctly Asian flavour as we drove from the airport into the city centre in the early morning mist which descends from the surrounding mountains. Unlike in the other ‘Stans’ where the bulk of the Russian population fled in the 1990s, most in Kazakhstan remained and Almaty is a particularly cosmopolitan place with Russian the favoured language – in fact Kazakhstan as a whole boasts around 130 nationalities, yet only the ethnic Kazakhs speak any Kazakh and the more educated still generally feel more comfortable using Russian. Unlike Russia, where you essentially have Moscow, followed by everything else tagging along behind, Kazakhstan is more spread out – both physically and literally. Almaty is by far Kazakhstan’s biggest city, with a population of 1.5 million and was the capital until 1997, when it was moved north to Astana. Nevertheless, apart from the lack of embassies and government buildings, Almaty remains very much a business hub due chiefly to its size and legacy. Why the change? Theories abound that Almaty is a little too close to the Chinese border for comfort, or that northern Kazakhstan is over-populated by ethnic Russians, although it’s unlikely to be a conspiracy; south-west Kazakhstan is prone to earthquakes – Almaty was almost entirely destroyed in 1887, and until

recently the city had few high-rise buildings so common in Soviet-built cities – and since it is partly encircled by the Alatau mountain range, there is little scope for expansion. It’s also a bloody long way from anywhere, although it’s likely to be your first port of call when making initial forage into Kazakhstan. Curiously Almaty doesn’t have what could be described as a single, main street running through the centre, such as Moscow, Tverskaya or Kiev’s Khreshchatik; it’s simply a criss-cross of roads (admittedly some larger than others), and confusingly the city slopes downwards to the north – hint, the mountains behind you are in the south – on the other side is Kyrgyzstan and lake Issyk-Kul, if you fancy a hike of several days! There also a knack to getting around town; the majority of Almaty streets have been changed since independence, with names of Kazakh warrior heroes taking preference over Communists. This would not be a problem in itself (Moscow has also changed some road and metro names) yet old habits die hard and the majority of the population, regardless of ethnicity still refer to the ‘old’ name even though street signs list only the new one. And just to make your life even more difficult, since roads can be many miles long you will need to tell your driver not only the (old) name, but also the name of the nearest intersection. Sounds daunting but you get used to it – just allow ample time as buildings are large and what looks like a stone’s throw away on a map could be a half hour drive, and traffic jams are common throughout the day. A metro has been built recently but currently only has one line and whilst beautifully decorated is of limited use to business travelers, but cabs are cheap and plentiful. Do keep some energy for Almaty’s nightlife which has to be the best in Central Asia, boasting an excellent & growing selection of bars, cafes, restaurants & nightclubs. There is a solid Expat crowd which is welcoming & easy to break into, and

Getting there: From Moscow, Kazakhstan’s flagship carrier Air Astana flies twice daily to Almaty & daily to Astana, from where you can connect to around a dozen cities within Kazakhstan. Additionally Aeroflot fly daily to Karaganda and Transaero fly three times a week to Aktau, Atyrau, Aktobe & Shimkent, daily to Astana, twice daily to Almaty five times a week to Karaganda. S7 fly to UstKamenogorsk & Almaty three times a week, and to Pavlodar, Semey (Semipalatinsk), & Shymkent twice a week. SCAT, a local carrier has a poor safety record and is probably best avoided. Most flights leave Moscow late in the evening & arrive in Kazakhstan in the middle of the night or early the following morning, then turn around & make the return journey, although there are some daytime flights to Almaty from Moscow. There are frequent trains, but they take 2-3 days and carry mostly migrant workers on to Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan & Tajikistan so aren’t really what you’d refer to as a fun ride.

Getting in: CIS citizens do not require a visa to visit Kazakhstan. Most others do, although in July 2014, the Kazakh authorities put into place a 1 year visa-free regime for the top ten non-CIS investors (which are, in no particular order, the USA, the UK, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia & the UAE), so for the time being if you hold a passport from one of these countries, you can simply jump on a plane and go. There’s no word yet as to whether this is likely to be extended, so seize the moment! The rest require a visa and these must be obtained in advance. The Kazakh Embassy near metro Chistiye Prudy issues these in a week, and a hotel booking is usually sufficient; can be downloaded from their website. The rules seem to change

Central Asia and many people have been issued visas by sending their driver or secretary along, although applicants are sometimes made to show up in person. Why? Your guess is as good as mine!

Staying there: Numerous international hotels have sprung up in the past few years, particularly in Almaty & Astana, but also on the Caspian. Prices tend to be high as Kazakhstan is very much a business destination so the bigger players have little incentive to offer discounts, even during period of low occupancy.

Speaking there: If you speak Russian, you’ll be absolutely fine as this is the language of business & academia. You may (or may not) be surprised to find out that non-Kazakhs who were born in Kazakhstan and have lived there all their lives rarely speak more than the odd word of Kazakh. Outside of Grade A offices, don’t count on much English being spoken as few have had much exposure to the language. Signs tend to be in both Russian & Kazakh, and occasionally in English. Kazakh uses the Cyrillic script, with an additional nine letters thrown in to account for guttural sounds that you won’t hear in Europe!

Spending there: The Kazakh currency is the Tenge (from where the Russian word ‘Dyengi – money, originates) – ATMs are ubiquitous in larger cities and high-end places accept credit cards but keep some cash for taxis and smaller items. USD, EUR & RUR as the easiest foreign currencies to change and there are plenty of obmeniki. Kazakhstan isn’t a particularly cheap place to travel around (domestic flights are particularly steep as flying is generally the only option) with costs similar to what you’d expect to pay in larger Russian cities.

plenty of networking events if you’re new to town – the remoteness results in foreigners still being much more of a novelty than in Moscow. The only ones complaining are those who have been forced to relocate to Astana or the Caspian! If you’re in the energy business, then the Caspian is where you’ll be headed for, namely Akyrau for the Kashagan oilfield (nicknamed ‘Cash-all-gone’ due to the high cost & harsh conditions), Aksai for nearby Karachaganak or Aktau. Mining operations tend to located in the north of the country, metals in the middle, and manufacturing in the south. The space between cities is vast with a lot of nothing in between! If your business is even remotely connected to the government, your travels are likely to take you to President Nazarbaev’s gleaming new capital, Astana. The city has undergone an incredible transformation over the past two decades and was described as ‘Canberra on steroids’ to me by an Aussie Expat! As a planned city, Astana is often compared to Brasilia or even Naypyidaw in Myanmar (Burma), although this is somewhat misleading since Astana was in fact founded back in 1830, albeit as Akmoly, and then a century later to Akmolinsk. It remained little more than a provincial outpost until the early 1960 when it was renamed Tselenograd to help kick off Khrushchev’s Virgin Lands Campaign, a plan to dramatically boost the Soviet Union’s agricultural production in order to alleviate the food shortages plaguing the Soviet Union. Following independence, the city reverted to the name Akmola, although since this sounds like ‘white grave’ in Kazakh, in 1998, a year after being awarded the title of the country’s capital, it became Astana, which unoriginally in Kazakh means – wait for it – ‘capital’! Pretty much bang in the middle of Kazakhstan, it hasn’t been easy to persuade executives to move to what is the world’s second coldest country (after Mongolia’s Ulan Bator) and is swelteringly hot

in summer, and surrounded by nothing but miles of steppe. In order to cement its status as the country’s capital, Astana has seen a recent influx of Kazakhs from all over the country and consequently is more homogenous & traditionally Kazakh than many other nearby cities; nearby Karaganda is practically Russian by comparison! It’s worth a visit as it is like nothing else in the region (many might cynically argue that there isn’t much else nearby anyway – Astana isn’t somewhere you’d choose to get to in anything other than a plane) and be sure to climb to the top of the Baiterek tower for excellent views across the city. Despite (or maybe because of ) the number of embassies and government organisations, foreigners complain that despite the increasing number of evening options, after-work Astana lacks the excitement of Almaty; many Expats and Kazakhs fly to Almaty for a weekend R&R whenever they can. Being a former Soviet Republic, there are of course many similarities between Kazakhstan, and its northern neighbour, but there are also some subtle differences. For starters, you are in Asia so business is exceptionally male dominated, particularly within the state sector, and anything deemed to be strategic, such as natural resources. Accept the pace of business to be a little slower than you are used to and considerably less aggressive; personal contacts are particularly important although the hospitality of the steppe means that you are unlikely to encounter brusqueness often associated with ex-socialist countries. One of Kazakhstan’s major USPs is that there is very little competition in business, Kazakhs have money in their pockets and prepared to fork out and pay a premium for what they consider to be top quality products & services. It’s a long flight to go shopping abroad for a weekend so most opt to spend locally. Get down there before your competitors do!

Central Asia

A Personal View of Kazakhstan

l Cox

Nige

first set my eyes on the wonderful country that is Kazakhstan in February 1999. After arriving at night, I stumbled out of my small hotel in Almaty, blinking into blinding sunlight. As I slowly adjusted my eyes, I realized that to my right was one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. A long line of tall, craggy, pines and snow-covered mountains crouched above me and stretched far away below a backdrop of a deep blue sky. It was love at first sight.

Even though it is the ninth largest country in the world and even though one of the most historic events in the history of Mankind happened here i.e., Yuri Gagarin being blasted into space from the Baikonur Rocket launching site situated in the Kazakh steppe lands, I never even knew the country existed until I was over 40. Later I learned that apples eaten around the world have their origins here, as do tulips. Beautiful, gently coloured, little wild tulips can still be found on the lower mountain slopes surrounding

Almaty. Further afield, wild apple trees can also be seen.

The people I think that even though the country is spectacularly beautiful, it is the people who keep me here. The two main ethnic groups are Kazakhs, who are the majority, and then Russians. However there are many other groups ranging from Germans to Koreans to Uighurs. Generally they live together harmoniously

Central Asia

and show a friendly interest towards foreigners. This area is often called Eurasia and Eurasiansâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; features can be very attractive especially when a pair of deep brown or green eyes graces their faces. The women are often strikingly beautiful and the men are mostly fit and sporty looking. The children are incredibly cute. Many people you see are mixtures of east and west. The Saki people who lived here in ancient times were quite fair and European looking. However when the horse soldiers of Genghis Khan surged out of Mongolia from the immediate East of the country, all that changed. Even today many Kazakhs claim to be direct descendants of the unstoppable conqueror. I have found the majority of the people to be friendly, kind, welcoming and generous, no matter what their ethnicity. Kazakhstan has no state religion but the main faiths followed are Islam and Christianity. Both beautiful mosques and churches can be found throughout the country. In Almaty there is a park named after Mahatma Gandhi with a statue of the holy man in the centre of it. Due to their great mineral resources, the country has become quite rich since the dissolution of the USSR. The two main cities, Astana, the capital, and Almaty, the business centre of Central Asia, are both modern, fast-developing cities. I am glad to say that despite lots of new development projects Almaty has retained much of its charm and

full of well-dressed residents walking to their work or studies checking their smart phones or laughing and chatting with their companions. The two main languages are Russian and Kazakh but many people speak very good English. Kazakhstan is as big as Western Europe and shares borders with various countries. Border cities often take their character from the nearby country. Pavlodar in the North has a distinctive Russian feel, Chimkent and the beautiful old historic Turkestan, in the South are influenced by Uzbekistan, whilst Zharkent on the Chinese border even has a beautiful Chinese Pagoda in the middle of it. The newly created capital is situated in the centre of the country and is full of shining new modern buildings. It has been called the Dubai of the Steppe. Unlike Dubai, in the winter, the temperature regularly drops to around 40 degrees below zero. The country has a continental climate but it is so vast it varies from area to area especially north to south.

A philosophical view of life

beauty due to itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s close proximity to the mountains, tree lined streets and interesting classical Russian style architecture. The city roads in Almaty are replete with expensive luxury cars and jeeps while the pavements are

Due to their chequered history, the people here have a somewhat down to earth view of life. Currently there is prosperity, especially in the big cities. If things got worse tomorrow, most people would recognize it as part of the inevitable ups and downs of life. Over the last 100 years they have endured world wars, revolution, famine, Stalinist repressions, gulag prison camps, nuclear weapons testing and now independence and prosperity. Despite their thriving new cityscapes and large luxury cars, the older people still remember the dark days that followed the collapse of the Soviet Union. It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t that long ago when the main cars on the streets were beaten up old Ladas and there were daily power cuts.

What upsets one the most? As with much fast paced growth, anywhere in the world, progress has meant the destruction of many

Central Asia of the old quarters of the cities, and subsequently their character. Previously Almaty was called the Father of Apples and the greenest city in the USSR. Unfortunately due to road widening and general development many trees and orchards have been lost but there are still enough to give the central area a green, natural feel to many of the streets in spring and summer. Even though the mountains are still visible from most parts of the city many tall buildings have been built that have diminished the spectacular views somewhat. There are now a lot of skiing and hotel development happening in the mountains and many houses stand in places that were until recently pristine beauty spots. Rubbish is often strewn everywhere in the picnic areas. Bureaucracy and corruption can be a problem and many laws are constantly changing. There is great inequality between the city and village dwellers. Many mountain areas are being developed and fenced off. Car crashes are to be seen every day especially on crossroads due to people driving at unnecessarily excessive speed.

Food The people of Kazakhstan love eating meat, including horse meat. It said that ethnic Kazakhs are second only to wolves in the consumption of meat. Their favourite meal is called Beshparmak and consists of boiled horse meat and strips of pasta. In Almaty and Astana there are restaurants that offer cuisines from all the main ethnic groups and now also American style fast food joints are popping up ‘like mushrooms after the rain’ as they say here. Obviously, Russian food is widely eaten here as is Korean, Chinese, Uygur, Italian and many more cuisines…

Nature The nature in Kazakhstan in many places can only be described as awesome. Mountains, steppe, deserts, huge meandering rivers and raging mountain torrents, canyons, beautiful

lakes large and small are all waiting to be seen here. In the south of the country and on Almaty’s doorstep you find the Tien Shan Mountains (Mountains of Heaven in Chinese). Just 300 kilometres from Almaty on the road to China you find Charyn Canyon, which is on a similar scale to the Grand Canyon in the USA. A short drive up in to the mountains from Charyn brings you to the trio of Kolsay lakes. These are a few of the known beauty spots but there are thousands such natural gems, of all kinds, sprinkled throughout the country. Near Oskemen in the northeast you find, bordering Russia, the vast unspoilt beauty of the Altai mountains. Close to the capital is the rugged rocky lake and forest area of Burabay (Borovoyoe) also known as the Kazakh Switzerland. The weather Kazakhstan somersaults through the whole gamut of weather possibilities ranging from 40 degrees below to 40 degrees above Celsius. In Almaty, winter sports can be practised at Chimbuluk and in the Summer you can relax at the Kapshagay lake resorts, the aka Almaty Riveria.

What do I do in the evenings? These days, in the big cities of Kazakhstan there is a huge array of bars, night clubs, cafes, shopping malls, karaoke bars, restaurants, cinemas, fitness centres etc. The theatre, opera and ballet are also very popular and quite cheap compared to many other places in the World.

What makes me happy? So many things bring me joy here. The friendly people, the feeling of being close to nature even though you are in a city and, for me, a feeling of adventure even in my every day life. My life here is sometimes difficult but never boring. This short piece cannot do any kind of justice to the amazing country that is Kazakhstan. If you want to come for a holiday it has many possibilities and if you are considering employment here, depending on your area of expertise, there can be many very lucrative opportunities.

Business lS Dary

eage

Avoiding

stress at work

t is said that about 65% of the global workforce is stressed, and if we bear in mind that 70% of all illnesses are stressrelated, the picture makes for grim reading. Unofficial reports state the levels of stress are even higher amongst expats living and working overseas. Having lived in Moscow for 5 years, I can testify to the fact that Russia is not for everyone. It takes a certain amount of resilience combined with an attitude of flexibility, acceptance as well as an open mind to be successful here. In recent years Russia has become a more popular destination as it climbs up the OECD better life index as a more appealing country in which to live and work. Working in your native language in your native country is stressful enough, but for those expats looking to forge a career in Russia, the challenge is much greater. They are faced with different workplace practices, differing ethics and approaches as well as a considerable language barrier, especially if they are not fluent in Russian. This is compounded by the added stresses and strains of relocating to a new country, which can make life a bit of struggle.

WHAT IS STRESS? Stress is just the way we react to any given situation that could be threatening or dangerous. This gives rise to the flight, flight or freeze responses and is entirely normal as it’s the body’s way to protect us and help us to meet challenges, whilst keeping us alert and focused.

This is intended as a temporary state of response to deal with a specific event, after which, the body then reverts to normal. However, if we are ‘stressed’ frequently and we don’t have time to recover or rest, this is when the problems start.

HOW TO RECOGNISE STRESS? There are 12 of stages that people tend to go through before they burnout completely, which were outlined by psychologist, Herbert Freudenberger. Burnout is really the eventual stage of not dealing with prolonged periods of stress effectively and not taking action in time.

Working in your native language in your native country is stressful enough, but for those expats looking to forge a career in Russia, the challenge is much greater. 5. Revision of Values Work is the only important thing and they isolate themselves from others, avoid conflicts, and fall into a state of denial towards their basic physical needs while their perceptions change.

1. The Compulsion to Prove Oneself The person wants to prove their capabilities in a new working environment.

6. Denial of Emerging Problems The person begins to become intolerant. They become more aggressive and sarcastic. Problems are blamed on the pressure of work and not enough time.

2. Working Harder They work harder to fit in to the new culture and prove they can adapt to different working practices.

7. Withdrawal Social contact is now at a minimum, almost isolation. They may start to use alcohol or drugs.

3. Neglecting Their Needs They devote everything to work, they now have no time and energy for anything else. Friends and family, eating, and sleeping start to become less important.

8. Obvious Behavioral Changes Coworkers, family, friends, and other people that are in their

4. Displacement of Conflicts They realise that it’s wrong but cannot/ do not know how to change the situation.

It is important to remember that stress in small doses is a positive thing. It can help us to find creative solutions.

Business

immediate social circles cannot overlook the behavioral changes of this person. 9. Depersonalization They lose sense of who they are and what they are worth. Life becomes mechanical and without meaning. 10. Inner Emptiness They feel empty inside and to overcome this, they may engage in excessive amounts of eat, sex, alcohol, or drugs. 11. Depression The person is exhausted, hopeless, indifferent, and believes that there is nothing for them in the future. Symptoms of depression arise.

Stress is just the way we react to any given situation that could be threatening or dangerous 1. The first task is to stop whatever it is that you are doing. This really means stop everything and have a good long look at your work and your private life. 2. Clarify your goals. Ascertain which aspects of work are important to you and prioritise your workload. Get clarification about your job description and responsibilities.

12. Burnout Syndrome They collapse physically and emotionally and should seek immediate medical attention.

3. Talk to someone you respect. Find someone who has been in the same situation, who has moved to Russia and faced similar challenges and see how they managed and dealt with the issues.

HOW TO DEAL WITH STRESS and AVOID IT IN THE FUTURE?

4. Ensure that you make time for yourself daily. Looking after your body is as important as looking after your mind. Getting exercise and fresh air will ensure that your

body is in a condition that can handle stress more effectively. Taking up yoga or meditation also allows greater clarity of thoughts and can relieve anxiety. 5. Learn to say no. Often when we arrive in a new country and a new company we are so keen to be accepted and to impress that we see saying ‘no’ as a negative, which will reflect badly upon us. This being said, it is important to remember that stress in small doses is a positive thing. It can help us to find creative solutions, to achieve faster results and to push ourselves past our limits and out of our comfort zone. How we perceive ‘stress’ is key to determining our attitude towards any given stimulus. By developing a greater sense of self-awareness and choosing an attitude of openness and integrity, you will be able to partner with your Russian colleagues and create the type of working environment, which is low in stress, yet high in productivity.

Business er Weaf Chris

Never Waste a “Men and nations behave wisely when they have exhausted all other resources” is a quote often incorrectly credited to Winston Churchill but which was actually delivered by Israeli politician Abba Eban in 1967. It certainly summarizes a core part of human nature which is the effort many spend trying to avoid taking unpleasant actions when easier short term solutions are available. That is until the point is reached when all the easy alternatives have been exhausted and only the tough course remains. The Soviet Union reached that point in 1991 while Russia was forced into making country transforming changes in 1998/’99. The question now is whether this current economic and geo-political crisis also represents a sort of T-junction when the country, unable to stay on its previous course, must take a left or right turning? The adjunct question is whether this crisis is of sufficient magnitude to force changes in a timely manner or whether the present situation can drag on for many more years before eventually leading to change? There has been a lot of recent optimism that the economic crisis has peaked and the country is now out of danger. Certainly the data for the first four months of the year is encouraging for that viewpoint. From January to end April the rouble rallied by almost 20 percent against the dollar and by over 25 percent against the euro. The RTS equity index rose by over 40 percent, the best performing major index in the world, and debt market investors shrugged off the credit ratings downgrade by Moody’s and S&P to also record an impressive price recovery. The headline macro picture was also relatively good, pointing to a 1st quarter GDP decline of just over 2 percent compared to the same period of 2014. The mood of optimism also stretched to the Central Bank which cut its benchmark interest rate at three consecutive meetings, to end April at 12.5 percent from 17 percent at the start of the year. That’s an impressive performance especially when compared to the many predictions of an economic

collapse and credit defaults widely touted towards the end of last year. But it also removes the immediate sense of urgency to start forcing through changes to both the business environment and investment climate which many have been hoping to see for a long time. The fact that the price of oil has also defied gloomy predictions and has been recently trading in the $65 to $70 per barrel range also helps stabilize the economy and the rouble but works against the interests of the reformers. However, the strength of the positive momentum cannot last. The rouble was pushed higher with several Central Bank and Finance Ministry actions which are short-term in nature and, besides, several ministers are already complaining that the rally was overdone and the rouble, when trading close to 50 against the dollar, was damaging recovery prospects. Near term an exchange rate clinging to either side of 55 to the dollar is to be expected. The oil price will also have more of an impact than seen in the February to April period. At MacroAdvisory we hold an end year rouble-dollar exchange rate at 65 because of the peak external debt repayments period at year end and because we expect the economy to continue sliding and end with a contraction in GDP of 3.5 percent. The year-end rouble-euro rate will be a derivative of the dollar rate and determined by whether the US Fed finally starts to raise interest rate and/or the eurozone solves its internal problems. The danger is that the government is satisfied not only with a frozen conflict in eastern Ukraine, as the lesser of evils, but also with a sort of frozen economy. The threat of a collapse has been avoided and remains perfectly avoidable until past the next election season which comprises the Duma elections in December 2016 and the presidential election in March 2018. If the tough decisions, which include tax rate changes and to the pensions system and retirement age can be kicked past spring 2018 then very few politicians in the world would do otherwise. It means that while the economy can avoid a steep and immediate crisis it faces, almost at best, a several year

Business period of very low growth in the range 1 to 2 percent. For an economy at Russiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stage of development that is borderline stagnation. That is the real crisis and the one which the Kremlin will eventually be forced to react to rather than to the destruction predicted for this year. To better understand the nature of this particular crisis it is worth placing it into two separate contexts, one economic and the other political. For the economy the base issue is that the reason for the strong growth recorded from 2002 to 2008, and the driver of the recovery in 2010 to 2012, was the rapid expansion the

Good Crisis consumer and related service sectors. The $3 trillion of oil and gas export earnings had a strong influence via the budget spending and so-called trickle-down effect but, of itself, it was not the main driver of headline growth. That became obvious during 2013 when growth started to slow even though the oil price averaged close to $110 per barrel. Even President Putin was forced to acknowledge that this phase of growth was over in Russia and the economy needed to find a new driver of growth based on a much higher volume of investment. That was the economic backdrop coming into the 2014 crisis and remains unchanged today. It will remain the core problem even if oil stabilizes at a higher price and sanctions start to ease later this year. The geopolitical context is also relevant to the position in which Russia now finds itself. For the past two decades the country has been very western focused and the majority of investment and expertise has come from that direction. That relationship has now been severely reset if not altered for many years to come. Certainly past 2024 assuming Vladimir Putin is returned to the Kremlin in 2018. The Kremlin is now much more active in building political and economic ties with China, southern Asia and amongst the other so-called BRICS nations. The push to create the Eurasian Economic Union, as evidenced by the many concessions agreed by Moscow, is also part of the Kremlinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wish to see a multi-polar world in terms of political and economic power. It is already clear enough that while Russia has definitely shifted its political alliances and it will get some inward investment from China, in particular, this will be limited in size and scope. Beijing makes no secret of its interest in investment in extractive industries and transport infrastructure but little else. To advance the economy to again achieve 4 percent, or better, growth and to see meaningful progress in such areas as import-substitution, the theme-slogan of this particular crisis, Russia needs to retain the involvement

of experienced western companies. And to be fair, there is absolutely no evidence that the reset in politics is disadvantaging any western company working in Russia today. If anything, the evidence suggests that those who commit to staying and investing will be able to drive some deals or resolve problems which previously might have been difficult. I remain optimistic that, with an historical perspective, the crisis of 2014-15, will be viewed as a critical turning point when the government finally started to get more serious about improving the business and investment climate and the frustrations of reformers started to ease. As an economy Russia will never again deliver the high growth rates which some industries, especially in the consumer and services sectors, enjoyed over the past dozen years. Some new industries, such as online retailing and other technology based services, probably will for many years to come. The economy is, however, perfectly capable of delivering above developed market average returns for most businesses. The precondition for that is, when the T-junction is finally reached, the country turns in the direction of an improved investment environment and continued openness to western businesses rather than in the direction of nationalism and isolationism. For me the main question is not which direction but whether it will take the crisis of 201415 to reach that point or the crisis of 2013-2018?

Business - survival

Don Giulio r

aaije ke W b a W

Starting your business in Russia is not easy, especially in times of inflation and sanctions. According to Italian entrepreneur Giulio, a deep, sincere love for Russia and a creative approach are the secrets of success.

t was a tough winter for Giulio (44), owner of the Italian delicacy shops ‘Don Giulio’ and restaurant La Scarpetta. At the beginning of the Ukrainian crisis, in the end of 2013, Giulio opened his first shop on the renovated and scenic Pokrovka Street selling Italian curedmeat, a wide selection of cheese, home-made desserts, pasta’s and other delicacies. Since then relations between Russia and the West became worse by the day resulting finally – after Western sanctions – in an embargo introduced by Russia against agricultural products from the EU, Norway, the VS, Canada and Australia. The import ban on meat, dairy products and fruit and vegetables directly influenced Giulio’s business since Grana Padano (Italian cheeses) and cured imported meats are his specialties. But economic uncertainty did not stop him expanding his business. On the contrary, it forced Giulio to realize his business plans more quickly. In autumn last year, just after the introduction of the embargo, he opened a second shop in Moscow. In December, even whilst the rouble plummeted to a historic low against the Euro, he opened La Scarpetta followed by a third shop on Pyatnitskaya Street in February. To survive, this Italian diversified his suppliers, and he is now not dependent on Italian products made in Italy, he says. Long before anyone could guess that relations between Russia and Europe would become so strained, let alone that there would be an outright ban on imports, Giulio, who has already lived

12 years in Russia, started to devise methods of producing meat and cheese according to Italian methods and recipes in Russia. With an Italian friend, he started production of products prepared in the way that he wanted on a farm in the Tver region. Last autumn, Giulio travelled all the way to Chechnya to buy some buffalo for the farm in order to make mozzarella di buffalo. “Russia’s decision to ban Western products forced us to speed up development of the farm. It takes a lot of time and effort to make cheese and meat that really tastes like it does in Italy. Certain cheeses need to mature for one or two years before they are ready for sale. Therefore we were not immediately ready to sell stuff made at the farm,” explains Giulio. He believes it is possible to produce cheese and meat that is as good as their Italian counterparts as long as you know how to make it. Some people say the import ban stimulates Russia’s economy however Giulio does not think so. “An embargo is never good for a country. As a result of the food ban many Russian companies have started to produce typical import products such as cheese. Russia has enough resources to make her own products. However, it is not all about money. The result will not be longlasting if the production process is not embedded in a culture.” Not everyone in Moscow is sanction-proof like Giulio. “Italian restaurants are going through difficult times at the moment,” he says. “Of course my colleagues

suffer because of the embargo and devaluation of the rouble, however, it does not mean they will perish. They find solutions, for example they change their menu. Why should an Italian menu always look the same?” While Giulio has expanded his business with three shops and a restaurant in the centre of Moscow, people are spending less. “We try to keep our prices as low as possible and we are going to introduce a card loyalty system which enables clients to get attractive discounts.” Actually, the dramatic fall of the rouble in December helped the Italian delicacy shops to survive the winter, Giulio continues ironically. Because of the December devaluation, they sold fewer products than expected and had enough Italian products which they had imported before the embargo to sell until the summer. “Our stock is not eternal but I expect when our supply of import products has finished, the products made in Russia will be ready for sale.”This summer many of the meat delicacies made at the farm in Tver region will make their debut in Giulio’s shops. He is already selling dairy products according to Italian recipes but made in Russia. Despite the crisis, Giulio believes that Muscovites and foreigners will keep coming to his shops and restaurant: “Moscow is a city with many ‘gourmands’. They appreciate good food and understand that quality can’t be cheap because it takes time to produce it.” Giulio does not think the crisis will make many Italians leave Moscow. “Many Italians who live here really do love

Business - survival

and the Food Industry in Times of Crisis

Russia and they will stay even in difficult times like this.” Italians love food, and are resourceful: “Many colleagues are experimenting with producing their own products such as salami in Russia. Everyone has to invent something and find a way to survive.” This does not mean that

they all have their own farm like Giulio does. “Some of my colleagues have their own factory, others have their own laboratory.” Giulio hopes the embargo will be lifted soon, although this will not necessarily make things easier. He explained: “as long as the rouble stays weak,

import of Italian products will be expensive. It is difficult to keep prices as low as we would like but by carefully thinking over what we purchase, and by buying wholesale, we succeed quite well. I think you pay less for our Minestrone soup in Moscow, than you would do in Italy!”

Business

IN RUSSIA TRENDS AND KEY FIGURES.

2014-2015

mid the sanctions which are still very much alive, the still unstable rouble and the shaky Russian economy, the question of investing into Russian business is as sensitive as ever, and each investor finds his or her own way of making the best of the situation. Looking at international brands operating in Russia, one notes that, despite a general decrease in global brands on the market in 2014, as compared to 2013 and 2012, there still are plenty of new kids on the block. 32 new international brands

entered the Russian market over the past few years. MOST NOTABLE NEWCOMERS ARE: MONCLER, AGNONA, SANDRO, MAJE, HOOTERS, KRISPY CRÈME, SHAKE SHACK, PRENATAL MILANO. While international brands are out to get their share of the market, Russian entrepreneurs are becoming interested in brands that show a stable franchise development. Crisis conditions serve as fertile ground for Russian franchises. The crisis of 2008 proved the feasibility of international franchising concepts – businesses did not just survive, but

have shown dynamic development and growth. The Russian Franchise Association estimates that the Russian franchising market has been growing by 25% per annum over the last five years. Comparing the Russian market with the Brazilian, Australian, and South African markets, and with the dynamics of franchising development, one can expect the total value of franchising companies’ contribution to Russian GDP in 2020 to amount somewhere between 300-500 billion roubles, with over 2,000 concepts, more than 100,000

Business street (Tverskaya, Nevsky prospect etc.,) – before, companies just had to be there for the sake of it; you can’t really make any profit there. Today, these locations are being closed, and the companies benefit. A crisis can also revitalize the catering industry, in a sense: companies re-evaluate their relationships with producers, find new ones, lower net cost and, as a result, grow stronger. This is what I myself see happening today”. Today, about 1,000 brands in Russia being franchised. The majority are in retail – 54% (mostly non-food), 25% are food services, 20-22% are general services.

By Elena Likhacheva, Editor-in-Chief www. buybrand.ru Food services are gradually growing stronger in Russia with the fast food segment enjoying rapid growth. That is typical for any market, above all for developing markets, and Russia is no exception. The crisis has not only had no negative effect on it – it has helped it develop. 900 catering establishments in Moscow have closed since December 2014 (that’s

8% of total catering locations in Moscow), and 3,000 are in the process of closing, but there are hardly any fast food restaurants among them. Experts note that only 2 segments of the market have been unaffected by the crisis: elite restaurants and fast food. The middle class establishments with average bills of 2,000 roubles or less were hit the hardest. The fast food segment in Russia is the least vulnerable at the moment – the tougher the economy, the more dynamic its development. Globally speaking, that’s a good sign for Russian franchising as a whole. Fast food is the segment where a Russian franchiser learns to properly communicate with their partners, and these skills, in time, will be adopted by the whole franchising market. It’s also worth noting that, despite the sanctions and the Russia-West confrontation, new networks are still coming to the market, and fast food networks are no exception. During last September’s BUYBRAND Expo, the Schlotzsky’s fast food restaurant concept was introduced to the market, as well as Café Bene, with their international network of over 1500 coffee shops (!), and an authentic UAE franchise (Reem Al Bawadi restaurant). A number of Russian franchises participated as well: Chaikhona №1, Cuba Libre, Sushi Wok, and others. “Speaking of ‘vintage’ participants, – adds Katherine Soyak, – I’d point out British SFC brand. One of its owners, Andrew Weathers, sells their franchises for over 10 years now and has been with us for more than one crisis. And he still represents their concept here in Russia. Note that they have signed 7 contracts during the last expo.” So, you still can and you still should invest in Russia. And, perhaps, now’s the time.

www.buybrand.ru info@expomtg.com

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points of sales and about 2 million employed and self-employed people. International companies face the same problems as Russian companies, both in retail and in food services. A drop in demand and decrease of average takings, is clearly not very good for further business development. On the other hand, a decrease in rents and market competition gives foreign companies a chance to successfully join the Russian market and consolidate. For example, Finnish network Hesburger’s master franchisee (which also controls Cinnabon and Auntie Anne’s) considers the crisis as a world of opportunities thanks to a decrease in rent costs and plans to launch 15 restaurants here over the next few months. Experienced franchisers from around the world see the crisis as an excellent time to form new partnerships. This is doubly so for the fast food business. “A crisis is the prime time for franchising, – says Yekaterina Soyak, CEO, EMTG that organises BUYBRAND, the largest Russian franchise expo, – And there’s a logical explanation: before, people making money in oil and gas and other industries were investing in real estate, luxury cars and yachts, but now, when it’s about saving their money, they look into franchising. Another point to consider: franchising companies have better business models and management systems, so, when a crisis comes and independent businesses struggle to survive, franchisers easily swallow them up. In addition to that, franchisers themselves tend to ‘clean up’, so to speak, their businesses from the inside. Yes, we closed a number of our locations, including franchised businesses, and just look at the outstanding results we’re having. Some say that they’ve never had such profits; even before the crisis. They owe it to closing locations that were really more image-making than anything else. Take, for example, a busy central

Business Alternative Future of Interbank Communications or What Will Be Replaced rov in Lieu of SWIFT? Pova i e r d n By A

any of us have heard about the creation of a new electronic payment system to replace SWIFT in Russia. Some of us have heard about China doing the same and Russia joining it. Very few know that by now both systems are ready. Will they replace SWIFT? To understand this, let’s see what has urged two countries to act and what these systems were designed for. First of all, what is SWIFT? Created in 1973 and operational from 1977, the Society for Worldwide Interbank Financial Telecommunication (S.W.I.F.T. or SWIFT) enables its users – banks, securities institutions, corporate customers – to exchange standardized financial information in a secure and reliable way, which is also (by now) extremely inexpensive. Contrary to common belief, traderelated money exchanges only make up only 40% of traffic while the rest is secure messaging and general bulk data exchange1. SWIFT is a member-owned cooperative connecting more than 10,800 organizations in 215 countries and territories.

The story begins in 2014 with a purely political agenda when the US and the EU threatened to cut Russia off from SWIFT. The idea was to disable Russian key foreign exchange players in the oil and gas industry processing US dollar payments which are critical to service corporative and bank’ debt, estimated to reach $100bn in 20152. Normal business in Russia would then be severely disrupted, increasing the risk of default.

“

“...The idea was to disable Russian key foreign exchange players in the oil and gas industry processing US dollar payments which are critical to service corporative and bank.”

Can this threat materialize and is it actually possible to disconnect a country from SWIFT? Being a EU-based company (registered in Belgium), SWIFT will disconnect Russia only if the EU authorities make a relevant decision. Otherwise any political pressure on SWIFT is illegal. In practice, SWIFT had to (or chose to) obey external instructions at least twice. Following 9/11, the US obtained access to the private data of SWIFT members and in 2012, SWIFT agreed to de-list 30 Iranian financial institutions (including the Iranian

Central Bank) as part of the US/EU sanctions to prevent Iran receiving billions of dollars of oil revenue. What will happen if Russia is cut off from SWIFT? There are three areas potentially affected: bank transfers in roubles within Russia, exchanges between Russia and outside world and internal USD/EUR transfers used mainly for settlement between companies. The good news for Russia is that internal rouble transfers will not be affected: they are processed by the Central Bank’s Real Time Gross Settlement System (BESP) which has been operational since 20073 and connected to SWIFT via a gateway in 20114. This actually halves the potential damage to the Russian economy. There is now an alternative to card-based payments systems (like Visa and MasterCard) where money flows are processed outside of Russia. The Central Bank is creating a massive new ‘National System of Payment Cards (NSPK),’ to replace this. The first phase has already been completed (at the end of March). All Visa and MasterCard transactions within Russia are now going through NSPK, the second phase – for other payment systems such as AMEX, Diners, UPI, JCB (plus NSPK’s own card, which is really an extra good-to-have feature) – by this December. The second area, external exchanges, would indeed be seriously disrupted by a cut-off, taking Russia back to the pre-

Köppel J., The SWIFT Affair : Swiss Banking Secrecy and the Fight against Terrorist Financing. Graduate Institute Publications, Genève, 2011 books.openedition.org/iheid/323 Sanctions on SWIFT Could Hit Russia Where It Hurts Most, Investopedia, February 23, 2015 www.investopedia.com/articles/investing/022315/sanctions-swift-couldhit-russia-where-it-hurts-most.asp 3 Положение Банка России от 25 апреля 2007 года № 303-П «О системе валовых расчетов в режиме реального времени Банка России» www.cbr.ru/analytics/ standart_acts/p_system/303-p.pdf 4 BESP-SWIFT Gateway, Information Letter №91, 22.08.2011 www.cbr.ru/mcirabis/SWIFTNet/Inf_Mci_91.pdf 1

Business SWIFT world of telex messages (representing the Middle Ages of financial exchanges 1930-1980), and even paper-based transactions (Stone Age). Operations will be less reliable, less secure, will take much longer and consume more resources. Economies will suffer, however nothing dramatic will happen. Would Russia be prepared to go this route? Possibly yes but there is another way to go – and thanks to Iran, it has been proven in practice! For two banks to exchange funds it is enough to hold accounts in a correspondent bank that can be in a neighbouring country, not de-listed from SWIFT. For this, a messaging mechanism to this country needs to be built – similar to SWIFT but much lighter, or an independent regional system can be created e.g., for the Shanghai Cooperation Organization (SCO) or BRICS. In a recent poll, the payment industry journal PLUS found that the majority of respondents (62.5%) see the way forward is in creating BRICS/SCO SWIFT alternatives5. Was the true purpose of the Russian-built system, to provide a workaround system for now and to become part of the regional exchange later? Probably yes, but the system as it is now, available from December 2014 with 91 banks connected, does not do this, it addresses a different problem – and this is the third area of impact – non-rouble internal operations. Technically (for those who are interested) compatibility is achieved via ED503 SWIFT-format messages replacing previous openformat ED501 (introduced in 2010 unsuccessfully). There is a restriction

confirming the system’s limited use: sending ED503 is only possible during working days from 07:0021:00 Moscow time while SWIFT is operational 24/76. The other consideration is the message cost. No wonder it is higher in the Russian system; it took SWIFT 40 years to achieve true operational excellence and economy of scale. This alone creates high entry barriers for any SWIFT-replacing solution (add to this users’ trust, a large network and critical mass of clients). So Russia does not aim to build such a solution. How about China?

“

“The ultimate ambition for the Yuan is to become the dominant international currency.”

China International Payment System is a Chinese-only system aiming to promote the Yuan and the Chinese economy, which is different from the common SCO or common BRICS system mentioned above, which aims to facilitate trade between these groups of countries and to partially replace SWIFT in the SCO region. CIPS, not to confuse with UPI is reported to be ready, and may be launched as early as September7. 20 banks were selected for testing; among them 7 are subsidiaries of foreign banks. It will process cross-border Yuan transactions allowing market players to deal directly and easily with Chinese counterparts and remove all existing hurdles. Today Yuan clearing is done via offshore/ Chinese corresponding banks with coding systems’ differences and language barriers dramatically

slowing down their operations. Transaction costs and processing times will be cut, making Yuan payments nearly instantaneous through any CIPS-listed financial institution anywhere in the world8. This will facilitate economic activities and attract investments, but even more importantly this should greatly increase global usage of the Yuan and help it eventually to become a reserve currency, i.e., one that central banks will hold as part of their foreign currency reserve . At the moment more than 60 central banks already do this while many more are waiting. The ultimate ambition for the Yuan is to become the dominant international currency. It is a slow process and such changes happen rarely – last time it was more than half-century ago when the world shifted from sterling to dollar10. So China’s target is not to replace SWIFT, it is to replace the dollar. Recent international events have only encouraged China to accelerate the roll out of its own international payment system and to show the world that the dollar is replaceable as a reserve currency. Will Russia join CIPS? Yes, but mostly to make trading with China more convenient. Will Russia be switched off from SWIFT? Very unlikely. Recent news reconfirms this: the US/EU have reportedly ruled this out because “it would cause too much collateral damage”11 and Russia has received a seat on the board of SWIFT due to the increased banking traffic, for the first time since it joined in 198912. What will happen to the new Russian system? It will probably continue in its niche and stand by as a base for a future workaround, if ever needed.

PLUS Poll, www.plusworld.ru/journal/online/art179878/, www.plusworld.ru/votes/result.php?VOTE_ID=71 SWIFT, banki.ru, 31.01.2015 www.banki.ru/news/daytheme/?id=7623041 China’s international payments system ready, Reuters, Mar 9, 2015 www.reuters.com/article/2015/03/09/us-china-yuan-payments-exclusiveidUSKBN0M50BV20150309?irpc=932 8 Corbett J., China’s SWIFT Alternative and the (Engineered) Death of the Dollar, TheInternationalForecaster.com, March 11, 2015 www.corbettreport.com/chinas-swiftalternative-and-the-engineered-death-of-the-dollar/ 9 Nellis J., Parker D., Principles of Macroeconomics, Pearson Education Ltd, 2004 10 Eichengreen B., Sterling’s Past, Dollar’s Future: Historical Perspectives on Reserve Currency Competition, National Bureau of Economic Research, Cambridge 2005, www.nber.org/papers/w11336 11 Russian Cutoff From Banking Backbone Said to Be Ruled Out, Bloomberg, March 19, 2015 www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-03-19/russian-cutoff-from-bankbackbone-said-to-be-ruled-out-as-option 12 Russia gets seat on SWIFT board, March 11, 2015 rt.com/business/239581-swift-russia-board-traffic/ 5 6 7

Business

ohns

J Brian

DON’T DIE INTESTATE

therwise your loved ones may be left to untangle your legacy, giving them months or even years of aggravation instead of remembering the good times you shared with them. This was brought home dramatically to me recently after the death of a long-term client of the company. Although I had asked on several occasions if his will was up to date it turned out that he had never actually prepared one. His former partner in the UK and his new partner here in Russia are now fighting over the remains of his assets both no doubt being helped by lawyers eager to have their share of the spoils. It’s a distressing time for all the people involved and instead of celebrating his life and achievements they instead have to argue and fight over the remaining assets. There are also children involved in both countries which complicated the situation even more. Keeping hold of your accumulated wealth and making sure that it is ultimately distributed to those you had intended are the two main objectives of fiduciary services. Many Specialist asset protection companies have been established to make sure that your assets are appropriately sheltered and efficiently passed to your nominated beneficiaries. It is also important to set out what you want to happen in the event of severe illnesses or life changing events that leave you unable to make decisions for yourself. With this in mind we at PFS offer three levels of assurance, which start with the most basic, and fundamental of documents – the Will.

STEP 1: Why do I need to make a Will? A Will makes it much easier for your family or friends to sort everything out concerning your assets and family when you die – without a Will the process can be more time consuming and stressful. If you don’t write a Will, everything you own will be shared out in a standard way defined by the law – which isn’t always the way you might want.

A Will can help reduce the amount of Inheritance Tax (IHT) that may be payable on the value of the property and money you leave behind. Writing a Will, which includes instructions on Guardianship and offers a Power of Attorney, is especially important if you have children or other family members who depend on you financially, or if you want to leave something to people outside your immediate family.

Do I also need a Living Will? The simple answer is Yes. A Living Will allows you to take care of ‘end of life’ decisions about care, medical treatment etc. This lasting power of attorney comes into effect if you are unable to make decisions for yourself and remains in effect until you die. Once you have made a Living Will, appointed Guardians as necessary and executed a Power of Attorney all of your basic asset protection needs have been taken care of.

Business

Step 2: Do I need a Trust? This depends on your asset base and the complexity of your estate. Not everybody has the need for a Trust, but it should definitely be carefully considered, rather than dismissed because you think that Trusts are only used by wealthy aristocrats. Assets such as investment portfolios and property may be put under a discretionary Trust. This Trust is legally owned by the Trustees who you appoint and give direction to. With you as Settlor, and whoever you want to have the asset as the ultimate ‘beneficiary’, this structure

will guarantee that the assets are passed to the right people and avoid the many potential problems that often arise as a result of insufficient planning. The Trust can also make sure that your assets are kept away from governments, lawyers, ex-partners and spouses. In summary the Trust allows a good measure of asset control and protection. If after analysis with your Platinum Consultant it is deemed that a Trust is useful then you should also consider an ORSO Trust.

Step 3: Consider establishing a Hong Kong ORSO ORSO or the Occupational Retirement Scheme Ordinance offers a tax-exempt Hong Kong pension vehicle, which works in a similar way as the Trust described

above. The ORSO goes even further and is a solution is for anybody who has UK or OECD assets. Created under British rule in 1993, the ORSO is recognized and quoted on Her Majesty’s Revenue & Customs (HMRC) website as a tax exempt pension. The ORSO is able to hold UK and overseas property and exempt it from Capital Gains (CGT) and Inheritance Tax (IHT) which is now more crucial than ever following the introduction of CGT from April 2015 for anyone who owns UK investment property. The UK is also bringing in an annual tax on properties valued over £500,000 and owned by a non-natural person. In addition UK IHT, which is charged at 40% on estate values over £325,000, can be legitimately mitigated by using an OR SO. An ORSO goes one step further than a simple Trust and can more than pay for itself because of the huge tax savings that it affords its owners.

Platinum Fiduciary Services

P.F.S. International’s office in Moscow is at Office 1909, Imperia Tower, Presnenskaya Naberezhnaya 6, Moscow City International Business Centre, Moscow 123317 + 7 495 660 8887 brianjohnson@fsplatinum.com Platinum Financial Services are affiliate members of the Society of Will Writers

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Dependent on your nationality and the complexity of your affairs, you may well have also mitigated IHT on certain assets, which can now legitimately by-pass your estate. The next step of asset protection is to consider the creation of a Trust.

Moscow Good Food Club

addo Kim W

The Café Ruse at the Ritz Carlton The ratings: Food Quality: Quality/Suitability of the drinks: The service standards: The general rating of the meal:

47,5 58 62,5 52,5

t was a dark night in crisis-hit Moscow as the heroic members of the Moscow Good Food Club made their ways surreptitiously into the halloed halls of the Ritz Carlton. With doom and gloom surrounding us, one long standing member mentioned that it was somewhat similar to being Members of the Resistance as we secretly gathered in the Café Ruse. However, once together and amongst trusted friends the veil of secrecy evaporated, we relaxed and laughter ensued! Maybe it was due to the amazingly creative cocktails that were presented to us by the O2’s leading bar tender, Vitaly. Reflecting the Peruvian accent to the O2, his signature cocktail is called 67 and the ingredients included, Pisco (Peruvian brandy), Bianco Vermouth, lime juice, sugar, egg white, fresh green grapes decorated with cinnamon and mint. The stage was set for another memorable Moscow Good Food Club; Good Food, Good Wine and great company. We took our seats meeting old and new friends and eagerly awaited the first course of Salmon Tartar

with yuzu ponzu dressing with friend onion and pink radish. An amazing creation that was exceedingly well balanced by the light Voignier, Gai Kodzor from Krasnodar. This was during the dark days of the crisis and our great friend and the Chief Sommelier of the Ritz Carlton, Anton Galkin had some creative wine suggestions for us. For many reasons he had decided that this evening we would enjoy only Russian wine. This raised some eyebrows but all members were eager to try and be educated. We were not disappointed! Most of the wines were from only the second vintage and whilst we would not go out an add them to our cellars, the wines were most interesting and well balanced for the dishes prepared by Executive Chef Fabien Gailly. The second course was a wild mushroom risotto, fried quail egg and parmesan foam accompanied by a Rousanne de Gai Kodzor also from Krasnodar. There were many discussions on the ‘doneness’ of the risotto with some feeling that it could have used a minute or two more,

Moscow Good Food Club

however others enjoyed the slightly crunchy texture and delicious flavours with the wine being a perfect match. It was then on to the main course of roasted chicken breast, pan friend polenta, mushroom and natural jus. Huge helpings of perfectly cooked chicken complemented the polenta and mushroom with the natural jus. The wine was a Krasnostop Unoaked Vernikov from Rostov on Don. Again only the second vintage but a delicious red to watch for in the future. The piece de resistance was the beautifully light and tangy Lemon Meringue Pie accompanied by the Muscat de Gai Kodzor an absolutely amazing sweet wine that had many of our connoisseurs grabbing for their phones to make a careful note of the label. It was a perfect match and a dessert wine that can take it’s place honourably beside its long established European peers. With all members well filled and relaxed by the excellent wine choices, it was time for the critique. With 7 critiques, the highest score could have been 70, how did the Café Russia in the Ritz Carlton score:-

As is tradition, our venerable members were asked to discuss a given topic with their spokespersons delivering the verdicts at the end. On this occasion the question was: ‘Hopefully “Our Winter of Discontent” appears to be over. We have seen many changes over the last months that require creative thinking. Please provide us with 5 tips for survival during sanctions!’ After the highly attentive service of our Sommelier and his team, the answers ranged from hilarious to unprintable(!) but included: Don’t read the foreign press: make sure that you are paid in hard currency: adapt, try and trust local produce; learn to take the rough with the smooth; remain optimistic and drink more! So with grateful thanks for the entire team at the Café Russe in the Ritz Carlton our brave members returned to their normal clandestine lives in Moscow well imbibed and content. Others however were noted taking the lifts to the rooftop 02 Lounge to try another of Vitaly’s amazing inventory of creative cocktails. Long live the Moscow Good Food Club!

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants SCANDINAVIA 7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Skandinavian, $$

OSTERIA DELLA PIAZZA BIANCA Moscow Good Food

Club

“Comfortable, calm restaurant with high quality cuisine offering many Scandinavian specialities”

Lesnaya street 5a M. Belarusskaya Cuisine: Italian $$$$

Moscow Good Food

Club

Full a la Carte menu incorporating healthy dishes made from organic ingredients. Open kitchen and excellent food & wine

Moscow Good Food

Club

“Superb food at sensible prices prepared by excellent chefs with friendly, efficient service”

AROMASS INDIAN RESTAURANT

STEAKHOUSE & BAR Moscow Good Food

Club

Moscow’s most popular steakhouse & bar. Top steaks, efficient service and large wine list

KATIE O SHEA’S Groholsky Per 25, Bldg 5 M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Irish, $$ Genuine Irish pub with great beer, food and atmosphere

Krizhizanovskovo 20/30 M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Indian, $ www.aromass.ru +7 499 125 6276

“The most authentic and best Indian food in Moscow. Delivery service also available”

TORRO GRILL Multiple M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ Some of the best steaks in Moscow. Great service, great drinks and great prices

Club

Muzey, Kosmodimianskaya nab. 52/7 (next to Swisshotel)Moscow Good Food M. Paveletskaya Club Cuisine: Italian, European, Pan-Asian, $$ Extremely comfortable Italian restaurant serving high quality creative & traditional Italian cuisine, personally cooked by Chef Marco Lachetta

WINE RELIGION Moscow Good Food

Club

Michurinsky Pr.16 M. Universitet Cuisine: European Bistro $$$

Moscow Good Food

Club

New style of European bistro with creative food and a large wine selection.

“Casual but elegant restaurant offering an entertaining gastronomic experience”

CHICAGO PRIME:

Good Food

MUZEY RESTAURANT

17 Tverskaya St M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Scandinavian, Moscow Good Food European, $$$ Club +7 495 629 4165 www.nightflight.ru

22, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Moscow

Comfortable and classy restaurant with creative dished from the Finnish chef.

CHEKHONTE

True Italian cuisine from Executive Chef Giuseppe Todisco

Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Club

Tverskoy bulvar 26, bldg 2 M. Pushkinskaya. Cuisine Scandinavian, International $$$$

NIGHT FLIGHT

ITALIANETS 13, Samotechnaya Ul, m. Trubnaya, Cuisine Italian, English menu price $$$

Good Food

Typical Italian traditions for food and hospitality. Food care is the most important aspect, with freshness and simplicity as the main characteristics. Feel and breath Italian culture and true Italian cuisine.

REAL FOOD RESTAURANT Crowne Plaza Hotel/WTC Krasnopresenskaya Nab 12.

Moscow

ORANGE TREE RESTAURANT

HUDSON BAR 10, Butirsky Val M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$ Lively bar with good food, superb cocktails, great atmosphere & excellent service

SILVERS IRISH PUB

CAFE RUSSE Ritz Carlton, Tverskaya St 3, M. Okhotny Ryad, Moscow Good Food Cuisine: Club Euopean $$$ Casual dining in an elegant atmosphere, top chefs and extensive wine list

STARLITE DINER

5/6, Nikitsky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Pub food, $$

8a, Strasnow Bulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, $$

“Traditional Irish hospitality with great pub food and excellent beers”

Moscow’s original diners still serving our favourite food

Community Services Business Clubs/Organisations

The Association of European Business (AEB) CEO: Dr. Frank Schauff Web site: www.aebrus.ru

AEB is an active community of about 630 members, providing a network for sharing opinion and experience. The AEB is an advocate of its members’ opinions, generated in 40 industrial and crosssectorial committees, sub- committees and working groups.

ITA Italian Trade Agency Director: Maurizio Forte Web site: www.italtrade.com/rossija

The ITA supports the internationslaisation of the Italian economy. We have been working in Russia since 1966.

French-Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (CCIFR) General Director: Pavel Chinsky Web site: http://www.ccifr.ru

The Danish Business Club in Moscow Chairman: Kasper Ditlevsen Daytime job: Commercial Director – Uhrenholt Russia & CIS Web site:www.dbcmoscow.camp9.org

The Danish Business Club has both corporate and private members, almost all of whom are based in or doing business in Moscow. About 80% of our subscribing members are Danish.

The French-Russian Chamber of Commerce and Industry is aimed at developing economic cooperation between Russia and France. We organise a large variety of different events for our members to meet each other, such as sector committees, business presentations, B2B meetings, cultural events.

CCIR (Camera di Commercio Italo-Russa) Director: Marisa Florio Web site: www.ccir.it/ccir/

Russia continues to offer massive opportunities to British businesses, but it takes stamina to see them through. The BBC offers a small sanctuary of Britain to help in these times.

WE organise and attend a lot of trade exhibitions each year and help all of our members establish themselves in Russia.

The Irish Business Club Chairperson: Avril Conway Web site: www.moscowirishclub.ru

The members of the Irish Business Club are a mix of both Russian and Irish professional people and private individuals. It takes some time to understand the Russian culture and to make friends. We try and help in these respects as much as we can.

The Wirtschaftsclub Russland is an umbrella organisation for German speaking business people in Russia. We hold events throughout the year, our last one being ‘Building European Bridges’ on the 1st of April, when we invited Olympic Medalists Alexander Schachner and Wolfgang Fasching. Wirtschaftsclub Russland CEO: Dr Karin von Bismark Web site: www.wirtschaftsclubrussland.org

British Business Club President: Don Scott Web site: www.britishclub.ru

Alexander Janeczek, Head of the Polish Business Club

Italian Business Club (ITAM) President: Giovanni Stornante

We organise social and professional events for the Italian community. We bring Italians together, help their integration when they move to the big city, facilitate the exchange of ideas, experience and opportunities between the Italian and other business communities.

The Polish Business Club was created 15 years ago to develop contacts between Polish and Russian companies, and to provide business support; such as help in renting an apartment, how to get medical help and advice on where to go in your free time. The Club’s main mission is business development in Russia.

Community Services Women’s Clubs/Associations International Women’s Club of Moscow (IWC)

The Swedish Women’s Educational Association (SWEA) SWEA is an international organisation, with 7,500 members in 34 countries all over the world. The fact that the 90-member strong Moscow chapter fits into a large international organisation, has many advantages. The main purpose of the SWEA in Moscow is to act as a network for members, to support Swedish culture and Swedish languages. The majority of SWEA’s 90 members in Russia are accompanying spouses, even though the trend is that more and more women come here by themselves for career reasons working for Swedish companies.

President: Ann Charlotte Norin Web Site:

www.moskva.swea.org

The American Women’s Organisation The International Women’s Club of Moscow is a not-forprofit organisation which exists to promote friendship and cooperation between women and men of all nationalities. Explore our website to find out more about our events, how to join, and the charities we support. President: Afrah Mohammed Alfaddaghi, the wife of The Ambassador of the State of Kuwait. Web Site: www.iwcmoscow.ru

The British Women’s Club (BWC)

The German’s Women’s Group This is a new German-speaking group which organises meetings for German and Austrian women. Meetings are held every second Wednesday. The group supports newcomers and those who have been here longer. Founder: Monika Michaely Email: info@deutschegruppemoskau.com

Chairwoman: Fiona Johnston Web Site:

www.bwcmoscow.org.uk

BWC was set up in 2000. When British women arrive here they may need help and support from each other to understand basic things like where to shop for food, information about schools and to get to know other Brits. Mainly it is a help group, because it can be quite a shock settling here if you don’t speak Russian. Women generally introduce themselves before they move to Moscow. And we let the ladies know on what is going on in the city. As long as you have a British passport yourself or you married to somebody who holds a British passport you can become the member of BWC. We have quite a few Russian wives who are members. Once a month we hold our monthly meeting at the British embassy. We have a committee with ten members. We meet once a month and make decisions about what we are going to do during the months ahead.

De Tulpen The Main goal of the Tulips is to provide a social platform for the Dutch speaking ladies in Moscow, do things of interest together and have fun! When you are abroad, one’s own culture becomes so much more important. If anybody wants to connect with us, please find us on the Dutch Cub web site. If people want to go and visit museums, they can do that one their own. But if they want to speak their mother tongue with other people here in Moscow, then here we are. Presidents: Olya Kalmykova and Desiree Dekker Web Site: www.nlclubmoskou.nl

Community Services List of Charities Below is an incomplete list of Charities operating in Moscow which foreigners are known to be involved with. If you wish to list a charity in future issues, please write to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Kidsave Contact: Alexander Mzhelsky, +7 985 970 9019, a.mzhelsky@kidsave.org Kidsave® is a non-profit organization working in Russia since 1999. Our programs create strong and lasting connections between children and adults, with the goal of giving orphans and young people graduating from institutions opportunities to develop the skills necessary for a successful future. ________________________

Downside Up Contact: Elena Lubovina, Tel. +7 499 367 1000, +7 499 165 5536, lubovina@downsideup.org About 2,500 children with Down syndrome are born in Russia annually. In 85% of such births, parents give their children up to

maternity homes, often following doctors’ advice. The abandoned children are sent to state institutions with no chance of ever leaving them. But there is an alternative! The children can live in their families and join early intervention and education programmes. Children with Down syndrome, no matter how different, have a vast learning potential. Downside Up invites you to help make life better for people with Down syndrome ________________________

Kitezh Contact: Katya Gurkina, +7 916 975 1603, kitezhcentre@ yandex.ru, www.kitezh.org/ en/index.php Kitezh is a network of therapeutic communities that give children from orphanages loving foster families. The aim is to create a developing environment for

Kittens to give away?

participants from Moscow and Moscow region. Open Art has developed methods which are being used in rehabilitation centres and institutions for people with learning disabilities. Open Art also organizes courses and seminars for specialists in Moscow. ________________________

the education and care of orphans and children in crisis. The first Kitezh village is in Kaluga Region, 300 km south west of Moscow, and the second village, Kitezh-Orion, is located 60 km in the same direction. ________________________

Musical Experimental Theatre ‘Open Art’

Diema’s Dream

Contact: info@metopenart. com, www.metopenart.com Open Art was created in September 2001 for people with learning disabilities. Open Art is based on a unique combination of different art forms and directions: • Music • Dramatic art • Choreography • Art Design • Poetry • Dramatic improvisation • Ethnic art The Musical Experimental Theatre Open Art is open for

Contact: +7 495 942 4003, sa5557@yandex.ru, sergey@ddfund.ru Diema’s Dream was established in 1998 to provide financial, medical, and educational support for both physically and mentally disabled children in Russia. The larger goal is to support changes in society and legislation in order to create social and medical support programs, which would allow parents to raise their children at home rather than living in institutions. ________________________

www.Mosco

ise Advert at for free

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Community Services List of Charities Moscow Animals

Contact: info@ moscowanimals.org, www. moscowanimals.org Moscow Animals – devoted to the welfare of homeless animals. To adopt a dog or cat or if you would like to help local animal shelters by making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit the Moscow Animal Website or email. ________________________

United Way

organizations in Moscow. It is a registered Russian charitable organization and an established 501(c)3 nonprofit in the United States that addresses poverty and hunger, and provides medical care and education for Moscow’s poor, including women, children, families, pensioners, economic migrants, and refugees. ________________________

Big Brothers Big Sisters

Contact: + 7 (495) 780 9718, info@unitedway.ru The Fund supports charities offering programs aimed to meet the social needs of the following sections of society: • children at risk • disabled (children and adults) • refugees and homeless • elderly people Our mission is to foster responsible philanthropy in Russia by supporting local charity programs aimed at solving the most critical problems. The Fund is a permanent source of financing for efficient charitable organizations. Charities receiving funding have to demonstrate financial transparency to the highest possible degree. In turn, we guarantee to the donors full adherence by the foundation to Russian legislature and provide full financial and activity reports. ________________________

Contact: +7 (495) 500 40 42, www.nastavniki.org/ru Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia is a part of Big Brothers Big Sisters International, one of the most efficient mentoring programs for children. In Moscow BBBS helps children living in institutional care (orphanages) and disadvantaged children. A volunteer becomes a Big Brother or a Big Sister to a child, visits him or her once a week for at least one year. Studies show that children who have a mentor have higher self-esteem, are more stable emotionally, have better motivation to study and show more initiative. Currently there are 162 matches in Moscow. Please keep in mind that you need a good knowledge of Russian to become a Big Brother or Big Sister because the children don’t speak English very well. ________________________

MPC Social Services

Nastenka

Web Site: www.mpcss.org

MPC Social Services is one of the longest serving charitable

Contact: +7 (495) 980-5377, +7 (495) 585-41-01, www.nastenka.ru The charitable foundation

helping children with cancer ‘Nastenka’ was founded in 2002. The main objective of the foundation isto increase the quality of diagnostics and treatment of children with oncological diseases, as well as to revive the tradition of charity in Russia. For 11 years, the foundation has helped thousands of sick children and purchased large number of expensive modern medical equipment for a hospital: two ventilators, an x-ray machine, a dialysis machine, blood separator and much more. ________________________

To Russia With Love

Contact: www. torussiawithlove.ie The very best of institutions, orphanages, large childrens homes, are likely to harm children and leave them ill prepared for life in the outside world. Ideally, all of these institutions should be phased out as soon as possible by means of extended family support, fostering, the provision of small family units, and lastly, adoption. However due to the number of children in State care in Russia, our immediate goal is to secure for each child, a long term stable solution whilst working side by side with the local administration. To Russia With Love is privileged to be allowed act as a guardian to many children without parents, who live in these very institutions. We work to build children’s self confidence, assist them to reach their full

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potential to become strong adults, successful parents, thus breaking the cycle of abandonment and in turn go forward as role models in society. ________________________

To Children With Love www.tochildrenwithlove.ru/en To Children with Love’ or ‘Детям с Любовью’ was founded in 2009 to focus on fundraising in Russia, in the belief that the best and the most sustainable initiatives should and can emerge locally. With a board composed of Moscowbased trustees, a celebrity patron and a growing base of corporate sponsors, the charity has, since 2009, worked hard to establish itself as a unique entity in the world of Russian children’s charities. ________________________

BIG Change Charity

Contact: http://bigchange.ru/ en/about/. Or call Big Change at +7 - (499) 317-44-44 BIG Change Charity is a Moscow charity that provides individualized education and training in life skills to teens and young adults who have lived for years in orphanages. Big Change helps their students: - prepare for vocational school or university - choose a vocation and find a job - broaden horizons, interests, relationships - become productive members of society - live full and independent lives.

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Community Services Getting to Moscow’s Airports

taxi if you arrive during the night. Leaving your car in the longstay car park costs 600-700 roubles a day depending on the season, although information on the airport’s site is not clear on this score.

Vnukova Airport http://www.vnukovo.ru/eng/ 8 (495) 937-55-55 Getting there: 1. By airport bus from Yugo Zapadnaya Metro. You need bus 611, 611с or 611ф, (611f) (express). You need to listen carefully to the pre-recorded stop announcements. Your stop is Airport Vnukovo. Busses run every 10 minutes or so the journey to the airport takes about 30 minutes. You can also get a ‘marshrutka’, (mini-van taxi service) route 45 which will take you to the airport faster. Fare is 100 roubles plus 10 roubles for each piece of extra luggage.

oscow is served by three major airports: Vnukovo, Domodedovo and Sheremetyevo. You can get a taxi (fares range between 1,200 and 2,300 roubles, and generally, the service is good. The operators speak English, but the drivers may not. A taxi back can also be booked, and this saves a lot of hassle and possible agro when dealing with the taxi drivers at arrivals. All 3 airports are now served by ‘Aeroexpress’ shuttle trains. The service is good but not 24 hours a day. The three airports are: Sheremetyevo Airport http://www.svo.aero/en/ +7 495 578 6565 + 8 800 100 6565 + 7 495 956 4666 for flight information Sheremetyevo has become much more accessible thanks to the opening of the Aeroexpress from Byelorusskaya Station. Aeroexpress costs 320 roubles and they leave every half an from 05:30-00:30. Long term parking costs 250 roubles a day according to the airport web site. If you are getting a taxi or driving your own car there during the day it is advisable to leave a minimum of two hours to get there from the centre.

2. From Metro Oktyabrskaya (the Circle Line) (subway) Route 705m ‘marshrutka’ runs between Metro Oktyabrskaya (Circle Line) and the Vnukovo airport. They take 35-40 minutes, although Moscow traffic is Moscow traffic, so at peak time leave at least an hour. Fare is 130 roubles plus another RUB 10 for every extra item of baggage. 3. By Aeroexpress Train From Metro Kievskaya (Metro) (exit to Kievsky Train Station). Once out on the Train Station forecourt, go round the corner of the Station terminal building and a few yards down on your left-hand side you will see the entrance portico of the Vnukovo Aeroexpress Terminal. Tickets cost 320 roubles for standard fare, and can be bought on line, if you read Russian. The journey takes 40 minutes.

Domodedovo Airport http://www.domodedovo.ru +7 495 720 6666 for flight information Getting there: The Aeroexpress train departs from the left hand side of Paveltskaya station. Single journey tickets come as flimsy paper receipts with bar codes in them. Don’t lose your ticket as you need it to get out of the station at the airport. Return tickets come as plastic cards. Tickets cost from 320 roubles. The journey takes 40-50 minutes, and they run reliably and regularly, every half an hour from 06:00-24:00. On the way home, this is a convenient way to beat the taxi mobs, however there is only the

Essential Information

Emergency Phone Numbers

Fire fighters 01 Police 02 Ambulance 03 Emergency Gas Service 04 Intercity phone calls 07 Information 09 Time (automatic clock) 100 Emergency rescue service 937-9911 _________________________________

Medical help

International SOS (The Moscow Clinic, 24 hour service to its clients)

+7 495 937 6477

American Medical Centers (24 hours service) +7 495 933 7700

European Medical Center (French, British and American experts) +7 (495) 933 66 55

International crisis Line Tel: +7 926 1133373 This is a free English-speaking telephone counseling service for expatriates in distress. Available 08:00-23:00 daily. In case you ever have to call the fire fighters, the police, or an ambulance, make sure that all family members can correctly pronounce your complete address in Russian. Post a piece of paper with your full address details and phone numbers in Russian and translation into your native language on the wall next to your phone. Also make sure that your children know how to reach you or another adult you trust in case they get lost or have an emergency. Note that in Russia there is difference between the police (militsiya) and the traffic police (GIBDD, formerly GAI). The police are not responsible for regulating traffic or handling car accidents, and the traffic police do not handle criminal offences that are unrelated to traffic.

Pharmacies (Apteki)

Finding a pharmacy in Moscow is definitely not a problem. In fact, quite a number of them are open 24/7. The prices vary from one pharmacy to another, but the difference is not very significant.

What to do if you lose your passport

Your first step should be to contact the nearest consular department for your country of origin. You will also have to go to a police station in order to obtain an official form confirming the loss or theft of your travel documents. We recommend, however, that you contact your embassy or consulate first, as they may be able to help non-Russian speakers with the necessary paperwork. In the case of a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lost passport, both parents must appear with the child. Once you have a new passport, take it, along with your plane ticket (if you do not have a return ticket, you will have to buy one before you are issued a new visa) and the police form to the company that issued your visa support documents. If you have a copy of your lost visa, you should also provide it. If the agency refuses to help you (although it is their legal obligation to do so), then your consulate should tell you what to do.

Important:

For ease of processing we recommend that the police report states that your documents were lost, not stolen.

Paying for your mobile telephone at a terminal There are many different makes and models of pay machines which handle mobile phone payments in use in Moscow, however most of them work in the same way.

Step 1.

Identify the service you need: The first ‘home’ screen will ask you what kind of services you want. The Russian words: ‘ОПЛАТА УСЛУГ’ (payment for services) are what you want.

Step 2.

Identify the service you want: You will be presented by an array of services which indicate the various services which the company operating the terminal has signed up for. Fortunately, to keep things simple, the logos for the most popular mobile telephone companies are displayed on the top row.

Step 3.

Having identified your mobile telephone ‘operator’ by its logo, you will then be asked to key in your telephone number. Having done this, you hit the button which says ‘ВПЕРЕД’ (NEXT). On most terminals this is coloured orange, but make sure you don’t inadvertently press any other buttons which may download various entertainment programmes onto your phone.

Step 4.

Pay. You insert notes into the machine and the amount you have paid comes up on screen minus commission. You then hit the button: ОПЛАТИТЬ (PAY). That’s it!

Essential Information What do the numbers on the red number plates mean? They are Russian Diplomatic codes signifying countries. All vehicles registered with foreign embassies have to use them. 001 - Great Britain 002 - Germany 003 - Canada 004 - USA 005 - Japan 006 - Spain 007 - France 008 - Belgium 009 - Greece 010 - Denmark 011 - Italy 012 - Luxembourg 013 - Netherlands 014 - Norway 015 - Turkey 016 - Australia 017 - Austria 018 - Algeria 019 - Egypt 020 - Rwanda* 021 - Argentina 022 - Afghanistan 023 - Myanmar (the former Burma) 024 - Bolivia 025 - Brazil 026 - Burundi 027 - Ghana 028 - Bangladesh 029 - Guinea 030 - Zambia 031 - Peru 032 - India 033 - Indonesia 034 - Jordan 035 - Iraq 036 - Iran 037 - Ireland 038 - Iceland 039 - Cambodia (the former Kampuchea) 040 - Kenya 041 - Cyprus 042 - Congo 043 - Costa Rica 044 - Kuwait 045 - Laos 047 - Lebanon

048 - Libya 049 - Mali 050 - Morocco 051 - Mexico 052 - Nepal 053 - Nigeria 054 - Venezuela 055 - New Zealand 056 - Pakistan 057 - Burkina Faso* 058 - Senegal* 059 - formerly Syria. Now code 133 is used. 060 - Somalia 061 - Sudan 062 - Sierra Leone 063 - Thailand 064 - Tanzania 065 - Tunisia 066 - Uganda 067 - Uruguay 068 - Philippines 069 - Finland 070 - Sri Lanka 071 - Chad 072 - Switzerland 073 - Sweden 074 - Ecuador 075 - Ethiopia 076 - Angola 077 - Democratic Republic of Congo (the former Republic Zaire) 078 - Colombia 079 - Cameroon 080 - Guinea-Bissau 081 - Portugal 082 - Bulgaria 083 - Hungary 084 - Vietnam 086 - Poland 087 - Korean People’s Democratic Republic (North Korea) 088 - Cuba 089 - Mongolia 090 - China 091 - Romania

092 - formerly Czechoslovakia (nowadays Czech Republic (148) and Slovakia (149)) 093 - Serbia 094 - Benin 095 - Gabon 096 - Guyana* 097 - Mauritania 098 - Madagascar* 099 - Malaysia 100 - Niger* 101 - Singapore 102 - Togo* 103 - Central African Republic (code 106 used earlier) 104 - Jamaica* 105 - Yemen 106 - formerly Central African Republic. Now code 103 is used. 107 - Palestine 108 - Nicaragua 109 - Mozambique 110 - Equatorial Guinea 111 - Sovereign Military Order of Malta (earlier code 111 belonged to Council for Mutual Economic Assistance (Comecon)) 112 - Malta 113 - Cape Verde 115 - Zimbabwe 116 - United Arab Emirates 117 - Côte d’Ivoire* 118 - Namibia 119 - formerly Republic of South Africa. Now code 137 is used. 120 - Oman 121 - Qatar 122 - formerly Arab League. Now code 503 is used 123 - formerly Liechtenstein 124 - South Korea 125 - Chile 126 - Panama (earlier code 126 belonged to UNESCO; see code 512)

127 - Israel 128 - FYR Macedonia (earlier code 128 belonged to EU) 129 - Albania 130 - formerly international organizations 131 - Holy See (Vatican) 132 - Lithuania 133 - Syria (code 059 used earlier) 134 - Estonia 135 - Latvia 136 - Bahrain 137 - Republic of South Africa (code 119 used earlier) 138 - Armenia 139 - formerly Georgia. Now code 158 is used. 140 - Saudi Arabia 141 - Slovenia 142 - Uzbekistan 143 - Kyrgyzstan 144 - Croatia 145 - Azerbaijan 146 - Ukraine 147 - Moldova 148 - Czech Republic 149 - Slovakia 150 - Belarus 151 - Tajikistan 152 - Turkmenistan 153 - Kazakhstan 154 - Guatemala 155 - Bosnia and Herzegovina 156 - Eritrea 157 - Paraguay* 158 - Georgia (code 139 used earlier) 159 - Brunei-Darussalam 160 - Gambia 161 - Vietnam 162 - Mauritius 163 - Dominican Republic 164 - Montenegro 165 - South Ossetia 166 - Abkhazia 167 - Djibouti

WORLD CLASS EDUCATION AS A DOORWAY TO THE FUTURE • • • • •

High quality British style education for pupils aged 2 to 18 years Pleasant, green eld locations in Krylatskoe and Rosinka UK qualied and experienced teachers School bus and lunch service provided Pupils will be leaving our 6th Form to enter top universities of their choice from September 2016

The International School of Moscow is recognised as an excellent school by the UK Independent School Inspectorate commenting: “The quality of school is excellent.” “The school fully meets its aims of providing pupils of all its nationalities with the motivation to explore the extent of their capabilities in a happy, secure environment surrounding by a strong moral framework. Pupils receive an excellent educational experience. They are well educated and make strong progress.”

For More Information: +7 (499) 922 44 00