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Page 1



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DEPARTMENTS

TECH

8

24

FIRING UP

TOC

LS1 TO L79 How to Look SBC With a Gen III

10

PARTS BIN

36

SHORT-BLOCK WRAPUP Rounding Out the Rotating Assembly

14

CHEVY CONCEPTS

52

BOWTIE BONEYARD

HOW TO SET LASH A Simple Technique for Setting Mechanical Clearance or Hydraulic Lifter Preload

FEATURES

66

88

16

BUILT FROM SCRATCH Rick Foster’s 1969 Camaro

FEATURE OF THE MONTH

CAMARO CONNECTIONS Refreshing Our Camaro’s Steering and Brakes With Parts From Duralast

80

BLUEPRINT YOUR DRIVELINE A Quick-and-Easy Way to Measure Driveline Alignment

30

THAT’S LIFE Chris Decker’s 1967 El Camino

44

NOT YOUR BASIC STREET CAR Justin Keith’s 2019 Camaro

ON THE COVER

60

Everyone loves a story about a homebuilt hot rod and Rick Foster’s F-body is one of the best. His 1969 Camaro is a Pro Touring masterpiece—one that showcased his skills in building a badass Camaro in his home garage. See the full feature starting on page 16. Photography by Wes Allison

TRICKY TRI-FIVE Ron Rauso’s 1955 Chevy Restomod

74

SIMPLE RIDE Don Silaff’s 1966 Nova

OFFICIAL OE REPLACMENT PARTS OF

All Chevy Performance ISSN 27675068 (print) ISSN 2767-5076 (online) Issue 9 is published monthly by In the Garage Media, 370 E. Orangethorpe Avenue, Placentia, CA 92870-6502. Postage paid at Placentia, CA. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: All Chevy Performance c/o In the Garage Media, 1350 E. Chapman Ave #6550, Fullerton, CA 92834-6550 or email ITGM at subscription@ inthegaragemedia.com. Copyright (c) 2021 IN THE GARAGE MEDIA. Printed in the USA. The All Chevy Performance trademark is a registered trademark of In The Garage Media.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[3]

VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021




EDITORIAL DIRECTOR BRIAN BRENNAN bbrennan@inthegaragemedia.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF NICK LICATA nlicata@inthegaragemedia.com SENIOR EDITOR ROB FORTIER rfortier@inthegaragemedia.com PUBLISHER TIM FOSS tfoss@inthegaragemedia.com ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & OPERATIONS MANAGER YASMIN FAJATIN yfajatin@inthegaragemedia.com MANAGING EDITOR & AD COORDINATOR SARAH GONZALES sgonzales@inthegaragemedia.com ART DIRECTOR ROB MUNOZ EDITORIAL TEAM Wes Allison, Tommy Lee Byrd, Ron Ceridono, Grant Cox, Dominic Damato, Tavis Highlander, Jeff Huneycutt, Barry Kluczyk, Scotty Lachenauer, Jason Lubken, Steve Magnante, Ryan Manson, Jason Matthew, Josh Mishler, Evan Perkins, Richard Prince, Todd Ryden, Jason Scudellari, Jeff Smith, Tim Sutton, and Chuck Vranas – Writers and Photographers IN THE GARAGE MEDIA ON THE WEB AllChevyPerformance.com ClassicTruckPerformance.com ModernRodding.com InTheGarageMedia.com SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@inthegaragemedia.com ADVERTISING Mark Dewey National Sales Manager Patrick Walsh Sales Representative Travis Weeks Sales Representative ads@inthegaragemedia.com BACK ISSUES inthegaragemedia.com “Online Store” EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTIONS info@inthegaragemedia.com Editorial contributions are welcomed but editors recommend that contributors query first. Contribution inquiries should first be emailed to info@inthegaragemedia.com. Do not mail via USPS as we assume no responsibility for loss or damage thereto. IN THE GARAGE MEDIA reserves the right to use material at its discretion, and we reserve the right to edit material to meet our requirements. Upon publication, payment will be made at our current rate, and that said, payment will cover author’s and contributor’s rights of the contribution. Contributors’ act of emailing contribution shall constitute and express warranty that material is original and no infringement on the rights of others.

Copyright (c) 2021 IN THE GARAGE MEDIA. PRINTED IN U.S.A. The All Chevy Performance trademark is a registered trademark of In The Garage Media.


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RESELLERS LIST

1964 GTO HEADLIGHT BEZEL Missing an issue? Please contact one of our resellers listed below. Want to sell one of our titles in your store or shop? Contact us at subscriptions@ inthegaragemedia.com Nitroactive.net Orange, CA nitroactive.net Autobooks-Aerobooks Burbank, CA (818) 845-0707 autobooks-aerobooks.com National Speed Center Inc. Manchester, CT (860) 647-1353 nationalspeed.com Hot Rod Paper Company Youngstown, OH (800) 676-3026 gadmak@aol.com Pasteiner’s Birmingham, MI (248) 646-2886 pasteiners.com Reader’s World (616) 396-4600 readersworldbookstore.com Horton Hot Rod Parts Ontario, Canada (905) 876-2124 hortonhotrod.ca

HL05-64P .......Headlight Bezel (Pair) Drivers=Passenger

1969 CAMARO DASH

DP01-695 ...............Pre-Cut Center Clock

1957 CHEVY REAR BUMPER

BU13-573R................................................................... Chevy Nomad/Wagon, Smoothie

1965 IMPALA RADIATOR SUPPORT

CS13-65 ....................... Radiator Support

1982-92 F-BODY T-TOP CENTER RAIL WITH RIDGE

RF01-82C .........T-Top Center with Ridge, SS

1970-81 CAMARO REAR SPOILER SL01-74RL/RR ............................................ 1974-81 Corner - Dr/Ps SL01-70RC .................................................. 1970-81 F-Body Center

1978-87 G-BODY HOOD INSTALLATION KIT

Graffiti Publications Victoria 3450 Australia graffitipub.com.au One56 Björklinge, Sweden one56.se

HO12-78SK ...............G-Body (Except Regal) Hood Installation Kit

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FIRING UP

InTheGarageMedia.com

song and not mimic the drums at the beginning on your steering wheel. It’s also unimaginable listening to without playing air guitar. This song must be turned up to 11–it’s mandatory. 5. “Heading out to the Highway” by Judas Priest. Not the most famous ’Priest song but the dueling guitars by K.K. Downing and Glenn Tipton are epic on this track. Don’t watch the video, though; it’s super cheesy. You’ve been warned. 6. “Slow Ride” by Foghat. This song is a staple of the mid ’70s. Just about everyone had it blasting from their car stereo’s 8-track player

BY NICK LICATA

DRIVIN’ TUNES

H

at the time, so it makes the list by default. 7. “Lowrider” by War. This one makes the list because it’s just so damn cool. Growing up in Southern California during the ’70s

ot rods and rock ’n’ roll–they go hand in hand, like

lowriders were a huge part of the local car culture—they still are.

peanut butter and jelly, chips and salsa, bangers

Besides, I don’t recall anyone ever changing the channel when this

and mash, rum and coke, you get the idea. Rock

song came on the radio.

music was and continues to be the soundtrack of

8. “Kickstart My Heart” by Mötley Crüe. This one from the bad boys

car culture throughout the country. Looking back at the movie

of L.A. starts out with a guitar emulating the sound of a car banging

American Graffiti, where ’50s rock music was mixed into the

through the gears (à la Ronnie Montrose on Bad Motor Scooter). The

scenes, it was as if there were speakers wired up and down

booming bass and drums are relentless and make you want to drive

the boulevard–wired because, you know, no Bluetooth.

faster than you should. 9. “Born To Be Wild” by Steppenwolf. This one is grandfathered in.

With music playing such an important role in the car scene,

It’s pretty much mandatory on every driving-related list.

I’ve decided to put together a Top 10 list of songs that, to me, characterize hot rodding and/or make great driving songs.

10. “Maybellene” by Chuck Berry. This one gets in by lyrical content,

Now, I know your list will be different than mine, and it should

alone, as it sounds like Mr. Berry was going 110 mph in his Cadillac to

be. Many of you will be thinking ”Dude, how could you leave

catch Maybelline at the top of the hill. If you know how brakes work on

that song off the list?” Knowing this, I’m probably putting my

an old Cadillac, we are betting it took old Chuckie a good quarter-mile to get that thing to a stop. Musically, the song just chugs along like a big

life at risk, but this is my list and there is only room for 10. It

ol’ steam train. Good stuff.

was difficult to leave off so many great songs, as I could have easily listed hundreds more.

I could have included a few more older songs from the ’50s

Here is my Top 10 hot rod/driving songs in no particular order:

and ’60s and even some from today, but the songs on this list represent an era of music that I remember as a teenager growing up in the ’70s. With that said, email me your Top 10 list of favorite

1. “Little Deuce Coupe” by the Beach Boys. This song always makes

hot rod or driving songs. I bet you have some good ones.

me think about one day owning a 1932 Ford, but I’d have to sell my 1971 Camaro—and that ain’t happening.

You in? 2. “Interstate Love Song” by Stone Temple Pilots. This song has one

If you grew up in the late ’60s and ’70s then it’s likely a Foghat tape got stuck in your 8-track player at some point.

of the coolest driving guitar riffs. It starts out mellow then the guitar hook grabs hold and keeps driving through the whole song. The video of Scott Weiland driving through the desert in a crusty old Cadillac adds to the experience. 3. “Highway to Hell” by AC/DC. The lyrics, the heavy guitar, the big drums, the driving bass. It’s all here. Next! 4. “You Shook Me All Night Long” by AC/DC. Yes, another one by AC/ DC, but in my defense, it’s pretty much impossible to listen to this

I want to hear from you. Email me at nlicata@inthegaragemedia.com ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[8]

VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021



ACP

PARTS BIN

InTheGarageMedia.com

BY NICK LICATA

1

2

3

3. COMPACT DRIVE SYSTEM

1. GO-SPARK COILS

2. RESTOMOD PEDAL PADS

FiTech EFI has extended their line of Go-Spark ignition products to include a new LS3 coil upgrade. These new coils will help complete your LS EFI swap or even update your modern muscle car with a fresh jolt of energy. The Go-Spark LS Coils were developed to deliver optimum output with quality fit and reliability. The coils bolt in place of the originals and accept the sealed, locking connector and plug wire terminal for a simple upgrade. They also offer a coil with a built-in LED that flashes when the coil is firing.

Lokar’s new RestoMod series of throttle assemblies and pedal pads are the perfect addition for ’50s-’70s muscle cars. Styling cues from the OEM versions keep it clean and simple, while modern touches give them a contemporary look. Machined from aluminum, the throttle assemblies are a direct fit for most popular applications and are available in brushed- or black-anodized finishes. E-brake and dimmer switch covers are also available to complete the look.

Vintage Air announces the release of its all-new Cast Front Runner drive system for GM LT1 and LS engines. The new Cast Front Runner provides a simple and more compact solution for mounting front drive accessories to LT1 and LS engine–equipped vehicles. This system is the shortest and most compact front-drive system available, which provides more package space for electric fan modules and accessories. Additionally, the low-profile casting clears OEM and most aftermarket throttle bodies without a wedge spacer and are available in power steering or non-power steering configurations and several finish options.

For more information, contact FiTech Fuel Injection by calling (951) 3402624 or visit fitechefi.com.

For more information, contact Lokar by calling (877) 469-7440 or visit lokar.com.

For more information, contact Vintage Air by calling (800) 862-6658 or visit vintageair.com.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [10] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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PARTS BIN

InTheGarageMedia.com

4

6

5

4. ADJUSTABLE LEAF SPRING PADS

5. GET PUMPED

6. LOW GLOSS CLEARCOAT

Speedway Motors leaf spring pads start as ¼-inch plate steel that are laser cut and CNC-machined to fit your 3-inch-diameter axle tubes and work with both stock and aftermarket leaf spring U-bolts. They ship as bare steel components, so there is no paint or powdercoating to remove for welding. The rear axle spring perches feature a slotted leaf spring center bolt pin pocket that is machined to accept the included offset key inserts requiring no welding of the insert to the pad. The kit includes a pair of leaf spring pads and a pair of each key insert for 0-inch offset, 1/ 8-inch offset, or ¼-inch offset and are reversible.

New for 2021 is the Granatelli Motor Sports 12-Volt Electric Vacuum Pump Kit. The Granatelli design utilizes a rotary vein-style pump with an enlarged diaphragm to ensure maximum suction while remaining quiet and vibrationfree. Utilizing an MAVP (manifold absolute vacuum pressure) sensor, it eliminates the need for old-school vacuum switches and relays. It comes in four standard configurations: bare (no outer shell), black, chrome, or gunmetal gray ABS plastic outer shell. It also comes with 5 feet of 3/8-inch supporting vacuum hose, proper wiring harnesses, and vibration dampeners all while maintaining a common mounting hole configuration.

PPG recently announced the launch of its 2.1 Low VOC Matte and Semi-Gloss Clearcoats for use with the Envirobase High Performance basecoat system in the United States and Canada. Comprised of two premium-quality 2K acrylic urethane clears, the system can reproduce a range of gloss levels— making it ideal for performing refinish repairs on low-gloss finishes. EC5515 Low VOC Matte Clear and EC5517 Low VOC Semi-Gloss Clear offer the versatility of being used alone or mixed together to more precisely reproduce the OE finish, especially when adjustments are needed to match a range of gloss levels. Mixing formulas are available before topcoating in five gloss levels: flat, matte, eggshell, satin, and semigloss.

For more information, contact Speedway Motors by calling (800) 9790122 or visit speedwaymotors.com.

For more information, contact Granatelli Motor Sports by calling (805) 486-6644 or visit granatellimotorsports.com.

For more information, contact PPG by calling (800) 647-6050 or visit ppgrefinish.com.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[12] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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CHEVY CONCEPTS

TEXT AND RENDERING BY TAVIS HIGHLANDER

S

ubtle and over the top are both common

Digging deeper is where the over-the-top elements come

characteristics of high-end show cars these days.

into play with thoughtful execution. An Art Morrison GT Sport

It’s usually one or the other, though. This 1966

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Vette is setting out to be both, and if there’s one

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The overall appearance and general impression of the car is

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engineering techniques.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[14] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


InTheGarageMedia.com

@TavisHighlander TavisHighlander.com Vehicle Build by: Kuhnhausen Metal Concepts, Creswell, Oregon

1966 CHEVY CORVETTE ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[15] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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FEATURE

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES


InTheGarageMedia.com

BY NICK LICATA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY WES ALLISON

started wrenching, pulling engines, and having my first big-block machined and then assembling it myself. Later on I had a 1970 Chevelle and even a Mopar for a short time. That was followed by another 1969 Camaro and then I went the Pro Street route with a 1967 Camaro. It had a 540ci engine topped with an 8-71 blower. It was nasty.” After owning so many big-horsepower cars, Rick decided to build something geared more toward the street. But it still had to be something totally kick ass. “The whole Pro Touring build style was very attractive to me,” Rick claims. “With these cars, you get the best of both worlds: they can be built with a lot of power yet be totally reliable and street compliant.

RICK FOSTER’S HOME RECIPE FOR BUILDING A TOP-NOTCH PRO TOURING 1969 CAMARO

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES


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FEATURE

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES


InTheGarageMedia.com

With the Pro Touring movement piquing Rick’s interest, he sold

BluePrint Engines stroked 427ci LS3. The stout mill comes in

the Pro Street 1967 and started the hunt for a new project–

at 11:1 compression and consists of an OEM block bored 4.069

something he could start from scratch and build entirely with

inches with a 4.125-inch stroke. The bullet is topped with an

his own vision. Doing an online search, he came across this

LS3 intake manifold and sucks atmosphere through an 87mm

1969 Camaro. It was basically a shell and came with only doors

drive-by-wire throttle body, with fuel delivery being handled by

and a decklid but appeared to have very little rust. When he

42 lb/hr fuel injectors and returnless fuel rails. A Drive Junky LS

went to look at the car in person it was on a metal cart with no

serpentine system runs the accessories. Exhaust exits via a pair

suspension, no engine, no interior, no nothing. Rick pulled the

of Ultimate Headers stainless headers, custom 3-inch exhaust,

trigger. Rick got busy. He got dirty and he got challenged, but he

slightly restrained by a set of Black Widow Venom 250 mufflers.

remained determined. “I wanted to build a Pro Touring Camaro

A TREMEC T56 transmission backed by a Monster single-disc

my way and with the best parts—something I could be proud of

clutch allows crisp, high-rpm shifting and provides ample

when this thing hits the road.” Rick says. “I replaced the floors,

strength to handle the grunt generated by the potent LS weapon.

patched some small rust spots around the doors, windows, and dash. It was a lot of work, but I was all in.”

Keeping in tune with the Pro Touring motif, Rick dialed in a Speedtech subframe up front armed with their tubular control

The four-year endeavor included a lot of late nights welding and

arms anchored with Viking double-adjustable coilover shocks.

wrenching, but the outcome was worth every bloodied knuckle

Out back, a quick performance 9-inch rear stuffed with

and numerous swear words—words we’ll just let flounder within

3.89 cogs, a Wavectrac limited slip and 31-spline axles are

the walls of Rick’s garage.

accompanied by a RideTech four-link and double-adjustable shocks. Detroit Speed subframe connectors tie it all together.

Rick tided up the sheetmetal then smoothed the firewall. He

This top-shelf suspension system is a far cry from the inefficient

created a sano engine room in preparation for the arrival of the

turning capability of his earlier Pro Street Camaro.

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES


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FEATURE

InTheGarageMedia.com

For stopping obligations, Rick employed Wilwood 14-inch plates

down the spicy pigment throughout the factory and Auto Metal

and six-piston binders up front, and 14-inchers with four-piston

Direct aftermarket sheetmetal. The gaps were done pristine

binders out back. Consistent pedal effort is because of the

and proper. Certainly not his first rodeo, Rick’s design ability

Wilwood Hydratach master cylinder. Continuing to capture the

took the lead and he mixed in carbon-fiber side mirrors, rear

Pro Touring narrative, wide Rushforth Rated X wheels (18x10

spoiler, and rear bumper for further personalization and flair.

front, 19x12 rear) inhabit all four corners, while Michelin Super

The Ringbrothers hood hinges and door handles add a subtle

Sport rubber (275/35R18 front, 325/30R19 rear) retains a firm

but effective touch.

grasp on the tarmac. It’s rare to come across a homebuilt car constructed to the The business center features a combination of performance

magnitude of this stunning 1969 Camaro. Rick took the tried-

components blended with comfort-offering necessities, including

and-true approach yet created a car well above the familiar sea

a set of Recaro Sportster seats garnished with a set of Crow

of Pro Touring first-gen Camaros—red ones at that.

lap belts. A Vintage Air A/C system keeps the cockpit temps cozy. A Detroit Speed dash employs a set of Auto Meter gauges

Rick admits the challenge of dealing with rust removal and some

for tracking engine vitals while a MOMO steering wheel sits

of the final wiring set back the timeline on getting the car on the

atop a Flaming River steering column. The Clayton Machine

road, but he sucked it up and persevered. “Starting it up the first

Works shifter and pedals contrast perfectly with the black TMI

time and driving it down my street made it all worthwhile.” Rick

carpeting to provide an engaging ensemble that generates

states. “Even today, I feel the same excitement when I fire it up

additional style to the performance-driven theme.

to go for a cruise. The way it sounds, the way it handles—it’s just a fun car to drive.”

Contributing to the car’s boisterous character, the exterior is coated in PPG Salsa Red, which gives the car a vibrant

We can only hope Rick Foster’s 1969 Camaro will have the

personality and aggressive attitude—all part of Rick’s Pro

same influence on someone today just as the cars in those

Touring recipe. No End Customs (Morgan Hill, California) took

old hot rod magazines did with him back in his high school

the Camaro to the absolute next level by performing precise

days. And, who knows, maybe Pee-Chee folders will make a

bodywork (rear seams and cowl welded smooth) and laying

comeback. Nah, that’s a bit of a stretch.

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES


NHRA Pro Stock World Champion Erica Enders (Elite Motorsports)

NHRA Top Dragster World Champion Anthony Bertozzi

George Poteet’s “Speed Demon” Bonneville record holder (482 mph)

J.R. Gottlieb’s “Big Red” Camaro… a record-holder in many venues

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ACP

FEATURE

TECH OWNER: Rick Foster, Huntington Beach, California VEHICLE: 1969 Chevy Camaro Engine TYPE: BluePrint Chevrolet LS3 DISPLACEMENT: 427 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 11:1 BORE: 4.069 inches STROKE: 4.125 inches CYLINDER HEADS: Aluminum, 72cc chamber, 2.165-inch intake/1.600 exhaust valves, 259cc intake/102cc exhaust runners ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Forged crankshaft, forged 6.125-inch connecting rods, forged pistons VALVETRAIN: Stock GM LT5 CAMSHAFT: Hydraulic roller 0.624 intake/0.624 exhaust lift, 239 intake/255 exhaust duration at 0.050, 114-degree lobe separation INDUCTION: LS3 intake manifold, 87mm LT5 drive-by-wire throttle body, 42 lb/hr injectors ASSEMBLY: BluePrint EXHAUST: Ultimate Headers stainless headers, 3-inch custom exhaust, Black Widow Venom 250 mufflers ANCILLARIES: Drive Junky accessory drive system, C&R Racing aluminum radiator, Powermaster 180-amp alternator, Ringbrothers hood hinges, SPAL dual electric fans, American Autowire wiring kit, Rick’s Tanks notched, Vaporworx ZL1 fuel pump OUTPUT: 625 hp / 565 lb-ft Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: TREMEC Magnum T56 six-speed manual CLUTCH: Monster single disc REAR AXLE: Quick Performance 9-inch, Wavetrac differential, 3.89:1 gears, 31-spline axles

FEATURE OF THE MONTH SPONSORED BY OPTIMA BATTERIES

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Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Speedtech subframe, GM spindles, Viking doubleadjustable coilover shocks, Detroit Speed subframe connectors REAR SUSPENSION: RideTech 4 Link, RideTech double-adjustable coilover shocks BRAKES: Wilwood 14-inch rotors with six-piston calipers front, Wilwood 14-inch rotors with four-piston calipers rear Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Rushforth Rated X; 18×10 front, 19×12 rear TIRES: Michelin Super Sport; 275/35R18 front, 325/30R19 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: TMI black loop carpet DOOR PANELS: Deluxe GM CENTER CONSOLE: Gen 5 Camaro SEATS: Recaro Sportster SEATBELTS: Crow lap belt STEERING: Flaming River column, MOMO steering wheel SHIFTER: Clayton Machine Works PEDALS: Clayton Machine Works DASH: Detroit Speed INSTRUMENTATION: Auto Meter HVAC: Vintage Air HEAD UNIT: Kenwood SPEAKERS: Focal front and rear, JBL subwoofer Exterior BODYWORK AND PAINT: No End Customs (Morgan Hill, California) PAINT: PPG Salsa Red HOOD: Auto Metal Direct Cowl GRILLE: RS BUMPERS: GM Endura front, Anvil Auto carbon-fiber rear OUTSIDE MIRRORS: Anvil Auto carbon fiber DOOR HANDLES: Ringbrothers TAILLIGHTS: Stock RS with DIGI-TAILS LED



ACP TECH

HOW TO LOOK SBC WITH A GEN III

LS1 TO L79 BY TODD RYDEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

A

bout the only downfall of the GM LS engine platform is the engine’s overall aesthetics. This is especially true when it comes to LS swaps in muscle cars, classics, and vintage hot rods. The eight coil packs and that unsightly plastic intake manifold with sensors and wires scattered just don’t look at home under the hood of a traditional Tri-Five or vintage Nova. There are a several adapters available these days that allow you to cover the coil packs or change valve covers and even a few four-barrel-style intakes if you choose to go that route. One company that has taken LS beautification to an all-new level is LS Classic Series. Started by a Corvette restoration company and now owned by Lokar, LS Classic not only offers direct-fit cast aluminum script valve covers (that do not require adapters) and billet valley pans with the front oil fill tube, but they also designed complete cast intake manifolds reminiscent of the early GM mechanical fuel injection systems. They can even make your LS look like a big-block or 409!

One of the keys to any LS appearance upgrade is to remove the coils from the valve covers. Not only does LS Classic offer trick remote coil mounts, but they also developed a faux distributor that gives you the ability to route the spark plug wires through it and back to the new coil locations. The distributor is fitted with a points-style cap and is hollow so the wires simply pass through the housing, creating a clean and quite sneaky way to route the plug wires. How’s that for LS trickery? We have a languishing 1966 Nova SS project that is getting updated with an LS1. Years ago we painted the engine Chevy orange with the plans to run a carburetor or throttle body on a Chevy Performance intake. The goal was to give our LS1 the look of an L79, the rare 327 engine option that cranked out 350 hp. We even added a set of valve cover adapters years ago so we could run the original chrome covers, but that was about the extent of our prepwork. It was a good start, but we definitely fell short of making the engine look like a traditional 327. With a little more help from LS Classic, our vision is coming into focus and has given us a boost to get this project shifted into high gear.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [24] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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1. 1. What’s that distributor fit you ask? A modern LS of course, that is, if you’re looking for classic looks from your LS. LS Classic Series specializes in making your LS engine look more at home in your muscle car, and we’re trying out their distributor and plug wire set to move the coils off the valve covers as well as their valley pan cover with a front vent and oil fill.

2.

2-3. The distributor from LS Classic takes coil relocation to another level. There are no terminals in the cap so the wires can be routed straight through the hollow distributor shaft and out to wherever you mount to the LS coils.

3.

5.

4.

4. LS Classic provides high-quality suppression-style plug wires rated at only 40 ohms per foot. Even if you were to use the full length (about 9 feet) you’d still have less than 400 ohms on each wire. The coil side terminal and boot are installed and multi-angle terminals and boots are provided for the spark plug side.

5. With our L79 appearance goal, we wanted to run a factory chrome 327 valve cover, so a set of LS-to-SBC adapters were sourced through Hedman Performance Group a long time ago. LS Classic offers a number of trick valve covers that bolt directly to LS heads, including classic bigblock or even W-motor valve covers.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [25] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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6.

6-7. The valve cover adapters fit to the LS head through a set of spacers and longer center bolts (a gasket, too, of course). Then another gasket is required to bolt the SBC cover in place. LS Classic offers a trick direct bolt-on cast aluminum Corvette script cover, but our tunnel vision was fixed on the factory-style chrome 327 Nova covers.

8.

7.

9.

8-9. The LS Classic valley pan is CNC machined to accept an O-ring gasket for a clean, secure seal to the engine. The cover also features a front oil fill tube, which is key to creating a vintage visual. The pan cover has an as-cast finish on top, and we just couldn’t bring ourselves to paint it orange … the jury is still out on that. Note that if you plan to run EFI still the OEM knock sensors can be relocated to the sides of the block.

10.

11.

10. Back to the distributor. It simply installs to the back two valley cover retaining bolts and has adjustment slots to help clear the firewall or air cleaner, just like you need to consider on a standard SBC. Our LS1 has the cam sensor in the rear of the block, but will still fit. The oil pressure sensor will be moved down to the bypass cover over the filter.

12.

11. Our plan all along was to use an aluminum intake such as this early version from Chevrolet Performance. Edelbrock, Holley, and other companies offer dual- and single-plane intakes to accept a carburetor or throttle body for fuel injection. 12. LS Classic offers a trick remote coil mount that secures four of the common LS3 coils and is easy to mount. Our coils were on back order but to illustrate the assembly we used our stock LS1 series coils. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [26] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


REALIZED

FREE CATALOG 1-888-816-2897 classicindustries.com/catalogs America’s First Choice in Restoration and Performance Parts and Accessories


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13. Back to the spark plug wires. We started by routing the plug wires up and through the distributor housing since the LS coil side of the wire already has the boot and terminal terminated. And to answer your question, yes, they even provide a coil wire with terminals, too.

14.

13.

14. LS Classic thought of everything, including a 90-degree socket boot to secure and route the plug wire into the cap. You can decide to keep the wires routed to each bank for a cleaner appearance, or try to follow the SBC firing order. Either way, when you connect the coils, make sure everything is wired in the correct order (by the way, the LS firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 rather than a small-block of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2).

15.

16.

17.

15. A multi-angle terminal and boot are supplied for the spark plug side. A set of crimping pliers will be required to finish the wires. 16. We’re not sure if we’ll be using manifolds or headers. For now, and to assist in routing the wires, we installed the factory cast-iron manifolds. Once the factory heat shields are removed, the OEM manifolds look pretty decent all in all. 17. We topped our Chevy intake off with an Atomic Throttle Body from MSD. We like the looks of a throttle body versus a port fuel setup to keep the modern fuel injection technology hidden under the air cleaner.

18. 18. Topping off the system is the unique L79 Nova dual snorkel air cleaner. The plug wires, distributor and front oil fill really sell the engine as a small-block to most people passing by, while the performance and reliability of a modern driveline is at the beckon of our right foot!

SOURCE LS CLASSIC SERIES BY LOKAR (877) 469-7440 lsclassic.com

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [28] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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FEATURE

GROWING UP IN THE FAST LANE

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [30] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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BY FUELISH MEDIA

I

t’s sad to say but most of us probably haven’t hung onto our first vehicles. Granted, some of our first cars were P.O.S. hand-medowns from Mom, but a majority of us were lucky enough to have a legit set of wheels of our own right out of the gate. Sure,

that car may have been cool back then, but just imagine how much cooler it could be now with more experience and money to throw at it! While most car fiends can only dream about making progress to their first ride, there are a few who are experiencing the rare treat of still being able to wrench on them to this day. Chris Decker, of San Mateo, California, is among the lucky ones who held onto their very first vehicle. He didn’t crash or blow his car up like the rest of us probably ended up doing with ours. He actually took good care of his and has gone on to do some pretty cool things with it over the years. “I first bought the car in March of 1998— a couple months after turning 16,” Chris says. “My friends all had older muscle cars back in high school, but nobody had an El Camino. A family friend had a 1960 Elco, and I absolutely fell in love with it when I was a kid, so when I had the chance to buy one, I didn’t hesitate. I generally like having something that doesn’t blend in with the masses, so this car was perfect for me.”

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE

[31] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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FEATURE

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [32] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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Back then, Chris’ El Camino was a solid car. It had a mild small-block, an automatic transmission, and posi rearend— nothing crazy but perfect for a new driver. Needless to say, Chris was still a teenager and was always interested in blowing the doors off of his friends’ cars, so he started making some upgrades to the engine. A new cam, intake, headers, and even a full-on nitrous system found their way into the mix. Not sure what Chris was making in allowance at whatever after-school job he was able to land, but he was serious about always taking his precious Elky to the next level. Next came a 427ci big-block that made 427 hp, and a Chris Alston’s Chassisworks ’cage kit to beef up the chassis. This held Chris over for a few more years until 2007 when he decided he needed even more power underhood. To get there, he had Steve Schmidt Racing of Indianapolis build a 523 big-block race engine that made 900 hp, and was able to safely handle a 300 shot of nitrous. At this point, he only drove it to local car shows or to the dragstrip to race. When Chris wants to go fast, there’s just no stopping him—well, with the exception of the same stuff that tends to slow us all down, like growing up and facing real life responsibilities. While none of that is nearly as exciting as speeding down the track all day, we all have to chill out and take care of business before going out to play again. “As my life began to change, my car took a back seat in my life for a while,” Chris admits. “I got married, bought a house, and then began remodeling the entire house. It wasn’t until we had our first child and finished the remodel that I could start having fun with the Elky again.” Chris’ car changed right along with him as life took its natural twists and turns. Although the days of racing the car are most likely behind him, he did have a plan to get back in the driver seat, while hoping to share his passion with his son. While that meant having to go a different direction with the performance parts lineup, he was able to recognize that he could still make things interesting.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [33] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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FEATURE

TECH OWNER: Chris Decker, San Mateo, California VEHICLE: 1967 Chevrolet El Camino Engine TYPE: 2015 Chevy LS3 DISPLACEMENT: 377 ci COMPRESSION: 9.5:1 BORE: 4.070 STROKE: 3.625 CYLINDER HEADS: GM aluminum ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Callies DragonSlayer VALVETRAIN: Texas Speed Double Springs CAMSHAFT: Texas Speed Stage 3 INDUCTION: Whipple LS3 supercharger, FiTech throttle body and Ultimate LS Standalone ECU ASSEMBLY: Chris Decker and Chris Chandler FUEL SUPPLY: Rick’s stainless steel tank, two Walbro 525 pumps ACCESSORY DRIVE: Wegner Automotive WAK075 EXHAUST: MagnaFlow 3-inch stainless exhaust and mufflers OUTPUT: 800-plus hp, 700-plus lb-ft of torque

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“I ended up selling the big-block I had built for the car and all the components that bolted onto it,” Chris says. “I decided to start over with the car, and my new vision was to be able to take my son for a ride in the safest way possible.” The Elco was stripped of quite a bit of what made it awesome in the first place, but its new version was to be just as fun and reliable to drive on the street—not just at the track. Chris’ next adventure with his car would be geared toward having a blast with the family, and what would be more reliable and exciting than an LS3? “I loved drag racing, but I wanted to be able to take the car up a windy mountain road, so that’s the engine I ran with,” he says. “I also knew that with a better ‘everyday’ engine I’d have to come up with a better suspension setup, which is why I went with adjustable shocks to help give the car a different attitude for different driving conditions when I felt I could let loose with the car a bit more.” Now, you should know Chris well enough by now to know what he really means by ‘let loose,’ right? Yep, you guessed it—he still hasn’t quit his quest for more power but he would need more finesse with his gains now rather than settle for sheer brute power. “I was able to fulfill a childhood dream of having a roots-style supercharger,” he exclaims. “The Whipple 3.0L Gen 5 supercharger has been great and drove me to completely rebuild the LS3 with a full forged rotating assembly to support the 15 pounds of boost.”

Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: 2015 TREMEC T56 Magnum XL with McLeod RTX clutch REAR AXLE: Chevy12-bolt, Detroit TrueTrac limited slip Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Global West upper and lower control arms, steering knuckles, and antiroll bar, GM drum spindles, Eibach springs, QA1 coilovers REAR SUSPENSION: Four-link stock location Hotchkis boxed trailing arms, adjustable upper trailing arms, QA1 coilovers with Global West conversion BRAKES: Wilwood Forged Dynapro six-piston (front), four-piston (rear), GM master cylinder MISCELLANEOUS: 14-point chromoly rollcage

It’s safe to say that Chris won’t be separating from his El Camino anytime soon, but that should be obvious by now. The car has been with him from the beginning of his driving career, and he has proven that he still maintains a healthy interest in it. Through all the changes the car has been through, it still serves as a source of happiness for Chris, and that’s really what has kept him so close to it. “I’ve had some really good memories with this car. Getting to take my son for a ride in it was definitely my favorite one so far. Driving the car to SoCal for the Quarantine Cruise event was another exciting milestone, as it was a 400mile drive each way. There’s no way I could’ve done that when it was built to race.”

Wheels & Tires WHEELS: 18x8.5 and 18x10.5 Weld Racing S77 wheels TIRES: 245/40R18 and 305/45R18 Nitto 555/555R tires Interior UPHOLSTERY: Black vinyl SEATS: Distinctive Industries pro touring seats with Simpson Racing harness GAUGES: Auto Meter STEERING: ididit tilt column with OEMreplacement 1969 Chevelle steering wheel STEREO: Retrosound Hermosa head unit with 6x9 speakers Exterior BODYWORK & PAINT: Avery satin black wrap by SVO industries HOOD: Glasstek fiberglass GRILLE: OEM BUMPERS: OEM MISCELLANEOUS: Stretched rear wheelwells, shaved antenna, side molding, and gas door ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [34] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021



ACP TECH

W

ith the crankshaft installed in our Summit Racing small-block Chevy short-block, we’ve hit the first of many milestones when it comes to building an engine. The crankshaft is the

backbone of any engine, tasked with handling the stress of the

BY RYAN MANSON

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

internal combustion process and expected to survive every suck, bang, blow cycle. So, it’s no small feat to have the crank in its cradle

SHORT-BLOCK

WRAPUP ROUNDING OUT THE ROTATING ASSEMBLY

with all the specs checking out. It also means we get to advance to an even bigger milestone: installing the rotating assembly. Like the crankshaft installation, there are a number of things that need to check out before the piston and rod assemblies can be slid into their respective cylinders. Piston diameter to cylinder bore clearance, piston ring endgaps, connecting rod bearing to crank journal clearance, and connecting rod side clearance are but a few of the things that need to be checked carefully. We’ll be using similar tools and techniques that were used when we checked and installed the crankshaft, pointing out a few tips on the way. Once everything checks out, we should have a bulletproof bottom end, ready for many miles of reliable service. In addition to the rotating assembly, we’re also going to address the oiling system by installing a Summit oil pump, pan, and spin-on filter adapter. That will put us in a good spot to continue next month with the valvetrain installation.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [36] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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1.

1. With the 3.75-inch Summit Racing stroker crank installed in the short-block, it’s time to turn our attention to the rotating assembly. 2. We’re using a set of Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons, available from Summit Racing (PN SLP-H860CP), for our 377ci build. Like the crank, we need to check out a few things before any parts can be installed in the engine block. The most important item on the to-do list is to verify the proper piston-to-cylinder wall clearance. Piston manufacturers have a specific area in which to measure the diameter of the piston, with some including a feature on the piston skirt, such as this bare aluminum spot on our Speed Pro pistons. If your pistons aren’t marked, 0.700 inch above the bottom of the piston skirt and 90 degrees from the piston pin should yield an accurate measurement.

2.

3.

3. Using a set of outside micrometers (Summit PN POWPOW152006) once again, the piston is measured, our dial bore gauge zero’d to this measurement ... 4. … and the cylinder bore measured using said dial bore gauge (Summit PN CCA-5605). Using the same technique that we used to check the crank, this gives us a difference of 0.003750.00425 inch, depending on the cylinder. Using the fast and loose rule of 0.001 inch clearance per inch of bore, we’re right where we want to be.

4.

5. With the block and pistons a match, it’s time to turn our attention to the ring pack, as we need to file the top two compression rings for each cylinder.

5.

6.

6. Filing piston rings can be done using a variety of techniques, from a simple file to a powered ring filer. I like to use this manual ring filer from Summit Racing. It’s a little slow but allows one to “sneak up” on the proper endgap without going over. The first ring takes the longest, as there’s no way to tell how much material needs to be removed. I like to count the rotations of the filing handle, stopping periodically to check the endgap in the cylinder. Once the proper endgap is achieved, I have a rough number of turns it took to get there and can use that as a baseline for the rest of the rings. 7. This ring squaring tool came as part of Summit’s kit (PN SUM-CSUM2505), which included the manual ring filer. It’s used to consistently install the ring a predetermined depth in the cylinder bore so the endgap can be measured accurately. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [37] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021

7.


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8. The ring gap is then measured using a set of feeler gauges. The ring manufacturer should provide the specs for each compression ring. All the second rings are filed and placed in their respective cylinder before the top rings are filed. Since cylinder diameters can vary, it’s important to keep the filed rings with their respective cylinder throughout the assembly process.

9.

9. Eagle 5.7-inch forged 5140 steel H-beam rods from Summit Racing (PN ESP-5700BBLW) will be used to support the pistons. Their lightweight design helps reduce stress on the rotating assembly and come assembled with bushed pin ends and ARP Wave-Lok rod bolts.

8.

10.

10. Like the rest of the assembled components, the crank rod journals are measured and compared to the big end of the connecting rods (with bearings installed and rod bolts torqued to spec) to ensure proper clearance.

11.

12.

11. With the components checking out, it’s time to start assembling the rods and pistons, starting with one pin circlip. Note the orientation of the circlip, with the opening at the bottom. This prevents the clip from being “squeezed” during the piston’s travel and inadvertently coming loose. 12. With the connecting rod in place between the piston’s skirt, the pin is inserted, followed by another circlip.

13.

13. Mounting the rod and piston assembly in a vise makes easy work out of installing the piston rings, starting with the oil control rings. Note the location of the endgaps on the upper and lower oil rails. 14. To avoid damaging the two compression rings, an Adjustable Piston Ring Expander Plier, such as this item from Summit Racing (PN OTC-4839), is used to expand each ring just enough to clear the piston. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [38] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021

14.


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1971

2021

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15. Many rings are designed with a top and bottom and need to be installed as such. They’ll typically be marked to signify the top.

15.

16.

16. The piston rings are installed on this piston and it’s ready to be dropped into the cylinder. Note the location of the two compression ring endgaps in relation to each other and the piston. 17. Our eight piston assemblies are now ready for installation. It should be noted that the entire rotating assembly was balanced before assembly began by Revco Precision to ensure that the guts don’t vibrate themselves to death!

17.

18.

18. The fillet on the connecting rods needs to match the fillet on the crankshaft or you’re going to be looking at trouble. It’s important to get this oriented properly before installing the piston assemblies. The connecting rod bearings have tangs that line up with the connecting rod upper and lower halves and need to be installed accordingly.

19.

20.

19. An ARP piston ring compressor is the best way to get those pistons slid into the cylinder without nicking the piston rings. A liberal amount of break-in oil is applied to the cylinder walls as well as the piston rings to ensure everything slides gently into place.

21.

20. As each assembly is installed in the block, the rod bolts are torqued to 40 lb-ft and the crank spun to check for any issues. 21. Clearance between the rods as well as the rod and crank journals is measured and compared to manufacturer recommendations to ensure clearance is within spec.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [40] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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ACP TECH 22.

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23. The Summit Oil Pump features a welded pickup tube and comes with a mounting stud for ease of installation.

23.

24. We’ll be using a 5-quart Summit Stock Replacement Oil Pan (PN SUM-G3505B) in black. With a depth of 7½ inches, we need to double-check that it jives with the oil pump’s pickup location.

24.

22. While we’ve got the bottom of the engine in the air, we’ll install the Summit Racing Oil Pump and Pickup Kit (PN SES-360-08-001) that will be used to ensure our stroker is properly lubed at all times.

25.

26.

27.

27. With our attention directed at the oil system, we also took the time to install a Summit Spin-On Oil Filter Adapter (PN SME-2015). These adapters don’t have the high-pressure bypass valve found on stock filter mounts, ensuring that all oil travels through the filter before it enters the engine. 25. The total depth of the oil pan’s sump is 75/8 inches ... 26. … while the pump is 7³/8 inches from the rail to the bottom of the oil pump’s pickup, well within the recommended ¼- to ³/8-inch spec.

28.

28. Next month, we’ll return to install the camshaft, heads, and valvetrain, and cover what goes into determining compression ratio.

SOURCES AUTOMOTIVE RACING PRODUCTS (ARP) (800) 826-3045 arp-bolts.com CLAMPDOWN COMPETITION clampdowncomp.com COTATI SPEED SHOP (707) 586-8696 cotatispeedshop.com REVCO PRECISION (562) 428-7481 revcoprecision.com SUMMIT RACING (800) 230-3030 summitracing.com

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [42] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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FEATURE

NOT YOUR AVERAGE STREET CAR BY NICK LICATA

J

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRANT COX

ustin Keith knows what it takes to make horsepower in a late-model muscle car— he’s been upgrading his rides for over 17 years and he’s co-owner of Street Car

Takeover, a 19-race drag racing series that features classes from insane Street Outlaw to Daily Driver Mild 12:00 Index Class. He’s also the founder of Killer Performance KC, a shop out of Grain Valley, Missouri, that specializes in high-performance, late-model domestic cars. Suffice it to say, Justin is in the mix when it comes to building kick-ass street cars and straightline racing. He credits growing up among the local Kansas City car community as the seduction—the lure that got him hooked on the car culture. When we first met Justin he was throwing down a bunch of hurt in a 2017 ZL1 Camaro with a ProCharger supercharger. He made a bunch of noise and was having a blast with that car for a couple years, but when GM announced that Crush, a color about as close to Hugger Orange as you can get, would be available for the 2019 Camaro, he was all over it. He sold the 2017 Camaro to make room for a spanking-new 2019 model.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [44] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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JUSTIN KEITH’S 2019 CAMARO ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [45] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


ACP

FEATURE

Although Justin was enticed by the color, his main motivation was to

quarter-mile record was his. “To this day, that’s the most memorable

go out and set the stock ZL1 Camaro supercharger quarter-mile record.

moment I’ve had with the car,” Justin expressed.

But let’s back up a bit. Who in their right mind would take a new car with a scant 500 miles on the odometer and tear into the engine and

With Justin being the typical hot rodder, he got used to the

start swapping heads, change blower pulleys, and the low side fuel

power–he got complacent, so it was time to up the car’s game.

system to support copious amounts of E85? That would be Justin, and

Justin got with his crew at Killer Performance KC, discussed a

he did so in a matter of two weeks. In that slender amount of time,

plan, which led them to pull off the supercharged combination and

those mods brought the car up to 850 hp. In fact, the first time at the

come back with a twin-turbo setup from Comp Turbo Technology.

’strip, the car delivered a 9.67 e.t. at 143 mph all while carrying that

Once again it was no small feat, as Justin enlisted Late Model

“new car smell.” Sure, that was nice and all, but Justin had his sights

Engines (LME) out of Houston, for a sleeved, 2020, 390ci LT4

on breaking the record–that was the goal. Finally, on August 7, 2019

bullet armed with the goods to handle every bit of the 1,400 hp

at Maryland International Raceway, the car went 9.50 at 144–the new

and 1,100 lb-ft of torque the powerplant produced. The whole

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [46] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


InTheGarageMedia.com

gestation took just about two months, and the first time at the

Beyond the Menscer Motorsports springs and shocks up front,

track on 18 pounds of boost (it can safely take 30-plus pounds),

the factory suspension remains, including the stock Brembo

the car busted out a best quarter-mile blast of 8.64 e.t. at 157

six-piston calipers and 16-inch rotors. Out back, Justin dialed in

mph! “At this point, we are still dialing in the 60-foot times,”

Menscer Motorsports shocks and springs and brought on a set

Justin reveals. “So, we’ll add more boost as we go along.”

of CarlyleRacing brakes consisting of 13-inch rotors and fourpiston calipers.

An RPM Transmissions TH400 trans and Circle D Specialties torque converter effortlessly manages the grunt delivered by the

Weld S72 wheels (18x5 front, 15x10 rear) add a bunch of style

healthy LT, which sends twist to the GForce Performance Outlaw

to the Camaro, and the smaller-diameter rear wheels provide

axles via a GForce carbon-fiber driveshaft. B&M deals with

a suitable base for the substantial sidewalls of the 275/60R15

shifting chores, and amazingly, the stock rearend armed with

Mickey Thompson 275 Pro rubber out back, while the less-

2.85:1 cogs still holds up its end of the bargain.

demanding front wheels source MT 28x5x18 rubber.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [47] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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FEATURE

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“To me, the late-model ZL1 Camaros are a great bang for the

additional safety and to comply with track rules and regulations

buck, Justin states. “Off the showroom floor they make decent

for the 8-second times the car runs.”

power, they look great, and it’s a car I regularly drive on the street. It still has the stock rearend, full factory interior, good

When we asked Justin if he would have done anything different

tunes, and kick-ass air conditioning that blows super cold air.

with the most recent power upgrade on the car, he quickly

It’s just a great car; there’s not much more I could ask for.

responded: “Yeah, if I had to do it all over again, I’d have used

Sure, I could have bought a vintage car and spent a lot of time

bigger turbos.”

and money fidgeting with paint- and bodywork, and a bunch of costly interior modifications to make it look cool, but with this

Something tells us Justin’s ZL1 will be getting another boost in

car, all my effort went straight to performance. The only interior

power at some point. It’s the typical racer mentality–it’s what

modification is the eight-point RPM rollbar we installed for

car guys do.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [48] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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TECH OWNER: Justin Keith, Blue Springs, Missouri VEHICLE: 2019 ZL1 Chevy Camaro Engine TYPE: LME-prepped Chevrolet LT4 DISPLACEMENT: Sleeved 390 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 10:5.1 BORE: Stock STROKE: Stock CYLINDER HEADS: CID/LME Aluminum ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Callies Magnum crankshaft, Callies Ultra Billet connecting rods and Diamond forged pistons VALVESPRINGS: CID/LME CAMSHAFT: Futral Motorsports TT Cam ASSEMBLY: LME INDUCTION: Frankenstein Billet Intake, Holley Dominator EFI POWER ADDER: Comp Turbo Technology 6871 twin turbos EXHAUST: Huron Speed Headers, Huron Speed exhaust, no mufflers ANCILLARIES: Holley ignition, Katech valve covers OUTPUT: 1,400 hp, 1,100 lb-ft Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: RPM Transmissions TH400 (Anderson, Indiana) TORQUE CONVERTER: Circle D Specialties (Houston, Texas) SHIFTER: B&M DRIVESHAFT: GForce carbon fiber REAR AXLE: Stock GM rearend, GForce Outlaw axles, 2.85:1 gears Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Stock with Menscer Motorsports shocks and springs REAR SUSPENSION: Stock with Menscer springs and shocks BRAKES: Stock Brembo 16-inch rotors and six-piston calipers (front), CarlyleRacing 13-inch rotors and four-piston calipers (rear) Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Weld S72 18x5 (front), 15x10 (rear) TIRES: Mickey Thompson 28x5x18 (front), 275/60R15 (rear) Interior UPHOLSTERY: Factory SEATS: Stock STEERING: Stock SHIFTER: B&M PARACHUTE HANDLE: Motion Race Works billet release handle INSTRUMENTATION: Holley EFI RADIO: Stock HVAC: Stock ROLLCAGE: Eight-point RPM installed by Killer Performance KC Exterior BODYWORK & PAINT: GM PAINT: Crush HOOD: Stock ZL1 PARACHUTE: Stroud

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [50] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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BY JEFF SMITH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

HOW W TO SET LASH A SIMPLE TECHNIQUE FOR SETTING MECHANICAL CLEARANCE OR HYDRAULIC LIFTER PRELOAD

ith all modern engines either net lash or overhead cam hydraulics, there is an art form that is slowly being lost to history. For older engines with independent stud rocker arms, one of the procedures that was necessary and sometimes done incorrectly was the art of setting valve lash. Engines like a smallblock Chevy or Ford with mechanical lifters required a clearance between the rocker arm and the valve tip, which was usually set hot. Hydraulic lifters were less critical but still required a preload. Decades ago, this was done with the engine running and open valve covers, making a huge mess when the engine sprayed oil over the entire engine compartment from 16 tiny lawn sprinklers. Thankfully, we’ve progressed to a more civilized and far less messy way to accomplish this same task. The valve covers of course still have to be removed, but the engine doesn’t have to run. A sharp engine builder who has been lost to history created this simple procedure that we’ll now pass along for future engine enthusiasts. The procedure is simple and straightforward. There are other procedures that can be used, but we’ve found that this one is the simplest to remember and does not require you to memorize a firing order or where in the sequence the next step must originate. That can be confusing. This procedure also makes sense from a logic standpoint if you understand how camshafts work.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [52] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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1.

2.

The one rule is to always set lash or lifter preload on a rocker when the lifter is sitting on the base circle of the lobe. The base circle on a cam lobe is the area opposite from the maximum lift point on the lobe. Finding this position for the pair of lifters for a particular cylinder is actually pretty easy. We prefer to set lash or preload by first removing the spark plugs, which allows us to turn the engine over by hand. This is not critical and it can be done with a starter motor if the ignition has been disabled. 1. EO/IC stands for Exhaust Opening/ Intake Closing. We put this shortcut on the valve cover with a Sharpie as a reminder, but you could stash this code just about anywhere. 2. The base circle is the concentric portion of an eccentric lobe where the lifter is currently located in this illustration. This is the position the lobe and lifter must take in order to accurately set lash or preload.

3.

3. This Comp Cams illustration was originally intended to show lobe separation angle, but we’re using it to illustrate why with exhaust opening the intake lobe is on its base circle. As the cam rotates clockwise, the exhaust lifter will begin to rise– which positions the intake lobe on the base circle. Conversely, with the intake lobe halfway down its closing side, this places the lifter on the base circle of the exhaust lobe to set lash or preload.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [53] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021

Let’s begin the process by explaining that we’re going to set the clearance on each pair of lifters for one cylinder at a time by following the EO/IC (Exhaust Opening/Intake Closing) method. This is how it works. When turning the engine in a clockwise fashion (looking at it from the front) while watching the movement of the valves on Cylinder One, turn the engine until the exhaust valve begins to open. When this happens, this places the intake lobe for that cylinder on its base circle. This allows us then to set the lash or preload on the intake. In the case of a mechanical lifter engine, we would then set the lash. We’ll get into more detail on that later. Assuming the engine is up to temperature, we can set the intake lash. If the engine is equipped with hydraulic lifters, we can now set the preload, which is generally between a quarter- and a halfturn from zero lash. Again, we’ll detail how to establish that in a moment.


ACP TECH With lash or preload set on the intake, we can now slowly turn the engine again clockwise until the intake valve is halfway down the closing side. Once the intake valve reaches this point, this places the exhaust lobe on Cylinder One on the base circle. Now we can set lash/preload on the exhaust. With that accomplished, we can then turn the crank again and watch the lifters on the next cylinder in line on the head. We’ve found that setting the lifters sequentially down one head and then the other is simpler to execute. This does require turning the engine over a few more strokes than if you did this by firing order. You can certainly try that and see if it works for you. But we prefer to keep this really simple and just run down one side of the engine and then the other in sequence. Setting lash with a mechanical lifter engine requires a feeler gauge of the proper thickness–usually between 0.012 and 0.020 inch. With the engine hot, you can set the lash with the adjuster until there is a measurable tug that establishes this clearance. Establishing this is again personal preference. If the engine is cold or is a brand-new engine, the builder will have to compensate for how much the engine will grow or expand after reaching normal operating temperature. We’ve included a chart that was created by Crane Cams to show how much to compensate based on whether the engine is all iron, all aluminum, or an aluminum head and iron-block combination. As you can see from the chart, an alliron engine will require a 0.002-inch tighter clearance set cold as the iron components will not expand as much as the steel versions. However, an engine with aluminum heads will expand much more, so the lash will need to be tighter by 0.006 and 0.012 inch if the engine is all aluminum. These are not hard and fast rules but rather suggestions for setting lash on a cold engine. It’s recommended to recheck the lash once the engine achieves normal operating temperature.

4.

4. If you are unsure of which valve is the intake or exhaust, here’s a tip. With the valve cover removed, the valve that lines up with the exhaust pipe or header tube is obviously the exhaust while the other valve will be the intake.

5.

5. To illustrate how a hydraulic lifter operates, this is a cutaway of a Comp hydraulic roller lifter. The lifter piston is at the top of its travel in this photo. By applying preload of roughly half a turn or so, the lifter piston is pushed downward by roughly 0.050 inch, which allows the lifter to compensate for engine expansion from ambient to normal operating temperature.

COLD VS. HOT LASH BLOCK MATERIAL

HEAD MATERIAL

LASH ADJUSTMENT

IRON

IRON

ADD 0.002 INCH

IRON

ALUMINUM

SUBTRACT 0.006 INCH

ALUMINUM

ALUMINUM

7SUBTRACT 0.012 INCH

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [54] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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855.313.9173 SpeedwayMotors.com/allchevyperformance


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6.

6. With the lifter on the base circle, slowly tighten the adjuster while twisting the pushrod in between your fingers. Once zero lash is attained, you will feel the pushrod begin to tighten up. Be careful as some hydraulic lifters are very easily depressed so you really have to be careful. 7. Rotate the engine until the exhaust valve just starts to open. This is the EO position, which places the intake lifter on its base circle so it can be set with either lash or preload.

7.

One last point concerning valve lash and perhaps more of a commentary on an automotive myth. A common opinion is that mechanical lash should be checked “constantly” for street engines. That may be true even today if the engine builder uses those lame pinch nuts on a stud. Pinch nuts are notorious for loosening as they are heat cycled and adjusted. These nuts also tend to tear up threads on studs and frankly should be universally not used. Instead, invest in a set of poly locks that use an Allen locking nut to prevent the adjuster from moving. With the lash set with a poly lock, the adjustment will never alter unless something is either wearing or broken. Otherwise, the lash does not change. Hydraulic lifters were designed so that the owners did not have to check lash. The hydraulic portion of the lifter compensates for expansion in the engine by varying the position of the little piston inside the lifter. A small reservoir of oil constantly adjusts the clearance so that the valves are not held open when the engine is cold.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [56] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021



ACP TECH 8.

9.

10.

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8. With the intake lash/ preload set, now rotate the engine until the intake is roughly half closed. Now you can set the lash/preload on the exhaust side. Once that is set, you can move onto the next cylinder. 9. This is somewhat of an opinion rather than a fact, but pinch nuts should not even be used on stock engines. We prefer poly locks that can be easily set and then locked into position with the Allen lock. This prevents them from loosening up. We really like the ARP Perma-Loc adjusters because they offer a small ledge at the bottom of the 12-point that holds your box-end wrench in place and does not allow it to slip down over the lock.

The preload spec is the adjustment once zero lash has been determined. Zero lash is defined where all the clearance has been removed between the lifter, pushrod, rocker arm, and the valve tip with the lifter on the base circle of the lobe. Zero lash is easily found by slowly tightening the poly lock while twirling the pushrod in between your fingers. When zero lash is obtained, the pushrod will be much harder to twirl and all vertical clearance is gone. Preload varies depending upon who is offering the spec. The most common spec is between a quarter and half turn beyond zero lash. There’s not room in this story to enter the discussion of how preload affects engine operation at high speeds but additional preload (less distance between the hydraulic piston in the lifter and the bottom of the lifter body) has been shown to improve power. There you have it. While this is not the only way to set lash or preload it is the easiest to remember. Write it down on the inside lid of your toolbox or someplace where it’s easily located in case you forget–but it’s an easy way to set lash as long as you remember EO/IC.

10. Mechanical lifter cams require a lash setting using a feeler gauge. The standard recommendation is to set lash with a slight tug of resistance with the appropriate spec feeler gauge. The big variable is that each person sets lash a little differently.

SOURCES AUTOMOTIVE RACING PRODUCTS (ARP) (800) 826-3045 arp-bolts.com ISKENDERIAN RACING CAMS (310) 217-9232 iskycams.com SPEEDWAY MOTORS (800) 979-0122 speedwaymotors.com ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [58] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021



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ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [60] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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KNOCKING THE NAYSAYERS AND BUILDING THE 1955 THEY WANTED

BY SCOTTY LACHENAUER

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

S

ince his early youth, Ron Rauso of Long Branch, New Jersey, always had a thing for Chevy’s iconic 1955 model. It was that ever-accelerating admiration for the first-year Tri-Five that drove the teenager to snatch one up for his first dose of four-wheeled freedom shortly after earning his driver’s license. However, years later, it was his son, Christopher, who pushed his dad to revisit his youth and procure another 1955 Chevy for their first father-son build. Even though he was short on years, the young gun stepped up and helped dad build a Bowtie that was a blend of their ideas of what a 1955 should be, no matter what the skeptics said. From the start, Ron and Chris’ vision for their recently procured project 1955 was going to be completely of their own design. “We wanted to build it our way, which meant going against some of the tried-and-true recipes to achieve our goal. We were looking to buck the trends of typical traditional builds and put our own ideas to work that would modernize but, more importantly, make it perform and handle like a newer car, while retaining its vintage look,” Ron states. Slowly, the needy and much-maligned 1955 became roadworthy. The Chevy was driven and enjoyed for a couple years while being a hotbed of trial and error for some of the duos own modern ideas. Many of those innovations were done at the new shop, which Ron opened in 2011. “I opened up AutoWorks in Middletown, New Jersey, for Chris and three years later I joined him. We do all sorts of auto accessory work, with an emphasis on the electrical side, and of course hot rod builds for customers where Chris specializes,” Ron says. With the convenience of a full shop, the Chevy began taking shape. By this time the ride had seen more modifications, including a louvered hood and a fresh base/clear Mercedes black paintjob by C&M Body in Keyport, New Jersey. A new powerplant for the 1955 was also ordered. The stout 406ci mill was built up, starting with a Dart SHP block and adding a Scat rotating assembly, pushing 11:1 compression. It’s sent through the gears with a beefed-up TREMEC T56. “As far as the engine went, our goal was to build a 600hp naturally aspirated engine that would have street manners and be dependable enough to take on daily drives. We definitely achieved our goal,” Ron says.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [61] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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TECH OWNER: Ron Rauso VEHICLE: 1955 Chevy 210 Sport coupe Engine TYPE: Dart SHP small-block DISPLACEMENT: 406 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 11:1 BORE: 4.155 STROKE: 3.750 CYLINDER HEADS: AFR 220cc aluminum heads ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Scat forged crankshaft, Scat forged H-beam rods, PBM forged pistons VALVETRAIN: Jesel shaft rocker setup CAMSHAFT: Bullet solid roller cam 0.626/0.626 lift, 290/300 duration INDUCTION: Edelbrock Super Victor II, AED 1,000-cfm carburetor IGNITION: MSD Ready to Run Distributor, MSD 6AL-2 ignition control box, MSD Blaster SS coil EXHAUST: Doug’s headers, 3-inch X-pipe exhaust system with Borla mufflers OUTPUT (at crank): 600 hp Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: TREMEC T56 REAR AXLE: GM 12-bolt with Richmond 4.33 gears Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Williams Classic Chassis Works 3-inch drop spindles, SPC upper control arms, 2-inch lowered springs, Bilstein HD shocks, RideTech MuscleBar sway bar

REAR SUSPENSION: Posies Super Slider 3-inch drop leaves, 2-inch drop blocks, Viking B242 adjustable shocks BRAKES: Rear LS1 Camaro discs, front Corvette C5 13-inch brakes, Wilwood master cylinder Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Coys C5 18x7 front, 20x10 rear TIRES: Nitto Motivos, 225/50R18 front, Nitto 555R 275/40R20 drag radials Interior UPHOLSTERY: Ace Auto (Red Bank, New Jersey) MATERIAL: Leather substitute SEATS: 1964 Impala STEERING: CJ Rodz tilt wheel column, Billet Specialties steering wheel SHIFTER: B&M Ripper shifter DASH: Stock INSTRUMENTATION: Classic Instruments, Innovate Technologies air/fuel gauge AUDIO: Custom-fabricated hidden 400-watt audio HVAC: Stock Exterior BODYWORK: Owner PAINT BY: C&M Body (Keyport, New Jersey) PAINT: Mercedes black HOOD: Custom louvered GRILLE: Stock BUMPERS: Original modified by owner

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [62] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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Ride height was the next thing to get tackled, and the guys knew that they wanted it as low as possible without the use of airbags. “Again, attempting to buck the traditional methods of lowering, where an air-ride car is dropped at the show but driven at a higher height, we made suspension modifications to achieve a constant 5-inch drop, which would keep us down in the weeds,” Ron says. The front crossmember ends up with 3½ inches of clearance—just enough to handle New Jersey’s often-mangled roadways. When it came to the four corners, Ron had a set goal in mind when selecting the car’s wheel/tire combination. “A lot of guys make a big mistake when selecting the right rim and tire size. These massive stock wheelwells can take a big combo. We went with Coys C5 wheels, 18x7 up front and 20x10 out back. Chris and I then decided on a set of taller tires to help fill up those wheelwells; Nitto Motivos in 225/50R18 under the fenders and a pair of Nitto 555R 275/40R20 drag radials inside the rear quarters. They really gave us the look we were after,” Ron says. From here the boys’ work really started to shine. “We came up with a few one-off modifications we hadn’t seen done before,” Ron reveals. First mod was the headlights, which are custommade HID projector lights used on many Mercedes-Benz vehicles. The backgrounds (not lenses) are blacked out to keep the sinister look they were going for,” Chris adds. “We also designed the complete electrical system, including a bulkhead connector that can be disconnected at the firewall, a push-tostart system salvaged from a Nissan Altima, and an electronic parking brake from a 2015 Tesla P85; a setup that is triggered by a Mercedes S600 parking brake switch, which happens to

fit the curve of the dash perfectly and looks like it was born there,” Ron says. The interior was also modified to fit their needs. A set of 1964 Impala buckets were added, and the upholstery was done over in a leather substitute by Ace Auto in Red Bank, New Jersey. The stock dash is now stuffed with Classic Instruments gauges. An Innovate Technologies air/fuel gauge is an important addition to help the guys keep track of their major mill up front. A Billet Specialties steering wheel tops a CJ Rodz tilt wheel column. This twists a Concept 1 power steering box up front. One modification that seems to go unnoticed, except for the diehard Tri-Five guys, sits right up front. “One of the design flaws of the 1955 Chevy as far as I was concerned were the bumpers. I ordered up a new raw bumper and we cut 2 inches out of the front splash pan, allowing the bumper to be tucked up to the body for a snug fit, then sectioned 2 inches out of the sides to adjust for the 2-inch tuck. This helps it fit properly in respect to the wheelwells. Most people do not notice the mod since it now looks like it belongs, but it is gratifying when they do,” Ron adds. With this setup Ron and Chris have ran the car all over Jersey, bringing it to top shows where the Tri-Five has garnered plenty of awards and oohs and ahhs to boot. The Rausos’ stunning Chevy is often parked right out front of their Autoworks shop and has resulted in a good number of hot rod builds being completed over the years. “We currently have two Tri-Fives under construction, implementing several of the one-offs and mods that we tested on our 1955 build,” Ron states.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [64] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021



ACP TECH

REFRESHING OUR CAMARO’S STEERING AND BRAKES WITH DURALAST PARTS BY ACP STAFF VIDEOGRAPHY BY RYAN FOSS PRODUCTIONS

W

hen Chevrolet introduced the Camaro in 1967 it was sort of a design-it-yourself ponycar. Depending on the purchaser’s preference it could be had with a six-cylinder engine or small-block V-8s measuring 302, 327, or 350 ci or a 396ci bigblock. Of course it was the Z/28 302 option that would become legendary, but Chevrolet would continue to offer a variety of powertrain combinations in the Camaro from mild to wild. For most enthusiasts all first-generation Camaros (1967-1969), regardless of the drivetrain, are desirable—and we agree. They’re great-looking as well as light and nimble, making them a pleasure to drive. But, like all cars, they will suffer from the ravages of time and travel. As luck would have it, we were able to find an original 1969 Camaro. The coupe is presentable with fair paint and interior; underhood is the L14 optional engine, a 307ci V-8. While the temptation with such a find is to rip it apart and make a variety of modifications right away (which always takes longer than planned) our goal was to first make any needed repairs so we could drive and enjoy and make updates as time and money allow. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [66] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [67] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


ACP TECH 1.

InTheGarageMedia.com

1. Our first step in replacing the front suspension components was removing the front shocks. Here, Jason Scudellari holds the shock shaft with locking pliers and removes the nut and upper bushings.

2.

2. The bottom of the shocks are secured by two hex-head capscrews in the lower control arms.

3.

3. After removing the cotter pin and retaining nut, a pickle fork is used to separate the tie-rod ends from their attachment points.

4.

4. Tie-rod ends fit tightly due to the tapered pins. Worn tie-rod ends, like this crusty example, are often the source of sloppy steering.

5.

5. Another critical steering component that often needs to be replaced is the idler arm (arrow) . We used a Duralast idler arm (PN FA609). Here the centerlink is being removed, and again a pickle fork is used.

6.

6. Like the lower ball joint, the upper has a tapered pin that fits into the spindle. With the nut removed, a blow from a hammer will often loosen the spindle, or a large pickle fork can be used.

7.

7. Replacing the ball joints and bushings requires removing the spring. After separating the ball joint from the spindle, the bottom A-frame is carefully lowered with a jack until there is no tension on the spring.

8.

8. The lower ball joints are a press-fit into the A-frames. They are pushed out from the top with a hydraulic press.

9.

9. This is a new Duralast lower ball joint (PN FA993 X2). It meets or exceeds OE quality. Serrations on the body ensure a tight fit when pressed into the A-frame.

10.

10. Here, the ball joint has been pressed in place. Note the hole for a cotter pin that secures the castellated nut.

11.

11. The upper ball joints were also due for replacement. The spindle was separated and then the upper A-frame was removed. Scudellari kept track of the alignment shims so they could be replaced as they were.

12.

12. The original upper ball joints are secured with rivets. Scudellari used a small angle grinder to remove their heads and then drove out the remaining portions with a punch. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [68] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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13. Duralast’s OE replacement upper ball joints (PN FA487 X2) are held in place with high-strength bolts, simplifying the installation process.

14.

14. Typical of old components, the rubber in the upper and lower A-frame bushings had deteriorated allowing metal-to-metal contact. Worn bushings contribute to poor handling and noisy suspension.

15.

15. New Duralast bushings were pressed into the upper (shown) and lower A-frames (PNs FB149 X4 and FB295 X4). Note the bolts securing the new upper ball joint.

16.

16. With the new bushings installed in the upper A-frame, the cross shaft is secured with the factory washers and capscrews.

17.

17. The rebuilt A-frames were bolted in place, and the springs were then installed by raising the bottom A-frame with a floor jack.

18.

18. With the new ball joints installed and the springs and spindles back in place, we elected to install new Duralast sway bar endlinks (PN SL90HD X2) and bushings (PN FA986 X2) and twin-tube shock absorbers.

19.

21.

19. Before installing the new Duralast inner and outer tie-rod assemblies on each side (PNs ES681N X2, ES381R, ES350S X2), their lengths were adjusted to match the original parts (a frontend alignment will still be necessary). 20. The front drums were removed to inspect the brakes, and everything was found to be serviceable. Note these shoes use riveted linings.

20.

22.

21. Rear drums can be difficult to remove as they will often grip the center register on the axles. A few light blows with a hammer will often loosen them.

23.

22. Always check wheel cylinders and axle seals for signs of leakage. Any contamination should be removed with brake cleaner and the source repaired.

24.

23. Scudellari found the rear brake shoes were cracked in several locations, so new ones were ordered (Duralast PNs 245 rear, 246 front). 24. There are two different lengths of brake shoes for each wheel; the shoe with the short lining goes on the front of the backing plate.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [70] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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ACP TECH 25.

27.

28.

InTheGarageMedia.com

26.

25. Automatic brake adjusters have a variety of springs. If you’re not familiar with them, take one side apart at a time so you have an example to refer to. 26. Both the rear brake drums were worn past limits, but Duralast came to the rescue again with new replacements (PN 8798). Note the new rear shocks (PN TS32-30002B X2; front replacements are PN TS34-32021B X2). 27. Before installing the new Duralast master cylinder (PN NM 1505), Scudellari benchbled it by pumping the pistons until no air bubbles were seen in the reservoirs. The bleeding kit is included with the master cylinder.

29.

28. Our Camaro has drum brakes all around. Those with discs up front require a different master cylinder, as do those cars with power brakes. 29. For safety’s sake, Scudellari removed all the suspicious-looking brake hoses and installed new Duralast replacements.

30.

Once the Camaro was at the In The Garage Media Tech Center, Jason Scudellari tuned up the engine with Duralast OE replacement parts and then replaced the fluids in the transmission and rear axle. With the small-block humming, the transmission shifting properly, and no strange sounds from the rearend, all was well—almost. A testdrive and further inspection revealed there were a number of steering components that would require replacement, and the brakes were due for attention as well. Like all cars with independent front suspension our Camaro has lots of moving parts, and when they are worn, the ride quality deteriorates and the steering becomes sloppy and vague—maladies that were quickly apparent in our case. Then there were the brakes. A less-than-solid brake pedal indicated a master cylinder problem and we suspected it was time for new brake shoes. Fortunately, all those shortcomings are easy and affordable to eliminate with parts from Duralast, which can all be found at DuralastParts.com. Duralast parts are designed meet or exceed OE quality, so we knew the suspension and brakes on our Camaro would be good as new, but there was one more thing that needed to be done. When steering and suspension components are replaced the last step is having the frontend professionally aligned. Once that was taken care of we were ready to hit the road and enjoy cruising our classic Camaro in style.

30. Brake line fittings are notorious for stripping. Always use a fitting wrench on them rather than an open end. 31. All it took was a ride around the block to tell that the new suspension and steering components improved the Camaro’s road manners dramatically—and the solid brake pedal gave our confidence in traffic a boost.

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SOURCE DURALAST (800) 284-7491 DuralastParts.com ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [72] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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ACP

FEATURE

BY NICK LICATA

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN MILLER

SIMPLE RIDE DON SILAFF KEEPS HIS 1966 NOVA IN CRUISE MODE

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [74] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


InTheGarageMedia.com

“My brother and his friends built and reworked their cars, so

The 1937 convertible got sold to a woman who had been

that got me interested, too,” Don Silaff remembers. “At 18, I

stalking it for about three years. “I won a lot of awards with

bought my sister’s 1954 Chevy two-door Bel Air and started

the car and I really enjoyed it, but it was time for something

to make it mine. I rebuilt the 235 six-cylinder and added dual

different,” Don says. “With the 1937 gone I wanted a good ‘daily

exhaust, lowered it, and painted it gold with a touch of lime,

driver’ and I really liked the look of the 1966-1967 Novas.” An

painted the wheels black, and added baby Moons.”

online search led him to this 1966 in Pennsylvania. The car had A/C and a Mustang II frontend and was pretty much built, but

That’s the short version on how Don’s wheels began to spin in

there was room for improvement. “It was built locally and owned

the car world. Being a “car guy” for over 57 years, the Nevada,

by a gentleman who had recently [died], so it was being sold by

Texas, resident has owned a 1937 Ford convertible (2014-2015

his daughter,” Don informs. “The A/C was an important factor, as

Goodguys Builder’s Choice award at Texas Motor Speedway), the

out here in Texas it’s an absolute necessity.”

aforementioned 1954 Chevy, and he bought a new 1967 GTO, which he sold rather abruptly due to being drafted in 1968–an unfortunate

Once the car made it to Don’s garage, he began to personalize

situation but the GTO had to go. After returning from the Army, he

it to his taste. “I needed to lower the car a little in the front and

bought a 1970 Dodge Challenger, got married, then made way for

drop the rear a lot.” Don said with a smirk. “Getting the right

a 1948 International pickup. Don looks back on that lowered and

stance required the installation of mini-tubs to get it down to a

patina’d hauler and tells us, “it may have been the first true rat rod in

decent ride height.” As they say, “stance is everything,” and Don

the Dallas area. It was a rat rod way before rat rods were a thing.”

complied with the adage.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [75] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


ACP

FEATURE

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [76] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


InTheGarageMedia.com

The car rides the original frame but was upgraded with a Heidts

topped with a pair of Dynomax mufflers. Sure, more power is

Mustang II suspension up front, which includes 2-inch drop

certainly a possibility in the future, but for now he’s takin’ it easy

spindles. Don kept the leaf spring suspension out back and

and enjoying the ride.

added lowering blocks for aesthetics and a sway bar to help diminish body roll. Bilstein shocks reside up front and Doetsch

A 700-R4 trans was assembled by Phoenix Transmission out of

Tech single-adjustable shocks were used out back.

Weatherford, Texas, and is accompanied by a 2,000 stall converter. Nothing fancy or over the top out back–a 10-bolt with a limited-

Rolling stock consists of Ridler 650 wheels (17x7 front, 18x8 rear)

slip posi and 3.08 gears proves worthy to get the job done.

sheathed in Yokohama Advan Fleva V701 rubber (205/45R17 front, 235/40R18 rear). For now, the stock drum brakes still ride out

The interior is a tidy-looking ensemble featuring a steady flow of

back and GM discs with two-piston calipers handle stopping duties modern flair done up by Quality Custom Rides. They stuffed the up front. But as Don says, “These cars are never really done, so

stock dash with a set of Auto Meter gauges and built a custom

upgraded discs aren’t a stretch at some point.”

center console for the Lokar shifter. Ray Mitchell from All Pro Trim & Glass (Forney, Texas) did the upholstery and matched up a set

This ain’t no drag car, and it’s no autocross cone-cutter, so Don

of leather door panels with the stock bucket seats. Climate is

employed a basic 350 small-block crate engine for motivation.

controlled by a Vintage Air A/C system and a period-looking head

Induction comes by way of an Edelbrock 600-cfm carb perched

unit helps retain some classic style to the scene. The attractive

atop an Edelbrock performer intake, with spent fuel exiting

cabin also includes an ididit steering column topped with a custom

through a set of Sanderson headers and a 2.5-inch exhaust

leather half-wrapped steering wheel for accurate course direction.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [77] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


ACP

FEATURE

InTheGarageMedia.com

TECH OWNER: Don Silaff, Nevada, Texas VEHICLE: 1966 Chevy Nova Engine TYPE: Chevy small-block DISPLACEMENT: 350 ci COMPRESSION RATIO: 8:1 BORE: 4.00 inches STROKE: 3.48 inches CYLINDER HEADS: Stock iron ROTATING ASSEMBLY: Nodular iron crankshaft, powdered-metal steel connecting rods, cast aluminum pistons CAMSHAFT: Hydraulic flat tappet (0.450/0.460-inch lift, 222/222 deg. duration at 0.050) INDUCTION: Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, Edelbrock 1406 600 cfm, AC Delco air cleaner ASSEMBLY: GM EXHAUST: Sanderson headers, 2.5-inch exhaust, Dynomax mufflers ANCILLARIES: MSD ignition, chrome ball-milled valve covers and breather, Profrom alternator, FlowKooler water pump, Flex-a-lite fan, two-row aluminum radiator OUTPUT: 308 hp at 5,100 rpm, 347 lb-ft at 3,900 rpm Drivetrain TRANSMISSION: 700-R4 by Phoenix Transmission (Weatherford, Texas) CONVERTER: 2,000 stall REAR AXLE: Stock 10-bolt with limited-slip differential posi, 4.08 gears, stock axles Chassis FRONT SUSPENSION: Heidts Mustang II, 2-inch drop spindles, Bilstein shocks REAR SUSPENSION: Stock multi-leaf, Doetsch Tech shocks BRAKES: GM disc front, GM drum rear Wheels & Tires WHEELS: Ridler 650 17x7 front, 18x8 rear TIRES: Yokohama Advan Fleva V701 205/45R17 front, 235/40R18 rear Interior UPHOLSTERY: Blue loop carpet, blue leather door panels by Ray Mitchell at All Pro Trim & Glass (Forney, Texas) SEATS: Stock buckets, leather by Ray Mitchell SEATBELTS: Juliano’s STEERING: ididit steering column, custom leather half-wrap steering wheel SHIFTER: Lokar PEDALS: Lokar CENTER CONSOLE: Quality Custom Rides (Lancaster, Pennsylvania) DASH: Stock INSTRUMENTATION: Auto Meter HVAC: Vintage Air

On the exterior side of things, Quality Custom Rides smoothed the body and set the gaps to perfection prior to laying down a sea of BASF Marina Blue. The stock trim was removed for an uninterrupted clean envelope, while a cowl hood was incorporated for function and form. The stock headlights and taillights remain, with the only mods being a set of LEDs behind the stock rear lenses. “I built and reworked most of the car myself,” Don says. “But when I needed assistance, Roger Lynskey, my buddy from RPL Customs (Royse City, Texas), was always there to lend a hand, so I’d like to thank him for all the help.” Yes, Don has the experience and ability to build an absolute street bruiser, but in just about a year, he took the route of building a cool cruiser with A/C and a comfortable ride for unlimited miles of street duty. Regarding sticking with the small-block, Don says: “It’s got the right look, the right sound, and is something I’m totally familiar with. It fits my personality and my 1966 just fine.” Like the front license plate on Don’s Nova says, “Blue Skies From Now On,” it’s a positive outlook from a true old-school hot rodder.

Exterior BODYWORK & PAINT: Quality Custom Rides PAINT: BASF Marina Blue HOOD: Cowl GRILLE: Stock BUMPERS: Stock reproduction ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [78] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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ACP TECH

BLUEPRINT YOUR DRIVELINE BY JEFF SMITH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

E

ngine and driveline swapping has long been a staple of building performance cars since the first rodders began swapping parts in the back of a blacksmith’s shop. Today’s market is full of LS swap parts, upgraded transmissions, and a myriad of rear axle opportunities. But along with all this parts customizing is the reality of ensuring all these parts work together, so your upscale machine sings along nicely on the highway.

One area that is universally overlooked is the link between the transmission and the rear axle. Sure, you spec’d the length of that custom driveshaft right down to 1/ 8 inch and it now fits snugly in between the engine and rear axle. But is the angle correct? Just because the driveshaft doesn’t vibrate or rattle the inside rearview mirror off its mount on deceleration doesn’t mean the driveshaft angle is correct. It’s really something that should be verified. To minimize the confusion around measuring the driveline operating angle, TREMEC has come up with a slick smartphone application to measure and compute the operating angles for you. It turns out that a proper operating angle has a very specialized set of requirements.

A QUICK-ANDEASY WAY TO MEASURE DRIVELINE ALIGNMENT

Imagine we are looking at the driveshaft from the driver side of the car with Superman X-ray vision looking at three separate operating components. The first is the engine and transmission angle that we will combine into the first module. The second is the driveshaft itself and the third is the pinion angle of the rear axle. Generally, the engine/transmission module will be positioned with the output shaft of the transmission lower than the front of the engine by anywhere from 2 to 4 degrees. If we jump to the rear axle, we will focus on the pinion angle that we will express as having either a nose-up or nose-down angle. In order for the driveshaft U-joints to perform their job properly, they must operate within a narrow set of angles. The key to all of this is to orient the entire driveline with the engine/transmission and rear axle pinion angles roughly parallel to each other.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [80] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


InTheGarageMedia.com

The TREMEC illustration in their app reveals this relationship, which should help you visualize what needs to happen. What we want to avoid is the engine/transmission and rear axle operating at large intersecting angles. However, this may not always be possible. If the angles intersect, as between the driveshaft and the pinion angle, it’s important that the total operating angle not exceed 3 degrees. If the angle exceeds 3 degrees this will cause a vibration. With all this as our goal, let’s look at how to measure and calculate the operating angles.

1.

2.

1. Our test subject is a 1967 Chevelle 300 that was recently transplanted with a 5.7L LS along with a 4L60E four-speed overdrive automatic. With an LS motor mount conversion and a new crossmember, we were concerned that the driveline angle may not be correct. 2. We will assume you know how to load the TREMEC app into your phone so we won’t go over any of that. If you have questions, find a willing teenager to help you. This is the intro TREMEC page. Click on the top drawer marked Driveline Angle Finder.

3.

3. This is the traditional viewpoint for driveline angle descriptions. The overriding point of this entire discussion for a street-driven car at ride height is to place the pinion angle within 2 degrees of parallel with the angle of the engine/ transmission. The pinion angle should not intersect the angle of the engine/transmission. 4. To begin, we placed the car on the ground and measured the ride height of the rear fenderwell to the centerline of the axle. We then raised the car on the hoist and removed the rear springs and placed a trans jack under the rear axle housing to establish ride height. Now we were ready to perform our measurements.

4

Most gearheads know about the TREMEC transmissions company. They manufacture several lines of highperformance five-, six-, and now seven-speed manual transmissions that are found both in OE and aftermarket vehicles. A number of years ago they began dealing with complaints about driveline vibrations that occurred after a new transmission was installed. The installers assumed there was an issue with the transmission when the problem was more often traced to poor driveline operating angles. To remedy this situation, TREMEC developed a free driveline operating angle checking application for both Android and iPhones that runs through a simple set of angle measurements and then calculates the entire operating angle in a report. You can find this app by visiting tremec.com, click on Aftermarket, and then click on TREMEC Toolbox App. Before we get into the TREMEC app, it’s important to emphasize the ultimate goal for measuring these angles. Driveline engineers long ago determined that an operating angle at either U-joint of more than 3 degrees is excessive and will cause a vibration. We found this information on spicerparts.com. If the angles are roughly parallel, the rule is to subtract the smaller angle from the larger one. Let’s say that we then measure the pinion angle of the rearend and discover it is nose down by 1 degree. Keep in mind that the pinion is facing the opposite direction so a pinion down angle will intersect with a driveshaft down angle. Looking at these angles from the driver side of the car, the engine/transmission angle is sloping downward toward the rear. The imaginary line formed by the pinion is also sloping downward, creating intersecting angles. According to Spicer, this intersecting angle is not necessarily bad as long as it does not exceed 3 degrees. However, this intersecting angle is very sensitive to rpm, with the higher the rpm, the greater the potential for vibration.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [81] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


ACP TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

In the case of intersecting angles, the rule is to add the two angles. With the above driveshaft angle of 1.0 degree and the pinion-down angle of 1.0 degree, this equal 2.0 degrees, which is within the acceptable range. However, if we spin this combination at a high rpm, it may in fact vibrate. This is one reason (there are others) why TREMEC has chosen this app to push for parallel angles.

5.

6.

7.

5. We found a convenient spot using the transmission bolt heads to use as our angle for the engine/transmission module testing from the passenger side. Note that we are measuring from the passenger side of the vehicle. The Step 1 reading is 2.2 degrees down as evidenced by the upward pointing arrow on the screen that indicates that if we lower the trailing (left) side of the phone the numbers will increase. 6. Measuring the driveshaft angle is easy—just make sure the position is not affected by welded-on weights or other discrepancies. The Step 2 driveshaft angle is 1.3 degrees tail down as indicated by the arrow pointing in the same up direction as in Step 1. This means the driveshaft is roughly parallel to the engine and trans.

TREMEC maintains an ideal driveline angle arrangement to create parallel lines within a total of no more than 2 degrees of operation between the engine/transmission and the pinion. This is most easily accomplished by replicating the tail-down angle of the engine/transmission with a parallel line created by an upward-facing pinion angle. These two angles need to be parallel within 2 degrees. So if the engine/trans is 2.5 degrees tail-down, then the pinion angle at ride height can be anywhere from 0.5 to 3 degrees nose up, which will create a total operating angle of parallel lines within 2 degrees. Once you’ve loaded the TREMEC free software app into your phone, the next requirement is to measure the angles of the engine/transmission, driveshaft, and rear pinion angle as three separate angles. This must be accomplished with the components at ride height. If you don’t have access to a vehicle hoist, this test can be done on the shop floor with jackstands under the rear axle with the car level. Or, use a drive-on car hoist that will set the car at ride height.

8.

7. For the pinion angle, we used a small machined pad adjacent to the rear cover and turned the phone vertical. The angle is still accurate as long as the phone is facing the same way as in the previous two measurements. Our Step 3 pinion angle is 0.6 degree pointing up. This pinion-up angle means there are no intersecting lines. 8. The green results page reveals that we have roughly parallel angles and that our driveline is within spec. Angle 1 is only 0.5-degree operating angle, which is very close to zero. The best plan might be to remove the ½-inch spacer from under the trans mount to increase the engine angle, which would increase the operating angle for Angle 1. This would also increase the overall driveline operating angle closer to 1 degree, which would be ideal. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [82] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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ACP TECH

InTheGarageMedia.com

9.

9. This Chevelle was already equipped with aftermarket adjustable upper control arms that can easily alter the pinion angle. To increase the pinion-up angle, these arms should be lengthened. Make sure to turn both arms the same number of turns so as not to bind the action of the control arms.

We chose to perform this test using a frame hoist that allows the front and rear suspension to droop. To compensate, we measured the actual ride height from the axle centerline to the top of the rear wheelwell, which was 11½ inches. Then with the car on the hoist, we disconnected the shocks, removed the rear coil springs, and supported the rear axle with a transmission jack to simulate ride height. With that accomplished, we were ready to measure the angles. Once you click through the introduction pages on the app, STEP 1 measures the angle of the engine and transmission. TREMEC emphasizes that all three measurements should be taken from the same side of the drivetrain. We will take all our measurements with the phone facing out as viewed from the passenger side. The bottom of the engine and/or transmission oil pan is never consistent so it’s best to avoid these. We’ve found that removing the phone from its protective cover will also improve accuracy. We generally try to find a spot on the machined transmission pan rail. If that’s not possible, laying the phone across three bolt heads on the transmission pan rail will also work. Note that the TREMEC app will deliver an angle number along with an arrow. The arrow points in the direction of the angle. To ensure we are reading the arrow correctly, we often pitch the phone to reinforce that we’re reading it correctly. Moving the

phone in the opposite direction from the arrow will reduce the number displayed. With the engine/trans angle positioned, push the “Set” button on the screen and move to Step 2, driveshaft measurement. We’ve also noticed that often the number that is displayed on the screen is not necessarily the number that is recorded. It can change by two or more tenths of a degree. This may be caused by movement of the phone when touching the screen. If you look at the numbers displayed on our measurements of our test Chevelle, you’ll notice that they don’t agree with the final results but they are within a few tenths of a degree. STEP 2 is a simple measurement on the angle of the driveshaft taken on the bottom of the driveshaft near the centerline. This number can and will be different from the engine/transmission angle. With the driveshaft angle established, hit the “Set” button again and the screen will transition to the final measurement. STEP 3 is measuring the pinion angle, which can be tricky. For our 12-bolt rearend, we found a small machined pad adjacent to the rear cover that is perpendicular to the pinion. What is important is to make sure the pinion orientation is interpreted correctly as either pinion up or pinion down. If the rear cover area isn’t convenient, laying the phone across three rear cover bolts can be used or you can try measuring off the pinion snout itself, but this is often both problematic and inaccurate.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [84] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021



ACP TECH Let’s run through a theoretical set of measurements to illustrate how this app works and what it displays. Let’s place the engine/ transmission in a tail-down angle of 3 degrees, a tail-down driveshaft angle of 0.4 degree, and a pinion angle of 0.2 degree nose up. The TREMEC app will deliver an overall failed result because of the intersecting angle at the pinion. The display will show a green (good) result of 2.6 degrees for Angle 1. This is the operating angle of the front U-joint and is determined by subtracting 0.4 from 3 degrees for 2.6 degrees, which is within the 3-degree maximum operating angle.

If you look into other driveline angle measurement information, the TREMEC app tends to be very conservative. This is mainly because there are other mitigating factors such as something called a compound angle that also incorporates the driveshaft operating angle as viewed from above the car. This greatly complicates the story, so for the sake of brevity and complex math, TREMEC chooses to push the context of placing the pinion roughly parallel with the driveshaft.

For coil spring cars, the best way to change the pinion angle is with adjustable upper control arms, such as those sold through CPP, Global West, Hotchkis, and many others. Of course, you can Angle 2 is the operating angle of the rear U-joint. Here we have also use spacers to change the engine/trans angle to fine-tune the combination. Keep in mind that any change to ride height will a negative angle of the driveshaft (0.4 degree) and a positive (up) pinion angle (0.2), so we add the two angles together, which affect the driveline angle. If you are in the middle of the driveshaft operating range then you will likely be OK. creates an angle of 0.6 degree that is again within spec of 3 degrees despite the intersecting angles. This has become a somewhat lengthy explanation but you should be able to see how the total operating driveline angle concept works. The TREMEC app calculates the overall operating angle as the difference between Angle 1 and Angle 2. In this case the smaller A few simple measurements will quickly give you an idea of your Angle 2 is subtracted from Angle 1 to create 2.0 degrees but car’s operating driveline. You may discover, as we did, that while our because the pinion intersects the driveshaft angle, the TREMEC car had not previously exhibited driveline vibration, it did measure app will report this as failed. This is because of the intersecting out of spec. With some minor adjustments, we were able to bring angle of the pinion and the driveshaft. The fix for this situation the system into line. Think of this as blueprinting your driveline. It’s would be to merely move the pinion up about 1 degree to place it not overly complicated and the extra effort will make your driveline roughly parallel to the driveshaft. happy and will certainly contribute to a longer life on the road.

10.

DRIVESHAFT BASIC RULES 1. The minimum operating angle of each individual U-joint should not be less than 0.5 degree. 2. The operating angles on each end of the driveshaft should be within 1 degree of each other. 3. The total operating angle from the engine to the rear axle should not exceed 3 degrees. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [86] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021

10. Another option to adjust the driveline angles is to raise the rear of the transmission where it bolts to the crossmember. This is a very rigid aftermarket crossmember that only required a thin ½-inch spacer to properly position the engine and transmission.

SOURCE TREMEC (248) 859-6500 tremec.com


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BY STEVE MAGNANTE

N

Up until the late ’80s, a sight like this complete, original-paint 1972 Chevelle Malibu wasn’t a big deal. But in 2021 it’s a bigger deal. Though 1970 Chevelles are easy to spot–thanks to their quad headlamps, 1971 and 1972 Chevelles share the same single-lamp design and aren’t as easy to separate. The quick tell up front is how the corner marker lamps are separated into upper and lower halves by a body-colored horizontal bar. 1972s (like this) lack the solid divider and are fully translucent. On Super Sports the lenses are molded in amber plastic with clear bulbs. The non-SS lamps are clear with amber bulbs.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE AUTHOR

eil Young sang it best, “rust never sleeps.” And whether you’re a fan of Young’s earlier work with The Buffalo Springfield (the “The” is how the band

expressed their name) or his later experimental stuff like Trans (what was he thinking?), “there comes a time” when every car and truck takes its last journey on “the human highway” and is parked for the final time. In this month’s collection of Bowtie relics we’re wandering the back roads of rural Massachusetts where we’re “after the gold rush.” So with apologies to Neil, “don’t let it bring you down” to see these onceprime machines before the “wrecking ball” strikes.

At the rear, things aren’t so clear. The rectangular taillamps of the 1970 models gave way to a quartet of circular lamps in 1971 and 1972. Though two varieties of these lamps were seen in 1971 (the diameters of the inner circles were smaller until midyear), the large circle lenses returned for 1972, as seen here. The die-cast metal dealership badge on the trunk of this original-paint two-door reads “Matthews, Fitchburg, MA,” a still-operating Chevrolet (and now Kia) dealership first opened in the late ’40s.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [88] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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Can this 1976 Monte Carlo really be 45 years old? To this writer’s 56-year-old eyes, it’s still a “new car”—I distinctly remember the hot bleach smell of their catalyst-scrubbed tailpipe emissions. For perspective, when it was brand new, a 45-year-old car was from 1931. Launched in 1970, the Monte Carlo was then Chevrolet president John DeLorean’s take on personal luxury–with a European flair. In 1973 the sweeping fenders arrived as horsepower bowed out. This 1976 was the next-to-last example before the 20 percent smaller “downsized” version arrived in 1978. The aluminum-look wheels are actually flexible “poly cast” urethane fascias bonded to 15x7 steel dish rims. Stacked rectangular quad headlamps arrived in 1976 along with an anemic 305 two-barrel V-8 as the base engine. Options included the 350 and 400 small-blocks. The 454 big-block was canned after 1975. Though every Monte Carlo was equipped with an automatic transmission in 1976, from 1970-1975 base Montes got a three-speed manual transmission–which was rarely seen. Like an apple lying on the ground ripe for picking, this domed hood was once part of a 1970-1972 Chevelle Super Sport or Heavy Chevy (RPO YF3). An extra $158 would add the hinged Cowl Induction flap (RPO ZL2) and a specific circular under-brace insert designed to pack the air filter with cooler, dense outside air. The vacant holes at the leading edge once secured factory-installed hood pin equipment. Though once prime swap meet gold, these hoods are readily available today sans dents and rust.

ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [89] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


ACP BOWTIE BONEYARD

InTheGarageMedia.com

Inside this bare-bones, first-year S-10 Blazer, about the only extras are the column-shifted automatic transmission and (aftermarket) radio/ cassette player. As a Blazer, its powered by the 121-cube push rod four with 83 hp and 108 lb-ft of torque. Lighter S-10 pickups came standard with an overhead cam 119-cube four with 82 hp and 101 lb-ft of twist. Options included a 173-cube, 60-degree V-6 and a 136-cube diesel four. None of these mills were likely to peg the 85-mph speedometer.

Though All Chevy Performance magazine isn’t heavy on trucks (check out our sister publication Classic Truck Performance for more pickup and sport utility fun), this 1983 S-10 Blazer is impressive for what it is and is not. Though the first S-10 pickup trucks arrived in 1982, the pint-sized Blazer arrived a year later in 1983, as seen in this first-year example. But while the vast majority of S-10 Blazers were burly 4x4s, this two-wheel-drive unit is comparatively rare. Of the 84,672 Blazers built in 1983, 78.8 percent were four-wheelers. Not this one. It’s hard to imagine that just two years after this stodgy old beast was built, Chevrolet became Number One with hot rodders. This 1952 Styleline Deluxe four-door sedan has been in this location since Richard Nixon got himself impeached. Equipped with the optional Powerglide automatic, the six-banger grew from 216 to 235 cubes to keep pace.

Neil Young’s lyrics about corrosion and insomnia apply fully to this steel hubcap. Though it’s tempting to blame the lack of stainless steel hubcap construction on the Korean “conflict,” the fact is Chevy used steel hubcaps well into the mid ’50s before switching to stainless.

Still wearing its Onyx Black lacquer paint, this sleepy four-door helped keep Chevy low on the totem pole among kids on the street. Before the arrival of the 1955s, Chevys were for librarians, spinsters, and skin flints. ALL CHEVY PERFORMANCE [90] VOLUME 1 • ISSUE 9 • 2021


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