Moscow Expat LIfe - Issue 3 - Summer 2013 by Moscow expat Life

SUMMER 2013

DOWN UNDER BALL

THE

LONG LIVE THE KING!

BUSINESS

EXPAT FOOTBALL LEAGUE

BRITISH WOMEN’S CLUB

NOT READ!

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

INDEX Community:

6. The British Business Club 8. Down Under Ball 10. Dutch National Day 14. British Women’s Club 17. Internations

Business Clubs/Associations 18. The AEB

What’s On

19. Concerts over the summer

Kitchenette Breakfast Forum 20. Education

Sport

Charity Leaders

32. Big Brothers, Big Sisters 34. Charity Listings

Ask The Experts

36. Buying Property in the UK

Tech Watch

38 iphone vs. the Androids

What’s On 41. Contents

Health

42. The Russian Health Service 48. Fitness Centres

Travel

50. Easyjet

Retro

52. Stalingrad 55. 1990 timeline

SUMMER 2013

24. The Expat Football League 26. Russian Golf Courses 30. Rugby Sevens Update

56. The Perestroika Business

Moscow Personalities 58. Louis Gouend 62. Chet Bowling

The Front Line

64. Photographer Nathan Stowell

Ex-Expats

66. Nicolas Ollivant

Other Stuff

68. What Russians miss from home

My Moscow

70. Krasina Street and Byelorussky Station 72. Scandinavian Summer 74. Listings 94. Essential Information

Letter

T Have a great

summer!

he summer is here at last, and hasn’t it been a long time coming? There was still snow lying on the ground in the Moscow Oblast as this summer edition of Moscow expat Life went to print. The late spring helped the attendance figures at a spree of community events in April and May, culminating in the outrageous National Day celebrated by the Dutch at the Pushkin museum. This event turned into a double-whammy as it coincided with the abdication of Queen Beatrix and the inauguration of her 45 year-old son Prince Willem-Alexander as King. The Dutch community in Moscow is still recovering. Health is of concern to everybody who lives here. As part of an on-going series on health care facilities available in this city, Moscow expat Life looks at the Russian health service. Continuing this theme, we provide in this issue a comprehensive list of municipal and private fitness centres, so if you have not pumped enough iron to chase the winter blues away, or flown off to Thailand, you no longer have any choice but to head down to your local fitness centre and tune those muscles! Moscow expat Life has started holding breakfast seminars at Kitchenette restaurant, the first of which is reported on in this issue. Two long time expats; David Gilmartin and Lucy Kenyon share their knowledge of education opportunities available in Moscow for our children. If you have any suggestions for future themes, and/or would like to attend yourself, please write to me. In general we try to write about issues and themes that are of important to you, so please do get in touch.

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru 200 bicycle parks will appear in Moscow ‘in the near future’ according to the Moscow City Government web site

(parking.mos.ru) At the same time, a pilot parking metre-scheme on Petrovka, Karetny Ryad and lanes joining these roads was started in November 2012. Parking has been forbidden altogether on Tverskoi. Meter schemes will be rolled out within the garden ring over the months to come. Cost is 50 roubles an hour. Mixed reports have surfaced regarding the effectiveness of electronic payment methods. Parking on pavements is only a ‘temporary measure’ according to the government site.

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Colophon Publisher:

Kim Waddoup, kim@aigroup.ru

Editor:

John Harrison, editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Designer:

Julia Nozdracheva, designer@moscowexpatlife.ru

Researchers:

Anastasia Soldatova Aleksandra Markova Alena Kizimova Natalia Alexandrovna

Administration: Alina Kurpas Liliya Islamova

Contributors:

Olga Samsonova, Tom Wiseman-Clarke, Chet Bowling, Ilona Filimonova, David Gilmartin, Lucy Kenyon, Julia Popova, Marina Kashpar, Don Graig, Chris Helmbrecht, Chiara Pascarella, Gethin Jenkins, David Morley

Editorial Address: 3rd Frunzenskaya 5, Bldg 1, Office 1 119270 Moscow, Russia Tel +7 495 777 2577 www.MoscowExpatLife.ru info@moscowexpatlife.ru

All rights reserved Printed by Blitzprint. Moscow representative office: 127051,Moscow, Petrovsky Boulevard, Dom 10 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. TY50-01602 Moscow expat Life occasionally uses material we believe has been placed in the public domain. Sometimes it is not possible to identify and contact the copyright owner. If you claim ownership of something we have published, we will be pleased to make a proper acknowledgement.

Community

BBC

Meeting at Luzhniki

Community

he beginning of the summer was marked by a meeting of the British Business Club in an unusual location; at the Luzhniki stadium. Members and guests were transported to and from the nearest metro in a bright red double decker bus. Don Scott, the president of the BBC expressed that hosting the Rugby Sevens World Cup in Moscow in June is to be one of the biggest events that the club has ever put together, and invited everyone to attend. See information on page xxxx. Don also mentioned that St. Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day is an event celebrated both in England and Moscow! With this in mind, members of the British Business Club got down to some serious networking, aided by the generous amount of liquid refreshments supplied by the BBCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s often un-recognized sponsors.

Community Roman Sklotskly,

Executive Director, Big Brothers Big Sisters: The Down Under Ball Moscow 2013 took place on the evening of April 13 at the Moscow Monarch Renaissance Hotel. The ball raised USD95,000 for Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia, a charity organization supporting disadvantaged children. The programme for the night included 4-course meal, wine/beer/ spirits, LIVE entertainment and an auction with prizes like a luxury vacation on the ski slopes of Vail, Colorado or two return business class airfares to Australia with Etihad. Down Under Ball was attended by the Ambassador of Australia, the Ambassador of New Zealand and the Ambassador of Ireland.

Down Under Ball

Moscow 2013

Community

Peter Anderson,

Russian Australian Business Association: As the Master of Ceremonies I had many people seek me out during the night to express how much they were enjoying it. The main meal of Aussie beef flown in by Meat and Livestock Australia was a big hit with many even saying it was the best steak they had eaten in Moscow. The ball was to benefit Big Brothers Big Sisters Russia and was the most successful fund raising event in their history. The great news is the sponsors really enjoyed the evening with many vowing to return and even increase their involvement in future. The generosity of our guests was tremendous and I think the video messages from Big Brothers Big Sisters in Australia and New Zealand highlighted the international breadth of our charity and what a huge difference it makes. I am very proud to play a part in getting the antipodean community behind such a wonderful cause.

Community

E V I L LONG

H T

N G I K ! E

Community

n April the 30th the Dutch community in Moscow celebrated National Day at the magnificent Pushkin Museum in the heart of old Moscow. The event coincided with the abdication of 75 year-old Queen Beatrix of The Netherlands, and the inauguration of her 45 year-old son Prince Willem-Alexander as King. This double whammy of Dutch history on one day created a special, almost magical atmosphere at the Moscow event, even as a million Dutch flocked to Amsterdam to celebrate the generational change in the Royal House of Orange-Nassau. During the formal part of the ceremony at Pushkin museum, many warm words were spoken about the 33 years of service that Queen Beatrix, now Princess Beatrix dedicated to her country. Then all stood to sing the Dutch National Anthem. This was a truly moving occasion.

Ron Keller,

Ambassador of the Kingdom of the Netherlands to Russia

Community

Moscow expat Life talked to several participants at the Moscow event: What does this occasion mean to you Mr. Ambassador? Today we have a new King! After 33 years of service the Queen has abdicated, she retired. Well, she hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really retired, she will keep on working, and we have a new head of state. This is something that happens once in a lifetime. So for all of us, for the Dutch people in particular, this is a very very special day. The events of today have immense significance.

Will there be any changes in Dutch-Russian relations? I think there will be changes. The new King will bring with him a new style and a new personality, he will be King in his own manner, and his wife Queen Maxima will have her own role to play. They will represent the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s evolution. But I think that overall, there will be continuity. There is support within Dutch society for the Royal Family, for the institution of the Monarchy. We like the combination of a democracy and having a King as head of state. The King plays a huge role of unifying the country. This is a model that serves us well, and it will continue to be our preferred way of doing things.

Is there anything you would like to say to the Dutch community in Moscow? I am so grateful that so many Dutch people and their friends came today. I would just like to say keep working diligently with your Russian friends and partners, not only for your own interests, but because you contribute to the development of two countries which are drawing closer together. Only 50 or 60 years ago, we were enemies, and now we are friends and partners.

Community

Marjan This is a special day. I am not in Holland, my husband lives here, so I am missing what is happening at home, but I am happy to be here rather than in Holland, because they are going crazy, really crazy in Holland! It’s much better to be here with a little celebration and a lot of vodka!

Evonne

Bert It’s very nice, a very good party. I’m usually a happy person it doesn’t depend on the King, but today is special!

I agree, I have been celebrating with all the Dutch people and the Russian people here, it really is a most amazing day, and an amazing time for us. In Holland we always celebrate the 30th of April as Queen’s day. Everybody has a holiday, there are concerts and lots of things to do. People can take their stuff outside and sell it, so the cities become like huge markets. Some people make music, it’s a huge thing. Today is much more important because the Queen has stepped back, so Holland at this moment is going berserk. Really! In Amsterdam they have had celebrations all day and they will carry on until tomorrow morning! It’s one big thing after another.

Do people who loved the Queen feel sad? No, because they think that the King is ready, and she has done a tremendous job, for 33 years, so they think that she has done the right thing to step back. He has been preparing for many many years as has his wife. The Queen feels she deserves a nice pension and a quieter life, she thinks that the young people should take over now, so thumbs up for her.

Community Julia Pop Interview by

ova

My meeting with Fiona Johnston the chairman of the British Women’s Club (BWC) of Moscow and her friend Una Allan, her assistant, coincided with a traditional English tea ceremony carefully organized by Fiona. Sipping gorgeous tea we spoke about the BWC, and living in Moscow.

Moscow

from the British Point of View. How did the British Women’s club start in Moscow? Fiona Johnston: It is quite young, it was set up in 2000. When British women arrive here they may need help and support from each other to understand basic things like where to shop for food, information about schools and to get to know other British ladies. Mainly it is a help group,

because it can be quite a shock settling here if you don’t speak Russian. Una Allan: And it is good to meet other British expats who have been through all the pitfalls and are ready to help. Fiona Johnston: Women generally introduce themselves before they move to Moscow. And we (consult) let the ladies know on what is going on in the city.

The British

Women’s

Club We get their telephone numbers, addresses, than meet women all the time and participate in their lives.

Fiona, how did you take on the responsibility to run the British Women’s Club? Fiona Johnston: I was already the membership secretary of the BWC when the last chairwoman had to leave for family reasons. I stepped up and said “I can do it!” I’ve lived in different countries all over the world for quite a long time: South Asia, the Middle East, Latin America and now I am in Moscow. I’ve been here for two and a half years. A lot of the members are in the same situation.

Do you often meet couples from the places you lived in here in Moscow?

Community Una Allan: Sometimes we find people again, that’s a fun part of living abroad. The British Club is not as big as the International Women’s Club. It has maybe 90 members but it is very friendly. There is a split between those ladies who don’t have children with them and live in the centre, and those who have kids and live in the suburbs like Rosinka or Serebrennai Bor near where the schools are. They have to be at home earlier to meet children after the classes.

Who can join the club? Fiona Johnston: As long as you have a British passport yourself or you married to somebody who does, you can become the member of BWC. We have quite a few Russian wives who are members. It is not because we welcome our nationality only, we are confined by the rules of how the embassy works. Once a month we hold our monthly meeting there. Una Allan: - But we welcome anyone else to the coffee mornings which are held every Tuesday.

Who plans the activity of the BWC? Fiona Johnston: We have a committee with ten members. We meet once a month and make decisions about what we are going to do during the months ahead. It is a kind of a job we do together. Una is responsible for the newsletter and the website. Our Membership Secretary looks after everybody’s contact information: emails, telephone numbers. There is another lady who is our treasurer and deals with all the finances. We have a charity’s coordinator and another member who runs the family network, which is specifically important for young mums with children. Una Allan: We also have two activity coordinators who are responsible for events throughout the year. Our major activities are

planned almost six months ahead. The ladies themselves decided what they want to do. This month, for example, we are concentrating on museums. Fiona Johnston: We apply for help to travel agencies like ‘British Bridge to Moscow’, and ‘Patriarchy Dom’. They always give us an English-speaking guide. Moscow is especially nice and quiet in summer. When the schools close and everybody goes to the dacha we have Moscow to ourselves again. We enjoy it.

Fiona Johnston: We remember television footage of Russia during the Soviet Era when the country was almost closed to foreigners. I never dreamt as a child or as a teenager that I would ever be allowed to visit Russia. For us it was and it still is something extra special and exotic. Una Allan: I enjoy the winter so much, especially when the first snow comes and everything is white and crystal. Fiona Johnston: I organise cross country skiing for the International Women’s Club, which is open to the all ladies of the British Club as well. We don’t do sports specifically within the BWC.

Is it difficult to bring your culture in Russia? Have Russians adopted any aspects of British culture?

When the schools close and everybody goes to the dacha we have Moscow to ourselves again. We enjoy it.

What are your favourite places in Moscow? Fiona Johnston: The Banya. We have been a few times there and really like these places. I love the ballet and going to the theatre, but I don’t go because I can’t speak Russian which is a shame. My husband is very keen on classical music, so we go to the Сhaikovsky concert hall quite a lot. I love the Kremlin, the Novodevichy Monastery; the iconic places that everybody recognizes. Una Allan: They never disappoint. You go to Red Square and it is fantastic! When I saw Time Square in New York I was a little disillusioned.

Fiona Johnston: The British pubs! There is one across the road from my apartment (smiling). Una Allan: There is a lot of tea everywhere. We feel very home drinking tea.

What do you think about the Russian mentality? Fiona Johnston: I find some aspects of Russian culture a bit challenging. Moscow seems bigger than London. To use public transport is hard from the point of the language and the crowds. For example in the metro sometimes there is a lot of elbows pushing on the escalators. Taxi drivers don’t speak English. Una Allan: We are trying to learn Russian, but, it is useless. I for one am not very good. It is not an easy language to learn, predominantly because of the alphabet. We have a few Russian speakers in our group. Some of our ladies studied Russian at university, which is a great help for the rest of us. I think it is different for people who travel a lot and for those who are here on a first posting. Fiona Johnston: I love Moscow. It will go on my list of one of my

Community favourite places to live. People are friendly. Quite often when you are at home you expect Russians to be closed. In my opinion they are quite Scottish. I relax with Russians and that aspect doesn’t worry me anymore. Especially I like the younger generation, who are very friendly and want to practice their English on us.

Can you share with your experiences of communicating with strangers? Una Allan: I can only remember positive experiences. Once I was wearing a golden bangle, which fell off. A Russian man saw this and gave me it back to me when I didn’t even know that I had lost it. It was a very nice gesture. Fiona Johnston: When I go to the bigger shops to buy something, the people behind the till sometimes can be not very friendly but I usually find them very helpful and we usually end up laughing because I’ve ordered too many of something or not the right things because my Russian is not good enough. Una Allan: Not long ago, we went to a bread shop to buy two loaves of bread. I was trying to find 10 rubles in my pockets. As usual the shop had no change and the man behind us laughed and gave us the money.

Are Russian men gentlemen? Fiona Johnston: I met only one ‘ungentleman’ in Russia. When I was cross-country skiing, a man came up behind me, pushed me from behind and I went face first down into the snow. Then he stood and berated me. I just looked at him. But that was very unusual. Normally if I carry a suitcase someone always helps me. I don’t have problems. Russians sometimes have false ideas just how polite English men are. There are plenty of men in the UK who don’t hold the door open

for you. We are not such a perfect land of manners as you think.

my day-off. I have two children. My elder son lives and works in London. My other son studies in Oxford. My children come once Where do you recommend to a year but I go home five times a go to for tea or a meal? year, maybe even more because Fiona Johnston: In one of the UK is so near. our trips we went for afternoon Una Allan: I have two tea at the children too. My ( R y u e s h s Kempinsky daughter works, ians) nion t y opi cottish. I rela m hotel which my son studies x with In quite S are ans and that aspect was very at Portsmouth i Russ n’t worry me anymo r s e good. The do e Swedish

chef learnt the tradition of the British afternoon tea in London. The baking, the sandwiches and the tea, everything was very British! Una Allan: My favorite place is Vet café. That reminds me of Vietnam where I used to live. Fiona Johnston: There are many good restaurants in Russia. I like Ragout, and the Fosiano café. But eating out in Moscow is considerably more expensive than in London. I often wonder how average Muscovites cope with the prices. I have never been to the nightclubs here but I heard that they can be overpriced too. You pay thousands just to get the table.

How do you spend your time here? Fiona Johnston: My weeks are full. I go to a yoga studio, play bridge, ski, I organize the BWC. I am a part of a group of ladies of the International Women’s Club who do voluntary English conversations at Speransky hospital. Friday is

University. I also go home quite often. You can get anywhere to the world from Moscow. I am a housekeeper of many years standing. I help Fiona with the BWC, do the website, play bridge and sing with The Moscow Mellow Divas twice a week. We have two concerts coming up in June. Fiona Johnston: It is really hard to get a job in Moscow because most countries don’t allow us to work. The visa is done on the basis that your husband is the employee and I was forbidden to work in America, Venezuela and Colombia. What would I be if I were working here? My profession is a nurse. I worked in the UK, in South Asia before I had children. The restrictions in working are one of the reasons why we try to fill our day with useful, not frivolous things.

What do you think about Russian women? Fiona Johnston: They have their own mind and go with it. British women are the same.

Community

Internations went Bavarian! On the 25th of April at the Pivnoi Dom BRAUHAUS. A range of prizes was awarded thanks to sponsors Awara Eduhouse Training and HRS. An international spirit pervaded the proceedings, helped along with truly Bavarian portions of beer.

Business Clubs/Associations The European Businesses Association

CEO

What is your role in Moscowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business scene?

AEB

plays an active role in Moscow business life. We are developing cooperation between Moscow and European business circles through high profile conferences, briefings, round tables and other business events. The AEB is working on improving the business and investment climate in Moscow in the interests of its member companies and promotes a favourable image of Russia abroad to improve business development conditions inside the country and attract foreign investors. AEB also works with state entities, international financial organizations and cultural institutions in Russia. Our association members have been working for several years to make Moscow a top international financial center.

Who are your members?

Our

members are both leading European companies as well as small and medium companies. AEB is an active community of about 630 members, providing a network for sharing opinion and experience. The AEB is an advocate of its membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; opinions, generated in 40 industrial and cross-sectorial committees, subcommittees and working groups.

Dr. Frank Schauff

In your opinion what are the greatest challenges facing expats in Moscow?

Life

in Russia, and in particular, in Moscow is full of challenges and surprises! However, a little preparation both before and after your arrival can be of immense benefit throughout the rest of your stay. You should be prepared for the fact that not many Russians speak English and navigating throughout Moscow might be difficult at the beginning. You might also discover that current immigration procedures are quite complicated. The Moscow bureaucracy still appears to be consolidated and pervasive, but the authorities are moving to improving conditions for doing business and living in Moscow.

Which bank should you use here?

If you want to transfer money abroad, you need to have a foreign currency account as well as a rouble account. City Bank, Raiffeisen and a few other major western banks have branches here and most have English-speaking staff. Tax issues will be dealt with in an article in the next issue of Moscow expat Life

What’s On

www.britishclub.ru

In the mid-90’s a small group of businessmen met up to talk about what could be done to support British businesses in Russia and help local communities. By 1998, this became a comfort meeting for those who had survived one of the hardest financial falls to hit anywhere. However, the British business Club continued to pull together the British business Community and assist local charities and business people. Today, the British Business Club supports more than 600 British or affiliated people and companies with regular meetings and charitable events. We have strong local contacts and help where we can, if not directly, then at least with a guiding hand to a person, organisation or ministry. Russia continues to offer massive opportunities to British businesses, but it takes stamina to see them through. The BBC offers a small sanctuary of Britain to help in these times.

The Australian Business In Europe (ABIE) was founded in London in October 1975. The objective was to provide a forum for Australians working in Europe and European business people associated with Australian industry to meet regularly, get to know each other and discuss topics of mutual interest. Today, ABIE has an international membership of about 1,000 drawn mostly from Australian companies with business interests in Europe and from a wide range of European companies with reciprocal interest in Australia. ABIE hosts a range of events designed to keep members up-todate with business, political, sports and cultural developments occurring in Australia. It also runs a social programme to facilitate networking.

www.australianbusiness.ru

British Business Club President: Don Scott

Italian Business Club (ITAM) President: Giovanni Stornante

The Irish Business Club Chairperson: Avril Conway

We organise social and professional events for the Italian community. We bring Italians together, help their integration when they move to the big city, facilitate the exchange of ideas, experience and opportunities between the Italian and other business communities. Ultimately, we make Italy a little closer to Russia. Any organisations and individual in Moscow that are either Italian or focus their business on Italy can join the club. Our greatest challenge is understanding and dealing with intercultural differences, that can really make or break any venture here. Adapting to the Russian business style without losing one’s own is of paramount importance as is re-creating some of the quality of life of your country of origin, with particular attention to issues such as sourcing healthy food and ingredients, exploring the vast wealth of Russia’s culture, taking frequent breaks from the city to breathe clean air.

The members of the Irish Business Club are a mix of both Russian and Irish professional people and private individuals. It takes some time to understand the Russian culture and to make friends. Russian people are very well educated and I truly believe our role is to transfer knowledge and understanding. This is sometimes a challenge for people. Moscow as a city is very big and yet very small; it can feel like a lonely place if you are not active and out there. Sometimes the things we take for granted like shopping and driving can be very challenging here. All in all it is a super place but, for anyone who is new, the only advice I would give is ask for advice; it is always useful. We try and help in this respect as much as we can.

www.moscowirishclub.ru

Australian Business in Europe, Russia (ABIE) Managing Director and Founder: Slava Konovalov

Kitchenette Breakfast Forum What education opportunities are available for expat children in Moscow?

David Gilmartin

Lucy Kenyon

EDUCATION

Breakfast Forum

onova

s ga Sam l O y b Photos

In the first of a series of honest talks about subjects relevant to expats, Moscow expat Life invited two experts; David Gilmartin, General manager, Troika Relocations and Lucy Kenyon a public health nurse and expat parent to breakfast at the magnificent Kitchenette at Kamergersky Pereulok 6. To a tasty breakfast which included eggs benedict, croque madame, cheese omelette (the best omelette in Moscow said Lucy Kenyon), croissant and pancakes, David and Lucy shared their views on education opportunities available in Moscow.

David: Schools are available which follow the American curriculum such as the Anglo-American school, the British curriculum as at the International School of Moscow and International Baccalaureate (IB) at the British International Schools. In recent years the English international School in Moscow has opened a second campus, and Atlantic International have opened three new schools. Atlantic International is so far aimed at the Russian and Turkish communities, and is under Turkish management, but I believe that in the future they will refocus themselves more on international families.

How many campuses are there in total now in Moscow? Lucy: There is the International School of Moscow, also opening a new campus in Angelovo, EIS have two campuses, BIS has nine, Atlantic have three, then there is the Anglo-American school, the Hinkson Christian Academy, and the International School of Tomorrow. That’s about it for the English-speaking schools, but Moscow also has a Lycée Français, a German school which follow the French and German curriculums, a Swedish school which goes up to the age of 16, and in the same building on Leninsky Prospect, there is a Japanese, Finnish, Italian and a Hungarian school, so there are about 25 international schools at present in Moscow. Several embassies also run their native curricula from their premises. David: There is very much a pecking order of where parents want to place their children, but at the same time there is a much bigger selection available than people understand.

Kitchenette Breakfast Forum What about kindergartens? Lucy: There are a number of kindergartens, set in both the city centre and strategically located near expat residential areas. There is the Montessori Preschool, the Jewish Kindergarten, and there are several bilingual and trilingual preschools. There is Busy Bees at Barrikadnaya, which is very popular, the Americans have their own preschool, there is a pre-school at the International School of Moscow. There is a foundation stage school at the same location on Leninsky Prospect run by a Russian, but which follows a British curriculum. There are a lot of schools, but as with the secondary schools some are in much higher demand because of word of mouth.

All the secondary schools are expensive? David: You are looking at average starting fees at the best

schools of approximately €20,000 per annum, or higher.

That equates to the fees of a pretty top-level private school in Britain? David: A good private Irish boarding school is cheaper than many international schools in Moscow.

So why don’t people send their children off to boarding schools in the UK? Lucy: Because they want to keep their children at home, to keep the family together. One of the things that Moscow does offer is the opportunity to keep your family together rather than having to send children off to boarding school, if this is not right for them. David: For many 11-14 year olds, the quality of education is the same as what you would receive in Britain. There is no need to go anywhere.

What is the quality of teaching like in these schools? Do they suffer because of a high staff turnover? Lucy: Most international schools have now addressed this issue. They have looked at the packages that they offer teachers and adapted them to encourage staff to stay. I don’t think that staff turnover is as much an issue as it used to be. David: I’m from Ireland, where it is difficult to get rid of underperforming teachers. Here, if a teacher isn’t up to scratch, he or she is out. The schools here are able to afford to hire better quality teachers, and if there is a problem with a teacher, he or she can be replaced. I tend to look at that situation as being positive.

What are the important issues when trying to choose a school? Lucy: There are a number of issues. Schooling is the biggest

Kitchenette Breakfast Forum investment that parents make in their children’s future. Education is the cause of the most worries for people when they are moving anywhere new, and as David has mentioned you can’t just turn up and expect to be given a place at the best schools; there is a shortage of places. But I think it is important for parents to take a step back and ask what kind of personality has their child got, who does he or she associate with best? Would they be better in a structured environment or a situation with vertical streaming, where they would be streamed across a two or three year groups. Both environments are better for some children, but not for all. Then there is the question of pastoral care, because children who are arriving here are going

curricula teach subjects and skills at different ages - particularly relevant if you are going back to a set exam system or to a country like Germany, Italy, Holland or Belgium, because in those countries, if the child is not up to standard, they will put the child back a year. Although the English national curriculum is quite prescriptive, you do move ahead with your peer groups; but parents should stay informed about the curriculum their child will return to, in order to keep as many options open as possible for their child. Another thing to be aware of is that it takes about a year for a child to settle back into his native culture, because the emotional experience, academic standards, the level of sophistication of your lifestyle here

in with local children who may not understand the issues that accompany the displacement that expat life brings. Some of these children may have different types of emotional baggage. So parents should find out if the school has behaviour and welfare policies, because a child who is used to having an armed body guard sitting outside the school waiting for him or her may have different a very different experience and expectations to a child who comes from a school where they used to walk to school with their mum, for example. Emotional, not just curriculum issues are really important to consider. Of course the curriculum is highly important, different

are all going to be different to that back home. If you come from a nonEnglish speaking country and your child has been attending an English speaking school here, parents have to ask themselves: what is the impact going to be on our child’s progress? One cause of frustration for parents who cannot get places, or do not want all of their children to go to the same school, is that every school in Moscow seems to observe different holiday dates. This makes it impossible for the family to go on holiday without taking one or other child out of school. None of the half terms coincide, the summer holidays are staggered across a number of weeks. As a parent, I don’t know why it is so difficult for schools to coordinate their holidays.

Parents need to understand all of these issues before they place their children. This is difficult for many parents, as what is often uppermost in their minds is: where is everyone else going? What is the best school? If the family is on a compound, the number one concern will be: where is everybody else going so that my children can come back home with the other children and play with their friends? If a family has a child with special needs, an important issue for parents to consider is the reality of accessibility in Moscow and the lack of disabled facilities. It is a fact that all these schools are privately run and do not have any legal obligation to provide for special arrangements.

Who do you talk to, to find out the answers to these very questions which you have put forward, without actually putting your child in a school? Lucy: You can talk to one of the relocation companies. They visit the schools regularly with families who are arriving in Moscow, so they have a feel for the schools. However there is nothing better than for the parents themselves to visit the schools, because they know what is comfortable for them and what feels right for their children.

So David, you also play the role of an education consultant?

David: Rather than recommend a particular school, we would recommend families to come over early and visit at least three schools. Very often they will limit their choice to the Anglo American school for example if the child is coming in from an American high school, or to a British school if the child is coming in from a British curriculum-based school in Dubai for example. However we would always encourage parents to be more open in their choice, because parents are not always guaranteed the first choice. Continuity of curriculum is very important as Lucy mentioned, but it is also important to be slightly open in terms of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expectations.

How important is the location of where you live in terms of schools? David: We would encourage the family to put the school rather than the office as being the primary location. If you live next to your office the child will very likely have a long commute to school.

Lucy: For example, my husband works in Chekhov, so he has a 140 kilometre commute every day. Our company didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afford us the luxury of consulting with a relocation company, but I wish we had, because of the special nature of Moscow and its geography.

How difficult is it to get into university in western countries for pupils from international schools? Lucy: There is every chance. IB and A levels are internationally recognized, as far as recognition of qualifications goes, there is no issue here. International students are always welcome at universities because they come with international arrangements. The universities welcome them. David: There is no question of students from Moscow being downgraded in any way, probably quite the opposite is true. Teaching is generally good. Lucy: Some British universities have partnerships with Russian universities, making it possible to do shared degrees between Russian and the UK.

Sport

Juan Lopez

The Expat

Football League has been running for 12 years, and has hundreds of members. This is the largest expat sports group in Moscow, yet not everybody knows exactly how the League operates and how to join. Moscow expat Life talked to Juan Lopez, the League’s Highest scorer ever!

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How did the League start? The expat League started out in about 2001, with just a few guys who wanted to play football every week and to have a bit of fun. Then gradually more and more people became involved, and we started the League. Eventually we got to 8 teams, each of which has 20-25 players, currently we have 7 teams.

In each squad there are enough players to have one team playing another team? Every week there’s a fixture, apart from holidays. We use a Round-robin scheduling, so we play each other alternative weeks. There are people from all walks of life: UK, Irish, Italian, Spanish, American, Turkish; not many Russians because we try to keep it as expat as possible. Those Russians that are in it are there because they have been part of it since the beginning, or they are American, British or some other nationality. There are a lot of Turks, they supply three of the teams. There is a fair turn out of Brits and Americans. At the moment there is no

major sponsor of the league. It pays for itself with a little bit of help from a couple of guys who put in a lot of money each week. We pay to play, normally about 1,000 roubles a week per person, because the pitches are expensive and it depends on how many people turn up. We play on very good pitches, normally at Luzhniki and previously MGIMO. We play inside during the winter season which normally runs from late October to April. We play at Spartak Moscow’s indoor stadium during the Winter. But the good thing is that in Moscow there are enough places around to allow us to play indoors or outdoors if we need to change places. The League is mainly for people over 30 years of age, because the guys who started it were mainly over 30 now. Now the age limit is 28 and over. You don’t have to be experienced, you are more than welcome, but you probably won’t play much because it’s gone from being fun only to very competitive. I’m 39, I still find that I can compete with the younger guys but need a warm bath after playing or a nice Banya to relax as it’s hard to play against players who are 10 years younger than you.

Sport Is it a problem that people may feel that they aren’t good enough to play? It depends on the person, sport is a very competitive environment. When you get an element of youth coming into the league, it makes it that bit more competitive, because for players who have played at a very high standard, they want to play against other players at the same standard. Most of us have been here playing for 10 years. The Turkish guys have come and made it very competitive and therefore I think the league has gone on from there and is only getting stronger!

Do you have a shortage of people? It varies from week to week, from team to team. One week a team can have 11 players, the next 18. It is mostly businessmen, and students who are mainly from Africa. The Students are often subsidized, by other members on their teams to play. It’s not really an issue, as we all chip in, plus helps keeps the numbers.

You don’t have a women’s team?

Is there a yearly competition to determine the top team?

If someone wants to join, how do they get allocated to a particular team?

There is one league and we have two seasons (Winter/ Summer) and normally once a year we have a cup competition in the summer. The most successful team to date has been the Moscow flagons they seem to have a habit of winning. Each team has it’s own name, and at the end of each season we have a special event where we award the winning trophies for the winning teams, and for the best players. Normally we organize a Ball and the proceeds go to charity.

Each captain recruits himself. I know a couple of people advertise, but normally it’s through a friend or somebody they know. But if somebody wants to play and they don’t know anybody in the league, we can put them in touch with various teams. Basically you won’t be paying 1,000 roubles a month if you are a complete beginner. Players have usually played somewhere else before. The standard is high; it’s not walking into a park on a Sunday afternoon knocking a ball around with a few guys. Having said that, anybody is more than welcome to come down and join us, you need to buy soccer boots and shin pads, we supply the rest of the kit, sponsored by certain people in each team. Normally we play every Saturday, sometimes we have games on Sundays. You are welcome.

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No, the expat league is just Men. I think due to the nature of the game we play, it would be difficult to introduce women in to the league. I like women’s football, there are some women’s league’s around Europe and back in the UK where the standard is very high, but football is a game different from many others, much like rugby (it’s the physical nature). I think to play tennis, golf or another sport where the physical side is not a major obstacle to the players it can be more enjoyable for both sides.

Sport

Playing golf in Russia has gone from being an exotic pastime to an increasingly popular and well-managed sport over the past decade. Moscow expat Life asked the instructors in each course to tell us a little about their golf courses and training facilities.

Pestovo Golf and Yacht club

Instructor: Stephen Dundas, PGA Fellow Professional Golf Director Pestovo Golf and Yacht Club

Pestovo Golf and Yacht club opened in 2006, this Dave and Paul Thomas design championship course is a mixture of parkland and links. The course measures 6483m from the championship tees. There is also a state of the art golf academy with the latest in video and computer technology. This is supported by the PGA trained professionals who are available for lessons with members and guests of members. When the golfers are not enjoying the world class golf course there are beautiful views from the yacht club or the state of the art fitness centre that can be enjoyed.

The main things I focus on is trying to get students to do the basic things that all professionals do properly: Hold the club properly Aim properly Get in the correct posture Have the correct ball position Acquire a good pre-shot routine All the things above are done correctly by professionals and there is no reason why the average golfer canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do these things correctly. All swing faults stem from doing one or more of the above incorrectly.

$75,000 individual $100,000 family or corporate

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My philosophy on teaching.

What is the cost of membership?

At present we have 220 members Just under 10% of these are expats. Guests of members can play for 9000 roubles, but need to be accompanied by a member. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t offer a green fee for nonmembers.

Sport Instructor: Nick Solski PGA Advanced Professional

Zavidovo PGA National Russia

Since its opening in September 2013 Zavidovo PGA National has fast gained a reputation within the Russian golfing fraternity for the quality and condition of the golf course. Designed by David Sampson of European Golf Design, the par 72 6700m course is a testament to the Links courses more commonly found in Scotland, and should certainly be put on your 2013 golfing calendar as a must play!

What is the current cost for membership and what are the annual charges for members to play? Golf Membership can be purchased with joining fee’s starting from 2 million roubles with annual fees from150,000 roubles per annum. We are launching a specific expat membership (May 2013) which is an annual fee of 210,000 roubles and no joining fee.

Can non-members play your course? What are the green fees? We would ask that they have a handicap certificate - weekdays 7,500 roubles, weekends 9,000 roubles. Please contact us for our monthly green fee offers!!

What is your teaching philosophy and how do you achieve this in your teaching techniques? Our academy is where we feel the golf experience starts and is a primary focus for us this season. In introducing the game to new golfers Nick Solski aims to offer a complete ‘Golf Experience’ based on his time of introducing the game to over 6,000 players in the Ukraine and Lithuania. Initially we will be promoting company ‘corporativni’ golf, where by up to 50 people can be shown how much fun golf can be in a single afternoon event. We can also help those who are looking to learn the secrets of the tour pro’s and discover how to play better on the golf course. These lessons take into consideration how to shape shots, control distances and discusses topics designed to lower your score as well as valuable tips on saving shots on the putting surface.

Thailand’s Leading English Golf Magazine www.ThaiGolf-news.com Sales Contact(English): Mike Bridge Editor@thaigolf-news.com +66831986700 Sales Contact(Thai & English): Amy Khongboonma amy@thaigolf-news.com +668 94190188 www.ThaiGolf-news.com

Sport Agalarov Golf & Country Club

Golf Director and instructor: Peter Anthony Holland, PGA Professional / TPI Golf Fitness Instructor

The Agalarov Golf & Country Club, Established against the backdrop of an inimitable landscape of protected sanctuary land with a total area of 300 hectares, combined with the immaculately groomed fairways, bent grass greens and exceptional customer service create the renowned Troon Golf Experience (www.troongolf. com) here in Moscow. The Agalarov Estate includes a magnificent golf course with 18 holes (6,492 meters, par 71), designed by the American architect Cal Olson, with a complex water system, consisting of 14 lakes, most of which are connected by a system of small streams with a single underwater current, 4 flowing waterfalls, and 7 delightful fountains. The golf course opened in 2012 and is managed by the leaders in upscale golf course management ‘Troon Golf’.

What is the current cost for membership and what are the annual charges for members to play? Membership joining fees and annual charges are available through contacting the ownership via our application forms. Phone +7 926 8001 436 / www.agalarovestate.com / www.troongolf.com

The majority of our members are from Russia with 10% being expats

Can non-members play your course? What are the green fees? Agalarov Golf & Country Club is a private club for members and their guests only. Our membership drive rate is 15,000 roubles for 18 holes of golf including golf cart, access to practice facilities and golf operation services.

Many people want to either learn how to play or wish to improve their game. What is your philosophy and how do you achieve this in your teaching techniques? Every individual is unique. If a beginner, the fundamentals will be learnt in a fun and supporting environment. If a junior, fundamental movements and age specific sport skills are developed at the right time to create athletes and then great golfers!  My personal coaching methods are structured to first understand what a person is physically capable of doing by performing a TPI physical screen. Secondly, to data capture as much information through utilizing proven modern technology and test the individual through shot making scenarios, which cover all aspects of their game. Thirdly, to discover and to understand the individual’s goals. Based upon the information learnt, I support the student in developing their own individual game to perform beyond specific goals and then to set new ones! We also ensure everyone has fun and cultivates a love for the game!

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How many members do you have currently? What percentage of these members are expats?

Sport Moscow Country Club Instructor: David Morris, leading instructor at Moscow Country Club Moscow Country Club is the first 18-hole championship golf course in Russia. The course which opened in 1994, is 6,464m which allows tournaments to be held, and was designed by Robert Trend Jones junior; one of the best golf course architects. The course is a parkland type and was built in dense Russian forest with huge pine trees, birch trees, wildlife and bird songs.

How many members do you have currently? What percentage of these members are expats? Currently we have 500 active members, 40 percent of which are foreign.

Can non-members play your course? What are the green fees? Of course guests can play on our golf course but only three times in a year. Cost of the Green fees for 2013 year: • Monday-Thursday; 18 Holes – 7,500 roubles. • Friday; 18 holes - 8500 roubles. • Saturday-Sunday; 18 Holes – 12,000 roubles. For any question about green fees please contact our golf reception : +7 495 626 59 10

What is your teaching philosophy and how do you achieve this in your teaching techniques? Over the past few years, the number of people who want to improve their game or start to play golf has grown. Anyone who comes into our golf club to improve their golf skills will get qualified help from our Golf Professionals. The desired result is achieved by an individual training program composed by a golf coach. We use special equipment for swing analysis, which is set up in our Golf Academy . Our goal is to teach people play golf and get to enjoy the game.

Email: davidmorrisgolf@gmail.com www.moscowcountryclub.ru/en

Sport

Gethin Jenkins, General Manager, Rugby World Cup Sevens 2013

Rugby Sevens Update

Any recent developments in the planning since April?

How have the Russian team been preparing?

The planning continues to progress well. All the teams are now qualified, so we are entering the exciting stage where the teams thoughts and activities turn towards preparing for the Rugby World Cup Sevens. We had a very successful Pool Allocation Draw in the Petroff Palace back in February. The last legs for the men’s HSBC Sevens World Series are taking place in Glasgow and London, and for the women, their final tournament in the Women’s series will take place in Amsterdam in mid May. From then on, the focus will be on the World Cup in June. The intensity for this tournament is bigger than usual, as it is the last one before rugby sevens re-enters the Olympics in Rio 2016. The last time rugby featured in the Olympics was in the 1920s, so this is a really exciting opportunity for the game and the teams. One of the reasons we have come to Russia is to expand the boundaries and horizons of the game, and we’re looking forward to the welcome we will receive in June.

I haven’t seen any of their practice sessions, but the Russian team did well in Hong Kong, and have qualified for the London qualification tournament for the HSBC Sevens World Series next year, so the men’s team has continued to develop. The women have done very well on the circuit this season with two top five finishes, and there is no doubt that in Amsterdam they are looking to repeat that. So the Russian teams continue to improve and I think will offer very competitive matches especially with a home crowd behind them.

British Business Club for Tickets: Telephone: +7 495 727 1478, Email: hospitality@britishclub.ru

What do you think of the Luzhniki stadium in Moscow where the tournament will be held? It’s a great iconic stadium. It’s held everything from the Olympics to the Champions League and will host the World Athletics in August and the FIFA World Cup in 2018. It’s a world-renowned stadium for world-renowned competitions. We are really excited about the Rugby World Cup Sevens being held there. A lot of effort has been put into getting the stadium ready; the

usual surface is coming out and a grass pitch is being put in specially for the tournament. As we have said, this is a great opportunity for the Rugby World Cup to expand its horizons into new territories, but it’s also a great opportunity for Russian rugby to develop and move forward. The stadium certainly helps with these aims and is an exciting place for the teams to show their skills and showcase Sevens.

How can you get tickets? We have been working with the British Business Club, they are offering great hospitality packages and it will be a great opportunity for businesses and individuals to come along and get behind the event and enjoy traditional corporate rugby hospitality. You should get in touch with them in Moscow for tickets, but you should hurry. Ordinary tournament and day tickets are available through rwcsevens.com

Charity Leaders

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ig Brothers Big Sisters of Russia is a part of Big Brothers Big Sisters International, one of the most efficient mentoring programs for children. In Moscow BBBS helps children living in institutional care (orphanages) and disadvantaged children. A volunteer becomes a Big Brother or a Big Sister to a child, visits him or her once a week for at least one year. Studies show that children who have a mentor have higher self-esteem, are more stable emotionally, have better motivation to study and show more initiative. Currently there are 162 matches in Moscow. Olya Fedchenko, a Big Sister, and Zhennya, a Little Sister, have participated in the BBBS programme for almost a year. Olya is 27 years old, she works in finance; specializing in loan debt. Zhennya is now 16 years old, and lives in one of Moscow orphanages. She loves photography and drawing and would like to be a designer. Olya and Zhennya talk about their experiences of being a Big and a Little, about their friendship, best memories and dreams for the future.

Sisters

On joining BBBS: Olya: I have wanted to be a volunteer for some time, because I wanted to do something useful, to help people. I read about Big Brothers Big Sisters and I liked this idea, in that it lets you interact with people and that it helps children – I love children. So I decided to try – and I ended up staying! When I applied for the BBBS programme I imagined that my Little will be a small child, in elementary school. But then the case managers explained that most children in orphanages are teenagers. I was really worried that they will find me a teenage boy – what would I talk to him about! But they told me that my Little will be 15- year old girl – Zhennya, who likes to read and draw, and I relaxed. Zhennya: I wanted a Big Sister because I wanted diversity, something new in life, someone to talk to. I like hanging out with people who are older than me – they are interesting and they know a lot. When I thought about my Big Sister I just wanted her to

Charity Leaders be cool, lively and a good person. Now I think life would be boring without Olya. Having a Big is really important for kids, for all of them. It supports them and provides them with a base in life.

On meeting for the first time: Olya: We met at a BBBS sport event for Bigs and Littles last May. I remember the case manager showed me a group of teenage girls, pointed at one of them and said “This is Zhennya”. She was so shy and tiny. I asked her about her interests, tried to get to know her as much as I could in a short time. We were talking about books and it turned out she liked fantasy while I prefer classics. She draws animation, and I know nothing about this. So I was contemplating that I should learn about all these things so that she and I can be on the same page! Zhennya was also testing me, as teenagers often do with adults. For example she told me she smokes and trying to quit and watched my reaction. I was very calm, just told her that she shouldn’t do what everyone else is doing but should consider that it is harmful for her and decide for herself. I have the same attitude until this day – not to turn into one of Zhennya’s teachers but be a friend who she can tell things to and receive a piece of advice, I never pressure her.

On best memories: Zhennya: Open-work dandelion Fedya! That’s the nickname I gave Olya. Open-work dandelion because she has curly hair and Fedya comes from her surname Fedchenko. I drew a dandelion on her vkontakte page! Mostly my best memories with Olya are just emotions – emotions of joy. I always think of Olya as someone who likes crazy fun, we laugh so much together! Olya: My best memory was when we exchanged diaries for the summer. Before Zhennya went on summer holidays I gave her a diary and bought one for myself. The whole summer we were writing whatever we wanted there and when we met after the holidays, we exchanged diaries. Zhennya surprised me – I expected a diary full of events from summer camp but instead it was full of quotes from the books she read. My diary was more about travelling experiences from that summer. Zhennya: I wrote down quotes from the books I read at that time and their titles. Which quote do I remember now? “Someone always leaves first, but the one who stays suffers”. Please keep in mind that you need a good knowledge of Russian to become a Big Brother or Big Sister because the children don’t speak English very well.

On what they learnt from each other: Zhennya: I learnt a lot. I learnt openness. Usually it is hard for me to talk to people and let them know what I am like. You can say she taught me to be more comfortable with who I am, to be myself. My relations with other people improved, with friends, with teachers. I have many problems with one particular teacher. Recently I sat down with her and we talked honestly about what is going on. And then we arranged a meeting for the whole class and we all talked, because the relationships between the class and her were not working out. The meeting helped and the situation is improving now. It is not like Olya to tell me to do this, but I was wondering what she would advise me in this situation and I thought that’s what she would do. Olya: Lots of positive emotions. Zhennya truly became my younger sister. Her opinion is important to me. I never have a question in my head: “What am I doing here?” I feel that Zhennya is happy to see me and that she is interested in meeting me, she is waiting for me. We often call and write each other just to share something.

On the future Zhennya: I would like to find a good job that I would really love. I would like to lead, but without humiliating other people. There are some women who I find inspiring. Recently I saw a movie about Margaret Thatcher, she was really cool. I also admire Coco Chanel, she changed a lot of things. She was brave, she wasn’t scared to take risks. I like to take risks too, in my drawings. At school we are supposed to draw according to certain rules but I often break them and draw in my own way. I step away from what is expected and do things the way I think is right. Afterwards teachers say I did a good job! I would like to still be friends with Olya after BBBS programme finishes (Littles participate in BBBS until they are 18 years old). It would be a shame to lose such a good person and a great friend.

Contact information for BBBS: Big Brothers Big Sisters of Russia  Старшие Братья Старшие Сестры России http://nastavniki.org To become a volunteer leave an application http:// nastavniki.org/ru-application/ or call

+7 (495) 500 40 42

Charity Listings

Below is an incomplete list of Charities operating in Moscow which foreigners are known to be involved with. Kidsave

Downside Up

Kidsave® is a non-profit organization working in Russia since 1999. Our programs create strong and lasting connections between children and adults, with the goal of giving orphans and young people graduating from institutions opportunities to develop the skills necessary for a successful future. Our Programmes: ‘Teen Mother’ programme helps vulnerable young mothers and pregnant girls learn how to care for their babies, experience the joy of motherhood, and stop the dreadful cycle of ‘inherited orphanhood’. ‘Strong Shoulders’ is a social adaptation and mentoring program that works with orphans and young adults. ‘Corporate Mentoring’ is a program designed to give older children in orphanages exposure to the workplace. You Can Help: In becoming a Kidsave Corporate Sponsor/Donor, you can give hope to orphan children and graduates and help create more favourable conditions for their future. With your help, we can find caring mentors for forgotten and abandoned children. We can give them a ‘strong shoulder’ or a safety net to ensure that they have a resolute start of an independent life! For additional information, please contact Alexander Mzhelsky at: a.mzhelsky@kidsave.org or +7 (985) 970 9019

About 2,500 children with Down syndrome are born in Russia annually. In 85% of such births, parents give their children up to maternity homes, often following doctors’ advice. The abandoned children are sent to state institutions with no chance of ever leaving them. But there is an alternative! The children can live in their families and join early intervention and education programmes. They develop and learn under a guidance of special education professionals, and they can go on learning at pre-schools and schools. Children with Down syndrome, no matter how different, have a vast learning potential. Downside Up invites you to help make life better for people with Down syndrome. Contact: Elena Lubovina, Downside Up 14A Parkovaya Str., Moscow, 105043 Russia Tel. +7 499 367 1000, +7 499 165 5536 lubovina@downsideup.org

Kitezh Kitezh is a network of therapeutic communities that give children from orphanages loving foster families. The aim is to create a developing environment for the education and care of orphans and children in crisis. The first Kitezh village is in Kaluga Region, 300 km south west of Moscow, and the second village, Kitezh-Orion, is located 60 km in the same direction. Contact: Kitezh Centre representative Katya Gurkina Tel: +7 916 975 1603 kitezhcentre@yandex.ru http://www.kitezh.org/en/index.php

Musical Experimental Theatre ‘Open Art’ Open Art was created in September 2001 for people with learning disabilities. Open Art is based on a unique combination of different art forms and directions: • Music • Dramatic art • Choreography • Art Design • Poetry • Dramatic improvisation • Ethnic art The Musical Experimental Theatre Open Art is open for participants from Moscow and Moscow region. Open Art has developed methods which are being used in rehabilitation centres and institutions for people with learning disabilities. Open Art also organizes courses and seminars for specialists in Moscow. Email: info@metopenart.com http://metopenart.com/

Charity Listings If you wish to list a charity in future issues, please write

to: editor@moscowexpatlife.ru Diema’s Dream

Moscow Animals

Diema’s Dream was established in 1998 to provide financial, medical, and educational support for both physically and mentally disabled children in Russia. The larger goal is to support changes in society and legislation in order to create social and medical support programs, which would allow parents to raise their children at home rather than living in institutions. Who We Support • Charity House, a Russian non-governmental organization (NGO) in Moscow. Charity House is the first and only one of its kind in Russia. The Moscow City government considers their work with disabled orphans to be a model for orphanage reform. Unfortunately, lack of funding has made it impossible for the government to apply the Charity House standards of child care to other orphanages • Association of Down’s Syndrome (ADS) program in Moscow. Academician Bochvar Street, 10A Moscow Russia 123098 International: 011-7-495-942-4003 Email: sa5557@yandex.ru Email: sergey@ddfund.ru

Email: info@moscowanimals.org. Moscow Animals – devoted to the welfare of homeless animals. To adopt a dog or cat or if you would like to help local animal shelters by making a donation or volunteering your time, please visit the Moscow Animal Website or email.

United Way The Fund supports charities offering programs aimed to meet the social needs of the following sections of society: • children at risk • disabled (children and adults) • refugees and homeless • elderly people

Mission

Organising an event? Advertise for free at fe.ru

www.Moscowexpatli

Fostering responsible philanthropy in Russia by supporting local charity programs aimed at solving the most critical problems. The Fund is a permanent source of financing for efficient charitable organizations. Charities receiving funding have to demonstrate financial transparency to the highest possible degree. In turn, we guarantee to the donors full adherence by the foundation to Russian legislature and provide full financial and activity reports. 14 Nizhnyaya Str., Bldg. 1, office 5, Moscow, 125040 Tel./Fax: + 7 (495) 780-97-18 E-mail: info@unitedway.ru

What’s the best and cheapest way of flying between Moscow and Australia? The Cheapest is probably China Airlines or China Eastern. Singapore Airlines is good, so is Cathay Pacific but they are not the cheapest. Emirates fly from Moscow to Dubai and then on to Australia.

Ask the Experts

Tom Wiseman

Clarke

t is remarkable how quickly conversation amongst the British moves to property, particularly in London… or perhaps that is just me. Soaring prices, school catchment areas, loft extensions – all subjects to thrill or bore to tears, depending on your point of view. A lot of people in the UK have been using property as a pension replacement or supplement for a long time – hold for long enough, and you won’t go wrong. In fact, with low interest rates, a kindly bank and very little effort, the returns can be considerably better than anything any fee-hungry equity fund manager can offer. And with conservative planning laws and a growing population, the supplydemand dynamic surely points to an endless, upward trend. Still, depending on when you left the UK, you might get a shock when you see the cost of entry. For years, there were two stamp duty rates – 0% and 1%. Then in came Labour in 1997, and stamp duty has been creeping, some

A quick guide to property in the UK A lot of people in the UK have been using property as a pension replacement or supplement for a long time – hold for long enough, and you won’t go wrong

might say lurching, upwards ever since. The top rate, applicable to properties over £2m, is now 7% if you buy privately, and 15% if you use a company. What is more, residential properties bought via a corporate structure to be lived in by the owner and valued at over £2m, are likely to get clobbered by new annual taxes of £15,000 or more. Even the more modest end of the

WELCOME TO THE CITY OF LONDON

Smoking will be forbidden in public places, which includes bars and restaurants from the 1st of June. Many restaurants are busy working on loopholes to this law, such as opening smoking zones on terraces, which is still allowed under the law.

Ask the Experts

It isn’t really possible to cover everything in a brief article like this. I believe the most important thing to remember is that, to take advantage of all the opportunities that UK property provides, it is well worth preparing the ground in advance. Although not tax or legal advisors, we are used to guiding our clients through the issues that arise so that our clients can act quickly and decisively.

spectrum, such as a 4-bed house in a good area of London, is likely to come in at over £1m and lead to a 5% stamp duty payment. All this means that if you are buying as an investment, there is quite a hurdle to jump before your property will be worth more than your total investment. Fortunately, to date, central London property seems to be managing some serious growth, with official Land Registry data showing average property prices in the City of Westminster rising some 55% since January 2007, even taking into account a dip from 2008-09. One key factor before investing in the UK, is to plan all the tax logistics well in advance, particularly if you, or your immediate family, are thinking of becoming tax resident. The UK tax authorities have ideas about what is rightfully theirs, which are somewhat at odds with what might seem fair or just, but these potential pitfalls can be avoided by planning before becoming UK tax resident. Needless to say, box-ticking is a major hassle in the UK – whether you want to open a bank account, get tax advice or hire a solicitor, they all require proofs of address and ID. We now advise our clients to get their names onto their utility bills (seeing as they usually show their landlord’s or grandmother’s) and then make several certified translations, all because British institutions believe that a utility bill is somehow vital in order to prove one’s address.

Tom Wiseman-Clarke worked in Moscow between 2001 and 2007. He is now Director of Profit Properties Ltd (www.profitproperties.co.uk).

Tech watch

John Harrison

The position of the ubiquitous iphone, as number one, is being challenged by a squad of outsiders: the Samsung Galaxy III, IV, the Nexus 4 and others. This sacrilegious eruption of non-orthodox thinking started on a low key, with wanna-be iphone users buying a phone that would at least navigate their way home at night, be an email answering machine and store contacts. Up until 6 months ago, the iphone was still superior in these basic activities, plus it pouts full synchronicity with itunes. But then the unthinkable started to occur. Business people started engaging in heretic acts by buying

Android machines instead of paying at least a third more for the latest iphone. The following is a non-technical appraisal of the situation by a frustrated iphone5 user. A German businessman at a recent InterNations meeting told me, spitting between his teeth: “I hate Apple’s control policies, I am anti-closed system.” The fact is that if you are an Apple laptop user, you are probably not even going to look at an android smartphone, why bother? But if you are not, and a large number of us are not, and you happen to buy an iphone, it is very frustrating

Tech watch

Apple computers have always, and still do, remain superior and more expensive products because a closed system brings club-membership; thus excluding unnecessary programmes which can clutter up the ‘Mac experience’ not to be able to fully synchronise itunes on the Galaxy III or IV from a Mac computer. You cannot seamlessly download music which you have paid for very easily onto some non-Apple smartphones. It can be done, but in Samsung’s case for example, Apple is not a bed partner with a company that it is in court with over patent issues. Apple’s old enemy was Microsoft. Some say Microsoft won that battle. This time, the enemy is Google. Apple computers have always, and still do, remain superior and more expensive products because a closed system brings club-membership; thus excluding unnecessary programmes which can clutter up the ‘Mac experience.’ This policy has served Apple well; they have been able to select the best. And charge the most. But the ground is shifting under Apple’s feet. Google has come up with a range of products that are as good as, if not better than Apple’s own. Apple’s monopoly of the iphone’s built in apps effectively ended with the imaps fiasco. On a recent trip to London, I was directed to an address on the Falkland Islands when trying to find a college in King’s Cross, using imaps. Full synchronicity on a country-by-country basis has not yet been achieved, let alone engagement of where you actually want to get to within one city. All iphone users I know use Google maps. Even with email, gmail is on the way to replacing Apple’s own email programme as the preferred email gateway. So how has Apple reacted to the fact that the enemy has entered the citadel in an electronic Trojan horse named Google? At first, it seems with great maturity. Google maps was made available on the iphone soon after the maps fiasco, and there is a synchronising system called CalDav and CardDav which synchronises gmail contacts and calendar systems with Apple’s iphone own. All seems well, Apple seems to have realised that it cannot produce the best engineered smartphone in the world—and also control all of its basic functions. But on closer look, it soon becomes apparent that synchronicity only goes so far. As a frustrated

iphone user, I have mentioned only a few problems, there are many more. For example: to allow users access to Google maps from inside of its native calendar app using IOS6, was a compromise too many for Apple. The user now has to copy the address, always a fiddly operation on a smartphone, and paste it into Google maps. Even gmail calendar apps such as CalenMob are not as good as gmail’s own. Mac followers will argue that all of these functions and more can be provided by acquiring apps, from the ‘App Store’, but why should they when Android phones provide such functions default, if you are prepared to use Google’s services?

With an Android smartphone, calendars and contacts are synchronised every time you go on the internet

The iphone’s own native apps are beginning to look archaic. Calendars and contacts only fully synchronise with a mac computer, or any computer for that matter via itunes, when you are within wifi reach of your laptop or by special Apple USB connection. Of course you can use iclouds, but that is not completely free, and comes with all sorts of Apple proprietary catches. With an Android smartphone, calendars and contacts are synchronised every time you go on the internet. Compare the complexity of loading files and document up onto your iphone with the ease of loading up similar files onto an Android device. With Apple, you use a ‘lightening port cable’ which is not used on any non-Apple products to connect your iphone to your Mac computer, then you can load files through itunes, but it is not easy. With an Android phone, you simply hook up via readily available (and cheap) mini USB cables. Your phone opens up just like an external hard disk and you can load any file to wherever you want. You are in control. Even Apple’s wifi is not fully compatible with some non-Mac computers. Once again, there are apps

Tech watch and ways around this, but Apple still makes it inherently more difficult for non-Apple users to make full use of Apple technology because that is its style. When you buy an iphone make sure that it is compatible with your non-Mac computer if that is what you are using. But not all Mac dealers are even aware of the problems, or want to be. Apple used to have a point maintaining a closeddoor policy. In an unstable IT world, Apple users are protected and secure in the knowledge that big A is looking after them. For the absolute beginner, Apple still offers a safer and more rugged way of communication, and iphones are perhaps the best choice for children and first-time smartphone users.

There is no one platform which can, as yet, comes close to offering itune’s vast library of music and video, and this is Apple’s saving grace. But the world has changed. Android software has stabilised, Google software is superior to Apple’s in ways difficult for the iarmy to comprehend. Having said that, there is no one platform which can, as yet, comes close to offering itune’s vast library of music and video, and this is Apple’s saving grace. The downside is that Apple is pushing all Mac users in the direction of iclouds, which is not free or even necessary when there are free apps out there such as Google Drive and Dropbox, which are still, mercifully, compatible with an iphone. If Google expands and is able to offer a serious competition to itunes there will be no reason to buy an iphone apart from design and ‘coolness’ reasons. But the latest Android phones are no longer the badly designed, cheap looking flimsy bits of plastic they used to be. Business executives are now seen at airports and even at power meetings with Samsungs and the like. The Russian elite market is still firmly Apple, but this is for prestige reasons rather than anything else. The battle is not yet over. The vast resources of Apple will undoubtedly convince us that a closed

system is superior to an open system for a few more years. Apple’s superb PR machine informs us that great things are afoot, such as an ‘iwatch’. But Google is already ahead with ‘Google Glass’, and is producing, by the way, it’s own version of a smartphone watch. Where is Apple in the new field of wearable technology? There is now a real danger that Apple’s iphones will be sectioned off as being an exclusive but isolated communications service. In today’s world, horizontal communications with all other electronic systems and devices is needed, as no single company can hope to produce the best in every field. The argument is similar to that if free trade vs. protectionism. Are we going to have ‘Apple fridges’ and ‘Apple Cars?’, because that is what we are going to need if Apple is going to maintain it’s closed-door policy. Apple produces superbly engineered, beautiful devices that we all agree are a pleasure to use, but that is no longer enough. The Nexus 4, for example, has a faster processor, built in NFC, a more capable battery, a higher display resolution, bigger RAM and other advantages. And of course it has some standard interfaces like USB, HDMI etc, that makes it more compatible to other devices without any adaptors. Nexus and Apple prices vary, but the Apple machines are universally at least one third more expensive than the new Androids. Google, having gained the upper hand may turn round to Apple and say; ‘we don’t want you to use our maps on your phones any more.’

What’s On

Concerts

plean is a rather famous Russian rock band and they have maintained their popularity since Soviet Union times. Justin Bieber is a real heartthrob. He has millions of fans all over the world as in Russia. In some countries schools have been even closed because of his performance, exams have been postponed and lots of other wonderful things have happened due to this guy. The Baseballs is a rock and roll band that became very popular with its 50s and 60s rock style cover versions on popular songs of different pop singers. The Australian Pink Floyd Show in Crocus City Hall is one of the most anticipated events in Moscow! Everyone knows the legendary group Pink Floyd for its philosophical lyrics and extraordinary acoustic experiments! This is no more than a tribute show, but it’s also incredible to get to hear these songs again. Can’t wait to see this Show! Gritty voiced Joe Cocker is amazing because he just keeps going! Lana Del Rey is an American singer and rapper noted for its references to various aspects of pop culture, particulary that of the American 50s and 60s. Welcome, Lana! The Killers are getting together again and performing on 26/06 at Crocus City Hall. If you like Indie and Alternative rock, you should listen to this band. Gorky Park will be overcrowded in June because of the Subbotnik Fest. This year the main guests are Arctic Monkeys, Hurts and many others.

Here are some of the bigger concerts coming up this summer. a Enjoy! usikhin

Dasha

17/05

23/05 and 27/05

The Baseballs Arena Moscow

The Australian Pink Floyd show - Crocus City Hall

1/06

8/06

Joe Cocker Crocus City Hall

Lana del Rey Crocus City Hall

21/06

26/06

12/06

30 Seconds to Mars, Simple Plan, HIM - Maxidrom

6/07

Green Day Olympic Stadium

The Killers Crocus City Hall

17/07

23/07

Imagine Dragons Arena Moscow

The XX Crocus City Hall

20/08

Arctic Monkeys, Hurts, Foals - Subbotnik Festival The Rasmus Live Music Hall

Health Health is a very touchy thing. Most expats have pretty strong feelings about the Russian Health Service. In the first of a series of articles about health care available in Moscow, Moscow expat Life looks at what is available free or comparatively cheaply from the Russian Health Service. Following articles will look at semi-private and private options.

In Moscow?

fficially, when it comes to life-threatening situations, Moscow has absolutely free medical assistance. You don’t need to show your medical insurance policy if your guts are hanging out after a car accident. Emergency medical care is provided to all foreign nationals in case of lifethreatening conditions that require immediate medical treatment. No foreigner I know of has ever been refused access to care in an emergency. The question is, what kind of care? This question is fairly academic in 90% of real emergencies, as there may not be time to summon an ambulance from your private health

Julia Popova

How Care About Health Care

care provider, and traffic jams may make it impossible for them to reach you anyway. Private health care providers may rely on Russian emergency services to deliver their patients to them. If you have private medical insurance, it is a good idea to keep an updated insurance document with you at all times. Having been put into an ambulance, you will then be taken to a local Russian state-run hospital, unless your insurance states you to be taken elsewhere, where you will be given first aid and emergency surgery when necessary. After that, The Russian health care system does not have to provide any further treatment to people without a ‘Compulsory Medical Insurance’

which virtually all Russians have. Without such a policy, the foreign national will not be offered free treatment for a hip operation, for example, unless he is danger of dying. With a policy, he can get surgery for free, but only if he waits anything from a few weeks to a few months, as resources in the Russian Health Service are limited as they are in most countries’ national health services. There is usually some paper work involved but all of these issues do not present insurmountable problems if you speak the language or know somebody who does. If you are very busy and earn enough to take out private insurance, the Russian Health Service may not be for you.

Health If you want to jump the queue and do not have the time to wait your turn for surgery, then you will need to pay a certain amount of money to the private sector within most hospitals, something which is now done quite legally, as most hospitals have commercial departments. In this case, you can get reasonably good treatment at a very reasonable charge. There are as many different stories about Russian doctors as there are patients, but most of the people I have spoken to who have paid for treatment within the Russian health service were satisfied. You don’t actually have to be a ‘Compulsory Medical Policy’ holder to access these services.

get treatment for an ingrowing toenail. This is something that the local polyclinic will be able to handle, and at this level, in terms of quality of treatment, there probably won’t be a vast difference between the treatment provided by the Russian Health Service and that provided by the private sector, apart from the fact the polyclinic’s facilities may not be as clean as that of a private hospital, and the attitude is different. When I, for example, had to have one my big toenails removed, I was given a lecture about why I look after my feet so badly in the first place. I wasn’t expecting his little telling off, but it was actually very useful. The

Emergency treatment aside, ‘Compulsory Medical Policy’, holders are able to get free consultations in the nearest polyclinic to where he or she lives. So if your ear is blocked up, you have an ingrowing toe nail or you think you have cancer, you can get to see a specialist and undergo all necessary scans, tests for free. Clearly, you will have to be prepared to wait in line for to see a specialist. Whilst there may be only a few days wait to get to see a doctor to clean your ears out, it may take a week or two to

equipment at many state clinics and polyclinics is now vastly improved in comparison to the situation 10 years ago, however it may take you a couple of weeks to get all the necessary scans done before any surgery can take place, if you have cancer for example. Getting a ‘Compulsory Medical Insurance’ is easy if you have a residence permit вид на жительство or a temporary residence permit, even a longterm visa. Further details can be found on the site: http://www.

mgfoms.ru which is a Russian language site. You have to scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on: Реестр пунктов выдачи полисов. So what do those foreigners who have used the Russian health care system think of it? Aikm “Right now in case of health problems I go to the public hospital mostly. All I needed was a policy which I was given for free because I have a permanent visa. In you go to a pubic hospital, you should be prepared to wait for a doctor for a long time. You may be told something like: ‘the doctor is sick’. “If you are healthy and need to make just a check up, if you don’t want to spend money, go to the public hospital. But it is going to be hard in case you don’t speak Russian language. I can say 90% of doctors have poor English. Sometimes they try to understand you. But this is not everywhere. For instance, two weeks ago I went to the public hospital to have a check up because I was too weak to work. The women at reception asked me: ‘If you don’t speak Russian then why are you here?!’ I didn’t want to reply her, for me it was painful. “Before I got my permanent visa I went to the American Medical Center and it is quite OK. The quality of treatment in a public hospital and in a private one is the same but the attitude is different. You buy your own medicines in both types of clinic. But in the private clinics and hospitals there it is much more of a personal touch. They ask you more questions and basically look after you better. “If we talk about urgent treatment, the Russian system works well. If you need surgery or

Thanks to Alexander Khoderevich, the head doctor of the People’s Freindship University Medical Centre, and of Moscow Polyclinic No. 25.

Health you had an accident or you are in a serious condition you are taken into a hospital. They will treat you well. I think in that way they are very good because it is not the weekly check up, it is something like life threatening. Even in case you don’t have the documents they won’t tell you to go away. “Two years ago, for example I came down with pneumonia. Fortunately for me, my friends called an ambulance and they took me to a hospital. I spent one week there and then I was transferred to a special clinic at Taganskaya. I was treated completely free of charge and I am quite satisfied. In 2009 one of my friends had a cancer. He was here and he needed quick treatment. He is from UK. The ambulance took him to a special cancer center at Kaschirskaya. As my friend had no insurance but was ready to pay, he was admitted to the hospital, before making payment, by the way. My friend had two operations. The first one cost him 200,000 roubles. They gave him a private room, and he didn’t complain about the treatment. Whatever they did to him, it worked. It is saved his life because of immediate medical intervention.

Haidar Abdulla is studying engineering. He has been studying at Peoples’ Friendship University of Russia for 6 years. He is one of the few who is completely satisfied with the Russian Medical Care. In comparison with his country Syria, the Russian medical service surprised him a lot – in a positive way.

Thierry Cellerin fortunately. When I needed a doctor for the first time, my director advised me to go to the hospital on Profsouyznaya. He said that it is for free and it is good. If somebody had told me beforehand about the public medical system in Russia I would never have gone there. The service was terrible. The system itself is very strange. You have to queue to go to the doctor, than you have to queue to the place where you should say that

“I have a one year visa which I have to renew every year. My insurance is voluntary. Usually I

you have visited the specialist and give the documents with the medical insurance. Then I said why should I do this and waste 8 hours of my life when I can pay 1000 rubles and get straight ahead? So I bribed people in the line. In general the doctor was not bad and the treatment was ok. I should have come back to get another X-ray, but I never did. I stopped using that insurance.

go to the Medical Center of my University or Moscow Public polyclinic №25 when I am sick. “The first thing which pleased me a lot is the annual medical check-up. We don’t have such a system in Syria. At home, people get to see a doctor when their illness has already become serious, whereas an annual examination helps to prevent illness. “I like the medical treatment

Haidar Abdulla

Thierry Cellerin came to Russia from France about 10 years ago, and has now set up his own business. He treats health issues no less seriously than business affairs and chooses Private Health Care System. Within the first 3 years French person is here, he can get medical assistance paid for by the French government, but the amount claimable is very small. So as I was stuck to the National French System it cost me 300 euro a year. Three years later I got Russian insurance from my company which included public hospital care only. I am a healthy man who never had huge things wrong,

Business Insights and the doctor’s attention to the patients. All the specialists I had are quite friendly. I can say that they never refused to give me a consultation. I am a healthy man and normally need a full check up once a year. I have never been taken to a hospital but I know how the doctors work. Several years ago on Sunday morning I injured my leg. There was nothing serious but I needed help. So despite a day off I found a surgeon who carried out a small operation, everything went really well. Another story I remember concerns my friend. We were playing football when he fell passing the ball. His leg was badly injured. The ambulance came in 5 minutes, and he is fully recovered now. Evgeny Avetissov, M.D, EMC Medical Director

patients who have been exposed to the Russian Health Care System is that some very strange systems of treatment are used, very strange use of prescriptions etc. Sometimes their use is not really logical or done according to international guidelines. There is a clear disconnection between the Russian and international medical systems such as in Europe or America and this is a big problem, in my opinion.“ Tanguy de Lassagne, General Manager Russia,International SOS

What do you think about the Russian Health Service?

Evgeny Avetissov

What do you think of the Russian Health Care System? “I think that the problem is the qualifications of the doctors. What we can see from talking to

“After a long period of stagnation, considerable amounts of money are now being invested into building hospitals, procurement of brand new equipment, infrastructure and training of medical staff. Yet the Russian system is not what Western expat would be used to. It remains very bureaucratic, patients should wait in queues for some 1 - 2 weeks until for treatment, and there is a lot of paper work to fill in.

“Ambulances are technically inferior to their western counterparts. Once in hospital, wards are often basic 4-6-8 bedded with no nurse call system and obsolete or no oxygen piping. Hygiene standards are infrequently not being adhered to and nosocomial flora not properly monitored. “There is an ongoing shortage of nurses and doctors in some areas (emergency, ICU). Medical staff is often overloaded and demotivated being remunerated far below levels dictated by basic common sense. The level of care is overall known as badly substandard with inattention, unprofessional behavior, long waits, and inconsistent access to some specialists and in adherence to internationally accepted guidelines. Over-prescription is common. “It is said that doctors trained and graduated before the end of Soviet era are very good. But English is not spoken by many doctors and nurses – the further from big cities the less the likelihood. I will not talk about mention fake medications – this does not seem to be a problem now.

AVELING OVERSEAS

LL AUSTRALIANS TR N OF AUSTRALIANS A

REGISTRATIO

register on are encouraged to ov.au/, or call +7 (495) 232-3253. http://smartraveller.g t or find you in will help us to contac ation you provide ance or family The registration inform disaster, civil disturb l ra tu na a is it er th an emergency - whe w. ian Embassy in Mosco al str Au y. nc ge er em

Health

Your health in your hands: Municipal Health Facilities and Documents

n my previous articles in this magazine, I have explored the challenges of accessing and receiving quality treatment while abroad. Being as healthy as possible is key to a successful posting abroad. One of expats’ main concerns about moving to a capital city is whether the environment and lifestyle will render you unhealthy and/or unfit. Check out your level of fitness better at http://www.nhs.uk/LiveWell/ Fitness/Pages/Fitnesshome.aspx Soviet Moscow established a network of Parks of Rest and Culture, designed to encourage workers to get out for some fresh air and exercise to maintain the health of the population; and recent investment means that keeping fit in Moscow has never been so easy. Most residential buildings have a children’s playground (detsky sad) and local shale basketball or tennis court, doubling as a 5 a side football pitch. This heritage remains important and recently a directorate for the Development of Recreation and Leisure Parks of Moscow (Mosgorpark) was set up in 2011 to invest in the recreation industry and increase responsibility for the results of the work of parks, museum estates and museum preserves. The medical profession knows that the success of a fitness programme depends on how interesting and enjoyable the chosen activity is. What is bliss for Peter can torture for Paul. But the good news is that most sporting interests are catered for in both informal and formal settings. This article explores the opportunities available beyond the scope of the

Lucy Kenyon, SCPHN, M.Med.Sci., RGN existing expat clubs. One of the charmingly bureaucratic challenges of Russia is the requirement for a Spravka before you can access or participate in community activities. Before we even arrive in Russia, most of us have submitted ourselves to a raft of medical tests for anything from intestinal worms to HIV, in order to provide the supporting documentation (Spravka) to accompany the visa application form. The other factor that can affect expats’ enjoyment of municipal recreational facilities is the Russian cultural expectation that the facilities are structured rather than open and visitors are expected to practice or train, rather than ‘enjoy’. Thus swimming is expected to be done in lengths,

Health

Soviet Moscow established a network of Parks of Rest and Culture, designed to encourage workers to get out for some fresh air and exercise to maintain the health of the population

rather than the informal ‘splosh’ sessions that are commonplace in the West. Private gyms, spas and clubs offer the expat a chance to participate without constraint or a spravka, but at a cost. If you do decide to join a gym, check out all the contract options. For example at http://www.hardcandyfitness.com/en/, the 10 month contract includes several training sessions whereas the annual contract only includes one. Many hotels have private fitness clubs, so if the gym or pool is your thing, check out our listings on page xxx. We recognise that many expats now arrive on less generous or local contracts, so here is a guide to keeping fit without forking out a mortgage... Several locations in Moscow are informally known for regular activities such as martial arts classes and dancing on the embankment. As soon as the sun comes out, large groups of people appear with music systems and amplifiers and impromptu sports activities take place. Following the development of Gorky Park in 2011 to offer summer and winter sports and recreation, the winter of 2012 saw the results of the city’s investment into municipal sports and leisure facilities. This winter Sokolniki and other parks

featured skating rinks, slides and ice sculptures and more is planned for the summer. Free classes are dotted around the parks offering roller blading or table tennis. Plans are afoot to develop dedicated cycling lanes by 2016, but in the meantime the embankment along the river from the Kremlin past the Olympic stadium Sparrow Hills to Kievskaya offers a safe round circuit for cyclists and roller bladers. Other cyclist friendly locations include Ostankino Park at VDNKh and Krylatsky hills and the embankment on the 229 bus route between Molodyozhnaya and Krylatskaya metro. Swimming and fitness training present a separate hurdle. Despite the plethora of municipal health and fitness facilities on offer, many of these remain unused by the expat community because of seemingly bureaucratic hurdles before you an access them. The intention of the Spravka is laudable. The certificate that is issued states that the bearer has been checked for and confirmed free of gastro-intestinal parasites such as worms and skin infections such as warts & verrucas. Whilst we would all like to be reassured that no one with a verruca or gastro-enteritis is using the facilities when we are, the reality is that these are only reliable for the day the tests were done. The certificate is then valid for 12 months from the date of issue – meaning that the certificate is effectively

predicting that the bearer will have no conditions affecting their fitness to use the pool during the following year! Various expat blogs recount often hilarious stories of trying to use local polyclinics to obtain the spravka. For these reasons a simple Google search will generate several websites offering spravka services. For details of municipal facilities in your area, please see the list on pages 48-49 of this magazine.

Health

Gyms and Fitness Clubs

Private membership Do you have a favourite gym or fitness club that we have not mentioned? Please send in your recommendations for inclusion in future editions to editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Marina Club

Fit & Fun

50-meter indoor pool with 10 tracks and 12-meter aqua-slop. Open daily: 07:00-24:00. Address: Leningradskoye sh., 25a Metro: Voikovskaya Tel: 363-6061 Web: www.marina-club.ru

Chistoprudny Bul 12 Str 1 Mon-Fri: 07:00-23:00 Sat-Sun: 09:00-20:00 Gym, pool, saunas, Jacuzzis, aerobics, aqua-aerobics

Beach Club A surprisingly beautiful white-sand beach flanks the Moscow River, furnished with lounge chairs, beach umbrellas and a well-stocked bar. Active types can rent jet skis, play volleyball and even swim. Of course there is a place to dock your yacht. Leningradskoe Shosse 39 Metro: Vodny Stadion Website: http://beach-club.ru Phone: 495 979 9090

Trud Part of Planeta Fitness club. 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks. Open: Mon-Fri 08:30-22:15, Sat 08:30-21:00, Sun 09:00-21:00. Address: Varshavskoye sh., 14 Metro: Tulskaya Tel: +7 495 958-1501 Web: www.fitness.ru

Locstream rollerdrome 125a Bol. Cherkizovskaya Str. +7 495 161 8630

RollHoll Rollerdrome 3 Kholodilny Ave. +7 495 954 0158

Rollerdrome (Kant) Sports Club

Marriott Hotels Group

7 Electrolitny Proezd, building 2 +7 495 317 6101

Some hotels offer discounts to expat club members, e.g. BWC

Fantasy Park

Marco Polo Hotel Health Club

100 Lyublinskaya Str. +7 495 641 3451

Spiridonovsky Per 9 Daily: 12:00-24:00 Tel: +7 495 202 0381

Atlantis fitness club Mezhdunarodnaya 1, Krasnopresnenskaya Nab 12 Tel: +7 495 937 0373

Hard Candy B.Kislovskiy per 9 Moscow Russia 125009 Front Desk: +7 495 933 7100 Mon - Fri: 7:00-24:00 Weekends and Holidays: 09:00-10:00

Adrenalin Sports and Entertainment Center 1 Chermyansky Proezd +7 495 221 0105

Dr.Loder â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Fitness club in Moscow 103031 Moscow, Strastnoy bulvar, 10/1 Metro: Strastnoy Bulvar E-mail: strastnoy@doctor-loder.ru Tel.: +7 495 775 7474, +7 495 775 7400

Health

Municipal Chaika Sports Complex 25-meter and 50-meter open-air pools. Two paddling pools. Tennis courts Open Mon-Sat 07:00-22:30, Sun 08:30-19:30. Address: Turchaninov per., 1/3 Metro: Park Kultury Tel: +7 499 246 1344 Web: www.chayka-sport.ru

CSKA Sport Complex Well-established sport complex. 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks. Open daily: 07:00-23:00. Address: Leningradsky prosp., 39, str. 9 Metro: Aeroport Tel: +7 495 613 6907 Web: www.cska.ru

Fili 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks and two paddling pools. Open daily: 07:15-22:00. Address: Bolshaya Filyovskaya ul., 18a Metro: Bagrationovskaya Tel: +7 499 148 3046

Izmailovo 50-meter indoor pool with a paddling pool and a jumping pool. Open daily: 07:00-19:45. Address: Sirenevy bulv., 2 Metro: Cherkizovskaya Tel: +7 499 166 8945

Luzhniki Outdoor 50-meter and 25-meter pools, two 25-meter indoor pools and one 25-meter indoor children’s pool. Open Mon-Fri 07:00-22:00, Sat 07:00-18:00, Sun 07:00-15:00. Address: Luzhnetskaya nab., 24 Metro: Sportivnaya Tel: +7 495 785 9717 Web: www.luzhniki.ru

Medvedkovo 25-meter indoor pool with 6 tracks and 16-meter indoor pool. Open daily: 07:00-22:00. Address: Zapovednaya ul., 1 Metro: Sviblovo Tel: +7 495 4767500 Web: www.skmedvedkovo.boom.ru

Oktyabr 50-meter indoor pool with 8 tracks plus a paddling pool. Open daily: 07:00-23:00. Address: Zhivopisnaya ul., 21 Metro: Schukinskaya Tel: +7 499 728 5390 Web: www.bassein-oktyabr.ru

Olympic Village - 80 25-meter indoor pool and a paddling pool. Open daily 07:30-22:00. Address: Olimpiyskaya Derevnya, 2 Metro: Yugo-Zapadnaya Tel: +7 495 437 1698 Web: www.ckod80.ru

Olympic Water Sports Center Large swimming complex: Outdoor Pool “Neptun” (50-meter), House of Swimming (25-meter and 50-meter indoor pools) and Water Sports Palace (two paddling pools). Open daily: 06:45-22:00. Address: Ibragimova ul., 30 Metro: Semyonovskaya Tel: +7 495 369 4803

Olympiysky Two 40-meter indoor pools, 33-meter pool with springboards and 10-meter diving board. Open: 07:00-22:45. Address: Olympiisky prosp., 16 Metro: Prospekt Mira Tel: +7 495 786 3266 Web: www.olimpik.ru

Setun Health Complex 25-meter indoor pool with 6 tracks, teen’s 15-meter pool (6-16 years old) and a paddling pool (4-6 years old). Open daily: 08:00-21:00. Address: Tolbukhina ul., 10 Metro: Kuntsevskaya Tel: +7 495 444 9223 Web: www.setunsport.ru

Torpedo

25-meter pool with a paddling pool. Open: Mon-Sat 07:15-18:45, Sun - 08:00-16:15. Address: Avtozavodskaya ul., 21 Metro: Avtozavodskaya Tel: +7 495 675 0279

Ostankino 25-meter indoor pool with a paddling pool. Open daily: 08:00-22:00. Address: Bolshaya Marfinskaya ul., 7a Metro: Petrovsko-Razumovskaya Tel: +7 495 619 9912 Web: www.sportclub-ostankino.ru

Beaches “Serebryannyi Bor” Take the trolleybus from Polezhaevskaya or Shchukinskaya Metro Stations. “Strogino” Take the bus 357m from Strogino metro “Vodnoe Dynamo”

Travel Kim Waddoup

rips to London are a regular chore for many expats living in Moscow and this is not just limited to the Brits amongst us as many use London for visa runs, business meetings and of course, shopping. In the past London flights have been covered by BA, Aeroflot and BMI. However as BMI became part of BA, the number of flights, convenience and price suffered in the aftermath of the takeover. It was with great interest that we all heard of the arrival of easyJet into Moscow and Moscow expat Life decided to put an easyJet flight to the test. easyJet is now the second largest airline in the UK and one of the pioneers of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;low/no frills conceptâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; so quite a change to the flights and service that we have been used to on our regular jaunts to London. Bookings are on line via a simple booking process. For additional charges you pay for your luggage and can book your seats. The easyJet flights are not specifically targeting the business traveller with early morning arrivals rather, most convenient

afternoon departures/arrivals to both London Gatwick and to Manchester. Correctly outfitted with my printed boarding passes I made my way to Domodedovo. The easyJet check-in desks offer 3 categories: General Check-in, Bag Drop and Speedy Booking. However, as often tends to happen in Russia no respect was shown for the correct lines. In fact my beautifully printed boarding pass was not requested due to the necessity of a typical DME boarding pass. This does however indicate your seat number.

Travel The incoming flight landed and there was hardly any pause between seeing the arriving passengers and then being called to board. The turn around time is very short. You soon notice that you are boarding a no-frills airline and expect crumbs on the floor and tattered magazines. Service is friendly and professional and the seat pitch (the space between the front of your seat

‘bridge’ from the main terminal. However a good walk after a flight is not bad. On my arrival, Immigration was not busy either for British/European passports or for ‘other’ passports. At least nobody arriving in the UK is called ‘alien’! My baggage came through quickly and I was soon in the arrivals hall ready to collect my rental car.

and the one in front) is actually acceptable. However do note that none of the seats recline, so don’t expect to be able to sleep that well! The food service is on a payment basis only. I don’t have a problem with this but the cultural differences now became very apparent. Most of the passengers on my flight were Russians and there were many puzzled expressions as passengers were confused with the variety of typical British snacks and drinks. Roubles are also not accepted (only Sterling, Euros or Credit Cards) sending many passengers diving through their carry-ons to find the required notes and coins. In general everything went quite smoothly despite the cultural and language differences. So a lot has changed if your use these flight. No lounges, no business class and no free drinks & food. However at a price of Euro.264 (including seat reservation and 1 piece of luggage) it was a major difference from the BA offer at that time of around Euro.425. For those of you dying for English style crisps you can get your first fix on the aircraft! I was not travelling on business and for my requirements the times were extremely civilised. Outbound flights were 14:30 to 15:40 and return 14:10 to 21:00. Arriving in Gatwick was a pleasant change as I always find LGW to be an easier and more relaxed airport to larger Heathrow. However be prepared for a long walk as easjJet gates are located across the

The return flight 4 days later was also amazingly easy. With easyJet now located in the North Terminal they have a massive dedicated check-in area. I have memories of queuing for an hour in the old South terminal but with many desks open I was checked-in in minutes. Even security control seems easier in Gatwick and the shopping/catering facilities are on par with Heathrow. A good walk out to the gate and this time easy-booking(additional charge) and the rest of us were separated. However all were on the flight without stress. Again the culture difference was still apparent, however as most of the guests had now spent time now in the UK learning our idiosyncrasies, the language barrier was not as evident. My only gripe was not being able to recline the seat, even a little would have helped. I believe that a blow-up pillow would be sufficient for the next flight! It is annoying however that the pre-recoded announcement prior to landing asks you to ‘place your seats in the upright position’ when you can’t move them at all! My conclusions. For UK flights I am not a loyal passenger. I will fly with anyone based on the criteria of the most convenient times and price. easyJet fulfilled both these points. I booked 26 days in advance. I believe that you can book much cheaper however this was, in my opinion and excellent price for a good flight.

Retro

by D avid

Mor ley

(and other WWII stories)

Retro

his year is the seventieth anniversary of the end of the decisive battle at Stalingrad which lasted from August 1942 to February 1943 and left over a million dead from both armies and countless casualties and deaths amongst the civilian population. The total devastation of the City, the horrors of fighting at close quarters in the ruin and rubble, the uninterrupted shelling and bombardment, the deprivation and wholesale slaughter must make Stalingrad the closest man has come to creating hell on earth in the history of human warfare. Although the price of victory at Stalingrad by the Red Army was high, the reward was the capitulation of the German sixth army and the continuous retreat of the Wehrmacht from Soviet territory from that moment onwards culminating in the final defeat in Berlin in 1945. Those of us lucky enough to have been born afterwards must stop for a moment to reflect on this and what it must have meant for our seniors living through those times. My father was of that generation and wanted me to take him to Stalingrad. I had to remind him that it had been renamed Volgograd in 1961 and rebuilt in Brezhnev-era style with some post-Soviet modern high-rise apartment blocks and a lot of bad roads. A few of the destroyed buildings are ‘preserved’ as reminders of the destruction and there are imposing socialist-realist war memorials to look at. It is not exactly the tourist attraction you would travel half way round the world to see. “Ah, but I want to pay my respects”, he said. “It was the turning point of the War!” He was in his late eighties at the time and, knowing his Yorkshire grit, despite his somewhat decrepit physical state, he was up for making the trip from where he lived in Cincinnati for the last twenty years of his life. Unfortunately, his second wife, an American lady, was not of the same opinion and discouraged me from the attempt. It remains for me to do it one day for him on my own, something I promised him that I would do. My father was only in the British Army for six weeks, but he was no slouch for the war effort and, despite not fighting, did his bit. He was called up for army training in 1941 and, having not learnt very much about how to fight Hitler’s Wehrmacht, was returned gratefully to civilian life to make steel for the war effort. Having been born near Huddersfield, in what was then the West Riding of Yorkshire, he remarkably avoided being sent down the coal mine like his father and brother before him and at seventeen enrolled as an apprentice at Samuel

Fox and Company, Stocksbridge, an important steel works in those days, about 10 miles north west of Sheffield. He earned his degree in metallurgy at Sheffield University by studying in his spare time and attending night school three times a week, walking the ten miles to the city, there and back, to save money on the bus fare. Some of those night school excursions were not without event. On 12th and 15th December 1940 Heinkel, Junker and Dornier bombers in several waves dropped high explosive and incendiary bombs on the City in an attempt to destroy the steel-making capabilities for which Sheffield was then renowned. Apart from destroying the Marples Hotel, a popular pub, the C&A store and some unsightly nineteenth century housing there was relatively little damage to the steelworks themselves and they continued to work almost uninterruptedly throughout the War. I remember as a nipper in the fifties being taken on shopping trips to Sheffield by my Mum when the

Retro the Stocksbridge works was obviously difficult to City centre was still in parts in bomb ruins. The find, made more confusing by the fact that the High Street was still a blackened, windowless front British boffins had built a replica of Sheffield and the back-end of the Cathedral was annihilated. somewhere on the top of the Pennines on the way When I look at the photos of the destruction of to Manchester. This false town actually got bombed Stalingrad, I am reminded of those images from several times with happily no loss of life, except my early life. I imagine what it must have been like perhaps for a few sheep. to be in that bloody mayhem Bringing the action back on the Volga, not on the Don. Those of us lucky to Russia, I overheard a But no matter how awesome conversation once at the bar in it must have been in Sheffield enough to have Silver’s pub when a young English in those nights of the Blitz, been born after expat was describing to a couple it was not Stalingrad. There the battle took of his incredulous drinking mates were no German soldiers firing a war-time experience related at you from 30 yards from place must stop for to him by his grand-father. The the debris of C&A; there were a moment to reflect relative in question was working no panzers blasting at you on this and what it the night shift during the War coming up Pond Street. Just in number two melting shop at a few thousand tons of bombs must have meant Samuel Foxes when one night dropping fairly randomly out for our seniors a lone Dornier, perhaps lost of the December night sky. living through those on an abortive sortie to find a In Stalingrad there was no suitable target, dumped a stick Uncle Albert knocking back times. of bombs over the steelworks. a sneaky pint in the Marples Some of the explosives dropped before the night shift and not in the goods-yard killing a guy making it back home to Auntie who was late for work and the others went through Vera’s for his egg and chips! There was no ‘hugging the roof where the open-hearth furnaces were the enemy’ tactics employed by the Soviets to working, dropping one by one into the molten steel discourage the German artillery from hitting their of each furnace with nothing more than a plop and a own troops. There was no Pavlov house to withstand thud. If they had missed the furnaces full of steel a 59-day relentless onslaught by the Nazis near and landed in open space, there could have been Victoria Station. There were just six hundred and significant damage and loss of life. sixty dead from those two nights of the Blitz. In The amazing coincidence of hearing this account Stalingrad, as many as forty thousand civilians and told independently in a Moscow bar was that the almost half a million Soviet soldiers died, equivalent same story had been told to me by my father who, to the entire population of Sheffield today! during this incident, was in the wire mill next door Samuel Fox steelworks, apart from one minor producing his rods for the Spitfire bullets! Small but quirky incident, was never hit by German world! bombers, although by all accounts they had been Another minor coincidence resulted in the fact desperately trying to locate it as a target. Dad was that I exist at all. There was, in the year following wire department manager throughout the rest of the blitz, a day-light bombing raid on Sheffield the War and had cooked up a steel alloy to draw which very nearly killed my mother. She worked as the rods used to make the armour-piercing bullets a shoe-shop assistant in the centre of town and, as for the Spitfire which had been very successful in the manager was busy, was asked to take the day’s knocking out German tanks. This must have been a source of annoyance to the enemy and a good reason takings to deposit in the bank across the road. As she was queuing in the Midland Bank, a German bomb to want to find and destroy the production facility. obliterated Saxone’s shoe shop and killed everyone Being quite well hidden in the upper Don valley, in the building. Having literally lost her job, she found another in her home town of Stocksbridge polishing steel samples in the lab at Foxes where she met the young head of the wire department. The rest is, of course, history! For this we have to thank the immense sacrifice made at Stalingrad, and a bit of Sheffield steel!

Retro

1990

he economy worsened and Gorbachev’s honeymoon with the Soviet People ended. Yeltsin saw an opportunity to play the card of champion of people’s rights against Gorbachev. The two camps solidified into centrally-controlled social democracy vs. a free for all Reagan/Thatcher-inspired market economy. When Yeltsin was elected chairman of the RSFSR Supreme Soviet, narrowly defeating other conservative candidates, he was already the saviour of the pro-democracy Russian intelligentsia who had long ago become disillusioned with Gorbachev. This was a remarkable achievement as Yeltsin himself was not an intellectual. Russians at the time had no idea what living in a capitalist country actually meant, what individual responsibility over personal finances, education, pensions and so on would mean for ordinary people. There was no clear idea about how to transform Soviet monolithic enterprises into competing firms capable of surviving in a market economy and making consumers happy. The over-riding idea was that if it’s western, particularly American or British, then it must be right. Yeltsin was a ruthlessly ambitious man, his drive was partly kindled by revenge. There were numerous examples of outright brutish treatment towards him on his rise to the top, and in this, he was as Soviet as all the other leaders at the time. With his sights on the top job, he saw an opportunity arising with the increase in autonomy of the Soviet Republics. Why couldn’t Russia leave the Soviet Union, particularly if I become its president? He thought. This would not only leave the USSR as being no more than an empty shell, but would also defeat his arch-enemy Mikhail Gorbachev.

John Harrison

Gorbachev had, meanwhile, been busy trying to re-brand the Soviet Union. But he did so in a remarkably authoritarian way. In February he persuaded the USSR Supreme Soviet to allow a multi-party system, as long as the Presidency; a new post which Gorbachev invented for himself, would keep power regardless of the majority party in the Congress of People’s deputies (the lower house). This rose a few eyebrows as people asked, er, excuse me, but why shouldn’t the President be elected as well? Gorbachev could have easily won a popular vote had he gone to the country in 1990. As result of such new legislation, a host of new presidencies were adopted in the republics. This only hastened their drive to independence. In June 1990 Uzbekistan announced its independence, in September, even obedient Turkmenistan did the same. The Soviet Union was falling apart. Now the road was open for the Russian Republic to leave, and make Yeltsin the most powerful politician of the largest country on the planet. In April Yeltsin was received by Margaret Thatcher. He tried to persuade her to deal with the ‘new free Russia’ directly, rather than by going through the Soviet government. Thatcher replied suavely that Russia would need to be new and free in more than words. The Iron Lady noted that “Yeltsin had thought through some of the fundamental problems much more clearly that had Mr Gorbachev” and, “unlike Mr Gorbachev, he has broken out of the communist mind-set and language”. But Thatcher continued to deal directly with her old ally, Mikhail Gorbachev. In June, Gorbachev pressed through new legislation to make it impossible for the communist

controlled politburo to intervene with the day-to-day of the economy, and the USSR Presidency alone became the fulcrum of decision-making. Gorbachev had succeeded. He was now President, but President of what? Yeltsin resigned his party membership in June which only heightened his popularity. Gorbachev was faced with keeping the remnants of the Soviet economy in place, which demanded huge injections of cash. Tough decisions on the economy were postponed, living standards fell and real reforms were only half-heartedly enforced. The so called ‘500 day’ reform plan which would have attempted to abolish most price controls, privatised state enterprises, and devolved the state central planning organisation all with one and a half years, was rejected in its original formulation by Gorbachev. This only reasserted Yeltsin’s position as champion of the people. Gorbachev then, partly because of conservative pressure within the Party, and partly because he was beginning to become sincerely worried about his own future, took a turn to the right. He had already had to sacrifice Alexander Yakolev, one the leading lights of the reformist intelligentsia at the 28th Party Congress in July. In November, Vadim Bakatin was asked to step down as Minister of Internal Affairs. Eduard Shevardnadze, the foreign minister resigned in December, and gave an emotional speech to the Congress of Peoples’ deputies warning of a new dictatorship. Ryzhkov left the political stage, suffering from a heart condition. His job as Chairman of the Cabinet of Ministers was taken by Valentin Pavlov, the Minister of Finance. The new Minister of Internal Affairs was Boris Pugo, who was known as an advocate of repressive measures. Gorbachev’s choice of Gennady Yanaev as Vice-President of the USSR was another indication that Shevardnadze’s fears were not entirely misplaced. 1990 finished with an air of impending doom.

Retro

The 1990 Perestroika Business

t is 1990. I have been in Moscow a year and feel quite settled. The General Director has left the Company and I now drive his Company Range Rover, apparently one of only two in the city and the subject of much interest at every traffic light in town, attention that I receive reluctantly. I have converted his former office into a design area which seats 12 engineers and our program of repairs to create a reasonable working environment is succeeding, so much so the staff tend to stay behind in the evenings to socialize, especially on Fridays. The Director’s fall from grace occurred because he was clearly making decisions that would benefit him at the expense of the shareholders. It was

a difficult situation because in complying with JV law we held only 49% of the Company and expected the Russian partners to support at any cost the man they had nominated. To our surprise though at the AGM they allowed the motion for his removal to be tabled and considered the evidence very carefully. To our greater surprise after the Board meeting the Chairman assembled the entire Company down to the cleaning staff and reprimanded then publicly sacked the General Director, in the process listing his failings and relieving him of his power of attorney, safe and car keys before dismissing him from the building. This was my first experience of just how direct and brutal the ‘Soviet’ system could be in enacting a decision,

h Frederickovic

a lesson I would not forget. We retired with the shareholders to a lunch of black caviar on buttered bread, mushroom juliennes, borsch and carefully delivered toasts followed by chilled ‘Krystal’ vodka. There was no further mention of the disgraced General Director. The day had started in chaos. We had a good story to tell with unexpectedly high first year profits stemming largely from our ship brokering, a side line we had pursued because it enabled us to earn hard currency selling the services of Russian vessels into the international market. The year before the Exxon Valdez had run aground in Alaska and we had been able to arrange for ships from Sakhalin to assist in the clean up effort. Now we were

Retro seeing the rewards and, with my Finance Director, I wanted to deliver the good news to maximum effect to the Russian shareholders but he was late for the meeting. When he finally arrived I intercepted him in the hallway and, out of earshot of the main players, I let fly. How on earth could he be late for such an important meeting and if, as he claimed, he had car problems what could they be that prevented him using alternate transport? It transpired he had had his windscreen stolen. I was well familiar with the need to remove anything not fixed to one’s car, such as windscreen wipers and even wing mirrors,

because due to the chronic shortage of spares for Russian vehicles these would be stolen but I was unprepared for this. He had been afraid to leave the car unattended in this condition so had driven it to work, but he could only drive slowly and had to stop frequently to warm himself up. It was the cause for many jokes later that evening and a fair reflection of the declining economy where you could hire a driver and car for a whole afternoon with just a packet of Marlborough cigarettes. As the year wore on I had more personal successes, the

main one being I found a property owner who was moving to Canada and who would rent me his two room flat while he was away. After numerous meetings with the local housing authorities he obtained permission for me to live there and we agreed a payment

I was out of the Russian hotel after nearly a year and now free to come and go as I chose. In mainstream society Communist Party leader Mikhail Gorbachev continued to preach ‘glasnost‘ and perestroika, and was elected the first President

mechanism that avoided use of hard currency within Russia. I now had an excellent view of Yuri Gagarin and accommodation that would be condemned back home by any self respecting UK borough council. Job one was to redecorate which I did largely using wood chip wallpaper, excellent for covering the uneven and cracked surfaces. The finishing touches were achieved with new curtains and flat pack Ikea furniture which I had carried piece by piece each time I flew back from UK. The bathroom and kitchen remained primitive but responded to repeated cleaning. The main thing was that

of the Soviet Union shortly followed by being awarded the Nobel Peace Prize but this did nothing to quell the growing unrest and dissatisfaction evident in the workplace and on the streets. Furthermore, another name was emerging in Russian and Soviet Politics, the newly elected Moscow leader Boris Yeltsin who some years earlier had been the first person ever to resign from the Politburo and who now openly challenged the President’s policies. Russian friends told me this was unprecedented, could it be that after the events in Poland, Czechoslavakia and Germany the year before there could be a legitimate challenge to the Vanguard party at the very centre of the Socialist arena? Conversations and debates with Sasha, my card carrying work colleague and I am sure ‘minder’, and the beautiful and intelligent Sveta were beginning to take on a whole new dimension as the year drew to a close and we moved towards 1991.

Moscow Personalities

The Inter

view

by Jo h

n Ha

rriso

Extraordinarily

Successful

Louis

Gouend

ouis Gouend has been working in the Moscow club scene since 1993, and has now earned the status of Moscow expat personality. Many of us know him for the positive and creative person that he is. In this interview with Moscow expat Life, Louis tells the story of how he got to where he is now, and how he keeps going despite everything.

“How did you get to where you are now?” “I’ve been here for twenty years, although I feel like I’ve been here for one year, because I am still learning. I was originally sent to Leipzig in 1993 after school in the Cameroons. My goal was to study automatic control systems. When I arrived I was a bit shocked because the conditions were not very good. I wanted to go back for the first few months, but my father told me to stay put for a year, after which, he said, I could move on somewhere else. But after a few more months I changed my mind. I realised that I like this country, I like

the people, I like the girls, I like the facilities because everything was very cheap, just after the fall of the Soviet Union. “I was on a four-year degree course, studying automatic controls applied to electrical appliances. At this time, I was part of group of young guys who were interested in having a good time, in having a rave, in dance clubs. But I really wanted to come to Moscow, and I came here in 1998. I started studying for a master’s degree in Moscow Technological University. From time to time I organised parties for my friends at the university. They were pretty much free-for-alls; anybody could take the stage. If somebody could sing, or dance, or tell stories, please, they could take the stage. I myself liked to dance and really got into that at the same time as studying. In fact people told me that I should dance for a living, that I should be a professional dancer. “That was in 1999, and the first club in Moscow opened. I went to see them and told them that

dancing is something I do, and I’d like to work there. They told me to come to a casting interview, and they accepted me. I started a parttime job there for two days a week. I got into the inside of this business very quickly. I helped them keep the performances new and fresh. I was the best dancer, a lot of people went to the club just to see my performance. I started to teach some of the clients who were interested in dancing. One day after 6 months, I went to the director of the club and I said that actually, I want more money. He said: ‘let’s do it in a different way. I’ll give you a budget, and you organise all the dancers,’ so that’s how I became chief of all the dancers. I then became art director of this club. After two years, in 2002, I moved to open a new club called ‘A Priori’, where I was promoter and art director. I was number two after the general director. But I was only there for a year because of a conflict with the owners. Owners often have one mission in life, whilst art directors and the creative people, another. Sometimes I am very stubborn and won’t give in. If I feel it is right to go on the left side of the street, and people tell me to go in the right side, I am not going to go on the right side, I don’t care what they say. So I moved again, and decided to open my own Events company. By that time I had some money, and I also bought a cafe in Byelorusskaya. I became a businessman and got married. Unfortunately, things worked out bad for the marriage and the business. Everything crashed, and I went back to the club business, but this time to the strip club business. I was one of the founders of the Safari Lounge Club, and I worked with Night Flight a couple of times of year with birthdays and New Year. I did that for five years. After Safari, I went to Club XIII, where I worked as Art Director for four years. Then I went back to ArkA club, where I had previously worked and which closed down and then reopened. In 2009, Gary Chaglasyan who I had known for a long time,

Moscow Personalities called me to work in Pacha which opened in 2008. Gary also owned Club XIII. I worked with him for four years and left last December. Two years ago I opened a Go-Go Dance Club. I think that Go-Go is a new dance style in Russia, I am sure that in 15 years, Go-Go will be like what hip-hop is now. After our course, girls gets enough skill to work in clubs as Go-Go dancers. But we don’t just teach dancing, we show them how to make costumes, how to do makeup, how to look after their hair; we have a full programme to help create really good dancers. It is not just for girls who want to work in clubs, it’s for any girl who wants to be more visible, more attractive to men. The school is called the Louis Studio, and now we are trying to expand, and are opening a school for art directors. I am also opening a school for models. I don’t want to work any more, I want to teach this business, because I have a lot of experience. At the same time, I am doing competitions, PR shows and marketing for clubs, cafes, hotels. I help them understand what partying is all about, how to make their places attractive and so on. I am travelling all over the world right now, finding out how it is done is other places; I am trying to develop this school. It is very important to see how other people are doing this.”

“What has changed in Russia in your business since you started?” “Before the Soviet Union collapsed, clubs in Moscow were not developed at all. The club business only really started in about 1994. Even at that time, you had two kinds of clubs: very rough places and elite clubs. I was always lucky to be able to work in the elite clubs. The elite clubs didn’t charge entrance fees. Why? So that they could choose the guests. At that time, the people who went to clubs had a lot of money. The normal price for a table was between $5,000 and $10,000, and the tables

were busy. At that time, Russians were open to anything that was new. We were one of the first clubs to bring in DJs, we were the first club to do Halloween, and people loved that. Now those times have gone, everything that could have been brought in to Moscow is here. People now have the money to be able to travel all over the world, so it’s difficult to surprise them. Now you have to be really creative. “Back in the mid-nineties, everything was cheap. We could afford to make really good shows for very little. So we had low cost origination and people who wanted to spend money. We were making very good money. Now it is difficult, very difficult just to get $5,000 for a table, which was previously the lowest price. Clubs don’t have money any more; you can get money only from the bar. Now all the artists are incredible expensive. Costumes are expensive, lighting is expensive, everything is expensive. Without money you cannot hire good staff. No longer are you alone, there used to be only one or two good clubs in Moscow, now there are six or eight amazing clubs, and the competition is very high.”

situation in Russia is very difficult for black people. For all those black people who are doctors, lawyers and economists, they go to Europe, Canada and America, and have more possibilities than here. For me it is different. I have a business in which I feel completely at home in. “In general though, as more Russians see more and more black people, Russians are becoming a bit more tolerant, so things are getting better slowly. People who want to have a quiet life, in a country where the government takes care of them, those people go to live in Europe. Here you can only be a fighter, and a good fighter. To be here you should be very politically correct, because you can create serious problems if you don’t behave yourself in the right way. Being at the top, and always in the camera’s eye, like I am, is very difficult. I’m not saying I don’t have problems. I do, but I can solve them. If things were really difficult for me here, I would leave. I have two educations, I have a master’s degree in technology and science, and a degree in economics, and I speak English, French and Russian. I know I can leave whenever I want, but I want to live here. I really want to do things here.

How do people treat you, a black man in Moscow?

What is your secret?

“Sometimes I think I am the only black guy in Russia (laughs). It is really difficult for black guys to live in Russia. In Europe, since the Second World War, people have got used to seeing and living in the same places as black people. But in Russia this process only started after the collapse of the Soviet Union. As one of my friends told me: ‘Louis these people are very strange. You can live with the same people for 10 years, but every time they see you they will always be surprised to see you.’ Even now, being black is still very exotic in Moscow. Black people are not here because they cannot make money anywhere else. It is easier for them to make money in Europe. The social and political

“When people look at me they see somebody who is still young, at least not old. Why? Because I am positive. It’s very important to be positive, and it’s very important to do what you like to do. When you walk, you have to walk in a way that is in harmony with yourself. Then people who accept you surround you, and you are calm. I am trying to turn all the negative things into positive things. My work is to create ways of making people happy. I am searching for new ideas all the time, and this is keeping me in a good positive mood. So of course, if somebody wants to party, just call Louis. If you have a café, bar restaurant and you have problems, please call me!

Social Movers Don Caig Chris Helmbrecht Chiara Pascarella

SUMMER TIME HAPPENINGS

Social Movers

Don Caig

Chris Helmbrecht

Chiara Pascarella

The words ‘Moscow Never Sleeps’ are true to the core, what they don’t tell you is that that the weather has no effect at all on the Moscow Party scene. The cool part of summer is that all the outside patios are opening up so that we get a chance to enjoy the outdoors and participate in everyone’s favourite hobby of people watching. The summer does lend itself to help in creating some really cool parties inside and out. You can be sure that Papa’s Place will be holding their famous Beach & Foam parties; both are something you need to experience at least once in life. This Spring will see the opening of new ‘Standard Bar’ as it opens its doors on the 31st of May and The ‘Black Bull Bar & Grill’, both promise to please creating two new live music venues with great menus & daily great specials. These projects are brought to you from the team of Doug Steele and yours truly. Moscow 105.2 FM is rolling out their lineup of summer parties at the ‘Jagger Bar’ hosted by your Favorite DJs and the ever beautiful Chiara Pascarella so stay tuned in and make sure you don’t miss out. As for me, keep your eye on my website www.moscowinteracts. com to check out all cool events going on in Moscow. I promise not to disappoint you and we have something for everyone bringing you different choices on a daily basis. BTW ‘Moscow expat Life’ ROCKS!!!

With the summer season starting, WE! will be doing more events on summer terraces. At the time being we have secured the Time Out Bar, one of the cities coolest terraces on Thursdays (4U). Besides this we are currently talking to O2 Lounge on the top of the Ritz Carlton for Friday pre-parties. We’ll keep organizing our monthly gig at Soho Rooms Pool Terrace, which is especially nice in the summer. Starting in June, smoking will be banned in all clubs and bars. Only the open-air venues will allow you to smoke a cigarette in peace. Apart from that, we’ll continue to do our 4U Parties with Jazz on Thursdays at Mendeleev and we are about to start to work with George Best, a new and very cool bar at Gostiny Dvor. Our main concept will mostly be a bit more quiet, but not boring! We see a demand for parties, where people can meet each other, talk over a cocktail and the music is good, but in the background. If you want to pop a few pills and get crazy, you’re probably wrong at our parties, but there are enough alternatives in Moscow, where one can get crazy. We are focusing on Slowhouse, Disco-Edits and Jazz, with a volume that doesn’t mak. How can you join our parties? You have to be invited by someone, who is inside our secret group already. There are some open events. Check our website for photos and invitations to the open parties: www.weparties.com

Actually when I think about summer events my mind goes straight to the number of weddings I will be managing together with my team – already eight in Italy and two in Moscow, plus in September I am organizing the birthday party of one of the most powerful Russian oligarchs, again in Italy. But lets talk about nightlife. In the summer I will keep supporting Ginza’s image, we are ready to open the Balcon and Manon terraces, enjoy the sun at Olivkovi Plazh and celebrate the warm season with great mushup rock and many live concerts at the huge Jagger veranda. We are planning to have a party every night!

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Moscow Personalities

ChetBowling, Partner, Alinga

Consulting Group

What is your experience in Russia? You helped set up a company here – Alinga – how did it all happen?

his is already my nineteenth year her in Russia. I first came to Russia from Guyana to study law at the Friendship University in October, 1991. Moscow had a strong impression on me. I remember driving into a city of no colour: it was a dull gray day, a dull gray road, and a dull gray city. During that first ride into Moscow in 1991, there was no way of knowing what an amazing future was in store for me here. I began seeing Moscow as a long-term opportunity in the early 1990s, when I was a student working in an upscale Mexican Restaurant, where Moscow’s business elite came to dine and I could see that business opportunities were opening up. While I was completing my studies in the mid-1990s, I went to work for KRES FB, a boutique financial brokerage firm serving private American and European investors investing in the nascent Russian stock market. After the crisis in ’98, when investors became timid, I started an MBA at Kingston University in the UK.

I completed the degree in 2000, just as investors were starting to return and to invest in the real economy as opposed to the stock market. Seeing this, I – along with my partners – saw that these investors needed legal and accounting advice to help navigate their business activity. We began Alinga Consulting to provide legal and accounting services, and to provide these services with the level of customer service and support that we know Western customers expect. In the almost two decades since I first laid eyes on Moscow, the drive into the city has changed enormously: the city is lit up with neon signs and activity. Alinga is proud to be part of that activity.

In your experience, has operating a small- or medium-sized business in Russia become easier since Alinga was founded? It is certainly easier. The time it takes to set up a business has gone down considerably since the late 1990s and early 2000s. It used to take about three-five months to register a business; now three weeks is usually enough. The time needed to get a work permit has also become much shorter (moving from a six months to two and a half ). However, the rules have become less transparent and are constantly changing. This is still a major problem since the early 2000s, as Russia has

become more integrated into the world economy and a younger generation has entered the work force, Russian professionals have become attuned to what ‘international-standard service’ means. In addition, it is generally easier to find staff with foreign language skills in addition to international accounting, audit, and/or legal qualifications. For example, in one recent case, a potential client insisted that the auditors working on a financial due diligence project would need ACCA qualifications. A few years ago we would have had to rely on expensive outside consultants, but we now have staff with these qualifications working for us. The current economic crisis has actually helped SMEs doing business in Russia. For example, the cost of labor and the cost of renting facilities – two of the largest costs for a business – have come down significantly. In addition the SMEs have gained a bit more negotiating leverage. In the pre-crisis, high-growth years, landlords would raise rents at will, even beyond that allowed by the rent agreement, and simply tell the business to “take it or leave it.” Employees too had the same approach, asking for salary increases on a regular basis and often starting just a few months or even weeks after starting work – and even if they had no argument as to why they deserved the raise. The market ‘correction’ has ‘corrected’ this… even if perhaps temporarily.

Moscow Personalities What major obstacles still hamper SMEs in the Russian market? Three things: financing, financing, and financing! Issues like corruption, administrative barriers are all relevant and do affect SMEs. However, entrepreneurs and medium-sized companies have learnt to deal with these issues – and since most of them are more flexible than bigger companies, it is easier for them to find solutions. However, flexibility does not help much when there is no finance. There is always talk about helping the SMEs, but few banks ‘walk the walk.’ One of my clients – a food importer and distributor – applied to one of the banks professing to offer SME loans. He was quite surprised when the bank wanted him to lodge the goods he intended to trade as collateral for the loan.

A second issue is transparent financial reporting. Even if the company wants to be completely transparent, finding specialists that can prepare IFRScomplaint accounts internally is difficult. They usually need to outsource to a professional service firm to help with monthly/quarterly conversion of RAS statements to IFRS, or to help them implement an IFRS-reporting module for the popular 1C accounting software.

What value do SMEs add to their respective economies? SMEs play major roles in most developed economies. They help bring flexibility and resilience to the economy, especially in times of crisis. They can be an engine of growth as very often it is not a major firm that finds and commercializes the ‘next big thing.’ However, the impact of this sector is still not fully

recognized or even supported in Russia. I once heard a senior government minster say that “Russia will never be a small company economy like Italy. In Russia we like big companies like Gazprom.” The major value of SMEs, and what Russia could really profit from, is the SME’s ability to empower people to make a difference in other people’s lives. Allow a person to start his own business, and he can provide for not only himself and his own family, but also create more opportunities for others to provide for themselves and their families. This is the most rewarding experience for me as the managing partner of an SME – to see a young accountant from Siberia come to Moscow and join Alinga as a junior and after four or five years see him as an Audit Manager, ACCA qualified, married with a young child, and in a flat that he owns.

The Front Line

Nathan Stowell,

Tex ta

nd p

hot os b y Na tha

photographer

t first glance, Moscow can come across as a photogenically unwelcoming canvas for the amateur photographer. Red Square can only be snapped so many times before your Krushevkaridden neighborhood convinces you there’s nothing else to shoot, and it’s time to put away the camera. In reality, there’s a wealth of photography opportunities in Moscow. Like most things worth experiencing in Moscow, it just takes a little digging under the surface. When I first came to Moscow long-term in 1993, there were a lot of things I missed from home, but what frustrated me most was the difficulty in finding a darkroom. For me, taking a picture was less than half the proverbial battle. The joy of photography was post-processing. Enlargers, red-lights, burning, dodging,

developer, stopper, and the occasional nostril-burning smell of sepia tone were what photography was really about. Without that, there seemed to be little point. And the advent of digital cameras seemed a perversion to me. But a cursory glance at photography history shows that as the medium evolves becoming more and more accessible (something many may lament), the opportunities multiply. It’s easy to forget that slightly under 200 years ago, you needed silver plates to show your pictures. Light-sensitive paper surely irked earlier photographers, but it allowed a far greater number of people to show the rest of us what they saw. The gradual evolution of photography from darkrooms to computer screens may similarly convince some that it’s too accessible,

The Front Line

but with the growth comes greater quantities of unique views and ability to post-process in ways we never dreamed were possible. Entire fields of artistic expression have sprung up requiring us to distinguish between photo-realism and photoshopped. There’s so much to see now. One Russian resource is the website photosight. ru. It’s almost ingenious in its simplicity. Photographers post their artistic shots for others to comment on. Over 1000 images a day go up in a myriad of categories from architecture and interior to the city to landscapes or nudes or macros (and recently to bridge the mediums between traditional and digital, they host a monthly exhibition selecting the best shot every day from the previous month). It’s Instagram without pics of dinner. Moscow has changed a lot since 1993 as well. For an architectural photographer, new buildings and renovation provide a wealth of potential shots. One avenue I’ve taken is taking pictures of officebuildings for real-estate companies’ brochures and selling landmark Moscow shots to restaurants for their interior design. I never realized that my love for

symmetry, leading lines and abstract shapes could actually serve as a means of supplemental income. Sometimes, the digging for opportunities really does mean going underground. A recent series of photographs I took was from Moscow’s metro stations late at night. You can shoot down there as long as you don’t have stationary equipment like tripods. There are other opportunities as well. I moderate a local forum’s photography folder in addition to light event-photography for friends and colleagues. The virtual aspect photography has begun to develop eventually encouraged me to open my own website (hosted inexpensively by www.500px.com). Utilizing the advances in photography’s technology can keep you visible. There’s much to do with photography in Moscow. Take advantage of the broadening world of photography advances and explore how your specific photographic specialty might be of interest to others. Make yourself known by sharing your work and keep digging.

See more of Nathan’s work on: http://limitchik.photosight.ru www.limitchik.com

Ex-expats dusty spaces and heaps of coal and, in the 1970’s, drunks transported there by the police to recover from the night before. Since the return of the monastery to the Orthodox Church these spaces have been transformed into a beautiful garden and orchard. The same is true of Sretenskiy (on Bolshaya Lubyanka) and Rozhdestvenskiy (on ul. Rozhdestvenka). The great baroque church of Clement Pope of Rome (Klimentovsky per.) has recovered its garden and reconstructed its gateway. Even small churches such as the church of the Ascension on Bolshaya Nikitskaya opposite

Nicolas Ollivant In Russia: October 1997-January 2000 with EBRD, May 2003-November 2010 with Cushman & Wakefield

f you visited the USSR any time during the 1970’s or 1980’s you will have been witness to the drab, colourless life of the country. Clothes were drab and badly made, shops hardly existed and what they contained was hardly worth the effort of shopping. Public spaces were just as drab as the private spaces. Broken fountains, stumps of trees lining the boulevards and no flowers. Was Moscow completely devoid of flowers? Memory suggests that this was the case but there must have been some flowers in the Alexander Garden, near Pushkin’s statue and perhaps in the Kremlin. Living in a city in western Europe, London, Amsterdam, Paris you see gardens, window-boxes and parks full of flowers. The contract between these cities and Moscow could not have been starker. Now that Spring has finally arrived in London we can begin to enjoy the amazing variety of flowers and trees

Flowers for Muscovites coming into blossom. Since 1991 Moscow has also been brightened up in spring-time by blossom but where do you find it? The City Administration has done a certain amount to clean up the depressing courtyards between apartment buildings but mostly these courtyards are full of trees. The Administration has also introduced flower boxes on some of the main thoroughfares. But where do you go to see a regular garden? This is one of the greatest differences between Moscow and London, the absence of small gardens. However, in Moscow they can be found. In Soviet times the areas around churches and within the territory of monasteries were used for parking, for depositing building materials or for rubbish. Since the small areas around churches and within monasteries have been given back to the Church there has been a dramatic change in Moscow. A visit to Novospassky Monastery (Krestyanskaya Pl.) would in the past have revealed no more than

the Conservatoire and the church of the Assumption/Dormition on Gazetniy per. have small but well-kept gardens. Seeing this transformation of parts of the Moscow landscape was one of the joys of Spring in Moscow. In a small way, the restoration of monastery and church gardens has symbolized the positive changes taking place in Russia. Of course in some cases, such as the Zachatievsky monastery (on Ostozhenka) the revival of the garden was accompanied by the rebuilding of a great church. In London it is easy to take for granted the huge variety of parks, gardens and squares. This would never happen in Moscow where even small changes have great significance. Was the lack of gardens in Moscow during Soviet times a deliberate policy or just a by-product of life in a totalitarian state? In any case, the horticultural changes that have taken place over the last 20 years are quite remarkable.

Russian Expats

What

do Russians miss About

Tom W is

Russia? A

fter writing last issue about what expats miss when they leave Russia and return to their home countries, I thought I should turn the proposition around and write about what Russian expats miss about home. As before, my research is not particularly scientific, but hopefully contains some interesting thoughts. Ten or so years ago, I remember the head of an international pharmaceutical

eman-C larke

firm in Russia telling me that, of his top 20 bestselling products in Russia, only 2 were on the list of bestselling products in his home country. He explained this by saying that for the most part, the medicines that were popular in Russia were ‘old’ (he must have hesitated to say ‘outdated’), whereas in the ‘West’, doctors were prescribing more advanced medicine. We smiled knowingly, almost certainly condescendingly. But now I find, from my own wife and from other Russian friends, what a nightmare British medicine is in comparison to Russian. For a start, says Katya, a 30-year old HR specialist and mother of Misha, 6, one’s relationship with one’s doctor in Russia is much clearer – friendly, professional, you can contact them directly whenever you need, have them visit at home (in a white coat!) and take your concerns seriously, not to mention offer treatment before they become serious. I guess private medicine in the UK is not that different, though certainly more expensive, but the National Health Service that

Russian Expats

most of us use really only performs in an emergency. In the experience of many of my Russian friends, British GPs usually have their minds set on getting to their next patient, an impression which probably has more than a grain of truth to it given the targetsbased culture of all our public services, and doctors are always reluctant to prescribe medicine when time might eventually lead to the same result. Unexpectedly, Russian medicine, though maybe strangely old-fashioned, is something that Russians definitely miss. One thing that Russia has in abundance, of course, is space. I’m not sure I ever really understood that, living in Moscow. I went out to dachas of course, and even managed trips north to the Kola peninsula for the salmon, and south to Astrakhan for the ducks, but somehow, the sense of space mostly eluded me. In fact, dacha villages just seemed to confirm the sense of people living cheek by jowl. But then my friend Pyotr (now in England) mentioned how he missed the fishing, and I noticed my Russian parents-in-law looking in British fishing magazines at the typical photos of grinning fishermen clutching the carp they had just caught (and would shortly release). They commented on how pot-bellied and unnatural the fish looked, not like the wild fish they caught and ate on their 3-week long, mosquitobitten, sunburnt, vodka-fuelled adventures down the Volga. If you want to fish in Russia, you can travel into serious wilderness, catch wild fish, and live on them!

a pot back from my native Shropshire. The response was withering: “Thank you for your Shropshire honey, but can you find me camel thorn honey from Kazakhstan or honey with propolis from the Siberian taiga?” I looked up propolis, also known as bee-glue, and found that bees use it to fill small holes in their hives, and people as something of a panacea for all ills. Though much promoted by the alternative medicines industry, I agree it is unlikely to be available in natural form direct from the producer. Then there is the lack of mushroom picking opprotunities. Sergei also mentioned energy! Who could deny that? The energy in Moscow has something to do with adrenilin, and however much of a paradise life by a warm tropical sea might be, something existential draws one back to where the action is.

Sergei Sokolov, a web developer and entrepreneur freshly returned from a year and half in Thailand, commented on Russia’s particular dairy culture. Thais are not big on dairy – no tvorog or kefir (not to mention buckwheat!) – though Sergei did acknowledge that fresh fish and fruit every day went some way to compensating for the lack of Russian comfort food. Again on the subject of food, Katya mentioned the lack of varieties of honey. In my innocence, I thought she was probably just disappointed by the lack of choice in Sainsbury’s, and offered to bring

My Moscow

Marina

Kashpa

W O SC

live and work in the centre of Moscow, although this is a rather flexible concept because the city itself is stretchable. My Moscow incudes places I can get to within an hour’s walk. The journey I want to tell you about is my 45-50 minute walk to work every morning. I live in Sadovaya Kudrinskaya Street. My block is in the middle of a yard off the main road, a line of buildings completely blocks out the seething, boiling noise of Sadovaya Kudrinskaya. I wake up in the morning and going out through the arch onto the main road and once again realise that I am in the heart of vast city. I am

and

hit by the pulse of low pitch horns – favoured by those who drive big black cars and police cars – various sirens used by others, melodies from mobile phones, which all merge together into a cacophony of sounds, into the sound of the city centre.

I love this large city sound. I love the rhythm of city life, the spontaneity and tension of every minute. In Moscow, just like in London, New York or Paris, you can just stand at a crossroad and watch as the kaleidoscope of city life twists and transforms in front of you. But all the same, I do have to get work on time. I turn onto Krasina street, away from the noisy town towards Byelorussky station. This street used to be called Zhivoderkoi, an old Russian word for knacker’s yard. There used to be slaughterhouses and meat stalls here on this street which lies just beyond

Byelorussky Station

Krasina Street

My Moscow the perimeters of the old city centre. As I walk past the meat shop ‘Myasov’, I imagine the steers tied up and frightened, how the smell of blood and fear lingered, although to be honest I only get these feelings during dark autumn or winter days when the mornings are always frosty and dark, and, walking purposefully to work (instead of being tucked up in my warm bed), I feel I am going to the slaughter house myself. Krasina street crosses Gruzinsky Lane – which is quiet, almost suburban; quite unlike the centre. But such serenity doesn’t last long, as the lane leads into Gruzinsky Val, which is in the vicinity of Byelorussky Station. Almost immediately, at the crossroads of

that there are a multitude of buildings which have something to with big-time Russian mass media. Yet another of the paradoxes of modern Moscow. these two streets the lively trading life of the station surroundings begin: small shops abound, where you can find everything from matches to fur coats, kiosks with cigarettes and newspapers, cheap books and magazines. By the station there is a market where street sellers flog a variety of goods on their stalls from sweets, to honey, toys, rugs and even bed linen. Here, in an inviting way, ‘people sandwiches’ advertise some product or other. These are people with huge pieces of hardboard with advertisements on them, strapped onto them, back and front. Traders, speculators, lure newly arrived people from the station to their dens, and all of this noisy, shoving, shouting crowd seems to move together as one whole. I always walk slowly by the station, firstly because you can’t walk quickly – there are so many people, and secondly, a woman’s curiosity forces me to linger at the stalls, scrutinise completely unnecessary knick-knacks; take aim for a totally useless yet fascinating Turkish consumer good, browse amongst the books. The delicious feeling of being at a market never leaves me. I cross Leningradsky Prospect and enter the labyrinth of the Tverskaya-Yamskaya streets. Another 15 minutes and I am at work. The streets are boring, there is nothing to look at – mostly 1970-80s buildings, so in my mind, I am already at work. I work out what I have to do first, what I mustn’t forget to check, who I should phone… One more turn and I am on Pravda street. Curious that it is precisely on this street with its loud name (Truth!)

Scandinavian

Summer Always on the menu are huge baked potatoes with a variety of fillings (gravlax, crayfish, tuna mix, etc…). A wok is constantly simmering with tiger shrimps, grilled salmon, and other scrumptious foods.

The Scandinavia Café is in a special location; it is inside a large courtyard, only 20 metres away from Tverskaya. But there are no cars here, instead there are green trees. Swedish people will serve you, and you can be welcomed in at least three or four languages. Beer and homemade lemonade in pitchers are the most popular beverages here.

on the Terraces

he 18th Scandinavia café summer season opened traditionally with a party on the 2nd of May, something that happens every year regardless of the weather. This year was all of plus 10 and heavy rain poured down from the heavens. Be this as it may, the famous Scandinavia hamburgers with beer must be eaten in fresh air to mark that summer has come to Moscow, and this is what happened in this most popular of expat outdoor cafés.

Scandinavian

The Flight Café, adjoining Night Flight is just a few steps away from Pushkin Square. This is a street cafe, an excellent meeting place where you can relax. The classic cheesecake is very tasty and very soft. You can spend a long time in the Flight Café drinking coffee, sipping a glass of wine, being slightly detached from the busy life on Moscow’s main street. You are welcome!

Business Insights

Moscow

now offers so many wonderful restaurants and great bars. Our aim is to provide you with Moscowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most extensive listings of Restaurants and Bars. In this issue it is an A-Z format and in the near future it will be combined with our inter-active website

www.Moscowexpatlife.ru

Our

wonderful researchers continue to work hard to produce this list, however if your restaurant/ bar is not listed, please contact us, and you will be in the next issue.

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants 02 Lounge

3 Tverskaya The Ritz-Carlton Moscow M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$

1-2-3 Cafe

6 bld.1, Bolshaya Cherkizovskaya M. Preobrazhenskaya Ploshchad Cuisine: Russian, $

1-2-3 Cafe

A&B Cafe

Ahtuba

Alter Ego

A. F. Koni

Aiko

Alye Parusa

8, Tulskaya bol. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ 9/1 Novaya Basmannaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Russian, European, $$

A.V.E.N.U.E.

11, Bulevard Dmitriya Donskogo M. Bulvar Dmitriya Donskogo Cuisine: Russian, $

8 km of RublyovoUspenskoye Shosse, Barvikha Luxury Village M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: French, Italian, Japanese, Russian, $$$$

1-2-3 Cafe

Abricol

29, Zemlyanoi Val M. Kurskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

1-2-3 Cafe

5, Pushkinskaya Square M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

1001 night

31 kor.1, Bratislavskaya ul. M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $

11/1 Burger Bar

15/2, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: American, $$

1920

10/2 str.2b,Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, $

3 Rooms

84/32 kor.1, Profsoyuznaya St. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$

32.05

Lipeckaya 7a M. Tsaritsyno Cuisine: European, Russian, Mixed, $$

Academia Cafe & Pizzeria 2/1, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Academy

Building 2, 23 1st Shchipkovskii Per. M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Accenti

7, Kropotkinsky per. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Author’s cuisine, Italian, Japanese, $$$

Acienda

39 Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Brazilian, Spanish, Cuban, Latin American, Mexican, Portuguese, $$$

Adriatico

3 Karetniy ryad M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $

3, Blagoveschensky Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

7 sisters

Africa

18/1 Olimpiyskiy pr. (Hotel Renessans) M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $

10, 2nd Vladimirskaya St. M. Perovo Cuisine: African, Georgian, Mediterranean, $$

1a Nijegorodskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $ 24 Frunzenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$

Aist

8/1, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

Akademicheskiy 1 Donskaya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Alazani

11/15 Volochaevskaya St. M. Rimskaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$

Alenky tsvetochek 6/5 Kostyakova St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Jewish, European, $$

Alioli

Profsoyuznaya St. 152/2 M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Russian, $$ 66 Aviatsionnaya St. M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Amarcord

6 Pokrovka St. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

American Bar and Grill

14, Kirovogradskaya M. Yuzhnaya Cuisine: American, $$

American Bar and Grill

2 bld.1, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

AMG cafe dj bar

13a Vavilova St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Amigo Migel

Ulitsa Neglinaya, 8/10 M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Spanish, $$

47 Leningradskiy prospekt M. Aeroport Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$

All-Time Bar

Amstel

Allegro

Amstel Bar

7/5 bld.2, Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$ Building 8, 52 Kosmodamianskaya Nab. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$$

Aloha Bar

2, Kievskiy vokzal square (Evropeyskiy) M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $ 2, Dnepropetrovskaya ul (Yujniy) M. Yuzhnaya Cuisine: European, $

Amsterdam

38 bld.1, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$

4, Ilinka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Dutch, European, $$$

Alrosa

Amsterdam Cafe

4, 1st Kazachii Per. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$

19a bld.1, Vorontsovskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Ananas (Pineapple) 11 Generala Beloborodova St. M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: Jewish, $$

AnderSon

74 bld.8, Leningradsky Prospect M. Sokol Cuisine: European, Confectionery, $$

Andiamo

10 N.Maslovka M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Andiamo

53/6 Ostojenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Italian, $$

Angello

60-letiya Oktyabrya Prospekt 3 M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Mediterranean, Japanese, European, Italian, $$$

Anna Mons

3 Krasnokazarmennaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Fish, $$

Annenfeld

17 Uralskiy St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, East, $

ANDIAMO 4/2 Stroileley Ul. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$

“Classy & relaxed café and restaurant. Excellent cuisine and extensive wine list”

Andreas

Kutuzovsky Prospekt 12 M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Anfilada

Olympic Ave, 16, M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, Russian, Mixed, $$$

ANT-25

24 Rusakovskaya St. (Holiday Inn Moscow Sokolniki ,25 floor) M. Sokolniki Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Antaliya

29/1, Proezd Dezhneva M. Otradnoye Cuisine: Turkish, $$

Aozora

12 Plotnikov Per. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, Russian, $$

Argento

104 Profsoyuznaya ul. M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Argo

Leninsky Pr 38 M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

19 Melnikova St. M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, Russian, $$

Apartment

Argument cafe

Apple Bar & Restaurant

Aristocrat

12/6 Savvinskiy Bol. per M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

11 Malaya Dmitrovka (Hotel Golden Apple) M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$

Annenfeld

41, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$ 6 bld.2, Lokomotivny Proezd M. PetrovskoRazumovskaya Cuisine: armenian, georgian, caucasian, mexican, european, $$

AROMASS INDIAN RESTAURANT

17 Uralskaya St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, Russian, European, $

Krizhizanovskovo 20/30 M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Indian, $ www.aromass.ru +7 499 125 6276

Annyushka Traktir Chistoprudny Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Russian, $$$

“The most authentic and best Indian food in Moscow. Delivery service also available”

Apropos

Arkhitektor

Aquarelle

Arshin Mal Alan

2 Frolov Per. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, European, $$$ 36 Krasnaya Presnya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, $

Ararat Park Hyatt

4 Neglinnaya ul., Ararat Park Khayat Moskva Hotel, 10th floor M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, $$$

Arbat

20 M. Nikitskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$ 152/2 bld.2, Profsoyuznaya M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: Azeri, Fusion, $$

Art-Cafe Etre

2/14, Lopukhinsky Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Artefact

11 Konstantina Fedina St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, , $

Artist Gallery

19, Prechistenka Street M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, Italian, Japanese, $$$

Artplay

Astoria

57, Trifonovskaya street M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, Russian, $

At PirosmaniТs

Atlantic

Baan Thai

ArtТs Palace

Atlantis

4 Narodnaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Cuban, Spanish, $$$

Balaclava Avenue, 7 M. Chertanovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$$

Aurora

12 Startovaya St. M. Medvedkovo Cuisine: European, mixed, $$$

Aurora - Restaurant Cruiser 1st Rank

118 Prospekt Mira M. Alexeyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

10 Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, European, Russian, $$$

Asia

Aurora Yacht Club

Asakhi

Krasnogorsk district, 65/66-y km Ring Road, TVK M. Strogino Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$

Assambleya (President-hotel)

24 Bolshaya Yakimanka St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Oriental, Italian, French, $$$$

AST-Mayak

8/1 Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, Seafood, $$$

11 bld.34, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, $

Aruba

69 Vavilova St. M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$

4, Novodevichiy proezd M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$ 2/1 Kutuzovskii Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

3, bld.4 Uspensky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Fusion, Georgian, Russian, Seafood, $$$

B-69

Moskovksaya oblast, 6th KM from MKAD on Dmitrovskii Shosse M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$

Avocado

12/2 Chistoprudny boulevard M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Vegetarian, European, Indian, Mexican, Japanese, $$

11, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$

Baba Marta

8 Gogolevskiy bulvar M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Bulgarian, $$

Bagrationi

1/7 Spartakovskaya pl. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, European, Georgian, $$$

Bakinskiy Dvorik 6 Stomynka St. M. Sokolniki Cuisine: Caucasian, Seafood, $$$$

Baku

12/14 Usievicha M. Aeroport Cuisine: Azeri, European, French, Russian, $$

Baku Patio

Bamboo Bar

Presnenskaya Naberezhnaya 8 M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Chineese, $$$$

Bank

1/15 Kotelnicheskaya Embankment M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, $$

Bar 1920

10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Bar Strelka

14/5 Bersenevskaya naberejnaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Barashka

20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, $$$

Barbados

5, Bolshoy Putinkovsky pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Indian, Spanish, Thai, $

Baku Patio 2

Barbontempi

10 a, Akademika Sakharova M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, European, $$

Balcon

Azon

Korpus 1, 28 Narodnogo Opolcheniya St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, $

8 Novinskiy bulvar Lotte plaza M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japaneese, $$$$

Asteroid

B-52

Balikoti

7 Litovskii Bulvar M. Yasenevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

1 Balchug, Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

6 Strominka M. Sokolniki Cuisine: American, Azeri, Georgian, $$

25/1 Bolshaya Filevskaya Street M. Bagrationovskaya Cuisine: Azeri, European, Russian, $ 10 Krylatskaya St. M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Russian, $$

Baltschug

13/9 B. Ordynka M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$

8a str.1 Nikitskiy bul. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Barbontempi

8 Nikitskiy bul. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Barista

Leningradskiy prospect, 47/2 M. Aeroport Cuisine: European, $$

Barista Bar

47 bld.2, Leningradskiy Prospect M. Aeroport Cuisine: Italian, $$

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Baron Munchausen 11 Mikluho-Maklay M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Barracuda Tavern 24/27 SadovayaKudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$

Barry White

1/2 Glubokiy per. M. Krasnopresnenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Bavarius

21/10, Komsomolskiy Prospekt M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$$

BBcafe

13 Skatertniy per. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Beavers

Ulitsa Lyublinskaya 171 M. Maryino Cuisine: European, $$

Bed Cafe

6 Presnenskay Val. bldg.2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European,Japaneese, $$$

Bedouin

Beer & Loga

23 Autumn Avenue (Osenniy bulvar) Bisness Center M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, German, Japaneese, $$

Beer House

2/12 Kozitsky Maly pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Austrian, German, $$

8 Mosfilmovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Belochka Bar

1/2, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Europeane, Russian , $$

Beloe solnce pustyni 29, Neglinnaya M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Azerbaijiani, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$

Beloye Solntse Pustyni

Bericony

Beefbar

13 bld.1, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, French, Asian, $$$$

Beeftro

26, Tsvetnoi Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: American, $

Bochka

10 Academic Sakharov Prospect M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

11 bld.6, Volxonka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$$

BEVERLY HILLS DINER 1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: American, $$ Beverly Hills Diner 10, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, $$

7, Strastnoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, Tuscany, $$$ 2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$$

BLACK MARKET Usacheva 2, Bldg 1 M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: International, $$

“An inventive and ever changing menu offering International specialities and friendly service”

Bellagio

Beef Bar

20, Malaya Dmitrovka M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Steakhouse, $$$

Black Berry

14 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ul. M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Belarussian, $$

29 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Arabic, Uzbek, Chineese, $$$

Beef Reef

Bocconcino

Novinskiy bul’var,8 LOTTE PLAZA M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Belaya Rus

57 Leninsky prospect M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: East, $ 13 Prechistinskaya Naberezhnaya, bld. 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Biblioteka

Blackberry cafe

10, Akademika Sakharova Prospect M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

BloggiBAR

Bolshoi

3/6 bld.2, Petrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$

Bon

12 Preobrajenskaya sq. M. Preobrazhenskaya Ploshchad Cuisine: European, $

4/4 bld.1, Yakimanskaya Nabereznaya M. Polyanka Cuisine: International, $$$

Blur Cafe

Bontempi bar

8/1 Bolshoy Drovyanoy per. M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

2/15 Moroseyka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, American, $$

6/1 str.1, Sretenskiy bul. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Italian, Corean, Russian, $$

Bobby Dazzler

7/13 Kostiansky pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, European, $$

Bobry & Utki

1A, Chistoprudnii Bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Italian, Thai, $

8A bld.1, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Bontempi Restaurant 12 bld.1, Bersenevskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Bookafe

3 Glinishevskiy per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $

Boomcafe

26/1 Sretenka M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

BOOZE PUB Potapovsky Per 5 M. Chisty Prudi, +7 495 621 4717 www.boozebub.ru

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants BOOM BOOM ROOM ul. 1905 Goda 2/1 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Pan Asian

“Bar, restaurant & karaoke with good cocktail and wine list. Excellent PanAsian cuisine”

Bora Bora cafe

14/3 Orehoviy bul. M. Domodedovskaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $

Bora-Bora Grill

1 Semyonovskaya square M. Semyonovskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$

Bosco Bar

3, Red Square M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: European, $

Bosco Bar

19, Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, $

Bosco Café

3, Red Square M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Bosco Cafeteria

3, Red Square M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Confectionery, $$$

Bosfor

47/23 Stary Arbat St. (Old Arbat St.) M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Turkish, $$

BottleBar.ru

2 Pyatnitskiy per. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Thai, Asian, $

Bouillabaisse

37, Leninskyi bulvar M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

Bread and wine

27, Bolshaya Polyanka M. Polyanka Cuisine: Italian, Russian, $$

Bread and wine

27 Bol. Polyanka Ul. M. Polyanka Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

Brichmula

3,19 Starovagankovsky Bystreet M. Alexandrovsky Sad Cuisine: Uzbek, $$$

Briz (ship Alexander Blok) 12a Krasnopresnenskaya Nab. (Embankment) M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$

Bruder

46 bld.1, Butyrskaya M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Brussels

10/12 Timiryazevskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Belgian, $$$

Brussels Catering

17/1 Myasnitskaya St. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, German, Russian, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

Bungalow Bar

6/1 Zemlyanoi Val M. Kurskaya Cuisine: African, $$$

Cafe

22в Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Cafe Ararat

4 Neglinnaya M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Armenian, $$

Cafe Bellissima

23 Olhovskaya St. (Hotel Mandarin Moscow) M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Cafe Brocard

36/1 Bol. Novodmitrovskaya St. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: European, $

Cafe De Fauchon

7 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya St., delicatessen Fauchon, 2nd floor M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, French, Seafood, $$$

Cafe Dioskuriya 5 Nikitsky Bulvar M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, $$

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Asian, $$$

Cafe Margarita

28, Malaya Bronnaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

Cafe Pushkin

26a, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Cafe Pushkin Sweet-shop

26a, Tverskoy bulvar M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: confectionery, $

Cafe Swiss

25/6 Kosmodamianskaya nab. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Rusian,Swiss, $

“Charming, bright terrace restaurant. High quality Italian cuisine, extensive wine-list and professional service”

Buffet

9, Krymski Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Vegetarian, Bakery, $

Cafe Manon

8, 1st Frunzenskaya M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$

24, Tverskoi Boulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, – onfectionery, $

Bulka

25 Nikolskaya, shopping center УNautilus, 6th floor M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, French, $$$

CAFE FRESCO

Bublik

14/34 Maly Afanasyevsky per., bldg.2 M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$$

Cafe Loft

Cafe Fresh

Calvados

Cafe Gotty

Cantinetta Antinori

2/38 Dobroslobodskaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, Seafood, $$ 24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

23 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $$$$ 20, Denezhny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Italian, tuscan, $$$$

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru = Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Cappuccino Express 26 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Polyanka Cuisine: Italian, $$

Capri

7 Academika Sakharova M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$

Carabas

18, Lva Tolstogo M. Park Kultury Cuisine: French, $$$

Caribe cafe club

18/18 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Mexican, Brazilian, European, Italian, Cuban, Latin American, $$

Carre Blanc

19/2, Seleznevskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: French, $$$$

Casa Mia

MKAD 65 km (Crocus City Moll) M. Myakinino Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$$$

Casta Diva

26, Tverskoi Bulvar M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Castle Grill Bar

7/18 Metallurgov St. M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$

7, Marksistskaya M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: French, Georgian, International, Italian, Mediterranean, $$$$

Castle Knight

Chaikhona є1

58 Bol.Nikitskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Castle Rose

10/1 1905 goda St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$

Mexico in Moscow. Good, food, good drinks and great atmosphere!”

Casa di Famiglia

Chaika

Chaikhana Kishmish

Bolshoy Cherkasskiy per 17, M. Lubyanka +7 495 424 5766 www.casa-agave.ru

29 Pr. Vernadskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Italian, $$$

14a Prospect Vernadskogo M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

4 Komsomolskiy Pr. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

CASA AGAVE

Casa Bella

Central Park Cafe

CDL

50 Povarskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

CDL Club & Restaurant

50, Povarskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Russian, Italian, $$$$

Central Park Cafe

14A, Prospekt Vernadskogo M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: American, $

Multiple Cuisine: Uzbek, East, $

4 Lodochnaya St. M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Mediterranean, $$

Chaikovsky

Building 1, 19 Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$$

Chicago Prime: Steakhouse & Bar Strastnoy Blvd. 8a M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, $$$

China Club

21, Krasina M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Author, Pan-Asian, $$$

China Town

25/12 Lubyanka Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Chinese, Seafood, Vegetarian, $$$

31/4, Triumfalnaya Squqre M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$

Chito Grito

Chalet

Chito Grito

7б Elektrolitny proezd M. Nagornaya Cuisine: European, French, Italian, Swiss, $$

Chateau de Fleurs

29 bld.3, Lomonosovsky Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, $$$$

Che

10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Latin American, $$

Chekhonte

22, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Chemodan

Gogol Boulevard, Bldg 25, M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Cherdak

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $$

Chesterfield

11 Trubnikovsky pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Geogian, $$ 22 Narodnaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Chocolate

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

Cicila

2g Minskaya M. Park Pobedy Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Cipollino

7 Soimonovskiy prospekt, building 1 M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

City Club International

23a Taras Shevchenko Embankment M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: International, $$

Cofelavka

5, Zabelina M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: – onfectionary, $

Coffee Mania

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Coffee piu

Coyote Ugly

Coffee-house УLandrinФ

Crab House

9-4 Suschevskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: European, French, Russian, $

6 Tverskaya Ul. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, Mediterranean, Seafood, $$$

DeFAQto

30/2 str.1, Bol.Lubyanka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: American, European, Indian, $$$

9 Spiridonievsky lane M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$$

Comedy Cafe

Crazy Hunter

Denis Simachev

Don’t Tell Mama

Conversation Cafe

Cup&cake

9, Chistoprudnii bulvar M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$

163a Dmitrovskoe Shosse M. Altufyevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $ 23\14, Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Correa’s

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$

Correa’s

32, Bolshaya Gruzniskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Corsa

78 Mira Prospect M. Rizhskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Cosmos Planet

The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Costa Coffee

Multiple location Cuisine: Coffee, European, $

Courschevel

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Panasian, French, $$$$

Courvoisier

Malaya Sukharevskaya Sq. Bldg.8 M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

6/3 bld.3, Kuznetskiy Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Coctails, $$

8 Dovatora St. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$ 10/2, Nikolskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

Da Cicco

13/12 Profsoyuznaya M. Profsoyuznaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Ded Pihto

37/3 Myasnitskaya ulica M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

12 Stoleshnikov Per. Bldg.2 M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$

Devi Cafe

Miklukho-Maklaya st., 21a M. Belyayevo Cuisine: Indian, $$

Dim Sum

Don Macaron

53, Lusinovskaya M. Serpukhovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Don Pedro

5, Putnikovskiy bol. per M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Donna Klara

21/13, Malaya Bronnaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Donna Margarita

3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

2 bld.1, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Home, Italian, $$$

18/4 bld.16, Pokrovsky Bulevard M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Dioskuria

Doolin house

Darbars

Divas

Dorian Gray

Darling, I’ll call you back ..

Dodo

Dacha na Pokrovke

38 Leninsky Pr. 16 Fl Hotel Sputnik M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Indian, $$$

7, Bolshoy Strochenovsky M. Serpukhovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Das Kapital

2, Merzlyakovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $ 10 Strastnoy Boulevard, Building 2 M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, French, Russian, International, $$ 21/2 Petrovka M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Dolls

20 Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, $ 6/1 Kadashevskaya nab. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Doucet X.O.

31 Novinsky boulevard, Trading Center ТNovinskyТ M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

23b Krasnaya Presnya, Building 1 M. Krasnopresnenskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Seafood, $$$$

Drevny Kitai

De Marco

Dom Karlo

Druzhba

Ded Pihhto

Don Ivan

Building 1, 6/9/20 Rozhdestvenka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, German, $$ Multiple Cuisine: European, International, Seafood, $$$ Building 3, 37 Myasnitskaya St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, French, Italian, Russian, $$$

6 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$ 10 Yaroslavskoe shosse M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, Italian, $$

5/6 bld.4, Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Chinese, $$ 4, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

Due Soldo

33/4 Narodnogo opolcheniya M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Cuisine: European, Italian, $

Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru = Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Dukhan Alaverdy

23-25/2 Gruzinsky Val. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Esperanto Lounge Bar

41a Vyatskaya ul. M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: European, $

Duma

Est-Caffe

Durdin

Etaj

11 bld 3b, Mokhovaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $$ Multiple Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Russian, $$

Dzhagannat

11, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Indian, $$

Eat & Talk

7 Mohovaya St. M. Borovitskaya Cuisine: European, $

Ecle

5 Oktyabrskaya St. M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

El gauchito

48, Kutuzovskiy pr. M. Slavyansky Bulvar, $$$

Elky-Palki

Multiple Cuisine: Russian, $

Emporio Armani Caffe

3, Red Square M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

40 Pokrovka St. M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $ bld. 1, 14 Tverskaya M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Etaj

9/28 Pyatnitskaya M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Etaj

89 Dmitrovskoye shosse, Trading Center ТXLТ M. PetrovskoRazumovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Etaj

2aya - Brestskaya 52/1 M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Eva

31 Marshala Rokossovskogo bulvar M. Ulitsa Podbelskogo Cuisine: European, Russian, Medeterian, Italian, French, Japanese, $

Evoo

15, Kosygina (Korston hotel) M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Ex Libris

6 str.1 Bobrov per. M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Extra Lounge

21-23 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$$

15, Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, $$$

Free Bar People

Farsi

French Cafe

2/1 Kutuzovskiy prospect M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Iranian, $$$

Favorite Pub

24, Spiridonovka M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: American, $$$

Filini Bar & Restaurant

26, 3 ulica Yamskogo polya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Five Spices

3/18, Sivtsev Vrazhek Pereulok M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, Thai, $$

Flat Iron Bar & Roadhouse

7,Voznesenskiy per. M. Biblioteka Imeni Lenina Cuisine: American, Russian, Mexican, $$$

Flei

8 bld.2, Lyalin Pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Farm products, Home, $$

FM Cafe

11 Novy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Europeane, $$

Focaccia

3 Kozitsky per. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Indian, $$

Fonda

2 str.90 Ugreshskaya St. M. Dubrovka Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

Free Bar

26/1 Trubnaya St. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: European, $ 3 Smolenskaya Pl. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$

French cheese hole 15-17 Bolshoi Cherkasskii Per. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: French, $$$

Frendys

28/6 bld.3, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: American, $

Friends Forever

25, Nikolskaya St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

Friends Forever

18, Kozijinsky per. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: American, Italian, $$

Fusion Plaza

12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: European, Italian,Indian , $$$

G Graf

8, 4th Dobryninsky Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Italian, European, $$$$

Galereya

27 Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, Seafood, $$$

Gallery

27, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Asian, European, Italian, Russian, French, Japanese, $$$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Gandhara

15 bldg.7, Rochdelskaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Pakistani, $$$

Gayane’s

Golicin

bld. 4, 15 Staraya Basmannaya M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Russian, $$

4, Sytinsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Spanish, $$

Happiness

Hyppocratus

2-3 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: French, Russian, $

15-17 bld1, Bolshoi Cherkassky Pereulok M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Steaks, $$

5, Bolshoi Putinkovsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, – onfectionery, $$

I Like Bar

11 bld.2, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Goodman

Happiness

Ichiban Boshi

Genatsvale

Gorki

1/4 bld.2, Smolensky Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Armenian, $$

Genatsvale

12/1, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Giardino di pino

30/1 str.1 Obrucheva St. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Gin-no Taki

6 Tverskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Ginkgo by Seiji

3 Tverskaya, The Ritz-Carlton M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$

Gino Taki

6 Tverskaya Ul. Bldg.1 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

Gino Taki

58 Bol. Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

Giovedi Cafe

26, Ozerkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Godunov

5/1, Teatralnaya Square M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Gogol-Mogol

6 Gagarinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Good Beef

Hamon and Wine

57 Leninskii Prospekt M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $$$$ 1/3, 1st TverskayaYamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

3, Kamergersky pereulok M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Confectionery, $$

Harbin

21, Shukhova St. M. Shabolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, Seafood, $$

IL Camino

5 bld.1, Prospekt Mira M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

4B bld.4, Kozlovskiy Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Italian, French, $$$

Harbin

Il Capriccio

8 bld.1, Presnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

Hard Rock Cafe

IL Forno

Greenwich Pub

Help Bar

IL Forno

GQ Bar

5, Balchug M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: Asian, european, russian trend, $$$

Grand Cru

52/5, Kosmodamianskaya Nabereznaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Pub Food, $$

Gusyatnikoff

2a Aleksandra Soljenicina St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Hachapuri

66, Niznyaia Pervomaiskaya M. Pervomaiskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$ 44, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: American, $$ 27 bld1, TverskayaYamskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, Tex-mex, $$

Hiro

bld. 32, 31 Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Thai, $$

2/1 Shluzovaya Nab., bld. 7 M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Hudson bar

Hachapuri

Hugo

10 Bolshoy Gnezdnikovskiy Per. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $

Hachapuri

7 Ukrainskiy Bul. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

10, Butirsky Val M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: American, European, $$ 39, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

Hunter

Golovinskoe shosse 1a M. Vodny Stadion Cuisine: European, $$

HuntsmanТs House and Safari Lodge

Building 4, 92 Lobachevskogo St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Italian, $$$ 3/14 Ostojenka ul. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$ 8/10 Neglinnaya ul. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, $$

IL Kamino

4 Bld.4, Bolshoi Kozlovsky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Swiss, $$$

Il Patio

Multiple Cuisine: Italian, $$

Illarion

5 Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: Georgian, $

Illarion

20/2 Pyatnickaya ul. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $

Illarion

119 Mira prospect, pav.67 VVC M. Botanichesky Sad Cuisine: Georgian, $

32 Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Cuisine: German, $$$

= Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Indabar

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Uzbek, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, $

Insolito

7/5, Pushechnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, $$

Inzhir

Multiple Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

Iskra Cafe-bar

36 Bol.Novodmitrievskaya M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Isola

23 A Tarasa Shevhenko Emb., Bashnya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

IST Buffet

16 Novoslobodskaya Ul. M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Asian, $$

Kalinka

Cosmo Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Kamchatka

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, Russian, $

Kavkazskaya Plennitsa

36, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Kebab City

5 Kamergersky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$

Kish-Mish

28, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

Kitaisky Kvartal

12 bldg.1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Chinese, $$$

Ketama

Multiple Cuisine: European, East, $$

5/6 Bol. Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Middle Eastern, Moroccan, $$

Kitaisky Letchik Jao Da

Kapri

Ketama Bar

Kitchenette

Khajuraho

Kitchenette

Kampus

7 Saharova Pr. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Karaoke Boom

46 Novoslobodskaya M. Mendeleyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, Russian, $$$

Kare

5/6 str.5 Bolshaya Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Moroccan, $$ 14, Shmitovsky Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Indian, $

25, Lubyansky Proezd M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Asian, Russian, $$$ Presnenskaya Nab., 2, Afimall City , 5th floor Metro Vystavochnaya, M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Brasserie, $$ Kamergersky Per.6 M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Brasserie, $$

Kitezh

Khinkalnaya

81, Vavilova Street M. Universitet Cuisine: International, $$$

42 str.1 Dmitriya Ulyanova St. M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Ju-Ju

Karetny Dvor

71, Bolshaya Ordinka M. Dmitrovskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$

2a 1905 Goda Ul., Bldg. 2 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: International, $$$

Khinkalnaya

Knyaz Bagration

Jourbon

15, Smolenskiy Boulevard M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Home, draw-heavy oven, $$$

Jukovka

41/1 Marshala Jukova pr. M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, Italian, European, $$$

Kabanchik

27 Krasina St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Georgian, European, $

Kabinet

Building 4, 15 Malaya Kaluzskaya M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Kalina Cafe

17 Prechistenskaya Nab. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, Russian, $$

52/1, Povarskaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Azeri, Caucasian, Georgian, $

Karma Bar

3 Pushechnaya St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

Kasbar

Building 5, 3 Turchaninov Per. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Arabic, European, French, International, Japanese, Seafood, $$

KATIE O SHEA’S Groholsky Per 25, Bldg 5 M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Irish, $$

15, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Khinkalnaya

11, Trubnikovsky Pereulok M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$

Khlestakov-Traktir

23/10 Petrovka St. M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Kleopatra

58 Pluscgikha M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Build.1, 9 3rd Frunzenskaya St. M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, Russian, $$

Kogo Fragola

Khorosho Sidim

Kolbassoff

Khram Drakona

Kolkhi

Kioto

Komi

17 bld.1, Pokrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Georgian, $$ 37 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Chinese, $$ 55 bld 1, Mitinskaya M. Mitino Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$

12a Suzdalskaya St. M. Novogireyevo Cuisine: European, Japanese, $ Multiple M. Oktyabrskoye Pole Cuisine: Russian, $$ 1/1 Leningradsky Pr. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Georgian, $$ 62 Volokolamskoe shosse M. Sokol Cuisine: Russian, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Konigs Platz

1a str.2 Kozitskiy per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $$

Koonjoot

36a Berejkovskaya nab. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Eastern, $$

Krambambula

352 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: Belarussian, $$

Krick

16, Strastnoi Bulvar M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

Kruaj

4 Prechistenka St. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Kruazh

4, Prechistenka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Kruzhka

Multiple M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: European, $

Kruzhka

15 Nikolskaya ulitsa M. Ploshchad Revolyutsii Cuisine: Beer Bar, $$

Kuhmeister

Build.1, 47 Piatnitskaia M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: French, Fusion, $$

Kult

5 Yauzskaya emb. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$$$

Kuznetsky Most 20 20, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $

Kvas

20 SadovayaChernogryazskaya St. M. Kurskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

La Bottega

Latuk

1/15, Yauzskaya M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: vegetarian, $$$

Lavash

5B, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

7 Tsvetnoi Bul. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Armenian, $$$

La Bottega Siciliana

Lawson’s Bar

2, Okhotny Ryad M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Italian, $$

La Cantina

5, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Mexican, American, $$

La Delizia

56a Sevastopolskiy prospect M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, Caucasian, $$$

La Gourmet

14/6, Bolshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Lazzetti

4 Nogorniy bul. M. Nagornaya Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $

Le Gateau

23, Tverskaya M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, French, $$

Le Gateau

1/3 Bolshaya Polyanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Caucasian, $$$

2 bld.1, Paveletskaya Square M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, French, $

La Luna

Le Gateau

69 Sadovnichevskaya nab. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, International, Japanese, $$

La Mancha

12a Kravchenko ul. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: European, Spanish, $$

La Maree

201 Zhukovka, Odintsovsky District M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

La Maree

Malaya Gruzinskaya ul., 23 M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

La Stazione

18/1 Olympiysky Prospekt M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, $$

Les Menus Par Pierre Gagnaire

8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: French, $$$$

Letto Club

33 str.1 Povarskaya St. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, Japanese, $

Lex – lubCafe

2 kor.2 Balaklavskiy Pr. ( Aridan) M. Chertanovskaya Cuisine: American, European, Caucasian, $

Life Pub

20 Fr. Engelsa M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Liga Pap

24, Bolshaya Lubyanskaya M. Sretensky Bulvar Cuisine: European, Italian, Spanish, $$

Light House

7 kor.1 Michurinskiy pr. M. Universitet Cuisine: Italian, $$$

24/27, SadovayaSamotechnaya M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: European, French, $$

Lilit

Le Pain Quotidien

LiLu

Multiple outlets Cuisine: Bakery, $

Lemonade

7 Kievskaya St. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Leningrad

21/40 Kalanchevskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Les

10/7, Rozdestvensky Boulevard M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Coffee, European, $

2 Ohotniy Ryad St. (Moscow Hotel) M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $ Sireneviy bulvar 25a M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Caucasian,European, Russian , $$

Limonchello

4 Komsomolskii Prospekt M. Park Kultury Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Linderhof

Korpus 1, 7 Lomonosovskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, German, Vegetarian, $$

Lisya Nora

2 Dayev Per. M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru = Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Little Japan

12a, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Lobby Bar

28 Tverskaya ul. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Lobby Bar

Lyustra

11/1, Vorotnikovy Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, International, $$

LТAlbero

Delegatskaya Str., 7 M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

28 Tverskaya St. (Mariott Grand Hotel) M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $

LТAltro Bosco Café

Look In!

Macaroni

Los Bandidos

Madam Boulange

9 Bolshaya Dmitrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$ 7 Bolshaya Ordynka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$$

Louisiana Steak House

10 Petrovka St. M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$ 62 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya Ul. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

12, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Confectionery, French, $

30 Pyatnitskaya, bldg.4 M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Luce

Maestro de Oliva

Luch

27 bld.1, Bolshaya Pirogovskaya M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Coctails, $$

Luciano

3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Italian, Author’s, $$

Ludi kak ludi

1/4, Solyansky Tupic M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Confectionary, $

Ludvig

3/1 Marshala Vasilevskogo St. M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Czech, European, German, Russian, $$

1/15, Kotelnicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Moroccan, $

Martinez bar

Mega moll-2 M. Rechnoi Vokzal Cuisine: Spanish, $$

Maharaja

Modus

15, Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: European, $$$

Maxima Pizza

78, Leningradsky Pr. M. Sokol Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $

Mayak

17 Klimashkina Ul. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Market

18 bld.1, SadovayaSamotechnaya M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Seafood, Asian, Chineese, $$$

Moo-Moo

1a, Square of Europe M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $

MUCHACOS 10 N.Maslovka M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $

Burrito & margarita bar with authentic mission style burritos, tacos & quisadillas. Happy hour specials!

Mayashi

McDonaldТs

Mario

vl.4, 1 Truzjennikov per. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese, $$$

19/3, Bolshaya Nikitskaya M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Maison Elitaire

2 Mal. Cherkasskiy Per. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: Pan Asian, $

Mio DJ Cafe

Maxim bar

2/1 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Indian, $$

Mandarin

5, Petrovka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Home, $ 1, Kaluzskaya Square M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: French, Italian, $$

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $

1 A, 37/43 Bolshaya Pirogovskaya St. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: French, Mediterranean, $$$

MinSelHoz

1, Sretenka M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Madam Galife

26/1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Georgian, European, $$

21, 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$

Marocana

Multiple Cuisine: American, $

Megu

8/2 Novinskiy bulvar M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$

Merkato

9, Krymskii Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Mestiere

38, Leninsky Prospect M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Milk and Honey 38, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, $$$

More vnutri

7, Pesochnaya alleya, Park Sokolniki M. Sokolniki Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $$

Mr. Lee

7, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Panasian, Author’s, $$$

Muchachos

Komsomolsky Pr 28 M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Mexican, $

Muzey

52 str.7 Kosmodimianskaya nab. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Austrian, $$$

Myasnoi club

19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Creative, Meat, $$$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Myasnoy Club

NIGHT FLIGHT

19 str.1 Kuznetskiy Most St. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$$$

17 Tverskaya St +7 495 629 4165 www.nightflight.ru

“Superb food at sensible prices prepared by excellent chefs with friendly, efficient service”

N Cafe

87/89 Leninskiy Pr. M. Universitet Cuisine: European, Azerbaijan, $$

Na Melnitse

24, Sadovaya-Spasskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Nabi

13, Prechistenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Asian, $$$

Navarro’s Bar & Grill 23, Shmitovskiy Proezd M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Mediterranean, Latin American, $$

Neolit (Kristina)

9/1 Altayskaya St. M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: Azerbaijani, Russian, European, French, Caucasian, $$

News&More

11 Novinskiy bul. M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: European, American, $$

Nobu

B.Dmitrovskaya 20/1 M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Japaneese, $$$$

Noev Kovcheg

9 Maly Ivanovsky pereulok M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Georgian, $$$

Nostalgie

12A, Chistoprudny Boulevard M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, $$$

Novoi

Old Havana

25 Universitetskii Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: Uzbek, $$

Talalihina St. 28/1 M. Volgogradsky Prospekt Cuisine: Cuban, $$

NYM yoga

Old Man Muller

4/5, Plotnikov Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, $

O2 Lounge

3, Tverskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: International, $$$

Oblaka

48 Kutuzovskiy pr. M. Slavyansky Bulvar Cuisine: European, $$$$

Oblomov

5, Monetchikovskyi 1-iy Pereulok M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $$$$

Octyabr

Multiple Cuisine: German, $$$

Old School Pub

15, Bol. Cherkasskiy M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Olimp

24 Luznetskaya Embankment M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Russian, $$

Oliva

3/5, Smolensky Boulevard M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Middle Eastern, $$

Olivetta

20 Malaya Dmitrovka Ul M. Pushkinskaya, $$$

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Japanese, European, $

Olivetta

Ogonek

Olympos

5/2, Potapovsky Pereulok M. Sretensky Bulvar Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

20 Mal. Dmitrovka St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$ 13 Akademika Korolyova St. M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, $$

Ogorod

Om Cafe

Old Batum

Onegin

30/2 Prospekt Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$ 7, Academika Bochvara St., bld.1 M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$

15/1 Novy Arbat Ul. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$ 12/2 Prechistenka St. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Orange CowТs House 18 Pavlovskaya St. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Oriental Tale

22 D Frunzenskaya Embankment M. Frunzenskaya Cuisine: Azeri, Russian, $

Osteria Da Cicco 3, Banniy Pereulok M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean, $$

Osteria della Piazza Bianca

5A, Lesnaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Osteria Montiroli

Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Osteria Montiroli

Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 60 M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Osteria nel Parco 9, Krymskiy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Osteria Numero Uno 2, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$

Ostozhye

40/1 Ostojenka ul. M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Otkrity Mir

18, Pavlovskaya M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Indian, $

Oсakbasi

10 str.2 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Turkish, East, $$

Old Berlin

25 Arbat St. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: German, $$ Don’t find your favourite bar/restaurant? Send us the details, we would be pleased to include them in our future issues. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru = Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Pacha

Paparazzi

Peshi

Pizza Hut

Pachito Bar

Paper Moon

Peshi

Pizzeria il Pomodoro

Palati Nu Cafe

Paradise

4 Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: East, European, Caucasus, $$$ 10, Nikolskaya street M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, $$ 11/13 str. 1 Kozjevnicheskaya St. M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Palazzo Ducale

3 Pyatnitskaya St. M. Novokuznetskaya Cuisine: European, American, $$ Build. 1, 17 Petrovka St. M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Italian, Vegetarian, $$$ 2a Nagornoe Shosse M. Planernaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Parisienne

3 Tverskoy Boulevard M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

31/9, Leningradsky Pr. M. Dinamo Cuisine: French, European, $$$$

Paluba

Pasta Mama

8 Berezhkovskaya nab. M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, Turkish, $$$

Pancho Villa

52, Bolshaya Yakimanka M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Mexican, $$

Pane & Olio Pizzeria 38 Bldg 1. Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Pane & Olio Trattoria 22, Timura Frunze M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Panorama

5 Smolenskaya St. (Hotel Golden Ring,2st floor) M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Papa JoeТs

Building 26, 1A Nikoloyamskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: American, Latin American, Mexican, $$

Papa JohnТs

Multiple Cuisine: American, $

Papa’s place

22, Myasnitskaya street M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, Italian, $$

12/9, Spiridonevsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$$

Pattaiya

14, Bol. Sukharevskaya Square M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Thai, Chineese , $$

Pavilion

Kutuzovskiy prospekt 10 M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, Italian, Fish, $$$$ 10 Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$

Petrovich

24/3, Myasnitskaya M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Russian, $$

Piccolino

17 Tsvetnoy Bulvar M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: American, Italian, $$$ 54 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$

Planet Sushi

Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

11 1st Kolobovsky Pereulok M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Plotnikov Pub

Pink Cadillac

Pochtmeyster

Pino-Pizza

Pokrovskie vorota

Pino-Pizza

Polo Club

4-6, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ulitsa M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: American, $$ 73 Volgogradsky Prospect M. Tekstilshchiki Cuisine: Italian, $$ 32 Perovsky St., bld. 1 M. Perovo Cuisine: Italian, $$

Plotinikov pereulok 22/16 M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$ 47/23, Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, German, $ 19 Pokrovka St. M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: Tibetan, $$$

11/12, Petrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

7 bld.1, Bolshoy Patriarshiy Pereulok M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

POLO CLUB

Pechki-Lavochki

“Polo Club, one of the best hotel restaurants in town serving quality steaks and seafood”

10 Nizhnyaya Radishchevskaya Street M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Peking Duck

24 Tverskaya St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Vegetarian, $$$

Peperoni

11/12, Petrovka M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

Pino-Pizza

23 Bolshaya Bronnaya St., bld. 1 M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Pinocchio

17, Petrovka M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

23 A Naberejnaya Trasa Shevhenko M. Mezhdunarodnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Pepper

Pizza Amore

9 1st Proezd Perovo Pole M. Perovo Cuisine: European, Italian, $

43 Leninsky Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Italian, $

Pizza Express

17 Tverskaya St. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Polyana

75 A Udalcova St. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Europe, East, $$

Pomest’e

Tamanskaya 46 M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: American, Caucasian, European, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Seafood, Spanish, Vegetarian, $$$

Ponton

Berezhkovskaya Nabereznaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Moscowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bars, Clubs, CafĂŠs and Restaurants Porter House

20 Arkhitektora Vlasova St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $$$

Porto Chervo

24, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Italian, $

Porto Maltese

3 Varvarka Ul. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$

Porto Maltese

Multiple Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$

Porto Maltese

21 Pravda St. M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

Porto Maltese

Pravda 21

21/1 Pravdy St. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Russian, European, $$

Prego Pizza & Pasta 6, Dolgorukovskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Presnya Cafe

7, Stolyarniy Pereulok M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Prichal

Ilyinskoe Shosse, 2km M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, Uzbek, Italian, $$$

Prime Star

11 Leninsky Prospect St. M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

77 bld.2, Sadovnicheskaya naberezhnaya (Aurora) M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, Russian,Mixed, $$

Porto Maltese

Prince

31 A Leningradsky Prospect St. M. Dinamo Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$$$

Porutshik Rzhevsky Build. 4, 4 Bolshoy Tolmachevsky Pereulok M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Fusion, Russian, Vegetarian, $$

Poslednyaya Kaplya 4 Strastnoi Bul., Bldg. 3 M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$

Post Scriptum

42b Miklukho-Maklaya St. M. Belyayevo Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Praga

2/1, Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Brazilian, European, International, Japanese, Russian, $$$$

16 Kashirskoe Shosse M. Kashirskaya Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Russian, $$$

Prospektbar

42 str.2a, Shepkina ul. M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$

Radio City Bar & Grill 5, Boshaya Sadovaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: International, $$

Ragout

16, bld.5, Olimpiisky Prospect M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: European, $$$

Ragout

69 BolshayaGruzinskaya ulitsa M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Rakhat Lukum

9 Bol. Dmitrovka M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Uzbek, $$$

Razguliay

Revolutsiya

Real Food Restaurant

Rialto

11 Spartakovskaya St. M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$ 12, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. (Crowne Plaza Moscow World Trade Centre) M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Red & White

15 Lesnaya St. (Hotel Holiday Inn) M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, $$$

Red Lion

12 Krasnopresnenskaya Embankment M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: British, $$

Red Point

7 Autumn Avenue( Osenny bulvar) M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: European, French, Japanese, Seafood, $$

Red Sails

66 Aviationnaya Street M. Shchukinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Red Square

1 Krasnaya ploschad M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Russian, $

Reka

6 bld.2, Bersenenskaya Nabereznaya M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Restaurant Moschoice

15 Kosygina St. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, $

Restaurant-vinoteca Dissident

25 Nikolskaya str, Nautilus Shopping Center, 5th floor M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$$

40, Novokuznetskaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: Home, $$$ 9/11 Bolshoy Fakelny Lane M. Marksistskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$

Ribny Bazaar

10/2, Tryokhprudny Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Seafood, European, $$$

Richard Lion Heart

29 Michurinsky Prospekt M. Universitet Cuisine: European, $$$

Rio-Grande

No.19 Zeleny Prospekt M. Perovo Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, Mexican, $

Rio-Rio

16 Krasnopresnenskaya Emb. M. Kutuzovskaya Cuisine: Brazilian, European, $$$$

River Side

10 Mantulinskaya St. M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: European, Chineese, Japaneese, International, $$$

Riverside cafe

29, Serebryanicheskaya Nabereznaya M. Kurskaya Cuisine: european, $$

Riviere

4, Bolshaya Dorogomilovskaya M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

Roberto

20 Rozhdestvenskii Bulvar M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

See any information that is not correct? These listings are for you, so to help us to help you please send us the corrections. editor@moscowexpatlife.ru We might even reward you! = Menu in English

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Roll Hole

Saigon

Romanov

Sakhili

3 Holodilnyy Per. M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, Vegetarian, $ 17/1 Neglinnaya ulitsa M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, Russian, European, $$

Roni

20/1, Petrovka M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Asian grill, $$$

Rosemary

26 Nikoloyamskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: French, International, Italian, $

Royal Family

15 Ul. Kosygina (Hotel Orlyonok) M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: Korean, $

Royale

21/1 Begovaya St. (in the Hippodrome building) M. Begovaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $

Ryba

4 Nashekinsky Per. M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Seafood, $

Rybatskaya Derevnya

39 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya ul. M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Vietnamese, $ 6 Bolshoi Karetny Per Bldg 1 M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Sakhli

6 bld.1, Bolshoi Karetny Pereulok M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Georgian, $$

Sandik

Shyolkovskoe shosse 68 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Uzbek, $$

Sanduny

14 str.4, Neglinnaya M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Chinese, Russian, Uzbek, $$

Saperavi

27, 1st TverskayaYamskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: Gerogian, $$$

1 Shcholkovskoe shosse M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $$

Seiji

Shatush

Seven Fridays

Shinok

5/2, Komsomolsky Prospect M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Japanese, $$$$ 6, Vorontsovskaya M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, French, $$$ 11 str.1 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Irland, $$

Shanti

Multiple Cuisine: European , $$

Shore House

Shantil

Shvarcvald

57, Bolshaya Gruzinskaya M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$$

Simple Pub

Smolenskaya Ploshad 6 M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, $$

SILVERS IRISH PUB 5/6, Nikitsky Pereulok M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: Pub food, $$

“Traditional Irish hospitality with great pub food and excellent beers”

SCANDINAVIA 7 Maliy Palanshevskiy Per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, Skandinavian, $$

“Comfortable, calm restaurant with high quality cuisine offering many Scandinavian specialities”

Sharabara

29/3 Lomonosovskiy pr. M. Prospekt Vernadskogo Cuisine: Eastern, European, $$

Would you like to have your restaurant/bar featured in one of our future issues? Please contact us for details editor@moscowexpatlife.ru

Shokoladnica

Crocus City (66 km MKAD) M. Myakinino Cuisine: European, Japanese, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, $$$

Ural’skaya 5 M. Shcholkovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

34 bld.1, Petrovka M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Pub Food, $$$

17, Gogolevsky Boulevard M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Chinese, European, Japanese, Tai, $$$$

2/1 Myasnitsky Proyesd M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: Vietnamese, $$$

Sayani

Scotland Yard

2, Ryazansky Pereulok M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, $

2, 1905 Goda M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$$

Shamrock bar

Savoy Hotel, 3 Rozhdestvenka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Rytsarsky Club

Sahara

Shashlichnaya #1

4 str.1 Kaloshin per. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $

Savoy

All-Russia Exhibition Center, Selskohozyaistvennaya St. M. Botanichesky Sad Cuisine: Georgian, Russian, $$$ 28 Kosygina M. Vorobyovy Gory Cuisine: European, $$$$

Secret place

Sindbad

14, Nikitsky Boulevard M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Lebanese, Middle Eastern, $$

Sirena

15, Bolshaya Spasskaya M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: Seafood, $$$$

Sisters Grimm

11, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Author, European, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Sixties diners

16/2 str.2 Noviy Arbat St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, American, $

Skazka

56 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Novye Cheryomushki Cuisine: European, $

Sky Lounge

32а Leninskii Prospekt M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

Stariki

13 str.2, Bol.Lubyanka M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: European, $$

Starlite Diner

6, Vernadskogo Pr M. Universitet Cuisine: American, $$

Starlite Diner

T-Bone

Pyatnitskaya Ul. 52, bldg. 2 M. Polyanka Cuisine: International, $$

T.G.I. Friday’s

Multiple location Cuisine: American, $$

9a, Korovy Val M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: American, $$

8a, Strasnow Bulevard M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: American, $$

32a Leninskiy Pr. M. Leninsky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Moscow’s original diners still serving our favourite food

Small Pub

6 Mira Prospect M. Sukharevskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$

Smotra Bar & Restaurant

66 Leningradskiy pr. M. Aeroport Cuisine: European, Japanese, $

SOHO Rooms

12/8 Bolshoi Savvinsky Nab. M. Sportivnaya Cuisine: International, $$$$

Soup Cafe

62/25 1st Brestskaya, bldg.3 M. Belorusskaya Cuisine: European, $$

SQUARE

60 str.1 Brestkaya 1st St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, English, $

Stakan

3/3, Teatralniy pr. M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$

Staraya Usadba

29a, Metallurgov ul. M. Perovo Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Starbucks

Multiple location Cuisine: american, $ = Menu in English

4/3 bld.3, Strasnoy Boulevard M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: Spanish , $$

Taras Bulba

Multiple Cuisine: Ukrainian, $$

Tatler club

2/1, Kutuzovsky Prospekt M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$$

STARLITE DINER

Sky Lounge

Tapa’rillas Tapas Bar

Tavern Admiral Benbau

Building A, 52 Sudostroitelnaya St. M. Kolomenskaya Cuisine: Fusion, $$

Tel Aviv Starlite Diner

16/5, Bolotnaya Square M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Starlite Diner

16 Bolshaya Sadova M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: American, $$

Steyks

21 Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya St. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Suliko

42/2 Bol. Polyanka M. Polyanka Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Super Mario

41 Gastello St. M. Sokolniki Cuisine: Armenian, Azeri, European, Georgian, $$

Superbeach

1, Stroginskoe shosse M. Strogino Cuisine: European, $$

Sushi-Bar Kiot Krymsky val, 10 M. Oktyabrskaya Cuisine: Chinese, Japanese, $$

Sweet Home Cafe

14/2 str.1, Myasnitskaya M. Lubyanka Cuisine: European, $$

Taisky Slon

25 Khoroshevskoye Shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Thai, $$$

Takasa

2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$$

Take

No.20, 60-Letia Octyabrya Prospekt M. Akademicheskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Talavera

2 Europe squar (RadIsson Slavyanskaya Hotel) M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Taliesin

26 Valovaya M. Paveletskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

Tancy

11, Nicolskaya M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Italian, $$

Tanuki

Multiple Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Tapa De Comida 20/2 Trubnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Spanish, $$$$

30/1, Tsvetnoy Boulevard M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Israeli, $$$

Temple Bar

Multiple M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, $$

Tequila Bar & Boom 4, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Mexican, $

Terrace

13 Uglichskaja St. M. Altufyevo Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Terrace

The Cosmos Hotel, 150 Prospekt Mira M. VDNKh Cuisine: European, $$

Thai Elephant

25 bld,1, Horoshevskoe shosse M. Polezhayevskaya Cuisine: Eastern, European.Thai, $$$

The Real McCoy

1, Kudrinskaya Square M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Tex mex, European, $$

Tiflis

32 bld.2, Ostozhenka M. Park Kultury Cuisine: Georgian, $$$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Time Out Bar

5, Sadovaya ulitsa Hotel pekin M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Timeterria LiPeople 4, 2nd Shemilovsky pereulok M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Pizzeria, $

Tinkoff

11, Protochny Pereulok M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, German, $$$

Tommy D Gastro Bar 1, Tretyakovsky Proyezd M. Lubyanka Cuisine: International, $$$

Tonino Lamborghini Boutique Caffe 19 bld.1, Kuznetsky Most M. Kuznetsky Most Cuisine: Author’s, Home, European, Italian, $$$

Trubadur

2/1 bld.1, Kutuzovsky prospect M. Kiyevskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Truffaldino

20 Marksistskaya Ul., bldg 1 M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Italian, Seafood, $$

Tsarskaya Okhota

40 Dolgorukovskaya St. M. Mendeleyevskaya Cuisine: European, Medeterrian, $$

186a Zhukovka, RublyovoUspenskoye Shosse, 9 kilometers from MKAD M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Russian, $$$$

Tsifry

6 Vorontsovskaya Ul. M. Taganskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$

40 bld.2, Pokrovka M. Kurskaya Cuisine: European, Mediterranean, $$$

Trattoria Venezia

Tsimmis

3, Novoslobodskaya M. Novoslobodskaya Cuisine: Jewish, $$$

Tunnel

4/3 bld.3, Strastnoi Bulevard M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

7 Lubyansky Proezd M. Lubyanka Cuisine: American, European, International, Japanese, $

Trattoria Venezia

Tutto Bene

17, Shabolovka M. Shabolovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

Tri kabana

34 kor.2 Ryazanskiy pr. M. Ryazansky Prospekt Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

26/5, Tverskoy bulvar M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, Chinese, Japanese, $$$$

TsarТs Hunt

Some of the best steaks in Moscow. Great service, great drinks and great prices

Trattoria Venezia

Tyrandot

U Shveika

Multiple Cuisine: European, $$$

9 bld.3, Stoleshnikov Pereulok M. Chekhovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$

19a Akademika Koroleva St. M. VDNKh Cuisine: Russian, Japanese, Philipino, $$$

186a, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse M. Krylatskoye Cuisine: Russian, Hunting, $$$

TORRO GRILL

Traktir Chyornaya Koshka

Twin Pigs

8, Presnenskaya nab., bld.1 M. Vystavochnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Tverbul

24 Tverskoy bul. M. Tverskaya Cuisine: European, $$$$

2, Barrikadnaya M. Barrikadnaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, Czech, European, $$

Ub cafe

Ugra

5/14 Porechnaya St. M. Maryino Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Uilliam’s

20 Mal. Bronnaya M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Un Sun

9, Achsheulov Pereulok M. Turgenevskaya Cuisine: European, Korean, $

Unicum

10 2nd TverskayaYamskaya St. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: French, $$$

Usadba in Archangelskoe

Arсhangelskoe Settlement M. Tushinskaya Cuisine: Russian, $$$

Uzbehka

23/10 Petrovka St. M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: Mediterranean, $$

Uzbekistan

29/14 Neglinnaya Ul. M. Trubnaya Cuisine: Arabic, Azeri, Chinese, Uzbek, $$$

Vanil

1, Ostozhenka M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Russian, French, Japanese, $$$

Vanilla Sky

Build.3, 11-13 Nikolskaya St. M. Okhotny Ryad Cuisine: European, Russian, $$

Vapiano

26 bld.1, Prospect Mira M. Prospekt Mira Cuisine: Italian, $$

Vapiano

26/1 Prospekt mira M. Yugo-Zapadnaya Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Venice

16 Spartakovskaja Square M. Baumanskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Mixed, $$$

Veranda u Dachi

70, Zhukovka village, Rublevo-Uspenskoye shosse Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$

Vesna

19, Novy Arbat M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: Author’s, Italian, Mediterranean, Japanese, $$$

Veterok

24, Gorki-2 village, RublevoUspenskoye shosse Cuisine: Home cooking from Arkady Novikov, $$$

Vinil

13 str.2 SadovayaSpasskaya St. M. Krasnye Vorota Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese, $$$

Vinosyr

6, Maly Palashevsky Pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Vinyl

4 Pevcheskiy Per. M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: European, $$

Moscow’s Bars, Clubs, Cafés and Restaurants Vision Cocktail Hall

William Bass

Viskonti

Wok Express

11 Noviy Arbat St., bld. 1 M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Japaneese, $$$ 28a Shipilovskaya St. M. Domodedovskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Vivace

7 SadovayaSamotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Vizavi

6 Serpukhovskoy Val M. Tulskaya Cuisine: European, $$

Vodny

39 bld.6, Leningradskoye Shosse M. Vodny Stadion Cuisine: Italian, Uzbek, Japanese, $$$

Vogue Cafe

7/9, Kuznetsky Most M. Teatralnaya Cuisine: European, $$$

White Cafe

9 Malaya Yakimanka St. M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: European, $$$ 26 Bolshaya Nikitskaya St. M. Arbatskaya Cuisine: European, Asian, $$

Wolkonsky

26, Valovaya M. Dobryninskaya Cuisine: European, French, $

X.O.

25 str.1 Rusanova pr. M. Sviblovo Cuisine: European, Caucasian, $

Yan Pen

3/7, Pokrovka M. Kitay-gorod Cuisine: Korean, $$$

Yapona Mama

4 Smolensky Bulvar. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

Yar

36/9, Novy Arbat M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

32/2, Leningradsky Prospect M. Dinamo Cuisine: French, Russian, $$$$

White clouds

Yasniy Perec

4, Pokrovka M. Chistye Prudy Cuisine: European, Asian, Vegetarian, Mexican, $

White Rabbit

3 Smolenskaya Pl. M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: European, Italian, Russian, $$$

White Rabbit

6 bld.3, Smolenskaya Square M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Russian, Haute couture, $$$$

Who is Who (Karaoke)

15a Oruzjeyniy per. M. Mayakovskaya Cuisine: European, Japanese, $$$

= Menu in English

51/23 Pervomaysky St. M. Pervomaiskaya Cuisine: Russian, International, $$

Yasumi

61a Profsoyaznaya ul. M. Kaluzhskaya Cuisine: Japanese, $$

YogaDOM

1/30, Petrovsky pereulok M. Pushkinskaya Cuisine: asian, indian, vegetarian, $

Yoko

5, Soimonovskiy prospekt M. Kropotkinskaya Cuisine: Japanese, author’s, $$$$

Yujung

12, Krasnopresnenskaya Nabereznaya M. Ulitsa 1905 Goda Cuisine: Asian, Japanese, Korean, $$

Z-Lounge

3 SadovayaSamotechnaya St. M. Tsvetnoy Bulvar Cuisine: Italian, $$$

Zafferano

8/10, Novinsky Bulevard M. Smolenskaya Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$$

Zafferano

Vegas Mall, 25th km MKAD Cuisine: Azeri, European, Japanese, $$

Zolotaya Vobla

9 Sushchevsky Val Ul. M. Savyolovskaya Cuisine: Beer Restaurants, $$

Zolotoi Drakon

15a Kalanchevskaya M. Komsomolskaya Cuisine: Chinese, $$

Zolotoi Kupol

10/2, 10-Gorky township, Rublyovo-Uspenskoye Shosse M. Molodyozhnaya Cuisine: European, Russian, Caucasian, $$$

Zolotoy Dar

154 Profsoyuznaya St. M. Tyoply Stan Cuisine: European, Russian, $$$

Zucker

12/2, Bolshoy Kozikhinsky Pereulok M. Tverskaya Cuisine: Moroccan, Lebanese, Syrian, Persian, Bukharan, $$$

Yolki Palki

Multiple M. Tretyakovskaya Cuisine: Russian, $

Essential Information

Emergency Phone Numbers Fire fighters Police Ambulance

01 02 03

Emergency Gas Service 04 Intercity phone calls 07 Information 09

Time (automatic clock) 100 Emergency rescue service 937-9911

Medical help The international crisis line is a free English-speaking telephone counseling service for expatriates people in distress. Available 08:00-23:00 daily. (The Moscow Clinic, 24 hour service to its clients) In case you ever have to call the fire fighters, the police, or an ambulance, make sure that all family members can +7 495 937 6477 correctly pronounce your complete address in Russian. Post a piece of paper with your full address details and phone numbers in Russian and translation into your (24 hours service) native language on the wall next to your phone. +7 495 933 7700 Also make sure that your children know how to reach you or another adult you trust in case they get lost or have an emergency. (French, British and American experts) Note that in Russia there is difference between the police 7 495 510 54 14 (militsiya) and the traffic police (GIBDD, formerly GAI). The police are not responsible for regulating traffic or handling car accidents, and the traffic police do not 8 926 1133373 handle criminal offences that are unrelated to traffic.

International SOS

American Medical Centers European Medical Center

International crisis Line Tel:

Pharmacies (Apteki) Finding a pharmacy in Moscow is definitely not a problem. In fact, quite a number of them are open 24/7. The prices vary from one pharmacy to another, but the difference is not very significant.

What to do if you lose your passport Your first step should be to contact the nearest consular department of your country of origin. You will also have to go to a police station in order to obtain an official form confirming the loss or theft of your travel documents. We recommend, however, that you contact your embassy or consulate first, as they may be able to help non-Russian speakers with the necessary paperwork. In the case of a childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lost passport, both parents must appear with the child. Once you have a new passport, take it, along with your plane ticket (if you do not have a return ticket, you will have to buy one before you are issued a new visa) and the police form to the company that issued your visa support documents. If you have a copy

of your lost visa, you should also provide it. If the agency refuses to help you (although it is their legal obligation to do so), then your consulate should tell you what to do.

Important: For ease of processing we recommend that the police report states that your documents were lost, not stolen.

Essential Information

Taxi Services in Moscow In Moscow any car is a taxi, and you will quickly notice how Muscovites get around by simply sticking out a hand and jumping into the first car that stops. If your Russian is up to the negotiations, you can try this for yourself, although you should be extremely careful about choosing who you ride with. Therefore, at first, we recommend you use only professional taxi services, especially if you are going to make a trip along the city at night-time. Official taxis are more expensive, but still cheap by European standards unless, of course, you’re being ripped-off. The market is increasingly competitive, and a number of well-established firms now run large fleets of cars with regulated

fares. Official taxis come in a variety of guises, but normally have some yellow markings and a yellow roof-light. Taximeters are not used in all cars, often the sum is defined at the order. Pre-booked transfers are the most comfortable and convenient way of getting from the airport to your final destination, and they don’t have to be expensive. More and more companies are offering discount transfer services in Moscow. So, if you don’t want the hassle of dealing with crowded public transport after a long flight, book a car and driver to meet you at the airport and take you directly to your hotel. Your hotel will be able to give you the numbers of English-speaking taxi companies.

Getting to Moscow’s Airports Moscow is served by three major airports: Vnukovo, Domodedovo and Sheremetyevo. You can get a taxi (fares range between 1200 and 2300 roubles, and generally, the service is good. The operators speak English, but the drivers may not. A taxi back can also be booked, and this saves a lot of hassle and possible agro when dealing with the taxi drivers at arrivals. All three airports are now served by aeroexpress shuttle trains. The service is good but not 24 hours a day. The three airports are: Sheremetyevo Airport http://www.svo.aero/en/ +7 495 578 6565 + 8 800 100 6565 +7 495 956 4666 for flight information Sheremetyevo has become much more accessible thanks to the opening of the Aeroexpress from Byelorusskaya Station. The Aeroexpress costs 320 roubles and they leave every half an from 5:30 to 00:30. Long term parking costs 250 roubles a day according to the airport web site. If you are getting a taxi or driving your own car there during the day it is advisable to leave a minimum of two hours to get there from the centre.

Domodedovo Airport http://www.domodedovo.ru +7 495 720 6666 for flight information Getting there: The Aeroexpress train departs from the left hand side of Paveltskaya station. Tickets which come as flimsy paper receipts with bar codes in them. Don’t lose your ticket as you need it to get out of the station at the airport. Tickets cost from 320 roubles. The journey takes 40-50 minutes, and they run reliably and regularly, every half an hour from 6am to midnight. On the way home, this is a convenient way to beat the taxi mobs, however there is only the taxi if you arrive during the night. Leaving your car in the long-stay car park costs 600-700 roubles a day depending on the season, although information on the airport’s site is not clear on this score. Vnukova Airport http://www.vnukovo.ru/eng/ 8 (495) 937-55-55 Getting there: 1. By airport bus from Yugo Zapadnaya Metro. You need bus 611, 611с or 611ф, (611f ) (express) bus. You need to listen carefully to the pre-recorded stop announcements. Your stop

is Airport Vnukovo. Busses run every 10 minutes or so, so to be sure you get there on time and the journey to the airport takes about 30 minutes. You can also get a ‘marshrutka’, (mini-van taxi service) route 45 which will take you to the airport faster. Fare is 100 roubles plus 10 roubles for each piece of extra luggage. 2. From Metro Oktyabrskaya (the Circle Line) (subway) Route 705m ‘marshrutka’ runs between Metro Oktyabrskaya (Circle Line) and the Vnukovo airport. They take 35-40 minutes, although Moscow traffic is Moscow traffic, so at peak time leave at least an hour. Fare is 130 roubles plus another 10 roubles for every extra item of baggage. 3. By Aeroexpress Train From Metro Kievskaya (Metro) (exit to Kievsky Train Station). Once out on the Train Station forecourt, go round the corner of the Station terminal building and a few yards down on your left-hand side you will see the entrance portico of the Vnukovo Aeroexpress Terminal. Tickets cost 320 roubles for standard fare, and can be bought on line, if you read Russian. The journey takes 40 minutes.

Essential Information

Taxi companies with operators who understand English Bee Car

Moscow Taxi

Taxi 956

Gorodskoe Taxi

Eurasia Taxi

Vip Taxi Moscow

NewMoscowTaxi

Formula Taxi

+7 495 979 4810 www.bee-car.ru +7 495 956 8956 www.taxi956.ru +7 495 647 1111 www.eurasiataxi.ru +7 495 780 6780 www.newmoscowtaxi.ru

+7 499 995 0654 www.taxi-in-moscow.com +7 495 500 0500 www.500-0-500.ru +7 495 991 6173 www.taxi749.ru

+7 495 777 5777 www.formula-taxi.ru

New Moscow Taxi Slujba 918 +7 495 780 6780 www.newmoscowtaxi.ru

+7 495 918 0101 www.taxi918.ru