JUNE 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99
www.seoulselection.com
ISSN: 1599-9963
ISSUE NO. 131
SHINHAN’S PHONE BANKING
p.2
Korean Baseball
p.10-11
Paju DMZ
p.14-15
BANYAN TREE POOLSIDE BBQ
p.18-19
Variety show tour gourmet gimbap
p.22-23
writers
p.28-29
Debbi Kent & Joan Suwalsky nail salons
p.30-31
p.33 Suwon Int'L Music Festival
p.3
boryeong MUD FESTIVAL
p.7
SEOUL INT'L SCHOOL
p.21
CONTENTS No. 131
June 2014 About the Cover Models Bright & Jeff Param near Yeouinaru Coordinated by Shin Yesol Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo Clothing Mixxmix (www.mixxmix.com)
12
26
Seoul travel bits
seoul talks
Exploring Seoul
14
28
TRavel Paju
Take Me Out to the Ballgame
16
Interview Debbi Kent & Joan Suwalski
10
Korea travel bits 18
Navigating the world of baseball … Korean-style
seoul walks Exploring the Heart of Korean Variety Show Country 20
Seoul sub—›urban Gyeongbokgung Station 21
SIS Seoul International School 22
Dining & nightlife The Premium Gimbap Movement
Publisher Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Felix Im Copy Editor Jaime Stief Producer/Coordinator/Writer Kim Hansol Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Yu Hye-joo Designer Cynthia Fernández Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Min Jae-won Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Contributors Joe McPherson Merissa Quek Alecia Janiero Thomas St. John
| Deanne Nguyen | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Loren Cotter
30
Shopping All Hands In: Nail Salons of Seoul 32
Goings-on around town Previews, Listings & More 36
Expat Buzz 40
Maps & guides
Address 2nd flr., 43, Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2-735-4001) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the written consent of the publishers. SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (pubco@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space. Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul. For details, see magazine.seoulselection.com.
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Exploring Seoul
Take Me Out to the Ballgame 한국식 야구 관람
Navigating the world of baseball … Korean-style Written by Thomas St. John
Doosan Bears vs Samsung Lions at Jamsil Stadium
N
o matter what part of the world you come from, there is probably a local baseball team associated with your region. As the sport continues to gain popularity in Asia, Korea is (thankfully) no different. But while there are still nine players, a bat,ㅁa ball and cheering fans, this is where many of the similarities end. Korea houses an extremely colorful baseball culture and, if you decide to check out a game, it is one of the best places to see the real Korea—not to mention some sights, sounds and tastes you might never see at a game at home.
Background Koreans have been playing baseball of some form for over 100 years, and professional baseball in its present incarnation since 1982. At that time, former president Chun Doo-hwan instructed six Korean conglomerates to create baseball teams in different cities as a way to help start a professional league. They did and, as expected, the public’s attention began to shift away from the political problems that Korea was facing in the early 1980s and focus more on the performance of their hometown teams. Things have changed considerably since the early days of professional leagues, which has given a distinctly Korean character to America’s favorite pastime.
What to Expect Newbies to the scene can look forward to an exciting experience that is probably unlike any baseball game you have seen before. In Korea, crowd participation is a given, and most fans hope for a spot in front of the cheerleaders, who are there to entertain between innings. If skirts aren’t your thing, keep your eyes peeled for the “yell leader,” a man (usually) who leads short songs tailored for each player from a small stage near the stands. Fans who attend games often know the songs and are keen to sing along.
11 While at the game, you may see a future Major Leaguer or even a familiar face from a Western team. With the huge success of LA Dodgers pitcher Ryu Hyun-jin, MLB is constantly watching for the next big sports star to come from Korea. According to local newspapers, there could be up to four players who, after this season, might opt to play in the Majors. Each team can have up to three foreigners, and many of such players have gone on to become quite famous in Korea. Some are former Major Leaguers, while others are up-and-coming players from the Minor Leagues who hope to make a name for themselves abroad. Each foreign player can expect a starting salary of about $250,000 or more per season, an amount that is substantially higher than the few thousand dollars per month that a Minor League player could hope for. Aside from adapting to the dramatic change in off-field culture, foreign players and fans alike must also embrace a few key differences from American baseball.
Some Major Differences One of the biggest surprises that visitors will find at a Korean baseball game is money left in their pockets after the final inning. Tickets start at just under KRW 9,000 for general admission, and while box seats and VIP treatment might cost more, the average family of four could expect to spend about KRW 25,000 to 35,000 on the outing, including snacks and drinks. The main reason is that, contrary to most Western venues, eating and drinking at the stadium is shockingly affordable. This feat is possible for a couple of reasons. The first has to do with patrons being allowed to bring their own refreshments into the stadium, with some attendees taking advantage of the many vendors selling fried chicken on the sidewalks leading into the event. But the majority of fans just head to one of the many businesses on site, where everything is very reasonably priced, especially compared to an MLB game. Beer, soft drinks, chips and instant noodles are the staples, but for the more adventurous fan, you can always grab a few dried squid that will be roasted especially for you, or even some gimbap. There is also a difference in the way the teams are organized. In MLB, each team is owned by an individual or group of owners, but in Korea, each team is sponsored by a chaebol or conglomerate. It’s a great way for the company to get exposure on TV and in newspapers, and fans
often build loyalty to certain companies through their teams. There will always be those baseball devotees who don’t care about the sponsorship, but each franchise still has diehard fans who pledge allegiance based on their location. One’s hometown is extremely important in Korea, and when it comes to baseball teams, there is a fierce rivalry that could easily challenge the Yankees-Red Sox any day. Summer is here and you’re in Korea, so why not take in a game? Don’t forget your camera!
Take Me Out to the Ball Game There are nine teams in the Korea Baseball Organization (KBO), with a tenth set to join the league in 2015. Every major city in the country is represented, and Seoul boasts the luxury of having three teams of its own, plus another within reach of the subway. Let’s have a look at the teams in the Seoul area. > Doosan Bears Formerly known as the OB Bears, this member of the original six-team league has remained popular, despite changing its sponsor company. The Bears play at the Olympic Sports Complex (Line 2) along with their fierce rivals, the LG Twins. > LG Twins The Twins share the Olympic baseball stadium with the Bears and, between the two teams, there is usually a game here on weeknights and every weekend. The team is sponsored by the LG group and is one of the hottest tickets in the city. > Nexen Heroes Playing out of Mok-dong Stadium, the Heroes are a newer team but have shown a lot of promise. Their home stadium, located at Omokgyo Station (Line 5), is smaller than the Olympic stadium, but still has a very fan-friendly atmosphere with nearly all seats close to the action. > SK Wyverns For the visitor with a little more time on their hands, a trip to see the Wyverns in Incheon is a great way to get outside of Seoul without getting plagued by traffic on the way home. By subway, you can take Line 1 west and transfer at Bupyeong Station before heading south to Munhak Sports Complex Station. From downtown Seoul, the trip will take approximately 1.5 hours.
LG Twins vs Lotte Giants at Jamsil Stadium
Dining & nightlife
Bapuri Sutbul Gimbap
The Premium Gimbap Movement After trying one, one would proclaim, ‘What took so long?’ Written by Joe McPherson
S
eoul has cycled through its fair share of trends, yet most of them have focused on foreign foods—the Burger Renaissance, gourmet pizzas, Ko-Mexican, craft beer. Korean staples have been the nerdy girl in the ‘80s teen comedy: always waiting for her moment in the spotlight. She’s pretty in her own way, but goes unnoticed until she transforms herself into the hot, fresh commodity with prom-queen potential. This year, the transformation has taken the form of premium gimbap. Think about it. Premium gimbap is a no-brainer: It’s accessible, almost everyone eats it, it can be filled with anything you can think of and with rolls ranging from KRW 3,000 to KRW 8,000, it’s also cheap enough to be affordable in spite of gourmet ingredients inside. There have been hints of this trend taking hold—foreshadowing, if you will—as some gimbap shops would feature a single special roll, like one stuffed with stirfried anchovies or chopped galbi. But it wasn’t until this spring that the movement hit full craze status. We have three great places are listed here, but it’s already getting to the point where a premium gimbap joint is opening in each major neighborhood, even in the suburbs. What’s also interesting is that the trend hasn’t come from the major gimbap franchises; many of these places are single mom-and-pop shops or brand new enterprises.
Dinner and Drinks with a View Take advantage of the weather by having a glass outside Written by Alecia Janeiro
Things are warming up in Korea, making it the perfect time of year to enjoy an evening outdoors in Seoul. The city offers endless possibilities for outdoor nightlife experiences. Here are three great places to go for dinner and drinks while appreciating the beautiful weather.
Báo
바오
Kyeongnidan is one of the most popular neighborhoods in the city, and Báo is the perfect place to sit outside and take in the hustle and bustle of the area over a casual dinner with friends. Owners Michael Yantzi and Marsha Taylor strive to create a welcoming, friendly atmosphere, as well as a unique dining experience. Báo is a Chinese cooking term referring to the pop and crackle sound that anything makes when it hits a hot pan, and the restaurant’s dishes do just that. Stir-fry is their specialty, and the menu allows visitors to choose from an array of delicious Asian sauces, vegetables, meat options and more. Their deep-fried desserts, such as ice cream and cheesecake, are delicious post-meal indulgences as well. The drink menu offers beer, wine and a variety of cocktails, which are excellent and all reasonably priced. The owners’ take on the mojito, known as the the Báojito, is especially refreshing on a warm summer evening. Book an outdoor table and sit back, relax and enjoy one of the freshest additions to the Gyeongnidan area. [ Map 5 A2]
T. 02-797-4769
Il Vino Rosso
일비노로소
Located just below Namsan Tower in the quiet neighborhood of Huam-dong, Il Vino Rosso offers visitors the chance to dine with one of the best views in the city. The upscale Italian restaurant has one of the nicest terraces in Seoul, bounded by a beautiful, flower-filled garden and a small forest. If it weren’t for the view of the sprawling metropolis below, it would be quite easy for diners to forget they’re in one of the largest cities in the world. The menu is built around a variety of Italian classics, all savory and tasty, and is complimented by their extensive wine list. The atmosphere makes it the ideal place for an outdoor date or intimate dinner party with friends. It is great for anyone looking for a lovely eatery that will transport them out of busy city life and into a tranquil, natural environment. Take bus 402 at Seoul Station Bus Transit Center, get off at Namsan Library stop, and walk past Huam Elementary School and German Embassy. T.02-754-0011
STANDARD Identity
스탠다드 아이텐티티
STANDARD Identity is in the heart of Seoul’s university nightlife district, Hongdae, and provides visitors with a great selection of coffee, drinks and Americanand Cajun-style food. Guests have the option of enjoying the modern indoor atmosphere or sitting outdoors with a view of one of the busiest areas of the city. The bar has a very unique style that sets it apart from others in the area: Floor-toceiling windows, quirky centerpieces (an old typewriter adorns the srawling indoor table) and camping furniture on the outdoor patio make it a fun, attractive place to hang out with friends. The bar serves a number of dishes, including pasta and outstanding barbecue. The fantastic coffee is moderately priced, and the cocktail list is substantial, with a particular focus on gin. STANDARD Identity offers Bombay, Tanqueray and Hendrick’s, a very uncommon selection in Seoul. Keep an eye out for the owner’s dog (aptly named Seoul), a friendly, lovable little guy who greets customers upon arrival. All-in-all, it’s definitely a worthwhile stop during a night out in Hongdae. Go while the weather is outstanding and enjoy the view! [ Map 3 A3]
T. 070-7762-5599
Interview
Opening the Door to an Undiscovered World ‘100 Thimbles in a Box’ authors Debbi Kent and Joan Suwalsky introduce readers to the charms of Korean handicrafts Written by Robert Koehler
F
or American writers Debbi Kent and Joan Suwalsky, the decision to put together “100 Thimbles in a Box: The Spirit and Beauty of Korean Handicrafts” (2014, Seoul Selection) was a natural outgrowth of what the two had been doing for years, namely, teaching classes about Korean art and handicrafts to adoptive children and parents. "People kept asking us to do a website with the information there," says Joan. “We thought that a website would be too time-consuming since we’d have to keep changing it up, so we wondered, ‘Why not write a book?’” And what a book they have produced. The 168-page soft cover volume is an expertly written and photographed introduction to the underappreciated world Korean handicrafts. And through the art, Debbi and Joan provide readers a glimpse of the Korean soul.
Shopping
All Hands In: Nail Salons of Seoul Written by Deanne Nguyen
W
hile we often take matters into our own hands, when we think about our appearance, how often do we make sure that our hands matter? We rely on our trusted indexes to work, bathe and—most importantly—smartphone, yet we often have a tendency to neglect them. Manicures and pedicures do more than just make our nails presentable; they reflect our grooming priorities, an extension of how well we treat ourselves. So, why not allow professionals to take our hands into theirs once in a while?
Preparing to be Pampered Salons in Seoul can range from pretty fancy to outright tacky when it comes to their concept, but make no mistake: Hand massages, drinks, snacks and café-esque themes are all smoke and mirrors. Attractive, yes, but indicative of the quality of the work they do, no. Most salons offer the same standard services sought after by all manicure and pedicure patrons: cleaning and color. Once you’ve assessed the hygiene level of the establishment—clean workstation, fresh cotton swabs, tool cleaning solution on standby—the rest is at your discretion. You could come with a design in mind, but unlike a hair salon, it’s best to see what kind of styles and trends a salon specializes in prior to your visit. Also, be sure to check if Coupang (www.coupang.com) thas any discounts available, either through the app or online. To get you started, here are five frequented salons that’ll leave your fingertips teeming.
Pro Nails
Long Lasting Color Pro Nails 프로네일 Basic Manicure: KRW 16,000 Complete Pedicure: KRW 40,000 This expat go-to in now trendy Itaewon is a no-frills favorite for their manicures: They last nearly two weeks and look just as juicy as gel. Add an extra swipe of clear coat after a day or two to add more lasting power. [ Map 5 D3]
10:00–20:00 T. 02-749-1525
Goings-on around town
PREVIEWs Pianist Mikhail Pletnev Recital in Seoul
Italian Design Meets Jewelry KF Cultural Center Gallery
May 22–Jul. 2 T. 02-2046-8500, www.kf.or.kr Free
In honor of 130 years of diplomatic relations between Italy and Korea, the Korea Foundation Cultural Center presents an exhibition that offers a new way to appreciate Italian design. Although the country’s aesthetic is famous throughout the world, most people don’t associate it with the country’s jewelry, which this exhibition proves is about more than simple necklaces and rings. Spanning from the 1950s to today, visitors will get a feel for how the craft of jewelry has changed throughout the decades, and how concepts like postmodernism and minimalism are applied to what we often don’t associate with philosophical ideas—wedding rings, necklaces and all other types of bling we might use to adorn ourselves.
Cats: Original Production in Korea Seoul Arts Center, Concert Hall Jun. 1, 14:00 T. 02-541-3183, www.sac.or.kr
KRW 50,000–150,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
After a six-year hiatus spent focusing on conducting, Russian pianist Mikhail Pletnev decided to return to the ivories last year by touring with Gidon Kremer’s Kremerata Baltica. He has since been steadily regaining his reputation as one of the world’s foremost pianists, and will be performing in Seoul for the first time in nine years. Pletnev was the First Prize winner of the Tchaikovsky International Piano Competition in 1978, a feat he accomplished at only 21 years old. After earning worldwide recognition, he was invited to perform in the 1988 superpower summit in Washington, where he managed to kindle a friendship with Mikhail Gorbachev. Through his ties with Gorbachev, Pletnev worked to increase artistic freedom in Russia, and in 1990 formed the country’s first independent orchestra, the Russian National Orchestra, which he conducted personally. The piano master won a Gramophone Award in 1996 and a Grammy in 2005, with BBC Music hailing his recording of Scarlatti’s Keyboard Sonatas as “piano playing at its greatest.” His upcoming performance in Seoul will feature his interpretations of Bach, Schubert and Scriabian.
Samsung Electronics Hall, BLUE SQUARE Jun. 13–Jul. 13 Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 3
T. 02-544-1591, www.bluesquare.kr KRW 50,000-140,000
You’ve probably heard of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical, “Cats,” but did you know that he wrote it based on “Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats” by T.S. Eliot? It’s surprising that a mainstream musical could come from such poetic origins. First produced in 1981 before its 1982 Broadway debut, the production has been translated into more than 20 languages and is the second longest-running show in Broadway history. The original production is finally making its triumphant return to the Peninsula, its first time in six years. Over a million people have gone to see “Cats” in Korea over the years, a testament to its popularity and international appeal. In addition to the unconventional storyline—a decision must be made regarding which cat can ascend to heaven and attain a new mode of existence—the costumes and set design are known to be crowd pleasers.
ENGLISH BOOKING
MUSEUMS Goodbye Dongdaemun Stadium! Seoul Museum of History May 30–Jul.13 T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr Free [ Map 1 A3]
Goodbye Expressway Overpass! Seoul Museum of History May. 30–Jul.13 T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr Free [ Map 1 A3]
New Acquisitions of Asian Art National Museum of Korea
National Museum of Korea Thru Jun. 29 T. 02-2077-9455, www.museum.go.kr TBA Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 5 A3]
T. 02-542-0350, www.sac.or.kr KRW 30,000–250,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
T. 02-2077-9493, www.museum.go.kr Free Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 5 A3]
All that Puccini All that opera gala concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 7, 8pm
classical music 2014 Korea Opera Festival [Soul Mate] Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center May 31–Jun.1
Woodblock and Knowledge National Folk Museum of Korea Thru Jun. 23
T. 02-586-5284, www.sac.or.kr KRW 10,000–100,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Ancient Civilization in Vietnam, the Early Morning in Red River
Sugi Opera Company [CARMEN] Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 6–8
Encounter with Amit yus in Sukh vat , Buddhist Hanging Scroll at Hengguksa Temple National Museum of Korea Thru Oct. 26
Thru Jun. 22 T. 02-2077-9552, www.museum.go.kr Free Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4).
T. 02-3704-3114, www.nfm.go.kr Free [ Map 3 A2]
KRW 30,000–150,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
NHK Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 1, 8pm T. 02-6303-1977, www.sac.or.kr
T. 02-2238-1002, www.sac.or.kr KRW 30,000–120,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
2014 The World Singers Korean Gagok Festival 2nd Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 9, 8pm T. 02-3473-8435, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000–220,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
2014 DITTO Festival—Joy of Mozart LG Arts Center
Jun. 10 T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com KRW 20,000–40,000 Yeoksam Station 역삼역 (Line 2), Exit 8. Take a left and you’ll see it on your left.
Trumpeter Alison Balsom Concert in Seoul Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 11, 8pm T. 02-6292-9370, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000–120,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Kyung Wha Chung & Friends Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 13, 8pm T. 02-780-5054, www.sac.or.kr KRW 30,000–200,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Artist Focus 1 - Jon Manasse / Clarinet, Kim Daejin / Piano Kumho Art Hall Jun. 19 T. 02-6303-1977 www.kumhoarthall.com KRW 9,000–40,000 [ Map 1 B3]
An Evening of Bruckner and
Bartok-Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra Subscription Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 20, 8pm T. 1588-1210, www.sac.or.kr KRW 10,000–70,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
2014 DITTO Festival - Different DITTO: Thus, the Night Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 22, 2pm T. 1577-5266, www.sac.or.kr KRW 25,000–60,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
The Korean Bride Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 26–29 T. 02-587-6181, www.sac.or.kr KRW 5,000–80,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Dance “Panorama” by Philippe Decoufle, Compagnie DCA LG Arts Center May 31–Jun. 1
T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com KRW 30,000–70,000 Yeoksam Station 역삼역 (Line 2), Exit 8. Take a left and you’ll see it on your left.
Seoul Metropolitan dance theatre’s Regular Performance ‘Dancing Scarecrow’ M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts M Theater May. 28–Jun. 1 T. 02-399-1114 www.sejongpac.or.kr KRW 20,000–30,000 [ Map 1 B3]
Altar National Theater of Korea May 31–Jun. 6 T. 02-2280-4114, www.ntok.go.kr KRW 20,000–70,000 Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [Map 5, B2]
The 4th Ballet Festival Korea_ Ballerino from Outer Space/ Out of the Box Jayu Theater, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 6–7 T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr KRW 10,000–20,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
The 4th Ballet Festival Korea- A