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A kiss snatched by the waves
Local How come I don’t visit the local landmarks anymore? It has been a while since I stopped going to either Los Arcos at Mismaloya or Los Arcos at El Malecón every week, as I used to when I was a newcomer. My kids no longer think it is cool to walk along the beach with me, although they are not old enough to walk along the beach with a girl yet, caught as they are in the early teens. For the time being, they find it fancier to hang out at Galerías with friends. I knew I had become a local when the timeshare guys simply quit trying to stop me for a presentation, after seeing me out on the street day after day and week after week. I am the knowledgeable guy now, and when I go walking camerain-hand and bump into a rookie OPC who tries to stop me, I can tell him “look man, I don’t qualify for your resort, save the breakfast for a more valuable unit”, having learned the lingo of the trade after years of exposure.
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Local tourists Granted, there are more attractions in Puerto Vallarta now, the aforementioned shopping mall among them, but the most thrilling experiences I have lived have been in the outdoors. Zipping along the canopies of trees, climbing up the stairs to the mountain behind the church to find a spot for the best sunset photograph, sailing to try to watch whales, releasing turtles at the dusk, surfing under the... no, surfing is not really my thing, although I have good friends whose it is. Is overexposure to the beauty of nature making me blind to this very same beauty? Old friends from my former life usually tell me: wow! How lucky of you to live in a place like Puerto Vallarta! Well, lucky I am indeed, and when I think about it, I get saddened by the feeling that maybe, just maybe, I am missing new adventures of old Vallarta. So, welcome folks from far and away; there is only one Puerto
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
Vallarta and you won’t find it anywhere else in the world, that I can guarantee.
galleries, admire the local artists along our new Malecón, in one word, be as tourist as you can be.
Go sightseeing, let yourself loose under the sun, walk barefoot on the sand, visit our many and good art
That way, when you decide to move to Vallarta permanently, you will know the lingo!
At what point in the cycle are we with regard to IPC multiples? • A first-hand analysis suggests that the Mexican market continues to pay a premium to its peers, even to the most prestigious markets. • We attribute the willingness of foreign capital to extend its flows into Mexican markets to the country’s economic stability and the solid state of Mexico-based companies. • This week we rank our main multiples in relation to those of other markets, and look what we discovered. Of the various financial/equity multiples used for measuring how “rich” or “cheap” a market is trading, three are the most common and which for comparative purposes are most readily available. On this occasion we are presenting the three most comply used multiples (EV/EBITDA, P/E and P/BV) for
the IPC for a period extending back over seven years. After establishing those figures, we will seek to identify regular cycles in the trends of these indicators, specifically in relation to their own averages. In other words, we sought to identify at what point along the various curves we stand. It is worth noting that these multiples (which are no more that the ratios between market share prices and one or more components of their financial statements) are determined in relation to the aggregate results that companies report and accumulate each quarter. Their strength or weakness –and above all their consistency- often times depend on market responses, which serves to richen or cheapen these multiples, in cycles whose trajectory becomes apparent over
a certain extension of time. We can say in this regard that our sample of IPC components has shown a more-than-acceptable panorama of relative stability and solidity except during the global collapse of 20082009. Company growth, whether organic or by means of acquisitions, their internationalization and creation of efficiencies have continued to be consistently manifest with a scant few exceptions.
Financial In fact, this argument (the premium paid for economic stability and coherence on top of the quality of corporate governance and leadership of most companies that trade on the MSE), would appear to best explain the extent to which the IPC continues to trade at multiples greater than those of many other markets. In this sense, it is necessary when discussing the extent to which the IPC is relatively rich or cheap in relation to other markets, it is necessary to take into account the economic environment
In addition, monetary stability, the maintenance of level interest rates and above all the absence of inflation pressures have helped to create an environment of heightened certainty that has been well appreciated and which foreign investors continue to pay a premium for as they continue to pour capital into the Mexican market.
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Financial as well as the management quality Jones industrials and the Shanghai of the specific companies. benchmark. In statistical terms we would add that this EV/EBITDA The multiple we most commonly sample shows a median level of use as our key valuation reference 8.9 times, and offers a deviation of point, EV/EBITDA, appears to +-3.6 times. evolve in relatively defined cycles. Especially noteworthy in relation The oscillations of the past to the P/E multiple is the extent seven years that appear in the to which around mid 2010 sharp accompanying figure lead us to reductions in operating income conclude that that the cycle is on the part of major firms such as touching the average for the bottom Cemex, Elektra, Bimbo and to a of the cycle, though we should not lesser extent Amx, suddenly caused jump to the conclusion that this the average P/E multiple to spike means that enterprise value (EV) in from 18x toward 29x, which gave relation to benchmark EV/ EBITDA way over the course of the year to is necessarily going to be on the an adjustment in market prices, and upswing in the coming months. In ultimately normalized this multiple any event it is interesting to note that near its average. in recent years this multiple appears to be the most volatile to these three Only recently (since mid 2011), ratios even as it offers a relatively have we witnessed a recovery in this interesting degree of regularity. indicator to unforeseen levels, with the exception of those registered From the vantage point of this over the course of the collapse of multiple’s position relative to 2008-2009. The relative premium those of other markets, the IPC of this IPC multiple relative to those is paying a premium to indexes of other markets reveals a clear such as the Nikkei, the Hang Seng premium compared to the multiples and London’s FTSE, and it also of such markets as those of Brazil, displays closeness even to the Dow Switzerland, London, Spain’s Ibex and even the S&P Composite. Statistically speaking this multiple has a median level of 17.2 times, with a dispersion or deviation of +-8 times.
Lastly, we would begin by pointing to the significant adjustment experienced in terms of P/BV, which since last year has remained clearly below its historical average. It is possible that this phenomenon may be due to an increase in the magnitude of the capital account (derived from an accumulation of earnings from previous years and relatively low dividend payments), which has outpaced the increase registered in the prices paid for the stocks included in our sample. This
hypothesis
would
have
validated a specific study that in effect shows that earnings accumulation in the capital account has cheapened the market from this very specific perspective. In terms of its position relative to other markets, the IPC’s P/BV offers clear premiums, and with the exception of the Dow Jones and the Nasdaq, it is far ahead of other equity markets globally. This multiple statistically derives in a median reading of 3.9 times with a deviation of 0.7 times.
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A kiss snatched by the waves
Our Home is Your Home
by Liza Macedo
Welcome to Puerto Vallarta. A warm welcome to each and every one you, visiting our secret little paradise.
Jesús Manuel Díaz Zurita DIRECTOR Alonso Verde ADVERTISING MANAGER alonso.verde@tribunadelabahia.com.mx Letters to the Editor editor@vallartatribune.org
Starting with our representative at Gustavo Diaz Ordáz International Airport, who presented you with this complimentary copy of the Vallarta Tribune, we wish you
DESIGNER Cynthia Estela Andrade Gtz. cisandra@vallartatribune.com
www.vallartatribune.com Weekly publication edited, printed and distributed by Ediciones y Publicaciones Siete Junio, SA de CV Grupo Editorial Tribuna Calle 21 de Marzo # 1174 Col. Lomas del Coapinole Del. El Pitillal, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco México CP 48290 Tel. (322) 226-0829, 226-0800 Questions about Distribution: ventastribuna7@yahoo.com
We look forward to receiving your comments, should you wish to share your experience with us, please feel free to do so, send your story to editor@vallartatribune.org
Vallarta Tribune is an activity and entertainment guide and merely publishes information as it is provided by the advertiser or event host. We do not assume responsibility in errors or omissions other than to correct them as soon as they are made known to us regarding event schedules, locations and/or prices. In addition, we do not assume any responsibility for erroneous inclusion or exclusion of information except to take reasonable care to ensure accuracy, that permission has been obtained to use it, and to remove it as soon as is practical upon receiving your notification of error.
Have a great time, the City of Puerto Vallarta hopes to see you again soon!
We recommend you always confirm prior to attending or visiting an event or establishment. Editor.
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an unforgettable stay and many wonderful experiences. We hope the Tribune will provide you with useful tips making your vacation more enjoyable. No matter where you may be visiting from, Canada, the U.S., another part of Mexico or perhaps even Europe, Nuestra Casa es tu Casa, Our Home is your Home, Bienvenidos!
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
Culture
Marta Gilbert
pictorial style, still in force to date, that confers a strong identity to local art. High-profile exhibitions take place in town, with artist as renown as Manuel Felguérez and José Luis Cuevas. The merit of works by José Marca, Manuel Martínez, Stephan Lökos, Russell Davis, Daniel Lechón and soon enough, Marta Gilbert starts to show off. The work of Marta Gilbert, undoubtedly vallartense and well appreciated amid collectors, possesses great virtues. In principle, as far as thematic content goes, it revalorizes with the highest dignity and aesthetic target the deep cultural roots of American indigenousness.
The history of art in Puerto Vallarta has been enriched by outstanding foreign artists who have decided to settle permanently here. Marta Gilbert established her residence in Puerto Vallarta in de
Liz Taylor, and the meeting a few years later between the presidents of Mexico and the United States, Gustavo Díaz Ordaz and Richard Nixon, had put Puerto Vallarta under the world’s spotlight.
middle of the 1970’s, during a time branded by its artistic dynamism that would get to be known as “The Golden Age of Vallarta Art”.
And just like that, the paradisiacal virtues of the town, its exuberant natural beauty, excellent weather and dreamy beaches, at the same time as its cultural and artistic wealth, were displayed in an unsurpassed platform. Manuel Lepe in his artistic peak and maturity, aided by Javier Niño, create the profile of a particular
The shooting of “The Night of the Iguana” in 1963 under the direction of John Houston, the presence of big-name movie stars such as Richard Burton, Ava Gardner and
The emotional expression and humanism nuances she embeds in her characters are both impressive and poignant. These characters, recreated from real models some times, taken from her own imagination others, but always supported by her gift to draw, convey high-power statements of peace, bliss, meditation, sensuality, courage, anticipation and strength,
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
depending volition.
on
their
author’s
La Bandida is perhaps her bestknown character. A comely mature woman, sitting in a resolved position. She transmits, in an exceptional manner, courage and braveness, pride, dignity and power, engraved in a halo of sensuality and beauty. A strong message that has been acknowledged, through written testimonies, numerous spectators forms different latitudes and social strata. Marta Gilbert redeems with her images cultural traditions and festivities, dresses and coiffures, utensils and tools belonging to the native societies of America . The well-balanced composing structure that gives support and internal order to her scenes is yet another of Marta Gilbert’s virtues. A triangle-shaped weft is common and the division of space by using one or more horizons allows the color to maximize the emotional message conveyed by the work. A palette which comes from indigenous art, in colors with great natural liveliness.
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PV Guide
PUERTO
GUIDE
VALLARTA
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Facts about Puerto Vallarta! Money Exchange
Area 1,300 sq. kilometers.
Population Approx. 375,000 inhabitants.
Climate Tropical, humid, with an average of 300 sunny days per year. The temperature averages 28°C (82°F) and the rainy season extends from late June to early October.
Fauna Nearby Sierra Vallejo hosts a great variety of animal species such as iguana, guacamaya, deer, raccoon, etc.
Sanctuaries Bahía de Banderas encloses two Marine National Parks - Los Arcos and the Marieta Islands - where diving is allowed under certain circumstances but fishing of any kind is prohibited. Every year, the Bay receives the visit of the humpback whales, dolphins and manta rays in the winter. During the summer, sea turtles, a protected species, arrive to its shores to lay their eggs.
Time Zone The entire State of Jalisco is on Central Time, as is the southern part of the State of Nayarit - from San Blas in the north through to the Ameca River, i.e.: San Blas, San Pancho, Sayulita, Punta Mita, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Bucerías, Nuevo Vallarta, etc.)
Currency The Mexican Peso is the legal currency in Mexico although Canadian and American dollars are widely accepted. 6
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(Caja or casa de cambio). Better yet, if you have a «bank card», withdraw funds from your account back home. Try to avoid exchanging money at your hotel. Traditionally, those offer the worst rates.
Economy Local economy is based mainly on tourism, construction and to a lesser degree, on agriculture, mainly tropical fruit such as mango, papaya, watermelon, pineapple, guanabana, cantaloupe and bananas.
Buses A system of urban buses with different routes. Current fare is $6.50 Pesos per ticket and passengers must purchase a new ticket every time they board another bus. There are no “transfers”.
Taxis There are set rates within defined zones of the town. Do not enter a taxi without agreeing on the price with the driver FIRST. If you are staying at a hotel, you may want to check the rates usually posted in the lobby. Also, if you know which restaurant you want to go, do not let the driver change your mind. Many restaurateurs pay commissions to taxi drivers and you may end up paying more than you should, in a second-rate establishment! There are 2 kinds of taxi cabs: those at the airport and the maritime port are usually vans that can only be boarded there. They have pre-fixed rates per passenger. City cabs are yellow cars that charge by the ride, not by passenger.
When you ask to go downtown, many drivers let you off at the beginning of the area, near Hidalgo Park. However, your fare covers the ENTIRE central area, so why walk 10 to 15 blocks to the main plaza, the Church or the flea market? Pick up a free map, and insist on your full value from the driver! Note the number of your taxi in case of any problem, or if you forget something in the cab. Then your hotel or travel rep can help you check it out or lodge a complaint.
Telephone Calls Always check on the cost of long distance calls from your hotel room. Some establishments charge as much as U.S. $7.00 per minute!
Cell Phones Most cellular phones from the U.S. and Canada may be programmed for local use, through Telcel and IUSAcell, the local carriers. To dial cell to cell, use the prefix 322, then the seven digit number of the person you’re calling. Omit the prefix if dialing a land line.
Local Customs Tipping is usually 10%-15% of the bill at restaurants and bars. Tip bellboys, taxis, waiters, maids, etc. depending on the service. Taking a siesta is a Mexican tradition. Some businesses and offices close from2 p.m. to 4 p.m., reopening until 7 p.m. or later. In restaurants, it is considered poor manners to present the check before it is requested, so when you’re ready to leave, ask for «La cuenta, por favor» and your bill will be delivered to you.
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
If you’ve been eaning to find a little information on the region, but ever quite got around to it, we hope that the following will help. Look at the map in this issue, you will note that PV (as the locals call it) is on the west coast of Mexico, in the middle of the Bay of Banderas, the largest bay in this country, that includes southern part of the state of Nayarit to the north and the northern part of Jalisco to the south. Thanks to its privileged location -sheltered by the Sierra Madre mountains- the Bay is well protected against the hurricanes spawned in the Pacific. Hurricane Kenna came close on October 25, 2002, but actually touched down in San Blas, Nayarit, some 200 miles north of PV. The town sits on the same parallel as the Hawaiian Islands, thus the similarities in the climate of the two destinations.
What to do Even if your all-inclusive hotel is everything you ever dreamed of, you should experience at least a little of all that Vallarta has to offer - it is truly a condensed version of all that is Mexican and existed before «Planned Tourist Resorts», such as Cancun, Los Cabos and Ixtapa, were developed. Millions have been spent to ensure that the original “small town” flavor is maintained downtown, in the Old Town and on the South Side.
Local sightseeing A good beginning would be to take one of the City Tours offered by the local tour agencies. Before boarding, make sure you have a map and take note of the places you want to return to. Then venture off the beaten path. Explore a little.
USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS FIRE DEPARTMENT: 060 - (322) 223 94 76 & 78 TOURISM (322) 222 0242 or 01 800 446 3942 HARBOR MASTER: (322) 224 1000, 224 0427 ENVIROMENTAL EMERGENCY CENTER (COETEA) 01 800 710 49 43 FEDERAL COMMISSION ELECTRICITY (CFE) 071 - (322) 225 5555 CANADIAN CONSULATE (322) 293 00 98 & 99 AMERICAN CONSULATE (322) 222 0069 & (33) 3268 21 45 RED CROSS * 060 EMERGENCY * 060 and 066 IMMIGRATION * (322) 221 13 80 FEDERAL POLICE (322) 290 0658 & 64 BUCERIAS POLICE (329) 298 1020 FIRE DEPARTMENT (322) 113 3325 / 55 PROFECO * 01 800 468 8722 MUNICIPAL CIVIL PROTECTION (322) 224 77 01 PUBLIC SECURITY 066 & (322) 290 0507 SEAPAL VALLARTA (322) 226 9191 RADIO TAXI * 299 37 06 INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT OF PVR (322) 221 1298 * (322) 221-1325 (322) 221-1537 A I R L I N E S: AEROMEXICO Plaza Genovesa Shopping Ctr Loc 2 & 3 224-2777 MEXICANA Villa Vallarta Shopping Ctr Local G-18 224-8900 AIR CANADA Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Int Airport 01 (800) 719-2827 ALASKA AIRLINES Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Int Airport 221-1350 CONTINENTAL AIRLINES Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Int Airport 221-1025 DELTA AIRLINES Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Int Airport 221-1032 AEROTRON Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Int Airport 221-1921 AEROMAR Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Int Airport 221-0815 AMERICA WEST Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Int Airport 221-1333 UNITED AIRLINES 221-3264 GUSTAVO DIAZ ORDAZ INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Management Office Line 221-1325
PV Guide
Live Music Guide Mexican Hacienda San Angel Mariachi La Joya de México Miramar 336, downtown Monday through Friday from 7 p.m. to 8:45. (322) 222 2692 La Destileria Mariachi Cocula Galeana 104 int 101, Downtown Thu - Sun 9-10 pm (322) 223 9709 Las Adelitas Mariachi Los Galleros Av. Fluvial Vallarta 234, Col. Fluvial Vallarta Fri 6:30 pm - 8:30pm Sat 5:30 pm - 8pm Sun 3:30 pm - 5:30 pm (322) 293 7778 El Arrayán Arpa Veracruzana Fri 7-10 pm Los Frijoleros Sat 7-10 pm Allende 344, downtown (322) 222 7195 Café del Mar Los Frijoleros Calle China #9, San Francisco, Nayarit Friday 8pm (311) 222-074258 4251 Cesare Marimba Av. Mexico 1208, Col. 5 de Diciembre Mon - Sun 9am-12pm (322) 222 9947
Trio & Trova Vista Grill Guitarrista Daniel J. Pulpito 377, Romantic Zone Wed-Fri 8-10:30 pm Trio La CAve Sat & Sun 8-10:30pm (322) 222 3570 Riviera Grill Paseo Cocoteros 35, Nuevo Vallarta, Nay Tatewari Flamenco Tue 7pm to 9pm Trio Riviera Fri 7pm to 9pm (322) 297 6545
Lukumbé Saxofon Av Los Tules 449, Jardines Vallarta Sat & Sun 10am - 11:30am (322) 225 6375 Pincho & Olé Tapas Lounge Dúo de Jazz Morelos 664, downtown Fri of the mont, 9-11pm (322) 222-4019 Riviera Grill Al & Zoe Paseo Cocoteros 35, Nuevo Vallarta Wed 7-9pm (322) 297 6545
Kareoke La Regadera Morelos 666, downtown Mon - Sun 9pm-3am (322) 221 3970
Bar Paisas Trova Lázaro Cárdenas 175, Col. Emiliano Zapata Thu 8-11pm (322) 117 2432
Canta y No Llores Blvd Fco Medina Ascencio 1989 loc 1-8 Villas Vallarta Mon - Sun 1pm - 2am 044 (322) 169 8016
Blanco y Negro Mario Blanco Lucerna & Niza, Versalles Mon - Sat 11pm - 2am (322) 293 2556
Bar Paisas Lázaro Cárdenas 175 Col. Emiliano Zapata Wed - Mon 11pm - 1am (322) 117 2432
Exclamación Luis Zea Morelos 529, downtown Wed, Thu & Sat 10:30pm-2am (322) 222 7777
Las Ranas Cantan Independencia 249, El Pitillal Mon - Sun 8pm - 4am (322) 224 8531
Ikuai Coral Marlin 39-A, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle Sun 11am - 1 pm (329) 295 5526 ext 106
Jazz & Latin Jazz
Liberty Morelos 676, downtown Mon - Sun 9pm - 4am (322) 222 1822
Cubana La Bodeguita del Medio Salsa Group Paseo Díaz Ordaz 858 Malecon Tue - Sun 9:30 pm to 2am (322) 223 1586 Adriatico Lazaro Cardenas 43, Bucerías “Azúcar Caribeña” Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 7pm - 10pm “Papo” 7pm - 10pm (329) 298 6038
International La Palapa Púlpito 103, Romantic Zone Mon-Sun 8pm - 11pm Alberto Pérez Mon & Tue Raúl Simental Wed-Sun (322) 222-5225 Agave Restaurant Bernardo & Laura Paseo Díaz Ordaz 901, downtown Sat & Sun 9am - 11:30pm (322) 223-2000 Ikuai Ensamble Musical Marlin 39-A, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle Sat 11am - 1 pm (329) 295 5526 ext 106 Riviera Grill Edson Paseo Cocoteros 35, Nuevo Vallarta, Nay Mon, Thu & Sat 7pm to 9pm (322) 297-6545 The River Café Don and Ronda Isla del Rio Cuale Tue - Sat 6pm-10:30pm (322) 223-0788
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Blues, Country Café Roma Open Mic Encino 287, downtown Fri 6 - 10pm (322) 222 7378 Murphy´s Irish Pub Irish Covers Morelos 484 altos 1, downtown Tue-Sun 10pm (322) 113 0373 Philo´s Philo and the Mexican Shuffle Band. Delfin 15, La Cruz de Huanacaxtle Thu - Sat 8:30pm (322) 295 5068
Rock Roxy House Band Ignacio L Vallarta 217 Romantic Zone Mon - Sun 8pm-4am Señor Frog´s Various Morelos & Galeana 518 Sat 8pm (322) 222 5171 Bebotero House Band Paseo Díaz Ordaz 565, Malecón Mon - Sun 10pm - 3am (322) 113 0099 Benitto´s Paninoteca Bar Faz Nima Bay Local 12, Marina Vallarta Thu 9-11pm (322) 209 0287 Canto del Mar Lázaro Cárdenas 365 Romantic Zone Vedette Sat 4:30pm-6:30pm Grupo Cubano Sun 4:30pm-6:30pm (322) 222 7307 Clandestino Galeria Bar Honduras 126 Col. 5 de Diciembre Salomon Fri 9pm-1am Clandestino Sat 9pm-1am Dante Ristorante Amy Davanzante Timon, Marina Vallarta Fri & Sat 8-11pm (322) 209 0484 Hard Rock Café Obis Nigers Paseo Díaz Ordáz 652, Malecón Thu - Sat 10:30pm-2am (322) 222 2230 La Cuiza Baco Isla del Río Cuale Romantic Zone Sat 10:30pm (322) 223 4773 La Leche Almacén Gourmet Salomón Fiesta Americana, Zona Hotelera Fri 10:00pm-12am (322) 293 0900 Memories Café Faz. Mina 207, downtown Wed 9pm (322) 223 0648 Paradise Burger Black Beans Paseo Díaz Ordáz 740, Malecón Thu - Sat 10:30pm-2am (322) 222 2328
Banda La Cantina Various Groups Morelos 709, downtown Wed / Sat 12 am - 2 am (322) 222 1734
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Local News
International Altruism Festival to be held at Marriott Hotel To benefit non-profit associations in Puerto Vallarta Mark your calendar on Tuesday March 8 to attend the International Altruism Festival that will start at 6:00 o’clock in the evening at the gardens of Marriott Hotel, in Marina Vallarta.
In order to become eligible to participate in this project and receive part of the funds, the associations must prove at least four years of work, their activities and objectives.
There will be a gastronomical and cultural show to raise funds for 24 non-profit association of Puerto Vallarta. For the third consecutive year the price of the ticket is $300.00 pesos if you buy it in advance. The idea is to surpass the amount reunited last year of $588,000.00 pesos, to distribute equally among the participant associations. Lourdes Bizarro, Public Relations Manager of Marriott Hotel, described this event as “more successful every time, generating funds for 24 associations, thanks to the participation of 45 local restaurants and service businesses”. The Festival is a gastronomic and cultural show featuring a large
causes. this year, the program “give them a Hand” will be featured, to reinforce ties with the associations. “Many people would come, eat and enjoy the shows. We want give back to the associations the importance they have, and make their goals known to everybody”
variety of dishes from the most recognized restaurants in town. The venue is the hotel’s gardens, with stages set up for performances of dances, batucadas and live music shows, all framed in a friendly atmosphere. Hors d’oeuvres, drinks, full dishes and all kind of food will be available for those who are willing to give their support to the different causes of social assistance, which
will also have an exhibition area to show their work (and their need). “The importance of the Festival does not lie in the money delivered”, Bizarro continues, “but in the golden opportunity to portray to society the gastronomic shows, and to support those who need it most, besides getting to know the social assistance projects”. The attendants are usually people with the possibility to aid the
This year’s participat associations are: Ágape Club de la Amistad La Cruz Asilo San Juan Diego B o m b e r o s de Puerto Vallarta Clínica de Rehabilitación Santa Bárbara Rotarios Ejército de Salvación Club de Futbol de niños Pumas Fideicomiso del Estero del Salado Niños con Síndrome de Down Club Internacional de la Amistad Pasito de Luz Jardines Botánicos de Vallarta Asociación Femenil Vallartense, Casa Infantil Mojoneras Biblioteca Los Mangos Casa Hogar Máximo Cornejo Tickets are available at each association or at the Concierge Desk in Marriott; day-of-event price for the tickets is $400.00 pesos.
SPECIALIZED opens in Galerias Vallarta. This new store has 245 square meters of extension and a capacity to display 72 bicycles for all the experiences, along with all the equipment and accesories Specialized.
The sixth concept store of the renowned bicycle brand Specialized started operations in Puerto Vallarta with a location on the second floor of Galerías Vallarta.
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It also has a BG Fit Studio – a complete philosophy of adjustment and fitting created to help cyclists ride faster, longer and more comfortably, reducing also the odds of injuries. There is also a Service Center. In the store you will find all kinds of accesories: helmets, shoes, seats, gloves, wheels, bags, bottle holders and many more components to improve your riding experience.
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
Food Chef Julian Gonzalez
Evolution of Beers In Mexico
that are also as good or even better than Corona and I´m not saying XX beer or Tecate, but rather Gourmet beers or artistic beers…What?... you may be wondering, does Mexico even have those at hand? Well to my surprise the answer is yes, we do. Being a lover of beers and after tasting several from all over the world I´ve lived with the idea that there were only a few types and brands of beer in México; but when arrived here in Puerto Vallarta this past December I was talked about a place downtown that serves several beers domestic and artistic that are produced in Guadalajara and that are served here. To my surprise the quality of those beers amazed me going from Ales and Pale Ales all the way to Porter, Oktoberfest, Dubbels and even Stouts.
By: Chef Julián González CANTINERO! una cerveza por favor!!!....Oh! The beautiful pleasure of ordering a beer while waiting for food or while having a conversation with a friend or any other social event…Yes! Beer and a social event are a beautiful combination but there again, there are combinations and then there are THE combinations. It´s well know that our beer love is ever growing and that we are still novices compare to other countries in the world, but nevertheless we still love and treasure our beer. Time has passed and thanks to globalization and the imports of
new exotic ingredients and the knowledge of people traveling all over the world has led Mexico into a new Era of changes not only economical, political, cultural or artistic…but also in a gastronomy and mixology way.
To be honest, after tasting some of these types of beer it surprised me that they have a quality as good as those well-known, like
regarding beers in Mexico. I am positive that in a couple of years Mexico will be able to go to those events where beers compete to be the best ones in the world and without a doubt they will emerge victorious and give Mexico a position of respect in the production of this magnificent elixir. Remember all beers are to be enjoyed, but above all they should be enjoyed responsibly.
And to this I also embrace our evolving wines although that will be for another time. Well, returning to our beer. Mexico was only known for certain types of beer and not that really good sometimes except for one that has become a representative throughout the world and that is Corona; but there are other beers Samuel Adams, Guiness, Duvel, Hoergarden, Golsh, Mastro Piero Azurri… As I was taken by these Mexican beers that now satisfy my need for strong flavored and well balanced beers. And like any country that produces several types of beer we have our microbreweries that are growing and gaining strong customers and creating unique flavored beers with ingredients that are only native to Mexico. Some of these brewers are slowly but surely taking the market and creating a new conscience May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
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AN ELEGANT BEACHFRONT-BISTRO WITH EUROPEAN-MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE
Three options available for each course, since the prices are often discounted by up to 50%
Ossobuco and Wienerschnitzel included (Tips and beverages not included)
Promotion starts 7th of May to 16th June (5:00pm on) LUNCH AND DINNER DAILY 11:00AM – 11:00PM OLAS ALTAS & BASILIO BADILLO 101 (ON THE BEACH) (322) 222-54-85
cocotropical@prodigy.net.mx
(CLOSED ON SUNDAY DURING OFF SEASON)
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May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
On The Beach
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Ask about our especial rates and packages vallarta.tribune@yahoo.com.mx
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
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Local News Festival Cultural de Mayo 2012 Guest of Honor: Quebec, Canada
Les Violons Du Roy
Puerto Vallarta Receives Accolades Once More
More than a million travelers rank Puerto Vallarta as a top Mexican destination.
The chamber orchestra Les Violons du Roy borrows its name from the renowned string orchestra of the court of the French kings. The group was brought together in 1984 by music director Bernard Labadie and specializes in music for chamber orchestra, performed in the stylistic manner most appropriate to each
era. The orchestra has been widely acclaimed for the exceptional energy, brilliance and vitality of its performances. Les Violons du Roy will perform in Teatro Vallarta as part of the May festivities on Friday 18th at 8:00 in the evening. artevallarta@gmail.com
New York May 2, 2012– Trip Advisor’s Traveler’s Choice awards have chosen Puerto Vallarta as the #9 Beach Destination and the number one overall destination in Mexico. Puerto Vallarta finished ninth in the Top 10 Beach Destinations thanks to its “golden beaches and indigo waters” said TripAdvisor. com. Some of Vallarta’s most well known beaches are Los Muertos, located steps from the Old Town or Zona Romántica where visitors will find a vast variety of restaurants, bars, galleries, boutiques and souvenir shops; Majahuitas, a white sand dreamy vacation spot, lies at the foot of a lush jungle populated by a rich wildlife; and Yelapa, a traditional and remote fishing village accessible only by water taxi. Yelapa is the perfect place to get away from it all and spend the day exploring the surrounding jungle, scuba diving or fishing. Surfing and kite surfing enthusiasts in the know head to Sayulita, a 15 minute drive north of Puerto Vallarta’s International airport, for the perfect swell and wind conditions.
Beyond pristine beaches that perfectly complement the picturesque Sierra Madre, Puerto Vallarta also has a vast and assorted tourism offer that has earned it Trip Advisor’s Top Mexican Destination for 2012. With 40 miles of coastline, the destination is blessed with a diverse landscape including tropical jungles, lush mountains and arid flatlands, each offering a range of activities and attractions under the warm Mexican sun. At the city’s heart lies the old town with its iconic cathedral, the main square and the newly renovated Malecón, the town’s seaside promenade, which comes alive nightly with live music, artists, mimes, and even the flying dancers of Papantla. Puerto Vallarta is also renowned for one of the finest culinary experiences in Mexico. Food aficionados can delight in the wide array of dining alternatives from family-run taco stands to internationally acclaimed restaurants.
The Landmark Hotel & Spa experience in Puerto Vallarta Located in the heart of Puerto Vallarta, a few blocks from the Malecón and steps away from the mountain, LandMark Hotel & Spa offers its guests a wonderful view to all Banderas Bay which translates into a unique experience in town. Last week they had a pool party in the house, where men and women modelled exclusive combinations, ideal to wear at the pool or the beaches of Vallarta Spread over three floors, you can
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find six rooms, two restaurants and a spa. The first floor has a pool and a terrace area, which by night becomes O Wat Joi, Chinese bistro restaurant. To rejuvenate your mind, body and spirit, The Spa at LandMark offers an array of specialized and personalized treatments suitable for the most discerning guests. At the top of the hotel The View Restaurant features an intimate and romantic ambient, ideal to admire breathtaking sunsets.
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
Column Sandrina Joy
Flavors of the Hood
One unique voice is the fellow who repairs and sells accessories for stoves, blenders and fans. He strings the words along in a musical interlude, terminating in long drawn out vowels. “ . . . por tu estooooofaaaa.” The strawberry truck is slightly less appealing because it’s being driven and it’s not really poetry but a recorded speech. Still it has its charm. The other family members help sell and sit in the back of the pickup with the strawberries. The same system is used for corn, or any other crop in season. But I prefer the walking poets. They are what give this street its flavor. My absolute favorite is Felipe the bread and bun man. This guy gets around and his fabulous voice has been a source of great calm and comfort for years.
In a hurry to find a decent place to live and continue my art studies, I rented an overly expensive but quaint main floor studio cum closet one block from the River Cuale. That was three years ago. At that time it felt like I was living in the middle of nowhere, not yet possessing any geographical context. I was in the northern part of the Colonia Emiliano Zapata, a city within a city. It’s a large neighborhood and all I had known prior to that was living downtown. But it was in this new colonia that I first came to rejoice in its cobblestoned streets, and its quirky ways; realizing that this, after all, was as typical as Mexican neighborhoods get. This was not downtown and I was thrilled. I was excited but anxious. Since childhood I’ve always been compelled to fit in to whichever group happened to be nearby. In a rather chameleon-like way, I’ve been fortunate to be able to always find something in common with practically everyone, no matter how different they might seem from me. This has made it easier and enjoyable to work within groups of all kinds. But how was I going to fit into this somewhat fairly
established neighborhood? I liked the fact that I didn’t see many foreigners on my street. The first thing that I noticed about my new neighborhood is that even though it is rarely quiet, it still has calmness to it, especially during the lazy part of the day about 2-4 pm. After this, the sounds begin. I hear the music of the ice cream car. It is so happy. Being new, I had no idea where that music was coming from or what is was selling, but I was bound to find out. It’s so joyful sounding that if I were having a siesta and it woke me up, I could only smile and tap my foot to the goofy tune Adding even more flavor to the mix, there are the singsong voices of vendors selling their wares in the street. Everything from water to fresh flowers, strawberries, baked goods and more. I did not hear these voices when I lived downtown.
Eventually the closet I was living in gave me carbon monoxide poisoning from a gas boiler with no exit valve and I had to leave my little street I had become so fond of, or well at least had learned to adapt in. In retrospect, it did have the loveliest white curving bars on the windows and a pretty painted sink. I have fond memories before the gas starting turning the orange wall black. That tiny place was a symbol of my independence in my new city. There I learned all the sounds of the streets and embraced the morning sidewalk scrubbing ritual. The place where neighbors would come and pop their head in to say hi. During the three years I’ve lived in Puerto Vallarta, I have moved
houses a number of times. Well, eight times actually! Some were in neighborhoods close to Emiliano Zapata, some located high up in the hills, and some downtown. But in almost every place I’ve lived, I could still hear a few of the same voices, selling and calling in the street. This made me feel somewhat re-assured that even with all the moving and changes I have been through, there is always a consistency to life. Some things don’t change, at least not for a long long time. I like that about my city. And who would have known? For many months now, I have been living back in la colonia Emiliano Zapata. In fact I’m two blocks from the original toxic closet I grew so fond of. But it feels like 2 miles. Living here you cannot help but notice that every block has its own ambience. My new place is slightly bigger, and now a few floors higher. It’s nice to be back, although it was a whole new process of fitting in again. I like my street; it’s small and most people have lived on it a long time. When I’m out, my neighbors greet me, the kids help haul my bags up and people notice when I am not around. They call my name from the street if they need to talk to me. And the flavor of the ‘hood continues. The rich voices floating up to my balcony remind me that yes, there is a consistency to things. For example, Felipe the bread and bun man comes right by my gate at around 4:30 every day selling from the basket he carries on his head. Whenever he sees me he calls me by name. And it never fails to thrill me.
It felt magical hearing a musical voice from a great distance, listening to approach, get closer and then fade away again. “Agua” never sounded so good. I buy from the man whose voice I like best. There are a handful of water trucks, but I wait for that voice I recognize. I want to ask him if perhaps he sings at night at a second job. May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
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Column Esmeralda Peña
The joy of life The art of tasting water for pleasure Water—the most vital of all elements that nurtures the human being besides air. It is well known that we cannot survive more than three days without water, though the time of course varies depending on the temperature, age and the general state of health. It is also general knowledge that the world is three quarters water and that around 60-80% of our body is composed of water. We not only need water to hydrate, but also to digest food and to provide oxygen to our body. Besides that, we use water for other purposes such as hygiene (cleaning), chemicals (diluting), producing energy (construction of hydroelectric power stations), and as well for recreational purposes. Many of us feel attracted by the idea of vacations on the beach or by a lake. And it is now again in vogue to use water to prevent illness and to cultivate beauty as we do in spas around the world. Having so much water in Mexico (rivers, lakes, reservoirs and almost ten thousand kilometers of coastline), I can´t help but wonder why we don´t have a culture of drinking water. Personally, I declare myself a person that has fallen in love with water—always interested in the diverse subjects surrounding it, from its use in spas to water tasting events. Some people might be surprised to know that water is not only consumed for necessity but also for pleasure. A lot has been said about the art of drinking wine or even beer, but the available information is scant if not almost non-existent about the art of drinking water for pleasure.
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Nowadays, the selection of a bottled water in the majority of restaurants is limited to choosing between still or sparkling water, and even at that, it is not always available. In Mexico sparkling water is not commonly consumed as it is in countries like Germany, where it is the first option, and if one desires still water, one must specifically ask for it. This limited offering represents a blank not only cultural but also gastronomic and nutritional. Consider this—“natural sparkling water” is not the same as water that has been filtered and purified, and then artificially augmented with carbonic acid. And to equate “mineral water” to “sparkling water”, as is common in Mexico, is also an inaccuracy, as still water is also mineral water. Offering a water menu or having a hydrosommelier (an expert in types of drinking water, like a sommelier for wine) in a restaurant means not only to offer different brands of bottled water, but also to be able to give a knowledgeable opinion that relates the dish to a specific type of water. There is an ideal type of water for each dish: light, meat, with gravy, for dessert, and basically for any kind of food. The ideal type of water for gastronomic purposes is chosen not only for its mineral content and its pH (factors that should also be chosen for health purposes), but as well for the size of the bubble. Hence it might be difficult to have options in our country, as bottled water is by law labeled with a nutritional chart as if it were food instead of water, i.e. energetic content 0 Kcal., protein 0 gr., fat 0 gr. (thank heavens our water has no
fat! And I mean this, thinking about its purity), carbohydrates 0 gr. Despite a small difference in the grams of sodium (which has been demonized in current marketing), all Mexican brands of bottled water available in any supermarket have an identical label, with all values at zero. Obviously this renders all the labels useless. There is, however, one brand of Mexican bottled spring water which is an exception. I won’t mention the name because I would rather provoke some curiosity in our readers and encourage them to compare labels on their next visit to the supermarket. As consumers we must have access to information about the food that is offered to us, so that we can make an informed decision. And we should also have precise information about the content of our waters, especially in a country where, due to lack of infrastructure, it isn’t always possible to have drinkable water from a faucet, and bottled water must be consumed by the general public. But as I said before, it is not only a merely nutritional matter, but also a gastronomic one. Let´s learn to appreciate water that complements our food, and delights our sense of taste. Any way you look at it, drinking water has only good consequences, and doing it while enjoying the perfect combination of water with a delicious dish, should be one of the basic pleasures of life. The Spanish word for a “toast” was never more appropriate ¡Salud! (Health)
Toots Gabriel
Parties
(and other things dangerous around Mexico)
Column Another thing that these antimonarchists were in the habit of doing was raising ‘liberty trees’ or ‘liberty poles’. They would then arrange to have meetings around these locales. The British authorities would keep tearing them down and the rebellious residents would keep erecting them. To someone witnessing it the whole thing must have appeared like some crude dance. Today, pole dancing is a far more artistic affair. And, one of our favourite venues, Ana Bananas, right here in La Cruz, happens to have one. On any given evening you may see any number of local gentlemen lingering about, adjudicating the festivities. And, with any luck, a few women will do their best to display their talents. Hence the phrase ‘God bless tequila’.
When we were kids didn’t everyone enjoy having birthday parties? I mean, you had fun, you got presents and, almost certainly the best thing of all, you got older. Yeah, well getting older had all kinds of advantages, right? And I could probably name every one of those benefits if I could remember what they were. Now, we don’t rejoice so much when we get a year older. But that doesn’t stop us from observing the day and having a good time. In Mexico, when you are among a group of people and someone mentions that there is a birthday in the house then the tequila will likely be flowing more freely. Mind you, if there are no birthdays, the tequila isn’t likely to be flowing any less freely. It’s just one of those mathematical quandaries. We’ve been fortunate enough to have made friends with some terrific Mexican folks down here. And one of the things that is pretty common is that they have large, extended families. When they decide to arrange a party it is often composed of relatives. Some time ago, we were invited to one such party. When we arrived, my friend Lalo introduced me to one of his sisters.
And I, being a bit of a joker, and also being a bit of a wanna-be amateur vocalist, presented myself by saying, “Hi, I’m a singer”. She looked me directly in the eye and after a moment responded, “I’m married”. It just reinforces the notion that I should improve my Spanish. At last count there were eleven thousand, four hundred and three rational reasons to have a party down here. And if you divide that by the number of days in the year you will find that it is exactly the same as the number of ounces left in a one litre bottle of tequila once you’ve taken a really, really good swig. Sometimes, it is possible to attend an event or gathering without realizing that it is a party. An example of this occurred in Boston in 1773. The colonists at the time were ticked off over a variety of grievances with the bosses in Great Britain. As usual, and as is so often the case, these disputes were over money. In order to make a stand, and to clearly demonstrate their displeasure, the folks in Boston, led by a group calling themselves The Sons of Liberty, destroyed a few shiploads of tea by dumping it in the harbour. But it wasn’t until about sixty years later than someone used the word ‘party’ to describe the occasion.
Not everyone is comfortable pole dancing. And some folks are uneasy being in any social situation at all, including parties. Fear of this sort of thing is called Agoraphobia. Tequila may not cure you of this disorder but it will most certainly dispel it temporarily. My favourite birthday song is naturally Birthday, by The Beatles. Apparently, it was written and recorded all in the same evening in September, 1968. At that time Hey Jude had begun its domination of the Billboard chart. At two minutes and fifty-eight seconds into Hey Jude someone, supposedly McCartney, can allegedly be heard to utter the expletive ‘F*****g H**l’. Apparently, Lennon liked it and it was his idea to leave it in the final mix.
May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
Another hit at that time was Light my Fire by the blind musician, José Feliciano. So what, you may ask. Well, with birthday parties you have cakes and naturally you have candles. Somebody has to light the candles, right? I know, I know. This would be a good time to give up on reading this. But you are so near the end. José Feliciano might have been born in Mexico. But he wasn’t. He is from Puerto Rico. And. in 1967 he went to England to perform. But the British authorities wouldn’t let his guide dog into the country because it hadn’t been quarantined for the required six months. Later, he wrote a song about the incident which became a top ten hit in the Netherlands. I’m sure that must be one of the reasons he always smiled so much. I recently read that, as a child, José was given his first guitar in a brown paper bag. Now, I sat there wondering why would anyone write that. Why would anyone remember. And now I wonder if you would do as I did. And picture him receiving that guitar, in a brown paper bag. The problem is, ten years from now we may not recollect anything about today. Maybe we won’t remember anything about anything. But somehow, I have this sneaky suspicion, that some of us will still remember that when José Feliciano was a young blind boy, he was given a guitar in a brown paper bag. Oh well, it is what it is. Salud!
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Column Giselle Belanger RN, LCSW (psychotherapist)
We Inherit Our Family
We all have a family of origin whether we grew up with them or not, whether we get along with them now or not, or even if we are in contact with them or not. No family is perfect. All families have varying degrees of dysfunction; it’s just that some function better in their dysfunction.
Family system The family is a system. Each member is interconnected to the other and affected by the other both positively and negatively. Think of a mobile, when one piece moves, all the pieces move. This is especially true when you are growing up and living in the same household, but it holds true long after everyone has moved out and gone their separate ways. Of course, it also depends on how much you stay involved in each other’s lives. Some people have to completely cut themselves off from their family in order to survive and heal. 16
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Multi-generational Families pass so much down from one generation to the next. Think about how much is determined by our families’ traditions, values, beliefs, interests, activities, and behaviors. The language(s) we speak, ethnic and cultural foods we eat, values and beliefs attached to our family’s culture and religion,
interest in a certain sports team, passion for a certain social cause, are all strongly influenced by our family of origin. We also learn to value family or not, how to treat our parents and grandparents, our siblings, friends, neighbors and community. What is the degree of respect in your family towards each other? How were the boys in your family taught to treat women? What was expected of them; to help around the house, to excel at sports, to receive high grades, to have lots of girlfriends or get a lot of women (sexually)? What was expected of the girls; May 7 - 13, 2012 | Issue 787
to serve the boys and men, to get a higher education, to marry and have children, to travel and be independent? All of this influences what we are raised to believe is “normal” or “acceptable.” This includes the dysfunction and often damaging ways that we learned to think and behave regarding abuse (sexual, physical, emotional, or verbal) and domestic violence, addiction and co-dependency. The need to have power and control over someone, intimidating them with anger, manipulating them with guilt, or controlling them with fear, may have also been present in your family system. Addiction (including alcoholism) is also passed down
genetically and generationally through learned behavior. The codependent reaction to addiction is also a learned response passed down through the generations. Familiar vs. unfamiliar Quick! What word do you see in the word “familiar?” That’s right “family.” Therefore, that which is “familiar” is “family” and that which is “unfamiliar is “un-family.” We stick with what is familiar even if it isn’t good for us because it is taught to us and established as normal. It is also “comfortable” in the sense of knowing what to expect, how to react and manage
situations and people, and we know all too well how it feels. This is not a conscious decision or choice, but rather a repeated pattern of what has been normalized. A battered woman does not intentionally look for a second or third abusive relationship even though she finds herself in one after the other. Sometimes she justifies that at least this relationship isn’t physically abusive, for example; A daughter of an alcoholic doesn’t intentionally look for an alcoholic or addict to marry, nor does she say to herself as she’s growing up in an alcoholic home, that “this has been so much fun I can’t wait to do it all over again when I grow up.” This is also true for the batterer or the addict. The abusive husband witnessed and was most likely victim to abuse as a child, just as the addict observed that turning to drugs and alcohol was a way to escape and cope with life. Neither of them grew up thinking that it was fun or admirable to watch their Dad beat their mom or throw and break things, or call them names and tell them how worthless they are. Nor did they think it would be fun to spend their adult life being drunk and hung-over or high on drugs with major personality changes, not remembering what happened for hours at a time, or crashing their car, or spending all of their money just to support their habit. Inevitably, we end up repeating the same familial patterns. We resist change; it takes us from the familiar into the scary unknown world of the unfamiliar. Sometimes we go to extreme lengths to hang on to the familiar even when it makes us miserable or destroys us. Just the thought of leaving our comfort zone can be paralyzing. It takes a great deal of strength and courage to step out of our comfort zone and enter the unknown. However, it is necessary in order to break the cycle, and it will be painful as well as liberating. Written by: Giselle Belanger, RN, LCSW (psychotherapist) Available for appointments in person, by phone, or by skype webcam. Contact info: ggbelanger@sbcglobal.net, Mex cell: 044 (322) 138-9552 or US cell: (312) 914-5203.
Activities
The Natural Beauty of OUR Mountain
Plants
2000
Mammals
80
Birds
300
Amphibians and Reptiles
Butterflies
500
85
50% of these species are endemic to MĂŠxico. We propose the area to be designated a
Natural Preserve Because for Vallarta,
Without the Mountain...
There is no future
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Special
A beach stretching to em Mayto, land of rev By Jesús Manuel Díaz Zurita It was a Saturday, the beginning of Labor’s Day “Bridge” (in Mexico, we have given the name of “puente” to long weekends, bridges that link the end of a week with the start of another, which days we use as a vacation), so I decided to forget about every-day stress, about the daily pressure put on by the activity of journalism. And I din’t think twice: I opened my van and threw in the musthaves: a couple of good books, two sets of t-shirts and shorts, walking shoes and relaxing sandals. I added two fishing poles, hooks, the nevermissing ice box with beers and water. I amped up to spend some unforgettable days, far from the urban hustle and bustle, fully aware that I would have no phone and no e-mail within my reach. I would be totally unplugged, as I had not been in the last seventeen months. Very early, I left Puerto Vallarta towards the South. I took road 200, and 40 minutes later I made a pit stop. I couldn’t help it, because I decided that at El Tuito I would have an energetic breakfast, to get ready for the day’s activity. Handmade, warm tortillas that I gulped down with an order of crusty pork, plus a just-hot-enough sauce of chili and charcoaled tomato, all integrated with a generous portion of exquisite “jocoque”, a fermented dairy product, very much like yoghurt made with a process that comes from the colony years. To lower it all, I decided to walk around the El Tuito plaza
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for a few minutes. El Tuito is the settlement of the municipality of Cabo Corrientes. Its name comes from the nahuatl words Teotl, gods and Tuitlán, place of gods, and it is certainly almost a paradise. Before the Spanish conquered Mexico, El Tuito and the surrounding towns were ruled by the Xalisco King Huetlatoanazgo. In 1525 the town was taken after a ferocious defense by Spanish explorer Francisco Cortés de San Buenaventura, who also happened to found Puerto Vallarta. With ten thousand inhabitants, El Tuito still keeps the rich aroma of province, with facades painted with the beautiful color of the ruddy soil of the area. It has in its architecture the beauty of times well kept in its square doors and windows, typical of the mountain area Every morning, the haze that turns everything blue seems to harbor the town, so much that it makes one drink coffee with cinnamon, and even with “piquete”, the alcohol sting that allows body temperature to rise for the beginning of work day. Not really feeling like getting away from this placid town, without taking the eyes from what I was leaving behind, I said it was time to reach heaven on Earth. I drove to Mayto, the coast zone where sea and mountain commune in a perpetual thanksgiving prayer. Half dirt, half asphalt and concrete, the route of forty-two kilometers forces you to stop once and again, to watch the nests magically
Special
mbrace the mountain. very and peace built in the stunted branches of trees along the road, that seem to hypnotize you with a slow to and fro, nesting chicks ready to become the multicolored birds that tomorrow will fill with songs and calls the air of this natural jungle still preserved, free from the hand of man. You can clearly appreciate them, although sometimes it hurts to see how they are hunt by eagles, falcons and hawks, the kings of the skies. Now the multicolored birds, now a badger, an opossum, a raccoon, a gray fox, not to forget the whitetailed deer, monkeys and snakes crossing on your way, keeping you expectant, eyes wide open to grasp perhaps a coyote, a jaguar or a bat living in the area. The way to Mayto goes through steep zones, proper to the Sierra Madre, going from 800 to 1,800 meters above sea level. Just the same you pass by a small plateau in the skirts of mountains or by the peaks of them, in a permanent up-and-down that offers you landscapes worth of capturing with your camera. Then are the trees, the rich forest where you get to see old oaks, firmly erected in all their pride, or aromatic cedars, breadnuts, rubber trees, oil-coconut palm trees and several fruit trees like prunes and cherries, for you to take just stretching your arm If the road is interesting, more so is the beach of Mayto, a beach that stretches along 16 kilometers to melt with horizon in the arms of the Sierra Madre Oriental. You step on its golden sand, made by
tiny granules of rock originated by the millenarian decanting of the mountains, and you know you are in paradise. When walking on the sand while listening to the Pacific Ocean in its permanent caressing of land and throwing breeze to air, you know anything can happen. From watching a turtle approaching its original home to lay its eggs, to admiring the humpback whales slowly pass by, or the playful jumping of dolphins, or even the disoriented orcas, every day more common in this area, away from their cold fishing zones. It is all arriving at Mayto and forgetting the earthly world. You move to heaven, so you just walk and walk, breathe fresh air and enjoy what Mother Nature offers you, because nobody will disturb the peace over which you rejoice. You might as well fall asleep on the beach or on a hammock utterly sure that the hours will pass and nobody will upset your communion with God, just after tasting the two or three sips of raicilla the friendly locals have invited you to not stop tasting. Fishing poles? Who remembers them? If you come close to the sea, you get ravished with the emerald green that twinkles with sun light, which takes you to the land of fantasies and dreams. You forget about fishing to stare at the beauty of paradise in our days, so close to you and yet so far from the daily noise, the traffic and smog of buses, above all from the agitated rhythm of the city, from which you would like to run every time you come across a “bridge�
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