SEOUL (July 2014)

JULY 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

ISSUE NO. 132

INT'L SEON CENTER

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WATER PARKS

P.10-11

BUYEO

P.14-15

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

P.18-19

THE HISTORY BUS TASTES OF SUMMER

P.22-23

COMEDIAN

P.28-29

SAM HAMMINGTON

P.9

COEX AQUARIUM

P.12

TEMPLESTAY AT NAESOSA

P.21

CONTENTS NO. 132 JULY 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

ISSUE NO. 132

INT'L SEON CENTER

P.3

WATER PARKS

P.10-11

BUYEO

P.14-15

BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

P.9

COEX AQUARIUM

P.13

TEMPLESTAY AT NAESOSA

P.21

P.18-19

THE HISTORY BUS TASTES OF SUMMER

P.22-23

COMEDIAN

P.28-29

SAM HAMMINGTON

July 2014 About the Cover A slice of the sea at COEX Aquarium Cover Coordinated by Shin Yesol Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo Location COEX Aquarium

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EXPLORING SEOUL

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SEOUL TRAVEL BITS

DINING & NIGHTLIFE Three Summer Food Trends for 2014

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TRAVEL Buyeo

Fun in the Sun

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Splash into summer at Seoul’s water parks

KOREA TRAVEL BITS 18

SEOUL WALKS The History Bus 20

SEOUL SUB—›URBAN Hwarangdae Station 21

SPECIAL REPORT Templestay

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INTERVIEW Comedian Sam Hammington Gets Serious 30

SHOPPING Smart Essentials for Summer Travelers 32

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN Previews, Listings & More 36

EXPAT BUZZ 40

MAPS & GUIDES

Publisher Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Felix Im Copy Editor Jaime Stief Producer/Coordinator/Writer Kim Hansol Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Yu Hye-joo Designer Cynthia Fernández Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Min Jae-won Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Contributors Joe McPherson Merissa Quek Alecia Janeiro Mimsie Ladner Simon Bond

| Deanne Nguyen | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Loren Cotter | Ogan Gurel | Jon Dunbar

Address 2nd flr., 43, Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2-735-4001) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—­without the written consent of the publishers.

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EXPLORING SEOUL Caribbean Bay

Caribbean Bay

FUN IN THE SUN Splash into summer at Seoul’s water parks

도심 근처 워터파크

Written by Mimsie Ladner

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ummer—it has officially arrived. For many Seoulites, the word conjures up imagery of sandy beaches, rooftop barbeques and sweltering hot afternoons spent slurping down jumbo-sized bowls of icy patbingsu. For thrill-seekers, the best part of the season is the excitement experienced while plunging down a waterslide into a chlorinated utopia. For others, lounging pool-side under an oversized umbrella is enough to survive the stifling temperatures. Whether you’re a daredevil or you prefer to simply chill out, the water parks near the Seoul metropolitan region include something for everyone and will help you beat the summer heat when a cold glass of Cass just won’t cut it. Read on for our top picks.

Caribbean Bay

용인 캐리비안 베이

The 50,000-acre Caribbean Bay has certainly earned its long-standing reputation as the king of Korean water parks, with a notable variety of slides, rides, pools and play areas that can accommodate up to 20,000 people. In addition to being known for its excellent facilities, Caribbean Bay is arguably the most thrill-inducing park in the city.

Brace yourself for a liquid adrenaline rush on the AquaLoop body slide, where riders are dropped into an 18-meter near free fall and then defy gravity as they are shot through a 360-degree loop at knuckle-whitening speeds of up to 90 kilometers per hour. Equally terrifying is the Water Bobsleigh, a high-speed slide that features a 26-meter drop.

Other park highlights include the gargantuan Wave Pool, which produces waves as high as 2.4 meters, the pirate-themed children’s Adventure Pool and River Way, one of the world’s longest lazy rivers. Caribbean Bay’s attention to detail and commitment to theme (think artificial waterfalls, cabana huts, sandy beaches and tropical music) make it a perfect getaway to escape the neon and concrete of the city center. Additionally, its convenient location just next to Everland Theme Park makes it possible to experience even more fun

before heading home on one of the park’s efficient shuttle buses.

T. 031-320-5000, www.everland.com/caribbean KRW 42,000–55,000 09:30–18:00 Jeondae.Everland Station 전대에버랜드역 (Everline), Exit 3.Take the shuttle

Icheon Termeden

이천 테르메덴

Nestled in the heart of Icheon, a Seoul satellite city famed for its hot springs, Termeden Spa and Resort attracts visitors from all over the country with its acclaimed water quality, which is believed to possess a number of health benefits. Although the resort’s spas make it a particularly popular winter destination, the complex transforms into a water park wonderland during the warmer months.

Termeden boasts a number of pools and slides but the most popular attraction is the 30-meter wide Bade Pool, which uses an assortment of underwater jets that are perfect for massaging sore muscles and easing fatigue. The pool’s aesthetics are as equally impressive and despite the pool’s being indoors, there’s plenty of natural light to create an open, airy space.

Do as the Koreans do by beating the heat with heat at the themed hot spring pools. Here, natural ingredients such as ginseng, rice (another famed product of the area) and honey are added to the water to produce healing effects on the body and mind. Afterwards, consider a doctor fish pedicure.

Garra rufa, a special breed of fish, will nibble the dead skin off your feet, ensuring that your toes are sandal-ready for the summer.

T. 031-645-2000, www.termeden.com KRW 6,000–34,000 08:00–20:00 Buses to Termedan depart from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal twice a day.

DINING & NIGHTLIFE

Three Summer Food Trends for 2014 Ice cream, mango bingsu and lobster rolls Written by Joe McPherson

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orean winters are famous for their extreme coldness. Korean summers are getting increasingly famous for the opposite. This year is on the path for being one of the hottest summers on record, starting with all those early blooms in spring. Thankfully, Korean cuisine adapts well to extreme points on the mercury. Seoul is also a land of intense trends. Fashion and music are not unique islands of this phenomenon. Food trends in Seoul live and die by the same intensity. Here are three that the food fortune tellers have in store.

Just Kick Back and Relax Where to watch World Cup 2014 Written by Alecia Janeiro

Because of the time difference between Brazil and Korea, finding good, exciting places to watch World Cup 2014 will not always be easy. The following bars are all open during the tournament, and are great venues for enjoying the games.

Hollywood Bar and Grill 할리우드바 앤 그릴 Hollywood is one of the oldest bars on the Itaewon Main Street, and it is the go-to place in the neighborhood for all sporting events. The bar is spacious, and customers can play darts, pool or foosball, or simply sit and enjoy the game on one of the many televisions. Most local sports enthusiasts frequent Hollywood regularly, so any big game is guaranteed to draw a crowd and provide an exciting time for fans. It is an especially fun place to watch World Cup games because the matches always draw supporters from both sides. The bar is also known for their delicious bar food, and the wings and pizza are especially worth trying. Order a refreshing cider, beer or cocktail, plus a bite to eat, and sit back and enjoy the game with the crowd.

T. 02-749-1659 [ Map 5 C3]

Route 66 루트 66 Route 66 is the newest addition to the Itaewon area. Owner Geoff Griffin is a native of Pittsburgh, so the menu contains many Northeastern US specialties like the Pittsburgh Stack, a sandwich containing pork, coleslaw, French fries, tomato, mozzarella cheese and garlic mayonnaise. With a number of beers on tap, plus a reasonably priced cocktail list, you cannot go wrong with a visit to Route 66. During the World Cup, matches will be shown on two TVs and a projector screen, and the bar will serve pizza after midnight. Stop by, play a few rounds of darts, and enjoy one of the games with a good group of people. The atmosphere is cozy, and it is certainly the best new place to watch any major sporting event in Itaewon.

T. 010-3315-0015 [ Map 5 D3]

Maloney’s Pub and Grill 말로니스펍 앤 그릴 Maloney’s was one of the first foreign-owned bars to open in Gyeongnidan.

Owner Brendan Maloney started with a small place in the neighborhood and quickly built up a reputation for offering a welcoming space, so he opened a bigger bar more recently. The beer selection is one of the largest in Gyeongnidan and the food is fantastic. In particular, the burgers are the best in Seoul. World Cup games will be shown on a big screen, and given the neighborhood regulars and diehard sports fans that frequent the bar, it’s certainly going to be one of the most fun places to watch the match. If you are looking for a laid-back, friendly place to view the Cup, make Maloney’s your destination.

T. 02-3785-1670 Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2. The walk takes a little more than ten minutes, but you can take the Yongsan maeul bus 03 across the street and get off at Sungdo Pharmacy stop. It's on the second floor of Pizza Maru.

The Upper Deck 어퍼 덱 Upper Deck is the newest sports bar in Gyeongnidan. A two-level sports bar with projectors on both floors, Upper Deck is the perfect place to grab a drink and a bite to eat while watching the World Cup. The bar is big and open, and is a very inviting location for large parties to enjoy matches. With an extensive food menu including sandwiches, breakfast, ribs, inside out pizza, wings and other appetizers, there is something for everyone to enjoy. The drink list is even longer and UD runs specials every night of the week, including discounts on beer, shots, wine and well drinks. Drop by for a match and you won’t be disappointed!

T. 02-749-1223 Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2. The walk takes about ten minutes, but you can take the Yongsan maeul bus 03 across the street from exit 2 and get off at Daesung Church stop. It's across the street on the second floor.

INTERVIEW

A FUNNY STORY

Comedian Sam Hammington Gets Serious Written by Felix Im Photographed by Chae Giwon

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am Hammington had no idea that a career in comedy would one day lead him to serving in the Korean military.

“We get no special treatment. We’re living the same way all the other kids do,” Hammington explains. “You know, if I had done this 15 years ago it would have been a hell of a lot easier,” he jokes. Over a cup of coffee in Gyeongnidan, Hammington sits down with SEOUL and shares the story of how he got into this mess.

Hammington has spent the last year overcoming some grueling experiences, all on public display via national television: Rappelling from helicopters, driving around in multimillion dollar tanks, blowing up claymore mines, jumping into frozen rivers—just another day on the job. Why would he put himself through such trials? It’s all part of an extremely popular television series titled “Real Men” (진짜 사나이) in which celebrities serve as voluntary recruits in the Korean military. The results are sometimes inspiring and sometimes jaw-dropping, but regardless of the context, each episode can always be counted on for a few laughs.

SHOPPING

BUYING MODE:

SMART ESSENTIALS FOR SUMMER TRAVELERS Written by Deanne Nguyen

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houghts of travel induce one of two things: daydreams or dread. After some time, however, a seasoned collector of passport stamps or bus stubs knows that it’s more a mixture of the two. The waiting, the aches, the motion sickness, not to mention the digestive problems for days: how can the idea of getting to our destination be so thrilling, yet the trip itself so excruciating? Calm your fears: it takes but a few well-paired essentials to tame the trip, and it starts with knowing the mode of transport.

BY LAND

BY AIR

Traversing the open road—by car, bus or train—allows for a bit more freedom in carryalls, though the journey ahead might be a long one. A weekender duffel bag is ideal for many reasons. First, the flat design makes items easy to access.

Second, the design itself caters to ease of stowage, especially without extra doodads dangling off. To pass the time, tunes are a must: a smartphone with a generous screen size gives you equal access to Spotify playlists and Little Commander gaming. Finally, if you can afford the space, invest in a campingstyle drink cooler; for the beach, an inflatable one will do. Either way, your companions will herald you as road trip hero. Oh, and don’t forget your summer shades—90s reflectors have returned.

The fastest and safest way to travel remains easily the most daunting and uncomfortable, due to the safety precautions and hardly idyllic seating situations.

Aside from bringing a compact carry-on set to avoid the need to check your luggage, a neck pillow and a sleep mask are the only ways you’ll survive the unpleasantness of the flight—add ear plugs only if the pressure doesn’t bother you. Upgrade to memory foam and you’ll wake up to find Mr. 26B envying your preparedness. Between naps, you can catch up on book club reading (if you exhaust the in-flight movies). Also, share a facemask spa session with your row mates, a hilarious deplaning activity to liven up the cabin drabness.

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8 1 Galaxy S5, Samsung, KRW 596,000 www.gmobileshop.co.kr 2 Premium Sunglasses in Clear Green Moonshine, Knockaround, KRW 43,500 29.cm.co.kr

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5 Dream Zone Sleep Mask, Earth Therapeutics, KRW 31,900 gmarket.co.kr 6 Crema 1 E-Reader, Yes24, KRW 214,000 for 16GB and 239,000 for 32GB yes24.com

3 Natural Dye Weekender in Wine, II-SE, KRW 400,000 www.ii-se.co

7 Facemasks in Twenty Types, Etude House, KRW 950 each etude.co.kr

4 Ultra Extreme Sport 40L Cooler, Coleman, KRW 83,000 gocamp.co.kr

8 Two-Piece Carry-On Set in Fazzino Venezia, Heys, KRW 715,000 canishow.co.kr

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

PREVIEWS SOUND FESTIVAL 2014 SUE-JIN KANG & TANZ COMPANY INNSBRUCK BALLET PRESENTS ‘MADAME BUTTERFLY’

Seoul Arts Center, Opera Theater Jul. 4–6, 20:00 on Fri., 19:00 on Sat., 15:00 on Sun. T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr KRW 40,000–200,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

An opera by Puccini, “Madame Butterfly” is an opera whose libretto is partially based on a short story by John Luther Long. The original short story draws influences from stories told to Long by his sister and the semi-autobiographical 1887 French novel “Madame Chrysantheme” by Pierre Loti. The opera version was originally written as two acts, but after its disastrous opening performance in Milan, Puccini drastically rewrote it, splitting the second act into two. Puccini went on to write five different versions of the Opera, with the fifth version (debuted in 1907) eventually becoming the “standard version” that’s performed the most around the world today. The story is a tragic one, a dark tale of the grief that accompanies unrequited love. Pinkerton, an American naval officer, comes to Japan and rents a house in Nagasaki. He soon marries a young Japanese girl out of convenience, knowing that Japanese divorce laws are lax. His plan is to later marry an American woman and divorce his new Japanese bride, whose name means “Butterfly.” After spending their first night together, Pinkerton soon leaves for professional affairs, leaving Butterfly to wait for him with all her purity and tender affection. Having finally fulfilled her dream of marrying an American, Butterfly couldn’t be more thrilled to have her new husband. Unfortunately, Pinkerton goes to America and returns years later with his new American wife. When Butterfly realizes that Pinkerton does not love her, that she has been betrayed and misled, the results are disastrous and outright tragic. Performed by ballerina Sue-jin Kang, principal dancer of the Stuttgart Ballet, and the Tanz Company from Innsbruck, this opera of love, deception and heartbreak is a must-see for Puccini fans.

Mapo Arts Center Jul. 18–19, 20:00 on Fri., 15:00 & 20:00 on Sat. T. 02-575-9123 , www.mapoartcenter.or.kr KRW 44,000–55,000 Daeheung Station 대흥역 (Line 6), Exit 2. Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

The first of its kind, Sound Festival 2014 is a project that’s being launched by Sound ,the music magazine. All too aware that the K-pop movement is limited in its ability to create real fans of real music, Sound is looking to increase more people who actually listen to music.

Music in Korea is still an entertainment phenomenon, one that is heavily based on visual aesthetics. Thus, the real “fan of music” is still a relatively unusual thing in Korea. That’s where Sound comes in, a magazine that seeks to introduce mainstream audiences to real “sounds,” or authentic music looking to offer the genuine aesthetic pleasure that should come from listening to a great song or album. Sound’s first music festival, in response to the popularization of “girl groups,” or girl bands, is launching under the theme of Korea’s female musicians. Come and see for yourself what the women of Korea are really singing about, because it’s most likely not going to be broadcast on your television or radio.

THE 18TH SEOUL INTERNATIONAL CARTOON & ANIMATION FESTIVAL Seoul Animation Center & CGV Myeongdong Station Jul. 22–27 T. 02-3455-8435, www.sicaf.org KRW TBA Myeongdong Station 명동역 (Line 4), Exit 1 (Seoul Animation Center), Exit 7 (CGV).

Animation fanatics will be pleased to hear that the Seoul International Cartoon and Animation Festival is back.

Founded in 1995, SICAF has served as the stage for introducing some of the world’s best and most unique forms of animated films. Every year more than 1,500 films are submitted to be exhibited at the festival, a number that can compete with any of the world’s top animation festivals. In addition to showcasing some of the world’s best animated filmmakers’ hard work, the program is also designed to raise cultural awareness and boost the aesthetic quality of life for all citizens, regardless of age, artistic taste or social status. The festival is divided into the competition section and the invited guest section. There are also a number of booths available where visitors can delight in all that the participants have prepared over the year, including special screenings and opportunities for filmmakers to network.

ENGLISH BOOKING

MUSEUMS Goodbye Dongdaemun Stadium!

Seoul Museum of History Thru Jul.13 T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr Free [ Map 1 A3]

Goodbye Expressway Overpass!

Seoul Museum of History Thru Jul.13 T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr Free [ Map 1 A3]

JONGMYO National Palace Museum of Korea Thru Aug. 3 T. 02-3701-7500, www.gogung.go.kr Free [ Map 1 B2]

Beyond Impressionism: the Birth of Modern Art National Museum of Korea Thru Aug. 31 T. 02-2077-9275 www.museum.go.kr KRW 8,000–12,000 Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4).

Giving birth: the story of three generations (working title) National Folk Museum of Korea Jul. 16–Sep. 22 T. 02-3704-3114 / www.nfm.go.kr Free [ Map 1 C1]

CLASSICAL MUSIC Abel’s French CollectionsSeoul Philharmonic Orchestra Subscription Concert

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 4 T. 1588-1210, www.sac.or.kr KRW 10,000–70,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Seoul Pops 26th Anniversary Concert-Pops Fiesta

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 8 T. 02-593-8760, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000–160,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Korea-Germany Arts Concert The Kim Yeong-ui Hall of Ewha Womans University Jul. 10

T. 1544-1555 KRW 30,000–100,000 Ewha Womans Univ. Station 이대역 (Line 2), Exit 2.

KRW 20,000–30,000 Daeheung Station 대흥역 (Line 6), Exit 2. Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

2014 SAC Youth Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 12

Arts Concert - ltaly season∥ [Rome with love] Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 19

T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr KRW 15,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Opera Gala Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 14 T. 031-392-6422, www.sac.or.kr TBA Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Opera Matinee Tosca Chamber Hall, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Jul. 15 T. 02-399-1783, www.sejongpac.or.kr KRW 20,000–25,000 [ Map 1 B3]

New Love Story Mapo Arts Center Jul. 16 T. 02-3274-8600 www.mapoartcenter.or.kr

T. 02-2658-3546, www.sac.or.kr KRW 30,000–70,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Mostly with Liedertafel: Summer Night Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 20 T. 02-581-5404, www.sac.or.kr TBA Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Koreanische Flute Orchestra Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 21 T. 02-586-0945, www.sac.or.kr KRW 30,000–100,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

2014 Tchaikovsky Summer

Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 24 T. 02-3487-0678, www.sac.or.kr TBA Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Korean War Memorial Concert for Peace Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 26 T. 02-3473-8802, www.sac.or.kr TBA Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Peter Beets with Rosenberg Trio Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul. 27 T. 02-2038-2267, www.sac.or.kr KRW 33,000–110,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Jang-hyun Ryu: A new work LIG Art Hall ∙ GANGNAM Jul. 4–5 T. 02-331-0085 www.ligarthall.com KRW 30,000 Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2 or

Sinbundang Line), Exit 8. Walk 100m.

The hall is across Yeoksam District Tax Office.

DANCE Jae Duk Kim: Smile LIG Art Hall Jul. 17–19 T. 02-331-0085, www.ligarthall.com KRW 30,000 Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2 or Sinbundang Line), Exit 8. Walk 100m.

The hall is located at the opposite side of Yeoksam District Tax Office.

Seoul Metropolitan Theatre ‘Gyun’ M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Thru Jul. 13 T. 02-399-1114 www.sejongpac.or.kr TBA [ Map 1 B3]

MUSICAL On the Moonlit Baekma River Drama Center, Namsan Arts Center Thru Jul. 6 T. 02-745-3966 www.nsartscenter.or.kr