Seesick Issue One

A

A A R T

C R E A T I V E

V I S U A L

C O L L E C T I V E

P U B L I C A T I O N

S U R F

P H O T O

O F

S O R T S I N S P I R E

\\ DEDICATED TO //

// THE

WORLD’S CREATIVES \\

\\ CARRY ON //

EDITOR LETTER READ AND TAKE NOTES

Editor in Chief Austin Marvin Creative Director Matthew Snell Director of Photography Aaron Harriss

See Sick is a visual publication of sorts, operating as a platform for emerging artists, surfers, photographers, illustrators, and designers .

A

s aspiring artists See Sick believes art is a means of true expression of the inner self: For us, surfing is where it all began. The magazine is anchored in the surf culture, but is not, by any means, just a surf magazine. Although much of the material is surf related, it is the essence of the ability to express a personal passion and creative thinking for art, while presenting it in its natural form for others to view. See Sick magazine strives to be what we call ‘A Creative Collective:’ A group of aspiring individuals who find peace of mind creating, innovating, and inspiring while expressing the importance of finding truth in everything they do.

“A magazine for creative minds a like.”

We’d all like to get better at what we do, and that the most efficient way to do that is to crawl out of our many separate bunkers, stop giving each other suspicious looks, and share our best ideas, tools, and practices.

So that’s what we’ve come here to do.

F E AT U R E S PAGE 6

PAGE 32

VI XXXII

R AMBLINGS

YOUR DAILY DOSE OF EVERYTHING

INFINITE BLISS

Isle of Enchantment: Puerto Rico A GUIDE TO MAKE THAT DREAM TRIP AN AMAZING REALITY

PAGE 7

VII

IT GOES ON

LIFE IN A NUT SHELL

PAGE 8

VIII

LET IT FLOW

BOHEMIAN ARTIST DOCTORA QUINN FLOW AND BALANCE OF ART & MIND

PAGE 12

XII

DREDGE TO WEDGE

THE IMPACTS OF THE ST. AUGUSTINE DREDGING PROJECT ON THE ENVIRONMENT AND SURFING

PAGE 24

XXIV

GET DIRTY & MAKE SHIT HAPPEN

A FULL INTERVIEW AND ‘DAY IN THE LIFE’ OF LOCAL ST. AUGUSTINE SURFER/ SHAPER AUSTIN MARVIN (MLMC)

PAGE 52

LII

SESSIONS

The Other Inlet

NOT ONLY A BREEDING GROUND FOR SHARKS AS YOUNG TALENT EXPLODES OUT OF FLORIDA

// // RAMBLINGS

YOUR DAILY DOSE OF EVERYTHING from aaron harriss

THIS MONTHS Rx a list to remember, to remember ...

To look forward to success.

To see our destiny as a sunny place where we may not get what we think we want, but we are still happy.

//SSIRRAHNORAA

AARONHARRISS//

To see how things, even devastating things, work together to bring something better.

VI // 6

To be honest.

To be fearless, even when I am afraid.

To breath deep breaths as often as I can.

To centre myself in the moment and realize that things are not only okay, but that things are good.

To hope for spirit and to pray for the ability to find it in everything that I see.

To love fearlessly.

That ‘the only way out is through’.

That my beliefs are not based on other peoples’ certainties.

To believe that the world can be better and so can I. That I am not responsible for managing anyone’s feelings and beliefs but my own.

That I should nevertheless be as gentle as I can without compromising who I am.

To laugh, loudly and often.

That touch brings healing.

To live now, while I can.

\\SIDE EFFECTS// A slightly lifted spirit; a small sense of drive and ambition; the ability to break boundries and innovate.

If you don’t feel a rushing sense of greatness consult your green leafy friend

YEP!

BULLSH!T

// // IT GOES ON

I N SPI R AT I ONA L

When I stand before God at the end of my life, I would hope that I would not have a single bit of talent left, and could say, 'I used everything you gave me'.

KEEP THOSE W H E E L S TURNING

QUOTES:

// life in a nutshell //

Havelock Ellis

Life is a series of natural and spontaneous changes.

Don’t resist them - that only creates sorrow. Let reality be reality. Let things flow naturally forward in whatever way they like.

Lao Tzu

I don’t believe people are looking for the meaning of life as much as they are looking for the experience of being alive.

Joseph Campbell

While there’s life, there’s hope.

M a r c u s Tu l l i u s C i c e r o

You have succeeded in life when all you really want is only what you really need.

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams.

Live the life you have imagined.

All the art of living lies in a fine mingling of letting go and holding on.

Henry David Thoreau

Alice Roosevelt Longworth

Life is really simple, but we insist on making it complicated.

I have a simple philosophy: Fill what’s empty.

Empty what’s full. Scratch where it itches.

Confucius

M a r k Tw a i n

Remember when life’s path is steep to keep your mind even.

Horace

Don’t go around saying the world owes you a living.

The world owes you nothing. It was here first.

Most people have never learned that one of the main aims in life is to enjoy it.

Samuel Butler

As long as the world is turning and spinning, we’re gonna be dizzy and we’re gonna make mistakes.

Mel Brooks

Use your health, even to the point of wearing it out. That is what it is for. Spend all you have before you die; do not outlive yourself.

George Bernard Shaw

Vernon Howard The greatest discovery of my generation is that a human being can alter his life by altering his attitudes.

William James

In three words I can sum up everything I’ve learned about life : it goes on.

KEEPONKEEPINON//

Erma Bombeck

//NONIPEEKNOPEEK

H E L P I N G

Robert Frost

YEP!

BULLSH!T

7 \\ VII

FLOW // artwork : Heather Lauren Quinn

QUINN

DOCTORA

VIII // 8

LET IT

flow

balance between

art & mind

W / H E AT H E R L A U R E N Q U I N N

FLOW // artwork ( left & right) : Heather Lauren Quinn

My art is a daydream. I get lost in the process of painting and drawing; it is the only part of my life that has never had rules. Every person that sees my work has a different interpretation of the meaning and I like it that way.

Heather Quinn was born in California and grew up between San Diego and Orange Counties. Art became a part of his life at a very young age, after hours of play, he wo.uld recreate his experiences of the day by drawing them with crayons. Later doodling became Andy’s escape from the classroom; he dreamed of being on his skateboard, or at the beach surfing. After high-school he was accepted to art school and attempted to play by the rules, however, he felt trapped all over again. This time he was old enough to do things his way so he made the unconventional decision to leave school for good. After years of drawing freedom on paper, Andy had his first real taste and the truth is, he liked it.

DOCTORA

Soon after leaving art school, he took his college savings and started his first clothing company named after his newfound independence: “free.” His success was swift, the brand quickly pulled on talent such as Brad Gerlach and Donavan Frankenreiter. However, the popularity of the clothing was dwarfed by Andy’s youth & in-experience at running a business. “Free clothing” closed its doors in 1996 but served as a launching pad for Andy’s career as an artist which has been a dreamy one. He is designing a collection today for Billabong. His brand supplies beach wear to the thousands of cult followers who have remained loyal to Andy’s clothing since the 90’s. Wearing Andy’s clothing makes one feel like they are part of something. Some say “When I wear an Andy Davis t-shirt, I not only tell the

QUINN

9 \\ IX

world that I am free & and easy going but I also make a small statement that I, like Andy, stand for something . . . something simple and good.

Solo Exhibitions 2003| Andoland a Freebyrd Concoction The Surf Gallery - Laguna Beach, CA

2005| Dream On - Beams Store -Tokyo, Japan 2007| Summer Love -The Surf Gallery Laguna, CA 2007| Doctora Quinn Art Show - Mollusk Surf Shop - San Francisco, CA 2008| A Night at the Mollusk - San Francisco, CA 2009| Stay Casual, six-month pop up store solo exhibit - Ebb & Flow - Cardiff, CA

X // 10

DOCTORA

Billabong Ando & Friends Clothing Patagonia Northface Thomas Campbell The Seedling The Sprout The Present Movies Hydrodynamica Movie by Richard Kenvin Surfer Magazine Nalu Magazine Amsterdam Wetsuits Sanuk Sandals Josh Hall Surfboards On the Board Magazine Blue Magazine Captain Fin Joel Tudor Surfboards Free Clothing Byrd Clothing Toes On The Nose Roxy/Quicksilver Surfrider Foundation The Gap Vans Shoes Ruca Clothing Sima Thalia Surf Shop Mollusk Surf Shop TS Restaurants, owners of Kimo’s & Duke’s 2K by Gingham Beams T’s Japan Material Clothing Kane Garden Surfboards The Tyde, the band Mandala Surfboards Swami’s Japan

QUINN

FLOW // artwork : Heather Lauren Quinn

Andy’s mom, Jane Davis is a practicing artist in Santa Fe, NM and his brother Zack Davis, in brooklyn NY, is a master sculptor; art just runs in Andy’s blood. Davis currently lives in Encinitas, CA with his wife, Ashley and son Noah. He is a devoted surfer who spends his days at the beach, designing clothing, traveling and preparing for art shows around the world.

CLIENTS

FLOW // artwork : Heather Lauren Quinn

DOCTORA

QUINN

11 \\ XI

S D

W A

DREDGE I N W h a t

XII // 12

to

WEDGE

DREDGING PROJECT S A I N T

A U G U S T I N E ,

F L O R I D A

s o m e m a j o r o c e a n i c r e n o v a t i o n s s u r f i n g i n t h e O l d e s t C i t y .

DREDGE

WEDGE

d i d

f o r

D

VERDICT

MAYBE, PROBABLY, EH..YEA, BUT THE SURF HAS NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD

redging is the process of excavating or removing sediments from the bottom of lakes, rivers, estuaries, or marine (ocean) locations. Sediment excavation or dredging is conducted for multiple purposes. These purposes include navigation, mineral extraction (mining), construction activities (e.g., laying underwater pipeline), and the environmental cleanup of polluted sediments.

Dredging is generally conducted by floating construction equipment and is accomplished by mechanical, hydraulic, or hydrodynamic (agitation) processes. Mechanical dredges generally employ draglines, open or closed clam shell buckets, or an endless chain of buckets to excavate the sediment and place it in a container such as a barge or scow. The dredged sediment is then transported in the barge or scow for beneficial use at a location on land or in the water (e.g., construction material, fill or habitat enhancement), to a nearby disposal site, or in some cases, to an aquatic disposal site at a lake, river, estuary, or ocean.

Hydraulic pipeline dredges use a suction pipe connected to an excavation device (like a huge vacuum cleaner hose with a digger at its end) for removing the dredged sediment from the bottom. In the process, the removed sediment mixes with the overlying water to form the resultant dredged material. The sediment is then pumped hydraulically by a pipeline to a location intended for beneficial use (e.g., beach nourishment

[

D r e d g i n g f o r a n e n v i r o n m e n ta l cleanup can be very controversial

[

or construction fill), to an adjacent aquatic placement location, or to an upland placement facility for storage for later beneficial or commercial uses.

Contaminated sediments may be transported to offsite treatment or disposal facilities or to a contained aquatic disposal site. The nonaquatic disposal alternative for contaminated sediments is much more environmentally complex when plant, animal, air (volatile), and surface and groundwater (leachate) pathways for contaminants must be controlled.

Hydraulic dredging may also be accomplished by a self-propelled ocean-going dredging vessel (e.g., hopper dredges) that will store the sediment and entrained water in a large hopper for transport to an ocean disposal site, for beneficial-use placement in the near shore zone for beach nourishment, or for transport to a land-based containment facility.

A special-purpose self-propelled hydraulic dredge known as a side caster excavates the sediment (e.g., entrance channel sand) and immediately pumps the material to a location adjacent to the channel, but down drift of near shore natural prevailing currents.

The currents rapidly disperse the sediments down coast, beneficially adding to the normal coastal sand movement.

Hydrodynamic dredging (agitation dredging) is a process whereby the bottom sediment is physically

DREDGE

WEDGE

13 \\ XIII

Its just raw surfing. More than half those guys could not give two fucks who’s out in the water. They find a wave and shred the LIFE out of it, paddle back out, and do it again.

XIV // 14

DREDGE

WEDGE

TURNING HEADS : THE ESSENCE OF SURFING IN THE OLDEST CITY

DREDGE

WEDGE

15 \\ XV

Watching this guy surf is similar to watching the bulls run in Spain.

XVI // 16

DREDGE

WEDGE

GABE KLING DREDGE

WEDGE

17 \\ XVII

XVIII // 18

DREDGE

WEDGE

GABE

IN DIGS KLING

AT THE

Aug

u s ti

ne,

FL

ie r // P

N o rt

Gab er :

E

s u rf h //

DREDG S t.

li n e K

to pho g //

. : M

Sne

ll

19 \\ XIX

WEDGE

DREDGE

XX // 20

DREDGE

WEDGE

DREDGE

WEDGE

21 \\ XXI

N O RTH S I DE OF T HE P I ER S HO W I N G T H E LEF T S I D E O F I TS N E W S A N D B A R S .

SURFER UNKNOWN // PHOTO - M.SNELL // ST. AUGUSTINE, FL

XXII // 22

DREDGE

WEDGE

Everyone is stoked for everyone, regardless.

Someone pulls in or lets those fins loose, everyone is hootin and hollerin. It’s always a good time.

DREDGE

WEDGE

23 \\ XXIII

G E T

D I R T Y

&

MAKE SH!T HAPPEN Uh, yeah sure..umm this doesn’t have to be all formal and shit right?

NO WAY, WE’LL KEEP IT SIMPLE, JUST FOR A LITTLE PIECE IN THE MAG.

Fuck yeah I’m down man.

COOL, WELL START OFF BY TELLING US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF.

So we called up Austin Marvin, owner of MLMC (marvin limitied manufacturing comapy) out of Daytona, FL just to catch up with him and see how shit’s coming along.

I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN INTERESTED IN THINGS THAT HAVE A LIFE OF THEIR OWN.

I

t’s in my stubborn bones to build with my hands and learn the process that it takes to build something. Marvin Limited Manufacturing Company as a business is about bringing the emphasis back to the process of the product, rather than the profit. What drives and influences the company is not quite as easy to pinpoint, as I put my personal influences into my products. My influences change day to day even minute to minute. From the photography, the style in and out of the water, the craftsmanship, everything was better back then. Everything is done by hand. From surfboards to processing and printing film photography to burning screens and printing shirts and hats, every process, every step, done by hand. The goal is not about quantity but rather quality. Rather than focus on a profit, focus on a product. Products range from surfboards, alaias, paipos, hand planes, skate decks, screen printed t-shirts, hats, and photographic film prints.

YO IS THIS AUSTIN? Yeah this is Austin Marvin.

May I ask who’s calling?

HEY MAN, ITS MATT FROM SEESICK MAG. Yo it’s been a while man, everything going well on your end homie?

YEAH THANKS, BUT THE REASON I CALLED WAS TO SEE IF HAD SOME TIME TO DO SOME INTERVIEW SHIT.

// AUSTIN MARVIN \\

XXIV // 24

GET

DIRT Y

My name is Austin marvin...

Uhhh. As far as jobs go it would be owner of MLMC custom surfboard line. Where I shape, do all the lamination, sanding, and finish work. I also do photography under Marvin Photography. Full time student graduating this year. Uh. I Guess theres really not that much. //barking in the background//

IS THAT A DOG I HEAR? Yeah, Lola go lay down. I happen to be the pround owner of a stupid ass bulldog. //growling// Speak! //bark// Oh yeah, Speak! //bark louder// There you go.

SOUNDS LIKE A PRETTY DOPE DOG. Yeah, she’s fucking awesome.

HOW’S THE SHAPING GOING? It’s moving along. Got a shit load of boards to get done. Im actually in the shop now.

SO WHAT GOT YOU INTO SHAPING? I KNOW YOU RIDE, BUT WHAT CLICKED FOR YOU? Well when I get a new board from someone else or off the rack ya kind of got to figure out its quirks.

Like what you can do with it and what it cant do. Like what kid of wave it does, but when you make your own board you kind of already know what you want it to do. Just doing ½ of and inch here and like an 1/8 of an inch thicker here the board totally changes.

And it’s a totally different ride. //sanding//

DAMN, I CAN SEE HOW EASY IT IS TO GET INTO THAT. PARTICULARLY SOMEONE LIKE YOU CAN RIDE ANYTHING.

its potentinly down the road as far as keeping me sane and right now it keeps me grounded. I mean I know im not going to be able to make this a full time paying job right now.

I think that’s where I’m at now.

I’ve got atleast 10 years till that and thats if I kinda just keep plugging away at it. Maybe itll be a businees, but I dunno. You cant really be in it to make it a

business. Its passion and ambition that drives this vessel.

Well, that’s my rambling.

I LIKE THAT. AUSTIN, ITS BEEN A PLEASURE TO CATCH UP. WE’LL LET YOU GET BACK WORK. Thanks Matt, it’s been rad. You got to come down to Daytona and ride a few logs soon.

ILL DEFINITELY TAKE YOU UP ON THAT. TAKE CARE MAN. You too homie.

Haha, I wouldn’t go quite that far.

SO WHAT REALLY MOTIVATES YOU TO SHAPE? Well, I guess I see it as a neverending tale.

UH, COME AGAIN? Yeah, I feel how shaping is kinda like an art. I think its just like photography you can’t ever really master it. You can just kinda hone youre skills and just get beter and better and better.

SO WHAT’S NEXT? YOU’RE ALMOST DONE WITH SCHOOL. Well I’m still learning but, I see

GET

DIRT Y

25 \\ XXV

What drives and influences the company is not quite as easy to pinpoint.

It’ s pure love.

ITS IN MY STUBBORN BONES TO BUILD WITH MY HANDS..

ITS IN MY STUBBORN BONES TO BUILD WITH MY HANDS. .

XXVI // 26

GET

DIRT Y

ITS IN MY STUBBORN BONES TO BUILD WITH MY HANDS..

ITS IN MY STUBBORN BONES TO BUILD WITH MY HANDS..

GET

DIRT Y

27 \\ XXVII

Making shirts and shaping boards has never been so fun. photo : Aaron Harriss

DIRT Y

GET

XXVIII // 28

M

arvin Limited Mfg. Co. was started by Austin Marvin, home based on the East Coast of Florida, with beginnings in a small shed and since then into a full glass shop and studio. The core element of MLMC is hand made surfboards and photographic art, where the emphasis on traditional materials and hands on manufacturing, we create unique surfboards and art pieces that give a nod to the past generations.

Photo prints made with film that is hand processed and printed on archival paper, to various forms of printing from screen prints to wood block prints. Our surfboards are all 100% handmade. No machine shapes, therefore production numbers are limited. We also offer custom glasswork, in case you have the itch to shape, hand it off to us and we will take care of the rest. Everything we do is done with passion and detail.

What drives and influences the company is not quite as easy to pinpoint.

It’ s pure love.

GET

DIRT Y

29 \\ XXIX

CHAOS ITS ALL RELATIVE, IT MEANS NOTHING. I TS M E R E LY M Y F O R M U L A FOR CREATIVITY.

ORDER XXX // 30

GET

DIRT Y

GET

DIRT Y

31 \\ XXXI

Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

INFINITE BLISS

THE EVERLASTING BEAUTIES OF PUERTO RICO I S L E

o f

E N C H A N T M E N T

W

ITH ITS CRYSTALLINE BLUE WATER, GENTLE TRADE WINDS BLOWING OFFSHORE ON THE NORTHWEST COAST, PALM TREES SWAYING OVER WHITE SAND BEACHES, AND HUNDREDS OF REEFS, POINTS AND BEACHES, IT’S ALMOST SURPRISING THAT SURFING DIDN’T REALLY START IN PUERTO RICO UNTIL THE LATE ‘50S.

Local boys Jose Rodriguez, Guille Bermuda and Rafy Viella are credited as being the first to surf the north and northwest coasts; the first surf shop was opened in San Juan in 1960 by American surfer Gary Hoyt, and dozens of locals started taking to the waves around the city and on the northwest coast in the early part of the decade.

But it was the 1968 World Surfing Championships -- won by Fred Hemmings and Margo Godfrey -- that really put Puerto Rico on the surfing map.

Worldwide exposure -- right at a time that surfing was itself really expanding -- sent planeload

XXXII // 32

INFINITE

after planeload of (mainly) American surfers to PR’s wave-soaked shoreline, quickly earning it the title of the “Hawaii of the Atlantic”.

Indeed, the traditional wintertime Puerto Rico pilgrimage is still the first place many East Coasters get their first taste of powerful surf. (Other names for Puerto Rico include Borinquen, and La Isla del Encanto.) The first Puerto Rican surfer to make a name for himself was Jorge Machuca, who blew a few minds as a 14-year-old in the ‘68 World Champs. Edwin Santos, Alberto Licha, and Juan Ashton were well known Puerto Rico competitors through the ‘70s and ‘80s. Today, there are another dozen or so sponsored and/or internationally known surfers, including Pipe chargers Carlos Cabrero and Otto Flores, and world traveling competitors Brian Toth and Dylan Graves.

BLISS

INFINITE

BLISS

33 \\ XXXIII

LOCATION Puerto Rico, traditionally known as “Borinquen” to the native Taino Indians, or “La Isla Del Encanto” (Isle of Enchantment) to tourists, is located in the Central North Atlantic at 18°N latitude 67°W longitude.

GEOGRAPHY Using the Puerto Rico Trench (one of the ocean’s deepest points) as a catcher’s mitt, the island is a swell magnet for any bump in the North Atlantic. Put on the international surfing map by the 1968 World Championships, held in Rincón and won by Fred Hemmings, Puerto Rico has since had a growing flow of surf tourism as well as a burgeoning local surf industry.

W I N D O W of OPPORTUNITY October to March is prime time for surf in P.R. That said, September can be epic depending on tropical activity, and April and even May can sometimes deliver the goods.

Generally, cold fronts blow off the East Coast of the U.S. and their howling north and northwest winds blow over a large

XXXIV // 34

fetch of ocean pointed directly at Borinquen. By the time they reach the island’s north and northwest coasts these swells are either clean and glassy and best caught on the north coast, or accompanied by strong northeast trade winds and best taken advantage of on the island’s two west facing stretches of coast in Aguadilla and Rincón.

PURPOSE In the dead of winter, even Florida can be downright frigid, let alone areas north. Putting on that damp 5mm hooded wetsuit day after day can become a drag. Also, despite Puerto Rico’s location in the midst of dozens of island nations considered international destinations, Puerto Rico is part of the good ol’ US of A. The island uses the same currency as the rest of the states, and you don’t need a passport to gain entry. Likewise, you’ll find all the Stateside conveniences you’re accustomed to having at home, including fast-food chains and retailers like K-Mart and Walgreens.

Of course, you’ll also find an endless supply of Latin flavor and culture, which reminds you that you’re not on the mainland.

San

Juan

, Pu e rt o

R ic o

// is to c k

// R u th

P e te

INFINITE

DIRECTIONS

S H E LT E R

Well, it’s still America, dude, so no, you don’t need a passport or anything. (Though you should bring one in case you get the opportunity to travel to some neighboring Caribbean islands.) It’s a pretty quick flight from the East Coast and pretty far from California. If you’re on a full surf mission, ideally you should try to fly into Aguadilla Airport, on the northwest corner.

There is no shortage of places to stay on the island’s northwest coast from Isabela to Rincón. The best bet is to find someone who lives there and ask that person for referrals to other residents with rental properties. If you get dialed in, you can find places for as little as $50–$75 a night. If you’re a high roller and keen to stay on the island’s most consistent coast for surf, check out Villa Montaña (villamontana.com) at Shack Beach in Isabela. Want to be right on the water at Shacks? Check out Villa Tropical (villatropical.com) or Casa Azul Villas (casaazulvillas. com) for killer apartments with a view of the peak. Over in Aguadilla, El Faro Hotel is a good, affordable, centrally located option, as is La Cima Hotel and Suites (lacimahotel.com). Out in Rincón, accommodations also abound. Some of the best places are The Fisheye View Guest House (rinconview.com) with an amazing view of the lighthouse, Desecheo Island, Indicators, Maria’s, and Tres Palmas; Pools Beach Cabanas (poolsbeach.com) just across the street from Pools Beach and home to The Pool Bar, one of Rincón’s best hangouts; and Tropic Cabañas

M E A N S of T R A V E L Most major airports along the East Coast have nonstop flights to San Juan, and many have them straight into Aguadilla, which is smack dab in the middle of the most highly surfed coasts. From the West Coast there are nonstops to San Juan on American Airlines from LAX for about $700. Once you touch down you’ll need wheels, and it’s completely safe to just rent from Hertz, National, or Avis and head on your way. If you want to save a few bucks, check out Charlie Car Rentals (charliecars.com) for the best deals. If you plan to be around for more than a couple weeks, you might as well buy a used car and save yourself some cash. Check out clasificadosonline.com for a used beater.

rk in m

BLISS

G

R

U

B

There’s plenty of fast food, but if you can’t stomach that, you’ll be fine. In Isabela don’t miss Pedro’s Pescado, just down the road from Jobos, for fresh sushi to go on Friday and Saturday nights.

Right in Jobos, Happy Belly’s is a great place for a burger or some fresh fish overlooking the peak at this famous beach. In Aguadilla be sure to check out Cocina Creativa right on Route 110 and just outside the old Ramey Base’s Gate 5 for killer breakfast, lunch, dinner, coffee, and smoothies. In Rincon The Tamboo Tavern and The Calypso are classic surfer hangouts. If you’re looking for something a little more local, check out El Rincon Tropical, just south of town on Route 413.

Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

(tropicabanas.com) right across the street from Sandy Beach and Parking Lots.

H A Z A R D S Sure, cabrón: Sea urchins, sharp, shallow reef, jellyfish and strong currents are the most common threats; sharks are out there but most locals don’t pay ‘em any mind and there’s never been a shark attack on a surfer. There’s the annoying little “pichu-pichu”, like sea lice that pinches your skin and can cause a rash all over your body -- but most of the time, you’re too busy with the surf to pay attention to such trifling matters. Sticky fingers.

Keep a close eye on your things.

B E A U T Y

( Y E A H T H AT K I N D ) There’s a reason that Puerto Rico has taken home five Miss Universe titles—second only to the USA with seven. In a word, the women on this rock are hot. Aguadilla is home to a campus of the University of Puerto Rico where women outnumber men two to one.

Rincón traditionally attracts lots of cute lassies chasing surfers.

And San Juan? Well, let’s just say that when it comes to the ladies, most of the nuggets are here.

C R O W D S In a word: yes. P.R. is home to an ever-increasing population of wave riders. Most all surf spots in Puerto Rico have a cadre of local and expat surfers who are on it when conditions are good and/or on weekends and holidays. The only chance you’ll be surfing alone is if you find an out-of-the-way spot, of which there are many and some quite good. But many of the best and most accessible ones are spoken for. If you roll with someone who knows their way around, you may still get some waves to yourself.

INFINITE

BLISS

35 \\ XXXV

WINTER

SPRING

This is when surfers from all over the world (though mainly East Coasters) make their pilgrimage to the juice. November through February sees a near constant string of low-pressure systems off the Eastern Seaboard, most of which generate some kind of surf for PR -- some of it quite large, too.

This can be a time for the beloved vientos alisios (offshore winds).

It’s a time of transition, and while swells aren’t as bomber as wintertime, they can be reasonably consistent and fun, in the shoulder- to head-high zone with the occasional overhead swell, even into May.

PEAK SEASON

XXXVI // 36

STILL BREAKING

INFINITE

BLISS

Island of Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // all photo : M. Snell

SUMMER

F A L L

School and Colleges are out -- and so is the swell, usually. July-November is hurricane season, sure, but they’re pretty fickle through the dog days of summer, when the water temps reach 85 and air temps vary between the high 80s and low 100s. Most people are just searching for shade or an occasional wave from a passing South American Cold Front or tropical wave on the South Shore.

Time to get your quiver ready.

Steady North Atlantic storms start kicking into gear in late September; the super-deep Puerto Rican trench amplifies the resulting north swells, which brings consistent -- not giant -- surf to the North Shore of the Atlantic.

TRY AND CATCH ME

TOP OF THE WORLD

INFINITE

BLISS

37 \\ XXXVII

XXXVIII // 38

INFINITE

BLISS

SURFER’S BEACH

CRASH BOAT

GAS CHAMBERS

WILDERNESS

RAMEY

TABLE TOP

JOBOS

SECRET SPOT

MIDDLES

AQUADILLA

ISABELA

INFINITE

BLISS

39 \\ XXXIX

S

E

MARIA’S

INDICATORS

DOMES

TRES PALMAS

STEPS

PARKING LOTS SANDY BEACH POOLS SPANISH WALL

W

N

RINCON

AGUADA

SCHOOL YARDS

BRIDGES

Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

W I L D E R N E S S feeling LO ST i s nor mal he re .

Northern Puerto Rico // Spring 2011 // photo : M. Snell

W

ildo (as it’s commonly known) is a fairly wild place, both on land and in the water; many surfers have had that lost-in-the-woods feeling while attempting to hunt down a shifty, double overhead Wilderness wall without getting caught inside. When it’s small, it’s a bunch of scattered little peaks, with short, bowly lefts and slightly longer, more facey rights; when it’s really on, though, it’s a steamrolling right reef, perfect for carving with a bigger board -- which you’ll need just to get into the beasts with the 20-knot NE trades blowing side-offshore up the face as you’re blindly trying to drop in. The reef is also fairly broad and sweeping, and can (almost) hold the dozens of surfers that are out here on any day there’s swell. There’s a semi-channel at the south end of the reef; try not to get swept too far down on your way out.

XL // 40

INFINITE

BLISS

HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE - NW

BEST SIZE HEAD HIGH - 2X OVERHEAD

BEST WIND

E - NE TRADES N -SSE WINDS ARE ONSHORE

PERFECT-O-METER 6

BOTTOM REEF

ABILITY LEVEL BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR QUIVER

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PRIME PARKING LONG BUMBPY ENTRANCE DONT GET STUCK

CROWD FACTOR SURE.

LOCAL VIBE

NOT BAD IT IS SPREAD OUT

BICEP BURN 8

POO PATROL 2

Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach)

HAZARDS

SWEEPING CURRENTS

INFINITE

Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay)

BLISS

Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

41 \\ XLI

Puerto Rico // Canon EOS 1D mark 11N // photo : Stafford

J

O

B

C O N S I S T E N C Y

a t

O

i t s

S

b e s t .

Puerto Rico // parapentepr.com // Jobos Beach Isabela

J

obos is a sweet Puerto Rican fruit with a little almond-like nut inside. The main wave breaks right next to the small rock headland at the east end of the beach and pinwheels into the broad, sandy bay. It actually looks kinda like a pointbreak ‘cause it’s so down-the-line and racy, but like almost every other wave in Puerto Rico, it’s really a reefbreak. The Locals take off as close to the rock as possible, making it difficult for guys like you and me to actually get a wave. But fortunately, if you’re patient and show respect -- and stay on your lineups -- you won’t be disappointed. Luckily, Jobos also happens to be one of PR’s most consistently rideable waves, as it picks up all manner of north swell and is somewhat protected from the incessant trade winds by the rock headland. There’s also a left that breaks in the middle of the beach and assorted other scattered mediocre peaks as you head west down the beach.

XLII // 42

INFINITE

BLISS

HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE

BEST SIZE HEAD HIGH - 2FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND SOUTH

PERFECT-O-METER 7

BOTTOM REEF, URCHINS AND SAND

ABILITY LEVEL BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR FAVORITE SHORTY

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR YEP.

LOCAL VIBE

FAIRLY HEAVY SHOW RESPECT, YOU’LL BE FINE

BICEP BURN 4

POO PATROL Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay)

2

HAZARDS

HIT BOTTOM AND END UP WITH URCHINS SPINES AND SOME BRIGHT RED GRAZES FROM SHARP LAVA REEF

INFINITE

BLISS

Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

43 \\ XLIII

Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

M

P R ’ s

I

D

D

b a c k d o o r

L

y o u

E

S

s a y .

Northern Puerto Rico // Flickr.com // 74705921

I

f Tres Palmas is PR’s Sunset Beach, then Middles is surely its Backdoor -- it’s a shallow, bowly, close-to-shore, brilliant blue right tube. Take off behind the crease, stay high, keep your eyes open, and you’re in for one of Puerto Rico’s best and most coveted views. The reef itself is an irregular coral/rock shelf that juts out from the golden sand beach; any kind of north swell hits the thing straight on, and depending on direction, can bend into a short intense bowl or a longer, slightly less intense wall. The rock at the east end of the beach blocks the trades for a few moments -- and can build up a nice little sandbar in its lee. Even when it’s under head-high it can be shifty, steep, and fast. Don’t be surprised to see PR’s hottest pros, Brian Toth or Dylan Graves, out there ripping -- they both live in nearby Jobos.

XLIV // 34

INFINITE

BLISS

HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE

BEST SIZE HEAD HIGH - 2X OVERHEAD +

BEST WIND SOUTH

PERFECT-O-METER 7

BOTTOM REEF

ABILITY LEVEL INTERMEDIATE - PSYCHO

BRING YOUR FAVORITE GREEN ROOM BOARD

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR

YEP. ONE OF THE MOST PHOTOGRAPHED WAVES

LOCAL VIBE

PERFECT SWELL - INTENSE AVERAGE SWELL - MELLOW

BICEP BURN 7

POO PATROL Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay)

2

HAZARDS

SHALLOW, IRREGULAR REEF, BREAKS CLOSE TO SHORE

INFINITE

BLISS

Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

35 \\ XLV

Northern Puerto Rico // Rincon.org // Beaches & Attractions

D A

O

p l a c e

f o r

M

h u g e

E

S

A I R S .

Northern Puerto Rico // Flickr.com // photo : Boricua419000

B

ased solely on its name, Domes is probably the easiest surf spot in the world to find. You can’t miss the giant cement (yes, cement) dome as you head down the hill into Rincon. The dome itself used to house a nuclear power plant with the ironic acronym BONUS, which was optimistically opened in the late ‘60s and closed by the early ‘70s. Duh. So much for building a nuclear power plant next to giant waves in an area that’s had tsunamis and about 200 (small) earthquakes per year. There’s talk about making it a museum. It’s the first sorta-protected spot as you head around the corner at Rincon, and as it’s the furthest one out, it’ll pick up some trade wind swell and is always bigger than the other spots as you head south. The main bummer is that it doesn’t really handle size too well, generally, due to the fact that it’s in a small bay; the water flushes in and around and creates an undesirable “toilet bowl” effect. The wave itself is a sectiony right wall (with a shorter left) that can throw the occasional tube; there are a couple different takeoff spots -- inside and outside -- depending on the swell, which spreads the crowds out a bit. .

XLVI // 36

INFINITE

BLISS

HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE LOW

BEST SWELL DIRECTION NE

BEST SIZE SHOULDER HIGH - FEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND SE

PERFECT-O-METER 4

BOTTOM REEF

ABILITY LEVEL BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR FAVORITE SHORTY

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING NOVEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

LOOK FOR THE...UH...DOME PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR SERIOUS SHIT

LOCAL VIBE AND YEP.

BICEP BURN 7

POO PATROL 4 Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay) Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

INFINITE

BLISS

47 \\ XLVII

Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

C R A S H

B O A T

Ag uadilla’s SU N K E N trea sure .

Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

Y

et another super fickle-yet-magical wave. Crash Boat is a happy accident, as they say: a sand-bottomed right created by rusting navy docks that halfway sank into the sand and ended up creating a killer bank. The wave comes in from pretty deep water and bends in and rolls all the way into shore, looking like a Latin version of Kirra with more bodyboarders or something. It’s named after Air Force rescue boats that used to be kept here and is now a super popular beach area for Aguadilla residents and surfers alike.

XLVIII // 48

INFINITE

BLISS

HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION WEST - NW

BEST SIZE

FEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND ANY

PERFECT-O-METER 8

BOTTOM SAND

ABILITY LEVEL INTERMEDIATE TO ADVANCED

BRING YOUR FAVORITE SHORTY OR LOG

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR SURE

LOCAL VIBE OH YEAH.

BICEP BURN 4

POO PATROL 4 Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay) Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

INFINITE

BLISS

49 \\ XLIX

Northern Puerto Rico // Surfline.com // Photo : Steve Fitzpatrick

GAS CHAMBERS Radical

R IGHT S

ove r

rock s .

Northern Puerto Rico // goseepr.com // gas chambers

A

nother super fickle, almost mythical wave -- inarguably, PR’s best right tube.

It’s super radical, breaking right in front the sharp and hungry cliff. Ideally, you want the first wave of set, ‘cause the backwash goes under the subsequent waves and creates giant warbly barrels over the super hard-packed sand that covers a rocky bottom. Imagine if the dredging a-frames at Puerto Econdido turned into a closeto-shore right pointbreak. Tons of pros and lots of photographers here when it’s on, and Alberto Licha, ruler of the peak and a permanent fixture, will be there before you and stay long after you’re gone, which means you’ve got a snowball’s chance in hell of getting a wave.

Super protected although SW through WNW winds are onshore; NW winds are sideshore.

L // 50

INFINITE

BLISS

HOW IT WORKS

A GLORIFIED BREAKDOWN BEST TIDE ANY

BEST SWELL DIRECTION WEST - NW

BEST SIZE FEW FT OVERHEAD

BEST WIND

SUPER PROTECTED S - SW WINDS ONSHORE NW WINDS SIDESHORE

PERFECT-O-METER 8

BOTTOM

HARD PACKED SAND OVER REEF

ABILITY LEVEL INTERMEDIATE - PSYCHO

BRING YOUR FAVORITE GREEN ROOM BOARD

BEST SEASON

WINTER - SPRING SEPTEMBER -MARCH

ACCESS

PARK RIGHT THERE

CROWD FACTOR SURE.

LOCAL VIBE YEP

BICEP BURN 6

POO PATROL 4

HAZARDS

BLIND SPOT BAD BACKWASH WHEN INSIDE TOP-BOTTOM BARREL

INFINITE

BLISS

Perfect-O-Meter (1=Lake Erie; 10=Jeffreys Bay) Bicep Burn (1=1ft Waikiki; 10=15ft Ocean Beach) Poo Patrol (1=clean; 10=turds in the lineup)

51 \\ LI

SESSIONS

THE OTHER INLET WHITE SANDY BACKWOODS SESSIONS

LII // 52

NEW SMYRNA

FLORIDA HAS A COAST THAT BREEDS YOUNG TALENT Like the Coolie Kids or Pipeline Posse or any other homegrown surf clique, New Smyrna Beach surfers regularly spray-paint the acronym on their boards, indulge inside jokes about outsiders, and defend patronizing aliases like “the other Inlet” and “Porno Beach” with a feeding frenzy of world-class surfing talent.

Unknown surfer takes a hack of the top, just wating for a good insider.

53 \\ LIII

NEW SMYRNA INLET // white sandy backwoods

I

f you’ve ever been to a contest, tradeshow, or freesurfing hotspot in Florida, you’ve probably seen the “NBK” graffiti. It stands for one of two things: “New Burna Konnection” or “No Body Knows.”

Like the Coolie Kids or Pipeline Posse or any other homegrown surf clique, New Smyrna Beach surfers regularly spray-paint the acronym on their boards, indulge inside jokes about outsiders, and defend patronizing aliases like “the other Inlet” and “Porno Beach” with a feeding frenzy of world-class surfing talent. In the last few years, New Smyrna Beach has overtaken Sebastian Inlet as the East Coast’s hottest performance cauldron, but it took a while for people to

NOW YOU KNOW. Days of rideable surf a year: 300 Length of coastline in city limits: 13 Speed limit on beach: 10mph Beach driving access fee: $5 Shark attacks in new smyrna in 2008: 32 Shark attacks nationwide in 2008: 41 Extension to ponce inlet south jetty: 1000 Local surfers supporting extension: 0

notice. Maintaining a heavy presence here since the ‘90s, …Lost mocked the surfing world’s ignorance about what this hardcore surf town was holding with their “NoBody Knows, Nobody Cares” ads, even granting NSB a section in every movie since 1998’s Lost Across America.

And make no mistake – this quaint backwoods Southern retreat is a surf town before anything else.

In fact, it could be argued that if not for waveriding, this 13-mile-long patch of white-sand Volusia County real estate might be just another untapped fishing hole with a little more lightning… and a lot more sharks.

New Smyrna Inlet is the only real surfbreak in town,

but that’s okay because it’s the most consistent spot along the Sunshine State’s 1200 plus miles of surfable coastline – if not the entire East Coast.

On a good day, there’s no better set-up for a nimble air guy with a lot of back-foot tweak than here: triangular rampage galore. Feathery liplines, steep transitions, reforming wedges, and the odd suck-up tube collide and disperse like a saltwater Burnside.

Even if it gets any bigger, you’re probably gonna end up driving a half-hour north over the bridge to Ponce Inlet, which turns those odd longer-interval south swells into a legitimate righthand pointbreak thrill.

NEW SMYRNA BEACH IS ARGUABLY THE EAST COAST’S MOST CONSISTENT WAVE.

S

o a recent public meeting set the New Smyrna Beach surfing community ablaze with rumors that an extension of Ponce Inlet’s south jetty is looming and bound to kill the surf.

The reality is that proponents are making a last-ditch effort to find funding for the project before a deadline that would require it go through the federal reauthorization process and a lengthy and politically competitive gauntlet of a process called the Water Resources Development Act (WRDA).

More than five years ago, New Smyrna locals and the Surfrider Foundation got wind of plans to build a 1000-foot dogleg jetty off the southeast tip of Ponce Inlet’s south jetty.

Joe Nolin, Manager of the Ponce de Leon Port Authority, explained that the goal of the project has always been to move the channel away from the north jetty, to make the inlet safer to navigate.

“We want to move the channel which is now hard up against the north jetty, into the middle of the inlet,” Nolin said. “That will also flatten the tidal bore that creates violent standing waves on the outgoing tide,

made worse by the trade winds.”

Because of its geographical location at the south end of the South Atlantic Bite, and because of Cape Kennedy’s influence, sand “backpassing” from south to north occurs, when along most of Florida’s East Coast the movement of sand is mostly north-tosouth. The backpassing causes shoaling in the inlet, and engineers hope that the jetty extension will stop the northward flow of sand into the inlet and keep more sand on the south-side beach. (However, on the right swell perfect waves spin along inside the inlet.)

“You can’t put a thousand feet of rocks into a unique configuration of bars and not have an effect on the waves they produce.”

-- Longtime NSB local Randy Richenberg Unfortunately, the project, as it was originally designed, would have blocked the surf from reaching New Smyrna Beach sandbars, which

provide more than 300 surfing days a year for local and visiting surfers, and generate more than $6 million -- according to a four-year-old economic impact study -- in the community.

Michael Walther, a coastal engineer with Coastal Tech Corp and former Chair of the National Surfrider Foundation, along with local shaper Randy Richenberg, reached out to Volusia County on behalf of the surfing community.

They noted that neither the U.S. Army Corps of Engineer’s project design nor its economic impact analysis factored in effects of the project on surfing or the local economy. The County and the Corps listened, and hired Taylor Engineering to come up with alternative designs, including one that would extend the jetty northeast, keeping it in the existing northeast swell shadow caused by Ponce Inlet’s

SO MUCH TALENT This place is not only a surf mecca, but also a frenzy for tiny bikinis and beautiful babes. The proofs in the picture. (left)

It’s as if this place will never stop growing.

Surfing is a huge piece of this town.

NOW YOU KNOW. Days of rideable surf a year: 300 Length of coastline in city limits: 13 Speed limit on beach: 10mph Beach driving access fee: $5 Shark attacks in new smyrna in 2008: 32 Shark attacks nationwide in 2008: 41 Extension to ponce inlet south jetty: 1000 Local surfers supporting extension: 0

much longer north jetty.

The models showed that this configuration would have less impact on the surf at New Smyrna Beach, and move the channel to the center of the inlet.

“Going with that design was a no-brainer,” said Nolin, who grew up in New Smyrna and said he understands full well what surfing means to that community.

But there was never sufficient funding, especially on the local level, so the project never proceeded. Leaders in the New Smyrna surfing community quietly hoped that it would just go away, and it likely will.

Granite is the only rock that will last in such rough environment, but it is now so expensive that the project costs have escalated from $7 million to $17 million. Unless the federal government ponies up, and the local costshare costs can be met, the

project is dead in the water.

“We may be right back at square one,” said Nolin.

Again, local surfers won’t be too upset.

“You can’t put a thousand feet of rocks into a unique configuration of bars and not have an effect on the waves they produce,” said Richenberg.

And Nolin said that engineers expect the beach immediately south of the south jetty to grow seaward several hundred feet.

While that may be good for nesting sea turtles and beach driving, it is unknown how such accretion would affect surf near the jetty.

Richenberg and fellow local Greg Arnette both pointed out that given the current state of the economy, it doesn’t make much sense to spend that kind of money on a project that may not succeed and that may damage a reliable and growing economic engine -- surfing.

“If there’s money to spend, shouldn’t we be cleaning up the estuaries or investing in artificial reefs to benefit the fishing industry?” asked Arnette.

DEEP IN THE CAVES

EVAN GEISELMAN

BIRTH DATE: August 31st, 1993 BIRTH PLACE: New Smyrna Beach, Florida RESIDES: San Clemente , California HEIGHT: 5’11” WEIGHT: 150 lbs.

EVAN GEISELMAN Finding some shade at the inlet

‘Surfing has evolved.

It’s all about the huge radical aerial rotations now’ -Evan G.

EAST COAST SURFING

Younger brother of Nils Schweizer, Noah, is proof the inlet breeds young talent.

Its a watering hole.

NOAH SCHWEIZER Showing off his roundhouse BIRTH DATE: October 1995 BIRTH PLACE: New Smyrna Beach, Florida RESIDES: New Smyrna Beach, Florida HEIGHT: 5’1” WEIGHT: 87 lbs.

LXVI // 66

FOREVER

PRESENT

SEESICK

ISSUE ONE VOLUME ONE Design Matthew Snell Artwork Matthew Snell Contributing Photographers Aaron Harriss Austin Marvin Victoria Hardina Proofreading Dalton Langille Chase Bennett Marketing Austin Marvin Distribution Austin Marvin Editor in Chief Austin Marvin Creative Director Matthew Snell Director of Photography Aaron Harriss

Online Jim McNeil Advertising Eduardo Rodriguez Content Manager Matthew Snell Guest Editor Heather Quinn Cover Aaron Harriss

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FOREVER

PRESENT

67 \\ LXVII

\\ SPECAIL THANKS //

// THE

WORLD’S YOUTH \\

\\ DREAM ON //

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