crees Supporting a sustainable Amazon
CREES (Conservation, Research & Education towards Environmental Sustainability) was established in 2003. Now, many years later, CREES have a tremendous reputation for welcoming people from all over the globe to volunteer and intern at the MLC (Manú Learning Centre) deep in the Peruvian Amazon – with a view to protect and study the surrounding acres of rainforest. The MLC works with neighbouring communities so that it can teach natives how to use the rainforest’s resources in a way that will preserve and protect this delicate ecosystem without destroying its future.
This publication is dedicated to all individuals involved with CREES, especially those who spent time with me in Cusco and at the ManĂş Learning Centre between 5th October and 17th November 2013. Unforgettable.
Sean Simms
CONTENTS CUSCO ALPACA MANU NATIONAL PARK MANU LEARNING CENTRE BUSHMASTER COLLPA MACAW
4 6 8 10 12 14 16
WOOLLY MONKEY SALAMANDER COMMON FALSE CORAL SNAKE AMAZON TREE BOA HUMMINGBIRDS TREE FROGS AMEEREGA MACERO (SP1) SQUIRREL MONKEY BROWN CAPUCHIN SALKANTAY MACHU PICCHU
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CUSCO A
famous location, steeped in history, Cusco is a beautiful example of a Peruvian city. Nestled amongst the hills at an altitude of around 11,000ft above sea level, it will quite literally take your breath away. Cusco is often described as the historic capital of the Inca Empire, where the famous Inca people first became established and expanded in the 12th century. For several hundred years the Incas thrived, then during a civil war in the 16th century, Spanish colonisation of the Americas extended rule over the Inca civilisation. In the present day, Cusco attracts many tourists from all over the globe due to the beauty of the city, coupled with the close proximity of Machu Picchu and the Amazon rainforest – some of South America’s most desirable locations. The Plaza de Armas in Cusco Square is a vibrant place packed with rooftop terraces for dining, offering panoramic views out over the Peruvian mountains. If after sampling some Peruvian cuisine you want to check out the nightlife, Cusco will not disappoint. Intimate gatherings in tiny bars are plentiful, where you can tap along to a classic British or American rock song. Perhaps the music will get you in a dancing mood… Cusco’s nightclubs usually offer free entry and a wild mix of music, from Peruvian beats to regular pop – just make sure you are up for a big one, as the party will go on all night long!
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ALPACA W
hen exploring Cusco, and other cities in Peru, you will come to realise that the alpaca is an extremely important animal and symbol of the country. The breeding of this animal has been prominent for many years around the Andes, as the high altitude is the perfect place for alpaca to thrive. Traditionally, like many other livestock across the globe, breeding is predominantly for meat, fibre and to use as a pack animal for the transportation of goods. The meat is very similar to the finest cuts of beef, often described as having a texture that melts in your mouth. The fibre (or wool) of the alpaca provides indigenous peoples with clothing that is ideal for the sub-zero temperatures high up in the mountains. In recent years, this material has become more popular in the Western world, as the alpaca wool is now recognised as being high enough in quality to compete with expensive materials like cashmere and angora. When strolling around the markets you will find large volumes of jumpers, socks, ponchos, scarfs and gloves in multiple shades, all made from this interesting material. The designs on these items of clothing often include traditional patterns and symbols, ideal as a keepsake or as a gift to a loved one on your return from Peru. It is quite common to see local people walking alpaca through the streets of Cusco, or carrying cria (baby alpaca) for tourists to take pictures of or stroke. This practice is seen by some to be a great tourist attraction, but others think that the animal’s welfare may not be the main concern of the owner and worry about future care when the alpaca outgrow the role of the ‘cute baby’. It is likely that you will cross the path of the alpaca in some form or another – be it in the flesh, as a good meal, or as a nice warm jumper… so embrace it, celebrate the tradition, and get your alpaca on!
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MANU
NATIONAL PARK
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MANU
LEARNING CENTRE
BUSHMASTER
O
ne of the deadliest snakes in the Peruvian Amazon, the bushmaster can grow as large as three meters in length and weigh up to five kilograms. You can sometimes tell when this reptile is present from a strong smell of rotting animals in the air that the snake leaves behind. There are few reports of these pit vipers striking people, as their usual habitat is deep in the South American rainforest; however, a bite from a juvenile bushmaster can inject enough venom to be fatal to humans. If
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anti-venom is not available immediately after the bite, death can occur within hours. Some say that if bitten on the hand or foot by this snake, you stand a greater rate of survival by having the affected limb removed there and then with a machete – rather than giving the venom time to circulate in your blood stream. It is no coincidence then that the genus of the bushmaster is known as Lachesis, which in Greek mythology refers to one of the Three Fates, determining destiny and the thread of life.
COLLPA T
and the bright colours worn by the tourists, the birds often get spooked, which can hamper the collection of data in the area.
Many varieties of macaw and parakeet feed from this clay lick on a daily basis, usually in the first hour or two of daylight.The blueheaded macaw is the most sought-after species to see at the collpa, which in turn attracts tourists to the spot. Unfortunately, due to lack of knowledge and training, noise, flashing cameras,
The collpa is one of the most significant landscapes in Manú National Park because of the species that visit there, but also because of the unbeatable panoramic views of the cliffs and foliage that line the river’s edge. The animals in this area are perfectly in tune with the rainforest – an example of this was demonstrated by the same blue egret flying upstream past the collpa at exactly the same time every morning, witnessed by one of the volunteers at the MLC when studying there over the space of a month.
he collpa, located just a few hundred yards downstream of the Manú Learning Centre, is a clay lick used by many species of macaw. It can be viewed from a hide on a small island that exists only in the dry season (usually lasting from May to October) before being completely washed away in the wet season by the raging floods.
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MACAW M
anú National Park is fortunate enough to be home to many species of macaw; red and green, scarlet, and blue-headed. They congregate in various areas of Manú, most notably the collpa mentioned on the previous pages. There is something quite special about identifying a macaw – kicked off with a distant call, with all eyes turning to the heavens, you will find yourself twisting constantly to gain your first glimpse. As the winged beauty draws closer, you can identify the species by size and resplendent colour variations, coupled with calls that vary from sounds like old women cackling and chattering, to flocks of seagulls on the coast. When flying overhead, these large and colourful birds display big personalities, owning the skies and
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always offering an impressive spectacle for onlookers fortunate enough to be in their presence. Unfortunately for these stunning creatures, their vibrant colours can cause them to be captured and used as a tourist attraction. But this localised problem is nothing compared to the exportation of these birds in the exotic pet trade, plucking them from their vast habitat and caging them up as possessions for the ill-informed. Manú National Park works hard to monitor these birds, providing important data about numbers left in the wild as well as educating people so they see these birds as a natural asset, not a financial one.
WOOLLY MONKEY A
s you can see from these two images, the aptly named woolly monkey is coated in a layer of thick fuzzy hair, making it a rather cute-looking resident of the Amazon. They are known by locals as barrigudo, (which means ‘pot belly’) on account of their enormous appetite. These primates usually move through the rainforest in groups of between 20 and 40 individuals, and will often have play sessions to bond and establish a social order. This in turn dictates mating rights and sharing of food. Woolly monkeys are vulnerable prey from large eagles above, or big cats below (like the jaguar or puma) – so it’s not always play-time for these fuzzy friends of the forest!
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SALAMANDER
T
he salamander is an amphibian found throughout the Amazon rainforest in an array of colours, shapes and sizes. One of the most impressive facts about the salamander is its amazing ability to regenerate lost limbs. Scientists are studying this phenomenon with the aim of applying the science to humans in the future – just imagine! The earliest fossils of these creatures date back around 164 million years ago, meaning that the salamander lived alongside the dinosaurs of the jurassic period.
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COMMON FAKE
CORAL SNAKE T
he bright red, black and white bands on this reptile are beautiful to look at, but equally as sinister. The coral snake is certainly capable of killing a large mammal or human with one clean strike.The fake coral snake, on the other hand, can be handled comfortably without fear of death, just as long as it can be identified with 100% certainty as the impostor. You are most likely to find these snakes hanging around marshland areas, hidden in among the aquatic plants. If you do see one, you are advised to treat it with the same respect you would the deadly coral snake, which is actually the snake’s best defence mechanism for survival in the Amazon.
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AMAZON TREE BOA A lthough this species is not venomous, it must not be taken likely. With a notoriously aggressive temperament and sharp needle-like teeth, this reptile is not one you want to mess with. These snakes can vary in colour and pattern, which makes it interesting when identifying species in different areas of the rainforest. The Amazon tree boa usually grows to 1.5–2m in length and around a kilo in weight. They are often found dwelling in trees that edge rivers and oxbow lakes, taking small birds which are one of their key food sources. As you can see from these images, this species is another impressive looking inhabitant of the Peruvian Amazon.
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HUMMINGBIRDS T
he Trochilidae family, commonly known as hummingbirds, are probably one of the most recognisable birds in the rainforest. Often minuscule in size with a long protruding snout, these creatures have the ability to move their wings up to a staggering rate of 200 beats per second. This fast action is what actually creates the humming sound – thus explaining the name. You will often find these birds hovering near flowers, extracting the nectar they need to survive – so if you want to take a picture like the one displayed left, you will need an extremely high-speed camera and hummingbird-like reflexes.
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TREE FROGS O
ften well camouflaged, hidden amongst the greenery, tree frogs are perfectly designed to move from branch to branch – using pads on their toes and an incredibly strong grip. Contrary to the name, this species does not always live in the trees; however, the arboreal activity of most of these amphibians means that the tree frog can avoid predators that roam on the forest floor. The colours on their skin enable them to blend in with the foliage which aids the tree frog when trying to avoid other predators, like the various species of birds and reptiles that are able to move in and out of the canopy. When looking for tree frogs in the rainforest it takes a keen eye to pick them out, but this is the easy bit – if you are looking to handle a tree frog you are advised to hold on to the hind legs – if you don’t you will lose more than you catch. It is also worth noting that you should always make sure your hands are free of any insect repellant, as these chemicals can be harmful to the frog’s skin.
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AMEEREGA MACERO (SP1) T
he Ameerega Macero, or SP1, is the Manu’s very own species of poison dart frog, usually found in the shallow streams that branch off the smaller rivers within the boundaries of the MLC. Often when people hear the name ‘poison dart frog’ they immediately think of them as being the most deadly animal in the rainforest, with just one holding enough poison to kill several men. Although this is true of some species found in
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parts of the Amazon rainforest in Ecuador, the SP1 is not deadly to humans, and is perfectly safe to handle. As you can see from the image to the right, this frog is decorated with bright primary colours. If you turn the frog over onto its back, you will see that the blue blotches on its underside are almost luminescent – a species you will never forget if you are fortunate enought to see one out in the rainforest.
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SQUIRREL MONKEY T
his smaller member of the simian family (pictured left) is seen as one of the cutest animals of the Amazon rainforest. Unfortunately, these credentials of appearance and size are some of the key reasons why this species is captured for the pet trade and for medical research respectively. Growing to an average length of 30cm and weight of around half a kilo, you will find these agile animals in the canopy layer, performing acrobatics amongst the trees using pointed claws for extra grip, and their tail as a balancing pole for speed and precision.
BROWN CAPUCHIN T
he brown capuchin monkey (pictured below) is both agile and graceful. Often moving through the canopy in waves, they leave showers of falling leaves as they pass overhead. When encountering people and other large mammals, the brown capuchin monkey will make its presence known by hurling sticks, figs and anything it can get its hands on down on to anything or anyone lurking beneath on the forest floor.
The squirrel monkey can be identified by looking for a yellowish orange coloration on its back and extremities, and a white shade around its ears and neck.
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SALKANTAY T
he Salkantay mountains are just one of many jewels in Peru’s crown. Pictured left is a breathtaking scene snapped at around 3500m above sea level, showing the ice and snow that decorate some of the tallest peaks of around 6000m. If choosing the Salkantay trek, you will experience a wide variety of flora and fauna spread over various terrains. You will trek through and camp in remote destinations, have the opportunity to visit natural hot springs, and, if you dare, take on South America’s largest zip wire. With the Inca trail often described as overpopulated, like an ant trail of people walking the route for as far as the eye can see, the Salkantay can offer an alternative route to Machu Picchu. This suits the more seasoned traveller who enjoys scenery in a remote location and is willing to work a bit harder, climbing to much higher altitudes over a longer distance.
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MACHU PICCHU O
ne of the seven wonders of the world, Machu Picchu is an awe-inspiring location that perfectly demonstrates how civilisation and nature can come together and work in perfect harmony. Described as the lost city of the Incas, this site was completely submerged in vegetation when it was rediscovered by Bingham in 1911. Now a tourist hotspot, Machu Picchu is visited by people from all over the globe – many of whom hoping to snap the perfect postcard picture of the landscape, just like the photograph shown left.
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M
ost people start their journey to Machu Picchu many miles away, following routes carved out by the Incas centuries before. But if hiking isn’t for you, then you can enjoy a comfortable sleep in a luxury hotel at the neighbouring town of Aguas Calientes, followed by a coach journey right up to the entrance of Machu Picchu in the morning. If you do fancy working up a sweat – climbing the 1,700 steps from Aguas Calientes to the Macchu Picchu entrance will certainly get your heart pumping. When you arrive, you can get your passport stamped with the Macchu Picchu stamp, then climb even more steps when you enter the vast and complex maze of Inca structures. You will notice that the stones and structures at Machu Picchu are incredibly precise. Even huge rocks, the equivalent weight of a car, are carved with such care that they fit at perfect right angles with neighbouring stones – almost impossibly so when thinking about the size of the structure and the limited tools used back when they were created. You will also spot chinchilla running around from rock to rock, with alpaca grazing on the grassy slopes, not to mention a fantastic array of orchids (some up to 5 meters tall) that attract flower enthusiasts from all over the world. Macchu Picchu is an incredible place, so be sure to make the journey to this shrine of impeccable human achievement.
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17 16 15 IMP 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOT PUBLISHED
Edited by Sean Simms Designed by Sean Simms Typeset by Sean Simms Original artwork Sean Simms Cover design by Sean Simms Printed in the UK. Oxford. www.seansimms.co.uk sean@seansimms.co.uk
Acknowledgements: Gratitude goes out to the following individuals and organisations for permission to use photographs and logos. Text: Sean Simms; 5, 6, 12, 14, 16, 21, 22, 23, 27, 29, 31, 34, 37, 39, 41, 43. Photographs: Marcus Brent-Smith; 4, 10, 12, 13, 14, 18, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31, 32, 35, 36, 37. Sean Simms: 6, 7, 8, 17, 20, 21, 29, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42 43. Remastered Logo: Crees; FC, 1, BC.
crees Supporting a sustainable Amazon
www.crees-manu.org