A Call to the Italian Table

by Jenna Lo Bianco

Ihave pondered on how Italians understand and accept a number of socio-cultural norms when they are called to the table. Sometimes as part of a traditional celebration or ritual observance (as, say, with the passing of the seasons, or the end of Lent in the Christian calendar), but more often than not as an occasion to just get together with family and friends. Whatever the case may be, two concepts come to mind: the gathering of people (riunirsi or incontrarsi), and the gathering of produce (raccogliere). It is obvious that the two concepts are intimately connected given that food is often the main reason for why we gather. But to find out what it takes to be a good Italian host I turned to chef Kara Mallia, who has extensive professional experience in private and commercial kitchens in Italy. Kara immediately pointed out that there is a big difference between hosting in a commercial setting, such as a restaurant or catered event, and hosting in a domestic environment. Hosting a lunch or dinner in the privacy of your own home can be formal and have an element of ritual, as in a commercial setting, but the boundary between the dining table and the kitchen is done away with, both spatially and psychologically. «It’s about being present, guests socialise, drink and engage in discussion with a host who is most often also the cook,» Kara explained. Which means that both the kitchen space and the dining space are shared between host and guests and is expressive of their intimacy. Enjoying the company of others while in the kitchen only heightens the conviviality of the occasion - just imagine you and your guests nibbling on crostini with a glass of wine in hand, and chatting while waiting for the water to boil to cook pasta. Food is a vehicle for imparting love - love for those gathered - and when steeped

in tradition the food is engrained with memories. When it comes to family recipes that Italians hold dear to their hearts - and palettes - it’s of no wonder why they find it difficult to be open to change. «Italian recipes passed down from generation to generation rarely change if ever. Nor do our expectations of how they will taste, smell, and the emotions they may evoke,» said Kara. But Kara has been known to be playful with the plating of traditional family dishes. «The recipe never changes,» she said, «just how it is presented.» Although Kara has a strong foundation in hearty Tuscan cuisine, her approach to Italian food has been described as “delicate” and “feminine”. She takes big flavours and presents them with refreshingly graceful touches, such as using edible flowers and sprigs of rosemary. She also serves meals on vintage crockery for a rustic touch, but always lets the food speak for itself. Given the abundance of Italian foods at our disposal in Australia, Kara invites you to follow her special Tuscan-styled menu to enjoy with friends and loved ones. It’s a winter menu, and one that allows you to be “present with your guests”. While good food and a host’s engaging nature are typical of an Italian meal, Kara has a closing reflection to share - the décor and the ambience of the dining area are also important. Given that winter is upon us, she suggests that the tone of the dining space would do well with shades of amber, green and brown to reflect the earthy, rustic nature of Tuscan cuisine. Though not “traditional”, Kara likes to dress her dining spaces with up-cycled bottles of wine, glass vessels, candles, olive branches and wild flowers, all to help set the scene for a hearty meal. Why not draw upon these pearls of wisdom and gather Italian-style this winter? Be guided by Kara’s generous spirit and genuine Italian hospitality, and, above all, a love of good food.

n aNtIpastI A generous tagliere platter to share, with an abundance of cured meats, rustic wheels of cheese, honey and marmellata, pickled vegetables and olives A selection of crostini, slices of crusty bread topped with fegatini, peperonata, mushroom puree and olive puree Panzerotti (fried pizza dough balls) served with stracchino and prosciutto w pRImo Tordelli Versiliesi, stuffed with mortadella, pork and beef mince, swiss chard, soaked bread, egg, parmigiano and pecorino, served in a traditional ragù seCoNdo Rosticiana, slow cooked pork ribs, cooked in white wine, garlic, rosemary, fennel seeds n n n CoNtoRNI Crispy roast potatoes, wilted seasonal greens dolCe Crostata made with seasonal fruit or homemade marmellata, served with prosecco Followed by caffé and a digestif (Kara suggests Amaro del Capo for its warmth after a comforting meal)

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