TASTE&FLAIR MAY2019 by TASTE&FLAIR MAGAZINE

ISSUE 118 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

MAY 2019

Feed your imagination Food, drink, art and design from around the world

122, Valley Road, B'Kara satariano.com

With graphic elements, TETRIM brings clarity to the bedroom. The designer bed is integrated between lacquered or wooden cubes: classical on legs or with a central arched support underneath the lying surface, with adjustable headboards or a bolster to comfortably lean onto. The characteristic L-shaped TETRIM compartment, equipped with lighting, provides a subtle light â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as a shelving unit, sideboard, highboard or highlight in the wardrobe. Together with console, mirror and illuminated shadow gap, it makes a timeless dressing table. Glass cabinets and wall-mounted units round off the range. www.joinwell.com.mt +356 2278 2000

info@joinwell.com.mt Mill Street Qormi QRM 3102

M&S FOOD

OUR UNIQUE BLEND, ROASTED IN SMALL BATCHES AND HANDCRAFTED BY EXPERTS

x1125.indd 1

NEW FOOD STORES NAXXAR -

ST.PAULâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S STR.

| HAMRUN -

DANIELS MALL

ISSUE 118 distributed with the malta independent on sunday

MAY 2019

Editorial T

his has turned into something of a travel issue, with ideas and sights which you can enjoy in the comfort of your own home. Michael Diacono takes us around the world in eight recipes, picking a signature dish from each of the themed evenings he and his team served over the winter months at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro - food from Lebanon, Australia, France, Italy, Sicily, Spain, Portugal, and the United States. Claire Borg went East to China, trawling the food markets and bringing back reams of photographs and her own original take on traditional Chinese foods. You can enjoy the dreamy atmosphere of her feature about the delicate tea from Longjing plantations outside Hangzhou, even if your idea of tea means thick black liquid served in a mug with milk and plenty of sugar. From India, we bring you Pushpesh Pant’s vegetarian food. In this issue, our design section takes you to Brazil and Mexico, where an awkwardly long site squeezed between two other buildings has been transformed into a spacious family home ingeniously set with mirrors and one-way glass to act like a kaleidoscope as the light changes throughout the day and night. In São Paulo, the stark, stripped bare interior of a flat in Edifício Copan, defined by its angularity and straight lines, is offset by the sinuous exterior of Niemeyer’s iconic building, one of the largest in Brazil. We are often asked why we feature architecture and design in other places. The answer is simple. Good design can provide inspiration, wherever it comes from. Just as we do with food, we can pick and choose elements of design and style and make them completely our own. Pour yourself a drink, put your feet up, and enjoy this issue of Taste&Flair. We’ll be back on 2nd June.

Feed your imagination Food, drink, art and design from around the world

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com PUBLISHER

The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation c/o 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta EDITORIAL BOARD

Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Corinne Vella

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Megan Mallia Amy Mallia

ART DIRECTOR

Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net ADVERTISING MANAGER & EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTOR

Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt ADVERTISING ASSISTANT

Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt PRODUCTION MANAGER

André Camilleri

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT

Conrad Bondin

PREPRESS & PRINTING

Print It

Jan Van de Meulen

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Michael Diacono’s Pavlova. See feature starting on page 16. Photo by Brian Grech.

T&F EDITORIAL

CELEBRATE MOTHER’S DAY WITH L’ALLÉE BY PIPPA TOLEDO

Love Pippa and Ninnia 14A TOWER ROAD, SLIEMA T 2133 8521 W WWW.LALLEE.CO E LALLEE@PIPPATOLEDO.COM

Opening soon at the Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Golden Sands +356 23561111 fb.goldensands@rdbmalta.com

T&F CONTENTS

FOOD & DRINK

Around the world in 8 dishes Michael Diacono’s food tour

China Claire Borg goes east

Vegetarian feast Pushpesh Pant’s hearty Indian meals

117

Casa Kaleidos

Maximilism Sig Bergamim’s exuberant interiors

Soralla: Spanish Master of Light

101

Home of the green dragon Claire Borg visits a tea plantation

128

77 90

ART & DESIGN

CONTENTS

50:50 cocktail Pour yourself a drink

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Back to Basics Edifício Coban, stripped down

T&F MEAT

MOUTHWATERING

ROAST LAMB A perfect dish for a weekend lunch with friends. Calculate that the lamb will need about 4 hours cooking in all (which includes time for the meat to rest before serving).

SERVES

INGREDIENTS

1.5 kg lamb shoulder (on the bone) 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 glass of white wine 2 medium-sized onions 2 cloves of garlic salt and pepper a sprig of rosemary

1. Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Mix the

extra-virgin olive oil, white wine and rosemary together in a bowl. Chop the garlic cloves in half and arrange on an oven tray together with the chopped onion. Add the lamb shoulder and drizzle the olive oil, white wine and rosemary mixture on top. 2. Roast for about 3 hours at

160ºC and then for about 30 minutes at 220ºC to crisp. 3. Leave to rest for at least 20

minutes before serving.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

History Indigenous vineyards

DOCG

Attard & Co. Food Ltd - Tel: 21 237555 facebook.com/attardcowines

Modern innovations

PROMOTION T&F

Café Phoenicia More than just a Café! If you enjoy lingering over brunch, lunch or dinner, sharing tasty treats and sipping on good wine, then chic, cosmopolitan and casual Café Phoenicia is the place for you. Trendy Café Phoenicia, located in The Phoenicia facing the beautifully restored Triton Fountain, is the perfect place for a delicious snack, a light lunch or a smooth evening meal, amid Valletta’s bustling entrance.

afé Phoenicia offers a slice of the Mediterranean both from its menu and its surroundings. The place is airy thanks to its huge windows and lightcoloured walls, and when the sun makes an appearance, diners can spill out onto the elegant terrace set with tables overlooking Valletta and watch the world go by while sipping on a refreshing cocktail. Café Phoenicia’s kitchen brigade, headed by Executive Chef Daniel Debattista, have carefully crafted a menu that will be loved by all. Choose from its wide and varied menu of prime beef burgers, fresh salads, crunchy pizzas, fresh pasta and tasty cakes as well as their fine selection of wines and beers. Ingredients are strictly sourced from Maltese farms and producers to add to the appeal. Café Phoenicia has it all. The chic, cosmopolitan and casual Café Phoenicia offers exquisite dining in a relaxed atmosphere, a local favourite designed to be enjoyed with family and friends. Café Phoenicia eagerly awaits your visit.

Open daily 11.00hrs – 22.30hrs. The Phoenicia Malta. Tel: 2122 5241 • dine@phoeniciamalta.com • www.phoeniciamalta.com

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INTERNATIONAL

AROUND T

WORLD k 8 DISHES

One of the enjoyable aspects of travel is the chance to sample new flavours and ways of combining tastes. Enjoy the taste of travel with food by Michael Diacono, chef patron of Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro. Styling and photography: Brian Grech Food taster: George Diacono

For this edition of Taste&Flair I have taken one dish from each country ‘visited’ during our wine pairing events held at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro over the winter months.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

INTERNATIONAL T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INTERNATIONAL

Buñuelos de Bacalao

SERVES 6

500g salt cod, soaked for 48 hrs 2 fresh bay leaves 450g white potatoes, peeled and cut into large cubes 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 eggs, lightly beaten 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped Peel of 1 lemon, finely chopped 1 handful of parsley, chopped breadcrumbs • salt and pepper

1. Drain the cod from the soaking

water, transfer to a large pot and cover with fresh water. 2. Add the bay leaves and bring to

the boil. Cook for 5 minutes, then turn the heat off, cover the pot and leave it to stand for 10 minutes. 3. Lift the fish out of the pot onto a large plate.

Add the potatoes to the same water used for the fish and boil them till tender. Drain. 4. Remove the skin from the fish and

flake, taking care to discard any bones. 5. Mash the potatoes in a large bowl. Add

the extra virgin olive oil, eggs, garlic, lemon peel and chopped parsley. Mix well then add in the flaked fish. Season to taste. 6. Form into small rounds and place

onto a baking sheet. Put the baking sheet into the freezer for 25 minutes for the mixture to firm up. 7. You will now need seasoned flour, beaten

eggs and panko crumbs to coat the fish cakes. 8. Roll in the flour first, then in the eggs

and finally coat with the breadcrumbs. 9. Shallow fry in hot oil for a few minutes

on each side till golden brown then finish off in a hot oven for 5 minutes. I served these with peeled chopped fresh tomatoes, salad leaves and lemon wedges.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

SPAIN

Tasty fritters made with salt cod go down a treat with a glass of very well chilled Albariño, and can be eaten hot or cold

INTERNATIONAL T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INTERNATIONAL

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

INTERNATIONAL T&F

LEBANON

Quail “Meshwi” SERVES 6

A fragrant and sweet dish to grace any table on a balmy summer evening It is ideal to grill on the Bar-b-q. SERVES 4

8 boneless quail 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons za’atar (Lebanese spice mix generally made with thyme, sesame and sumac) 6 tablespoons pomegranate molasses ½ tablespoon coriander seeds 1 tablespoon cumin seeds Salt and pepper

1. Mix all the marinade ingredients

together in a large dish. Add the quail and massage gently to coat evenly. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for at least 6 hours. 2. Heat up your grill. When it is hot,

grill the quail for 4 minutes on each side, basting with the marinade. The meat should be served pink. 3. I served these dusted with

more za’atar and fresh coriander on a bed of lentil rice and a dollop of lebneh (thick yogurt) scented with a touch of lemon.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INTERNATIONAL

FRANCE

Vol-au-Vent At home, vol-au-vent made a regular appearance with a variety of fillings. My favourites were always those my mother prepared with lamb brain. These are filled with seabass

1. Heat oven to 200°C 2. Cut the pastry into 12 circles of 10cm

diameter. Use a cutter of 9cm to cut out the centre of 6 of them. Keep the rims. 3. Place the 6 large circles onto a baking

tray lined with baking paper. Brush the pastry with egg then top with the other 6 circular rims. Glaze all over with egg wash and bake for between 12 to 15 minutes till risen and golden. 4. Melt the 15g of butter then whisk

SERVES 6

300g ready rolled puff pastry 1 egg • 15g butter 15g plain flour • 300ml cream 50ml sparkling wine (I used a Crémant) 1 small bunch fresh chives • salt 500g sea bass fillets cut into big dice 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 10g butter

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

in the flour, cream and wine. Season to taste and cook till thickened. Finally, stir in the chopped chives. 5. In another pan, heat the extra

virgin olive oil and butter together. Add the fish, and season. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes only, then add the fish to the prepared sauce and use the mixture to fill the still warm pastry cases. Serve at once. I served the Vol-au Vent with buttered ‘mange tout’.

Corporate Summer Events at Urban Valley Resort Featured

Featured

Rum, Gin & Tapas

Cuban Night

Noche Española

12-ITEM TAPAS MENU

BBQ MENU

SPANISH PAELLA

THREE HOURS OPEN BAR on house brand spirits,wines,beer and soft drinks,featuring two rum cocktails and two gin cocktails

THREE HOURS OPEN BAR on house brand spirits,wines,beer and soft drinks,featuring three rum cocktails

THREE HOURS OPEN BAR on house brand spirits,wines,beer and soft drinks,featuring three gin cocktails

COMPLEMENTARY VENUE FREE PARKING AND WI-FI €28.00 per person

COMPLEMENTARY VENUE FREE PARKING AND WI-FI €30.00 per person

COMPLEMENTARY VENUE FREE PARKING AND WI-FI €28.00 per person

Packages above are available for a minimum of 20 paying adults. Should the number of attendees is less than 20, a venue fee will be applicable. Build your own menu options are also available.

Urban Valley Resort & Spa

Triq Wied Ghollieqa, Kappara SGN 4437, Malta. T: +356 2138 5926 E: events@urbanvalleyresort.com www.urbanvalleyresort.com

T&F INTERNATIONAL

Involtini di Vitello con vongole Everything that says summer is on this plate.

ITALY

SERVES 4

500g veal rump slices 150g fresh rucola 100g coarsely grated Pecorino cheese salt and pepper • breadcrumbs 40g grated Parmesan extra virgin olive oil FOR THE CLAMS

Extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic • 4 anchovy fillets 400g fresh clams 12 cherry tomatoes, halved 125ml dry white wine 1 handful of parsley, finely chopped a few basil leaves, torn

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

1. Prepare the involtini by flattening the

4. In another pot heat some more

veal slices using a rolling pin. Season lightly, top with rucola and Pecorino, then roll up each veal slice very tightly and secure it with toothpicks.

extra virgin olive and sauté the garlic and anchovies together till the fish disintegrates.

2. Mix some breadcrumbs with the

grated Parmesan. Roll the involtini in the breadcrumb mixture then leave it in the fridge for 30 minutes. 3. Heat some extra virgin olive oil in a

large pan. Fry the involtini for about 10 minutes, turning them often till browned all over. Then, remove them to a serving plate and keep them warm.

5. Add the cherry tomatoes and

cook for a couple of minutes before adding the cleaned clams. Stir, then douse with the white wine. Add the chopped parsley, cover the pan and cook for about 5 minutes on high heat till the clam shells open. 6. Add the torn basil leaves and

serve the clams together with the juices over the involtini.

Genuine.Fresh.Local. Benna Fresh Irkotta made from 100% Fresh Maltese Milk. Recipe available at: www.benna.com.mt/irkotta_recipes

T&F INTERNATIONAL

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

INTERNATIONAL T&F

U.S.A.

Mac and Cheese Balls These little bites are quite irresistible. Crunchy on the outside and full of cheesy goodness inside. Yum. MAKES APPROXIMATELY 25 BALLS

500g ditali pasta 2 tablespoons butter 2 teaspoons flour • 400ml milk 250g shredded mature cheddar 250g shredded Red Leicester cheese salt and pepper • flour to coat 2 eggs • bread crumbs

1. Boil the pasta in salted water till

very al dente. Drain and cool at once under running water. Keep aside. 2. Melt the butter in a pot. Whisk

in the flour and then pour it in the milk, stirring all the time. Add the cheeses and season. 3. Cook the mixture till thickened

and then pour over the cooled pasta. Stir the mixture well to coat the pasta, allow it to cool, then cover the bowl and place it in the fridge till cold. 4. Using damp hands, form little

balls with the pasta, then roll them in flour, followed by egg and finally bread crumbs. 5. Fry the coated pasta balls

in oil for about 8 minutes till golden or bake at 190°C on a greased tray for 15 minutes.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

SICILY

T&F INTERNATIONAL

Mille Foglie al Cannolo This is a take on the traditional Cannolo - fried sweet pastry layered with sweetened whipped ricotta cheese. This should be enough for approximately 15 portions.

PASTRY

250g strong plain flour, sifted 40g sugar • 15g cocoa powder, sifted ¼ teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon vinegar ½ teaspoon cinnamon powder 40g softened butter, cubed ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 50g eggs • 90ml dry white wine FILLING

500g soft ricotta • 120g sugar Finely chopped peel of ½ an orange

1. Place the flour, sugar, cocoa, salt and

cinnamon into the bowl of your electric mixer. Attach the paddle. Add the cubed, softened butter and mix in gently. 2. Add the vanilla and vinegar to

the eggs and beat slightly with a fork before adding to the flour.

3. With the mixer on, slowly pour in the

wine and mix till a soft pastry is formed. Remove the dough from the bowl, place it on a floured surface and knead for a few minutes. Then, wrap it up in cling film and leave it to rest in the fridge for at least 1 day. 4. Roll out the pastry as thinly as possible

and then cut out irregular shapes. I use a pasta machine on the thinnest setting. 5. Heat oil in a deep fat fryer to 175°C

and fry the pastry for 4 to 5 minutes till crisp. The pastry should puff up slightly. Transfer to absorbent paper-lined baking trays to cool. 6. Meanwhile, place the ricotta and sugar

into a mixing bowl and whip them together till creamy. Fold in the orange peel. Transfer the mixture to a forcing bag. 7. To serve, pipe ricotta onto the fried

wafers and stack them in layers. You may top with some toasted pine nuts or pistachios or chocolate flakes. I decorated these with strips of candied orange peel.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INTERNATIONAL

Pavlova

Makes 8 portions MERINGUE

8 egg whites • 1 pinch salt • 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 5g cornflour • 400g caster sugar • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract FILLING

500ml fresh cream • 60g sugar • 1 vanilla pod 2 punnets strawberries • 4 kiwi fruit 2 passion fruit • 100ml mango purée

1. Heat oven to 100°C/gas mark ¼ and line

two baking sheets with non-stick paper. 2. Place the egg whites into a very clean bowl and

start to whisk. Add the salt and continue whisking the egg whites till they form soft peaks. 3. Next, add the vinegar and slowly sift in the

cornflour. Continue whisking while slowly adding the sugar and finally the vanilla extract. Whip the mixture till stiff. You should be able to invert the mixing bowl without anything falling out. 4. Using two tablespoons, scoop the mixture

into 8 evenly spaced round shapes on the baking sheets. Place the baking trays in the oven and cook for 2 ½ hours till dry. Do not open the oven door in the meantime. Transfer the dried meringues to a wire rack to cool down. 5. Place the cream into a mixing bowl and, while

whisking, gradually add in the sugar. Split the vanilla pod lengthways, scrape out the seeds and add them to the cream. Continue whipping the cream until it’s stiff. 6. Fill the pavlova shapes with cream then top

with hulled strawberries and kiwi wedges. 7. Scoop out the passion fruit into the mango

purée and spoon around the filled pavlovas. 8. To serve, dredge with icing sugar

and garnish with fresh mint

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

AUSTRALIA

Light and delicious, crisp on the outside but gooey in the middle, this is the perfect dessert after a rich meal.

INTERNATIONAL T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INTERNATIONAL

Pastel de Nata

MAKES 4 TARTS AS A DESSERT

1 egg • 2 egg yolks 115g golden caster sugar 2 tablespoons cornflour 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 300ml full fat milk 100ml fresh single cream 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 sheet rolled puff pastry

1. Place the egg and yolks into a thick bottomed sauce pan. Add the sugar, cornflour and cinnamon and mix well to form a thickish paste. 2. Slowly pour in the milk and cream, stirring continuously, followed by the vanilla extract. Mix till smooth then transfer to a medium heat. 3. Stir constantly till the custard thickens and comes to the boil. Transfer the mixture to a clean bowl, cover it with cling film and leave it to cool. 4. Cut the pastry into two pieces and place them on top of each other. Roll up the pastry tightly from the shorter side to form a log and then cut it into 4 pieces. On a floured surface, press down each piece of pastry and then roll them out into discs and use them to line 4 small tart tins. 5. Preheat oven to 200°C (180°C

if fan-operated), gas mark 6 6. Fill the pastry cases with the cooled custard and bake for 25 minutes till golden brown. 7. Cool for 5 minutes before serving dredged with icing sugar to which a little cinnamon powder could be added.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

PORTUGAL

These custard tarts with a sweet cinnamon scent are normally prepared in small sizes to be eaten as a snack. I have made them larger to serve as a dessert.

INTERNATIONAL T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

GOING E 34

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

TRAVEL T&F

EAST I

Claire Borg went to China and returned with reams of photos and some inspiring recipes

f you love food, China should be on the top of your “must visit” list. With a population of just over 1.4 billion, and terrain ranging from the oceans to the Himalayas, China’s cuisine differs from province to province and is so diverse that it defies definition. I started in Hong Kong, and even though I travelled far, I didn’t go further than the southern part of the country. China is immense. Looking at its territory on a map is not enough to grasp how enormous it is, and how densely populated its citiies are. There were moments when it all felt like time had stood still and then others when I felt like I had travelled into the future. By turns traditional and very hi-tech, travelling in China is jaw-dropping. Fast trains that travel at speeds exceeding 300km per hour, magnetic trains that travel even faster at 410 km an hour, driverless taxis in Guangzhou, people using apps to order and pay at restaurants, power banks that can be leased at every outlet imaginable, drivers who arrive at your parked car on a bicycle to drive you home and then wander off again to their next commission, immense train stations and impressive skylines are just some of the things that made me stop in wonder. Then, of course, there’s the food. In China, they really do eat everything. And I mean everything. If it flies, if it swims, if it crawls or has it’s back to the sun, they do eat it all. I wanted to be adventurous and try as many unusual dishes as I possibly could. I managed jellyfish (very crunchy and tastes of whatever sauce it is in, usually vinegary), snake (similar to chicken but has many small bones resembling those of an eel, and very tasty), stinky tofu (looks bad, smells bad and I didn’t have a second helping) and prawn-filled pig’s intestine for dim sum (crunchy, tasty, I did have a second helping but it still remains what it is). u page 52

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

THE SIGNATURE OF THE GREATEST WINES IN BURGUNDY

FOR TRADE ENQUIRIES ABRAHAMâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SUPPLIES CO. LTD GOZITANO AGRICULTURAL VILLAGE MGARR ROAD, XEWKIJA GOZO t: (+356) 2156 3231

e: info@abrahams.com.mt

TRAVEL T&F

CHINA C hinese cuisine is ver y different to what we eat in Chinese restaurants in the Western world. When you sit down to a meal, many different dishes appear ranging from a variety of meats, poultry, fish and shellfish, to all kinds of vegetables, egg dishes, soup, and much more. Everything is served at once. Most dishes are either slow-cooked, or cooked very fast on a very high flame, using a wok (use a big non-stick pan if you don’t have one). Having a very high heat is crucial. When I prepared these dishes I stayed true to my personal experience while travelling in China. Many ingredients are not available here, but I made do with what spices I brought back or sourced locally. Adapt the recipes to your liking. You might want to use fewer chillies or no peppercorns. After all, you should always please yourself first. As meals are shared, I have not included serving amounts for individual dishes. All 7 recipes will serve 6 people comfortably as a shared spread. You can adjust the number of dishes or the individual amounts of each dish to suit larger or smaller gatherings.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

Chinese Pork Dumplings In China, one can buy the wrappers to make dumpling fresh from the supermarket. Unfortunately we don't find them here, so making the pastry at home is the only option. The whole process is quite time consuming, but so is ravioli making. The results are really worth the effort. Make the dough tough, as it will be easier to work with. And when making dumplings, freeze or cook them as quickly as you can. I made these dumplings with my Chinese Aunty. She is the sweetest person i came across in China. I wish i could have expressed my appreciation towards the time we spent together. When it was time to go, she kept holding my hand and squeezing it, and smiling, then gave me a big hug… some languages need no words. FOR THE FILLING

500g ground pork 1 tablespoon ginger, grated 1 tablespoon garlic, minced 1 teaspoon red Sichuan peppercorns ½ teaspoon stock granules ½ teaspoon sesame seed oil 200g fresh, raw baby spinach, very finely chopped Few local celery stems, very finely chopped 2 teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon white pepper 4 shallots, very finely chopped ½ a cup boiling water FOR THE PASTRY

300g plain flour 150g water 1 teaspoon salt

1. In ½ a cup of boiling water,

infuse the Sichuan peppercorns, until the water cools down.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

2. Meanwhile make the pastry. Attach

the hook to your mixer and add the water, flour and salt. Knead for about 6 to 7 minutes on slow. It should be a firm dough. Lightly dampen a kitchen towel and roll the pastry in it. Rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. 3. Strain, and in the infused water

stir in the stock granules. In a large bowl place the pork mince and add the infusion and mix well. Add the garlic, ginger, sesame oil, spinach, celery, salt and white pepper and also the very finely chopped shallots. Mix until the filling is even. 4. Take half of the dough and leave

the other half covered. Roll into a long stick, 2.5 cm to 3 cm in diameter. Use a knife and cut the dough stick into even pieces. Roll each small piece into some flour, then taking one at a time, on a floured surface, roll out into a small discs. The dumpling wrapper should be about 1 mm thin and they all should be as even as possible.

Repeat until all are done. You need to work fast as the wrappers will dry out fast. Hold a disc in your hand and take some of the filling and scoop into the centre. If the edges are too dry you can gently dab with cold water. Fold over and close each dumpling firmly. If you are freezing them, quickly freeze each batch as soon as you prepare them, and if you are cooking them don't let them sit around too long as the juices from the meat will soak the raw pastry and make them very soggy and difficult to lift off any surface. Repeat with the remaining pastry and filling until all are done. 5. I cooked my dumplings in a

bamboo steamer and simply steamed them for 10 minutes. However you can place them in a pan with hot oil and cook them until the bottoms are starting to become golden, then add a cup of water, cover and steam them until the water evaporates, then fry them a little more until golden.

TRAVEL T&F

F ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

Sour and Spicy Shredded Potato At one dinner in China, I was surprised when a dish of potatoes was brought to the table. Potatoes are used in Chinese cuisine, and there are many ways of preparing them. I love this dish in particular, because of the way they are cut and the aroma and spiciness. Vinegar plays a big part in Chinese cuisine and this recipe has more than a hint of it. It is very important that you cut the potatoes into even matchstick sized pieces. Unless you do so, they will cook unevenly.

YOU WILL NEED

2 large potatoes 1 teaspoon red Sichuan peppercorns dried chillies, chopped (I used 4 long ones and 4 small ones) 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt 3 cloves garlic, minced 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Â˝ teaspoon white pepper 2 tablespoons dark vinegar spring onion and coriander, to garnish

1. Peel and cut the potatoes into

evenly sized matchsticks and soak them in water for about 10 to 20 minutes. Drain before cooking. 2. Heat the oil, add the chopped

chilies and peppercorns and fry for a few seconds. 3. Add the potatoes and keep stirring

while cooking. Add the garlic only after the potato starts to cook (burnt garlic is very bitter and unpleasant). The potatoes should be cooked in a few minutes, if cut finely. 4. Once the potato shreds are

cooked, add the salt, and sugar and soya sauce. Test to make sure they are well cooked, add the vinegar, stir and remove from the heat. Garnish with spring onion and coriander and serve.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Grown by nature, packed by us since 1984 Â®

GOOD EARTH

goodearth.com.mt

T&F TRAVEL

Pork and Mushroom Meatball Soup At every meal I was offered soup during my stay in China, even a simple broth made with boiled pig bones. Soups are usually eaten as the last dish during the meal and then followed by fruit. I find that this soup, served with some rice noodles and some leafy greens like kale or spinach, can be good enough for a meal on its own.

FOR THE MEATBALLS

500g pork mince 1 teaspoon sesame seed oil 3 tablespoons dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon white pepper 1 tablespoon garlic, minced 1 tablespoon ginger, grated 1 egg 1 Portobello mushroom, very finely chopped ¼ teaspoon Chinese 5-spice powder FOR THE SOUP

3 cloves garlic, halved 2-inc piece of ginger, peeled and sliced 1 Portobello mushroom, finely sliced 2 whole cloves 2 whole star anise 1 chicken stock cube 2 carrots, peeled and sliced

1. In a large, bowl, mix all the meatball ingredients until they are well combined. 2. In a large pot, bring about 2 litres of water to the boil and add the soup ingredients. 3. Once the soup is boiling, start making

the meatballs by scooping out a small handful of the mixture and shaping it into a ball using your hands. 4. Spoon the meatballs gently into the liquid. Once they are all done, cover and simmer for about 40 minutes. 5. To serve, ladle the soup onto any leafy green or even cooked rice noodles. I served these with some chopped kale, spring onion and chilli.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

TRAVEL T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

Stir Fried Eggs with Tomatoes In Hong Kong, I had a bitter gourd and egg dish which was lovely. Egg dishes in China are not a breakfast item but one of the many brought to the table at dinner. This is another famous Chinese egg dish, made with tomatoes. YOU WILL NEED

5 eggs 3 tomatoes 2 spring onions 2 cloves garlic Âź cup vegetable oil 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar

1. Prepare the vegetables.

Quarter the tomatoes and set aside. Slice the spring onions and finely chop the garlic and set aside too. 2. In a wok, heat the oil

until very hot, then pour in the beaten eggs. Cook until the eggs just about set, break them into large pieces and scoop them into a plate leaving the extra oil in the pan. 3. Put the tomatoes into

the hot pan and cook for a few seconds, then add the garlic and spring onions. Stir frequently to avoid the garlic burning. 4. After about half a minute,

add the eggs to the tomatoes, season with sugar and salt, toss until the eggs are covered in the juices from the tomatoes and serve at once.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

Chicken with Dried Chillies I had this dish in the Hunan province. The saying is that you have to look for the chicken pieces hidden amongst the chillies. I used far fewer chillies here, but none the less this dish is fiery, and the addition of Sichuan peppercorns give another dimension of spiciness. It’s very important to choose the right cut of meat. I used two whole chicken legs and asked the butcher to cut them into bite sized pieces, bone, skin and all. The bones are spat out while you eat. It’s a very normal way of eating meats in China. And I really do love this recipe. YOU WILL NEED

2 whole chicken legs, with thighs, bone on, cut into very small pieces 8 pieces of star anise 8-12 dried horn chillies (long ones) 4 teaspoons dried perennial chillies (small ones) a 2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced 6 cloves garlic peeled and halved 1 tablespoon red Sichuan peppercorns 1 tablespoon green Sichuan peppercorns 6 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons light soya sauce 1 tablespoon brown vinegar

1. Mix all the ingredients together and

marinade the chicken overnight. 2. When ready to cook, heat a wok

until steaming hot, and add the chicken with all its marinade. Stir fry while mixing all the time. 3. When all of the chicken turns

brownish, add some Chinese wine or white wine to deglaze the wok, and continue to stir. If it gets too dry, add some splashes of water but not too much to make it simmer. Cook for around 10 minutes and then serve at once.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

TRAVEL T&F

Pork Ribs with Ginger and Green Sichuan Peppercorns In China, the pork ribs would be served chopped into three or four pieces each. I left them whole. It makes it easier to pick them up if you are eating with chopsticks. YOU WILL NEED

1 rack pork ribs 1 tablespoon green Sichuan peppercorns 3-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced 8 cloves garlic, sliced 4 tablespoons light soy sauce 3 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon salt Â˝ glass Chinese wine or white wine 1 litre chicken stock spring onions and sesame seeds to serve

1. Separate the ribs and marinate

them overnight in garlic, peppercorns, ginger, soy sauce, sugar, salt and wine. 2. When ready to cook, place the

stock, wine and the ribs with the marinade in a pan, cover and simmer gently for an hour. 3. Remove the lid and turn the heat

up to cook down the juices. When the sauce reduced to the right consistency, remove from heat and mix in some chopped spring onions. 4. Serve with a sprinkle of

black and white sesame.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

Pork with Green Pepper and Ginger Stir Fry Marinating the meat before not only ensures that the meat is flavoursome, but that it soaks up extra moisture to have an extra juicy finished product. This dish is so easy to make, quick and truly delicious. There is something about green pepper and pork, they just work together. FOR THE MARINATED PORK

One pork fillet 4 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons light soya sauce 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons sugar 3 tablespoons white wine ¼ teaspoon white pepper 2 tablespoons corn flour FOR THE STIR FRY

1 large green pepper Ginger - 3 inches, peeled & sliced 1 tablespoon garlic, minced 2 Shallots, sliced 4 tablespoons white wine ½ teaspoon salt Light soya sauce ½ a cup cooking oil

1. Finely slice the pork fillet and

marinate it in all the ingredients apart from the corn flour. Rest for at least 20 minutes, but keep it in the fridge if you are marinating for longer. When ready to cook, sprinkle the pork with the corn flour and mix well. 2. Heat the oil in a wok and when very

hot, cook the pork. It will cook very quickly and once it turns pale, remove it from oil. Place the pork aside, it will continue to cook with the peppers later, so it's ok if some corners remain a bit pink. Drain the excess oil, and leave just enough in the pan to stir fry the peppers. Add the chopped peppers, ginger and shallots and stir fry for about a minute, then add the garlic. If you need to deglaze the pan, add a few tablespoons of white wine. Add the pork, the soya sauce and season with the salt. Cook for another couple of minutes and serve.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

u page 35

was very close to trying a centuryold egg but I was not brave enough that particular afternoon. This is a preserved egg that actually takes anywhere from a few weeks to a few months to ferment, and involves soaking in a saline solution. The solution usually consists of clay and salt, but can also include ash, quicklime and rice hulls. The soaking solution causes the yolk of the eggs to take on a creamy, cheese-like texture, and transforms the whites into a dark-coloured jelly. It’s far removed from the bland boiled breakfast egg as you can get. And then there is the humungous Durian fruit. The fruit smells like hell but tastes like heaven, costs an arm and a leg and is not only eaten fresh but is also used as a pizza topping. One of the places I stopped in is Changsha. Xiang cuisine is one of the 8 main cuisines in China and is a fair rival to the spicy food of Sichuan. I was warned about the strength of its chillies and the amounts used in the foods served here. Chillies are used as a main vegetable, not just as a spice, and the amounts that are served in each individual dish are overwhelming. I would say that one dish in particular, a fish head in a soupy sauce, had around 500 gramsmes of chopped fiery chillies scattered all over it. Another chicken dish was so densely packed with chillies, that you had to look for the pieces of chicken among the different sizes and colours of chillies.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

YEARS

G N I T A R B E CEL K S I C F O 90 YEARS

SINCE 1929

TRAVEL T&F

rdering food in China, unless you read Chinese, is a total gamble. There are very few – and I mean really very few – places that have an English version of their menu. I only came across one, and that had a very poor translation. Most places I visited didn’t have printed menus. You scan a QR code which is on the table, a menu comes up on your phone, you order and pay using your phone and then the food starts to arrive. The apps are in Chinese and only work if you have a Chinese phone line that is connected to a Chinese bank account. So there you go, your social life can get pretty complicated in China, unless you go native or have friends who can help. Luckily enough I have good connections there and it made my time there a great deal easier. When someone invites you for a meal at a restaurant, it automatically means that they will order and pay for everything. They take charge and just order food for everyone. The big round tables all have a rotating smaller surface in the centre, so the table can be turned and everyone can help himself to everything. Dinners consist of many, many different dishes, including the many kinds of meats, fish, vegetables and sweet items - during one particular dinner, ice cream arrived among all the other dishes. We ate everything with chopsticks, including the ice cream.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

n China, everyone is your aunty or uncle. And I too now have a Chinese aunty. I spent a day with her in her home in Hangzhou. She spoke to me in Chinese and I understood nothing. Fortunately, I am a visual learner and managed to learn how to make dumplings. We shopped, prepared and made these delicious pork dumplings which were unlike nothing I had experienced before, shallow fried and steamed and then dipped in vinegar. Soy sauce is never used for dipping. That is something we westerners do – wrongly, as it turns out. ‘Aunt y ’ to ok me to the lo cal supermarket, which was fascinating. I could have spent two days in there trying to figure out what everything was. The live foods are literally sold alive or killed just in front of you. There were heaps of unusual vegetables and glistening exotic fruits, strange snacks like duck tongues and chicken feet packed in colourful vacuum pouches, freshly milled black sesame paste that is poured out of the mill still warm, spices which make you wonder what to do with them all, massive bags of rice, dried fruits and nuts, packaged items whose varied contents remain a mystery to me, tea in all forms and varieties, a ginseng counter, dried flowers for infusions, traditional baked goods and so much more. Chinese food shopping is really fantastic for any food lover.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

TRAVEL T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRAVEL

n the open-air fish market every sea creature there is alive in tanks or baskets. At first I wondered whether it was an aquarium market for pet fish or a food market. There were live fish of all sorts, from eels to groupers and bright pink fish, to shellfish and crustaceans. There were huge clam-like molluscs called Pacific geoducks, a species of very large saltwater clam that can live up to 140 years. It is very popular in China not only because it is a favourite ingredient for hotpots, but because it is considered to be an aphrodisiac. Chinese cuisine as we know it here in Malta does not exist in China. Forget the sweet and sour pork and the lemon chicken. Most meat in China is cooked in fat, with the skin on and all the bones left inside. A chicken is cut into bite-sized pieces, bone and all. Everything is served as close to its natural state as possible. And whatever you cannot eat or don’t want to eat you spit out, and that’s simply it. The food offers such a vast array of flavours and textures and combinations that it could take me a couple of years and I would still not have tasted everything there is to eat. Street food is outstanding. Dumpling, pork buns, scallion pancakes, egg buns, donkey meat burgers, sea cucumbers on sticks and candied haws are just a few of the immense variety of items on offer. I left China with many fond memories, an open mind about its cuisine and with enthusiasm to learn more about its food culture. It is definitely still on my todiscover list. There is always so much left to explore. I shall be back. n

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

watermelon

SPARKLETINI

Now available in all leading Supermarkets f Sparkletini-Malta

Drink & Drive Responsibly

T&F INDIA

Vegetarian

Feast

The son of a mother from Gujarat and a father from Uttar Pradesh, Pushpesh Pant grew up in a small town in the Himalayas, in an area which depended on local and seasonal produce almost all the year round and where food cooked at home was an amalgam of different regional cuisines and reflected the resplendence of a pan-Indian culinary repertoire. Photography: Liz and Max Haarala Hamilton

In these recipes, all herbs are fresh, milk is full-fat, and garlic cloves are assumed to be large, so you will need to use two if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re small.

The Indian Vegetarian Cookbook is published by Phaidon in hardback. ISBN 97807 1487 6412 Pushpesh Pant is a professor at the Jawaharlal Nehru University in New Delhi. A world-renowned authority on Indian gastronomy, he is a regular recipe columnist and author of several cookbooks.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

INDIA T&F

Crackers with potatoes and spicy yogurt

Papdi Chaat (recipe overleaf)

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INDIA

Crackers with potatoes and spicy yogurt

Morel pilaf

Papdi Chaat

Gucchi Pulau

This is a very popular snack that originated in the streets of Delhi. Until recently, people rarely cooked it at home, but it is increasingly finding favour as a refreshingly different starter, or light lunch. The recipe cuts the crackers into triangles but they can easily be cut into small circles using a biscuit cutter.

There are many kinds of pilaf prepared in India. Some trace their roots to central Asia, where rice and meats are cooked with condiments. Others believe that Indian pilaf is a more elaborate dish far more aromatic and flavourful than its Asian counterparts. There are many recipes for vegetarian pilafs but the morel pilaf is at the top of the pile because of the use of these exotic mushrooms.

YOU WILL NEED

SERVES

6-8

200g potatoes 50g chickpeas 1 teaspoon hot red chilli powder 1 teaspoon mango powder (amchoor) ¼ teaspoon black rock salt 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, freshly roasted and ground ½ teaspoon icing sugar 150ml plain yogurt, whisked, plus extra for serving 1-2 lettuce leaves per person GARNISH

1 sprig fresh coriander leaves per person, chopped FOR THE PAPDI

200g plain flour 1 tablespoons ghee 4 teaspoons carom seeds (ajwain) salt, to taste oil for deep frying

1. First, make the papdi. Mix all the ingredients

together in a large mixing bowl until a firm dough forms. Set aside for about 10 minutes. 2. Roll out the dough on a clean work surface to about 3mm

thick. Cut the sheet into small triangles, about 2.5cm in size. 3. Heat the oil in a deep pan or fryer to 180ºC, or until

a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Deep-fry the papdi triangles for about 3 minutes, turning once, until they are golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on paper towels. 4. Boil the potatoes and the chickpeas together for 20 minutes

and set aside. When cool, peel and dice the potatoes. 5. Mix the potatoes, garbanzo beans, dried

spices, and sugar with the yogurt. 6. Arrange a bed of lettuce leaves on a serving

platter, top with the potato mixture, then drizzle more yogurt over the top and scatter with chopped coriander. Serve with pieces of papdi on the side.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

SERVES

YOU WILL NEED

800g long-grain rice, soaked in water for 30 minutes 20g dried morels 1 large onion, finely sliced 2 tablespoons ghee, plus extra for greasing ½ teaspoon black cumin seeds ¼ teaspoon green cardamom seeds ½ teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon yellow chilli powder 2-3 blades of mace 1 teaspoon heavy cream 1 small sprig mint leaves, chopped 1 small sprig coriander leaves, chopped 2 fresh green chillies, deseeded and chopped a few strands of saffron soaked in milk salt, to taste

1. Soak the morels in hot water for 1 hour, then drain and wash

thoroughly to remove any grit. Squeeze dry, slice,and set aside. 2. Heat a little oil in a frying pan, add the onions and cook for

about 10 minutes over a medium heat, until browned. Set aside. 3. Bring 2 litres of water to the boil in a large pan, add the rice

and cook for 20 minutes until al dente. Drain and set aside. 4. Heat the ghee in a frying pan over a medium heat, add

the cumin and cardamom seeds and, when these begin to splutter, add the morels. Add the dried spices and some salt, to taste, and fry for about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat, stir in the cream, and remove the pan from the heat. 5. Grease the base and sides of a large, heavy-based pan with a

little ghee and cover the bottom of the pan with a layer of rice. On top of this add a layer of morels. Repeat the layering until the rice and morels are used up. Scatter the mint, coriander leaves, chillies and saffron on top, then cover with a tightfitting lid and cook over a very low heat for about 10 minutes. Garnish with the browned onions just before serving.

INDIA T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INDIA

FOR THE KOFTAS

300g bottle gourd, peeled, deseeded and grated 100g potatoes, boiled and mashed 2 tablespoons chickpea flour ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon finely chopped mint leaves vegetable oil, for deep-frying FOR THE GRAVY

3 tablespoons oil 1 bay leaf 2-3 green cardamom pods 2-3 cloves 1 cinnamon stick, about 2.5cm 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric ¾ teaspoon Kashmiri red chilli powder 1 teaspoon ginger paste 250g tomatoes, pureed 750ml boiling water ½ teaspoon garam masala salt, to taste

1. In a large mixing bowl,

combine the grated gourd with the mashed potato, chickpea flour, salt, and mint leaves. Divide the mixture equally into 20 portions and shape into small balls or ‘mini sausages’. 2. Heat the oil in a kadhai or deep

fryer to 180ºC or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Deep-fry the koftas for 7-8 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on paper towels. 3. To make the gravy, heat the

SERVES

Gourd koftas in tomato sauce

Lauki Ke Kofte

When I was a child this dish was served on special occasions. Though bottle gourd is seldom given a stellar role on the dining table this was an exception. The process was laborious and signaled to the guest that special trouble had been taken. Nowadays, many other more complicated vegetarian koftas are prepared and served but this one remains my favourite for nostalgic reasons. 64

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

oil in a large, heavy-based pan over medium heat, add the bay leaf and the whole spices, and cook for about 1 minute, until the seeds begin to sputter. Add the turmeric, chilli powder, and ginger paste, and stirfry for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and continue to cook for 3-4 minutes, until the oil separates out. Add the koftas and season with salt to taste. 4. Depending on how thick you

would like the gravy, pour in the desired amount of boiling water, reduce the heat and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Sprinkle over the garam masala just before serving.

T&F INDIA

YOU WILL NEED

225g urad dal lentils, washed 250ml milk â&#x20AC;˘ Âź cup ghee 1 medium onion, finely sliced pinch of asafoetida 1 bay leaf 5cm piece fresh root ginger, peeled and finely sliced into thin strips 2-3 cloves 4-5 black pepper corns 2 black cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick about 2.5cm 1 teaspoon ground coriander Â˝ teaspoon yellow chilli powder salt, to taste GARNISH

2-3 fresh chillis, deseeded and finely sliced 1 small sprig fresh mint leaves juice of 1 lime

1. Soak the lentils in the milk for 30

minutes, then drain and set aside. 2. Heat the ghee in a large, heavy-

based pan over medium-low heat, add the onions and fry for about 10-15 minutes, until they turn a rich brown colour. Remove the onions from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. 3. Stir the asafoetida into the

pan, then add the bay leaf, ginger, whole spices, and yellow chilli, cook over medium heat for 1-2 minutes, or until the spices begin to change colour. 4. Add the lentils, stir in the ground

coriander, and season with salt to taste. Pour in 475ml water, bring to the boil and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, until the lentils are almost done but not mushy. Drain, cover the pan tightly, turn the heat to very low and cook for about 5 minutes, on a heat diffuser if possible.

Hearty dal

Urad Dal

SERVES

Urad lentils are black beans unhusked and whole and are commonly cooked in the Punjab. Split and skin removed they are enjoyed equally in Uttar Pradesh and Bihar. These lentils are considered to be heavy, hard to digest, and are usually tempered with asafoetida or garlic to lighten them. Dry urad lentils are a delicacy in Awadh. 66

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

5. For the tempering, heat 2

tablespoons ghee in a small frying pan over medium heat, add the garlic cloves and dried red chilli, and fry for 30 seconds. 6. Transfer the cooked dal to a

serving dish, pour the tempering mixture over, and serve, garnished with the fried onions, sliced chillis, and mint leaves. Squeeze the lime juice over the top, if using.

T&F INDIA

YOU WILL NEED

200g arhar/toor dal (yellow split pigeon peas), rinsed, soaked in water for 30 minutes and drained 200g vegetable drumsticks or green beans 4 fresh green chillies, slit lengthwise 120g medium shallots, left whole 300g medium tomatoes, quartered 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon chilli powder 1 teaspoon Sambar Masala 2 tablespoons tamarind extract 3 teaspoons chopped coriander leaves salt, to taste FOR TEMPERING

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon urad deal lentils (black gram), rinsed 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds 15-20 curry leaves Pinch of asafoetida

1. Put the arhar/toor dal in a

large, heavy-based pan, add the vegetable drumstick or green beans, green chillies, shallots, tomatoes, turmeric, and chilli powder, 1 litre water, and season with salt to taste. 2. Bring to the boil, then turn

the heat down to medium low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in the Sambar Masala and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.

Lentil and vegetable stew

SERVES

No Indian meal is complete without a lentil dish and the south-Indian sambar has an unrivalled pan-India following. This vegetable enriched lentil soup is served with snacks such as Dosa and Idli and, accompanied by rice, can also comprise a separate course in a formal meal. There are many regional variations and it would be a very brave man who would hazard to share an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;authenticâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; recipe. Until a few years ago, many families laboriously pounded sambar masala following a recipe handed down the generations. Now, people are more likely to buy it. 68

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

3. Heat the oil for tempering

in a frying pan over medium heat, add the lentils and seeds, and cook for about 1 minute, until the seeds start to sputter. Add the curry leaves and asafoetida, and stir-fry, until the leaves sputter. 4. Pour this mixture over the

sambar, then add the tamarind extract and stir well. Simmer on low heat for about 15 minutes. 5. Finally, add the chopped

coriander and adjust the seasoning before serving.

PROMOTION T&F

Why not? Just have a beer.

We all have these moments when we really feel like drinking something particular, like a beer, but the place, the occasion or the company doesn’t fit with our craving. For example, having a beer at breakfast or during a business meeting would be frowned upon by your friends, colleagues or, worse, your boss.

he reason is we associate alcohol, in this case beer, with our leisure time, when relaxing and enjoying ourselves. We cannot drive or operate machinery while or after drinking alcoholic beverages – and rightly so. Apart from the legal complications, driving under the influence is irresponsible because it carries risks. But what if it’s a hot day, you are at the office or out on your sales calls, and you simply feel like the refreshing taste of a beer? Well, now you can enjoy one at any time of day, guilt-free. Non-alcoholic beers have come a long way from their low-profile beginnings. The issue always was taste. You could always spot the difference between a normal beer and a non-alcoholic one. Most times, the taste experience wasn’t that great. This was because of the alcohol extraction process, which affects the taste of the final product. Thanks to new technologies and processes, new non-alcoholic beers are

changing this stereotype, producing a great tasting no-alcohol beer. Heineken 0.0 is one of these beers. Heineken’s® Master Brewers have created the new zero alcohol beer using only natural ingredients, resulting in a beer brewed for beer lovers by beer lovers. Willem van Waesberghe, Global Craft and Brew Master at Heineken, said; “Removing alcohol from regular 5% Heineken® would have been easy, but it wouldn’t deliver the best tasting non-alcoholic beer. Heineken® 0.0 is brewed from scratch and has a perfectly balanced taste with refreshing fruity notes and soft malty body.” So now, when you are at work, having a break after a long drive, after your workout at the gym, or tasked to be the designated driver during a night out, you can easily and openly have a great tasting beer by having a Heineken 0.0 – plus having the added benefit of having only 69 Calories per serving. n ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F PROMOTION

Hacker – Luxurious German Kitchens As the heart of every house, the kitchen forms a meeting place full of enjoyment and life. This means the requirements are high – the kitchen must be hard-wearing and long-lasting, and still function smoothly even after many years of use. This is why Hacker rely exclusively on high quality materials and the best workmanship. The innovative edge finish “PUResist”, for example, offers optimal protection against the penetration of moisture. Within the systemat/ART and classic/ART kitchen systems, sophisticated appearance and top-quality craftsmanship come together naturally. Cooking becomes a pleasurable experience with a Hacker kitchen

Classic - TorontoGL Alteiche Cognac

classic/ART

Classic - Cristall Polarweiss

This young and modern range offers you kitchens and cabinets in a variety of different styles.

Classic - Comet Spachtelbeton graphite

Classic - Laser Brillant Perlgrau

Classic - Integrale Perlgrau Metall Glas schwarz

Classic - Malaga Satin

Classic - Breda weiss

Classic - Lotus Graphit

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Our product “classic” provides you with a fascinating array of possibilities for cabinet configuration as well as fittings and accessories. The many innovative functions of this kitchen turn cooking into a real experience. Taking the traditional base unit height of 72 cm as a basis, there are cabinets in many different sizes and various plinth heights to choose from. Put together your own personal kitchen to meet your individual requirements and demands. The highquality, hard-wearing and easy-care material ensures that your kitchen cabinets will give you pleasure for many more years to come. The price performance ratio also offers multi-faceted, individualised solutions to suit all tastes. The handle-less design of classicART offers a conscious cabinet concept and adds the finishing touches to the concerning benefits of the range. The planning of sleek and modern kitchens follows the trend towards clear-cut lines and sets the stage in an interesting scene. This then creates new possibilities for cooking and living space solutions.

PROMOTION T&F

Systemat - Chêne antique argenté poreux

systemat/ART

Systemat - Grafite Stone Keramik Echtbeton natur

The sophisticated, design-oriented cabinet-system for your kitchen

One cabinet – endless possibilities. Good design distinguishes itself by means of the synthesis from a creative and well thought out composition and presentation. Our ingenious and sophisticated system featuring variable and clearly structured modules and an array of different sizes offers a high degree of creative freedom for your cabinets. Extremely robust and convenient pull-outs, unusual shelf and cabinet solutions with an integrated lighting concept and together with smart interior fittings offer optimal storage space. Customised solutions meet the highest of demands in terms of design and function and make our kitchens the starting point for an unforgettable culinary experiences. Contemporary kitchen cabinet architecture takes new, individualised forms of living and furnishing into consideration.

Systemat - Graphite & Alteiche sand

Systemat - SilverStar

Systemat - Iron Grey

Hacker Kitchens can now also be equipped with their exclusive range of Blaupunkt kitchen appliances.

Discover the full range of Hacker Kitchens and Blaupunkt appliances at Joinwell, Mill Street, Qormi. T. 2278 2000 Systemat - Raeuchereiche

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F PROMOTION

KRION K-LIFE The material that improves people’s quality of life and air Krion K-Life is an exciting new generation solid surface developed by Porcelanosa Group. A solid non-porous material available in sheets, K-Life is uniform throughout and smooth and warm to the touch. Pieces can be bonded together to create smooth seamless surfaces. K-Life’s innovative technology is not only antibacterial and resistant to stains, but it also improves air quality. This new material represents a technological leap forward which allows for the domestic elements that are used daily to actively contribute to the cleaning and quality of the atmosphere at home and in public spaces, improving people’s quality of life. Using a process known as photocatalysis, K-Life improves air quality by neutralising nitrogen oxide, sulphur dioxide and volatile organic compounds. When in contact with any type of light, K-Life’s properties are activated, initiating a self-cleaning and clean-air regeneration process.

K-Life has been accredited in air purification both indoors and outdoors, certifying that 1m2 of the new Krion Eco-Active can purify the necessary air for 6.5 people to breathe pure air for a year.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

rion K-Life is a hygienic, inert and non-toxic product that is virtually fireproof, easy to maintain and repair, and which can be transformed into a limitless variety of shapes. It is highly resistant to chemical agents, steam and outdoor conditions. This exclusive combination of visual and technical features make K-Life the ideal solution for a wide range of applications such as furnishings, kitchens, bathrooms, boat fixtures, wall coverings or for architectural uses including cladding. There are no limits to the use of K-Life. K-Life is made from two thirds natural minerals (alumina trihydrate) and one third cutting-edge acrylic resins blended with a series of activators that have been added to the formula using an exclusive new technology called Krion Eco-Active Solid Technology. The formula combines the technical and visual qualities of the minerals with polymeric and photocatalytic properties. In this way, the photocatalytic properties are incorporated throughout the whole structure of the Krion material and not as a surface treatment. This ensures a unique set of characteristics for K-Life: its ability to purify the air and eliminate chemical substances, its additive-free capacity to eliminate bacteria and prevent them from spreading, and its hardness, resistance, durability, low maintenance and easy-toclean surface without using any hazardous components in its formulation. K-Life’s technology could potentially generate major improvements in the environment in urban areas and in city centres. One of the effects of modern-day pollution is the presence of potentially harmful gases such as nitrogen oxide, sulphur dioxide and volatile organic compounds in the air, both outdoors and in our homes. When some of these gases are in contact with the K-Life surface, there is a chemical reaction which neutralises this damaging effect, producing harmless mineral salts and water as a result. K-Life has been accredited in air purification both indoors and outdoors, certifying that 1m2 of the new Krion Eco-Active can help purify the necessary air for 6.5 people to breathe pure air for a year.

PROMOTION T&F

Krion Eco-Active Solid Technology This new technology is based on a natural phenomenon known as photocatalysis. The secret of the technology is the incorporation of a series of activators specially developed by Krion. When light of any kind falls on the surface, the following properties are activated: K-Life purifies the air, is selfcleaning and antibacterial, and is able to eliminate chemical substances. Because these new properties do not modify the physical characteristics or colour of K-Life in any way, there is no limitation to its use.

AIR PURIFICATION In the atmosphere and in our homes, due to pollution there are certain gases which are dangerous for humans and nature. In particular, these gases are nitrogen oxides, sulphur oxides and volatile organic compounds (VOC). When any of these gases come into contact with the K-Life surface, there is a chemical degradation, generating harmless products such as mineral salts and water.

ANTI-BACTERIAL Bacteria are naturally present in our surroundings, tending to form colonies and grow in spaces favourable to them, such as porous materials, joints or surfaces which are difficult to clean, and leading to illnesses which are dangerous to our health. Thanks to the new Krion Eco-Active Technology, not only can bacteria not grow in the material, but when coming into contact with the surface of the active material, the bacteria are eliminated.

SELF-CLEANING Thanks to the revolutionary new technology present in Krion Eco-Active, liquids and dirt can be cleaned from the surface of the material with greater ease, reducing the use of detergents.

ELIMINATION OF CHEMICAL PRODUCTS Through the new technology present in Krion Eco-Active a large number of compounds that are dangerous to our health can be eliminated, such as pesticides present in our surroundings, and especially in the foods we consume. KRION K-Life can successfully transform the most complex design ideas into authentic realities for kitchens, bathrooms, bedrooms, clinics and retail outlets and for a wide range of architectural applications. n Visit the Satariano Showroom in Valley Road to explore the endless design opportunities. Tel: 2149 2149

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F CONTEMPORARY LIVING

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

CONTEMPORARY LIVING T&F

KaleidosHouse.

An unusually long site in Mexico set between other buildings has been turned into an innovative and spacious family home, offering inspiration for similarly shaped plots in Malta. Taller Estilo Arquitectura S. de R. L. de C. V. Arq. Víctor Alejandro Cruz Domínguez Arq. Iván Atahualpa Hernández Salazar Arq. Luís Armando Estrada Aguilar

Construction team Ing. Juan Diaz Cab Arq. Carlos Canto Trujillo

Collaborators Arq. Silvia Cuitún Coronado Arq. Daniel Rivera Arjona

Structure designer Ing. Rafael Domínguez Barjau

Photography David Cervera Elías Collí Medina

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

CONTEMPORARY LIVING T&F

“H

ow to create a single-family home which is comfortable, functional and out of the ordinary, in a lot measuring 4 x 69 metres without dying in the attempt” was Taller Estilo Arquitectura’s challenge when designing “Kaleidos House”. The fact that the site was 17 times as long as its width didn’t impede the creation of a unique and innovatively designed, spacious house. The design team turned the strip-shaped plot into a 280-square metre, 3-bedroomed family home with outdoor spaces and plenty of natural light.

KaleidosHouse. ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F CONTEMPORARY LIVING

KaleidosHouse. 80

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

CONTEMPORARY LIVING T&F

he design proposal was to take advantage of the siteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s proportions to create a sensory experience throughout the entire length of the lot. Rather than taking the shortest distance between two points, the design leads you to discover the house gradually, space by space, taking a winding path defined by changes of materials, scale, lighting and transitions between interior and exterior spaces.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F

CONTEMPORARY LIVING

KaleidosHouse.

n the lot there was a structure dating back to the 70s that was in good condition and the design team decided to incorporate it. Given that the materiality of the project was a determining factor for the final image of the project, the team decided to clearly define the two design periods through their materials. The old part retains its traditional character with two clearly limited spaces, where the walls and ceilings are finished in stucco with paint and the floors are made of â&#x20AC;&#x153;pasta tilesâ&#x20AC;?, which are characteristic of the region.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

mediterranean atmosphere

coincasa

OPEN MON TO FRI 9AM TO 8PM | SAT 9AM TO 6PM | SUNDAYS & PUBLIC FROM 10AM TO 6PM

T&F CONTEMPORARY LIVING

KaleidosHouse.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

CONTEMPORARY LIVING T&F

he new structure becomes a monolithic interior box with a semicircul ar p er foration strategically placed to introduce natural lighting and ventilation.

Walls and ceilings, as well as the ground floor, are made of polished gray concrete, while on the upper floor the concrete is hammered, creating a texture that gives warmth to the space.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F CONTEMPORARY LIVING

KaleidosHouse.

nside the house, there are no enclosures or changes in levels on any of the floors. The private and service spaces are defined using reflective glass walls in such a way that one can see from the inside to the outside, while from the outside all that can be seen is a reflection. Like a kaleidoscope, a series of mirrors strategically located inside a tube create an optical illusion of pattern and space, these walls help create an infinite set of reflections that vary throughout the day thanks to the light and shadows provided by the semicircular perforation located in the interior garden and the sculptural staircase which leads to the homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s private area.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F CONTEMPORARY LIVING

KaleidosHouse.

he two main areas of the project that date from different eras are connected through a semienclosed patio. This creates the first recess of the 69-metre route through the home and serves as a transition between the two areas. The courtyard provides a spatial pause between the first impression one gets of the home and the next discoverable space. The architectural solution of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Kaleidos Houseâ&#x20AC;? results in a unique, contemporary home, full of surprises and spatial sensations that make daily life a pleasure, despite the original challenge of designing a lot with such particular dimensions. n

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

BOV HOME LOANS

BUY THE PROPERTY OF YOUR DREAMS Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to look at a new property or upgrading your current home, a BOV Home Loan can assist you with a home loan built around your personal financial situation. Talk to us today. All loans are subject to normal bank lending criteria and final approval from the Bank. The term of the loan must not go beyond retirement age. More information is available from www.bov.com or contact 2131 2020. Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Ĺťakkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130 Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta).

T&F INTERIORS

A SENSE OF

PLACE Sig Bergamin has five dogs named India, China, America, Africa, and Asia. They’re an appropriate troupe for an inveterate globe-trotter with homes in São Paulo, New York, Paris, and Trancoso in Brazil whose exuberant style is at home anywhere. Photography: Björn Wallander

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

INTERIORS T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F INTERIORS

“I don’t like apartments that are just one style or one period. For me, everything should be together: 1950s, 1960s, nineteenth century, Middle Eastern, modern”

self-described “maximalist”, architect and designer Sig Bergamim travels constantly and loves collecting treasures from around the world. Blending eighteenth- and nineteenth-century French and Italian furnishings seamlessly with modern pieces from North and South America, his designs are exquisite mélanges of chic. At his home in São Paulo, Bergamin meticulously rotates which pillows, slipcovers, and lampshades are on display depending on the season. He dedicates just as much attention to each of the client homes he works on, bringing wide-ranging pieces into a cohesive, distinctive whole, mixing objects he collects on his travels with his clients’ own personal possessions. The particularity of his eclectic approach to design is that its predictably unpredictable mix of sensuality and serenity is identifiably Brazilian yet universal. It travels well and is at home everywhere, whether in historic Paris’ Place Vendôme, out in the countryside, or in the penthouses of São Paulo or Manhattan. Each room and space he designs has its own individual character, no two interiors are ever alike, yet they work successfully as a delightfully coherent whole with a signature style that is recognisably “Sig Bergamim”. Rooms are filled with fabric, art, books, and ornaments, arranged in ways that look as though they were accumulated over a lifetime and still enjoyed daily by their owners.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Sig Bergamim

T&F INTERIORS

Architects Murilo Lomas and Sig Bergamin

As perfectly arranged as they are, Bergamim’s interiors don’t have a touch-me-not appearance where visitors might feel they have to perch on the edge of their seats if they’re ever brave enough to sit down. The atmosphere is carefree and inviting, elegant but casual enough to make you feel as though you can kick off your shoes and curl up on a pile of cushions with one of the many books stacked around the room. Beyond the explosion of colour, pattern and richly layered textures, if you can tease out one element that that makes Bergamim’s rooms feel alive with vibrant energy, it’s his use of organic shapes. Plants and flowers, shells and corals, and animal-shaped ornaments are dotted about his interiors and embroidered – often literally – into their fabric He says that an interior should never look perfectly done, as though it had just been finished, believing that even a brand new home should feel like it has evolved over time: “You want to acknowledge what came before. Having a sense of history is incredibly important.” We couldn’t agree more.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

MAXIMALISM BY SIG BERGAMIN is published in hardback by Assouline, with a foreword by James Reginato, preface by Vik Muniz, introduction by Armand Limnander, and photography by Björn Wallander. ISBN: 9781614287582

Marketed and distributed by simonds farsons cisk, The Brewery, Mdina Road, MrieÄ§el, BKR3000 Trade EnquirIES 2381 4400

T&F EXHIBITION

SOROLLA: Spanish Master of Light 96

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Joaquín Sorolla, The Cypress of the Sultana, Generalife, 1910 Private Collection Archivo fotográfico BPS

EXHIBITION T&F

When, in 1908, Joaquín Sorolla’s mounted an exhibition at London’s Grafton Galleries, he was promoted as The World’s Greatest Living Painter. It was his sun-drenched depictions of the life, landscapes and traditions of Spain, and his gifted portraiture, which sealed his fame. Yet the artist who had trained in Valencia and studied in Madrid and Rome, first won an international reputation for his major works tackling social subjects. Soralla launched his career during the 1890s, when Spain witnessed a period of social unrest and the final collapse of its overseas empire, with a series of monumental canvases concerned with the realities and hardships of Spanish life. The pictures had a lasting impact on the next generation of Spanish painters, including the young Picasso. Having grown up by the coast, after 1900 Sorolla began to create a substantial body of work, painted outdoors, documenting the mixture of leisure and work he witnessed on beaches close to Valencia and further down the coast at Jávea.

Top: Joaquín Sorolla, Running along the Beach, Valencia, 1908 Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias. Col. Pedro Masaveu © Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias. Col. Pedro Masaveu Above Left: Joaquín Sorolla, Afternoon at the Beach in Valencia, 1904 Arango Collection Archivo fotográfico BPS Above Right: Joaquín Sorolla, Garden of Sorolla’s House, with Empty Chair, 1920 Museo Sorolla, Madrid © Museo Sorolla, Madrid

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F EXHIBITION

A series of these prized early social paintings are currently among the sixty works exhibited at London’s National Gallery, including ‘The Return from Fishing’, which was bought by the French government, and ‘Sewing the Sail’, which was acquired by the city of Venice. The exhibition spans the artist’s career and includes important masterpieces on loan from public and private collections in Europe and the United States. One third of the works are on loan from the Museo Sorolla, one of Madrid’s most dazzling small museums, which occupies the house and garden Sorolla designed and built for his family. Sorolla ceased painting in June 1920 as his health failed and he died on the 10th August 1923. The Museo, now a Spanish national museum, was created following the artist’s death from bequests by his family. Christopher Riopelle, The Neil Westreich Curator of Post 1800 Paintings at the National Gallery, and curator of ‘Sorolla: Spanish Master of Light’, says: “Sorolla was an exceptionally gifted painter. His ability to capture life and movement, often out of doors and on a grand scale, remains impressive. Dr Gabriele Finaldi, Director of the National Gallery, says: “No one before or since has painted Mediterranean sunlight like Sorolla.” n ‘Sorolla: Spanish Master of Light’, open until 7 July 2019, is organised by the National Gallery, London and the National Gallery of Ireland, in collaboration with the Museo Sorolla, Madrid. The Curatorial Consultant is Blanca Pons-Sorolla, the artist’s great-granddaughter and a specialist in his work. 98

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Above: Joaquín Sorolla, Sewing the Sail, 1896 Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna di Ca’ Pesaro, Venice 2018 © Photo Archive - Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia Left: Joaquín Sorolla, Types from Roncal, 1912 Museo Sorolla, Madrid © Museo Sorolla, Madrid

MODERNIST T&F

BACKTO BASICS Oscar Niemeyer’s Edifício Copan is known for its sinuous façade defined by concrete beams. Completed in 1961, it is one of Brazil’s largest buildings, with 1,160 flats spread over 38 storeys. One, on the 11th floor, has been overhauled, opening up the space and revealing the original ceiling and board-marked concrete walls.

Architecture: SuperLimão Studio Project Team: Lula Gouveia, Thiago Rodrigues, Antonio Carlos Figueira de Mello e Sérgio Cabral. Collaborating architect: Juliana Sae Interior photography: Maíra Acayaba

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

101

T&F MODERNIST

BACKTO BASICS EdifĂcio Copan is big. So big it has its own postcode. The 38-story Oscar Niemeyer building was conceived to be open to a wide cross-section of Brazilian society. It houses thousands in its 1,160 flats, which range from studios to large 3-bedroomed spaces, and includes a travel agency, bookshop and restaurants among its over 70 businesses. For the last couple of decades or so, it has also been home to an evangelical church.

102

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

MODERNIST T&F

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

103

T&F MODERNIST

104

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

MODERNIST T&F

BACKTO BASICS

SuperLimão Studio was commissioned to transform this 137-square-metre flat on Edifício Copan’s 11th floor into a loftlike space. However, two structural walls running the full length of the flat made this impossible, presenting the designers with the challenge of creating open-plan spaces while maintaining structural integrity.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

105

T&F MODERNIST

106

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

MODERNIST T&F

BACKTO BASICS

The design team solved the problem by removing a series of partition walls, creating three spaces with windows at either end, and punched openings through the structural walls. The result is a well-lit space with plenty of natural light and cross-ventilation, and with long views and fluid circulation throughout the flat.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

107

T&F MODERNIST

BACKTO BASICS

108

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Each of the three new spaces serves a different function. The one at the front of the building is the social space, used as a lounge area and TV room, where the concrete brises that define Copanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s facade run across the windows.

MODERNIST T&F

Oscar Ribeiro de Almeida de Niemeyer Soares, Brazil’s most acclaimed architect, is a key figure in modernist architecture. He is best known for the civic and government buildings in Brazil’s capital city, Brasília, including the cathedral and its sanctuary dedicated to Don Bosco, and the iconic Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro. Construction of Edifício Copan began in the early 1950s and, after a few hiccups, was completed in the 1960s. Niemeyer’s exploration of the aesthetic possibilities of reinforced concrete defied the material’s association with rigidity, linearity and angularity. His designs flowed in curves and abstract forms because, as he said in his memoirs: “I am not attracted to straight angles or to the straight line, hard and inflexible, created by man. I am attracted to free-flowing, sensual curves. The curves that I find in the mountains of my country, in the sinuousness of its rivers, in the waves of the ocean, and on the body of the beloved woman. Curves make up the entire Universe, the curved Universe of Einstein.” Aged 100, Oscar Niemeyer was still working. A greatgreat grandfather who had outlived his only daughter, he died on December 5, 2012, just ten days short of his 105th birthday.

Photograph: Kleber Narvaes

About Oscar Niemeyer

BACKTO BASICS ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

111

T&F MODERNIST

BACKTO BASICS

The space in the middle serves as the kitchen and dining area, enjoying natural light through the perforated breeze blocks that cover the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s facade, and the air which blows through the hinged windows on the upper section of the wall. The socalled maidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s room, a typical feature in many homes, has been absorbed into the kitchen area and is now used as a laundry space. The bathrooms and bedrooms are set in the third space. A perforated plate gate separates it from the other two spaces, defining the transition from public to private.

112

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

Proud to have added another renowned brand to our portfolio VRF a ir c ioners dit on

RESIDENTIAL

COMMERCIAL

INDUSTRIAL

We’ve been in the industry for over 50 Years and are happy to share our knowledge with you during this very important process. T. (+356) 21441361 • www.pantalesco.com •

Pantalesco

think smart • think panta

T&F MODERNIST

BACKTO BASICS

114

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

The industrial language of the strippedback interior is reinforced through the design of its finishes, and its fixtures and furniture. Wiring runs along the ceiling and walls in galvanised steel tubes. The kitchen cabinets are custom-made in steel in green and red, and the large storage cupboard and the lounge table are made from wooden pallets.

REDUCED FAT

TOMATO PESTO

BASIL PESTO

No added Sugar

No added Salt

Suitable for Vegans.

Attard & Co. Food Ltd Tel: 21 237555 facebook.com/attardcofood

TEA T&F

HOME OF THE

GREEN DRAGON Dragon Well teaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outstanding quality and taste has spawned countless fakes. Claire Borg went in search of the real deal, and took these photos.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

117

T&F TEA

“THE TEA SPROUTS ARE FRESH AT THE FOOT OF WHITE CLOUD MOUNTAIN IT IS ALWAYS LUSH DURING THE SPRING GRAIN RAINS.” Su Shi (1037-1101), Hangzhou governor and poet

118

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

TEA T&F

uring my recent visit to China, we happened to stop for a couple of days in Hangzhou, a city in Zhejiang on the bay between Shanghai and Ningbo, at the southern end of the Grand Canal. The moment we arrived, I felt that there was something special about this place. The air was cooler than the cities I had visited until then and I instantly felt at ease. I had wanted my China trip to be a total surprise, discovering the place as I travelled, so I hadn’t researched any of the areas I planned to visit. Once I arrived in Hangzhou, I was pleasantly surprised. The area is interesting and it lies on the picturesque West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage site which has inspired poets and painters throughout history because of the beauty of its temples, gardens, pagodas and islands, and its “idealised fusion between humans and nature”. Longjing mountains, the source of the green tea by the same name, are within easy reach of Hangzhou, about 30 minutes from the city centre, and southwest of West Lake. No visit to Hangzhou is complete without a visit to the tea plantations, so I just grabbed a cab and asked to be taken there. Getting out of the hustle and bustle of the city life was fantastic and ending up in the middle of the tea plantations was just magical. The Dragon Well region covers several small villages, tea plantations, tea houses, parks and a temple.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

119

T&F TEA

was dropped off in one of the villages and just walked along, exploring the area. The walk along the plantations was worth every minute of my visit there. The beautiful tea terraces rise up on either side of the village and the scenery is just dreamy. At each corner it just kept getting prettier and I fell in love over and over again. Village life centres on tea production. The villagers work in the tea plantations, picking the fresh leaves or sifting and toasting them into the distinct light green, blade-like leaves with tapering ends characteristic of China’s most famous green tea. Along the road there are many tea houses where one can sit and enjoy this beautiful light green tea, and local people will often invite you into their homes. The flat and smooth tea leaves – resembling pine needles with a yellow to dark green colour, depending on the quality– brew a tea with a light colour, a fragrant scent, and a refreshing taste. It is much lighter to anything I have tasted before and extremely pleasant. Chinese dates, fruits, nuts and seeds are very commonly offered with tea. I enjoyed smoked sunflower seeds, a fried dried bean and a sweet peanut in its shell. Women picking tea are everywhere. smiling and chatting away as they harvest the fresh leaves after the spring rains. The fresh leaves are carried to the processing houses where they are withered and then toasted to remove their moisture and prevent oxidation. Processing the leaves requires skill and the dexterity and timing you would expect of a master chef. The leaves are toasted and left to rest multiple times before being sorted and graded for packaging.

120

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TEA

DRAGON WELL TEA Dragon Well tea is a literal translation of its Chinese name, Longjing. The name comes from an ancient well deep in the hills of Zhejiang, China’s leading province for tea production. Stirring the surface of the well water supposedly causes the denser layers beneath to rise and swirl in sinuous curves and movements, much as the mythical creature would, hence the name. Longjing tea gained a reputation for fine quality early on in its history. Its reputation was sealed when it was granted imperial status during the Qing dynasty by Emperor Qianlong (1711-1799). Longjing tea has a warm aroma of fresh cut grass and toasted nuts, and a fresh vegetal flavour with a slightly savoury aftertaste. Leaves are available in six grades. The best – designated “superior” – is followed by five more grades. The best grade is made from one new bud and leaf left in its natural form. The second grade includes a bud and two leaves. During brewing, the leaves point upwards and open to look like a bird’s beak and tongue. Dragon Well green tea should be brewed in water at well below boiling point and for a short time. The same leaves can be used for several brews. Start with one minute at 70ºC for the first and second brewing, increasing the water temperature and steeping time for subsequent brews. The tea leaves can be eaten after infusion. Serve the tea in tall glasses, where you can enjoy the sight of the delicate colour and the long blades sinking and turning to point upwards like a bed of grass. Artisan hand-toasted leaves contain creases which enable them to sink to the bottom of the glass faster than machineprocessed leaves. n

122

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

#WeAreOrange Follow our story

What matters is that the food on your plate is fresh. This is why the HANDLING and DELIVERY of fresh and frozen foods are best left to experienced hands. EXPRESS TRAILERS offers a fully-monitored, temperature-controlled food transportation that meets all the requirements of regulation, security and quality handling. We keep serving food importers, restaurant owners and re-sellers through acquired EXPERIENCE, obsession for EXCELLENCE and proven EXPERTISE.

expressgroup.com

T&F TRENDS

Along with other great kitchen and tableware you’ll find a range of fantastic mugs at HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique, from the personal to the stylish. HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique offers unique gift ideas for him, for her or for yourself. Outlets: Pjazza Tigné & Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson). Tel: 2010 6306 or facebook/henrimalta

Check out Mdina Glass for stylish, handmade glass lighting solutions including pendant lights, lamps, made-to-order chandeliers and lanterns in various shapes, colours and sizes to suit any surrounding. See the options instore or online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt. For more information, call +356 2141 5786, email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt or find Mdina Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass

A wide selection of unique figurines and decorative objects by the renowned Tom’s Company are available at HENRI Luxury Gift Boutique. The idiosyncratic creations make for ideal, original gift ideas for him, for her or just for yourself. Outlets: Pjazza Tigné and Mdina (next to Palazzo Falson). Tel: 2010 6306 or facebook/henrimalta These striking freestanding horse heads, which include gold leaf, are part of the range of handmade glass sculptures by Mdina Glass. Each piece is a result of skilled craftsmanship. The sculptures are produced in limited numbers due to their time-consuming production. See more sculptures instore or online at www.mdinaglass.com.mt. For more information,call +356 2141 5786, email onlinesales@mdinaglass.com.mt or find Mdina Glass on facebook.com/mdinaglass

It’s the season to spruce up your outdoor space Satariano’s selection of outdoor furniture is fit for the smallest terrace to the largest sundeck, allowing you to mix and match, and to play around with materials and styles for that personalised touch. Choose from sun loungers and lounge sets to dining tables and chairs, Broil King barbecues for the serious griller, and, to complete the whole outdoor experience, quality sun parasols with handy opening systems. Available from Satariano, Valley Road, B’Kara. Tel: 2149 2149.

124

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

T&F TRENDS

5 1. Ferraton Père & Fils Côtes du Rhône Rouge Samorëns. This blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% Cinsault is medium ruby-garnet in the glass, with dark berry aromas combined with black pepper and savoury hints of dried herbs. Ripe blackberry flavors along with dusty earth, slate and that interesting savoury note which first appear in the aroma are supported by drying tannins. The combination of fruit and savoury, herbaceous flavors is very pleasing. Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: +356 2156 3231 viniecapricci@ abrahams.com.mt www.viniecapricci.com 2. Noel All Natural Serrano Ham combines health, taste and tradition. It is about a clean label ham, free of nitrites and nitrates, resulting in a 100% natural ham. Minimal processing gives the ham an exceptional and natural aroma as well as a fine taste and texture. The quality of this unique sliced ham is recognised by the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español meaning a seal of guarantee that not everyone can achieve. Noel products are available from selected supermarkets and grocers across Malta.

126

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

3. Yogikids Yogurt Banana with Strawberry Flavour. Children need a variety of nutritious foods and regular exercise to stay healthy and happy. Yogikids is designed for children from one year of age, and that is why special care has been taken in developing a nutritious product. Pascual Yogikids Yoghurt banana with strawberry flavour is a delicious healthy snack for your growing child, a good source of calcium which promotes the growth and development of bones and teeth. facebook.com/PascualMalta

4. Treat your mum to a fresh taste of Malta this Mother’s day. Ta’ Marija restaurant in Mosta is full of personality, serving carefully prepared creative Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine. With more than 50 years of experience, the family-run restaurant is a signature experience, offering an elegant and warm ambience and a quality with a friendly service. Open daily for lunch and dinner with Maltese themed nights every Wednesday and Friday, complete with folk dancers, mandolins and guitars. All-inclusive buffet extravaganzas on Saturdays nights and at Sunday lunches are only €30, with regular live shows and entertainment. For bookings phone 2143 4444. www.tamarija.com

7 5. Elba Restaurant is located within the recently renovated 18th Century building situated on the Bahar ic-Caghaq shore line and serves a fine selection on homemade pastas and pizzas, fresh local fish and quality meats. This beautiful and imposing building currently also houses the recently opened Barlatte Gelato and Cafe serving a wide selection of ice cream and cakes. Elba is open everyday for lunch and dinner. For bookings phone 2138 1639 or 9949 9960. 6. This Mother’s Day, treat your mum to an afternoon tea at Thistle Lounge Bar within Urban Valley Resort. Discover a sumptuous selection of homemade treats including house-smoked pastrami, in-house chutneys and the classic scones and jams. Escape the hustle and bustle of city life and experience the unique oasis of tranquility offered by the beautiful natural landscape of Wied Ghollieqa, located off the Kappara Junction, direction San Gwann. With its stylish design Thistle Lounge Bar creates a unique atmosphere for afternoon tea. Book your table now on tel. 2138 5926.

7. Terredora Greco di Tufo. Made from 100% Greco grapes, this wine is a brilliant, luminous, deep golden colour with flashes of gold and green. An outstanding, elegant and balanced wine with captivating fragrances of white flowers, minerals, citrus, white fruit, pear and apple overlaid by subtle honey, it pairs well with shellfish, grilled fish, water buffalo mozzarella, Thai curry dishes, salmon, sea bass, grilled tuna or lemonroasted chicken. Serve at 10-12°C. Trade Enquiries: Attard & Co. Food Ltd. Tel: 2123 7555, facebook.com/attardcowines

TRENDS T&F

12 8. A visit to TukTuk South Indian eateries is like a short trip to India and back, full of unique impressions and tasty experiences. The menu sees recreations of some of South India’s most loved dishes from traditional dhaba curries to tandoor dishes, savoury chaats, biryani, street food nibbles, dosas, TukTuk’s signature dish the thali and beyond. The food is lovingly prepared by talented south Indian chefs who have made Malta their home and who represent the tastes of India today. TukTuk aims to change the way people perceive and experience Indian cuisine. Visit www.tuktuk.mt for more information or call 9914 7147. Follow TukTuk on facebook.com/ tuktukmalta or instagram.com/tuktuk_malta 9. Meridiana Wine Estate’s Fenici White (Chardonnay/ Vermentino/Viognier), Fenici Red (Syrah/Merlot) and Fenici Rose (Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah) are fast becoming a popular choice among wine lovers. All three wines are produced using only grapes grown in Malta, enjoying DOK classification. Their freshness, fruitiness and elegance makes them a perfect choice with salads, pasta, pizza and seafood. The Fenici range offers great quality and excellent value for money. For more information about the rest of Meridiana’s wines, see www.meridiana.com.mt Trade Enquiries: S Rausi Trading Ltd, Wine & Spirit Merchants, Stadium Street, Gzira – Tel 79093197 or info@srausi.com – www.srausi.com.mt

10. 100 Years of Hilton. The Hilton brand is counting down the days to celebrate 100 years of existence on the 31st of May. That means a century worth of innovation, hospitality, and revolutionised thinking. Who knows what the next hundred years will bring? All around the world, everyone associated with the Hilton brand will be celebrating this milestone. Join in the fun. Keep an eye out for competitions and prizes to be won on Hilton Malta’s Facebook page. 11. SACLA Free From Mayonnaise tastes and looks every bit as good as if it were made with eggs – and it’s lower in calories and oil than the UK’s favourite brand. This delicious new recipe is vegan, egg-free, gluten-free and dairy-free, with a thick creamy texture. Trade Enquiries: Attard & Co. Food Ltd. Tel: 2123 7555, facebook.com/attardcofood

13 12. Malta’s first-ever shopping centre, The Plaza, in 2019 has added yet another attraction for their esteemed customers, a brand-new food hall. Spread over 700sqm on Level 0, the Plaza Food Hall has several unique restaurants operating side-by-side allowing customers to indulge in delicious food inspired by world cuisines. Food ranging from the island’s first Peruvian and Hawaiian restaurants to perennial favourites, pizza and Chinese, and more. With something for everyone, it’ssimply great food to suit your mood. 13. The latest Borges olives are an amazingly healthy snack, both appetising and nutritional. The three flavours are perfect for any occasion and ideal snacks to share with friends. Garlic Mix contains olives marinated in garlic and herbes de Provence, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil; Gourmet Charm features a combination of olives marinated in red pepper and carrots; and Italian Style is bursting with olives, mushrooms, red pepper and sundried tomatoes.

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

127

T&F COCKTAIL

Fifty-Fifty (50-50) Use the best dry vermouth you can get for this cocktail.

SERVES

4 ounces gin 4 ounces vermouth ice cubes

For every serving, shake 2 ounces of gin with two ounces of dry vermouth and ice cubes. Strain into chilled glasses and garnish with olives.

The next issue of will be out on 2nd June 2019 with The Malta Independent on Sunday.

128

ISSUE 118 MAY 2019

For advertising, contact Sean Ellul on +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt

Photo: Daphne Caruana Galizia

The classic gin martini ratio is 4:1. This recipe transforms the classic recipe into a 1:1 of gin and dry vermouth.

5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412 5125

VALID DATES

LEE M CARDHOLDER

Credit

5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412 5123

VALID THRU

06/18 06/18

LEE M CARDHOLDER

Debit

5412 7556 7556 7890 7890 3456 3456 5412

5412

VALID 06/18 THRU 06/18

LEE M CARDHOLDER

EXPIRES END

4000 1234 1234 5678 5678 9010 9010 4000 4000 GOOD THRU

12-16 12-16

CARDHOLDER NAME

4000 1234 1234 5678 5678 9010 9010 4000 4000 GOOD THRU

CARDHOLDER NAME

122, Valley Road, B'Kara satariano.com Lombard Bank Malta p.l.c. ... always in your interest! www.lombardmalta.com

Head Office: 67 Republic Street Valletta Malta

TASTE&FLAIR MAY2019

Articles inside

Vegetarian Feast

Around the World in 8 Dishes