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YOUR magazine
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No.1 NOVEMBER 2012
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n o i t a m s r o s inf
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and happenings
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INDEX Community:
8. Maria’s Children 6. First Charity Clay Shoot 9. The Taganka Children’s Fund 10. List of Charities 12. De Tulpen 14. Auski Plunge 15. Duck Nation Expat Night 19 Moscow International Choir
Social Movers
16. Chiara Pascarella, Chris Helmbrecht, Don Craig, Elena Berdichevski, Olga Golov
Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants 57. Listings
Other Stuff
78. Jay Close 80. Artificial Intelligence
Nightclubs
82. Hungry Duck Opening
Business Insights 20. David Morley
Property
23. Dacha land in Tula
Hole in the Wall 84. Pelmennaya on Ul. Krasina
Travel 85. Istanbul
Business Clubs/Associations Golf 24.Slava Konovalov, Founder/MD of the Australian Business in Europe (ABIA Russia). Don Scott, President of the British Business Club (BBC) 25. AvrilConway, the Irish Business Club.
Health
28. Lyceum Day at the Irish Embassy
Education
Dance
92. Rok’n’Rol
26. Moscow Health Matters
Embassies
98. Night Flight Open 90. Nakhabino 2012 Highlights
Art
94. Konstantin Korovin 96. Moscow Nights
30. School News: EIS appointments, Kingston university alumni meeting 32. Tottenham Hotspur coaching at ISM
Back To the Past 34. Arrival, 1989
Ask the Experts
36. Andrew Bartlett, Farringdon Group
Bits and Pieces
37. New Radio Station for Foreigners
Moscow Museums 38. The Vodka Museum 42. Museum of Soviet Aircraft
Shagaya Po Mosckvye 44. Gorky Park 47. Ostozhenka
Barman of the Month 50. Artem
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Editor’s letter
Kim Waddoup,
John Harrison,
publisher: kim@aigroup.ru
editor: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
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New Moscow Taxi Slujba 918 +7 495 780 6780 www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
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Colophon Publisher:
Kim Waddoup, kim@aigroup.ru
Editor:
John Harrison, editor@moscowexpatlife.ruli
Designer:
Julia Nozdracheva, designer@moscowexpatlife.ru
Business Development:
David Morely, david@moscowexpatlife.ru
Researchers:
Anastasia Soldatova Aleksandra Markova Alena Kizimova
Administration: Alina Kurpas
Editorial Address:
Contributors:
Max Ernst, David Morely, Kim Waddoup, Peter Hainsworth, Chiara Pascarella, Don Craig, Olga Golov, Don Scott, Slava Konovalov, Avril Conway, Lucy Kenyon, Frederickovich, Andrew Bartley, Marie Katrina, Dina Magnat
3rd Frunzenskaya 5, Bldg 1, Office 1 119270 Moscow, Russia Tel +7 495 926 9695 www.MoscowExpatLife.ru info@moscowexpatlife.ru All rights reserved Printed by Blitzprint. Moscow representative office: 127051,Moscow, Petrovsky Boulevard, Dom 10
Moscow expat Life occasionally uses material we believe has been placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim ownership of something we have published, we will be pleased to make a proper acknowledgement.
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Have You Noticed?
Have
You Noticed? Have you noticed that the number of annoying Migalki (flashing blue lights) seem to have reduced. When was the last time you got forced to swerve out of the way by a bully on wheels on Moscow’s road? Have you noticed that Moscow’s roads have been invaded by an army of cameras? Probably not, because very few have warning signs. Be this as it may, Moscow drivers have become noticeably more courteous over the past few months, except when it comes to parking which is still very cavalier.
That there are hundreds of new expats here? Most of them are younger than their predecessors (thank goodness) and don’t necessarily frequent the same sort of bars/hang outs that their older peers have helped establish. The Anglophone community has never been the only community of foreigners here; now there seem to be more and more central and northern Europeans. Bus lanes! Are they real? Are they working? So many roads were resurfaced this summer. The bus lanes were repainted on most of them but most of the signs remain covered up. As a result, drivers do not know if it is OK to drive down them or not. Most are prepared to take the risk and do. If you have noticed anything interesting about living in Moscow, please send a short text to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
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Community
First Charity Clay Pigeon
Shoot in
Russia Photos by Dina Magnat
In
September the Moscow based charity Step Up organised a clay pigeon shoot at the Fox Lodge Shooting Club, near the village of Iksha, north of Moscow. In total just under 100 people participated, sixty of which competed in the tournament. Around two thirds were expats, who mostly represented the companies who sponsored the event, including Ernst & Young, Linklaters, TNK-BP, PwC, PROSTO Media and the Russian Industrialist Magazine. Vitalij Farafonov, a member of the Board of Governors of Step Up Orphan Community Centre explained why the shoot was organised: “Step Up, works with people who leave orphanages, by helping to integrate them into society, and overcoming the negatives of an institutionalised past. The Charity has over ten years’ experience, but we have only been an independent organisation for just over two years, so we have had to do a lot of fundraising to secure survival. We wanted to organise an annual fundraising event and saw that there are a lot of charity balls and golf tournaments in Moscow, so we decided to do something different. I went clay pigeon shooting with my father-in-law in the UK some time ago, and found out that charity clay pigeon shoots have been around for a long time there, but in Russia, this is something that nobody knows about. So that was how the idea for the shoot was born.”
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Community
The
event raised $25,000 after costs, which is a significant amount of money for Step Up. This money will be kept as a reserve to secure future sustainability of the Charity. “For example if any of our donors decide not to give money, then we won’t have to close our doors, we will have some sort of backup to be able to continue,” explained Vitalij.
Step Up
plan to make the clay pigeon shoot an annual event and hope to make next year’s event bigger and better. It is encouraging to see a charity like this adopt novel ways to raise money where participants can thoroughly enjoy themselves doing something that perhaps they have never done before. Vitalij Farafonov can be contacted on vitalij@vverh.su Step Up is a registered Russian charity, you can find out more about it by looking at their web site: www.vverh.su (currently available in Russian only).The website of the Annual Charity Clay Shoot is www.clayshoot.ru
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Community
Maria’s Children Art Rehabilitation Center
, seyeva hildren i l e Y a i C Mar Maria’s r o t c e Dir
We
are public organization, founded in Moscow in 1997. We work with orphans and children with special needs, trying to close the chasm between children raised in families and those in state institutions. We want to help these children develop their creative abilities, choose a profession, gain everyday life skills, cultivate kindness, and instill in them a desire to help others. We aspire to work on the problems these children face with mainstream public life, bringing to light the obstacles and social hurdles that they face. In our studio, children participate in art activities such as painting, ceramics, sewing and other crafts. We play at clowns and theater games. The children also have lessons in foreign languages, music, cooking, and the chance to see a social teacher and psychologist. Every winter and summer we run an adaptive art camp outside of Moscow, where children gain life skills and understand what it means to be part of a family. We work with children in Beslan; taking our master-class, workshops and performances to them, and bringing Beslan children to our camp programs. Art works created by our children have been included in many exhibitions in Russia and abroad; bringing public recognition to young artists and attracting attention to our work. If what we do stirs something inside of you, and you would like to help us somehow, please don’t ignore that feeling!! We depend so much on financial donations and support from people. Please visit our web-site: www. mariaschildren.ru or call +7 495 692-4870
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Community
Taganka Children’s
Fund: Helping children
in need for as long as it takes...
Tatiana Troitsk aya
Founded by a local community back in 1991 when Russia was facing the severest financial crisis after the fall of the Soviet Union, the Taganka children’s fund (TCF) is a grassroots charity which supports and speaks out for Moscow’s vulnerable children and young people. Helping over 700 families with special needs (including single-parent families, large families in need, families with disabled children and parents), TCF is now providing a range of high-quality services to them to bring in a lasting positive change to their lives. Tucked away in the cosy narrow streets of one of the oldest districts of Moscow, the charity believes in one simple idea behind its work: there is no better place for a child than a family. That’s why TCF focuses on an all-round support for families in need, be it material or psychological, educational or rehabilitation.
A professional team of 20 people is united by a desire to help children and families in need and provide warm and caring advice to everyone who calls for help. Supported by a network of enthusiastic volunteers and loyal friends and donors, TCF continues its work in Moscow to help those who might not be the most visible part of the population of one of the most expensive cities in the world. But these people are still there and still need help in order to integrate into the society and to become its active and valuable members. If you would like to know more about TCF’s works, volunteer or make a donation, please get in touch with Tatiana Troitskaya, TCF’s chairwoman, at the details provided below: Address: building 2, 10, Bolshoy Rogozhsky pereulok, 109147, Moscow Tel/fax: +7 (495) 911-74-49 E-mail: tcf@akado.ru www.charity-tcf.ru
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Community
List of Charities Below is an incomplete list of Charities operating in Moscow which foreigners are known to be involved with. If you wish you charity to be listed in future issues, please write to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru Downside Up
United Way
About 2500 children with Down syndrome are born in Russia annually. In 85% of such births, parents give their children up to maternity homes, often following doctors’ advice. The abandoned children are sent to state institution with no chance of ever leaving them. But there is an alternative! The children can live in their families and join early intervention and education programmes. They develop and learn under a guidance of special education professionals, and they can go on learning at pre-schools and schools. Children with Down syndrome, no matter how different, have a vast learning potential. HOW MANY OF US KNOW THIS? In addition to the void of social welfare and educational opportunities in Russia, there are a great many myths and wrong stereotypes about the nature and consequences of Down syndrome. The term “Down syndrome” is often used as a derogatory swear-word. Downside Up invites mass media to work together for a better life for people with Down syndrome
The Fund supports programs aimed to meet the social needs of the following sections of society: t DIJMESFO BU SJTL t EJTBCMFE DIJMESFO BOE BEVMUT
t SFGVHFFT BOE IPNFMFTT t FMEFSMZ QFPQMF Mission Fostering responsible philanthropy in Russia by supporting local charity programs aimed at solving the most critical problems. Principles of work Stability The Fund is a permanent source of financing for efficient charitable organizations. Expert approach Organizations to be funded are selected on the basis of a thorough analysis of program activities and a financial audit. In the course of project implementation the Fund carries out regular checks of project related and financial activities of the supported charities. Cooperation and support Assistance is provided to the supported charities to help increase their professional level in various fields of activities. Exposure and transparency Charities receiving funding have to demonstrate financial transparency to the highest possible degree. In turn, we guarantee to the donors full adherence by the foundation to Russian legislature and provide full financial and activity reports. Professionalism The charity understands clearly its tasks and aims, and has all the necessary knowledge and skills to achieve them.
Elena Lubovina Downside Up 14A Parkovaya Str., Moscow, 105043 Russia Tel. +7 499 367 1000; +7 499 165 5536 lubovina@downsideup.org
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14 Nizhnyaya Str., Bldg. 1, office 5, Moscow, 125040 Tel./Fax: + 7 (495) 780-97-18 E-mail: info@unitedway.ru
Community Diema’s Dream КитоМ (Kitezh) Kitezh is a network of therapeutic communities that give children from orphanages loving foster families. The aim is to create a developing environment for the education and care of orphans and children in crisis. The first Kitezh village is in Kaluga Region, 300km south west of Moscow, and the second village, Kitezh-Orion, is located 60 Km in the same direction. Family love, beautiful surroundings and an emphasis on individualized education all help children to heal the scars of early traumas, and build the personal, academic and vocational skills to become active contributing members of society. Our objectives: 1. Providing orphans with a foster family, a high quality education, and creating the necessary conditions for personal development. 2. Psychological and educational support for each foster family; uniting foster families in a holistic pedagogical complex for the more effective resolution of questions relating to raising children. 3. Consultation and education for foster parents and social workers. Contact: Kitezh Centre representative Katya Gurkina: +7 916 975 16 03 kitezhcentre@yandex.ru http://www.kitezh.org/en/index.php
Moscow Animals Email: info@moscowanimals.org. Moscow Animals - devoted to the welfare of homeless animals To adopt a dog or cat or if you would like to help local animal shelters by making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit the Moscow Animal Website or e-mail.
Diema’s Dream was established in 1998 to provide financial, medical, and educational support for both physically and mentally disabled children in Russia. The larger goal is to support changes in society and legislation in order to create social and medical support programs, which would allow parents to raise their children at home rather than living in institutions. Who We Support t $IBSJUZ )PVTF B 3VTTJBO OPO HPWFSONFOUBM PSganization (NGO) in Moscow. Charity House is the first and only one of its kind in Russia. The Moscow City government considers their work with disabled orphans to be a model for orphanage reform. Unfortunately, the lack of funding has made it impossible for the government to apply the Charity House standards of child care to other orphanages t "TTPDJBUJPO PG %PXO T 4ZOESPNF "%4 QSPgram in Moscow. Academician Bochvar Street, 10A Moscow Russia 123098 International: 011-7-495-942-4003 Email: sa5557@yandex.ru Email: sergey@ddfund.ru
Musical Experimental Theatre ‘Open Art’ Open Art was created in September 2001 for people with learning disabilities. Open Art is based on a unique combination of different art forms and directions: t .VTJD t %SBNBUJD BSU t $IPSFPHSBQIZ t "SU %FTJHO t 1PFUSZ t %SBNBUJD JNQSPWJTBUJPO t &UIOJD BSU The Musical Experimental Theatre Open Art is open for participants from Moscow and Moscow region. MET Open Art has developed methods which are being used in rehabilitation centres and institutions for people with learning disabilities, and organized courses and seminars for specialists in Moscow. Email: info@metopenart.com http://metopenart.com/
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Community
De Tulpen
ML wanted to find out more about non-English speaking women’s groups, and the first organisation to meet was the Dutch Women’s Association, now called De Tulpen (The Tulips). We met Mariette Stijnen in the de Nachtwacht café at Patriashy Prudi. On the wall is a reproduction of Rembrandt’s The Night Watch. How did you come to be working with De Tulpen? “I came here in January with my children to join my husband who was already here. I have been an expat for 12 years. When I arrived, somebody asked me: ‘will you be joining De Tulpen?’ I didn’t know what she was talking about, so I found out what the Tulips are all about and went to one of their coffee mornings here. I met several Dutch ladies and I thought the group was nice, but it was only coffee mornings they did, and I thought that was a bit boring. Then the lady who was organising the group announced she was leaving, and the group started looking for another organiser. By that time I already had some friends in Moscow, and they said that this is maybe something that would suit you. I thought that maybe I might be able to spice things up a bit.”
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Community What is the most difficult thing for people just arriving from The Netherlands?
What sort of things are you doing now with De Tulpen? “So we started organising a whole variety of different events, and not just during the day for people who don’t work. Our membership has grown from 42 to 65 members now. We are linked with the Dutch Club, but basically we do our own thing.” “The Main goal of the Tulips is to provide a social platform for the Dutch speaking ladies in Moscow, do things of interest together and have fun! When you are abroad, one’s own culture becomes so much more important. Things like mussle-eating, for example, which is very popular back home at this time of the year. More people have started to come; we just had a meeting when 18 women came, and some of them work. A lot of Flemish people asked if they can join us, which is nice. Some Russian ladies who are married to Dutch speakers also join us now. Next month we are going to have an Arts meeting, as some women are making jewellery, also a walk around Serebryany Bor because one of the members lives there. Members themselves are suggesting ideas, so every month we have something different coming up.” “A lot of Dutch people live out near the schools, in Rosinka for example. Meeting up there is not always the best idea because people who live in other parts of Moscow can’t get there very easily. But I live in downtown Moscow, and I have created my own network here, and I find this very useful. Now when we organise something for De Tulpen, it is usually held in the city.”
“There are problems with finding education for children, but there is a Dutch school which operates on an after-school basis, offering classes in Dutch at ISM and AAS. The Dutch school has now I think 56 children, and it is growing. They follow an official programme approved by the Dutch government and have a minimum amount of contact hours, so sometimes the children attend classes on Saturdays as well.”
How do you advertise? “We do have links on the embassy site, on the Dutch Club. So if any new arrivals want to find out about us, they can. If anybody wants to connect with us, please find us on the Dutch Cub web site and write to me. If people want to go and visit museums, they can do that one their own. But if they want to speak their mother tongue with other people here in Moscow, then here we are.” http://www.nlclubmoskou.nl
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Community 2013 Cold Plunge fo r the Homeless – hosted by Auski, the Australia/New Zealand social group in Moscow On February 2nd, 2013 Auski will be hosting the 3rd annual Cold Plunge for the Homeless. On that day the Australian and New Zealand community will come together with other expats to swim in Moscow’s icy river. In the past we’ve had swimmers from South Africa, India, Europe, Mexico, the UK, the US, Canada, as well as Australia–and a number of Russians too! While this is only the third year we are holding this event, it is already a favourite fixture on the Moscow expat calendar. We began with approximately 40 swimmers in 2011 and about 80 in 2012. This time we are hoping that more than 100 people will take the plunge.
Proceeds for this event will go to the homeless charities supported by the International Women’s Club of Moscow, which provide food, clothing, housing and medical assistance to the destitute in the city. In 2012 we raised $12,000. We have set a goal of $15,000 for 2013. The entry fee is R2500. But you don’t have to stop there. We encourage you to get your family and friends and work colleagues to sponsor you. Whether they can offer R100 or R1000–it all goes to a great cause. At our after-party there will be prizes and you’ll be presented with a certificate proving that you did the Cold Plunge for the Homeless 2013. It is an unforgettable way to celebrate Australia Day and Waitangi Day. While our compatriots at home are taking to the beach and firing up the barbecue, we’ll be taking part of this most Russian of traditions! So please join us for the fun. Registration opens on November 1st, 2012 Please email auskicoldplunge@gmail.com to register
e for participating in th Essential Information r the Homeless 2013 Cold Plunge fo Swimming in the icy river in the depths of a Russian winter is a time honoured tradition that you will never forget. You will certainly feel colder than you’ve ever felt before. But it will be one of the best things you ever do in Russia! While some people opt to ‘swim’, most people only spend 20-30 seconds in the water. There are a few things you can do to make it easier: - warm up before hand, even work up a sweat if you like–a quick run around the pond or doing some starjumps means you’ll look forward to that chilly water
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- do not get undressed until you’ve been told to do so, we ‘plunge’ in groups to make sure people aren’t waiting too long in the cold - it is advisable to wear thongs, flip flops, swimming/diving shoes while you are waiting and even when you are swimming; standing and walking on ice in bare feet is not advisable - the less you wear to swim the better as it’s easier to change clothing when you’re done - try not to get your hair wet, especially women, because there are no drying facilities - have a towel and a blanket ready for when you come out and change right away - bring an extra layer of clothes to put on after the swim, you will warm up more quickly - a shot of vodka or other hard liquor after the fact will help to warm you up This really is a great community event and we urge you to come and join the fun. Medical assistance will be on hand should anyone run into trouble. It is at your own cost
Community
The DUCK NATION!
@ Hungry Duck Bar & Grill Hello Comrades! The Hungry Duck Bar & Grill is honoured to announce the founding of the DUCK NATION! What is the DUCK NATION? This monthly assembly is specially organized as a social and networking event for the international community in Moscow. Does this mean it is ONLY for foreigners? Of course NOT. The assembly is for EVERYONE in Moscow interacting in one way or another with the local international community. So, if you’re Russian or a foreigner, you are ALL citizens of the DUCK NATION. Our slogan: “DUCKS of all Nations, UNITE!” We’re not big on “formal” at the Hungry Duck, so the event is designed to be relaxed and fun. It starts at 19:00 on the first Wednesday of each month. Each citizen has a choice from a delicious three-course menu: - fresh summer salad, - then fish (grilled salmon with rice), or pas-
ta (fettuccine with chicken) or grill (pork demiglace with roasted potatoes), - then dessert (fresh fruits or ice-cream), - plus your choice of three (3) alcoholic drinks (special drinks menu includes: wine, beer and select cocktails) or six (6) non-alcoholic. All for ONLY 890 RUB per person! From 21:00 we’ll host LIVE music and then a DJ starting at 22:00 with your favourite modern and retro hits. In addition, every Wednesday night we have a special offer: for 500 RUB, Stari Melnik beer, UNLIMITED, all night! So, we are waiting and you are WELCOME! It’s the middle of the week, a perfect time for a bit of networking, socializing with your fellow DUCK NATION comrades. GO NUTS!
is a media sponsor of Duck Nation
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Social Movers
Olga Golovkina What is your role in Moscow’s social scene? I am quite involved in all kinds of international social and business events in Moscow because I really like the international spirit and meeting people from all over the world. I lived for many years in France where I met many people from everywhere and it was there that I think I became an international person! In 2011 I decided to organize occasional international after-work networking parties on the French theme in Moscow. At first my events were planned exclusively for the French community. They eventually became quite popular and appreciated by all the expat community and Russians! My parties on the French theme are first of all for Moscow’s French-speaking community but not only: these are very good occasions for all cool international people and Russians in Moscow to have a nice evening, have fun and meet great people for business networking or for friendship! French-style parties usually take place in different bars and restaurants where I know the owners and where we are able to propose an open bar menu with food and drinks and a party atmosphere all inclusive! If you have just arrived to Moscow you have a lot of things to discover here and it will be a very new experience in terms of Russian culture, the way of doing business, the mentality etc... I really hope that you are able to keep an open mind and get to spend time not only with your colleagues and compatriots but branch out and try to really discover the Russian way of living! And of course come to my parties to socialize and have fun! Feel free to invite your friends/ colleagues to join these events by sending me a mail on: olytta@gmail.com
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Social Movers Elena Berdichevski What is your target audience? When I started my events three and a half years ago, they were mainly for expat guys and Russian girls. This became boring and banal pretty fast. So now we are a good mix of Russian and foreign yuppies of all shapes and forms, a healthy metropolitan mix of young active successful guys and girls who are craving new experiences in life. What is your role in Moscow’s social scene? I am a born and raised Muscovite. Plus I am a journalist and an event producer. My role in life is to do good to people in Moscow or anywhere else I go. I like to entertain. So, I guess, entertaining people and sharing with them what I know about Moscow’s cultural and party scene is my role. From the business point of view, I help venues get recognized and become more lucrative.
In your opinion what are the greatest challenges facing expats in Moscow? This is a tricky question. I would like to be diplomatic about it but if you look at the big picture; there are 3 categories of expats with their own problems: single men, single women and families. Single expat men: will never be able to make as much money as some of their Russian pals; buy a Bentley and a big house on Lake Como. They despise this. Single expat women: will never look like some of their Russian girlfriends—they suffer from a lack of romance and sex. Expat families: just can’t understand the algorithm of Moscow’s everyday life starting with crazy traffic, insane prices, rude people, zero service, dirt and smoke, ending with visa problems, skinny secretaries walking around in skimpy clothes in their husbands’ offices, sealing deals at the Banya, and “you never know what happens next” type of thing. But that’s the beauty of Moscow—you hate it and you love it, you never know what will happen next!
What is your role in Moscow’s social scene? I like to find interesting places that have the potential to make expats and Russians feel at home. I help develop them by generating a good atmosphere by providing good service along with good value. In my eyes, my role is to look from the outside in and bring a consumer’s perspective to a project in order to provide a better understanding of what people are looking for, and honestly that is not an easy task. You have to dedicate yourself to taking that extra step, listen to what people are saying and act on it. What is your target audience? Honestly, anyone that is looking for a good time. My audience is looking for everything from sports, good music, and those much needed places where you can have a great meal in a relaxing atmosphere. Primarily that is why I like having multiple venues to promote; it’s a great pleasure to be able to work with so many places because everyone has different tastes and preferences regarding their favourite type of venue.
Don Craig
In your opinion what are the greatest challenges facing expats in Moscow? Still the language, but this is not as bad as it used to be. For tourists I highly recommend a visit. There is so much history and culture revolving around one of the world’s largest cities, it truly has a style of its own. For the expat working class there are the issues of work permits and visas, but other than that I think Moscow has and is evolving into an even greater city than it has ever been.
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Social Movers Chris Helmbrecht What is your target audience? My target audiences are different. We have events (XING) with middle class managers (50/50 Russian/Foreigners). We also run high class events for a smaller selected audience in the city’s top venues, like So-Ho Rooms, Krysha Mira or GQ Bar. Besides all that, we do ‘open for everyone’ parties, which are just pure fun. What is your role in Moscow’s social scene? I’m German and been living in Moscow for 9 years. Since the beginning I have been organizing business network events and also parties for the last 6 years. Today we are running various monthly events, like the bi-weekly XING meeting, the monthly ASMALLWORLD Soiree and our own weekly parties with We Party! We have a following of about 5000 people, plus the reach through social networks like ASW and Facebook.
In your opinion what are the greatest challenges facing expats in Moscow? When you come to Moscow for the first time you are filled with stereotypes and horror stories about Russia and Russians. Most of it is not true. Moscow looks European, is geographically in Europe and the people look European. Having said that, the business culture is pretty different. Let me put it like this. Living here and running a business is OK at first, despite of the bureaucracy. Then you run full force against an invisible wall and you’re lying on the ground with some broken bones. There are only two choices. Give up or get up and dust off. Slowly you’ll recover and you keep running again, until you hit the next unexpected invisible wall. You learn to expect these walls and how to deal with the problems, but they tend to never go away. Anytime your business is running well and you feel it’s going well, you most certainly hit the next wall.
What is your role in Moscow’s social scene? I’m definitely a social networker, it’s probably something that comes natural being a south Italian. I have been working in Communications for 15 years, so I use this skill in personal and business life. I came to Moscow the first time 10 years ago and I started to grow up my network as usual, but what really multiplied by contacts was my work in Moscow’s nightlife scene. When Sinisha Lazarevich asked me to join him in his new project I was sceptical, but he is a nightlife guru and I could not refuse; well luxury nightlife made me a popular character on the social scene, I entered very close circles and became the ‘Italianka’ (Italian woman) of the Russian high society. In your opinion what are the greatest challenges facing expats in Moscow? People talk about language barriers, traffic jams, no loyalty from employees, everything being overpriced and winter for 9 months of the year. I think that’s all partially true, but I spoke Russian within 6 months of arriving here, I take the metro and I like winter. In my opinion, the real challenge is to have enough energy to follow the continuous evolution of the city, Moscow changes every day!
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Chiara Pascarella What is your target audience? My company DasiMenu in English has three divisions—PR Agency, Italian luxury services and nightlife—so my network develops in different directions and has different target audiences. If I have to find one common threads, I could say fashionable people, high networking individuals, top managers of companies and people who love Italian charm.
Community
The Moscow International
Choir
sworth
e Hain n n i r o C
If you enjoy singing and want to meet new people then join the Moscow International Choir. We always welcome new members and no audition is required. We are an amateur choir uniting people of all ages, professions and nationalities. Our membership changes each season with new members joining us from various countries. Whilst we have a lot of Russian members our working language is English. We rehearse on Tuesday evenings from 7-9.30pm at St Andrew’s church and add in additional rehearsals on Saturday mornings nearer to our concert dates which are usually in December and May. This season we will perform Bach’s Magnificat along with other Christmas music on the 11th and the 14th of December, at St Andrew’s church. Concerts start at 7.30pm. Profits are donated to a different charity each season chosen by choir members.
The choir has been in existence for over ten years and during this time has performed music by classical composers such as Mozart, Brahms, Britten, Rutter, Faure, Carl Orf, Vivaldi and Jenkins among others. Previous concert repertoires have included more light music such as medleys from musicals, popular songs from the USSR, American spirituals and well-known songs from around the World. We try to accommodate a variety of musical tastes. If you are interested in joining us or would like to reserve tickets for our Christmas concerts then please write to Moscow.international.choir@gmail.com
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Business Insights
Back to Farming arrison
John H
After a year’s sabbatical in England, long-time expat (although he doesn’t call himself one), David Morley is back in Moscow working to help western farmers and agricultural suppliers set up in Russia. Moscow expat Life talked to him.
rley
o David M
Coming soon!
www.MoscowExpatLife.ru sia
?
s to Ru k c a b come u o y hy did
Last year, I had one real estate disappointment too many and decided to leave Russia. In Russia, when you have a set-back you usually come back up again, anybody who has lived here through the 1990s will know what I mean, but this time I didn’t come bouncing up in the same way. So after 25 years in the country, I decided I’d had enough. Being back in Old Blighty came as quite a shock. I had missed out on Margaret Thatcher and all the changes she brought in. I felt a bit odd, although it was very nice to be able to look out of the window and see Oxfordshire countryside, which is absolutely beautiful. After a while, I realised that there was nothing particularly I could do there in terms of earning any money. So I tried to start to do things in Russia again long distance, I would send off thousands of emails, but this didn’t mean that I could make things happen in a country thousands of miles away. So there was only one thing to do: to come back.
, David
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w
Business Insights ? pWrohjaetc is your agricul t all abo
ut
tural
I am continuing an involvement with farming in Russia that started eight years ago, when I helped a Swiss Investment Fund disinvest from a farming project they set up in the Kaluga region. The farm was created to train Russian farmers. Here was a project where local farmers could actually see how things should be done. The Swiss Government decided that their usefulness had come to an end and decided to sell the farm. They didn’t want to sell it to Russians because they thought that it might go rapidly downhill, instead they wanted Swiss farmers to come in. I got involved in helping to find them. We put an advert on a Swiss farmers’ website, and we had literally hundreds of enquiries from people who were interested in what was a small project: a 450-hectare dairy farm in the Kaluga region. 35 farmers came over to have a look. The successful applicant had to have a certain amount of money, but it wasn’t very much because the Swiss were prepared to sell the farm at the cost of their investment, which at the time was 12 million roubles. We ended up selling it to three Swiss who we thought were suitable and who wanted to do it. They had to invest quite a lot to get the farm going again, and they have just started to turn a profit. They told me that if
they had known how difficult it was going to be when you miraculously sold it to us, we would probably have never have done it. The problems they had were nothing to do with farming, they were to do with the local administration, with the various inspectors, with getting building permissions, with hygiene and veterinary services and various things. But they are still there. I also got to meet British farmers who came over here. Then I heard of all sorts of people in consulting or agricultural businesses, who all said that there is a growing interest in eastwards expansion. So I thought: what a good idea! I have the business knowledge and experience to help foreign farmers avoid some of the problems that those Swiss farmers encountered. There is a lot of money going into agriculture in Russia, but it’s like everything here; there is money going into big business, but not so much into small businesses. The villages are dying. I thought that if Russian agriculture is going to get things going, they are going to need western technology and expertise, not to mention finance. Russian farmers are also looking for western consultants on contract who can help them sort things out. At the same time, there are a lot of people in Britain, and Ireland as well who are trying to find a job. A lot of family businesses don’t have anywhere for the kids to go after agricultural college.
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Business Insights ny actual Have you got a ? results as yet
So basically, we are a gateway into Russia for farmers, agricultural specialists and suppliers. We are setting up an international information network where anybody from all over the world can look into the opportunities that are available. So far, we have had a fantastic response. People from Australia, New Zealand, America, Asian countries, Denmark and other countries have contacted us wishing to do something. The equipment manufacturers are also interested in doing more. Whilst we started out thinking that we’ll just provide services for those who want to come in, such as legal services and land acquisition, now we are looking wider and signing agricultural experts up, and country managers. We are not farmers, we are just people who have experience in doing business in Russia, and marketing also, which is really important because farmers when they come over usually haven’t got a clue about how to sell their products. We organise an exchange of information between these people like a Farmers Club. But it is a business as well because we earn commission from the deals that are actually going through. One of the projects that has a very good chance is a distance learning facility for Russian farmers, to learn about management and the latest technology in their particular field. It is difficult for farmers to attend courses themselves or send people off somewhere, so e-learning could be very useful for them. So we’ve got a hell of a lot to do.
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Things are just beginning to take off, however we have had a few success stories already. For example, we have a farmer from South Carolina who wants to come over and be an organic farmer in Russia! He has never been to Russia before, he hasn’t got a clue what it’s like, however we have already found a farm in the Moscow area that wants to use his services, and it looks like they are going to start to do something. Conversely, a company approached us and asked us if we could help introduce Texas Longhorn cattle into Russia, and this is ideal because we think we will be able to get results pretty quickly.
? yWouhiccoh part of Russi
a ar ng on e
ncentra ti
ng at the We are looki h-level are holding hig d an y, tr n u co whole of various ministrations ad e th h it w s ertalk region has diff ch ea se au ec regions, b e res. One of thes d ee n l ra u lt cu ent agri ionally which is tradit , ia yk m al K is gions p populaarea. The shee g in m ar -f p ee a sh an a ed by more th lin ec d as h ia ss tion in Ru s have igenous breed d in 3 , 92 19 ce half sin vanishd 9 more are an ct n ti ex e m beco see what can sk there is to ta r u o So . g in n and the populatio se ea cr in to be done to imWe also have t. ea m e th f o quality eat proucture: the m tr as fr in e th prove e now have g and so on. W n ki ac p , g in ss h is ce Zealand whic ew N m o fr y a compan d helpoing there an g in ed st re te very in ack again. eir industry b th et g em th of ing for this kind ia ss u R in al ti The poten ge. business is hu
Property
Tula –
The Dacha alternative The Russian Dacha has its plusses and minuses. The plus being you own a place outside Moscow in the countryside, the minus being getting there and back! The Tula region is 2 ½-3 hours from Moscow on the M2, Simferopolskoye Shosse or Crimean Highway but it is far less congested than the northern or western destinations. Additional benefits are the noticeably warmer summer climate, the cleaner air, the choice of areas with unspoilt natural beauty, less people, the proximity to many Russian historical sites and outdoor pursuits. And much better soil for growing things! Land for dacha prices are starting around $300 per sotka (100 m2), compared with $3,000 for somebody’s backyard in the Moscow region, and building costs are also substantially cheaper. Undoubtedly, costs will rise quite quickly as the area develops, so there is an investment opportunity as well! For more information on property and investment in the Tula region, you can contact David Morley on +7 925 367 3241.
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Business Clubs/Associations Slava Konovalov, Founder/ Managing Director Australian Business in Europe, Russia (ABIE Russia)
Australian Business In Europe (ABIE) was founded in London in October 1975. The objective was to provide a forum for Australians working in Europe and European business people associated with Australian industry to meet regularly, get to know each other and discuss topics of mutual interest.
Don Scott, President British Business Club
I have been lucky to have lived and worked in Russia for more than 23 years as businessman and entrepreneur. I have watched Russia grow, reach great achievements and take great falls. Through these times my interest and enthusiasm for the British Business Club was born. In the mid-90’s a small
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Today, ABIE has an international membership of about 1,000 drawn mostly from Australian companies with business interests in Europe and from a wide range of European companies with reciprocal interest in Australia. Banking, insurance, finance, manufacturing and service industries are well represented, as are smaller enterprises. In 1988, ABIE expanded its presence in Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, The Netherlands and other European countries. ABIE Russia was founded by Slava Konovalov in May 2009 and is run by a Committee. ABIE hosts a range of events designed to keep members up-to-date with business, political, sports and cultural developments occurring in Australia. It also runs a social programme to
facilitate networking. ABIE hosts breakfast meetings, seminars and social gatherings and organises events and exhibitions related to Australian art and culture. Australian Ambassador Margaret Twomey commented: “People-to-people ties are a key element to success in the Russian business environment. ABIE Russia presents a platform for Australian and Russian business representatives to take advantage of the increasing bilateral momentum, to develop networks, and to strengthen people-to-people relations. I encourage you to make the most of opportunities presented by ABIE Russia and the broader ABIE network. And I look forward to meeting you at a future ABIE function.”
group of businessmen met up to talk about what could be done to support British businesses in Russia and help local communities. By 1998, this became a comfort meeting for those who had survived one of the hardest financial falls to hit anywhere. However, the British business Club continued to pull together the British business Community and assist local charities and business people. Today, the British Business Club supports more than 600 British or affiliated people and companies with regular meetings and charitable events. We have strong local contacts and help where we can, if not directly, then at least with a guiding
hand to a person, organisation or ministry. Life has changed tremendously for the British Expat over the last 20 years in Russia. This is not an easy place to do business nor find friends, and yet friendships made here are true and lasting. One thing is sure–Russia will remain a country of change. There is still a long way to go. Local language knowledge is becoming increasingly necessary, but the ability to adapt to change remains a big requirement. Russia continues to offer massive opportunities to British businesses, but it takes stamina to see them through. The BBC offers a small sanctuary of Britain to help in these times.
Business Clubs/Associations
The Irish Business
b u l C
ir
y – Cha a w n o C Avril
The members of the Irish Business Club are a mix of both Russian and Irish professional people and private individuals. I have lived in Russia for 18 years and have loved it, but it has not been without its low moments. It takes some time to understand the Russian culture and to make friends but I would say now I have made some friends for life here. Russian people are very well educated and I truly believe our role is to transfer knowledge and understanding. This is sometimes a challenge for people. Moscow as a city is very big and yet very small; it can feel like a lonely place if you are not active and out there. Sometimes the things we take for granted like shopping and driving can be very challenging here. All in all it is a super place but, for anyone who is new, the only advice I would give is ask for advice; it is always useful. We try and help in this respect as much as we can.
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Health
Moscow
Health Matters
In this first article, Lucy Kenyon SCPHN, M.Med.Sci., RGN explores the general issues around obtaining treatment and care for injury and ill-health when living overseas, focussing on the unique features of Moscow. Lucy refers to the ‘NHS.’ This is the UK’s National Health Service
Moscow Health Matters In this first article, Lucy Kenyon SCPHN, M.Med.Sci., RGN explores the general issues around obtaining treatment and care for injury and ill-health when living overseas, focussing on the unique features of Moscow. Lucy refers to the ‘NHS.’ This is the UK’s National Health Service
Background We have all heard the anecdotal horror stories about getting medical treatment in Moscow. Although some expats (myself included) have had a positive experience of private healthcare providers here, problems with the transport network mean that even ambulances with the most high-tech equipment are still not given priority by all other road users; which means that transfer to hospitals can be delayed.
Expatriate health trends Major health insurance providers have identified the most common ailments affecting expatriate families. Unsurprisingly, these present in the following categories in order of frequency: t Back pain in Moscow arises from slips, trips and falls on poor road surfaces and ice, postural and manual handling of bags and pushchairs along uneven pavements, and navigating up and down kerbs around the cars parked on them (http://www.backcare.org.uk). t Chest infections, including flu can be brought on by poor air quality, being in new sur-
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roundings and picking up unfamiliar viruses to which new arrivals have little or no resistance. t Gastro-intestinal problems are caused by unfamiliar germs and bacteria that play havoc with a person’s digestive system. t The stress of global assignments and mental health problems make you more vulnerable to illness and injury, which can affect both your health and relationships. t Moscow health services are expensive and insurance companies often limit treatment to a number of sessions.
Emergency planning and first aid t Keep a fully stocked first aid kit in your apartment and car if you have one. Keep a map of where your approved medical providers are located and how to get there by public transport and car. t Don’t buy over the counter antibiotics without consulting a doctor. t Find out what the care and treatment of a par-
Health ticular ailment would be in your home country, (http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Pages/hub.aspx).
What if my symptoms do not go away?
t If your health insurance company has an information website or helpline staffed by qualit Over 50 % of us will suffer from back pain in fied nurses; keep their number handy. our lifetime. t Moscow has a network of state pharmacies t ,FFQ NPWJOH XBMLJOH JT UIF CFTU UIJOH GPS (http://www.citypharm.ru/ ), staffed by qualified, a bad back! licensed pharmacists, which are authorised to t Change your posture and lifting habits. sell drugs prescribed by a doctor. The pharmacy t Keep a simple symptom diary if your con- chain 36.6 has been an exclusive representative
Back pain
dition lasts more than one week, which will be helpful if you need to see a doctor.
Digestive problems t 20% of us suffer from irritable bowel in any year, often triggered by gastroenteritis. t Gastric viruses are particularly aggressive in the short spring and autumn seasons in Russia, when the temperature is between 10-15C. t Drink plenty of fluids, and take salt and sugar for rehydration if you are unable to tolerate any food for more than 24 hours. t Moscow water is certified as a safe when it leaves the water distribution centre, but the pipe network means is old. You are advised to use a water filter for drinking water.
Mental health problems t Moscow winters increase the risk of seasonal affective depression (SAD) (http://www.patient. co.uk/doctor/Seasonal-Affective-Disorder%28SAD%29.htm) to 12.5%. t Use the expatriate network to find a few like-minded friends and spend more time out of doors, work in bright conditions and eat a healthy diet. t There are many books on making the most of expatriate life. I found the Robin Pascoe’s book invaluable (‘A Moveable Marriage: Relocate Your Relationship without Breaking It.’ ISBN-10: 0968676022; ISBN-13: 978-0968676028).
of Boots in Russia since 2004. t If you need to see a doctor, compile a list of questions in advance and take your partner or a trusted friend with you. Two pairs of ears are better than one. t Most importantly, don’t make decisions in a hurry.
Expert patients t If you have a chronic or recurring condition, consider becoming an expert patient (http:// www.expertpatients.co.uk/health-professionals). The aim of self-management is to enable people to manage their condition better on a daily basis. t There are a range of NHS approved organisations and even phone apps that provide information and telephone/e-support. These can help you to make informed decisions about your treatment and care.
General tips and hints t For companies: Buy a health insurance product that meets all your employees’ needs, then your employees will not be distracted from work trying to sort out how to get things done. t For employees: Before accepting an overseas assignment, check that your sponsoring employer has invested in a health scheme that covers pre-existing conditions, or you may end up requiring emergency evacuation or facing the stress of uninsured medical bills.
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Embassies
Lyceum Day at the Irish Embassy arrison
John H
Lyceum Day celebrations were held at the Embassy of Ireland on the evening of the 19th of October in great style. That evening, Irish poets Joseph Woods, John Deane, James Harpur and Ambassador McDonagh read a selection of their poetry to a receptive audience. Musical interludes were provided by the Rowsome Ensemble, an Irish traditional music group which entranced the audience with foot-stomping Irish jigs; stirring tenor singing from Mr. Alexander Mukmanov accompanied by Ms. Elena Astafieva (piano). Mr. Igor Parshin and Ms. Svetlana Voronova also performed charming piano duets. All four of these Russian musicians later performed at the fourth and final concert of the Irish Russian Chamber Music Festival on Sunday the 21st of October.
The Rowesome Ensemble
Séan Harris
Séan Harris, who told the audience that he is an architect, but he was asked by his father: ‘when are you going to get a proper job, like a musician?,’ led us on soaring, sweeping and weeping journeys from his seemingly humble looking tin flute. Ambassador McDonagh introduced the event, mentioning that Lyceum day is still an important event in the Russian calendar. He commented that he thinks the Russian and Irish soul to have something in common: an inborn spirituality. The performance by four Irish poets whose work all figure a strong element of spirituality proved that the validity of that statement. First on the bill was James Harpur who read three poems, including works from his book ‘Angels and Harvesters,’ published by Anvil Press. James’s poems have been described as being melancholy, monastic and mystical. In Moscow they didn’t sound very melancholy, but they were certainly mystical.
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Next on stage was John F. Deane. He entertained the audience with an introductory tale about his father who studied Russian out of boredom after his job on Achill island where the family was living at the time. Shyness made it very difficult for him to actually speak Russian with anybody, so it was with great pleasure that John saw his father chatting away about Gorky with a gentleman of about the same age as his father in St. Petersburg, when John was able to bring his father out to Russia for the first time a year or two ago. John described himself as being deeply concerned with the spiritual in life, and his readings were lapped up by the Russians in the audience who wanted more.
Embassies John F. Deane
Next, Joseph Woods who was introduced as being a shepherds’ shepherd, as being a man who has done a tremendous amount for poetry and poets in Ireland through his present directorship of a tremendously useful poetry society called Poetry Ireland. A poet himself, although we did not unfortunately hear any of Joseph’s work at the embassy that evening; his work seems to be about combining the external and internal world together, something that perhaps all of us at least on a subconscious level, strive to do.
Joseph read a couple of pages from his book ‘Ocean Letters,’ published by Dedalus Press. He recounted living in Mullingar, the country town of Country Westmeath, and why that particular town is vitally important in the context of Irish-Russian cultural relations. He described the passionate love affair between Anna Akhmatova, and Boris Anrep, a Russian mosaicist as well as, according to some reports, a dandy. The two lived it up in St. Petersburg in 1915, and Anna apparently dedicated thirty four poems to Boris. Anrep fled to the West in 1917 after the Bolshevik revolution. Anna, who wasn’t into fleeing anywhere, gave Anrep a black ring which he wore as a talisman. They did not see each other for the next 50 years. In 1965, at 76 years of age Anna was able to meet some of her pre-revolutionary acquaintances in 1965, when she was allowed to travel to Sicily and England, in order to receive the Taormina prize and an honorary doctoral degree from Oxford University. However Anrep didn’t turn up. He had lost the black ring. Be this as it may, it has been noticed that ‘Anna’ and not ‘Anne’ accompanies the depiction of St. Anne in the mosaic that Anrep created in the cathedral in Mullingar of St. Patrick and St. Anne. Following this story, the ambassador announced that there is a project which is going to recreate the mosaics in Moscow and St. Petersburg, and the Irish embassy is going to be a part of that project.
Poet Ambassador McDonagh
The high point of the evening, was the discovery by most, but not all members of the audience, that Ambassador Philip McDonagh is an accomplished poet in his own right. His poetry was at least as powerful if not more so than any that preceded. Some of his verse was accompanied by passages of deep and mysterious music played by the Kevin Rowsome on uileann pipes . All of this—perhaps with the addition of a little liquid refreshment—created a suitable atmosphere for souls to fly that evening at Grokholsky Pereulok. The Irish Embassy in Moscow is doing a fantastic job to show Russians that the Irish are spiritually close to them, and also show the Irish present that the Russians are not so far away culturally as they might think.
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Education
EIS News
I am really pleased to be able to draw your attention to The English International School, Moscow, East Campus, in this new publication. I am David Lowder, the new Principal of EIS Moscow East Campus. I have literally just arrived in Moscow as of this August having spent 14 years in South East Asia and ready for the challenge ahead of me. The School is only six years old but has already established itself quite firmly in the Moscow Educational Community. We are a medium-sized British style international school in the East of Moscow. The School is rapidly developing a good reputation for offering an exciting, academic and broad based curriculum in a personalized way. There is a strong community feel due to the support and involvement of the international and Russian parents. Come along and visit us and see first-hand how good we are! David Lowder New EIS School in West Moscow
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Having arrived relatively recently in Moscow, I have been working with my colleagues to start the new branch of EIS, to the west of the city. Although our school is new, there is already an excellent school spirit developing within a supportive and active school community. My colleagues, the children and I would be very happy to welcome new visitors to the school, if you would like to learn more about us. Edward Liptrot Principal, EIS Moscow West
Education
Coming soon!
www.MoscowExpatLife.ru
Russian Alumni Reunite in Moscow
On Wednesday 3 October, nearly 200 Kingston University alumni reunited at the British Ambassador’s Residence in Moscow. This was the first event of its kind in Russia, and attracted alumni who had studied at Kingston University itself, and also at partner institutions in Russia, such as the Russian
Presidential Academy of National Economy and Public Administration (RANE), the Pavlov State Medical University and Russian State University of Aviation Technology (MATI). Many of the alumni who attended have reached the top of their chosen professions, and are employed by high-profile, multi-national companies such as Sberbank, TNK-BP, Yukos, Yandex and Nycomed. Staff from Kingston University, partner organisations and representatives of Russian business and industry were also present. The reunion was held in the residence of the British Ambassador to Russia, HMA Tim Barrow CMG LVO. The impressive building was constructed
towards the end of the 19th century and is a jewel of the Russian decorative style of that period, with interiors designed by Fyodor Shekhtel, featuring ornate plaster stucco, gilding and wood panelling. The venue boasts fantastic views of the Kremlin which can be seen from the balcony. Alumni and guests were entertained by a jazz pianist, and made the most of the opportunity to reconnect with fellow Kingston alumni and staff. This reunion will become an annual event to ensure the links between Kingston University and its alumni remain strong. The Ambassador was very enthusiastic about welcoming alumni to the residence again in 2013.
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School Report
m a h n Hotspur trainers e t t o T in Moscow Pe te
rH
ain
sw ort
h
For four days in June, two trainers from Tottenham Hotspur soccer team visited the International School of Moscow to coach children in professional football skills
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School Report
When
I visited the and saw the ay of training d st la e th n o the school high speed on at t u o ab g in learning children charg was clear that it , d el fi g n yi tally enschool’s pla e something to b n ca l al tb o fo all the art of lit up into sm sp e er w n re ild otball joyable. The ch ent colour fo er iff d y b ed fi nal head teams, identi the Internatio , n to h ig Le s shirts. Mile uted: “take Hotspurs, sho am h en tt To de Coach at champion insi d rl o w e -b uld bled the ball.” Wo goalies scram r o s d ar rw fo left the rights, centre . The ball often ff -o ck ki r fo n into positio important ter, what was at m ’t n id d it t nds. pitch, bu for a few seco ly n o if l, o tr n ncenwas keeping co t one team co ils h w , se n te Action was in an improother played e th s, ic ct ta trated on ful eMenu der the watch n u l al , ch at so vised m achers who al te d an ts en ar p g their in English of emselves seein th g n yi jo en e laying a seemed to b absorbed in p ly te le p m co charges so al fun. enly become re d d su ad h at sport th
Paul Seedhou se, the headm aster commented: “The biggest thing is exper tise for the school. I think our PT te achers do a great job, but to bring a coac hing team out from the UK m eans top qualit y training. It ’s really exciting for the kids. I’v e been talking to parents this morning, they ’ve been saying that their children have been getting up early, they ’ve been runn ing to school, the level of en thusiasm has b een huge. It ’s had a very po sitive impact on them. The parents have al ready asked m e if we’re going to do this again next ye ar , so this will probably be an annual thing. W e tr y to offer a wide ran ge of sports in th e school, but with footb all being a wo rld sport and I think with th e Euro Champ io nships coming up, this is the one that h as caught the children’s imag ination.”
But
the training does not only cover pro-footwork. Miles Leighton explained: “We have a holistic approach. At the end of today’s session for example, the coaches will advise the children on nutrition. It’s not just about football, it’s about personal discipline, how to look after themselves and so on.” So does this mean no more McDonalds?, I asked, perplexed as to how any child in the city of Moscow, or anywhere for that matter is going to survive without junk food for longer than about 12 hours. “Menu in English, we try to explain to them that if you want to be fit, really fit, you have to look after yourself.” We shall see. But one thing is for certain, the look of concentration, pride and joy on the children’s faces was unmistakable.
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Back To The Past
July 8th
1989 ckovich
ri Arrival Frede
As BA 872 comes into land I look out excitedly on the Soviet Union, land of the cold war enemy and my new place of work. I have been here before, two years earlier passing through to Baku but this time is different. I am coming to stay, for a couple of years at least, a child program. Sheremetyevo 2 is drab and dull despite the bright sunshine outdoors, the copper coloured cylinders masking the concrete ceiling seem good for one thing only, to collect vast quantities of dust. I look at them a long time as the queues in the arrivals hall are back to the stairs, I later learn that most of the West European time I get to the border guard there have been resulting in blows. Returning Russians it seems to the annoyance of a group of orderly Dutch armed with their Schipol duty free bags. A stern faced uniformed lady in a reinforced booth takes my documents. She sits motionless staring at me with the documents open on her table. I am beginning to feel uncomfortable, something must be wrong. I attempt a disarming smile but this only increases the intensity of her gaze. Then, after what seems like an eternity, for no apparent reason she picks up a mechanical stamp and punches my visa. Quite what vetting process has occurred I do not know but Although less than 10 years old, the baggage hall is run down and hopelessly inadequate.
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There are people and bags everywhere. Because of the time spent in immigration ours have been taken off and piled between two conveyors. Eventually my luggage and I are reunited but now comes the biggest challenge, the queue for customs. I pick what I hope will be the quickest line. Every passenger is being checked, bags xticularly hard on their own citizens, almost as if they must be punished for having had the good fortune to leave for a short time. The Russian gentleman in front of me is undergoing the indignity of having his bags opened and inspected yet he is remarkably patient, as if such treat-
door I see the man pass him something which is quickly pocketed. He returns, packs his belongings and moves on. I show my dollars. The circling and stamping my currency declaration he lets me through. As I go to step into the main building which some with name boards, a hand grabs my arm to meet me. I ask him how he got inside past the he introduce himself earlier? He laughs saying he has his methods and he wanted to see how I coped alone with the Customs. I am immediately suspicious of Sasha. We push through the airport fending off would be taxi drivers.
Back To The Past It is hot and there is the strong smell of humanity. We get outside and our driver packs us into a creaking Volga and we drive into town past the tank barrier war memorial. I am struck by how few cars there are and that there seem only two types, Ladas and Volgas. We drive down Gorky street past Pushkinskaya the pavements punctuated with queues of people carrying empty bags. Few talk and no one smiles. Sasha says we will go straight to dinner, he has managed to get a table in the main restaurant at the Intourist Hotel but we must be there by seven or it will be sold. The car waits for us. The Intourist is twenty two stories of concrete panels and glass stood next to the more around and totally at odds with the surrounding architecture. In the entrance are people everywhere, we push our way through to a large room at the back. Sasha embraces the restaurant doorman and hands him a box of Polaroid a desk by the door holding a book of coupons and a stamp. She scowls as she hands over two coupons, resentful that she is not party to the transaction, and we enter a large hall with laid tables. We are shown to one near the stage and Sasha opens one of two bottles of vodka that much vodka I assume we will have guests. Sasha laughs and informs me no and that this is the best zakuski (snacks) in town. The lights go down and we watch a spellbinding
roller skating, magic and dancing. The skill and artistry is truly amazing, as are the barely clad dancers, and the contrast between the brightly lit show and the world outside could not be greater. One of the dancers repeatedly smiles -
We leave, Sasha retrieving what remains of the second bottle and we drive to my hotel. I use the word loosely. One of our partners is an Institute with its own accommodation blocks. I am lucky I am told, I will be in one of the betoff the Garden Ring. By now it is almost dark and I am struck by how little lighting there is for a city centre. I hand over my passport for registration and am given a large key attached to an even larger piece of wood. It then occurs to me that the staff speak no English and my Russian is limited to four weeks of listening to a BBC beginners course. Sasha bids me goodnight and suddenly I feel alone, really alone. I step into my room and switch on the single bare light bulb hanging from the centre of the ceiling. The light is yellowish from a lack of power and grime and barely illuminates the room. The ceiling is high, the room narrow and the walls bare giving the distinct feeling of a cell, only Lenin is there looking down to witness my discomfort. I open the bathroom. Here the light is too bright illuminating the ugliness of the half tiled walls and mould ridden grout. The shower is a plastic I stand in the ceramic tray with no sides, not
I look down at the toilet. The seat is roughly cut from chipboard, swollen and delaminated from repeated soakings in misdirected urine. I sit on the rock hard bed with its single sheet and blanket and stare at the I have gone from excitement to discomthe USSR.
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Ask the Experts
What to look for in a Financial Advisor Andrew Bartlett
In my years of experience within the Financial Services industry, both in Russia and South East Asia I have come across more cases of clients being miss-sold a financial product, by a supposedly ‘professional’ advisor, than I care to think about. Of course, in any industry you get both good and bad service and advice, but it seems that my chosen profession attracts more than its fair share! The situation is worse in areas which have little or no regulation of this industry, and unfortunately Russia falls into this category, so how can an individual protect themselves from unscrupulous salesmen and the ‘advice’ they give? In this series of articles, I will try to give some advice on what to look for before you accept any advice from a Financial Advisor, and this article will focus on the first stages: choosing and then meeting your financial advisor for the first time. My first piece of advice is ‘Ask around!’ Have any of your friends, colleagues or associates had any experience with the company or individual you are thinking of dealing with? Does the advisor have any clients who will provide a reputable and credible reference? If so, use them and ask what service they have received (but remember an advisor will never
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give the name of somebody who has had a bad experience or is unlikely to give anything other than a positive reference!). Secondly, do you own research. Look at the company website and Google the name of the company or the advisor. There are any number of Expatriate Forums which often posts questions or comments about this very subject. Care must be taken to ensure you are not just reading comments from a disgruntled employee or somebody simply holding a grudge, but you should quickly see if there is anything of concern. Once you feel comfortable that the company and individual is worth speaking to, ask to see their qualifications. Most reputable advisors will offer this for you during a first meeting anyway, but if not it is quite natural for you to ask to see them. Don’t assume that because an individual works for a large or well-known company that they hold any professional qualifications to be a Financial Advisor! Where my company is based (Malaysia), the regulator stringently monitors and checks advisors qualifications, and their Continuous Professional Development (CPD), before they will issue or renew a license to practice. A list of all qualified advisors is then published online for anybody to check.
Unfortunately, there is nothing like this in Russia and literally anybody can profess to be a Financial Advisor regardless of whether or not they hold any professional qualifications or have any prior experience (or even training)! During a first meeting with your advisor, you should be comfortable that he or she is actually conducting a full ‘fact find’ on your individual situation and needs. Be wary of any advisor who starts trying to sell any products at this stage! Apart from the hard facts (age, family situation etc.), your advisor should understand your tolerance for risk, currency considerations (now and in the future), your liquidity needs, investment goals. Once the advisor has conducted his fact find, he should then prepare a full written summary of your discussions, along with his initial recommendation. My next article will focus on the fact find and the following stages of the advice process. If you have any questions for me or would like some specific advice, please feel free to email me at abartlett@farringdongroup.com.
Bits and Pieces
New Radio Station for Expats
At 12:00 on the 12th of November a English language music radio station went on air with an introduction by Moscow mayor Sergei Sobyanin: “Today we launch the first ever English language radio station in Moscow. I hope the station will get a warm welcome from listeners fro around the world, and will make businessmen and tourists in Moscow feel at home. Here you can follow the news and listen to music in the most amazing city in the world.” The music on that first day was upbeat, mostly rock. The station which is broadcasting on
FM 105.2 is managed by the Mos-
cow City Government and dedicates 2030% of air time to information and news coverage supplied by Russia Today. News is broadcast intermitedly and includes coverage of ‘many Russian themes relevant for people living in Moscow,’ said the editor-in-chief of ‘Moscva-Media’ Igor Shestakov. Shestakov considers the station’s potential audience to be in the region of 3 million, although the station calculates that the number of expats working in Moscow to be no more than 150,000, the majority of whom are Americans, Brits and Germans. The station’s press service also calculates that about 5 million tourists visit the capital every year.
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The History of
Moscow Museums
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a odk V Museum nst
Max Er
If
you venture behind the vast Izmailova hotel complex, through a market where you can buy useful things like winter hats and sturdy boots, you will see a massive theme park called ‘Kremlin’. Here are imitation towers, moats, inns, wooden houses, carts, you name it. Like all such parks, the place is highly coloured, and a little over done, but nevertheless popular. Up a ramp to the left is a small museum called the ‘History of Russian Vodka’ museum, which is a little gem, and well worth the visit.
Moscow Museums Here I made some important discoveries in terms of the importance of vodka for the development of Russian society, that is, if the museum’s historical texts are anything to go by. One reads that pre-’Russ’ Russians ‘didn’t have any idea of getting drunk’ and all they had to quench their thirst were various home-made brews such as mead. This all changed when Byzantine and Greek monks helped to introduced Christianity into the country, as they bought with them the idea of drinking (albeit in small quantities) wine at the altar. The inferred meaning here is that the use of alcohol in Church services helped to spread a drinking culture. God’s hand at work? The first spirits ‘aqua-vitae’ were brought into Russia in 1429 by Genoese merchants on their way to Lithuania, and the real breakthrough, according to the museum, came in 1437 when a Russian missionary delegation travelled to Italy where they saw vodka being distilled in Italian monasteries. It’s those monks again! Vodka, derived from the Russian word ‘voda’ meaning water, is likely to have been distilled out of rye at one of the Moscow monasteries by 1450-1470. Needless to say, it wasn’t just monks who enjoyed the kind of open communication associated with vodka. After the Mongol-Tartar yoke was finally overthrown, the Grand Prince of Moscow and Tsar of all Russia, Ivan III, got down to serious business and introduced the first monopoly on production and selling of vodka. Ivan IV (the terrible) continued the profitable business of his predecessor and took it one step forward by opening a kind of drinking house: the Tsar’s Kabak’ where henchmen could play dice, fight and drink their earnings away. A effective business model indeed. State revenues from vodka production and sales have reached 40% in certain periods of Russian history.
Throughout Russian history, the way that vodka production and sales were managed constantly changed, and in this, the museum’s texts are absolutely correct. One could extrapolate and judge the whole of Russian history through the way the powers have handled the production and sale of vodka. Peter the Great combined ‘wine leases’ whereby the producers paid a small percentage to the state, with the sale of vodka. This system created the dynasties of the ‘vodka kings’ of which the likes of Pyotr Smirnov are only relatively modern successors. By the end of the XIX century private vodka production boomed. The choices were many and varied, from ‘Petrovskaya’ to ‘Russkoye Dobro,’… In the beginning of the XX century there were more than 5000 distilleries in Russia.
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Moscow Museums
Coming soon!
www.MoscowExpatLife.ru
Attempts by the Tsarist, pre and post-revolutionary governments to curtail the sale of vodka have usually been abandoned fairly shortly after they were introduced. Limited prohibition was introduced during the war against Japan of 1904-5, and this, according to some historians, is one of the causes for Russian revolution of 1905-7, although such over-simplification of history remind one of certainties established during good vodka drinking sessions. All restrictions on vodka sales were finally cancelled by the Soviet government only in 1924, and a year later, a state monopoly was introduced. The Soviets were actually good for vodka production. Double filtration with charcoal, for example, was introduced and some Soviet vodka gained a reputation of being of high quality. In May 1985, Gorbachev introduced his disastrous ‘Improved Measures Against Drunkenness and Alcoholism’ which struck a heavy blow to the national liquor and vodka industry. However there were still ways of obtaining the stuff. In Moscow, for example, my Russian wife recounted how she bought vodka from taxi drivers. The abolition lasted for 5 years. In 1992, Yeltsin abolished the state monopoly and as a result the country was flooded with low quality, often fake and therefore dangerous products, as the museum’s text seems to enjoy pointing out. The hole caused in the state’s tax revenues was so significant that after a year a new state monopoly was established.
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Today the quality of vodka is fairly well regulated, but that has not eliminated counterfeit products, although gradual tightening up and improvement of retail outlets in Russia’s main cities has made a difference. At least that’s what they say. Independent experts calculate that one third of all alcohol sold in Russia is counterfeit even today. The government continues to reap massive tax revenues, although the percentage of vodka sales in proportion to overall alcohol sales has been decreasing in recent years. This doesn’t stop the average adult consuming 15.6 litres of pure alcohol a year according to WHO sources, down from 18 litres a year in 2009. But then Brits consume 13.4 and the good Irish 14.4. On the way out of the museum I enjoyed a free shot of vodka offered as part of the visit to the museum. Outside, the Izmailova hotel complex also looked like a theme park. Good vodka!
Moscow Museums
Museum
of Old Soviet Military Aircraft
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Moscow Museums
OK, this is a non-standard museum. The exhibits are displayed in a non-standard way; basically it is a Soviet jet-fighter and helicopter graveyard, and the way into the museum is a little non-orthodox. If you are a photo buff like me, or would simply like to get up close to, and touch rusting Migs and bombers, this is for you. The museum is on Khodinsky Boulevard, opposite the huge Megasport complex. You have to climb underneath a barrier on the side of the road towards a rusty gate, which is firmly locked. Walk alongside the fence to the right of the gate and knock on the side of the ‘vagon,’ (a caravan). Somebody will come out and ask you what you want in a gruff way. Say you want to get into the Aircraft Museum in Russian if you can, or just offer 100 roubles and the man will open the gate and let you in. It is sad that such magnificent fighting machines in which men served, possibly in the skies over Afghanistan have ended up in such a state. The electronics and mighty engines have been ripped out. Nevertheless, it is unclear how long this place will allow visitors in, so take the opportunity whilst you can.
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Shagaya Po Mosckvye
M
46
tcher a W rk eL Pa
Shagaya Po Mosckvye
re the
Gone a ? y l t n rece sks. In are Italian k r a P Gorky ky shashlyk kio ink, an outdoor o t n e e ou b ows and the tac nd skate board r background y e v a H e h ra round s all on th , a rolle able
t wifi ow, fair g the free an borr ue, free is c dodgy q n e u r a o t e y e h ugh s t ants, P lanket do eno . Then b s ’t h ie n it it o il restaur w d c te one kov ing fa comple at I for rgei Kap h al boat e t n S ; g io r cinema it in o t h d ra ec et eme park’s t park dir on som type th w is s e d a n n h a of the la p f y o ly lost. a Disne d an em appointment d f n e o a id n c is e n io t d ten the crea rky, g. With xim Go for the a in g M lk in f a h o s w e : of nam by pu ars the e , the lob 1 b 1 h 0 ic 2 in rk wh ide a pa s in k r a p
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Shagaya Po Mosckvye Now you can g o dancing here in the evening also for nothin s, g. The place h as much of the tr ditional non-c aommercial feel of the Soviet but with a diff park erence. This tim e round people smiling, even are running aroun d and laughin can spend mo g . Yo u ney here if yo u want to, lots or you can do of it, what most peo ple do, have a time without great spending a ro uble. Weren’t supposed to b p arks e places where you could just out, with or w hang ithout the child ren? I recomm taking a few h end ours off and d oing precisely ing except enjo n othying this place . You might be prised. If this is surthe way Mosco w’s iconic parks going, I for on are e give the thum bs up.
Gorky Park, (495) 532 6374/5, 9 Krymsky Val, m. Park Kultury/Oktyabrskaya Open 11 am-11 pm. Entrance free.
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Shagaya Po Mosckvye
Ostozhenka: Dig into Moscow’s Golden Mile Known as the “Golden Mile”, Ostozhenka street has become synonymous with exorbitant digs, rolling in at around $30,000 a square meter and repeatedly ranked amongst the world’s most expensive locales. Yet this sleepy street—a ghost town in winter—escapes the hubbub of nearby Arbat and the more established Prechistenka. Its moneyed residents may regard Ostozhenka as just a branded stop-over from Rublovka to London, but this tranquil stretch is peppered with historic treasures and superb architecture. With indoor amusements from one end to the other, Ostozhenka provides the perfect antidote to Moscow’s winter sting. Begin at the Kropotkinskaya metro station, one of the oldest in Moscow. Khrushchev renamed the metro station after communist ideologue Pyotr Kropotkin. Kropotkinskaya now primarily serves as a jumping off point to the reconstructed Christ the Savior cathedral and Ostozhenka. Follow signs inside the metro for Ostozhenka street. Upon exiting the station, Christ the Savior looms large, luxuriating in its golden radiance even on a cloudy day.
tos Text and Pho rie by Katrina Ma
Standing at 105 meters, Christ the Savior Cathedral remains the tallest in the Russian Orthodox community. Upon its official debut in 1883, nearly 70 years after Tsar Aleksandr I first commissioned it to celebrate Napoleon’s withdrawal, it was the newly crowned Aleksandr III who held the honor of consecrating Russia’s national cathedral. Designed by Konstantin Ton and modeled on the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, the interior murals were painted by some of Russia’s finest. The halls overflowed with gilded rapturous décor, showcasing rare marble from the depths of Siberia, precious gems, numerous paintings and icons, and of course, the grandest dome known to Russia. Such wealth would be shredded a half century later when, upon Stalin’s order, this magnificent cathedral was gutted in 1931, its riches spread across Moscow (still visible in several metro stations) and
finally, fiercely, demolished. It took more than a year to clear the site of all remaining rubble and open the world’s largest outdoor swimming pool. Many legends exist to explain Stalin’s motivation. Some say astrologists convinced Stalin that this par-
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Shagaya Po Mosckvye ticular spot in Moscow was the hallowed ground of future Soviet power. But the most plausible explanation is that Stalin simply wanted to deal an irrevocable symbolic blow to the Orthodox Church. And that it did. So much so that its rebuilding became the paramount pursuit of the Orthodox Church once the Soviet Union collapsed. Entirely paid for by private donations, construction commenced in 1994 and opened in record time just three years later. Its stunning interior was completed by 2000, when the cathedral was formally consecrated. It must be said that although this author was initially loath to tour the new cathedral, decrying its “newness,” the impeccable quality of the reconstruction, and in particular, the recreated murals are absolutely worth a visit. Return to Ostozhenka street, opposite the metro and adjacent to the cathedral. A feast for the eMenu in English, this snug street is a showy parade of art nouveau, neo-classical, and postmodernist architecture. Ostozhenka was also a frequent haunt of Pushkin, Turgenev, Bulgakov, Akhmatova, Gogol, and many other greats. Originally, however, this “Golden Mile” was a simple floodplain on the banks of the Moskva river, teeming with haystacks -- from which it draws its name. The fields and meadows were an ideal home for royal stables in the 17th century. As Moscow expanded, Ostozhenka became more popular with the aristocracy, many of whom built the elegant estates still on display. By the early 20th century, however, it was Russia’s nouveau riche who gobbled up property, creating ostentatious examples of pre-revolutionary “bling”. Along with the construction of Christ the Savior, the area underwent a massive building boom. The street remained relatively untouched during the Soviet period; plans to destroy all buildings and create a grand avenue thankfully sunk with the Palace endeavor. Immediately captivating the eye is the art nouveau apartment house at # 3, on the corner of Ostozhenka and Obydensky per. Notice the turret in the form of an inverted wine goblet. According to local legend, the owner swore to give up alcohol after several bouts of embarrassing drunkenness and near-bankruptcy. A changed man, he wanted the entire neighborhood to know it. The over-
50
turned goblet is a symbol of his final declaration. In its hey-day, Ostozhenka was also quite the “party place”, thanks largely to the former Shustov merchant house at # 11/13, home to Dovecote, one of Moscow’s most famous taverns at the time. Known for its cockfights, thundering music, and wild guests, this watering hole attracted a mixed crowd of rowdy revelers, swindling nouveau riche, and intellectual revolutionaries. Also no longer standing at 15/17 was the Moscow Military District Headquarters, which was the bloody scene of clashes between the Tsar’s army and Bolshevik partisans in October 1917.
Shagaya Po Mosckvye
At # 16 is the must-see Moscow Multimedia Center, an airy modern space occupying five floors which regularly features new exhibitions across the media spectrum. Nearly all exhibits offer Russian and English explanations -- still a rarity in Moscow -- and reflect the creative and fresh ingenuity much-appreciated in this city. At left are the towering onion domes of the Zachatyevsky Monastery. Founded in 1584 by the son of Ivan the Terrible in hope of a divine fix for his wife’s infertility, the main church of the monastery was demolished in the 1930s by Soviet authorities. The remaining buildings were used as schools and even a prison until it returned to the Russian Orthodox church in 1995. At # 21 is the 1903 Kekushev mansion, now
the residence of the Egyptian Defense Attaché Office, despite its rather feminine pastel frill. It also served as muse for Margarita’s house in Bulgakov’s renowned novel, “Master and Margarita”. Bulgakov met and fell in love with Yelena Shilovskaya, the wife of the Soviet general who occupied this house in the 1920s. Their amour was so rapturous that Yelena left her husband and became Bulgakov’s third, and final, wife.
On the corner of Khilkov per and Ostozhenka, # 37 is the former estate home of writer Ivan Turgenev‘s mother and the setting of Turgenev’s “Mumu” - a scandalous story of a rich lady who cruelly mistreats her serfs. Without ruining the ending, suffice it to say that Turgenev drew on his thorny relationship with a harsh mother. In 2009, a small museum devoted to Turgenev opened here, which amongst other things, showcases Turgenev’s death mask. Just behind the estate, but no longer in existence, was an eminent 19th century Europeanstyle bath resort, where even royalty gathered to “taker to the waters”. The mineral waters were said to cure all sorts of maladies. At # 38 is the grand Yeropkin estate, built in the 1760s for Moscow Governor General Yeropkin, best known for quelling the “Plague revolt”, an unusual affair which capitalized on public fears of the bubonic plague. A commoner allegedly dreamt that a plague would engulf Moscow unless the city paid due homage to a particular icon. Rumors spread like wild-fire and people rushed en masse to kiss the icon and pray for deliverance. Continue onwards, passing a delightful array of 19th and early 20th century architecture, particularly # 53. Commissioned by Tsar Aleksandr II, the former Kaktkovsky Lyceum was built in 1875 to serve children of the aristocracy. It was closed in 1917, reopening shortly after as the Soviet Diplomatic Academy. It continues to operate as the Diplomatic Academy of the Russian Foreign Ministry. Nearing the end of Ostozhenka at the corner of Zubovsky Bulvar, don’t miss the Museum of Moscow, established in 1896. Although not a treasure trove like the Moscow City History Museum near Lubyanka, it’s still worth a quick exploration for archeological finds dating several thousand years B.C. It also includes superb pieces from former Moscow city gates. Admission is free. From here, if interested in comparing Ostozhenka to its fabled sister, Prechistenka street, turn right onto Zubovsky which leads to Prechistenka. Or for continued museum hopping, cross Krymsky bridge for the Central House of Arts, the Treyakov on Krymsky Val, and Gorky Park. And finally, if calling it a day, simply cross the street and enter the Park Kultury metro.
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Barman of the Month
Artem Moscow expat Life is proud to announce Bar Manager Artem Barman of the Month! Well known for his welcoming and friendly attitude, he is one of the reasons that Simple Pub at Smolenskaya— where he has been working for a year since the pub opened—has become so popular with expats. Artem says that he likes to communicate, and communicate he does. He explained: “everyone is different, and making everyone happy is not easy, but that’s what this job is all about, and I enjoy it. Some people like schnapps, some like whisky or rum, but most like beer, after all we are a pub. Some guests don’t know which beer they want, so I give them a little degustation in special small beer glasses. People are a bit surprised sometimes.” His favourite drinks are anything with rum in it: “rum is kind of exotic although you can make
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№1
a lot of different drinks with it. It’s the elixir of life.” Moscow, Artem says: “is growing and developing. It never stops, it just halts for a while and then keeps on growing. It doesn’t matter what people say, it just keeps on growing.” Artem is 23 and is single. Simple Pub. Smolenskaya Ploshad 6, M. Smolenskaya
Gourmet Moscow
The Sweetlife Joh
nH
arri
Inside a magnificent house in Rosinka, a large group of women and children are waiting anxiously to be invited in to sample cupcakes and cakepops made by hand by ‘The SweetLife Moscow’. Fortunately, there was no delay, and bang on time tens of people crammed into Angela Leveridge’s kitchen to behold a truly amazing sight.
On
the kitchen table was a universe of multi-coloured cupcakes laid out carefully by Jennifer Sherman and Oxana Donskaya. Small and large, butterfly cakes, cake balls (called cakepops), gourmet cupcakes and many other versions of this great culinary tradition which can be traced back to the 18th century and was part of many of our childhood experience. Some of the tops were sprinkled with edible glitter and decorated with fondant stars. In between the trays were displays of cakepops, some created in the form of Rudolph the reindeer, others as ghosts and pumpkins. A treat for the children whose short height gave them an advantage in grabbing as many goodies as they could whilst slightly more inhibited parents looked on. Parents ate surreptitiously, taking the cupcakes out of the general arena and demolishing them in private or small groups, and then carefully came back for more. Meanwhile a young boy over by the window gave his full attention to digesting a delicious collection of cakes and pops. He wasn’t worried about being on a diet. Jennifer Sherman and Oxana Donskaya, the two creative geniuses behind this project told me how this was all put together.
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son
Gourmet Moscow
I decided to do something that I am skilled in and passionate about, now that my youngest child has started detsky sad, said Jennifer Sherman in a beautiful Lancashire accent. “I’ve lived in Moscow for five years, I decided to set up this business with my friend and now business partner Oxana. I’ve done courses in the UK in baking and home culinary, then when I had my third child I was thinking of doing something from home, but it was impossible because I was too busy. Now she is almost 3, the timing has worked out and everything has fallen into place perfectly.” Oksana added: “I also am a mum with two children. I spent about ten years working in offices as a marketing and PR manager for Russian and Western companies. Then I decided to change my office job to something that I really like to do. I took a lot of cooking classes with world famous pastry Chef’s in France, Italy and the US. So cooking and baking is my passion. We feel very fortunate to be able to work together doing something we love and being part of our customers special occasions!”
A publisher friend who runs a culinary magazine lets them use his kitchen. “We also experiment with new recipes at home and design and create new ideas for our fondant work,” said Jennifer. “All the details are hand-made, they all have to be created and dried, and this takes a lot of time. We are constantly learning,” she continued. Most of the special ingredients that make these cakes particularly tasty are imported. “We import from the States and the UK. We buy quite a lot of basic ingredients here, but all the ingredients that we can’t get here we have to import in. For example, Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla, gum paste, gel colours and fondant We like to have a special fondant that we work with. All the colours that we use are GM free and Kosher; we like to make everything as pure as possible for the children to eat.” Explained Jennifer. Oksana explained that they don’t require a shop, as just about everything they need to do in terms of marketing and getting orders can be accomplished on-line. “We don’t keep stock, because everything has to be freshly made on the day or the day before. The butter cream, for example, has to be used straight away. Then we deliver to people directly, anywhere in the Moscow area.” The SweetLife team are concentrating on the expat market at the moment, but plan to expand and cater for Russians as well. The market is vast, from children’s parties to Corporate events. Life is certainly Sweet in Moscow!!
The SweetLife team: Jennifer Sherman +79175988145; Managing Director Oxana Donskaya, Managing Director. +79162561810 Email: jennifer@thesweetlifemoscow.com; oxana@thesweetlifemoscow.com Website: www.thesweetlifemoscow.com FaceBook: The SweetLife Moscow
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Gourmet Moscow
Searching for a true
Italian (and a Sicilian in Moscow)
David M
orely
Like many expats in Moscow I am always searching for a good pizza. There is certainly no shortage of choices these days as pizzerias have become as ubiquitous and popular as in any other world metropolis. But where does the discerning pizza lover find a “real” Italian pizza in town? I was wandering down Tverskaya Street from Pushkin square and took a left down Kozitski Pereulok to find the Etaj restaurant “Pizzeria del Kapo”. I was meeting the resident Italian chef, Vincenzo Abitabile.
Vincenzo has spent the last sixteen years in Russia preparing Italian food, in Lazarevskaya on the Black Sea coast west of Sochi, in the Siberian oil town of Nefteyugansk and, for the past six years, with the Etaj restaurant group in Moscow. I wanted to ask him what makes a real Italian pizza and at the same time find out how a chef from Selinunte, a small village on the south coast of Sicily, found his way to Russia and stayed. I also wanted to try his pizza.
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Gourmet Moscow Selinunte sounds like the sort of place you might rather be on a wet and chilly November afternoon in Moscow. Enzo’s dark, Mediterranean eMenu in English shone brightly as he described his native origins. “It’s a place full of antiquities; not Roman, as you think, but Greek!” Selinunte was a major part of the ancient Greek colonial empire, being the most westerly outpost. Indeed, there are the remains of several Greek temples surrounding the town, notably on the acropolis with the imposing Temple of Hera, similar to the one at Olympia but more intact. Hera was the wife of Zeus, as well as conveniently one of his sisters. Her other job in the pantheon of Greek mythology was being the goddess of women and marriage. So was it Hera who dispatched Enzo to Russia in search of women and marriage? We were chatting in Russian as he speaks no English and his Russian is better than my Italian. “The best pizza is the simplest, not too many ingredients. For example, Napolitana with just a few anchovies and capers, maybe a sprinkle of onion or fresh basil. Otherwise just pizza dough, tomato sauce and mozzarella.” The key to a good pizza is the dough. Enzo makes a fresh batch every day using only Italian flour and Italian olive oil. “You have to let it stand for an hour before you can make a good disc,” he explained. He hammers a ball of dough with his fist and expertly flicked the spinning pastry in the air to form a perfect circle of just the right size. “My Russian wife speak Italian, and the bambinos, boys 10 and 8, but their Russian is better! The only Italians I meet are the ones who come into the restaurant. They say my risotto better than where they come from!” He brings us his simple pizza to try with just a layer of fresh tomatoes sprinkled with rocket salad, a taste of Sicilian sunshine. We ordered the Caesar salad pizza and, at Enzo’s recommendation, pizza with smoked salmon, both not very Italian sounding, but delicious. Then we could not resist trying the pizza with sliced pear and gorgonzola, an amazing combination! Finally, we ordered the one with pikante Italian sausage and a classic margherita, to take home of course. “So, when you retire, will you open your own little place back in Sicily?” I ask. Enzo replies: La pensione? I probably go live in Mozhaisk, Moscow region!”
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Where to eat in Moscow
Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Moscow Represented on the five continents, the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is a truly international community dedicated to bringing together professional and non-professional members from around the world engaged in friendship, comradeship and sharing the same passion and pleasures of fine cuisine, wine, gastronomy and the same values of excellence, fraternity and preservation of the culinary arts. Although the Chaîne has been in Russia for 12 years, the Moscow Bailliage is only 6 years old with over 50 professional and non professional members. Being a member of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs allows you to discover and be part of a long culinary history and tradition which is still promoted and celebrated today through the Chaîne’s extensive international, national and local events. Dinners, themes and locations of the dinners vary. Many are formal events in prestigious restaurants, hotels, private clubs and historic buildings where professional members such as chefs or managers (of hotels and restaurants) have the opportunity to showcase and demonstrate their skills, creativity and service to a discerning and appreciative audience. Less formal dinners and lunches are also offered in more casual surroundings, often with less traditional menus allowing members to experience the specialties of the kitchen and the cellar and a gastronomy and wine culture that are characteristically and quintessentially local. If you are interested in attending a Moscow Chaîne event please contact us at admin@ chaine-moscow.ru
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Members - hotels and restaurants: Barvikha Hotel & SPA Hediard Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow Hotel Intercontinental Moscow Tverskaya Hotel Ritz-Carlton Moscow La Maree Restaurants Radisson Slavyanskaya Hotel & Business Center Scandinavia Restaurant Sheraton Palace Hotel Soho Rooms Sumosan Restaurant Moscow
Moscow
now offers so many wonderful restaurants and great bars. Our aim is to provide you with Moscow’s most extensive listings of Restaurants and Bars. In this issue it is an A-Z format and in the near future it will be combined with our inter-active website.
Our
wonderful researchers have worked hard to produce this list, however if your restaurant/ bar is not listed, please contact us, and you will be in the next issue.
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants 1920
32.05
Amstel Bar
Acienda
10/2 str.2b,Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: American, $
3 Karetniy ryad M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
2, Dnepropetrovskaya ul (Yujniy) M. Yuzhnaya Cuisine: European, $
1-2-3 Café
7 sisters
6 bld.1, Bolshaya M. Cherkizovskaya Preobrazhenskaya Ploshchad Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
18/1 Olimpiyskiy pr. (Hotel Renessans) M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
Aromass Indian Restaurant
39 Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Brazilian, Spanish, Cuban, Latin American, Mexican, Portuguese, $$$
1-2-3 Café
Ahtuba
11, Bulevard Dmitriya Donskogo M. Bulvar Dmitriya Donskogo Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
1a Nijegorodskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $
11 Generala Beloborodova St. M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: Jewish, $$
All-Time Bar
Annyushka Traktir
1-2-3 Café 29, Zemlyanoi Val M. Kurskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
1-2-3 Café 5, Pushkinskaya Square M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
3 Rooms 84/32 kor.1, Profsoyuznaya St. M. Kaluzhskaya European, Italian, Japanese, $$
Krizhizanovskovo 20/30 M. Profsoyuznaya Menu in English Cuisine: Indian, $$
Ananas (Pineapple)
7/5 bld.2, Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$
Chistoprudny Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Russian, $$$
Aloha Bar
A&B Café
38 bld.1, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$
AMG Café dj bar
8, Tulskaya bol. M. Tulskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
13a Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $
A. F. Koni
Amstel
A.V.E.N.U.E.
2, Kievskiy vokzal square (Evropeyskiy) M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $
Coming soon!
www.MoscowExpatLife.ru
9/1 Novaya Basmannaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Russian, European, $$
8 km of Rublyovo-Uspenskoye Shosse,Barvikha Luxury Village M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: French, Italian, Japanese, Russian, $$$$
Abricol Lipeckaya 7a M. Tsaritsyno Cuisine: European, Russian, Mixed, $$
Academy Building 2, 23 1st Shchipkovskii Per. M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Japanese, Seafood, $$
Accenti 7, Kropotkinsky per. M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Author’s cuisine, Italian, Japanese, $$$
60
Adriatico 3, Blagoveschensky Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Africa 10, 2nd Vladimirskaya St. M. Perovo Cuisine: African, Georgian, Mediterranean, $$
Aiko 24 Frunzenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$
Aist 8/1, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$
Akademicheskiy 1 Donskaya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$
Alazani 11/15 Volochaevskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$
Alenky tsvetochek 6/5 Kostyakova St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Jewish, European, $$
Alioli Ulitsa Neglinaya, 8/10 M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: Spanish, $$
Allegro Building 8, 52 Kosmodamianskaya Nab. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$$
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Alrosa
Andiamo
Apartment
4, 1st Kazachii Per. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$
53/6 Ostojenka M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
12/6 Savvinskiy Bol. per M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$
Alter Ego
Andreas
Profsoyuznaya St. 152/2 M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Russian, $$
Kutuzovsky Prospekt 12 M. Kutuzovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
Alye Parusa
Anfilada
11 Malaya Dmitrovka (Hotel Golden Apple) M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$
66 Aviatsionnaya St. M. Shchukinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Olympic Ave, 16, M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Mixed, $$$
Apropos
Argento
2 Frolov Per. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Italian,Mediterranean, European, $$$
104 Profsoyuznaya ul. M. Belyayevo European, Italian, $$
Angello
Aquarelle
60-letiya Oktyabrya Prospekt 3 M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Mediterranean, Japanese, European, Italian, $$$
36 Krasnaya Presnya St. M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
10 N.Maslovka M. Savyolovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $
Ararat Park Hyatt
Arshin Mal Alan
4 Neglinnaya ul., Ararat Park Khayat Moskva Hotel, 10th floor M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Caucasian, European, $$$
152/2 bld.2, Profsoyuznaya M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Azeri, Fusion, $$
Amarcord 6 Pokrovka St. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Italian, $$
American Bar and Grill 14, Kirovogradskaya M. Yuzhnaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
American Bar and Grill 2 bld.1, 1st TverskayaYamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
Amigo Migel 47 Leningradskiy prospekt M. Aeroport Menu in English Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$
Amsterdam 4, Ilinka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Dutch, European, $$$
AnderSon 74 bld.8, Leningradsky Prospect M. Sokol Menu in English Cuisine: Author’s, European, Confectionery, $$
Andiamo 4/2 Stroileley Ul. M. Universitet Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$
Anna Mons 3 Krasnokazarmennaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Fish - menu, $$
Annenfeld 17 Uralskiy St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, East, $
Annenfeld 17 Uralskaya St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, Russian, European, $
ANT-25 24 Rusakovskaya St. (Holiday Inn Moscow Sokolniki ,25 floor) M. Sokolniki Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
Apple Bar & Restaurant
Arbat 12 Plotnikov Per. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, Russian, $$
Argo 19 Melnikova St. M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, Russian, $$
Argument Café 41, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Aristocrat
29/1, Proezd Dezhneva M. Otradnoye Cuisine: Turkish, $$
6 bld.2, Lokomotivny Proezd M. Petrovsko-Razumovskaya Cuisine: armenian, georgian, caucasian, mexican, european, $$
Aozora
Arkhitektor
Leninsky Pr 38 M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$$
20 M. Nikitskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$
Antaliya
Academia Café & Pizzeria 2/1, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Amsterdam Café 19a bld.1, Vorontsovskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$
Andiamo
Art-Café Etre 2/14, Lopukhinsky Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $
Artefact 11 Konstantina Fedina St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $
Artist Gallery 19, Prechistenka Street M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, Fusion, Italian, Japanese, $$$
Artplay 11 bld.34, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
ArtТs Palace 3, bld.4 Uspensky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Fusion, Georgian, Russian, Seafood, $$$
61
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Aruba
Atlantic
Barbontempi
Bamboo Bar
4 Narodnaya St. M. Taganskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Cuban, Spanish, $$$
2/1 Kutuzovskii Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
8a str.1 Nikitskiy bul. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Asakhi
Presnenskaya Naberezhnaya 8 M. Vystavochnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Chineese, $$$$
118 Prospekt Mira M. Alexeyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$
Balaclava Avenue, 7 M. Chertanovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$$
Asia
Aurora
Krasnogorsk district, 65/66-y km Ring Road, TVK M. Strogino Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$
11/20 Petrovka st., Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
Assambleya (President-hotel)
12 Startovaya St. M. Medvedkovo Cuisine: European, mixed, $$$
24 Bolshaya Yakimanka St. M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Oriental, Italian, French, $$$$
AST-Mayak 25/1 Bolshaya Filevskaya Street M. Bagrationovskaya Cuisine: Azeri, European, Russian, $
Asteroid 10 Krylatskaya St. M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, $$
Astoria 57, Trifonovskaya street M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, Russian, $
At PirosmaniТs 4, Novodevichiy proezd M. Sportivnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
Atlantis
Aurora
Aurora - Restaurant Cruiser 1st Rank 10 Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, European, Russian, $$$
Aurora Yacht Club Moskovksaya oblast, 6th KM from MKAD on Dmitrovskii Shosse M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$
Avocado 12/2 Chistoprudny boulevard M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Vegetarian, European, Indian, Mexican, Japanese, $$
Azon Korpus 1, 28 Narodnogo Opolcheniya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, $
Barbontempi 8 Nikitskiy bul. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Bar 1920
BottleBar.ru
Bar Strelka
2 Pyatnitskiy per. M. Novokuznetskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Thai, Asian, $
14/5 Bersenevskaya naberejnaya M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Brix
Barbados
10/1 Mal.Kozihinskiy per. M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
5, Bolshoy Putinkovsky pereulok M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Indian, Spanish, Thai, $
BloggiBAR 12 Preobrajenskaya sq. M. Preobrazhenskaya Ploshchad Cuisine: European, $
Bookafe 3 Glinishevskiy per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $
BoomCafé 26/1 Sretenka M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $
Barry White 1/2 Glubokiy per. M. Krasnopresnenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European,$$
BBCafé 13 Skatertniy per. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Bora-Bora Grill 1 Semyonovskaya square M. Semyonovskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$
B2 8/1 Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, Seafood, $$$
62
10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Barista Leningradskiy prospect, 47/2 M. Aeroport Cuisine: European, $$
Barista Bar 47 bld.2, Leningradskiy Prospect M. Aeroport Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Beavers Ulitsa Lyublinskaya 171 M. Maryino Cuisine: European, $$
Beef Bar 13 Prechistinskaya Naberezhnaya, bld. 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Beer House 2/12 Kozitsky Maly pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Austrian, German, $$
Belochka Bar 1/2, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Europeane,Russian, $$
Bontempi bar 8A bld.1, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Bosco Bar
Bulka
Balcon
Beef Reef
3, Red Square M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
9, Krymski Val M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Vegetarian, Bakery, $
8 Novinskiy bulvar Lotte plaza M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Japaneese, $$$$
20, Malaya Dmitrovka M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Steakhouse, $$$
B-52
Balikoti
7 Litovskii Bulvar M. Yasenevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$
13/9 B. Ordynka M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, European, $$
13 bld.1, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, French, Asian, $$$$
Potapovsky Pereulok 5 M. Chistiye Prudi Menu in English Cuisine: International, $
B-69
Baltschug
Beeftro
69 Vavilova St. M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$
Bruder
Baan Thai
1 Balchug, Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow M. Novokuznetskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
26, Tsvetnoi Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: American, $
46 bld.1, Butyrskaya M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$
11, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Thai, $$
Bank
23 Autumn Avenue (Osenniy bulvar) Bisness Center M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, German, Japaneese, $$
Bosco Bar 19, Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
Booze Pub
Biblioteka Novinskiy bul’var,8 LOTTE PLAZA M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Blur Café 8/1 Bolshoy Drovyanoy per. M. Marksistskaya European, Russian, $$
BM 2/15 Moroseyka M. Kitay-gorod European, American, $$
Bosco Caféteria 3, Red Square M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Confectionery, $$$
Bublik 24, Tverskoi Boulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, onfectionery, $
Buffet 14/34 Maly Afanasyevsky per., bldg.2 M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$$
Baba Marta 8 Gogolevskiy bulvar M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Bulgarian, $$
Bagrationi 1/7 Spartakovskaya pl. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, $$$
Bakinskiy Dvorik
1/15 Kotelnicheskaya Embankment M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, $$
Barashka 20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Azerbaijani, $$$
Baron Munchausen 11 Mikluho-Maklay M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$
6 Stomynka St. M. Sokolniki Menu in English Cuisine: Caucasian, Seafood, $$$$
Barracuda Tavern
Baku 12/14 Usievicha M. Aeroport Cuisine: Azeri, European, French, Russian, $$
21/10, Komsomolskiy Prospekt M. Frunzenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$$
Baku Patio
Bed Café
6 Strominka M. Sokolniki Cuisine: American, Azeri, Georgian, $$
6 Presnenskay Val. bldg.2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Japaneese, $$$
Baku Patio 2
Bedouin
10 a, Akademika Sakharova M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, European, $$
57 Leninsky prospect M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: East, $
24/27 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$
Bavarius
Beefbar
Beer & Loga
Bellagio 8 Mosfilmovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
Beloe solnce pustyni 29, Neglinnaya M. Trubnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Azerbaijiani, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$
Beloye Solntse Pustyni 29 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Arabic, Uzbek, Chineese, $$$
Bericony 11 bld.6, Volxonka M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$$
Beverly Hills Diner 1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
63
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Beverly Hills Diner
Bocconcino
Bosfor
Café
10, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
7, Strastnoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Tuscany, $$$
22в Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Bison Steak House
Bochka
47/23 Stary Arbat St. (Old Arbat St.) M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Turkish, $$
15/2 Lubyansky Proyezd M. Kitay-gorod
2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$$
Bouillabaisse
Bolshoi
Pyatnitskaya ul, 25, 1D M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: International
Black Berry 10 Academic Sakharov Prospect M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$
Black Market Usacheva 2, Bldg 1 M. Frunzenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$
Blackberry Café 10, Akademika Sakharova Prospect M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, $$
Bo 6/1 str.1, Sretenskiy bul. M. Turgenevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian,Corean, Russian, $$
Bobby Dazzler
3/6 bld.2, Petrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$
Bon 4/4 bld.1, Yakimanskaya Nabereznaya M. Polyanka Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$$
Bontempi Restaurant 12 bld.1, Bersenevskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Boom Boom Room ul. 1905 Goda 2/1 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Pan Asian
7/13 Kostiansky pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$
Bora Bora Café
Bobry & Utki
Bosco Café
1A, Chistoprudnii Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Italian, Thai, $
3, Red Square M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
14/3 Orehoviy bul. M. Domodedovskaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $
37, Leninskyi bulvar M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Seafood, $$$
BQ Café
Bread and wine 27, Bolshaya Polyanka M. Polyanka Cuisine: Italian , Russian, $$
Bread and wine
18, Lva Tolstogo M. Park Kultury Cuisine: French, $$$
Che 10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Latin American, $$
Cherdak 7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
City Space Bar
27 Bol. Polyanka Ul. M. Polyanka Cuisine: Japanese, $$$
52 Kosmodamianskaya nab., Swissotel Krasnye Kholmy Hotel, 34th floor M. Paveletskaya
Brichmula
Coyote Ugly
3,19 Starovagankovsky Bystreet M. Alexandrovsky Sad Menu in English Uzbek $$$
6/3 bld.3, Kuznetskiy Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Coctails, $$
Briz (ship Alexander Blok) 12a Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$
Brussels 10/12 Timiryazevskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Belgian, $$$
Brussels Catering 17/1 Myasnitskaya St. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, German, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$
Bungalow Bar 6/1 Zemlyanoi Val M. Kurskaya Menu in English Cuisine: African, $$$
Corsa 78 Mira Prospect M. Rizhskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $
64
Carabas
Café Ararat 4 Neglinnaya M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Armenian, $$
Café De Fauchon 7 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya St., delicatessen Fauchon, 2nd floor M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, French, Seafood, $$$
Café Dioskuriya 5 Nikitsky Bulvar M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Caucasian, $$
Café Fresh 2/38 Dobroslobodskaya St. M. Baumanskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, Seafood, $$
Central Park Café 14A, Prospekt Vernadskogo M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Menu in English Cuisine: American, $
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Chocolate
Castle Grill Bar
Café Manon
Carre Blanc
Multiple Cuisine: European, $$
4 Komsomolskiy Pr. M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: European, Asian, $$$
19/2, Seleznevskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, $$$$
Castle Knight
Café Margarita
Casa Bella
58 Bol.Nikitskaya Cuisine: European, $$$
28, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$
29 Pr. Vernadskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Castle Rose
Café Pushkin
Casa Mia
10/1 1905 goda St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$
26a, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$$
MKAD 65 km ( Crocus City Moll) M. Myakinino Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$$
Café Pushkin Sweet-shop
Casta Diva
Cofelavka 5, Zabelina M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: onfectionary, $
Coffee Mania Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Coffee piu 9, Chistoprudnii bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Coffee-house УLandrin 9-4 Suschevskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: European, French, Russian, $
Comedy Café 163a Dmitrovskoe Shosse M. Altufyevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $
Chekhonte
26a, Tverskoy bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: confectionery, $
Crazy Hunter
25/6 Kosmodamianskaya nab. M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Rusian,Swiss, $
50 Povarskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$
Calvados
CDL Club & Restaurant
23 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
50, Povarskaya M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, Italian, $$$$
Cantinetta Antinori
Chaika
20, Denezhny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, tuscan, $$$$
7, Marksistskaya M. Marksistskaya Menu in English French, Georgian, International, Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $$$$
8 Dovatora St. M. Sportivnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
Conversation Café
Central Park Café
23\14, Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
14a Prospect Vernadskogo M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Menu in English Cuisine: American, Italian, $$
Costa Coffee
Cup&cake
Multiple location Menu in English Cuisine: Coffee, European, $
10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Café Bellissima
Café Fresco
23 Olhovskaya St. (Hotel Mandarin Moscow) M. Baumanskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$
8, 1st Frunzenskaya M. Frunzenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$
Café Brocard 36/1 Bol. Novodmitrovskaya St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: European, $
Casa di Famiglia 7/18 Metallurgov St. M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$
26, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
22, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$
Café Gotty 24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Café Loft 25 Nikolskaya, shopping center УNautilus,Ф 6th floor M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, $$$
Café Swiss
Cappuccino Express 26 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Polyanka Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Capri 7 Academika Sakharova M. Sukharevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$
Caribe Café club 18/18 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: Mexican, Brazilian, European, Italian, Cuban, Latin American, $$
CDL
Chaikhana Kishmish Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: Uzbek, East, $
Chaikhona є1 4 Lodochnaya St. M. Tushinskaya Menu in English European, Japanese, Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$
Chaikovsky 31/4, Triumfalnaya Squqre M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$
Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
65
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Chalet
Cicila
Dzhagannat
Ded Pihhto
7б Elektrolitny proezd M. Nagornaya Cuisine: European, French, Italian, Swiss, $$
2g Minskaya M. Park Pobedy Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
11, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Indian, $$
Building 3, 37 Myasnitskaya St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, French, Italian, Russian, $$$
Chateau de Fleurs
7 Soimonovskiy prospekt, building 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
Devi Café
Ded Pihto
Miklukho-Maklaya st., 21a M. Belyayevo Menu in English Cuisine: Indian, $$
City Club International
Darling, I’ll call you back ..
37/3 Myasnitskaya ulica M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$
29 bld.3, Lomonosovsky Prospekt M. Universitet Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
Chemodan Gogol Boulevard, Bldg 25, M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$
Chesterfield Building 1, 19 Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$$
Chicago Prime: Steakhouse & Bar Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$$
China Club 21, Krasina M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Author, Pan-Asian, $$$
China Garden
Cipollino
23a Taras Shevchenko Embankment M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: International, $$
Correa’s Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Correa’s 32, Bolshaya Gruzniskaya M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Cosmos Planet The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
Courvoisier
Menu in English Russian, European, Asian, Cuisine: Special menu for weight loss, $$$$
Denis Simachev
Dim Sum
12 Stoleshnikov Per. Bldg.2 M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$
3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, $$$
Da Cicco
2, Merzlyakovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $
13/12 Profsoyuznaya M. Profsoyuznaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Dacha na Pokrovke 18/4 bld.16, Pokrovsky Bulevard M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, $$$
Mezhdunarodnaya Hotel, Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Chinese
Malaya Sukharevskaya Sq. Bldg.8 M. Sukharevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
China Town
Crab House
Darbars
25/12 Lubyanka Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$
6 Tverskaya Ul. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$
38 Leninsky Pr. 16 Fl Hotel Sputnik M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: Indian, $$$
Chito Grito
12 Novinsky blvd. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Fish
11 Trubnikovsky pereulok M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Geogian, $$
Chito Grito 22 Narodnaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $
Cutty Sark
DeFAQto 30/2 str.1, Bol.Lubyanka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: American, European, Indian, $$$
Dellos Delivery
7, Bolshoy Strochenovsky M. Serpukhovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
Daikon Sushi & Noodle House 12 Prospect Mire Bldg 1 Cuisine: Sushi
Das Kapital
Dioskuria
Divas 10 Strastnoy Boulevard, Building 2 M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, French, Russian, International, $$
Dodo 21/2 Petrovka M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Dolls 23b Krasnaya Presnya, Building 1 M. Krasnopresnenskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$
Building 1, 6/9/20 Rozhdestvenka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: European, German, $$
Dom Karlo
De Marco
Don Ivan
Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: European, International, Seafood, $$$
10 Yaroslavskoe shosse M. VDNKh Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$
6 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$$
See any information that is not correct? These listings are for you, so to help us to help you please send us the corrections. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru We might even reward you!
66
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Don Macaron
Duma
Etage
Free Bar People
53, Lusinovskaya M. Serpukhovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
11 bld 3b, Mokhovaya M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
26/1 Trubnaya St. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: European, $
Don Pedro
Due Soldo
9/28 Pyatnitskaya M. Novokuznetskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$
9 Spiridonievsky lane M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$
33/4 Narodnogo opolcheniya M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Cuisine: European, Italian, $
Don’t Tell Mama 5, Putnikovskiy bol. per M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$
Donna Klara 21/13, Malaya Bronnaya M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Donna Margarita 2 bld.1, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: Home, Italian, $$$
Doolin house 20 Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
Dorian Gray 6/1 Kadashevskaya nab. M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$
Doucet X.O. 31 Novinsky boulevard, Trading Center ТNovinskyТ M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, $$
Drevny Kitai 5/6 bld.4, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, $$
Durdin Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Russian, $$
Emporio Armani Caffe 3, Red Square M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$
Etage 89 Dmitrovskoye shosse, Trading Center ТXLТ M. Petrovsko-Razumovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Etage 2aya - Brestskaya 52/1 M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Eva
41a Vyatskaya ul. M. Dmitrovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
31 Marshala Rokossovskogo bulvar M. Ulitsa Podbelskogo Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Medeterian, Italian, French, Japanese, $
Ecle
Evoo
5 Oktyabrskaya St. M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$
15, Kosygina (Korston hotel) M. Vorobyovy Gory Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$
Esperanto Lounge Bar
Est-Caffe
FM Café 11 Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Europeane, $$
Friends Forever 25, Nikolskaya St. M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: American, Italian, $$
Filini Bar & Restaurant 26, 3 ulica Yamskogo polya M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
French Café 3 Smolenskaya Pl. M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$
Friends Forever 18, Kozijinsky per. M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, Italian, $$
40 Pokrovka St. M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $
Exhibition
Eat & Talk
15, Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. M. Vystavochnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Indian, $$$
Favorite Pub
Farsi
24, Spiridonovka M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$$
2/1 Kutuzovskiy prospect M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Iranian, $$$
Flat Iron Bar & Roadhouse
Five Spices
7 Mohovaya St. M. Borovitskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
El gauchito 48, Kutuzovskiy pr. M. Slavyansky Bulvar Menu in English $$$
Ex Libris 6 str.1 Bobrov per. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Druzhba
Elky-Palki
4, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$$
Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
Dukhan Alaverdy
Etage
23-25/2 Gruzinsky Val. M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$
bld. 1, 14 Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
6 Pevchesky Per
Extra Lounge
7,Voznesenskiy per. M. Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Menu in English Cuisine: American, Russian, Mexican, $$$
Free Bar 21-23 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$$
Fusion Plaza
3/18, Sivtsev Vrazhek Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, Thai, $$
Flei 8 bld.2, Lyalin Pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Farm products, Home, $$
67
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Focaccia
Gandhara
Good Beef
Hachapuri
3 Kozitsky per. M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, $$
15 bldg.7, Rochdelskaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Pakistani, $$$
7 Ukrainskiy Bul. M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
Fonda
15-17 bld1, Bolshoi Cherkassky Pereulok M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: Steaks, $$
1/4 bld.2, Smolensky Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Armenian, $$
Goodman 57 Leninskii Prospekt M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $$$$
4, Sytinsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Spanish, $$
Gorki
Happiness
1/3, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $
5, Bolshoi Putinkovsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, – onfectionery, $$
2 str.90 Ugreshskaya St. M. Dubrovka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$
French cheese hole 15-17 Bolshoi Cherkasskii Per. M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: French, $$$
Frendys 28/6 bld.3, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: American, $
Fusion Plaza WTC, 12 Krasnopresnenskaya Nab Cuisine: Indian / European
Giovedi 26 Ozerkovaya nab. M. Novokuznetskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Giardino di pino 30/1 str.1 Obrucheva St. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Italian, $
Ginkgo by Seiji 3 Tverskaya, The Ritz-Carlton M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$
G Graf
8, 4th Dobryninsky Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$$$
Galereya 27 Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$
Gallery 27, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Menu in English Author’s, Asian, European, Italian, Russian, French, Cuisine: Japanese, $$$
68
Gayane’s
Genatsvale 11 bld.2, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
Genatsvale 12/1, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$
Gin-no Taki 6 Tverskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$
Gino Taki 6 Tverskaya Ul. Bldg.1 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$
Gino Taki 58 Bol. Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$
Giovedi Café 26, Ozerkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Godunov
GQ Bar
Hamon and Wine
5, Balchug M. Novokuznetskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Asian, european, russian trend, $$$
Happiness
Grand Cru
Harbin
8 bld.1, Presnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$
5 bld.1, Prospekt Mira M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Greenwich Pub
66, Niznyaia Pervomaiskaya M. Pervomaiskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, $$
52/5, Kosmodamianskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Pub Food, $$
Gusyatnikoff 2a Aleksandra Soljenicina St. M. Taganskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$$
Help Bar
5/1, Teatralnaya Square M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$
27 bld1, Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$
Gogol-Mogol
Hachapuri
6 Gagarinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
2/1 Shluzovaya Nab., bld. 7 M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
Golicin
Hachapuri
bld. 4, 15 Staraya Basmannaya M. Krasnye Vorota Menu in English Russian $$
10 Bolshoy Gnezdnikovskiy Per. M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $
3, Kamergersky pereulok M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Confectionery, $$
Harbin
Hard Rock Café 44, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
Hiro bld. 32, 31 Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Thai, $$
Hugo 39, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: French, $$$
Hungry Duck Sadovaya-Chernogryskaya 8/2 M. Krasnye Vorota Menu in English Cuisine: International
Hunter Golovinskoe shosse 1a M. Vodny Stadion Cuisine: European, $$
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants HuntsmanТs House and Safari Lodge 32 Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Menu in English Cuisine: German, $$$
Hyppocratus 2-3 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Frunzenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, Russian, $
I Like Bar
IL Forno
Ju-Ju
Kampus
3/14 Ostojenka ul. M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
15, Smolenskiy Boulevard M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Author’s, Home, draw-heavy oven, $$$
Multiple Cuisine: European, Eastm $$
IL Forno 8/10 Neglinnaya ul. M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
IL Kamino
21, Shukhova St. M. Shabolovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
4 Bld.4, Bolshoi Kozlovsky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Menu in English Cuisine: European, Swiss, $$$
Iskra Café-bar
Il Patio
36 Bol.Novodmitrievskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$
Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Illarion
20/2 Pyatnickaya ul. M. Novokuznetskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $
5 Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $
Inzhir Multiple Cuisine: Uzbek, $$
IST Buffet 16 Novoslobodskaya Ul. M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Asian, $$
Ichiban Boshi Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$
IL Camino 4B bld.4, Kozlovskiy Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, French, $$$
Il Capriccio Building 4, 92 Lobachevskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Illarion
Illarion 119 Mira prospect,pav.67 VVC M. Botanichesky Sad Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $
Indabar 24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Uzbek, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, $
Jukovka 41/1 Marshala Jukova pr. M. Polezhayevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Mediterranean, Italian, European, $$$
Kamchatka 7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $
Karaoke Boom 46 Novoslobodskaya M. Mendeleyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, Russian, $$$
Karma Bar
3 Pushechnaya St. M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$$
Katies Groholsky Pereulok 26, Building 5 M. Prospect Mira Menu in English Cuisine: Irish, $$
Kasbar
Krick 16, Strastnoi Bulvar M. Chekhovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$
Kruzhka Multiple M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: European, $
Kruzhka 15 Nikolskaya ulitsa M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Menu in English Cuisine: Beer Bar, $$
Kalina Café 17 Prechistenskaya Nab. M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, Russian, $$
Kogo Fragola
12a Suzdalskaya St. M. Novogireyevo Cuisine: European, Japanese, $
Konigs Platz 1a str.2 Kozitskiy per. M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $$
7/5, Pushechnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, $$
Building 5, 3 Turchaninov Per. M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Arabic, European, French, International, Japanese, Seafood, $$
Isola
Katie O Shea’s
Kabinet
23 A Tarasa Shevhenko Emb., Bashnya M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$
Groholsky Per 25, Bldg 5 M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: Irish, $$
Building 4, 15 Malaya Kaluzskaya M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$
Jourbon
25, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: European, Asian, Russian, $$$
Insolito
81, Vavilova Street M. Universitet Cuisine: International, $$$
Kitaisky Letchik Jao Da
Kabanchik 27 Krasina St. M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, European, $
Kalinka УCosmosФ Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
69
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Kapri
Khlestakov-Traktir
Kolkhi
Lawson’s Bar
7 Saharova Pr. M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$
Build.1, 9 3rd Frunzenskaya St. M. Frunzenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, Fusion, Russian, $$
1/1 Leningradsky Pr. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$
14/6, Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Komi
Life Pub
62 Volokolamskoe shosse M. Sokol Cuisine: Russian, $$
20 Fr. Engelsa M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Koonjoot
Lisya Nora
36a Berejkovskaya nab. M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Eastern, $$
2 Dayev Per. M. Sukharevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Krambambula
Lobby Bar
352 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Menu in English Cuisine: Belarussian, $$
28 Tverskaya ul. M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Kruaj
Luch
4 Prechistenka St. M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
27 bld.1, Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Coctails, $$
Kruazh
Le Gateau
4, Prechistenka M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$$
24/27, SadovayaSamotechnaya M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, $$
Kare 42 str.1 Dmitriya Ulyanova St. M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$
Khorosho Sidim 17 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Georgian, $$
Karetny Dvor
Khram Drakona
52/1, Povarskaya Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Azeri, Caucasian, Georgian, $
37 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, $$
Kavkazskaya Plennitsa
55 bld 1, Mitinskaya M. Mitino Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$
36, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
Kebab City 5 Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$
Ketama 5/6 Bol. Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Middle Eastern, Moroccan, $$
Ketama Bar 5/6 str.5 Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: European, Moroccan, $$
Khajuraho 14, Shmitovsky Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: European, Indian, $
Khinkalnaya 15, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Georgian, $$
Khinkalnaya 71, Bolshaya Ordinka M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$
Khinkalnaya 11, Trubnikovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$
70
Kioto
Kish-Mish 28, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Uzbek, $$
Kitaisky Kvartal 12 bldg.1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, $$$
Kitezh 23/10 Petrovka St. M. Chekhovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
Kleopatra 2a 1905 Goda Ul., Bldg. 2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$$
Knyaz Bagration 58 Pluscgikha M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$
Kolbasoff
Kuhmeister Build.1, 47 Piatnitskaia M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, $$
Kult 5 Yauzskaya emb. M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$$$
Kurshevel 7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Panasian, French, $$$$
Kuznetsky Most 20
Multiple M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian
20, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
Kolbassoff
Kvas
Multiple M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$
20 SadovayaChernogryazskaya St. M. Kurskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$
Les 10/7, Rozdestvensky Boulevard M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Coffee, European, $
Ludi kak ludi 1/4, Solyansky Tupic M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Confectionary, $
Lyustra 11/1, Vorotnikovy Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, International, $$
Lazzetti 4 Nogorniy bul. M. Nagornaya Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $
Lemonade 7 Kievskaya St. M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Letto Club
La Maree
Liga Pap
Louisiana Steak House
33 str.1 Povarskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $
Malaya Gruzinskaya ul., 23 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$
24, Bolshaya Lubyanskaya M. Sretensky Bulvar Cuisine: European, Italian, Spanish, $$
30 Pyatnitskaya, bldg.4 M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
LТAltro Bosco Café
La Stazione
Light House
Luce
10 Petrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$
18/1 Olympiysky Prospekt M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
7 kor.1 Michurinskiy pr. M. Universitet Cuisine: Italian, $$$
5B, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Latuk
21, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$
La Bottega Siciliana
Lavash
2 Ohotniy Ryad St. (Moscow Hotel) M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
2, Okhotny Ryad M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
7 Tsvetnoi Bul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Armenian, $$$
La Cantina
23, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, $$
La Bottega
5, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$
La Delizia 56a Sevastopolskiy prospect M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Caucasian, $$$
La Gourmet 1/3 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Caucasian, $$$
La Luna 69 Sadovnichevskaya nab. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, International, Japanese, $$
La Mancha 12a Kravchenko ul. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$
La Maree 28/2 Petrovka St. M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Seafood
La Maree 201 Zhukovka, Odintsovsky District M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
1/15, Yauzskaya M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: vegetarian, $$$
Le Gateau
Le Gateau 2 bld.1, Paveletskaya Square M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, $
Leningrad 21/40 Kalanchevskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Les Menus Par Pierre Gagnaire 8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, $$$$
Lex—lubCafé 2 kor.2 Balaklavskiy Pr.( Aridan) M. Chertanovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, European, Caucasian, $
Lig Pap B.Lubyanka ulitsa 24 M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Lilit
LiLu
Luciano 3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Author’s, $$
Sireneviy bulvar 25a M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Caucasian,European, Russian, $$
Ludvig
Limonchello
LТAlbero
4 Komsomolskii Prospekt M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$
Linderhof
3/1 Marshala Vasilevskogo St. M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Czech, European, German, Russian, $$ Delegatskaya Str., 7 M. Novoslobodskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
Korpus 1, 7 Lomonosovskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, German, Vegetarian, $$
Mandarin Combustible
Little Japan
Mayak
12a, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$
19/3, Bolshaya Nikitskaya M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$
Lobby Bar 28 Tverskaya St. (Mariott Grand Hotel) M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
Look In! 9 Bolshaya Dmitrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Los Bandidos 7 Bolshaya Ordynka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$$
2 Mal. Cherkasskiy Per. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, American, Asian, $
Mayashi 24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $
Martinez bar 1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Maxim bar 15, Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
McDonaldТs Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: American, $
Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
71
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Mio DJ Café
Mario
More vnutri
Navarro’s Bar & Grill
1, Kaluzskaya Square M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, Italian, $$
17 Klimashkina Ul. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
23, Shmitovskiy Proezd M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, Latin American, $$
Modus
Market
7, Pesochnaya alleya, Park Sokolniki M. Sokolniki Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $$
vl.4, 1 Truzjennikov per. M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$$
18 bld.1, SadovayaSamotechnaya M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Seafood, Asian, Chineese, $$$
Mr. Lee 7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Panasian, Author’s, $$$
15 bld.2, Tverskoy Bulvar M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Author’s, Pan-Asian, $$$
Marocana
Myasnoi club
Nobu
19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Creative, Meat, $$$
B.Dmitrovskaya 20/1 M. Chekhovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Japaneese, $$$$
Myasnoy Club
Noev Kovcheg
11 Petrovka St.
19 str.1 Kuznetskiy Most St. M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
Maxima Pizza
Nightflight
9 Maly Ivanovsky pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$
62 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya Ul. M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
78, Leningradsky Pr. M. Sokol Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $
17 Tverskaya Street M. Pushkinskaya +7 495 4165 Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Madam Galife
Megu
Neolit (Kristina)
26/1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$
8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$
Novoi
Madam Boulange
Merkato
9/1 Altayskaya St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, Russian, European, French, Caucasian, $$
12, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Confectionery, French, $
9, Krymskii Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Italian, $
News&More
Maestro de Oliva
4/5, Plotnikov Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $
Mega moll-2 M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: Spanish, $$
38, Leninsky Prospect M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Maharaja
Michaels
2/1 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: Indian, $$
Tverskoi Bulvar 7 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, European
Maison Elitaire
38, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Moo-Moo 1a, Square of Europe M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $
Muzey 52 str.7 Kosmodimianskaya nab. M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Austrian, $$$
Macaroni
1 A, 37/43 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya St. M. Sportivnaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, Mediterranean, $$$
72
1/15, Kotelnicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Taganskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Moroccan, $
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
Mestiere
Milk and Honey
MinSelHoz 5, Petrovka M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Home, $
11 Novinskiy bul. M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, American, $$
N Café 87/89 Leninskiy Pr. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $$
Na Melnitse 24, Sadovaya-Spasskaya M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Nabi 13, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Asian, $$$
Nedalny Vostok
Nostalgie 12A, Chistoprudny Boulevard M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$
25 Universitetskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: Uzbek, $$
NYM yoga
Octyabr 24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, European, $
Ogonek 5/2, Potapovsky Pereulok M. Sretensky Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: European, Asian, $$
Olivetta 20 Mal. Dmitrovka St. M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Osteria nel Parco
Olimp
Osteria Montiroli
Pattaiya
9, Krymskiy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $
24 Luznetskaya Embankment M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Russian, $$
Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
14, Bol. Sukharevskaya Square M. Sukharevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Thai, Chineese, $$
Oсakbasi
Oliva
Osteria Montiroli
Pelman
10 str.2 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Turkish, East, $$
3/5, Smolensky Boulevard M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Middle Eastern, $$
Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
O2 Lounge
Olivetta
Osteria Numero Uno
20 bld.1, Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Caucasian, Japanese, Chinese, $
20 Malaya Dmitrovka Ul M. Pushkinskaya $$$
2, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Polyana
Ostozhye
Presnya Café
40/1 Ostojenka ul. M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$
7, Stolyarniy Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$
3, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$$
Oblaka 48 Kutuzovskiy pr. M. Slavyansky Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
Oblomov 5, Monetchikovskyi 1-iy Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, European, $$$$
Ogorod 30/2 Prospekt Mira M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Old Batum 7, Academika Bochvara St., bld.1 M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$
Old Berlin 25 Arbat St. M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: German, $$
Old Havana Talalihina St. 28/1 M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: Cuban, $$
Old Man Muller Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: German, $$$
Olympos 13 Akademika Korolyova St. M. VDNKh Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Om Café 15/1 Novy Arbat Ul. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Thai, $$
Otkrity Mir
Onegin
Paparazzi
12/2 Prechistenka St. M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
3 Pyatnitskaya St. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, American, $$
Orange CowТs House
Pacha
18 Pavlovskaya St. M. Tulskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
4 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: East, European, Caucasus, $$$
Oriental Tale
18, Pavlovskaya M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Indian, $
22 D Frunzenskaya Embankment M. Frunzenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, $
Plotnikov Pub
Osteria Da Cicco
Pochtmeyster
3, Banniy Pereulok M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $$
47/23, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $
Osteria della Piazza Bianca
21/1 Pravdy St. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $$
5A, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
Plotinikov pereulok 22/16 M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Pravda 21
75 A Udalcova St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Europe, East, $$
Pachito Bar 10, Nikolskaya street M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, $$
Palati Nu Café 11/13 str. 1 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Papa’s place 22, Myasnitskaya street M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: American, European, Italian, $$
Paradise 2a Nagornoe Shosse M. Planernaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$
Piccolino 11 1st Kolobovsky Pereulok M. Trubnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Post Scriptum 42b Miklukho-Maklaya St. M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$
See any information that is not correct? These listings are for you, so to help us to help you please send us the corrections. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru We might even reward you!
73
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Prospektbar
Parisienne
Pino-Pizza
Pomest’e
42 str.2a, Shepkina ul. M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$
31/9, Leningradsky Pr. M. Dinamo Menu in English Cuisine: French,European, $$$$
73 Volgogradsky Prospect M. Tekstilshchiki Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Pasta Mama
Pino-Pizza
12/9, Spiridonevsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
32 Perovsky St., bld. 1 M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$
Tamanskaya 46 M. Polezhayevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, Caucasian, European, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$
Pavilion
23 Bolshaya Bronnaya St., bld. 1 M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$
Palazzo Ducale 3 Tverskoy Boulevard M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$$
Paluba 8 Berezhkovskaya nab. M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, Turkish, $$$
PanAziat 14, Olimpiisky Pr. M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Asian
Pancho Villa 52, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Mexican, $$
Pane & Olio Pizzeria 38 Bldg 1. Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Pane & Olio Trattoria 22, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Panorama 5 Smolenskaya St. (Hotel Golden Ring,2st floor) M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
Papa JoeТs
7 bld.1, Bolshoy Patriarshiy Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$
Pechki-Lavochki 10 Nizhnyaya Radishchevskaya Street M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $
Peking Duck 24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Vegetarian, $$$
Peperoni 17, Petrovka M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Pepper 9 1st Proezd Perovo Pole M. Perovo Cuisine: European, Italian, $
Peshi Kutuzovskiy prospekt 10 M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Mediterranean, Italian, Fish, $$$$
Pino-Pizza
Pinocchio 23 A Naberejnaya Trasa Shevhenko M. Mezhdunarodnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Pizza Amore
Porter House 20 Arkhitektora Vlasova St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $$$
Porto Chervo 24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $
Porto Maltese
Pizza Express
Porto Maltese
17 Tverskaya St. M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $
Multiple Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$
Pizza Hut 17 Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: American, Italian, $$$
Pizzeria il Pomodoro 54 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$
Planet Sushi Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$$
Peshi 10 Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Seafood, $$$
Pokrovskie vorota
Papa JohnТs
Petrovich
Polo Club
Multiple Cuisine: American, $
24/3, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$
11/12, Petrovka M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
19 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Tibetan, $$$
Build. 1, 17 Petrovka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, Vegetarian, $$$
Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
74
Berezhkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$
43 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $
Building 26, 1A Nikoloyamskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: American, Latin American, Mexican, $$
Paper Moon
Ponton
3 Varvarka Ul. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$
Porto Maltese 21 Pravda St. M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$
Porto Maltese 11 Leninsky Prospect St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$
Porto Maltese 31 A Leningradsky Prospect St. M. Dinamo Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$
Porutshik Rzhevsky Build. 4, 4 Bolshoy Tolmachevsky Pereulok M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Fusion, Russian, Vegetarian, $$
Poslednyaya Kaplya 4 Strastnoi Bul., Bldg. 3 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Praga
Radio City Bar & Grill
2/1, Arbat M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Brazilian, European, International, Japanese, Russian, $$$$
5, Boshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$
Prego Pizza & Pasta 6, Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Prichal Ilyinskoe Shosse, 2km M. Krylatskoye Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Uzbek, Italian, $$$
Prime Star
Ragout 16, bld.5, Olimpiisky Prospect M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Ragout 69 Bolshaya-Gruzinskaya ulitsa M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Rakhat Lukum 9 Bol. Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Uzbek, $$$
77 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya naberezhnaya (Aurora) M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Mixed, $$
Razguliay
Prince
12 Krasnopresnenskaya Embankment M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: British, $$
16 Kashirskoe Shosse M. Kashirskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Russian, $$$
Probka 2 Tsvetnoi Bulvar M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Italian
Rock ‘n’ Roll Bar 1 Sretenka Ul M. Chistye Prudy
Riverside Café 29, Serebryanicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Kurskaya Cuisine: european, $$
Real Food Restaurant 12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. (Crowne Plaza Moscow World Trade Centre) M. Vystavochnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$
11 Spartakovskaya St. M. Baumanskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$
Red Lion
Red Point 7 Autumn Avenue (Osenny bulvar) M. Krylatskoye Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, Seafood, $$
Restaurant-vinoteca Dissident 25 Nikolskaya str, Nautilus Shopping Center, 5th floor M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$$
17/1 Neglinnaya ulitsa M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Mediterranean, Russian, European, $$
Revolutsiya
Romanov Restaurant
40, Novokuznetskaya M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Home, $$$
17 Bldg 1, Neglinnya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, Russian, Meditarrian, $$$
Rialto
Roni
9/11 Bolshoy Fakelny Lane M. Marksistskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Asian grill, $$$
10/2, Tryokhprudny Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, European, $$$
Rosemary
Ribny Bazaar
Richard Lion Heart 29 Michurinsky Prospekt M. Universitet Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Rio-Grande No.19 Zeleny Prospekt M. Perovo Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Mexican, $
Rio-Rio 16 Krasnopresnenskaya Emb. M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Brazilian, European, $$$$
Red Sails
River Side
66 Aviationnaya Street M. Shchukinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
10 Mantulinskaya St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: European, Chineese, Japaneese, International, $$$
Red Square 1 Krasnaya ploschad M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
Reka 6 bld.2, Bersenenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Red & White
Restaurant Moschoice
15 Lesnaya St. (Hotel Holiday Inn) M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$
15 Kosygina St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $
Romanov
Riviere 4, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, $$$
Roberto 20 Rozhdestvenskii Bulvar M. Sukharevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
26 Nikoloyamskaya M. Taganskaya Menu in English Cuisine: French, International, Italian, $
Royal Family 15 Ul. Kosygina (Hotel Orlyonok) M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: Korean, $
Royale 21/1 Begovaya St. (in the Hippodrome building) M. Begovaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $
Ryba 4 Nashekinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, $
Rybatskaya Derevnya All-Russia Exhibition Center, Selskohozyaistvennaya St. M. Botanichesky Sad Cuisine: Georgian, Russian, $$$
Rytsarsky Club 28 Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
Roll Hole
Smotra Bar & Restaurant
3 Holodilnyy Per. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Vegetarian, $
66 Leningradskiy pr. M. Aeroport Cuisine: European, Japanese, $
75
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Sanduny
Scandinavia
Saigon
Shantil
14 str.4, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Russian, Uzbek, $$
7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Skandinavian, $$
39 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ul. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Vietnamese
57, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$$
Sakhili
Sharabara
6 Bolshoi Karetny Per Bldg 1 M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
29/3 Lomonosovskiy pr. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Menu in English Cuisine: Eastern, European, $$
Scotland Yard
Sky Lounge
34 bld.1, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Pub Food, $$$
32a Leninskiy Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$
Shamrock bar
11 str.1 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Irland, $$
Silvers Irish Pub 5/6, Nikitsky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Pub food, $$
Secret place 4 str.1 Kaloshin per. M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $
Small Pub 6 Mira Prospect M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$
Shokoladnica Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Sixties diners 16/2 str.2 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, American, $
Skazka
SQUARE 60 str.1 Brestkaya 1st St. M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, English, $
Sweet Home Café
2, Ryazansky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, $
Sandik
Shatush
Shyolkovskoe shosse 68 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Uzbek, $$
17, Gogolevsky Boulevard M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, European, Japanese, Tai, $$$$
27, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$$
Shchisliva
Uilliam’s
Savoy
Shinok
20 Mal. Bronnaya M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Savoy Hotel, 3 Rozhdestvenka M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$$
White Rabbit
Sayani
Shore House
3 Smolenskaya Pl. M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$
Ural’skaya 5 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Crocus City (66 km MKAD) M. Myakinino Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, $$$
02 Lounge 3 Tverskaya The Ritz-Carlton Moscow M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$
1/11 Burger Bar
Starbucks
1001 night
Multiple location Menu in English Cuisine: american, $
31 kor.1, Bratislavskaya ul. M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $
76
Shashlichnaya #1
Saperavi
15/2, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
1, Stroginskoe shosse M. Strogino Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
6 bld.1, Bolshoi Karetny Pereulok M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $
14/2 str.1, Myasnitskaya M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
56 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $
Superbeach
Sakhli
Sahara 1 Shcholkovskoe shosse M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$
Scandinavia Restaurant 7, Maly Palashevsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Swedish, $$$
Seiji 5/2, Komsomolsky Prospect M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$
Serafina 15/1 Rodchelskaya ulitsa M. Krasnopresnenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Seven Fridays 6, Vorontsovskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, French, $$$
Shanti 2/1 Myasnitsky ProMenu in Englishd M. Krasnye Vorota Menu in English Cuisine: Vietnamese, $$$
Volhonka ul 9 M. Kropotkinskaya
Shvarcvald Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
Simple Pub Smolenskaya Ploshad 6 M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Sindbad 14, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Lebanese, Middle Eastern, $$
Sirena 15, Bolshaya Spasskaya M. Sukharevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$
Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Sisters Grimm
Starlite Diner
Tequila Bar & Boom
Tanuki
11, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Author, European, $$
9a, Korovy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
4, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Mexican, $
Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$
Starlite Diner
Tri kabana
8a, Strasnow Bulevard M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
34 kor.2 Ryazanskiy pr. M. Ryazansky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
20/2 Trubnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Spanish, $$$$
Starlite Diner
Trubadur
Tapa’rillas Tapas Bar
2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
4/3 bld.3, Strasnoy Boulevard M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Spanish, $$
Timeterria LiPeople
Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$
Sky Lounge 32а Leninskii Prospekt M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$
SOHO Rooms 12/8 Bolshoi Savvinsky Nab. M. Sportivnaya Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$$$
Sombrero
16/5, Bolotnaya Square M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
51a Bolshaya Polianka M. Polyanka Menu in English Cuisine: French, Italian, Mexican, Russian, Serbian, $$$
Starlite Diner
Soup Café
Steyks
62/25 1st Brestskaya, bldg.3 M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
21 Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$
Sovok Café
Strudel Café
4, 1st Shchipovsky Per M. Serpukhovskaya Cuisine: Russian
Stakan 3/3, Teatralniy pr. M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$
Staraya Usadba 29a, Metallurgov ul. Perovo Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
Starbucks/Koffee Sirena LLC УSevernoe Siyanie business center 11th floor, 26 Pravdy street
Stariki 13 str.2, Bol.Lubyanka M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Starlite Diner 6, Vernadskogo Pr M. Universitet Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
16 Bolshaya Sadova M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
4, 2nd Shemilovsky pereulok M. Novoslobodskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Pizzeria, $
T-Bone Pyatnitskaya Ul. 52, bldg. 2 M. Polyanka Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$
T.G.I. Friday’s
Tapa De Comida
Taras Bulba
Tatler club 2/1, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$
Tavern Admiral Benbau
26 Malaya Bronnaya Ul, Bldg 1 M. Pushkinskaya
Multiple location Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
Building A, 52 Sudostroitelnaya St. M. Kolomenskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$
Suliko
Taisky Slon
Tel Aviv
42/2 Bol. Polyanka M. Polyanka Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
25 Khoroshevskoye Shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$$
30/1, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Israeli, $$$
Super Mario
2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, $$$
Terrace
Take
Terrace
No.20, 60-Letia Octyabrya Prospekt M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$
The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
41 Gastello St. M. Sokolniki Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, $$
Sushi-Bar Kiot Krymsky val, 10 M. Oktyabrskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$
Tancy
Takasa
Talavera
11, Nicolskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, $$
2 Europe squar (RadIsson Slavyanskaya Hotel) M. Kiyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Temple Bar
Taliesin
Multiple M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
26 Valovaya M. Paveletskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
13 Uglichskaja St. M. Altufyevo Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Thai Elephant 25 bld,1, Horoshevskoe shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Eastern, European, Thai, $$$
The Hudson bar 10, Butirsky Val M. Belorusskaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, European, $$
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Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants The Old School Pub 15, Bol. Cherkasskiy M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
The Pink Cadillac 4-6, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ulitsa M. Barrikadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: American, $$
The Real McCoy 1, Kudrinskaya Square M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Tex mex, European, $$
Tiflis 32 bld.2, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Menu in English Cuisine: Georgian, $$$
Time Out Bar 5, Sadovaya ulitsa Hotel pekin M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Tinkoff 11, Protochny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$
Traktir Chyornaya Koshka 6 Vorontsovskaya Ul. M. Taganskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$
Trattoria Venezia 9 bld.3, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$
Trattoria Venezia
4/3 bld.3, Strastnoi Bulevard M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$
Trattoria Venezia 17, Shabolovka M. Shabolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$
Truffaldino 20 Marksistskaya Ul., bldg 1 M. Taganskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$
Tsarskaya Okhota 186a, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse M. Krylatskoye Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, Hunting, $$$
TsarТs Hunt
105 Pr. Vernadskogo, 1 M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Cuisine: Vietnamese
186a Zhukovka, RublyovoUspenskoye Shosse, 9 kilometers from MKAD M. Krylatskoye Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$$
Tommy D Gastro Bar
Tsifry
Tom
1, Tretyakovsky Proyezd M. Lubyanka Menu in English Cuisine: International, $$$
40 bld.2, Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$
Tonino Lamborghini Boutique Caffe
Tsimmis
19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Menu in English Cuisine: Author’s, Home, European, Italian, $$$
Torro Grill Multiple Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
3, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Jewish, $$$
Tunnel 7 Lubyansky Proezd M. Lubyanka Menu in English American, European, Cuisine: International, Japanese, $
Tutto Bene
Uzbehka
8, Presnenskaya nab., bld.1 M. Vystavochnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
23/10 Petrovka St. M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$
Tverbul
Uzbekistan
24 Tverskoy bul. M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$$
29/14 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Arabic, Azeri, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$
Twin Pigs
Vi Ai Pi Bar
19a Akademika Koroleva St. M. VDNKh Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, Japanese, Philipino, $$$
21 Savvinskaya Nab
Tyrandot 26/5, Tverskoy bulvar M. Tverskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$
Ub Café
Vapiano 26 bld.1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$
Vanil 1, Ostozhenka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Menu in English Russian, French, Japanese, $$$
40 Dolgorukovskaya St. M. Mendeleyevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Medeterrian, $$
Vanilla Sky
U Shveika
Vapiano
2, Barrikadnaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Czech, European, $$
26/1 Prospekt mira M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Ugra
Vatrushka
5/14 Porechnaya St. M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Bolshaya Nikitskaya 5
Un Sun 9, Achsheulov Pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Korean, $
Unicum 10 2nd Tverskaya-Yamskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: French, $$$
Usadba in Archangelskoe Arсhangelskoe Settlement M. Tushinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $$$
Build.3, 11-13 Nikolskaya St. M. Okhotny Ryad Menu in English Cuisine: European, Russian, $$
Venice 16 Spartakovskaja Square M. Baumanskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Italian, Mixed, $$$
Veranda u Dachi 70, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$
Vesna 19, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Author’s, Italian, Cuisine: Mediterranean, Japanese, $$$
Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru
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Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Veterok
Who is Who (Karaoke)
Yolki Palki
Zolotoi Drakon
24, Gorki-2 village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse Menu in English Cuisine: Home cooking from Arkady Novikov, $$$
15a Oruzjeyniy per. M. Mayakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$
Multiple M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, $
15a Kalanchevskaya M. Komsomolskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Chinese, $$
Vinil
Wok Express
Yapona Mama
Zolotoi Kupol
13 str.2 Sadovaya-Spasskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$
26 Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Asian, $$
4 Smolensky Bulvar. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$
10/2, 10-Gorky township, Rublyovo-Uspenskoye Shosse M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Caucasian, $$$
Vinosyr
Wolkonsky
6, Maly Palashevsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
26, Valovaya M. Dobryninskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, French, $
Vinyl
4 Pevcheskiy Per. M. Kitay-gorod Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Vision Cocktail Hall 11 Noviy Arbat St., bld. 1 M. Arbatskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japaneese, $$$
Viskonti 28a Shipilovskaya St. M. Domodedovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Vivace 7 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Vizavi 6 Serpukhovskoy Val M. Tulskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$
Vodny 39 bld.6, Leningradskoye Shosse M. Vodny Stadion Menu in English Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$
White Café 36/9, Novy Arbat M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$
White clouds 4, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, Mexican, $
White Rabbit 6 bld.3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Russian, Haute couture, $$$
William Bass 9 Malaya Yakimanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
X.O. 25 str.1 Rusanova pr. M. Sviblovo Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $
Yan Pen 3/7, Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Korean, $$$
Vogue Café
YogaDOM
7/9, Kuznetsky Most M. Teatralnaya Menu in English Cuisine: European, $$$
1/30, Petrovsky pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: asian, indian, vegetarian, $
Yar 32/2, Leningradsky Prospect M. Dinamo Menu in English Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$
Yasniy Perec 51/23 Pervomaysky St. M. Pervomaiskaya Cuisine: Russian, International, $$
Yasumi
61a Profsoyaznaya ul. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$
Zolotoy Dar 154 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$
Zucker 12/2, Bolshoy Kozikhinsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Moroccan, Lebanese, Syrian, Persian, Bukharan, $$$
Yoko 5, Soimonovskiy prospekt M. Kropotkinskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Japanese, author’s, $$$$
Yujung 12, Krasnopresnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Menu in English Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Korean, $$
Z-Lounge 3 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$$
Zafferano 8/10, Novinsky Bulevard M. Smolenskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$$
Zafferano Vegas Mall, 25th km MKAD Menu in English Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$
Zolotaya Vobla 9 Sushchevsky Val Ul. M. Savyolovskaya Menu in English Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$
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Other Stuff
Jay Close –
the Cheese Man Max Er
nst
Russia doesn’t seem like the kind of place where people voluntarily trade in a comfortable urban life for a hard life in the countryside. But, surprising as it may seem, there are some such people, and American Jay Close is one of them. He spent 17 years working in the restaurant and club business in downtown Moscow before packing up his rucksack, putting on his Texas boots and heading up north firstly to a small village called Mashnitsa, 55 kilometres north of Moscow. He recently teamed up with a group of English farmers in a large farm 100 km north of MKAD on Gorkovskoe Shosse. MeL went to visit him.
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Why did you leave the city? I had been living in Moscow and renting apartments for 17 or 18 years. I was kind of exhausted by city life; by the pollution and the aggressive drivers and traffic jams. I came up with the idea of building a place in the countryside and growing my own vegetables. I met my wife when I was looking for logs to build a cabin. My wife and her friends helped me build a place, and we started out with just a small ‘budka,’ which is just a little shack while we built the house. Then we built a barn for the animals, because my wife wanted a cow, and we wanted kids, and we still do, but we wanted to feed them the best we possibly could. We eventually got a bull to impregnate the cow, and that one went, and we got another and another, then we started collecting sheep and goats. Then we had 7 cows and 2 bulls. When cows give birth they automatically start giving milk, so with 30 litres a day you start to think about what you can do with all this milk, especially if you haven’t got kids yet. In the new farm, we have 1500 milking cows alone, this is a huge operation. I have a separate glass-fronted cheese making plant, so people can see how the cheese is made.
Other Stuff So you got into organic cheese making almost by accident? I had no idea what I was heading into, apart from getting out of the city. When I got to Masnitsa village, I started cultivating a garden to grow my own vegetables. When I lived in California and Australia, I was always keen on gardening. I like the Russian idea of growing everything in the summer and then conserving it for use in the winter. All the babushkas do that, but in Europe and America nobody really does that anymore; you just go to the store and buy what you want. You get a lot out of this if you do it yourself and you can control the whole process. It’s like if you’re a chef, you can make the food as you want to eat it, if you go into somebody’s restaurant that’s not the way it is. You’re used to having your salads with extra cheese or tomatoes, well that’s the way we do it in the country, we do it like it’s for ourselves.
Cheeses made by Jay: Cheese 1. Fenugreek (Walnut Flavored) 2. Mixed Mustardseed 3. Italian Garden (Sundried Tomatos, Paprika, Onion, Garlic, Basil, Thyme and Pepper) 4. Celery (Leaves) 5. Ginger, Paprika, Onion, Garlic, Horseradish 6. Asparagus 7. Cayenne Pepper (Hot & Spicy) 8. Mixed Peppercorns (Black, Grey, Green, Red, Pink) 9. Basil 10. Cumin or Caraway Seeds 11. Stinging Nettle (крапива) 12. Indian Garden (Parsley, Onion, Garlic, Pepper, Curry) 13. Garden Herbs (Chives, Celery, Parsley, Onion, Garlic) 14. Feta (also available from Goats Milk) 15. Ricotta (Plain or Choice of Flavor) 16. Edam 17. Gouda 18. Cajun 19. Cottage Cheese Dairy 1. Yogurt 2. Sour Cream 3. Milk (Fresh or Pasteurized) Call Jay for details: +7 916 112 4361
What do you mean by organic cheese? We don’t give the cows any non-organic food stuffs to eat; we give them grains and whey. From 10 litres of milk, we get 1 kilogramme of cheese. But what you’re getting in the supermarket is 6 litres of milk in every kilogramme plus additives and preservatives to make it look more like cheese, so it doesn’t have that rich creamy taste that natural cheese has. Our cheese you can keep up to two years if it’s covered with wax or latex.
Who in Moscow buys this stuff? Bankers, wall-street guys, vodka dealers, my neighbours; one is an engineer, the other is a glazier. A lot of housewives, all sorts of people buy cheese. I’ve got clients who own restaurants or are accountants. The Russian mainstream market is kind of hard to break into, you have to have the right kind of connections, I don’t have them, but now I have teamed up with a larger farming business, the sky’s the limit. There are only one or two organic health food shops in the whole of Moscow, in a city of 13 million people, why is this? In the time that me and you have lived here, Moscow has changed. The changes are colossal. Some of the changes are good, some bad. Before, for example, the pensioners could live on their pensions, now they have to grow their own potatoes just to survive. They can’t afford medicines.
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Other Stuff
Artificial Intelligence? What is the Meaning of Life? John H
arrison
According to Siri: - I don’t know. But I think there’s an app for that. What is the purpose of demonstrations? - I can’t answer that right now, but give me some very long time to write a play in which nothing happens. (from www.sirifunny.com) Recent advances in computer and neurosciences seem to indicate that a major breakthrough could be made in the coming decade in the field of enabling machines to think. At least that is what the boffins tell us, but not everybody agrees. Some advocate that thought is based on experience: “No man’s knowledge here can go beyond his experience.” — John Locke. Others think that consciousness and thought exists within the realms of behaviourism, and can be learnt: “The real question is not whether machines think but whether men do.” — B. F. Skinner. In a recent radio programme on the subject of artificial intelligence broadcast by Voice of Russia, Professor Barkovsky, Doctor of Physics and Mathematics, head of the Neuroinformatics Center of Optical Neural Technologies Research Institute for System Analysis in the Russian Academy of Sciences maintained that, although we do not know how the brain works, theoretically it is possible to create artificial intelligence in a machine. Dr. Bishop, Professor of Cognitive Computing at Goldsmiths, University of London, said that he is
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very doubtful whether we will ever create a machine that can genuinely understand, let alone a computer-controlled robot that would ever be conscious. Professor Bishop referred to four papers: “I am looking at the work of the American philosopher, Hubert Dreyfus, who published a book in 1972 called ‘What Computers Can’t Do.’ He identified two main problems; one is the ‘frame’ problem, that is how to identify what is important about a problem without doing an exhaustive search, and the other is implementing common sense and reasoning. His critique was based on the work of Martin Heidegger. In 1980, the philosopher, John Searle, published an article called ‘The Chinese Room Argument,’ whereby a person in a room in which there are boxes of Chinese characters is unable to understand anything because he has no way of referring to the real experience that the characters should represent. In 1990 the Oxford mathematician, Robert Penrose, put new life into an argument by the 1960s philosopher, John Lucas, that there are certain aspects of mathematical
Other Stuff
understanding that we ourselves do not understand.” Professor Bishop himself published a paper in 2002 called ‘Dancing With Pixies,’ where he tried to show that if a computer instantiates consciousness as it executes a computer programme, then consciousness is to be found everywhere, and therefore the argument is a straw man. Professor Barkovsky accused professor Bishop of being a mathematician and therefore not being able to perceive the bigger picture. Professor Barkovsky has a team about to undertake a programme in ‘brain reversal,’ (something like reverse engineering) under the ‘2045’ project to build a holographic avatar of a human being that can continue to live after the person who it is modelled after has died. He argues that the whole issue of whether machines have consciousness or not is beside the point, but that teaching computers to understand humans is the key. Unfortunately, as professor Barkovsky himself admits, “no computers exist right now which are able to understand humans, but we hope, within ten years to solve this problem.” Professor Bishop pointed out that in 1950 the British mathematician, Alan Turin, pub-
lished a paper called ‘Computing Machinery and Intelligence.’ In that paper he outlined the ‘Turin Test’ for machine intelligence, whereby a machine is deemed intelligent if the general educated opinion is able to talk of machine thinking without fear of contradiction. Turin predicted that by the year 2000 that would have happened. We are still waiting. Professor Barkovsky claimed that serious steps have already been taken, such as the IBM ‘Watson’ artificial intelligence programme, but even here it is clear that, although Watson has been able to beat Brad Rutter, the all-time winner on the American quiz show Jeopardy, nobody would say that Watson is capable of thought, something that Hubert Dreyfus would have found difficult to believe in the 1970s. As computing power increases, computer programmes such as Watson and Siri are able to create answers to questions by searching through their data bases, and create the impression that they are doing something intelligent, but still nobody can say that an iPhone can think. This kind of computer power has useful implications for robotics, something that governments the world over are very aware of. Defense and robotics are enjoying a love affair. Projects like the US ‘The Big Dog’ project, which has to be seen (on YouTube), to be believed, are to continue. The Honda Asimo Android project is big in Japan and robotics is in vogue. But what is missing, as Professor Bishop points out, is the artificial technology controlling function, “which everybody thought would be really easy in the 1950s and 1960s.” From this point of view, the ‘2045’ project is reminiscent of bad science fiction stories, and is predicated first and foremost on the creation of a computer programme that will bring forth consciousness. “It might seem, when you are in a forest that to climb up a tree is a good idea if you want to get to the moon. But that involved a totally different technology. It seems to me we need a new approach, such as that coming from new cognitive science, in particular the ‘embodied enactive’ approach that is coming forward from modern European philosophy.” In the meantime, we can wait for the next app.
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Nightclubs
The Legend Returns.
The Hungry Duck
is Back Me
LC lub
After a 13-year absence, the Hungry Duck is back with a vengeance. Gone is the slightly dodgy, sometimes scandalous 1990s striptease bar atmosphere, and enter a new, upgraded Duck bred to thrive in today’s Russia. Doug Steele, the creator of the original Duck has done magic preserving the best of the old atmosphere and adding an upbeat, professional atmosphere. As one expat at the raucous opening night commented: “We now have a new home. It’s called the Hungry Duck.” First impressions as one enters are of being in a swanky New York bar, subdued lighting, high quality sounds and slinky girls. As the evening progresses, the entertainment takes on its own, duckland form and somehow one forgets the decoration and concentrates on enticing moving objects visible on top of the bar. The place is big, it seems to have balconies which later on fill up, and a DJ platform up in the sky somewhere. There is a huge pool/snooker area upstairs and bar areas with a view. The Hungry Duck has a theatrical atmosphere about it, perhaps because of its size. On the opening night, wires descended from the ceiling and beautiful girls performed extraordinary things on them. Open: Open 12:00 - 06:00. Address: Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya 8/2 Phone: +7 495 782 5065
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Cra wl
er
The evenings are themed, so on Thursdays you have Ladies Nights when impossibly well-muscled males strut around and send the ladies wild. On Friday the Duck celebrates the end of the working week with aplomb; with live music from 11pm. Saturday night is Go Nuts time. Many do. There is a good deal on beers, and lots of the duckland stuff that the place is famous for. The rest of the week pans out with other themed programmes. One gets the impression that the management is really trying to make this work. This place also does food, something that one overlooks until you get hungry. Food is reasonably priced and the burgers aren’t bad, however concentrating on food alone is somewhat difficult at this establishment.
Metro station: Krasnye Vorota www.thehungryduck.ru
Holes in the Wall
Pelmenya on Ulitsa Krasina Over the past few decades the central part of Moscow has changed so much that it is hard to imagine what parts of it looked like even a few years ago. Be that as it may, old timers like yours truly sometimes experience momentary flashbacks, (without taking anything) in the few parts of the city where the buildings haven’t been replaced. There was a Pivnaya there, that car salesroom used to be a publishing house, that bank was a laundrette, and so on. Very occasionally one comes across shops and eateries which still bear the same name or at least still sell the same sort of thing. These Holes in the Wall (not ATM machines) remind one of a previous era. One such place is the Pelmennaya at number 9 Ulitsa Krasina, between Tishinskaya Ploschad and Sadovaya Kudrinskaya. This is a small establishment, which has an almost parallel world look about it. Moscow just doesn’t have this kind of place any more, does it? Gone are the rubbish and cigarette ends on the floor, and drunks no longer start off the day in the right way with their morning vodkas here. But ‘Pelemennaya’ as it is simply
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sworth
ain Peter H
called; (all such establishments had the same name), hasn’t changed its pelmenni business at all. You can buy the same food and drink here as you could twenty years ago. OK, it now has bannyatype wooden panels on the wall, to ‘give it a more modern’ look, as owner Antionina Rubakova calls it. And the clients have changed. Now there are as many smartly dressed chaps from Ducat III which is just round the corner as poor pensioners and unemployed, although they are there as well. It is no longer a working-class strong hold, it is Working-Class Plus, the plus being retro. All are treated in the same nonchalant way by Sergei who manages the establishment, who has seen all sorts over the past twenty years. Things may come, like regimes and all that, but this place, which used to be Pelmennaya in Soviet times, is a Pelmennaya now and probably will be a Pelmennaya forever. Long Live Pelmenni! 100 roubles buys you 200 g of the mushy things, and you have a choice of ten different sauces from mayonnaise to vinegar. I usually buy a stomach pummelling double portion of pelmenni with Smetana. Vodka is served in good old cut glass glasses in 50g doses. There is a soup of the day and of course ‘kompot,’ hot chocolate, tea with half an inch of sugar in it. Business lunch costs 180 roubles, but I splash out and stuff myself somewhat indecently with a lunch for all of 250 roubles. The place is open from 10:00am-17:00pm, so it is not on the -pre or -after club network. Address: 9 Ulitsa Krasina. Enjoy!
Travel
Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul ddoup
Kim Wa
Coming soon!
As the days get shorter in Moscow and the temperatures drop, a change in one’s surroundings for few days can help to keep seeing the positive side of life. Where better to take a short break than Istanbul, where there is always something new to discover and the weather is more hospitable with temperatures between 13-18C. Three-hour direct flights with Turkish Airlines from Vnukova are comfortable, with a choice of three departures per day. There are a vast number of packaged tours available, but we chose to have a custom designed package from one of Turkey’s leading boutique travel companies that allow you to state your preferred requirements and receive a detailed offer. Visas, if required, are a simple formality of buying a visa sticker as you arrive. Istanbul’s Ataturk airport is modern and functions well. Our driver met us at the airport and we were whisked off to the hotel. For sixteen centuries as the legendary capital of the Byzantine, Roman, and Ottoman Empires, Istanbul has long entranced the civilized world. The only city to span two continents, it physically and metaphorically bridges the cultures and philosophies of Europe and Asia, Occident and Orient. Historically a tolerant melting pot—as the centre of Christendom for over a millennium and Islam’s seat for another 500 years—it remains home to the Patriarchate of the Eastern Orthodox Church, Sephardic Jewish heritage sites, and legacies of numerous ethnic groups. Flanking 30 kilometres of the Bosporus strait between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea, it is a linchpin for trade routes in all directions. Though no longer a capital, Istan-
www.MoscowExpatLife.ru
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Travel bul is the cosmopolitan heart of the Turkish Republic, its financial centre and most populous city. The mushrooming population exceeds thirteen million, crowding cobbled-lane waterfront villages and glass-and-steel corporate districts, spirited premier soccer matches and haute couture boulevards. Byzantium, New Rome, Constantinople, Old Stamboul. Its name has changed, but its glory endures. There are many ways to explore Istanbul but for ease and comfort we chose a private tour with a private guide. Volkan was the most amazing source of information with incredible indepth historical knowledge and such a love of his home city. His narration and stories brought the history of this city to life with facts and humour. The ‘must do’ list of sights to see is almost endless but should include: Hagia Sophia the golden-domed Byzantine church that was the centre of the Orthodox Christian world until it became a mosque in 1453 (and then a museum in 1934). Be amazed
by its riot of mosaics—masterfully detailed down to the blush in Mary’s cheeks—then walk next door to Topkapi Palace, to see the Ottoman sultans’ treasury. Then maybe on to the pavilions, where the sultans imprisoned various family members in luxurious cells or the famous Harem of the Topkapi Palace where the wives of the sultans lived, a womanly and sensual place. Don’t miss Matbah, a lavish, garden-style restaurant where the chefs have replicated centuries-old recipes with creamy bitter-almond soup and the honeydew melon stuffed with minced beef, rice, almonds and raisins are sweet and salty without too much heft. Istanbul’s legendary Spice Bazaar is a must where a hall filled with multi-coloured dunes of saffron, cloves, tea, nuts, dried fruits and lokum (Turkish delight). Sweet scents draw you ever deeper into a maze of alleyways clogged with chattering vendors. Buy a bag of sumac, a sour and locally popular spice, which most stores will vacuum-pack for you. Also recommended is a tour of the Tunel district is also something you must do, to visit the magnificent Pera Palace and the Nu Terrace.
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Travel Each of Istanbul’s conquerors left their marks on the city, often right on top of each other! Strolling through the Sultanahmet district, ancient Byzantium is several meters beneath your feet, right under Roman Constantinople, which is under the Ottoman Empire! Descend into the Basilica Cistern, a vast, column-ribbed subterranean chamber that provided water to the city during the 6th century. Not far from the cistern is the impressive 17th-century mosque of Sultan Ahmed I, with it’s amazing domes and arches, often called the Blue Mosque. Modern Istanbul also offers all the facilities of a modern city, if you prefer there are mega-stores, extensive shopping malls and a vast array of different shops still offering highly competitive prices. After the sunset call to prayer, Istanbul changes and the evenings and nights offer such a vast choice of bars, restaurants, lounges, cafes and nightclubs. A traditional Turkish tavern is called a meyhane, and the Kumkapi district features many where locals go to socialize and sip raki. Try to start each day with Turkish coffee and a simit (sesame seed bagel) with cheese, it helps get into the atmosphere of Istanbul and in the evenings explore the nightlife in the alleyways around Taksim with bars and clubs to suit every choice.
Head Office - Istanbul Barbaros Bulvari Eser Apt. 78/16 Balmumcu, Besiktas / Istanbul Phone : +90 212 288 1171 Fax : +90 212 288 1363
Cappadocia Office Yukari Mah. Goreme Cad.No:33 Uchisar / Nevsehir Phone : +90 384 219 2299 Fax : +90 384 219 2291
Contact Details Web : www.matiana.com.tr Email : info@matiana.com.tr Mobile : +90 533 201 8257 TollFree : 001-866-978-6360 Agency (Tursab) No: 4330 A proud member of Indigo Group of Companies “Boutique Style in Turkey”
Where to stay. For this trip we decided to mix old and new, to sample the history of Istanbul coupled with chic accommodation. Our first hotel was the House Hotel Nisantasi, voted one of the best boutique hotels in Europe by Conde Nast. Located in Istanbul’s most fashionable district, the design is amazing, a concept from one of Turkey’s leading designers. Within walking distance of the Bosphorus, it is bright, cheery and has wonderful service. For the last night we moved to the House Hotel Bosphorus in the Ortakoy area, a historical mansion with magnificent views over the Bay. The deluxe suite here is ingeniously decorated in a modern style that complements the origins of the house. Again, wonderful service in a lovely area. However all good things must come to an end and after a last Turkish Coffee on the balcony overlooking the Bosphorus it was time to return to Moscow! All travel arrangements in Istanbul were organized by Matiana Travel, Turkeys leading boutique travel company who can design and arrange custom-made tours to suit your exact requirements.
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Golf
Night Flight Open 2012
Golf Tournament rley
o David M
For the last fourteen years the Swedish management of the renowned Moscow nightclub has held the Night Flight Open at the Moscow Country Club in Nakhabino. The 2012 tournament was held on 7th September and fifty golfers took part, with twelve players flying in from Sweden especially for the event, for the golf and for the fun. “They make it like a tradition to come and play our tournament,” says the General Director of Night Flight, Mats Gluggen Jansson. “Everyone is welcome to play, and we do it for the fun, not for the prize table”.
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The format of the game is a 2-man scramble, in which the teams consist of two players each. After each shot, the best of the two shots is chosen and both players play from that spot until the ball is holed. The combined handicap of each team is divided by four and deducted from the gross score. This results in a leaderboard resembling a PGA tour with scores well below the 72-par of the MCC course. Disaster can strike, however, and invariably does. One Swedish pair murdered the first fifteen holes with birdies and pars, only to lose shots on the final three holes with a reckless
Golf
score of 12 on the notorious long par-5 fifth hole. Such happenings, and frequent outbreaks of hilarity from around the course, may be the result of the “vodka buggy” making its rounds of the course to marshall and encourage the players. A “shot” per hole is not an unusual occurrence! When asked about this, Mats Gluggen replied, “Vodka? At MCC we killed six bottles; in the evening at the club it’s hard to know, but quite a lot. Like all earlier tournaments we have to help some players out and into a taxi.” The day ends back at the night club on Tverskaya Street with a sumptuous Swedish buffet and the prize-giving. When the winning team were receiving their prizes, one Swedish visitor was heard asking his golf-partner: “Are they pros or just very good amateurs?” His friend had his eMenu in English in the other direction however, and asked in return: “Which are you referring to? The girls or the golfers?” The Night Flight Open is held on the first Friday in September, so the next time will be on 6th September 2013. Results Night Flight Open 2012 65,5
Second
A. Solodvinikov A. Dowling N. Jackson S. Wilson
Third
S. Conway F. Zamudio
66,25
Closest to the Pin Longest Drive
D. Morley F. Zamudio S. Brandstone P. Burman
First
Best team spirit
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Golf
RECAP OF THE 2012 GOLF SEASON AT MOSCOW COUNTRY CLUB Moscow Country Club opened the season on the weekend of May 12th. Following is a month by month recap:
in Oehrle y n n h Jo
MAY. The Opening Swing was held on
Saturday, May 19th and featured a four-man Scramble Competition. This year the teams were made up with a random draw so there was a mix of Russians, Asians, Europeans, and North Americans represented in each group.
May 20. The first of five Monthly Stableford
Competitions was held with additional competitions held in June, July, August, and September.
Later in May, more events were held including the Unicredit Russian Challenge, Round One of the Individual Match Play Championship (Gold and Silver Divisions).
May 31st. The Prestigious President
of Russia Cup was held.
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JUNE. A host of tournaments took
place in June including: The Moscow Championship (three-day amateur competition) Monthly Stableford Russia vs. The Rest of the World Delovie Lyudi Corporate Event
Golf JULY. Another full month with lots of events including:
World Golf Championships (two-day competition) July 14 and 15 was the Club Championship with Johnny Oxenham winning the event. Super Powers Tournament featured teams representing America, Europe, Russia, and Asia.
AUGUST.
August 10 and 11 was the Captain’s Cup (Hosted by Golf Captain Greg Oztemel). Other tournaments in August included: Korean Day, Monthly Stableford, Autumn 4Ball Qualifying and The United Way/Deloitte Charity Event.
SEPTEMBER.
Among the tournaments in September were: The Night Flight Open (two-man Scramble) Monthly Stableford Jubilee Classic Autumn 4Ball (two-man Better ball Competition) which took two full weekends to complete.
OCTOBER. October hosted only one event, the very Prestigious Final Swing
Tournament (two-man alternate shot competition). This was followed by the Gala Black Tie Dinner/Banquet/Prize Giving Ceremony.
In
addition to the numerous events listed above, there was a season-long Golf League, which featured nine four-man teams made up primarily of expats and Russians. In addition to the 36 regular players there were approximately 15 substitutes who filled in when regulars were out of town and unavailable. The League just completed its third successful season and is managed by co-organizers Greg Oztemel and Scott Baker. All in all, it was a fantastic 2012 golf season and we are all looking forward to an even better 2013 Season.
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Dance
MOSCOW ! S K C O R
Rock’n’roll is alive and kickin’ in Russia ! Moscow, Russia is one of the fastest growing rock ‘n’ roll scenes in the world. Like China and India in the global economy, it’s one of the biggest growth ‘economies’ in world r’n’r ! The clientele are mainly younger people. Russia has much fewer older rockers going back to the 50s or the UK Revival period of the 70s: The Communist Party and the history of the Soviet Union didn’t encourage such capitalist culture, although r’n’r developed here as elsewhere. I left the UK to live and work in Russia in 2004. The contrast that immediately struck me most between the rock’n’roll in the 2 countries was the different generations who follow the great music. Here in Russia younger people are joining and staying with it.
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Richard
Hume
The best bands here in Russia are not just cheap imitations of the Western sound— they have their own style and stand up in comparison with all but the elite bands in the West. The quality of the best groups here is excellent. See what I mean by checking out the following great Russian Bands on www.youtube.com (in the youtube search engine box add “Moscow” after each band’s name): CORAL REEFS - GREAT PRETENDERS VLADIMIR PANKRATOV AND REAL HOT BBQ - BEAT DEVILS - ALLIGATORS - RAW CATS 88 – LEX AND TEAM – HIGH TONES – GAGARIN BROTHERS The photos accompanying this article were taken at a High Tones concert at the Esse Jazz Cafe in November. The High Tones are a great example of a Russian group which can compete with the best Western bands, in terms of quality. They play red hot rockabilly—smokin’ !
Dance
I know all the above bands personally. As a lifelong Teddy Boy, I’ve been active on the rock’n’roll scene in Moscow since I arrived here. At some of the groups’ concerts, such as the Coral Reefs (best jive and swing band in Russia and Eastern Europe), I run free jive dance master classes for beginners. Jive is the ultimate rock’n’roll dance, a partner dance with a great history. “What’s a Teddy Boy ?” I hear some of you ask. The answer is, “it’s a long story” ! Descriptions vary from ‘the original youth culture rebels’ (which is true) to ‘the first juvenile delinquents’ (which is a bit unfair !). Let’s just say the Teddy Boy movement is one of the most iconic in rock’n’roll culture. Some venues in Moscow, for example the Esse Jazz Café, the Glastonbury Pub, Club Live, Club Nautilus and the Ocean Club, hold r’n’r events on a regular basis. Other clubs and venues also organise such concerts every now and then. Big name rock’n’roll bands from the West do come to Moscow to perform. The last 3 such concerts I was personally involved in, from the point of view of helping to sponsor and organise the events, involved top bands from the UK and Germany. They were:
- Black Raven from Germany, the country’s number one Teddy Boy band - The Jive Aces, the most famous jive and swing band in the UK - Furious, from Liverpool, the World’s top Teddy Boy group. All 3 groups put on unforgettable shows in Moscow. If you’d like to experience Russian rock’n’roll by going to see a live band perform, or maybe be very brave (!) and have a go at learning to dance the jive at a free class, you can contact me at richardhume.hume@ gmail.com or via my web-site at www.coopjive.co.uk So hail Russian rock’n’roll, an important member of the World’s r’n’r family! Finally, a totally unrelated rock’n’roll joke, dedicated to a band that allegedly did rock’n’roll no favours – Q: What were the worst words ever said in rock’n’roll ? A: How about we let Ringo sing one.
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Art
Konstantin Alekseevich Korovin, 1861-1939
Peter H a
I went to see the Korovin exhibition in the New Tretyakovsky Gallery in Moscow in early August, having been told that this was a must-see and it was about to close. Although I got there at 11am, early for Moscow weekday gllery-visiting, there was a long queue and the vast exhibition space was already packed out, which I suppose says something about both the quality of this artist’s work and the continual empathy for representation painting in Russia. I couldn’t stand all the people in the exhibition space that morning, because I feel that looking at paintings is something intimate. So I came back the next day at the exhibition’s opening time, at 10am. At 10am the next day the hall was already crowded. The thought crossed me that people hadn’t come to see this artist because he is well known, or because he occupies a certain place in the history of Art, they come because they actually like his paintings.
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isnwor
th
MeL thanks the Tretyakov New Gallery for the reproductions used in this article
Art
According to the blurb on the Korovin’s life at the entrance to the exhibition, Konstantin Aekseevich was one of the most successful painters at the end of the 19th and century and beginning of the 20th century. A contemporary of the cannons of pre-revolutionary Russian painting: V. Serov, I. Levitan, M. Nesterova, M. Vrubel, he is heralded to be Russia’s very own impressionist, although I found his work to be a bit of everything, including impressionism, early modernism neo-romanticism, and fauvism, but playing intellectual labelling games is sometimes boring. The paintings have that certain tactile quality about them which Russian painters never abandoned. They remind me of Whistler, of Bonnard, of... You want to look at the same painting again and again. He expressed himself in just about every visual medium there was in his day. There are paintings, drawings, theatrical decorations, ‘monumental art.’ He excelled in all of these formats. His work has that delicious acceptable wildness present in impressionist art and at the same time they ooze Russianness. After emigrating to Paris at an advanced age, he concentrated on whole series of Parisian paintings, including night scenes, which are painted in a loose, emotional way, and which I found particularly. Then he started publishing memoirs and biographies and in this he is unashamedly multi-talented.
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Art
Moscow Nights An exhibition opened in October called ‘Moscow Nights’ by an expat artist at the Petrovka Art Studio and Gallery, 26, Petrovka Street, Bldg 5, apt 102. This is a series of paintings which attempt to describe the feeling of being in Moscow at night. Exhibition can be viewed until December the 15th.
Please call The Petrovka Gallery: +7 963 612 6096
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