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A UG

THE BEST AND BOLDEST FALL FASHION

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ADUT AKECH MODEL ON A MISSION

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Double Wear Makeup Goes way beyond the match with shades that enhance the unique beauty of your skin. Luxurious, cashmere matte finish. So breathable, so comfortable. Stays flawless and color true. Won’t look grey on deeper skintones. 24-hour wear. *Source: The NPD Group/U.S. Prestige Beauty Total Measured Market, Makeup Unit Sales, 12 Months Ending April 2021.

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COCKTAIL Chatter

Behold the buzziest launches everyone will be talking about this month.

JEAN GENIE In case you haven’t noticed, Irina Shayk has a pretty impressive street-style game, often involving the perfect pair of jeans. So it seems only natural that a denim brand would come calling: This season, the supermodel makes her debut as the face of sustainably-minded label DL1961. The NYC-based brand, whose wares are made using clean dyes, minimal water, and recycled denim, will also be making its first foray into the athleisure realm (seen on Shayk above). Crop top sweatshirt, DL1961, $139, dl1961.com.

The weather on South Korea’s Jeju Island, where AmorePacific grows green tea for its Vintage Single Extract Essence, was especially sublime for flora back in 2017. So the skin care brand did something special with that year’s harvest: It fermented the leaves for 1,000 days (versus its usual 100). This extra-potent brew of antioxidants has been bottled in 200 handmade golden vessels for the U.S. market, making the antiaging treatment one of the rarest on the planet. AmorePacific Vintage Single Extract Essence 1000 Days Edition, $360, amorepacific.com.

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TH ROUGH TH E FLOWE R 2 (19 73) BY JUDY C HICAGO: C OU RTE SY OF TH E FINE A RTS M US EU M S OF SA N FRA N C IS C O, DIA N E GELON , AND DONALD W OODMAN/ARTISTS RIGHTS S OC IE T Y; C H E T LO MODE L: PHOTOGRA P HED BY M YA I A N THON Y ( ST Y LED BY DA M A RIS FLORE S ); RE MAINING IMAGE S: C OU RTE SY OF TH E BRANDS.

OFF THE WALL San Francisco’s de Young Museum is back in business IRL with an impressive fall lineup. On our must-see list? A retrospective on pioneering feminist artist Judy Chicago, a favorite of Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri. The exhibit will feature approximately 150 works that span Chicago’s career, from her early work in the 1960s with the California-based Light and Space Movement to more recent projects that grapple with mortality and environmental destruction. Chicago’s Through the Flower 2 (1973), deyoung.famsf.org.

BRIGHT YOUNG THING It seems appropriate that Chet Lo’s spiky knitwear should find fans in SZA, Doja Cat, and fellow millennials embracing the fashions of decades past. The Central Saint Martins grad’s stretchy, sculptural separates call to mind 1990s popcorn shirts, though the designer cites vintage Japanese films and comics as his primary influences. The New York native is also committed to making a lasting social impact, recently raffling off a dress to benefit the nonprofit Stop AAPI Hate. Gown, Chet Lo, $3,556, chetlo.com.

SCENTS AND SENSIBILITY

6 TREASURE

Liis’s three debut fragrances may be formulated without preservatives, dyes, or phthalates, but they are full of inspired notes. Bo is a heady mix of tobacco, cedarwood, incense, and warm vanilla; Studied marries fresh pear, carrot, and orris with musky ambrette and Ambroxan; and Rose Struck stacks matcha tea, tangerine, and cassis atop a base of rose centifolia. Equally irresistible? The clean, design-forward bottles, which instantly elevate any vanity. Liis eau de parfums, $165 each, liisfragrances.com.

NO.428

August Volume XXXVI Number 10

12 TRENDING 20 THE FEED 54 EDITOR’S LETTER 55 NINA’S EDIT 56 NEW ARRIVALS

Front Row 60 SUPPORTING CAST

Véronique Hyland looks behind the scenes at the creation of Hermès’s storied handbags. 62 NEW SCHOOL

Designer Romeo Hunt puts a new spin on Tommy Hilfiger classics, and Jacquemus partners with Mytheresa on a bold new collection.

Accessories 64 ROARING TWENTIES

Naomi Rougeau revisits the era that inspired Louis Vuitton’s Pure V high jewelry collection. 65 HIGHER EDUCATION

Loafers have gone from school to cool. 66 RIPE FOR THE PICKING

A high jewelry masterpiece from Hermès shines against a fruitful backdrop. By Naomi Rougeau 67 READ ALL ABOUT IT

This season, the logo is king.

Shop 68 FALL FORWARD

The return of autumn brings with it new opportunities for style.

Beauty A once-verboten shade of eye shadow is picture-perfect in the hands of Pat McGrath. 74 GROWING PAINS

Margaux Anbouba finds out why more women are losing their hair—and what can be done about it. 76 LOOKING ON THE BRIGHT SIDE

ELLE editors share their favorite summer beauty picks. JACKET, $7,200, EARRINGS, $525, CHANEL.

MAT T HEW KR I STALL ; FO R DETAI LS, S E E SH OP P IN G G UI DE.

73 OUT OF THE BLUE

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JACKET, BUSTIER TOP, DIOR. BRIEFS, NAKEDCASHMERE, $95. FISHNETS, WOLFORD, $61. RINGS, H&H—HOLLY SILIUS & HANNAH WARNER.

78 BEAUTY GENIUS: TYRON MACHHAUSEN

Janell M. Hickman-Kirby speaks to the A-list makeup artist about making red-carpet magic. 80 EATING FOR TWO

How coaches are providing new support for those in eating disorder treatment. By Kate Siber

Perspectives 83 HOLLYWOOD RISING: ADDISON RAE

Rose Minutaglio talks to the TikTok star about her big onscreen break.

84 K-POP CONQUERED THE WORLD. NOW WHAT?

Maria Sherman explores the multibilliondollar industry that is Korean pop and shows how it’s shifted the whole face of music. 86 MEGAN’S ACCOUNT

How a sex trafficking survivor and a professor are using Instagram to help support victims. By John H. Tucker

Fashion 91 CITY OF ANGELS

Kendall Jenner rediscovers the joy of dressing up on the streets of her hometown, L.A. Photographed by Zoey Grossman. Styled by Alex White

106 SHE’S ELECTRIC

THE COVER LOOKS

Model Adut Akech is taking the world by storm without forgetting her refugee upbringing. By Roxanne Fequiere

Kendall Jenner wears a dress from Celine by Hedi Slimane and rings from Bulgari. Jenner wears a sweater, shirt, trousers, and belt from Etro. For Jenner’s makeup look, try Brow Stylist Frame and Set in Deep Brunette, Magic Skin Beautifier B.B. Cream in Fair, and Infallible Longwear Blush Shaping Stick in Cheeky Dimension. All, L’Oréal Paris. Photographed by Zoey Grossman (styled by Alex White; hair by Panos Papandrianos for Oribe; makeup by Holly Silius for Nars; manicure by Betina Goldstein at the Wall Group;

122 PEAK PERFORMANCE

With a lead role in the much-anticipated Gossip Girl reboot, Ugandan-Canadian Whitney Peak speaks with Alexis Okeowo about preparing herself for overnight superstardom. Photographed by Matthew Kristall. Styled by Rebecca Dennett 132 SHOPPING GUIDE 134 HOROSCOPE

produced by Zach Crawford at Crawford and Co.). Adut Akech wears a dress from Prada and a ring from Harry Winston. For Akech’s makeup look, try The Illuminator Radiant Perfecting Primer + Finisher, Featherlight Brow Enhancer in Black, and Pure Color Envy Flatters All Cheek Color in Rebellious Rose. All, Estée Lauder. Photographed by Chris Colls (styled by Alex White; hair by Hos Hounkpatin and makeup by Frank B., both at the Wall Group; manicure by Honey at Exposure NY; set design by Cooper Vasquez at Frank Reps; produced by Philippa Serlin at Serlin Associates).

ZO EY G RO S S MA N ; FO R DETA ILS, S EE S HO PP I N G G U ID E.

August Volume XXXVI Number 10

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@CASTANEROFFICIAL

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@LUISABECCARIA (AVAILABLE AT ARTEMEST.COM)

@ANNAMASONLONDON

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BLOWIN’From INtheTHE WIND tabletop to the runway, designers are finding inspiration in the BREEZY APPEAL of vintage linens.

Some of the best armchair traveling around can be found on designer Luisa Beccaria’s Instagram account. She and her family have spent the past year at their centuries-old castle in Castelluccio, Sicily, harvesting oranges, olives, and almonds—and gathering creative fuel for her dreamy frocks and tabletop items. Beccaria is not alone in embracing the summery charm of farm-fresh vintage table linens this season. Spanish home brand Los Encajeros offers elevated, embroidered takes on the motif. And designers have made it look just as appealing on the runway—from Fendi, which trimmed a classic white trench with ajour embroidery, to Anna Mason, who channeled a classic gingham tablecloth into the perfect sundress. Looking for an extra excuse to kick up your heels? Malone Souliers’ and Castañer’s embellished mules and timeless espadrilles will help you channel the carefree vibe.—NAOMI ROUGEAU

TABL E S ET T I N G, BE C CARIA W ITH MOM, AND GL AS SWARE : C OURTE SY OF LUISA BE C CARIA; FE NDI STITC H TRE NC H C OAT: CAS P ER S EJ ERS EN ; CA RIN A ES PA DRILLE W EDGE: CO U RT ESY O F CASTAÑ E R; VE RAC RU Z BLOUS E AND OAXACA HAT: C OU RTE SY OF KOLONAKI MADRID; MAURE E N FLORAL-EM BROIDERED M U LE: C OU RTESY OF M A LON E S OU LIERS; AN N A M ASO N G IN G HA M LILY DRE S S: C OURTE SY OF ANNA MAS ON; S CALLOP E MBROIDE RE D E S CAMAS C OASTE RS: C OU RTESY OF LOS EN CA J EROS.

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ICONICALLY YOURS “The Tank is a temple. A temple of good taste. For over 100 years, the Tank has remained timeless,” says designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Throughout time, celebrities have fallen in love with one (or many) of the seven iconic pieces from the Cartier collections. Here, we recount the history of the brand’s MOST-COVETED JEWELRY AND WATCH DESIGNS.

1-Jean Cocteau: © Luc Fournol - Photo12 / 2-Romy Schneider: © Everett Collection Bridgeman Images

1917

“I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear,” acclaimed artist Andy Warhol. Several years later, French actress Catherine Deneuve followed suit with the perfect accessory to cated glamour. The NK WATCH boasts rectangular, geometric,

1-Andy Warhol: © Arnold Newman Properties Getty Images. Used with permission from The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / 2-Catherine Deneuve: © J.J. Lapeyronnie

Louis Cartier fulfills the wish of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont: to be able to tell the time on his pocket watch in-flight, without taking his hands off the controls. Thus, the first modern watch designed and intended to be worn on the wrist was born. With its square shape and curved edges, the CARTIER SANTOS WATCH revolutionized watchmaking, offering an alternative to circular watches of the time.

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ANNABELLE WALLIS

the power of now

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TABLE OF CONTENTS ELLE EDITS 6 PORTRAIT Icons for legends… and vice versa

7 IN CONVERSATION WITH Ella Balinska

8 CELEBRITY Annabelle Wallis, the power of now

ELLE SHOPPING 14 JEWELRY BOXES Think inside the box

15 WATCH BOXES Watch it!

ELLE CULTURE 17 BOOKS On the art of reading

ELLE SOCIETY 18 EMOTIONS Defining your own legacy

ELLE FASHION 20 JEWELRY & WATCHES A celebration of time

ELLE GOOD LIVING 25 TRAVEL 7 Architectural gems

26 PRIVATE LIFE Pieces to last a lifetime

Cartier Ambassador Annabelle Wallis wears Cartier Juste un Clou and Love bracelets, Cartier Love, Trinity and Juste un Clou rings, and an Alaïa bralette and skirt © Tom Munro

CONTRIBUTORS

Tom Munro, Thiemo Sander (Photographers), Déborah Dutrain, Sasa Thomann (Fashion Editors), Virginie Dolata, Lotte Jeffs, Michèle Fitoussi, Georgina Johnston-Watt, Violette Rostand, Elise Webber (Copywriting and Interviews), Halley Brisker, Mickael Jauneau, Wendy Rowe (Hair & Makeup Artists), Michelle Humphrey, Kamel (Manicurists), Mo Li/Agence Mademoiselle (Model), JR Associés, 2BManagement, Creative Blood (Productions) Editorial and Creative Direction: Virginie Dolata. Art Direction: Katia Simon.

CATHERINE DENEUVE The French actress was just 20 years old when her film Les Parapluies de Cherbourg won the Palme d’Or at the 1964 Cannes Film Festival. To celebrate, she bought herself the classic Baignoire de Cartier. A few years later, she set her sights on another Cartier creation, the Tank. A perfect match, if we do say so ourselves.

ALBERTO SANTOS-DUMONT This aviation pioneer shared a challenge with friend Louis Cartier: He couldn’t tell time with his pocket watch in-flight without letting go of the controls. So, in 1904, Cartier designed the Santos, the first modern watch intended to be worn on one’s wrist.

MUHAMMAD ALI A heavyweight boxing champion wearing such a delicate watch might seem paradoxical, but Muhammad Ali, born Cassius Marcellus Clay Jr., winner of multiple world championships, was fascinated by the elegance of Tank.

TINA TURNER Tina Turner’s hits “Let’s Stay Together” and “What’s Love Got To Do With It” are as legendary as the singer herself. She has always had a soft spot for the Love bracelet by Cartier, which she wears here in a photoshoot with Michel Comte.

CHARLOTTE RAMPLING Charlotte Rampling first wore her Tank watch at Cannes in 1970, embodying the casual chicness of the time. Still a loyal wearer, the inspiring actress continues to make brave and unexpected career choices, proudly defying convention.

JEAN COCTEAU The author of Les Enfants Terribles never left the cult favorite, sculptural Trinity ring at home. He wore two on his pinkie finger and described it as a triple Saturnian ring, the three types of gold representing love, fidelity, and friendship.

ANDY WARHOL The king of pop art was a fan of watches. In particular, he never put down his Cartier Tank watch. “I don’t wear the Tank watch because it tells me the time,” he once said. “I wear the Tank because it is the watch to wear.”

Some of history’s most legendary film stars, artists, geniuses and athletes have fallen for Cartier’s collections. Marking a moment in time and defying the decades, each icon has a story.

ICONS FOR LEGENDS … and vice versa

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ROMY SCHNEIDER Her immense and intense talent, iconic beauty, and incomparably chic style forged her legendary status in Hollywood. In the 1962 film Boccace ’70 directed by Luchino Visconti, the star dressed head-to-toe in Chanel with one exception: her own Trinity ring. —V.D.

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IN CONVERSATION WITH

ELLA BALINSKA © Courtesy of Cartier

The 24-year-old English actress and former Charlie’s Angel excels in the art of combat on screen and in life. Below, this elusive panther-woman and world ambassador for Cartier reveals her true nature between two shoots.

What time did you get up this morning? 4:50 a.m.

What watch are you currently wearing? The Panthère de Cartier watch.

What’s your state of mind today? Motivated.

Always late or too early? I’d rather be too early, but I tend to find myself stressfully on time.

Who or what did you think of first when you woke up? What hurts after yesterday’s stunts. Do you have a pet? Watson, adopted through @loveunderdogs.

The place where you feel best? The moment just after cameras start rolling but before the director calls action; that’s the actor’s twilight zone.

for themself, too. Someone who isn’t afraid to fail but has high expectations of themself. Someone I should be proud of despite making mistakes and who often gives themself a hard time! The book you will read tonight? Homer’s The Odyssey translated by Emily Wilson.

An obsession? Video games. I’ve always been a huge gamer.

The craziest thing you’ve done or will do? Taking emotional risks and making interesting, bold choices personally and professionally.

What can you not resist? Fashion and a really great script.

Your favorite cult film? The Grand Budapest Hotel directed by Wes Anderson.

Your way of unwinding? Listening to music with my headphones on full volume.

Museum you want to visit? The Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

The song you listen to over and over again? “Rusty Nails” by Moderat.

To get confidence... I turn to my friends and family. I am eternally grateful for their support.

Your favorite city? Barcelona.

The garment you are wearing today? I’m glad that I’m about to refer to my hoodie and track pants as a garment. As my amazing friend and stylist Jason Bolden would say: “Casual.”

Your favorite lunch? I’m a big fan of a poke bowl.

The jewel you’re dreaming about? The 610-diamond Panthère de Cartier necklace I wore to the UK premiere of Charlie’s Angels. What a night! Gold or silver? White gold. Your first watch? Casio Baby-G. Hello, fellow ’90s kids!

When you look in a mirror, what do you see? Someone who never fails to surprise me and is always learning. Someone who cares for others very deeply and is beginning to care deeply

Tell us a secret. It wouldn’t be a secret if I told you. Your last dream? That’s the secret. —V.D.

CARTIER Tank watch CARTIER Juste Un Clou and Love bracelets CARTIER Love earrings CARTIER Trinity and Love rings CHANEL jacket

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Annabelle Wallis

The Power of Now Actress and Cartier ambassador Annabelle Wallis has a passionate spirit that she brings not only to the complex characters she plays, but also to everyday life. Here, she talks about authenticity, self-awareness, and how jewelry becomes her armor. Photography TOM MUNRO Styling SASA THOMANN

Fans of the iconic Peaky Blinders series may know her as Tommy Shelby’s one true love, Grace Burgess, but Annabelle Wallis’s extensive filmography began long before when her uncle, Oscar-nominated actor Richard Harris, inspired her to act. In 2009 she landed her first major role in the series 24 Hours, followed by The Tudors and X-Men: First Class with Michael Fassbender. Next, Wallis faced a terrifying doll in Annabelle, followed by King Arthur: Legend of the Sword, and alongside Tom Cruise, she solved the mystery of The Mummy. Now, at the age of 36, she has a portfolio of roles as impressive as it is prolific. Born in Oxford, Wallis now lives between Los Angeles and London. When she isn’t working, she likes to keep active: ‘’I do a lot of horseback riding, motocross, tennis, basketball... even paintball!’’she said. A huge fashion fan, Wallis is often seen in the front rows at fashion shows, and has said, ‘’I have quite a European style, because I’m English, I grew up in Portugal, and I used to spend my holidays in Spain or France.’’ As soon as cinemas reopen, she’ll be onscreen in powerful performances as the lead in Malignant, a horror film by James Wan (the producer of Annabelle), in the comedy Silent Night with Lily-Rose Depp, and in Boss Level, on Hulu, alongside Frank Grillo and Mel Gibson. Even with a roster full of upcoming films, the Panthère de Cartier ambassador manages her time with elegance and grace.

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CARTIER Trinity and Love bracelets CARTIER Love rings CARTIER Juste un Clou bracelet, diamond version CARTIER Juste un Clou necklace SPORTMAX dress and bra ALAÏA sunglasses

You grew up as a British child in Portugal. Has that influenced you as an adult? It definitely did. And with that came a great understanding of ‘’belonging’’ that has stayed with me throughout my life in terms of wanting to remain curious about myself and where I fit. Living in a foreign country taught me as an adult to ask questions and be inquisitive about why I feel like I don’t fit in, and where should I fit in? Where do I want to be? It gave me a sense of needing to find my place and figure out who I was. I guess I learned to anchor myself in my personality and the essence of who I was, rather than attaching myself to an external structure. Your parents traveled a lot with you when you were younger. What do you see now as the greatest benefits of that lifestyle? It gave me this spherical way of thinking because I had to learn other languages and be put in uncomfortable situations, and in those situations, the aperture of the way you see life shifts. It has given me a lot in terms of the way I view my work situations and the way I interact with other people, and that’s benefited my work because I can observe and adapt. What do you admire most about your parents? My mother had an epiphany when my brother and I were born and we were living in Oxfordshire. And she was like, ‘’If I don’t change my life, you know, it will remain the same. I’ll look out this window, and I’ll be the same in six years.’’ So, she looked at a wall map and randomly pointed to Portugal and said to my dad: ‘’I’m going there!’’ Both my parents had a spirit of ‘’What’s over there? Let’s find out. Let’s have an adventure.’’ I respect them immeasurably for their courage and their curiosity. What do you wish you could have told yourself as a young person that you know now? That if you allow it, it will occur. It’s happening with or without you. How did starring in Peaky Blinders change your life? I had such a strong instinct I was going to get the part. I so believed I was right for it. There was something in me that was very like the character. And it was the first time that I had read a woman as I see women, which is complex. It was the first time I was seen as a performer in the way I wanted to be seen. From that point, I really knew that I wanted to seek out female characters who I felt were being told or represented in an honest way, which is dark, light, devious, lovable, sexual, mothering—all those facets. I think that was a turning point in my career of ‘’If you follow this path, that’s what is out there for you.’’ Have you witnessed a shift in power after the #MeToo movement? There has definitely been a shift. And there is definitely a way to go. I think that the shift is a recognition in all women that we have a duty to each other to move into our lives in a way that benefits other women as a collective. And I think the movement woke everyone up to the sense of responsibility—the reality is my choices affect girls coming into the industry. So, I have to really take that responsibility and mean what I say. Stepping up is hard; it’s hard to have the confidence to ask for what you want and pursue it. But I have definitely noticed a change reflected in my friends and myself. And I feel led by the fire of hearing these horrendous stories of things that happened to people right there next to me, and I want to be part of the change. What has your experience of lockdown been this past year? Have you had any epiphanies? I really slowed down, and I got an opportunity to think very deeply about a lot of big things and how little matters, really, beyond family, friends, and my health. We’re encouraged to join this rat race. And we have all these things to do and achieve. And actually, fulfillment comes with so little. And that was very profound. As for the day-to-day experience of lockdown, I did

a lot of dancing with my ‘’partner in crime.‘’ We became chefs; we read; we listened to podcasts (we were incredibly fortunate in that we knew our families were safe). It was an amazing opportunity to just stop for once and think about what it was we really wanted to do. Do you think this ‘’slowing down’’ will continue after the pandemic? Or will we all just go back to our old ways? I think there will be a clear division between people who took the opportunity to move into a deeper awareness of themselves on this earth and take on the responsibility of what it means to exist and be alive… and those who didn’t. Who do you consider your icons? Firstly, my mother. For so many reasons but specifically her decision to travel and be brave and start a life somewhere new with her children, which has given me and my brother so much. I look at all mothers as iconic. Then, I’m obsessed with Carl Jung. I think he’s an icon in that he rejected a chosen path. Also, the scholar Rumi. And, Oprah, because of the sheer intention with which she lives her life. Any time I’ve experienced any strife or need a moment of clarity, I’ll listen to her podcast and it will change my perspective.

“Cartier is a constant in a world of inconsistencies.” Could you describe the journey that you’ve been on with your personal style? I was always quite shy growing up. I remember choosing clothes and then second-guessing myself, saying, ‘’Oh no, it’s too this or it’s too that or it’s too sexy, or you’re not giving off the right impression.‘’ And I realized that for a long time, I was using fashion to hide aspects of myself, and now I don’t care. I want to express myself in the way I want to express myself. I always thought you had to have one style, and I could never do that. One minute I was a tomboy, then I was super elegant — every day was different. And now I fully embrace that. I enjoy fashion much more. What was your approach to fashion during the periods you’ve been stuck at home this past year? My partner says I’m getting more and more eccentric! But I realized how much I missed dressing for events, so I went online and bought all these amazing vintage pieces. At 5 p.m. I would make us dress up and pretend we were going to a cocktail bar. Do you ever see fashion and jewelry as a kind of armor? Yes, it’s definitely something that you use to show people how you’re feeling on a subconscious level. I mean, when I’m in a business meeting, there’s a strength that has to come in with me. I’m wearing a tailored jacket; I’m wearing jewelry. I want to make a statement. My mum has always said that the way you dress is also out of respect for the person who’s receiving you. So, if someone invites me to something or I go to an event, I make sure I am arriving in respect of their gesture. I remember working with Tom Cruise on The Mummy, and he’d come by my trailer to see what outfit I had turned up for work in each day before I went into costume, because I would always make an effort. What does the Cartier Panthère collection mean to you? First, Cartier is such an iconic Maison, and it’s steeped in so much history and integrity. It is a constant in a world of inconsistencies. When I think of the Panthère, I think of the ferocity of spirit, the independence, the sensuality, the movement, the elegance. But then there’s this other side of ferocious intention, passion, and this ability to devour life! –L.J.

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CARTIER Juste un Clou necklace CARTIER Juste un Clou earrings CARTIER Juste un Clou bracelets CARTIER Trinity bracelet CARTIER Trinity and Love rings SPORTMAX skirt, top, and t-shirt

CARTIER Juste un Clou and Love bracelets CARTIER Love earrings CARTIER Trinity and Love rings CARTIER Ballon Bleu watch ALAÏA skirt and bodysuit

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THINK INSIDE THE BOX WITH CHIC DESIGNS AND PLUSH INTERIORS, THESE LUXE JEWELRY BOXES WILL KEEP YOUR TRINITY RING (AND MORE) SAFE. ’ By DEBORAH DUTRAIN

GRAPHIC Entrelacés de CARTIER jewelry box. Medium model in lacquered wood, 10 coats of lacquering, interior lined with red fabric, available in two sizes.

REFINED

RETRO

ROMANTIC

ARTISTIC

VINTAGE CHIC

Silver-plated jewelry box, RALPH LAUREN

Marquetry jewelry box with gold metal finish and velvet interior, SILVIA FURMANOVICH on NET-A-PORTER

“Beauvais” jewelry box in khaki-green velvet with gold brass, AERIN on MATCHESFASHION

Ceramic jewelry box with cabochon "sculpture," ANISSA KERMICHE

Jewelry box in white and yellow gold, encrusted with diamonds and engraved "Rigato," BUCCELLATI

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WATCH IT! SIMPLE AND TIMELESS, THESE BOXES WILL PROVIDE A PROTECTIVE CASE FOR YOUR ICONIC WATCHES. ’ By DEBORAH DUTRAIN

SOPHISTICATED Entrelacés de CARTIER three watch and cufflink box. Large model in lacquered wood with gray fabric interior.

GREEN British Racing Green watch case in full-grain, vegetabletanned leather with gold leaf finish, and interior trim in Hooker's Green, OCARAT

SMART

ELEGANT

MONOGRAMMED

CONNECTED

Sanderson leather watch case made of two cylinders for optimal storage. Ideal for traveling, STOW LONDON

“Savoy” watch case in burl wood, WOLF 1834

Watch case in monogrammed canvas with Paris Blue scales and leather finishes, FAURE’ LE PAGE

Watch tower with sycamore and gray birch veneer, features battery or USB winding mechanism, DAVID LINLEY

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GIO PONTI By Salvatore Licitra, Stefano Casciani, Lisa Licitra Ponti, Brian Kish, Fabio Marino, Karl Kolbitz – Taschen Books Here’s your chance to welcome a bit of Ponti’s famed work into your home. Created in collaboration with Gio Ponti Archives founder Salvatore Licitra, this book explores the celebrated Italian architect and designer’s extraordinary vision, both visually and through essays by his daughter Lisa Licitra Ponti and designer Stefano Casciani. OSCAR NIEMEYER By Michael Kimmelman – Assouline Editions

A rare gift for architecture enthusiasts, this limited-edition, handmade book is part of Assouline’s top-tier Ultimate Collection (the book comes with white gloves and a canvas bag). It takes a 360-degree look at the career of the legendary architect, whose embrace of modernism transformed architecture, and includes contributions from other modern legends like Tadao Ando, Santiago Calatrava, Frank Gehry, and the late Zaha Hadid.

CIPULLO: MAKING JEWELRY MODERN By Vivienne Becker – Assouline Editions Aldo Cipullo was the most glamorous of jewelry designers. In 1969, he joined Cartier and designed some of the most avant-garde and timeless creations, including the Love bracelet and the Juste un Clou collection. This book, filled with photos of Cipullo's creations and his family, along with memorable anecdotes, tells the story of one of the most innovative and enigmatic talents in modern jewelry.

THE ART OF READING DISCOVER OUR 7 FAVORITE BOOKS, NOT ONLY TO DISPLAY ON YOUR COFFEE TABLE –G.J.W. DECORATIVE ART 60S By Charlotte and Peter Fiell – Taschen Books

A much-needed dose of electric joy, this look at the wild and artistically fruitful decade covers all manner of décor, from textiles and lighting to interiors representing pop art, the hippie movement, and everything in between. This exploration of design also mines the social and political movements at play during the turbulent period. CHINA: THE NEW CREATIVE POWER IN ARCHITECTURE By Chris Uffelen – Braun Publishing Editions This book explores a wide range of styles and buildings designed by Chinese architects. When it comes to architecture, China is currently one of the most innovative and experimental countries in the world thanks to its creative use of materials, forms, functions, and timely construction, with technology and tradition also playing important roles.

PORTRAITS OF THE NEW ARCHITECTURE 2 By Richard Schulman – Assouline Editions

This companion to the popular Portraits of New Architecture is filled with sketches, designs, and photographs of some of the greatest architects working today, including David Adjaye, Bjarke Ingels, Jeanne Gang, Dominique Perrault, Annabelle Selldorf, and Alvaro Siza, along with an introduction by Vanity Fair architecture critic Paul Goldberger. THE ART MUSEUM IN MODERN TIMES By Charles Saumarez Smith – Thames & Hudson Editions How have art museums changed over the last century? And what is their future in the face of the current global pandemic? As the former head of three of Britain’s leading art institutions, Charles Saumarez Smith knows all about the importance of consideration, curation, and individual experience in a museum. Let’s all get back to visiting museums!

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DEFINING YOUR OWN LEGACY We all have memories that remind us of someone close–be it family, friends, or people with whom we share a connection. In the same way, passing on your Cartier Tank watch or Trinity ring can be a treasured family tradition, but it’s also the gift of a memory–a token left behind as a fond gesture, or a great mark of affection. No matter how valuable it is, an object is nothing without the people who love it–however precious it may be. What matters most is the story it tells as it’s passed through generations. DURING A FRIENDLY DINNER, I caught a glimmering glimpse of the diamond that my friend Sophie was wearing on her ring finger. When asked about it, she replied, “This ring belonged to my grandmother. Every time I look at it, I think of her.” Her grandmother had passed away three months prior. She was a sophisticated woman, quite different from my very athletic friend. Yet, they had a very strong bond.“My daughter often asks me about this ring,” Sophie added. “Our conversations bring to life memories of my grandmother, who originally owned it. My daughter looks just like her. She knows one day I’ll pass it on to her.” BUILDING A LEGACY. Legacy and inheritance are two very familiar words. Each evoke continuity and the importance of social bonds. Where inheritance is founded in law, legacy is something more intangible. The legacy of a treasured object is a story, a recognition, a tradition, and an emotion. Originating from the Latin transmissio, or “the ambassador,” it recalls a significance and sense of responsibility that spans meaning and time. Whether a grandparent’s cherished gift to mark an important milestone or the physical reminder of a special moment, legacies chronicle an emotional journey. Where inheritance is coolly dispassionate and often rooted in trauma, conflict, and detail, explains psychoanalyst Martine Beccaria, legacy offers a shared value in what really matters. WHILE MANY MAY NOT INHERIT JEWELRY, ALMOST EVERYONE HAS A MEMORY of loved ones filled with an emotional charge. Often, transmissions are retransmissions. ENDURING TOKENS OF LOVE. In France, under the old regime, jewelry–which was seen as a form of feminine currency–symbolized bonds of affection, intimacy, friendship and love. In 1671, the famous letter writer Madame de Sévigné sent a jewel to her daughter, imploring in “the hope that this gift will make you remember me and the excessive tenderness I have for you.” Centuries later, as mother-daughter (and parent-child) relationships have endured, so have the ways in

which we express them. As psychoanalyst JeanPierre Winter writes, “It is not the object in itself which matters, but the story […] which very often says a lot about the relationship.”1 FROM FATHER TO SON. While less grounded in historical custom, fathers typically gift jewelry in the form of watches, which have become symbols of occasion and shared bond. Marking a coming of age, academic success, religious or civil majority, or even marriage, they herald the recipient’s maturation and experience. Paul, a vintage watch owner, tells the tale of his father, who gifted the watch to him when he graduated from high school. He will give it to his son on the same occasion. The tradition began with Paul’s great-grandfather, the family’s firstborn male. When pointed out that his daughter was the eldest, Paul replied that she would be passed down a ring that belonged to her mother, thus creating a new ritual. “DO INANIMATE OBJECTS HAVE A SOUL?” the French poet Alphonse de Lamartine once asked. They might, but only the ones we ascribe to them. “Whatever its value, an object is nothing without us. Even ‘precious’ is only a metaphor,” proclaims Martine Beccaria. Take one of her patients who, after suffering a major fire in her country house, had one unrelenting wish: to recover her prized jewelry box. Fortunately, the damage was contained and the box was found, with the contents appraised for insurance purposes. Half of the heirloom jewels were inexpensive costume jewelry, which made no difference. For her, their value was to simply “shine in her family.” WHAT SHOULD WE DO WITH THE HISTORY OF THE OBJECTS WE RECEIVE? Do the feelings of donors and recipients matter? “Objects have always been transported, sold, bartered, stolen, found, and lost. What matters is the way their complex history is transmitted,” says Edmund de Waal, an English ceramist and author of The Hare with Amber Eyes. 2 His book tells the story of the Ephrussi, a large family of the 19th-century Jewish bourgeoisie of which de Waal is a descendant. The only thing that survived from their immense fortune after the war is an astonishing collection of Japanese miniatures, known as netsuke. De Waal recounts the convoluted journey of the netsukes, which were later returned to him. He received the prized possessions undoubtedly because, as an artist himself, he was the most suitable person in the family to receive them, understand them, and pass on the story. –MF

1 Transmettre (ou pas), Albin Michel, 2012. 2 Flammarion, Champs Libres, 2015.

’ Photography THIEMO SANDER @ JR & ASSOCIEE, assisted by DAVID MARTIN & JULIETTE PEYRAT ’ Styling DEBORAH DUTRAIN, assisted by EMILIE BLONDEAU Hair & Makeup MICKAEL JAUNEAU @ AGENCE AURELIEN Manicure KAMEL @ B-AGENCY Model MO LI @ MADEMOISELLE AGENCY

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CARTIER Juste un Clou earrings CARTIER Ballon Bleu watch CARTIER Trinity ring ALEXANDRE BLANC dress

A few ways to BRING STYLE into your everyday life... Add two Trinity rings to your fingers while you craft POEMS, like COCTEAU. DREAM about the future with a Ballon Bleu on your arm. Wear your Santos on your wrist as you take on the OPEN ROAD. Strut with SOPHISTICATION like the undulating strap of your Panthère watch. Indulge in the ART OF SKETCHING while wearing your Tank watch. Put on your Juste un Clou bracelet, and LOSE YOURSELF TO DANCE. Get lost in romance with your Love bracelet…and FIND LITTLE WAYS TO CELEBRATE LIFE!

CARTIER Juste un Clou earrings CARTIER ‚ Juste un Clou bracelets CHLOE dress and belt

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CARTIER Trinity ring CARTIER Love ring CARTIER Santos watch ATELIER SOVEN tank top and trousers

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CARTIER Juste un Clou necklace CARTIER Panthère watch ALAÏA jacket

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7 ARCHITECTURAL GEMS (TO BE SEEN AT LEAST ONCE IN A LIFETIME)

Wrapped entirely in titanium armor that looks like liquid gold in the rain, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is a breathtaking avant-garde architectural landmark of the 20th century and a must-see for its sheer magnificence. The innovative design was created by the Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry in 1997.

A SILVER LACE DOME 2. The Louvre, Abu Dhabi Based on the dome, an important symbol in Arab architecture, the Louvre in Abu Dhabi encapsulates a perfect union between traditional design and modern construction. Completed in 2017, Jean Nouvel’s museum city mesmerizes visitors with a “rain of light” that shines through its woven dome. At night, 7,850 stars are visible from inside.

5. Louvre Pyramid, Paris

The iconic pyramid of the Louvre Museum in Paris is made of 673 laminated glass panels, a technical feat in the late 1980s, and rests on a steel and aluminium structure. Masterminded by I.M. Pei, the sloping walls pay tribute to the mansard roofs of Paris.

A HELICAL STRUCTURE

6. Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York City A cornerstone of modern art, the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and opened in 1959. Thanks to its helical structure, it basks in the Big Apple’s natural sunlight. Its winding staircase gently descends alongside a sloping banister, where visitors can easily contemplate the impressive works of art on each level.

A MARRIAGE OF PLANTS AND SETTING

A CURVED SHAPE

The Inhotim Institute, located in the southeast of Brazil, is the world’s largest open-air museum. It boasts a unique botanical garden with 4,500 rare species. The outdoor exhibits are spectacular and the numerous gallery pavilions offer a modern take on the architectural follies of the 18th century. Opened in 2006, this project is the work of art collector Bernardo Paz.

Completed in 2011, the Soumaya Museum enchants visitors with its scale and curves, emblematic of the Ballon Bleu by Cartier. The exterior, covered in 17,000 aluminium hexagons that reflect the sunlight, is inspired by chain mail. The architect Fernando Romero, renowned for the fluidity of his designs, created an effect that feels equally geometric and organic. –E.W.

3. Inhotim Institute, Brumadinho

A DAZZLING PYRAMID

1. Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao

7. Soumaya Museum, Mexico City © Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum by David Emrich

UNDULATING LINES

are delicately placed at the flower’s tips. This floral ode, which opened in 2011, was brought to life by Moshe Safdie.

©ArtScience Museum by Victor Garcia

Straight or curved lines, extraordinary dimensions, innovative materials, a play of light... AN EXCEPTIONAL modern architectural concepts challenge LOTUS FLOWER ArtScience Museum, aesthetic and geometric codes. 4. Singapore Audacious in design, these projects Composed of 10 petals that reach up to redefine the limits of contemporary the sky in varying heights, the ArtScience architecture, just as Louis Cartier revolutionized museum in Singapore is architectural Each petal collects rainwater, watchmaking and jewelry in his day. poetry. which is then channeled into a waterfall. We’ll give you the tour. The sun shines through the skylights that

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PIECES TO LAST A LIFETIME A Panthère watch, a Love bracelet, or a Trinity ring can last a lifetime. Follow these tips to give them longevity and eternal youth. all your jewelry before washing or moisturizing. Particles can get lodged in the hollow parts of the jewel, which cannot always be removed with a quick rinse and can cause premature wear of the metal. © Courtesy of Cartier

` WATCH IS MY PANTHERE FOR LIFE? Yes, if you take good care of it and follow a few simple rules. Store it in its original case or in a watch box to protect it from dust. It should be insulated enough to avoid any damage or scratches. Try to keep your watch away from objects with electronic components (tablets, laptops, etc.) or magnets. And be sure to keep it in a dry place and at room temperature (i.e., not the bathroom).

HOW LONG WILL MY CARTIER PIECES LAST? As long as you treat your jewelry with care, your pieces will stay pristine for a long time. You shouldn’t sleep in them, even if you’re tempted. Occasionally, you can soak them in soapy water and clean them gently with a small, softbristle brush, before rinsing and drying them with a soft cloth. For a finishing touch, give them a gentle polish using a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol to avoid leaving any marks. For the best result, use the Cartier Jewelry Brilliance Set or, once a year, drop it off at your Cartier boutique for servicing. Your jewelry will be cleaned with ultrasound equipment and expertly polished, which will help restore it to its original shine.

WHAT ABOUT THE WATCH’S IS MY TRINITY RING FOREVER? CROWN? Whether you are unlocking it to Since by wearing your ring, you have change the time or simply winding signed a pact of love, friendship, and it, it's best to take off your watch fidelity, it’s best to store it by itself—in its when handling the crown. You case or in a separate compartment don’t want to damage its axis. in a jewelry box. If you happen The wrong angle could affect the to have a diamond nearby, beware CAN I SHOWER WHILE functioning of the movement and of scratches. WEARING MY BALLON BLEU? even cause breakage in certain Definitely not. It doesn’t fare well parts. The key is to be gentle. DO I TIGHTEN MY LOVE in water, so take it off. Even if your BRACELET? watch is waterproof, remove it There is little chance that it before stepping into a shower or DOES MY WATCH NEED will come off, as you will have bath. The water resistance can be A CHECKUP? tightened the screw with your mini It is essential! Just as you get damaged by the water pressure of the tap, soap, and hot water, all of regular checkups, your watch screwdriver. In general, always which can affect the seal. Be sure needs one too. During a checkup, remember to check the screw. If CAN I BENEFIT FROM to place the watch where there’s a watchmaker will dismantle the the two arcs are not perfectly CARTIER CARE? no chance of it falling to the floor. watch, check all of its parts, and aligned, you will hear a slight Absolutely! If your watch is still under Hard surfaces can be unforgiving. then clean them using ultrasound noise. All the elements must be in warranty, take advantage of Cartier technology and special baths. perfect alignment, like love itself. International’s Extended Warranty, For versions with diamonds, polish CAN I POLISH MY SANTOS? The mechanisms will be tested the jewels gently with a fine cloth. which covers up to eight years of care if it’s registered on Cartier Care. Only the metal bracelet. Use a and the gaskets will be changed You’ll get exclusive benefits and super soft brush and soapy water to ensure a perfect seal. Once services, which allows your precious to remove anything stuck in the reassembled, the watch will be SHOULD I KEEP THE JUSTE pieces to stay well maintained, links.Cartier also has a cleaning tested for operation, precision, UN CLOU DRY? water resistance, solidity, and Yes! The Juste un Clou doesn’t like plus you’ll receive personalized kit that works wonders. water, lotion, or perfume. Take off communications. –V.R. different types of resistance. DO I NEED TO KEEP MY TANK ON? That’s why Louis Cartier created it—so it can be worn indefinitely. For the growing number of vintage watch lovers, Cartier has launched its special “Cartier Keeping the wheels of a watch Vintage” offer. The Maison offers an exclusive selection of watches from 1970 to 2010 at its turning is essential in ensuring it boutiques on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris and New Bond Street in London, including historic runs smoothly. However, even models such as the Tortue and the Tonneau, and limited-edition pieces like the Pasha. All of if the oils no longer freeze, it’s them are not only fully restored by the Maison’s craftsmen, but also documented and eligible possible that your watch may start for the Cartier International Warranty for up to eight years, once you register it on Cartier Care. to lag for reasons unknown. If that happens, it’s time for a checkup. Who wouldn’t love to display a piece of heritage on their wrist?

VINTAGE CHIC

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1983 1-Aldo Cipullo’s Love Bracelet at the Museum of Modern Art, New York City © Gary Bernstein / 2-Tina Turner: Galerie Esther Woerdehoff and Michel Comte Estate

The CARTI eman much like the singer Tina Turner, who wears it. Highlighted by its pure lines, this expression of the Maison’s design escapes convention and is the emblem of are are self.

MonicaBellucci:©Cartier ©ThiemoSander

Transforming an everyday object, like a nail, into a piece of jewelry requires some creative thinking. The brainchild of Italian-American designer Aldo Cipullo, the CARTIER JUSTE UN CLOU BRACELET is designed to look like a nail and is formed with a single band. It reflects a nonconformist, rebellious, prov time, juxtaposing rock ‘n’ roll vibes with chic The actress Monica Bellucci has since ad incorporating it into her own style. Be

2007 If you’re looking for something beyond your typical round timepiece, look no further. The CARTIER BALLON BLEU WATCH is encased in a sculptural crystal and perfects the balance between style and substance. It’s simply unique. Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, has already gotten her hands on one, so why haven’t you?

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For information on reprints and e-prints, please contact Brian Kolb at Wright’s Reprints, 877-652-5295 or bkolb@wrightsreprints.com. ELLE is published by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All correspondence should be addressed to: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. The ELLE trademark and logo are owned by Hachette Filipacchi Presse (France), a Lagardère Active Group company. Copyright © 2021. Printed in the United States of America.

Editor’s Letter

DRESS, PRADA. RING, HARRY WINSTON.

DRESS, CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE. RINGS, BULGARI.

very year around this time, I start to get giddy about fall fashion: the sweaters, the knee-high boots, and did I mention the coats? And right now, our collective anticipation for the season has arguably never been at more of a fever pitch. I was so drawn to the color, positivity, and creativity we saw on the runways this season, and our pages this month are crammed full of tempting reentry looks perfect for making our way back into the world. We have come so far in the past year and a half, and the thrill of getting to resume our regular lives—and even the promise of in-person fashion shows—is providing much-needed excitement. A celebration of joyous fashion, this month’s covers star two supermodels: Adut Akech and Kendall Jenner. Though Akech is a regular on the runways, her most important calling is undoubtedly helping others. A former refugee, she’s now devoted to supporting young women in the same position through her work with the United Nations High Commissioner of Refugees. She sees her visibility in fashion as part of the same overall project of uplifting others: “I do this for my little sisters. I do it for little Black girls all around the world,” she tells Roxanne Fequiere. Meanwhile, Jenner lights up the streets of Los Angeles in the best looks of fall—grunge-inspired styles and minimal makeup that channel her ’90s forebears. In this issue, you’ll also be introduced to some fresh faces. Whitney Peak, who stars in the much-buzzed-about Gossip Girl reboot, chats with Alexis Okeowo about preparing to inspire as much online chatter as the show’s fictional prep schoolers. And with a staggering 80.4 million–plus followers on TikTok, Addison Rae is heading from our phone screens to the big screen in He’s All That, the gender-swapped Netflix remake

of She’s All That. In our Culture pages, ELLE.com Staff Writer Rose Minutaglio speaks to Rae about her very 2021 path to fame, and Maria Sherman reports on the global omnipresence of K-pop and how its biggest fans are mobilizing not just to stan their favorites, but to support social change. You know what a life coach is, but have you heard of an eating disorder recovery coach? Kate Siber delves into this growing phenomenon and how it’s helping many of those struggling with an affliction that the pandemic only intensified. (One 2020 study concluded that 62 percent of Americans with anorexia found their symptoms worsening after COVID-19 hit.) One coach says recovery “is like trying to get out of a dust storm—you’re not sure which way to turn.…To have someone grab your hand, act as a guide, and walk you through it can be really important and valuable.” Wherever this summer finds you—poolside or desk-side—I recommend taking the time to read John H. Tucker’s story about Megan Lundstrom, a former sex worker who found herself plunged into dangerous situations after joining a “sugaring” website. She is now using her private Instagram account to help other victims of commercial sexual exploitation and trafficking. And after befriending a young sociology professor, Angie Henderson, she began to focus an academic lens on her experiences. This story has a happy ending: Now Lundstrom has a master’s in sociology herself. “Research saved my life,” she says. ▪

@ N I N AGA RC I A

N I N AGA RC I A

@ N I N AGA RC I AO F F I C I A L

AKEC H: C HR IS CO L LS; J EN N ER : ZO EY G RO S S MA N ; FO R DETAI LS, S EE S HO P PIN G G U I DE .

FALL in Love

Nina’s Edit

Force of NATURE ELLE’s editor-in-chief heads to Ecuador’s Galápagos Islands, packing eco-minded options to tread lightly on one of the planet’s most spectacularly species-diverse destinations. GARCIA TAKES IN THE SCENERY ON THE BEACH.

GALÁPAGOS IMAGES: COURTESY OF NINA GARCIA; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS; FOR DETAILS, SEE SHOPPING GUIDE.

THE VIEW FROM ONE OF GARCIA’S HIKES.

WHAT TO PACK 1. SUNTEGRITY NATURAL MINERAL BODY SUNSCREEN BROAD SPECTRUM SPF 30, SUNTEGRITY SKINCARE, $24, SUNTEGRITYSKINCARE.COM. 2. BACKPACK, GUCCI, $2,100, GUCCI.COM. 3. SANDAL, SUICOKE X HAY, $150, SUICOKE.CA. 4. TOP, AGUA BY AGUA BENDITA, AGUABENDITA.COM. 5. BINOCULARS AND CASE, HERMÈS, $3,300, HERMES.COM. 6. JACKET, RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION, $7,990, RALPHLAUREN.COM. 7. HAT, MAISON MICHEL, $720, MICHEL-PARIS.COM. 8. SUNGLASSES, JACQUES MARIE MAGE, $620, JACQUESMARIEMAGE.COM. 9. WATCH, ROLEX, ROLEX.COM.

4 7

6 A MARINE IGUANA, A SPECIES FOUND ONLY ON THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS.

The BAG

Not quite ready to dip your toe into full-on logomania? Enter Fendi’s convertible clutch, with its discreet F clasp. Handbag, Fendi, $3,490, fendi.com.

CO U RT E SY O F T HE DES I GN E RS.

New Arrivals

Time is precious—and so is the halo of white diamonds ringing Rolex’s newly updated Day-Date timepiece, which now comes in ultraflattering Everose gold. Watch, Rolex, rolex.com. 57

The SHOE

The only jewelry you’ll need poolside: Manolo Blahnik’s brass-ringed slide. Sandal, Manolo Blahnik, $725, manoloblahnik.com.

T IM OT HY MU LCA R E/ ST U DI O D; FO R DE TAI LS, S E E SH OP P IN G G UI DE.

New Arrivals

The Spotlight Squad Charlize Theron Misty Copeland Yao Chen

Front Row

THREE HERMÈS BOLIDE BAGS ARE BETTER THAN ONE. HERE, MODEL ELSA HOSK WEARS A TRIO, ALONG WITH A MINI KELLY.

SUPPORTING CAST some of the stories BEHIND THEIR CREATION.

orothy Parker pinch-hit writing lingerie captions, and Joan Didion tried her hand at fashionmagazine display copy, but few literary heavyweights have ever found themselves moved to weigh in on a handbag. Colette might be the exception. In 1942, Hermès’s creations inspired her to write that “the beauty of the material calls for the perfection of the work, even if it can’t be seen. The bottom must be worthy of the top, and the inside the outside.” Now, nearly 80 years later, Catherine Fulconis, the executive vice president of Hermès’s leather goods–saddlery and “Petit h” divisions, is demonstrating that inside-and-out perfection as we speak, showing me the interior of one of the house’s prized carryalls. That attention to even the unseen details is part of Hermès’s pragmatic approach. “We don’t consider a bag as an accessory,” Fulconis says, “but as an object made to last.” Among their over 50 styles, you’re likely most familiar with the Birkin and the Kelly, which have certainly gotten the most pop-culture airtime, whether it’s Rory Gilmore receiving a birthday Birkin or Grace Kelly modeling what would later become her namesake bag against the Riviera backdrop of Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief. But there is a formidable, equally beloved entourage waiting in the wings, from the Garden Party, a sturdy tote originally designed to carry gardeners’ tools, to the Constance, named for the designer’s daughter. “They are all different stories,” Fulconis says, “but they all breathe Hermès.”

TOM SCHIRMACHER/TRUNK ARCHIVE. MODEL WITH HORSE: STEVE HIETT/TRUNK ARCHIVE; WOMAN IN RED: EDWARD BERTHELOT/GETTY IMAGES; REMAINING IMAGES: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER.

Among the tales she regales me with is that of the Bolide, which, she says, demonstrates the house’s ability to shift with the times. In 1923, after the automobile had whizzed into the popular imagination, Émile Hermès created a curved-top carryall—originally called the sac pour auto—that was perfectly shaped to fit in the trunk of an early-model car. (“Look at the [side] profile; it’s like a statue,” Fulconis notes proudly.) It was also one of the first bags to sport a zipper instead of a clasp. (Hermès brought the zipper design over from Canada and patented it.) He created a smaller version for his wife Julie, one of the first women to take driving lessons. But while the style may have been made with the horseless carriage in mind, it still had an equestrian echo: its handles, which resemble bridles. The Evelyne is more straightforwardly a callback to Hermès’s equestrian roots, with its signature H perforation, a touch more functional than decorative. Fulconis explains that it was meant to be worn against the body, allowing a rider’s grooming equipment to dry out. Gradually, as it became popular off the racing circuit, wearers sported it with the logo facing out instead. Yet another form of transportation inspired the Roulis, whose sobriquet refers to the rolling motion of a ship. The nautical theme extends to its clasp, modeled after the house’s iconic Chaîne d’Ancre (anchor chain) bracelet. Fulconis shows off the embroidery on the bag, which takes over 100 hours of painstaking work to complete. “There is no recipe,” says Fulconis when I ask her what makes an Hermès bag an Hermès bag, but they all have one thing in common. “They are the fruit of an alchemy of elegance and purity and functionality of conception.” She explains that when the brand began in 1837 as a harness maker, it eschewed the ornamental pieces common at the time in favor of a purity of line. “This idea is still really encoded in our creative style.” As another great thinker she quotes, Le Corbusier, once put it, “luxury is well-made, neat and clean, pure and healthy, and its bareness reveals the quality of its manufacture.”—VÉRONIQUE HYLAND

TOP LEFT: THE CLEAN-LINED CONSTANCE HAS BECOME A STREET-STYLE FAVORITE; ABOVE: THE EVELYNE CHANNELS THE HOUSE’S EQUESTRIAN ROOTS. FROM LEFT: BOLIDE 1923-45 RACING BAG, ROULIS MINI TOUCH HANDBAG, $7,150, HERMÈS, HERMES.COM.

Front Row

N E WS

NEW School

ROMEO HUNTE once again pays homage to mentor Tommy Hilfiger with a nostalgic yet fresh collection.

ven in our modern landscape of constant collaborations, it’s rare that a major brand gives free rein to a young design talent. But that’s just what Tommy Hilfiger granted his mentee of several years, designer Romeo Hunte. “Romeo is one of those truly exceptional newcomers, someone who you know is going to make an impact as soon as you see his work,” says Hilfiger, who opened up the brand’s archives for Hunte to deconstruct and reenvision its most iconic styles. Among them: a biker jacket–meets–trench coat that features both designers’ names on the back, and the backpack-cum-vest at right. The hybrid stylings call to mind Hunte’s penchant for clever repurposing, which has won him fans from Hailey Bieber to NBA star James Harden. Hilfiger, a family friend, and his work have long been a pivotal influence for the designer. “I remember back in fifth grade, I was begging my mother to buy [me] Tommy pieces, particularly the ones with bold stripes,” Hunte says. The film Dick Tracy came out around the same time and featured the same bright colors, which became a primary reference point for the Tommy x Romeo collection. The collab is also part of Hilfiger’s People’s Place Program, which launched last summer in an effort to increase BIPOC representation in the fashion industry. As for the wisdom he’s gleaned from Hilfiger, Hunte says: “One thing we have in common is that he likes to mix different cultures and lifestyles to create this amazing fantasy for people. This collection is all about making the pieces your own.”—NAOMI ROUGEAU

ON BOTH MODELS: OVERSIZE SHIRT, $290, UTILITY VEST, $990, SHORTS, $190, TOMMY X ROMEO, USA.TOMMY.COM.

It’s been over a decade since Simon Porte Jacquemus founded his eponymous brand, but within that time, the Provence-born designer has delivered some of fashion’s biggest viral hits. Who can forget the larger-than-life straw hats and totes inspired by his native region? Not to mention his tenth-anniversary show, which took place amid the area’s famed lavender fields. Now, just when we need his high-octane vision most, the designer is partnering with Mytheresa on a 13-piece capsule collection that screams summer. The theme: “vitamin-fueled,” with a hot-pink and orange palette that’s a surefire mood booster. Jacquemus chose to revisit some of his signature designs, from figure-hugging knits and exaggerated stirrup pants to the pint-size Le Chiquito bag and Adour string sandals, which have spawned many a wait list. —NR

CO U RT E SY O F T HE DES I GN E RS.

ORANGE CRUSH

Accessories H I G H J E W E L RY S P OT L I G H T

ROARING TWENTIES

PURE V COLLECTION BRACELETS, RING, LOUIS VUITTON, LOUISVUITTON.COM.

C O U RT ESY O F LO U I S V U I T TO N .

“For the Pure V high jewelry collection, I wanted to express the essence of the V,” says Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director for watches and jewelry at Louis Vuitton. She looked to the Art Deco–inspired monogram that graced Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s personal luggage in the 1920s and ’30s, though the resulting eight-piece collection feels thoroughly modern. Using a minimalist palette of white gold, diamonds, onyx, and V-shaped cutouts, Amfitheatrof played with negative space so that “the glimpses of skin revealed become just as important as the jewel itself.” After all, what’s more modern than allowing the wearer’s own style to shine through?—NAOMI ROUGEAU

Accessories

HIGHER EDUCATION The once-nerdy loafer

has officially made the transition from the hallways to the runways (knee socks optional). LOAFERS, SOCKS, $130, PRADA, PRADA.COM

MO DEL: PH OTO G R AP HE D BY G IL LES BEN S I MO N (ST Y LED BY L AU R A S EGA N T I ); R EM AI N IN G I MAG ES: C O URT E SY O F T H E DE S IG N ERS.

5 1. DIOR, 800-929-DIOR 2. GANNI, $375, GANNI.COM 3. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, $950, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI.COM 4. ALEXANDRE BIRMAN, $450, ALEXANDRE BIRMAN.COM

5. MARNI, $890, MARNI.COM 6. ROGER VIVIER, $1,050, ROGER VIVIER, NYC 7. LOUIS VUITTON, $1,080, LOUIS VUITTON.COM

RIPE FOR THE PICKING 66

“The whole collection resembles a caress,” says Pierre Hardy of his latest Hermès high jewelry offering, Lignes Sensibles. Among the free-spirited designs—which the designer envisions being worn as a second skin—the Réseau Lumière necklace (shown here) stands out thanks to its web of 282 white diamonds set in white gold. “The necklaces are as soft as arms around the neck,” Hardy adds. Or a couple of newly ripened pears, as whimsically interpreted here by mixed-media artist Anna Bu Kliewer.—NAOMI ROUGEAU RÉSEAU LUMIÈRE NECKLACE, HERMÈS, HERMES.COM. COLLAGE BY ANNA BU KLIEWER.

CO U RT E SY O F T HE DES I GN E R.

Accessories

Read All About It MODE L: PHOTOGRAPH E D BY NIC KY ONDE RWATE R (ST YLE D BY TH OM AS VE RME E R); RE MAINING IMAGE S: C OU RTE SY OF TH E DE S IGNE RS.

Have a penchant for Prada? Mad about Moschino? Let it be known with fall’s crop of logo-laden extras.

DRESS, H&M. SCARF, LEATHER EARRING, HERMÈS. DROP EARRING, GRAINNE MORTON.

1. BUCKET HAT, LOUIS VUITTON, $690, LOUIS VUITTON.COM 2. CHOKER, BALMAIN, $1,195, BALMAIN.COM 3. HANDBAG, VERSACE, $975, VERSACE.COM 4. SANDAL, FENDI, $1,390, FENDI.COM 5. BELT, TORY BURCH, $198, TORYBURCH.COM

6. DOUBLE RING, MOSCHINO COUTURE, $295, MOSCHINO BOUTIQUES NATIONWIDE

7. EARRINGS, PRADA, PRADA.COM 8. SANDAL, GIVENCHY, $825, GIVENCHY.COM 9. HANDBAG, CHANEL, $4,000, SELECT CHANEL BOUTIQUES NATIONWIDE

FALL FORWARD

The French have the perfect term for the shift that the end of summer heralds: la rentrée. Rather than lament that vacations are coming to a close, we’re focusing on all the style opportunities reentry offers—wherever the season finds you.

TRENCH COAT, VICTORIA BECKHAM. SKIRT, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO. ANKLE BOOTS, WANDLER.

M O DEL: P HOTO G R A PH ED BY A LEX WA LT L (ST Y LED BY P IA LE O N IE K N O LL) ; AYA MUSE T ROUS E RS, GANNI BLOUS E , GIULIVA H E RITAGE S KIRT, A ND V I C TO R I A BEC KH AM JEA N S: C OU RT E SY O F M O DA O P ER A N DI; M AR I A L A RO SA S O C KS: C OU RTE SY OF LU BAROL; RE MAINING IMAGE S: C O U RT ESY O F T HE D ES IG N ERS; FO R DETAI LS, S EE SH O P PIN G G U I DE .

Shop

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3 4 5

1. Earring, Jiwinaia, $160 (for pair), matchesfashion.com. 2. Sweater, Erdem, $870, erdem.com. 3. Coat, Lauren Ralph Lauren, $595, ralphlauren.com. 4. Skort, Sandy Liang, $795, similar styles at sandyliang.info. 5. Brogue, Santoni, $1,250, santonishoes.com.

1. Trousers, Aya Muse, $505, aya-muse.com. 2. T-shirt, Out of Print, $30, outofprint.com. 3. Cap bag, JW Anderson, $395, jwanderson .com. 4. Sunglasses, Persol, $261, persol.com. 5. Ankle boot, By Far, $540, byfar.com. 2

1 1

WALES BONNNER FALL 2021

1. Sweatshirt, Rentrayage, $325, rentrayage .com. 2. Jeans, Victoria Beckham, $490, victoriabeckham.com. 3. Watch, Omega, omegawatches.com. 4. Sneaker, Adidas Originals by Wales Bonner, $150, walesbonner .net. 5. Socks, Maria La Rosa, $72, matchesfashion.com.

1. Blouse, Ganni, $165, ganni.com. 2. Ring, Nina Runsdorf, $2,150, ninarunsdorf.com. 3. Skirt, Giuliva Heritage, $1,200, giuliva heritage.com. 4. Brogue heel, Thom Browne, $1,750, thombrowne.com. 5. Tote bag, Dior, Dior boutiques nationwide.

Shop

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3 3

1. Jacket, Diesel, $495, diesel.com. 2. Jacket, $520, pants, $320, Another Tomorrow, another tomorrow.co. 3. Hoop earrings, Sunnei, $265, ssense.com. 4. Handbag, Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, $1,300, emptygallery.com. 5. Sneaker, New Balance, $70, newbalance.com.

1. Cropped trousers, Materiel, $499, materieltbilisi.com. 2. Zip-up sweater, Jil Sander, $1,290, jilsander.com. 3. Hoop earrings, Anne Klein, $26, anneklein.com. 4. Handbag, Vavvoune, $495, vavvoune.com. 5. Sandal, Schutz, $118, schutz-shoes.com.

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STELLA MCCARTNEY FALL 2021

3 5 5

3 4

1. Necklace, Mateo, $875, mateonewyork.com. 2. Skirt, Emilia Wickstead, $829, emilia wickstead.com. 3. Jacket, Puma, $85, puma .com. 4. Watch, Breitling, breitling.com. 5. Boot, Skorpios, $1,210, maisonskorpios.com.

1. Blazer, Blazé Milano, $1,308, fwrd.com. 2. Handbag, Longchamp, $330, longchamp .com. 3. Trousers, Stella McCartney, $1,625, stellamccartney.com. 4. Earrings, Swarovski, $299, swarovski.com. 5. Boot, Dries Van Noten, $955, driesvannoten-la.com.

J IL SA N DER SW EAT ER, BL A ZÉ M IL AN O BL A ZE R, AN N A O CTO BE R SK IRT, LE 17 S EP T EM BR E JAC KET, ALTU ZARRA B ELT, AYA M US E S KI RT, N A N USH KA JAC KET, A N D KHA IT E BO OT: C O U RT ESY O F M O DA O P ER A N DI ; RE MAINING I MAG ES: CO U RT ESY O F T H E DES I G N ERS; FO R DETAI LS, SE E S HO PP I N G G U ID E.

1 2

KHAITE PREFALL 2021

6 5

1. Shoulder bag, By Malene Birger, $1,260, bymalenebirger.com. 2. Jacket, Le17 Septembre, $695, le17septembre.com. 3. Belt, Altuzarra, $495, altuzarra.com. 4. Skirt, Aya Muse, $290, aya-muse.com. 5. Earring, Anita Ko, $975, anitako.com. 6. Boot, Alexander McQueen, $990, alexandermcqueen.com.

1. Skirt, Anna October, $420, intermixonline .com. 2. Jacket, Proenza Schouler, $2,290, proenzaschouler.com. 3. Shoulder bag, Telfar, $257, telfar.net. 4. Bracelet, 1017 Alyx 9SM, $270, farfetch.com. 5. Mule, Bottega Veneta, $1,990, bottegaveneta.com. 1

1 2

1. Jacket, Nanushka, $1,295, nanushka.com. 2. Dress, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, $1,295, by special order at alejandraalonsorojas.com. 3. Shoulder bag, Brahmin, $295, brahmin.com. 4. Choker, Martine Ali, $280, ssense.com. 5. Boot, Khaite, $1,180, khaite.com.

1. Skirt, Bite Studios, $960, bitestudios.com. 2. Handbag, Il Bisonte, $475, ilbisonte.com. 3. Jacket, Vince, $495, vince.com. 4. Clog, Area, $985, area.nyc. 5. Double seamless bra tank, Helmut Lang, $140, helmutlang.com.

Beauty

TH E LO O K

CO URT E SY O F T H E DES I G N ER.

OUT OF THE BLUE

Once considered a serious beauty faux pas, cerulean shadow is nothing but glamorous in the hands of makeup legend Pat McGrath.

It’s a new dawn, and McGrath suggests you greet it with a vibrant, celebratory beauty look, like the dramatic pool-blue wings at Versace. When paired with another trend seen on the fall runways—a ’70s-inspired triangular headscarf adorned with barrettes—the combo is everything you need for a stylish reentry into the world outside your living room.

Beauty

H A IR

F I L E S

It’s estimated that more than half of women in America will experience hair loss—and numbers may have only risen during the pandemic.

tress—whether from a breakup, giving birth, contracting COVID-19, or simply living through the year-and-counting pandemic—can be a common trigger for hair loss. “When we experience abrupt changes, the body helps essential tissues thrive at the expense of nonessential tissues, like hair,” says Palm Beach, Florida–based trichologist Bridgette Hill, the founder of Root Cause Scalp Analysis. While losing up to 100 hairs a day is normal, some dermatologists say they are seeing more patients with excessive shedding than ever before. According to a study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, hair loss increased by more than 400 percent between November 2019 and August 2020 in two racially diverse New York City neighborhoods, most likely due to COVID-related inflammation or stress. FDA-approved minoxidil (found in Rogaine) is the gold standard for over-the-counter treatments. But Beverly Hills dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD, says Redensyl, a blend of ingredients including a special peptide, may rival minoxidil, potentially with fewer side effects. “Peptides are our body’s messengers,” Shamban says. “They deliver news to cells, telling them to perform a specific function.” Redensyl, found in products like Philip B Scalp Booster ($85) and The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Serum for Hair Density ($18), communicates directly with hair stem cells to encourage healthy follicle activity. For more dramatic results, you may want to consider an in-office treatment. A noninvasive option is HydraFacial Keravive, a “scalp facial” that includes exfoliation, a stimulating scalp serum, and red LED light. New York dermatologist Jessica Weiser, MD, also suggests KeraLase. This treatment starts with a laser (which creates small punctures in the scalp at the same depth as the hair follicle bulbs), followed by a serum rich in peptide and growth factors. “The serum triggers a new follicle, which leads to growth of new hair,” Weiser says.—MARGAUX ANBOUBA

ROOTING for You Whether you’re facing hair loss or simply want to grow your healthiest head of hair, Hill recommends this three-step scalp care routine.

1. PRETREAT

Moisturizing and maintaining the pH of your scalp is critical, Hill says. Fifteen minutes before showering, apply an anti-inflammatory mask or oil to scalp and strands. Fable & Mane HoliRoots Hair Oil, $34, fableandmane.com.

2. MASSAGE

Fill this palm-size brush with serum for a treatment that is both relaxing and rejuvenating to the scalp. Use circular motions to improve circulation and stimulate scalp muscles while removing dead skin cells. WetBrush Head Start Exfoliating Scalp Massager ($15); Bread Beauty Supply Scalp-Serum: Exfoliating Scalp Treatment ($28).

3. WASH GENTLY

Choose your shampoo carefully: Swap in a hyaluronic acid or apple cider vinegar formula on occasion to remove product buildup without irritation. Neutrogena Healthy Scalp Hydro Boost Shampoo with Hyaluronic Acid ($12).—MA

MO DEL : P HOTO GR AP HED BY F R I DA MA R KLU N D A B; R EM AI N I N G IM AG ES: C O URT E SY OF THE BRANDS.

GROWING PAINS

Beauty

I T

L I ST

End the summer with transporting scents and a daring pop of color on lips, cheeks, or nails.

LOOKING on the BRIGHT SIDE

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1. ESKER SPARKLING BATH SALTS, $75, ESKERBEAUTY.COM

“Drop these eucalyptus-, lavender-, and juniper-scented crystals into the tub for a bubbling onsen-like experience—the carbonation gently exfoliates the skin. The woven packaging looks extra pretty in my bathroom, too.”—Margaux Anbouba, Beauty Editor 2. LE PRUNIER PLUMSCREEN, $78, LEPRUNIER.COM

“From the makers of the cult face oil with a 25,000-person wait list, this lotion-like mineral sunscreen is the perfect encore. Apply small amounts to different sections of

your face at a time for easy blending.”—Katie Becker, Beauty and Health Director 3. DIPTYQUE ILIO EAU DE TOILETTE, $145, DIPTYQUEPARIS.COM

“I prefer to spritz fragrance in a cloud and walk through it. This fresh, summery prickly pear–andjasmine perfume instantly transports me to a lounge chair by the sparkling Mediterranean Sea.”—Nina Garcia, Editor-in-Chief 4. FENTY BEAUTY GLOSS BOMB HEAT UNIVERSAL LIP LUMINIZER + PLUMPER, $22, FENTYBEAUTY.COM

“RiRi has done it again, this time adding the lip-tingling perks

of a plumper to her already beloved lip luminizer. The never-sticky formula has lips shining bright like a diamond— with a hint of color—all day long.”—Laura Sampedro, Deputy Managing Editor 5. GUCCI BEAUTY VERNIS À ONGLES IN GOLDIE RED AND CRYSTAL BLACK, $30 EACH, SEPHORA.COM

“Gucci’s new nail collection is as functional as it is fabulous. Housed in a sleek, retro bottle, the plant-based polish goes on super smooth and offers opaque, creamy coverage after just one coat. Plus, the perfectly

sized brush makes it a cinch to apply even the darkest shades.”—Amy Synnott, Executive Editor 6. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ABRACADABRA HIGHLIGHTER & BLUSH PALETTE IN SO DELIKATE, $156, NORDSTROM.COM

“I love that this iconic studded case can be refilled with fresh palettes (the first purchase includes a replacement). The powder blushes build subtly—my favorite is the peach shade, which makes me look sun-kissed. And the highlighter leaves skin looking naturally dewy.”—KB

PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHNNY MILLER

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Beauty

G E N I US

TYRON MACHHAUSEN The celeb-beloved pro makes complicated makeup appear effortless. The secret? An artist’s eye and a knack for individuality.

@tyronmachhausen New York City

“I’ve always been fascinated by intense colors,” says makeup artist Tyron Machhausen. “My mom was an art teacher, so I painted all the time.” After coming up in the Berlin fashion scene, Machhausen moved to New York City, where a chance meeting with Margot Robbie on a magazine shoot resulted in her tapping him for the 2015 Oscars. He now works with the likes of Jessica Chastain, Lucy Boynton, and Zazie Beetz (right). Here, some of his best tricks.

UPDATE THE WING

PREP LIKE A PRO

STAY SHINE-FREE

TREAT COLOR AS AN ACCENT

“I usually turn toward theatrical palettes by Mehron or Make Up For Ever. When I’m trying something really strong or intense, I approach it like an architectural detail—almost like an accessory.” “It’s beneficial to set foundation with powder, but after the initial dusting, ditch it and use papers instead. This will absorb the excess oil and leave skin looking matte without adding more product on top. You’ll look just as fresh in your last Zoom

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BEETZ FOR ELLE; DOTTED LINER; ON SET WITH MODEL ROZANNE VERDUIN.

REVERSE COVER-UP

“I use as little foundation as possible, and just spot-conceal where needed. Nobody’s skin is completely flat; I always go in with a cotton swab to bring back all the freckles or little spots. That’s what makes skin look alive!”

IN THE KIT FROM LEFT: MAKE UP FOR EVER 12 FLASH COLOR CASE MULTI-USE PALETTE IN CINEMA ($99); CHANEL ROUGE COCO BLOOM LIP COLOUR IN DESTINY ($40); E.L.F. TOTAL FACE SPONGE ($6); EARTHWISE PURE WITCH HAZEL DISTILLATE ($15); CHANEL LE LINER DE CHANEL LIQUID EYELINER IN GRIS ARGENT ($35).

MAC HH AUSEN : B EN HAS S ET T; B EET Z : A DR IE N N E R AQ UEL ( ST YL ED BY S HIBO N KEN N EDY ) ; DOT T E D LI N ER AN D V ER DU IN : @T Y RO N M AC HHAUSEN ; R EM AI N IN G I M AG ES: C O U RT ESY OF T HE BR A N DS.

“The most important tip is exfoliation. I like Kiko Milano face wipes, followed by witch hazel toner to help calm and soothe. Then I massage in a skin care product, warming it in my hand first. I make sure to use enough so that my fingers are gliding over the skin, never pulling or dragging.”

“Create little dots along the lash line (right). It appears complicated, but it’s easy. I’m obsessed with Chanel’s liquid liner in Gris Argent—it literally looks like liquid metal.”

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PORTRAIT OF A SEATED WOMAN IN MAROON VELVET (2021) BY MATTEA PERROTTA.

WE LLNE S S

Beauty

EATING FOR TWO

One-on-one coaching is revolutionizing treatment for eating disorders. By Kate Siber hree years ago, Abigail O’Laughlin sat in the parking lot of a Chick-fil-A in Destin, Florida, her heart racing. She was meeting her eating disorder recovery coach, and they were planning to eat one of the foods she feared most. A chicken sandwich might not seem like a big deal to some, but two of the hallmarks of anorexia are creating rigid eating rules and restricting food groups. O’Laughlin had loved the meal as a kid but hadn’t let herself eat it for years, not since she had been diagnosed with the eating disorder at age 14. Her coach, Sarah Lee, a warm, upbeat woman with a Texas twang, sympathized—she had recovered from bulimia herself more than a decade before. As the pair ordered, O’Laughlin’s anxiety swelled, but Lee talked her down and they ate together, doing mindfulness exercises in between bites. Slowly, O’Laughlin’s panic began to subside and an unfamiliar feeling dawned: confidence. She was doing it—eating whatever she wanted. “It was a huge milestone for me,” O’Laughlin says. “The sense of freedom didn’t come immediately, but it was like the chains were starting to come off.” Coaches like Sarah Lee are a new and fast-growing phenomenon in the field of eating disorder treatment. These mental illnesses are notoriously hard to recover from: The underlying psychological issues develop over years and take time to work through. Denial and secrecy are common, and sufferers can’t simply turn their backs on food. (Imagine an alcoholic needing to drink moderately three times a day while in recovery.) Rates of relapse, depending on how it’s defined, can range between 9 and 52 percent, according to a 2017 review of 27 studies published in the Journal of Eating Disorders. These disorders also have some of the highest mortality rates of any mental illness—a 2011 meta-analysis of 36 studies published in the Archives of General Psychiatry found the rate to be about 5 percent in people with anorexia. “Eating disorders often require a lot of treatment for someone to reach recovery,” says Ilene Fishman, a therapist and a clinical adviser and board member at the National Eating Disorders Association. “It’s expensive and hard for people to access the care they need—both quantity and quality.” Enter coaching, which aims to bridge the gap between doctors, therapists, and dietitians and a client’s friends and family, who may be overtaxed or uncertain how to help. In May 2017, a pioneer in the field, Carolyn Costin, coauthor of the seminal book 8 Keys to Recovery From an Eating Disorder and founder of the first residential treatment center, Monte Nido, in Malibu, California, established a rigorous eating disorder coaching certification program. The course, which can take up to a year and a half, trains coaches to work with people who have clinical eating disorders. To date, there are 62 certified coaches worldwide, from New York to Melbourne, and 49 others currently in training. Approximately 97 percent of the program’s coaches have recovered from their own eating disorder. When Costin, a therapist, first founded the program, some other therapists balked, worrying coaches would encroach on their work without adequate training or oversight. But Costin

COURTESY OF THE ARTIST AND BENJAMIN WESTOBY.

emphasizes that coaches don’t replace therapists but work in tandem with them, focusing on developing skills for daily life rather than exploring past issues. “Coaches are in the trenches with clients,” she says. “Therapists and dietitians don’t have the time to go to a gym or a restaurant with their clients. But these are things that are necessary for recovery.” Eating disorder coaches, much like sober coaches, will often make themselves widely available, responding to texts and calls at all hours. O’Laughlin’s coach Sarah Lee helps her clients grocery shop, prepare meals, and organize kitchen cabinets, and joins them at family meals and on clothes-shopping trips. She also guides them in visualizations and has persuaded some to dismantle the scales and cut up the measuring tapes they use to evaluate their bodies. Other coaches, such as Thousand Oaks, California–based Lori Lee (no relation), host virtual and in-person coaching sessions, and will even stay in clients’ houses for weeks or months at a time, often after inpatient treatment. “Recovering from an eating disorder is like trying to get out of a dust storm—you’re not sure which way to turn, and things are confusing and hard and anxiety-provoking,” says Caryn Raba, a New York–based coach who consults domestically and internationally. “To have someone grab your hand, act as a guide, and walk you through it can be really important and valuable.” Eating disorder recovery coaching is so new that no studies have examined its effectiveness, but research in other fields has uncovered the benefits of peer-like mentorship. In addiction recovery, for example, it can reduce relapse and rehospitalization, and increase treatment retention, according to studies. One of Raba’s clients, a therapist and fitness instructor from California, had struggled with anorexia since she was eight years old, enduring expensive therapy for four decades. “Nothing helped. I had never not been at war with myself,” she says. “I could text Caryn when I was making food. I could call her when I was eating. I was able to chip away at my habits inch by inch. It was the nuts and bolts of ‘I’m at the grocery store, help…I just want to buy lettuce, but I know I shouldn’t.’ ” Some professionals have yet to warm up to the practice, however. Fishman worries that certain coaches might not be recovered enough to help—or that treatment could get diluted. Others are concerned about the lack of federal oversight. “Theoretically, any person could say, ‘Now I’m a coach,’ ” says Rebecca Eyre, an eating disorder therapist and CEO of Project HEAL, a nonprofit that helps those with eating disorders access and afford care. “That does worry me, but the certification program helps define it.” Still, some clients say they cycled through years of expensive treatment and relapse, and nothing worked until they got a coach who could fill in the missing pieces of their recovery. Other clients who’ve experienced only mildly dysfunctional eating say that working with a coach prevented a more precipitous descent into a full-blown eating disorder. “Having a coach was the first time I felt like I wasn’t just another patient,” says Caitlin Crawford, a Los Angeles–based singer-songwriter who has been in recovery from anorexia and bulimia for over four years. “It’s definitely a game changer.”▪ 81

Hollywood Rising | C U L T U R E

ADDISON RAE TikTok’s reigning queen heads to Hollywood for a starring role in Netflix’s He’s All That. ddison Rae Easterling is really famous—and always knew she’d appear onscreen. Growing up in a constellation of small Southern towns, she thought a career in broadcast journalism would be just the ticket. But after three months at Louisiana State University, Easterling found TikTok, a social medium she took to immediately, attracting a mind-boggling follower count (80.4 million thus far) with skillful and undeniably endearing lip-sync and dance videos. It wasn’t long before she was off to L.A. Of course, internet fame doesn’t always add up to traditional stardom, but she’s unlocked that algorithm as well, landing her first major Hollywood role this month as a social media influencer (naturally) in He’s All That, Netflix’s gender-swapped remake of the 1999 teen rom-com She’s All That. Easterling knows you might have doubts about the breadth of her talent, but she’s ready to prove you wrong. “When you get labeled as one thing, people like to keep you there,” she says. “I have to work that much harder to be taken seriously.” To prepare for the role, she took acting classes and rewatched her favorite Julia Roberts and Jennifer Aniston rom-coms, in between launching a beauty line, podcast, and music career. It’s clear the multihyphenate wears many hats. Is there anything left? She points to the actual hat on her head, embossed with the word Producer, and laughs. “I’m not ruling anything out!”—ROSE MINUTAGLIO

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K-POP CONQUERED THE WORLD. NOW WHAT? Korean pop has become a multibillion-dollar juggernaut in record time, and the music industry will never be the same. BY MARIA SHERMAN ART WORK BY GEOFF KIM

K-pop | C U L T U R E

BL ACKP IN K: N AT T LIM /G E T T Y IM AG E S; BTS: C I N DY O R D/G ET T Y I MAG ES.

he year is 2013. Danny Lee, a project manager at a computer software company, walks into Kilroy’s Sports in downtown Bloomington, Indiana. It’s an oversize bar popular with college kids, filled with flat-screen TVs, Long Island Iced Tea specials, and bad decisions. As he walks in, Park Jae-sang, best known as K-pop rapper Psy, comes on the speakers. “Gangnam Style,” his viral hit, reverberates across the room. Heads turn to focus on the sole Korean American present. “Everyone is looking at me like, ‘It’s Psy’s little brother!’ So I do the dance. Everybody did it,” Lee recalls of parroting the video’s horse-prance choreography. “They were having fun, but 100 percent of the people were laughing at Psy. In Korea, he’s a legend,” Lee says. In America, he’s “a one-trick pony.” Fast-forward to 2018. Lee, by then the founder of Asian Agent, a music management and label consulting firm, and head of talent and partnerships for premier K-pop agency YG Entertainment, leaves the Billboard Music Awards in Las Vegas, where the biggest band on the planet, K-pop group BTS, has just performed. Its fans, known as ARMY, have been screaming outside for hours. An Uber driver shows Lee a picture of his daughters on his phone: “ ‘She’s 12 and she’s 9, and they’re at home right now learning Korean so they can understand what BTS is saying in its songs.’ Dude, think about that!” Lee says. How could you not? K-pop’s evolution essentially represents one of the most remarkable five-year plans of all time. By last year, Korean had become the second-fastest-growing language on the planet, according to Duolingo—thanks in large part to K-pop being the fastest-growing music market on the planet. In America, K-pop was once a niche interest. Now it is a dominant, multibillion-dollar global industry. And the music world will never be the same. K-POP—HIGH-CONCEPT, HYPER-STYLIZED POP MUSIC, known for its immaculate performances and Motown-inspired studio system—is the latest evolution in hallyu, or the current “Korean wave” of culture capturing international interest: K-beauty, K-fashion, K-dramas, Korean barbecue. But the

industry has been around for nearly three decades, beginning in the early 1990s with the formation of the big three entertainment companies: YG, JYP, and SM. Think of the companies as one-stop shops—record label, talent agency, and artist management, all in one. K-pop’s rise in the U.S. was slower, and involved more economic policy than you might have guessed. After years of financial precarity, South Korea passed a law in 1999 that dedicated a percentage of the nation’s budget to entertainment ($148.5 million), betting on the belief that exporting culture could bring money into the country. Spoiler: It worked. The average BTS ARMY fan, for example, has spent $1,422 on the boy band, according to a recent analysis by market research firm iPrice. If a fan likes multiple groups? That’s just good capitalism. But the biggest factor that secured K-pop’s global success is the internet. “YouTube made [K-pop’s dominance] possible,” says Tamar Herman, author of BTS: Blood, Sweat & Tears. Once international fans began bingeing the group’s mesmerizing videos with English subtitles—K-pop, well, popped. K-pop fans feel involved in the lives and careers of their idols. They participate rather than simply consume. They invest and buy stock in their favorite acts; they purchase ads in Times Square for their favorite singer. They engage in sumseuming, Korean slang for “streaming 24/7 as one breathes,” to boost chart positions. It is an ideological divergence from American pop fandom: “What the West calls ‘meet and greet,’ the East calls ‘fan service,’ ” Lee explains. “ ‘Meet and greet’ is a privilege. ‘Fan service’ means ‘We’re here for you.’ ” With that language, the artist is fortunate to meet the fan, not the other way around. That level of fan engagement is one of the biggest ways K-pop is changing the music industry. As Mark Mulligan, a music analyst at MIDiA Research, recently told NPR, “Western record labels are obsessed with building streaming numbers,” while K-pop is more concerned with encouraging fan participation. One genius innovation: placing collectible photo cards inside expertly packaged CDs to inspire fans to buy multiple copies. In some sense, K-pop fans are influencers themselves, amassing large followings and coordinating digital events to ensure their fave group is always trending. Fans often use their platforms for social good as well: planting trees to combat deforestation; donating rice and ramen to the Salvation Army; providing cochlear implants to deaf children. Last year, when #whitelivesmatter trended on Twitter following the murder of George Floyd, K-pop stans overwhelmed the hashtag with fancams, silencing the white supremacists. And brilliantly, when then-President Trump organized a rally in Tulsa in June 2020, K-pop fans registered for thousands of tickets they never intended to use, bloating RSVPs and preventing some of his supporters from attending. Of course, not all stans are the same. There are millions of K-pop fans around the globe, producing 6.7 billion tweets in 2020 alone. With numbers that large, and the anonymity that the internet allows, hate goes unregulated. Just as there are K-pop fans with “BLM” in their Twitter bios, there are those who harass Black K-pop fans who dare to call out racism within fandoms. Journalists aren’t immune, either. Herman says she has faced harassment from fans. “One time I got a bloody corpse in my DMs, saying, ‘This should be you.’ ” Such cruelty, however warped, is motivated by extreme devotion. Warts and all, K-pop has forever transformed the industry. “Groups like BTS have made it normal to see Asian faces in the Western music market,” says Seoul journalist Haeryun Kang. “Positive representation opens up the question, Can K-pop one day just be called ‘pop’?” BTS has worked with Halsey, and reportedly with Justin Bieber. Blackpink has worked with Lady Gaga and Dua Lipa. Clearly, K-pop is pop, but the music continues to be othered as something exotic, not unlike using the genre tag “world music” for anything non–European or North American. “[‘K-pop’ speaks] to a U.S.-centric, hegemonic hierarchy where things outside of Western music must be classified by region,” Kang says. Dropping the K feels like a distant dream in a world where anti-Asian hate has been emboldened, and yet, it’s 2021, and the biggest band on the planet is Korean. K-pop boy bands and girl groups are among the most tweeted-about musical acts in the world. K-pop idols are brand ambassadors for Chanel, Dior, and Saint Laurent. They sit front row at fashion weeks, hip-to-hip with the world’s biggest celebrities. They sell out stadiums worldwide. A handful of years can make all the difference. To quote Lee, Dude, think about that! ▪

MEGAN’S ACCOUNT The unlikely story of a cash-strapped single mom turned sex trafficking survivor, and the sociology professor who changed her life. BY JOHN H. TUCKER PHOTOGRAPHED BY BENJAMIN RASMUSSEN

Sex, Lies, and Social Media | P E R S P E C T I V E S

here are three types of pimps. Megan Lundstrom will tell you this. First, there’s the boyfriend pimp. He’s the one who romances you with promises of a family, who coaxes you into turning tricks to finance a blissful future. You think you’re in love with him until the physical abuse becomes too much to bear. Then there’s the CEO pimp. He’s flirty at first, but instead of wooing you, he works you to exhaustion with promises of modeling fame. He charges a “choosing fee” to enter his enterprise and a “leaving fee” to exit. He, too, gives you bruises, but this is business, and you’ve got a quota. Finally, there’s the gorilla pimp. You might meet him at a bar and wake up later having been drugged, kidnapped, and raped. Lundstrom will also tell you she’s experienced two of the three pimps. But that’s just the beginning of her story. The 36-year-old Coloradan gained most of her knowledge about the so-called life after her escape, having traveled an unlikely path from sex work to sociology. The study of active commercial sex exploitation, whether via pimp control or other modes of sex trafficking, is relatively new, with scholars mostly relying on secondary sources like court documents and police reports. But such resources are of lesser importance to Lundstrom, who lays claim to an underground gold mine of primary source material: a private Instagram account followed exclusively by active prostitutes and trafficking survivors. Created a decade ago as her only means of socialization, the account at one point was co-opted by her pimp as a recruiting tool. Since Lundstrom’s escape, however, her following has surged from around 50 to 2,200 women, providing a database now used to unlock the mysteries of a brutal but hidden crime and expand the parameters of social science. This past year has been the most revelatory yet. COVID-19 has shaken up all kinds of professions—including, it seems, the world’s oldest—pulling many young women into a dangerous line of work in order to make ends meet.

LUNDSTROM WAS BORN in Greeley, Colorado, a university town of about 100,000 that was founded in 1870 as an experimental utopian community but is now mostly known for its smelly meatpacking plants. Her childhood was sheltered, with fresh-baked cookies awaiting her return from soccer practice or orchestra rehearsal. She made the honor roll and earned a college scholarship. Plans changed when, at 18, she became pregnant by her boyfriend, a Kmart coworker. The couple married, and Lundstrom envisioned a quiet domestic life, not uncommon for Greeley girls. But after a second child, she says, their marriage broke apart. At 23, she and her kids moved to Denver to start a new life. She found work as a teacher’s assistant, but struggled to pay her bills. That’s when a friend told her about a website called SeekingArrangement. “She was like, ‘Think about it—you don’t want a committed long-term relationship; you just go on dates with rich men to nice restaurants,’ ” Lundstrom recalls. “It seemed super casual.” The concept, known as “sugaring,” has been around since the early 1900s, when San Francisco socialite Alma de Bretteville coined the term “sugar daddy” in reference to her much older sugar-magnate husband, Adolph Spreckels. It’s only grown in the age of online dating. Sites like SeekingArrangement (which Rep. Matt Gaetz allegedly used) will often pair wealthy men with cash-strapped “sugar babies.” Money or gifts are exchanged for going on “dates.” While Lundstrom didn’t realize it initially, sex is often a tacit part of sugar dating. If that sounds like prostitution…well, based on her experiences, Lundstrom would argue that it is. As opposed to escorting services, with inherent expectations, some sugaring sites market themselves as progressive, win-win dating brokerages. But it’s all a sham, says Benjamin Gauen, a prosecutor for King County in Seattle,

From the SEEDY STREETS to the HALLS OF ACADEMIA A former sex trafficking victim details her journey.

THE SHOES LUNDSTROM KEEPS THE SHOES SHE WAS ARRESTED IN ON A SHELF IN HER OFFICE AS A REMINDER OF THE PAIN SHE’S OVERCOME. “ANY TIME I FEEL OVERWHELMED, I LOOK AT THEM AND THINK, ‘I HAVE TO WRITE A GRANT REPORT? THAT AIN’T SHIT.’ ”

THE TATTOOS “MOB” STANDS FOR “MONEY OVER BITCHES,” AND HER CHESS PIECE RING-FINGER TATTOO SIGNIFIES BEING MARRIED TO THE GAME.

THE DIPLOMA LUNDSTROM’S MASTER’S DEGREE SITS IN HER OFFICE AT THE SEX TRAFFICKING RESEARCH CENTER SHE FOUNDED.

P E R S P E C T I V E S | Sex, Lies, and Social Media

who exclusively works on commercial sexual exploitation and human trafficking cases. “Sugar websites are the new frontier of exploitation because they blur the criminality of a transaction,” he says. The victims in his professional orbit are minors; buyers are affluent and privileged. SeekingArrangement founder and CEO Brandon Wade denies his site is a prostitution platform, suggesting that perhaps 5 percent of members “use it wrongly.” He works with the FBI, he says, and removes rogue users on a daily basis. “You want to hire a prostitute, there’s a much faster way to do that than play this dancing game,” he says. A “beginner’s guide” blog post on the site states “Sugar dating is just like any other dating. Sex should be aspired to, but never required.” And to be sure, not every sugar baby reports a negative experience. Some claim financial empowerment, while others question the difference between having sex with a stranger from a nightclub and a stranger met online. After creating her SeekingArrangement profile, Lundstrom watched her inbox flood with messages, many about sex. The first guy showed up with a giant long-haired dog in his luxury car. Back at his open-concept loft, he instructed Lundstrom to position herself on a particular side of the bed, then kept ducking out of sight, as if to adjust a hidden camera. The dog followed him everywhere. Lundstrom couldn’t go through with sex that night, though she did with the next guy, who slapped her and didn’t pay afterward. The third guy smoked lots of weed, listened to jam bands, and told her he’d post a favorable review on a local sex forum. That’s when Lundstrom realized she wasn’t a sugar baby. She was a prostitute. Around this time, Lundstrom met a man while filling her tank at a gas station. He rolled up in a nice car and showered her with compliments. He was a drug dealer, she later learned, but “because I grew up so sheltered in a rural area, he seemed exciting,” she recalls. The next month was a “love bombing,” Lundstrom says. The man moved in with promises of lifelong unity; she tattooed his name on her pelvic region as a mark of loyalty. This was the boyfriend pimp. We’ll call him Luther. (Lundstrom asked that the names of her pimps be withheld due to a fear of retaliation.) When Lundstrom told Luther she’d been on SeekingArrangement, his eyes widened. “Have you thought about working at a strip club?” he asked. “What about Backpage?” (Before being seized by the federal government in 2018 for facilitating prostitution, Backpage was a classified advertising website frequently used by sex traffickers.) Lundstrom was in dire financial straits; plus, her car had just broken down. Luther was investing in various businesses, he told her—growing marijuana and breeding exotic reptiles—and extra cash could help their future. Lundstrom agreed to sugar again, with proceeds going to Luther. 88

THE AVERY CENTER ANGIE HENDERSON (LEFT) AND LUNDSTROM STAND OUTSIDE THE FORMER SITE OF THE AVERY CENTER, A SEX TRAFFICKING RESEARCH AND SUPPORT SERVICES NONPROFIT BORN OUT OF THEIR WORK.

The arrangement continued for two years, until Lundstrom could no longer stand Luther’s violence. She moved with her kids in the dead of night and filed a complaint with the police. After this, and subsequent attempts to flee, Luther would track her down, each time pledging his love and paying for shopping sprees and fancy meals, creating an emotional addiction known as a trauma bond. The last time Lundstrom kicked Luther out, he put seven bullets in the babysitter’s car, she says. Soon after, some of his friends broke into her apartment. While she and her kids stood by helplessly, the men made off with $6,000 and all of Lundstrom’s identification documents. She had no one to turn to. No proof she even existed. STROLLING THE LAS VEGAS STRIP during a trip funded by a regular, Lundstrom was approached by a man in a Hummer. Later, at his mansion, he commented on Lundstrom’s tattoos: her arm emblazoned with “MOB,” for “money over bitches,” a common pimp phrase; and her ring-finger queen chess piece, signaling she was “married to the game.” This was the CEO pimp. Lundstrom mentioned her attempts to escape Luther. The new man—we’ll call him Otto—said he ran girls who scored big. The next month, Otto visited Lundstrom in Denver with a pitch. For a $5,000 choosing fee, she could leave Luther without fear. Absent that, Luther had the right to stalk her, Otto explained, as game rules dictated that prostitutes must be under pimp control at any given time. Lundstrom gave Otto a down payment and wired the remaining money that month. By the time she and her kids were headed to Vegas in a moving truck, Otto had settled the score with Luther: “She’s my property now.” In just one phone call, he’d protected Lundstrom from Luther in a way the police couldn’t, even after ten 911 calls and a restraining order. The following night, Lundstrom was collected by Otto’s “bottom girl”—a reference to a prostitute whose long-term loyalty earns her delegation power. As they worked a casino carpet, the bottom offered instructions. The first guy they propositioned turned out to be an undercover cop. “Welcome to Vegas,” Otto said after bailing Lundstrom out. “No big deal— you’re getting felony money on misdemeanor charges.” Even so, she’d need to work off court fees. Over the next several months, CONTINUED ON PAGE 132

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odesty might be the universal language of cover stars, but when Adut Akech says, “I never, ever, in my wildest dreams, thought I would have achieved half the things that I have now,” you believe her. On top of a wildly rapid career ascent—from an international runway debut walking for Saint Laurent in 2016 to being named Model of the Year by the British Fashion Council just three years later—her life trajectory has been altogether extraordinary. Akech was born on Christmas Day in 1999, somewhere along the route between her mother’s native South Sudan, where a civil war raged, and the Kenyan refugee camp they called home for nearly eight years. “I was a very switchedon kid,” she says over Zoom, draped in a vibrant orange scarf. “When you grow up in an environment like that, you don’t really have a choice but to be switched on.” But memories of having to pack quickly due to fears of kidnapping marauders are tempered by more innocent recollections of playing with a ball she and her cousins made out of rubber bands. “We were still kids at the end of the day,” Akech says. With the help of an aunt, who lived in Adelaide, Australia, Akech and her mom were eventually able to secure visas. At age seven, Akech boarded a plane for the first time and flew halfway around the world. “I didn’t know what to expect, but I knew that you could go to school [in Australia], and that was

one of the things I wanted to do so badly,” she says. In the car ride from the airport, she turned to her mother and made a vow: “Now that we’re here, I’m going to get an education. I’m going to buy you a car and a house. I’m going to make something of myself.” Akech, now 21, pauses to consider that long list of commitments and smiles, revealing her signature gap-toothed grin. “Yeah,” she says. “I made all those things happen.” At 13, Akech walked in her first runway show, a local production put on by her aunt. A meeting with a modeling agency during a trip to Melbourne a few years later set her on a path that would include campaigns with the likes of Chanel, Valentino, Givenchy, and Prada. In a true full-circle moment, Akech has begun working with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees—the very agency that operates the camp where she grew up. Her most recent career coup: being named an Estée Lauder global brand ambassador. “I feel like this is my moment to show people—and to show the world— that yes, Black women are beautiful,” she says. It’s something Akech has always known, despite the bullying and racism she endured in Adelaide as a tall, lanky South Sudanese refugee with dark brown skin. “It was the first time I was in a space with people who didn’t look like me, people who weren’t used to seeing people like myself,” she explains. “From a young age, I just told myself that I needed to grow a tougher 109

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A bright citrus like Smith & Cult Nail Polish in Color Me Curious ($18) is the ultimate eye-catching nail shade.

skin to avoid all this outside noise, but also to accept that this is who I am. This is how God made me, and that’s not going to change anytime soon, or ever, to be honest.” Now celebrated for her beauty around the globe, Akech sees her modeling work as a step toward creating a world in which people like herself won’t have to question their worth. “I do this for my little sisters. I do it for little Black girls all around the world. I do it for refugees. I do it for people who are not seen and not heard,” she says. “That’s my responsibility.” Stéphane de La Faverie, who serves as group president of The Estée Lauder Companies and global brand president of Estée Lauder and AERIN Beauty, cites Akech’s “charisma, charm, and beauty” as qualities that make her stand out. “Adut is one of fashion’s biggest stars,” he says. “We believe she will also become a beauty icon of her generation.” Friend and mentor Naomi Campbell remembers the exact moment she first laid eyes on Akech while working alongside Sean Love Combs on the 2017 Pirelli calendar. “I was in front of the makeup mirror, and I looked up and saw this girl behind me. And [Diddy] and I both gasped, like, ‘Oh my God, this girl is incredible,’ ” she recalls. “I was just mesmerized by her face and her aura.” Over the years, the two have forged a close relationship, making time to hang out whenever they’re in the same city. “It was no surprise to me at all how quickly she shot up,” Campbell says, adding how happy she was to hear of Akech’s Estée Lauder contract, and what it means not 112

only for inclusion but also for equal pay and equal treatment for models of color. “I’m proud of her. Every editorial I see just makes me smile, makes my heart smile.” Actor and close friend Jeremy Pope concurs: “Adut is a light and has such a special energy about her. My hope is for her to have whatever her heart desires.” Despite checking off more career goals in a handful of years than most hope to achieve in a lifetime, Akech isn’t looking to rest on her laurels: “Last year opened my eyes and made me realize, (1) Don’t take anything for granted, and (2) our time in this world is not promised. Anything can happen.” At the start of quarantine, Akech relished the chance to take a break and spend time with her family. “I was like, ‘Okay, cool, I’m tired, I need this,’ because the previous years were just nonstop,” she says. “Second week came, and I was like, ‘Okay, this is weird.’ I actually started renovating my mom’s house—that was what kept me occupied, and my mind busy.” As the world slowly continues to reopen, Akech is excited to get back to her modeling work and a few passion projects that she can’t reveal just yet. “When things start to get better,” she says, “I’m going for it.” But like many of us, she’s not quite ready to abandon her quarantine wardrobe of sweatpants and slippers. “I see my heels and I want to throw all of them in the bin at this point,” she says with a laugh. She holds up her hand, making her thumb and forefinger nearly touch. “If I wear heels now, they’re like, this high.” ▪

HA IR BY H O S HO U N KPAT IN AN D M AK EU P BY F R A N K B., BOT H AT T HE WA LL GRO U P; MA N IC U R E BY HO N EY AT EX P O SU R E N Y; S ET DE S IG N BY C O O P ER VASQ U EZ AT F R AN K R EP S; PRO DU C ED BY PHI LI PPA S ER LI N AT S ER LI N AS S O C IAT ES.

“LAST YEAR OPENED MY EYES AND MADE ME REALIZE, (1) DON’T TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED, AND (2)OUR TIME IN THIS WORLD IS NOT PROMISED. ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN.”

Coat, $9,350, top, $2,600, Chanel. Tights, Falke, $35. Boots, Prada.

Top, Raf Simons, $1,733. Her own earrings. BEAUTY TIP

Keep braided hair fully moisturized with Pattern By Tracee Ellis Ross Hydrating Mist ($18).

Dress, gloves, $950, boots, Prada.

BEAUTY TIP

A flawless finish is one application away with Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-inPlace Makeup in Espresso ($43).

Dress, Alexander McQueen, $10,600. Gloves, Wing & Weft Gloves, $550 (per matching pair). Bracelet, Bulgari.

Top, Raf Simons, $1,733. Gloves, Wing & Weft Gloves, $550. Watch, Harry Winston. Boots, Prada.

Bra, $87, panty, $50, Araks. Handbag,$3,300, boots, Prada. BEAUTY TIP

Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Creme de Soleil Decadent Smoothing Body Creme ($55) leaves skin soft and glowing.

Coat, Givenchy. Panty, $65, Araks. Garter belt, Agent Provocateur, $95. Gloves, Wing & Weft Gloves, $550. Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels. Boots, Prada.

Dress, Versace, $2,450. For details, see Shopping Guide.

Jacket, $7,200, bodysuit, $1,800, earrings, $525, necklace, $1,550, Chanel.

Top, Dolce & Gabbana, $1,395. Earrings, Chanel Fine Jewelry. BEAUTY TIP

Define full brows with Chanel Boy De Chanel Eyebrow Pencil in Deep Brown ($40).

Dress, Salvatore Ferragamo, $2,400. Metal chain top, Sportmax, $695.

Dress, Givenchy. Earrings, Samuel François, $1,700.

HA IR BY N I KKI N ELM S FO R MAU I MO IST U R E ; MA KE UP BY EMI LY C HEN G A N D MA N IC U R E BY E LINA OGAWA, BOT H FO R C HAN EL BEAU T Y; P RO DU C ED BY H ILL ARY FOXW EL DO N ; S P ECI AL T HAN KS TO 9 9 S C OT T.

ost teenagers nearing adulthood go through the same rites of passage: packing up their childhood bedrooms; starting college or a full-time job. Whitney Peak, who stars in HBO Max’s Gossip Girl reboot, has had a very different comingof-age experience. In 2020, she moved to New York from Canada amid a pandemic; lived on her own for the first time during quarantine; and began work on one of the most famous shows in recent history. Daunting? Perhaps. But Peak found it thrilling. The actress, who still thinks of herself as a kid, says she has relied on guidance from family and older friends to help navigate her new, surreal surroundings. “Living in New York as an 18-year-old is definitely crazy, especially at this time,” she says. “I’m meeting people I’ve watched on TV for years, and getting to be a fly on the wall in rooms where important conversations are happening.” Peak has also been named a brand ambassador for Chanel, which she can hardly believe: “It hits me pretty much daily that this is an absurd life that I’m living,” she says. And yet, it’s barely begun. Peak was born the youngest of four siblings in Kampala, Uganda, to a Ugandan mother, a hairdresser, and a Canadian father, a helicopter pilot and engineer. She went to boarding school, and swam competitively. Her family spent time between Canada and Dubai, where her father worked, and where she was coached by a Sudanese former Olympian. But after moving to Vancouver, British Columbia, at the age of nine, Peak got into dance, starting with acrobatics, and harbored a secret desire to be on television. She also transitioned to a public school, which was a bit of a culture shock. “A kid slid me a note and was like, ‘Do you want to be friends?’ ” she recalls. “And being completely terrified of the teacher calling me out and having to deal with being disciplined, I flipped it over and was like, ‘Pay attention.’ ” Her love of fashion was also kindled at the time, though it tended more toward cartoons than designer brands. “I would wear Hannah Montana and Hello Kitty T-shirts,” she says. “The Disney section at Target was my go-to.” Peak was convinced she was going to become a doctor. But she found herself watching Disney Channel shows like That’s So Raven and quietly dreaming of an acting career. “I didn’t think acting was a thing that people could just do,” she says. “I always thought I was very far away from that world. And that watching

was the closest I could get to being a part of it.” That all changed one day when she heard a commercial on the radio for a Disney Channel casting call and decided to audition. Her first role came in the film Molly’s Game, and she later became a series regular on Netflix’s Chilling Adventures of Sabrina. But Gossip Girl will be her first involvement in a cultural phenomenon. Gossip Girl and its prep aesthetics, mean girls, and anonymous texts have a distinctly millennial vibe. Peak’s generation has a different, and yet nostalgic, relationship to gossip. Generation Z teenagers have anonymous and private Instagram accounts—Finstas—and view the idea of exposing too much of yourself online as unwise, much like the secretive students who fed Gossip Girl’s mass text blasts. Peak believes this, too: “There’s a fine line, and what I’m learning now is you can’t really share everything you think. Being a child in the industry doesn’t really allow for changing your mind or making mistakes. So if I said something, and then later felt like I had outgrown what I said, social media makes it very hard.” Peak is just as interested in fashion as she is in acting. Lisa Bonet, Aaliyah, and Teyana Taylor are her fashion icons. “My style dictates how I want to feel throughout the day,” she says. “So if I want to feel cool, and it’s swag, I’ll do the big pants, maybe a shirt, definitely a cool sneaker, jewelry galore. Probably big hair. And if I feel a little more elevated, I’ll do a leather boot, and a pair of trousers, maybe a black trench coat.” Before heading to the Gossip Girl set in the morning, Peak likes to throw together “crazy” looks: headbands with cat ears, sweatpants, and a towel; a robe or boxers. (The show’s hair team put together a collage of her eccentric outfits.) She’s long had an affinity for experimentation. “Growing up, I would borrow my brother’s clothes, and my mom—being the religious woman she is— would be like, ‘Oh no. Wear more feminine stuff,’ ” Peak says. “And now I do love to dress up and go out with my friends and play into my feminine side.” But at the same time, “If I want to put on a pair of Calvin Klein boxers, I’m going to put on a pair of Calvin Klein boxers, and sag my pants. Men’s clothes are cool; women’s clothes are cool. They’re just clothes.” When she’s not acting, or thinking about acting and how her life will change once her biggest role to date is live, Peak likes to walk the streets of New York until she gets tired, do yoga, and read—at the moment, a collection of plays by María Irene Fornés that the playwright Jeremy O. Harris gave her. She’s still in high school, too: “I have an amazing virtual set teacher whose name, funny enough, is Nathaniel Archibald [the name of an original Gossip Girl character]. When I was interviewing teachers, I was like, ‘I can’t not have a teacher named Nathaniel Archibald; that’s hilarious.’ ” After Gossip Girl filming ends, she will head back to Canada to be with her family, enjoy the last moments of her anonymity, and think about future projects. Peak would love to work with Viola Davis and the director Whit Stillman. She once felt nervous about how fans would take the new iteration of the series, but now feels ready to show viewers what she’s been hard at work on. Her character, Zoya, is the “new kid in town” who struggles to fit in without silencing herself, something Peak has experience with. “[The original] Gossip Girl was how life was seen then. And this version is very much true to this time,” she says. “I’m excited for the show to air, and to see what this next chapter in my life is going to look like.” ▪

“My style dictates how I want to feel throughout the day. So if I want to feel cool, I’ll do big pants, a cool sneaker, and jewelry galore.”

127

Top, $2,300, pants, $2,300, necklace, $1,400, ring, $650, Chanel. Pumps, Amina Muaddi, $1,090.

Top, $2,300, pants, $2,300, belt, $3,675, necklace, $1,400, ring, $650, Chanel. Pumps, Amina Muaddi, $1,090.

Coat, $10,000, dress, $2,340, top, $2,340, Miu Miu. Earrings, Charlotte Chesnais, $500.

Coat, $10,000, dress, $2,340, Miu Miu. Earrings, Charlotte Chesnais, $500. For details, see Shopping Guide. BEAUTY TIP

Protect and perfect skin with Chanel Les Beiges Sheer Healthy Glow Moisturizing Tint Broad Spectrum SPF 30 ($40).

Shopping Guide COVERS ADUT AKECH

Dress by Prada, prada.com. Ring by Harry Winston, harrywinston.com. KENDALL JENNER

Dress by Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine.com. Rings by Bulgari, bulgari.com. Sweater, shirt, trousers, belt by Etro, etro.com. TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE 16: Jacket, earrings by Chanel, select Chanel boutiques nationwide. PAGE 18: Jacket, bustier top by Dior, select Dior boutiques nationwide. Briefs by NakedCashmere, nakedcashmere.com. Fishnets by Wolford, wolford.com. Rings by H&H— Holly Silius & Hannah Warner, @hollysilius.

PAGE 100: Cardigan, bralette by Fendi, fendi.com. Necklace by Bulgari, bulgari.com. PAGE 101: Romper, boots by Miu Miu, miumiu.com. PAGE 102: Coat by Gucci, gucci.com. PAGE 103: Sweater, shirt, trousers, belt by Etro, etro.com. PAGE 104: Bustier top, LaQuan Smith, saksfifthavenue.com. PAGE 105: Coat, sweater, boots by Louis Vuitton, louisvuitton.com. Bracelets by Bulgari, bulgari.com. SHE’S ELECTRIC

PAGE 83: Blazer by MM6 Maison Margiela, maisonmargiela.com. Hoop earrings, ring by Melissa Kaye, melissakayejewelry.com.

PAGES 106–107: Coat by Michael Kors Collection, michaelkors.com. Boots by Prada, prada.com. PAGE 108: Coat by Khaite, khaite.com. Earrings by Cartier, by appointment, 800-CARTIER. PAGES 109–110: Dress by Tom Ford, tomford.com. Earrings, ring by Cartier, by appointment, select Cartier boutiques nationwide. Tights by Emilio Cavallini, emiliocavallini.com. PAGE 113: Coat, top by Chanel, select Chanel boutiques nationwide. Tights by Falke, amazon.com. PAGE 114: Top by Raf Simons, luisaviaroma.com. PAGE 115: Dress, gloves, boots by Prada, prada.com. PAGES 116–117: Dress by Alexander McQueen, alexandermcqueen.com. Gloves by Wing & Weft Gloves, wingweftgloves.com. Bracelet by Bulgari, $122,000, bulgari.com. PAGE 118: Top by Raf Simons, luisaviaroma.com. Watch by Harry Winston, harrywinston.com. PAGE 119: Bra, panty by Araks, araks.com. Handbag, boots by Prada, prada.com. PAGE 120: Coat by Givenchy, similar styles at givenchy.com. Garter belt by Agent Provocateur, agentprovocateur.com. Bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, $490,000, vancleefarpels.com. PAGE 121: Dress by Versace, versace.com.

CITY OF ANGELS

PEAK PERFORMANCE

EDITOR’S LETTER

PAGE 54: Dress by Prada, prada.com. Ring by Harry Winston, harrywinston.com. Dress by Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine.com. Rings by Bulgari, bulgari.com. NINA’S EDIT

PAGE 55: Watch by Rolex, $10,800, rolex.com. NEW ARRIVALS

PAGE 57: Watch by Rolex, $46,900, rolex.com. SHOP

PAGE 69: Watch by Omega, $21,400, omegawatches.com. Tote bag by Dior, $2,950, Dior boutiques nationwide. PAGE 70: Watch by Breitling, $5,350, breitling.com. CULTURE

PAGE 91: Shirt, bodysuit by N°21 by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, numeroventuno.com. Boots by Khaite, khaite.com. PAGE 93: Jacket, platforms by Prada, prada.com. Top by Aisling Camps, aislingcamps .com. Fishnets by Wolford, wolford.com. Briefs by NakedCashmere, nakedcashmere.com. PAGE 94: Hoodie by Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine.com. PAGE 95: Jackets, hoodie, dress, boots by Celine by Hedi Slimane, celine.com. PAGES 96–97: Jacket, bustier top by Dior, select Dior boutiques nationwide. Briefs by NakedCashmere, nakedcashmere.com. Fishnets by Wolford, wolford.com. Rings by H&H—Holly Silius & Hannah Warner, @hollysilius. PAGE 98: Jacket by R13, r13.com. Bustier top by Moschino Couture, saksfifthavenue.com. Briefs by Sir., sirthelabel.com. PAGE 99: Dress, top, boots by Balenciaga, Balenciaga (NYC).

PAGE 123: Jacket, bodysuit, earrings, necklace by Chanel, select Chanel boutiques nationwide. PAGE 124: Top by Dolce & Gabbana, select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques nationwide. Earrings by Chanel Fine Jewelry, $10,400, select Chanel boutiques nationwide. PAGE 125: Dress by Salvatore Ferragamo, ferragamo.com. Top by Sportmax, us.sportmax.com. PAGE 126: Dress by Givenchy, givenchy.com. Earrings by Samuel François, modaoperandi.com. PAGES 128–129: Top, pants, necklace, ring, belt by Chanel, select Chanel boutiques nationwide. Pumps by Amina Muaddi, aminamuaddi.com. PAGES 130–131: Coat, dress, top by Miu Miu, miumiu.com. Earrings by Charlotte Chesnais, charlottechesnais.fr. Prices are approximate. ELLE recommends that merchandise availability be checked with local stores.

ELLE (ISSN 0888-0808) (Volume XXXVI, Number 10) (August 2021) is published monthly by Hearst, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 USA. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Catherine A. Bostron, Secretary. Hearst Magazine Media, Inc.: Debi Chirichella, President and Treasurer, Hearst Magazines Group; Kate Lewis, Chief Content Officer. © 2021 by Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All rights reserved. ELLE® is used under license from the trademark owner, Hachette Filipacchi Presse. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Canada Post International Publications mail product (Canadian distribution) sales agreement No. 40012499. Editorial and Advertising Offices: 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019. Subscription Prices: United States and possessions: $15 for one year. Canada: $48 for one year. Other international locations: $87 for one year. Subscription Services: ELLE will, upon receipt of a complete subscription order, undertake fulfillment of that order so as to provide the first copy for delivery by the Postal Service or alternate carrier within 4–6 weeks. For customer service, changes of address, and subscription orders, log on to service.elle.com or write to Customer Service Dept., ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. From time to time, we make our subscriber list available to companies that sell goods and services by mail that we believe would interest our readers. If you would rather not receive such offers via postal mail, please send your current mailing label or an exact copy to: ELLE, Mail Preference Service, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037. You can also visit preferences.hearstmags .com to manage your preferences and opt out of receiving marketing offers by email. To assure quicker service, enclose your mailing label when writing to us or renewing your subscription. Renewal orders must be received at least eight weeks prior to expiration to assure continued service. Manuscripts, drawings, and other material submitted must be accompanied by a stamped, self-addressed envelope. ELLE cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. Printed in USA. Canadian registration number 126018209RT0001. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ELLE, P.O. Box 37870, Boone, IA 50037.

MEGAN’S ACCOUNT C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 8 8

arrests were frequent. Lundstrom’s 5'8" frame, blonde hair, pink extensions, and angel-wing back tattoo left an impression on carpet-patrolling cops. At the time, Instagram was taking off, and Lundstrom built a private account to connect with fellow prostitutes—a chance at a social outlet, a community. But it soon became Otto’s recruiting tool. Monitoring the account daily, he barred her from communicating with anyone outside the life and forced her to post messages like, “My daddy’s amazing, you should come choose him up.” Her handle, as with most of Otto’s “girls,” included a modified spelling of the word bunny. Otto’s use of the account foreshadowed what’s now perhaps the most common sex trafficking recruitment vehicle: social media. Experts say victims are groomed by pimps who play the numbers game. “[Predators] could say ‘you’re beautiful’ to 100 girls just to get one bite,” says Annie McAdams, a Houston attorney whose lawsuits against Facebook on behalf of three underage victims have reached Texas appeals courts. McAdams has spoken to thousands of victims. “These kids are college-educated with normal family lives, but they become dependent on compliments,” she says, which sometimes escalates into gifts. Gauen, the Seattle prosecutor, has seen a “dramatic increase” in open-air prostitution this past year as well. “Women and girls are literally deciding between prostitution and rent.” In Vegas, Lundstrom learned of daily flights to Williston, North Dakota, a small town enjoying an oil and gas boom. Makeshift camps housed tens of thousands of temporary workers—nearly all men—making the town a vice den. Otto routinely dispatched Lundstrom to Williston, where she’d work until she met her quota of $1,000 per day. Afterward, inside her dingy roadside motel, she’d tug her sweatshirt hood around her face and escape into short-term slumber. Over dinner at a Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Otto praised Lundstrom and hinted that she might soon earn a car. Through Instagram, she’d observed prostitutes posting glamour shots with new luxury cars and designer shoes—the trappings of a happy life, it seemed. A week later, Otto’s bottom picked her up in a used S550 Mercedes-Benz—a gift in recognition of four years of loyalty. “Four years?” Lundstrom thought. For the first time since Luther, something pierced her brainwashed stupor. Lundstrom wondered if she was to blame: “Maybe

I’m just doing ‘being pimped’ wrong?” she thought. She started questioning everything and stopped meeting her quota. Otto cut off her money. That week, Lundstrom did normal things for the first time in ages—cooking for her kids, going to bed at a decent hour. Thinking about how her eldest child had attended five schools in three years, she gave her father a call. She was in crisis mode and needed to move home fast. When Lundstrom called Otto to explain, he flipped the script, announcing she was fired: “Don’t ever show your face on the strip again.” Marooned in her parents’ Greeley home with a criminal record, zero credit, and two kids, Lundstrom began booking buyers again. Inside a jail cell, where she landed after knocking on the Vail hotel room door of an undercover cop, she thought, “I can’t do this anymore.” Lundstrom eventually found a secretarial job at a doctor’s office, but when men called to make an appointment, she grew paralyzed, whipsawed by panic attacks and the occasional blackout. She was diagnosed with PTSD. At 29, she mustered the courage to give college a shot, earning a full scholarship to the University of Northern Colorado in Greeley based on her high school record. She chose finance as a major. After all, she was accustomed to handling money. Not long after moving back home, she learned Greeley was on the cusp of its own oil and fracking boom. Knowing what this portended for the community, she disclosed her own experiences while speaking about sex trafficking during an evangelical pastors’ association lunch. “You weren’t chained up. Why didn’t you just leave?” one woman asked. Lundstrom tried to explain the concept of brainwashing, but failed to make headway. For the next few weeks, she was glued to her computer, searching for terms like “cult” that might validate her experience. She filed paperwork to form a nonprofit to help other victims of sex trafficking, and set out on a makeshift lecture circuit, speaking at any venue that would have her—churches, rotary clubs, hospitals. During one talk at a police station, she connected her laptop to a monitor and posted Backpage ads specific to six regions of Colorado, each listing the number for a separate burner phone. Over the course of her presentation (and the next couple of days), the phones rang, on average, once every five minutes. Meanwhile, she continued using the Instagram account she’d started as a prostitute. But instead of posting about pimp life, she began posting about therapy, financial aid, housing opportunities. To her surprise, her following grew. Women

sent private messages expressing a desire to escape. She kept mentions of her burgeoning nonprofit minimal to maintain the intimate nature of the account. Occasionally, one of her followers would post about her own exit. “I thought if she could do it, I could do it,” says Lisa Junior, a formerly trafficked woman who connected to Lundstrom through a hashtag memorializing a friend. “She empowered me and showed me unconditional love through social media.” Junior now owns an aesthetician company. In her third year at UNC, Lundstrom organized a campus human trafficking awareness week. Seeking a scholar to participate in a panel, she was referred to a young sociology professor named Angie Henderson, who specialized in gender labels and perceptions of women’s roles. In an email, Henderson said she was happy to help, though she knew nothing about sex trafficking. The panel kicked off with the Greeley police chief and district attorney (both male) discussing the local trafficking problem. Listening to them talk, something began boiling within Henderson. “Why aren’t we talking about men and the demand for commercial sex?” she asked the audience. “How about we talk about teaching men and boys to stop sexually assaulting women?” The room grew silent. Lundstrom was up next. Henderson listened in awe as Lundstrom compared her North Dakota experience with the local fracking boom, offering a cogent macroeconomic analysis based on supply and demand. To Henderson, it was as if Lundstrom were the scholar. Afterward, Lundstrom dropped a thank-you gift at Henderson’s office—a candle she’d decorated with feathers. Touched, the professor got to thinking: Despite Lundstrom’s intelligence and eloquence in speaking about her experiences, it was clear she lacked closure. As a sociologist, Henderson believed the answers to any lingering questions could come from data. She emailed Lundstrom with an offer to help, and also a request: Might she be willing to help her create a spring seminar on sex trafficking? They decided to meet for coffee. Lundstrom arrived with questions— five pages’ worth: How are others recruited? How are they groomed? Was my experience normal? To Henderson, the questions were textbook sociological queries. Peering up from the paperwork, Henderson wondered why on earth Lundstrom was a finance major. She suggested they team up on a study but questioned how they could collect data from women actively being trafficked—a population that is so hidden, so inaccessible.

“Not a problem,” Lundstrom replied. “I have access.” The next day, Lundstrom asked her followers whether they’d be willing to be interviewed for research purposes. Several said yes, and Henderson applied for a grant. For a proper academic study, they would need at least eight participants. Lundstrom posted a note announcing the study and offering $45 gift cards to participants. About 30 minutes later, Henderson received a text: “I heard about the study.” Another text: “I’m willing to participate.” Suddenly, her phone was blowing up. By the end, she’d calendared more than 70 interviews. For six weeks, Henderson asked personal questions about horrific crimes. Some women had been raped at gunpoint. Others were raped while their kids were in the car. Tears flowed on both ends of the line. Following the interviews, Henderson shuddered at the findings. Eighteen percent of the women reported having buyers who worked in law enforcement; 10 percent of victims were trafficked by family members; suicide attempts and overdoses were common exit methods. Henderson lobbied her department to introduce courses on the sociology of sex trafficking and global perspectives on prostitution. Lundstrom guest-lectured, presenting PowerPoints on how to spot pimp tattoos and recognize lingo like “You down for the crown?” After one class, Henderson pulled Lundstrom aside: “Have you ever thought about a graduate degree in sociology?” Lundstrom laughed off the notion. It had taken her long enough to obtain a bachelor’s. “Keep it in the back of your mind,” she said. “You think like a sociologist.” HENDERSON’S RESEARCH will be published online and in a 2022 edition of the Journal of Human Trafficking—the first peerreviewed article based on direct conversations with active and former prostitutes who hadn’t come into contact with law enforcement or victim services. Meanwhile, Lundstrom’s nonprofit, the Avery Center (“Avery” was her name under pimp control in Vegas), is thriving, having received $1.6 million in multiyear federal and state grants. Henderson serves as the lead data analyst and training coordinator. Since meeting Lundstrom, she’s overhauled her academic focus from gender labels to sex trafficking. The feather candle Lundstrom gave her still sits in her office. Last year, Lundstrom received her master’s in sociology, with Henderson as her adviser. After four years in the sex industry, it turns out that her true calling was about the un-sexiest thing possible: data. “Research,” she says, “saved my life.” ▪

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PISCES FEB 19–MAR 20

DALLION, $2,995, HARWEL L GO N ME SIG DFR UN S EY, , 50 TIN 6 , 4 YG $ OD T, N S. A D CO N M PE

Good things come to Pisces who hustle, even if you WFP (work from pool). Your attention to detail attracts powerful allies after the 22nd. Highoctane Mars makes you the romantic pursuer all month, but easy on the love bombing! A gentler approach gives everyone a chance to test the waters before plunging in.

ARIES MAR 21–APR 19

N O

Flying under the radar won’t be possible with the Sun charging up your flamboyant, fameboosting fifth house until the 22nd. Redirect the attention toward causes you believe in. Influencers may invite you to collaborate near the Aquarius full moon on the 22nd. Summer love feels enchanted when Venus sashays into your partnership zone on the 16th.

M O

TAURUS APR 20–MAY 20

JULY 23–AUG 22

You’ve never been shy about expressing your desires, and with the proud Sun in your sign until the 22nd, why stop now? You’ll make a positive impression near the Leo new moon on the 8th. Thanks to a partnership-powered Aquarius full moon (the second this summer), a powerful complementary force may step in to accelerate a longstanding goal. Be receptive!

“PERIDOT’S VIVID GREEN ADDS UNEXPECTED EXCITEMENT—NOT UNLIKE THOSE DYNAMIC LEOS.” —Lauren Harwell Godfrey, designer

VIRGO AUG 23–SEPT 22

Shake the weight of the world off your shoulders. But don’t check yourself out completely! Mars in Virgo lights a fire under a pet project, then links up with Venus on the 14th, when your love life will be ablaze with passion. The Sun beams into your sign on the 22nd: Be ready to show your work or to workshop it with a trusted mentor.

LIBRA SEPT 23–OCT 22

Team Libra could undergo personnel changes near the new moon on the 8th. No need to share the spotlight on the 22nd, though, when a second Aquarius full moon brings well-deserved fame. Love is equally fruitful, and these fertile beams could bring a “maybe baby” moment. With your ruler, romantic Venus, in your sign after the 16th, it’s Libra’s choice all day, every day.

134

SCORPIO

CAPRICORN

OCT 23–NOV 21

DEC 22–JAN 19

Boss Scorpio is in the house, supercharging your career zone through the 22nd. Love can get fairy-tale-level blissful after the 16th, but make sure you’re peering through a clear lens, not a rosecolored one. Unconventional solutions—not denial—bring peace to partnerships. Reconnect to relatives near the full moon on the 22nd.

The new moon on the 8th draws a seductive companion into your orbit. You’ll share secrets and unrivaled moments of pleasure. But outside advice will water down your potent connection. By the 22nd, you’ll know if this bond has longevity. Socializing benefits your career goals after the 16th, so network with people who share your aspirations.

SAGITTARIUS

AQUARIUS

NOV 22–DEC 21

JAN 20–FEB 18

You’re back in your adventurous element, and the new moon on the 8th could reveal a journey too good to pass up. Cast a wider net when the Sun’s in your global ninth house until the 22nd. Teamwork brings warm-and-fuzzy vibes after the 16th. Some Archers may find love among the ranks—or have a rare chance to collaborate.

Opposites attract near the 8th, when the new moon in Leo connects you to a complementary force. Casual vibes could evolve into something serious after the 22nd. Circle the 22nd for a big reveal, as the second consecutive Aquarius full moon thrusts you (and only you) in the spotlight.

GEMINI MAY 21–JUNE 21

Your search for the perfect plusone could be over when the new moon on the 8th reveals a flock of kindred spirits. And with agitating Mars stirring up friction all month, new friendships will be a welcome distraction. After the 16th, Venus enters your passion sector, adding fire to your romantic desires. Take a risk and bare your soul near the full moon on the 22nd!

CANCER JUNE 22–JULY 22

Add a “benefits package” to a friendship before the 16th, when lovebirds Venus and Mars sync up. You might be amazed by how much common ground you share. An edgy attraction gets you hot and bothered near the full moon on the 22nd— and the paper-thin line between love and hate could be its lighter fuel. Don’t slack on work matters! The new moon on the 8th could bring a promising new source of income.

By the AstroTwins, Tali and Ophira Edut

CO U RT E SY O F T HE DES I GN E R ; FO R DE TA ILS, SE E S HO PP I N G G U ID E.

LEO

Domestic matters dominate the month, but you might not reach a key decision until after the new moon on the 8th. Bulls looking for new digs could find their dream address before the 22nd, while others may resolve a long-standing family feud. Career goals materialize near the full moon on the 22nd, but with destabilizing Uranus turning retrograde in your sign on the 19th, rely on tried-and-true methods.

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