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Make.Eat.Share

ON SALE 1-31 AUGUST 2021 £4.99

Summer vibes

• Easy puddings for home & away • Staycation checklist • Great wines for sunny days KEEPING IT COOL SEAFOOD All-new salads SPECIAL Tiramisu cheesecake

WHAT’S OK TO BUY? PLUS Exclusive recipes by Rick Stein, Mark Hix, Chantelle Nicholson & more

Leftovers chilled soup

’ s k n o T h c t i M ake kiev fabulous h Don’t miss… • Chetna’s speedy Indian menu • Taste tested: award-winning summer buys

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welcome.

PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS: HANNAH HUGHES, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

means freedom. That’s August 2021 – extra special oined by thoughts of laughter-filled holidays, sunshine and g outside: what we like to call delicious. moments. I’m ediately imagining driving along in a campervan (even hough I don’t have one), so Claire Thomson’s recipes on p38 are timely. They embrace that spirit of escape home, fresh air and the great outdoors – so much so that oing away you’ll feel as if you are. Deep breaths, people d a good one-pan breakfast fry-up to boot). What else do we have for you? Answer: SO much. There’s chutney and ickling if you feel like preserving the bounty (p34 and p118); there are burgers with make-it-to-your-taste options – however you like your beefy barbie moment (p94); there’s a quick-cook Indian feast by the brilliant Chetna Makan (p56); then slow it down with Mediterranean roast lamb (p54); and speed it back up with one-pan meals for nights when you need a quick fix and more sunshine (p86)… Most useful of all, on p22 you’ll find an expert guide to sustainable fish: what to buy, what to avoid, plus inspiring recipes by chefs including Rick Stein, Mark Hix, Chantelle Nicholson and more. I wish you a month of the happiest gatherings, great cooking and, above all, delicious. eating. Have a great and sunny one – a onth.

or, delicious.

Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @editorkarenb

My recipe of the month Peach & passion fruit crumble traybake (p68): serve for pudding, take on a picnic — and take a picture to share on our Facebook page. The combo of sharp curd, fruit and almond crumbliness makes this my winning bake of summer 2021… so far.

Contents August Starters & nibbles. Made for sharing Courgette fries – gone in 60 seconds 11 delicious. world News, views, dates and August’s talking point – plus prizes! 19 A pint of cider with... Bake Off winner Candice Brown 130 Not for sharing Steak sarnie with onions & blue cheese

COVER RECIPE Hake kiev p30 RECIPE: MITCH TONKS. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOW. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON

Make. Eat. Share. FOR GLORIOUS WEEKENDS 22 Great British Seafood Your guide to sustainable fish, with recipes from top chefs 34 A cook’s view The lifeaffirming joy of pickling 38 Meals on wheels Cooking round the camp fire 46 Always a winner: Veggie tarts The glory of summer produce, encased in pastry 54 Seasonal Sunday roast Leg of lamb, Mediterranean-style

Cod off the menu? There’s plenty more fish in the sea

56 Chetna’s fast and fabulous Indian menu Maximium flavour, minimum effort 64 Three easy puds Simple bakes for home or away

Health. 76 Salads with benefits Plates of beautiful goodness 81 Health matters Fad-free diet news and advice 82 Is honey healthy? Sue Quinn answers a sticky question

Make life simple. EASY FOOD FOR BUSY NIGHTS 86 Take one pan... Midweek no-hassle recipes 91 Easy lunch Pea and mint fritters bring zing 92 Budget recipe It’s a pasty, but not as you know it 94 Cook once, eat twice Burgers three ways – you choose 96 Use it up Chilled herb soup and more leftovers ideas

Claire Thomson’s recipes are for easy summer cooking

Easy bake Madeira cake

The hub. SKILLS, TIPS AND BEST BUYS 108 Jen’s kitchen Our food ed’s tips, picks and product tests 110 Food geek Where there’s smoke there’s taste 112 Green kitchen Ideas and advice for eco living 113 Kitchen bookshelf Three guides with Italian roots 114 The technical bake Join the mile-high lemon pie club 116 UK cheese tour Hampshire’s answer to halloumi 117 Great Taste winners Seven sensational products 118 Weekend project Gill Meller’s summer bean chutney 120 Cheers! Picpoul, alcohol-free beer and top summer wines 122 Champion producers A fruity Welsh vinegar 124 delicious. discoveries 125 Recipe index

Can’t be bothered with puds? These will change your mind

Other great stuff. Style secrets The best sea-inspired tableware 69 Coming next month 70 Don’t forget your peeler How to pack for staycation cooking 72 SUBSCRIBE and get delicious. half price, plus a gift 80 EXCLUSIVE Treat someone to a book of their favourite recipes 100 JUST FOR YOU New online cookery courses with delicious. 102 Days and nights in the forest Exploring the Wye Valley 109 SAVE! Stellar griddle pan offer 113 COMPETITION Win a relaxing seaside spa break in Devon 126 Take five Brain teasers – our food quiz and crossword

A flavour-packed roast using lamb when it’s at its best

Classic madeira cake – and ways to pimp it

Sweet peas and salty feta are a perfect summer match deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5

The

manıfesto

The values underpinning everything we do and everything we are

Cooking is for everyone

You can trust us

Keeping it simple

The planet matters

Knowledge is good!

If we could get everyone in the world cooking we would. Food brings people together – families, friends, communities – and it’s a pleasure. Get your children involved with one of the three easy puds on p64 – you don’t need an added incentive when the results are this good.

Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, at least twice, using domestic ovens, so you can be confident our recipes work every time. When it comes to reviews, we only recommend discoveries (see p124) we deem to be good quality and worth the price tag.

Eating locally and seasonally, whenever you can, really is a no-brainer. We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find any unusual ones or what to swap them for. As for everyday meals (p85), they should be quick and easy, because… LIFE.

We believe it’s wise to eat more vegetables, less meat and less fish, and to ensure the meat and fish you do eat are sustainably sourced. In this issue we’re looking at how to enjoy the abundance of British seafood in a sustainable fashion – see p22.

We love to get you trying new challenges in the kitchen. Learning and honing skills makes cooking rewarding... That’s why you’ll find plenty of tips, how-to guides and videos for new techniques. You’ll always find bonus information in our Jen’s Kitchen feature (p108).

EYE TO EYE MEDIA LTD, AXE & BOTTLE COURT, 70 NEWCOMEN STREET, LONDON SE1 1YT deliciousmagazine.co.uk FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 01858 438424 Karen Barnes Editorial director, delicious. ART DESK Jocelyn Bowerman Art director, delicious. Naomi Lowe Head of design, Eye to Eye Media Helen Bull Art director, Eye to Eye Media EDITORIAL DESK info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk Les Dunn Managing editor, delicious. Hugh Thompson Projects editor Phoebe Stone Feature writer and co-ordinator, delicious. DIGITAL DESK Vic Grimshaw Head of digital, Eye to Eye Media Fiona Logan Digital editor and content producer Thea Everett Content producer Dorothy Kay Videographer

FOOD DESK Jen Bedloe Head of food, Eye to Eye Media Jess Meyer Acting deputy food editor (maternity cover) Sophie Austen-Smith Deputy food editor Laura McLeish Shoot production manager laura.mcleish@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Sue McMahon, Nicola Roberts, Amanda James Recipe testers Fiona Hunter Nutritionist MARKETING & PROMOTIONS Trinity Hislop Marketing executive trinity.hislop@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS Susy Atkins Wine editor Gill Meller, Sue Quinn, Debora Robertson With thanks to: Tina Betts, Holly Hawthorne, Stephanie Thomson, Corrie Heale

EYE TO EYE MEDIA Seamus Geoghegan Managing director 020 7803 4123 seamus.geoghegan@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Adrienne Moyce Publishing director adrienne.moyce@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Jo Sandilands Consultant editorial director Jake Hopkins Production director Darren Blundy Finance director darren.blundy@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk Adam Wright Finance manager 01733 373135 adam.wright@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk ADVERTISING SALES Jason Elson Advertising director 020 7150 5394 jason.elson@immediate.co.uk Roxane Rix Group head, partnerships 020 7150 5039 roxane.rix@immediate.co.uk Liz Reid Head of sales 020 7150 5439 liz.reid@immediate.co.uk

delicious. magazine is published under licence from News Life Media by Eye to Eye Media Ltd. ISSN 1742-1586. Printed in the UK by Walstead Group Ltd. Colour origination by Rhapsody. Copyright Eye to Eye Media Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations. Eye to Eye Media Ltd is a registered data user whose entries in the Data Protection Register contain descriptions of sources and disclosures of personal data. This paper is manufactured using pulp taken from well managed, certified forests. All prices correct at time of going to press. UK basic annual subscription rate for 12 issues is £59.88. Overseas subscriptions for 12 issues available on request. Back issues cost £6 each. Member of the Audit Bureau of Circulations. delicious. is a trademark of News Life Media.

6 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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Made for sharıng Recipe for four

This is the sort of moreish snack that moves you from “Ooh, maybe just the one” to “Oh dear, they’ve all gone” before you’ve finished the accompanying glass of chilled white wine. Have some self-control, please… RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: LAUREN MILLER

VEGGIE RECIPE

Courgette fries with spicy chilli mayonnaise Serves 4 Hands-on time 20 min You’ll also need Stick blender Useful to have Digital thermometer Bomba calabrese is a spicy condiment made with Calabrian chillies (it gives ’nduja its distinctive heat). Find it in Italian delis or at souschef.co.uk. Salting the courgettes ensures the fries are well seasoned and also draws out some moisture, helping keep the batter crisp. KNOWHOW

• 12 baby or 3 medium courgettes, cut into thin batons (about 1cm thick) • Vegetable oil for frying • 75g plain flour • 100-130ml sparkling water • 1 large free-range egg white (reserve the yolk for the mayonnaise)

• Salt flakes, grated lemon zest and parmesan, and oregano to serve For the spicy mayonnaise • 1 small garlic clove, finely grated • 1 large free-range egg yolk • 1 tsp dijon mustard • 180ml mild olive oil • Juice 1 lemon • 1-2 tbsp chilli pesto or bomba calabrese (see Know-how) 1 In a large bowl, toss the courgettes with a large pinch of salt to coat. Tip into a colander set over the bowl and leave for 20 minutes (see Know-how). 2 For the mayonnaise, put the garlic, egg yolk, mustard and oil in a jug, then whizz using a stick blender until it emulsifies and thickens. Add most of the lemon juice, the chilli pesto and a good pinch of salt to taste, adjusting with a little more salt or juice if needed. Cover and set aside. 3 Put a deep-sided sauté pan or

heavy-based pan over a medium-high heat and add 2-3cm vegetable oil. Heat to 180ºC on a digital thermometer (a piece of bread dropped into the oil should turn golden in 15-20 seconds). 4 Mix the flour in a large bowl with enough sparkling water to make a thin batter the consistency of double cream. Whisk the egg white in a separate bowl to soft peaks (that flop over), then fold into the batter. Pat the courgette batons dry with kitchen paper. Working in batches, toss the courgettes in the batter, then fry for about 1 minute until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper while you fry the rest. 5 Toss the hot courgette fries with salt flakes, lemon zest, parmesan and oregano, then serve immediately with the spicy mayonnaise. Per serving 496kcals, 45.2g fat (5.8g saturated), 5.2g protein, 16.4g carbs (1.5g sugars), 0.4g salt, 1.7g fibre

together time.

NEXT MONTH Gather round for pot sticker dumplings deliciousmagazine.co.uk 9

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world Go behind the scenes, get in the know, share your thoughts and creations – and join the conversation. Compiled by Phoebe Stone

News • Views • Cook & win • Meet the reader •

Oh we do love to be…

Spearing a wooden forkful of salt-and-vinegar-splashed chips and battered fish has to be high on the British summer wish list (find out what else makes the cut over the page…). From Aldeburgh to the Isle of Mull, discover our favourite ocean-adjacent fish and chip shops at deliciousmagazine. co.uk/bestchipshops – and email us with your recommendations.

Diary dates • Talking point • And more…

delicious. world.

Big little Italy

*BREAST CANCER NOW REMINDS SUPPORTERS TO FUNDRAISE SAFELY, FOLLOWING THE LATEST GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES ON SOCIAL DISTANCING

Cake for a cause

London has welcomed the UK’s first outpost of Italian food hall Eataly. The two-floor emporium near Liverpool Street is the 43rd location for the franchise, which has sites in Japan, the US, Brazil and, of course, Italy. Inside you’ll find a deli, greengrocer, butcher and fishmonger, three restaurants and a market kitchen. Mozzarella and pasta are made on site, and there are counters for coffee, cannoli, pizza and aperitivi, as well as a cookery school offering prosecco tastings and risotto and focaccia-making classes. eataly.co.uk

As if you needed a reason for tea and cake... Host an afternoon tea for Breast Cancer Now this August and you’ll be helping fund the charity’s vital research and support services, including its free helpline. Whether you’d like to host a tea party or Zoom quiz, or deliver cake to friends*, sign up for a free fundraising kit at breastcancernow. org/cuppa. And to make sure it goes off without a hitch...

Getting kicks in the kitchen

1 SET THE DATE Use the invitations in the fundraising kit and give friends something to look forward to. 2 DONATE WITH A CLICK Set up a JustGiving page at justgiving.com/campaign/AfternoonTea2021 and share the link with your supporters. 3 GET CHATTING Share ideas with other hosts on the Afternoon Tea Facebook group: facebook.com/ groups/afternoonteabreastcancernow 4 PLAN YOUR MENU You’ll find a recipe booklet (plus cake labels, games and a quiz) on the charity’s website – and we have lots more ideas at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/afternoontea

The Cookery School at Little Portland Street has launched an ambitious National Cooking Programme to equip teenagers with key cookery skills before they fly the nest – and it’s free. The London school’s 20 sessions, each an hour long, go live on Wednesdays at 5.30pm via YouTube and Instagram, and they’re hosted by expert tutors alongside beginner teenage cooks. Viewers can cook along and ask questions live or catch up later. cookeryschool.co.uk/national-cooking-programme Want to improve your skills as a grown-up? See the new collection of delicious. online cookery courses on p100

This month’s must-follow

@thecutlerychronicles on Instagram Who’s behind the @? Globetrotting broadcaster Leyla Kazim is a presenter on BBC Radio 4’s The Food Programme and co-created Lonely Planet’s 2018 book The Ultimate Eatlist: The World’s Top 500 Food Experiences. She began her food and travel blog, The Cutlery Chronicles, in 2012.

12 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

What’s great about her feed? Leyla’s info-packed posts (and stellar photos) capture the exhilaration of travelling. See recent guides to York and Folkestone in Kent, as well as dispatches from Mauritius, Lisbon, Tokyo and more. Check out her #PotToPickle videos for novice veg growers, too.

Recent research has revealed the summer moments we’re most looking forward to. Having a barbecue, family holidays and picnics top the list, with 69% feeling positive about their summer plans…

Top sausage! And the winners are... Champion producer: Dingley Dell Cured The Suffolk producer’s Albion (coppa-style shoulder), Essus (cacciatore-style hunter’s salami), Iceni (felino-style salami) and smoked dry cured back bacon all gained praise. dingleydellcured.co.uk Champion product: Wildman Charcuterie’s longhorn bresaola Melt-in-the-mouth wondrousness from fifth-generation butchers in the Yorkshire Dales. wildmanbritish charcuterie.co.uk Best black pudding: Charles MacLeod’s Stornoway black pudding A classic from the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides. charlesmacleod.co.uk Best Game Product: Great Glen Charcuterie’s green pepper and venison salami Rich and tender

sausage from the Scottish Highlands. greatglen charcuterie.com Best new product: Rare & Pasture pork & fennel salami You’ll swear it’s from Italy but it’s actually from Devon. rareandpasture.com Best smoked product: Wenlock Edge Farm’s smoked streaky bacon Porky perfection from Shropshire. wenlockedgefarm.co.uk Best traditional or heritage product: SaltPig Curing Company’s spiced loin A taste of yesteryear from the Cotswolds. saltpigcuring.co.uk Discover all the best-inclass winners, including top spreading and snacking products, at britishcharcuterie.live

23%

plan to hike in the hills, another 23% will host a garden party and 22% anticipate enjoying a beer at the beach

SOURCE: POLL OF 2,000 RESPONDENTS BY ONEPOLL FOR WAITROSE

PHOTOGRAPHS: SCHOOL FOOD MATTERS, STEVE LANCEFIELD, MAJA SMEND, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Is a trendy grazing platter on the menu for your summer gathering? Here are the products that scooped the top gongs in 2021’s British Charcuterie Live Awards

34%

dream of afternoon tea, with over half naming strawberries and cream as summer’s quintessential flavour

3 10 in

associate summer with Pimm’s and fish and chips

From the mailbox… Claire Nelson’s call to let people’s food and drink choices go unquestioned [Jul, p16] was echoed by many of you

Star email

…two boxes of premium red and white Portuguese wine worth over £50, by the experts from The Wine Show (Amazon Prime). These delicious wines stay fresher for longer thanks to their box format, which produces less CO2 than glass bottles do. For more information, visit thewine show.com/ boxed-wine

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN... Let us know your thoughts on this month’s issue by emailing us at info@ delicious magazine. co.uk *

14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

You shared what you’ve been making from the July issue

From Mary McGrory

Four years ago, my son went vegan. He’s an intelligent young man and had been reading up on it. Then the fun began: from waiting staff ff to checkout assistants, everyone seemed to fe eel they had a right to quiz him on his decisionmaking, challenge his personal ethics or tell him how deficient in vitamins and minerals h he would become. At first, these comments made me apologis ise ou ut f embarrassment. I’d say things like, “There’s always someone who likes to make life difficult,” then feel ashamed for not standing by my son. I’m pleased to say I now have a different attitude. I expect all of us to be treated with respect when we eat out and shop.

Moira Adams’ focaccia with rosemary and potatoes [p54] was a big success.

From Lisa Suddards My husband has switched to drinking non-alcoholic beer and I find it bizarre that people often feel the need to question this choice. Shouldn’t it be him questioning why they need an alcoholic drink to have a ‘good time’?

Lisa Crouch went straight to the gluten-free choc-caramel cookies [p104] – “the cookies are amazing”.

Subject That holiday feeling From Gillian Fawkes Debora Robertson’s article ‘how to holiday at home’ [Jul, p18] struck a chord. My husband and I are fans of motorcycle grand prix racing. Not being able to travel around Europe to spectate this year, I set myself the challenge of cooking a meal from the country hosting each race, and delicious. has been a great source of recipes. So far, we’ve enjoyed Portuguese fish stew [pictured] and custard tarts for Portimão, Raymond Blanc’s pear almondine for the French round and more. It’s like sitting in our own VIP suite.

Laura Moisan got in touch to tell us about her son’s brilliant fundraising initiative... 12-year-old Alfred, an aspiring chef from Kent, has written a book of interviews with his food heroes to raise money for food charity FareShare. In Conversation with Alfred Moisan has 70 Q&As, including Spanish legend Ferran Adrià. It’s on Amazon at £9.99, with profits going to FareShare. “I’m extremely proud of him,” says mum Laura.

Sue Chaplin’s prawn & chorizo skewers [p92] had no skewers but the family approved.

HAVE YOUR SAY Connect with other delicious. cooks on our reader panel on Facebook, where we post fun, food-related questions to help us get to know you better. From time to time, we’ll ask you for your feedback on delicious. – the magazine, website and our social channels. Join at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ readerpanel

*LETTERS MAY BE EDITED FOR SPACE/CLARITY. LETTERS ARE PUBLISHED ON THE BASIS THAT CONTRIBUTORS HAVE THE AGREEMENT OF ANYONE ELSE MENTIONED IN THEM FOR ANY PERSONAL INFORMATION TO BE PUBLISHED.

THIS MONTH’S STAR EMAIL WINS...

FROM THE delicious. READER PANEL ON FACEBOOK

delicious. world.

Meet the reader 32-year-old music teacher Kevin Flynn lives in South Lanarkshire, Scotland, with wife Rachel – plus a dog, two cats and two horses.

Cook it likewin!) delicious. (and

Food editor Jen Bedloe judges your outstanding cooking from the June issue

And the winner is…

The runners-up

How did you start cooking?

My wife taught me the basics, and now it’s my decompression after a busy day teaching. Baking has become a creative outlet too – I even have an Instagram account: @kevinflynnbakes.

SINEAD MCCULLAGH’S CAULIFLOWER FRITTERS (by Ben Tish) Jen says “Corrrr, what a feast!

Cheer-up food?

I have a theory there are four types of people: cake people, chocolate people, sweetie people, and those weird crisp people. Cake is my vice.

The crispy batter looks amazing.”

Top recipe from the mag?

I always come back to Eric Lanlard’s double-baked chocolate meringue brownie. Everyone goes mad for it – especially my young nephews. Favourite condiment?

Tabasco sauce makes fish and seafood sing.

the Eton mess roulades (our June cover recipe). I love how the backgrounds are becoming as elaborate as the creations. Karen’s winning entry is a perfectly made roulade, beautifully captured. I love the extra decoration, too.”

Drink order?

An ice-cold cider. Or a tequila and tonic. *AUGUST’S WINNER WILL BE PUBLISHED IN OUR OCTOBER ISSUE

Favourite celeb chef?

I love the way Nigel Slater writes. His approach is what I aim for: never intimidating, always inviting. Ideal weekend?

Walking somewhere rainy with my wife and dog, then a night in with my siblings and a Chinese takeaway. Want to be featured? Email info@deliciousmagazine. co.uk with a few words about yourself

KAREN WEEDON’S PERFECTLY ROLLED AND STYLED ETON MESS ROULADE Karen wins a Founders Club Membership from Edwards 1902 vodka, plus extras worth £500. Jen says “This month was definitely the battle of

WIN! Prize worth over

£500 TO ENTER and for Ts&Cs, go to delicious magazine.co.uk/ cooktherecipe

CATHERINE MCCARTHY’S USE IT UP VEGGIE FRITTERS Jen says “I love the addition of

the avo and bacon – what a great way to serve the veg scrap fritters. Looks like you had good weather for an al fresco moment, too.”

Want to have a go? Cook it like delicious. this month for a chance to win Cream Cornwall’s Reef bone china and tableware aking its inspiration from the world’s oceans, this 29-piece prize includes dinner plates, side plates, pasta bowls, linen napkins, coasters and placemats for four; plus a serving platter, salad bowl, oven glove, apron and table runner. creamcornwall.co.uk

GET COOKING AND SHARE A PHOTO with us by 31 August*

delicious. world.

The talking point

We’re quite good at BBQ these days, you know Why, as a nation that clearly loves to barbecue, do we put up with the reputation that we’re rubbish at it, asks grill enthusiast Neil Davey. It’s time we moved beyond the outdated clichés

Have Neil’s opinions got you fired up? Let us know at info@delicious magazine.co.uk

lighter fuel-scented flames. But these are choices. If you’re still doing this, it’s ALL on you. Let’s also bear in mind that those patronising media comments typically appear in the food pages of publications, often sitting alongside complex recipes for cakes, sauces, salads and the rest. Do these publications assume their readers are adept in the kitchen yet somehow, when they step into the garden to cook, become inept? Oh, and while we’re addressing barbecue stereotypes, can we PLEASE stop that gender rubbish too? All that ‘man come, make fire’ and ‘woman come, make salad’ nonsense? Or that ‘joke’ that men get all the credit for the barbecue when all they’ve done is wield a spatula ineptly for 20 minutes, when the ‘other half’ did the shopping, ensured sufficient disposable plates, made all the salads, sliced the rolls and will do all the washing up later while ‘chef’ has a well deserved drink? Yes, of course there are households where that still happens. But again, if that’s the case, that’s also all on you. Many of us have embraced this thing called the 21st century, and work together on the catering AND the clean-up, splitting the roles (and, for that matter, the rolls). Many of us know how to light charcoal without making it smell like an oil fire, how to arrange it so there are different temperature zones, how to use different woods for flavour. Hell, we may even know the difference between marinade (the noun) and marinate (the verb) – AND be able to offer a selection of wonderful vegan alternatives, cooked on a meat-free part of our carefully arranged grill. So, journalists: please stop tarring us all with that same basting brush.

“Many of us even know the difference between marinade (the noun) and marinate (the verb)”

PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

or many, many thousands of Brits, the barbecue is a thing of utterly varied, vibrant beauty – as dazzling a culinary experience as the flashiest dinner party, and a meal more likely to have leapt from the pages of Ottolenghi than the chiller cabinet with its value coleslaw. Why, then, every time summer comes around, do our lazy media insist on trotting out the same old stereotypes? You know the kind of thing: ‘We round up the latest must-have BBQ kit… to make salmonella chicken a thing of the past!’ and ‘Follow our handy BBQ tips – and never suffer a raw sausage again!’ or ‘Bored of burnt burgers? We’ll show you how you can up your BBQ game!’ I mean, where do you even start? The presumption that Brits don’t know how flames work? (Oh, and news flash: we already knew you could barbecue vegetables). Do they really think the average barbecueoer is so rooted in Britain’s BBQ dark ages that they haven’t realised every supermarket offers pre-skewered/ marinated/creative barbecue alternatives that go way beyond the Holy Trinity of the Grill: chicken, sausage and burger? Don’t get me wrong. I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with a barbecue of chicken, sausage and burgers (unless you don’t eat meat, of course). I also have zero doubt that many UK barbecues WILL see the worst packets from the freezer section thrown, like reclaimed meat sacrifices, onto a dirty grill over three-foot-high,

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A pint of cider with Candice Brown The Bake Off winner and publican talks about the importance of pubs, the need to speak up about mental health – and her ice lolly obsession

INTERVIEW: PHOEBE STONE. PORTRAIT: ELLIS PARRINDER. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

Pubs are in my blood. My mum and dad ran them for nearly 25 years, and the smell of stale smoke and beer on the carpet is pure nostalgia. They’re a great British institution. Now I run The Green Man in Bedfordshire with my brother Ben, and I’m so proud to have our own pub. You can’t be lonely in a pub. It’s the hub of the community – so much more than a drinking den. My mum was the epitome of a pub landlady. She was fierce and glamorous and inspired me to break boundaries. Suppliers ask me, “Do you want to stock low-calorie wine?” No. Why do women have to drink low-calorie pink fizzy wine? Each to their own, but I like a pint! I clean the urinals, waitress, change the barrels. It’s important for stereotypes to be broken because women are killing it in the hospitality world. My nan always had a drawer of ice lollies. Twisters, Calippos, Fabs… I love them. My grandad loved choc ices – he once ate five for dinner – so maybe it’s his fault. At school I would sometimes have a cherry brandy ice lolly for lunch, and I still do it now. One of my earliest

memories is getting an ice cream from the van called a Popeye – like a 99, but with a red ice lolly stuck in the top.

CANDICE’S ‘USUAL’ “I love a pint of cider – not a half – and pork scratchings or Scampi Fries. At The Green Man, we make homemade sausage rolls and there’s always cake – at the moment, it’s flapjacks and Nan’s boiled fruitcake. Bar snacks have moved on a bit, but you can’t beat a good packet of crisps or some dry roasted peanuts.”

I’m proud of and terrified about my new book, Happy Cooking. For the first time I talk about my mental health battles and ADHD [attention deficit hyperactivity disorder] diagnosis. It’s about what I do in the kitchen when I have a dark cloud around me. Mental health is difficult, and we need to encourage people to talk and get help. It’s okay if you’re not okay, because we’re all in this together and you should never be ashamed of what you’re going through. Yorkshire puddings should be stodgy. That ever-so-slightly undercooked stodge is the best bit. Pastry should have a little line of stodge – it soaks up all the flavour. On a crumble, the line between the fruit and the topping? Stodge. It’s the most comforting thing in the world. Lettuce never comforted anyone, did it? Happy Cooking (Ebury Press £22) is available to buy now deliciousmagazine.co.uk 19

Eat good do good feel good ✓ No added sugar ✓ No artificial colours, flavours or sweeteners ✓ High in fibre ✓ Palm oil-free ✓ Vegan W.K.Kellogg No Added Sugar Granola is healthy, nutritious and tasty. Plus, 10p from every pack sold goes to a good cause like a primary school breakfast club. That’s good all round!

wkkellogg.com W.K. Kellogg No Added Sugar Granolas contain ≥ 15% RI magnesium which contributes to normal energy-yielding metabolism. Enjoy as part of a varied, balanced diet and healthy lifestyle. Contain naturally occurring sugars. See website for details on how we support good causes: wkkellogg.com. TM, ®, © 2020 KELLOGG Company

Make. Eat. Share.

Inspiration and dreams. Magical menus. Taking time.

Glorious weekends. Special moments. What’s good now.

››

Cornish queen scallop rice (paella)

The great British seafood special What’s okay to eat... What’s not PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON

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In the year of the great British seaside holiday, it’s time to celebrate the abundance and diversity of British seafood… Or is it? These days, it’s hard to pick up a box of sustainably sourced pollock fish fingers without worrying you’re depleting the oceans. We fished for information on the UK’s seafood stocks – and asked some of the UK’s hottest seafood chefs to share their sustainable creations ne moment you’re rushing to support shellfish farmers battered by Brexit, the next you’re swearing off seafood for life after having watched the Netflix documentary Seaspiracy. When it comes to sourcing fish responsibly, the waters are very muddy indeed. To help clear them, we spoke to people whose mission it is to support sustainable fishing practices in Britain. That’s not to say there aren’t sustainable sources beyond our shores, but in an effort to reduce our food miles – and support hundreds of fishermen left high and dry by Brexit and the pandemic – it makes sense to source at home.

The bad news

This means that cod, tuna and prawns shouldn’t be your ﬁrst port of call. Most prawns eaten in the UK are imported frozen from Southeast Asia and South America, where they’re farmed or caught in ways that are often damaging to the local ecosystem. The sustainability of Atlantic cod varies, but UK cod stocks are considered perilously small – so most of the cod we eat here comes from Iceland and Norway.

many producers on the brink of bankruptcy. The tragedy, beyond the impact on industry, is that bivalves can be a brilliant, sustainable source of protein. They filter the water around them, improving its quality, and provide microhabitats for fish and smaller invertebrates. They also require little or no feed, which is a great advantage when you consider that a good proportion of the wild fish caught worldwide becomes food for fish farms.

Let’s buy British!

So why aren’t we eating more British seafood? And why is it so hard to figure out what’s sustainable? The answer has a lot to do with our dependence on supermarkets. Buying from a fishmonger – as previous generations did – means choosing from what’s on the counter, but many supermarkets have popular items filleted and constantly in stock, blinding us to seasonality and fluctuating fish populations, and giving the illusion that there’s an unlimited supply. It’s not that people don’t want to support British seafood – indeed, this past year Brits were keen to support fishermen and fishmongers through the pandemic. This was helped by “the renaissance in British food culture seeping into seafood”, according to George Clark of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), an independent certification body that accredits sustainable fisheries worldwide with a blue MSC label. As demand rose, some supermarkets supported British producers: “Waitrose was prioritising British species, and sales of clams, cockles, Cornish sardines and hake exploded,” says Clark, and consumers are seeking out the blue label rather than relying on vague claims. This is good news for larger producers who can afford MSC certification, but smaller fisheries aren’t represented in supermarkets and can’t afford the certification process, even though they might be following best practice.

“Britain has been exporting 80% of its catch — and importing 80% of what we eat”

WORDS: CLARE FINNEY

And now for the good news…

Our waters are home to a wealth of alternatives (see The Big Fish Swap, p28) that can be sustainably fished. Ben King is the co-founder of online retailer Pesky Fish, which aims to shorten the supply chain between fishermen and customers (see Where To Buy, p26). “Britain has been exporting 80% of its catch – and importing 80% of what we eat,” he says. Pre-pandemic and pre-Brexit, this was less of a problem: British producers sold their catch abroad to those who were “more appreciative of our seafood”. But when the pandemic shut hospitality, demand plummeted – an issue compounded by the EU’s import ban on live bivalves (clams, oysters, mussels and scallops) from the UK. After Brexit, our shellfish exports fell by 62%, leaving

The MSC vs the MCS

“The MSC is good, but it only applies to big organisations,” says CJ Jackson of The Seafood School at London’s Billingsgate market. “My focus is to encourage people →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 23

to buy from small boats, choose seasonal fish, support local fishing fleets – and refer to the Marine Conservation Society (MCS).” The MCS traffic light system (install the app at mcsuk.org) tracks the state of fish stocks, so you can support the smaller UK fisheries that fishmongers and online suppliers source from (see p26). It’s also better able to make sense of disparities between countries. Mackerel, for example, isn’t MSC listed because of international disagreements over stock management, yet UK stocks remain strong, according to Lewis Colam, who has a family fleet in Plymouth and compiles weekly fish boxes with chef Mark Hix (one reason why Mark gave us his recipe for crispy mackerel and pea salad, p31). “What people need to look at is how the fish have been caught,” says Ben King. Pesky’s fishermen only catch fish above a certain size, so they’ve had time to reproduce. “The larger the fish, the higher the probability that stocks will climb,” he says. This makes fishing and farming methods vital: “If a line fisherman catches too small a fish, he can let it go. With a huge trawler, it gets caught up.” This ensures populations remain healthy and avoids the collateral damage outlined in the Seaspiracy documentary: the trapping of dolphins, birds and other sea life, as well as seabed damage. “Every purchase you make in support of marine conservation methods makes the industry better,” says King – which is one reason why he found Seaspiracy so frustrating. “It didn’t mention initiatives that have proven you can create a sustainable fishing economy,” he says. By concentrating on supertrawlers and intensive farms, the documentary painted the situation with so broad a brush as to be misleading. It did, however, get people asking more questions about where their seafood comes from – and that, says The Seafood School’s CJ Jackson, is no bad thing.

“What people need to look at is how the fish have been caught.”

AND NOW FOR THE RECIPE INSPIRATION ››

24 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Coley with beer, bacon & cabbage by Rick Stein Serves 4 Hands-on time 30 min (including simmering time) Grill time 4-8 min Cook the cabbage and prepare the fish a few hours ahead and chill separately. Reheat the cabbage and grill the fish to serve. MAKE AHEAD

• 50g butter • 4 x 175g pieces sustainable unskinned coley or hake fillet • 1 small savoy cabbage (about 750g), cored and thinly sliced • 2 tbsp sunflower oil • 75g outdoor-reared rindless smoked streaky bacon, cut into thin strips • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 garlic clove, very finely chopped • 300ml chicken stock • 300ml pale ale • 2 tbsp chopped parsley, plus extra to garnish 1 Melt 25g of the butter. Brush the fillets with a little of the melted butter, then sprinkle the skin with salt and pepper. 2 Put the cabbage in a large pan of boiling salted water and bring back to the boil. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan, add the bacon and fry over a high heat until crisp and lightly golden. Add the rest of the melted butter, the onion and garlic and fry for 5 minutes until the onion is softening and lightly browned. 3 Add the chicken stock and ale to the pan and turn up the heat to reduce the volume of liquid by three quarters (the timing varies depending on the size of your pan and how high the heat is, so keep an eye on it). Add the cabbage and remaining 25g butter, then turn down the heat and cook gently for 5 minutes until the cabbage is tender.

Season, then add the parsley and keep warm (see Make Ahead). 4 Heat the grill to high. Grill the fillets (skin-side up) on one side only until the skin is crisp and the fish is cooked through – depending on your grill and the thickness of the fish, this can take from 4-8 minutes. Divide the cabbage among 4 large, warmed soup plates. Sprinkle the skin of the fish with a little sea salt, coarsely ground black pepper and chopped parsley, then lay the fillets on top of the cabbage and serve. Per serving 449kcals, 22.7g fat (9.2g saturated), 40.9g protein, 12.6g carbs (12g sugars), 1.2g salt, 7.9g fibre

Cornish queen scallop rice (paella) by Quique Dacosta Serves 4 Hands-on time 25 min Simmering time 50-60 min You’ll also need 26cm paella pan or shallow cast-iron frying pan Useful to have Food processor

“I created this British take on a paella to champion UK seafood and support local fishermen. I’m passionate about sustainability, minimising food waste and promoting the UK’s wonderful produce.” QUIQUE DACOSTA, PIONEERING CHEF OF ‘NEW VALENCIAN’ CUISINE AND CULINARY DIRECTOR OF ARROS QD →

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“Sustainability is of vital importance to my restaurants. We work with fish merchants who buy local fish from boats that only go out to sea a day at a time. The vast majority of the fish we use in our restaurants is sourced from the South West.” CHEF, AUTHOR, RESTAURATEUR AND TV PRESENTER RICK STEIN

Coley with beer, bacon & cabbage

Make the sofrito up to 2-3 days ahead, then cover and chill until ready to use. You will have some left over – use it up in pasta sauces or sausage casseroles. Buy freeze-dried sea KNOWlettuce from finefood HOW specialists.co.uk or frozen sea lettuce from Amazon. Or use other seaweed, samphire or baby spinach leaves. Bomba is a Spanish short-grain rice often used for paella. It can absorb three times its volume in liquid without the grains becoming claggy. Find it at Waitrose or at brindisa.com, or use another paella rice. MAKE AHEAD

• 1 litre seafood stock (see Jen’s Kitchen, p109) • 30ml (about 2 tbsp) sofrito oil – see below • 6 Cornish queen scallops (with the shells if you can get them) • 200g bomba paella rice • 50g (about 2 heaped tbsp) tomato sofrito (see below) • 100g butter beans • 6 leaves British sea lettuce (see Know-how) • Marie rose sauce to serve For the tomato sofrito • 90ml extra-virgin olive oil • 1 small onion (50g), chopped

• 3-4 garlic cloves (15g), chopped • ¼ tsp (or a large pinch) smoked paprika • Pinch saffron • 300g vine tomatoes, grated or whizzed in a food processor 1 For the sofrito, add the oil to a large pan set over a medium heat. Once it’s hot, add the onion and garlic and cook until they become translucent – about 5 minutes. 2 Turn down the heat to low, make some space in the pan, then add the smoked paprika and toast for a few seconds. Blend it well into the mix. Repeat the same process with the saffron – let it cook on its own for a minute, then stir into the mix. 3 Turn up the heat to medium and add the tomatoes. Stir well and cook until the water evaporates and the mix has the consistency of a thick paste – this should take about 10 minutes. Drain the sofrito in a fine sieve over a jug or bowl to catch the oil (reserve it). Put the paste in a separate bowl. 4 To make the paella rice, heat the stock in a saucepan until simmering but not boiling. Put the paella pan on a high heat and pour in the 2 tbsp sofrito oil. Once the oil is hot, add the scallops, flat-side down. Cook

for 1-2 minutes only, then remove and set aside. 5 Add the rice to the pan, then turn the heat to low and cook until the grains are translucent (1-5 minutes). Stir the 50g sofrito paste and butter beans into the rice and heat for 1 minute. 6 Pour in the stock, turn up the heat to high and bring to the boil. Cook for 7-8 minutes. Spread out the rice across the pan, without stirring excessively. 7 Once the stock starts to reduce after 2-3 minutes, lower the heat to medium and cook for another 8-10 minutes until a lot of the liquid has evaporated. Arrange the scallops and sea lettuce on top of the rice, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 3-5 more minutes. 8 To create a socarrat (a crispy layer of rice underneath), bring the temperature up to the highest heat and cook for 1½-5 minutes. Once the rice has soaked up all the stock, let the paella rest for a few minutes, then dress the scallops with marie rose sauce and enjoy! Per serving 674kcals, 37.8g fat (4.5g saturated), 21.2g protein, 58.5g carbs (6.3g sugars), 0.7g salt, 7.4g fibre For more ways to use bomba rice, see Use It Up

The Cornish Fishmonger A family-run business that buys direct from small dayboats that fish responsibly and in season. The fishmongers prepare the fish and send it off to you by courier. thecornishfishmonger.co.uk Pesky Fish A true online marketplace, Pesky opens its ‘doors’ at 6pm and shuts at midnight. You choose from what the fishermen have caught that day, and once it’s gone, it’s gone. Each box

includes a handwritten card from the skipper in question so you know who caught your fish and from where. peskyfish.co.uk Sound Seafood Based in Plymouth, it’s been catching and processing fish for four generations. Boxes are sent directly to your door, and each is accompanied by an online tutorial and recipe from Mark Hix. soundseafood.co.uk Fish For Thought It has worked with the MSC,

the MCS and the Cornwall Good Seafood Guide to produce its sustainable, ethically sourced selection of seafood, which is delivered in fully recyclable packaging. It buys British where possible. fishforthought.co.uk Fishbox This seafood subscription service based in Aberdeenshire promises seasonal fish from small boats and a serious commitment to sustainability. fishbox.co.uk

PORTRAIT OF CHANTELLE: LAT.PHOTO@HAYMARKET.COM

WHERE TO BUY: ethical online suppliers

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5 WAYS TO TRANSFORM YOUR FISH BUYING By CJ Jackson, principal of The Seafood School at London’s Billingsgate Market

“This sweet, spicy sambal is one of my favourite things. And combined with butter it’s even more delicious. I like to serve it with mussels as a broth with loads of fresh herbs.” CHANTELLE NICHOLSON, CHEF/OWNER TREDWELLS, LONDON

1. Shop seasonally The Marine Conservation Society (MCS) has a chart showing when species are spawning or producing roe, which is when you should avoid them. Generally speaking, autumn is a good time to eat fish. 2. Buy – and cook – on the bone We need to get away from a ‘no eyes, no gills, no skin’ attitude. It’s much easier to tell if fish is fresh when it’s on the bone (bright eyes, deep red gills). And if you cook fish on the bone, you have a much lower chance of overcooking it. 3. Look for the ASC label Around half the fish we eat is farmed, which comes with issues around the pollution of the surrounding environment and the sustainability of fish feed. The ASC (Aquaculture Stewardship Council) label indicates feed can be traced back to sustainable sources and sets requirements around protecting and improving local ecosystems. 4. Go for frozen If you’re buying fish to keep in the freezer, you’re better off buying it already frozen – it’s frozen faster and at lower temperatures than you can get with a home freezer. Look out for the FAS (Frozen At Sea) label, meaning fish is frozen within two hours of being caught. 5. Store it carefully Wrap white fish carefully, then place it on ice blocks in the fridge – that will keep it fresh for 2-3 days. Oily fish such as sardines and mackerel spoil sooner, so eat within 24 hours. →

Mussels with sambal butter & fresh herbs

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THE BIG FISH SWAP It’s hard to get a sense of the scale and diversity of fish landed in Britain because so much of our catch is exported. The past year has seen some rebranding – “Megrim sole doesn’t sound very sexy, so that’s Cornish sole now,” laughs Katie Toogood, who owns fishmongers and restaurants in Cornwall and London – and here are some fish you can choose instead of overfished favourites... If you like cod… Hake, pollock and coley are “all really nice, white, flaky fish,” says Toogood – and in good supply. Find MSC-rated hake in Waitrose and Morrisons. If you like lemon sole… Cornish sole (megrim) is a good replacement, though not so firm. Another alternative is

plaice, says Ben King of Pesky Fish: “Since cod stocks have been so low, there’s been an explosion of flatfish because cod eat flatfish eggs.” If you like prawns… The first sustainable prawn farm in the UK collapsed this year due to Covid pressures. Another is in the works; in the

• 3 tbsp fish sauce (gluten free if it needs to be)

Mussels with sambal butter & fresh herbs by Chantelle Nicholson Serves 4 Hands-on time 15-20 min Simmering time 40-50 min You’ll also need Small food processor or nutribullet blender Make the sambal up to a few days ahead and store in an airtight container in the fridge. Sambal is an Indonesian KNOWchilli sauce, used to HOW flavour a variety of dishes. Make it spicy or mild. MAKE AHEAD

• 2kg sustainable mussels • 100g unsalted butter, diced • 4 banana shallots, halved and finely sliced • 300ml chicken or vegetable stock • 1 quantity sambal (see below)

For the sambal • 2 fat garlic cloves, crushed • 25g fresh ginger • 1 lemongrass stalk, thinly sliced • 2-3 red chillies, roughly chopped (leave the seeds in if you like it spicy, remove if not) • 2 banana shallots or small onions, diced • 2½ tbsp vegetable oil • ½ tsp table salt • 1 tbsp dark brown soft sugar • 2 tbsp tamarind paste • 150g tomato passata To serve • 2 heads spring greens (or leafy spinach), finely sliced • ½ bunch mint, leaves picked • Bunch coriander, leaves picked or roughly chopped • 1 lime, quartered 1 Whizz the sambal ingredients – apart from the sugar, tamarind paste and tomato passata – in a food processor/blender until semi smooth. Heat a large frying pan over a low-medium heat. Once hot, add the paste and cook gently, stirring regularly, for 20-30 minutes until it’s a deep, dark red colour. Add

meantime look for wild-caught Cornish prawns, Scottish langoustines or crayfish. If you like seabass… “Populations are recovering in some areas, so check where your seabass is from,” says the MCS. Opt for line-caught if available, or consider sustainably farmed seabass.

the remaining sambal ingredients, then simmer for 10 minutes more. Taste and add a little extra salt or sugar if you like. Set aside or chill until needed (see Make Ahead). 2 Rinse the mussels under cold running water. Remove any visible barnacles and dirt. Pull any beards towards the hinged end of the mussel shell firmly until they come out. If any of the mussels are open, tap them hard against a work surface – if they don’t close, discard them. 3 Melt the butter in a large saucepan (one with a lid) that’s big enough to fit all the mussels. Add the shallots and cook until soft, then add the stock, sambal, fish sauce and salt to taste. Bring to the boil for 5 minutes, then add the mussels, put the lid on the pan and cook on a high heat for 4 minutes. Remove the lid and check to see if most have opened – if not, put the lid back on and cook for a further minute. 4 Divide the chopped greens among 4 deep bowls, top with the mussels and broth, then serve with the fresh herbs and a wedge of lime for squeezing over. Per serving 491kcals, 32.2g fat (14.3g saturated), 32.4g protein, 15.1g carbs (12g sugars), 4.7g salt, 5.9g fibre

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Oysters with dongchimi (radish kimchi) by Pamela Yung

The prettiest oysters in town

Serves 2 Hands-on time 30 min, plus 2-5 days fermenting and 4 days chilling You’ll also need Large lidded container or 2 large (2 litre) kilner jars; food processor Prepare the dongchimi (radish kimchee) at least 9 days ahead. Keep it in the fridge and use it up with stews, salads and in toasties. You can buy ready KNOWshucked frozen oysters HOW from fishsociety.co.uk, or ask your local fishmonger to source them for you. Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit. Use a mix of lemon and orange zest instead – or use a splash of yuzu juice from a bottle. The leaves and seeds of the sansho pepper plant have a tangy lemon flavour. MAKE AHEAD

• 6 sustainable oysters • Chives and chive flowers or other edible flowers/micro herbs to serve • Sea campion (if available) to serve For the salted veg for the dongchimi • 1kg radishes (Korean, mooli/ daikon or breakfast radishes), peeled, halved lengthways, then cut into half moons • 1 Chinese leaf lettuce, washed and quartered at the root • 1 large carrot (100g), peeled and sliced on the diagonal • ½ kohlrabi (100g), peeled and cut into wedges – or use mooli • 60g salt For the marinade for the dongchimi • 4 garlic cloves, smashed • 50g ginger • Zest 1 yuzu (or sansho leaves or lemon zest – see Know-how)

“When I first experienced the magic of dongchimi, I knew it would make a perfect pairing with briny, sweet oyster meat. My friend Amy Yi, a chef in NYC, gave me her family’s recipe for dongchimi, and we’ve adapted it for the kitchen at Flor. While the radishes are essential, the other veg are not. The best part is the brine — I like to age mine for months, but even after a week it’s amazing.” PAMELA YUNG, HEAD CHEF AT FLOR RESTAURANT, LONDON

• ½ bunch chives, cut into batons • 2 organic pears, quartered and core removed • ½ onion, roughly chopped • 2 litres spring or filtered water 1 Salt the vegetables (including in between the cabbage leaves) and pack into the container/jars. Pour over any excess salt. Seal and leave in the fridge for 4 days. 2 Combine the garlic, ginger, yuzu zest, chives, pears, onion and half the water in a food processor, then whizz to a purée. Add the rest of the water and taste – it should be quite sweet. 3 Strain, then pour the liquid over the salted vegetables. Loosely seal the container/jars (take off the rubber seals) and

leave at room temperature for 2-5 days. Taste it daily – I move it into the fridge once it’s pleasantly sour and slightly effervescent. 4 Shuck and halve the oysters, reserving the juices. Slice some of the dongchimi veg into batons. 5 Put the oysters rounded-side down in the shells in an ice-cold bowl or over ice. Mix some dongchimi liquid with a bit of oyster juice and drizzle over them. Garnish with the dongchimi as you like – I like to add fresh chive batons, chive flowers and sea campion. Per serving 338kcals, 3g fat (0.4g saturated), 21.2g protein, 15.8g carbs (45.4g sugars), 4.2g salt, 15.8g fibre →

SHUCKING YOUR OWN OYSTERS?

Find a handy guide at delicious magazine. co.uk/ how-to-shuckoysters

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 29

Hake kievs by Mitch Tonks

“Who doesn’t love chicken Kiev? Warm, melting garlic butter with seafood is a match that’s hard to beat. I love playing around with the big fryers, so I tried these out one day. I loved them and thought they would be popular, but I knew the chefs would hate me for even thinking about putting them on the menu as they are a little fiddly — easy for two but tough for 200!” MITCH TONKS, CHEF, AUTHOR AND OWNER OF ROCKFISH RESTAURANTS

Serves 2 Hands-on time 20 min Oven/frying time 10 min, plus freezing and chilling You’ll also need Food processor Useful to have Digital thermometer; deep-fat fryer or deep, heavy-based pan You’ll have about 80g garlic butter left over – wrapped well, this freezes for up to 6 months. DON’T WASTE IT

• 2 thick skinless hake fillets (about 200-250g each) • 100g garlic butter (see below) • 2 free-range medium eggs, beaten • 2 handfuls (50g) plain flour

• 100g panko breadcrumbs Oil for deep-frying For the garlic butter • 4 garlic cloves, peeled • Good handful flatleaf parsley • 2 anchovies • 125g salted butter, at room temperature • Splash of Pernod/pastis (optional) • Couple of drops Tabasco or other chilli sauce 1 Make your garlic butter: pulse the garlic, parsley and anchovies in a food processor to make a purée. Add the softened butter and whizz for 2-3 minutes, scraping down the bowl. Add a splash of Pernod (if using) and a few drops of Tabasco/ chilli sauce, then mix again. Shape the butter into a block about the same length as a pack of butter. Wrap in baking paper and put in the freezer for 30 minutes to set. 2 Put a fillet on a work surface. Put one hand on top and, with a sharp knife, make a horizontal incision about two thirds of the way into the fish. Do the same with the other fillet. Take the butter from the freezer and slot a thick slice into each fish fillet. 3 Put the eggs in a bowl and the flour and breadcrumbs on separate plates. Using one hand, dip each piece of fish in the flour, then the egg and finally in the breadcrumbs. Repeat 2-3 times until you have a thick, even coating on each fillet. Cover and chill for 30 minutes. 4 Fill a heavy-based pan or deep-fat fryer no more than half full of oil, then heat it to 170°C (or if you don’t have a thermometer or deep-fat fryer, heat the oil until a small piece of bread dropped into the oil turns golden in 20-25 seconds). 5 Deep-fry the fish kievs for 6-7 minutes until golden, crisp and cooked through. Serve with a salad. Per serving 859kcals, 62.2g fat (29.6g saturated), 47.5g protein, 27.1g carbs (1.1g sugars), 2.1g salt, 0.5g fibre

RECIPE TAKEN FROM ROCKFISH: THE COOKBOOK (JON CROFT EDITIONS £18). PORTRAITS: STEVE HAYWOOD, MATT AUSTIN

★ COVER RECIPE

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Crispy mackerel and pea salad by Mark Hix Serves 4 as a starter Hands-on time 25-30 min You’ll also need Plate lined with kitchen paper

“There are endless things to do with mackerel, but this is one of my favourites. It’s a nice, clean, summery dish that you can prepare with whole mackerel or fillets. If the fillets are small, use two per person.” MARK HIX, FOOD WRITER, RESTAURATEUR AND CHEF OF THE OYSTER & FISH HOUSE IN LYME REGIS

• 150g peas, fresh or frozen (shelled weight if using fresh) • 1 tbsp plain flour to dust • 4 fillets from a large mackerel (about 100-120g each) or 8 smaller fillets, bones removed, or 4 small whole mackerel, cleaned, scaled and gutted • 1 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil • A couple handfuls small salad leaves and soft herbs to serve For the dressing • Zest and juice 1 orange • ½ tbsp cider vinegar • 2 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 To make the dressing, put the orange juice in a small pan and simmer gently until it has reduced by half. Mix the reduced juice with the orange zest, cider vinegar and rapeseed oil. Season to taste and set aside. 2 Cook the peas in boiling salted water for a few minutes until tender, then drain and toss with the orange dressing. 3 Put the flour on a plate and season well. Dust the pieces of

Crispy mackerel and pea salad

mackerel in the flour, shaking off any excess. 4 Heat the rapeseed oil in a heavy or non-stick frying pan and fry the mackerel pieces skin-side down for 2-3 minutes until the skin is crisp, then turn them over and cook for a couple of minutes on the other side. Transfer the fish to the paper-lined plate to drain. If serving whole mackerel, add a little extra frying time and ensure the fish is cooked through by checking it flakes away easily from the bone. 5 Arrange the salad leaves/herbs on 4 plates, then top with the fish. Spoon over the peas and dressing, then serve right away. Per serving 360kcals, 26.8g fat (4.6g saturated), 21g protein, 7.7g carbs (1.6g sugars), 0.4g salt, 2.2g fibre

HERE’S WHAT THE delicious. FACEBOOK READER PANEL SAY “We love fish, but I haven’t ventured beyond the supermarket – lack of time to go to a separate fishmongers and lack of confidence!” Kevin Flynn

quality that I want to stick with it.” David Bridges-Fine

“Love fish. Have cooked crabs, which we prefer to lobster. Will fillet, gut, etc, but hate descaling.” Janet Warren

“With no fishmonger locally, it’s a struggle to get quality fish at a reasonable price.” Sharon Johnson

“In the last three months I’ve switched from the supermarket to my local (city centre) fishmonger. I’ve noticed such a difference in the

“I’ve never braved cooking a live lobster or crab, but I do fillet fish.” Fiona Turnbull

“My parents-in-law live in the far highlands of Scotland where they have an abundance of lobster and crab. My kids love it!” Louise Duff

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 31

Our brewmasters artfully combine 4 hop varieties from around the world to create a beer that inspires new taste adventures. Discover Birrificio Angelo Poretti No. 4.

ITALI AN HOPMAST ERS S INCE 1 87 7

home.

1 The Jackson s for gorgeous handmade j their placemats are a point of difference. As well as ﬁsh, there are crab and octopus designs too. Fish placemat in natural, £20, thejacksons.co.uk

2 Quintessentially coastal, this pot holder is a stylish, handy alternative to the less stylish over-the-shoulder tea towel. And if you love the print as much as we do, you can kit out your kitchen in the rest of the range. Lobster pot grab, £10, sophieallport.co.uk

3 The Gluggle jug, so-called for the sound it makes when pouring, is an iconic piece of ﬁsh-inspired design. Extra large cobalt blue ceramic Gluggle Jug, £35, oliverbonas.com

4 Banish boring water glasses to the back of the cupboard in favour of this quirky, stackable set. Four different tumbler designs stack to make a koi ﬁsh centrepiece for the dinner table. They’re dishwasher and freezer-safe too.

STYLE SECRETS

Ocean living

This month, our seafood recipes have inspired the theme for Laura McLeish’s selection of mats, china, linens, glassware and more

Teal fish stacking glasses, £48 ffor a set of four, mintandmay.co.uk

5 Alice Straker’s art is brigght, ht textural t t l and inspired by the sea. Th his particular print is available u can in different colours, so you choose the one that workss best with your kitchen colour scheme. s ‘Sardines’ art print by Alice Straker, £26 for a 28cm x 35.5cm print, iamfy.co

6 Don’t let practical considerations detract from a beautifully y dressed table. This eco-friendly cork trivet is also available in a ﬁve-ﬁsh version, perfectt for larger pots and pans. Three-fish cork trivet, £16, loveliga.co.uk

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T he joy of

preserves &pickles If the past 18 months have made you slow down a bit, says Debora Robertson, you may appreciate the pleasure of creating a jar of something good

PHOTOGRAPHS: HANNAH ROSE HUGHES. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

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was talking to a friend recently about what we can take from this extraordinary episode in all of our lives. My friend said a literary agent told her she’d been swamped missions about Covid, but precisely no one wants to read The Great Covid Novel. We’ve lived it. I don’t know about you, but I’ve done quite enough thinking about it, worrying about it, grieving about it, thank you. I want to move forward. It’s notable that the flu pandemic after the First World War, which killed 10 million more people than the war itself, produced almost no great art. People longed just to get on with their lives, with barely a backward glance. What I think I will take from this time, and perhaps you will too, is the quiet mastery of new skills and the pleasure of taking time over things. I didn’t really do that before, as I always felt I should be rushing somewhere. ‘Busy’ was a habit, as much of a lifestyle choice as yoga retreats or Iron Man challenges. In spring 2020, many of us embarked on a sourdough adventure, only to realise as the year went on that we needed something to spread on, or serve alongside, all that bread. By last summer, almost everyone I knew was bottling, pickling and preserving, often to have something to do with all the produce they suddenly found themselves growing. (Who knew all those seeds would germinate?) We were riding along on a wave of homemade marmalade, jams, preserves, pickles and ferments. We swapped jars of sauerkraut and kimchi with our neighbours over the fence in the way we once

exchanged gossip. (Who had any gossip, when no one was going anywhere?) According to Waitrose, last year searches for pickling went up by 220% and sales of white vinegar rose by almost 30%. And that wasn’t just me looking. I asked my friend Thane Prince, queen of the preserving pan, judge on BBC Two’s The Big Allotment Challenge and the author of Perfect Preserves: 100 Ways to Preserve Fruit and Vegetables why, in our moment of crisis, preserving appealed to us so much. “With so many more hours spent at home, finally there was space for all of us to consider the long, gentle simmering of a chutney, the many stages of making the perfect pickle, the joy of cooking small batches of jams and jellies and seeing the end product: jars of jewel-like preserves lined up on your shelf; a tangible result of a difficult time. There is a community in preserving too, many tasks for small or large fingers to assist with: much peeling, chopping, stirring, washing of bottles and writing of labels, so every member of the household can be involved. The simple message is that while today might be tough, there will be jam tomorrow.” Personally, I love the phrase ‘putting up’– the soothing, calming feeling of filling a shelf with jars of boozy marmalade for a cheering breakfast, pickles to make a lunch out of a slice of bread and a piece of cheese, kimchi to put alongside pork chops for dinner, kombucha because apparently all drinks don’t have to be wine… Bottle some joy. You’ll be glad you did.

“We embarked on a sourdough adventure only to realise we needed something to spread on it”

What skills did you perfect during lockdown? Tell us at info@delicious magazine.co.uk

Turn the page for Debora’s pickled peaches →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 35

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Pickled peaches “If this is a new adventure for you, start modestly. Small batches — enough for personal use and a bit to give away — give pleasure without you having to concede half your life (and your whole kitchen) to their production.” Makes 1.5kg (about 10 servings) Hands-on time 20 minutes You’ll also need Large Kilner-type jar, about 1.5 litres • 1.2kg just ripe but still firm peaches (about 10) • Thinly pared zest and juice from an unwaxed lemon – use a sharp peeler and avoid the bitter white pith – you want thin strips about 2cm by 5cm • 1 litre white wine vinegar • 550g granulated sugar • 6 pink or black peppercorns • 3 thinnish peeled ginger slices

NEXT MONTH Debora is in a back-to-school state of mind

36 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 4 cloves • 1 cinnamon stick • ½ tsp yellow mustard seeds First, scrub your jar in soapy water, rinse it well and put it in a low oven to stay warm. Cut a small cross in the skin at the base of each peach, then plunge them into boiling water, a few at a time, for 10 seconds. After this, plunge them into a bowl of iced water – the skins should now come away easily. Cut them in half, discard the stones and toss them in the lemon juice. To make the pickling liquid, put everything else bar the peaches in a large stainless steel or enamel pan (no aluminium – it doesn’t get on with vinegar) over a low heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Now raise the heat and

boil for 5 minutes, then lower the heat, add the fruit and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes. You want the peaches to be just soft when you pierce them with a sharp knife. Use a slotted spoon to lower the peaches into the warm jar, then simmer the pickling liquid until it’s slightly syrupy. Strain it over the peaches to cover (or leave the spices in) and seal the jar. They’re good to eat after a few hours, very good after 2 days and best after about 6 weeks. I like them with good bread and brie. Keep chilled once opened. Per serving (150g) 146kcals, 0.1g fat (trace saturated), 1.2g protein, 33.7g carbs (33.7g sugars), trace salt, 2.4g fibre Don’t discard the pickling liquid after eating the peaches – see Use It Up for ideas.

Meals on wheels

Cooking on the go You don’t need to be off exploring in a van this summer to appreciate these away-from-home recipes from seasoned campers Claire Thomson and Matt Williamson. Their ideas need few ingredients, don’t use many pans, are ready in minutes – and, most importantly, taste fantastic. Let’s roll! PHOTOGRAPHS: SAM FOLAN

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RISE AND SHINE One-pan fry-up

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 39

Sausage hotdogs with fried sauerkraut & gherkin ketchup mayonnaise Serves 4 Hands-on time 20-25 min Chef and food writer Claire Thomson was raised in Zimbabwe, then moved to London and now lives in Shropshire. After writing a few books about cooking at home, she decided to test her skills cooking in a van with her camping-loving, New Zealand-born husband Matt Williamson, himself a chef and home economist. Follow Claire on Instagram @5oclockapron

“This is quite possibly the best version of a hotdog you will ever eat, camping or otherwise. Sauerkraut is a perfect ingredient to take with you — it has a good shelf life and delivers instant flavour in a way that few vegetables can.” If refrigeration is an issue, opt for a pasteurised sauerkraut. It’s long-lasting and widely available in supermarkets. Slather leftover DON’T WASTE mayonnaise onto burgers IT and sandwiches or serve it alongside chips.

3-4 minutes should do. 4 Fill each hot dog bun with a small handful of cheese, wrap it in foil and place it on the hot grill or in the embers of the fire. Warm the buns just enough to begin melting the cheese. 5 Remove the buns from the heat, unwrap them and add the sausages on top of the melted cheese. Top with the sauerkraut and gherkin ketchup mayonnaise to serve. Per serving 563kcals, 37.7g fat (12.4g saturated), 22.6g protein, 31.4g carbs (10.3g sugars), 3.1g salt, 3.4g fibre

KNOWHOW

• 4 large outdoor-reared pork sausages • 1 cupful (about 200g) drained sauerkraut • 4 small handfuls (about 120g-150g) sliced or grated hard cheese, such as cheddar • 4 hotdog buns, split open For the gherkin ketchup mayo • 2 pickled gherkins (about 50g), finely chopped • 2 tbsp ketchup • 4 tbsp mayonnaise • ½ small onion or 1 shallot, very finely chopped • 2 tbsp horseradish sauce • 1 tbsp English mustard 1 Cook the sausages over a moderately hot grill for about 10 minutes, turning often, until cooked through. 2 Meanwhile, mix together all the ingredients for the mayonnaise in a bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. 3 In a small frying pan set over a moderate heat (or directly on the grill plate), fry the sauerkraut until it turns brown in places –

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One-pan fry-up Serves 2 Hands-on time 25-30 min You’ll also need Large non-stick or seasoned cast-iron pan

“A good-size large cast-iron pan (or a coated non-stick pan) will make sliding out each portion much easier. Cutting the sausages in half lengthways cuts down the cooking time considerably. Serve with brown sauce or ketchup and crusty bread and butter to mop up.” Switch the sausages and bacon for vegetarian alternatives, if you like. This recipe is easy to make gluten and dairy free (check the sausages and omit the bread and butter, if necessary). EASY SWAPS

• Olive, sunflower or vegetable oil for frying • 2 outdoor-reared pork sausages, halved lengthways (see intro)

• 6 button mushrooms, quartered or thickly sliced • 4 smoked or unsmoked streaky or back bacon rashers • 2 ripe tomatoes, halved and well seasoned • 2 large free-range eggs • Sliced crusty bread, toasted and buttered, and your favourite condiments to serve 1 Heat a frying pan over a high heat and get it really hot while you assemble the ingredients. Add a spot of oil to the pan and put in the sausages, cut-side down. Cook until browned, then flip them over and cook the other side – depending on their size, about 2 minutes on each side should do. Tip them out onto a plate. 2 Add a spot more oil to the pan and add the mushrooms. Cook for about 5 minutes until any liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are cooked through. Season with salt and pepper as they cook. Put the mushrooms to one side with the sausages. 3 Wipe out the pan with a bit of kitchen paper, then add the bacon and halved tomatoes (cut-side down) to the pan. Cook for a few minutes, flipping the bacon over halfway through, until it’s crisp and golden. You don’t need to turn the tomatoes. Return the sausages to the pan and distribute them evenly. 4 Make 2 gaps for the eggs among the ingredients and turn the heat down to low-medium. Crack an egg into each gap. Season with a pinch of salt and a good grind of black pepper, then cook the eggs to your liking – anywhere from 2-5 minutes. 5 Remove the pan from the heat and slide each portion onto a plate. Serve with sliced crusty bread, toasted and buttered, and your favourite condiments. Per serving 465kcals, 37g fat (11.2g saturated), 28.2g protein, 4.3g carbs (3.4g sugars), 2.3g salt, 1.3g fibre →

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Sausage hotdogs with fried sauerkraut & gherkin ketchup mayonnaise

“Cooking over fire is primal. The fire is a source of heat, warmth to sit beside and light to illuminate” Pork and pineapple skewers Serves 4 Hands-on time 30 min, plus marinating You’ll also need Metal or wooden skewers (see intro)

“Grilling the pineapple along with the marinated pork is transformative. This is the best sort of grilling or barbecuing — effortless and very, very tasty. Peaches or apricots would make brilliant alternatives to the pineapple. If you’re using wooden skewers, soak them in a little water for 30 minutes before threading.” For a vegetarian option, use halloumi in place of the pork – it will work well with the other flavours. EASY SWAPS

• 1 tbsp soft light brown sugar or runny honey • 1 tsp chilli powder (chipotle would be ideal) • ½ tsp ground cumin • 4 tbsp olive oil • ½ tsp salt, plus a pinch • ½ tsp black pepper • 500-600g pork tenderloin or fillet, cut into 2-3cm pieces • 1 red onion, ½ cut into 4 wedges, ½ very thinly sliced • Kettleful freshly boiled water • 2 limes, halved • ½-1 ripe pineapple, depending on size, cut lengthways into wedges, core removed but skin and stem left intact • 4 large tortillas to serve • Your favourite hot sauce to serve 42 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

1 Heat/light a barbecue or set up a griddle pan on a camping stove.In a large bowl, combine the brown sugar or honey, chilli powder, cumin, half the olive oil and the salt and pepper. Add the pork and the onion wedges and mix well. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes, or longer if you’re able to refrigerate it. 2 Put the onion slices in a heatproof bowl and pour over boiling water to cover them. Drain, then add a big pinch of salt along with the juice of half a lime. Transfer to a small bowl and put to one side until ready to serve. 3 Toss the pineapple in the remaining oil, then thread the pork and onion onto the skewers. Grill/griddle the kebabs along with the pineapple wedges, turning often, for 8-12 minutes or until the pork is cooked through to your liking and nicely caramelised. The pineapple can come off the grill/griddle a little earlier than the pork if you like, but it too likes a little bit of char, which turns the flesh extra juicy and flavoursome. 4 Remove the skewers from the grill/griddle. Let the pork rest for a couple of minutes while you remove the skin from the pineapple and chop up the flesh. Squeeze the juice from the remaining lime halves over the pork, then remove the pork and the onion from the skewers, dividing the cooked pieces equally among the tortillas with the chopped grilled pineapple and pickled onion. Add some hot sauce to the mixture in the tortillas and serve.

Per serving 509kcals, 22.8g fat (5.8g saturated), 32.1g protein, 41.4g carbs (17.2g sugars), 1.5g salt, 4.9g fibre VEGGIE RECIPE

Peppers, aubergines, onions and courgettes cooked in foil with feta Serves 4 Hands-on time 45 min You’ll also need 4 large squares of heavy duty foil

“Ratatouille… sort of. Better still, it’s like the Spanish dish escalivada, which is traditionally cooked in the embers of the fire from the night before. Chilli flakes, good olive oil and some crusty bread to serve with it wouldn’t go amiss.”

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Peppers, aubergines, onions and courgettes cooked in foil with feta

Pork and pineapple skewers

Any leftovers will keep, covered in the fridge, for 1-2 days. Serve at room temperature or gently reheat in a low oven to warm through. Depending on your KNOW cooking method, the HOW parcels may take more or less time – start checking after about 25 minutes. DON’T WASTE IT

• 4 courgettes (about 400g), sliced into 1cm half moons • 2 red peppers, quartered and deseeded • 2 onions, very thinly sliced • 1 large aubergine, halved lengthways, sliced into 1cm half moons • 4 glugs olive oil, plus 2 tbsp and extra to serve (optional) • 4 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced

• 400g tin chopped tomatoes • 1 tsp dried oregano • 200g feta, crumbled, to serve 1 Heat the grill or barbecue until hot, or use the red-hot embers of a campfire. Working with one type of vegetable at a time, toss the prepared veg in a glug of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. With 4 squares of heavy duty foil (or use a double layer of standard foil), separately wrap up each type of chopped vegetable – the courgettes, peppers, onions and aubergine – into a loose-fitting but well-sealed parcel. 2 Place the parcels directly onto a low-moderate heat source – in the embers or at the edges of a grill or barbecue – and cook for 25-30 minutes until the

vegetables are completely tender. The aubergine should need the longest to cook (you may need an extra 10 minutes, depending on the temperature). 3 Meanwhile, cook the garlic with the 2 tbsp olive oil in a large pan over a moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and oregano and continue to cook for 10-15 minutes until rich and thick. Season to taste with salt and plenty of black pepper. 4 When the vegetables are all cooked, unwrap the parcels, tip them into the hot tomato sauce and mix well, crumbling over the feta and adding a slick more olive oil to serve, if you like. Per serving 354kcals, 24.9g fat (9g saturated), 12.6g protein, 16.4g carbs (14.8g sugars), 1.3g salt, 7.3g fibre →

Peppermint teabag hot chocolate Makes 4 big cups Hands-on time 5 min • 4 cupfuls (about 1 litre) whole milk, or use oat milk or UHT • 4 tbsp drinking chocolate • 4 peppermint tea bags (rip off the tags)

1 Put the milk, drinking chocolate and tea bags in a small pan over a moderate heat, stirring to combine. Heat until very hot, then remove the tea bags and pour into mugs to serve. Per serving 215kcals, 9.9g fat (6.2g saturated), 9.2g protein, 22.3g carbs (22.1g sugars), 0.4g salt, trace fibre

Stroopwafels with fried banana and dulce de leche Serves 1 Hands-on time 5 min

“Stroopwafels are Dutch biscuits — two thin waffles sandwiched together with caramel. Frying the banana, then loading the caramelised slices onto a stroopwafel with a dollop of dulce de leche… You’ll definitely need a surf or a long walk after that…” Find stroopwafels in larger supermarkets or online at Ocado. Dulce de leche is made from sweetened condensed milk that’s slowly cooked and reduced to give it a toffee-ish, caramel-like flavour and pale brown colour. If you can’t find it, use Carnation Caramel instead. It’s a treat for one, but SCALE you can multiply the IT UP quantities to serve more, frying the bananas in batches. KNOWHOW

WE ASKED: WHAT’S THE MOST ELABORATE THING YOU’VE COOKED WHILE CAMPING? YOU TWEETED:

Recipes taken from Camper Van Cooking by Claire Thomson and Matt Williamson (Quadrille £20)

NEXT MONTH End-of-summer recipes to use up the seasonal bounty 44 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Dhaval Panchal @dpanch_89 Pesto scrambled eggs with tartiflette, camping in France near Fontainebleu Flamenco Nut @flamencobug Paella in the Pyrenees Emily Wright @TheWrightFoodie Slow-cooked lamb neck and charred aubergine to make a bed of babaganoush, at a glampsite in Bedfordshire. Took the lamb necks frozen to slowly defrost over the

weekend, then barbecued them on the Sunday. Put the aubergine straight on the coals and had decanted tahini into a mini pot. Everything else keeps: the lemon, garlic... Kevin Wilkinson @kevin_wilkinson ‘Almost chicken tikka masala’ in Cornwall, left in the capable hands of someone while I popped to the shop. I returned to find the seagulls had stolen it all, straight off the hot charcoal.

• Knob of butter (salted, ideally) • ½ banana, sliced lengthways • 1 or 2 stroopwafels • Big pinch soft light brown sugar • 1 heaped tsp dulce de leche per stroopwafel 1 Melt the butter in a frying pan over a moderate heat. Add the banana slices, cut-side down, with the sugar and cook for about 1½ minutes until the undersides of the bananas are soft and slightly caramelised. Carefully turn over the slices and cook on the other side for another 1½ minutes, then remove from the heat. To serve, add a few banana slices to each stroopwafel with a dollop of dulce de leche. Per serving 354kcals, 9.3g fat (5.5g saturated), 3.3g protein, 63g carbs (50.3g sugars), 0.3g salt, 2.5g fibre

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Thought you couldn’t improve on stroopwafels? Think again

Leftover greens, seeds and cheese tart

Always a winner

Veggıe tarts Who doesn’t love something wrapped in flaky pastry? Upcycle goodies from the veg drawer to make these stunning savoury beauties RECIPES: PHOEBE WOOD. PHOTOGRAPHS: BRETT STEVENS. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS

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Wilted rainbow chard and roast garlic tart

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Leek, almond and tomato galette

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VEGGIE RECIPE

Spelt shortcrust pastry Makes about 750g/enough for 1 galette Make the pastry, wrap well and chill for 1-2 days, or freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge overnight before rolling out and assembling the tart. Spelt is an ancient KNOWvariety of wheat. It adds HOW a slightly nutty quality to baked goods and contains less gluten than modern wheat varieties, giving a shorter (more crumbly) pastry. Buy spelt flour in larger supermarkets and health food stores. MAKE AHEAD

Adding vinegar to the pastry gives it extra flavour and inhibits gluten development, resulting in a flakier, more tender crumb. It also helps prevent the dough going a bit grey – handy if you’re making it ahead of time. Gluten-free pastry is available from larger supermarkets in both block and ready-rolled form. To make your own, search ‘glutenfree nut-free shortcrust pastry’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. • 400g white spelt flour • 1 tsp salt • 200g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes • 4 tbsp cider vinegar • 125ml iced water

VEGGIE RECIPE

Leek, almond and tomato galette Serves 6 Hands-on time 20 min, plus chilling Oven time 1 hour 30 min You’ll also need 2 x large oven trays, 1 lined with foil, 1 lined with compostable baking paper This recipe is great for using up any past-their-best tomatoes – chuck in chopped peppers and courgettes too, if you have them. DON'T WASTE IT

• 5 very ripe medium tomatoes (see Don't Waste It), roughly chopped, plus extra tomatoes, halved or sliced, to serve (optional) • 3 leeks, thinly sliced • ½ bunch woody herbs, such as thyme or rosemary • 80ml extra-virgin olive oil • 1 x quantity spelt or shortcrust pastry (about 750g; see above) or use shop-bought shortcrust

1 Put the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and toss to coat. Using a table knife, roughly cut the butter into the flour, leaving plenty of big pieces of butter visible. 2 Combine the vinegar and iced water in a jug. In 3 batches, add the vinegar/water to the flour mixture, stirring to combine. Turn out onto a clean work surface and gently knead until the dough comes together. Form into a ball, wrap well and chill for 3 hours. Per 100g serving 376kcals, 21.5g fat (13.4g saturated), 5.3g protein, 39.2g carbs (0.5g sugars), 0.6g salt, 2g fibre

• Small bunch basil, small leaves picked, larger ones roughly chopped • 50g roasted almonds, chopped • 50g finely grated parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), plus extra to serve • 2 tbsp capers, drained and roughly chopped • 1 medium free-range egg, lightly beaten 1 Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/ gas 6. Put the tomatoes and leeks on the foil-lined tray and scatter over the herb sprigs. Drizzle over the oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 40 minutes or until the leeks are very tender. Discard the herb stems, transfer the mixture to a colander set over a bowl and set aside to drain and cool, reserving any roasting juices. 2 Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to a 30cm round disc about 3mm thick, then transfer to the paper-lined tray. Mix together the chopped basil, almonds, cheese and → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 49

capers, then scatter over the pastry, leaving a 7cm border. Top with the roasted veg mixture. Fold up the pastry edges to partially enclose the filling, then brush the pastry with beaten egg and bake for 50 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden. Cool slightly. 3 Serve the tart topped with extra tomatoes (if using), the remaining basil leaves and extra cheese. Drizzle with any reserved roasting juices and serve straightaway. Per serving 729kcals, 47.2g fat (21.5g saturated), 15.3g protein, 57.5g carbs (5g sugars), 1.1g salt, 6.5g fibre

VEGGIE RECIPE

Leftover greens, seeds and cheese tart Serves 6 Hands-on time 20 min Oven time 1 hour 5-10 min You’ll also need 22cm loosebottomed tart tin, greased; food processor or blender; iced water This is a great way to use up bags of greens lurking in the back of the fridge. Replace the baby spinach in the filling with rocket, tender baby kale or a combination of what you have to hand. DON’T WASTE IT

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.co.uk

• Plain flour to dust • 400g shortcrust pastry (search shortcrust pastry at delicious magazine.co.uk or use 400g spelt pastry – see p49), chilled • 300g baby spinach leaves • 4 large free-range eggs, lightly beaten • 200g feta, crumbled • Grated zest and juice 1 lemon • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 50g parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), finely grated • 4-5 tbsp mixed seeds (such as sunflower, linseed and pumpkin), toasted and finely chopped or ground, plus extra toasted seeds to serve • 400g firm ricotta • Handful mixed sprouted seeds (such as radish sprouts, mung beansprouts or beansprouts – or use pea shoots) • Large handful rocket leaves 1 Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/ gas 6. Lightly dust your work surface with flour. Roll out the pastry to 3mm thick and use to line the tart tin. Line the pastry with baking paper, then fill with ceramic baking beans/uncooked rice and bake for 25 minutes or until just dry to the touch. Remove the paper and beans/ rice, then bake for 10 minutes more or until sandy to the touch. Take out of the oven and set aside. Turn down the oven to 140°C fan/gas 3. 2 Blanch 250g of the spinach in a pan of boiling water, then refresh in a bowl of iced water. Drain, squeezing out any excess water in a colander, then in a clean tea towel. Whizz the spinach and eggs to a coarse purée in a food processor. Put in a bowl and stir in the feta, lemon zest, garlic, parmesan, finely chopped/ground seeds and 300g of the ricotta. Fold in the remaining 50g spinach. Pour the mixture into the pastry shell, then bake for 25-30 minutes until just set. Set aside to cool. 3 Toss the sprouted seeds,

rocket, extra toasted seeds and remaining 100g ricotta in a bowl with the lemon juice and some salt and black pepper. Scatter over the tart and serve. Per serving 658kcals, 46.7g fat (20.5g saturated), 28.6g protein, 28.9g carbs (2.7g sugars), 1.7g salt, 3.8g fibre VEGGIE RECIPE

Caramelised carrot tart with carrot-top salsa verde Serves 6-8 Hands-on time 30 min, plus 1 hour chilling and cooling Oven time 1 hour 50-55 min You’ll also need 18cm x 25cm tart tin (preferably loosebottomed), lightly greased; food processor or blender; iced water Leftover salsa verde will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for 2-3 days. Use to jazz up salads or burgers, or serve with steak or fish. Leafy carrot tops have a flavour akin to parsley. Use them like a soft herb in other sauces such as pesto or gremolata, or add to stock, soups and stews. You can make the tart in NEXT a round 22-23cm tart TIME tin if you prefer. DON’T WASTE IT

• Plain flour to dust • 400g shortcrust pastry (search shortcrust pastry at deliciousmagazine.co.uk or use 400g spelt pastry – see p49), chilled • Bunch unpeeled mixed baby heirloom carrots with green tops attached • 700g carrots, cut into 3cm pieces • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 1¼ tsp caraway seeds • 4 large free-range eggs • 150g soured cream • Labneh or thick yogurt, dukkah/mixed seeds and pea shoots to serve →

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Caramelised carrot tart with carrot-top salsa verde deliciousmagazine.co.uk 51

For the carrot-top salsa verde • Green tops from a bunch of baby carrots (see Know-how) • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped • 1 tbsp baby capers in vinegar, drained and finely chopped • 4 tbsp red wine vinegar • 125-150ml extra-virgin olive oil

NEXT MONTH Sweet pies

1 Lightly dust your work surface with flour. Roll out the pastry to 3mm thick, then use to line the tart tin. Freeze for 1 hour. 2 Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/ gas 6. Line the pastry with baking paper and fill with ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the pastry is just dry to the touch. Remove the paper and beans/rice, then bake for a further 10 minutes or until golden and sandy to the touch. Set aside. 3 Meanwhile, reserve 2 baby carrots to garnish, then cut off the tops from the remaining baby carrots, wash and reserve. Chop the baby carrots into 3cm pieces. Put in a microwave bowl with the rest of the carrots, then cover and microwave on high for 10 minutes or until slightly tender. (Alternatively, steam in a colander set over a pan of simmering water for 20 minutes.) Drain off any liquid and discard, then put the carrots on an oven tray. Drizzle with the olive oil, scatter with caraway seeds and season with salt. Roast for 40 minutes or until caramelised and tender, then set aside to cool. Turn down the oven to 140°C/gas 3. 4 Whizz the cooled carrots in a food processor to a purée, scraping down the side of bowl. Add the eggs and soured cream, then whizz again to combine. Pour the mixture into the pastry shell, then bake for 40 minutes or until the filling is set. Leave to cool completely. 5 Meanwhile, for the salsa verde, finely chop the reserved baby carrot tops, then combine with all the remaining salsa verde

ingredients in a bowl and season. 6 Using a vegetable peeler, thinly slice the reserved baby carrots into ribbons and put in a bowl of iced water. Drain just before serving. 7 To serve, dollop the labneh/ yogurt over the top of the tart, then scatter with dukkah/seeds, pea shoots, salsa verde and thinly shaved carrot ribbons. Per serving (for 8) 444kcals, 31.4g fat (10.4g saturated), 9g protein, 28.1g carbs (8.9g sugars), 0.6g salt, 6.5g fibre

VEGGIE RECIPE

Wilted rainbow chard and roast garlic tart Serves 8 Hands-on time 20 min, plus chilling Oven time 2 hours You’ll also need 20cm x 30cm baking tin, greased and lined with compostable baking paper overhanging each side by 5cm Switch rainbow chard for regular chard or another leafy green such as spring greens, baby kale or pak choi. EASY SWAPS

• 1 garlic bulb (cloves unpeeled) • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 10 rainbow chard leaves (see Easy Swaps) • 1 x quantity spelt or shortcrust pastry (about 750g; see p49) or use shop-bought shortcrust, chilled • 12 medium free-range eggs • 35g mozzarella from a block, grated (or use ready grated) • 240g ball buffalo mozzarella, roughly torn • 2 tbsp runny honey

• 3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked • Thinly sliced radishes and baby chard/salad leaves to serve (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/ gas 6. Put the garlic on a baking tray and drizzle with 1 tbsp oil. Roast for 45 minutes or until very soft. Cool, then squeeze the flesh from each clove into a small bowl (discard the skins). 2 Meanwhile, add the chard leaves to a large pan of boiling water, then cook for 1-2 minutes until just tender. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Open out and set aside on a plate lined with kitchen paper. 3 Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to 3mm thick, then line the base and sides of the prepared tin. Line the pastry with baking paper and fill with ceramic baking beans/ uncooked rice, then bake for 20 minutes or until it feels just dry. Remove the paper/beans or rice, then bake for 10 minutes more or until golden and sandy to the touch. Remove from the oven and set aside. Turn the oven down to 140ºC fan/gas 3. 4 Whisk the eggs, grated mozzarella and 4 tbsp water in a bowl to combine. Season with salt and mix in the roasted garlic. Put a layer of rainbow chard leaves over the pastry base as though lining it. Pour the egg mixture over the top of the chard, then top with the torn mozzarella and remaining chard leaves. Bake for 45 minutes or until the filling is set with a very slight wobble in the centre. Leave to cool completely. 5 Whisk the honey, thyme and remaining 2 tbsp oil in a small bowl and season. Top the tart with radishes and baby chard if using, then drizzle with the honey dressing to serve. Per serving 637kcals, 40.7g fat (20.9g saturated), 23.7g protein, 42.9g carbs (3.4g sugars), 1.4g salt, 2.5g fibre

Fruity granola pancakes Serves 4 Hands-on time 10 min Oven time 15 min

Flavour by the oatload Give your brunch some crunch with Jordans Cereals and this delectable granola pancake recipe – it’s flipping tasty!

onderfully versatile and a great way to start your day, oats are the gift that keeps on giving – and nobody knows that better than the folk at Jordans Cereals. For almost half a century, Jordans has gone above and beyond to make sure every spoonful of its cereals is a joy to eat – and your breakfast bowl is just the beginning. There are so many ways to enjoy these crunchy oat clusters throughout the day, from indulgent brownies to sumptuous ﬂapjacks. If you’re looking for some ‘oatspiration’, give these granola pancakes a whirl. Made with Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola Raisin & Almond, the baked, honey-glazed oats provide optimum crunch, while the juicy raisins and aromatic almonds offer the perfect balance of sweetness.

Jordans cereals aren’t just a treat for the taste buds, they’re a treat for the planet, too. That’s because they work with farmers who share the same unwavering passion for sustainability and wildlife protection... Bursting with both taste and nature, that’s the Jordans way!

CRUNCHY OAT GRANOLA FRUIT & NUT Made with flavour-packed baked, honey-glazed oats, this exotic granola is enriched with sweetened pineapple, banana, dates, nuts, a glorious mix of sunflower seeds and, best of all, pieces of juicy papaya.

• 100g plain flour • 1 large free-range egg • 300ml whole milk • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 200g Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola Fruit & Nut, plus extra to serve • 2 tsp vegetable oil • 150g strawberries, sliced, to serve • 2 bananas, sliced, to serve • Maple syrup to serve 1 Put the flour, egg, milk and vanilla extract in a large bowl with a pinch of salt. Beat together with a hand whisk to make a smooth batter. Stir in the Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola, breaking up any large clusters, and set aside for 10–15 minutes. 2 Heat a pancake pan or medium-size non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add ½ tsp vegetable oil. Ladle one quarter of the batter into the pan, tilting it so the batter covers the entire surface. Cook for 2–3 minutes to set and brown the base (the top should set too). Flip the pancake over and cook on the other side for 1–2 minutes. Repeat to make another three pancakes. 3 To serve, top each pancake with the sliced fruit, a little more Jordans Crunchy Oat Granola and a drizzle of maple syrup.

For more recipe inspiration, visit jordanscereals.co.u deliciousmagazine.co.uk 53

Introducing...

Your seasonal Sunday roast Roast leg of lamb with lemon and olives and roast garlic sauce Serves 6 Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 1 hour 15-35 min You’ll also need Small food processor (or pestle and mortar); large roasting tin

CHEFFY TIP

DON’T WASTE IT

Fry the capers in a little oil to crisp them up before scattering over the lamb. Store any cooled leftover lamb in a sealed container in the fridge for 2-3 days.

• 230g pitted green olives, plus extra olives, halved, to serve – we used nocellara • 8-10 anchovy fillets in oil, drained • 2 garlic bulbs, cloves separated and 8 cloves peeled • 4 tbsp lemon juice • 125ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tbsp extra • Small bunch flatleaf parsley, plus extra, chopped, to serve • 2.2kg-2.5kg British leg of lamb, bone-in • 2 unwaxed lemons, quartered • 375ml good-quality beef or lamb stock • 200g green beans, trimmed 54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 4 young, pale celery sticks, cut into 6cm batons • 2 large courgettes, halved lengthwise, then cut into wedges • 150g mangetout, trimmed • 150g sugar snap peas, trimmed • 2 tbsp capers in brine (see tip) • Steamed new potatoes to serve 1 Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/gas 6. To make an olive paste, put the olives, anchovies, peeled garlic, lemon juice and 125ml oil in a food processor with the bunch of parsley, stalks and all. Pulse, scraping down the sides, until you get a rough paste. (Alternatively, roughly chop everything, then pound to a paste in a pestle and mortar.) Season with salt and black pepper and set aside. 2 Season the lamb all over. Scatter the lemon quarters and remaining unpeeled garlic cloves in a large roasting tin. Nestle the lamb on top and roast for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven, then spread the olive paste over the top of the lamb to coat. Roast for a further 30-40 minutes or until cooked to your liking. (Add up to an extra 20 minutes for well-done meat.) Transfer the lamb to a large tray, cover with foil and keep warm until ready to serve. 3 Meanwhile, to make the roast garlic sauce, reserve the roasting

tin juices in a jug and skim off almost all the lamb fat. Squeeze the roasted garlic cloves from their skins (reserving 2 cloves) into the juices, along with the lemon quarters (discard the skins). Put in a medium saucepan and add the stock. Put the pan over a high heat and bubble for 8-10 minutes until reduced by a quarter. Taste and season with salt and black pepper, then keep hot until ready to serve. 4 Heat a large pan with the 2 tbsp olive oil over a high heat. Add the green beans, celery, courgettes and the remaining roasted garlic cloves (squeezed from the skins). Cook for 2-3 minutes until the beans are just cooked. Set aside and keep warm. 5 Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan half full of salted water to the boil. Cook the mangetout and sugar snap peas for 2 minutes or until just cooked. Strain, add to the warm bean mixture, then season and toss. 6 Put the cooked lamb on a serving platter with the cooked vegetables. Scatter over the extra olives, capers and parsley and serve with the roasted garlic sauce and steamed potatoes on the side. Per serving 715kcals, 44.5g fat (13.5g saturated), 69.2g protein, 6.9g carbs (4.7g sugars), 2.6g salt, 4.9g fibre

RECIPE: MATT PRESTON. PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS COURT. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS. STYLING: EMMALY STEWART

Lamb is the canny food lover’s choice for roasting at this time of year, as the animals have had time to graze and mature on the sweet grass. Taste the benefits of their green living in this lively recipe, bursting with classic Mediterranean flavours

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NEXT MONTH

Nathan Outlaw’s secret-recipe scallops

Menu of the month

Chetna’s love of food was inspired by her mum’s cooking in Jabalpur, India, where she grew up. She took up baking after moving to the UK and starred in The Great British Bake Off in 2014. Chetna’s 30-minute Indian is her ﬁfth book on Indian cooking.

Chetna’s fast & fabulous Indian feast

Full of flavour but easy to assemble, Chetna Makan’s recipes create a thali-style spread that runs the gamut from sour to sweet. Focus on one or two dishes or whip up a feast to fill your table – it’s a wonderful way to celebrate the tastes and aromas of India

PHOTOGRAPHS: NASSIMA ROTHAKER. FOOD STYLING: EMILY KYDD. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR

56 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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Sour and spicy potatoes (alu chaat) with chutneys

“Chaat is the ultimate Indian street food. This potato version is slightly sour and spicy from my two favourite chutneys. I always have a jar of ginger and chilli chutney in the fridge, as it keeps for about two weeks. The fresh coriander chutney lasts only a few days in the fridge but it takes only minutes to make. Serve the potatoes in a big dish for sharing or in individual bowls.”

VEGGIE RECIPE

Sour and spicy potatoes (alu chaat) with chutneys Serves 4 Hands-on time 25 min (give yourself an extra 10 min if not making the chutneys in advance – see Make Ahead) You’ll also need Blender or food processor Both chutneys can be made in advance. The coriander and peanut chutney will keep for 4-5 days in an airtight container in the fridge. The ginger and chilli chutney will keep for 12-14 days in an airtight container in the fridge. MAKE AHEAD

• 4 potatoes such as desiree (about 1kg), peeled and cut into 2.5cm pieces • 4 tbsp coriander peanut chutney (see below) • 100ml natural yogurt, lightly whisked • Pinch chilli powder • 2 tbsp ginger and chilli chutney (see below; or use a dried chilli chutney such as Kerala Taste, from Ebay) • ¼ tsp chaat masala (see guide on last page of this feature) • 2-3 tbsp fine sev (see guide on last page of this feature) • Handful fresh pomegranate seeds For the coriander peanut chutney • 30g raw, blanched peanuts • 1 small onion, roughly chopped • 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 2 green chillies, roughly chopped • Large bunch fresh coriander (about 40g), leaves picked • Small bunch fresh mint (about 20g), leaves picked • 1 tsp sugar • ½ tsp salt • Juice ½ lime 58 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

For the ginger and chilli chutney • 3 tbsp rapeseed oil • 100g fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced • 10 dried red chillies – we used kashmiri chillies • 80g jaggery, grated (or use dark brown muscovado sugar) • 2 tbsp tamarind paste • 2 tsp white sesame seeds

chaat masala and the sev. Sprinkle over the pomegranate seeds and serve. Per serving 325kcals, 5.6g fat (1.1g saturated), 8.7g protein, 56.7g carbs (9.1g sugars), 0.3g salt, 6.6g fibre

1 For the coriander peanut chutney, heat a frying pan, add the peanuts and toast over a low heat for 1-2 minutes until golden. 2 Transfer the toasted peanuts to a blender or food processor, then add all the remaining ingredients with 5 tbsp water and whizz until smooth. Set aside until ready to use (see Make Ahead). 3 For the ginger and chilli chutney, heat 2 tbsp rapeseed oil in a pan, add the ginger and cook over a low-medium heat for 5 minutes until it starts to change colour. Add the chillies and cook for 1 minute more. 4 Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor and whizz, adding up to 6 tbsp water to form a paste. 5 Return to the pan and add the jaggery, tamarind and a pinch of salt. Cook over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes until the jaggery has dissolved and the mixture starts to bubble up. Pour into a serving bowl and set aside. 6 Heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil in a small pan. Add the sesame seeds and cook over a low heat for 1 minute or until they start to change colour, then immediately sprinkle over the chutney. You can serve this warm, but it’s much better if left to cool first (see Make Ahead). 7 For the alu chaat, put the potato pieces in a pan, cover with water and add 1 tsp salt. Bring to the boil, then cook for 5-7 minutes until cooked through. Drain and cool for 5 minutes. 8 Put the potatoes in a bowl with 2 tbsp of the coriander peanut chutney and mix well. Transfer to a serving bowl, drizzle the yogurt on top, then sprinkle with some salt and the chilli powder. 9 Drizzle the remaining coriander peanut chutney and all the ginger and chilli chutney on top, followed by the

Prepare to the end of step 2 up to 12 hours ahead. Store covered in the fridge until ready to cook. This is flavourful enough to CHETNA’S serve on its own, although it’s TIP also great with my ginger and chilli chutney – see the recipe for sour and spicy potatoes, left.

Masala chicken (masala murg) Serves 4 Hands-on time 20 min

MAKE AHEAD

• 50g gram flour (also known as besan/chickpea flour) • 70ml natural yogurt • ½ tsp black salt (kala namak; see the last page of this feature) • 1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder (or regular chilli powder to taste) • 1 tsp kasuri methi (dried fenugreek leaves; see the last page of this feature) • ½ tsp garam masala • ½ tsp ground cumin • 4 boneless, skinless free-range chicken thighs, cut into 5cm pieces • 3 tbsp sunflower oil 1 Heat a frying pan, add the flour and toast over a low heat for about 2 minutes or until it starts to change colour, stirring constantly. 2 Put the toasted flour in a bowl with the yogurt, salt and spices and mix well. Add the chicken and turn in the mixture to coat well (see Make Ahead). 3 Heat the oil in a pan. Carefully add the coated chicken pieces to the hot oil and cook over a medium to low heat for 8-10 minutes, turning halfway through, until golden and cooked through. Per serving 223kcals, 11.9g fat (2g saturated), 19.8g protein, 8.2g carbs (1.7g sugars), 1g salt, 1.8g fibre For more ways to use fenugreek leaves, see Use It Up. →

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Chicken has never been more moreish

“When I created this dish, I had no idea how it would turn out. But once I’d tasted it I couldn’t stop eating it, and since then I make it a lot when entertaining or cooking for friends. You can also cook it on a hot barbecue or in a hot oven for about 10 minutes. Just make sure to cook extra — it’s devilishly moreish.”

VEGAN RECIPE

Tamarind aubergine curry (imli baigan curry) Serves 4 as part of sharing menu or 2 as a main dish with rice Hands-on time 20 min Simmering time 15-20 min You’ll also need Pestle and mortar

“The fried aubergine picks up on the aniseed notes of the fennel and the sour kick from the tamarind, and the whole combination is just heavenly. Be careful not to taste it too much along the way, as you may have nothing left to eat at the end! Serve it with some rice or paratha, if you like.” Prepare the curry up to 1 day ahead. Store covered in the fridge and reheat gently over a low heat until piping hot to serve. MAKE AHEAD

Tamarind aubergine curry (imli baigan curry)

“I’ve not met anyone who doesn’t enjoy South Indian food, especially dosa. Uttapam is made using dosa batter, but it’s thicker and finished with different toppings. The batter usually takes a day or two to prepare, but this is an instant version you can enjoy in minutes. Serve with coconut chutney or a tomato & tamarind chutney.”

Quick uttapam

• 1 large aubergine, cut into 5-7.5cm long strips • 3-4 tbsp sunflower oil • Pinch asafoetida (see guide overleaf) • 2 onions, thinly sliced • 1 tbsp fennel seeds • 1 tsp chilli powder • 1 tsp ground ginger • 1 tsp sugar • 1 tsp tamarind paste 1 To prepare the aubergine, put it on a plate, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and set aside for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan, add the asafoetida and sizzle for a few seconds. Add the onions and cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes until golden. 2 Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan. Pat the aubergine fingers dry, add them to the hot oil and cook over a high heat for 2 minutes until golden. 3 While the aubergine is cooking, heat a small frying pan, add the fennel seeds and toast for 1 minute, then use a pestle and mortar to crush them. 4 Add the crushed fennel seeds to the onion pan and cook for a minute, then stir in the ground spices. Add the fried aubergine with 200ml water and cook over a low heat for 10 minutes. 5 Stir in the sugar and tamarind and

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cook over a high heat for 5 minutes until the sauce thickens, then serve. Per serving (for 4) 147kcals, 9.6g fat (1.2g saturated), 2.5g protein, 9.9g carbs (8.2g sugars), 0.2g salt, 5.1g fibre VEGGIE RECIPE

Quick uttapam Makes 6 pancakes Hands-on time 20 min You’ll also need Blender or food processor Mix the topping ingredients (except the coriander) up to 1 day ahead. Store covered in the fridge and stir in the coriander when ready to assemble. Double the quantities to SCALE serve a larger (or hungrier!) IT UP crowd.

Pickle-spiced chickpeas (aachari chole)

MAKE AHEAD

• 75g poha (flattened rice; see guide overleaf) • 75g fine semolina • 110ml natural yogurt • ½ tsp salt • Sunflower oil for cooking For the topping • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 tomato, finely chopped • 1 green chilli, finely chopped • Good pinch chilli powder • Handful fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped 1 Soak the poha in 200ml water for 5 minutes until softened. Meanwhile, mix together all the topping ingredients. 2 Drain the soaked poha, put into a blender with the semolina, yogurt and salt and whizz to a smooth batter. 3 Heat a frying pan over a medium heat, add a few drops of oil, then wipe out the pan. Add a ladleful of batter to the pan and use the base of the ladle to spread it into a 13cm circle. Top with one sixth of the topping mixture, then drizzle ½ tsp oil around the edges of the uttapam. Cook for about 2 minutes, then flip and cook for another 2 minutes until golden. Remove from the pan and repeat with the remaining batter and topping mixture. Serve warm.

Per pancake 122kcals, 4.6g fat (0.8g saturated), 3.3g protein, 16.2g carbs (3.4g sugars), 0.5g salt, 1.3g fibre VEGAN RECIPE

Pickle-spiced chickpeas (aachari chole) Serves 4 or 6 as part of a sharing menu Hands-on time 15 min Simmering time 15 min

“I’m a fan of pickling spices, and I like to use them in curries as they lend them layers of flavour. If you have the time, you can use dried chickpeas here — soak them in cold water overnight, then drain and bring to the boil in plenty of fresh water, simmering for an hour or two until soft. Tinned chickpeas are fine for a quicker version. If you can’t find or don’t want to use edible mustard oil, use sunflower oil instead. Serve with flatbreads or rice.” Make the spiced chickpeas up to 1 day ahead and store covered in the fridge. Gently reheat to serve. MAKE AHEAD

• 4 tbsp edible mustard oil or sunflower oil (see intro) • 2 tsp fennel seeds

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

2 tsp nigella seeds 1 tsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp fenugreek seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 4 dried red chillies 2 onions, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, grated 1 tsp salt 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp amchur (mango powder; see guide overleaf) 1 tsp garam masala 1 tsp sugar 400g tin chopped tomatoes 2 x 400g tins chickpeas, drained and rinsed (see intro)

1 Heat the oil in a pan. Once it’s hot and smoky, add all the spice seeds and the chillies, then cook over a medium heat for a few seconds until they’re all sizzling. 2 Add the onions and cook over a medium heat for 8-10 minutes until golden, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. 3 Stir in all the remaining ingredients with 200ml water, then bring to the boil. Cover and cook over a low-medium heat for 15 minutes, then serve. Per serving 347kcals, 17g fat (1.8g saturated), 13.2g protein, 30.3g carbs (9.9g sugars), 1.4g salt, 9.8g fibre → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 61

Rose & pistachio cake with cardamom toffee sauce (pista gulab) Serves 8 Hands-on time 10 min, plus cooling Oven time 20 min You’ll also need 20cm x 30cm cake tin, lined with compostable baking paper Useful to have Electric mixer (hand or stand)

“This subtle rose-flavoured cake, made with ground pistachios, is light and airy, and acts as the perfect sponge for absorbing the aromatic toffee sauce.” Both the cake and sauce can be made in advance. Store the cake in an airtight container at room temperature for 2-3 days, or wrap well and freeze for up to 1 month. Store the sauce covered in the fridge for up to 5 days – reheat in a small pan over a low heat to warm through. MAKE AHEAD

• 150g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing • 150g golden caster sugar • 150g self-raising flour • 50g ground pistachios • 3 medium free-range eggs • ½ tsp rosewater • ½ tsp baking powder • 2 tbsp whole milk For the toffee sauce • 50g salted butter

Chetna’s cake is great with a cup of chai

• 50g dark muscovado sugar • 150ml double cream • ½ tsp ground cardamom To decorate • Handful pistachio kernels, roughly chopped • Handful edible dried rose petals 1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/gas 4. Put the 150g butter and caster sugar in a large bowl and beat together with an electric mixer (or by hand with a wooden spoon) for about a minute until pale and creamy. Add the remaining cake ingredients and beat for 2 minutes until fluffy. 2 Transfer the cake batter to the prepared tin and bake for 20 minutes or until a skewer pushed into the centre comes out clean. 3 Meanwhile, to make the toffee sauce, heat the butter and muscovado sugar together in a pan over a medium heat until the sugar has melted, then add the cream and ground cardamom and bring to the boil. Let it bubble for a few seconds, then take the pan off the heat. 4 Once the cake is done, let it cool for 5 minutes, then turn out, remove the lining paper and put on a large serving tray. Pour the hot sauce on top, sprinkle with the chopped pistachios and rose petals and serve. Per serving 526kcals, 37.4g fat (20.6g saturated), 7.3g protein, 39.7g carbs (25.5g sugars), 0.5g salt, 0.8g fibre

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A cook’s guide to Indian ingredients Many larger supermarkets now stock a great range of authentic ingredients, as do shops specialising in Indian, general Asian or Middle Eastern cuisine. It’s easy to source speciality ingredients online too – try Ebay, seelans.com, veenas.com or redrickshaw.com. Black salt (kala namak) A kiln-fired rock salt with a savoury, slightly sulphurous quality. Black salt is a key ingredient in many chaat masala recipes, where it provides a distinctive umami note. Substitute Himalayan rock salt or fine sea salt. Chaat masala A spice blend widely use in South Asian (especially Indian) cuisine, with a flavour that’s sweet, spicy, pungent, savoury and sour all at once. Its characteristic tang adds brightness to many classic dishes such as alu chaat, dahi puri and bhel puri. Check the ingredients to make sure it’s gluten free if you need it to be. Sev Small, crunchy, deep-fried noodles made from chickpea flour. Often eaten in Bombay mix, mixed with spices and dried fruit or tossed through more substantial dishes to add crunch. Check the ingredients to make sure it’s gluten free if you need it to be. Asafoetida A powder made from the resin of a giant fennel plant, it has a pungent aroma that mellows when cooked to provide depth to curries, chutneys and pickles. It’s a common substitute for garlic and onion in Ayurvedic cooking. Poha (or powa) Flattened rice flakes made by parboiling and rolling rice grains. Poha comes in a variety of thicknesses – for uttapam, look for a very thin variety for the speediest soaking time. Amchur (dried mango powder) It’s a star ingredient in chaat masala, providing much of its distinctive tang. Amchur provides a sweet and sour punch wherever it’s added. If you can’t find it, substitute tamarind or lemon juice. Kasuri methi (fenugreek leaves) Commonly sold dried and crushed, these have a slightly sweet and nutty flavour that’s a little like a cross between celery and maple syrup. Finding a suitable substitute is tricky, but they’re versatile – see this month’s Use It Up.

Recipes taken from Chetna’s 30-Minute Indian (£20 Mitchell Beazley), out now. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 63

Raspberry, lime and coconut self-saucing pudding

The lastminute one

e o r m a o w h r

3 easy

puds You don’t need any cheffy gadgets for these treats – add them to your repertoire for holiday cooking or whenever you fancy a quick dessert

64 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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Peach and passion fruit crumble traybake

The doubleduty one

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPHS: HANNAH HUGHES. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

Raspberry, lime & coconut self-saucing pudding Serves 4 Hands-on time 10 min Oven time 18-22 min You’ll also need 4 oven-safe ramekins or bowls (about 300ml capacity), greased; roasting tin large enough to hold them Useful to have Electric hand mixer Make the pudding in one large dish and bake for an additional 15 minutes. Switch the lime and EASY SWAPS raspberries for lemon and blackberries (or other seasonal berries). Replace the butter and milk with plant-based alternatives to make the recipe dairy free. NEXT TIME

• 60g butter, softened, plus extra to grease • 200g caster sugar • 3 medium free-range eggs, separated • Grated zest and juice 3 limes • 125g self-raising flour • 4 tbsp desiccated coconut, plus extra toasted to serve • 300ml whole milk • 200g fresh raspberries 1 Heat the oven to 180ºC fan/ gas 6. Beat together the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well between additions. Beat in most of the lime zest and all the juice, then gently mix in the flour, coconut and milk. 2 In another clean bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks, then gently fold into the batter in 2 additions until just combined.

3 Divide the raspberries among the prepared ramekins/bowls, then top with the pudding mixture. Pour boiling water into the roasting tin so it comes halfway up the sides of the ramekins/bowls. Bake for 18-22 minutes until golden. Sprinkle with extra toasted coconut and the remaining lime zest to serve. Per serving 643kcals, 29g fat (18.9g saturated), 12.9g protein, 79.8g carbs (56.3g sugars), 0.8g salt, 5.3g fibre

Hazelnut tiramisu cheesecake Serves 10-12 Hands-on time 15 min, plus chilling You’ll also need Glass or ceramic dish (roughly 20cm x 30cm) Useful to have Mini food processor; electric hand mixer Make the coffee syrup up to 2 days ahead. Store in the fridge until ready to serve. Most of the cheesecake can be assembled up to 1 day ahead – add the syrup and toppings just before serving. If you prefer, make the NEXT cheesecake in glasses TIME for individual servings, or use screw-top glass jars for a portable pud. Store the coffee syrup separately until ready to serve and keep it all chilled. Replace the hazelnut EASY SWAPS liqueur with a coffee liqueur (such as Kahlúa or Tia Maria) or leave out the alcohol and use hazelnut or coffee extract. For a zesty alternative, mix in 1-2 tsp finely grated orange zest instead. MAKE AHEAD

• 500g mascarpone • 340g full-fat cream cheese – we used Philadelphia • 50g icing sugar, sifted • 4 tbsp hazelnut liqueur, such as Frangelico (see Easy Swaps) • 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste or 2 tsp vanilla extract

• 100g white chocolate, plus extra grated chocolate to serve • 500ml double cream • 50g toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped, to serve For the crumb base • 1 pack (260-300g) dark chocolate digestives • 100g toasted hazelnuts • 2 tsp instant espresso coffee powder • 20g salted butter, melted For the coffee syrup • 2 tbsp instant espresso coffee powder • 100g caster sugar • 1-2 tbsp hazelnut liqueur or coffee liqueur (optional) 1 For the coffee syrup, combine the coffee, sugar and 200ml water in a small pan over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar and coffee have dissolved. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 minutes until thickened and syrupy. Set aside to cool, then stir in the liqueur, if using, and chill (see Make Ahead). 2 For the crumb base, put the biscuits, hazelnuts and coffee powder in a large food bag and bash with a rolling pin (or pulse to fine crumbs in a mini food processor). Stir in the melted butter or add to the processor and whizz again to combine. Tip the mix into the serving dish and press into an even layer. Chill. 3 For the cheesecake layer, beat the mascarpone, cream cheese and icing sugar in a large mixing bowl until smooth. Add the liqueur and vanilla and beat to combine. Dollop the cheesecake mix onto the base and smooth into an even layer. Chill. 4 Gently melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water (don’t let the base touch the water). While the chocolate melts, whip the cream to soft peaks (the tips →

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The grown-up one

Hazelnut tiramisu cheesecake

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NEXT MONTH A wonderfully ruffled, flaky custardy pie

flop over when you take out the beaters/whisk). Mix 2 tbsp of the whipped cream into the melted chocolate, then fold the chocolate mixture into the rest of the cream, whipping the cream a little more if needed so it just holds its shape. Pile the cream on top of the cheesecake, creating soft waves. Cover and chill until ready to serve. 5 To serve, decorate the top with grated white chocolate and chopped hazelnuts. Drizzle over the coffee syrup and scoop into bowls to serve with extra syrup on the side. Per serving 772kcals, 64.6g fat (36.1g saturated), 8.4g protein, 36.4g carbs (28.2g sugars), 0.6g salt, 1.4g fibre

Peach and passion fruit crumble traybake Serves 12 Hands-on time 15 min, plus cooling Oven time 40-45 min You’ll also need 20cm x 30cm oven tray or 22cm round cake tin, greased and lined with compostable baking paper The bake will keep in an airtight tin at room temperature for 1-2 days. Serve it warm as a pudding or cold for an afternoon treat. Switch the peaches EASY SWAPS for nectarines or plums, and the passion fruit curd for a tangy lemon curd. MAKE AHEAD

• 400g plain flour • 150g golden caster sugar • 100g ground almonds • 1 tsp baking powder • 150g cold unsalted butter, cubed • 3 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten • Grated zest 1 lemon • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 200g passion fruit curd – we used The Cherry Tree Passion Fruit Curd

• 4 peaches, stones removed, sliced into 6-8 wedges • Custard or vanilla ice cream to serve (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 170ºC fan/ gas 5. Put the flour, sugar, ground almonds and baking powder in a large mixing bowl with a pinch of salt. Add the cold butter, then rub the ingredients together with your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. 2 Whisk together the eggs, lemon zest and vanilla, then stir into the crumble mixture until just combined. Press two thirds of the mixture into the prepared tin in an even layer. Spread the passion fruit curd over the base, then scatter over the peaches. 3 Dot the remaining crumble mixture over the filling, then bake for 40-45 minutes until golden brown. Cool for 20 minutes (or longer), then cut into squares and serve warm with a drizzle of custard or scoop of vanilla ice cream, if you like. Per serving 398kcals, 17.6g fat (7.7g saturated), 7.9g protein, 50.8g carbs (24.1g sugars), 0.2g salt, 2.1g fibre

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Your staycation checklist

Don’t forget the veg peeler The self-catering break is booked, the paddleboard’s strapped to the car roof and (let’s hope) the weather is being kind. All that’s left is to make sure you’re equipped for the challenge of holiday cooking. Here’s a handy guide to what to pack, book and cook for your journey into the culinary unknown

When it comes to packing the right gear for a staycation kitchen, it can be hard to know what, and how much, to take. Check the confirmation email or website a week before you go. There’s usually a list of key kitchen equipment – microwave, fridge/ freezer – and sometimes extra details on pots and pans and basic utensils. The amount of gear varies wildly (we’ve stayed in places with just a hob and mini fridge and others with a fish kettle and enough platters to cater a wedding). But, as a rule of thumb, cottages and apartments have more equipment than caravans and mobile homes.

WORDS: KATY SALTER. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK/GETTY

Check what you’ll need

confident cooking.

The best foods to take with you Take a few essentials, but don’t decant your larder (a staycation isn’t the time to master beef rendang from scratch). A few stock cubes, key spices and a garlic bulb will provide the building blocks for easy meals. Packing a box of staples also cuts down food waste (if you have any in-date fresh food you can’t take with you, try donating it on the OLIO app). Check the pre-arrival info or with your host to see if there are any pantry basics included. Many provide salt and pepper, tea bags, coffee, sugar and olive oil. Fill in any gaps with these utility players: • Garlic bulb (one should see you through the week – unless you’re attempting chicken with 40 cloves of garlic) • Stock cubes (chicken or veggie) • Tea bags (if not included in your stay) • Coffee. Make sure it matches the kit on offer, which could be a cafetière, pod machine, or – the horror – nothing at all • Little pots of salt, ground pepper and caster sugar

• A few pots of your favourite dried herbs and spices • Olive oil (one you’re happy to use as a cooking oil and for dressing salads) • Bag of pasta • Snacks for ravenous kids • Any sturdy fruit and veg you don’t want to waste that will survive the journey: apples, potatoes, onions...

Arrange a supermarket delivery or hit the local farm shop (see right). A note on delivery etiquette: book your slot for several hours after you plan to arrive. Don’t leave your Ocado driver on the cottage doorstep with melting ice cream because you got stuck on the M3. Base your meals around summer produce and ready-to-eat ingredients such as cooked salmon fillets, crabmeat, cured meats, halloumi, a carton of gazpacho, new potatoes and good bread. Avoid lots of dry ingredients and condiments you’ll have to throw out or cart home (focus on using up the ones you brought with you).

Get it fresh from the farm Farm shops are generally fun places to visit and can be a holiday activity in their own right. But if you don’t have time/energy, many are getting in on the delivery act. Have a box of regional produce delivered direct to your cottage door (research and book before you go, as the good ones will be in demand from locals and visitors). Try one of these farm shops from the holiday hotspots: • The Cornish Food Box Company, Cornwall (thecornish foodboxcompany.co.uk) • Bubbleton Farm Shop, Pembrokeshire (facebook.com/ BubbletonFarmShop) • Walsingham Farms Shop, north Norfolk (walsingham.co) • Jurassic Coast Farm Shop, Dorset (jurassiccoast farmshop.co.uk)

The best kitchen equipment to pack The amount you bring will be guided by the inventory at your destination (and the size of your car boot), but the following will all be useful: • Foil and kitchen paper (the later can double up as picnic napkins) • Extra tea towels • Washing-up liquid • Beeswax wraps (subscribe this month and get a free set – see p72) • A sharp knife or two. Holiday home knives are always blunt and awful. Wrap them well in thick tea towels and pack somewhere safe • A cool bag or box for beach days • Lunchboxes, lidded tubs or tiffin boxes (for storing leftovers and picnics) • Reusable coffee cups and water bottles

• Bamboo picnic plates for days out and in case you need extra plates • A cafetière – swaddle it in tea towels or cloths. Or, if you have one, pack a stovetop espresso maker – they’re nigh-on indestructible • Dishwasher tablets and washing machine tabs. Most holiday homes don’t supply enough to see you through the week, and taking a few extra saves you having to order (and cart home) a boxful • Biodegradable bin bags • Eco-friendly cleaning cloths

10 GREAT STAYCATION RECIPES Search for ‘staycation food guide’ at deliciousmagazine. co.uk for more tips and our 10 best easy recipes to make on your UK holiday.

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Tartine with Président camembert, fresh figs, balsamic and thyme Serves 4 Hands-on time 5 min Oven time 10 min

Bon fromage! The French are famous for enjoying the Good Life, but it’s not down to geography, it’s a state of mind – and you can savour it too with Président

hether it’s a long al fresco lunch with friends or an intimate early evening picnic, eating during the summer months is a chance to indulge in life’s simple pleasures. And with Président, it couldn’t be easier to enjoy more of those precious Good Life moments. Indeed, this beloved French cheese and butter brand has long dedicated itself to helping people to slow down and enjoy the moment.

With a spectacular array of cheeses, including the famously creamy camembert and brie, as well as wonderfully rich butters and creams, Président can help make every day worth savouring. Warmer days call for light dishes, and this tempting tartine couldn’t be more perfect for a summer lunch. Made with juicy ﬁgs and beautifully bold Président camembert, welcome to your new summer go-to recipe... Bon appétit!

• ½ large baguette, sliced diagonally into 8 x 1cm pieces • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar • 1 tbsp runny honey • 20g Président unsalted butter • 1 garlic clove, halved • 250g Président camembert, sliced into 16 pieces • 4 figs, each sliced into 4 • A few thyme sprigs, leaves picked 1 Heat the grill to high and toast the baguette slices on both sides until lightly golden. Meanwhile, add the balsamic vinegar and honey to a small pan and bring to the boil. Bubble briefly until you achieve a syrupy consistency, then set aside. 2 In a separate pan, melt the Président unsalted butter and brush it over one side of the toasted baguette slices before rubbing them with the cut sides of the garlic clove. 3 Top each baguette slice with 2 slices of Président camembert and 2 fig slices. Drizzle over the balsamic and honey mixture, season with a little salt and black pepper, then scatter over the thyme leaves. Serve immediately.

For more Good Life inspiration, visit president.uk.com

Healthy. Nourishing. Balanced.

Nutritious meals. Fresh flavours.

Light & luscious.

PHOTOGRAPH: HANNAH HUGHES

Fad-free eating. Essential updates. Sensible advice.

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Salads with benefits How much more satisfying is it to sit down to a meal that looks amazing on the plate, tastes wonderful AND is packed with good-for-you nutrients? Here are your top five for summer 2021

RECIPES: DOMINIC SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHS: NIGEL LOUGH. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS. STYLING: EMMALY STEWART

Cabbage and carrot slaw with avocado dressing

76 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

health.

The 5:2 recipe Barbecued corn & chorizo tabbouleh with pomegranate

Garden salad with basil & buttermilk ranch dressing

Prawn, cucumber and beans with chilli & lime dressing

Smoked trout with rocket, fennel and macadamia nuts

(10.1g saturated), 23.1g protein, 26.3g carbs (23.4g sugars), 2.6g salt, 7.5g fibre VEGGIE RECIPE

Serves 3-4 as a main Hands-on time 15 min Useful to have Mandoline slicer Macadamia nuts are high in fibre and healthy fats. Oily fish like trout and salmon are an excellent source of omega-3s. Fennel and grapes are both high in vitamin C. Make your own aïoli (search for KNOWa recipe at deliciousmagazine. HOW co.uk) or add grated garlic to shop-bought mayonnaise. Check your aioli/mayo is dairy free if it needs to be. WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?

• 70g rocket • 2 large chicory (white, red or both), trimmed, leaves separated • 2 baby fennel bulbs (or 1 large), very finely sliced or shaved on a mandoline • 2 inner stalks celery, sliced, plus a handful of leaves, chopped • 2 small green apples, sliced into matchsticks • 350g seedless mixed grapes, halved • 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced or shaved on a mandoline • 100g roasted macadamias, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve • 2 sustainable hot-smoked sea trout or salmon fillets, flaked, skin and any bones discarded For the tarragon aïoli • ½ bunch tarragon, finely chopped (about 3 tbsp) • Zest and juice 1 lemon • 200g aïoli (see Know-how) 1 For the tarragon aïoli, put all the ingredients in a medium bowl with 1½ tbsp warm water. Season with salt and whisk to combine, then set aside. 2 In a large bowl, combine the rocket, chicory, fennel, celery, celery leaves, apples, grapes, onion, nuts and most of the fish with half the tarragon aïoli. Season and toss gently to combine. Put on a platter, then scatter over the extra nuts and remaining fish. Drizzle over the remaining aïoli and serve. Per serving (for 4) 779kcals, 62.9g fat 78 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Garden salad with basil & buttermilk ranch dressing Serves 4 as a 5:2 main (or serve as a side dish) Hands-on time 10 min, plus cooling Oven time 60-70 min You’ll also need Large oven tray, greased and lined with compostable baking paper Useful to have Mandoline slicer Tomatoes are a rich source of the antioxidant lycopene and vitamins A, C and E. Courgettes are a good source of potassium and soluble fibre, and also low in calories. Add grilled chicken and/or SCALE cooked butter beans for a IT UP healthy helping of protein. WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?

• 750g cherry tomatoes (on the vine), halved • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 2 medium courgettes (about 300g), thinly sliced into rounds • 1 large butterhead or other soft green lettuce, leaves separated • 80g freshly podded peas (or use frozen peas, defrosted) • 6 radishes, very finely sliced or shaved on a mandoline • 2 banana shallots, very finely sliced or shaved on a mandoline • Bunch basil, leaves picked For the basil & buttermilk dressing • 5 tbsp Hellmann’s Lighter Than Light mayonnaise • 4 tbsp buttermilk • 4 tbsp low-fat yogurt • 1½ tbsp lemon juice • 1 tbsp dijon mustard • ½ tsp garlic granules • ½ tsp onion powder • Handful basil, leaves picked 1 Heat the oven to 120°C fan/gas 1. Put the tomatoes in a bowl with the olive oil and some salt, then toss well. Transfer to the prepared tray, cut-side

up, and roast for 1 hour or until slightly caramelised. Remove the tray from the oven and leave to cool completely. 2 For the dressing, whisk together all the ingredients. Season and set aside. 3 Put the courgettes, lettuce, peas, radishes, shallots and basil in a large bowl with most of the dressing. Season to taste, toss to combine, then transfer to a large platter and arrange the tomatoes on top. Drizzle over the remaining dressing and serve. Per serving 239kcals, 14.5g fat (2.3g saturated), 8g protein, 16.3g carbs (12.2g sugars), 0.6g salt, 5.5g fibre

Barbecued corn & chorizo tabbouleh with pomegranate Serves 4 as a main Hands-on time 30 min, plus cooling Simmering time 12 min You’ll also need Barbecue or griddle pan Bulgur wheat is an excellent source of dietary fibre, which is crucial for a healthy digestive system, heart and blood sugar. Pomegranate is a fantastic source of vitamin C, helping to maintain a healthy immune system, skin, bones and teeth. WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?

• 200g bulgur wheat • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 125g chorizo sausage, cut into rough 1cm pieces • 4 large corn on the cob, outer husks removed • 1 small bunch each mint, flatleaf parsley and dill, leaves picked and finely chopped • 2 vine tomatoes, seeds removed, finely chopped • 1 pomegranate, seeds and juice reserved separately For the dressing • 5 tbsp pomegranate juice (make up the difference with lemon juice if you don’t get enough from the fruit) • 2½ tbsp red wine vinegar • 2½ tbsp pomegranate molasses • 3 garlic cloves, finely grated • 1 tbsp caster sugar • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

health.

1 Fill a medium saucepan three quarters full of salted water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Add the bulgur wheat, reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 10-12 minutes until cooked. Rinse and drain under cold running water, then transfer to a large bowl and set aside. 2 Heat a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until browned and the fat starts to render. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain. 3 Heat a barbecue or large griddle pan over a high heat. Add the corn cobs and cook, turning frequently, for 6-8 minutes until cooked through and charred. Set aside to cool, then use a sharp knife to slice off the kernels. 4 Meanwhile, put all the ingredients for the dressing in a small bowl with some salt and whisk to combine. Set aside. 5 Add the chopped herbs, tomatoes and pomegranate seeds to the bulgur wheat and toss together. Add the cooled chorizo and corn, then drizzle over half the dressing and toss again. Transfer to a large platter, drizzle over the remaining dressing and serve. Per serving 608kcals, 29.7g fat (6.5g saturated), 17.9g protein, 63.4g carbs (17.5g sugars), 1.2g salt, 8g fibre

Cabbage and carrot slaw with avocado dressing Serves 4 as a main Hands-on time 15 min You’ll also need Blender or small food processor Useful to have Mandoline slicer; julienne peeler

WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?

NEXT TIME

EASY SWAPS

Avocados contain vitamin E, folate, monounsaturated fats and lots of potassium. Add flaked oily fish, sliced grilled steak or marinated tofu for a good helping of protein. Switch the anchovies for 1 tsp white miso or olive tapenade to make this recipe vegetarian.

• 350g savoy cabbage, shredded • 350g red cabbage, shredded • 5 spring onions, thinly sliced

• 3 large carrots, shredded with a julienne peeler or a knife • 300g mangetout, cut into matchsticks • 250g freshly podded edamame (soybeans) or peas – or use frozen, cooked and cooled • 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds For the avocado green dressing • 100g mayo (we like avocado oil mayo) • 100g soured cream or natural yogurt • 1 avocado, roughly chopped • ½ bunch each dill, flatleaf parsley and tarragon (or chervil), stems and leaves finely chopped • 4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and finely chopped (see Easy Swaps) • 2 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste 1 For the dressing, whizz all the ingredients in a blender/food processor until combined. Season and set aside. 2 Put the shredded cabbages, spring onions, carrots, mangetout and edamame in a large bowl with half the dressing. Season to taste and toss well. Transfer to a large platter or divide among serving plates, then drizzle over the remaining dressing, scatter over some sesame seeds and serve. Per serving 545kcals, 37.7g fat (7.3g saturated), 16.8g protein, 26g carbs (19.7g sugars), 0.7g salt, 17.5g fibre

Prawn, cucumber and beans with chilli & lime dressing Serves 4 as a main Hands-on time 20 min You’ll also need Blender or small food processor Useful to have Mandoline slicer Prawns and lobster are naturally low in fat, high in protein and a great source of selenium, an antioxidant beneficial for a healthy immune system and thyroid health. Green mango and papaya are both good for digestive health and full of vitamins A, C and E and minerals. Find green mango and papaya KNOW- in large supermarkets or use a HOW firm, underripe mango instead. WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?

Switch the cashews for roasted peanuts or a mix of seeds (such as sunflower, pumpkin and flaxseed). EASY SWAPS

• 250g pack dried rice vermicelli, soaked according to the pack instructions • 200g baby green beans, blanched and halved lengthwise • 2 banana shallots, thinly sliced or shaved on a mandoline • 4 baby cucumbers, thinly sliced • 2 long red chillies, seeds removed, thinly sliced (optional) • 3 spring onions, thinly sliced • 75g roasted cashew nuts, chopped, plus extra to serve • 1 small green mango or papaya (see Know-how), peeled, flesh shredded with a julienne peeler or a knife • ½ bunch each coriander, mint and Thai basil, leaves picked (about 4 tbsp each) • 250g cooked sustainable king prawns, peeled and deveined, or 2 lobster tails, chopped For the chilli & lime dressing • 100g chilli paste to taste – we used Lee Kum Kee Chiu Chow Chilli Oil (available from larger supermarkets) • 100ml lime juice • 3cm piece fresh ginger (about 15g), finely grated • 2½ tbsp fish sauce • 1½ tbsp sesame oil 1 Put all the ingredients for the dressing in a blender with 4 tbsp water, adding chilli oil to taste. Whizz until combined. Add more water if necessary to give a spoonable consistency. 2 Put the vermicelli noodles in a large bowl with half the dressing. Toss to combine, then add the beans, shallots, cucumbers, chillies (if using), spring onions, cashew nuts, green mango, herbs and prawns to the bowl. Season with some salt and toss to combine. Transfer to a large platter and scatter over extra cashews, then drizzle with the remaining dressing to serve. Per serving 553kcals, 19.4g fat (3.4g saturated), 26.8g protein, 63.7g carbs (15.3g sugars), 4.4g salt, 8.6g fibre

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health.

Myth-buster so ls, fbre a r e cont s min d an xidants ai n tio

Glugging liquid chlorophyll – it’s what makes plants green – has taken social media by storm. A slimmer waistline and clear skin are two of the touted benefits. But dietitians say eat spinach, kale or rocket instead – you’ll get the chlorophyll, PLUS vitamins, minerals, fibre and more.

Health matters

, A and C

a nd

DON’T FORGET IODINE

GETTY IMAGES

The British Dietetics Association (BDA) is concerned that some people, particularly women of child-bearing age, aren’t consuming enough iodine. Iodine is crucial for thyroid hormone production, as well as foetal brain development. Our most reliable sources of iodine are cow’s milk, eggs and fish, which means that vegans and those avoiding dairy are most at risk. People who don’t eat iodine-rich foods should seek out fortified plant milks: adults require 150mcg per day. Don’t exceed the requirement, though. Too much iodine is harmful.

The truth about carbs

mi ns K

News, nuggets of knowledge and advice you can trust. By Sue Quinn

h Kale is hig

chickpeas

A Mediterranean staple, chickpeas are a nutritious food to have handy in the storecupboard. Just a cup (160g) of cooked chickpeas contains almost half the recommended daily intake of fibre and roughly a third of the protein. Whizz into smoothies for extra creaminess, roast with oil and spices for salads, or mash with olive oil for a luscious spread for toast.

ita v in

Milk it! Regularly drinking milk doesn’t raise cholesterol levels and might be linked to a reduced risk of heart disease, according to a new study. Researchers at the University of Reading now want to find out whether it’s the fat in dairy products or an unknown ‘milk factor’ that’s responsible for the benefits.

The UK’s Scientific Advisory Committee on Nutrition has confirmed that a shortterm lower carbohydrate diet helps people living with type 2 diabetes and obesity. People on lower-carb diets (37% carbs) lost more weight than those on higher-carb diets (50% carbs) in the first three months, but not after. They concluded there wasn’t enough evidence to recommend a lower-carb diet for more than six months. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 81

is honey healthy ?

The natural golden syrup is widely touted as a nutritious alternative to table sugar with a range of supposed health benefits, from easing coughs to reducing the risk of heart disease. But, asks Sue Quinn, is honey really better for you than table sugar?

health.

oney’s production process is a miraculous thing. Honeybees collect nectar (a sugary liquid) from flowering plants. As they carry it back to the hive, the bees pass droplets of nectar to worker bees, who chew on it for a while, then regurgitate it into the honeycomb cells. They then fan the cells with their wings, which evaporates the water and reduces the nectar to a thick, syrupy honey. Finally, the bees seal the wax cells of the honeycomb, where the honey can be stored indefinitely until needed. A more natural product is hard to find – but is it naturally good for you? Once extracted, the honey is processed in different ways. Although the term has a strict legal definition, raw honey has been minimally heated and processed – just strained to remove impurities such as beeswax or bits of dead bees. As a result, it’s often more flavourful and contains more active ingredients than regular honey. Regular or commercial honeys are more highly processed, heated to higher temperatures than raw honey and sometimes ultra-filtered. But Francis Ratnieks, professor of apiculture at the University of Sussex, says that, in nutritional terms, there’s very little difference between raw and regular honey. “All honey is basically around 82% fructose and glucose [sugars] and 18% water, with very small amounts of other compounds that give it its colour and other properties,” he says. “Basically, when you eat honey, you’re eating sugar.” Honey contains small amounts of antioxidants (chemicals that help prevent/repair cell damage), vitamins, minerals and enzymes. The question is, are these present in sufficient quantities to deliver any real benefits to human health?

happens when honey is applied to wounds. Manuka honey is made with nectar from a rare bush native to New Zealand and has particularly strong antimicrobial powers – hence why it often carries a hefty price tag. Believe it or not, Harrods was selling a particular manuka honey earlier this year for £2,595 per 230g pot.) Manuka honey is graded according to its ‘unique manuka factor’ (UMF). The higher the UMF, the higher the concentration of methylglyoxal (MGO), the active antibacterial chemical. But claims honey can help treat conditions such as gastroenteritis and respiratory infections and improve heart health are unproven. “Studies have been conducted, inconclusively, on other potential applications for honey,” says Holly Gabriel, a registered nutritionist with campaign group Action on Sugar. She says there’s some evidence honey can soothe coughs in children under 15. “Public Health England and the National Institute for Health and Care Excellence found there was enough evidence,

Honey produces hydrogen peroxide — an anti-bacterial compound — when it comes into contact with moisture, and that’s what happens when honey is applied to wounds

Antibacterial properties Honey has been used since ancient times as an ointment for healing wounds, and modern medicine has recently recognised how effective it can be. Honey is now used to treat ulcers, infected wounds and burns, particularly where conventional remedies have failed. Why is honey such a good healer? Its acidity and high concentration of sugars help kill infectious bacteria. Honey also produces hydrogen peroxide – an anti-bacterial compound – when it comes into contact with moisture, and that’s what

although limited, to suggest honey reduced symptoms of acute cough in children and young people,” Gabriel says. She adds that infants under the age of one should avoid honey due to the risk of botulism. “But other than occasional use to soothe acute coughs, there are no approved health and nutrition claims for honey.” Some people swear that eating local honey can reduce hay fever symptoms because it desensitises your allergic reaction to pollen in the air. “Unfortunately, there’s no scientiﬁc proof of this,” says registered nutritionist Dr Laura Wyness. “It’s a bit of a myth that just keeps being communicated.”

Is honey nutritious? Honey does contain numerous vitamins and minerals, including potassium, calcium, sodium, → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 83

health.

magnesium and vitamin C. “But only in very small amounts,” says Dr Wyness. “If you’re looking for nutritional benefits, there are many other foods to choose from,” agrees Professor Ratnieks. “The only thing in honey that’s not negligible is sugar.” Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory chemicals that protect cells against damage are also found in honey,

calories, at 64 per tablespoon. Honey does have a slightly lower glycaemic index than table sugar, which means it doesn’t raise blood sugar levels as quickly after it’s consumed. “But there’s no real benefit from swapping sugar for honey, as the difference is minimal,” Dr Wyness says. “Enjoy the flavour of honey, but limit the amount.” Registered nutritionist Holly Gabriel says it’s important to remember that honey counts as a ‘free’ or added sugar, the kind most of us need to cut back on. She suggests watching your intake in the same way you would table sugar, and keeping an eye out for honey in food and drink products. “Honey and syrups are free sugars just like table sugar, and need to be reduced in our diets,” she says.

’re looking for nutritional benefits, there are many other foods to choose from. The only thing in honey that’s not negligible is sugar”

Is it healthier than sugar?

Honey is slightly sweeter than table sugar so you may find you need less of it, but it’s still high in

If you’re going to indulge in honey, make it a good one. Sarah Wyndham Lewis is a professional honey sommelier, working worldwide with honey producers, chefs and bartenders. Here’s her pick of the finest...

84 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

The bottom line

Honey does contain nutrients, but not in sufficient quantities to benefit our health, and many are degraded when exposed to heat. Honey’s antibacterial properties may be useful to treat wounds, and it’s an approved treatment to soothe coughs in children aged one to 15. There’s no robust scientific evidence that it’s better for us than table sugar, however, so enjoy honey in small amounts for its flavour – and not as a health food.

1. Cotswold Summer Honey A sunny, golden honey from traditionally managed farmland where the bees forage among hedgerows and woodland. honeymakers.co.uk 2. Natural Raw Honey, Beaulieu River A soft-set honey made by bees feeding from wildflowers, exotic garden flowers (Exbury Garden) and riverbank forage sources. thenoblebee.com 3. Raw Portuguese Arbutus Bitter Honey This classic dark honey is famous for an intense bitterness that opens out into warm notes of coffee, sweet caramel and spice. wildabouthoney.co.uk 4. Bermondsey Street Bees Metro Royal Victoria Dock London Cultivated by the company I co-founded (it featured in the April 2021 issue of delicious.), this has vivacious wild herbals and florals, made by our hives in lush, re-wilded areas of London’s Docklands. provenancehub.com/bermondseystreetbees 5. Raw Lithuanian Buckwheat Honey A silky dark honey, with a slightly challenging aroma but an array of wonderful malty, fruity flavours and some smokiness. fromfieldandflower.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

and they tend to be higher in darker varieties such as manuka and buckwheat. But there’s no scientific proof they benefit human health. What’s more, heat destroys some of the active compounds, so there are no health benefits from using honey in cooking. One small study has suggested consuming honey rather than table sugar may reduce the risk factors for heart disease. Study participants consumed more than 70g of honey daily for a month, however – the equivalent of almost 60g of sugar, which is almost twice the recommended daily intake.

Make. Life. Simple.

Easy food for busy days. Family friendly recipes.

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS

Cake in the tin. Eating well. Using up everything.

››

Take one pan… Busy at home or away and self-catering? Either way, you’ll welcome these brilliant ideas: all are light on equipment, ingredients – and washing-up RECIPES: AMANDA JAMES. PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS

Gnocchi with bacon, peas, spinach and mozzarella Serves 4 Hands-on time 30 min You’ll also need Large deep-sided frying/sauté pan (25-28cm) Switch out the spinach for other leafy greens like chard, watercress or rocket. Leave out the bacon to make it veggie. Add a generous splash of dry FLAVOUR BOOST white wine or cider vinegar to the pan before adding the stock, then let it reduce a little before adding the rest of the ingredients. EASY SWAPS

• 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed

• 200g bacon lardons • 400g gnocchi • 200ml low-salt vegetable stock • 100g frozen peas • 150g crème fraîche (use reduced-fat if you prefer) • 100g young spinach • Handful basil or oregano, roughly chopped • 125g mozzarella 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a large pan set over a low-medium heat and cook the onion for 5 minutes until beginning to soften. Add the garlic and cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove the onion/garlic onto a plate and set aside. 2 Turn up the heat to medium and add the remaining oil to the pan. Add the

bacon and fry for 5 minutes until crisp, then add the gnocchi and cook for 4-5 minutes more until starting to get some colour. 3 Return the onion and garlic to the pan along with the vegetable stock and peas. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 5-7 minutes until the gnocchi are tender. 4 Stir in the crème fraîche and warm through over the heat until the sauce thickens slightly. Add the spinach and basil/oregano, stir until the leaves wilt, then dot over the mozzarella and season well with salt and black pepper. Serve with crusty bread and a big green salad on the side, if you like. Per serving 572kcals, 40.4g fat (20.2g saturated), 13g protein,36.5g carbs (4g sugars), 1.9g salt, 5.4g fibre

simple.

One-pan roasted paprika chicken thighs with aïoli and rosemary roasties Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 5 min Oven time 40 min You’ll also need Large oven tray (at least 20cm x 30cm) Double the recipe to serve a family. Cook the potatoes on a separate tray to make sure everything crisps up nicely. Try using lamb chops or pork EASY SWAPS sausages rather than the chicken thighs. SCALE IT UP

• 4 tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp smoked paprika • 2 tsp garlic granules

• 4 skinless boneless free-range chicken thighs • 400g maris piper or other floury potatoes, sliced • 3-4 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and chopped, plus extra for serving • 1 large red pepper, seeds removed, cut into quarters • 1 large red onion, cut into 6 wedges • Dairy-free/vegan aïoli to serve (optional) – we used Leon Garlic Aioli 1 Heat the oven to 200°C fan/gas 7. In a large bowl, mix together 2 tbsp of the olive oil, the paprika and the garlic granules with plenty of salt and black pepper. Add the chicken thighs, turning to coat, then leave to one side for the mixture to marinate.

2 Add 1 tbsp olive oil to a large oven tray and put in the oven for 5 minutes to heat up. Remove the tray from the oven and add the potatoes and rosemary, drizzle over the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil, then put back in the oven to roast for 20 minutes, tossing the potatoes after 10 minutes. 3 After 20 minutes, add the red pepper, onion and marinated chicken to the tray. Return the tray to the oven, then roast for 20 minutes more until the chicken is cooked through and the veg are tender and slightly charred. Serve with aïoli, if you like, and some extra rosemary sprinkled over. Per serving (for 2) 639kcals, 28.2g fat (4.7g saturated), 39g protein, 48.8g carbs (11.7g sugars), 0.4g salt, 12.4g fibre → deliciousmagazine.co.uk 87

Garlicky sausage, butter bean and tomato bake Serves 4 Hands-on time 30-35 min You’ll also need Large hob-safe casserole (about 30cm) with a lid Substitute the pork sausages with veggie or chicken alternatives – they won’t need to cook for as long in step 1. EASY SWAPS

• • • • • •

4 tbsp olive oil 8 good quality pork sausages 2 red onions, sliced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 400g tin chopped tomatoes with herbs and garlic • Pinch sugar (optional) • 400g tin butter beans

• 100g cherry tomatoes (optional) • 50g fresh breadcrumbs • 20g mixed herbs, leaves picked and chopped – we used rosemary, thyme and sage • 20g parmesan, finely grated 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a hob-safe casserole over a medium heat. Add the sausages and cook for 5-8 minutes, turning, until browned. Set aside. 2 Add another 1 tbsp oil and the onions to the casserole. Cover and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes. Stir in 2 of the crushed garlic cloves and cook for another few minutes. 3 Add the red wine vinegar, chopped tomatoes, 200ml water and sugar (if you like) to the casserole. Bring to a simmer, then cook on a medium-high

heat for 5 minutes until thickened and slightly reduced. Stir in the butter beans, cherry tomatoes (if using) and sausages, then reduce the heat slightly and cook for 10-15 minutes or until the sausages are cooked through. 4 Heat the grill to medium. Combine the breadcrumbs, herbs and parmesan in a bowl with the remaining oil and crushed garlic, with a good pinch of salt. Sprinkle the mixture over the sausage casserole, then put under the grill for 5 minutes until crisp and golden. (Alternatively, warm the oil in a separate frying pan, add the breadcrumbs and stir-fry until golden and toasted, then stir in the remaining ingredients and sprinkle over the bake.) Per serving 512kcals, 28.3g fat (8.5g saturated), 24.2g protein, 36.4g carbs (12.5g sugars), 1.5g salt, 7.2g fibre

simple.

Raid the fridge for veg

VEGAN RECIPE

One-pan pesto spaghetti with lemon and courgettes Serves 2 Hands-on time 10 min Simmering time 15 min You’ll also need Medium saucepan or deep-sided sauté pan with a lid Make this gluten free by using gluten-free pasta and stock. Substitute any vegetables from the fridge or freezer that you need to use up. This recipe serves 2. Add extra SCALE veg to stretch it to 3, or IT UP double the recipe to serve 4. EASY SWAPS

• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve • 1 small onion, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• 1 medium courgette, thinly sliced • 400ml vegetable stock • 150g spaghetti • 50g broad beans, podded • 50g runner beans, cut into 2-3cm pieces • 1 lemon, zest and juice of ½, the rest cut into wedges • 50g green olives • 130g vegan basil pesto – we used Saclà • Parmesan-style vegan cheese and basil leaves to serve (optional) 1 Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large pan over a medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook for 5 minutes until softening. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute. 2 Add the remaining 1 tbsp oil to the pan, then stir in the courgette and fry for 5 minutes until the edges

are charred and the courgette slices are lightly coloured. 3 Pour in the stock, stirring to combine, then bring to a simmer and add the spaghetti, broad beans, runner beans and lemon wedges. Simmer on a medium-high heat for 10 minutes or until the pasta is tender (al denté). 4 Once the pasta has cooked and the stock has reduced, add the green olives and pesto, tossing everything together gently to combine. Serve with the lemon zest and juice, an extra drizzle of olive oil and, if you like, vegan parmesan and basil leaves. Per serving 799kcals, 47.5g fat (6.8g saturated), 17.5g protein, 69.7g carbs (9.5g sugars), 1.6g salt, 11.5g fibre →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 89

simple.

NEXT MONTH 5-ingredient pasta recipes

Naturally gluten-free

VEGGIE RECIPE

Aubergine pilaf with apricots and almonds Serves 4 Hands-on time 15 min Simmering time 35 min You’ll also need Shallow hob-safe casserole with lid (about 30cm)

KNOWHOW

Check the rice and stock are gluten free if you need them to be.

• 300g basmati rice • 2 large aubergines, chopped into large chunks • 2-3 tbsp ras el hanout spice mix • 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 large onion, finely chopped • 1 tsp garam masala 90 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 1 tsp turmeric • 800ml vegetable stock • 1 large cinnamon stick • 100g dried apricots, roughly chopped • Large handful almonds, toasted in a dry frying pan, to serve • Pomegranate seeds, coriander and natural yogurt to serve 1 Rinse the rice, then soak it in cold water for 5 minutes. Rinse again, then leave to one side. 2 In a large bowl, mix the aubergine with the ras el hanout, some salt and pepper, and 1 tbsp of the olive oil. 3 Heat a hob-safe casserole over a medium-high heat. Add 1 tbsp of the oil followed by the aubergine, then cook for 10 minutes, turning now and then, until softened. Take the

aubergine out of the pan and set aside. 4 Add the onion and remaining oil to the pan and fry for 5 minutes until turning golden. Add the garam masala and turmeric and cook for 1-2 minutes. 5 Add the rice to the pan and stir over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes to coat. Gradually pour the stock into the pan, add the cinnamon stick and simmer for 10-15 minutes until all the liquid has been absorbed. Put a lid on the pan and leave to steam for 10 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed. 6 Gently stir in the apricots, then top with the spiced aubergine, toasted almonds, pomegranate seeds and coriander. Serve with a dollop of yogurt. Per serving 477kcals, 11.8g fat (1.8g saturated), 10.7g protein, 77.6g carbs (16.8g sugars), 0.1g salt, 8.7g fibre

simple.

Easy lunch

Pea and mint fritters with feta sauce These are full of summery flavours and the accompaniments add crunch, with the added bonus of tangy feta sauce and a zingy squeeze of lemon VEGGIE RECIPE

Serves 4-6 (makes 10-12 fritters) Hands-on time 30 min You’ll also need Food processor or blender Cook the fritters up to 24 hours ahead. When cool, cover and keep in the fridge. Warm in a pan over a low heat – or in a low oven for 10-15 minutes – to serve. Top with 1 or 2 poached SCALE eggs per person for a more IT UP filling brunch.

RECIPE: MATT MORAN. PHOTOGRAPH: BRETT STEVENS. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS

MAKE AHEAD

• 1kg frozen peas, defrosted • 6 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten • 280g greek yogurt • 200g feta, crumbled • Large handful mint leaves, coarsely chopped, plus extra leaves to serve • 4 large spring onions, green part thinly sliced, bulb sliced into rings • Finely grated zest ½ lemon and juice of 1, plus wedges to serve • 150g self-raising flour • 5-6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle • 200g fine green beans (or asparagus when in season), trimmed • Pea shoots (optional) to serve

2 tbsp olive oil in a food processor or blender and whizz until very smooth to make a sauce. Season and set aside. 3 Working in batches, heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a large non-stick pan over a low-medium heat. Add 2-3 large spoonfuls of batter per fritter into the pan in separate mounds, then cook for 4 minutes or until golden. Turn and cook for 3 minutes more. Transfer the cooked fritters to a baking tray/plate and keep warm in the oven while you finish cooking the rest, using more oil as needed (see Make Ahead). 4 Combine the beans/asparagus and

remaining peas in a large bowl, cover with boiling water and leave to stand for 3 minutes. Drain, refresh under cold running water (if using asparagus, slice the spears in half lengthways). 5 Arrange the fritters on a serving platter, then top with the beans/ asparagus, peas, reserved spring onions, pea shoots (if using) and extra mint. Serve with lemon wedges and the feta sauce alongside for drizzling. Per serving (for 6) 553kcals, 26.8g fat (10.2g saturated), 32.1g protein, 40.4g carbs (7.1g sugars), 1.3g salt, 10.7g fibre

NEXT MONTH

Halloumi burgers

1 Put 750g of the peas and all the eggs in a food processor and pulse until the peas are roughly chopped. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in 180g of the yogurt, half the feta, the chopped mint, green parts of the spring onions, lemon zest and juice. Season well with black pepper and a little salt, then stir in the flour to combine. Set aside for 5 minutes to rest. 2 Put the remaining feta, yogurt and deliciousmagazine.co.uk 91

Budget recipe Cheese and potato pasties VEGGIE RECIPE

Makes 4-6 pasties Hands-on time 30 min, plus chilling and cooling Oven time 25-30 min You’ll also need Oven tray lined with compostable baking paper Make the pastry, then wrap well and chill for 1-2 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost at room temperature, then continue with the recipe from step 2. Open-freeze uncooked pasties on an oven tray, then freeze in bags for up to 3 months. Cook from frozen, adding 10-15 minutes to the baking time. Wrap cooked pasties and keep in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat in a low oven for 10-15 minutes until piping hot. The pastry needs to be KNOWchilled and the filling HOW fully cooled before you begin to assemble the pasties. MAKE AHEAD

WANT TO MAKE THE CRUNCHY PICKLE IN THE PIC? Activate the QR code to see the recipe

NEXT MONTH Halloumi burgers

• 40g unsalted butter • 1 medium onion, finely chopped • 250g waxy potato, chopped into 1cm dice • 200g mature cheddar or other strong, sharp cheese • 2 tbsp double cream (optional) • Pickle to serve (optional)

92 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

For the pastry • 300g plain flour, plus extra to dust • 1 tsp salt • 200g cold unsalted butter, cubed • 2 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten, plus 1 extra egg, beaten, to glaze • 40ml milk • 2 tsp white wine or cider vinegar 1 To make the pastry, put the flour and salt in a large bowl. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Use a table knife to mix in the 2 eggs, milk and vinegar. Using your hands, work the mixture until it comes together to form a soft dough. (Or put the flour, butter and salt in the bowl of a food processor and whizz until the mix looks like fine crumbs. With the motor running, add the eggs, milk and vinegar and stop whizzing as soon as it comes together into a rough dough.) Shape the dough into a ball on a flour-dusted work surface, flatten slightly into a disc, then cover and set aside in the fridge for at least 30 minutes to rest (see Make Ahead). 2 For the filling, melt the butter in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook, covered, for 10-15 minutes

until softened. Stir often and add a little water if the onion starts to look dry. Add the potato and cook for 5-10 minutes more, then set aside to cool. 3 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Divide the pastry into 4-6 equal pieces. Roll out one piece on a lightly floured surface to form a circle 4-5mm thick (keep the rest wrapped in the fridge – see Know-how). 4 Stir the cheese and cream (if using) into the cooled potato mixture, then season with salt and lots of black pepper. Divide the filling into 6 portions, then pile 1 portion onto one half of the pastry, leaving a 3cm border. Brush the border with beaten egg, then fold the other half over and press to enclose the filling. Crimp the pastry edges using your fingers, then put on the lined oven tray. Repeat with the rest of the pastry and filling. Brush the pasties with the beaten egg, then pierce with a fork so steam can escape. Bake for 25-30 minutes until golden (see Make Ahead). 5 Serve the pasties warm from the oven, with pickle on the side (see right) if you like. Per pasty (for 6) 689kcals, 47.4g fat (29g saturated), 17.3g protein, 46.9g carbs (2.4g sugars), 2.3g salt, 3.1g fibre

RECIPE: THEA EVERETT. PICKLE RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

Pop a batch of these satisfying pastries in the freezer and lunches are as easy as pie (almost)

simple.

Only 82p per pasty

Cook once, eat twice Make up a batch of beef patties, freeze half if you like, then choose your own adventure with our ultimate burger recipes RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: LAUREN MILLER

Master burger recipe Makes 8 burgers Hands on time 20 min, plus 1 hour chilling You’ll also need Griddle pan, heavy based frying pan or barbecue To freeze the raw burgers, stack them in a freezer-safe container between layers of compostable baking paper. Freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge (3-4 hours or overnight), then follow step 2. For a juicy burger with great KNOWtexture, grind your own beef HOW or ask the butcher to do it for you. Chuck steak or a combination of chuck, shortrib and brisket works well – and go for a coarse grind. MAKE AHEAD

94 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 1kg good quality British beef mince, about 20% fat (see Know-how) • 1 small onion, finely chopped • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce • 2 tsp dijon mustard • Small handful fresh flatleaf parsley, finely chopped • 1 large dill pickle/gherkin, finely chopped • 1 large free-range egg yolk • Vegetable oil for brushing 1 Put all the ingredients except the vegetable oil in a large bowl, season with plenty of salt and ground black pepper, then scrunch everything together with your hands to mix well. Using wet hands, shape the mixture

into 8 equal patties. Arrange on oven tray(s), cover, then chill for about 1 hour (see Make Ahead). 2 Heat the pan over a high heat or prepare the barbecue for high direct heat. Brush both sides of the burgers with oil, then cook for 3-4 minutes on each side or until well browned and cooked to your liking. Serve in buns with your choice of condiments and garnishes, or try one of our topping ideas on the opposite page. Per patty 299kcals, 21.1g fat (8.9g saturated), 25.3g protein, 1.6g carbs (1.3g sugars), 0.4g salt, 0.6g fibre

simple.

3 great ways to serve

Tex-mex style cheese burger

Serves 4 In a bowl, combine ½ shredded white cabbage, 2 coarsely grated carrots, 1 small finely chopped red onion, a large bunch of roughly chopped coriander, the grated zest and juice of 1 lime, 3 tbsp mayo and some salt and pepper. In a small saucepan, mix together 250ml evaporated milk and 1 tbsp cornflour. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, then stir in 200g grated cheddar, 1 tsp chilli powder, ½ tsp garlic powder and ½ tsp onion powder. Spread a dollop of tomato ketchup on the bottom half of 4 toasted burger buns. Pile on the slaw, then top each one with a cooked burger patty. Pour over 4-5 tbsp of the cheese sauce per burger and finish with a few pickled jalapeños and the burger bun tops. Per serving 956kcals, 58.3g fat (25.6g saturated), 51.2g protein, 53g carbs (19.8g sugars), 3.7g salt, 7.1g fibre

You’ll also need ½ quantity master burger recipe (4 patties)

Korean-inspired kimchi and fried egg burger

Serves 4 Mix 4 tbsp mayonnaise and 2 tbsp gochujang chilli paste (or sriracha). Spread the chilli mayo over the bottom halves of 4 toasted burger buns, then top with a cooked burger patty and 50g drained kimchi. Fry 4 medium free-range eggs in sunflower oil until crisp, then slide on top. Finish with a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds, thinly sliced spring onions and the burger bun tops. Per serving 896kcals, 60.7g fat (15.2g saturated), 40.3g protein, 46g carbs (11.1g sugars), 2.7g salt, 2.6g fibre For more ways to use gochujang chilli paste, see Use It Up

California-style burger

Serves 4 In a small bowl, mash 2 ripe avocados with a large bunch of chopped coriander, the juice of 1 lime and a pinch of chilli flakes, then season. Spread the bottom halves of 4 toasted burger buns with 1 tbsp mayonnaise each. Top each with a good dollop of the smashed avocado, 2-3 lettuce leaves, 2 thick tomato slices and a cooked burger patty. Pile on the rest of the avocado, crumble 20g feta on each and top with some pickled (see below) or plain sliced red onion, then add the burger bun tops. Per serving 779kcals, 54.7g fat (16.5g saturated), 36.1g protein, 32.6g carbs (4.6g sugars), 1.8g salt, 6g fibre

QUICK-PICKLED ONIONS The rich meaty burgers benefit from a sharp, acidic garnish such as slaw, kimchi or these pickled onions: thinly slice 1-2 red onions, then put in a glass bowl or jug. Sprinkle over 1 tsp salt and 1 tsp sugar, then add enough lemon or lime juice to cover and leave for 15-20 minutes. Drain, then serve.

NEXT MONTH Beef shortrib stew with cornbread

Use it up Chilled herb and greens soup Need to cool down on a hot day? Take those wilted salad leaves and herbs languishing at the back of the fridge and five minutes later – huzzah! A beautiful soup. While it’s chilling, you can chill VEGAN RECIPE

Serves 1 Hands-on time 5 min, plus chilling time You’ll also need Blender or food processor Use any combination of soft herbs you like or have to hand – dill, coriander, chervil, oregano and parsley all work well. This is a great way to use up a DON’T WASTE bruised or slightly over-ripe avocado IT (or leftover guacamole), as it will add body and richness. Or add a slice or two of stale bread and a glug of olive oil instead. Soak the bread in water briefly before adding with the other ingredients.

• 100g leafy green salad leaves – spinach, watercress, lambs’ lettuce... • Large handful basil, roughly chopped, plus small leaves to serve • Small handful mint leaves, chopped • 2 spring onions, roughly chopped • 1/2 avocado, stone and skin removed, roughly chopped (see Don’t Waste It) • 1/2 medium cucumber, roughly chopped • 1/2 green chilli, deseeded and chopped (optional) • Juice 1 lemon, plus extra to taste • 1 small garlic clove, crushed • Cherry tomatoes (quartered), olives, skinned broad beans, toasted seeds and olive oil to serve

NEXT MONTH Goat’s cheese and red wine tart

1 Put all the ingredients (except the toppings to serve) in a blender or food processor with a dash of cold water. Whizz until smooth, then season with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. Adjust the consistency with a little more cold water if needed, then whizz again. Chill until ready to serve. 2 Serve the soup topped with the tomatoes, olives, broad beans, seeds, a few extra basil leaves, a drizzle of good olive oil and plenty of black pepper. Per serving 232kcals, 17.1g fat (3.7g saturated), 8g protein, 8g carbs (4.5g sugars), 0.1g salt, 6.9g fibre

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: LAUREN MILLER

EASY SWAPS

simple.

...and more ideas for leftovers Simple savvy ways to use up the open, partly used bits and bobs from some of the recipes in this issue Bomba rice

• PUCKERY MICHELADA

• SPICED-UP SUNDAY ROAST

(from Cornish queen scallop rice p24) The short grains and starchiness of this Spanish rice make it a great alternative to Italian varieties for a creamy risotto with good bite. Use the same quantity of bomba rice in your favourite risotto recipe.

(MEXICAN-STYLE BEER COCKTAIL) Mix 2 tbsp lime juice, 1 tbsp strained pickle brine and 2 tsp hot sauce such as Tabasco in a tall glass. Fill with ice, then top up with cold lager/ pale ale. Garnish with extra lime. If beer isn’t for you, give your next bloody mary the same treatment.

• BAKED RICE PUDDING

• TENDER & JUICY PORK CHOPS

Mix 60g soft butter, 2 tbsp crushed fenugreek leaves and a big pinch of chilli flakes. Season a whole freerange chicken with salt, inside and out, then rub all over with the spicy butter. Stuff the cavity with a halved lemon, then roast breast-side up in a 180°C fan/gas 6 oven until cooked through and the juices run clear.

Heat the oven to 130°C fan/gas 2. Mix 600ml whole milk, 200ml single cream, 80g bomba rice, 40g caster sugar, 1 cinnamon stick and the finely grated zest of 1 lemon. Pour the mixture into a greased 1 litre ovenproof dish and bake for about 2 hours until the rice is tender and the top is caramelised.

Put thick-cut pork chops in a single layer in a glass or ceramic baking dish with a few herb sprigs (rosemary, dill, sage or oregano) and any other aromatics you fancy. Pour over enough pickling liquid to cover the chops, then cover and set aside in the fridge to marinate for at least 3 hours (and up to 12 hours).

• BULKED-UP SOUP

• ...AND THE REST

Add extra body to minestrone or chicken soup. Allow 100g bomba rice for every litre of liquid for a creamy finish that’s not too thick. Throw in the rind from a parmesan wedge for bonus thrift points (take out before serving).

Add a dash of pickle brine wherever you’d normally use vinegar, either in addition to or instead of other acids – in vinaigrettes and salad dressings, soups and stews, barbecue sauces and marinades for meat and fish.

• BOMBA RISOTTO

Dried fenugreek leaves Pickling brine

(from Chetna’s masala chicken p58)

(from Debora’s pickled peaches p36)

• SMOKY TOMATO SAUCE

• MORE PICKLES!

Heat a glug of oil in a saucepan. Add 3 crushed garlic cloves and cook for 1 minute until fragrant. Stir in 2 tins of chopped tomatoes, 1 tbsp each crushed fenugreek leaves and smoked paprika, 2 tsp each red wine vinegar and light brown sugar, and about 150ml water. Cook gently for 20-30 minutes until thick and saucy. Season with salt, pepper and a little more vinegar and sugar to taste.

Strain the brine through a fine sieve (or a coffee filter) and bring to the boil, adding more spices if you like. Pack clean and sterilised jars with fresh seasonal fruit, then pour over the pickling brine to cover. Use hot brine for firm-skinned fruit such as cherries, plums or grapes, or allow the liquid to cool for use with delicate berries or chunks of melon.

• MASALA SCRAMBLED EGGS Fry 2 finely chopped spring onions over a low heat with a knob of butter until softened. Stir in ½ tsp crushed fenugreek leaves, ¼ tsp garam masala and a good pinch each turmeric and chilli flakes. Add 2-3 beaten eggs, season with salt, then cook, gently moving the eggs around the pan, until just scrambled.

Gochujang chilli paste (from kimchi burger p95)

• SPICY SMASHED CUCUMBERS Bash 2 cucumbers with a rolling pin until they start to split open. Tear the cucumbers into large chunks, sprinkle with salt, then chill in a colander set over a bowl for about 1 hour. Mix 2 tbsp gochujang chilli paste, 1 tbsp sesame oil, 1 tsp sugar and a dash of vinegar. Discard the drained liquid from the cucumbers, then mix in the dressing with some sesame seeds.

• CHILLI CHOCCIE BROWNIES Add 1 tsp gochujang (more if you love spicy heat) to your favourite brownie recipe. Mix the chilli sauce in with the melted chocolate and butter before folding into the dry ingredients for a spicy twist. deliciousmagazine.co.uk 97

Easy bake

Classic madeira cake It’s a perennial favourite but have you ever actually made one? Here’s your chance – plus a few tips for jazzing it up, if you like RECIPE: DEBBIE MAJOR. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS

Madeira cake Makes 10 slices Hands-on time 20 min, plus cooling Oven time 1 hour You’ll also need Electric hand whisk or stand mixer with a paddle attachment; high-sided, 18cm round cake tin, greased and lined with compostable baking paper (see Know-how) Store the cake in an airtight container for 3-4 days. Alternatively, wrap well and freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost at room temperature. Folding in the flour and milk KNOWin stages helps prevent HOW air pockets in the cake. Making a crater in the cake batter before baking helps prevent the cake doming too high as it bakes. If your tin feels a little on the thin side, fold 2-3 sheets of newspaper into a wide band and tie around the outside of the tin to help prevent over-browning. If you prefer, bake the cake in a 900g loaf tin (about 21.5cm x 11.5cm x 7cm deep) and reduce the cooking time to 45-55 minutes. MAKE AHEAD

• 175g salted butter, softened • 175g golden caster sugar • 3 large free-range eggs 98 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

• 250g self-raising flour • 3 tbsp whole milk, warmed • Finely grated zest 1 large unwaxed lemon • Icing sugar to dust (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 160ºC fan/ gas 4. Beat the butter using an electric hand whisk or stand mixer for 1 minute until really soft. Add the sugar and beat for 5 minutes until pale and fluffy, scraping the sides of the bowl halfway through so everything is evenly mixed. 2 Beat in the eggs one at a time, adding 1 tbsp of the flour with each of the last 2 eggs to stop the mixture from curdling. 3 Sift a third of the flour over the batter, then add 1 tbsp of the warm milk and gently stir in until the mixture is smooth and lump-free. Repeat twice more, including the lemon zest and a pinch of salt with the last addition. 4 Spoon the mixture into the prepared tin, level the surface, then vertically plunge your spatula into the centre of the cake mixture and twist it to make a large, deep hole that goes right down to the bottom of the tin (see Know-how). 5 Bake for 1 hour or until a skewer pushed into the centre of the cake comes away clean. Remove from the oven and leave the cake to

cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Dust with icing sugar, if you like, then slice and serve. Per slice 247kcals, 16.5g fat (9.8g saturated), 3.3g protein, 21.2g carbs (17.8g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.2g fibre

How to pimp it Ground almonds will add extra moistness – replace 50g of the flour with 50g ground almonds. Poppy seeds go well with the lemon flavour and give a pleasant, speckled appearance – 1-2 tbsp should do the trick. Caraway seeds were a popular addition in Victorian times in place of lemon zest. They have quite a pungent flavour, so add only about 1½ tsp. Whole glacé cherries – rinsed, dried and tossed in flour before being folded into the batter – make a delightful cherry cake. Fresh, candied or dried rose petals or even whole pansies will give the cake a pretty finish.

simple.

Rich, golden and versatile – it's hard to better homemade madeira cake

NEXT MONTH The banana loaf to end all banana loaves

New!

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On bo e la a ale , b we n e vas st Sev ve n uarr mean ndering Rii er ,l the anciie o stt f D a . It’s an outdo oors have en,, bu Dianne Spencer is maii ly interested in its ce in eleb a ed food d scene – not to o enttion the ‘W W e Valley bub ly’’....

staycation star.

’re sta nding at the top of May Hill in loucestershire, the highest point for miles, ith views encompassing 12 counties. We can Cotswolds, the Severn Estuary and the see the Malvern Hills, the C Black Mountains of Wales aand, spread below us, the green cloak he River Wye (below). Once the private of the Forest of Dean and th hunting ground of Tudor kiings, today the forest is a playground odland, meadows, marshes and heath, for all, but with miles of woo and myriad cycle trails and footpaths, it never really feels crowded.

3 GREAT FOOD SHOPS

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

The local tipple This is perry country (pear cider to the uninitiated), so it only seems right to start with a visit to the Ross-on-Wye Cider & Perry Company (rosscider.com; tour and tasting £15pp) at Peterstow. Fourth-generation fruit-botherer Albert Johnson shows us the orchards where he and dad Mike grow 140 varieties of cider apples and perry pears. The drinks are made from whole juice and naturally fermented with wild yeasts. “They’re true reflections of our fruit, and of our unique soil and climate,” says Albert, popping the top off a pale golden Gin Pear, a sparkling perry. He makes it sound like champagne, and though I’ve never tried perry before, to me it’s as good as fine fizz. From there we drive south to Clearwell, site of a cave system mined for iron ore since before Roman times (clearwellcaves.com). The caves are open to visitors, but we’re more interested in exploring the top-notch menu at the nearby Tudor Farmhouse Hotel (tudorfarmhouse hotel.co.uk). Hari and Colin Fell have turned this former farm into a haven of luxury, with 20 characterful rooms and an excellent restaurant. Our picks include a silky soup made with sweet onions from the hotel’s kitchen garden. Nearby Coleford is a handsome Georgian market town and worth a visit. Strolling through the prosperouslooking centre we count three butchers, two bakers – no candlestick makers, alas, but a greengrocer and our second car boot-cramming stop, the exceptionally well stocked Forest Deli (see right and recipe, p106). →

Hanley Farm Shop near Chepstow has a 30-mile stocking policy. Fruit and veg come from their community landshare and the in-house butchery showcases the farm’s beef – do try the awardwinning pies. hanleyfarmshop. co.uk Brockweir & Hewelsfield Village Shop is another gem. Top products include Ragmans Lane Farm apple juice. bandh villageshop.co.uk Forest Deli in Coleford sells a range of local cheeses, plus cured meats, pâtés and bakes. Owners Simon and Debbie Jones will even pack you a hamper. forest-deli.co.uk

Glorious turf and surf

PIGGING OUT Gertie is one of the stars of the Humble By Nature farm – and she knows it

The Whitebrook, over the Welsh border near Monmouth, is our destination for the night (see Where to Stay). Set menus can sometimes feel a bit showy, but Chris Harrod’s seven courses are beautifully balanced and imbued with a sense of place. Roasted cauliflower with blackened onions, crispy kale and wild chervil is plate-scrapingly good. But the local Ryeland hogget (one to two-year-old sheep) is sensational, a plate of perfectly pink loin, slow-cooked shoulder and crisp fat-streaked breast dotted with savoury nuggets of liver. The next morning we’re up early for a quick nip round Humble By Nature (humblebynature.com), the working farm and rural skills centre owned by broadcaster Kate Humble. There are retroussésnouted sows (see left) the size of sofas and pushy bottle-fed lambs, a buzzing herb garden, and the airy Pig & Apple café (thepigandapple.co.uk). The centre’s menu of hands-on food courses is equally appealing, and we vow to come back for wood-fired cooking or perhaps a spot of foraging… From there we scoot over the other side of the forest and the Severn & Wye Smokery (severnandwye.co.uk) at Westbury-on-Severn. Housed in an airy stone barn, the smokery store offers plenty of temptation. But it’s the glittering fish counter that’s the star of the show, piled high with silvery fish and not a dull eye among them. Lunch in the café-restaurant is an orgy of seafood, with head chef Mark Stinchcombe sending out a succession of (not-so) small plates: smoked salmon and their flagship eel (the smokery plays a key role in eel conservation), scallops and tender purple octopus. The smokery prides itself on zero waste, so there’s also a dish of crisp salmon skin (like a fishy pork scratching). For mains we feast on a hunk of roasted Cornish turbot served with a slick of ultra-rich chicken butter sauce.

3 MORE MUSTN’T-MISS EATS The Lyon Inn, Westbury-OnSevern This renovated inn offers a refined take on pub grub. The salt chamberaged longhorn steaks (left) are especially good. thelyoninn.com

104 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

The Chocolate Bar, Taurus Crafts, Lydney Chocolatiers Mark and Maren Foderingham Thompson dream up Willy Wonka flavours. Bliss! thechocolatebarltd. co.uk

The Farmers Boy Inn, Longhope Winner of 31 British Pie Awards, this pub with rooms offers a staggering choice, including a roast dinner pie with a Yorkshire pud lid. farmersboyinn. co.uk

staycation star.

“You’ll have seen Rod’s double gloucester rolling down a hill”

Cheese, please There’s simply no room for pudding but I never say no to cheese, and I’ve been tipped off about one of the area’s best (it’s old-school – I had to ring 01452 750225 to check the farm was open to customers). After bumping down the track to the dairy farm of Smart Traditional Gloucester Cheeses, near Churcham, we find Rod Smart (above) up to his elbows in creamy curd, making sweet-smelling rounds of traditional unpasteurised PDO single gloucester. Fresh and lactic, with clean grassy notes, this young cheese was once a staple of every Gloucestershire farmhouse table. Today Rod’s one of just a handful of producers, and the proud owner of a fine-looking herd of rare pedigree Gloucester cattle – one of the key criteria for PDO status. “We’re not organic,” he says, “but we are a low-input farm, and we don’t push our cows hard. It means we have control over the quality.” You’ll possibly have seen Rod’s double gloucester rolling down a hill on telly. It’s the one they use at the annual madcap cheese-rolling shindig at Cooper’s Hill. He also makes harefield, a sweet, nutty, aged cheese that’s “our version parmesan”.. All are sion of parmesan handmade in small baatches using vintage Victorian cheese presses. It look ks like back-breaking work, but Rod seems to thrive on n it. “My mum was still making cheese at 85,” he says with w a twinkle. The car’s suspension is a bit lower after loading our cheeese stash, and a reviving coffee is neeeded. We find a good one at The Forest Bakehouse (forestba kehouse. co.uk) in Longhope. The T bakerycafé counter is piled high h with sourdoughs and lavish h pastries, all made using local Sh hipton Mill flour and a three-day ffermentation process. The cake is pretty good too: moist all-butter sponge swirled through with tangy loccal rhubarb. →

WHERE TO STAY

AND RELAX! Find comfy beds and fine food at The Whitebrook Inn (below left) and Blaisdon House H ((right); i ht) fresh bread at The Forest Bakehouse

Blaisdon House B&B Country-house chic in the village of Blaisdon, with spacious rooms in muted Farrow & Ball shades and superlative fry-ups served house-party style around a handsome linenswathed table. Doubles from £90 B&B. blaisdonhouse.com The Whitebrook Featured in last month’s delicious., chef-owner Chris Harrod’s restaurant with rooms has retained its Michelin star for the sixth year on the trot. The beds are supremely comfortable. Doubles from £279, including B&B and seven-course evening set menu. thewhitebrook.co.uk

staycation star.

Time for a brew We end our Forest of Dean foray the way we started: a stone’s throw from May Hill, sampling good booze in the company of an expert. This time our host is Paul Williamson of the award-winning Hillside Brewery (hillsidebrewery.com). The tasting (from £15) is an education: we learn how to assess clarity, carbonation and aroma; we sniff malts and hops from around the world; and we taste a lot of beer. There’s Pinnacle, a zesty pale ale, Legless Cow, their bestselling best bitter, and my favourite, Over the Hill, a dark, malty mild. How can one area have so many great products? Our boot (and back seat) are now stuffed with so many ﬁnds from the forest, we could start our own farm shop. But we can’t resist buying some of Paul’s ales – and he offers us a good reason: “Real ale’s packed with polyphenols and B vitamins, including niacin, plus it’s 10% soluble ﬁbre. It’s basically a health food,” he smiles as he waves us on our way.

HOP TO IT Hillside’s head brewer Will Kear magics up a new ale

1 tsp sumac (widely available) 1 tsp dried oregano 1 large free-range egg, separated 1 tsp dijon mustard 75g Smart’s traditional single gloucester (or a mature cheddar), finely grated • 1 sheet ready-rolled puff pastry (about 320g)

Do try this at home Forest Deli’s veggie sausage rolls Makes 20 bite-size rolls (or 6 large rolls) Hands-on time 30 min, plus cooling Oven time 20-25 min You’ll also need 1-2 large baking sheets lined with compostable baking paper • 50g unsalted butter • 175g leeks (about 2 medium), sliced • 200g fresh wholemeal breadcrumbs 106 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

1 Heat the oven to 190ºC fan/gas 6½. Gently melt the butter in a pan over a low heat, then stir in the leeks. Cover and cook for 5-6 minutes, stirring every now and then, until softened. Allow to cool slightly. 2 Put the breadcrumbs in a large mixing bowl with the sumac and oregano. Whisk the egg yolk with the dijon mustard, then pour into the crumbs, mixing well with a fork. Stir in the cheese, then add the warm leeks and their juices. Season and mix well. 3 Unroll the pastry sheet with the long edge nearest to you. Form half the filling into a long sausage the same length as the pastry. Lay the sausage along the near edge of the pastry, then roll the pastry around the filling until it’s enclosed. Brush a 1cm wide line of beaten egg white along the pastry where it meets, then roll 1cm more to seal. Cut the pastry neatly with a sharp knife to make a long roll. Make sure the seam sits underneath. Repeat. 4 Cut each long roll into 10 (or 3) even pieces. Transfer to the sheet(s), spacing them apart. Brush the remaining egg white over the pastry to glaze, then bake for 20-25 minutes until puffed and golden. Per serving (for 20) 124kcals, 7.8g fat (4.2g saturated), 3.5g protein, 9.5g carbs (0.6g sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.3g fibre

FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: LAUREN MILLER. WITH THANKS TO WYE VALLEY & FOREST OF DEAN TOURISM (WYEDEANTOURISM.CO.UK)

• • • • •

Hit new heights with the signature pud from London’s Gloria restaurant

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Skills, knowledge, best buys & sustainable living

Learn. Discover. Buy. Discover the secret to making an awardwinning vinegar with a fruity dimension

Gill Meller’s runner bean chutney captures the taste of summer

››

Jen

Cook’s tip

Our food editor shares the bes tried from the big retailers, the l t she’s tested, plus her tricks and Follow Jen on Instagram @jenbedloe

Use up a glut of fresh mint to make a classic mojito: put 10 mint leaves and 1 tbsp granulated sugar in a glass. With a muddler or wooden spoon handle, mush together to extract the oils from the mint. Add crushed ice to a cocktail shaker, then add 50ml rum and 1 tbsp lime juice. Shake well, then strain into the glass and top up with

e t g dg d t how

My golden rules… … ITALIAN MERIN NGUE Your lemon meringue pie (see p114) deserves the ultimate crown KEEP IT CLEAN Make sure all your equipment is clean and dry. Any grease on the bowl or whisk (or spot of yolk in the white) will prevent the egg whites whisking properly, and any debris in the pan will encourage sugar crystals to form in the sugar syrup. MIND YOUR MISE EN PLACE Timing is crucial for Italian meringue. Have the egg whites whipped in the mixer before you start the sugar syrup; don’t let the syrup boil before all the sugar has

melted; and keep an eye on the syrup’s temperature once it comes to the boil. KEEP THE SPEED STEADY Resist the urge to turn the mixer up to its highest speed when whisking. Starting the egg whites on a low-medium speed creates a tight and stable mass of small air bubbles. When the syrup is added, mixing on a medium speed prevents the meringue being overwhipped before it cools. Stop whisking as soon as the meringue is at room temperature.

What I’m loving on the shelves CO O OCKTAIL HOUR

LUNCH CLUB Sourdough is fab for toast and more, but the kids often find it a bit chewy for sarnies. We loved these ready-sliced loaves from Bertinet Bakery. The White Sliced and Seeded Sliced Sourdough bloomers have the sourdough flavour but a lighter texture and softer crust. From £2 for 500g, Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Ocado and Milk & More 108 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Da aughter Romilly likes to make me a Friday cocktail (she’s me well trained, I know), and was we delighted to make herself an de alcohol-free Bramble with this al cordial. Made from hedgerow fruit, it’s gorgeous as is, fr d drizzled over desserts, added tto prosecco or mixed with b berries and gently warmed to make a compote to swirl into yogurt. Bottlegreen Juicy Bramble Cordial, £3.49 for 500ml, Sainsbury’s, Ocado

POWER SOUP Bol first launched itts s plant-based power soups in 2017, but the new recipes can now be eaten hot or cold. These have a far higher fibre and protein content than other shop-bought soups. Choose from Protein Boosting Red Pepper & Tomato, Immune Boosting Butternut Squash & Chilli, Protein Boosting Garden Pea & Spinach and, my favourite, Energy Boosting Sweet Potato Cauli-Daal. £2.95 for a 600g pot, Tesco

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Seasonal hero: corn on the cob I can’t wait for corn on the cob season to start, even with bits stuck in your teeth and butter running down your chin. I chuckle when I think of my mum’s funny cob skewers stuck in the ends to avoid burnt hands – slightly defeating the object as I always scalded my mouth. This month is the time to buy cobs, their golden kernels ripe, juicy and super sweet. How to enjoy Boil for a few minutes – or brush with oil and add straight to the grill – then slather with butter and seasoning. Or cut up the cobs and add to stews and soups to flavour and season the dish. Try this! Search ‘sweetcorn with pancetta, rosemary and garlic butter’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk

What I’m rating We’ve got more into grilling this year, though sadly not outside as often as I’d have liked. This month I’ve been cooking with this ceramic-coated aluminium griddle pan from Stellar

From scratch: fish stock Quique Dacosta’s restaurant Arros QD shared its house seafood stock recipe with me – use it to make his queen scallop rice on p24

MAKE AHEAD

KNOWHOW

Make the stock, cool completely, then freeze for up to 6 months. Ask your fishmonger for any offcuts you can use to make the stock.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

1 Heat 100ml olive oil in a large pan (one with a lid) over a medium heat. Add 200g finely chopped onions, 4 finely

fish and heads, shells, offcuts, bones: crab/prawns; mussels/ clams/oysters; monkfish/ rockfish/herring) to the pan and cook for 20 minutes. 3 Grate 300g vine tomatoes (or whizz in a processor), then add to the pan and stir in, loosening anything catching on the bottom of the pan. Add 1 tsp smoked paprika and large pinch of saffron and cook for 1 minute. 4 Pour in 3 litres water and bring to the boil for 8 minutes. After the 8 minutes, lower the heat and simmer gently for

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e eeYTceed g n Z k o d of dm ady to raise your oking game? In this ries we equip you with e science to ensure ccess every time

V ¬Rg`fcd “Smoked salmon, smoked haddock, smoked duck, smoked nuts, smoked garlic, smoked salt, smoked butter — almost anything can be smoked these days. But what exactly happens when you smoke something — is it just about flavour? And how easy is it to do at home?” Food writer (and self-confessed food obsessive) Lucas Hollweg

NEXT MONTH The power of pickling

110 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

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The science-y bit

Basics Smoking (and salting) developed as a way of stopping meat and fish from spoiling; the smoke also helped mask food that was less than fresh. The result was often so heavily salted and smoked that it kept for up to a year and needed soaking before it could be eaten. These days, smoking is mostly about adding a bit of smoky character to enhance food’s natural flavour, so both salt and smoke have been significantly reduced.

How is it done? There are two kinds of smoking: hot and cold. Hot smoking, as the name suggests, involves exposing the food to smoke at a high enough temperature that it also cooks – and kills off bacteria that could spoil the food or be potentially dangerous. The food is safe to eat just as it is, without further cooking, as is the case with, say, smoked mackerel or smoked duck. Cold smoking, by contrast, imparts a smoky flavour to the food without cooking it – smoked bacon, for example. This usually involves keeping the temperature below 30ºC in a smoking chamber that’s separated from the heat source. Confusingly, not all cold-smoked food needs further cooking – cold-smoked salmon, of course, can be eaten as it is.

How does smoking preserve food? There’s more to it than just the smoke. Meat and fish are usually cured before they’re smoked. The cure involves salt (and often sugar), either as a dry rub or in a brine, and often has herbs, spices and even whisky or other spirits added for flavour. Salt in the cure draws liquid from

the food, while slowing the growth of harmful microbes (bacteria like moisture and don’t like salt, so as the water content decreases and salt level rises, bacterial activity falls). Smoke, too, contains chemical compounds that help prevent bacteria from multiplying, so it acts as a further preservative. Cold-smoked salmon is really a sort of smoked gravadlax; it’s essentially raw, but the curing and light smoking are enough to stop it spoiling too rapidly. Lightly cured pork isn’t considered safe to eat, however, so it needs cooking even after cold-smoking. Other kinds of cold-smoked pork – smoked air-dried ham, for instance – can be eaten without cooking, but they’re cured longer and in such a way that there’s no longer any risk from harmful bacteria.

What makes the smoke? Usually wood chips or sawdust are either dampened before burning or the supply of oxygen is restricted so they smoke rather than flame. Different woods impart different tastes to the food. Beech is quite mild, oak gives a strong flavour, apple has sweet notes, while hickory gives an intense, sweet smoke flavour that’s popular in US barbecue. You can also smoke with tea or seaweed.

What is BBQ smoke? It’s a combination of solid sooty particles, tiny droplets of liquid and chemical vapours (mainly phenols). The latter are invisible but they’re the key flavour elements. When these land on the food they stick to any water or oil, react with proteins to create flavour and permeate the food.

Enough science. How do I make it? Hot-smoked salmon Makes About 1kg Hands-on time 20 min, plus 24 hours curing Smoking time 20-30 min You’ll also need Dish big enough for the fish to lie flat; barbecue with a lid; dampened wood chips; 3 large foil trays • 80g light brown sugar • 40g salt flakes • 1 tbsp ground black pepper • 1kg skin-on side sustainably sourced salmon, pin bones removed 1 Mix the sugar, salt and pepper. Scatter a third in the salmon dish and put the fish on top, skin down. Cover with the remaining mixture. Wrap with cling film and chill overnight. Next day, wipe off and discard the cure, then pat the fish dry and return to the fridge for a few more hours for a ‘pellicle’ to form – a tacky surface that will help the smoke adhere. 2 Light your barbecue, setting it up for indirect cooking (hot coals/gas burners lit only on one side). Lift the grill, put wood chips in one of the foil trays and put on top of the hot coals or right next to the gas burners. Fill a second tray with water and put it on the unlit side of the barbecue. Replace the grill on top. 3 Lay the fish in the other foil tray and put on the cool side of the barbecue, above the water. Close the lid and cook for 20-30 minutes until the flesh is cooked through. Eat hot or cold within 3-4 days. Per 100g 219kcals, 13.6g fat (2.5g saturated), 18.6g protein, 5.2g carbs (5.2g sugars), 1.5g salt, 0.3g fibre

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million fewer pieces of plastic will be produced per year, thanks to Tesco’s ban on flexible multi-pack rings. Some brands, including Carling, have already made the switch. Good news for turtles, sea birds, ducks and other aquatic life, who can get tangled in or ingest the rings.

Green kitchen Be a greener camper Summer 2021 will be one of the busiest camping seasons on record, according to Cool Camping. ith so many of us heading for forest and fields, ow can we best be eco-friendly campers? HAT TO PACK Take kids’ lunchboxes, tiffin ns and beeswax wraps, advises Claire homson, co-author of Camper Van Cooking uadrille £20; see our feature on p38). HAT TO EAT Buy from local farm shops and veg lls. Take homemade tortillas or bread, plus ust-skinned fruit (pineapples/watermelons). AN ECO-STOVE “I love my charcoal Joy ve. It doesn’t take long to get going and the grill works like a frying pan,” says Thomson. TIVAL DOS AND DON’TS Mark Hix, who is aring at The Big Feastival (thebigfeastival. says, “Pack a foldable water bottle and use refill stations. Bring a solar charger, ble straws, cutlery (see right) and cups.” 112 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Ideas for sustainable living

Reusable Bamboo Picnic Cutlery Set with metal straw and straw cleaner, £10.50, wildandstone.com

GETTY IMAGES

Katy Salter is on a mission to help us all be more ethical in the way we cook and eat. Her advice may change your life

Walker-Munro and eight other female tea growers using cold-tolerant seeds from Georgia and Nepal. “The plants dislike our winters, but the stress seems to enhance the flavour,” says tea grower Pinkie Methven. Climate change could slash tea production in traditional areas, so UK-grown teas are good news. It’s a tiny industry now, but tea is also grown in Cornwall and Wales. Buy Nine Ladies tea from Fortnum & Mason’s Rare Tea Counter. teagardensofscotland. co.uk

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Kitchen bookshelf

A trio of new offerings, all inspired by the cooking traditions of Italy AN A-Z OF PASTA

Sardiniabased pastry chef Letitia Clark brings her own flair to recipes inspired by Italy’s rich heritage of sweet creations in her second book, flush with citrus and ricotta. There are classics (tiramisu, pannacotta), specialities (pasteira Napoletana) and clever ideas such as citrus Campari upside-down cake, along with evocative words on sweet pleasures. Hardie Grant £26

COMPETITION

Food writer Rachel Roddy lives in Rome, and her essays on 50 pasta shapes range from alfabeto to ziti. Subtitled ‘Stories, Shapes, Sauces, Recipes’, this is a fine balance of history, geography and anecdote, plus cooking advice gleaned from 16 years of living in Italy. Written with warmth, it’s an absorbing introduction to the infinite possibilities of pasta, with recipes for each entry. Fig Tree £25

A CURIOUS ABSENCE OF CHICKENS Take a vicarious trip to southern Italy with seasoned cookery writer Sophie Grigson, who moved to Puglia in 2019. She recounts her impressions of everything from the idiosyncrasies of her local market to the region’s famous storied olive groves in this charming, sparingly illustrated read, bookended with traditional recipes (some with her slant). One to savour. Headline Home £20

WIN! A relaxing beach hut break in Devon Enjoy good food and some seaside pampering at the Cary Arms & Spa

Worth £1,300

* erched on the edge of Babbacombe Bay in South Devon, the Cary Arms & Spa – a self-styled ‘inn on the beach’ – combines all the charm of a seaside bolthole with the style of a boutique hotel. Alongside traditional rooms, there are quirky beach suites and restored fishermen’s cottages to stay in. Our winner and their guest will enjoy at two-night stay in one of six luxury beach huts overlooking the sea, with a sun terrace, feature fire and split-level interior. Known for its seaside dining and Saturday lobster barbecues in summer, the restaurant serves fresh Devon produce including local line-caught fish. During your stay, you’ll enjoy a three-course meal on one evening with a bottle of wine, plus a two-course lunch with glass of wine. And to complete the experience, you can unwind with a 50-minute treatment each in the sea-facing spa. Bliss. caryarms.co.uk Get our

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*APPROXIMATE PRIZE VALUE. COMPETITION CLOSES 31 AUGUST 2021. SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY AND VALID UNTIL 23 DECEMBER 2022. EXCLUSIONS APPLY, INCLUDING JULY & AUGUST 2022

WORDS: PHOEBE STONE

LA VITA È DOLCI

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T he technical bake

Mile high lemon meringue pie The pastry and the lemon custard can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept in the fridge. The meringue can be made 2-3 hours ahead and kept covered at room temperature. The tart is best eaten on the day it’s made. The pastry Pâte sucrée is sometimes KNOWcalled sweet shortcrust, but the method HOW is different. Butter and sugar are creamed with an egg before adding the dry ingredients, resulting in a more malleable dough. A long resting time is essential to allow the butter to firm up before rolling, and take your time when lining the tart shell – you may need to chill the pastry briefly between rolling and lining the tin. The lemon custard The method for the custard is called tempering: a little of the hot mixture is added to the eggs to stop them scrambling when they’re added back into the pan. If you don’t have a stick blender, whizz the mixture in a food processor, adding the butter in a few additions. The Italian meringue We recommend using a sugar thermometer (or digital thermometer) as the sugar syrup needs to be 120-122ºC when it’s mixed with the egg whites. The hot syrup cooks the whites, resulting in a soft, stable meringue that doesn’t need further cooking. Start whisking the whites just before the sugar syrup reaches the target temperature so they’re sufficiently whipped (they should be at medium peaks – the tips flop a little when the whisks are removed). Start whisking on a low-medium speed, then increase to medium. This helps to develop small, stable air bubbles in the egg white, resulting in a better texture. Find more meringue tips in Jen’s Kitchen (p108) MAKE AHEAD

Gloria’s lemon pie Serves 8-10 Hands-on time 45 min, plus at least 8 hours chilling/resting Oven time 20-25 min You’ll also need Stand mixer with paddle and whisk attachments; 22cm loose-bottomed tart tin, greased and the base lined with compostable baking paper; sugar thermometer or good digital thermometer; chef’s blow torch Useful to have Stick blender or food processor For the pastry • 90g unsalted butter, softened • 50g icing sugar • 20g ground almonds • 1 large free-range egg • 150g plain flour, plus extra to dust • ½ tsp salt For the lemon custard • 2 platinum-grade gelatine leaves – we used Dr Oetker • 150g caster sugar • Finely grated zest 2 unwaxed lemons, juice 3 lemons • 3 large free-range eggs • 210g cold unsalted butter, cut into 2cm cubes

For the Italian meringue • 230g caster sugar • Juice 1 lemon • 4 large free-range egg whites 1 For the pastry, put the butter, icing sugar and ground almonds in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and beat until smooth. Add the egg and beat again until well combined. Sift in the flour and salt, then briefly mix on a low speed until the pastry just comes together. Form the dough into a ball, wrap well and put in the fridge to rest for at least 8 hours or overnight. 2 For the lemon custard, put the gelatine in a bowl of cold water and set aside to soften for 5-10 minutes. Put the sugar and lemon juice in a pan over a medium heat and cook, stirring regularly, until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat. 3 Put the 3 eggs in a large bowl and whisk until well combined. While whisking, slowly pour half the hot lemon mixture into the eggs (see Know-how), then return the egg mixture to the saucepan and cook over a low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and is

GLORIA is a Capri-style trattoria with a banging atmosphere in Shoreditch, east London. It mixes Italian classics and products from small Italian producers with fun twists on popular favourites. It’s part of the Big Mamma Group, whose latest let-the-good-times-roll restaurant, a Florence-inspired establishment called Ave Mario, opened this summer in Covent Garden.

RECIPE: FILIPPO LA GATTUTA, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT GLORIA (BIGMAMMAGROUP.COM). PHOTOGRAPH: HANNAH HUGHES. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

With tangy custard, crumbly pastry and a magnificent meringue mountain, this version – the signature pud from London restaurant Gloria – is worth mastering

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gently boiling. Take off the heat. Squeeze the gelatine to remove excess water, then whisk into the lemon custard. Use a stick blender to gradually incorporate the butter into the hot custard (see Know-how), then stir in the lemon zest. Pour the custard into an airtight container and chill for at least 8 hours or overnight (see Make Ahead). 4 Once the pastry and lemon custard have chilled, heat the oven to 160ºC fan/gas 4. Roll out the pastry dough on a lightly floured surface into a large 25-26cm disc roughly 2-3mm thick. Line the tart tin, then use a sharp knife to trim the pastry flush with the edge of the tin (see Know-how). Chill for 30 minutes, then line with compostable baking paper and

fill with ceramic baking beans or uncooked rice. Bake for 15 minutes, then carefully remove the beans/rice and paper and return the pastry to the oven for 5-10 minutes more until the pastry base is cooked and dry to the touch. Set aside to cool. 5 To make the meringue, put the sugar, lemon juice and 2 tbsp water in a heavy-based pan set over a low heat, stirring regularly until the sugar dissolves. Bring to the boil and cook until the mixture reads 120ºC on a cooking thermometer (see Know-how). When the sugar syrup is almost at temperature (around 112ºC) whisk the egg whites to medium-stiff peaks in the very clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (see Know-how).

With the mixer on medium, carefully pour the 120ºC syrup into the meringue in a thin stream (pour directly onto the egg white rather than the whisk or bowl). Continue to whisk until the meringue is thick and glossy and completely cooled. 6 To assemble, briefly whisk the lemon custard to loosen it and remove any lumps, then spoon into the cooled pastry case. Pile the meringue on top and use a spatula to shape it into a tall dome. To get the authentic Gloria look, caramelise the outside of the meringue with a blow torch (or leave as is), then chill for an hour before serving. Per serving (for 10) 480kcals, 26.6g fat (16g saturated), 4.7g protein, 55.1g carbs (43.5g sugars), 0.3g salt, 0.6g fibre.

NEXT MONTH Try your hand at tarte tatin

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Support British producers!

UK cheese tour

…with Patrick McGuigan. If you think all halloumi has the bland, rubbery appeal of a car tyre, think again

WHY YOU NEED IT IN YOUR LIFE Summer’s here and the barbecues are lit, ready to grill gleaming hunks of halloumi. If this sounds like you, then Laverstoke’s new buffalomi is worth a test drive. Made by former Formula 1 champion racing driver Jody Scheckter with a mix of cow and buffalo milk at his farm in Hampshire, it’s softer, creamier and less salty than mass-produced halloumi, but still caramelises beautifully over hot coals. THE BACK STORY After retiring from racing in 1980, Scheckter, originally from South Africa, went on to develop the 2,500-acre organic Laverstoke Park Farm near Overton, which is home to a herd of nearly 700 buffaloes. Their rich, creamy milk has long been made into British buffalo mozzarella, but is now also being mixed with cow’s milk from a local farm to create a British alternative to halloumi. 116 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL? Halloumi is protected by EU law and a UK trademark, meaning it must be made in Cyprus with at least 51% sheep and goat’s milk (cow’s milk can make up the rest). By using a mix of buffalo milk, which has a high butterfat and protein content, and cow’s milk, Laverstoke’s cheese has a distinctly different character. The flavour is sweeter and milkier with a more marshmallowy texture and less pronounced squeak. Buffalomi also has around a third of the salt of traditional halloumi. HOW TO ENJOY IT Grill or dry fry until the outside is golden brown, then serve as you would halloumi in burgers, salads and kebabs, partnered with bold flavours – spices, herbs and citrus. Polenta-coated buffalomi fries are terrific with Tracklements Fresh Chilli Jam, or drizzled with honey and mint yogurt. The cheese has a delicate, salty finish, which cries out for a well chilled aromatic white. M&S’s floral, lemony Moschofilero & Roditis from Greece, part of the Found range, is just right for summer sipping in the garden. It’s a podium-topping pairing.

WINNING FORMULA Jody’s buffaloes help turn Laverstoke Park cheeses into champs

Buffalomi CHEESEMAKER

Laverstoke Park Farm, Hampshire

STYLE

Halloumi-style grilling cheese, made with buffalo and cow’s milk. Both organic and non-organic versions are made.

AGE

It’s not aged

VEGGIE?

Yes

BEST DRINKS MATCH

M&S Found Moschofilero & Roditis 2020

TALK LIKE A CHEESE GURU “The squeak you hear when eating this style of cheese comes from the enamel on your teeth rubbing against long protein strands, which firm up when the cheese is cooked.” BUY IT £2.45 for 200g, allgoodmarket.co.uk

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Best three-star In this roundup, our friends at the Great Taste Awards have gathered seven sensational products you need in your life while the sun shines POUR ON STRAWBERRIES Jess’s Ladies Organic Farm Cream WHAT THE JUDGES SAID... They were in awe of these creams made on a Gloucester farm, calling the single cream “very indulgent” and the double “full of flavour”. From £2.69 for 250ml, naturalgrocery.co.uk (or visit theladiesorganicmilk.co.uk for stockists)

BASTE BBQ VEG Odysea Date Molasses WHAT THE JUDGES SAID... “Glistening like a treacly brown jewel”, it has date flavours coming through “in perfect balance – not too punchy, not too sweet, not too dry”. £5.49 for 500ml, odysea.com

SIP IN A LOUNGER Country Cordials Lime & Ginger WHAT THE JUDGES SAID... They rhapsodised over the “old-school cloudy look” and “lively, gingery lime aroma” of this Cornish cooler, which finishes with a “punch of fiery delight”. £3.75 for 250ml, countrycordials.co.uk

SPRINKLE ON BBQ CORN COBS Shedletsky’s Green Hot! Sauce WHAT THE JUDGES SAID... There’s “huge fruit on the nose” from this fermented green chilli sauce from east London, which has “a cacophony of flavours” rather than pure fire. From £4.50, shedletskysdeli.com

NIBBLE WITH A COLD BEER Pea Green Boat Cheese Sablés with Fennel & Chilli WHAT THE JUDGES SAID... Applauding this product’s “bold cheese flavour, followed by fennel, then the heat”, they agreed “it would be hard to stop at one or two”. £3.50 for 80g, shortbreadhouse.com

DRIZZLE OVER ICE CREAM Sarah Gray’s Raspberry Jam WHAT THE JUDGES SAID... This elixir from a farm in Angus elicited mmms and ahhs for giving “a blast of raspberries on the nose, then an explosion of flavours on the tongue”. £3.20 for 300g, sarah-grays.myshopify.com

TURBO-CHARGE A BBQ STEAK Black Garlic Whisky Smoked Salt WHAT THE JUDGES SAID... They were blown away by this seasoning sensation from Scotland, appreciating that “the black garlic is not overwhelmed by the smoking, nor the smoking overpowered by the black garlic – a joy”. £2 for a 30g jar or £3.50 for a 80g box, whiskysmoked.com

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“Preserving is a beautifully resourceful craft, born out of necessity and an understanding of our environment. Take a jar of this stuff to your holiday rental to enjoy with a good local cheese – or just savour it at home.” GILL MELLER RECIPE AND STYLING: GILL MELLER. PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW MONTGOMERY

VEGAN RECIPE

Runner bean and apple chutney Makes about 1.5-1.75 litres Hands-on time 15 min Simmering time 2 hours You’ll also need Preserving pan or large non-reactive saucepan; sterilised preserving jars Useful to have Pestle and mortar for bashing For tips on sterilising your preserving jars go to deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ how-to-sterilise-jars. Swap the coriander, EASY SWAPS caraway and cardamom for other favourite spices if you prefer. KNOWHOW

• 500g runner beans, de-stringed and cut into 1cm lengths • 1kg bramley apples, peeled, quartered, cored and roughly chopped • 500g ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped • 2 onions, roughly chopped • 150g sultanas

• • • • • •

2 tsp coriander seeds, bashed 1 tsp caraway seeds, bashed 2 green cardamom pods, bashed 350g light brown soft sugar 500ml cider vinegar 1 tsp fine sea salt

1 Put all the ingredients in a preserving pan over a medium heat (see Easy Swaps). Slowly bring the mixture up to a simmer, stirring regularly until the sugar has dissolved. 2 Reduce the heat and gently simmer the chutney for 1½–2 hours, stirring every so often to stop it sticking to the base of the pan. The chutney will thicken as it cooks; you’ll know it’s ready when you can draw a wooden spoon across the bottom of the pan and it leaves a path behind it for a few seconds before the chutney collapses back down and covers the base. Be extra-careful it doesn’t catch and burn at this point. 3 Remove the chutney from the heat and spoon carefully into jars, still warm from sterilising (see

Know-how). Seal with the lids and cool. Store in a cool, dark place for several months before eating – although you can eat it earlier, if you like. Once open, store in the fridge and use within a month. Per 100g 78kcals, 0.3g fat (no saturated), 0.8g protein, 17.4g carbs (17.2g sugars), 0.2g salt, 1.5g fibre

“I don’t make this to survive (things have changed), but with a stock of it in the cupboard I can take part of the summer deep into winter.”

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NEXT MONTH Gill’s juicy corn on the cob deliciousmagazine.co.uk 119

Cheers!

Susy Atkins quenches your summer thirst with a lipsmacking white, a citrussy IPA and four sunshine-filled bottles. Plus: a new guide to hedgerow cocktails

Spotlight on... Your expert guide to... PICPOUL DE PINET

t’s unusual to find a white wine from a hot area that has a refreshing, crisp character, but that’s exactly what the picpoul grape delivers from the Languedoc in the deep south of France. The region around the village of Pinet, near the coast (which benefits from cooling sea breezes), is now renowned for its dry whites scented with fresh lemon and hedgerow blossom, citrus and apple flavours and a salty edge. Picpoul has naturally high acidity – some believe the name means ‘lip-stinger’; others that is refers to local chickens (poulets) pecking at the grapes – so it makes a mouthwatering drop. Chill the distinctive tall, green bottles to pair with seafood and summer salads, ideally with lemon-based dressings. Try these:

Asda Picpoul de Pinet Blanc Sec 2020, Languedoc, France 12.5% An excellent introduction to the picpoul grape, Asda’s own-label version has green apple and citrus notes and a whistle-clean mineral streak. £7, Asda

Villemarin Picpoul de Pinet 2020, Ormarine, Languedoc, France 13% A crisp cocktail of fresh green apples and preserved lemons with a hint of peach; the finish is tangy and clean. A perfect summery aperitif. £9.99 or £7.49 as part of a mixed six, Majestic

The Society’s Picpoul de Pinet 2020, Languedoc, France 13% I love the white blossom note in the aroma, and the lemon and grapefruit with a little twist of white pepper in the tail. Pair it with delicate white fish like sole. £8.75, thewinesociety.com*

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Big Drop Paradiso Citra IPA Alcohol-free, England 0.5%

Big Drop is the only UK brewery dedicated entirely to alcohol-free beers (0.5% is classified as alcohol free) – and its diverse range of styles includes a soft and chocolatey milk stout and this lively, citrus-streaked IPA, which has a well-balanced bitter edge to the finish. One of the best ‘nolo’ beers around. £1.50 for 330ml, Waitrose, Ocado and bigdropbrew.com

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Taste-tested buys for hot summer days

PHOTOGRAPHS: KELLER + KELLER PHOTOGRAPHY (COCKTAIL), ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES. *£40 ONE-OFF MEMBERSHIP FEE WITH £20

A fresh take on cocktails Seeking out wild ingredients to make cocktails sounds like a splendid fusion of delights – even more so if you read Ellen Zachos’ book The Wildcrafted Cocktail (Storey £11.99), first published in the US and now available in the UK. It’s packed with original ideas for infusions, syrups and garnishes to use in cocktails, and Zachos throws in lots of general tips for would-be mixologists along the way. Concoctions include the Rose Sip 75 made with homemade rosehip syrup (above right), a crab apple-infused bourbon and the Stinger in the Rye, which involves nettles… As it’s a US book, you’ll need to know that 1 ounce = 30ml and that a few of the plants referred to don’t grow here, but overall this is an inspiring read.

Irresistible Gavi Broglia 2019, Italy 13.5% Here’s a light and elegant Italian white for the fish and seafood dishes this month. Made from the cortese grape, with delicate apple, peach and almond flavours. Co-op, £8.50

Match of the month

Find fishy recipes on p22

Wines from sunny holiday destinations such as France, Greece and… East Sussex!

Cintu Rosé 2020, Île de Beauté, France 11.5% One of the best rosés of the summer, a Corsican gem made from local grape varieties, with light flavours of red berries and orange peel. Dry, refreshing and not too strong. £10 (£8 until 3 August), Marks & Spencer

Irresistible Viognier 2019, St Gabriel’s Vineyard, Pays d’Oc, France 13.5% Brimming with ripe yellow plums and apricot but still balanced and fresh, this French viognier is a star match for barbecued chicken or creamy curries. £8, The Co-op

Found Xinomavro & Mandilaria 2019, Greece 13.5% A blend of two Greek grapes has created lovely notes of blackberry and plum, with a sprinkle of dried herbs in the background. One for this month’s easy roast lamb (p54). £9.50, Marks & Spencer

Busi-Jacobsohn Cuvée Brut 2018, East Sussex, England 12% English wine at its crispest: clean and shot through with bright lemon and green apple, plus a light biscuit note on the dry finish. £38, Harvey Nichols and busijacobsohn.com

Mead and raspberries give Marion Dunn’s vinegar a complex sweet-and-sour flavour and a gorgeous colour

Berry well steeped

Champion p

Vinegar with a sweet side A desire to reduce waste and put her beekeeping to good use prompted Marion Dunn to create Welsh honey vinegar – proof that passion and practicality are an award-winning formula

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othing goes to waste on Marion Dunn’s smallholding in Newcastle Emlyn, West Wales. Her determination to use every resource is the driving force behind Wenallt Hive’s honey-based products. “I want to use as much as possible as I can from the hive,” say Marion: “honey, beeswax, pollen and propolis [a resin also known as bee glue]. I even make mead from the last bit of honey that won’t ﬁt in the jar, out of a desire not to waste anything.” But her most celebrated product to date is her Welsh Honey Vinegar With Raspberry, which earned her three stars and a best-productin-Wales Golden Fork in last year’s Great Taste Awards.

process that takes 18 months of nurturing. “Essentially, we’re fermenting the sugars into alcohol. You can make a base alcohol pretty quickly, but to turn that into vinegar takes more time.” To create it, Marion adds a vinegar ‘mother’ to the mead, which is then matured for another three months. FRUITY BY NATURE Initially Marion made a straightforward honey vinegar, but given that she lives on a 13-acre smallholding, it seemed natural to experiment with homegrown produce. Adding horseradish and damsons have both worked well, but steeping raspberries in the vinegar has proved a particularly “happy marriage”. Added to a base of wildflower honey, the raspberries bring a sweet, fruity flavour and a delicate yet vibrant colour. Food lovers agree, and The Great Taste judges praised the vinegar for taking their taste buds on “a fine flavour journey – fruity and sweet and sour and rich and fun”. Though grateful for the award raising her profile, Marion won’t be scaling up her operation to a megafactory any time soon. “There’s only me and only the hours in the day that I myself can put in, so I prefer to concentrate on a small production that’s truly ethical, authentic and local.”

“You can make alcohol quickly, but vinegar takes time”

HONEY, MEAD AND MOTHER Before she can make the vinegar, Marion needs to make mead, and before she can make mead, she needs (of course) honey. Marion’s beekeeping hobby became a business in 2017. Wenallt Hive now has 40 hives in five apiaries across West Wales. “Bees always go for the flowers producing nectar with the most concentrated sugar content. What they choose might be very different five miles down the road, giving the honey from each hive its own character,” explains Marion. This honey is used to make mead – a

delicious.

is delighted to support The Great Taste Awards. To discover more about them, what they’re about and how they’re judged, visit delicious magazine.co.uk

WHERE TO BUY IT Wenallt Hive Welsh honey products are available from selected shops and online. Visit wenallthive.wales to order direct or for stockist details

WORDS: LYNDA SEARBY. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS

How to enjoy • Stew rhubarb with ginger to make a syrup, then add the Honey Vinegar With Raspberry. • Mix with wine, vodka or sparkling water for a fruit shrub cocktail. • Try Welsh honey vinegar with raspberry in these recipes too – search for them at deliciousmagazine.co.uk

Chocolate vinegar cake with sour cherry compote Add an extra fruity kick to this decadent dessert

Burrata with balsamic strawberries Use a balanced combination of honey vinegar and honey

Sticky glazed balsamic onions with sausages Try honey vinegar to add an extra layer of depth deliciousmagazine.co.uk 123

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discoveries The best stuff we’ve tried from indie producers you need to know about

Grown-up pop Soft drinks for adults frequently disappoint (so many are too sweet). But buy Zingi Bear, a pleasingly named ‘ginger switchel’, for a summerr gathering and you might find the bucket of bottles depleting fast. It is indeed zingily refreshing with a tangy y twist. £42 for 12 x 330ml (free shipping), or see zingibear.com for stockists

At your conve i n e Ice cream in the post Got a bit of room in your freezer? Brickell’s ice cream is seriously good, made on a et farm with milk n herd of Holstein s. They deliver with the only r upside?) that m order is for tubs (£6.50 £2.99 urs are t our urite is mble. am.

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The phrase ‘frozen ready meal’ wouldn’t normally get us jumping with excitement, but we’ve found an order-online brand that tastes like home cooking. Breda Murphy has a much-loved restaurant named after her in Clitheroe, Lancashire, but her ready meals are the sort of thing she cooks for her discerning family. From £55 for three single meals and puddings plus a loaf cake, bredamurphy.co.uk

Here’s one I barbecued earlier… Some wonderful stuff happens in high-end barbecue culture – but do we all have the time or resources to sous vide a slab of beef for three days? That’s where Yorkshire chef Tommy Banks comes in. He’s done the hard work, you just finish it off. The stars of his meaty barbecue box are brined, slow-cooked beef brisket you slather in a black garlic glaze as you grill it, and short rib that’s had the same low-’n’-slow treatment. Both are table-silencingly good. £95 for two (very hungry) people including delivery, tommybanks.co.uk

COMPILED BY LES DUNN

Next-day delivery for frozen perfection

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August ESSENTIAL INFO ABOUT OUR RECIPES

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STARTERS, SIDES & NIBBLES • Courgette fries with spicy chilli mayonnaise 8 • Quick uttapam 61 MAIN COURSES Beef, lamb, pork & game • Barbecued corn and chorizo tabbouleh with pomegranate 78 • California-style burger 95 • Garlicky sausage, butter bean and tomato bake 88 • Gnocchi with bacon, peas, spinach and mozzarella 86 • Korean-inspired kimchi and fried egg burger 95 • Master burger recipe 94 • One-pan fry-up 40 • Pork and pineapple skewers 42 • Roast leg of lamb with lemon and olives and roast garlic sauce 54 • Sausage hotdogs with fried sauerkraut and gherkin ketchup mayonnaise 40 • Steak sarnie with sticky onions and blue cheese 130 • Tex-mex style cheese burger 95

Fish & seafood • Coley with beer, bacon and cabbage 24 • Cornish queen scallop rice (paella) 24 • Crispy mackerel & pea salad 31 • Hake kievs 30 • Hot-smoked salmon 111 • Mussels with sambal butter and fresh herbs 28 • Oysters with dongchimi (radish kimchi) 29 • Prawn, cucumber and beans with chilli and lime dressing 79 • Smoked trout with rocket, fennel and macadamia nuts 78

• Garden salad with basil and buttermilk ranch dressing 78 • Leek, almond and tomato galette 49 • Leftover greens, seeds and cheese tart 50 • One-pan pesto spaghetti with lemon and courgettes 89 • Pea and mint fritters with feta sauce 91 • Peppers, aubergines, onions and courgettes cooked in foil with feta 42 • Pickle-spiced chickpeas (aachari chole) 61 • Sour and spicy potatoes (alu chaat) with chutneys 58 • Tamarind aubergine curry (imli baigan curry) 60 • Wilted rainbow chard and roast garlic tart 52

Poultry • Masala chicken (masala murg) 58 • One-pan roasted paprika chicken thighs with aioli and rosemary roasties 87

SWEET THINGS • Gloria’s lemon pie 114 • Hazelnut tiramisu cheesecake 66 • Madeira cake 98 • Peach and passion fruit crumble traybake 68 • Raspberry, lime and coconut self-saucing pudding 66 • Rose and pistachio cake with cardamom toffee sauce (pista gulab) 62 • Stroopwafels with fried banana and dulce de leche 44

Vegetarian, vegan & vegetable based • Aubergine pilaf with apricots and almonds 90 • Cabbage and carrot slaw with avocado dressing 79 • Caramelised carrot tart with carrot-top salsa verde 50 • Cheese and potato pasties 92 • Chilled herb and greens soup 96 • Forest Deli’s veggie sausage rolls 106

OTHER • Peppermint teabag hot chocolate 44 • Pickled peaches 36 • Runner bean and apple chutney 118 • Seafood stock 109 • Spelt shortcrust pastry 49

Our symbols explained Indicates you can freeze all or most of the recipe. Unless stated, freeze the finished dish for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot. Vegetarian Vegan Gluten free Dairy free These recipes are suitable for special diets provided you choose the appropriate ingredients. Many items may contain hidden animal products, gluten or dairy – always check the label. Prep and cooking times All our timings include prep. Hands-on time is when you’re chopping, stirring, assembling or frying. Oven/simmering time is when you can leave the dish in the oven or on the hob or barbecue. Nutritional information Recipes are analysed for nutritional content by an expert nutritionist. Calculations may vary, depending on your choice of ingredients, and include listed ingredients only. Our suppliers Fresh eggs for our test kitchen are supplied by Clarence Court (clarencecourt.co.uk) and meat from The Ginger Pig (thegingerpig.co.uk) Prices These are correct at time of going to press. Oven temperatures We give fan oven and gas mark temperatures in our recipes. For conventional ovens without a fan, add 20°C to the fan temperature.

OUR GENERAL TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Competitions open to UK residents aged 18 and over, except employees (and their families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd or any other associated company. 3. Prizes are as offered. No cash alternatives. Subject to availability. 4. To enter, unless otherwise stated, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/ promotions and follow the instructions. No purchase necessary. One entry per household. 5. Unless specified otherwise, entry to the competitions ends 31 August 2021. 6. Entries received after the closing date will not be considered. 7. No responsibility is taken for entries lost or delayed. 8. Winners will be selected by an independent panel. The judges’ decision is final: no correspondence will be entered into. 9. Winners will be notified directly and their names listed at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions. 10. Winners agree to take part in publicity. 11. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 12. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if deemed necessary in its opinion.

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THE delicious. FOOD QUIZ

BY QUIZ-MEISTER HUGH THOMPSON

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What do you call a large sardine?

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PRIZE CROSSWORD NO. 31

Complete the puzzle, take a picture and email it to info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk for a chance to win* CROSSWORD PRIZE Win a 36-can Berczy Hard Seltzer sharer pack worth £59.95. A natural alcoholic sparkling water with no added sugar, Berczy comes in three flavours: Lemon & Lime, Passionfruit & Turmeric and Peach & Raspberry. berczydrinks.com

Across 1 Sweet, beaten egg white confection, perhaps invented in Switzerland (8) 7 Dry, crumbly sesame sweet from the Balkans and Middle East (5) 8 Waiting for _____: play involving a sparse and not very enjoyable picnic (5) 9 Rice porridge – the ultimate Chinese comfort food (6) 10 Pasta shaped like a large grain of rice (risoni in Italian) (4) 12 Spongy white matter found under the peel of citrus fruit (4) 14 Shortened name of the alkali NaHCO3 (used in baking) (6) 17 Strong pleasant smell, usually from food or drink (5) 18 Ring-shaped, boiled-then-baked type of bread (5) 19 Breads from the Indian subcontinent, made without raising agents (8)

Down 1 Large, sweet fleshy fruit from the gourd family (5) 2 Hand-held utensil for squeezing the juice from lemons (6) 3 Cheffy term (French) for broth used to poach seafood (4) 4 Cow offal rarely eaten these days – also known as ‘elder’ (5) 5 These protein-packed legumes are also known as garbanzo beans (9) 6 Filled Italian bread – liable to erupt... with molten cheese and tomato (9) 11 A morsel or a small tasty piece of food (6) 13 If you have a sweet one, you’ll like chocolates and puddings (5) 15 Area in Scotland and also type of small beef cattle (5) 16 Maligned insect – it actually kills pests and pollinates fruit and flowers (4) ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD NO. 29: ACROSS 1 Galangal 7 Rhode 8 Beano 9 Weevil 10 Beer 12 Cure 14 Humble 17 Anise 18 Skirt 19 Tamarind DOWN 1 Goose 2 Liebig 3 Nibs 4 Agave 5 Brown crab 6 Courgette 11 Muesli 13 Raita 15 Blind 16 Feta

126 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

a) Babylonian Code of Hammurabi, c1800BC b) Bavarian Beer Purity Law, 1516 c) UK’s Beerhouse Act, 1830

The Mexican holy trinity refers to what in cooking? a) Tequila, salt & lime b) Cumin, coriander & garlic c) Pasillo, ancho & guajillo chillies

The drink ‘punch’ is so-called because...

a) It will knock you out b) It comes from ‘panch’, the Indian for five (ingredients) c) It was served to the crowd at Punch & Judy shows

Ciabatta, the Italian bread, means...

a) Loofah b) Sleeve c) Slipper

What’s the key item in Nantua sauce?

Why does champagne get you drunk so fast?

a) Crayfish b) Local red wine c) Snails

a) It’s stronger than it looks b) The bubbles help you absorb the alcohol faster c) It’s a party so you drink quicker

Never eat a mussel that remains closed after cooking. True or false?

Who said, “If I had the choice between smoked salmon and tinned salmon, I’d have tinned”? a) Harold Wilson, PM b) Nigel Slater c) John West

Launched in the 1930s, the PG in PG Tips stood for... a) Prime Grade (tips are best) b) Pre-Gest (it was thought to aid digestion) c) Pradesh Grown (tea region)

ANSWERS 1) A pilchard (pilchards caught in Cornwall were rebranded ‘Cornish sardines’ 25 years ago as pilchards had a bad reputation) 2) a (beers mentioned included wheat beers, barley beers, black beers and even export beers. The Bavarian law was aimed at preventing wheat for bread being diverted to beer. The UK law liberalised brewing) 3) c 4) b (panch phoran is an Indian five spice mix) 5) c (ciabatta was invented in 1982 to combat the popularity of the French baguette) 6) a 7) b 8) False. It should still be cooked and edible, but the adductor muscles have locked. The myth is believed to have come from Jane Grigson’s 1973 Fish Book (what is true, however, is that you shouldn’t eat a mussel that won’t close when tapped before being cooked) 9) a 10) b

CRYPTIC CLUE WIN A £50 CO-OP GIFT CARD

£50

GIFT CA

RD For your chance to win £50 to spend in store, solve the cryptic clu on the magazine spine, then email you , with your name, full UK address and phone number, to info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk by 31 August 2021*. Solution to May’s clue: jersey royals

CROSSWORD BY HUGH THOMPSON. CRYPTIC CLUE BY LES DUNN. *FOR TS&CS SEE P125

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me time.

Recipe for one

Steak sarnie with sticky onions and blue cheese Serves 1 Hands-on time 30-35 min The particles that stick to the bottom of the pan after frying are called the ‘fond’. This adds extra flavour to the onions, so don’t waste it. KNOWHOW

• 1 British bavette, rump or sirloin steak (about 150g) • Vegetable oil for brushing • Knob of unsalted butter • 1 small red onion, sliced • 2 thyme sprigs • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar • 1 tbsp dark brown sugar • 1 tbsp good quality mayonnaise • ½ tbsp dijon/wholegrain mustard • ½ tsp runny honey

Bring out your inner huntergatherer (at the cooking stage, at least) with this meaty treat. Before you take a bite, you’re permitted to let out a small roar

• 2 slices bread, toasted • Handful leafy greens • 20-30g stilton/blue cheese 1 Set a heavy-based frying pan over a high heat. Pat the steak dry with kitchen paper, then brush with a little oil and season with a pinch of salt. Cook the steak for 3-4 minutes on each side for medium (or less/ more until cooked to your liking), then leave to rest in a warm place. 2 Add a splash of water to the pan, then scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to lift any charred goodness (see Know-how). Turn the heat down to low-medium, add the butter and, once melted, stir in the

onion, thyme and a little salt. Cook, stirring regularly, for 10-15 minutes until softened and beginning to colour. Stir in the vinegar and sugar, then cook for 5 minutes more until reduced and sticky. 3 Meanwhile, mix the mayo, mustard and honey in a small bowl. Slice the rested steak into strips. Spread the toast with the mustard mayo, then top one slice with the leaves, steak and onions (discard the thyme). Crumble over the cheese, then top with the other slice and serve. Per serving 832kcals, 46.2g fat (16.7g saturated), 49.4g protein, 50.2g carbs (28g sugars), 2.4g salt, 9.1g fibre

NEXT MONTH Well hello again, knickerbocker glory! 130 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: LAUREN MILLER

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