chronora magazine Nยบ01
THE RALPH LAUREN AUTOMOTIVE WATCH STAINLESS STEEL 45MM MODEL. ELM BURLWOOD DIAL. SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK. MANUAL WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. 156 COMPONENTS, 45-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE.
RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM
publisher
Rima Nasser
City News Privilege on behalf of CHRONORA editor in chief
Zeina Annan
managing editor
Shirine Saad director
Ziad Annan art director
Samantha Maatouk graphic design
Genia Kodash
Get ready to be inspired and enthralled as you turn the pages of our new magazine. Amongst articles about art, travel and theatre, you will discover the brands that have stood for innovative watchmaking and breathtaking jewellery for several generations. As fine timepieces can be quite time-consuming to choose, we have created this magazine as a guide to our favourite customers. Having a sophisticated showroom with a wide selection of fine timepieces and glittering jewellery, with dedicated sales-advisors is all fine, but gathering
a sense of each manufacture’s signature style, which is as unique as a person’s DNA, can be daunting, hence this tool for your pleasure. This first issue is a celebration of the creative genius and savoir-faire of the master craftsmen behind some of the world’s greatest brands. It is with great pleasure that I invite you to look through this inspirational magazine, as if it were a toy catalogue for adults. I hope that you will enjoy our treasure trove on the eve of this festive season of magic, which we would be pleased to present to you in person at one of our showrooms.
printer
RAIDY | www.raidy.com contributors
ziad jihad annan
Dan Bratman Karah Byrns Miriam Dunn Louis Parks Yasmina Nysten advertising
sales@citynewsme.net t: +961 3 852 899
I would like to express my heart-felt thanks to Mrs. Rima Nasser and her team for their exceptional work and diligence in creating this magazine, as well as to the Chronora team for their fervour and dedication, which are apparent throughout this publication.
16 36 62 82
10
chronora
20 50 66 96
25 56 72 98
The Mikimoto Debutante Set 2011. Akoya Cultured Pearls on 18k White Gold with Diamonds.
THE ORIGINATOR OF CULTURED PEARLS SINCE 1893
179 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON
020 7399 9860
179 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON
CLIENT: Mikimoto MIK0615_285x220_Tatler
OPERATOR: Mark PROOF LEVEL: 1st SPEC: ISO39L 300
Tatler
DATE: 10.8.11, 11:47 AM
SOFTWARE: CS5
COLOUR: 4 Colour
TYPE AREA: -
INSERTION: -
TRIM SIZE: 285 x 220 mm
REPEAT: -
BLEED SIZE: 295 x 230 mm
COL SIZE: -
Hangar Seven - London - Macclesfield - T: 0845 6255 747 - www.hangarseven.co.uk
S H O P O N L I N E A T M I K I MOTO . C O . U K
020 7399 9860
MIKIMOTO.CO.UK
15 luxury news / 16 interview with alissar caracalla 20 the glamourous life / 25 the pearl in the crown / 28 interview with jyad murr
31 the dream wishlist / 36 a history of time / 41 love at first sight 50 modern elegance / 56 ‘so we beat on…’
62 nature, refined / 66 interview with maya zbib / 72 myths & beauty / 78 manly delights
82 winter luxuries / 86 inspirations / 96 'not so' jet setting it in europe / 98 chronora atelier
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
VISIONS
81
Yasmina Nysten
CONTRIBUTORS
Dan Bratman
Louis F. Parks
Miriam Dunn
is a writer/horse trainer/ filmmaker living in Brooklyn, New York. After more than 30 years as a professional show jumper, Dan went into semi-retirement from the horses to write journalism, fiction and film. His work with director Mark Vicente on the documentary “Incendiar el Corazon” about the violence in Mexico is in post-production and soon to be released. Dan is nearing completion of his first book, Ride To Live, Live To Ride, a book about his experience with horses and is proud of the fact he has never had to wear a suit to work.
first came to Beirut in 2007 to study Middle Eastern Politics but stayed for love. Soon after arrival, he was married and plans to stay for the long haul. Since his expatriation, he has written on topics as diverse as Men’s fashion, the U.S. window and door industry and Egypt’s digital revolution. But his favorite assignment to date has been when he was sent to Valencia, Spain to test drive an Aston Martin. A bit of a seeker of thrills, in his time away from the writing desk Louis enjoys skydiving, flying (he holds a PPL license) and shooting. When not involved in any of these things, his favorite pastime is procrastination.
began her journalistic life on a news team radio in Malta in 1994 but turned to print in 1997 on the daily newspaper, The People. Soon Miriam rose to the rank of Deputy Editor of Malta Today. But Beirut called with its sirens song and she came to Lebanon in 2002 becoming managing editor of The Guide. Then, called by a different song, Miriam moved back to her native UK and raised a beautiful family. With children now grown and nappies in her past, she has returned to the power of the pen and is enjoying the experience very much, thank you.
is a painter, writer and photographer. From New York to Qatar she has shown her photography, illustration and painting. Born and raised in Helsinki, she has lived in Cannes, Beirut and Brooklyn. After a Bachelors degree from ALBA University, Beirut, she is currenttly earning her Master’s from the acclaimed Pratt Institute in Brooklyn. In her spare time, Yasmina has been known to trip the lights fantastic and ride her hot pink motorcycle around the hood.
WINTER 2011
13
daily pleasures • Treat yourself to a rejuvenating weekend at the luxury St Moritz High Alpine Spa in Switzerland • Book a ticket to Paris. Stroll the Seine docks at sunset • Let the stress ebb away with a Serendipity Spa Indian head massage at the Seaham Hall luxury boutique hotel in County Durham • Window shop along Rome’s luxury Via Veneto • Book theater tickets for The Nutcracker Ballet at the 02 Arena in London • Indulge in the on-trend nail colors from Christian Dior’s Blue Tie collection • Book a four-night break at the Ritz-Carlton Golf and Spa Resort in Jamaica • Book a consultation with hairstylist to the stars Garren at his atrium in the Sherry-Netherland Hotel in New York • Have a do-nothing day and simply relax! • Get together with old friends and catch up on the latest gossip • Boost your immune system with a delicious basketful of luxurious fruits like blueberries, blackberries, damsons and fresh figs • Book an extra-special facial at the UMO in Beverley Hills, which uses 24-carat gold combined with innovative Japanese Gamma PGA/Nano Mist technology • Taste chocolate as it really should be eaten at La Maison des Maitres Chocolatiers Belges in Brussels • Snap up a stunning party dress from Karl Lagerfeld • Book a makeup consultation at Maison Guerlain Boutique on Avenue des Champs Elysees • Invite your friends for a luxuriant brunch party with lots of champagne
14
LUXURY
NEWS
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
luxury on the line… for you.
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
pure sound
Rumored to come out by the end of the year, Porsche design introduces the P’9981 BlackBerry. Its stainless steel casing and individually sculpted keyboard whisper in your ear of an understated style. But under the hood is a powerful machine. Specs include 1.2GHz processor, HD video recording capabilities, 8GB of onboard memory, Liquid Graphics technology. And its slim shape fits easily into the breast pocket of your tux.
Venitian luthier Di Donato, long known for their beautifully crafted stringed instruments, introduces an aluminum-designed electric guitar. Its unique shape is built to distribute the vibrations of the wood neck and create its own distinct sound. Di Donato has built its own hand wound pickups and hand polishes each fret on the neck. With each strum it emits the sound of luxury.
the high life
oriental dreams
dinner time?
Ever thought of the elegance of penthouse living and the beauty of living close to nature? Now you can combine your penthouse and country home with the Mirrorcube. Designed by Tham & Videgård of Sweden, this luxury tree house is made of lightweight aluminum to maximize strength to weight ratios and its exterior has a mirrored finish. The reflective exterior blends in perfectly with the environment, allowing one to see the forest through the trees.
New luxury hotels continue to crop up around the world. Marbled lobbies, chandeliers raining crystal are a dime a dozen. But, once in a while, a new hotel stands out. One such hotel is the Kempinski Nile Hotel in Cairo. Located right on the east bank of the fabled Nile itself, the Kempinski is a beautiful five star boutique hotel. But perhaps what separates it from the pack is that, upon request, a guest can have his own 24hour on call personal butler. Thank you Jeeves.
Recently touted as the best restaurant in the world, renowned chef Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner is the toughest table in town to reserve. Stationed in London’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this fare is not for the faint of food. Steeped in old English traditions from the 14th to the 19th centuries, some items on the menu include powdered duck legs and chicken “oysters” served with bone marrow and horseradish cream. To finish, Chef Heston offers bacon and egg ice cream. Good luck!
WINTER 2011
15
14
Choreographer Alissar Caracalla
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
Caracalla Dance Theater’s “Two Thousand and One Nights”
Steps in
time words by helen assaf
espite her eternally hectic schedule, Alissar Caracalla has never worn a watch. That is, until a few months ago when she changed a habit of a lifetime and found the timepiece she calls “the one”. The dancer, choreographer and businesswoman was visiting the Beirut Rolex boutique to get her brother’s watch fixed when her eyes aligned on the Oyster Perpetual, 36mm, pink roman with Diamonds. “I said, that’s it, that’s the watch,” Caracalla recalls. She was conquered by the watch’s elegance and harmony of colors; it is subtle yet makes a statement. “That’s how I am,” she says,
laughing. “I wouldn’t be able to describe myself but I did see myself in this watch.” Born to Lebanese parents, Caracalla grew up in the UK from the age of two, later moving to the US aged 17 for ten years. Despite saying home is still the feeling she gets when the airplane lands in London, she also says she “belongs” in Beirut. “This is not home, this is chaos,” she says of the city in which she has lived now for the past nine years. “There is no concept of time. You wake up and go with the flow, you have to beat yourself into discipline,” she says. Caracalla returned to WINTER 2011
17
18
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TANC E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
V I S I ON S
Lebanon because she felt the country was in need of more arts and culture and to carry on the work begun by her father AbdulHalim Caracalla. “Forty years ago he started this company,” she says, “and I felt that I was responsible, not by duty, but because I had a love and talent for the arts, for dance and choreography so I felt like continuing this path.” Now Caracalla Dance Theater is flourishing with Alissar at the helm and takes up the largest part of her life. Dance shows are created and then performed both in Beirut and around the world. On average each show takes one and a half years to create, a process Caracalla describes as “so exciting;” during this time there is no fixed schedule. “You come in to work and don’t know when you will leave, it’s a
I don’t think I’ve achieved anything yet
chronora
state of mind,” she says. Also figuring large in her life is the Caracalla School of Dance which has grown from a beginning of 50 children to 1,500 students today. “I would like to influence youth a lot more, and I think I am doing this through the school,” she says. “This is why I continue doing it.” Various other projects she manages form yet another part of her life, and these include her role as dance choreographer to fledgling talent on popular TV show Star Academy. Equally important to Caracalla, is what she refers to as “upgrading”. Although she has a BA and Master’s, she believes education is a
continuous process and loves nothing more than to work on herself by taking courses. “I’ve fallen in love with yoga,” she says. “It becomes a way of life, and helps you become a more stable person in a chaotic city like Beirut.” Despite her packed schedule and life, Caracalla is brimming with ambitions for the future, among them the creation of more shows through the company and also helping forge a better understanding of dance in the Middle East. “I don’t think I’ve achieved anything yet. I feel there is so much more to do and I wish I had more time to do it in,” she says, glancing at the Rolex on her wrist with a smile.
SAGAS
81
V I S I ON S MIKIMOTO: Gold Baroque Pearl Ring
MIKIMOTO: Envole-Toi Gold SS Pearl and Diamond Broche
TUDOR:
ssence and e he and ltoheokC cool y
but s
take yo ta u
y om fr
hro n
Christmas
SHOPPING
list is nev
Time is of
t
RALPH LAUREN
Glamour Date Steel & Yellow Gold
o
Picking gifts for the family and business partners; cocktail parties and dinners and lunches; kids running free‌ The holidays are all about love and fun, but they can also be stressful. Plan your glamorous wardrobe now and shine through the whirlwind.
61
g, din en hat will
I N S TANC E S I N T I M E
s t he toys stor e. ot
30
e r ou th elegant bas r wi ra Boutique t ic
20
THE CIRCLE
The gla mor ous life 14
Bamboo Gold SS Pearl Necklace
TUDOR: Heritage Chrono chronora
BRIONI
MIKIMOTO:
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
JeanRichard: Bressel Lady Juliette Pink Gold, Mother of Pearl & Diamonds
CASATO: Vintage Prasiolite & Diamond Ring
e
le family is u o h Tim
!
f
.
and festiv d e t ni or classic chic e Christmas
givenchy
lunch
The w Diverscope Goldwaters
VERSACE
JeanRichard:
WINTER 2011
21
30
I N S TANC E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
V I S I ON S
RALPH LAUREN
THE CIRCLE
CASATO: Smokey Quartz & Diamond Earrings
ROLEX: Oyster Perpetual Royal Pink
o , s esents‌ r p
Christmas
la
dinner
o
T h e lig
agne is served p m pening their
ht
on the tre e r s a ft music is p e, g, yin
h the kids ar a e
c
22
14
Amethyst Dragonfly Ring
ROLEX: Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona in Everose
chronora
RALPH LAUREN
CASATO:
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
GIRARDPERREGAUX: wwtc Financial in White Gold
MIKIMOTO: Vintage SS White Pearls & Diamond Earrings
brioni
y
r
unforgettab n a thtaking luxu
vening, e le
a
new year’s eve
or go f o r br e F
Givenchy
MIKIMOTO: Lariat SS Degrade’ Black Pearls & Diamond Necklace
GIRARDPERREGAUX: GIRARDPERREGAUX ww.tc. Lady Shopping WINTER 2011
23
30
I N S TANC E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
V I S I ON S
RALPH LAUREN
THE CIRCLE
MIKIMOTO: SS Gold Pearl & Diamond Earrings
RALPH LAUREN: Stirrup Rose Gold Red Alligator Strap
Byzance SS Gold Pearls, Akoya Pearls & Diamond Necklace
RALPH LAUREN: Sporting Collection Chronograph Model Black Ceramic chronora
RALPH LAUREN
y jo
weekend chic
En
MIKIMOTO:
r
ic us
h Hap , p
v New Year. y
fee and l the m
Finall y, h s l o u p n c t a
to relax! e imisit an art galle
y,
24
14
14
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
Merilyn Monroe
pearl in the crown The
Tiara
THE CIRCLE
words by miriam dunn
Worn by queens and celebrities, painted by the great masters, pearls never cease to fascinate and stun. Here are our pearls of wisdom on how to choose jewels you’ll treasure for a lifetime. sk any connoisseur of jewellery to give the name that springs to mind for luxurious cultured pearls and the chances are they’ll immediately respond with the answer Mikimoto. From the classic, perfectly-formed creamhued strings of Akoya pearls, to the edgy, slate-colored Black South Sea variety, Mikimoto continues to lead the way in exquisite jewellery well over 100 years on from the date its founder ventured into the pioneering business of pearl culturing. The company’s exquisite range of strands, necklaces, rings, pendants and earrings have
adorned some of the world’s most beautiful women, including Hollywood greats like Marilyn Monroe and contemporary stars such as Sarah Jessica Parker. But just what is it about pearls that make them as popular today as they were when the luxury brand’s founder Kokichi Mikimoto began cultivating them in the 1880s? Lourdes Oliveira, a Mikimoto expert, believes it is down in part to the way in which pearls can bring timeless elegance and refinement to a woman’s appearance. “Icons of style such as Coco Chanel, Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy, have always worn pearl strands,” she says. WINTER 2011
25
14
Sarah Jessica Parker
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
Debutante Necklace
plans to buy a young woman her first pearls, Mikimoto’s newly-launched Debutante Feather and Pearl necklace will undoubtedly prove to be the perfect gift. Designed and crafted in Japan, the necklace, which was presented for the first time at the Queen Charlotte’s Ball, features an 18k White gold feather
Choosing the right necklace
and a detachable clasp with diamonds on a classic strand of the finest Akoya cultured pearls with a pavé diamond ball. The set, which is completed with Akoya cultured pearl stud earrings presented in a beautiful bespoke box, will surely retain a special place in both her heart and mind as the years go by.
CARING FOR YOUR PEARLS
The Mikimoto Debutante Set 2011. Akoya Cultured Pearls on 18k White Gold with Diamonds.
hen it comes to choosing pearls, the key factors to consider are lustre, colour and shape. “Lustre is the amount of light reflected from the pearl’s surface. Only the highest quality pearls with the best lustre carry the Mikimoto name,” she says. When evaluating colour, the two most important factors are richness of colour and an even colour distribution. “Pearl colours vary as widely as the type of oyster that produces them,” she says. “Ultimately, it is a matter of personal preference...the customer’s choice.” Mrs. Oliveira confirms that perfectly round pearls are the rarest and, therefore, the most valuable, although she also acknowledges that some women find the variety of other shapes available a source of fascination. “The pearls used in Mikimoto Akoya cultured pearl strands and jewellery are all perfectly
round,” she says. “With Mikimoto South Sea pearls, other shapes, like tear drop, oval, button and baroque are also favoured because of their uniqueness.” Pearls come in a variety of colours, which are determined by the type of oyster they come from. Akoya pearls, originating from Japan, are recognised as the finest cultured pearls as they perfectly complement all types of skin tone while White South Sea Pearls, produced in Australia, are generally more silver white. Black South Sea pearls from French Polynesia come in a variety of hues including the exquisite ‘peacock green,’ which reflects a breathtaking kaleidoscope of colour on its surface. “Golden South Sea pearls, from Indonesia and the Philippines, meanwhile, range from light champagne to a deep rich gold and are the rarest of the cultured pearls,” she says. If, perhaps, you have
THE ORIGINATOR OF CULTURED PEARLS SINCE 1893
179 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON
020 7399 9860
179 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON
CLIENT: Mikimoto
Tatler
MIK0615_285x220_Tatler
DATE: 10.8.11, 11:47 AM
SOFTWARE: CS5
COLOUR: 4 Colour
OPERATOR: Mark
TYPE AREA: -
INSERTION: -
PROOF LEVEL: 1st
TRIM SIZE: 285 x 220 mm
REPEAT: -
SPEC: ISO39L 300
BLEED SIZE: 295 x 230 mm
COL SIZE: -
Hangar Seven - London - Macclesfield - T: 0845 6255 747 - www.hangarseven.co.uk
S H O P O N L I N E A T M I K I MOTO . C O . U K
020 7399 9860
MIKIMOTO.CO.UK
Keep pearls separate from diamonds and other hard stones to ensure they don’t get scratched
Perspiration can also dull pearls. Wipe with a dry soft cloth after wearing and do not dip in water.
Pearls are vulnerable to acidic or alkaline substances. Avoid spraying perfume and hairspray near them.
Have your pearls restrung at least once a year.
Pearls should not be left in storage or in a security box for long periods of time since this could cause them to dehydrate.
Over time, pearls do change in appearance. However, if these instructions are followed, Mikimoto pearls can be enjoyed for generations.
WINTER 2011
27
Thesoundguru word by louis f. parks
Jyad Murr is perhaps the most influential man in the Lebanese music industry. With interests spanning several radio stations, Lebanese MTV, Virgin Megastores and concert promotion, not to mention recording studios, Murr is intimately linked to the Lebanese music scene.
Jyad Murr
Oyster Perpetual Day Date II Platinum
t all started thanks to his father’s love of music and a somewhat cheeky suggestion. “We had a ski resort and he ran a transmitter that broadcast warnings and information for skiers on the slopes,” Murr says with a laugh. “One day there was interference on the frequency, someone was trying to broadcast on a similar frequency as the transmitter. So, we had to fill the frequency with noise, anything, to make sure that we could use it when we needed to. My father wanted to play a steady, continuous tone, but I convinced him to let me play music over it instead. I started to play, I didn’t expect anyone to ever listen, but after a few weeks I went on air and said that if people wanted to hear a certain song that they should call this number.” Needless to say, the phone soon rang off the hook and Murr’s fascination with the radio, and music in general, really took off. Thirty years later, Murr’s still at it. He’s behind some of the most successful stations in Lebanon, including Nostalgie and NRJ and has expanded into television and concert promotion, “Music refreshes your soul, puts you in a good mood whatever’s happening. It’s also a
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
fun business, I don’t think I could ever be involved in something more straightforward; to attend to it from 9-5, that would bring me down,” he says. “My latest passion is mobile digital media, we’re working on all sorts of apps and systems over at MTV and on the website.”
aspect of his life, “I collect three things, musical instruments, Apple products and watches,” he says. Of course, Murr’s a Rolex man. There’s something about the timeless elegance of the grand Swiss brand that appeals to his understated style. “They’re eternal,”
When Murr’s talking about music and technology, in all it’s sizes and shapes, there’s a natural, easy flow to the conversation. The passion’s clear to see and it pervades every
he says. “Other watches are gimmicky, not Rolex. I could wear any piece from my collection and it’ll be relevant, up to date, as if it were brand new.” It all started when he received a Submariner
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
as a teenager, marveling in its quality and refined style. Murr soon became something of an addict. “A Rolex is never an impulse buy that you regret later, you don’t get bored of a Rolex, they’re all timeless,” he says. Whenever he buys the latest model, he soon finds himself returning to his old favorites, mixing and matching after a few months, “Sometimes I feel guilty, there are so many great pieces that I don’t really get a chance to wear very often,” he says. And the watch that started it all? Murr’s wife has taken a shine to the old Submariner and it’s rarely off her wrist. “It’s in fashion for women to wear larger watches with dials,” he says with a smile, “She’s also got my Yachtmaster…” Murr’s collection is impressive, but his favorites, for now, are the Day Date and the Daytona. What he’ll be wearing tomorrow, or next month, is anyone’s guess, but it will be a Rolex. “The only thing I don’t wear are the models with small faces, they don’t fit my style, but I collect them and I’ll hand them down to my daughters when the time’s right,” he says. It sounds like Murr’s collection is in danger from the women in his life, and fortunately he’s happy to share. WINTER 2011
29
daily pleasures • Get yourself a new pair of Christian Louboutin evening shoes • Freshen up your wardrobe and give rarely-worn items to charity • Take a trip down memory lane with a school or university reunion • Join the stars by booking a Tracie Martyn Resculpting Facial at her Fifth Avenue atelier in New York City • Treat yourself to fine French dining at the Parisian restaurant La Gazzetta • Lift your spirits with a bottle of Ralph Lauren’s Notorious perfume • Keep the romance alive with a second honeymoon at the luxury Constance Ephelia Resort on the island of Mahe in the Seychelles • Update your photo frames • Cozy up with a brand new bestseller, such as The Night Circus by Erin Morgenstern • Light up delightful fragrance candles from Paris- based Carriere Frères Industrie at Colette in Paris • Download the latest wonderful ballads from the soulful British songstress Adele • Declutter your home. Breathe • Prepare a fine meal and watch a classic Italian movie • Indulge in some top quality, luxurious, Egyptian cotton bed linen from Frette • Have a guilt-free evening playing that addictive game on your new phone • Treat yourself to Chanel’s Rouge Allure Luminous Satin Lip Colour
Rolex – Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
Thedreamwishlist words by owen adams
At this year’s Baselworld Watch & Jewelry Show in Switzerland, there were more than 500 watch exhibitors – but of course Rolex was the most distinguished brand, with a bevy of new marvels just in time for the holidays. he supreme chronographer debuted five new Oyster Perpetual models – robust, reliable, waterresistant wristwatches ideal for racing drivers, mountaineers, regatta officials and refined ladies with bright destinies, but utterly desirable to everyone. The latest Explorer II – a special 40th anniversary model – plays homage to tradition,
bringing back the arrow-tipped 24-hour orange hand immortalised by Steve McQueen in 1971. The Explorer II is designed to be worn in the most extreme places on the planet – it resiliently keeps a 24-hour clock while its wearer picks through polar ice, investigates a volcano’s magma core, or squeezes through an underground labyrinth. For anyone wanting to up the style quotient, on the black-dial version
31
32
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
the hour and minute hands’ black base blends with the dial to create a ‘phantom effect’ – the luminescent white-gold sections seem to float over the dial. And for those who don’t want to forget they’re wearing a 31-rubied timepiece– the case has increased slightly
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
in size, from 40mm to 42mm. Named after the famous American motorracing circuit, the black alligator leather-strapped Cosmograph Daytona – initially launched in 1963, its title emblazoned in red letters on the dial - is designed for kings of
speed who aren’t afraid to take bends tightly. Its chronograph movement allows short periods of elapsed time to be measured within oneeighth of a second, and the tachymetric scale on the bezel can give an instant reading of speed over a programmed
distance. In the top-secret labs of Rolex’s Geneva headquarters, engineers have developed a new and exclusive monobloc black Cerachrom bezel made of an advanced ceramic that’s virtually impossible to scratch, is resistant to corrosion and doesn’t fade. Yet the state-of-the-
art technology is a strong echo of the black bezel on the 1964 model. The innerworkings of the Daytona sound like a top racing car – the high-precision chronograph is driven by a calibre 4130 movement introduced in 2000, using a column wheel and vertical clutch, with Rolex’s
in-house boffins intricate craftsmen manufacturing a Parachrom hairspring from a new alloy, which makes it 10 times more shockresistant and oblivious to potential devastation wreaked by magnetic fields. However turbulent the rest of the world gets,
33
34
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
Rolex seem to keep a steady hand on the tiller – and, nautically speaking, the new Yacht Master II should make you feel as if you rule the waves. With a programmable countdown and mechanical memory, it’s something no skipper should be without. Even after the official
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
race countdown has been launched, the yachtsman can, if required, synchronise his watch. The Ring Command bezel, found on no other timepiece, can be rotated 90 degrees and initialise and lock the countdown programme. Rolex also stays in
touch with its feminine side by launching two versions of its celebrated Datejust. The slender, 26mm-diameter Lady Datejust has a Gold Crystals dial, with a dazzling technology that magnifies the natural crystal structure of the gold, while capturing light
and making an exquisite play of reflections. One version has an ivorycoloured dial decoration with a ‘sunbeam’ guilloche pattern and the dials are graced with 10 diamonds. The bezel exudes 46 brilliant-cut diamonds. The Special Edition features 12 diamonds around the
bezel, elegantly showcased in 18ct white-gold settings. Its Goldust Dream dial marries white or black Tahiti mother-of-pearl and gold dust, embellished with a new nature-inspired motif. The slightest ray of light illuminates the magical dial. The new-style clasp is designed to be
elegant and invisible. Whether racing in a regatta, up a mountain, speeding down a track or merely parading down the street, you will always shine when wearing a Rolex - the sunlight glancing off the jewelled dial. Perhaps it’s time for the ultimate treat?
35
36
14
THE CIRCLE
chronora
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E Tourbillon Historic Pocket watch 1860
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
A history of
time words by louis f. parks
girard-perregaux, one of the most prestigious of Swiss watchmakers, owes its existence to the determination and drive of its founder jean-francois bautte. Orphaned while a young boy, Bautte overcame his relative lack of education thanks to his uncanny ability to understand complex mechanical processes. Displaying fine attention to detail and a practical bent, 1791 saw the creation of Bautte’s first timepieces; he was 19 years of age. WINTER 2011
37
38
efore long Bautte was one of the world’s most acclaimed watch makers and was a frequent visitor to Europe’s royal courts. Specializing in incredibly thin designs, Bautte fully embraced technological advances, setting up one of the first watch factories on the continent. The entire production line was under one roof, something all but unheard of at the time. Upon Bautte’s retirement his company merged with another watchmaking firm, which in turn merged with another. Finally, in 1856, Girard-Perregaux was born and Constantin Girard took over the running of the firm. Girard was something of a perfectionist and created the Tourbillon Sous Trois Ponts d’Or, or Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, a pocket watch of unsurpassed beauty and refinement that won Girard-Perregaux two gold medals at the Paris Universal Exhibitions in 1867 and 1889; it remains today one of the most coveted mechanical timepieces. Over time Girard-Perregaux has maintained this standard of excellence and has contributed chronora
Girard-Perregaux in-house Movement
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
countless innovations to the art of watch making. An early proponent of the wristwatch, Girard-Perregaux was the first company to design a series of watches following an order from Emperor Wilhelm I of Germany to supply his naval officers with portable timepieces. While the wristwatch was too novel an idea to appeal to the public, Girard-Perregaux successfully designed the first examples in 1880, over 100 years before the concept became popular. Hinting at the company’s dedication to technological evolution, Girard-Perregaux embraced quartz timekeeping, and the company’s methods and results soon became held as the universal standard for quartz watches. The company’s renown as the leaders in the quartz field allowed them to weather the crisis in the Swiss watch industry brought about by the influx of cheap, plastic, digital Japanese watches in the 1970’s and 80’s. By refusing to compromise on materials and quality, the firm emerged in one piece, while many competitors had all but disappeared. By the time Europeans started to buy Swiss again GirardPerregaux was in pole position. WINTER 2011
39
40
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
1772
JeanFrançois Bautte is born in Geneva and is apprenticed at the age of twelve and trained variously as a case fitter, guillocheur, watchmaker, jeweler and goldsmith. He signs his first watches in 1791
1889
The famous Tourbillon Sous Trois Ponts d’Or wins its first gold medal at The Paris Universal Exhibition.
1880
Constant Girard designs a revolutionary wristwatch concept for German naval officers, at the order of Kaiser Wilhelm I.
1900-1910
Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin measures his flight tests using Girard-Perregaux timepieces.
1966
The company presents the first high frequency movement, with a 36,000 vibrations/hour balance, fundamentally changing the world of chronometry.
1971
Tourbillon movement
Tourbillon with 3 gold bridges (limited edition)
chronora
To honor this ongoing tradition of excellence, Girard-Perregaux is currently celebrating its 220-year anniversary with a global travelling exhibition of its finest, and most historically important, timepieces. The highlights of the exhibition, titled “A Tale of inspiration – Unveiling 220 years of Watchmaking Art”, include Esmeralda, a
breathtakingly beautiful pocket watch that set new standards in terms of both accuracy and the detailing of its case, as well as the world-famous Tourbillon Sous Trois Ponts d’Or. Stopping off in Singapore, Shanghai and New York, the exhibition represents the most important collection of Girard-Perregaux pieces ever to be exhibited outside of France.
GirardPerregaux unveils the world’s first watch a quartz movement vibrating at 32,768 Hertz, the current universal standard.
1994 – 2004
Girard-Perregaux unites with Ferrari to create a stunning collection of sporting and Grande complication pieces featuring the Prancing Horse.
2011
To celebrate its 220-year anniversary, Girard-Perregaux takes to the road with a global exhibition of the finest pieces from the GirardPerregaux Museum.
at first sight
Cherish the one you love with fine gems that will melt hearts now and dazzle for eternity
Photographer : Tarek Moukaddem | Man dressed by Tom Ford | Illustration : Azzi & Osta, Krikor Jabotian | Hair stylist & makeup: Pace & Luce
Love
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Explorer II
CASATO Aphrodite Set Smokey Quartz with Diamonds
GIRARDPERREGAUX Cat’s Eye –Pink Gold, Enamel Dial with Diamonds
ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Special Edition Pearl Master – White Gold, 12 Diamond Bezel
MIKIMOTO Unique Piece Opal & Black South Sea Pearl Necklace
MIKIMOTO World of Creativity Earrings and Ring
RALPH LAUREN
RALPH LAUREN
MIKIMOTO
Sporting Collection Ceramic & GIRARDPERREGAUX Pen & Cufflinks
Stirrup Collection
Lariat Degrade’ Black South Sea Pearl Necklace & Allure Ring & Black South Sea Earrings with Diamond
RALPH LAUREN Stirrup Collection Large
ROLEX Day-Date II Yellow Gold with Diamond Bezel
CASATO Aphrodite Rock Crystal & Diamond Earrings & Ring
MIKIMOTO Gold South Sea Pearl Necklace
48
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
RALPH LAUREN Stirrup Full Pavée
CASATO Chic Collection Sapphire Earrings & Ring
SCHEFFEL Cameo Pendant on Mikimoto Akoya Pearls
chronora
14
TUDOR Heritage Advisor
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
Modern elegance words by: dan bratman
On March 6, 1946 Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, wrote a letter that said, “For some years now I have been considering the idea of making a watch at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standards of dependability for which Rolex is famous. It is called the Tudor Watch Company.” And so, Rolex’s little brother toddled into the world. t did not take long for Tudor to catch up with its older brother. With its first watch, an elegantly crafted gold timepiece called the Tudor Oyster model, the company began its long-standing tradition of unique designs. Tudor spread its logo far and wide on the scene and became one of the first companies to utilize the idea
of branding. Their logo, a rose on a shield, echoed the emblem of the esteemed British royal family for which it was named. In 1952 Tudor launched its first exclusive advertising campaign coming out from the shadow of its famous brother. Tudor grew up into a brand standing shoulder to shoulder with Rolex.
WINTER 2011
51
52
14
THE CIRCLE
chronora
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
14
TUDOR Rose Crown
TUDOR Heritage Advisor
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
The Advisor t this year’s Baselworld 2011, Tudor unveiled its new Tudor Advisor, an elegant timepiece featuring a surprisingly uncommon alarm function. Oddly, many high-end watches, even those with seemingly infinite complications, are often without this basic function. It’s great to know what time it is in style, but it’s even better to be on time. Your boss, for example, may not be so impressed by your fashionable
tardiness. Enter, the Advisor. With its case of Titanium and steel and its silvered face, the Advisor has class. It comes with either a satin finished steel or black alligator leather strap with a folding clasp and new safety catch. The Advisor is part of Tudors new Heritage Collection, a re-visitation of Tudor’s mid-century classics. The Advisor is essentially a modern interpretation of a 1957 Tudor alarm watch. But, its bigger WINTER 2011
53
54
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
TUDOR Heritage Advisor with Fabric Strap
chronora
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
face and power reserve indicator makes this watch a modern piece with retro flavor. Its movement includes an exclusive module that gives off a clear, constant ring when the alarm goes off. But our favorite addition is definitely the on/off window by 9:00. It is a well thought out and pragmatic addition. There’s nothing worse than waking at noon to see you had set your alarm for 8:00 but neglected to turn it on. You may go from fashionably late to unfashionably unemployed.
No longer the tag along little brother, Tudor has forged a tradition of its own. From its post-war beginnings it has become a modern watchmaker with roots in the past. Tudor’s unique style and rugged construction shield a sophisticated and precise timepiece, one ready for the rigors of the modern world. The Advisor alarm watch offers an added practicality to the classic looks and time-honored craftsmanship Tudor has been turning out for more than half a century.
www.porschebeirut.com
Porsche Centre Lebanon s.a.l. Telephone 01 975 911, 03 901 911
56
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
So we
beat on … words by dan bratman
cloud of thundering hooves passes by, the smell of clean leather and fine horses mingles with the warm afternoon breeze. Under the striped tent sit straw hatted ladies and men of distinction. Crystal and silver shimmer in the waning light of day. A horse is led to the stables, head down, winded, by a man in white breeches carrying a mallet, a classic watch on his wrist catches the light as he pets his mount on the neck. Vintage cars are parked on the grass. Men in white coats whisk away your empty glass, replacing it invisibly, silently with another. This is a world steeped in the traditions of the past yet languid with the luxury of the present. For most of us, it may be too late to become a professional polo player. But for those of us not born into the blue blood chronora
of this exclusive world, there is Ralph Lauren. Mr. Lauren has been designing everything from clothes to home furnishings to dress this world in his vision for decades. And, in 2009, he boldly stepped into the time-honored realm of watch making. “I’ve always liked purposeful things,” he has said, “things that are designed not just to be decorative. I like sports and speed, style and beauty.” A bold move indeed. The ancient craft of horology has a heritage with makers in the business for centuries. Neophytes are looked at askance. But Mr. Lauren has never been one to shy from a challenge and his new line of watches shows an insight into the craft as well as its history. He also brings his inimitable style to the fore with three lines of timekeepers for the polo set and the rest of us.
58
RALPH LAUREN Sporting Collection GuillochĂŠ
RALPH LAUREN Sporting Colleciton Ceramic
The collections First there is the Sporting Collection. Headed up by the Classic with its elm burled face and elegant simplicity, the Sporting collection is for the active crowd. Rugged construction and sturdy conformation are the chronora
hallmarks of their good breeding. Over a dozen on this string to choose from means the Sporting Collection has a watch for all seasons. Water resistant, and hearty, they can stand a good gallop and still be ready for a black tie after.
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
RALPH LAUREN Stirrup Full Pavée Dimond Bezel
RALPH LAUREN Stirrup Pink Gold with Red Alligator Strap
Eponymously shaped, the Stirrup Collection speaks to the equestrian crowd. The unique shape evokes oak paneled tack rooms, silver trophies and tradition. Galloping to the lead of the Stirrup Collection is the Diamond
Set. These watches have their Roman numeral dials surrounded with glittering diamonds. Perfect for the post fox hunt lunch and the evening benefit. “There is a way of living that has a certain grace and beauty,” Lauren WINTER 2011
59
60
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
RALPH LAUREN Slim Classique Collection White Gold with Baguette Diamonds
RALPH LAUREN Square Guilloché Model
has said. “Not a constant race for what’s next, but rather an appreciation
There is a way of living that has a certain grace and beauty of that which has come before.” The embodiment of this kind of grace and beauty is the Slim Classique Collection. chronora
Mr Lauren has given us a delicate and refined design, understated and beautiful. Most of them have a round face, looking like an ancient sundial. But these are much easier to carry around and far more stylish than the huge old stone type. The 42 mm model in rose gold has 192 shimmering diamonds in two rows surrounding the case and on the inside hides a movement
manufactured by Piaget, exclusively for Ralph Lauren. Whether you were born on horseback to the life of the hunt field and polo grounds or just like the style, Ralph Lauren has made a unique line of watches to choose from. With high quality movements and traditional styling with a modern twist, these watches can stand up next to the old guard.
daily pleasures • With winter holidays on the way, order Louis Vuitton’s latest range of stockings online • Give yourself a wonderfully pampering early night bath, with oils and candles and soft music • Sign up for a sailing cruise on the Mediterranean • Book a holiday at the luxury Balinese village resort of Amandari, in Bali, Indonesia • Enjoy the scent of the dew and forest trees on a walk in the countryside Take up an art class, whether it’s sculpting, painting or engraving • Book tickets to see Sister Act on Broadway • Resolve to learn a new language • Purchase a new string of Mikimoto pearls at the Rolex Boutique • Cook your favorite Alain Ducasse recipe for your closest friends • Order your authentic Tunisian Tfal clay mud mask with rose and geranium oils and waters from LA In Home Spa Luxury Spa products • Read Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy before seeing the film • Resolve to find the names of trees and plants you see every day • Smile as you walk down the streets and see just how contagious happiness is•Get organized and make your shopping lists for the winter holidays • Plant your own herb box and enjoy the pungent aromas all day long
62
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS MIKIMOTO Unique Opal & Black South Sea Pearl Necklace
MIKIMOTO Kokichi Mikimoto – Inventor of the Cultured Pearl, Japan Early 1900
Nature, refined words by louis parks
There are but a few names that are synonymous with the reshaping of an entire industry. Innovators who, seemingly overnight, change the way in which business is done. Kokichi Mikimoto, founder of the eponymous Mikimoto, was one such man.
okichi Mikimoto was born in 1858 on the southern coast of central Japan to a large lower middle class family, at a fortuitous time. Japan was just beginning to interact and trade with the outside world; in possession of a curious, outgoing mind, Mikimoto was soon to make a name for himself. In 1878, at the age of just 20, a young Mikimoto happened to help arrange an exhibition of Japanese pearls. The specimens on show appalled chronora
him, misshapen and discolored as they were and, disgusted by the greed and lack of quality on display, the young man decided to go away and tackle the problem. Through a process of trial and error the fantastically gifted Mikimoto managed to create the world’s first cultured pearl. Specifically grown, under ideal circumstances, the result was nothing short of revolutionary. As word spread of this young upstart Mikimoto came to the attention of Japan’s Imperial family.
64
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
Birth of the pearl Mikimoto had discovered that Akoya oysters, native to the waters of southern Japan, produced the finest pearls. By carefully introducing an irritant, normally in the form of a few grains of sand, Mikimoto stimulated the oyster into secreting the fluid known as nacre that, once built up into thousands of layers, produced a pearl. Facing down adversities such as oyster-eating octopi and bacterial infections, Mikimoto, with imperial backing, was soon ready to open his first retail outlet. The world’s first Mikimoto store opened in Tokyo’s fashionable Ginza district in 1899 and soon branches were popping up in London, Paris and
further afield. The “manmade” cultured pearl was something entirely new. Previously pearls had been harvested on a large scale, but never created using the methods pioneered by Mikimoto. Through refinement of his process, Mikimoto was able to perfect pearl production, meaning that individual pearls could be shaped like never before and were, in the vast majority of cases, absolutely flawless. Suddenly Mikimoto was everywhere. His work was the center point at the 1910 Anglo-Japanese Fair in London; a pagoda made of over 12,000 pearls and platinum wowed crowds at the 1926 World Fair. 1939 saw the creation of a copy of America’s famous Liberty
Bell that became worldfamous as the “Million Dollar Bell.” The company’s success was assured. Since the early years the company’s growth has been steady, with stores now open across the world. Mikimoto is the world’s preeminent creator of cultured pearls and a beacon of jewelry design. An intriguing mix of modernity and tradition, Mikimoto designs continue to capture the imagination as the company strives to continue its tradition of innovation. Be they traditional cream earrings or a necklace of gun-metal grey pearls, Mikimoto’s designs still represent the very best when it comes to this most Japanese of industries. chronora
The “Yaguruma” a multi-functional obidome brooch exhibited at the 1937 Paris International Exposition that could be set into 12 different pieces of jewelry, including a ring, a hair ornament, a brooch etc…
Pearl Island
Selection of White, Black & Gold South Sea Pearl Necklaces
Chronora B Downtown Gold Souks Tel: 01-XXX
66
14
THE CIRCLE
chronora
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
Rolex Protégée Maya Zbib
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
Director Peter Sellars
MayaZbib Maya Zbib describes her year as protégée to distinguished director Peter Sellars in the 2010-2011 Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative why did you apply to be a protégée
how would you describe your
for the rolex arts initiative?
relationship with peter sellars?
When I was told I was nominated to take part in the Rolex Arts Initiative, I felt that it was a great honour that I had been chosen. And, although I did not have a clear idea of what this might actually turn out to be and in what way it would nourish my work, I was intrigued to get to know the work of Peter Sellars, an undeniably exceptional artist and person. So there was no hesitation: I had to apply! You can’t say: “No” to such moments of recognition that come your way with the potential of opening new doors and paving new paths – it’s karma, as Peter would put it.
I sincerely love him. How can anyone not? I regard him as a friend and a spiritual/activist/artistic mentor all at once. I respect him a lot. I can be reticent around him sometimes, as I am still learning how to deal with him in the various aspects of his life that I have encountered so far. I try to listen in order not to be in his way when he’s working and not to affect his focus, but sometimes we just have fun and enjoy nice food, good music and lovely company. I appreciate how generous he was in letting me into his life and introducing me to his family, close friends and fellow great artists. how have your impressions of peter
WINTER 2011
67
68
sellars changed over the course of the mentorship?
When I first met Peter, I was overwhelmed by his presence and the breadth of his knowledge and wit, and how the ideas framing his work were ever-present in all his conversations. I was a bit worried about not being able to keep up with him. Now I am less worried in general, thanks to him. And, since I have come to know Peter more closely, I understand how all aspects of his life as an artist and as a person converge to make what he is and what he does. I realize how this great focus that he has, in every moment, comes from his sincere determination and the integrity of his work; the work he does reflects the way he chooses to lead his life and vice versa. It’s a whole process of being and doing, not two separate things. in what ways has your mentor surprised you?
What surprises me about Peter is how simple and chronora
complex he can be. He has the spark of a genius and the humility of a simple man. The way he deals with every single person
he has a spark of a genius and the humilit y of a simple man he meets, in the most personal and generous manner, bringing little rays of light and empowerment into their lives, fascinates me. The sincerity in his approach is also very surprising. has your way of thinking about making theatre changed since you began your mentoring year?
I would not say it has changed, but new layers have been added to it. Peter has broadened my horizon of what theatre can be through the breadth of his research, from current events to ancient sacred Indian art, for example. On the other hand, Peter
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
“Peter has broadened my horizon of what theater can be”
WINTER 2011
69
70
14
THE CIRCLE
chronora
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
reminded me of the joy and pleasure of doing theatre and that it does not have to be a heavy, complicated task. I watched him infuse a positive vibe in the rehearsal room every single day during Hercules. The stress-free atmosphere he created was unprecedented for me. He believes in people and trusts that they will find the right quality he is seeking when the time comes – and they do! what is the most important piece of adv ice your mentor has given you?
“What surprises me about Peter is how simple and complex he can be”
To never be angry, to look at things in a positive way and see the beauty in people rather than the anger, and that fighting leads to nowhere. I guess he tried to teach me peace. I can’t say that I am managing to practise that fully! One needs a lot of confidence and a great amount of faith in order to muster that forgiving
attitude, but I’m working on it as I realize that to be angry is a big waste of time and energy. what do you plan to do next?
I am currently collaborating with my colleagues at the Zoukak Theatre Company on a new project in Lebanon. It’s a collective writing project that will lead to a performance around social structures that define and shape gender stereotypes as identified through local myths, folk tales and modern legends and I will be leading a series of workshops with several groups of people for this aim. I will also be performing The Music Box [created by Zbib as a result of dialogues held with a number of women in their homes] at the Fringe of the Avignon Festival. I will have a residency with Zoukak in a village in Mount Lebanon where we will be working on a new project. WINTER 2011
71
72
chronora
The kidnapping of Europa is said to have taken place in Phoenicia
An enameled painting on mother-of-pearl representing the myth of Europa
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
Myths &
beauty words by dan bratman
Standing alone in the green fields of her father’s vast lands, Europa felt unsure. Something deep inside her, despite her feelings, compelled her to reach out and touch the shoulder of the gentle white bull that stood before her. Gradually, she lost her fear and climbed onto his back. She steadied herself with a hand on his horn, his shoulders draped with the fragrant chains of flowers. With her white tunic fluttering in the breeze, the bull, who was Zeus in disguise, carried Europa across the sea away from her Phoenician home to the island of Crete. rom the time man was able to form words, he used them to tell stories. Before that, there were gestures, drawings. He sought to express the love, fear and awe of his experience, the power of his hands, the struggle against nature. From this essentially human desire to express, the artist became central to culture and civilization, passing down the stories that spoke to us. An inheritor of this ancient tradition, Lebanese artist Hussein Madi has carried on its essential function. His work uses broad shapes and bold colors,
both abstract and human. The images are a language of form, pictograms, oneword stories, both timeless and modern. Considered one of the Middle East’s foremost artists, Madi’s simple lines and abstract style have been compared to Picasso but what he paints is uniquely Madi. His paintings have a calligraphic feel. In the Middle Eastern tradition of letters as art, Madi infers the written language in the curve of human shapes, suggesting a freedom of movement. They are a frozen moment, telling a story broken into its simplest parts, leaving the viewer with a feeling of participation, like you were there. WINTER 2011
73
74
14
THE CIRCLE
chronora
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
The Making-of: Madi’s Colour Palette
The technician at work
Hussein Madi in his studio
The women’s watch, Europa
Another inheritor of this tradition, watchmaker Girard-Perregaux has crafted timepieces of incomparable beauty and complexity. Aside from the stunning designs and intricate inner workings, Girard-Perregaux have enlisted artists to decorate these already beautiful pieces with their own individual work. So, when recently, they were ready to design a new watch, finding the right artist was essential. “When we first decided to create this new design, we wanted something to be truly Lebanese,” says Zeina Annan, agent for GirardPerregaux. “We talked about the Kidnapping of Europa because, as the story goes, it took place in Phoenicia.” After some time had passed they chose to contact Lebanese artist Hussein Madi. “We sat at the conference table with him and asked him what he had been working on. When he said he had been working on a sculpture based on the kidnapping of Europa, my heart skipped a beat! WINTER 2011
75
76
14
THE CIRCLE
chronora
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
Painting of the watch dial
Minute watchmaking
Hussein Madi had been working on a sculpture based on the kidnapping of Europa
Dial Pieces
The men’s watch, Adonis
If there is such a thing as destiny, I had found it here.” Ms. Annan made a visit to the studio of Hussein Madi and saw his steel sculpture as well as two paintings, one of Europa and one of Adonis. “I found the work to be absolutely incredible,” she remarked.
If there is such a thing as destiny, I had found it here The result of this serendipitous collaboration is two new
designs—a man’s watch, The Adonis and a women’s watch, The Europa. Each watch, requiring over 700 hours to complete, includes an enameled painting on mother-ofpearl by Hussein Madi representing the myth of Europa. “We wanted to have two watches to keep the love affair together, like Zeus and Europa.” “Throughout the history of culture artists have painted the same subject over and over again,” says Ms. Annan. “Each time, whether it is a direct copy or an original idea, it serves
to preserve the culture while it expresses the essence of the artist. Each myth has something true in it. The stories, the art, the archeological sites that remain remind us of what we have inherited. It doesn’t matter if you are Arab or African or Asian, this is where we are from. This is our story and it is timeless.” And so, the collaboration between watch making and art continues. The new pieces by Girard Perregaux and Hussein Madi will serve to keep time while preserving the timelessness of culture. WINTER 2011
77
14
THE CIRCLE
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS Ralph Lauren Bugatti 57SC Atlantic Coupe Collection Car
RALPH LAUREN Automotive Sporting Collection
Manlydelights words by: dan bratman
ew things (although there are a few) make a man’s heart beat faster than sitting behind the wheel of a speeding automobile. The rumbling of the road beneath spinning tires, the purring of an engine, finely tuned and lovingly maintained, the wind caressing the curved lines of a sleek chassis. With the freedom of speed, a man recalls his primal purpose. Left behind are the bills, the diapers, the nagging boss, the pedestrian life. He is driving. He is man. Ralph Lauren is no exception. In fact, when he’s not defining men’s style across the world and building empires, he’s probably spending time with his astounding car collection. As
A RL Watch 1500x1500.indd 1
78
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
chronora
one might imagine, Mr. Lauren has never done things partway. In fact, he owns more than seventy cars. Some of which are the rarest in existence. But one stands out even for him. His 1938 Bugatti 57SC Atlantic Coupe. Beware car lovers, this one will steal your soul. Its salacious curves and aerodynamic styling look like they could cheat gravity. Standing still, it whispers to you like a black wind. Inside the cockpit the burled oak dashboard is fraught with dials and meters, levers and buttons, putting the mastery of control at the driver’s fingertips. Revving up to 200–210 horsepower and reaching top speed of 130 mph, this antique’s got some power.
25/10/11 11:35
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
79
80
14
THE CIRCLE
The new watch has a stainless steel casing polished to a matte finish that surrounds a burled elm face; the inside is finely crafted
chronora
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
81
VISIONS
But not everyone has the resources to get behind the wheel of a vintage rarity for this experience. So, Mr. Lauren has been kind enough to help us out. No, he’s not letting us borrow his car but he has given us a chance to experience the inspiration behind it. Although new to the time-honored art of horology, Ralph Lauren has been making beautiful watches since 2009. And one of his newest designs, the aptly named Automotive Model, is based on the sleek curves and retro dashboard of the Bugatti 57SC Atlantic Coupe. The new watch has a stainless steel casing polished to a matte
finish that surrounds a burled elm face. It looks like it could have been culled from the dash of the Bugatti itself. It is not a complex piece. The manual winding watch has hands for hours, minutes and seconds, forsaking the multiple operations of some more modern styled timepieces. It comes with a Sapphire crystal case back and a simple but stylish black calfskin strap. Its design harkens us back to a simpler time, one when cars were built for racing, before the minivan. Powering this watch is a manual winding mechanical movement, caliber RL98295, made by IWC for Ralph Lauren,
featuring a power reserve of 45 hours. The inside is as finely crafted as any great watch on the market. But the outside looks like The Great Gatsby. It’s what you would wear on some expanse of green lawn leading to a Georgian mansion on the beach. It’s what you would check to see if your driver is late to bring you to the polo match. It’s the watch on the wrist of the man who would have a car collection. In truth, there are many fine watches on the market. Many of them have a name attached to them that speaks of hundreds of years of honing craft and handing down of tradition. But this watch has personality. It stands out from the crowd without being pretentious. Its wooden face has a classic quality making it seem like it has been passed down through the family. Like it could have been rediscovered in the attic of the family manor. This is perhaps the appeal of Ralph Lauren. Instant tradition. Ready-to-wear heirlooms. Things come out of the box with a lived in comfort and style and the Automotive Model is no exception. While the Ralph Lauren Automotive Model may not have the same image building power as the Bugatti Atlantic Coupe, it has a similar appeal. And it’s a lot easier to pack in your suitcase.
daily pleasures • Find five minutes to enjoy a truly wonderful sunrise or sunset • Walk instead of jumping in a taxi • Rekindle your romance with a weekend away at Dubai’s seven star Burj Al Arab Hotel, Jumeirah Beach • Mix all your favorite fruits and juices in a vitamin-laden home-made smoothie • Do something extra special for a close friend • Linger at the Tiffany’s 5th Avenue store • Give your skin the help it needs with Chanel’s Precision Hydramax+ Active Active Moisture Boost Cream • Lay in bed and browse through your favorite fashion magazines • Spend an evening listening to old music LPs • Accessories make an outfit, so indulge in a luxurious cashmere pashmina from Harrods • Give your car a little tender loving care with some fitted, luxury leather seat covers online • Create a truly nutritious homemade soup with lamb meat, vegetables and herbs • Take a city break at the Casa Fuster Hotel on the Passeig de Gracia in Barcelona • Book tickets for Rihanna’s unmissable world tour this winter • Write down the reasons you have to be happy and attach your list to the fridge
82
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
VISIONS
81
WINTERLUXURies words by dan bratman
ski using a pair of long narrow pieces of hard material fastened under the feet to glide over snow. skiing at Vail the art of casual luxury.
The sun is closer up here. From the top, the view is like from a precipice. The cold wind sparks up shimmering snowflakes. A deep breath. A push. Clouds of crystal fly up from the skis in a fight with gravity, digging into the mountain. The rhythm of sound, the thrill of speed until, all too soon, the force of nature, the imposing colossus of mountain has been conquered. A glance behind tells the story of courage as the warm and welcoming lodge lays waiting in the shallow distance. Since its opening in 1962, the Vail Ski Resort in Colorado has been synonymous with great skiing—and great living. One of the largest ski resorts in the US, Vail is a winter magnet for the exclusive set. Renown for its ideal snow conditions and natural beauty, it has also become a hub of luxury. It offers the best in everything, from luxury shopping to dining and the finest in spa treatments. chronora
Winterpalace Nestled at the foot of imposing mountains, Vail village has spawned one of the world’s most elegant new residences and shopping centers. With its grand opening just last season, the Solaris rises up like a new world chalet of shopping and luxury living. The Solaris has 79 new residences, all with custom fireplaces and mountain views designed for the elegant and casual life on the slopes. The shopping center below includes jewelers, sporting goods, men’s and women’s clothing, art galleries and home furnishings. All of the finest quality. And, if shopping and skiing aren’t enough for you, the Solaris even has a skating rink, movie theatre and bowling alley, all within a most luxurious architectural package.
Gustatory delicacies Amongst all the traditional gustatory options in the village, this past summer has brought a culinary triumph to town. The world famous Nobu has come to settle by its snowy slopes.
84
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
VISIONS
81
Before, to partake in chef Matsuhisa’s famous fare, one had to be in Beverly Hills, Aspen or Athens, Greece. But now the best sushi in the world can be had après ski in Vail. Its spectacular interior is equaled only by what comes from the kitchen. The food is so good, you may not even notice the celebrities at the table next to you.
Luxuriant indulgences After a rigorous day battling the slopes, a bit of relaxation may be in order. Vail’s selection of spa resorts is some of the best in the world. There’s the Vail Mountain Lodge and Spa, right near the mountain with its cozy fireplaces and feather beds or the Rock Resort Spa and its aromatherapy foot soaks and eco-conscious luxury. Vail brings together the best of everything in an intimate town at the foot of one of the best skiing mountains in the world.
chronora
Solaris 141 East Meadow Drive #211 www.solarisvail.com
The Sebastian Hotel 16 Vail Road www.thesebastianvail.com
Matsuhisa SushiAt Solaris Solaris- 141 East Meadow Drive #211 www.matsuhisavail.com
Vail Mountain Lodge & Spa 352 East Meadow Drive www.vailmountainlodge.com The Ritz Carlton-Vail 1031 S. Frontage Road www.ritzcarltonclub.com
86
casato
1
2
1. Aphrodite Amethyst with diamond earrings
2. Aphrodite Rock crystal with diamond ring
chronora
1
2
1. VINTAGE 1945 XXL Pink Gold Case, Sapphire Case Back, GirardPerregaux automatic Mechanical Movement
2. VINTAGE 1945 LADY Material: Pink gold Dimensions / Diameter: 34.00 x 23.30 mm Height: 8.15 mm Water resistance: 3 ATM (100 feet) Functions: Hour, minute, date
87
88
1 2 3 4
1. TURTLE Brown and white diamonds pendant 2. APPLE Ruby and emerald pendant 3. LAS VEGAS DICE Pink sapphires, black & white diamonds bracelet 4. LADY BUG Ruby and black & white diamonds bracelet
chronora
1
2
1. Bressel Lady Case: Stainless steel case, set with 58 diamonds, 38 mm Water resistant: to 30 metres Strap: Silver color python strap.
2. 2TimeZone Beirut LIMITED EDITION JR1000 in-house winding movement, Dual-Time Zone Function
89
90
Sakura Collection Black South Sea pearls, diamonds and motherof-pearl flower motif, set in 18k pink gold.
chronora
1
2
1. OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER II Case: diameter 44 mm Material: everose rolesor Waterproofness: 100 metres (330 feet) Bracelet: type oyster, three-piece solid links
2. OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST SPECIAL EDITION Case: Type OYSTER Diameter 34 mm Material: 18 ct EVEROSE gold, polished finish Bezel: set with 12 brilliantcut diamonds (~0.39 ct) Waterproofness: 100 metres (330 feet) Dials:GOLDUST DREAM (motif via deposition of 18 ct pink gold on white mother-ofpearl) GOLDUST DREAM (motif via deposition of 18 ct pink gold on black Tahiti mother-of-pearl) Bracelet: Type OYSTER, five-piece links
91
92
Baroque Couture Baroque South Sea Pearl Ring and Pendant on White Gold and Diamonds
chronora
1
2
1. heritage advisor Case: 42 mm titanium and steel case Finish: polished and satin Bezel: smooth steel Waterproof: to a depth of 100 m (330 ft) Bracelet: steel or alligator leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch ; additional fabric strap with buckle
2. clair de rose Case: 30 mm steel case with polished finish Finish: steel or 18 ct pink gold bezel with polished finish Waterproof: to a depth of 100 m (330 ft) Bracelet : steel bracelet with safety catch; satin or fabric strap with buckle Fittings: steel or 18 ct pink gold fittings
93
94
casato 1
2
1. CHIC Blue sapphire & diamonds earrings
2. CHIC Blue Sapphire Ring & Rose sapphire & diamond ring
chronora
14
THE CIRCLE
30
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
61
SAGAS
81
VISIONS
1
2
1. Slim Classique Collection Rose Gold and Diamond Bezel with GuillochĂŠ Dial, Manufacture movement RL430, made by Piaget for Ralph Lauren
2. Sporting Collection World Time Model Rose Gold, Sapphire Crystal Case Back, Manufacture movement RL939 made by Jaeger-Le Coultre for Ralph Lauren
95
Not  so jet-setting it in Europe words by: yours truly illustrations by: yasmina nysten
14
here is this idea in Texas society that travel is glamorous. Have you ever planned a lavish holiday, only to see that the mean spirited flight manager with bad highlights won’t let you in because you are two minutes late? Of course she cannot imagine the hassle of packing an entire wardrobe into 20 Louis Vuitton trunks. My furs alone take up three and then another two for my makeup and La Mer. Not to mention, the shoes... So you are trapped at the airport lounge, flustered and worried about wrinkling your silk chiffon blouse on those dirty leather chairs. Can’t they create something more welcoming, like, a suite with liveried servants and a proper spa? I wouldn’t mind a shot of Botox to relax my forehead. Anyhow, I was getting all worked up about the chauffeur waiting for us at the Helsinki airport. What will I do if he leaves? I mean, I refuse to take one of those vulgar yellow taxis with the smell of their garlicky lunch and their mistresses barking on the telephone and Scandinavian pop blaring. My chauffeurs are required to wear Armani suits and to look like models, just like Karl’s army of Adonises. I mean, how often do I get a break from my large, polo shirt clad, barbecue king of a husband? Bien sûr, what awaited me in Helsinki was a whirlwind of culture and enough shopping to satisfy my large appetite. Despite being obsessed with their vodka and saunas (there is one sauna for every two Finns, and they pronounce it sauuuuna, just like we would back home) Finland, I discovered, has wonderful architecture and design. I took pictures of everything: the tall thin blond waiters, the minimalist buildings of Alvar Aalto and the flower prints of Marimekko. I mean, did you know Finland is the capital of design for 2012? That is why I was there, always ahead of the curve (and the blondes, LOL). While I sipped a kir royal with vintage Ruinart and
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
VISIONS
SAGAS
81
61
Lingonberries (they make your skin look younger) at the Kemp hotel’s top floor bar, I contemplated the dark cityscape dotted with lakes. Ahhh, c’est si joli! The next day I visited the Design Forum, where I found lovely little ceramic bowls that will make perfect Christmas presents. I sat down and drank black tea while wondering how these lovely people survived in the winter, when the temperature drops to colder than my freezer and the light is as rare as caviar in Nevada. I was wearing only a teeny Versace dress and no stockings (there was no room in my trunks!) so I turned blue. Only then did I understand the necessity of saunas and vodka. I’d had enough of smoked fish and saunas, so I decided to test-drive the new Allegro high speed train to St Petersburg. In less than two hours, and several tall handsome men later, I was admiring the pastel facades of the former Leningrad. Now I could finally pull out my thick fur coat, which I rarely get to wear in my native Dallas. The Prada sunglasses had a great effect on the locals, who taught me how to say “I love you”: “Yellowbluebus.” Well, even for someone as language challenged as moi, it was an easy learn. I subsequently used it with drivers, servants, tout le monde! – and believe me, I had wonderful service in St Petersburg. Except that my guide, Olga, kept pulling me away from the marvelous boutiques on Nevsky Prospekt because, she said, Americans needed to get cultured. So there I was at the Hermitage having a lunch of tired salmon in my white YSL tuxedo at the staff cafeteria. No caviar there of course. A charming lady from the media department even came out to show me the iconic Malevich black square, which, as you all hopefully know, is the first work of contemporary art, ever. Wait until I tell my girlfriends at the golf club back home! WINTER 2011
97
98
14
THE CIRCLE
I N S TA N C E S I N T I M E
30
SAGAS
61
VISIONS
81
Workshop n impeccable after-sales service is available through our own watchmakers who are at the client’s disposal, to assure that the watch’s functions are on track, even after years of purchase. The ability to deliver, the quality of repairs and our
chronora
reliability help increase the satisfaction of our customers. Our after-sales service centre adheres to the latest technologies in watchmaking and to the highest standards of the brands represented. Our watchmakers are
trained through customized courses in the workshops of the brands A&S Chronora represents. This allows us to continue offering the highest guarantee to our clients for services that are in line with the worldwide standards of the best watch manufacturing companies.
Rolex Boutique
Chronora Boutique
GirardPerregaux Boutique
Allenby Street Downtown Beirut (T) +961 1 984 999 (F) +961 1 984 998
Beirut Souks Gold Souk Sector (T) +961 990 956 (F) +961 1 984 998
Beirut Souks Gold Souk Sector (T) +961 990 956 (F) +961 1 984 998