A Call to the Italian Table by Jenna Lo Bianco
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have pondered on how Italians understand and accept a number of socio-cultural norms when they are called to the table. Sometimes as part of a traditional celebration or ritual observance (as, say, with the passing of the seasons, or the end of Lent in the Christian calendar), but more often than not as an occasion to just get together with family and friends. Whatever the case may be, two concepts come to mind: the gathering of people (riunirsi or incontrarsi), and the gathering of produce (raccogliere). It is obvious that the two concepts are intimately connected given that food is often the main reason for why we gather. But to find out what it takes to be a good Italian host I turned to chef Kara Mallia, who has extensive professional experience in private and commercial kitchens in Italy. Kara immediately pointed out that there is a big difference between hosting in a
Segmento Issue XXIII • June-August 2021
commercial setting, such as a restaurant or catered event, and hosting in a domestic environment. Hosting a lunch or dinner in the privacy of your own home can be formal and have an element of ritual, as in a commercial setting, but the boundary between the dining table and the kitchen is done away with, both spatially and psychologically. «It’s about being present, guests socialise, drink and engage in discussion with a host who is most often also the cook,» Kara explained. Which means that both the kitchen space and the dining space are shared between host and guests and is expressive of their intimacy. Enjoying the company of others while in the kitchen only heightens the conviviality of the occasion - just imagine you and your guests nibbling on crostini with a glass of wine in hand, and chatting while waiting for the water to boil to cook pasta. Food is a vehicle for imparting love - love for those gathered - and when steeped
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