SEOUL (May 2014)

MAY 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

ISSUE NO. 130

SHINHAN'S PHONE BANKING

p.3

The NEW DDP

p.10-11

gOCHANG

p.14-15

sEON (ZEN) BUDDHISM

p.18-19

gardens and history bUDDHIST CUISINE

p.22

p.28-29

FAMILY GIFT SHOPPING wRITER

p.30-31

CHARLie uSHER 2014 BBB p.36 run together

p.7

DULWIch college seoul

p.21

YISS int'l bazaar

p.39

CONTENTS No. 130 MAY 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

ISSUE NO. 130

sHINHaN's PHONE BaNKINg

p.3

tHE NEW DDP

P.10-11

gOCHaNg

P.14-15

sEON (ZEN) BUDDHIsM

DUlWICH COllEgE sEOUl

p.7

p.21

YIss INt'l BaZaar

p.39

P.18-19

garDENs aND HIstOrY BUDDHIst CUIsINE

P.22

P.28-29

FaMIlY gIFt sHOPPINg WrItEr

P.30-31

CHarlIE UsHEr 2014 BBB P.36 rUN tOgEtHEr

May 2014 About the Cover Model Anna Shulepova in Dongdaemun Design Plaza Coordinated by Shin Yesol, Deanne Nguyen Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo Make-up and Hair by Carolina Lee Stylist Sarah Kate Watson-Baik

10

Exploring Seoul

12

26

Seoul travel bits

seoul talks

14

28

TRavel Gochang

Dongdaemun Design Plaza

16

Shopping Gift Ideas for Parents and Teacher

Korea travel bits

30

18

Dongdaemun's DDP is unlike anywhere you've been before.

seoul walks Scent of Spring in Seongbuk-dong

Interview Charlie Usher

32

20

Seoul sub—›urban Hongje Station 22

Dining & nightlife Korean Buddhist Cuisine

Goings-on around town Previews, Listings, & More 36

Expat Buzz 40

Maps & guides

Publisher Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Felix Im Copy Editor Jaime Stief Producer/Coordinator/Writer Kim Hansol Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Yu Hye-joo Designer Cynthia Fernández Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Min Jae-won Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Contributors Joe McPherson Merissa Quek Alecia Janiero John Steele

| Deanne Nguyen | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Loren Cotter | David Waters

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Exploring Seoul The spaceship-like Dongdaemun Design Plaza at night

A Flowing Landscape of Design 동대문 디자인 플라자

Say what you will, but Dongdaemun’s DDP is unlike anywhere you’ve been before Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

T

o call Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) “controversial” would be something of an understatement.

Seoul’s newest landmark and cultural space has drawn the attention of the architecture world for its cutting-edge design and fluid landscape. While some praise it as a work of art, others condemn it as an overpriced blight on the Seoul skyline.

Whatever you think of it, there’s certainly no place like it in the city. Not even close.

Originally conceived as a grand monument to design, the DDP is part culture and arts facility, part leisure space and part workshop. To mark its birth, the complex is hosting several fascinating exhibits and shows, most notably an exhibition of rarely seen national treasures from the collection of the Gansong Museum of Art. Even if you have no interest in the shows, the DDP is well worth the visit just to stroll amidst its winding, futuristic spaces.

The DDP’s Design Market is home to numerous shops, cafés and restaurants. If you’re in the mood for something Korean, N Table does a mean Korean-style shabu shabu, or sliced beef boiled in water. Battery Park, meanwhile, serves good Italian cuisine and burgers in a delightfully urban setting. Equally impressive is Guarneri Tap House, where you can wash down quality pub grub with one or more of the 42 craft beers on the menu.

The Design Lab is essentially one big workshop/art shop.

Here you’ll find design-related books as well as art, crafts, clothing and other work by Korean designers.

T. 02-2153-0000, www.ddp.or.kr Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station (Line 2, 4 or 5) Exit 1

11 USD 450 million legacy The DDP is, above all else, eye-catching. Designed by British “starchitect” Zaha Hadid, the complex was designed as a “metonymic landscape,” a flowing, sculptural terrain integrating the cultural, historical and social elements of the Dongdaemun district, a gritty neighborhood known for its sprawling fashion and textile market.

The resulting structure has left polarized opinions in its wake. In the JoongAng Ilbo, respected Korean architect Mihn Hyun-jun, the man behind the beautiful National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul, called the plaza “the best architecture designed by Hadid,” praising the “perfect completeness” of the work. On the other hand, another Korean architect, who prefers to remain nameless, likened it to a “natural catastrophe.” Some observers compare it to a spaceship that has crash-landed in the middle of the city. Even Mayor Park Won-soon called it “an ugly sight,” criticizing how it clashed with the surrounding neighborhood.

The negative opinions reflect more than just taste. At USD 450 million, the complex is one of the most expensive buildings ever erected in Seoul. And to make way for it, historic Dongdaemun Stadium—the venue for much of Korea’s sports history—was demolished and flea market merchants were relocated.

Art, learning and leisure Beneath the DDP’s curvy, silvery steel and concrete exterior is a bright, white world of twists and turns with nary a straight line, 90-degree angle or weight-supporting pillar anywhere. Truly mesmerizing, it’s something right out of a science fiction film. It’s a massive structure, too, with more floor space than the Louvre.

Broadly speaking, the DDP is divided into an Art Hall, Museum and Design Lab. There’s also a (mostly) outdoor public meeting place, the Oullim Square, and an attached park, Dongdaemun History & Culture Park. If you’re a fan of design, you could spend all day here, losing yourself in its many crooks and crannies. Architectural highlights include a fluid, almost Gaudi-esque staircase in the Museum and a so-called “Designed Dullegil,” a futuristic, 522 m walking path along an internal ramp way.

Many parts of the complex close around 9 or 10 PM, but the Oullim Square is open 24 hours a day. Some of the exhibit halls are closed on Mondays, too.

Gansong treasures and much, much more The DDP celebrated its opening on March 23 by hosting several headline events, including Seoul Fashion Week. While Seoul Fashion Week has long since ended, some of the other exhibits are still running. The one you won’t want to miss is Gansong Culture: Protecting the Country with Culture (through Sep. 28, see p34), an exhibit of 91 works of Korean art from the collection of the Gansong Museum of Art. Included in the show are 24 works of Korean ceramics, 63 paintings and a copy of the Hunmin Jeongeum, the 15th century text explaining Korea’s indigenous script, Hangeul. The Gansong Museum of Art is notorious for holding just two exhibits a year (May and October), so this is your best opportunity to see some of Korea’s best loved cultural treasures. Admission is KRW 8,000.

Another ongoing exhibit is Enzo Mari Design (through June 21), a collection of 360 design works, workshop results and video by legendary Italian modernist designer Enzo Mari (admission is KRW 4,000). Also worth seeing is Zaha Hadid 360° (through May 31), an exhibit of 53 pieces of furniture, fashion and mobile art by the designer of the DDP herself (admission is KRW 4,000).

The spectacular lines of Zaha Hadid's DDP

Dining & nightlife

Korean Buddhist Cuisine

Eating can be a path to enlightenment Written by Joe McPherson

A

long with the chaotic energy of the city comes the occasional craving to center the soul and mind. Buddhist temples dot the cityscape as idyllic oases of contemplation; then the tummy rumbles, disturbing the quiet. Korean Buddhist temple cuisine presents a realm where tradition meets trendy, where even an unapologetic carnivore can find enlightened satisfaction in a vegan meal.

Temple cuisine’s roots go way back, yet still manage to find themselves in sync with modern food trends. It’s vegan. It’s seasonal. It’s local. It’s organic. Nothing refined, like sugar, will make its way into a temple dish. On top of that, there are five forbidden vegetables that when eaten raw incite anger, and when eaten cooked encourage sexual mischief. These include garlic, leeks, chives, onions and scallions. With these challenges, to say temple cooks need to be creative is a bit of an understatement.

Fortunately, however, this creativity produces an array of exciting, exotic flavors. Shellfish and fish sauce can’t be used in making kimchi, so ripened persimmons come into play. Floral fruit extracts replace sugars. Wild sesame, mountain herbs and homemade vinegars take the place vacated by garlic and onions. An elegant cuisine blossoms from these challenges.

A typical temple dish is yeonip bap, or lotus leaf rice. Freshly harvested sticky rice is steamed in a lotus leaf with Korean dates, pine nuts, chestnuts, gingko nuts and beans to produce an aromatic steam bath of flavors.

Temples conduct baru ceremonies, which are, in essence, eating meditations. It’s an elaborate gustatory exercise involving four wooden inset bowls, one for rice, one for soup and two for vegetables. There is a procedure, but the goal of the meal is to slow down and think about your food: Think about where it came from, who harvested it, who cooked it.

Think about the people in your life. Think about the bite you are eating now, not the bite you will eat next. Doing so makes the meal a heightened peaceful experience that is the antithesis of the bustling galbi house.

Insa-dong area

Balwoo Gongyang

발우공양

Across the street from Jogyesa Temple near Insa-dong is the Temple Stay building. Balwoo Gongyang is the flagship restaurant on the fifth floor. The food comes out in multiple colorful courses from a menu that changes seasonally, but the highlights are the crispy fruit and vegetable chips and the lotus leaf rice. Lunches tend to be busier than dinners, so you will more likely get a free table in the evening.

T. 02-2031-2081 Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6. Walk past Insadong-gil then take a left, Walk five minutes, and you’ll see the Temple Stay Information Center on your left. Balwoo Gongyang is on the fifth floor of the same building.

71 Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu, 5th floor

Finding the Perfect Cocktail in Seoul Over the past few years, the number of cocktail bars around the city has exploded, but it can still be hard to find a truly great drink for the price.

Here are three places that never disappoint.

Written by Alecia Janeiro Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Pier8 피어8 When Pier8 opened in 2012, it was one of the first large, upscale restaurants at the Hannam end of Itaewon High Street. With an impeccably decorated interior, excellent service and an extensive Japanese fusion menu, it is one of the nicest eateries in Itaewon. Possibly the best part about Pier8, however, is its cocktail menu. Manager Hollis Kim has been designing drinks for 12 years, and his experience shines through in all of the restaurant’s offerings. Pier8’s Japanese sake-based cocktails were specifically created by Hollis, and are unlike any other drink in Seoul. Each one contains fruit-infused vodka soaked in-house, homemade syrup and handmade garnishes. Take, for example, the Apple Shisojito. Though most bar menus include a mojito, it’s difficult to find a place that makes a great one, much less a unique take on the classic. Pier8’s Apple Shiso-jito beats out the competition by a long shot. Containing fresh mint, basil, apple and Japanese shiso, Kim also adds lime juice, apple juice, ginger ale, apple-infused vodka, sake and homemade citron syrup before garnishing with fresh apple. The result is a deliciously refreshing take on the mojito that puts the others to shame. The attention to detail is what makes Pier8’s cocktail menu so alluring, and there are approximately 25 more equally fantastic sake cocktails on the menu. Try one with lunch or dinner, or stop in for after-dinner drinks. As an added bonus, Hollis also designed the menus for Berlin Café and Lounge and Buddha’s Belly, both of which are also located in Itaewon.

T. 02-749-2173 [ Map 5 E3] 216 Itaewon-ro, Yongsan-gu, 2nd floor

Vinyl 비닐 With the arrival of warm spring weather, now is the perfect time to explore the outdoor nightlife scene of Hongdae, and no trip to Hongdae Park would be complete without a stop at Vinyl. Vinyl is located just down the street from both the park and the main gate to the university, and it is one of the most unique bars in Seoul. If you’ve ever spotted someone sipping a drink out of a large, zip-lock, IV-style plastic bag in Hongdae, it’s because they’ve swung by Vinyl’s famous take-out window. There is a cozy seating area inside, but most customers prefer getting drinks to go so they can stroll around the neighborhood. Due to its proximity to the university, the drinks are all priced for students, so it is surprisingly cheap, considering the drink sizes. Plus, the cocktails all pack quite a punch. [ Map 3 D1] 411-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu

Photographed by Alecia Janeiro

Julio Hongdae 줄리오 홍대점 Julio has long been home to some of the best Mexican cuisine in Seoul, and after the success of the original restaurant, new locations opened, including one in Hongdae.

Julio was one of the first places in the city to serve a great frozen margarita, and their Bulldog Margarita seemed to spark a trend that has caught on at other Mexican places across the city. The Bulldog is a giant frozen lime margarita with a Corona beer inverted in the glass. It may sound unusual, but the flavors of the beer, tequila and lime complement each other so beautifully that the Bulldog is the perfect accompaniment to any of Julio’s dishes. The Hongdae location is particularly nice because of its outdoor seating area, which is a great location for enjoying dinner, drinks and people-watching on warm spring and summer evenings.

T. 02-3141-5324 [ Map 3 E1] 411-18 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu

Shopping

m

Here’s to You n

More-than-gift ideas for parents and teachers dear to us Written by Deanne Nguyen

Y

E

very holiday season, which comes up far more than once a year, we find ourselves the target of yet another commercial onslaught; in Korea, May brings in Children’s Day, Parent’s Day and Teacher’s Day all at once. For children, it’s Christmas part deux, but adults have to endure both the giving and receiving of transient gifts, namely, random pieces of candy, botched origami cards and the splashiest of all, carnations. These symbols of love and respect—who knew—can later be found heaped into trash cans like poorly disposed evidence of indifference.

While these flowery gestures come with the best, albeit naive, intentions, their price and convenience mean they’re often only suited for those in your life whose significance is fleeting. For parents and teachers, however, this is just lazy. Sure, we can go all out with gifting once a winter, but their namesake holidays are our chance to indulge them exclusively. We have them to thank for, well, everything.

Z

Fathers

Tanzo, Passport Holder

While often not picky, dads can be painfully pragmatic. Upgrade their usuals with elemental luxury, such as leather, metal or crystal. With customized leather products, you can select the color for free (and even the thread color if you call ahead), and engravings are an extra KRW 5,000.

For the wired dads, they can always use more space. Sangsangmadang in Hongdae carries a few in geo-future casings that’ll have him blade running in no time. For the night (or day) cap lovers, amuse their inner child as they submerge a crystal Swiss mountain in their favorite liquor.

KRW 72,000 tanzo.co.kr

Tale Design, Matterhorn Glass KRW 49,000 www.1300k.com

Logical Art, 8GB USB KRW 110,000 www.logical-art.co.uk

Mothers Annick Goutal, Petite Cherie Candle, KRW 110,000 www.be-nature.co.kr

Yankee Candle Lemon Lavender

The ladies of our lives need to be wooed. Flowers, candies, dinner, the works, sure, but household additions will be a darling reminder that you’re still with her postpartum. Absolutely no fake fruit, though; if we’re talking centerpiece, go with ones that come pre-vased. The bouquet should also be an odd number of blossoms (rule of flower arranging, just go with it) and include some green to balance things out. Height should also be a factor: Go tall for larger dining tables or floor fixtures, short for counters and breakfast tables and add a little home accent like a perfumed candle if you want to nail functional as well as charming. With their lower melting point, soy candles (placed in an elegant glass) are both mother-approved and mess-less. Oh, and don’t forget the spa-day certificate.

KRW 45,000 candle.rcsoft.co.kr

Flower MayB, Bouquet Centerpiece Price Upon Inquiry flowermayb.com

Interview

oNE SUBWAY STATION AT a Time Seoul Sub-Urban writer Charlie Usher explores Seoul’s ever-changing charms Written by Felix Im

Goings-on around town

PREVIEWs 2014 Bolshoi on Ice Paul McCartney: Hyundai Card Super Concert 20

Main Stadium, Jamsil Sports Complex May 28, 20:00 T. 02-2240-8809, ticket.interpark.com

Mokdong Ice Rink Apr. 23–May 18 오목교역 (Line 5), Exit 3

T. 02-2643-3057, www.mdicerink.co.kr KRW 60,000–100,000 Omokgyo Station

“Bolshoi on Ice” is immensely popular in Korea. It was the first foreignproduced show to attract over one million viewers. The show blends figure skating and ballet, often called a “figure skating show,” combining brilliant athleticism with stunning aesthetics. Figure skaters and ballet athletes from this year’s Winter Olympics host country will come to Seoul to once again to dazzle audiences with an extravagantly prepared show. The exhilarating speed of the performances makes them unique from other concerts or musicals, an event that everyone in the family can enjoy. This year’s performance will feature variations of “Swan Lake,” “Snow White” and an assortment of other popular pieces. Special performances have also been prepared exclusively for Korean fans.

KRW 55,000–300,000 Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

Hyundai Culture Project 14: John Mayer

In 2013, Paul McCartney embarked on his his “Out There” tour, which started in Brazil and journeyed through 23 cities across South America, Europe, North America and Japan. On McCartney’s official blog, a photograph was posted of a busker in London playing a piano, with a sign propped up in front of him that read, “Sir Paul McCartney!

Please have a concert in Republic of Korea!! There are millions of fans waiting for you.”

It seems the busker’s efforts were not in vain, as McCartney announced on April 2 that he was planning to get “back out there,” according to his official tour blog, by playing in Korea for the first time. His playlist for Seoul will feature songs that span McCartney’s entire career, stretching from his days as a Beatle to his solo days, and even his time as member of Wings, a band he formed in 1971 with his first wife, Linda McCartney. He will also feature songs from his most recent studio album “New,” released last year. Paul McCartney is one of the highest-selling musicians of all time. He has 60 gold discs and boasts album sales of over 100 million. His song “Yesterday” is one of the most famous titles in the world, with over 2,200 covers, the most of any copyrighted song in history.

Jamsil Indoor Stadium in Seoul May 6, 19:00 T. 02-2240-8809, ticket.interpark. com KRW 110,000–132,000 Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

ENGLISH BOOKING

MUSEUMS The Republic of Apartments Seoul Museum of History Thru May 6 Free T. 02-724-0274, www.museum.seoul.kr [ Map 1 A3]

New Acquisitions of Asian Art National Museum of Korea Thru Jun. 22 Free T. 02-2077-9552, www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4).

The Dawn of Ancient Civilization in Vietnam National Museum of Korea Thru Jun. 29 TBA T. 02-2077-9455, www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 5 A3]

National Palace Museum of Korea Thru Aug. 3 Free T. 02-3701-7500, www.gogung.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]

Encounter with Amit yus in Sukh vat , Buddhist Hanging Scroll at Hengguksa Temple National Museum of Korea May 2–Oct. 26 Free T. 02-2077-9493, www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4).

Classical music Fabio Biondi & Europa Galante Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 7, 20:00 KRW 40,000–130,000 T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

KRW 20,000–60,000 T. 02-399-1111, www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

Erin Deutsches Requiem National Theater of Korea May 13 KRW 10,000–30,000 T. 02-2280-411, www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2

shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Yeoksam Station 역삼역 (Line 2), Exit 8. Take a left and you’ll see it on your left.

Der Freischutz Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts M Theater May 21–24

IVRY GITLIS—Celebration of the Legacy LG Arts Center May 25

KRW 20,000–120,000 T. 02-399-1783, www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

KRW 50,000–120,000 T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com Yeoksam Station 역삼역 (Line 2), Exit 8. Take a left and you’ll see it on your left.

Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to

Don Kosaken Chor Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 14, 20:00

Don Carlo National Theater of Korea May 22–24

KRW 40,000–100,000 T. 02-3463-2466, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

KRW 10,000–120,000 T. 02-2280-4114, www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2

Maestros Chung’s Mahler Symphony No. 5 Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 23

Hugh Wolff Conducts Strauss Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 9

Freddy Kempf Beethoven Piano Concerto Cycle Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 17

KRW 10,000–70,000 T. 1588-1210, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

KRW 30,000–100,000 T. 02-541-3183, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Sejong Center Pipe Organ Series VII: The Spring of Organ Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts M Theater May 10

2014 The Ahn Trio Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 18

Anderson & Roe: Piano Fantasy 2014 LG Arts Center May 24

KRW 30,000–100,000 T. 1577-5266, www.sac.or.kr

KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com

KRW 10,000–120,000 T. 1588-1210, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Czech Philharmonic Orchestra Opera House, Seongnam Arts Center May 27 KRW 50,000–220,000 T. 031-783-8000, www.snart.or.kr Imae Station 이매역 (Line Bundang), Exit 1

The 2nd International Piano Festival “THE DUO”: Vladimir & Vovka Ashkenazy Duo Piano Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 27 KRW 30,000–100,000 T. 02-749-1300, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

2014 KOREA OPERA FESTIVAL <Salome>

Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center May 2–4 KRW 10,000-200,000 T. 02-587-1950, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

2014 KOREA OPERA FESTIVAL <Madam Butterfly>

Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center May 16–18 KRW 10,000–200,000 T. 02-543-2351, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Dance Sara Baras <Art Flamenco> Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts M Theater May 4 KRW 30,000–170,000 T. 02-2650-7481 www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

The 4th Ballet Festival (Korea Work 2 S) CJ Towol Theater, Seoul Arts Center May 23 KRW 15,000–50,000