Around the World in 8 Dishes

One of the enjoyable aspects of travel is the chance to sample new flavours and ways of combining tastes. Enjoy the taste of travel with food by Michael Diacono, chef patron of Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro.

For this edition of Taste&Flair I have taken one dish from each country ‘visited’ during our wine pairing events held at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro over the winter months.

Spain: Buñuelos de Bacalao

Tasty fritters made with salt cod go down a treat with a glass of very well chilled Albariño, and can be eaten hot or cold

SERVES 6

500g salt cod, soaked for 48 hrs

2 fresh bay leaves

450g white potatoes, peeled and cut into large cubes

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 eggs, lightly beaten

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Peel of 1 lemon, finely chopped

1 handful of parsley, chopped

breadcrumbs • salt and pepper

1. Drain the cod from the soaking water, transfer to a large pot and cover with fresh water.

2. Add the bay leaves and bring to the boil. Cook for 5 minutes, then turn the heat off, cover the pot and leave it to stand for 10 minutes.

3. Lift the fish out of the pot onto a large plate. Add the potatoes to the same water used for the fish and boil them till tender. Drain.

4. Remove the skin from the fish and flake, taking care to discard any bones.

5. Mash the potatoes in a large bowl. Add the extra virgin olive oil, eggs, garlic, lemon peel and chopped parsley. Mix well then add in the flaked fish. Season to taste.

6. Form into small rounds and place onto a baking sheet. Put the baking sheet into the freezer for 25 minutes for the mixture to firm up.

7. You will now need seasoned flour, beaten eggs and panko crumbs to coat the fish cakes.

8. Roll in the flour first, then in the eggs and finally coat with the breadcrumbs.

9. Shallow fry in hot oil for a few minutes on each side till golden brown then finish off in a hot oven for 5 minutes. I served these with peeled chopped fresh tomatoes, salad leaves and lemon wedges.

Lebanon: Quail “Meshwi”

A fragrant and sweet dish to grace any table on a balmy summer evening It is ideal to grill on the Bar-b-q.

SERVES 4

8 boneless quail

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons za’atar (Lebanese spice mix generally made with thyme, sesame and sumac)

6 tablespoons pomegranate molasses ½ tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

Salt and pepper

1. Mix all the marinade ingredients together in a large dish. Add the quail and massage gently to coat evenly. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for at least 6 hours.

2. Heat up your grill. When it is hot, grill the quail for 4 minutes on each side, basting with the marinade. The meat should be served pink.

3. I served these dusted with more za’atar and fresh coriander on a bed of lentil rice and a dollop of lebneh (thick yogurt) scented with a touch of lemon.

France: Vol-au-Vent

At home, vol-au-vent made a regular appearance with a variety of fillings. My favourites were always those my mother prepared with lamb brain. These are filled with seabass

SERVES 6

300g ready rolled puff pastry

1 egg • 15g butter

15g plain flour • 300ml cream

50ml sparkling wine (I used a Crémant)

1 small bunch fresh chives • salt

500g sea bass fillets cut into big dice

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

10g butter

1. Heat oven to 200°C

2. Cut the pastry into 12 circles of 10cm diameter. Use a cutter of 9cm to cut out the centre of 6 of them. Keep the rims.

3. Place the 6 large circles onto a baking tray lined with baking paper. Brush the pastry with egg then top with the other 6 circular rims. Glaze all over with egg wash and bake for between 12 to 15 minutes till risen and golden.

4. Melt the 15g of butter then whisk in the flour, cream and wine. Season to taste and cook till thickened. Finally, stir in the chopped chives.

5. In another pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil and butter together. Add the fish, and season. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes only, then add the fish to the prepared sauce and use the mixture to fill the still warm pastry cases. Serve at once. I served the Vol-au Vent with buttered ‘mange tout’.

Italy: Involtini di Vitello con vongole

Everything that says summer is on this plate.

SERVES 4

500g veal rump slices

150g fresh rucola

100g coarsely grated

Pecorino cheese

salt and pepper • breadcrumbs

40g grated Parmesan

extra virgin olive oil

FOR THE CLAMS

Extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic • 4 anchovy fillets

400g fresh clams

12 cherry tomatoes, halved

125ml dry white wine

1 handful of parsley, finely chopped

a few basil leaves, torn

1. Prepare the involtini by flattening the veal slices using a rolling pin. Season lightly, top with rucola and Pecorino, then roll up each veal slice very tightly and secure it with toothpicks.

2. Mix some breadcrumbs with the grated Parmesan. Roll the involtini in the breadcrumb mixture then leave it in the fridge for 30 minutes.

3. Heat some extra virgin olive oil in a large pan. Fry the involtini for about 10 minutes, turning them often till browned all over. Then, remove them to a serving plate and keep them warm.

4. In another pot heat some more extra virgin olive and sauté the garlic and anchovies together till the fish disintegrates.

5. Add the cherry tomatoes and cook for a couple of minutes before adding the cleaned clams. Stir, then douse with the white wine. Add the chopped parsley, cover the pan and cook for about 5 minutes on high heat till the clam shells open.

6. Add the torn basil leaves and serve the clams together with the juices over the involtini.

U.S.A.: Mac and Cheese Balls

These little bites are quite irresistible. Crunchy on the outside and full of cheesy goodness inside. Yum.

MAKES APPROXIMATELY 25 BALLS

500g ditali pasta

2 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons flour • 400ml milk

250g shredded mature cheddar

250g shredded Red Leicester cheese

salt and pepper • flour to coat

2 eggs • bread crumbs

1. Boil the pasta in salted water till very al dente. Drain and cool at once under running water. Keep aside.

2. Melt the butter in a pot. Whisk in the flour and then pour it in the milk, stirring all the time. Add the cheeses and season.

3. Cook the mixture till thickened and then pour over the cooled pasta. Stir the mixture well to coat the pasta, allow it to cool, then cover the bowl and place it in the fridge till cold.

4. Using damp hands, form little balls with the pasta, then roll them in flour, followed by egg and finally bread crumbs.

5. Fry the coated pasta balls in oil for about 8 minutes till golden or bake at 190°C on a greased tray for 15 minutes.

Sicily: Mille Foglie al Cannolo

This is a take on the traditional Cannolo - fried sweet pastry layered with sweetened whipped ricotta cheese. This should be enough for approximately 15 portions.

PASTRY

250g strong plain flour, sifted

40g sugar • 15g cocoa powder, sifted

¼ teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon vinegar

½ teaspoon cinnamon powder

40g softened butter, cubed

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

50g eggs • 90ml dry white wine

FILLING

500g soft ricotta • 120g sugar

Finely chopped peel of ½ an orange

1. Place the flour, sugar, cocoa, salt and cinnamon into the bowl of your electric mixer. Attach the paddle. Add the cubed, softened butter and mix in gently.

2. Add the vanilla and vinegar to the eggs and beat slightly with a fork before adding to the flour.

3. With the mixer on, slowly pour in the wine and mix till a soft pastry is formed. Remove the dough from the bowl, place it on a floured surface and knead for a few minutes. Then, wrap it up in cling film and leave it to rest in the fridge for at least 1 day.

4. Roll out the pastry as thinly as possible and then cut out irregular shapes. I use a pasta machine on the thinnest setting.

5. Heat oil in a deep fat fryer to 175°C and fry the pastry for 4 to 5 minutes till crisp. The pastry should puff up slightly. Transfer to absorbent paper-lined baking trays to cool.

6. Meanwhile, place the ricotta and sugar into a mixing bowl and whip them together till creamy. Fold in the orange peel. Transfer the mixture to a forcing bag.

7. To serve, pipe ricotta onto the fried wafers and stack them in layers. You may top with some toasted pine nuts or pistachios or chocolate flakes. I decorated these with strips of candied orange peel.

Australia: Pavlova

Makes 8 portions

MERINGUE

8 egg whites • 1 pinch salt • 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

5g cornflour • 400g caster sugar • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

FILLING

500ml fresh cream • 60g sugar • 1 vanilla pod

2 punnets strawberries • 4 kiwi fruit

2 passion fruit • 100ml mango purée

1. Heat oven to 100°C/gas mark ¼ and line two baking sheets with non-stick paper.

2. Place the egg whites into a very clean bowl and start to whisk. Add the salt and continue whisking the egg whites till they form soft peaks.

3. Next, add the vinegar and slowly sift in the cornflour. Continue whisking while slowly adding the sugar and finally the vanilla extract. Whip the mixture till stiff. You should be able to invert the mixing bowl without anything falling out.

4. Using two tablespoons, scoop the mixture into 8 evenly spaced round shapes on the baking sheets. Place the baking trays in the oven and cook for 2 ½ hours till dry. Do not open the oven door in the meantime. Transfer the dried meringues to a wire rack to cool down.

5. Place the cream into a mixing bowl and, while whisking, gradually add in the sugar. Split the vanilla pod lengthways, scrape out the seeds and add them to the cream. Continue whipping the cream until it’s stiff.

6. Fill the pavlova shapes with cream then top with hulled strawberries and kiwi wedges.

7. Scoop out the passion fruit into the mango purée and spoon around the filled pavlovas.

8. To serve, dredge with icing sugar and garnish with fresh mint

Portugal: Pastel de Nata

These custard tarts with a sweet cinnamon scent are normally prepared in small sizes to be eaten as a snack. I have made them larger to serve as a dessert.

MAKES 4 TARTS AS A DESSERT

1 egg • 2 egg yolks

115g golden caster sugar

2 tablespoons cornflour

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

300ml full fat milk

100ml fresh single cream

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 sheet rolled puff pastry

1. Place the egg and yolks into a thick bottomed sauce pan. Add the sugar, cornflour and cinnamon and mix well to form a thickish paste.

2. Slowly pour in the milk and cream, stirring continuously, followed by the vanilla extract. Mix till smooth then transfer to a medium heat.

3. Stir constantly till the custard thickens and comes to the boil. Transfer the mixture to a clean bowl, cover it with cling film and leave it to cool.

4. Cut the pastry into two pieces and place them on top of each other. Roll up the pastry tightly from the shorter side to form a log and then cut it into 4 pieces. On a floured surface, press down each piece of pastry and then roll them out into discs and use them to line 4 small tart tins.

5. Preheat oven to 200°C (180°C if fan-operated), gas mark 6

6. Fill the pastry cases with the cooled custard and bake for 25 minutes till golden brown.

7. Cool for 5 minutes before serving dredged with icing sugar to which a little cinnamon powder could be added.

Styling and photography: Brian Grech

Food taster: George Diacono