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Cooking up success
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FEATURES
ON THE C OV E R
THE LEGEND OF DYMOND CITY
48. NC BBQ TRADITION
54.
Variety from the east to the west
Eclectic Melting Pot Vanished
A BBQ Sandwhich served by Abram’s Restaurant in Tarboro Photo by Alan Campbell
58. OUT & ABOUT Events happening in and around the 12 counties
64.
VIEWS FROM OUR 12
VOL. 11, NO. 3 MAY 2019
Eastern NC’s BBQ Throwdown in Downtown Rocky Mount
STAFF & CONTRIBUTORS
68.
Publisher
Staff
Kyle Stephens
Gene Metrick
kstephens@ncweeklies.com
gmetrick@rmtelegram.com
Editor
ALL IN A DAY’S TRIP
Airlie Gardens, Wilmington, NC
74. TIGHTLINES How to catch a Great White Perch
Thadd White twhite@ncweeklies.com Creative Services Director Michelle Leicester mleicester@ncweeklies.com
Jim Green jgreen@ncweeklies.com Deborah Griffin dgriffin@ncweeklies.com Sarah Hodges Stalls shstalls@ncweeklies.com Leslie Beachboard lbeachboard@ncweeklies.com
Layout & Design
Amelia Harper
Becky Wetherington
lharper@rmtelegram.com
beckyweth@gmail.com
78.
SIX QUESTIONS
Andy Griffin talks BBQ
80. GRANDMA’S KITCHEN Lexington BBQ sauce & Moravian Cookies
Advertising Executives Lou Ann Van Landingham lavan@ncweeklies.com Jessica Mobley jmobley@ncweeklies.com Lewis Smith lsmith@rmtelegram.com
82. MARK IT!
George Washington was an Eastern NC landowner
86.
BIOGRAPHY
Jeff & Johnnell Mills
Jenny White jwhite0225@gmail.com Editorial Contributors Corrine Luthy Sandy Carawan Doward Jones Jr. Janice Hopkins Sylvia Hughes
North Carolina’s
Sarah Davis
Eastern Living Magazine
David Friedman
P.O. Box 69, Windsor, NC 27983
Wade Betts
252-794-3185
Cal Bryant
twhite@ncweeklies.com
Roland Wyman
Eastern North Carolina Living is published by APG Media Eastern NC, and is a subsidiary of the Bertie Ledger-Advance, Martin County Enterprise & Weekly Herald, Tarboro Weekly and Rocky Mount Telegram.
5
halifax
Cooking up success A&M Bar-Be-Que is a pillar of Scotland Neck
I
Story & Photos by Jim Green
n the small Halifax County
town
of
Scotland
Neck,
Ann
Williams
has
been
30 years when she learned the building that housed A&M had been condemned. “My
mother
(Willie
Mae
cooking up success at A&M
Palmer) used to work for the
Bar-Be-Que for more than two
previous owner,” she said. “She
decades.
knew we could get it in shape so
“I think what has kept us
we could serve the public.”
successful over the years are
At the time, Williams – who
our products and service,” said
was an accountant for CVS – had
Williams, who opened A&M on
been cooking pork shoulders in the oven while living
I think what has kept us successful over the years are our products and service.
in D.C. She made the decision in late summer to return to her hometown. She, as well as family and friends, began
work
renovating cement
on the block
building, which also Dec. 20, 1995, at 107 West 11th
includes the space next door for
Street.
dining.
Williams is originally from
“We came down about every
Scotland Neck and grew up
two weeks and worked,” she said.
around family gatherings that
“It took a couple of months to get
involved
ready.”
northeastern
North
Carolina barbecue. “My cousin used to cook for us,” she said.
In addition to bringing the building up to code, the cooker had
to
be
redesigned
and
Williams had been living in
equipment such as fryers, steam
Washington, D.C., for more than
tables, tables and chairs, among
6
other items, had to be purchased. The business is only open from 10 a.m.6 p.m. on Fridays and 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m. on
but Thursdays didn’t work well, Williams said. Over the years, more
Saturdays, which means food preparation
eateries
begins on Mondays.
Scotland
A&M receives their pigs from a company in Wilson on Mondays. The staff will also start cooking some items such as collard greens. The pigs are placed two at a time in a large cooker on Monday afternoon, according to longtime employee Sharon Smith.
have
located
Neck,
in
providing
residents and visitors with more food options.
Some have said it’s the best they’ve ever had. It’s all in our ingredients.
Yet A&M has kept a steady stream of regulars and gained some new fans as well.
at A&M. It also offers grilled, fried and barbecued
“We have our good days and bad days
chicken and fried fish (sea trout), as well as
The cooker is turned on later in the day,
because there are other places to eat here,”
tasty side items such as potato salad, cole
and the four pigs cook for approximately 12
Williams said. “Our regulars come in all the
slaw, Brunswick stew, hush puppies, French
hours, until around 5:30 or 6 in the morning
time, but we also get people from out of town,
fries, collards and chicken and dumplings.
on Tuesday.
too.”
The ribs are pulled off Tuesday morning,
Smith added some of them have come
and the bones are removed. The meat is then
from as far away as Florida and Maryland and
browned again for 15-30 minutes, Smith said.
have raved about the food.
Williams’ staff then chops the meat for use in sandwiches, plate lunches and dinners. After seasoning, the chopped barbecue is refrigerated, and then steamed when it is ready for consumption. A&M cooks four pigs per week, Williams said. A&M tried opening three days per week,
“Some have said it’s the best they’ve ever had,” Smith said. When asked why, she responded with a smile, “It’s all in our ingredients.” The dining area has four tables. “It works pretty good because we have a lot of dependable customers,” Williams said. Barbecue is not the only fare on the menu
Barbecue, chicken and fish can be ordered as sandwiches or as part of a plate dinner. Combinations are also available. Beverages include tea and water, and pies and cakes can be ordered for dessert. Eat-in or take out is available. A&M does not provide delivery service. For more information, call 252-826-4027. Jim Green is a Staff Writer for Eastern Living and serves as Sports Editor of the Martin County Enterprise & Weekly Herald, the Bertie LedgerAdvance and the Standard Laconic.
7
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2019 Update from the Bertie County Commissioners The Blue Jay Recreation Center will open in 2019 providing safe indoor athletic programs and team sports.
Rebuilding and Stronger Than Before New EMS Station 1, Windsor, NC
Providing More Opportunities for Education and Community Gatherings Coming Soon, state of the art Cooperative Extension and Bertie County Library facility with community event and meeting space.
9
tyrrell
Down Home Cooking Tyrrell County duo uses barbecue to help others
G
Story & Photos by Deborah Griffin
ood, downhome, eastern North Carolina-style barbecue can be elusive in Tyrrell County, unless you are fortunate enough to know one of a handful of people who still appreciate the art of slow cooking a
pig – for hours - rendering fall-off-the-bone perfection. Charles Swain, 82, and Carl Willis, 72, are two of a
diminishing breed who make their own barbecue - each using his own secret sauce – similar, yet distinct. They are close friends who both grew up during a time when
“pig-pickin’s” were much more prevalent. In the South, a pig-pickin’ is just what it sounds like. People line
up at the grill where a whole pig has been roasted, and “pick” the part of the pig they want off the grill. Both men have modern grills, but they have cooked pigs in a homemade, converted oil barrel, and occasionally still do. “That is all we had for a long time,” said Willis. Originally from Beaufort, he remembers as a young boy, cooking a pig all night, in a hole in the ground, under the shelter of a tobacco barn, using oakwood coals beneath stainless steel beams. A former N.C. Wildlife Officer, Willis has been retired 23 years. He has, in the past, served on the Tyrell County Board of Education, served as a town of Columbia commissioner and is currently a county commissioner. He is also a board member on the Mideast Housing Authority, is board chairman for the Tyrell County Department of Social Services and serves on the board of directors for the Mid-East Housing Authority. And he cooks barbecue for fundraisers and events. “I stay busy,” he laughed. Swain grew up in Tyrrell County on a “two-mule farm.” He is a former grocery store owner, and has been cooking barbecue “his whole life,” he said. For 39 years, he owned four Clover Farm’s Supermarkets - one
10
each
in
Robersonville,
Swan
Quarter, Belhaven and Columbia. A
national
grocery
chain’s
arrival put three of his stores out of
cook,” Swain said. “And we will go anywhere – if the price is right.” The men cook everything from barbecue to a low-country boil.
people. During
cook to bless others - sometimes Columbia’s
annual
Scuppernong River Festival in
cooking for the pleasure of feeding people.
October, Swain, with the help
When they hold a cookout for
business. After the fourth burned,
Both men are United States
of his men’s class at Sandy Acres
friends and family, the purpose is
Swain retired. That was 23 years
Army Veterans, having served a
Freewill Baptist, cooks close to
twofold, said Swain.
ago.
decade apart.
At 82, he is in good health, is
They
are
deeply
involved
still active and said he has much to
with the Tyrell County American
be thankful for.
Legion, cooking often for them does
and preparing barbecue for the
woodworking, constructs outside
Besides
cooking,
he
Legion’s annual fundraising dinner.
furniture and serves on the Tyrell County ABC Board.
The county’s American Legion building sits on the banks of the
Swain lost the love of his life,
Scuppernong River on donated
Peggy, four years ago after 57
land, given in honor of a man killed
years of marriage. He has two
during World War II.
children, six grandchildren and three great-grandchildren.
both men and women, who range
He volunteered at the Tyrell County
Fire
Department
The Legion has 52 members,
The two men cook because cooking brings them joy - but they also relish the satisfaction they see on people’s faces. 700 pounds of barbecue to raise money for missions.
in age from 23 – 102. Each month
His barbecue sandwiches have
“It is to feed people, but it is also for people to get out and socialize,” he added.
for
they begin their meeting with a
developed quite a following. They
The social scene in Tyrrell
42 years and was a Emergency
meal. Swain and Willis usually are
have “as much meat as they can
County is scarce, so the cookouts
Medical Services volunteer for 18
involved.
pile on two pieces of bread,” said
are an excuse to bring people
Swain. Last year they raised over
together.
years.
For
the
Legion’s
annual
It was at the fire department
fundraiser, always held on the
the two men began cooking
Saturday of Labor Day weekend,
together and honing their skills.
the
“There is nothing we can’t
$3,000.
Recently, Willis cooked several
Often, Willis and Swain use
pounds of barbecue, an immense
enough
their cooking skills not just for
number of quartered chickens,
barbecue to serve 300 to 400
fundraisers and catering. They
and prepared all the fixings -
two
men
cook
11
which included coleslaw, baked
they used to.
beans, boiled potatoes and
“Time has changed so much,”
banana pudding – by himself. He
Willis added. “We love doing it
wanted Swain to enjoy himself.
- but don’t do it as much as we
A feast for friends and family – it was a pig-chicken-pickin’
used to. It takes us longer to get over it [physically] now.”
– as well as his wife Suzanne’s birthday. She and Willis have two grown sons. It took a week of preparation and most of two days to cook all the food, Willis said. He was up the day of the event at 5 a.m. to start cooking the meat. “I used to do this every year,”
The two men cook because cooking brings them joy - but they also relish the satisfaction they see on people’s faces. “And we enjoy the fellowship,” said Willis. “We love the people in Tyrell County,” Swain said. “This is a way we can give
Willis said. “And every year I’d say, ‘this might be my last one.’ It
back a little bit,” Willis added. Deborah Griffin is a Staff
is a long day. You are tired at the end of the night.” Both men lament people no longer get together as often as
Writer for Eastern Living and the Martin County Enterprise & Weekly Herald.
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bertie
A Family Affair Bunn’s continues tradition of excellent ‘cue
I
Story By Leslie Beachboard Photos By Leslie Beachboard & Jim Green
f there is one place
Jimmy Carter’s presidency.
in the small downtown
According to Russell, Bunn’s
of Windsor known by
Barbecue opened in 1938, and
locals and visitors alike, it would
has been operated only by two
have to be Bunn’s Barbecue.
families, the Weathers and the
The
building
that
houses
Russells.
Bunn’s Barbecue has had several
“It is the oldest operating
purposes over the years, but has
restaurant in Bertie County,”
housed the famous barbecue
added Russell.
restaurant for the longest time. “The origin of the building was
Wilbur and Grace Russell purchased the business in 1969.
a doctor’s office during the Civil
The recipe passed to the
War, and then later several Bertie
Russells from the former owners
County residents ran Texaco
- Bunn Weathers and his wife,
service centers from the building,”
Helen.
The origin of the
The
late
Wilbur
Russell
building was a
isn’t broke, don’t
doctor’s office
So, using the
always said, “if it fix it.”
during the Civil War.
original
“Bunn’s
recipe,”
Wilbur
and took
Grace over
restaurant
the and
said Bunn’s Barbecue Co-Owner
continued to serve the same
J.W. “Russ” Russell.
familiar
In fact, the old gas pump
barbecue
everyone
wanted.
can still be seen today, standing
The restaurant started with
in front of the restaurant. Gas
a simple menu of chopped
stopped being sold there during
barbecue, vinegar-based coleslaw
14
and baked cornbread. Over the years, the menu grew slightly to
began helping make the barbecue. I continued this job all through college,” said Russ Russell.
The Russell family has hosted two major
“Our sister, Amy, also helped out around
celebrations to recognize the 75th and 80th
include Brunswick stew, barbecue chicken on Tuesdays, chicken and pastry on Thursdays
the restaurant,” Russ Russell added. Russell laughed when asked about any
and hot dogs. Wilbur and Grace had three children, Russ,
sibling arguments over the years.
Amy and Randy who all grew up working at
He said, “No, not many but that is probably
Bunn’s Barbecue at some point during their
because mom and dad controlled the
childhood. The brother’s - Randy and Russ -
schedule of who was working and what we
continue to operate the restaurant today.
would be doing.”
and in between customers, co-owner Randy
restaurant has survived
Russell explained what it was like growing up
at
in the restaurant.
including
when I was somewhere around 13 to 14 years-
least
10
floods,
four
major
floods in its lifetime. After
each
flood,
old. I have been here helping at some point
the family, along with
or another for over 40 years between school
the community, have
and things,” said Randy Russell. His brother echoed those thoughts. “I spent many hours as a preteenager in the restaurant. My first assignment was the drink boxes. I would fill the drink boxes with the old-fashioned drinks. Then, I moved up to the candy counter. When I was about 16, I
anniversaries of Bunn’s Barbecue, which was founded in 1938. According to Russ Russell, 2019 marks 50 years the Russell family has owned and operated the restaurant. At age 86,. Grace Russell continues to visit the restaurant daily and puts her touches on
According to the brothers, the family
While standing behind the cash register
“ I started helping out around the restaurant
going,” said Russ Russell.
come together to make repairs and rebuild the iconic restaurant.
things.
2019 marks 50 years the Russell family has owned and operated the restaurant.
“We have had many friends help us through the floods. It is the support that keeps us
15
“She is the backbone of the business,” said Russ Russell. The
“They are always part of the family. Some of our
an
current employees have
extremely popular item on the menu. It
cornbread
sandwich
is
been with us as long as 22
is a piece of baked cornbread sliced and
years,” he added.
stuffed with barbecue and slaw. According
to
Russ
Russell,
the
The
two
brothers,
Randy
and
Russell
cornbread sandwich evolved from the late,
currently
local Nancy Rascoe, and is now famous.
and
Over the years, Bunn’s Barbecue has seen the rise and fall of the economy, but
take
four-month
eightshifts
operating the restaurant. “The people are the
Bunn’s Barbecue is on the National
has continued to thrive due to the support
fun part. We have multiple generations
of the locals and visitors to the restaurant.
come eat together at one time. I have
Register of Historic Places, and is located
“Windsor has lost a lot of industry
watched three and four generations of
at 127 North King Street in Windsor across
over the years including the tobacco
a family walk in the front door over the
from the Windsor Post Office.
industry and places like Wrangler. It has
years,” said Russ Russell.
Bunn’s Barbecue is open Monday
always been the local friends and out of
“I love hearing their stories of their
town visitors’ continuous support that has
memories of Bunn’s Barbecue from over
helped us stay open over the years,” said
the years,” he added.
Russ Russell.
Bunn’s Barbecue has attracted visitors
According to him, another thing that
from every state and several foreign
makes Bunn’s Barbecue so special is the
countries. They bring generations to
dedicated employees.
continue the tradition.
through Saturday during April through November and has shortened hours during the winter. Bunn’s Barbecue accepts cash or check only. Leslie Beachboard is a Staff Writer for Eastern Living Magazine.
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northampton
The Firehouse Barbecue Built Lasker VFD dinners came before the first firehouse
I
Story & Photos by Thadd White
t has gone on for nearly 50 years, built two fire houses, and
delighted people from all over
Northampton
County
and beyond.
tradition
goes
back
long
before their lifetimes. “It’s older than we are,” Moses mused. The
work
of
preparing
the hogs has been handed
And, while some modern
down from one generation
conveniences are now used,
of firefighter to the next with
the
Fire
each making subtle changes
Department still cooks what
Lasker
Volunteer
to make it his own, but never
many say is still the best
losing the integrity of the
barbecue around.
original cooks.
It all began in 1971, shortly
“The
ones
who
went
after the formation of the fire
before me were good about
department and before they
teaching us how it was done,”
even had a building to call
Lassiter said. “They did a good
home. Some 48 years later, the
I wanted to be a fireman to serve the community, and this is part of being a fireman in Lasker
barbecue is still touted for how delicious it is, it is still prepared by the firefighters themselves
and
the money raised is
nearing
the
point of paying off the department’s second
job of passing the torch so to
fire house.
speak.”
Looking back, those who lead
18
the
cooking
of
While all three said they
the
enjoyed cooking, it wasn’t why
barbecue now – Mark Lassiter,
they enjoyed the department.
Trevor Lane and Ben Moses
Each said they wanted to
Jr. – said the semiannual
serve their community as a
fireman, but they also enjoyed the work of
to have a lot of people working, including
and are back between 5:30 and 6 a.m. to
cooking.
younger people chopping wood, it isn’t that
begin pulling meat, chopping it and getting it seasoned.
“I wanted to be a fireman to serve the
way now. The older folks help as they can,
community, and this is part of being a
but many are not able to help as before,
fireman in Lasker,” Lassiter said. “I enjoy
and there just aren’t many young people.
cooking, so I didn’t mind it.”
“We made the changeover gradually
Lane echoed those thoughts.
starting with a couple of gas cookers and
“Once you join the fire department, you
then changed completely over a four to
know its part of what you do,” he said. “We
five year period,” he added. “By using
used to throw wood all night.”
the smoke boxes, I don't’ feel we’ve
Now, he said, the men who cook do it for multiple reasons. “Those of us who are usually cooking
sacrificed much, if any, of the flavor.” For a Saturday sale, the cooking begins
on
Thursday.
During
that
enjoy it,” he mused. “We enjoy each others
evening, firefighters make slaw and
company I guess.”
cook the fatback, which will be used to
While the cooking has changed, the
seasons the Brunswick stew.
firefighters still prepare everything for
On Friday afternoon, Lassiter, Lane
the plates they sell – the barbecue, slaw,
and Moses begin the process of cooking
hushpuppies and Brunswick stew.
the five hogs they will use to make the
Lassiter said when the barbecue events
barbecue.
first began, the meat was cooked over Oak
Moses said the group cooks 200
wood: but about a decade ago they began
pound pigs which are dressed out for each
the switchover to gas and continued to
dinner.
use smoke boxes to give it the wood flavor
The
without having to chop the wood. “The number of people in our community is smaller,” Lassiter said. “Where we used
What’s in the seasoning exactly? One would have to cook for the fire department to know. “We have our own way of doing it,” Lassiter said, offering a smile.
It’s about giving back to our community. We’re able to offer a good meal and people are able to support the fire department. The chopping of the barbecue used to be done by hand using a chopper
cooking
continues
throughout
the night, and into the wee hours of the morning – usually around 2 a.m. The cooks go home, sleep a few hours
made by Gilmer Dunn, but has now been mechanized to save time. A different cooking crew begins making the Brunswick stew around 4 a.m., and
19
it takes a good portion of Saturday to prepare. “There’s a lot that goes into all of it,” Lassiter said. “I don’t think folks realize how much work goes into this fundraiser, especially since we make everything.” Lane said he believes its better the way they do it. “All of it is just us,” he said. “We are the only ones in Northampton County that make everything we sell, and I think that’s something we’re all happy about.” The hard work pays off, however, as people come from all over Northampton County as well as neighboring counties such as Bertie, Halifax and Hertford. “We’ve even had a few people say ours is the only barbecue they’ll eat,” Lassiter said. The group said it is satisfying once Saturday night comes and people come to the fire department to sit down and share a meal. “It’s good to see so many satisfied customers,” Moses said. Lassiter added, “It’s about giving back to our community. We’re able to offer a good meal and people are able to support the fire department.”
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Lane said it is good to see some people who don’t get out as much because of their age sit together and socialize. The hard work, dedication and ability to support its community has helped the Lasker Volunteer Fire Department over the years, and the barbecue dinner has been a big part of their ability to help. LVFD Chief Michael Sumner said simply, “We wouldn’t have the doors
Dr. Robert C. Mills, OD Dr. Scott Matthews, OD
open without these suppers.” The first barbecue sale was held in March of this year, and the next one is slated for September. Those wishing to learn about the sale dates and times can find the Lasker Volunteer Fire Department on Facebook. Thadd White is Editor of Eastern Living, the Bertie Ledger-Advance and the Martin County Enterprise & Weekly Herald.
20
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252-792-2250
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21
hyde
Rooted in Tradition
I
Martelle’s provides barbecue for all tastes Story & Photos by Sandy Carawan n the South where the love of pork prevails, no subject sparks a more heated debate than that of barbecue. For southerners, it’s more than a
source of food; barbecue is a source of pride. Sweet, smoky or dripping in sauce, all across the South barbecue is known for its distinct and varying flavors, perhaps nowhere more so than North Carolina, where barbecue restaurants sprawl from east to west along miles of scenic roadways, each offering up its own take on this delicious delicacy. While western North Carolinians tend to prefer a sweet and tangy tomato-based sauce, in the eastern part of the state barbecue is known for its lighter, spice-infused vinegarbased sauce. Even so, nothing is absolute when it comes to barbecue.
with the Engelhard Fire Department.
His choice of cuts of meat, however,
What is absolutely known is that Martelle
“We realized right off that we needed
has been impacted due to the difficulty in
Marshall knows barbecue. He grew up around
fundraisers, so we started cooking pigs in the
obtaining whole pigs because of the restaurant’s
pigs and eating barbecue. He has raised hogs.
early 1970s,” he said. “Over the years that we
geographic location.
He cooks barbecue. He studies barbecue. He
cooked pigs we built our own cookers and
“We started not being able to get whole pigs,”
loves barbecue. Ultimately, he is a barbecue
started out with homemade pits with cinder
Martelle said. “So we started playing with some
connoisseur.
blocks and grates. Then different ones started
different cuts, and what we’ve come up with just
building cookers. They were all charcoal or
seems to be the best alternative to whole pigs.”
“Mustard doesn’t need to go on pork as far as I’m concerned,” points out Martelle, the owner of Martelle’s Feed House Restaurant and Oyster Bar in Engelhard. But when it comes to the cut of meat, smoke, time, texture and sauce, Martelle prides himself on his own style of eastern North Carolina barbecue. He explains his knowledge of cooking pigs dates to nearly 50 years ago when he worked
22
wood-based cookers.”
“It took me a while to get a blend that I was
Martelle said when his parents first got
satisfied with. The shoulder has a variety of
married they lived in an old tenant house in
meats in it: some that are similar to a ham, some
which his father cooked pigs in the fireplace.
that are similar to side meat, and some that’s a
“I guess I had cooking pigs in my genes,” he mused.
little bit similar to a loin,” he added. Martelle remarks experimenting over the
When it comes to preparing barbecue,
years has helped him determine that a blend
Martelle maintains that he looks for the best
of pork butts and shoulders makes a very
quality of meat.
compatible texture similar to a whole pig.
“We use the butts for more of a darker, redder meat and the
over the years. But it was probably my father’s.”
shoulder has more of the ham-
Martelle believes his barbecue is
like white meat. We use more of
the best because it is not only fine
the butts than we do the hams, so
and lean with no fat added, but it
you get a little more moist meat,”
is picked through to create a clean
Martelle said.
product.
Regarding time, he maintains
“It’s lean. It’s clean. It’s kind of
that barbecue takes time to cook,
mild. It’s not real spicy. I think when
and he cooks his at least eight hours
you put all those things together
to get the meat where he wants it.
it comes out as a good product,”
“We cook over charcoal, and Kingsford is our brand,” he said. “We
Martelle said. “That’s what makes it acceptable to people.”
don’t buy cheap charcoal because it
In addition to barbequing pork,
doesn’t work. Our barbecue gets a
Martelle also cooks barbecue
good smoke and a good flavor.”
chicken, barbecue beef, and pork
Afterwards, he processes his barbecue by pulling and handchopping it before mixing in his sauce, which is a vinegar-based sauce infused with salt, pepper, sugar
and
several
different
ingredients that make it a little sweeter. Grinning, he jokes, “I’ll tell you what the recipe is, but then I’ll have to shoot you. My mother gave me my barbecue sauce recipe, and I never asked her where it came from. I’ve tweaked it a little bit
“I don’t expect everybody to
on the table,” Martelle added. “And
say that I’ve got the best barbecue
every now and then somebody will
because that’s an arguable point.
want to put mustard on it.”
For southerners, it’s more than a source of food; barbecue is a source of pride. It’s like ball teams. You come from
Martelle’s
Feed
House
Goldsboro, Kinston or Ahoskie and
Restaurant and Oyster Bar is
they’ve got their own restaurant
located at 33301 US Highway 264
and style that they favor. If I can get
in Engelhard, NC. Open year-round,
compared to B’s Barbecue in
in the ball park with those people
lunch hours are Tuesday through
Greenville, which he takes as a
then I’m satisfied,” he said.
Saturday, 11:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.,
ribs. Martelle’s barbecue has been
compliment.
Martelle added his barbecue
while dinner hours are Tuesday –
“Every region or community has
has even been reviewed by North
Thursday, 5:00 – 8:00 p.m., and
their own barbecue. If somebody
Carolina author and television
Friday and Saturday, 5:00 – 9:00
compares me to somebody else
personality, Bob Garner, who
p.m. Sunday buffet is 11:00 a.m. to
that’s been in business for 50 years
gave
3:00 p.m. (closed on Mondays). For
and I’ve been here 22 years, I’m
recommendation.
pleased,” he said. North Carolinians take their
it
his
“Mmm-mmm”
more information, call (252) 925-
Whether you’re a barbecue connoisseur
yourself,
a
Hyde
1799 or visit them online at http:// www.martellesfeedhouse.com
barbecue seriously. And when
County local or an out-of-towner
or
it comes to taste, appeal and its
passing
Martelles-Feed-House-Restaurant.
through
or
touring
https://www.facebook.com/
other finer qualities, they
Hyde’s picturesque landscape to
are willing to debate the
witness its many wondrous sights,
Language
differences of what is the
Martelle’s is the place to stop for a
Mattamuskeet Early College High
best barbecue and even
bite of barbecue or chicken, steak
School in Swan Quarter and a
drive all over the state to
or seafood.
regular contributor to Eastern Living
bolster their own debate.
“Of course, we have our sauce
Sandy Carawan is an English Arts
teacher
at
Magazine.
23
edgecombe
A barbeque destination Tarboro’s Abrams draws ‘home’ folk
E
Story by Amelia Harper Photos by Alan Campbell
dgecombe
fancy place to dine may not be
County’s
claim
drawn to Abrams down-home
barbecue
decor. But customers looking for
fame is Abrams Restaurant —
great home-cooked barbecue,
a chain of seven restaurants
chicken, ribs, seafood and all
scattered throughout eastern
the fixins will relish the quaint
North Carolina that began in
pig figurines and old-time signs
1974.
that make it clear that barbecue
to
While the Tarboro restaurant
is the flagship of the operations
“We try to create a homey
and Tarboro is the home of
atmosphere
the
comfortable here,” Brady said.
Abrams
Amusements
Catering division,
and
so
people
feel
there
Abrams’ barbecue is typically
are also Abrams Restaurants
served chopped, though they do
in Scotland Neck, Pinetops,
serve pulled pork, or they will
Greenville,
even prepare whole hogs for
Ahoskie,
Windsor
and Wilson. But the Tarboro location
catering or special events, Brady said.
stands out as one of the top
The barbecue is vinegar-
destinations for foodies who
based with the proprietary blend
live in or are visiting Edgecombe
of spices and other ingredients
County.
developed
“Of all the restaurants, we are
founder
decades
and
ago
owner
by
Gerald
the one that is most likely to be
Abrams. It is a little milder
a destination spot, so we get a
and sweeter than some other
lot of people from out of town
varieties, yet it still exudes a lot
as well as our regular customers
of flavor.
from the area,” said Wendy
“Our
barbecue
is
also
Brady, general manager of all
healthier
the Abrams locations.
barbecues because we try to
Customers looking for a
24
is king.
than
many
other
eliminate as much fat and skin
The flaky buttered biscuits,
as possible,” Brady said. want
which are almost like large rolls,
to take a taste of the barbecue
are bursting with melted hoop
in their own home kitchens,
cheese and work as a delightful
Abrams sells bottles of its sauce
side dish or a small meal unto
at all restaurant locations and
itself.
For
customers
who
at some local Piggly Wiggly
Located at 609 West Wilson
stores. Restaurants as far away as
St. in Tarboro, the restaurant
Maryland also purchase the sauce
is open from 6 to 8 p.m. on
in bulk to try to bring a taste of
Mondays through Saturdays and
eastern North Carolina barbecue
from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays. Their buffet services, which
to faraway locations. marinated
are popular with customers, vary
fried chicken is also coated with
from day to day and include
a proprietary blend of flour and
beverages in the price. On
spices, and the hush puppies are
Mondays through Fridays, a lunch
made from scratch with Abrams'
buffet of barbecue, chicken and
own recipe as well. But the food
other assorted items is available
sensations do not end there.
from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. at a cost
Abrams’s
moist,
We try our best to treat everyone the way we want to be treated. Sundays for $7.49. The biggest
a great recipe for barbecue and friendly customer service,
for $11.49. Most popular items in the restaurant are barbecue, chicken
famous for our original cheese
seafood buffet with barbecue and
and hamburger steak. Popular
biscuits,” Brady said. “These are
fried children included is available
take-out items are barbecue,
probably the closest thing to the
from 5 to 8 p.m. for $11.49. A
chicken and fish. Home-cooked
cheese biscuits people remember
breakfast buffet is offered from
green beans and collards are
from their childhood.”
7 to 11 a.m. on Saturdays and
popular vegetable choices.
probably
home-cooking,
from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays
of $8.99. On Friday nights, a full
are
good
buffet of the week is available
most
“We
With
Abrams
Restaurant
seeks
to
follow the golden rule. “We try our best to treat everyone the way we want to be treated,” Brady said. Amelia Harper is a Staff Writer for the Rocky Mount Telegram.
25
martin
All things change…
G
Except the recipe for Griffin’s Bar-B-Q Story & Photos by Sarah Hodges Stalls
riffins Bar-B-Q has
Dallas passed away in 2015. For
been cooking in the
many years, Janet, Andy’s sister
Martin County community
was a daily fixture in the operation.
of Farm Life since 1946.
Today, Diane Lucido, Janet’s
But, according to third
daughter is the fourth-generation
generation cooker Andy Griffin,
to take part in the family business.
things looked a bit different in the
The team of fewer than a
early days.
dozen cooks are in the kitchen two
“It was just an open shelter
originally,”
he
explained.
“All
or three days a week, depending on demand.
cooked outside with wood pots.
When the employees reach
And there was no refrigeration.
the kitchen, which is located down
You made it and delivered it.”
a lane off the Fire Department Road in Farm Life,
I don’t have to tell anyone what they need to do. They just know, and they do. In those early days, Andy’s grandfather,
Andrew
cooked
two
in
for
Williamston.
Griffin,
restaurants
Later,
Andy has already been
there
for
nearly two hours. “We start at 4:30 a.m.,” Andy explained. when
we
“And are
through, we are through.” At 4:45 a.m.
on a “cook day,” visitors could hear a pin drop with everyone busy at their stations.
Andy’s
“I don’t have to tell anyone
father,Dallas, would take the reins.
what they need to do,” Andy said
At some point, many members
of the crew. “They just know, and
of the family have worked at the barbecue kitchen. Sarah, the family matriarch has retired, and
26
they do.” Griffin is grateful for such solid employees.
“We’ve lost a lot of people
making sausage.”
over the years,” when it comes to
Once all the kitchen work is
employees Andy explained. He
done, Rutherford takes to the
does not recall ever having to fire
telephone to check on his delivery
anyone.
route for Tuesday, Wednesday
“We
have
been
very
fortunate,” he said.
remains somewhat local while
When there has been a need for a new employee, Andy has never even had to ask. His senior employee,
Alberto
and Thursday. Tuesday’s route
Arteaga
comes to the rescue.
Wednesday takes Rutherford to the Virginia-line and back. Rutherford and Arteaga agree, at Griffins Bar-B-Q, it feels like
return to Farm Life, unload and
family.
Andy said Arteaga, who has
“Probably see this bunch as
been with the operation for
much if not more than my own
more than 14 years, will come to him and say, “I will bring you somebody.” The arrangement seems to work out every time.
It was just an open shelter originally. All cooked outside with wood pots. And there was no refrigeration. You made it and delivered it. stock the cooler. “I’m a little tough on trucks,”
Unofficially, he was around 8-years-old when he began his career.
Rutherford explained sheepishly.
“I would stand at a table and
Speaking of Andy’s niece,
Due to the routes, he has logged
I was on the grinder, even then”
Diane, Rutherford said, “Diane’s
more than 300,000 miles in 2-3
Andy explained.
like a Mom to us like her mom
years.
family,” Rutherford mused.
In all the time Rutherford has
used to be.”
“I
can’t
even
let
my
grandchildren come up here and
on
been on staff, he said, he never
shortly after Arteaga. If asked
Rutherford’s schedule, and an
remembers Andy taking time off.
In today’s world, employees
what his job is, the response may
important one.
Neither does Andy. He has been
must be 21-years of age to work
in the business, officially, for 43
in this setting.
Kyle Rutherford came along
be, “what day is it?” “On Mondays I weigh cups
Friday
is
a
big
day
“I take the bigger truck and pick up the meat in Smithfield,”
years.
work now,” he said.
Andy
said
inspections,
and get the product ready to
he said. “That way we will have
“Got out of high school one
go,” Rutherford explained. “Once
product to prepare for next week.”
day and came to work the next,”
are results of the changes in the
the 61-year old said.
business over the years. But he
barbecue is ready, we move on to
He will make the trip then
documentation and paperwork
27
knows there is a reason for it
Griffin’s sausage production
all.
has now surpassed that of “It’s all about food safety,”
he said. “We have to go through a lot to document ourselves.” Luckily
a
lot
of
the
customers have stayed the same. “When we first started the routes,” delivering the family product, “it was mainly ‘Mom and Pop’ stores.” Now Griffin’s barbecue is in larger stores as well. “It’s just always been here for me,” Andy said of his family’s business. “And I am grateful.” Today, Griffin’s is producing
their barbecue. On a typical week, they will produce 2,000 pounds of barbecue and they make 10,000 pounds of sausage. Andy
is
grateful
the
business has been around so many years, but at times had doubts. “Some years I wondered,” he said. “We’ve been very fortunate.” Sarah Hodges Stalls is a Staff Writer for Eastern Living, the Bertie Ledger-Advance and
approximately 2,000 pounds
the Martin County Enterprise &
of barbecue a week for sale.
Weekly Herald.
28
29
washington
The legend of Simps Washington County men carry on tradition
B
Story & Photos by Doward Jones Jr.
arbecue in Eastern North Carolina is as much a ritual as it is an invitation for dining. For diehards there is no debate of East, West, North or South offerings. All know which is the best - and that is right here at home. For many years Highway 64 wound through the midsection of Washington County, leading folks to a lone diner simply placed by the roadside. Known locally and to many traveling to the beach as “Simps,” it was here folks stopped by for lunch or dinner and visited for a while. The dining room was classic with booths and tables. The quick service was as legendary as the fare. Dressed in white aprons and hats, the staff added to the fare of a down-home dining experience. But that doesn’t even include the barbecue itself. The pork was pit cooked right outside the door so it was served fresh. They had a way of warming and flattening the buns that quickly became their signature. Add a little slaw to the ‘que, a cold soda and one had himself a memorable meal. In the beginning Simps was noted for its fried lace corn bread, but they soon realized “hush puppies” to be a dining room favorite. After adding the bite size morsel, they soon lost count of how
30
many they served each day as many folks stopped by to purchase a bag full for a drive-along snack. Sadly, Simpson’s BBQ closed after 45 years of operation, but even today almost two decades later, the food, people and atmosphere are remembered fondly, especially around dinner time. For several of the local fellows who frequented the eatery, their love of the establishment gave inspiration to keep traditions while spreading their mission of serving their community. First though, a little more history of the celebrated diner. Dan and Ruth Simpson opened the short order restaurant in 1957. Located in a service station, it grew in popularity as locals filled its small quarters and travelers discovered the experience of pit cooked BBQ. Soon after opening, Simpson’s son, Red and his wife, Rachel, joined the business eventually taking over the operation. Their daughters also became part of the business in later years making it a true family affair. As the business prospered, they added a more formal dining section with tables and booths. Here, smartly dressed waiters took orders and served diners and answered questions like “How far is it to the beach?” For locals in the know, the expectation
of a barbecue plate, or sandwich served with a cold bottle of Pepsi was reward enough for the short trip of dining out. Those who frequented the establishment still
Ray, whose father was a barbecue cook at a family restaurant, was a natural.
Ruritan Club where at times other members
“The Prices have a deep background of cooking pigs,” he said.
reflect on Simp’s signature sandwich where after
Scot took readily to the process also and the
filling the bun with barbecue and freshly made
two found working together went hand-in-hand.
cole slaw (if requested), an added bonus from
As their reputation grew, other organizations
pressing the offering on a hot plate gave the meal
asked for their help cooking
an added touch.
and serving BBQ plates to raise
The laid back atmosphere was an attraction
money.
Churches,
schools,
within itself. One could drift in, grab a sandwich,
and civic organizations have all
greet some friends and head back out without
benefited from their generous
any fanfare.
services in helping prepare the
The memories of the flavor of the food and
local favorite dinner plate.
people still linger for those who remember. The
Of course, there is more to
times spent dining out, and visiting also led to
the process than the cooking
inspiration, a way to record and pay homage by
on the fire pit. The real work
sharing the experience of good food and good
starts as they prepare the meat
deeds.
for serving. Here they offer a
Scot Luton and Ray Price, who live just down
The two are longtime members of the Roper pitch-in to help with the preparation and serving of the meals. Ray and Scot give credit to a “team effort” with fellow Ruritan’s in the community to accomplish a successful fund raiser. Today Scot and Ray express, “Simps was a
One could drift in, grab a sandwich, greet some friends and head back out without any fanfare.
unique appliance for grinding the pork.
good place for a meal that was always welcoming.” They relate those experiences of good food,
the road from the diner in Roper, have taken up
An old fashioned meat grinder, powered by a
the art of serving BBQ plates to help raise money
model T Ford axle attached to a spinning wheel
hospitality and service in the meals they help
for various charities in the community. Like many
provides the finished product ready to serve.
prepare for the grateful public.
of the locals, they were frequent diners at Simps.
The grinder draws a lot of attention as it
As Scot recalls “I ate many meals there; it was like
relates to times gone by and more fitting to food
home.”
preparation in a more labor intensive process.
When the establishment closed in 2002,
In fact recently, the duo provided the grinding
Ray and Scot had begun working together at
services for a mission trip fund raiser to India.
the Roper Fire Department, cooking and serving
Here they prepared the BBQ for over 1,000
plates to raise money.
plates, a record in their books.
Yes, barbecue goes a long way to contribute to the dining experience in Eastern North Carolina. And do not forget the hush puppies! Doward Jones Jr. is a longtime writer, photographer and newspaper veteran in Washington County. He can be reached at dowardjones@mac.com.
31
gates
Tarheel Bar-B-Que Family serving families for nearly six decades
N
Story & Photos by Sarah Hodges Stalls
ear the junction of
“We cook our barbecue all
U.S. 13 and 158 in
night long on the slow cooker,”
northern Gates County, there is a
Paige Hedgepeth explained. “It
sign that simply reads Tarheel.
cooks for at least 12 hours.”
It has nothing to do with
Carrying on a lesson learned
the Atlantic Coast Conference.
from her father - half hams and
Instead, this rural community
half shoulders are cooked for their
is home to one of northeastern
barbecue.
North Carolina’s oldest family restaurants, Tarheel Bar-B-Que. Don’t be confused because
“My Daddy always said butts made it too greasy and all hams made it too dry,” she explained.
their address reads Eure, North
Tarheel Bar-B-Que is well
Carolina - that’s only because it’s
traveled. Paige recollected one
the nearest post office.
family that came in annually from
Raleigh McKinley Eure, better known in the community as
Texas, buying 30 pounds and taking it back home with them.
“Gramps,” founded Tarheel Bar-
Their product has needed its
B-Que in 1960, according to his
own passport, making it across the
daughter, Paige Hedgepeth. The
Atlantic Ocean.
family lived about six miles from the site of the restaurant.
Paige elaborated, “I know we’ve had some of our barbecue
“I’ve been around here since I was two,” said Hedgepeth, the now co-owner.
that’s been sent to Germany, to somebody’s son in the military.” The military has a special place
She and her two sisters spent
in the heart of Tarheel Bar-B-Que.
time in the restaurant at various
Two very special American flags
points. Since 1986, Hedgepeth
adorn the walls of the restaurant.
has run the business with her husband, Ricky. Depending
Virginia in Kuwait on the fourth of on
business,
Tarheel cooks two or three days a week.
32
“One was flown over Camp July,” Ricky explained. A local soldier from that camp brought the flag home to be
displayed in the establishment. “The other was under the seat of an F-18 Warthog as it flew over Afghanistan.” The pilot, who was from the area, presented it to the restaurant family. Both members of the couple smile when they talk about the flags. “It means a lot to know we are thought of this way,” she explained. Katie Askew Stallings, her husband, Les, and
Unfortunately the “coffee group” members
grease drains right out,” she said. “It never just
have all passed away, and the restaurant only
sits in the grease.”
opens for breakfast on Saturdays. When asked how hard it is for a small, family business to make it these days, Paige did not hesitate to respond. harder,” she said. “Next to impossible,” Ricky added.
opportunities to “come home” from Suffolk,
loyal following is a bit habitual
Virginia and have a meal at Tarheel. On this
when it comes to their regular
visit, the trio made it in for lunch.
seats.
“This will always be home,” Greene
“They
come
in
and
“They are like a lost puppy.” Nevertheless, they stay and eat.
is one of the things that keeps the Hedgepeths going.
delicious country food. We love eating here.
explained.
feel at home when we eat at Tarheel Bar-BThe feeling their clientele is more like family
Good service,
someone is in their seat,” he
explained referring to Gates County. “And we Que.”
trying to be a little more healthy,” Ricky said. The people and the stories which have
But together with their 16 employees and
walked in and out the door over the years are
loyal customer base, the Tarheel Bar-B-Que
eatery specials visitor’s will not find on a menu.
family keeps Gramp’s legacy alive. In an era of healthy eating, Ricky has
“A lot of it is like a family,” Paige explained.
adapted his cooking methods to ensure
“For years there was the coffee group. They
the best outcome for the product as Paige
were here every morning.”
explained.
But like with families, things change.
occasional special on the menu. “We wanted to try something to grab those
According to Ricky, their
Stallings smiled. “We love eating here.”
something new. Now, turkey barbecue is an
“Each year it’s harder and
her sister, Gladys Greene, look forward to their
“Good service, delicious country food,” Katie
Recently the restaurant has ventured into
“Our pork is cooked on racks where the
“There was the guy that was riding the horses from Florida to New York,” Ricky reminded Paige. Paige laughed, “And there was the one riding a unicycle coast to coast.” “A lot of travelers from all over everywhere,”
33
Ricky
said.
people,
“Seeing
talking
to
different
of Tarheel next door, he explained
different
as Paige shook her head. That
people.”
wasn’t all the story.
Paige said that is Ricky’s favorite part of it all. She
quickly
Years later the FBI came back to do an extensive search of the
remembered
something. “Tell her about Barbara Bush,” Paige told her husband. Ricky held up his hand. “Not that one,” he explained. He explained this Barbara Bush was reportedly linked to the Dixie Mafia, a southern criminal ring that operated widely in the past 30 years. “She said they had been involved in a robbery and murder
area in relation to this case, which had remained open many years. The
Tarheel
crew
helped
investigators any way they were able as the search was behind the original restaurant. The case was then closed after they could not find what they needed. “We’ve seen a lot around here,” Ricky laughed.
in Oak City on the way to Virginia
“Yes, we have,” added Paige.
Beach,” Ricky said of the visit years
Sarah Hodges Stalls is a Staff
ago.
Writer for Eastern Living, the Bertie-
Supposedly, they buried a
Ledger Advance and the Martin
body behind the original location
County Enterprise & Weekly Herald.
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35
nash
Best in the Carolinas George’s Sauces offer variety for all
O
Story by Amelia Harper Photos by Sarah Louya
ne of Nash County’s
George’s sauces also come
bigger claims to fame
in a hot vinegar-based variety
in the culinary world
that packs more heat, and in a
of barbecue is the creation and
special barbecue formula that is
manufacture of George’s Sauces,
tomato-based.
which capture the quintessential
All these sauces are still
taste of eastern North Carolina
made with the same personal
barbecue in a bottled form that
care as the original product that
can transform a variety of meats
was developed more than four
into a taste sensation.
decades ago in a home kitchen
Available in three different
in Rocky Mount.
varieties that can be used alone,
George’s Original Barbecue
mixed in various combinations
Sauce was developed in 1975
or as the basis for personalized
by George Stallings of Rocky
recipes, George’s Sauces are used
Mount. George and his brother,
in home kitchens and restaurants
Ed, made the sauce as a hobby,
in the Carolinas and beyond. In fact, George’s Original
Barbecue
Sauce was chosen by Rachel Ray Every Day magazine as the “Best in the Carolinas.” George’s Original Barbecue Sauce is
Everything we do here revolves around faith and family.
vinegar-based sauce
36
with a proprietary blend of
but the product became so
crushed red peppers, apples and
popular with family and friends
spices.
that the brothers began making
batches in their garage to sell.
own for a year, but as the business
revolves around faith and family,”
“We want to grow, but we
The Chapell family of Nashville
expanded, Brian left his job as
Brian Hassell said. “We are also
never want to outgrow this
was among their most faithful
planning director for the town of
trying to make things always
process,” Brian Hassell said. “In
customers, and Beth Chapell
Nashville and joined the team at
better for our employees so they
the world today where so much
eventually bought the business,
George’s Sauces in 2018.
can have a good work-life balance.
said Ashley Hassell, who currently
Since then, the company has
relationships with old customers
grown even more.
owns the business. Under the leadership of Beth
The Hassells focused their
Chapell, the sauce began to be
efforts
distributed in the area in Food
strategies and on streamlining
Lion stores and some other
production at their operations
outlets until it became well-
center in Nash County. However,
known in the community.
keeping the personal touch on
George’s Sauces also was picked up by regional Walmart stores and appeared in more than
on
new
marketing
the product has remained a priority. “The products are all made by hand so we don’t have automated
250 Walmart stores by 2013. a
machinery making the product.
household name at that point,”
There is no line — there are just
Hassell said.
people,” Ashley Hassell said.
“It
became
more
of
We also are working to strengthen as we build relationships with new customers.”
is mass produced, we make our products in small batches. We make every pot ourselves and mix the spices ourselves. The
We know who we are. We know what we do. And, we do it really well. The results are paying off in the growth of company morale and
quality control is us. At the end of the day, we never want to forget who we are.
After owning the business
Working as a team gives the
sales. With just eight employees
for more than 25 years, the
couple more time to spend with
— three of them part-time — the
“We know who we are. We
Chapells sold George’s Sauces to
their family and to concentrate
company makes about 4,000
know what we do. And, we do it
their daughter, Ashley, and her
on the employees they count as
16-ounce bottles or 750 gallon-
really well.”
husband, Brian, in April 2017.
family as well.
size containers of barbecue sauce
Ashley ran the business on her
“Everything
we
do
here
each day.
Amelia Harper is a Staff Writer for the Rocky Mount Telegram.
37
beaufort
Smoke on the Water Rotarians use annual cook-off to help others
S
Story by Thadd White Photos by Roland Wyman
moke on the Water
and well-liked barbecue cooking
has a storied history
challenges.
in downtown Washington. What began as a way to
In
addition
to
barbecue, there is also a chili cooking challenge.
promote the historic downtown
The event draws thousands
portion of Washington now serves
to the downtown Washington
as a fundraiser to allow the Noon
waterfront each year, and draws
Rotary Club of Washington the
cooks from up and down the
opportunity to give back to the
Eastern Seaboard.
community.
“Every penny goes to nonprofit
“We want to be a fun and family event everyone can come
groups to help them with their missions,” Anderson said.
out and enjoy,” said Festival
Smoke on the Water began
Director Pam Anderson. “You can
under Anderson’s tutelage some 22 years ago. It was
Every penny goes
her brainchild when
to nonprofit groups
Historic
to help them with
Association.
their missions.
on the water, and that’s
she was hired by the Downtown
Washington Merchant “I saw steam rising how it began,” she said. The
barbecue
come out and get good barbecue,
cook-off had its roots with the
but you can also spend the day
downtown
and not spend a dime and still
Anderson continued to run the
enjoy it if you want to.”
festival for five years before
merchants,
and
Smoke on the Water has
moving in a different direction.
become one of eastern North
She said running the festival got to
Carolina’s
be too much and she had to turn
38
most
well-attended
the festival over to others.
On Friday afternoon, the cooks and vendors
Over the course of the years, the festival
arrive and begin setting up. The Chief Cook
suffered and began to need new life. That’s
meeting happens at 5 p.m., and that's when
when the Noon Rotary Club stepped in in
the contestants learn rules and procedures.
for third. All pigs are cooked Eastern North Carolina style and judged without sauce. The pigs begin being distributed at 8 p.m.
2009. They took over the festival, turned it
Normally there will be as many as 35 teams
into an event organized and led by volunteers,
cooking. Those entering the contest pay a $175
The weekend draws as many as 25,000
and used it to help become a fundraiser to give
entry fee, but the pig is supplied to them. There
people descending on Washington’s downtown
back to the community.
is a $2,500 top prize and other cash awards
waterfront. People have the opportunity
for second through fourth. Prizes are awarded
to watch the pigs being cooked Friday and
“I volunteered because I wanted to check on my baby,” Anderson mused. It didn’t take too long before volunteering led to Anderson taking back over leading the festival, and she has enjoyed every minute of it. “We are getting better organized and learning as we go,” she said. “We make more money, which ultimately gives us more money to give away.”
in two categories – gas and charcoal and wood. There
is
Showmanship
also
a
contest
for
decorating the cook site, and the winner receives $300. “Cooks come from as far away as Texas, and we have
Cooks come from as far away as Texas... They love the venue because its on the waterfront.
The two top sponsors for the event are
several from the Roanoke
Nutrien and Smithfiled. Smithfield supplies the
Rapids area,” Anderson aid.
pigs for cooking as well as making a donation
“They love the venue because
to the festival.
it’s on the waterfront. They also say we have a
It takes approximately 150 volunteers to make the event successful as it has grown.
with judging beginning promptly 12 hours later.
well-run event, and they appreciate the money going to charity.”
Saturday. On Friday evening there is a movie for the children and bouncy houses. There is also a ‘Pig
The event begins on Friday, but volunteers
The other contest is the chili cook-off. The
start marking of the streets and making
cost for entering one chili is $25 or two can be
Saturday morning begins with judging the
preparations on Thursday.
entered for $40. The prizes begin with a $500
barbecue and then the day will be full of family
award and a trophy for first place with $300
fun.
“It’s nonstop once Thursday gets here,” Anderson said.
and a trophy for second and $100 and a trophy
Parade’ takes places that evening.
There is a 5K planned for the day, as well
39
as a car show, amusements, train
every year,” Anderson said. “We
rides, live music and, of course, a
have a good group of people who
lot of barbecue.
really want to do good. It’s a lot
Once the contest is judged,
of hours and hard work, but that’s
all the barbecue is taken to
why it is a service project.”
a chopping tent where it is
She said it all pays off.
mixed together and sold for the
“When I get to hand a check
remainder of the event. Anderson
to someone and see the reaction
said the barbecue usually sells out
they have because they know
completely.
it can make a difference in
Some of those featured this year will be Squier Red and the Blues Band, Steve Creech Band,
someone’s life – that’s the best part of it all,” she said. Anyone
interested
in
the Wicked Mojos and Ruth
participating in Smoke on the
Wyand & The Tribe of One.
Water, serving as a volunteer or
Anderson said the entire event is a lot of work for the volunteers,
helping sponsor the event can go to smokeonthewater.info.
but it is worth it. This year Smoke
Thadd White is Editor of Eastern
on the Water will be held Oct. 18-
Living, the Bertie Ledger-Advance
19.
and the Martin County Enterprise & “I am amazed and feel blessed
40
Weekly Herald.
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41
hertford
Less Sauce Equals More Flavor Pork Fest continues long tradition
A
Story by Sarah Davis Photos by Cal Bryant/Roanoke-Chowan News-Herald
sk
Edwards
Several winners of Roanoke-
for the recipe of
Tom
Chowan Pork Fest have been
the secret sauce he
winners in the State Contest
uses for the barbecue served at
in Raleigh. One year the first,
Murfreesboro’s annual Roanoke-
second, and third place winners
Chowan Pork Fest, and he will
in the State all had earlier won
laugh at you, not because he is
accolades in Murfreesboro.
refusing to give you the secret
Once the judging is completed,
recipe but because, in his words,
all the barbecue is chopped and
“There is no secret recipe.”
mixed with the “secret” sauce by
Likening the dousing of well-
Edwards and a group of friends
cooked pork with too much sauce,
- Dennis Bennett, Ed Courtright,
no matter the recipe, to covering
Jerry
a good beef steak with A-1 sauce,
Charles Futrell, Dan Johnson and
Edwards explains that the real
David Lane.
“secret” to good barbeque lies
barbecue that has raised more
with the cooking and the cooks.
than a quarter of a million dollars
Though some might disagree, even some cooks, Edwards insists that the cooking gives it the flavor, not the sauce.
A.B.
Flanagan,
That, then, is the
for the Jefcoat Museum at the Roanoke-Chowan Pork Fest. How has it come to be that one’s nose leads to High Street
And the Pork Fest certainly
in Murfreesboro on the third
has the cooks to give it the
Saturday in May for a delicious
flavor. Each year, beginning early
plate of award-winning barbecue
Friday evening, in preparation
and fixin’s?
for
42
Cowan,
judging early Saturday by
In the 1990s, Murfreesboro
three certified, licensed judges
became home to the Brady
- chosen from a master list of
C. Jefcoat Museum, located at
approximately 50 provided by
201 West High Street (once
the North Carolina Pork Council -
Murfreesboro
approximately 20 cooking teams
Covering approximately 17,000
compete for prizes.
square
feet,
High the
School). multi-floor
museum
numerous
$100,000 for the elevator, and,
items of Americana from items
houses
within five years, the goal had
of drudgery, such as washing
been reached.
machines and irons, to those of
entertainment,
such
as
phonographs and organs. Because of the nature of the
In event,
preparation Brinson
for
Paul,
this Jimmy
Gray, and Tom Caulkins visited competitions similar to the one
building, if the collection were to
they hoped to start.
be accessible to all, an elevator
of his involvement in other
was needed, and an elevator costs
competitions, Futrell was able
money.
Because
As various fundraisers
to offer guidance concerning
and donation solicitations were
what to do, and, perhaps more
producing a small amount toward
importantly, what not to do.
the elevator, Wayne Futrell, a
The
steering
committee
competitive cooker and also
enlisted
an official North Carolina Pork
contacting Edwards, who was
Council judge, suggested the idea
known for the barbecue served at
of a pork-cooking competition as
Meherrin Baptist Church’s annual
a quick method of raising large
youth fundraiser.
funds.
group agreed to sauce and chop
community
support,
He and his
In 2002, the first Roanoke-
the barbecue for serving, and
Chowan Pork Fest was held with
they have continued to do so
10 cooking teams.
each year.
That year,
almost $10,000 was raised: A
Sponsors
were
solicited,
thermometer was erected on
and several major ones came
the school grounds showing the
aboard,
movement toward the needed
Brown (Smithfield Foods), Glover
including
Tom Edwards’ Secret Sauce:
Murphy-
1 gallon vinegar ½ pound brown sugar 3 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper ¼ cup salt Construction, CRMP, Metal Tech
just as a fundraiser for the Jefcoat
and Piggly Wiggly, among others,
Museum but as a community
as well as smaller businesses and
event.
individuals.
The community does love
In addition to providing an
it, supporting it as sponsors and
elevator, other major expenses
as volunteer workers, whether
that have been met by Pork Fest
setting
proceeds are roof repair and a
money, filling plates, or cleaning
sprinkler system.
Once these
up the grounds and removing
renovations had occurred, there
the garbage. Locals join cooking
was talk of abandoning Pork Fest,
teams from other parts of North
but it was decided that it was
Carolina, South Carolina, and
wanted and even needed, not
Virginia to enter the competition.
up
tents,
collecting
43
Judges, on the other hand, are traditionally,
given him when he was just beginning to
community
and deliberately, not local.
compete, as well as the ongoing assistance
Brinson Paul and Colon Ballance for
any cooker will offer another, if needed,
their dedication to this endeavor.
during the competition.
housing the Jefcoat Museum, the former
One local resident who has entered the Murfreesboro competition is Hunter Brown who has been cooking competitively for
The purchase of a ticket to Pork
about 10 years, whether in Murfreesboro,
Fest entitles one to
Ahoskie, Seaboard or Washington.
mouthwatering
more than the
barbecue
and
fixin’s;
Brown noted the Pork Fest always
one can tour the museum, visit old cars,
supplies the pig for contestants whereas
purchase crafts, and enjoy music - usually
other competitions may not.
local, sometimes otherwise.
Brown
especially emphasized the feeling of
For children, there are organized games
community of the cooking teams, noting
and other activities, such as face painting.
the assistance more seasoned cookers
For them, there is also a Pepsi Wagon from
offer to younger ones.
which hot dogs can be purchased. In most
Another
local
resident
who
has
competed in Murfreesboro is Futrell,
years strawberry shortcake is available for purchase.
feels
appreciation
to By
Murfreesboro High School building has been re-purposed. Edwards said that he is heartened driving by the building and seeing it still in use, noting that all the hard work for the fundraisers that have preserved the building are worth it. He sees not just the Jefcoat Museum but the Murfreesboro High School he attended. The Roanoke-Chowan Pork Festival is held on the third Saturday in May each year. Beginning at 8:30 a.m., one can tour Pork Alley.
Festivities usually continue
winning first place in 2006. He excitedly
In 2008, Paul retired as head of the
talks about his days as a competitor, which
Jefcoat Museum, and by default, head of
until mid-afternoon, with the barbecue
health forced him to abandon in 2008,
the Roanoke-Chowan Pork Fest. Colon
meal being served from noon - 3 p.m.
emphasizing the same feeling Brown
Ballance has been serving in that capacity
described among the competitors. Calling them “a family,� Futrell talks of assistance
44
ever since. Edwards
Sarah Davis is a retired librarian and regular contributor to Eastern Living and the
emphasized
the
entire
Bertie Ledger-Advance.
45
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121 Granville Street, Windsor, NC 27983 www.windsorbertiechamber.com (252) 794-4277
Thadd White Editor twhite@ncweeklies.com Jim Green Sports Editor jgreen@ncweeklies.com Sarah Hodges Stalls Staff Writer shstalls@ncweeklies.com
Michelle Leicester Creative Services Director mleicester@ncweeklies.com Jessica Mobley Advertising Manager jmobley@ncweeklies.com
• Roxobel • Windsor • Merry Hill • Powellsville • Lewiston Woodville Aulande r • Colerain • Kelford • Lewiston Woodville • Merry Hill Aske • Powellsv wville ille • Roxobel • Aula • Windsor nde r • Cole rain • Kelf ord • Lew iston B1 S Woo dvill e • Mer ry Hill DECEMBER 26, 2018 • Pow ellsv WEDNESDAY ille • SportS B1 Roxobe • DECEMBER 19, 2018
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tmas celebrates Chris
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Hope
re honored for contrib Christ Wreath Aaron Bazemo s Acrof Church of God in
109 S. King St • PO Box 69 Windsor, NC 27983 Phone: 252-794-3185 Fax: 252-794-2835 Founder oss Am eric continues annual trad a ition
In this
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history meets adventure 47
by Janice Hopkins
North Carolina’s
Barbecue Tradition N
orth Carolina is one of the states
vinegar, brown sugar, spices, and seasonings.
noted for its barbecue, and unlike
Commonly, this style uses only the
some other places, the single word
pork shoulders, cooked and chopped.
“barbecue” means pork in North Carolina.
The shoulder is made up of the shank or
To denote other meats, it takes two
bottom part of the leg and the Boston
words, for example, “barbecued chicken” or
butt or top portion. In the far west of the
“barbecued beef.”
state, a mayonnaise-based coleslaw often
Practically all barbecue will have three basic elements: a heat source, meat and
In the Piedmont, it is more likely to be a
usually a cover. Early barbecues often
red slaw, which uses a dressing, somewhat
involved cooking in a dug pit and being
similar to the red barbecue sauce, instead of
covered with foliage or something similar.
or in addition to, mayonnaise.
Today, cooks are much more likely to use some type of grill.
In contrast, Eastern-style barbecue sauce has no tomatoes whatsoever. Instead, it
However, when it comes to barbecue,
uses vinegar, pepper, sugar and spices in
the state has two main distinctive styles and
the sauce. Any slaw down East will have
many variations of those.
mayonnaise or salad dressing, similar to the
The western part of the state has Westernstyle barbecue, also known as Lexington or Piedmont. It uses a red, tomato-based sauce with ingredients, like ketchup, apple cider
48
accompanies the barbecue.
extreme western part of the state. Eastern barbecue is also much more likely to be “whole hog.” Large barbecue events often use a short
HOWEVER, WHEN IT COMES TO BARBECUE, THE STATE HAS TWO MAIN DISTINCTIVE STYLES AND MANY VARIATIONS OF THOSE. cinderblock structure with a metal grill of some type across the top. The hog is split in half, sometimes wrapped in something like chicken wire to allow turning without falling into the embers, placed on the heated grill with the raw side down, and slow-cooked. It is then flipped, and the skin side is cooked the longest. The sauce (sometimes referred to as the glaze) is applied near the end of cooking with a swab or brush attached to a stick. More may be added after the meat is pulled off the bone. Fire department barbecues have become another North Carolina tradition. It’s become
prepared Eastern-style barbeque. It was seen
important than the technique or the recipe.
as unique, something different, and they did
However, many newbies don’t realize that
a brisk business. This just goes to show how
things like texture, aroma, and appearance also
there are no defined borders in the two types
factor in.
of barbecue, but there has always been some crossover.
Tim gives an example. At one competition a family set up beside him with a large impressive
Barbecuing takes a special talent, and
trailer. They had all the furnishings and gadgets
competitions have developed. Hobbyists pull a
imaginable, and everything looked new and
trailer around the state with all their equipment,
shiny. This was the family’s first experience at
hoping to win and have the best barbecue.
competing. They loved to have people over to
Tim Barbee, who has participated in many
their house for cookouts, and everyone always
such competitions, explains some of his
bragged on their cooking and said it was the
experiences.
best barbecue they’d ever eaten. They were
He’s quick to point out that competition
sure they were going to win.
cooking is much different than cooking
By now, Tim was a veteran at the
barbecue at home. Just because all the friends
competitions, and he felt secure with his small
and neighbors talk about how wonderful
trailer and homemade cooker. Tim won this
someone’s barbecue is, it doesn’t mean
competition, but his neighbors came in last
the person is ready to win or even enter a
place. They had a lot to learn. Tim is quick
competition. That usually requires experience
to point out what the seasoned competitor
– learning what the judges are looking for and
knows. “It’s not the cooker but the cook” who
making necessary adjustments.
wins.
The rubric might vary slightly, but generally,
Janice Cole Hopkins is a professional writer
the greatest percentage of the score comes
with numerous published books, and is a regular
from the flavor and taste. The outcome is more
contributor to Eastern Living.
a good way for volunteer fire departments to raise money for their operations. They’ve become popular over the years, and politicians often attend to campaign and talk to voters due to the large crowds the events usually draw. In Bertie and surrounding counties, the Powellsville
Volunteer
Fire
Department
Barbecue in March has become an important tradition. The community comes together to support their fire department, preparing around 5,500 pounds of barbecue to sell in plates or to take away in cartons. People even come from other states to attend. In some respects, it’s almost like a huge reunion with family and friends who haven’t seen each other in a while getting together. Years ago, the Roaring River Volunteer Fire Department in Wilkes County always held an annual barbeque. Now, this was in the mountain region in the western part of the state, but these men
49
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The
7
301 Endless Yard Sale a h t e y “Puts Itself on” for
T
he 2019 edition of
the 301 Endless Yard Sale is June 14-15. Hosted by a variety of towns located along U.S. 301 in the counties of Halifax, Nash, Johnston, Wilson and Harnett, the annual 301 Endless Yard Sale takes place the third Friday and Saturday of June annually. Along the 100-mile plus stretch of highway, the event offers deals, antiques, collectibles, DIY furniture, crafts, and more. “We work to promote the event, encourage vendor locations, and keep an open line of communication between local stores, restaurants, residents, and county officials, but, at this point, we’re all sure the event would happen without us,” ,” said Lori Medlin, President/CEO County Visitors Bureau. “It has taken on a life of its own and we couldn’t be happier about it.”
firstt i m e attendee enthusiastically reacting to and sharing posts. The
four
other
participating
counties also have visitors bureaus work with the Halifax County Visitors Bureau to plan and promote the sale by managing the website
their
and the social media for the sale.
w a y
“We’re also responsible for the posters, brochures, and billboards you see in the region, but we’re just the middleman,” said Medlin. “The
down U.S. 301 in June. Those who would like
Now in its seventh year, the event attracts
vendors work with local businesses to set-up
to set up a vendor space and
over 15,000 shoppers, and over 1,000 vendors,
booth space and the shoppers come to buy
participate in the sale call Medlin at
every year to sell or buy.
from the vendors. People are very enthusiastic
252-536-1721 and she will put them “on the
about this sale. And it’s great for local businesses
map.”
People often stay overnight in the area to com or l
you see in the region, but we’re
happier about it.”
Shoppers interested in participating on
can visit
posters, brochures, and billboards
life of its own and we couldn’t be
being a
“We’re also responsible for the
Along the route, beyond the vendor booths,
Visitors Bureau. “It has taken on a
the 14th and 15th, as well as people interested
Over 18,000 people follow the Facebook
are quaint southern restaurants, ancillary local
in being a vendor along the route, can visit
page and the months leading up to the event
retail stores, and locally-owned hotels that
www.301endlessyardsale.com
find shoppers, vendors, past participants, and
benefit from the thousands of shoppers making
Facebook page.
take advantage of the two full days of the sale,
and the economy.”
and hopefully cover the entire 100-plus miles.
as well
the sale.
Medlin, President/CEO County
website and the social media for
happen without us,” ,” said Lori
promote the sale by managing the
we’re all sure the event would
Visitors
county officials, but, at this point,
1721 an
work with the Halifax County
stores, restaurants, residents, and
the sale
counties also have visitors bureaus
of communication between local
a vendo
The four other participating
locations, and keep an open line the
event,
encourage
vendor
Bureau
to
to and sharing posts.
52
or
like
the
plan
and
particip Shop map.” Thos
ar
53
The
Legend of
Dymond City
Eclectic Melting Pot Vanished Story & Photos by Sarah Hodges Stalls
“You know, that blasted railroad out of Jamesville is literally a myth. It was there, yes, but by heck, no one knows the first thing about it.” That was the picture painted of the Jamesville and Washington Railroad by railroad historian and author, H. Temple Crittenden. The Norfolk, Va. resident penned the exclamation of apparent frustration in a 1966 correspondence to Francis Manning, long-time editor of The Enterprise. Little did Crittenden know, the story surrounding the area’s earliest railroad was filled with adventure and intrigue. Sadly, the railroad nor the town it brought to life would see the next century. Most of the stories about the town now rest with those
54
who built it. Some names live on –
Dymond City; William Bissell and
although faintly – still synonymous
his wife, Sarah, 20, lived in the city’s
with Dymond City.
hotel. The census listed Sarah’s
In September of 1956, the last
occupation as hotel keeper.
resident of Dymond City was laid
The hotel, built in 1870, became
to rest under the canopy of a large
a temporary home to visitors from
magnolia tree, deep in Farm Life.
as far away as Ireland, England and
“He was a good man,” the local
the northern United States. Some
store keeper Jim Manning once
European visitors would later make
said of Matt Bissell. “If he told you
Dymond City their home.
something, you could count on it.”
In preparation for the 1974
Matthew Wesley Bissell, born
Martin County bicentennial, one
Sept. 25, 1885, was a child of
Farm Life resident shared her
Dymond City in every sense and a
childhood memories of the hotel.
drop in the melting pot of cultures
Dorcas Roberson, mother of
that would make up the promising
long-time Martin County deputy
railroad town.
Nathan Roberson, described the hotel as being “just like Kitty’s
THE HOTEL, BUILT IN 1870, BECAME A TEMPORARY HOME TO VISITORS FROM AS FAR AWAY AS IRELAND, ENGLAND AND THE NORTHERN UNITED STATES. SOME EUROPEAN VISITORS WOULD LATER MAKE DYMOND CITY THEIR HOME.
saloon on Gunsmoke.” As was the case in many homes of the day, the census listed two servants in the Bissell household: 9-year-old
Henry
Sykes
and
25-year-old Rosa Davis. Sister Beatrice came along, and little Matt was soon to follow. The Bissell family would be one of many around the globe that were drawn to Dymond City by the promise of prosperity. That promise began with a group of businessmen form the North, following the Civil War. Francis Lightfoot, a Pennsylvania timber merchant and surveyor,
His father, William Bissell, was
began buying land between the
born in England in 1842. It was
Roanoke and Tar rivers around
believed the elder Bissell was
1868.
brought directly from England by the business minds behind the J&W Railroad. Records
In an 1870 article, The Tarboro Southerner wrote: “. . . And for the past two years,
William
(Lightfoot) has been preparing
Bissell initially served as the
show
for the settlement of a first-class
line’s chief engineer and later as
town.”
superintendent. According to the 1880 census, the first and only census to include
That town would later be called Dymond City, a utility town built by and for the railroad company.
55
The
Jamesville
and
States with Fisher. The fellow
Washington Railroad and Lumber
Irishman married Fisher’s oldest
Company, the organized effort
daughter, Maria.
of the Pennsylvania business
A
devout
Quaker,
Fisher
group, was issued a charter by
arranged services for locals who
the General Assembly of North
shared his faith. This population
Carolina in February of 1869.
was once great in number.
Richard Waring of Pittsburgh
Evidence leans towards Megessa
and Henry H. King of Philadelphia
as the site for these services,
ran the company. Waring and
although others claimed the
King
hotel.
operated
the
business
adventure with the backing of
Fisher’s
English investors. Reportedly,
business
abilities,
although questioned, pulled the “English
J&W Railroad through financially
Capitalists” put in $300,000 in
the
treacherous times. Eventually, the
cash. For this, they received first
continued task would become
mortgage bonds on the entire
too much for him. Fisher would
assets of the company. Many
resign and turn over operations to
believe these bonds were the first
William Bissell.
of their kind – secured by property
Soon the face of Dymond
– issued in Martin County.
City would change for good. After
Lightfoot, who would later
numerous sales of the business,
be named company president,
the J&W Railroad made its final
moved to Jamesville to begin
passenger run on Jan. 25, 1892.
surveying
route.
The population once peaking
The J&W opened trade lines by
the
railroad
at 100, would drop to 10 by 1897,
connecting steamer ports in
the year the railroad closed for
Jamesville and Washington. The area’s exquisite cedar trees were popular items for sale. Making and selling shingles was one business that thrived thanks to the developed trade route. Legend has it shingles from Dymond City were used to reroof Mount Vernon, home to George Washington. A man who would leave his mark on the area for years to come introduced the shingle business to Dymond City.
a farm venture in the Alexandria
good.
Beaufort County.
Colony of the Argentine Republic.
“The crowds who celebrated
The Irishman came with his wife
the event made the trip to the
and two daughters.
scene in buggies, wagons, and
H. Temple Crittenden alleged in a 1965 correspondence to
carts with banners flying to meet the train,” Bonner explained.
Martin County that Fisher came
By all accounts, Fisher and his
to Martin County “after being
family were well accepted in the
chased out (of the Argentine
area. Once word of their move
Republic) by Indians.”
spread among the friends of
Documentation of his claim has not been discovered. When Fisher took over, the
Fisher and Henry P. Nolan, visitors flocked into Dymond City from points around the globe.
The Nolans and the Bissells would be the last to leave Dymond
City.
The
Nolans
returned to Pennsylvania. William and Sarah Bissell would go no farther than Jamesville. Matt
Bissell
spent
the
remainder of his day near his childhood home in what is now Farm Life. The Bissells are buried together just outside Dymond City and now watch over the stories and secrets of what was
Abraham Fisher was chosen
railroad track was completed –
Megessa, the Fisher home,
by Waring to oversee operations
21 miles long – finally reaching
was built on land purchased along
“The story of the J&W is still
of the railroad after a slow
Beaufort County. An aged, yet
the railroad. His will, dated 1910,
percolating,” Crittenden wrote to
start. Although not recorded,
undated newspaper clipping set
described the property as, “200
Francis Manning. “I am hoping
it is believed Fisher arrived in
the stage for the celebration that
acres of woodland in N.C. situated
that a bit of information will
Dymond City in 1872. Now the
followed.
on the old railroad and _ miles
eventually come to the surface.”
eclectic melting pot was heading towards her heyday.
Lottie Hale Bonner wrote of the multitude gathered along
from Dymond City.” Nolan,
who
would
once the promise of the east.
Sarah Hodges Stalls is a Staff serve
Writer for Eastern Living, the Bertie
The Fisher family came to
the track outside Washington in
Dymond City as postmaster,
Ledger-Advance and the Martin
Eastern North Carolina by way of
1874 to greet the first railroad in
had made the trip to the United
County Enterprise & Weekly Herald.
56
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&
OUT ABOUT! Out & About is a listing of events happening in and around the 12 counties which make up the
coverage region for North Carolina’s Eastern Living Magazine. Those wishing to have an event listed should sent it to: Eastern Living, Attn: Out
& About, P.O. Box 69, Windsor, NC 27983. Email events to Thadd White at twhite@ncweeklies.com.
MAY 23 SPRING CONCERT SERIES WASHINGTON – The Spring Concert Series will feature Wyldwood from 7-9 p.m. Thursday, May 23 at the Turnage Theatre in downtown Washington. The Beaufort County Traditional Music Association sponsors the event. For more information, visit www.bctma.org. MAY 24 ART WALK WASHINGTON – An Art Walk is planned for downtown Washington on Friday, May 24. For more information, contact the Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504. MARK WILLS CONCERT ROANOKE RAPIDS – Mark Wills will be in concert Friday, May 24 at the Roanoke Rapids Theater. Wills has hits such as “I Do Cherish You” and “Don’t Laugh at Me.” Lobby doors open at 5 p.m. and Theater doors at 6 p.m. The opener goes on stage at 7 p.m. and Wills at 8 p.m. For more information, call 844-778-5483 or visit www.rrtlive.com. The Theater is located at 500 Carolina Crossroads Parkway in Roanoke Rapids. ACOUSTIC MUSIC WASHINGTON – Acoustic Music with Wayne Stokehart will be presented at 6:30 p.m. Friday, May 24 at the Turnage Theatre. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252946-2504.
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MAY 25 COUPLES DANCE WASHINGTON – A Couples Dance sponsored by USA Dance Chapter 6046 will be held from 7-9 p.m. Saturday, May 25 at the historic Turnage Theatre. The cost is $5. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504. MAY 26 RECYCLED TREASURES HOLLISTER – Recycle Treasurers will be the topic of a seminar at Medoc Mountain State Park at 1:30 p.m. Sunday, May 26. The suggested audience of the program is ages 5 to 12. Register by Friday, May 24. Medoc Mountain State Park is located at 1541 Medoc State Park Rd. in Hollister. For more information, call 252-586-6588. MAY 30 VARIETY SHOW WASHINGTON – A Variety Show is planned for 7 p.m. Thursday, May 30 at the historic Turnage Theatre. The Beaufort County Traditional Music Association sponsors the event. The event is free, but donations are appreciated. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504. MAY 31 PANIC AT THE DISCO WASHINGTON – Panic at the Disco – a 1970s murder mystery – is planned for Friday, May 31 at the historic Turnage Theatre. The cost is $24. The show will be presented by the Arts of the Pamlico Players. The Theatre is located at 150
Sage Festival in Windsor
West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504. SAWYER BROWN IN CONCERT ROANOKE RAPIDS – Sawyer Brown will be in concert Friday, May 31 at Roanoke Rapids Theater. Lobby doors open at 5 p.m. and Theater doors at 6 p.m. For more information, call 844-778-5483 or visit www.rrtlive.com. The Theater is located at 500 Carolina Crossroads Parkway in Roanoke Rapids. JUNE 1 FISHING CREEK PADDLE ENFIELD – The 2019 Enfield Fishing Creek Paddle is planned for 8 a.m. Saturday, June 1 at Bellamy’s Mill. Those in kayaks and canoes can travel approximately five miles along the creek. Fishing Creek winds through rolling fields and woodlands of loblolly pine, gum swamp and cherry bark oak. The event is sponsored by the Downtown Enfield Restoration and Preservation Committee. The cost for the event is $30, and kayaks and canoes are available to rent. The meeting point will be on Bellamy Mill Road in Enfield. For more information, call 252-445-2234. JUNE 3 VIDANT BERTIE MEN’S HEALTH EVENT WINDSOR - Vidant Bertie Hospital will host its annual Men’s Health Event Monday, June 3 at Heritage House in Windsor. There will be multiple speakers, but seating will be limited. For more information, call 252-794-6653.
JUNE 7 SAGE FESTIVAL IN WINDSOR WINDSOR - The annual Sage Festival is planned for downtown Windsor on Friday, June 7. The event will be held from 6-10 p.m. and will feature the R.T. Johnson Band. For more information, contact the Windsor/Bertie Chamber of Commerce at 252-794-4277. JUNE 7-8 PLEIN AIR ON THE PAMLICO WASHINGTON – Plein Air on the Pamlico is planned for June 7-8 in the Washington Historic District. The event is for casual and competing artists of all levels, and the artists are welcome to plein on the shores of the Pamlico River. The event is sponsored by the Washington Harbor District Arts Stops and the Arts of the Pamlico. For more information, go to ww.artsofthepamlico.org/event/ plein-air-festival/ JUNE 8 CANOE THE SCUPPERNONG CRESWELL – Those wishing to canoe the Scuppernong River can do so as at Pettigrew State Park beginning at 9 a.m. Saturday, June 8. The trip will begin at the wildlife ramp on Spruill Bridge Road in Creswell. Canoes, personal flotation devices and paddles are provided. Participants must wear shoes appropriate for wading. Pre-registration is required. Call Pettigrew State Park at 252-797-4475.
59
&
OUT ABOUT!
JUNE 9 BROADWAY ON THE BIG SCREEN WASHINGTON – Broadway on the Big Screen will present Brokeback Mountain The Opera at 2 p.m. Sunday, June 9 at the historic Turnage Theatre. The event is free, but with a suggested donation of $5. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504. JUNE 10-14 NARRATIVE SELF PORTRAITS COLUMBIA - The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a mixed media narrative selfportrait workshop with a different twist June 1014. Led by Amy Gardner Dean – Resident Artist of Jerry’s Artarama – the session will explore the concepts of narrative self-portraiture to create mixed media and collage-based artworks. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts.org or call 252-7962787. JUNE 14-15 ENDLESS YARD SALE The 301 Endless Yard Sale is planned from 7 a.m. until 5 p.m. June 14-15 along U.S. 301. Communities along the road join together along more than 100 miles of highway. For more information, visit 301endlessyardsale.com. JUNE 15 STRYPER IN CONCERT ROANOKE RAPIDS – Multi-platinum crossover Christian metal band Stryper will be in concert Saturday, June 15 at the Roanoke Rapids Theater. Lobby doors open at 5 p.m. and Theater doors at 6 p.m. For more information, call 844-7785483 or visit www.rrtlive.com. The Theater is located at 500 Carolina Crossroads Parkway in Roanoke Rapids. JUNE 16 SUNDAYS IN THE PARK WASHINGTON – The Sundays in the Park Concert Series will feature Emerald City Big Band at 2 p.m. Sunday, June 16 at Festival Park in Downtown Washington. The event is free, but donations are appreciated.
JUNE 21 CANOE LAKE PHELPS CRESWELL – A park ranger will lead a canoe adventure on Lake Phelps beginning at 9 a.m. Friday, June 21. Canoes, personal flotation devices and paddles are provided. Participants must wear shoes appropriate for wading. Dress
60
and prepare for getting wet. Pre-registration is required. Pettigrew State Park is located at 2252 Lake Shore Rd. in Creswell. Call Pettigrew State Park at 252-797-4475. JUNE 21-25 ANYTHING GOES CLAY WORKSHOP The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a five-day workshop June 21-25 in which students will explore combining basic techniques into anything but basic pottery. The workshop will be led by A. Blair Clemo, who will demonstrate his unique approach combining wheel throwing, hand building and press molding to make utilitarian pottery. Students of all skill levels are welcome. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts.org or call 252-7962787. PAPER MACHE COMES ALIVE The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a workshop on Paper Mache June 21-26. Margaret Couch Cogswell will teach the class “Paper Mache Comes Alive” in which students will learn basic techniques on the way to creating animals, rascals and objects. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts.org or call 252-796-2787. JUNE 23-JULY 3 WEARABLE ELECTRONICS & SOFT CIRCUITS The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a interactive workshop in metals, jewelry and fabrication June 23-July 3. Students will create interactive wearable objects as they learn the basic of electronics, programmable microcontrollers, assembly circuits and sewing soft circuits. It will be led by Arthur Hash and Elliot Clapp. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts.org or call 252-796-2787. JUNE 27 ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP MEETING & DINNER WILLIAMSTON - The Martin County Arts Council will hold its annual membership meeting and dinner at 5:30 p.m. on Thursday, June 27. Tickets are $25, which includes the meal with dessert and entertainment form the Hank & Pattie Duo, may be purchased from the Arts Center or Mast Pharmacy in Williamston. The Arts Center is located at 124 Washington St. in Williamston.
JUNE 28 LEE GREENWOOD IN CONCERT ROANOKE RAPIDS – Iconic Country Music legend Lee Greenwood will be in concert Friday, June 28 at the Roanoke Rapids Theater. Lobby doors open at 5 p.m. and Theater doors at 6 p.m. For more information, call 844-778-5483 or visit www.rrtlive.com. The Theater is located at 500 Carolina Crossroads Parkway in Roanoke Rapids. JUNE 29 COUPLES DANCE WASHINGTON – A Couples Dance sponsored by USA Dance Chapter 6046 will be held from 7-9 p.m. Saturday, June 29 at the historic Turnage Theatre. The cost is $5. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504. JULY 3 FREEDOM FIREWORKS WINDSOR - The annual Windsor Freedom Fireworks are planned for Wednesday, July 3 at the Roanoke/Cashie River Center. The event begins at 6 p.m. with fireworks scheduled to begin at dark. For more information, contact the Windsor/ Bertie Chamber of Commerce at 252-794-4277. JULY 10 ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP MEETING WASHINGTON – The Arts of the Pamlico Annual Membership Meeting is planned for 5:30 p.m. Wednesday, July 10 at the Historic Turnage Theatre. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504.
content. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts.org or call 252-796-2787. FAB LAB COLUMBIA - The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a Fab Lab workshop on wearable electronics and soft circuits July 12-16. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts. org or call 252-796-2787. MOVING METAL: THE ART OF RAISING METAL COLUMBIA - The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a workshop on transforming a flat two-dimensional sheet of copper into a closed three-dimensional form in this ancient and dynamic process of raising metal July 12-16. The class will be taught by Greg Wilbur. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@ pocosinarts.org or call 252-796-2787. JULY 13 BROADWAY KIDS WASHINGTON – Broadway Kids will present Beauty and the Beast Jr. at 2:30 and 7 p.m. Saturday, July 13 at the Historic Turnage Theatre. The cost is $5 per person. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504.
JULY 11 ANNUAL PHOTOGRAPHY SHOW WILLIAMSTON - The Martin County Arts Council will host its annual Photography Show Opening Reception and Awards presentation at 6:30 p.m. on Thursday, July 11. Submissions will be received from 2-4 p.m. on Saturday, July 7. The show will remain open to the public through Aug. 30. The Arts Center is located at 124 Washington St. in Williamston.
JULY 14 BYE BYE BIRDIE WASHINGTON – Broadway on the Big Screen will present Bye Bye Birdie at 2 p.m. Sunday, July 14 at the Historic Turnage Theatre. The event is free, with a suggested donation of $5. The Theatre is located at 150 West Main St. in Washington. For more information, contact Arts of the Pamlico at 252946-2504.
JULY 12-16 CLAY WORKSHOP – FIGURATIVE MYTH(OLOGY) COLUMBIA - The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a clay workshop July 12-16. Led by John Donovan, the Figurative Myth(ology) workshop will explore hand-building techniques in clay with the intent of creating abstracted or fragmented figurative formed imbued with personal narrative
JULY 15-19 KIDS SUMMER ART CAMP WILLIAMSTON - The Martin County Arts Council will host the annual Kids Summer Art Camp from 10 a.m. until noon July 15-19. The camp is open to children age 5 to 15, and has a cost of $65 for members and $75 for nonmembers. The Arts Center is located at 124 Washington St. in Williamston.
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JULY 19 NANTUCKET IN CONCERT ROANOKE RAPIDS – Nantucket, a group formed in Jacksonville in 1969, will be in concert Friday, July 19 at the Roanoke Rapids Theater. Lobby doors open at 5 p.m. and Theater doors at 6 p.m. For more information, call 844-778-5483 or visit www.rrtlive.com. The Theater is located at 500 Carolina Crossroads Parkway in Roanoke Rapids. JULY 26-30 SKETCHING YOUR WAY INTO CLAY COLUMBIA - The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a clay workshop by Eleanor Anderson titled Sketching Your Way Into Clay July 2630. The workshop will teach students to take potter to the next level focusing on surface design. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts.org or call 252-796-2787. WOOD JEWELRY COLUMBIA - The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a Wood Jewelry workshop led by Dan Dicaprio July 26-30. In the workshop, students will explore small scale woodcarving techniques with an emphasis on jewelry applications. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts.org or call 252796-2787. DULCIMER GUITAR WEEKEND COLUMBIA - The Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft will host a Dulcimer Guitar Weekend led by Beth Ireland July 26-30. Students will learn the safe use of tools including the bandsaw, router and drill press in a safe and supportive environment. They will learn to shape wood with a variety of tools, lay out scale lengths, fret, string and strum a dulcimer guitar. The school is located at 201 Main St. in Columbia. For more information, contact info@pocosinarts. org or call 252-796-2787.
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63
12 Views From Our
Eastern North Carolina
BBQ n w do
w o r Th
Downtown Rocky Mount 64
Join us at the next one on
October 11-12, 2019 65
ANTIQUES • CRAFTS • GIFTS and
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66
Local & Regional Artists
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1.5 Miles off I-95’s Exit 173 200 Mill Street, Weldon, NC 27890 www.RiversideMill.net | (252) 536-3100 Open 7 Days a Week 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Martin Community y Coll College lege g Cosmetology Department nt A beautiful career or grooming cho choice! oic ce!
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Enroll now to start a beautiful career! Financial aid may be available! www.martincc.edu or 252-789-1521 Martin Community College is committed to an environment that embraces diversity, respects the rights of all individuals, is open and accessible, and is free of harassment and discrimination.
Class of 2018 MCC Cosmetology graduate Lateah Rodgers working on a client in the classroom.
800-776-8566 | www.visitmartincounty.com 67
ALL IN A Story by David Friedman Photos courtesy of Airlie Gardens & New Hanover County
I would not have thought it possible to be both a 67-acre garden and a hidden gem. Yet, nestled between one of the coast’s most popular beaches and a downtown scene that is a thriving tourist destination, Wilmington’s Airlie Gardens has managed to become just that. I have had the pleasure of visiting the gardens several times, on varying occasions, and I still haven’t come close to seeing it all. That is in fact one of the treats associated with Airlie Gardens. You could try to take the time to see the entire place in one day, come back six months later, and much of what you saw will look completely different. Other foilage will be in bloom and they will bring with them new colors, new smells and even new sounds associated with the wildlife they attract. The address in your phone’s GPS will be the same, but your eyes, ears and nose will tell you that this garden is not like the garden you experienced a mere six months before. I have attended several weddings at Airlie Gardens and would be hard pressed to find a more beautiful backdrop for a couple’s nuptials than the live oak trees on the Airlie Oak Lawn or the Pergola Garden that doubles as a natural isle for the bride’s walk. On the beautiful campus is the Minnie Evans Bottle Chapel which can only accurately be described as a piece of art. I guess it could be considered pieces of art as it is part of a larger collection in the sculpture garden built in honor of local artist Minnie Evans. Either way, take me at my word when I tell you that seeing it backlit after sunset is nothing short of stunning. Better yet, don’t take me at my word. Go see it for yourself.
68
Day’s Trip
airlie gardens
The good news is you don’t have to commit to spending the rest of your life with somebody just to enjoy Airlie Gardens. The gorgeous grounds are for far more than just weddings. In fact, they get a staggering 120,000plus visitors each year. These include students of all ages there to learn about a history that dates back to 1735 and King George II. Many are tourists interested in seeing the multitude of flowers, plants and trees. The azaleas in the area have become famous but the above mentioned live oaks combined with dogwoods and redbuds keep those with thumbs greener than mine entranced. Birdwatchers come from all around the country to enjoy the result of such a large natural sanctuary. The site even hosts a monthly bird hike which allows bird enthusiasts of all levels to join a local expert on a hike to view some of he more than 200 bird species that have been identified in the region. Some visitors come to see the butterflies. The spectacle is only available five months of the year, but if you come to Airlie Gardens between mid-May and October, you can check out Airlie’s Tranquility Garden. It is home to hundreds
69
of butterflies housed in a 2,700 square foot natural habitat. Seeing them released, which they do weekly in season, is still on my to-do list. Others, like myself, initially come for an event. With the above mentioned venues, weddings are obviously a common sight during the fairer weather months. There are several other events throughout the year worth checking out if you have the time and funds available. Live music can be enjoyed at Airlie Gardens via the Summer Concert Series. Between May and September each year, you can lay out a blanket on the lawn during the first and third Friday and enjoy a live show. My favorite event of the year is the Annual Airlie Oyster Roast. Always held the third Friday in October, the oyster roast presents a delicious mix of oysters, refreshments, a lively crowd and good music. This year’s entertainment is The Band Of Oz, which means I will once again be in search of tickets when they go on sale in August.
70
While the oyster roast is my favorite Airlie Gardens event of the year, my son’s best-loved event is undoubtedly the holiday lights that go up during Enchanted Airlie. Beginning the Friday after Thanksgiving and running until Christmas, you can stroll through a half mile of gardens and lights while enjoying the sights and sounds of the holiday season. These are just a few of the things you can enjoy at Airlie Gardens but, like the gardens themselves, the number of events is too vast to fully appreciate or articulate. There is yoga and art exhibits and my son even met Santa there for the first time. It may require a day trip, but whatever your interest, there is a good chance that Airlie Gardens has something for you. Either way, I would encourage you to come experience for yourself nature in some of its most glorious glory. David Friedman is author of the syndicated column Fourth & Long and a regular contributor to the Bertie LedgerAdvance, Martin County Enterprise & Weekly Herald and the Chowan Herald.
Airlie Gardens is located at 300 Airlie Rd, Wilmington, NC, and is open daily 9 AM - 4 PM. Call 910-798-7700 for more information. Admission $3-$9, under 4 are free.
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Plymouth “A Place To Call Home”
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306 Latham Avenue • PO Box 536 Plymouth, NC
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Sharon & Billy Maitland 72
www.maitlandfuneralhome.com
Visit Historic
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Photo Courtesy of Washington County TTA
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73
TIGHT LINES
o T w Ho
G
A h c t Ca
h c er P
t a e r
W
e t i h
Wade Betts
74
Morone Americana - the White Perch - is the most popular fish in the region. Some might argue the most popular point, but I’ll stick to my guns. To catch
than a dining room table where a storm
and a large spinner and light jighead is
over turned a large tree and left a slight
better for shallow water. The rubber tails
depression and some roots in the
come in all shapes and sizes, but some
bottom of the creek.
anglers just use a small piece of shrimp.
one, you just need a hook and some
Probably the best and most fun way
In deeper water bottom rigs baited with
shrimp. Okay, a rod or pole of some kind
to catch perch is using ultra-light rods
fresh shrimp will sometimes catch perch
and some line are also necessary.
and lures called beetle spins. I’m a fan of
The point is they are, for the most part, easy to catch. I like to catch fish, but I don’t like to eat them. People who do like to eat fish tell me white perch are good eating. Good eating and easy to catch, see why they’re so popular. They are not large fish and their flesh isn’t dense. A catfish about the same size, for example, would weigh more. The world record white perch was caught on Oct. 16, 2016 in Massachusetts and weighed 3 lbs., 8 ounces. The North Carolina state record was caught on Dec 16, 2001 from Falls of the Neuse Reservoir, and it weighed 2 lbs., 15 ounces. To qualify for the N.C. Angler Recognition Program a White perch must weigh 1 lbs. or be at least 12” long. White Perch can be found in all the coastal rivers in our area, as well as most creeks and the Albemarle Sound. The
“ ”
4 lbs. test line but many fisher people I know use 6 and some 8.
Probably the
two at the time. I’ve been catching white perch ever since I can remember. In the early 80’s I got my first boat and really started to “hurt some perch.” Back then they would bite beetle spins without added shrimp. Most people now-a-days tip their
best and most
lures with shrimp. I’ve caught some
fun way to catch
best bet is to go ahead and add the
perch is using
rigs and cane poles using worms for
ultra-light rods and lures called beetle spins.
without the added sweetener, but the
shrimp. Folks catch perch on bottom
bait, this is mostly done in the early Spring and upriver. I hear reports every year about the upper Chowan River and the big White Perch being caught. This guy never gets to experience early Spring fishing because turkey hunting season doesn’t end until mid-May. Priorities. From this year’s reports the perchin’
fish are very gregarious; where you catch
“Beetle spin” is a generic term that
should be good. Anglers are already
one there are usually many more, and
is also a brand name - kind of like “Skill
talking fish fry. I must admit a platter of
will hold mostly around some kind of
Saw.” It refers to a small spinner bait
white perch fillets does look appetizing.
structure. Drop-offs and stump fields
made by Johnson Fishing Tackle and the
If I caught the fish and the memory
are both good bets.
various copies.
Seasoned anglers know of “holes”
Some fisher people, like me, buy
or “wrecks,” and these spots are closely
the components and then mix and
kept secrets. I’ve caught 20 or more in
match to assemble the lures. A heavy
as many casts in spot not much bigger
head and a small spinner runs deeper
of the trip is fresh on my mind I will eat fish, but other than that they are much more fun to catch than to eat. Wade Betts is a regular contributor to the Perquimans Weekly.
75
76
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6
Qwithuestions
Andy Griffin O wner , G riffin ’ s B arbecue
78
What time does your day start? “2:30 (That’s AM). It takes about and hour to make sure we’ve got things ready. We have to check every cooler, every thermometer and document all of it. It takes time to do it correctly.”
How
has
technology
changed your business? “Our security system is as much a part of our food safety program as our security program. I get an alert on my phone if anything happens up here and that protects the product.”
Do you raise your own hogs?
What is one of the biggest
“No, we once did, but we never killed
changes you’ve seen over
them here. We used to raise them and take them to Williamston Packing Company. They would prepare them, and we would bring them back here. Well, they closed. Then we went to Snow
the years? “Probably
the
inspections.
We
document the temperature (of the meat) from the time we leave the Smithfield
Hill and then that place closed. Now we
plant all the way though our process.
go to Smithfield. We send someone
There are all kinds of documentations
every week to pick up the meat.”
now.”
How much barbecue does Griffin’s produce a week? “We
make
a
couple
thousand
pounds a week. The dominant part of our production now is sausage. We
What is the frustrating part of this business? “It can be very confining. Everything has to be documented and followed 52
produce about 10,000 pounds a week
weeks a year, seven days a week. I have
of sausage. The balance sort of changed
never had an entire week’s vacation.”
over the years.”
79
Grandma’s
Kitchen
Before someone considers making me Eastern North Carolina’s Most Wanted for this article, I want to say that I love eastern North Carolina Barbeque, and especially Bunn’s Barbeque in Windsor. But I also love Lexington Barbeque. I was born in Thomasville, and when I go home relatives always take me to Lexington Barbecue and to Winston Salem for Krispy Kreme doughnuts. These are the home of each respectively. Both are only a short drive from Thomasville. Lexington Barbecue, formerly Honey Monk’s, is known and rated in the top five of all barbeque places in America. This sauce is different from the sauce in Eastern North Carolina. It is tart, sweet and hot. Some who are used to Eastern North Carolina sauce love the difference in taste while others hate it because it is different than what they are used to eating. Sandwiches are put together with pulled
80
Sylvia Hughes with her grandmother, Bertie Dameron.
pork, sauce and red slaw. Red slaw is made by adding enough of the barbecue sauce to hold the finely chopped cabbage together. Krispy Kreme needs no explanation to North Carolinians, but did you know the first Krispy Kreme was made in Winston Salem? Another place for good food is a restored Moravian community called Old Salem. There are many interesting shops to visit including a book shop, a coffee house, farmers’ market and a bakery. The Moravian Cookies are unusual and delicious. They are thin, crispy and have several kind of spices. I am going to try to give you recipes closely resembling the barbecue at Lexington and the Moravia Cookies at Old Salem. I hope you will try them with a sense of exploring something new and different.
Lexington Barbecue Sauce • • •
1 cup of vinegar ½ cup of catchup
1 teaspoon hot sauce 3 tablespoons light brown sugar • 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes • Put all ingredien ts in a small pan an d heat until brown sugar melts and small bubbles start to appear. Can be used immediately or sto red in refrigerator. • Don’t forget to make slaw with just en ough sauce to hold cabbage tog ether. •
Moravian Cookies •
packed 1 ¼ cups light brown sugar,
•
1 ½ sticks butter
•
2 cups molasses
• • • • • •
Put brown sugar, butter and brown sugar is melted.
•
t until molasses in a saucepan. Hea
lasses ling water and add to mo Dissolve baking soda in boi up. mixture. Careful, it will bubble Stir into flour and spices together. • Remove from heat. Mix Form den spoon until well mixed. molasses mixture with a woo set in refrigerator overnight. into a rectangle, wrap and let kie sheets. rees F, and lightly grease coo • Preheat oven to 325 deg s at a time, ace, roll dough, small portion • On a lightly floured surf is the goal. as thinly as possible. Paper thin on cookie cutter and place 1 inch apart • Cut with a 2 ½ in cookie
•
1 tablespoon baking soda ¼ cup boiling water r
6 2/3 cups all-purpose flou 1 tablespoon ground cloves
2 tablespoons ground ginger 1 tablespoon nutmeg
sheets. • •
es, lightly browned around the edg Bake 7 to 10 minutes or until sheets dle, remove from cookie Let cool until easy to han ight pletely cooled. Store in airt and place on racks until com containers.
Sylvia Hughes is a retired newspaper editor and columnist residing in Windsor. In addition to three sons, she has a gaggle of grandchildren, many of whom love cooking with her just as she did with her mother and grandmother.
81
N.C. 32 and Savage Road southwest of Folly
MARKER TEXT George Washington Owned a tract of land nearby. He surveyed and formed a company to drain a part of the Dismal Swamp, 1763.
MARK IT! Title To Begin Here
Rabore et dolore magna aliquyam erat, sed diam Information courtesy of the voluptua. At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et N.C. Department of Natural and Cultural Resources ea rebum. Stet clita kasd gubergren, no
I
n 1763 George Washington and eleven other Virginia businessmen including tobacco king William Byrd, developed a
scheme to drain the Dismal Swamp. he twelve men formed the Dismal Swamp Land Company in of acquiring and draining massive tracts of fertile land. Nearly all of the original members of the company were heavily in debt at the time. After George Washington surveyed the area, and suggested the building of a north-south canal, the partners purchased nearly 40,000 acres of the land. Using several hundred of their own slaves, as well as those who were rented to them by other planters, the first attempt to drain the land ended in utter failure in the face of sweltering heat, disease, and dense vegetation. The company then shifted its focus to the production of hemp in the small tracts of land that were actually cleared, but that too ended in failure. Finally, the ever-dwindling number of investors turned to simply felling timber for wood shingles and barrel staves, shipping them by 1805 through the canal. In 1810 the Dismal Swamp Land Company finally paid its first dividends, but only one of the original twelve members was alive to receive them. Washington’s own role in the enterprise had been quite small, although he had surveyed
REFERENCES Alexander Crosby Brown, The Dismal Swamp Canal (1946) Charles Royster, The Fabulous History of the Dismal Swamp Company: A Story of George Washington’s Times (1999) William S. Powell, ed., Encyclopedia of North Carolina (2006) Bland Simpson, The Great Dismal: A Carolinian’s Swamp Memoir (1990) Records of the Dismal Swamp Land Company, 1792-1834, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Reserve Library Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Center: http://www.dismalswamp.com/ The Way We Lived in North Carolina website map: http://www.waywelivednc.com/maps/historical/dismal-swamp-canal.htm
82
and originated the idea for the canal. Fed up with the lack of progress, Washington contracted to sell his 1/12 share to Light Horse Harry Lee, the father of Robert E. Lee, in 1796, but Lee was unable to accumulate the necessary funds. Upon Washington’s death, his shares passed to his heirs.
RN E T S EA
G N I V I L T H N O R
N A O L I C A R
m: Museu y anch or Fort Br eces of hist pi Unique
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EASTERN
LIVING N O R T H
Historic Gallery Theatre takes visit ors on ‘world tour’
C A R O L I N A
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1
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The Book
Two classic tales set in the Middle Ages comes alive with characters that will steal your heart. The timeless plots become believable and all too real. This is the print version of two related Kindle novellas, Roslyn’s Rescue and Glenda’s Gold. Roslyn doesn't know what she would have done without the woodcutter’s help, however the villagers think him dimwitted. Rogue knights try to harass Roslyn, her mother forbids her to see Asher again, and her trips through the Dark Woods to see Grandmother get more dangerous. When the earl’s heir comes to the silver shop to buy a gift, he and Glenda are drawn to each other, but his family will never approve of her. Besides being a common shopkeeper’s daughter, her father is a braggart, and his boasting always causes trouble. With an impossible task of spinning and one dilemma following another, what will become of them?
Get the book
Available on Amazon and other sites and bookstores can order them for you. Or send $9.37 + $.63 tax + $2.99 shipping to Janice Hopkins, 127 Jet Drive, Oakboro, NC 27967 (Direct orders can be signed when requested, and more goes into the scholarship fund.)
The Author
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85
biography • By Deborah Griffin
We serve food here, but we also serve
love. - J ohnnell M ills
At Grandpa’s Kitchen, love flows as abundantly as the sweet tea. “When you are at Granpa’s Kitchen, you are with family,” said owner Jeff Mills. Here, the Bible and barbeque go together like biscuits and butter. Jeff and his wife Johnell brought Grandpa’s Kitchen to Littleton in 1997, basing their endeavor on a Bible verse: “Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as if working
86
for the Lord, not for man, since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Jesus Christ you are serving.” (Colossians 3:23-24.) The Mills’ want customers to feel like they are coming home when they enter the restaurant. Stepping through the door, patrons are struck with the savory smell of barbeque, along with a warm, love-filled welcome.
Red-and-white-checkered tablecloths, reminiscent of an old fashioned family picnic, compel people to sit and stay a while. Customers know when they see the solid wood-carved, winged pig “Grandpa” is in the kitchen. Jeff is actually not a Grandpa – yet. He and Johnell have four children. All three of his girls - Jade, Jiona and Jalen are currently in school at the University of
Jeff & Johnnell
Mills
Bringing Bible and Barbecue to Littleton North Carolina – Chapel Hill. Jeffery Junior, 10, is in the 5th grade. He chose the name Grandpa’s Kitchen because it evokes the idea of the kind of barbeque patrons might have experienced when they were younger. “What kind of barbeque does your grandpa cook?” he asks, referencing his way of cooking pigs on a grill. “A long time ago everyone desired vinegarbased North Carolina style barbeque. So that is one of the reasons we’re called Grandpa’s Kitchen, because we do the whole hog, vinegar-based barbeque. Some places have gone to using just Boston butts, but we cook the whole hog,” he added. One advantage of cooking the whole pig, as dedicated barbeque connoisseurs might
realize, is an item for which people line up and out the door. Grandpa’s Kitchen calls them “skins,” (fried pigskins). Littleton is a peaceful community of around 650 people in Halifax County less than 10 miles from Lake Gaston. The lake straddles the North Carolina and Virginia border and is roughly 35 miles long, covering approximately 20,000 acres. Vacation homeowners, fishermen and tourists stop at Grandpa’s Kitchen on their way to the lake and on their way home. The locals also frequent Grandpa’s Kitchen, some two or three times a week. Jeff greets everyone as if they are family. Grandpa’s Kitchen’s menu reads like a spread prepared for a Sunday dinner-on-thegrounds at a countryside Southern Baptist
Church. Jeff has both turkey and whole-hog barbeque, barbequed chicken, ribs and something he calls pig-wings, which look suspiciously like turkey wings. The side dishes they offer would make any grandma proud. The hushpuppies customers rave about are made daily from scratch. “We are talking buttermilk and eggs, the whole ‘sha-boom,’” Johnell said. They also make their own coleslaw, string beans, potato salad, boiled potatoes, blackeyed peas, and Grandpa’s famous turkey stew. Their array of desserts will make the most staunch of dieter’s mouth start to water. The homemade sugary confections include strawberry cake, pineapple cake, sweet potato
87
pie, coconut pie chocolate-iced cake, and their most requested, banana pudding. Grandpa’s Kitchen offers take-out and also caters to businesses and private parties. Jeff confesses the restaurant is really a family affair. Relatives of Jeff and Johnell are employed, including both of their mothers. Brothers, aunts, uncles and cousins have been employed in various capacities. Even the couple’s children help when they can. “They basically grew up in the restaurant,” admits Johnell. The writing is on the wall, literally. The office is marked with multiple lines drawn on the wood paneling, along with names and dates, documenting each child’s growth spurts. The Mills will have been married 30 years this July. Twenty-three of those years have been as owners of Grandpa’s Kitchen. “I’ve basically worn a hairnet for 20 years,” Johnell laughed. Jeff attributes the longevity to Johnell’s “agape” love for him. Agape is considered a type of unconditional love that transcends and persists regardless of circumstance. “I am thankful for her support, as my wife and my business partner,” he said. The couple were high school sweethearts and graduated together in 1984 from Northwest High School. They moved to Newport News after college, but realized they wanted their children to grow up near family. Jeff considers the restaurant a ministry. “When I was in the fifth grade, I felt like God was calling me to go into ministry,” he said. But, he realizes now, his ministry is not necessarily behind a pulpit. Serving his customers and sharing the love of Christ are his passion. “This is more than just food,” said Jeff. “This
88
is just a tool that allows us to show our faith and acknowledge Jesus is Lord of our life.” Johnell agrees. “We serve food here, but we also serve love.” “We’re a place where the food is fresh, hot, seasoned with love and cooked to perfection,” added Jeff. Grandpa’s Kitchen, located at 149 E. South Main Street in Littleton, is open each week from 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. Thursday – Sunday. Deborah Griffin is a Staff Writer for Eastern Living and the Martin County Enterprise & Weekly Herald.
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PARTING SHOTS
Thadd White is on the banks of the Scuppernong River in Columbia
All magazines are not created equal.
Bar-Be-Que in Scotland Neck. While open
of love to help those in their county. Deborah
This is now the fourth Eastern North
only a few days a week, it has become a
Griffin’s story shows their love for their
treasure for local barbecue aficionados.
community, and for cooking barbecue the
Carolina Living magazine since our staff took over the primary responsibility of producing it.
Readers will also learn about Martelle’s in
To say it has been challenging is an
Englehard, where Martelle Marshall still cooks
understatement. We struggled to find stories in a few counties and worked around set schedules for some of the other stories.
his own barbecue.
important barbecue-related events in our 12 county-area as we have stories about Pork
Simps BBQ, and traces it to two Washington
Fest in Murfreesboro (written by Sarah Davis)
While we are proud of our work, it is the time and effort of firemen, business owners and volunteers we are most happy about. People went out of their way to tell the stories found in these pages. all proud to have produced. While we are
Finally, readers will learn about two
Dow Jones Jr. takes a look at the historic County men who
The result, however, is a magazine we are
right way.
still cook the same way.
In addition, Janice Cole Hopkins gives a comparison of barbecues across North
You’ll also meet the
and Smoke on the Water in Washington.
folks
Carolina.
behind
This edition’s Biography feature shows the
George’s Sauces in
love Jeff and Johnell Mills have for barbecue
Nash County. Amelia
and God.
Harper
the
Sylvia Hughes also offers a recipe for
story of the creation
gives
Lexington barbecue for those who are
of the sauces and
interested in trying the delicacy in this edition
traces it to the current owners, who still make it the same way.
of Grandma’s Kitchen. We’ll be back in May with stories centered
proud of our work, it is the time and effort
My trip to Northampton County was
on sports. You’ll learn a lot about the history
of firemen, business owners and volunteers
educational as I learned – and share with you
of our counties and the people who coached,
we are most happy about. People went out
in these pages – the historical significance of
played and loved sports of all kinds.
of their way to tell the stories found in these
the barbecue dinners at the Lasker Volunteer
pages.
Fire Department.
Until next time, remember… all who wander are not lost. Continue joining us as we
We have stories about several of our
Sarah Hodges Stalls allows readers an
famous barbecue restaurants in Eastern North
inside look at Griffin’s Barbecue, where a small
Gates,
Carolina, including Bunn’s in Windsor (written
group in Martin County produces thousands
Nash, Northampton, Tyrrell and Washington
by Leslie Beachboard), Abrams in Tarboro
of pounds of barbecue each week for local
counties.
(written by Amelia Harper) and Tarheel in
stores.
Gates County (written by Sarah Hodges Stalls).
Readers also will meet a pair of Tyrrell
Jim Green also introduces readers to A&M
County men who cook barbecue as a labor
90
wander through Beaufort, Bertie, Edgecombe, Halifax,
Hertford,
Hyde,
Martin,
Thadd White is Editor of Eastern Living Magazine, the Bertie Ledger-Advance and the Martin County Enterprise & Weekly Herald.
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