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ESCAPE
MARCH, 2020//
Warming to hip Hobart’s culture club
SENIORS
ECLECTIC MIX: The panoramic view of thriving Hobart from Mount Nelson. Pictures: Erle Levey
Art, music add to southern belle’s core appeal Erle Levey THERE’S more to Tasmania than apples, wine and seafood. The island state to the south of the Australian mainland is full of cultural surprises, whether it be art, music or architecture. And as well as the worldfamous Sydney-Hobart Yacht Race, there is another link to an even greater journey … a link to man’s landing on the moon. It’s something I quickly discovered after an earlymorning mystery flight from Brisbane in late November. Just pack a jumper, walking shoes and an iPhone, I was told. No need for a passport. That narrowed the destination down to Victoria, South Australia or Tasmania. Arriving at Gate 38, departures were either Melbourne or Hobart. Hobart it was. In a little more than two hours we were off the east coast of this southernmost part of Australia and starting the approach to Hobart International Airport. Even though it’s virtually the start of summer there is a chill in the air on leaving the terminal. And I’m glad there is a woollen beanie to pull on. After all, next landfall is Antarctica. Everything feels fresh. Friendly. After the novel greeting of life-size replicas of the native wildlife at the luggage collection area in the airport terminal, the drive into Hobart is mostly through bushland or rolling farming country. The approach to the Derwent River Bridge opens up the beautiful view of the city on both sides of the glacial-formed river and deep harbour. The backdrop is the majestic Mount Wellington, known as kunanyi by the first people, the Muwinina. Hobart is easy
to love. And to get around in. It’s such a walkable city for the most part. You only need a car for day trips to such locations as the wineries of the Coal Valley, historic Port Arthur Convict Settlement, the wooden boats centre in the Huon Valley or to the summit of Mount Wellington. There is the magnificent Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) to explore, the coastline of Bruny Island and so many walks. You don’t expect it to snow on the first night in summer. You don’t expect to stumble upon an art exhibition opening on your way to dinner. You don’t expect to experience the strings section of a symphony
orchestra playing to a packed house at a brewery. There’s a lot to Hobart you don’t expect … and that’s part of its charm. Hobart is easy to love … even when the weather turns cold and grey. To see the Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra at Hobart Brewing’s Red Shed at Mac Point was something to warm the soul. It was simply an 800m walk from the Old Woolstore Apartment Hotel, near Victoria Dock.
Despite the soft rain and chill wind the atmosphere was warm at the brewery. Flannelette shirts and Blundstone boots were the order of the night as the sold-out crowd readily warmed to the unusual blending of an exceptional orchestra in such an industrial setting. Pot-belly stoves inside, open fires in the courtyard and the talk from the bar area added to the sense of occasion. The TSO is based right in the heart of Hobart. It is widely travelled throughout Australia and the most played on ABC Classic FM. Tonight the strings section will be playing everything from Elgar to Lady Gaga. On Saturday night is another sold-out event with the orchestra’s brass section performing at St David’s Anglican Cathedral, about another 800m up the hill in Murray Street. The TSO reaches a broad cross-section of listeners with free outdoor concerts in Hobart and Launceston, and performs in regional Tasmania, schools and community centres as well as these events that started three years ago to reach out to new audiences. As marketing director Sam Cairnduff says, they are looking at different ways to take music out there. “We are going through our most successful period in 71 years. While subscriptions around the country are challenging, ours are going up year on year. “We are pretty much getting right around the state, and around Australia. “A specialty is Australian composers. We have recorded more than any other orchestra. “We have championed a lot of composers. Our
The Cascades Female Factory, a former Australian workhouse for female convicts.
Australian conductors’ workshop is a pipeline for aspiring conductors to build skills.’’ Tasmania’s food and wine are celebrated for their quality, especially its seafood. And there are so many good places to eat in the city. Walking back from the brewery, we stop at the Drunken Admiral, right on Victoria Dock. I had wondered about it, being in such a convenient position. Would it be a tourist place? Friends had all talked about it, including those who had lived in Hobart. Yet fears of it being impersonal were quickly dismissed as soon as we walked through the door. It was a step back in time … to the inside of an old sailing ship with bowsprits, figureheads, heavy timber tables, all sorts of nautical bits and pieces such as
Tasmania Symphony Orchestra Strings at the Red Shed, Hobart Brewing Company.
shackles, ropes and chains, old sails, and gimballed navigation lights. Everywhere you looked was like being in an antiques shop. It was busy … and despite it being a cold night the welcoming was warm. We were happy to sit up at the bar and grab a drink while ordering. The rum barrel behind the bar reminded you of what it must have been like in the time of sail. Bruny Island oysters are arguably the best you will taste, then there’s the scallops, the seafood chowder, crusty bread … and a Tasmanian red. To finish we walked around the waterfront to the floating Van Diemens Land Creamery. The city fronts the River Derwent, so it has not just a nautical past but it is still part of its seafaring culture.
Constitution Dock, famous for the finish of the SydneyHobart Yacht Race, is also home to sailing ships from Tasmania’s past. The sailing vessel May Queen, Australia’s oldest sail trading vessel, is one of only a handful of wooden vessels of her era still afloat in the world. Westward is a fishing vessel that was converted to a racing yacht and claimed handicap victories in the Sydney-Hobart Yacht Races of both 1947 and 1948. Recently, the SydneyHobart pioneer Mistral II has joined the fleet, in preparation for a major restoration to take several years. Being able to virtually walk everywhere in Hobart adds to the intimacy of the city. Such as enjoying the Salamanca Markets of a Saturday morning, on the western side of the
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