August 2021
88
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Best of the ed
• BBQ chicken kebabs with thyme & oregano chips • Calamari & aïoli • Mini cherry clafoutis
EASIEST EVER Summer bowls
Frozen sunshine desserts Fun ideas for active kids
Weeknight passion fruit pudding BOOST YOUR COOKING SKILLS
• Learn to make Jamaican ackee & saltfish • Whizz up 5-ingredient marinades • Master next-level scotch eggs
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Each freshly laid Clarence Court egg is unique. These colourful treasures are patiently laid by traditional breed birds originating from rare breed ancestors. Their heritage gives them a unique hue and flavour reminiscent of a bygone era. For eggs how they should be, simply look for the crown.
Welcome to
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HEALTH PODCAST
In episode 4 of our new health podcast series, health editor Tracey Raye speaks to awardwinning nutritionist and certified functional medicine practitioner Daniel O’Shaughnessy about what LGBTQ+ nutrition is and why it’s important.
Our commitment At Immediate Media, publishers of BBC Good Food, we respect and value differences. We understand that when people from different backgrounds and with different points of view work together, we can create the most value – for our readers, our people and society. We always strive to be inclusive, but we need to do better. We have been taking time to listen and understand how we can make positive changes, and how we can better support and increase diversity across all our brands. We have begun work on a comprehensive plan to create and drive authentic change.
Every dish tells a story, and Robert Ortiz’s beef estofado is a fascinating one. The Birmingham-based chef, who came to the UK from Peru, explains how his grandmother’s slow-cooked comforting stews, flavoured with fragrant herbs, influenced his own recipe. ‘My family worked in the fields, picking coffee, cane sugar, papaya and avocados, and in the early morning, my grandmother and I would take massive bowls of soup to them.’ Find his recipe on page 136. This issue, we’ve explored more recipes that put us in mind of sunny holidays, from Greece’s fluffy pitta and tzatziki to Spain’s smoked paprika-spiked salpicón de marisco, Mediterranean spatchcocked chicken, and Jamaica’s ackee & saltfish. We hope you enjoy making and sharing them all this summer.
Star contributors Craig and Shaun McAnuff The YouTube stars and authors share their recipe for a classic Jamaican dish, ackee & saltfish, on page 118.
Robert Ortiz Meet the chef who popularised Peruvian dishes in the UK (p134), and make Robert’s beef estofado at home with his recipe on page 136.
Rukmini Iyer The author of the popular Roasting Tin cookbook series shows us how to have a fuss-free midweek barbecue, with vegetables as the star (p66).
Tami Aktar Good Food’s Tami loves hearing from you, our readers. She shares your recipes, tips and highlights from our Facebook Together group on p10.
WE ARE Christine Hayes, editor-in-chief christine.hayes@immediate.co.uk @bbcgoodfood
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your copy of the September issue, plus a roasting tray to cook our cover-starring one-pot spiced roast chicken! Your roasting tray will arrive in plenty of time beforehand. Turn to page 42 for more details
JonathanGregson FOOD STYLIST
Rosie Reynolds STYLIST
Agathé Gits SHOOT DIRECTOR
Ben Curtis AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 3
Inside AUGUST 2021 COOK’S CALENDAR 15
Discover what to do in your kitchen this month, plus shopping inspiration and a seasonal beetroot recipe
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COVER STORY 30
EASY
MIDWEEK
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HEALTH
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THE BEST OF THE MED
Bring the sunshine inside with our 12-page special of Mediterranean-inspired mains and desserts
EVERYDAY MEALS
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Quick summer bowls for lunch and dinner
FAMILY
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Keep kids fed through the school break
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90
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SIMPLE MARINADES
Rukmini Iyer’s meat-free ideas for an easy midweek barbecue
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FRIDAY NIGHT TREAT
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TWO WAYS
Start the weekend with a build-your-own taco salad
WEEKNIGHT PUD
Make our self-saucing passion fruit sponge
Different ways to make more of paprika SUMMER ROAST
Melissa Thompson’s slow-cooked lamb
SUMMER HARVEST
How to use the best of what’s in season this month
KNOW YOUR STUFF
Expert cooking tips and kitchen know-how, plus recipes for next-level scotch eggs and mango daiquiri
OPINION 131
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1 INGREDIENT, 3 WAYS
COOKING SKILLS
Use a few storecupboard ingredients to flavour meats or dress salads
Our team shares their top ways to serve hot dogs
Serve a nutritious meze spread that’s vegetarian and ideal for entertaining
WEEKEND
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Make batches of veggie aubergine parmigiana lasagne for the freezer BBQ STARS
HEALTHY DIET PLAN
from the Good Food archive
FROZEN ASSETS
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146
HEALTH NEWS
Learn about gut health and the benefits of hemp seeds
GF TREASURES 100 Our favourite frozen desserts
FAMILY MATTERS
ANYTIME
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SUMMER HOLIDAYS
Advice for planning seaside trips, plus a fun sweet treat for the kids to help make
USE YOUR LEFTOVERS
How to use up what’s left from this issue’s recipes, plus how to make more of tahini
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MARVERINE COLE
A pick of crowd-pleasing beers for the summer JOANNA BLYTHMAN
Treat garlic with the respect it deserves and you’ll soon learn to love it, says our columnist MY FAVOURITE DISH
Tony Naylor talks to Robert Oritz, the chef who raised the profile of Peruvian food in the UK
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 5
Why you can trust
EVERY ISSUE 8
RECIPE INDEX Where to find all the recipes in this issue
10 42
YOUR FEEDBACK Share your views and photos with us SUBSCRIBER CLUB Find out about exclusive offers NEXT MONTH What’s coming up in our September issue
93 146
TONIGHT’S SPECIAL
Steak tagliata with lentils
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Recipesforeveryone There are at least 70 new recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our regular easiest-ever recipes. Testedandtrusted All our recipes are all thoroughly tested by experts to ensure they’ll work for you. We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us. Ethical We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world. In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, high-welfare chicken and eggs and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers (tune in to Facebook Live to see our #FridayFood challenge, when we use up leftovers).
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index
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Chipotle & lime dressing 70 Coconut-chilli marinade 70 Coconut kefir overnight oats 83 Easy garlic pitta bread 81 Fennel & lemon boulangère potatoes 96 Fluffy pittas 33 Frozen mango daiquiri 127 Harissa-honey marinade 71 Homemade tortilla chips 60 Iced mocha 127 Mint julep 127 Next level scotch eggs 124 Original daiquiri 127 Peach sour 127 Peanut, chilli & garlic oil 71 make it, snap it, post it Pineapple hot sauce 90 Pitta pocket toasties 81 Raspberry kefir overnight oats 83 Raspberry milkshake 80 @bbcgoodfood Sesame noodles 81 #bbcgoodfood Smoky chicken sauce 80 Soy dressing 81 Spiced pitta crisps 81 Sweetcorn with smoked paprika & lime butter 90 Tahini dressing 81 Thyme & oregano chips 32 Curried corn with cod & prawns 110 MEAT Beef estofado 136 Frito misto 36 Tortilla chips ‘n’ dips 60 Turmeric-ginger marinade 71 Lemony lamb & fennel hotpot 80 Salpicón de marisco 92 Tzatziki 33 NYC-style hot dogs with VEGETARIAN MAINS Quick slaw 81 street-cart onions 76 Aubergine & goat’s cheese burger Runner beans, chorizo BAKING & DESSERTS stacks with honey & thyme 68 & almonds 111 Aubergine parmigiana lasagne 64 Blueberry & coconut frozen ‘cheesecake’ Slow-roast lamb with prunes Barbecue tofu lettuce wraps with bars 104 & roasted garlic 96 in this issue Burnt Basque cheesecake 40 cashews, carrots & nuoc cham 68 Spiced lamb meatballs, roast Beetroot & feta pasta 48 Chocolate caramel terrine 105 apricots & fregula 110 Beetroot risotto with feta 20 Coconut panna cotta with mango Steak tagliata with lemony lentils 146 Taco salad 72 Buddha bowl salad 48 & ginger nuts 98 Gnocchi pomodoro 34 Frozen blackberry fool 102 POULTRY Healthy veggie platter 84 Grapefruit drizzle cake 12 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Mango chutney campfire cheese toasties 54 Jammy blackberry & almond crumble cake 57 Pasta alla norma 120 Mini blackberry clafoutis 38 Big barbecue chicken kebab 32 Fried chicken with pineapple hot sauce 90 Roasted teriyaki veg bowl 51 Mini cherry clafoutis 38 Spinach falafel & hummus bowl 49 Passion fruit & lemon self-saucing pudding 78 Greek-inspired chicken pasta salad 80 Tropical vegan hot dogs 76 PBJ cookie ice cream sandwiches 56 Smoky chipotle chicken soup 50 Veggie hummus pasta salad 55 Pistachio & rosewater kulfi 103 Spatchcocked chicken with Mediterranean Raspberry & lemon pudding 78 spices 122 SIDES, DRINKS & EXTRAS Sticky harissa, sesame & pistachio Raspberry shortbread sundae 80 Broccoli with charred red peppers Strawberry shortbread frozen yogurt 100 chicken 27 Tahini brownies 81 & feta 96 Carrot cake fridge flapjacks 60 FISH & SEAFOOD Tropical rocky road 62 Ackee & saltfish 118 Champ 81 Vanilla-roasted berries with brioche, Calamari & aïoli 36 Charred spring onions 81 mascarpone & almonds 69 Cheese & onion omelette 81 Vegan chocolate ice cream 102 Calamari rolls 80
INSTANT
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Balanced
Low cal
Low fat
Gluten free
Suitable for freezing
This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure that our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print. Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Walstead Bicester in the UK. Text paper Novapress, supplied by StoraEnso from Veitsiluoto Mill in Finland. Immediate Media is working to ensure that all of its paper is sourced from well managed forests. This magazine is printed on Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified paper. This magazine can be recycled, for use in newspapers and packaging. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, visit bbcgoodfood.com, email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk or write to Christine Hayes, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT.
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THIS IS YOUR What have you been cooking, sharing and discussing? Good Food’s Tami Aktar wants to hear from you – our wonderful community of readers You can get in touch with Tami through our social channels, or email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk
COOKING THE COVER Some of the fantastic efforts from readers who made our July issue’s cover-starring peach panna cotta trifle
I love hearing your stories and feedback. This one from Gill Richards in Herefordshire caught my attention The article on the Sikh charity, Nishkam Swat, was inspiring (June). It struck a raw nerve in me as a local meal delivery service in an impoverished area near to me is being closed down. It’s brilliant work coming from this charity – they truly do serve others in times like these.
#cookthecover
▲ Sally S windell,
Star letter
Holmfirt h
SUBSCRIBEFOR EXCLUSIVE RECIPES Get access to exclusive recipes like this one – turn to p42 for details. Dina Ghali from Bath made our beetroot & goat’s cheese quiche.
▲ Clare Bayley, Derby
▲ Sylvia Gough, Nottingham
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3 things you’ve been sharing It’s great to log on to the Good Food Facebook Community and find out what you’ve been discussing – and what I can learn. Here are some of my highlights. The beauty of summer Thy Lundkvist from Stockholm in Sweden shared her family’s very special lunch to celebrate Sweden’s midsummer, consisting of ‘devilled eggs with dill & caviar, senapssill (mustard herring), västerbottenpaj (cheese pie) and white chocolate almond cake with summer berries and wood sorrel for fika (which is like Swedish coffee/teatime).’ They took this picture from her summer home in the Stockholm archipelago leading out to the Baltic Sea. What a wonderful setting to bid farewell to the dark Scandinavian winters.
Keeping it chill
How to cut the world’s best mangoes
I found a hack by Keeley Martin from Kent to help keep drinks cold – she made this ice bucket using flowers from the garden. Marie Larroque from Essex also added that, ‘filtering the water, then boiling it before freezing, will make the ice crystal clear’. Great tips!
It’s mango season across South Asia, and it’s a big deal for diasporic communities looking for that nostalgic taste of home. Humayun Hussain from South Harrow shared a tip for prepping a Sindhri mango from Pakistan. ‘Chill it for a few hours, then slice off the top and cut sideways along the stone. Take a bite out of the flesh and enjoy!’
JOIN OUR FACEBOOK COMMUNITY, BBC GOOD FOOD TOGETHER Connect with us and others to share recipes, cooking tips and the kind acts you’re doing or noticing. Check out what everyone’s cooking and post your own kitchen creations. @bbcgoodfood
YOURTOP6CREATIONS You’ve been busy in the kitchen. Here are some of my favourite snaps
Claire Wood, Cumbria
Emma Shepperd, Hampshire
Alice Norton, Staffordshire
Jennifer Heftler, California, USA
Leigh Brannon, Durham
Kristen Brixton, Texas, USA
Turn the page to see reader Amy’s grapefruit drizzle cake
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 11
Your recipes
GRAPEFRUIT DRIZZLECAKE From Good Food reader Amy Bucks Baking takes me back to being young; helping mum in the kitchen making jam tarts, sponge cakes. My love of baking comes from her, and she’s my biggest inspiration. Having a chronic illness means I’m limited in what I can do, but I still love to bake. I’m often flicking through old and new recipe books, planning my next bake. Blood oranges are one of my favourite fruits, but when they’re not in season, I use grapefruit. I knew I wanted to incorporate it into one of my bakes, and a variation on a drizzle cake was the perfect way to allow its zingy flavour to shine. SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V
185g unsalted butter, plus extra for the tin 185g caster sugar 1 grapefruit, zested and ½ juiced, plus extra zest to serve (optional) 3 large eggs 185g self-raising flour ½ tsp baking powder crème fraiche or mascarpone, to serve For the drizzle ½ grapefruit (from above), juiced 100g caster sugar
1 Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/ gas 3. Butter an 18cm cake tin and line with baking parchment. 2 Beat the butter, sugar and grapefruit zest together using electric beaters until pale and fluffy,
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around 5 mins. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, and mix until combined. 3 Add the flour and baking powder, then pour in the grapefruit juice and mix gently until just combined. Spoon the batter into the tin and bake for 40-45 mins, or until a skewer comes out clean. 4 For the drizzle, mix the grapefruit juice and caster sugar together. When the cake is still warm, prick lots of holes in the top using a fork and slowly drizzle the cake with all
the grapefruit syrup. Leave to cool fully in the tin, then remove. Cut into slices and serve with a dollop of mascapone and a grating of grapefruit zest, if you like. PER SERVING 437 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 13g • carbs 55g • sugars 37g • fibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.4g
Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist HANNAH WILKINSON
photograph TOM REGESTER
Become a member at bbcgoodfood.com With over 13,000 recipes to choose from, you’re sure to find plenty of inspiration on our website. Create a free My Good Food account and opt in to receive recipe recommendations direct to your inbox.
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Cook’s
calendar
What to do in August Make the most of summer with our kitchen to-do list, seasonal recipes and our food and drink recommendations compiled by ANNA LAWSON, ESTHER CLARK, MARIANNE VOYLE, FIONA FORMAN, KEITH KENDRICK
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kitchen projects
10 THINGS TO The Good Food Team shares their kitchen to-do list, plus Emma Crawforth from BBC Gardeners’ World on what to harvest
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THE GLORIOUS 12TH GET READY FOR GAME SEASON The 12 August is known as ‘the glorious 12th’, when, traditionally, game-hunting season begins – initially with grouse. Feathered and furred game is some of the most sustainable meat in the UK, but the meat industry was one of those hardest hit by lockdown restrictions as restaurants are a cornerstone of the trade. Game is also a great lean meat that’s low in cholesterol and high in protein, with the added advantage of being full of flavour. Although some people are put off by the strong taste of game, pheasant, partridge and guinea fowl are milder options. Find our game recipes at bbcgoodfood.com.
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EATING OUTDOORS
FORAGED FRUITS
RESTOCK THE PICNIC BASKET
MAKE ELDERBERRY CORDIAL Elderberries are in season and ready for picking from August. They’re not grown commercially, so if you want fresh berries be prepared to go foraging. Some varieties of elderberries can be toxic when eaten raw – the best way to avoid this is to make sure you always cook your elderberries well first, or make them into a syrup that’s rich in vitamin C, to use as a cold-cure, cordial, dessert syrup or a wild cassis in cocktails. Go to bbcgoodfood.com for our recipes and a guide to elderberries.
Your picnicware may have had a lot of use over the last few months, so now might be the time to restock (when many items will be reduced in price). Have a sort through the mismatched cutlery in your picnic basket and invest in some new pieces. Find our reviews for the best kit, including an insulated wine bottle and bamboo plates at bbcgoodfood.com/ourfavourite-picnic-kit-summer.
Diary dates
7 AUGUST THE BIG MEAT & BEER FESTIVAL
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9 AUGUST ISLAMIC NEW YEAR
cook’s calendar
DO THIS MONTH 4
SWEETCORN SEASON USE UP A GLUT A seasonal favourite, you cannot beat corn on the cob grilled quickly over the flames of a hot barbecue. One of these flavoured butters, below, will make them finger-licking good. Simply mash the ingredients together and brush over the corn once cooked. l Soft butter + harissa paste + chopped coriander l Soft butter + tahini + honey + black sesame seeds l Soft butter + lime zest and juice + chipotle chilli flakes
5 STORECUPBOARD STARS PREPARE FOR THE NEW TERM
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As we move through August, we begin to think about the busier month of September when we slip back into school and work routines. Plan ahead and stock your cupboards with ingredients, ready to whip up quick packed lunches and midweek dinners. Make sure you’ve got a good stock of canned beans and pulses, like chickpeas, for making hummus, tahini for dressings and dips, plus different pasta shapes, good-quality canned tomatoes for pasta sauce and a well-stocked spice rack. Make an appealing snack cupboard for after-school or at-work treats, filled with jars of dried fruits, trail mixes and popcorn.
ESSENTIAL BUYS PUT IT ON YOUR SHOPPING LIST Burrata This oozy mozzarella-style cheese will transform a simple summer salad into a refined dish. Team it with sweet roasted tomatoes and basil, figs and prosciutto or peas, lemon and broad beans.
Cordial A fruit or elderflower cordial is always welcome refreshment on a warm day that tastes good as well as keeping you hydrated. Make a big jug and store it in the fridge ready for whenever your thirst needs quenching.
27-29 AUGUST THE BIG FEASTIVAL
Prawns Juicy whole prawns are delicious barbecued with garlic butter and hunks of bread for a light yet satisfying tapas-style meal. Search for Tom Kerridge’s ‘paper bag prawns’ at bbcgoodfood.com.
Rose harissa This Middle Eastern spice paste is ideal for marinating meats and fish for the barbecue. It adds a bit of heat and depth of flavour. Our favourite is Belazu, which is readily available in supermarkets.
30 AUGUST SUMMER BANK HOLIDAY AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 17
7 BESIDE THE SEASIDE GET THE BEST SEAFOOD If you’re heading to the seaside this summer, chances are you’ll come across a seafood shack or portside fishing boat selling its catch of the day. To make the most of the wonderful fresh British seafood on offer, make sure you’re armed with the skills and equipment you’ll need. You can find videos for how to prepare and cook scallops, crab, lobster and mussels online at bbcgoodfood.com.
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FROZEN ASSETS SAVE TIME WITH SMOOTHIES Make your own smoothie packs to store in the freezer and pop directly into your blender when you want one for breakfast on a hot summer day. You can add a mixture of chopped fruit, including berries and bananas, and oats, citrus juice and green veg. Store them in small reusable zip-lock bags and they will be ready to go when you need a quick breakfast to go. Of course, because the fruit is already frozen, there’s no need to add ice.
GET KIDS INVOLVED TEACH CHILDREN SOMETHING NEW Finding time to cook with your children during term time can be tricky. Use the last few weeks of the summer holidays (perhaps those rainy days) to bake with them. Check out our collection of summer baking recipes for kids on bbcgoodfood.com, where you’ll find easy recipes like lemonade scones and raspberry & honey flapjacks. If your older children are heading to uni this September, teach them key skills like how to make hummus, a basic ragu or an easy curry. Check out our student recipe collection online at bbcgoodfood.com/student-recipes.
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cook’s calendar
SMALL CHANGES, BIG IMPACT
10 GET GARDENING
COMPOSTING AT HOME
IT’S TIME TO: • Finish picking, and prune your summer raspberries and plums
Photographs iSTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, YOKO YAMADA/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES
• Keep picking herbs and deadhead any flowers to promote better foliage
Tackle food waste in your own kitchen
• Harvest aubergines, all beans, beetroots, red cabbage, summer cauliflowers, courgettes, cucumbers, kohlrabi, lettuces, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, broccoli, melons, peppers, tomatoes, summer squashes
I
• Mildew may have attacked your courgette leaves but the fruits you harvest should be unaffected
WORM COMPOSTING Worms will produce both vermicompost and a nutrient-rich liquid. Worm composters come in various designs. Some of them are bright colours like the Urbalive version from wigglywigglers. co.uk. You can also buy very small worm farms that you could keep in your kitchen or a suitable cupboard from theurbanworm.co.uk. Choose where to put it and how much time you’ll spend looking at it. You can put the following in your worm composter: • Most fruit and veg peelings and cores, avoiding acid like citrus or onions • Egg shells
f you’re lucky enough to have a compost heap in your garden or food waste kerbside collections, you’re contributing to larger composting systems. If these options aren’t open to you and you have enough space, some composting can be managed at home, even without a balcony.
• Ripped-up wastepaper and cardboard (like loo rolls) • Coffee grounds and filters • Plastic-free teabags • Dry bread and baked goods BOKASHI A bokashi system doesn’t produce the same kind of compost as it hasn’t travelled through the digestive system of a worm. Instead, it’s more acidic. A bokashi system is a sealed container and can be kept in your kitchen. You fill the bin with layers of scraps and bokashi bran, squashing the level down as you do so and making sure it stays airtight. Bokashi also produces liquid, which can be used on plants, or be tipped down the drain – the microorganisms will clean as they go. A bokashi system will compost what a worm composter does, but you can add cooked food, citrus and onions. If you’ve nowhere to put your compost, ask your neighbours – there’s usually someone on the lookout for compost.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 19
Inside your veg box
BEETROOT These versatile bulbs have sweet, earthy flesh that can be purple, candy-striped or bright yellow. As well as pickling or tossing them in salads, you can showcase them in this silky risotto recipe ESTHER CLARK photograph YUKI SUGIURA
SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 onion, finely chopped 300g raw beetroot, grated 1 garlic clove, crushed 175g risotto rice 100ml white wine 600ml hot vegetable stock 50g grated parmesan or vegetarian alternative ½ lemon, zested and juiced 40g feta, crumbled small handful of dill, to serve (optional)
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion and beetroot, and cook over a low-medium heat for 15 mins. Add the garlic and cook
for 1 min. Stir in the rice and fry for a couple of minutes, then pour in the wine and bring to a simmer. Add half the stock, stirring until it is absorbed. Add the remaining stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring continuously until the rice is al dente. Stir through the parmesan and lemon juice, adding a splash more stock to loosen if the risotto seems a little thick. Season to taste. 2 Toss the feta with the lemon zest and dill, if using, and spoon over the risotto. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Any leftovers will keep covered in the fridge for up to three days. Reheat in a pan over a low heat, stirring in a little stock to loosen. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 727 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 9g • carbs 93g • sugars 19g • fibre 8g • protein 22g • salt 1.9g
HOW TO MAKE BEETROOT LAST LONGER Pickle it Try making your own pickled beetroot. Cook the beetroot in boiling, salted water until tender, then slice and pack into sterilised jars with pickling liquid made using white wine vinegar, sugar and salt as a base. Add a few aromats, if you like, such as fennel seeds, chilli or dill.
Turn it into a chutney To make your beetroot last even longer, make it into a chutney to serve with cold meats and cheese in winter and at Christmas. Beetroot holds itself really well in a chutney and develops its flavour over time. Find beetroot chutney recipes online at bbcgoodfood.com.
NEW WAYS WITH BEETROOT BBQ IT
MAKE A RÖSTI
Wrap small beetroot bulbs tightly in foil and bake directly on the hot embers of a barbecue for 45mins-1 hr or until tender when a cutlery knife is inserted. Slice the beetroot and toss with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and goat’s cheese, and serve in a leafy salad.
Turn your beetroot into moreish, crispy fritters. Grate the raw bulbs, then fry with seasoned shallots and onions. Shape into patties and bake or fry until golden brown on both sides. Serve with poached eggs, smoked salmon or trout and soured cream for a Scandi-inspired brunch.
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BAKE IT IN A CAKE Beetroot pairs beautifully with rich chocolatey flavours. Try baking it into a brownie or chocolate cake. It adds a slightly savoury edge to balance the sweetness and imparts moisture into the bake. Find beetroot-based bakes at bbcgoodfood.com.
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Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist MAX ROBINSON
Beetroot risotto with feta
cook’s calendar
next month Celeriac Find new ways to cook with this earthy root vegetable in our September issue, on sale Thursday 26 Aug
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 21
r u o w Fo llo
7-DAY MEAL PLAN If you lead a busy life, you may feel you don’t have enough time to think about what you’re going to cook every night. However, setting aside an hour to plan a menu and shopping list for the next seven days will save you lots of time when flitting between other things.
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We share some of the recipes we’re excited to cook from this issue and bbcgoodfood.com
VEGGIE WINNER SNACK Carrot cake fridge flapjacks
It’s lovely to eat something warming for lunch, especially if the weather isn’t as summery as you’d hoped. page 20
Wednesday
Tuesday
Just the thing with a cup of tea mid-morning – or afternoon! page 60
LUNCH Beetroot risotto with feta
DINNER Aubergine parmigiana lasagne You can make this pasta and chill or freeze some of it for busier days. page 64
HEALTHY NIBBLES BREAKFAST Akoori (Indian scrambled eggs)
SNACK Nut & raisin protein balls
DINNER Gnocchi pomodoro
Spice up breakfast time with this easy-to-make dish and serve with shop-bought chapatis. find the recipe online
You can make these in 10 mins (no cooking required) for a quick snack that you can grab on the go. find the recipe online
Roast your potatoes before making our gnocchi and you’ll ensure they are feather-light and fluffy. page 34
QUICK & HEALTHY SNACK Next level scotch egg There’s nothing better than a sneaky half a scotch egg before lunch, especially with a runny yolk. page 124
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LUNCH Smoky chipotle chicken soup Use any leftover cooked chicken to cook up this speedy, spicy bowlful. page 50
SIDE DISH Persian basmati chelo (tahdig) This is perfect for hosting as you can leave it cooking for around an hour and it’ll be ready when guests arrive. find the recipe online
Thursday
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BREAKFAST Tropical breakfast smoothie
LUNCH Beetroot & feta pasta
DINNER Lamb soup with dolma
A filling, flavoursome lunch is in order on active days, and this is also a nutritionally balanced meal. page 48
You can prepare this a few days before as it’s an easy one to re-heat, and so comforting after a long day. find the recipe online
Friday
When it’s hot, you’ll appreciate a refreshing start to the day. find the recipe online
SPEEDY LUNCH
FRIDAY TREAT DINNER Vegan hot dogs
DESSERT PBJ ice cream sandwiches
This easy, sweet and creamy breakfast can be prepped ahead, then you simply add toppings. page 83
If you want a fun meal to share with friends (who may have special dietary needs), try our hot dogs. page 76
At the end of the working week, you will have earned an ice-cream sarnie – relax with it in the garden. page 56
Saturday
BREAKFAST Raspberry kefir overnight oats
WEEKEND FAKEAWAY BRUNCH Spinach falafel & hummus bowl
Sunday
This nourishing vegan brunch will keep you fuelled till dinnertime. page 49
DINNER Barbecue chicken kebabs A satisfying recipe to whip up at home if you’re craving a takeaway-style dinner. page 32
DESSERT Self-saucing passion fruit pudding Easy and vibrant, this dessert is sunshine on a plate. page 78
READY IN 30 MINS BREAKFAST Turkey bánh mì
WEEKEND PROJECT Gujiya
A fresh and flavour-packed brekkie is the perfect remedy for a fragile Sunday morning. find the recipe online
We love a challenging bake on the weekend and these coconut pastries are a great project. find the recipe online
DINNER Slow-roast lamb with prunes & roasted garlic Need a showstopper for Sunday? Family and friends will be wowed. page 96
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 23
aking a difference BREAKING BREAD ONLINE The BBC Good Food Together Facebook group has become a source of support for one everyday hero
One of our Good Food Together members, Leigh Brannon, told us about Corry Shaw, who has been Leigh’s hero since she joined the Facebook group last year. ‘Corry is so positive, funny and down-to-earth,’ Leigh says. ‘She shares recipes, plus support and encouragement. She goes out of her way to send gifts to those who are struggling, even sending ingredients or books abroad, despite her own physical challenges.’ Corry gave up her career as a comedy producer after being diagnosed with progressive spinal and brain diseases, which make everyday tasks difficult. ‘I struggle with my mobility and dexterity now,’ Corry says. ‘It can make cooking a challenge and means I have a good supply of plasters in the kitchen!’ An avid cook, Corry has been a Good Food magazine subscriber for 15 years and hasn’t let her health deter her from baking. ‘I began baking my own bread at the start of the pandemic and now bake a loaf almost every day,’ she says. ‘I’m a big fan of skills & shows editor Barney Desmazery’s recipes in particular – I love his easy chocolate biscuits and Yorkshire pudding recipes above pretty much anything else. In May 2020, I joined the Good Food Together group, and it’s been an anchor for me during this difficult time. The community is one of the kindest, most supportive I’ve ever been part of – on or offline. ‘Part of that joy has been exchanging gifts with people,’ Corry explains. ‘You notice when people are struggling, and I like to send things to cheer them up. I’ve sent personalised tea towels and chopping boards, a mug that looks like someone’s cat and a care package of home-cooked Indian meals and books. They’ve given me invaluable support, joy and laughter. I’ve met incredible people and made friendships that will last a lifetime.’ MV
To join the Good Food Together community, go to facebook.com/bbcgoodfoodtogether.
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WE ARE LAURE KOMOE Laure is our video editor, working as part of a busy team to produce all of Good Food’s recipe videos, how-to clips and promos, only hitting pause every now and then to graze on patisserie classics that remind her of her native France. Laure collaborates with our designers to add graphics as well as cut together and package the
24 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
videos for all our digital platforms. Among this summer’s most popular reels, you’ll find helpful guides on how to make pavlova and ice cream – without an ice cream machine – and mix a refreshing summer cup. We also review restaurant meal kits, gift hampers and chocolate subscriptions in our Unboxing series. To watch all these and more, visit bbc.co.uk/videos.
Compiled by ANNA LAWSON
We introduce you to the experts who create content for your favourite food brand
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ANNA’S FOOD PICKS
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August’s must-haves from food and reviews writer Anna Lawson
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Filippo Berio Rustico unfiltered extra virgin olive oil £8.99, Tesco and Ocado This has fresh, fruity olive flavour and mild peppery notes. Whisk into salad dressings or marinades, or dunk bread into it. It’s also packaged in a pretty reusable bottle.
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Nuii caramel white chocolate & Texan pecan ice creams £3.89 (pack of three), widely available If you like sweet-and-salty flavours, you’ll love these. Vanilla ice cream swirled with caramel is coated with caramelised white chocolate and crunchy, salted pecans.
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Odysea creamy feta & Greek yogurt spread £2.50 (180g), Waitrose & Partners Made with just feta and Greek yogurt, this thick spread is creamy, tangy and deeply savoury. Enjoy it with crusty bread, on flatbreads piled with barbecued lamb or as a dip for pitta crisps.
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Yeo Valley Organic limited-edition British blackcurrant yogurt £1 (450g), Waitrose & Partners and Sainsbury’s Created to mark this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show, this blackcurrant yogurt has
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a rich, fruity taste and subtle floral notes. Enjoy it as a quick dessert or team it with crunchy granola for breakfast. Belazu pea & mint pesto £2.85 (165g), belazu.com A fresh, summery take on a classic pesto, this combines traditional basil with a fresh hit of mint and the sweet nuttiness of peas. It’s ideal for pasta salads, but it can also be spread over bruschetta topped with mozzarella or burrata, or stirred into potato salad for an easy barbecue side.
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Have you tried?Authentic Mexican tortillas made in Ireland If you’ve ever been to Mexico or an authentic Mexican restaurant, you’ll know how different the tortilla chips are from the ones you find in the crisps aisle at the supermarket. Blanco Niño is on a mission to bring authentic corn tortillas to our homes, having been producing them for Mexican restaurants such as Wahaca for several years from its base in County Tipperary, Ireland. When Blanco Niño founder Philip Martin travelled to Mexico in search of the key to making perfect tortillas, he found it – an ancient process
called nixtamalisation that involves selecting the best non-GMO corn, then cooking and steeping it overnight before grinding it into masa (a corn dough) using hand-carved volcanic stones. While hot, the masa is shaped and baked into tortillas, which are cut and fried. This takes three days, but it’s worth it – they’re by far the best tortilla chips you can get outside of a Mexican restaurant. They have good corn flavour, a crisp texture and spot-on seasoning. Dunk into salsas or guacamole, or use in nachos or chilaquiles. £3.50 (170g), Ocado
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 25
RAISE A GLASS
WHAT’S TRENDING
in August
Our pick of must-try spirits and craft beer on the nose, with peppery citrus notes. Evocative of green chillies and lime with a creamy finish, this is surprisingly easy to sip neat, chilled, or with a wedge of fresh lime, topped up with soda. It also works well in a margarita or paloma. 38%, £19.95 (70cl), masterofmalt.com
gin
Lyre’s Classico Not only is this a handy can to have in the fridge in case a guest is unexpectedly off the booze, it’s also great for taking to picnics or garden parties. An impressive, alcohol-free alternative to prosecco with good carbonation and delicate hints of apple and pear, it’s also beautifully dry, making it extremely drinkable. Serve on its own, well chilled, or use in spritz cocktails. £8.99 (4 x 250ml pack), lyres.co.uk Available at the end of August.
tequila El Sueño Premium Tequila Silver An affordable tequila that’s smooth and fresh-tasting, El Sueno’s Premium Silver is sweet and floral
HOMEMADE PIZZA Another lockdown trend that’s taken off is pizza-making – we’ve spotted an increase in Google searches for recipes and kit, including ‘how to make pizza dough’ (up by over 5000%), ‘homemade pizza ideas’ (up by 140%), ‘pizza oven’ (up by 180%) and ‘pizza peel’ (up by 120%).
beer
Ocean Beer These beers are as refreshing as a dip in the briny – which is apt, given that 100% of profits go to ocean clean-up and conservation projects around the world. There are three in the range: Ocean Lager (4.8% ABV), Surfer IPA (4.8% ABV) and Ocean Beer 0.0 (0.0% ABV). The story began in 2016 with three surfers who shared a passion for beer and the sea. Becoming increasingly aware of the poor state of the waters they surfed in, the trio launched Ocean Beer in 2020 to help fund the clean-up of beaches. CEO Pablo Martinez says, ‘Our mission is to accelerate the pace of ocean clean-up and conservation.’ £24 (12 x 330ml), oceanbeer.com
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FLAVOURED MAYOS AND KETCHUPS Up your condiment game this barbecue season with a flavoured mayo or ketchup. Shops now sell mayos spiced with turmeric (The Foraging Fox), sriracha (Tiptree) and chipotle (Hellman’s), along with ketchups flavoured with mango (Sainsbury’s), katsu curry (M&S), sweet mustard (Tracklements), and harissa and balsamic vinegar (both Belazu).
Reviews ANNA LAWSON, MIRIAM NICE, KEITH KENDRICK
non-alcoholic fizz
Eight Lands gin This beautifully smooth, clean and vibrant gin is made at Glenrinnes Distillery in Scotland using the local spring water and 11 different botanicals, including sustainably foraged cowberries and sorrel from the area. It’s packed full of juniper and citrus, balanced by a subtle sweetness and finishes with warming spices. A gorgeous and very easy-drinking gin, it’s excellent over ice with a splash of premium tonic water, or try it in a martini. 46% ABV, £39 (70cl), eight-lands.com
TEQUILA COCKTAILS During the first lockdown, tequila surged in popularity as we took to making cocktails at home, and demand has been rising ever since. UK-based Google searches for ‘tequila cocktail recipes’ are up by 180% , ‘margarita recipes’ by 170% and ‘paloma cocktail recipes’ by 130%. See left for our latest tequila find.
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T V chefs SABRINA GHAYOUR’S STICKY CHICKEN
This recipe embodies all the qualities I like in a chicken dish – sticky, savoury, spicy, crunchy and utterly delicious. It reminds me of Cantonese sticky chicken, but with more oomph, and it can be recreated at home.
Try this finger-lickin’ dish with a touch of Middle Eastern spice Sticky harissa, sesame & pistachio chicken SERVES 3-4 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
500g boneless, skinless chicken breasts vegetable oil, for frying 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp garlic granules 3 tbsp clear honey 2 tbsp rose harissa 25g sesame seeds, toasted 50g pistachio nuts, roughly chopped
1 Lay the chicken flat on a chopping board and roughly chop into strips. 2 Heat a drizzle of oil in a large frying pan over a high heat, add the chicken and quickly toss in the oil. Cook until opaque all over but not cooked through, about 5 mins. 3 Add the cinnamon and garlic granules, and quickly toss the chicken again, then add the honey and harissa, and stir until the chicken is well coated. Season generously with salt and pepper, cook for a further 1 min or until cooked through, then stir to coat in the sauce. 4 When the sauce is bubbling and reduced to an almost caramel-like consistency, remove from the heat, stir again, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds and pistachios.
Recipe adapted from Simply by Sabrina Ghayour (£26, Mitchell Beazley). Sabrina is a regular guest chef on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen.
tip You can also use mini chicken fillets for this recipe.
GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (4) 333 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 1g • carbs 16g • sugars 15g • fibre 3g • protein 34g • salt 0.3g
TV & RADIO PICKS Saturday Kitchen Some of Saturday Kitchen’s favourite chefs join Matt Tebbutt in the studio this month, including Paul Ainsworth, Tony Singh and Theo Randall, along with cook and food writer Georgina Hayden. Watch on BBC One from 10am or on iPlayer and join in the conversation at @SaturdayKitchen.
by KATHRYN CUSTANCE
Celebrity MasterChef Six weeks of the annual celebrity cooking assault course begin after the Olympics. First up are actors Su Pollard and Rita Simons, pop band Blue’s Duncan James, Happy Mondays legend Bez, and comedian Munya Chawawa. Watch on weekday evenings on BBC One or BBC iPlayer.
The Food Programme This month, Jaega Wise interviews Andrew Wong whose London restaurant became the first Michelin two-star Chinese restaurant outside Asia, and Dan Saladino looks at how activist investors are now shaping the policies of large food companies. Listen on Sundays at 12.30pm on BBC Radio 4.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 27
THIS MONTH’S
Wish list
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Whether eating outside or in, add some sunshine to your dining table with Anna Lawson’s top picks for summer dining
5 6 For more product reviews and gift guides, visit bbcgoodfood.com/reviews
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Set of three Levantine dip bowls £8, John Lewis & Partners This set of three Levant-inspired dip bowls are deep orange, cobalt blue and turquoise inside. They look great together on the table, filled with dips and nibbles.
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Glass Sophie lantern £9, heavenlyhomesandgardens.co.uk Add ambience to your dining table or garden patio with this simple glass lantern – just fill with a candle or battery-powered LED light.
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Laura Jackson design leaf napkins £30, iamfy.co These pretty, leaf design, cotton napkins look great on the table, and are machine-washable.
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Palma yellow wine glasses (set of four) £32.50, Oliver Bonas Evoke that summer holiday feeling with these brightly coloured, palm-tree decorated wine glasses – they’re great for cocktails too!
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Kitchen Craft olive wood salad servers £17.50, partridgeshadleigh.co.uk Serve your salad in style with these gorgeous, hand-carved olive wood salad servers. They add a touch of luxury to the table.
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Orange burst mango wood platter £40, suziebidlake.com This colourful, hand-crafted platter is great for serving canapés, nibbles, cheese, charcuterie – or anything you fancy.
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Lemon plates (set of four) £32.90, mondayonline.co.uk Add a pop of sunshine yellow to the table with these gorgeous lemon-design plates – the perfect size for sides, nibbles or desserts.
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Garden trading portmore jug £22, gardentrading.co.uk For serving water, juices or cocktails, this stylish glass jug with Med-inspired rattan base is very on-trend this summer.
cook’s calendar
BOOKS FOR COOKS
What Fiona Forman is cooking this month MUST-TRY RECIPE
From the veg patch by Kathy Slack (£25, Ebury) After suffering burnout, Kathy quit her job and turned to her garden and growing her own produce for solace. From that, came this clever cookbook where she’s chosen 10 favourite fruits and vegetables, and created 100 recipes to showcase them. Beautifully written and shot, with plenty of growing advice, this would make a great Christmas present. Must-try recipe: Courgette & cheddar scones
Camper Van Cooking
Middle Eastern Sweets
by Claire Thomson & Matt Williamson (£20, Quadrille Publishing) Chefs Claire and Matt have done camper van holidays with their three children for the past five years, and prove that cooking on the road doesn’t have to mean endless cans of beans. Instead, you can make dishes such as fish tandoori with mango raita & cucumber, then finish off with malt loaf toasted and stuffed with chocolate buttons. Whether you’re cooking on the go or not this summer, this book is a fabulous collection of family-friendly recipes that everyone will love. Must-try recipe: Pork & pineapple skewers
by Salma Hage (£24.95, Phaidon) Lebanese food writer Salma shows how to make some of our favourite Middle Eastern treats, including baklava and Turkish delight, and infuses cakes, cookies, truffles, sweets and ice cream with the fragrant flavours of rosewater, orange blossom, nutty tahini and pistachio. A lovely collection of recipes. Must-try recipe: Salted tahini & chocolate cookies
MORE FROM BBC GOOD FOOD Vegan magazine Simple plantbased mains, stunning desserts and light lunches to see you through summer. On sale now, £5.99.
On your tablet Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store. Good Food how-to videos Sharpen your cookery skills with our videos. Find over 200 at bbcgoodfood. com/feature/videos.
Tune in for lively chats with the Good Food team, Tom Kerridge and Britain’s best and brightest in food. AVAILABLE AT bbcgoodfood.com/podcast
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 29
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Big barbecue chicken kebab
If you’re barbecuing for more than four people, it’s easier to do one big carveable joint or kebab rather than individual bits that take up too much attention. The joy of this is, once it’s cooked, you can enjoy it with everyone else without having to head back to the barbecue to flip a few more burgers. You may just want to grill some extra halloumi for any veggie guests – all the sides are vegetarian, too. SERVES 6-8 PREP 40 mins plus at least 1 hr marinating COOK about 1 hr MORE EFFORT
12 boneless, skinless chicken thighs For the marinade 500g Greek yogurt 2 lemons, juiced, 1/2 lemon zested 100ml olive oil 4 garlic cloves, very finely grated or crushed 1 tbsp each ground coriander, ground cumin and sweet paprika 1 tsp each dried oregano, dried thyme, cayenne pepper and crushed black pepper ½ tsp ground cinnamon To serve 2 red onions, halved and finely sliced 4 tomatoes (plum work well) halved and sliced
1 First, whisk all the marinade ingredients together with 1 tsp salt in a large bowl or, better still, a large plastic container that has a lid. Open out each chicken thigh, cover with a piece of baking parchment and flatten it with your hand, then lift off the paper and cut the thigh in half. Tip into the marinade and mix so it’s completely coated. Cover, chill and marinate for at least 1 hr or up to 24 hrs – the longer, the better. 2 Thread all the chicken onto two skewers so that both skewers go through each piece of meat, packing down tightly as you go to make a compact kebab (see tip, right) 3 Light a lidded barbecue, and let the flames die down. Once the coals have turned ashen, pile them up on one side with a single layer of coals scattered around the other side. Lay the chicken kebab on the side of the
barbecue with only a few coals underneath. Put the lid down and cook for 45 mins, turning every 15 mins. To finish, lift the lid and roll the kebab over to the hotter side to char the meat, turning it every few minutes until well browned and cooked through. Prise the chicken pieces apart in the centre to check they’re cooked, or use a digital cooking thermometer – it should read 70C or more. Leave to rest for 5-10 mins while you cook the pittas (see recipe, opposite). Bring the kebab to the table and carve into thin slices with a serrated knife. Pile the carved meat into the warm pittas, then the sliced red onions and tomatoes, chips and tzatziki (see our recipes, below and right). GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 368 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 8g • carbs 10g • sugars 8g • fibre 3g • protein 21g • salt 1.2g
Thyme & oregano chips This makes enough to add to the wraps, but if you want them as a side as well, make more. SERVES 6-8 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V 600g frozen French fries 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp dried thyme ½ tsp garlic granules large pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
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1 Heat the oven to 240C/220C fan/ gas 7 with a sturdy baking tray in it. Toss the frozen fries in a bowl with all the other ingredients and a large pinch of salt until evenly coated. 2 Spread the fries over the baking tray and cook for 15 mins until starting to turn golden, then use a spatula to turn them and bake for 15-20 mins more until golden and
crisp – watch them for the last few minutes to ensure they don’t burn. PER SERVING 130 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 15g • sugars 0.1g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.2g
tips • COOK IT IN THE OVEN Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 8. Sit the kebab across a roasting tin so it is suspended, or rest a wire rack over a roasting tin and place the chicken on top. Cook for 45-55 mins or until cooked through. • ADD ONION Threading the chicken onto the two skewers at once can be a bit fiddly. To hold the skewers in place, you can start and finish with something more solid like half an onion or a thick slice of potato.
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Tzatziki Used both as a dip or a sauce to go alongside barbecued meats, a small shop-bought tub of tzatziki is never enough – and it’s so easy to make your own. SERVES 6-8 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V 1 large cucumber, peeled, halved and deseeded 500g Greek yogurt 1 small garlic clove, crushed or finely chopped 3 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp olive oil small handful mint leaves or dill sprigs, finely chopped
1 Coarsely grate the cucumber along the length to create long strands, tip into a sieve set over the sink or a bowl, mix in a large pinch of salt and set aside for 10 mins. Tip the yogurt, garlic, vinegar and olive oil into a bowl and season with black pepper. 2 Squeeze as much liquid out of the cucumber as you can using your hands, then stir through the yogurt mixture along with the mint, taste for seasoning and serve. Can be made a day ahead and chilled – just give it a good stir before serving. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (8) 116 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 5g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre none • protein 4g • salt 0.1g
Fluffy pittas There are two types of pitta – the Middle Eastern style that you find in the shops, and these fluffy Grecian ones that are harder to come by. They really do add the finishing touch to these kebabs, and are well worth making yourself. The thyme is optional. MAKES 8 PREP 20 mins plus 1 hr rising COOK 40 mins EASY V 500g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting 7g sachet fast-action dried yeast 1 tbsp caster sugar 2 tsp fresh thyme leaves (optional) 200ml milk 1 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra for proving and brushing
1 A few hours before you want to eat, make the dough. Mix the flour, yeast, sugar, thyme, if using, and 2 tsp salt in a bowl with your fingertips. Pour over the milk, olive oil and 100ml lukewarm water and, still using your fingers, combine to make a dough. Tip onto a work surface and knead for 8-10 mins (or blitz in a stand mixer for 5 mins). Clean, then lightly oil a bowl, put the dough in the bowl and cover with a tea towel. Leave to rise for
1 hr or until nearly doubled in size. If you want to give yourself more time, the dough will take longer to rise in the fridge (at least 2 hrs). 2 Divide the dough into eight equal pieces. One at a time, on a lightly floured surface, roll out to circles about 20cm wide, then brush with a little more olive oil and cook on the hot side of the barbecue for 2-3 mins on each side until puffed up and blistered. Alternatively, heat a frying pan or griddle (or two if you can) over a medium-high heat and cook, one by one in each pan, until bubbles appear on the surface after 1-2 mins. When the underside is golden, flip and cook for another 2-3 mins. Continue until all the pittas are cooked, wrapping them in foil as you go to keep warm. PER SERVING 273 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 1g • carbs 51g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 9g • salt 1.2g
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Gnocchi pomodoro This is a classic no-frills Italian dish. A good pomodoro (tomato) sauce is cheap and delicious and can be tossed with any pasta shape from rigatoni to spaghetti. Here, we’ve served it with fluffy pillows of gnocchi. To ensure featherlight gnocchi, don’t overwork the dough, use the wrong potatoes or cook them the wrong way – roast the potatoes first to extract moisture. For instant comfort, these gnocchi can be cooked from frozen, too.
SERVES 6 PREP 40 mins COOK 1 hr 25 mins MORE EFFORT V ❄
rock salt, for the tray 1.5 kg Maris Piper potatoes 375g pasta flour, plus extra for dusting 1 medium egg, lightly beaten semolina, for dusting For the sauce 3 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus drizzle to serve 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed ¼ tsp chilli flakes 1 tsp sugar bunch of herbs, tied together (oregano, thyme and bay all work well) handful of basil, leaves picked and torn ricotta salata, pecorino or vegetarian alternative, finely grated, to serve
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1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 8. Tip a layer of rock salt onto a baking tray and sit the potatoes on top. Roast for 50 mins-1 hr or until tender when a cutlery knife is inserted. Leave to cool for 10 mins, then peel off the still warm skins. Pass the potatoes through a ricer or push through a sieve using a spoon onto a work surface, then leave to cool. Add the flour, egg and 1/2 tsp salt to the potato and gently bring everything together using your hands until you have a uniform dough – don’t overwork it. Divide the dough into four. Roll each piece into a long sausage on a lightly floured surface to around 2cm in diameter. Cut each one into 1.5-2cm nuggets. You can keep them like this or roll ridges onto to them with the back of a fork or a ridged pasta paddle. Set aside on a baking sheet dusted with semolina. 2 For the sauce, blitz the canned tomatoes using a jug blender or hand blender. Heat the oil in a large
pan over a low-medium heat, then add the onion and a pinch of salt and fry for 10-15 mins until softened and translucent. Tip in the garlic and chilli and cook for 1 min, then add the sugar, blitzed tomatoes and herbs, and bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 20 mins, stirring regularly. Season to taste. 3 Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil. Add the gnocchi in two batches and cook for 2-3 mins or until they bob to the surface. Drain the gnocchi in a colander, then toss in the pan with the tomato sauce. Spoon onto a large sharing plate, then top with the basil, grated cheese and a drizzle of olive oil. You can open-freeze the gnocchi on trays, then store in sandwich bags for up to three months, which can then be cooked for 3-5 mins from frozen. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 545 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 2g • carbs 99g • sugars 12g • fibre 10g • protein 15g • salt 0.4g
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easy midweek
n Spinach falafel & hummus bowl page 49
two ways n Hot dogs page 74
47
simple recipes for busy weekdays
family
n PBJ cookie ice cream sandwiches page 56
frozen assets
n Aubergine parmigiana lasagne page 64 AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 45
midweek meals
bowl food
Quick to make yet bursting with flavour, these recipes make a satisfying dinner and work just as well packed up for lunching on the go recipes LIBERTY MENDEZ photographs MIKE ENGLISH
72p per serving
Buddha bowl salad, p48
We strive to make all our midweek meals balanced or healthy. Learn more about our guidelines on page 145
46
easy midweek
your shopping list FRUIT & VEGETABLES 2 lemons 4 red onions 1 /4 small cabbage 2 watermelon radishes or 6 small radishes 1 cucumber 2 large beetroots 4 white onions 6 celery sticks 6 garlic cloves 8 carrots 2 baby pak choi 300g long-stemmed broccoli 1 red pepper 1 large thumb-sized piece of ginger ◆ 4 spring onions 300g baby spinach
HERBS & SPICES 1 small bunch of dill 1 small bunch of basil 1 /2 small bunch of parsley 3 /4 tsp chilli flakes 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds 1 tsp ground cumin STORECUPBOARD 1 tbsp caster sugar 200g couscous 400g can mixed beans 400g wholemeal pasta 11/2 litres low-salt chicken stock 2 tbsp chipotle paste 2 x 400g cans chickpeas 4 tbsp teriyaki sauce 400g cooked brown rice ◆ 4 wholemeal pittas
2 tbsp plain flour ◆ 2 tbsp tahini 2 tbsp apple cider or white wine vinegar 75ml olive oil 2 tbsp sesame oil MEAT/FISH 400g cooked chicken DAIRY 120g low-fat crème fraîche 100g feta FROZEN 200g frozen peas
£1.02 per serving
Creamy beetroot & feta pasta, p48 AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 47
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins NO COOK EASY V
For the quick pickle 1 large red onion, finely sliced ¼ small red cabbage, finely sliced 2 tbsp white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar 1 tbsp caster sugar ¼ small bunch of dill, leaves picked
200g couscous 400g can mixed beans 1 tsp olive oil ½ tsp chilli flakes ¾ small bunch of dill, torn into sprigs 2 watermelon radishes or 6 small ones, sliced ½ cucumber, peeled into ribbons
1 First, make the pickle. Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl with 1 tsp flaky sea salt, then cover and set aside until needed. 2 Mix the couscous with 280ml boiling water in a bowl, cover and leave for 4 mins, then fluff up with a fork. Set aside to cool slightly.
Buddha bowl salad
Beetroot & feta pasta SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
2 large beetroots, peeled and roughly chopped into chunks 1 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 4 celery sticks, finely chopped, celery tops kept separate 4 carrots, peeled and finely chopped 1 small bunch of basil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 400g wholemeal pasta 75g low-fat crème fraîche 100g feta
1 Put a large pan of salted water on a high heat, bring to the boil and add the beetroot chunks. Boil for 5 mins, then transfer the beetroot to a plate using a slotted spoon. Set the pan of cooking water aside. 2 Meanwhile, put the olive oil in a large frying pan set over a medium heat, then add the onions, celery and carrots, and cook for 8 mins until softened. Finely chop the basil stalks and celery tops, then add to the pan along with the garlic, and fry for another 30 seconds. 3 Tip the pasta into the pan of beetroot water and simmer for 13-15 mins (depending on what pasta you’re using) until just cooked but retaining a little bite. Drain, reserving 200ml of the pasta water and tip the pasta back into the pan.
reader offer Save on these Samuel Groves stainless steel tri-ply chef pans available in three sizes Made in the UK, these Samuel Groves stainless steel tri-ply chef pans are guaranteed for life. Strong and versatile, they boast a rapid and responsive heat distribution and come in three sizes: 20cm, 24cm and 26cm. Each has a rounded base that makes stirring, frying and whisking easier, and they will perform superbly on all hob types including induction, plus they are oven-safe up to 200C. The pans are comfortable to hold, and supported by the Samuel Groves Pans for Life refurbishment service. HOW TO ORDER: Visit samuelgroves.com, search for 'classic tri-ply chef pans', select the size, and use the code SGCHEF20 at the checkout. Offer ends 31 August 2021.
48 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
3 Meanwhile, drain and rinse the beans, tip into a bowl, then stir in the olive oil and chilli flakes along with a little seasoning. 4 Mix most of the dill through the couscous and season. To assemble, spoon the quick pickle, couscous, radishes, beans and cucumber into separate parts of each bowl. Top the pickle with the reserved dill and grind over some black pepper. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 327 kcals • fat 3g • saturates none • carbs 59g • sugars 14g • fibre 9g • protein 13g • salt 1.7g
Meanwhile, put the beetroot with half of the fried veg into the bowl of a food processor with most of the basil leaves and the crème fraîche, then blitz until smooth. Gradually add the reserved pasta water to loosen until you have a thick mixture. 4 Stir this sauce through the pasta along with the remaining fried veg and some seasoning. Divide between bowls, crumble over the feta, then scatter with the remaining basil leaves. Grind over some black pepper, if you like.
tip MAKE IT VEGAN This can easily be made vegan by used a plantbased crème fraïche and vegan feta.
GOOD TO KNOW low cal • calcium • folate • fibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 468 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 6g • carbs 63g • sugars 14g • fibre 17g • protein 17g • salt 0.8g
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easy midweek
Spinach falafel & hummus bowl SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
150g baby spinach ½ cucumber, sliced 1 red onion, finely sliced 4 wholemeal pittas, toasted, to serve For the falafel 150g baby spinach 400g can chickpeas, drained 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 tsp ground cumin ½ small bunch of parsley, finely chopped 2 tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for rolling For the hummus 400g chickpeas, drained 40ml olive oil, plus extra to serve 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped 1 lemon, juiced, plus extra to serve (optional) 2 tbsp tahini
1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ gas 5. Line a baking sheet with non-stick parchment. Put all the falafel ingredients, except for the oil, in a food processor and season lightly. Pulse until you have a rough mix. 2 Oil your hands lightly, then take tablespoons of the falafel mix, roll into around 16 balls and put on the baking sheet. Press each one down slightly with the palm of your hand. Brush using the 1 tbsp oil and bake for 20-25 mins until firm and golden, turning halfway through. 3 While the falafel is cooking, make the hummus. Put all of the hummus ingredients into a food processor with 50ml of water and blitz until smooth and silky. 4 Put the spinach, cucumber, red onion and falafel in different sections of each bowl, alongside some hummus, then drizzle with the extra olive oil. Grind over some black pepper. Serve with the pittas on the side and more lemon for squeezing over, if you like.
£1.24 per serving
GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 379 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 3g • carbs 27g • sugars 4g • fibre 10g • protein 14g • salt 0.1g
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 49
Smoky chipotle chicken soup SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
1 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, finely chopped 4 carrots, finely chopped 2 celery sticks, finely chopped 1½ litres low-salt chicken stock 1-2 tbsp chipotle paste (depending on how much spice you prefer)
400g leftover cooked chicken, shredded 200g frozen peas 1 lemon, zested and juiced 4 tbsp low-fat crème fraiche 2 garlic cloves, crushed ¼ tsp chilli flakes, to serve (optional)
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onions, carrots and celery, and fry for 8 mins until softened, stirring occasionally. Stir in the stock and chipotle, bring to the boil, and simmer for 10 mins 2 Ladle half of the soup into a blender and blitz. Pour the blitzed
50 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
soup back into the pan, then add the chicken, peas, lemon juice and some seasoning (use smoked salt, if you have it). Simmer for 5 mins to warm through. 3 Stir the lemon zest into the crème fraîche along with the garlic and 2 tbsp water to loosen. 4 Divide the soup between bowls, swirl in the crème fraïche and top with the chilli flakes, if using. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 354 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 5g • carbs 19g • sugars 13g • fibre 7g • protein 32g • salt 0.8g
Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist LIBERTY FENNELL | Stylist LUIS PERAL
£1.57 per serving
easy midweek £1.88 per serving
Roasted teriyaki veg bowl SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V
400g cooked brown rice 4 spring onions, finely sliced 1 tbsp toasted black and white sesame seeds
300g long-stemmed broccoli 2 baby pak choi, quartered 2 red onions, cut into 3cm wedges 1 red pepper, deseeded and sliced 4 carrots, chopped into wedges 400g can chickpeas, drained 2 tbsp sesame or olive oil 4 tbsp teriyaki sauce 1 large thumb-size piece of ginger, grated
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Chop the broccoli stalks, leaving the florets whole, and put all of it in a large bowl. Add the pak choi, red onions, peppers, carrots, chickpeas (patted dry with kitchen paper), oil, 3 tbsp of the teriyaki sauce and the ginger. Toss until everything is coated and season lightly. Tip onto a large non-stick
baking sheet in a single even layer, using two trays if needed. 2 Bake the veg for 35-40 mins, tossing halfway through until starting to brown. When there is 5 mins of cooking time left, heat up the rice. Divide the rice between the bowls and top with the roasted veg. Drizzle over the reserved teriyaki sauce and scatter with the spring onions and sesame seeds. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 402 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs55g• sugars16g• fibre14g• protein15g• salt 1.6g
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 51
easy family
family
summer holidays Whether you’re planning a UK getaway this year or filling the time with fun day trips and garden play dates, we’ve got the recipes you need to keep the kids fed and happy through the break
recipes CASSIE BEST & ESTHER CLARK photographs MIKE ENGLISH
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 53
CAMPING TRIP
Mango chutney campfire cheese toasties MAKES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
100g grated mozzarella 100g medium or mild cheddar, grated 2 spring onions, thinly sliced (optional) 8 slices white bread 4 tbsp mango chutney, plus extra to serve small knob of butter, for frying (optional)
1 Combine both cheeses and the spring onions, if using, in a bowl. Pile the cheese mix over four of the
bread slices, then spread 1 tbsp chutney over each of the remaining slices. Sandwich the slices together to make four toasties. 2 If you’re cooking over a barbecue, put the sandwiches on a griddle for 2 mins, flip and cook for 2 mins more. Transfer to sheets of foil using tongs and tightly wrap. Return to the griddle and cook for 3-4 mins more, or until the cheese is melted. Alternatively, melt a little butter in a pan. Fry the sandwiches for 2-3 mins on each side, weighing them down with a second pan or other heavy heatproof object. Cut the toasties into fingers and serve with more chutney for dunking. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 361 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 9g • carbs 39g • sugars 9g • fibre 2g • protein 17g • salt 1.9g
COOKING ON A CAMPFIRE Prep ahead For the first night of camping, prepare a chilli or bolognese in advance for reheating on site. Or, pack a salad to serve with pan-fried fish or burgers. Pack the dressing in a jar to mix through the salad just before serving. Be sure to eat whatever you’ve prepped within a day of making it. Take spices Garam masala, ras el hanout or a chipotle spice mix can transform one-pan dishes or add lots of flavour to a campfire curry. Check out Rooted Spices (rootedspices.com) for great spice blends or make your own. Get the kids involved Bring small chopping boards and knives or veg peelers and get the kids to help you prep fruit and veg around the campfire (under supervision, of course!). It’s an easy way to get them interested in cooking. Threading marshmallows onto skewers, wrapping potatoes in foil or picking stalks off of strawberries are all simple ways to get them involved.
easy family
PICNIC
Veggie hummus pasta salad This is a great pasta salad for kids and adults alike. Dish up for the little ones first, then scatter with pul biber chilli flakes and crumbled feta for the grown-ups. You can use shop-bought hummus if you like – just loosen it with a little of the pasta cooking water to make a smooth dressing. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
400g can chickpeas, drained and liquid reserved 1 tbsp tahini 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil ½ garlic clove ½ lemon, zested and juiced
250g short pasta of your choice 50g baby spinach, roughly chopped 200g cherry tomatoes, halved (we used a mixture of red and yellow) ¼ cucumber, quartered lengthways and cut into small triangles 75g pitted olives of your choice, roughly chopped
1 Boil the kettle. Tip half the chickpeas into a food processor, add roughly half the reserved liquid from the can (the liquid should come to just below the level of the chickpeas in the blender), the tahini, olive oil, garlic, lemon zest and juice and some seasoning. Blitz until you have a smooth, loose hummus. Check for seasoning. 2 Cook the pasta following pack instructions. Drain, reserving a mugful of the cooking water, and
rinse the under cold running water for a few seconds until cool. 3 Toss the cooked pasta, spinach, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, the rest of the chickpeas and the hummus dressing together in a large bowl until everything is well-coated. Add a splash of the reserved pasta cooking water if the dressing is too thick. Will keep covered and chilled for up to 6 hrs, or in an airtight container in a cool bag for 2 hrs. Add a splash of water to loosen the dressing again before serving. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low cal • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 385 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 51g • sugars 3g • fibre 9g • protein 13g • salt 0.7g
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 55
GARDEN PLAY DATE
PBJ cookie ice cream sandwiches MAKES 8 ice cream sandwiches plus 500ml ice cream PREP 20 mins plus overnight freezing COOK 12 mins EASY V ❄ ice cream only
For the ice cream 120g frozen raspberries 1 lemon, juiced 2 tbsp icing sugar ½ tbsp liquid glucose (optional) ½ x 397g can condensed milk 600ml double cream 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
For the cookies 200g peanut butter 50g golden caster sugar 125g light brown soft sugar 1 egg
1 For the ice cream, tip the berries into a food processor with the lemon juice, sugar and glucose, if using. Blitz until smooth. Push the raspberry purée through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Whisk the rest of the ingredients together in another bowl for 5 mins until thick, then spoon into a freezerproof container or large loaf tin. Ripple through the raspberry purée using a skewer. Cover and freeze overnight. 2 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Line two large baking sheets with baking parchment. Mix the
56 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
peanut butter and sugars together in a bowl with a large pinch of salt. Beat in the egg until you have a stiff dough. Break off cherry-tomatosized lumps of dough (you should get about 16) and arrange on the baking sheets, well spaced apart. Press the cookies down with the back of a fork. Bake for 10-12 mins until golden. Leave to cool on the sheets. Once cool, sandwich a scoop of ice cream between two cookies just before serving (you should use half the ice cream). The remaining 500ml ice cream will keep frozen for three months. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 490 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 17g • carbs 34g • sugars 32g • fibre 2g • protein 9g • salt 0.3g
easy family
BLACKBERRY PICKING
FOR AGING FOR FOOD
Jammy blackberry & almond crumble cake
Blackberry picking is one of our favourite British summertime traditions, but there are a few things to consider when foraging:
SERVES 12-16 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V
225g butter, plus extra for the tin 225g golden caster sugar, plus 1 tbsp 3 medium eggs 275g plain flour 2 tsp baking powder 50g ground almonds 2 tbsp milk 1 tsp vanilla or almond extract 3 tbsp berry jam of your choice (we used blackcurrant) 150g blackberries handful of flaked almonds
Don’t pick blackberries by the side of a busy road – they’ll be coated in pollution and car fumes. Avoid any brambles that are below knee-height, where dogs may have relieved themselves. Take thick gardening gloves to prevent any thorny injuries. A coat hanger can help you reach and pull down higher branches, which hold the juiciest berries. Take only what you will eat, leaving a fair share for the birds and wild animals who may rely on the berries, as well as for other foragers.
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4, butter a 20cm square tin and line with baking parchment. Beat 200g of the butter and 200g of the sugar together in a large bowl using an electric whisk until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until well combined. When smooth and creamy, add 225g of the flour, the baking powder, almonds, milk and vanilla, and mix to combine. 2 Scrape the mixture into the tin and level the surface with a spatula. Dot over teaspoons of jam, then scatter over the blackberries, pressing them in gently. 3 To make the crumble topping, weigh the remaining 25g butter and 25g sugar into a bowl, add the rest of the flour and a pinch of salt. Rub the ingredients together between your fingertips until they are a crumbly consistency. Mix in the flaked almonds, then scatter the crumble over the cake. Scatter with the 1 tbsp caster sugar and bake for 45 mins until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. 4 If the cake isn’t ready, return to the oven for 5-10 mins more, then check again. Leave to cool for at least 20 mins in the tin before slicing and serving. PER SERVING (16) 281 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 8g • carbs 32g • sugars 18g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.5g
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 57
Carrot cake fridge flapjacks, p60
GO EXPLORING How to keep the kids going during a long stroll: Pack a hearty snack, like our fruity flapjacks (p60) to see them through to lunch. Wrap in baking parchment and string to make them feel like proper homemade energy bars. Make sure your picnic is exciting and filling, but not so much that it will cause drowsiness. Avoid sugary snacks and instead pack a mixture of sandwiches, colourful veg and homemade dips for dunking. Save
58 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
any sweet treats, like a small cake or biscuits, for the walk back to the car or the journey home. It’s important to stay hydrated. Fill up bottles of flavoured water (we like to add lemon, lime or orange slices to our bottles, as well as mint sprigs and strawberries) and chill overnight. The fruity water will taste and seem more interesting, but it’s equally as healthy as plain water.
easy family
next month Back-to-school dinners Easy meals for busy days in our September issue, on sale 26 August
Tortilla chips ‘n’ dips, p60
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 59
easy family
Carrot cake fridge flapjacks MAKES 12 PREP 15 mins plus soaking and 3 hrs chilling COOK 50 mins EASY V
170g butter, chopped, plus extra for the tin 200g pitted dates, roughly chopped 250g honey 2 large carrots, coarsely grated 300g rolled oats 100g dried cranberries 150g dried apricots, chopped 70g chopped walnuts 70g mixed seeds 2 tsp mixed spice 2 tsp ground cinnamon
WATCH A FILM
Tortilla chips ’n’ dips If the weather doesn’t play ball, gather the kids indoors to watch a film with chips ’n’ dips. You can make the guacamole and salsa up to a day before serving. The cheesy queso-style dip should be made on the day and served warm. SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V
200g tortilla chips (see tip, right) For the guacamole 2 ripe avocados, stoned, peeled and halved ½ lime, juiced For the salsa 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 200g cherry tomatoes, quartered ½ large mild red chilli, finely chopped (optional) ½ lime, juiced pinch of sugar For the queso dip 1 tbsp plain flour 200ml milk 100g soft cheese
For the icing 1 tbsp soft cheese 2 tbsp icing sugar, sieved 1 small orange, zested, plus 1-2 tbsp orange juice
1 Boil the kettle. Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 31/2, butter a 20 x 30cm cake tin and line with baking parchment. Tip the dates into a heatproof bowl and cover with 60ml boiling water from the kettle. Set aside to rehydrate for 10 mins, then tip into a food processor and blitz until smooth. 2 Melt the butter and honey in a saucepan over a low heat, stirring until smooth. Tip the carrots, oats, cranberries, apricots, chopped walnuts, mixed seeds, mixed spice,
150g mature cheddar, grated pinch each of ground turmeric, ground cumin and cayenne pepper (optional)
1 For the guacamole, scoop the avocado flesh into a bowl and mash with a fork until smooth. Stir in the lime juice with a pinch of salt. Mix the salsa ingredients together in another bowl and season with salt. Cover both dips and chill until you’re ready to serve, or up to a day ahead of serving. 2 Warm the tortilla chips in a low oven or make your own (see tip, right). Just before serving, combine the queso dip ingredients in a small saucepan and stir over a low heat until the cheese has melted and the mixture is smooth. Pour into a bowl. 3 Arrange the bowls of dips on a board or platter, pile the tortilla chips around the bowls and serve. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 460 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 12g • carbs 26g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 12g • salt 1.1g
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cinnamon and a small pinch of salt into a large bowl. Stir the sweetened butter and puréed dates into the dry ingredients until combined, then tip into the prepared tin and press into an even layer using a spatula. Bake for 45-50 mins, covering with foil halfway through if the flapjacks brown too quickly. Cool in the tin. Once completely cool, chill in the fridge for at least 3 hrs. 3 For the icing, whisk all of the ingredients together until smooth. Drizzle the icing over the flapjacks and cut into 12 bars. Will keep, covered in the fridge, for three days. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 466 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 9g • carbs 59g • sugars 41g • fibre 7g • protein 7g • salt 0.3g
HEALTHY SNACKS FOR KIDS Try these simple ideas for keeping the kids happy between meals: Thread berries, melon cubes, pineapple chunks, kiwi or mango slices onto small skewers Crispy chickpeas are a healthier alternative to crisps (visit bbcgoodfood. com for the recipe) Serve veg crudités with spiced yogurt dip – just mix natural yogurt with mild curry powder and mango chutney
tip HOMEMADE TORTILLA CHIPS Cut 4 corn or wheat wraps into triangles using a pizza cutter, toss with 2 tsp vegetable oil and a pinch of paprika, then arrange in a single layer on one large or two small baking trays. Bake for 10-15 mins at 180C/160C fan/ gas 4, tossing the chips around halfway through cooking, until crisp.
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ALLERGY ALERT If you’re hosting a play date or party for lots of children, check with parents or guardians for allergies before planning lunch or snacks. Nuts, sesame, milk, eggs, wheat and berries are all common allergies in children.
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Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food and prop stylist AMY KINNEAR
COUNTRY WALK
Granola crumble cake
Dote on
SERVES 8
S
COOK 40 mins
EASY
your oats
From crumbly cookies to sumptuous flapjacks, reinvent your favourite sweet treats with the great taste of Jordans’ granola
ure, granola is guaranteed to hit the spot at breakfast time, but these wonderfully crunchy oat clusters can be used to make all sorts of delicious treats – and it doesn’t get much better than this showstopping granola cake. Made with Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola Raisin & Almond, the baked, honey-glazed oats provide optimum crunch, while the juicy raisins and aromatic almonds offer the perfect balance of sweetness. The result is an irresistible dessert that can be shared with loved ones or savoured all on your own with a warming cup of tea. And, when you choose Jordans, you’re not only enjoying oats that are
PREP 20 mins
a treat for your taste buds – they’re a treat for the planet too. That’s because the brand works with farmers who share the same unwavering passion for sustainability and wildlife protection. Real care is always in Jordans’ nature.
Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola Raisin & Almond
Simple and tasty – or rather simply tasty – this wonderful granola is made with crunchy wholegrain oat clusters that are baked in honey and mixed with plump raisins and sultanas, plus earthy almonds. For a more exotic twist, why not try the tropical taste of Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola Fruit & Nut? It features chopped pineapple, banana and papaya!
250g butter, plus extra for the tin 250g Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola Raisin & Almond 150g light muscovado sugar, plus 1 tbsp 250g self-raising flour 1 tsp ground mixed spice 250g ready-to-eat dried apricots, chopped 2 apples, cored and thinly sliced 2 tbsp lemon juice crème fraîche, ice cream or natural yogurt, to serve
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4
and butter and line a 20cm loose-based cake tin with baking parchment. In a large bowl, combine the Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola, the 150g sugar, flour, spice and a pinch of salt. Melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat, then stir into the dry ingredients. Tip half of the mixture into the cake tin. Press down lightly. 2 In another bowl, mix the apricots, apples and lemon juice together, then arrange about two-thirds in the cake tin. Sprinkle the remaining granola mixture on top and press down lightly, then scatter over the rest of the fruit and sprinkle with the 1 tbsp sugar. Bake for 35-40 mins, or until firm and golden brown. 3 Leave to cool in the tin for 20-30 mins, then transfer to a board and carefully remove the baking parchment. Serve warm or cold with a little crème fraîche, ice cream or natural yogurt.
For more tempting recipe inspiration, visit jordanscereals.co.uk/recipes
easy family
good advice
family matters Our food director and mum of two Cassie Best shares advice for planning day trips to the seaside, plus a rocky road recipe for kids
Tropical rocky road Pack these fruity bites for your next day out. You can use any dried fruit, nuts or biscuits you have in the cupboard. Dried pineapple and mango give them a lovely tropical twist. CUTS INTO 16 squares PREP 25 mins plus 2 hrs chilling COOK 5 mins EASY
100g butter 100g golden syrup 200g dark chocolate, chopped 100g milk chocolate, chopped 100g coconut Nice biscuits 80g dried banana chips 100g dried tropical fruit (we used mango and pineapple), roughly chopped 50g Brazil nuts, roughly chopped 50g mini marshmallows 50g desiccated coconut 1 ball of stem ginger, finely chopped
1 Line a 20 x 20cm baking tin with baking parchment. Put the butter, syrup, chocolate and a pinch of salt in a saucepan. Set over a low heat for a few minutes, stirring, to melt. 2 Crumble the biscuits and banana chips into a large bowl, leaving some pieces larger than others to create texture. Tip in the dried tropical fruit, nuts, marshmallows, coconut and ginger, then stir into the chocolate mixture, ensuring that everything is well coated. Pour into the prepared tin, then use the back of a spoon to press the mixture down and level the surface. 3 Chill for at least 2 hrs or until firmly set, then cut into 16 squares. Will keep in an airtight container for up to three days. PER SERVING 296 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 11g • carbs 26g • sugars 19g • fibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g
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LET’S GET OUTSIDE The UK’s beaches offer the perfect escape for a fun day out with the kids. Look out for Blue Flag accreditation, which signifies excellent water quality and environmental education programmes. Avoid the crowds Plan to arrive early with breakfast packed for the journey and secure the best spot on the beach, or go late in the afternoon to avoid peak UV levels. Either way, you’re less likely to get stuck in traffic. Take some shade To avoid burn-outs and scorched skin, pack umbrellas, tents and windbreaks. A small garden play tent is ideal for the beach – you can fill it with toys or beach-themed colouring books to give the kids a break from the sun, or just for some downtime. Splash in safety If your little ones love the water but you want to keep them out of the sun, pack a small paddling pool. Fill it with with buckets of seawater and bath toys under a big umbrella. They can splash happily while you relax. Stay hydrated Keep water on hand all day – there’s nothing like the salty sea air to make you feel parched. Leave frozen bottles of water in the car, so when you return you’ll have cold water ready for the drive home, and won’t be tempted to buy single-use plastic. Finally…don’t forget spare change for ice creams!
Pictures ARIEL SKELLEY/DIGITAL VISION/GETTY, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS
KIDS IN THE KITCHEN
Your first port of call Dreaming of your next getaway? Marella Cruises is doing everything it can to ensure you get the safe and relaxing break you deserve
I
f you’re a keen foodie, it really doesn’t get much better than a cruising holiday. After all, few other trips allow you to experience culinary creations from not just one, but several new countries – and then there’s the delicious fare that’s also available on board. Marella Cruises can’t wait to get you back cruising again, but it also understands you may have some estions before setting sail. From on board social distancing measures to restaurant bookings, Marella’s cruise expert Tori McCrindle is on hand to answer your queries, so you can have total peace of mind. Here are just some of the important questions you’ve asked… Q | Will I need to take a Coronavirus test every time I visit a port? You’ll need to take a lateral flow test before travelling on a UK coastal cruise. Once on board, you won’t need to take another test, but daily temperature checks will be standard practice. More regular testing may be required for
international destinations and Marella Cruises will update travellers if this is the case. Q | Will all restaurants be open? Restaurants will be okay with just a few changes. We’ll be social distancing, of course, as well as following the current guidance for wearing a mask on board. In our buffet restaurants, the team will be on hand to serve you and we’ll allocate you a seat on arrival to help avoid queues. We recommend booking ahead for the speciality restaurants.
free or cancel with a full refund if you’re travelling to a red-list destination, which we know requires you to quarantine in a hotel on your return, so we simply won’t be going there. Correct at time of print.
Q | Are all staff vaccinated? All crew will follow robust testing procedures, with testing when they board the ship, followed up by regular testing and daily temperature tests. They will also have to complete a period of quarantine once they board the ship and before guests are allowed on board. Q | Can we join other people at tables? As we’re social distancing, you should only dine with people in your cabin, from the same household or travelling party. For now, you won’t be able to share a table with people you’ve met on the cruise. Q | What will happen if a port on the itinerary moves onto the red list? As part of the Marella Cruises Promise to you, you can change your booking for
For more information and to book your cruise, head to tui.co.uk/cruise, visit your local TUI Travel shop or call 0203 636 1862
frozen assets
veggie lasagne
Combine two Italian classics in this pasta bake that you can freeze before or after baking recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph JAMES LEE
Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist TAMARA VOS | Stylist LUIS PERAL
Aubergine parmigiana lasagne My parents made aubergine parmigiana to serve with lamb when I was a child, but I was always more interested in the cheese-and-tomato-topped, basil-spiked aubergines than I was the roast. When I started making it for my family, I wanted to turn it into a substantial meal while still keeping it meat-free. It evolved into this veggie lasagne that I batch-cook and freeze. SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V ❄
3 large aubergines, trimmed and thinly sliced lengthways 4 tbsp olive oil 250g vegetarian mozzarella, drained and coarsely grated 50g vegetarian Italian-style hard cheese, grated 1 bunch of basil, leaves picked and roughly chopped, plus extra to serve 8 dried lasagne sheets (egg lasagne sheets are best for this) For the tomato sauce 2 tbsp olive oil 6 garlic cloves, finely sliced
¼ tsp golden caster sugar 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 3 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes
1 For the sauce, heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat and fry the garlic for 1 min until golden. Add the sugar and vinegar, simmer for 30 seconds, then add the tomatoes. Season with salt and return to a simmer. Bubble for 10 mins, then remove from the heat and set aside. Can be prepared up to two days ahead and chilled. 2 Heat a griddle or large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Brush the aubergine slices on both sides with the olive oil and season with a little salt, then griddle in batches until the slices are softened and slightly charred (ensure the heat isn’t too high or the aubergine will char before it softens). Transfer the cooked slices to a plate as you go. 3 To assemble, lay a third of the aubergine slices over the base of a rectangular or square gratin dish, then pour over a third of the sauce. Scatter with a small handful of both cheeses (you’ll want to keep most of the cheese for the top) and half the basil, then top with half the lasagne sheets. Repeat once more, then
64 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
finish with a final layer of aubergines topped with the rest of the sauce. Scatter over the remaining cheese. After leaving to cool completely, the dish can be covered and chilled for up two days or frozen for up to three months. Defrost fully before cooking. 4 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the dish on a baking tray and bake for 30 mins until the cheese is golden and the sauce is bubbling at the edges. Leave to cool for at least 10 mins, then scatter with the reserved basil and serve. The cooked lasagne will keep frozen for up to three months, covered with foil. Defrost thoroughly, uncover and bake as stated above. Or to cook from frozen, bake at 180C/160C fan/gas 4 for 40 mins. Remove the foil, turn the oven up to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and bake for a further 30 mins. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • calcium • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 466 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 9g • carbs 41g • sugars 12g • fibre 7g • protein 20g • salt 0.6g
easy anytime
FRIDGE RAIDERS Aside from freezing well, this dish can easily be reheated from chilled. It is as good (if not better) served warm rather than piping hot, so is a great option for busy weekdays when different members of the family can raid the fridge and help themselves as and when it suits.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 65
guest chef
veggie bbq stars Shake up your next barbecue with these clever new meat-free ideas from cookery writer Rukmini Iyer
Food stylist and writer Rukmini Iyer is the author of the bestselling Roasting Tin series of cookbooks. She has appeared on Saturday Kitchen and Dr Rupy Aujla’s Doctors’ Kitchen on BBC. @missminifer
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Barbecue tofu lettuce wraps with cashews, carrots & nuoc cham, p68
easy anytime
Aubergine & goat’s cheese burger stacks with honey & thyme, p68
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 67
Barbecue tofu lettuce wraps with cashews, carrots & nuoc cham This is a combination I first tried in Vietnam. Nuoc cham is such an addictive dipping sauce that it’s tempting to drink it straight up. If you can resist, save some and use it for your crispy tofu instead. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
280g firm tofu 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 garlic clove, grated 1 tbsp sesame oil For the carrot pickle 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar For the nuoc cham 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 small red chilli, thinly sliced 21/2cm piece of fresh ginger 1-2 tbsp soy sauce 1 /2 lime, zested and juiced To serve 1 small Cos lettuce, leaves separated handful of toasted cashews
1 Cut the tofu into large cubes and put in a bowl with the lime zest and juice, soy sauce, garlic and sesame oil. Mix gently to coat, then cover and set aside. 2 For the carrot pickle, mix the carrot matchsticks with the rice vinegar, caster sugar and 1/2 tsp sea salt. Cover and set aside. 3 To make the nuoc cham, use a pestle and mortar to bash the garlic, chilli and ginger to a rough paste. Alternatively, grate all the ingredients into a jug. Add the soy sauce, 50ml water, lime zest and juice, and taste. You can add more soy sauce, water and lime as preferred, then set aside. 4 When your barbecue is good and hot and the coals look ashen, griddle the marinated tofu for 2-3 mins per side until lightly charred and crisp. Sprinkle with a pinch of sea salt. 5 Arrange the lettuce leaves on a platter and add a spoonful of carrot pickle to each. Top with the crispy tofu, then scatter with the cashews and drizzle over some nuoc cham. Serve the remaining nuoc cham on the side for dipping. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • calcium PER SERVING 142 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • fibre 2g • protein 10g • salt 1.4g
&
Recipes adapted from The Green Barbecue (Vegan & Vegetarian Recipes to Cook Outdoors & In) by Rukmini Iyer (£17.99, Square Peg), Photographs by David Loftus. Recipes supplied by the publisher are not retested by us.
Rukmini Iyer will be cooking with Bryn Williams and Matt Tebbutt in the Saturday Kitchen studio on 4 September. Watch at 10am on BBC One or catch up on BBC iPlayer.
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Aubergine & goat’s cheese burger stacks with honey & thyme One of my favourite Spanish dishes is berenjenas con miel – aubergines, deep-fried in batter, served with honey. It occurred to me that goat’s cheese is just as lovely with honey as aubergine, and so these moreish stacks were born. The cheese melts between the aubergine slices, scented with thyme – perfect as they are or served in crusty white rolls. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
2 large, evenly sized aubergines 2 x 100g rind-on goat’s cheese wheels (vegetarian if needed) handful of fresh lemon thyme sprigs olive oil, for brushing honey, to serve crusty bread rolls, to serve
1 Cut the aubergines into 1cm slices, and the goat’s cheese into very thin rounds. Sandwich each piece of cheese between two similarly sized slices of aubergine, along with a sprig of lemon thyme. Brush both sides of the aubergine stack with oil and season. 2 Once your barbecue is hot and the coals look ashen, put the aubergine stacks on the grill and cook for 10-15 mins per side until the aubergine is cooked through and the cheese has melted. You can flip them every 5-6 mins or so and give them a brush with olive oil. 3 Transfer to a serving platter, drizzle with honey, scatter over the remaining lemon thyme, and serve with crusty rolls on the side. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 253 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 9g • carbs 14g • sugars 13g • fibre 7g • protein 13g • salt 0.8g
easy anytime
Vanilla-roasted berries with brioche, mascarpone & almonds This deconstructed spin on a summer pudding (where deconstructed is code for ‘much, much easier’) lets you gently cook the fruit in a parcel on the barbecue, and toast your brioche alongside it. You can replace the chilled mascarpone with ice cream, if you prefer. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
150g blackberries 275g raspberries
225g grapes or blueberries 2 tsp caster sugar 1 vanilla pod, split 8 slices of brioche 4 tbsp chilled mascarpone handful of toasted almonds
1 Put the blackberries, raspberries and grapes or blueberries in the middle of a sheet of foil. Scatter over the caster sugar, lay the vanilla pod on top, then fold the foil into a neat parcel, with the seams at the top. 2 Once your barbecue is medium hot and the coals look ashen, put the
parcel on one side of the barbecue, and cook the berries for 10-15 mins. Meanwhile, toast your sliced brioche in batches on the other side of the barbecue, then cut them into triangles once they’re toasted. 3 Divide the lightly cooked fruit between four plates, with the toasted brioche on the side. Add a tablespoon of mascarpone to each, scatter over the toasted almonds and serve warm. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 617 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 16g • carbs 82g • sugars 28g • fibre 7g • protein 12g • salt 1.2g
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 69
storecupboard & LIME CHIPOTLE IN DRESS G
Turn a few simple ingredients into a delicious marinade to transform barbecued meats or vegetables, or use as salad dressing for flavourful, filling bowls
Coconut-chilli marinade
Chipotle & lime dressing
Rub this over chicken thighs or white fish, then marinate overnight to impart all the wonderfully fragrant flavours of coconut, chilli and fish sauce.
Drizzle this over tacos or prawnbased salads. If you love Mexican chipotle chillies, you’ll enjoy this. In the UK, you can find chipotle as a paste or flakes, but traditionally, they’re sold as whole dried chillies or in adobo (a vinegary tomato sauce that preserves them).
recipes ESTHER CLARK
Pulse a thumb-sized piece of ginger, grated, 2 roughly chopped chillies, 7 tbsp sesame oil, 2 tbsp fish sauce and 40g desiccated coconut to a chunky paste in a food processor.
Whisk 2 tbsp chipotle paste, the juice of 2 limes and 80ml light olive oil together. Season to taste.
GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 243 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 8g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 1g • salt 2g
GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER TBSP 57 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 0.3g • sugars 0.3g • fibre none • protein 0.1g • salt 0.1g
photographs MIKE ENGLISH
SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY
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MAKES 100ml PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V
Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food and prop stylist AMY KINNEAR
5-ingredient marinades
For this 5-ingredient feature, we assume you already have storecupboard staples like oil
COCONUT -CHILLI MARINADE
easy anytime
ILLI PEANUT, CHOIL & GARLIC
HARISSA-H O MARINADENEY
GINGER TURMERIC-ADE MARIN
Turmeric-ginger marinade Slather this on chicken wings or tofu overnight. Turmeric, like ginger, is a root and grows in India and South East Asia. It’s grated or dried and ground into a powder. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V
Toast 2 tsp ground turmeric and 1/2 tsp chilli powder in a dry frying pan. Mix with a grated thumb-sized piece of ginger, 2 crushed garlic cloves and 3 tbsp vegetable oil. Season. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 83 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 1g • sugars 0.4g • fibre 1g • protein 0.3g • salt 0.04g
Peanut, chilli & garlic oil
Harissa-honey marinade
Spoon this fiery oil over instant noodles, ramen, crispy fried eggs on toast and steak salad. Crispy chilli oil is eaten with dumplings in China, and this is very loosely based on that. Peanuts add crunch.
Try this on chicken or halloumi skewers, and use as a glaze. Harissa is a Tunisian hot chilli paste made with red peppers, herbs and spices. The ‘rose’ variety also includes finely ground dried rose petals for a floral undertone.
MAKES 200ml PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V
Thinly slice 2 large garlic cloves. Heat 200ml sesame oil in a pan and sizzle the garlic until lightly golden. Leave to cool. Stir in 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar, 1-2 tsp chilli flakes, 2 tbsp soy sauce and 40g finely chopped peanuts. Tip into a 200ml jar, season and shake well.
SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V
Combine 2 tbsp rose harissa, 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 crushed garlic clove and 3 tbsp honey. Season with salt. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 113 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 15g • sugars 14g • fibre 0.2g • protein 0.3g • salt 0.1g
GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER TBSP 104 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 2g • carbs 1g • sugars 0.5g • fibre 0.1g • protein 1g • salt 0.2g
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 71
friday night treat
tex-mex salad Enjoy all the flavours of a taco night in this colourful bowl salad recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph TOM REGESTER
Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist HANNAH WILKINSON
Taco salad You can serve this as one big salad or in individual bowls. Just like a taco, you can make it your own and add whatever your favourite toppings are. Sliced radishes and jalapeños would work well, if you enjoy spicier flavours. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
1 red onion, sliced 1 lime, juiced 1 tbsp sunflower oil 400g lean beef mince ½ pack taco or fajita seasoning 1 tbsp tomato purée 400g can black beans, drained but not rinsed 200g tortilla chips 1 small Iceberg lettuce, shredded 2 avocados, peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes, chopped into chunks 100g feta, crumbled small bunch of coriander, chopped or leaves picked
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For the dressing ½ lime, juiced 5 tbsp soured cream chilli sauce (optional), plus extra to serve
1 Mix the red onion with half the lime juice and a pinch of salt in a small bowl, then set aside. 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-low heat, and crumble in the mince. Cook for 15-20 mins – the mince will release some liquid, but once this has bubbled away, it will sizzle in its own fat. At this point, stir or toss with a wooden spoon so the mince browns and caramelises all over. If the pan becomes too dry, add a drizzle more oil. When the mince is well toasted, sprinkle over the taco seasoning and cook for 2 mins, then stir through the tomato purée and pour over the rest of the lime juice and let it sizzle for another minute. Stir through the black beans and turn up the heat to medium, continuing to cook until
everything is hot. Taste for seasoning, then set aside. 3 To make the dressing, mix the lime juice with the soured cream and chilli sauce, if using, season, then set aside. 4 Scatter a handful of tortilla chips into a bowl, then add a layer of lettuce, then the mince and black beans. Top with the avocado slices, chopped tomato, pickled red onions, along with any juices, and the feta. Drizzle with the dressing, then finally scatter over the coriander. Tuck more tortilla chips around the sides of the bowl, then serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 733 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 13g • carbs 48g • sugars 8g • fibre 12g • protein 37g • salt 2.4g
easy anytime
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 73
two ways
hot dogs Two members of our cookery team bring you different versions of this summertime staple
recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY and CASSIE BEST photograph TOM REGESTER
The classic hot dog gets a plant-based makeover with a vegan sausage and pineapple salsa. But, this zingy topping tastes just as good on standard hot dogs, too.
barney
Once I’ve lit my barbecue for the first time in summer, I look for ways to get the most out of it and impart smoky flavour on anything I can. So, forget how you might feel about pineapple on pizza – when it’s caramelised over coals and turned into the sharp, sweet, smoky salsa that I pile onto my hot dogs, you’ll see that this tropical fruit isn’t just for dessert. The hot dogs are plant-based, too, so as well as being vibrant and delicious, this recipe is for everyone to enjoy. Barney Desmazery, skills & shows editor 74 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
easy anytime
cassie
When it comes to hot dogs, I keep things simple. For the ‘dog’ itself, it has to be a frankfurter. You can cook them in lots of different ways, but I like warming them gently in a pan of simmering water to keep them juicy and prevent the skins from splitting. Toppings-wise, caramelised onions, ketchup and American mustard are a must for me. When a friend made me her New York-style hot dogs with street-cart onions, it was love at first bite. The onions are the star, cooked with honey, hot mustard and warming cinnamon and chilli. Sauerkraut is optional, but I think, essential to balance the fatty sausages and sweet, spicy sauce. Cassie Best, food director
For an extra touch, add a spoonful of sauerkraut to your hot dog. It’s tangy and a bit sour, which helps keep the taste of the other toppings (and the salty, fatty hot dog) in check.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 75
easy anytime
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
4 vegan frankfurters 4 hot dog buns, split (ensure vegan, if needed) sriracha, to serve For the salsa 2 slices prepared pineapple or 200g fresh pineapple chunks 1 small red onion, trimmed and halved 1 green chilli ½ lime, juiced small handful of coriander leaves
NYC-style hot dogs with street-cart onions MAKES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY
4 large frankfurters 4 hot dog buns, split sauerkraut, to serve For the caramelised onions 1 tbsp vegetable oil 2 large onions, halved and sliced ¼ tsp ground cinnamon large pinch of chilli powder 2 tbsp honey 2 tsp American-style mustard, plus extra to serve 2 tsp ketchup, plus extra to serve 2 tsp tomato purée 2 tsp cider or white wine vinegar 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
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1 Light a barbecue and wait until the coals are ashen, set a gas barbecue to medium, or heat a griddle pan over a medium-high heat. To prepare the salsa, cook the pineapple, onion halves and the chilli for 5-10 mins, turning, until charred. Remove everything to a board and leave to cool, then chop the pineapple and veg (you can roughly or finely chop, depending on your preference). Tip into a bowl, season with salt, then stir in the lime juice and coriander. Set aside. 2 Grill or griddle the frankfurters for 10-15 mins, turning until there are char marks on all sides and they begin to blister and sizzle. If you
have space on the grill or in the griddle pan, toast the cut side of the buns at the same time. If not, do this after the frankfurters are cooked, but watch the buns carefully as they will be toasted in less than a minute. 3 Serve the pineapple salsa in a bowl alongside the frankfurters, buns and sriracha and let everyone build their own dogs. Alternatively, stuff the buns with the frankfurters, spoon over the salsa and drizzle with the sriracha.
1 First, make the onions. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a low-medium heat and cook the onions for 10-12 mins until golden and slightly charred in spots. 2 Stir in the cinnamon, chilli powder, honey, mustard, ketchup, tomato purée, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, 2-3 tbsp water and a pinch of salt. Simmer for 1-2 mins until the onions are saucy, adding a splash more water if they seem dry. Taste and add a little more chilli powder, mustard or a pinch of sugar, if you like. Keep the onions warm if you’re serving straightaway or cool and chill. Will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to five days. Reheat over a low heat before serving, adding a splash of water to loosen as needed. 3 Light a barbecue and wait until the coals are ashen, set a
gas barbecue to medium or heat a griddle pan over a medium heat. Alternatively, bring a pan of water to a simmer. Cook the frankfurters for 15 mins on the barbecue or in a griddle pan until charred, or for 8 mins in a pan of simmering water. If using a barbecue, warm the buns over the coals, if you like. Spoon a little sauerkraut into each bun, top with a frankfurter and spoon over the onions. Drizzle over some extra mustard and ketchup.
GOOD TO KNOW vegan • low fat • low cal PER SERVING 231 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 2g • carbs 36g • sugars 9g • fibre 4g • protein 9g • salt 1.3g
GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 402 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 6g • carbs 39g • sugars 20g • fibre 4g • protein 14g • salt 2.1g
tip SUMMER TASTE AWARDS To discover our favourite supermarket hot dog buns and vegetarian sausages, head to bbcgoodfood.com.
Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist HANNAH WILKINSON
Tropical vegan hot dogs
Presents
John Torode
Lottie Bedlow
3 night scenic Seacation Departing 10th September on Sky Princess
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*All-inclusive cruise from £389pp based on two guests sharing a balcony stateroom on voyage Y124P – 3-night scenic cruise. **Guests must be fully vaccinated. For these cruises the definition of “vaccinated” is a minimum of seven days following the second dose of the currently approved COVID-19 vaccines being administered. For full terms and conditions see princess.com/summerseacations.
weeknight pudding
sunshine sponge If you thought sponge pudding was just for winter, think again – here, we give it a tropical upgrade recipe LIBERTY MENDEZ photograph YUKI SUGIURA
Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist MAX ROBINSON
Passion fruit & lemon self-saucing pudding Nothing screams summer like the sweet yet tart flavours of passion fruit and lemon. This punchy pud is the ideal weeknight treat as it’s quick to make and creates its own saucy layer while it bakes. Serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream for a contrast of warm and cool. SERVES 8 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V
100g unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, plus extra for the baking dish 275g self-raising flour 1 tsp baking powder 150g golden caster sugar 2 lemons, zested 200ml whole milk 3 large eggs 1 large passion fruit, halved and pulp scooped out vanilla ice cream, to serve For the sauce 100g light brown soft sugar 2 lemons, juiced 2 large passion fruits, halved and pulp scooped out 4 tbsp lemon curd
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1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and butter a deep baking dish (about 20 x 30cm and 5cm deep). Tip the flour, baking powder, sugar, lemon zest and a pinch of salt into a large bowl. Put the melted butter, milk, eggs and passion fruit pulp in a jug and whisk together. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and mix together using a spatula until you have a smooth batter. Pour the batter into the prepared dish. 2 For the sauce, whisk the sugar, lemon juice, passion fruit pulp and lemon curd together in a heatproof bowl with 300ml boiling water from the kettle. Carefully pour the sauce directly over the batter in the dish, then bake for 40-45 mins until the top is set and golden, and the sauce is bubbling up at the edges. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream. PER SERVING 416 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 8g • carbs 63g • sugars 37g • fibre 3g • protein 8g • salt 0.6g
twist RASPBERRY & LEMON PUDDING Swap the passion fruit pulp in the batter for 100g raspberries. For the sauce, blitz another 100g raspberries to a purée in a blender, strain through a fine mesh sieve and use in place of the passion fruit.
easy anytime
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reduce waste
use your leftovers Make the most of any surplus from our August recipes using these quick and clever ideas FROM THIS ISSUE Smoky chicken sauce If you’re making a white sauce or gravy, use any leftover broth from the smoky chipotle chicken soup on p50 instead of stock. This would work as a pie filling, as a baked pasta sauce or sauce for enchiladas.
Calamari rolls Any leftover calamari & aioli from p36 would make a superior sandwich filling. Halve a small crusty roll and spread with the aioli, add shredded lettuce, then stuff with the calamari (cold or reheated in the oven).
Lemony lamb & fennel hotpot Make a cheat’s hotpot using Melissa’s Sunday recipes (p96). Shred leftover lamb into an ovenproof dish, cover with leftover fennel & lemon boulangère potatoes, then crumble over any leftover feta. Bake again to reheat the lamb and crisp up the topping.
Greek-inspired chicken pasta salad Toss any cut-up leftover red onions, tomatoes and shredded barbecued chicken from p32 through cold cooked pasta along with some feta. Drizzle with olive oil and squeeze over a little lemon juice. Serve any leftover tzatiki on the side.
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2 WAYS
Raspberry ripple ice cream If you’ve made our raspberry ripple ice cream on page 56, there are many ways you can serve it. Raspberries pair beautifully with lemon, so try a scoop with a wedge of lemon drizzle or lemon polenta cake. Or try the following recipe ideas:
Raspberry milkshake Put scoops of the ice cream in a blender with fresh raspberries, whole milk and a little honey, then blitz together until thick and fully combined. Rasberry shortbread sundae Drizzle any surplus raspberry purée (see p56) around a sundae glass, add scoops of ice cream and top with crushed shortbread biscuits, more raspberry purée, fresh berries and whipped cream.
easy anytime
WHAT TO DO WITH
◆ pittas Spiced pitta crisps Open 2 pittas and cut each
MIDWEEK MAGIC
Transform basic ingredients that you may have in stock after using our shopping list (page 47) MAKE MORE OF
◆ spring onions Champ
Soy dressing
Mash potatoes with butter, a splash of milk and seasoning, then stir through sliced spring onions. Serve as a side dish with pies or casseroles.
Fry chopped spring onions in hot oil with chopped ginger and sliced red chilli. Leave to cool, then add soy sauce to taste. Use as a dipping sauce or dressing.
Cheese & onion omelette
Charred spring onions
Fold spring onions and grated cheese through beaten eggs before frying for a quick omelette for one.
Rub with olive oil, then barbecue or griddle until lightly charred. Serve as a side or roughly chop and toss through a salad.
HOW TO USE
◆ tahini A little tahini goes a long way but the excess keeps well in the fridge once you’ve opened the jar. Then you can try these ideas. Tahini brownies Tahini can be rippled through brownie batter before baking or added to buttercream to top cakes. Tahini dressing Stir some through a salad dressing to make it thick and creamy.
Sesame noodles Stir tahini through cooked instant noodles. Scatter over sliced spring onions. Quick slaw Mix some tahini with mayo, miso and white wine vinegar. Toss through shredded cabbage and grated carrot.
with 2 tbsp olive oil, then season with 1 tsp cumin seeds and 1 /2 tsp dried chilli flakes. Bake in the oven at 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 for 10 mins until crispy. Will keep in an airtight container for up to two days. Pitta pocket toasties Halve 1 pitta widthways and open into two pockets. Fill each with a small handful of grated cheese and any other ingredients you want, then put in the toaster, cut-side up, until toasted and the cheese has melted. Easy garlic pitta bread Put 2 pittas on a baking tray and finely grate 1 garlic clove over each one. Slather each in a large knob of softened butter and bake in the oven at 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 for 8-10 mins until the butter has melted. Cut into strips and serve.
GOOD FOOD & SUSTAINABILITY At BBC Good Food, we seek realistic solutions to avoid food waste and packaging, and adhere to the three Rs: 1) Reducing food waste 2) Recycling packaging 3) Reusing food storage packaging and containers. To find out more, go to bbcgoodfood. com/reduce-reuse-recycle. Plus, listen to the Food Programme’s inspiring Food Waste Pioneers broadcast about people who tackle food waste issues on BBC Radio 4.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 81
The perfect gift for any foodie this summer Choose from over 30 chapters of our best-ever recipes, hand-picked by the BBC Good Food team, then complete it with a personalised cover. Whether you’re looking for family favourites, inspiring healthy lunches or Good Food’s best bakes, we’ve got you covered from just £20.
Treat yourself or a friend VISIT mycookbooks.bbcgoodfood.com or scan the code to create your cookbook
easy health
health
news
Health editor Tracey Raye explores gut health and shares a recipe for kefir overnight oats, plus discover the benefits of hemp seeds HEALTH TREND
HEALTH HACKS
Your gut bacteria affects a number of bodily processes, from digestion and immunity to mental wellbeing.
Food stylist LIBERTY FENNELL | Stylist ROB MERRET
Pictures ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS | Recipe SARA BUENFELD | Shoot director SARAH SNELLING
Does gut health affect our weight? Evidence suggests that gut bacteria may also have an impact on our weight. Not only do the bacteria in your gut affect digestion and energy storage, they also appear to influence when and how much you eat by producing important chemicals, which can make you feel full – all factors that contribute to a healthy weight. The health of this gut bacteria is heavily influenced by diet and nutrient availability, so eat nutritious wholefoods and prebiotic fibres to help support this system. For more, visit bbcgoodfood.com/ does-gut-health-affect-weight.
DISCOVER
HEMP SEEDS Seeds of the hemp plant, cannabis sativa, are incredibly nutritious
Richinomega-3and omega-6 fatty acids
Greatsource of vitamin E
Moreprotein thanchia or flaxseed
Containscalcium, magnesium and zinc
Raspberry kefir overnight oats Wake up to this gut-friendly, probiotic-rich breakfast pot. Prep in just 10 mins the night before, and top with a layer of berries, dark chocolate and seeds, stirring it in as you eat it. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus overnight chilling NO COOK EASY V
85g gluten-free jumbo oats 1 tbsp shelled hemp seeds, plus 2 tsp to serve 1 tbsp chia seeds 2 x 120g pots kefir yogurt 240g semi-skimmed milk 125g pack raspberries, lightly crushed 2 tsp pumpkin seeds, chopped 8g 70% cocoa chocolate, finely chopped
MAKE IT DAIRY-FREE Coconut kefir overnight oats Make as above, replacing the kefir yogurt with 185g coconut milk
1 Tip the oats, 1 tbsp of the hemp seeds and the chia seeds into a bowl, then mix well. Stir in the kefir yogurt and milk. Cover and chill overnight. The mixture will thicken overnight as it soaks. 2 The next morning, spoon into & two glass tumblers and top with the Tune in to the raspberries, remaining hemp seeds, BBC Good Food Health Podcast the pumpkin seeds and chocolate. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • calcium • vit c • fibre • gluten free PER SERVING 442 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 5g • carbs 48g • sugars 16g • fibre 9g • protein 20g • salt 0.3g
tip HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN OAT MILK Get the recipe at bbcgoodfood. com/recipes/oat-milk
kefir and the dairy milk with 285ml unsweetened oat milk (see tip above if you want to make your own). Choose a dairy-free chocolate or omit this.
– in episode 3 Tracey speaks to nutritionist and functional medicine practitioner Daniel O’Shaughnessy about nutrition within the LGBTQ+ community – available to download from Acast, Spotify, iTunes and podcast streaming services.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 83
healthy diet plan
what’s for lunch?
Conjure up a moreish meze-style spread using a variety of produce – best enjoyed in the sunshine recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph MIKE ENGLISH
Healthy veggie platter SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V
Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist FAYE WEARS
CALCIUM
IRON
VIT C
1 lemon 1 large red pepper, deseeded and quartered 1 large courgette (about 225g), sliced into rounds the thickness of a £1 coin 1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil, plus a drizzle (under 1 tsp) 400g butter beans, drained, liquid reserved 1 tbsp tahini 1 garlic clove 2 cooked beetroot (not in vinegar), sliced (165g) 1 tbsp chopped dill ½ small red onion, finely chopped 100g natural yogurt a pinch of smoked paprika 6 pitted Kalamata olives, halved handful of mint leaves, chopped if large extra virgin olive oil for drizzling, (optional)
1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Peel a strip of zest from the lemon and finely chop it. Rub the pepper and courgette with a small drizzle of olive oil, then arrange in a single layer on a baking tray (the pepper should be skin-side down). Scatter the the chopped lemon zest over the pepper, then roast for 30 mins, turning the courgettes over halfway through. 2 Meanwhile, tip the butter beans into a bowl with 2 tbsp of the liquid from the can. Squeeze over the juice of the lemon that you pared the zest from, then add the tahini, 1 tbsp oil and the garlic, and blitz with a hand blender until smooth, adding more liquid from the can if it’s too thick. Taste and add a little salt, if needed. 3 Spoon the mixture onto plates, then top with the beetroot, dill and onion, then the courgettes. Drizzle over the yogurt, then sprinkle with paprika. Scatter over the peppers, olives and mint, then drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • calcium • iron • folate • fibre • vit c • fibre • gluten free • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 375 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 3g • carbs 34g • sugars 19g • fibre 15g • protein 17g • salt 0.6g
Scan here to sign up for a free My Good Food account and access our latest Healthy Diet Plan, or visit bbcgoodfood.com/healthy-diet-plan
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easy health
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WEEKEND
Savour balmy afternoons with Melissa Thompson’s slow-cooked Sunday lamb, or ideas for late-summer produce, then cool down with our best frozen desserts
CURRIED CORN WITH COD & PRAWNS p110
3 WAYS Fried chicken with pineapple hot sauce, p90
SUMMER ROAST Slow-roast lamb with prunes & garlic, p94
GF TREASURES Strawberry shortbread frozen yogurt, p100
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 87
1 I N G R E D I E N T – 3 WAY S
SMOKED PAPRIKA In our new series we share three of the best ways to use an ingredient, beginning with this storecupboard spice. Let chef and food writer Milli Taylor inspire you photographs JONATHAN GREGSON
I
t’s the unmistakable taste of Spain: smoked paprika is earthy and pungent, with a deep crimson colour. If you haven’t cooked with it, you must. It’s the spice that gives chorizo, paella and romesco sauce their distinctive smoky flavour. Like parmesan or champagne, smoked paprika has a certified Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). It’s produced in La Vera in Extremadura and only 17 companies make it, yielding 4.5m kilos annually. Four varieties of red pepper ripened on the vine are hand-picked, then the peppers are laid out in a room with a small oak-wood fire. There, they slowly dry out and take on the flavour of the gentle smoke. Though traditional methods are still used, the quality control at each stage is rigorous – the peppers are hand-turned each day by the farmers to ensure even drying, smoking for up to two weeks. They’re then meticulously sorted through and ground into a powder in small quantities using stone mills. The minimal temperature produced by stone-grinding helps maintain the paprika’s quality and flavour. There are three varieties to choose from: dulce (sweet and mild), agridulce (bittersweet) and picante (hot). What I most love about smoked paprika is that it can be added to a dish and the food will immediately take on the smoky flavour of cooking on coals or wood, without you going anywhere near a barbecue. For example, in my corn recipe on page 90, if you don’t have a means to grill the corn, you can simply boil the cobs – the smoked paprika butter will impart a charred taste to the dish. Remember to use it sparingly, though, as a little goes a long way.
Milli Taylor is a self-taught chef and cookbook author who runs Milli’s Catering, servicing weddings, cocktail parties and other events as well as hosting supper clubs. Her first book Party Perfect Bites (£16.99, Ryland Peters & Small) was released in 2014. milliscatering.co.uk @milliskitchen @millitaylor
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weekend
Sweetcorn with smoked paprika & lime butter, p90 AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 89
SERVES 4 as a side dish PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V
4 whole corn cobs 80g salted butter, softened 1 tsp hot smoked paprika 2 limes, zested then halved 20g parmesan or vegetarian alternative, finely grated 1 tbsp vegetable oil, for brushing small handful of coriander, to garnish
Fried chicken with pineapple hot sauce SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus overnight brining COOK 20 mins EASY
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs 2 heaped tsp fine sea salt 500ml buttermilk 200g rice flour 100g cornflour 31/2 tsp baking powder 2 tsp hot smoked paprika 2 tsp garlic granules 1 tbsp dried oregano 1 litre vegetable oil, for deep-frying 10g oregano leaves
1 Quarter each chicken thigh, then tip into a large bowl. Season well with the salt, then pour over the buttermilk and give it all a good mix. Cover and chill overnight. 2 Combine the rice flour, cornflour, baking powder, paprika, garlic granules, dried oregano, 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper in a medium bowl. Drop in the brined chicken pieces, four at a time, tossing lightly to coat well. Gently shake off any excess, then arrange on a baking tray. 3 Heat the oil in a large, deep saucepan (ensuring it is no more than two-thirds full) to 170C or
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1 Peel back the corn husks, then trim away using a sharp knife and discard. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, lower the heat to medium and cook the corn cobs for 10 mins. If you’ll be cooking the corn in a frying pan instead of the barbecue, cook for 13 mins. 2 Meanwhile, make the paprika & lime butter. Mix the softened butter with the paprika until fully combined. Stir in half the lime zest and half the parmesan. 3 Light the barbecue, if using, and wait until the coals are ashen. Alternatively, heat a dry frying pan over a medium heat until hot. Drain
the corn, pat dry with kitchen paper and brush lightly with the oil. Cook for 7-10 mins in the hot pan or on the barbecue, turning every couple of minutes until golden and slightly charred in spots. 4 Remove the corn to a plate using tongs and spread the paprika butter all over it. Sprinkle with the rest of the parmesan, the coriander and the remaining lime zest. Serve with the lime halves for squeezing over.
until a cube of bread dropped in browns within 30 seconds. Fry the chicken in small batches for 3 mins at a time until golden and cooked through. This will help keep the oil at the right temperature and won’t overcrowd the pan. 4 Remove the fried chicken pieces to a clean tea towel using tongs to drain off any excess oil, then transfer to a wire rack to ensure they stay crisp. Alternatively, put the fried chicken on a clean baking tray and keep warm and crisp in a low oven. When all the chicken pieces have been fried, drop the oregano leaves into the hot oil and fry until crisp, about 30 seconds1 min. Arrange the chicken on a serving platter, scatter over the fried oregano and serve with the pineapple sauce (right).
Pineapple hot sauce
GOOD TO KNOW calcium • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (with pineapple hot sauce) 647 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 6g • carbs 82g • sugars 19g • fibre 4g • protein 34g • salt 5.3g
GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 312 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 12g • carbs 14g • sugars 4g • fibre 8g • protein 7g • salt 0.5g
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus overnight marinating COOK 10 mins EASY V
350g prepared pineapple chunks (use fresh, not canned) 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1/2 tsp smoked paprika 1/2 tsp cayenne or chilli powder 1 tbsp honey 20g butter
1 Blitz the pineapple in a blender until smooth, then tip into a dry frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the lime zest and juice. Stir in the chilli, paprika, cayenne or chilli powder and a pinch of salt and cook for about 5 mins, stirring continuously. 2 Tip in the honey and let the mixture bubble for a couple more minutes until slightly thickened. Pour into a small heatproof bowl, stir in the butter and leave to cool. Will keep covered in the fridge for up to five days. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 98 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 3g • carbs 13g • sugars 13g • fibre 2g • protein 1g • salt 0.1g
Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist JO HARRIS
Sweetcorn with smoked paprika & lime butter
weekend
Fried chicken with pineapple hot sauce
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 91
weekend
Salpicón de marisco At my favourite tapas bars in Malaga they sprinkle a little smoked paprika over prawn skewers – it transforms them entirely. This seafood salad is a traditional tapa (often made with octopus), but I like to add an untraditional sprinkle of smoked paprika. It should be vinegary and tastes best with flavourful summer tomatoes and the highest-quality olive oil you can find. It’s also a great get-ahead dish, as it can all be prepared the day before. SERVES 4 as a starter PREP 35 mins plus at least 2 hrs chilling COOK 5 mins EASY
750g mussels in their shells 50ml sherry 1 garlic clove, sliced 1 bay leaf 1/2 red onion, finely chopped
1/2 green pepper and 1/2 red pepper, both cut into 1cm chunks 1/2 cucumber or 2 small Lebanese cucumbers, halved lengthways, deseeded and cut into 1cm chunks 3 tomatoes, quartered, deseeded and chopped 300g cooked king prawns, shelled and deveined 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped sweet smoked paprika, for sprinkling For the dressing 150ml extra virgin olive oil 50ml sherry vinegar 1/2 tsp sugar
1 Wash the mussels in a colander to remove any grit. Remove any stringy beards from the shells and check for any that are slightly open – give these a tap on a work surface, and discard if they remain open. 2 Tip the mussels into a large pan, then add the sherry, garlic and bay. Cover with a lid and steam over a
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medium-high heat for 3-4 mins, or until the mussels open. Drain and discard any unopened mussels. Remove and discard the shells. Set aside and leave to cool. 3 Tip the onions, peppers, cucumber and tomatoes into a bowl, then stir in the prawns, mussels and parsley. 4 Shake all the dressing ingredients in a sealed jar with some seasoning. Alternatively, whisk together in a small bowl. Pour over the salad, then gently stir to coat. Cover and chill for at least 2 hrs or overnight. 5 Bring the salad out of the fridge 30 mins before serving. Spoon onto a serving plate and sprinkle with a pinch of paprika, remembering that a little goes a long way. GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 487 kcals • fat 39g • saturates 6g • carbs 6g • sugars 6g • fibre 2g • protein 23g • salt 1.8g
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N E W WAY S F O R S U N D AY S
SUMMER
SLOW-ROAST Melissa Thompson shares a succulent lamb recipe with prunes, punchy sides and a tropical fruit dessert that’s ideal for entertaining in warmer weather photographs LOUISE HAGGER
Sunday, for me, means slow-roast lamb. Laid-back, minimal effort for maximum reward, and best enjoyed with your nearest and dearest. The prunes in the marinade give a lovely rich sweetness that’s never cloying, which goes hand-in-hand with the roasted garlic and slight tang from the pomegranate molasses. The spices are for background pleasure; you know they’re there, but they take the backseat. Fennel & lemon boulangère potatoes make a light summer side, while the broccoli with feta adds freshness and crunch. To round off the meal, the coconut panna cotta can be made a day in advance, and it’s deceptively straightforward. The coconut is subtle, but you can accentuate it with essence if you like. Serve it with mango, some crushed ginger nuts and a sprinkling of lime zest, and you have a winning summer pud. Melissa
Melissa is one of our regular columnists as well as running recipe project Fowl Mouths, through which she innovates in the kitchen and helps to drive change in the food industry. She’s a vocal advocate for the promotion of black and minority ethnic people in this field, and in 2021 has earned the prestigious Food Writing Award by the Guild of Food Writers. @fowlmouthsfood
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weekend
MENU Slow-roast lamb with prunes & roasted garlic Fennel & lemon boulangère potatoes Broccoli with charred red peppers & feta
Coconut panna cotta with mango & ginger nuts
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 95
Slow-roast lamb with prunes & roasted garlic SERVES 6-8 PREP 20 mins plus at least 30 mins marinating and resting COOK 4 hrs 45 mins EASY
2 whole garlic bulbs 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 whole lamb shoulder, approx 2.5kg 1½ tbsp plain flour or cornflour 150ml white wine For the marinade 12 dried prunes 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground black pepper ½ tbsp dried thyme 1 tsp salt
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Remove any loose skin from the garlic bulbs and slightly fan the
Fennel & lemon boulangère potatoes SERVES 4-6 as a side PREP 25 mins COOK 1 hr 5 mins MORE EFFORT V
1.5kg Maris Piper potatoes 2 onions 1 tbsp fennel seeds, crushed 1 lemon, zested and juiced 450ml vegetable or chicken stock 50g unsalted butter
Broccoli with charred red peppers & feta SERVES 4-6 as a side PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V
2 red peppers 1 large head of broccoli 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed 100g feta, crumbled
1 Scorch the red peppers directly over the largest flame on the hob for around 5 mins until they blacken,
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cloves without removing them from the root. Put on a sheet of foil, then drizzle with the 2 tbsp oil and sprinkle with salt. Wrap in the foil, and roast in the oven for 30-35 mins until soft. Leave to cool. 2 For the marinade, put the prunes in a jug with 100ml boiling water for 10 mins until soft. Squeeze the roasted garlic flesh from the skins into the jug, then add the rest of the marinade ingredients. Whizz together using a hand blender until smooth. 3 Put the lamb in a large baking dish. Make small incisions with a sharp knife, then pour the marinade over, massaging it into the holes. Cover with foil and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 30 mins or up to 24 hrs. 4 Turn the temperature up to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and put the lamb in the oven, immediately turning it down to 150C/130C fan/
gas 2. Cook for 3-4 hrs, until the lamb has pulled away from the bone. Remove from the oven. 5 Pour the juices into a jug, then skim off the layer of fat. Turn the grill to high, then brown the lamb for 10 mins. Remove, loosely cover with the foil, and rest for 20 mins before shredding the meat. 6 Add 11/2 tbsp of the juices to a saucepan over a medium heat and mix in the flour or cornflour. Cook for 3 mins, stirring, until it starts to colour, then add the wine, and simmer to reduce the liquid by half. Stir in the remaining meat juices. Taste for seasoning, then serve with the lamb and sides (below).
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Peel and slice the potatoes as thinly as possible, ideally using a mandoline. Peel the onions and cut through the middle lengthways, then slice finely lengthways. 2 Layer the potatoes and onions in a circular pattern in a deep baking dish, about 30 x 20cm. Sprinkle the fennel seeds, lemon zest and a small pinch each of salt and pepper between the layers, until all the potatoes and onions have been used.
3 Pour over the stock and lemon juice. Dot the butter all over the top, then cover the dish loosely with foil. Cook in the oven for 45 mins, then remove the foil and cook for another 20-25 mins. It’s cooked when a knife goes easily through the middle. Rest for 10 mins before serving.
rotating frequently. If you don’t have a gas hob, you can use a barbecue or an oven grill on the highest setting. Once blackened, put in a container with a lid and leave to cool. 2 Peel the skin off and remove the seeds and any pith from inside. Slice thickly, reserving any juices. Sieve the juices to remove any seeds. 3 Cut the broccoli into large florets. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the broccoli for 5 mins, stirring regularly, until starting to to turn golden brown. Add the onion, garlic, some seasoning and 100ml water,
then put the lid on the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for a further 5 mins, stirring regularly. 4 Pour in any remaining pepper juices, mix and spoon onto a serving plate. Place the red pepper slices on top and scatter over the feta.
GOOD TO KNOW iron PER SERVING (8) 485 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 11g • carbs 13g • sugars 8g • fibre 2g • protein 47g • salt 1g
GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • vit c PER SERVING (8) 231 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 3g • carbs 38g • sugars 4g • fibre 5g • protein 4g • salt 0.2g
GOOD TO KNOW healthy • folate • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (6) 121 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 3g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • fibre 5g • protein 7g • salt 0.4g
weekend
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Coconut panna cotta with mango & ginger nuts SERVES 6-8 PREP 10 mins plus at least 3 hrs chilling COOK 20 mins EASY
2 x 400ml cans full-fat coconut milk 60g golden caster sugar 200ml double cream 4 leaves of gelatine 10 ginger nut biscuits 400g can mango slices, or sliced fresh mango 1 lime, zested
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1 Pour the coconut milk into a saucepan and warm over a mediumhigh heat for about 20 mins, stirring frequently so it doesn’t catch, until reduced by about a quarter (you need around 600ml remaining). Stir in the caster sugar to dissolve, then pour in the double cream. Meanwhile, soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for 10 mins. Squeeze out any excess liquid, then add to the coconut milk mixture, stirring until the gelatine has dissolved completely. 3 Divide the mixture between six-eight ramekins (about 140ml each) and set aside until the mixture has cooled. Chill for at least 3 hrs until set, or overnight.
4 Put the ginger nuts in a sandwich bag and use the end of a rolling pin to crush them to a rough powder. Divide the mixture between six to eight small plates, spreading thinly. 5 Prepare a bowl of warm water and dip the ramekins in to loosen the edges. Carefully turn them upside down in the middle of each plate and tap gently until freed. 6 Add a couple of mango slices beside each panna cotta, and sprinkle over the lime zest. Serve straightaway. PER SERVING (8) 398 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 24g • carbs 23g • sugars 16g • fibre 1g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g
Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist EMILY KYDD | Stylist LUIS PERAL
weekend
26 - 29 August 2021 | NEC Birmingham There are just a few weeks until our tasty BBC Good Food Market makes its way to Birmingham for this year’s outdoor Special Edition of BBC Gardeners’ World Live! Get your tickets now and look forward to a well-deserved day out with friends and family.
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Good Food Market
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Lots of your favourite artisan producers from the BBC Good Food Show will come together to create a buzzing outdoor market. Sample and shop your way around the selection of delicious food, drink and gifts.
Get top tips for growing tasty homegrown produce from the editors of Gardeners’ World Magazine. Plus, find outdoor living inspiration aplenty in the Show Gardens and Beautiful Borders.
Monty Don and Carol Klein join the show at the My Gardeners’ World Stage with expert advice, behind the scenes stories and more ideas for your garden than you can shake a spade at!
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Soak up the atmosphere with BBC Gardeners’ World Live favourites including the Floral Marquee, shopping, bandstand, street food, Pimm’s, picnics and more.
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Book in confidence knowing that, should the event be unable to go ahead, tickets can be transferred to a future event or refunded.** *10% off adult/Over 65s standard 1-day tickets only. Not valid on Saturday or with any other offer. Offer ends 03/08/21. **Refunds exclude transaction fee and See Tickets Refund Protection cost. £3.50 transaction fee per e-ticket order and £4.50 per postal ticket order. Details correct at time of print. The Gardeners’ World logo is a trademark of the BBC. © BBC. The Good Food trade mark is used under licence from Immediate Media Company London Limited. Organised by Immediate Live (trading name of River Street Events Ltd).
TREASURES
OUR FAVOURITE FROZEN DESSERTS Hosting a garden get-together? Treat your guests to one of these top-rated chilled puds from our archives
There’s nothing better than gathering friends and family in the garden on a warm summer afternoon. Enjoy their company while sipping your cocktail, safe in the knowledge that dessert is already prepared. These make-ahead frozen treats are easy to make, delicious and cooling – ideal for serving in the sunshine. Liberty Mendez, recipe developer
Strawberry shortbread frozen yogurt The flavours of strawberry shortcake in this dessert are pure nostalgia, and the addition of frozen yogurt makes it extra summery. Complement the fresh fruit by serving scoops alongside a frozen strawberry daiquiri. SERVES 8-10 PREP 20 mins plus at least 4 hrs freezing NO COOK EASY V ❄
550g strawberries, hulled 500g Greek-style yogurt 397g can condensed milk 2 tsp vanilla bean paste or extract 200ml double cream 8 shortbread biscuits, crushed (optional) 2 tbsp freeze-dried strawberries (optional)
1 Put 400g of the strawberries in a food processor and blitz to a smooth purée. Chop the remaining strawberries into small pieces
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and set aside. Add the yogurt, condensed milk and vanilla to the food processor, then blitz again to combine. 2 Pour the cream into a bowl and lightly whip until it’s just holding its shape. Add roughly a third of the puréed strawberry mixture, folding it in with a spatula, then mix in the remainder along with the chopped strawberries. 3 Pour half of the mixture into a freezerproof container. Scatter over half of the shortbread crumbs and half of the freeze-dried strawberries, if using. Spoon over the rest of the yogurt mixture, then sprinkle over the remaining shortbread and freeze-dried strawberries. Freeze for at least 4 hrs until solid. Remove from the freezer 10-15 mins before scooping. Will keep frozen for up to two months. GOOD TO KNOW vit c PER SERVING (10) 398 kcals • fat 24g • saturates 15g • carbs 36g • sugars 29g • fibre 1g • protein 8g • salt 0.4g
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Vegan chocolate ice cream SERVES 10 PREP 25 mins plus churning and freezing COOK 20 mins EASY V ❄
2 x 400g cans coconut milk (not light) 175g caster sugar 50g cocoa powder 100g dark chocolate, chopped (ensure it’s vegan, if needed) 1 tsp sea salt flakes 1 tbsp vanilla extract or 1 heaped tsp vanilla bean paste 2 tbsp cornflour
smooth. Pour this into the hot milk mixture and cook for another 5-10 mins, stirring constantly until it thickens to a pourable custard consistency. Strain into a bowl, then cover and leave to cool to room temperature. 3 Pour the cooled custard into an ice cream maker and churn for 20-30 mins until you have a soft-scoop ice cream. Transfer to a freezerproof container, seal
and freeze. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, pour the mixture into a wide-based plastic tub or dish. Freeze for 3 hrs, stirring every 20 mins to break up any large ice crystals, until you have a soft ice cream. Transfer to a freezerproof container, seal and freeze until ready to serve. Will keep frozen for up to three months. Leave to stand for 10 mins at room temperature before scooping into bowls or cones. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 296 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 15g • carbs 27g • sugars 22g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.5g
1 Pour most of the coconut milk into a saucepan, reserving a splash in a small bowl for later. Add the sugar, cocoa, chocolate, sea salt flakes and vanilla to the pan. Heat gently over a low heat for 10 mins until the sugar has dissolved and the chocolate has melted. 2 Mix the cornflour with the reserved coconut milk until
Frozen blackberry fool SERVES 8 PREP 15 mins plus freezing NO COOK EASY V ❄
300g blackberries 1 lemon, juiced 85g golden caster sugar 300ml double cream shortbread biscuits, to serve
1 Mash most of the blackberries with the lemon juice and half the sugar. Whip the double cream with the remaining sugar. Fold the whipped cream and blackberry mix together to make a mauve-coloured cream, then tip into a freezerproof container and freeze until set. Will keep frozen for up to three months. 2 Scoop into glasses, then serve with the shortbread and remaining blackberries on the side. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 475 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 25g • carbs 26g • sugars 26g • fibre 3g • protein 2g • salt none
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Pistachio rosewater kulfi SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins plus chilling, churning and at least 4 hrs freezing COOK 10 mins MORE EFFORT V ❄
200g pistachios, shelled, plus a handful, roughly chopped, to serve 250g golden caster sugar 2 tsp cornflour 600ml whole milk 600ml evaporated milk 4-5 tbsp rosewater handful of cherries or any seasonal berries, to serve
1 Tip the pistachios and sugar into a food processor and pulse until you have fine crumbs – be careful not to overblend or the pistachios will become oily. Mix the cornflour with 1 tbsp of the whole milk to make a smooth paste. 2 Pour the rest of the whole milk and the evaporated milk into a saucepan. Bring to the boil. Add the pistachio crumbs, rosewater and cornflour paste, and simmer for 5 mins until thickened and coating the back of a spoon. 3 Pour the mixture into a bowl and cover the surface with baking parchment so a skin doesn’t form. Leave to cool completely (it will
thicken further during this time), then chill in the fridge until cold. Churn in an ice cream machine following the manufacturer’s instructions. If you don’t have an ice cream machine, transfer to a freezerproof container, seal and freeze for 4 hrs until frozen, stirring every hour using a fork to break up any ice crystals. Will keep frozen for up to three months. 4 Take out of the freezer 20 mins before serving. Scatter with the chopped pistachios and cherries. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • gluten free PER SERVING 436 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 8g • carbs 46g • sugars 43g • fibre 3g • protein 14g • salt 0.4g
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Blueberry & coconut frozen ‘cheesecake’ bars These bars satisfy my sweet tooth, but are lower in refined sugars than some other desserts thanks to the dates, blueberries and agave. SERVES 10-12 PREP 25 mins plus 2 hrs freezing NO COOK EASY V ❄
4 To make the topping, blitz most of the blueberries and the dates with the remaining cashews in the food processor. Take the tin out of the freezer again and spoon over the topping, then scatter with the reserved blueberries. Return to the freezer for at least 1 hr to firm up.
280g unsalted cashew nuts sunflower oil, for the tin For the base 140g unsalted almonds 140g pitted dates For the ‘cheesecake’ layer 100g coconut cream 2 tbsp coconut oil, melted 2 tbsp agave syrup 1 tsp vanilla extract ½ lemon, juiced For the topping 140g blueberries 5 pitted dates
1 Tip the cashews into a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water from the kettle. Soak for 10 mins, or overnight in cold water if you have time. Lightly oil a 20 x 20cm square cake tin. 2 To make the base, whizz the almonds and dates together in a food processor until finely chopped. Tip this into the prepared cake tin and press the mixture down, smoothing it with the back of a spoon until evenly spread across the base. Put in the freezer to firm up while you make the ‘cheesecake’ layer. 3 Drain the soaked cashew nuts and tip half into the food processor. Add the coconut cream, melted coconut oil, agave syrup, vanilla and lemon juice, and blitz until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Remove the tin from the freezer and spread the mixture over the base. Return to the freezer for another 30-40 mins until firm.
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Will keep frozen for up to two months. Remove from the freezer 10 mins before serving, then slice into 10-12 bars and serve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING (12) 329 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 6g • carbs 24g • sugars 20g • fibre 3g • protein 8g • salt none
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Chocolate caramel terrine Here’s an impressive-looking pud that’s easy to assemble ahead of your get-together. Dark chocolate and caramel wafers are a classic combination, so it’s sure to please. SERVES 6-8 PREP 40 mins plus cooling and at least 6 hrs freezing COOK 5 mins EASY V ❄
sunflower oil, for the tin 200ml double cream 1 tbsp cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting 300g caramel from a jar or can 100g dark chocolate, finely chopped 200g mascarpone 7-8 caramel wafers (depending on the size of the tin), cut in half lengthways
1 Oil a 900g loaf tin and line with a double layer of baking parchment. Put the cream, cocoa powder, 200g caramel and a pinch of salt in a pan set over a medium heat and bring to the boil, whisking occasionally to combine. Tip the chocolate into a heatproof bowl, then pour over the hot cream mixture. Leave for 1 min, then stir everything together until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Leave to cool slightly for 5-10 mins. 2 Beat the mascarpone into the cooled chocolate mixture using an
electric whisk until smooth, glossy and the whisk leaves a trail behind in the mixture, about 3-4 mins. 3 To assemble the terrine, press the top halves of the caramel wafers into the bottom of the tin, cut-side up, trimming to fit if needed. 4 Beat the remaining caramel with a whisk to loosen it, then spread half of it over the wafers in the tin. Spoon half the chocolate mixture over the top, then arrange the remaining wafer halves over the chocolate layer. Cover with the remaining caramel, ensuring
everything is evenly covered, then top with the rest of the chocolate mixture. Cover the terrine with a strip of baking parchment, then freeze for at least 6 hrs or overnight. 5 Remove the terrine from the freezer 10 mins before serving, then turn out onto a chilled dish or serving plate. Dust generously with cocoa powder before cutting into slices to serve. PER SERVING (8) 538 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 24g • carbs 44g • sugars 33g • fibre 2g • protein 6g • salt 0.3g
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Item: 310022
TO ORDER CALL 0844 502 0050** quoting GF155, VISIT yougarden.com/GF155 or SEND your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s), along with
a cheque payable to YouGarden, to: OFFER GF155, YOUGARDEN, PO BOX 1468, PETERBOROUGH, PE1 9XL Terms and conditions Offer closes 30 September 2021 or while stocks last. Offer subject to availability and in the event that this offer is oversubscribed, we reserve the right to send suitable substitute varieties of the same or higher value. *P&P is £6.99 with delivery to UK mainland only. A £6 surcharge may apply to the following postcode areas: AB, BT, DD8-11, GY, HS, IM, IV, JE, KA27-28, KW, PA20-80, PH19-50, TR21-25 and ZE. Images show mature plants. Full product details and T&Cs at yougarden.com. Your contract is with YouGarden Ltd, Eventus House, Sunderland Road, Market Deeping, PE6 8FD. **Calls cost 5p per minute plus your network provider’s access charge.
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SEASONAL
SUMMER HARVEST
Make the most of late-season apricots, runner beans and sweetcorn with ideas from Esther Clark, plus tips on growing your own from Emma Crawforth of BBC Gardeners’ World photographs YUKI SUGIURA
A
pricots are one of my favourite summer fruits: squishy, fragrant and delicious in both sweet and savoury dishes. My natural inclination is to bake them in a tart with a thick frangipane layer, or in a clafoutis or almond cake. But, they’re also often used in savoury Moroccan dishes with lamb – providing the inspiration for my lamb meatballs on page 110. The roasted fruit complements the fragrant spices and tomatoes, and balances out an otherwise rich and deeply savoury dish. Try cooking apricots this way, or pile on toast with ricotta or goat’s cheese and a drizzle of honey. Runner beans are another fabulous August vegetable. They’re abundant now and delicious with tomatoes or briefly boiled and tossed with a vinaigrette and anchovies. I also like to deep-fry the beans until crisp and dunk them in romesco sauce, aïoli or a spiced harissa dip. However, never eat runner beans raw as they can cause you to feel unwell – always boil for at least a minute before eating. Fresh sweetcorn is an underrated staple. It’s best to buy it in its husk, as this protects the kernels, then once you’ve peeled away the leaves and fibres, boil the cobs and slather in butter or char on the barbecue. Their sweet, nutty flavour pairs well with spice, making it a welcome addition to tacos or curry dishes, such as the cod and prawns on page 110.
Before becoming deputy food editor, Esther trained at Leiths School of Food & Wine, then worked as a chef in Italy. She loves to cook for friends at home, and particularly enjoys creating recipes using new ingredients and seasonal produce. @esthermclark
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Spiced lamb meatballs, roast apricots & fregula, p110
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Curried corn with cod & prawns, p110
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SERVES 5 PREP 15 mins COOK 50 mins EASY
10 small apricots, halved and stoned 4 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely sliced 1 garlic clove, sliced 1 heaped tbsp ras el hanout 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purée 1-2 tbsp rose harissa 350ml lamb or chicken stock 100g fregula or giant couscous For the meatballs 500g lamb mince 60g fresh breadcrumbs ½ tsp chilli flakes ½ tsp ground coriander ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 1 egg yolk ½ bunch of parsley, finely chopped
1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Arrange the apricots on a baking tray cut-side down and roast for 10 mins. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Curried corn with cod & prawns SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
4 corn cobs 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander ½ tsp chilli powder 2 tsp ground turmeric 400ml can coconut milk 400g can cherry tomatoes 4 cod loin fillets 150g raw king prawns small handful of coriander, sliced red chillies, cooked basmati rice and lime wedges, to serve
2 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large, shallow flameproof casserole over a low-medium heat. Cook the onion with a pinch of salt for 15 mins until golden brown and caramelised. Stir in the garlic and ras el hanout and cook for 1 min more. Tip in the tomatoes, tomato purée and harissa, and cook for another 5 mins. Stir in the stock and remove from the heat. 3 For the meatballs, combine the lamb mince, breadcrumbs, chilli, coriander, cinnamon, egg yolk and most of the parsley in a large bowl with a pinch of salt, squishing the mixture together using your hands for around 5 mins. Form into 10 meatballs, weighing for accuracy if you like. Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and fry the meatballs for 5 mins until evenly golden. 4 Stir the fregula and some seasoning into the casserole, then nestle in the meatballs and roasted apricots. Bring to a simmer, then bake in the oven, uncovered, for 15-20 mins or until the meatballs are cooked through. Scatter with the reserved parsley before serving. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 498 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 8g • carbs 36g • sugars 15g • fibre 7g • protein 29g • salt 1g
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cook the corn cobs in a pan of lightly salted boiling water for 10 mins. Drain and leave to cool slightly. Stand the cobs upright on a board and slice the kernels off using a sharp knife in a downward motion along the length of the cob. 2 Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and cook the onion with a pinch of salt for 10 mins until golden and caramelised. Add the garlic, ginger, cumin, ground coriander, chilli and turmeric, and cook for 2 mins more. Tip in the coconut milk and tomatoes, then bring to a simmer. Arrange the cod fillets in a large roasting tin or casserole, then pour the spiced coconut and tomato mixture around the fish. Add the corn and prawns, and bake for 18-20 mins. Scatter with with fresh coriander and chillies and serve with rice and lime wedges on the side for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 480 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 16g • carbs 22g • sugars 11g • fibre 9g • protein 41g • salt 0.7g
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VEG Q&A Emma Crawforth is a qualified horticulturist, trained at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, and is the gardening editor for BBC Gardeners’ World. Here, she shares her tips for growing your own veg.
RUNNER BEANS When are runner beans ready? They’re best when the pods are around 15cm long and tender. They can grow to twice that length, but will become tough and stringy. Harvest twice a week (from three months after sowing) as this prolongs the pod production time. What time of year are they grown? Sow from mid-spring for harvests from midsummer to mid-autumn. Are there different varieties? Runner beans develop ‘strings’ down each side as they age, but some newer varieties are bred to be stringless, such as Galaxy. Dwarf varieties like Hestia suit smaller gardens or containers. Look for varieties with different-coloured flowers for an ornamental veg plot or flower borders. White Lady is a heavy cropper with white flowers. How easy is it to grow your own? Runner beans are easy to grow from spring to autumn, but they’re not frost-hardy. They need a fertile, deep bed with organic matter or large container of rich potting compost in a sheltered spot. Sow outdoors once the soil reaches 12C or start in pots indoors. Provide a tall wigwam for everything other than dwarf varieties, as the plants may reach 3m. Water as soon as flower buds appear.
Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist MAX ROBINSON
Spiced lamb meatballs, roast apricots & fregula
weekend
Runner beans, chorizo & almonds SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
320g runner beans, halved 50ml olive oil 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 3 anchovies, finely chopped ¼ large chorizo ring, sliced 4 large eggs pinch of smoked paprika 30g flaked almonds, toasted ¼ bunch of parsley, finely chopped
1 Cook the beans in a pan of boiling salted water for 3-4 mins or until tender. Drain and set aside. 2 Whisk the olive oil, vinegar and anchovies together until smooth. Season with black pepper and toss with the warm beans. 3 Heat a dry frying pan over a medium heat and fry the chorizo for 2-3 mins until golden brown. Cook the eggs in a pan of simmering water for 6 mins 30 seconds. Drain,
then rinse under cold running water to cool. Peel and halve. 4 Spoon the beans onto plates and top with the chorizo and eggs. Sprinkle with the paprika, almonds and parsley, then serve. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 343 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 6g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 17g • salt 1.2g
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Book your tickets
25 -28 November 2021 NEC Birmingham Entertainment | Tasting Shopping | Inspiration
The ultimate day out for food lovers Make up for a year of missed festivities and gather your friends and family for a day out packed full of fabulous festive shopping, recipe inspiration, hands-on workshops and more at this year’s BBC Good Food Show Winter. Plus, see a star-studded line up of top chefs and experts cooking
live, including Michelin masters Tom Kerridge and Michel Roux Jr, family favourites Nadiya Hussain and James Martin, Show hero Dame Mary Berry and more. Save 15% on tickets* using code GFR3 and get ready for the ultimate foodie day out this winter!
Book in confidence Should the Show be unable to go ahead in light of UK Government or Public Health England guidelines, you can transfer your ticket to a future event or receive a refund.†
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Show highlights
A taste of the season
Gifts and goodies
The Festive Kitchen, sponsored by Taste of Game, will return for 2021! Take a seat in one of the free demos and discover a whole host of alternatives to traditional Christmas meats, with host Chris Bavin and a selection of special guests. More info coming soon.
Shop from hundreds of artisan food and drink producers and your favourite big brands, with everything from sweet treats and seasonal ingredients to unique stocking fillers and the latest kitchen kit.
New!
O Wine Theatre
Test your taste buds
Boost your skills
Wine and dine
Head to the brand new Tasting Theatre hosted by Katy Truss from Fabulous Food Finds to discover delicious new flavours, boutique products and hidden treasures.
Roll up your sleeves and get hands-on in food and drink masterclasses. From mastering the art of sourdough, to kids’ classes for aspiring chefs, there’s so much to choose from.
The olive Wine Theatre will play host to tutored tastings led by expert Kate Hawkings, featuring the best supermarket wines crowned at this year’s Wine Awards.
Kate Hawkings photo credit: Stefan Booth
Calling all bakers!
Treat yourself this year Add some sparkle to your day with our popular VIP Package, including the best Big Kitchen seats, a goody bag, cookbook, glass of fizz and much more! Nestled in the heart of the Show floor, your exclusive VIP Lounge is the perfect place to sit back and relax after a day of shopping and tasting! But hurry, tickets are selling fast so make sure you don’t miss out!
New for 2021, the Get Baking! Stage is the place to go to pick up plenty of sweet and savoury inspiration for your Festive bakes, as well as top tips and new techniques from a host of baking experts. Whether you picked up baking as a hobby over lockdown or you’re a seasoned pro, there’s something for everyone!
*15% off valid on standard 1-day general admission tickets. Ends 26/08/21. **Subscribers save 20% on standard general admission tickets when using their unique subscriber number. Ends 28/11/21. Offers exclude Saturday. £3.50 transaction fee per e-ticket order and £4.50 per postal ticket order. Not all celebrities appear on all days. VIP tickets subject to availability. Details correct at time of print. The BBC logo is a trademark of the BBC. © BBC. The Good Food trade mark is used under licence from Immediate Media Company London Limited. Organised and presented by River Street Events at Immediate Media. †In the event that the BBC Good Food Show is postponed, cancelled or River Street Events and Immediate Media deem it unsafe to run the event in light of UK Government and Public Health England guidelines regarding Covid-19, you will be contacted directly with regards to transferring your booking to a future date or requesting a refund. Please note: refunds exclude the transaction fee and See Tickets Refund Protection cost.
Grenache
Each month Henry Jeffreys showcases a different grape variety, plus get a great deal on a case of summer reds Grenache is one of the unsung heroes of the wine world. Originally from Spain, where it’s known as garnacha, it’s a major component in blends from France to Australia. It produces reds, fortified wines and even rosé. But, it’s now being appreciated as a solo performer in impressive wines in Spain, South Africa, Sardinia and all over the world.
Wine Club star Viña Altogrado Garnacha 2020 From the home of garnacha (Cariñena in Aragon) which has a wealth of old vines, this has ripe strawberry fruit and some all-important freshness. The alcohol is fairly moderate, too, at 14.5% ABV. It’s a great choice for slow-roast shoulder of lamb with cardamom, cumin and cinnamon, or a Greek aubergine dish.
Need to know Grenache is native to Aragon in Spain, where it’s the most-planted variety of grape. It creates reds that are pale in colour, but high in alcohol and fruit. In very hot climates, it can reach 16% ABV. It’s used in some of the world’s most famous wines, such as rioja in Spain and Châteauneuf-duPape and Provençal Rosé (France). At higher altitudes, growers manage to entice delicate floral flavours from grenache and moderate its alcohol content. Even at its most serious, grenache tends to be charming and delicious when drunk young.
Tasting notes Ripe red fruits like strawberries and raspberries head into jam territory in the grenache grown in hot climates like the Barossa valley in Australia. In cooler climates, like Sierra de Gredos in Spain, it has herbal and floral notes, and more moderate alcohol. With age, it takes on cinnamon, nutmeg and cough-medicine-type flavours. Oak aging brings vanilla, cloves and usually darker wines. The texture tends to be soft with gentle tannins, though premium examples from Châteauneuf-duPape are usually more structured. Serve it cool, even as low as 12C, to bring out the floral notes and reduce heat from the alcohol.
Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, selects all of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food readers. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now.
Awineforeverydish Ever wondered which white wine to match with your pasta? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for other wines and impress your friends. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wine-club.
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Subscribers always save more SIX-BOTTLE SUMMER SHOWCASE FOR JUST £38.94 – TURN TO PAGE 42
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What’sinthebox? Rainha do Mar Castelão
Sierra del Plata Malbec
Enjoy fresh raspberry fruit and chocolatey notes in this red from Portugal’s Península de Setúbal. It’s a gold medal winner made by winemaker Jaime Quendera.
A silky, juicy berry Malbec from Argentina’s San Juan. From Antigua Bodega, the owners are rightfully proud of the aromatic freshness that makes this a supple red.
Viña Altogrado Garnacha
Spier The Lucky Five
A vibrant, full-flavoured red from an award-winning cellar. Altogrado has an abundance of intense, ripe raspberries. A deliciously drinkable, moreish drop.
Just north-east of Cape Town, Swartland is gaining a name for boutique wines. You’ll find that in this blend of Shiraz, Cinsault and Grenache, crafted at the trophy-winning Spier Estate.
RedHeads Coco Rôtie A take on France’s classic Syrah Viognier recipe. Made with old vine fruit and classic methods, it’s aged for 14 months in the barrel, resulting in silky black fruit and oaky complexity.
Chateau Vartely Merlot A velvety red with deep fruit flavours. It’s from Moldova, where historic vineyards are now under serious threat. Enjoy this wine and help preserve the vineyards, too.
Yourdeal ataglance Exclusive sixbottle summer reds showcase, £41.94 £6.99 a bottle Save over 30% Free delivery (usually £7.99) Mixed or all-white cases available for the same price
To order your case online, go to bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/augustreds Or, call 03300 242 855 and quote code 4740001 BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaites. Offer valid for new customers only and limited to one six bottle case per household. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion. Offer ends 30/09/2021. You or anybody you buy wine or other alcoholic products for must be 18 years or over. All goods are subject to availability and all orders are subject to acceptance by Laithwaites. In the unlikely event of a wine becoming unavailable, a substitute of similar style and equal or greater value will be supplied. Standard delivery takes three working days (delivery to offshore islands, NI, Scottish Highlands and some other areas of Scotland may take a few days longer). Please see laithwaites.co.uk/terms for full terms and conditions, and laithwaites.co.uk/privacy for its Privacy and Cookie Policies. Laithwaites processes information about you in accordance with its privacy policy. Laithwaites Wine part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire, RG7 4SW.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 115
Fresh pasta direct offer to your door reader
Pasta Evangelists delivers restaurant-quality fresh pasta and sauces Since its inception in 2016, Pasta Evangelists has been on a mission to evangelise the Italian speciality of pasta fresca (fresh pasta) in the UK. Based in a kitchen in north London, Pasta Evangelists specialises in making and delivering fresh pasta, using only the highest quality natural ingredients and following traditional methods used by home cooks across the Italian peninsula for centuries. Pasta Evangelists’ pasta consists only of fine Italian ‘00’ flour and free-range eggs, while shapes are cut, rolled and twisted by hand. For the fillings and sauces, Pasta Evangelists work with Italian producers who are PDO-accredited (Protected Designation of Origin) to include ingredients such as Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano, and with high-end UK-based heritage brands such as Clarence Court eggs and La Fromagerie. As a special offer for readers of BBC Good Food, you can save 30% on your first order. Simply choose your dishes, place your order and select your preferred delivery day. When your pasta arrives, follow the simple cooking instructions, then sit back and enjoy your freshly prepared meal.
SAVE
30%
on your first order
SUBSCRIBER EXCLUSIVE All BBC Good Food subscribers will save 30% and receive a free tiramisu with their first order. See page 42 for your special code.
TO ORDER VISIT pastaevangelists.com and enter code 30GF at the checkout
Terms and conditions This offer is for new customers only and cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion or discount. One use per person and £10 minimum onsite spend applies. You can skip, pause or cancel your Pasta Plan at any time. Offer cannot be redeemed on gift products or used in store. Delivery to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. This discount cannot be cancelled, refunded, exchanged or used in conjunction with any other offer. Offer closes 30 September 2021.
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B O O ST YO U R
cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team THIS MONTH
Watch our skills videos at bbcgoodfood.com/video We love to see what you’re making, too: share your recipes on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood
Five steps to BBQ success, p119
Learn to make pasta alla norma, p120
Tom Kerridge’s top tips on sausages, p123
L E V E L T X NE S G G E H C S C O T ry our ultimate version of everyone’s T age 124 p n o k c a n s ic n ic p e favourit
Enjoy a frozen cocktail, p126
& Our bread expert answers your questions, p123
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 117
PODCAST EXTRA
Craig and Shaun McAnuff
Ackee & saltfish SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
600g boneless salt cod 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 spring onions, thinly sliced 1 scotch bonnet pepper, deseeded and finely chopped
1 tsp dried thyme 1 tsp ground pimento (allspice) ½ red pepper, deseeded and finely chopped ½ green pepper, deseeded and finely chopped 1 large tomato, chopped 2 x 540g cans ackee, drained
1 Put the salt cold in a pan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then boil for 5 mins, drain and add fresh cold water to cover. 2 Repeat this process until you’re happy with the saltiness when tasted; we recommend boiling the fish three times in total for a perfect balance of salt in the fish. Drain and leave to cool. Use a fork to shred the salt cod into pieces and set aside. 3 Pour the vegetable oil into a large frying pan and put on a high heat. Once the oil is sizzling hot, turn the
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& Tune in to the Rookie & Nice Podcast where you can hear Craig and Shaun talking to Miriam and Nadiya about Jamaican food – available to download from Acast, Spotify, iTunes and podcast streaming services.
heat down to low-medium. Add the onion, garlic, spring onions and scotch bonnet, then cook until soft, around 5-7 mins. 4 Add the salt cod, some black pepper, the thyme and pimento, then mix it together and cook for around 3 mins. 5 Next, stir in the red and green peppers, along with the tomato and cook for a further 2-3 mins. 6 Fold in the ackee (as it’s soft, it’s important to fold it in very gently – nobody likes mushy ackee) and season with a little more black pepper. Simmer for 3-5 mins to warm through, then serve. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 435 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 1g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • fibre 1g • protein 53g • salt 2.1g
Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, IMAGESOURCE/GETTY
Ackee & saltfish is Jamaica’s national dish. It’s one of those dishes you can eat any time of day. Ackee is a creamy fruit with a soft texture so it absorbs the other flavours in the dish really well. It’s delicious. You can’t get fresh ackee over here but canned ackee is still good. Jamaican dumplings go well with this.
Cartouche photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director SARAH SNELLING | Food stylist LIBETY FENNELL | Stylist LUIS PERAL
In this episode, YouTube stars and authors of Original Flava Craig and Shaun McAnuff share their recipe for a Jamaican classic
skills beginners
STEPS TO SUCCESS
MASTER THE BBQ Live fire expert Big Has shares his tips on getting the best out of your barbecue this summer
W H AT I S A . . . CARTOUCHE? A cartouche is a clever pro kitchen hack, made by folding baking parchment and cutting it into a circle. It’s often used to cover poaching fruit so it stays submerged, or béchamel as it allows steam to evaporate without a skin forming. The technique can also be used to line the base of a cake tin.
RTER A T S N E KITCH
Thesame technique canbeused tolinethe baseofa cake tin
Skin is flavour Buy free-range (organic if possible) skin-on chicken breasts or thighs and barbecue them slowly and gently. Cooking skin-on chicken slowly allows the fat to be rendered and create smoke for more flavour. The most expensive steaks aren’t always the tastiest so ask your butcher about cheaper cuts Bavette or hanger steaks are easy on the pocket and absolutely delicious. Barbecue these steaks over a very high heat, turning constantly for about five minutes, rest, then carve. They’re easy to cook and a real crowd-pleaser. Sugars and charcoal don’t mix well If you want a little sweetness on your ribs or chicken, glaze in the last five minutes of cooking. Avoid using honey and sugar in barbecue marinades as the flavour will just burn away.
Always season I highly recommend getting a box of sea salt flakes and use it generously. Unlike pan cooking, gravity isn’t on your side when cooking on a barbecue. Once you’ve laid your fish, meat or veg on the barbecue, you’ll lose about 20% of seasoning to gravity. Pepper should always be used last-minute. The heat will burn it if it goes on too early and you’ll be left with an unforgiving bitterness. Rest it It doesn’t matter what you’ve cooked, it needs to rest. The heat of a barbecue is so intense that proteins in the meat and any vegetables will tense up. Allow the food to rest for a good five to 10 minutes.
& Hasan Semay is a Jamie Oliver Fifteen graduate with a passion for cooking over fire. He will be appearing at Meatopia Festival 3-5 September 2021. Visit meatopia.co.uk
KIT
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AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 119
WEEKEND PROJECT
Pasta alla norma I
t’s now prime aubergine season, so it’s the best time to make this Italian classic. In our version, the veg is roasted rather than fried to create meltingly tender chunks of aubergine in a rich tomato sauce.
Pasta alla norma SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr EASY V
1 Toss the aubergines with 1 heaped tsp salt, then tip into a colander set over a bowl to drain for 30 mins. 2 Heat half the oil in a flameproof casserole or saucepan over a low heat and cook the onion with a pinch of salt for 10 mins. Add the garlic and chilli, and cook for 1 min. Tip in the tomatoes, 1 tsp sugar and bring to a simmer. Cook for 20 mins, stirring occasionally. Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. 3 Pat the aubergine dry with kitchen paper, toss with the rest of the oil, spread out on a baking sheet and roast for 25-30 mins until tender and golden at the edges. Meanwhile, cook the pasta following pack instructions, then drain, reserving 100ml of the water. 4 Stir the aubergine into the sauce along with the basil and capers. Season and toss with the pasta and a splash of the reserved water. Divide between bowls and top with the cheese, if using, and extra basil. PER SERVING 517 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 79g • sugars 15g • fibre 10g • protein 15g • salt 1.7g
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TWIST IT Try stirring a little nduja into the sauce. The fiery Italian salami paste adds an extra layer of flavour and an extra kick of chilli heat. If you’ve got a glut of courgettes, you can use these in place of some, or all, of the aubergines. To turn this into a pasta bake, swap the spaghetti for a short tube pasta, such as penne or rigatoni, then tip into a dish and cover with mozzarella. Bake until gooey and golden.
Photographs SAM ROBINSON, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, IMAGESOURCE/GETTY
2 aubergines, cut into 3cm chunks 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed pinch of chilli flakes 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 350g spaghetti small bunch of basil, shredded, plus a few leaves to serve 1 heaped tbsp capers, drained ricotta salata, parmesan or vegetarian alternative, finely grated, to serve (optional)
skills beginners
WHY I LOVE
Vitamix Bettina Campolucci Bordi, cookbook author and founder of Bettina’s Kitchen, chooses her top appliance
YES, IT WORKS!
U N U S U A L F L AV O U R C O M B I N AT I O N S
My Vitamix is something I’ve become pretty attached to – we use it as a family on a daily basis. It’s great for making smoothies, quick soups, pesto, curry pastes, spice mixes or almost-instant ice cream. It’s just become one of those essential pieces of equipment that does it all. Can I live without it? Probably. But having it makes my life a lot easier!
Sweet and fresh tropical fruits often pair well with hot chillies. Mango works particularly well, as it has a fresh, floral flavour and is cooling, with a soft texture. Try it sprinkled with lime zest, a little salt and fresh chilli or a sprinkle of habanero chilli flakes. It’s also delicious in a cold noodle salad with mint, Thai basil and a hot & sour dressing.
mango
+ chilli
MYTH BUSTER
Marinades E? T R U E O R FA L S TES, A N I R A M T A E THE LONGER M F L AV O U R E H T R E P E E D THE BARNEY SAYS: This partly depends on the thickness of what you’re marinating. There’s nothing wrong with applying a marinade the day before – the flavours of the marinade will become more harmonious – but if you’re cooking a thick piece of meat, like a butterflied leg of lamb or whole joint of beef, it doesn’t matter how long you leave it – the marinade will never go any deeper than 5mm
from the surface. So, if you come across a recipe that states the need to marinate a thick cut of meat for 24 hours, know that anything more than overnight isn’t going to make much difference. Barney Desmazery, skills & shows editor
For our marinade recipes, turn to page 70
KITCHEN HACK
Mash topping When topping a fish or cottage pie with creamy mash, start by spooning it around the outside edges first, slowly working towards the middle until the top is completely covered. This stops the filling from oozing at the edges and prevents leakages.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 121
COOKBOOK CHALLENGE
Chasing smoke by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich
Editor Keith Kendrick finds that, even without a garden, you can still enjoy barbecue flavours
I
& Recipe adapted from Chasing Smoke by Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich (£26, Pavillion). Photographs by Patricia Niven.
love barbecuing. When I was a stay-at-home dad to my three kids, I ran their primary school fire-ups and it was great fun, but I haven’t barbecued for years because we have limited outside space. So I initially dismissed Chasing Smoke until I flicked through and saw that every recipe comes with advice about how to achieve brilliant results in your oven. That’s great news, because everything in Sarit and Itamar’s new cookbook is right up my street. The couple met as chefs in Tel Aviv 18 years ago and moved to London. Their three much-ravedabout restaurants – Honey & Co, Honey & Spice and Honey & Smoke – serve traditional Middle Eastern food. They are places I’ve always wanted to go – obviously difficult in recent times – but their new cookbook is an inspirational substitute. In essence, it’s a gastronomic tour of the Levant; everything from aubergines with tomato and labneh to shish kebabs and koftas, all connected by the couple’s love of fire and smoke. They write, ‘The trail of smoke is one we have been following all our lives. From Haifa and Jerusalem where we grew up, throughout our travels around the Mediterranean, it has led us to rooftops in Marrakesh, to beach shacks in Kefalonia, and to London’s Lebanese restaurants. Every morning when we light up the grill, we go on another adventure.’ For me, that’s a dream as ethereal as smoke. But the recipes are real, and delicious. Even if a domestic oven isn’t the perfect way to cook them.
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TRY IT YO U RS ELF Spatchcocked chicken with Mediterranean spices While Sarit and Itamar suggest brining the chicken first, I skipped that stage and the meat was still wonderfully juicy. SERVES 3-4 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins-1 hr EASY V
3 tbsp ras el hanout 1 tbsp sumac 3 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra for frying (if cooking without a barbecue) 1 whole chicken, about 1.5 kg, spatchcocked To cook on the barbecue
1 Mix the spices with the olive oil and 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper to form a thick paste. 2 Place the flattened bird skin-side down on the grill over a mediumlow heat and brush some of the spice paste onto the exposed cavity. Leave to cook for 10 mins, then flip it and brush the skin-side with spice
paste. Grill for 10 mins before flipping it again and applying more paste. Repeat four more times, grilling for about 1 hr in total, turning and basting every 10 mins. Keep an eye on the coals – you want them to provide mellow heat, so you may need to top them up as you go. Test the chicken by inserting a knife into the thickest part of the thigh. If the juices run clear, remove from the grill and leave to rest for 10 mins before carving. To cook without a barbecue
Lightly brown the chicken skin-side down in a lightly oiled griddle pan over a medium heat for 10 mins, then flip it over. Baste the skin-side generously with the spice paste (see step 1) and transfer to a roasting tin. Roast at 220C/200C fan/gas 7 for 35 mins, or until the juices from the thickest part of the thigh run clear. Leave to rest for 10 mins, then serve. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 487 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 8g • carbs 3g • sugars 1g • fibre 4g • protein 48g • salt 0.8g
skills extras
TOM KERRIDGE PODCAST EXTRA
The beauty of bangers In our Good Food podcast, Tom shares his top tips for buying and cooking sausages Whoever invented sausages is a genius. They’re just brilliant. This is quite controversial, but I would even go for a sausage sandwich over a bacon sandwich. There are so many types of sausage. They’re all delicious. Toulouse sausages are packed with big powerful flavours like garlic and pepper. Italian sausages are quite high in fat and full of flavour. Chorizo’s fantastic – when you fry it, the oil comes out, flavouring everything else you add to the pan. And then there’s Merguez sausages – lamb sausages with spicy North African flavours. But my favourite is still a great British sausage with dried herbs running through the pork, nicely seasoned with salt and pepper.
You don’t need to prick sausages anymore before you cook them. During the war, the sausage lining was originally made from intestine, and when it was fried, the water content would pop and they would burst, and that’s why they were called bangers. Now, the lining is made from a synthetic material rather than intestine, so they won’t burst. You’re always going to get the better-quality sausage from the butchers. If your butcher is making it, they’ll know what’s gone in it. If you’re buying sausages in a packet, you don’t know where the meat is from. That’s not saying it’s bad, but it’s nice to have that connectivity. Frying is the best way to cook sausages. You can grill them or stick them in the oven, but frying gives you a lovely crispy skin.
I’ve got a lovely way to cook a coiled Cumberland sausage – fry it on both sides, then pour in chicken stock and reduce it down until the stock has almost evaporated. Take the sausage out, add a little knob of butter and a squeeze of brown sauce, and mix it with the stock and juices in the pan and you’ve got a sausage gravy. Pour over the sausage and carve. Lovely!
& • To listen to Tom’s podcast, go to bbcgoodfood. com/podcasttom-kerridge. • For Tom’s recipes, visit bbcgoodfood. com/tomkerridge-recipes
BAKE IT BETTER
THE BREAD DOCTOR
Photographs CLARKANDCOMPANY/E+/GETTY IMAGES
Our resident bread expert, Barney Desmazery, answers your most-asked questions Can I swap brown or wholemeal flour for white flour in a recipe? While brown and wholemeal flour have lots more flavour than white flour, they produce a heavier product and they absorb more water. A straight swap of brown for white will mean you’ll need to up the water content in the recipe and you’ll end up with a denser loaf, so I find a happy medium is 50/50 white and brown or wholemeal. Also, just like
white, brown flour is available in plain and strong – you’ll need strong brown flour for the best bread results.
How do I increase my favourite bread recipe? One of the happy laws of bread-baking is that, unlike most other recipes, bread dough is really easy to divide if you want to make less or more, and whether you’re baking one or six loaves you simply multiply all the ingredients and the
methods and timings stay the same as long as each loaf is the same size. If you’re halving a single loaf recipe to make a smaller loaf or turning a loaf recipe into smaller rolls, they will be baked at the same temperature, just for less time.
Why is there sugar in some bread recipes? Some traditional bread recipes include sugar to ‘feed’ the yeast, speeding up the process and helping
the crust to brown. Sugar really isn’t needed in a basic savoury bread dough and the longer the dough takes to prove, the more flavour it develops – there is nothing to be gained, in terms of flavour or texture, by speeding it up. As for the crust, a spritz of water in the oven or simply turning your oven up a bit higher should give you all the colour you need.
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 123
NEXT LEVEL
Scotch eggs recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MIKE ENGLISH MAKES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins A CHALLENGE
BACON & EGGS For smokiness (and because bacon and eggs go well together) we’ve added chopped streaky bacon to the sausage mix.
A GOOD EGG You shou ld seek o ut the be quality e st ggs, prefe rably org to ensure anic, a perfectl y golden yolk.
WHY Scotch eggs have previously had a bad reputation, being thought of as nothing more than a service station snack. When they’re mass-produced, overcooked and fridge-cold, you can see why. But, when coated with crisp breadcrumbs and eaten at room temperature with a slightly runny yolk, they transform into one of the finest portable foods. For our version, we’ve added some crisps to the coating (trust us on this!), plus some smokiness (and a nod to the full English) with bacon. Finally, to ensure the coating is flavourful and extra-crisp, we’ve seasoned it properly and used panko breadcrumbs in place of standard ones.
Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY | Food and prop stylist AMY KINNEAR
W H AT T O B U Y 6 eggs, at room temperature 5 Cumberland sausages (about 350g) 2 rashers smoked streaky bacon, finely chopped or minced 1 litre sunflower oil, for frying For the coating 2 eggs, beaten 100g plain flour 2 tsp English mustard powder 50g packet of salt and vinegar crisps, crushed 100g panko breadcrumbs
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HOW TO BOIL AN EGG There are many tips for getting this right, but the most accurate is to bring a pan of water to the boil, carefully drop in the egg, then time it to the second. (See tip, right.)
SO FT YO LK S so We’ve cooked the eggs in the they’re slightly runny actly middle, which takes ex g, try 7 mins. For a runnier eg seconds; boiling for 6 mins 30 still and for a cooked (but mins. fudgy) yolk, boil for 8
skills next level
HOW TO MAKE IT DOUBLE-DIP To ensure an extra-crisp finish, we have doubledipped the eggs in the crumb mix.
G C R IS P C O AT IN e th We’ve added to cluding in snack factor by the crushed crisps in gives the crumb mix. This bstance, coating more su vinegar and the salt-andextra flavour adds an ing. punch of season
CRUMBS Traditionally, scotch eggs are coated in fine, fresh breadcrumbs, but we’ve swapped them for dried, coarse panko crumbs. They add more crunch.
A TO U C H O F M U STA R D Give the scotch eg gs some background heat by seasoning the flour with English m ustard powder. If you prefer less he at, simply omit (or add more, if yo u like it hot!).
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1 Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, carefully drop in the eggs and set a timer for 7 mins. After 7 mins, immediately scoop out the eggs using a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of iced water, cracking the shells a little with the spoon as you do (this makes them easier to peel later). Leave to cool completely, then peel and set aside. 2 Squeeze the sausagemeat from the skins into a small bowl, add the bacon and mix to combine. For the coating, tip the beaten egg into a shallow container. Combine the flour and mustard powder in a second, and stir together the crushed crisps and panko breadcrumbs in a third. 3 Divide the sausage mixture into six rough portions. Lay a sheet of baking parchment on the work surface, then drop a portion of the meat into the middle of the parchment. Top with a second sheet of baking parchment and flatten the meat into a disc using your palm. Remove the top sheet of parchment. Roll one of the eggs in the flour mix, then place in the middle of the sausagemeat disc. Use the parchment to help you wrap the meat around the egg so it’s completely encased, trimming any excess from the top and bottom. Repeat with the rest of the eggs and meat. Dip the sausage-coated eggs back in the flour mix, then the egg, then the crumbs, back into the egg, then finally, in the crumbs again. Can be prepared up to a few hours ahead and chilled until ready to fry. 4 Heat a 5cm depth of oil in a wok, wide saucepan or deep-fat fryer until it reaches 160C or until a cube of bread dropped in turns golden in 10 seconds. Lower in as many eggs as you can, being careful not to overcrowd the pan, and fry for 6-8 mins, gently turning until golden and crisp on all sides. Drain on kitchen paper, leave to cool a little, then serve. PER SERVING 520 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 10g • carbs 34g • sugars 2g • fibre 3g • protein 23g • salt 1.6g
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AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 125
D RIN KS CAB IN E T
Cool down This month, drinks expert Miriam Nice chills out with a slushy-style mango daiquiri and three cooling summer sippers. Plus, bar manager Simon Dacey breaks down everything you need to know about using ice in cocktails
CRUSHED ICE OR CUBES? London bar manager Simon Dacey explains why using the right type of ice in a cocktail can make all the difference to the way you experience it.
2
WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU USE ICE CUBES INSTEAD OF CRUSHED ICE?
Usually, it means you won’t make a very good drink. It will appear short, and the temptation is often to add more soda to top up the glass. This
3
WHAT’S THE EASIEST WAY TO CRUSH ICE AT HOME?
Brute force: wrap ice cubes in a couple of clean tea towels and smash using a mallet or rolling pin. You can buy a Lewis bag to do this (a sturdy canvas sack made for containing and crushing ice), but the principle is the same.
4
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE IN RESULT BETWEEN POURING A FINISHED DRINK OVER CRUSHED ICE AND BLENDING IT WITH ICE?
When you blend with ice, it’s shredded into tiny pieces – you end up with something the consistency of a slushy. At Trailer Happiness, we make piña coladas and frozen daiquiris this way. But, the ratios I use when blending those drinks are different to those I’d use if I wanted a crushed-ice highball.
& Simon Dacey is a London-based cocktail maker and general manager at world-renowned Trailer Happiness, a Tiki-inspired bar on Portobello Road. trailerh.com @trailerh
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WE STILL LOVE GRENADINE This is a syrup or cordial that’s frequently used in cocktail- and mocktail-making. It has a complex, sweet and sharp flavour and adds eye-catching, bright red colour to drinks. Traditionally made with pomegranate (although some shop-bought varieties and recipes use other sweet red fruits and berries), it’s great with lemonade in the popular French soft drink diabolo grenadine, or add it to cocktails right at the end – it will slowly sink down the glass, creating a rosy hue. Find our tequila sunrise and zombie cocktail recipes and learn to make homemade grenadine on bbcgoodfood.com.
Additional photographs EDDIE BERMAN/E+/GETTY
Ice is generally used in cocktails for two key reasons: chilling and dilution. A drink that should be cold but is served lukewarm isn’t nice, and neither is a drink that is too strong, syrupy or watery. Crushed ice quickly brings drinks to the ideal temperature and dilution, because the smaller chips means there’s more surface area, so the drink cools fast. But, when the drink is cold, the remaining ice is packed together tightly and melts more slowly, meaning your drink won’t be overdiluted. This eliminates the need to shake the drink; you can build it in a tall glass, add the crushed ice and mix everything up. It’s also important historically: the earliest mixed drinks, like slings and juleps, called for ‘shaved’ ice, because it was the only option available. Shaving ice off a large block was more efficient than cutting little cubes.
will dilute the drink but not chill it, so it’ll throw the balance. But, fear not: ice cubes can be used in some crushed-ice classics. You just need to shake the drink first to cool and dilute it before pouring it and adding fresh ice cubes. Your drink will be balanced and cold enough to stop the cubes from melting too fast, and it won’t look short.
Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist HANNAH WILKINSON
WHY IS CRUSHED ICE USED IN COCKTAILS?
Drink photograph TOM REGESTER | Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY
1
skills drinks
T RY A N E W C O C K TA I L Frozen mango daiquiri Make this grown-up slushy for a treat on a hot day – it’s so smooth and scoopable, you could serve it with a spoon. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V
50ml white rum 25ml mango liqueur or mango gin 10ml lemon juice 1/2 ripe mango, peeled, stoned and cut into chunks (130-150g prepared weight), plus a wedge to garnish (optional) ice Thai basil sprig, to garnish (optional)
1 Put the rum, liqueur or gin, lemon juice, mango flesh and a generous handful of ice in a high-powered blender that’s suitable for crushing ice. 2 Blend until smooth, then pour into a large cocktail or margarita glass and garnish with a mango slice and Thai basil, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 279 kcals • fat 0.5g • saturates none • carbs 24g • sugars 23g • fibre 2g • protein 1g • salt 0.01g
More ideas for August Peach sour SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V
Shake 50ml gin, 25ml lemon juice and 3/4 tbsp sugar syrup together in a cocktail shaker with a handful of ice cubes. Strain into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Drizzle 3/4 tbsp crème de peche over the top. Garnish with a slice of lemon slice and peach, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 224 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 14g • sugars 14g • fibre none • protein 0.1g • salt 0.01g
Iced mocha SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V
twist ORIGINAL DAIQUIRI Frozen daiquiris are a great way to use any seasonal fruit, but if you’ve not tried it, have a go at the original, especially if you like margaritas. Simply pour 50ml white rum, 25ml lime juice and 2 tsp sugar syrup into an ice-filled shaker, then shake until cold and strain into a cocktail glass.
& Miriam Nice is an author and illustrator. She has written over 350 recipes for BBC Good Food. @miriamjsnice
Heat 50ml milk in a small pan until warm, remove from the heat, add 25g chocolate buttons, mix until melted, then leave to cool. Half-fill a large, tall glass with ice, then pour in the cooled chocolate milk and 100ml cold milk. Stir to combine. Top up with more ice, then slowly pour in 35ml espresso. Garnish with a little whipped cream and a dusting of cocoa powder or ground cinnamon – or both, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 233 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 8g • carbs 21g • sugars 19g • fibre 1g • protein 7g • salt 0.2g
Mint julep SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V
Shake 65ml bourbon, 10 mint leaves and 3/4 tbsp sugar syrup together in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Strain into a highball glass or julep tin filled with crushed ice. Stir gently with a long-handled spoon and top with more crushed ice, then garnish with a large mint sprig and serve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 187 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 8g • fibre none • protein none • salt none
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 127
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i op n oN
Our columnists discuss what’s new in the world of food and drink and share their tips, plus a favourite recipe from a top chef
BEEF ESTOFADO p136
Also in the opinion section Crowd-pleasing
beers
MarverineColesharesher bestbrewsforsummer celebrations , p131
Are we over-using
My favourite
garlic?
dish
JoannaBlythmanwantsus to show it more respect, p133
RobertOritzsharesfoodmemories and a Peruvian recipe (above), p134 AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 129
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130 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
opinion
ma
ne
rveri
Beers to make c ole memories with
Make your summer an enduring one with our beer sommelier’s pick of five crowd-pleasing brews
Portrait AUSTEN DUFFY
I
am celebrating a significant birthday this month, and due to the loss of people, places and much of what we took for granted last year, I have an even stronger desire to create longlasting memories this summer. The guaranteed rollercoaster of emotions on my birthday will be balanced with many celebrations: meeting friends and family in pubs, spontaneous get-togethers in our garden or drinks at one of the many brilliant brewery tap rooms in Birmingham (Attic, Glasshouse and Burning Soul, to name a few). There’s a new crowd-pleasing beer on the block called Haze. It’s a 6.5% ABV New England IPA (NEIPA) that’s produced by one of Britain’s few black-owned breweries, Eko. True to the beer style, Haze tastes like freshly squeezed oranges in a glass with a satisfying alcoholic kick. Haze pours cloudy and is darker than most NEIPAs I’ve tried. The serenading sweetness comes from coconut palm sugar which, say Eko’s London-based owners Anthony and Helena Adedipe, is their homage to the ingredients used in the famous African beverage palm wine. It’s full and smooth in the mouth. For me, beer and food are a marriage made in heaven and I reckon Haze would do down well alongside a plate of sticky ribs or chargrilled veg skewers (£52 for 12 440ml cans, ekobrewery.com). We’ve all witnessed how the pandemic has devastated independent businesses. And, I’ll bet that, like me, you’re keen to support small businesses as our economy recovers. A four-pack
Haze £52 (12 x 440ml cans) ekobrewery.com
Supportingyour localcreates lastingmemories foryou,andhelps anindustrythat’s hadanincredibly tough year
of beer from Cloudwater, available in Tesco – is one way of doing that. Collaboration has long been in Cloudwater’s DNA and, over the last few months, I’ve been chatting to founder Paul Jones about the company’s ethos. It’s co-designed four epic IPAs with some of the most exciting up-and-coming black-, Asian- and LGBTQ+owned British microbreweries, with the profits split among them. Three of the beers are 6% ABV, which is spot-on for the style. Cloudwater IPA collaboration pack Embracing Otherness is from Eko Brewery (yes, the same name featuring Queer behind Haze NEIPA); Steve from Brewing, Eko Good Karma Beer Co offers a 0.5% Brewery, Good Karma Beer Co and ABV IPA called Free Your Mind, which challenges any notion of Rock Leopard low-alcohol beers not being tasty; Brewing Co, £10 (four 440ml cans), Stacey at Rock Leopard Brewing Co’s shares his One Way or Tesco
Another beer; and Lily and Charlotte at Queer Brewing have come up with Our Love Fills the Air IPA. The cans are an artistic assault on the senses: in yellow, pink, green and purple, the set is almost collectable for the cans alone, not ignoring the beer inside them. Fruity aromas jump out upon pouring. The notes translate well, but I’ll let you uncover the grapefruit, gooseberry and peach flavours in each. Bittersweet balance makes them tantalisingly drinkable. The beautifully boxed bundle makes an ideal gift (£10 for four 440ml cans, Tesco). Whatever you plan to do this summer, I urge you to support your local microbrewery or independent pub any way you can. It creates lasting memories for you, and helps an industry that’s had an incredibly tough year.
To read more from Marverine, go to bbcgoodfood.com/author/ marverinecole
Marverine Cole is an accredited beer sommelier, broadcaster and journalist who’s won several awards. She’s a member of the British Guild of Beer Writers, and has collaborated with breweries on her own beers. She’s conducted tastings on ITV’s This Morning, and extolled the virtues of Britain’s national drink on various BBC shows. She can usually be found in a pub somewhere in the West Midlands. You can listen to Marverine’s podcast, Beer Beauty, wherever you get your podcasts. marverinecole.co.uk @BeerBeauty @TVMarv
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 131
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opinion
Joanna Blythman
go easy on the garlic When people say they don’t like garlic, it may just be because they don’t appreciate its subtleties @joannablythman
I
like garlic, I really do, but I think this country needs some education in how to use it. We have a tendency to overdo this aromatic bulb. Whether it’s garlic bread, hummus, aïoli, or guacamole, too often we’re served overpowering, mouthmugging renditions. I have never encountered such belligerently garlicky dishes in any of the countries we associate with garlic production. The French classic, poulet aux 40 gousses d’ail – chicken roasted in a cocotte (a cast-iron or ceramic cooking pot) in the oven with no fewer than 40 unpeeled cloves – is mellow and rounded by the time it is cooked. Gazpacho served in Spain tastes more of tomatoes and sherry vinegar than garlic. In Palestine, the hummus I tasted daily was all about the chickpea and tahini flavours, with garlic well on the back-foot. A garlic-ginger paste is a building block of many recipes from the Indian subcontinent, yet the garlic quietly cohabits with spices to create a balanced effect. Although we do now grow garlic in the UK, in sunny spots like the Isle of Wight, British cultivation is a relatively new thing. Perhaps our understanding of its culinary properties doesn’t match our modern enthusiasm for it. Few people seem to realise that garlic is a seasonal crop, one that gathers in strength as it ages. When ransoms – the green wild garlic leaves – emerge in early spring, they make a restorative, vibrant pesto. But because they are new and fresh, the resulting green sauce won’t taint your palate. The same applies to the summer harvest of ‘wet’, that is, un-stored, un-dried garlic bulbs. You can
roast whole heads of this with olive oil, salt and herbs, then squeeze out the resulting sticky goo and anoint your toast with it. What bliss! It won’t linger on your breath. You won’t be tasting it for hours after either. By early autumn, Europeangrown garlic has been dried off so that it lasts through winter. But the longer it’s stored, the more pungent it becomes. So that means that the number of cloves that a recipe calls for will very likely need to be revised. Two cloves from the head of nice new Breton garlic used in October will taste much sweeter, and more subtle, than if you use it in March. Garlic is, in one way, akin to lemons, which vary so much that the phrase ‘juice of one lemon’ is pretty unhelpful. With garlic,
Garlic is seasonal, and gathers in strength as it ages
we should get into the habit of breaking open a clove to smell it. This allows us to gauge its strength level and check that no stale, sulphurous off-flavours have developed in storage. I’m not surprised that many otherwise competent cooks and chefs maltreat garlic. The careless, casual way we retail it encourages us to think of garlic like onions, or root ginger: an aromatic that can kick around in our vegetable box ad infinitum, and still taste fine by the time we get around to using it. Bear in mind that while British and European-grown garlic has a certain cachet that commands higher prices, most of the garlic in our shops comes from China, and spends many months in commercial storage before it even makes it onto our shelves and into our kitchens. Actually, garlic is best thought of as a vegetable. It’s part of the allium family, like leeks and onions. It might not obviously look as if it has “gone off”, but a lot of the time, it has. When I meet people who say they don’t like garlic I often wonder if they’ve just had blunderbuss experiences that put them off for life. It’s time to revisit garlic, and show it more respect.
Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning journalist who has written about food for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4.
Do you agree with Joanna? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion
AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 133
M Y FAVO U R ITE D I S H
ROBERT ORTIZ’S
PERUVIAN BEEF ESTOFADO
The chef who helped popularise Peruvian food in the UK shares the recipe for his grandmother’s slow-cooked stew and reflects on his childhood in the Amazon words TONY NAYLOR
A
s a teenager, Robert Ortiz was sold on cooking professionally as a glamorous way to see the world. In the 1980s, his native Peru was in bad shape economically, and, after winning a school cooking competition, a teacher who’d worked on cruise ships advised him that if he wanted to travel, eat the best food and meet great people, he should become a chef. That journey would take him to Britain. But, in the last decade, it’s also drawn him closer to home. When Lima restaurant launched in London, heading a new wave of Peruvian restaurants in the capital, Robert 134 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
I’dclimb intoorange andmango trees and eatmaybe 20oranges
was head chef. He played a key role in popularising Peruvian food in the UK and now, at 49, he continues to do so at Birmingham’s Chakana. ‘Maybe some people say we’re a country of rice, beans and chicken. But we have a lot more to offer,’ says Robert, whose food bagged Lima a Michelin star. The distinct eco-systems and food cultures of Peru’s coast, the Andes and Amazon regions, and the influence of Spanish colonisation and immigration from east Asia (hence the Peruvian-Japanese nikkei cuisine) have all combined to create Peru’s complex culinary topography. ‘If you really look,’ says Robert, ‘you find something new every day. ‘I was born in Peru’s Amazon region near the Marañón River and, until I was 10, lived with my grandmother in Camporredondo. Later, I moved to be with my parents in the nearest town, Lonya Grande, which, as there were no roads, took 12 hours to reach by mule. People from Camporredondo would transport produce to sell there and buy salt, oil or rice to take home. That’s how the region worked. ‘For a chef, growing up in the Amazon with its different foods was very interesting. I’d climb into
opinion
orange and mango trees with my cousins and eat maybe 20 oranges – our chests all different colours from the juice – drink still-warm milk from our cows and help my grandmother pick wild arabica coffee. The beans were dried and ground, and after they’d been toasted, my grandmother added spices, barley or nuts. The love they put into the product is amazing. ‘My family worked in the fields picking coffee, cane sugar, papaya and avocados, and in the early morning, my grandmother and I would take massive bowls of soup to them, similar to my recipe for beef estofado (p136). These estofado stews combined root veg, plantain, rice, beans, lots of coriander and different meats, from beef and wild boar, to chicken and local venison. The stew gave the workers the energy they needed for the five hours until lunch was delivered. ‘At home, my grandmother would sometimes prepare more elaborate estofados with fermented corn beer and a range of fragrant herbs. They cooked extremely slowly in clay pots (she’d start cooking them the night before) and were so comforting, especially during the rainy season when we children felt down about spending so much time at home. ‘In Lonya Grande, my parents ran a bakery that my dad’s father had started. They still have it, although my dad, who’s 76, bakes very little now. My mum also ran a restaurant and was a great cook. I loved her amazing combination of plantain and soft cheese for breakfast. In the restaurant, she’d do a lot of empanadas, fish fried or escabeche, adobo stews and a creamy, chilli chicken dish called ají gallina.
From top left: Robert is now executive chef and co-owner at Chakana in Birmingham, where he serves plates such as beef sirloin pachamanca and tuna nikkei ceviche; Robert’s mother Alicia in 2016; a family photo with Robert’s children, Rory and Annabel in Cajamarca in 2012; the dishes at Chakana are inspired by the culture and cuisine of Peru
‘I remember my dad’s ceviche, too. Living far inland, this was made with semi-dried salted mackerel and served with Amazonian tree tomato, tamarillo, and distinctive local chillies and coriander. People would also use a tropical fruit called tumbo (known as the banana passion fruit) as well as limes. The preserved mackerel would be wrapped up and kept in the house – sometimes I’d snatch a piece of it to eat when my parents weren’t looking. ‘There were only 2,000 people in Lonya, but there were 18 bakeries. I guess people consumed a lot of bread. At weekends, customers would come from all the small towns around Lonya to buy food. My parents’ bakery was considered one of the best. Bread was quite basic then, but my father was progressive. He used local cereals to make bread, bake cakes and sweet buns and even knew how to make a kind of brioche that people travelled a long way to buy. I had to help out around schoolwork. There was no television then, but you were always a busy child.’ @chakana.restaurant chakana-restaurant.co.uk AUGUST 2021 bbcgoodfood.com 135
opinion
Beef estofado SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 2 hrs 50 mins MORE EFFORT ❄
136 bbcgoodfood.com AUGUST 2021
plunge into the cold water using a slotted spoon. Leave to cool, then peel away the skins. 5 Stir the ají amarillo paste into the stew and top with the tomatoes, beans and chopped herbs. GOOD TO KNOW fibre • vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 600 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 5g • carbs 34g • sugars 9g • fibre 9g • protein 42g • salt 2.3g
FIVE KEY PERUVIAN INGREDIENTS Limes In Peru, the best
limes for ceviche are from the Piura region, particularly Catacaos. They’re green-yellowish, thin-skinned and sharply acidic with a sweet kick. In October, when we run out, limes become extremely expensive. One kilo can cost US$10 – it’s terrible. Chillies Our chillies all
play specific roles: dried and smoky ají panca, sun-dried ají mirasol,
fresh yellow ají amarillo and spicy, citrussy ají limo. Rocoto peppers are so hot, we wear double gloves at Chakana to clean them! Papa seca The Andes
famously has over 3,000 potato varieties. Papa seca are potatoes dried in very cold weather to preserve them. It’s said they can keep for years. Once rehydrated, they’re cooked with chicken or pork in carapulcra stew.
Yuyo
This seaweed is used a lot in Peru’s coastal areas, especially in sauces, dips and stews, or fried like tempura. You’ll find ceviche garnished with yuyo, too. Achiote
A paste made from this Amazonian seed is used as a marinade. It’s very subtle, but gives meat a velvety texture and reddish colour.
Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director JACK HUNTLEY
1 Season the beef and mix with the chilli paste. Heat 1 tbsp oil in an ovenproof pan and fry the beef over a medium-high heat until evenly browned on all sides. You’ll need to do this in batches and the pan should be hot enough to ensure the beef does not boil. Remove the beef to a bowl and heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. 2 Turn the heat down to medium, add another 1 tbsp oil and cook the onions and garlic for about 8-10 mins until caramelised. Pour in the beer and scrape up any browned bits using a wooden spoon. Return the beef to the pan and stir well. Add the bay leaves, chopped herbs, spices and dried mint, and slowly cook until the liquid has evaporated. Pour in the stock and bring to a simmer. Cover with a lid and cook in the oven for 1 hr. 3 Remove the stew from the oven and continue to cook, uncovered, on the hob over a low heat for 1 hr or
until slightly reduced. Add the potatoes and cook for 15-20 mins. Check the beef and potatoes are tender, then remove from the heat and leave to rest, covered. 4 Bring a small pan of water to the boil and prepare a bowl of iced water. Drop the tomatoes into the boiling water for 20 seconds, then
Food stylist TEGAN RIDGWAY | Stylist AMY KINNEAR
850g beef chuck steak, cut into 2cm chunks 120g sun-dried chilli paste (ají panca) 2 tbsp vegetable oil 3 red onions, finely chopped 6 garlic cloves, crushed 2 x 500ml cans of dark beer, such as brown ale (or use beef stock) 3 bay leaves 1 bunch of coriander, chopped 1 bunch of parsley, chopped 2 tsp each fennel seeds, coriander seeds and cumin seeds, toasted in a dry frying pan 2 tsp pink peppercorns 2 tsp dried muña mint (or use regular dried mint) 1.7 litres beef stock 6 medium-large Maris Piper or King Edward potatoes, quartered 60g ají amarillo paste To garnish 200g cherry tomatoes 120g canned cannellini beans, warmed through 120g broad beans, cooked and peeled handful of mixed chopped herbs (mint, coriander and parsley)
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Great Cooking, Perfectly Done
Potter and Mooch
Thermapen is for the cook who knows that temperature, not time, is the key to creating great food, helping you know exactly when your food is tasting at its very best. Quick, accurate and easy to use, it’s designed to take the guesswork out of every cooking challenge, from perfect roasts, to triumphant BBQ, magnificent cakes and delicious jams. Visit our website using voucher code PERFECT-08 to receive 20% off your order – offer ends 31st August 2021.
Explore our brand new collection of Ear Wings climbing earrings designed for a single piercing due to the small bar that runs up the back of the lobe. Each pair is handmade in England on either 925 Sterling Silver, 14ct Rose or Yellow GoldFilled wires with SWAROVSKI Elements. Hypo-allergenic and Nickel free. Loved by all ages. From £22 per pair. BUY 1 PAIR GET A 2nd WITH 30% OFF. Online or mail order.
01903 202151 thermapen.co.uk
01903 331744 potterandmooch.co.uk
Bear Cool Honey Company
Falk Culinair Ultimate Copper Pans
We are a local family beekeeping business based in Eckington, Derbyshire caring for our bees in our beautiful apiary producing award winning natural honey and beeswax from our colourful hives. We name our queen bees and give them the best homes we can provide in natural surroundings, happy bees create tasty honey!
Create the finest restaurant quality dishes with copper cookware from Falk. Beautifully designed with durable stainless steel linings and stylish 2.5mm bimetal vessels that let your food cook quickly and evenly. Eight different sets available direct from the manufacturer.
We also stock a wide variety of ethical, fair trade, eco gifts. Love our bees, love our planet. 07778 665775 bearcoolhoneycompany.co.uk
0800 1337560 falkculinair.co.uk
Hawkshead Relish Embellish with Relish Need recipe inspiration? With life getting increasingly busy it can be hard to find the time to enjoy a home-cooked meal; however, Hawkshead Relish have released a cookbook that will make you fall in love with your cupboard essentials. Embellish With Relish compiles family favourites and culinary creations so there is something for everyone. Easy to follow and personal touches will entice you to try something new. Use code: ‘GFAUG’ for £5 off over £25. Hawkshead Relish products online only, valid until 30.09.21. 01539 436614 hawksheadrelish.com