OCTOBER 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99
www.seoulselection.com
ISSN: 1599-9963
ISSUE NO.135
SHINHAN’S PHONE BANKING
P.3
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF KOREA
GWANGJU P.7
P.14
TEMPLESTAY JEONDEUNGSA
P.18
P.8-9
SEOUL FIREWORKS HI SEOUL FESTIVAL
P.10-11
AUTUMN STROLLS
P.20-21
GHOST STORIES
P.24-25
STREET EATS
P.28-29
MUSIC GROUP
P.34-35
COREYAH
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Publisher Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) / Address 2nd flr., 43 Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea / Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 / E-mail hankinseoul@gmail. com / Website www.seoulselection.com / Registration No. 서울 라 09431 / Copyright by Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2735-4001) About the Cover Model Park Ye-rin at Bukchon Hanok Village Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the written consent of the publishers.
EXPLORING SEOUL Seoul Int'l Fireworks Festival
28
10 14
SEOUL TRAVEL BITS
31
16 18
KOREA TRAVEL BITS
20
SEOUL WALKS Seoul's Autumn Colors
24
SEOUL TALKS Korean Ghost Stories
26
SEOUL SUB—›URBAN Yeouinaru Station
TRAVEL Gwangju
TEMPLESTAY Jeondeungsa Temple
DINING & NIGHTLIFE Street Food ‘Hoods SEOUL HEALTH Eat your veggies
32
SHOPPING Booking Club
34
INTERVIEW Folk Group Coreyah
36 40 44
GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN Previews, Listings & More EXPAT BUZZ MAPS & GUIDES
Advertising NO-HAGGLE PRICING 광고가는 정찰제입니다 To advertise in SEOUL or subscribe to our magazine call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com
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EXPLORING SEOUL
Fire in the Sky Where to go to get the most out of the Seoul International Fireworks Festival
Written and photographed by Robert Koehler
T
he Seoul International Fireworks Festival (Oct. 4, 1 PM to 10 PM) is one of the biggest events on the Seoul calendar, and for a very good reason—featuring top fireworks teams from both Korea and abroad, the show lights up the skies over the Hangang River in a truly spectacular kaleidoscope of color. It's an evening you're unlikely to forget. So mesmerizing it is, in fact, that seemingly half the country will be there to watch it, so SEOUL gives you some tips on where to go to get the best views.
DINING & NIGHTLIFE
Street Food ‘Hoods Where to eat when you’re on the go Written by Joe McPherson Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo
A
s the weather cools, Korea’s street food carts emerge. They have a presence all year long, but the winter brings them on in larger packs with foods that keep your hands warm and your mouth scorching. Korea’s street food industry has been thriving despite local government efforts to curtail them, arguing that their makeshift setups are an eyesore in the city. In some parts of northern Seoul, vendors have been required to use standardized, dull-colored street carts, and in Gangnam, a video has surfaced of thugs trashing street food carts because the vendors were taking up street space. That’s a shame, as Korea’s street food is one of its main charms to tourists. One of the worries that some tourists have is food safety, despite the fact that tales of food sickness from Korean street food are rare. The trick is to get street food from well trafficked areas; these carts are busy, and their food is always fresh. Any cart that isn’t up to sanitary standards would not last long in one of those neighborhoods. There are multiple guides outlining what street foods are available in Seoul, so that info does not need to be rehashed here. Instead, this is a guide to some of the more interesting and innovative food streets. All are within easy walking distance of the subway and are easy to access. My only advice is if you don’t know what it is or what to do, just point and smile, and signal how many you want. The vendor will just hold up her hand to tell you how much it is. It’s the finest of dining.
Ready-made rice bowls near Noryangjin Station
DINING & NIGHTLIFE TRAVEL
In with the New Gyeongnidan’s newest bars
Written by Alecia Janeiro Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo
O
ver the course of the past year, the popularity of Gyeongnidan, a little neighborhood near Itaewon High Street, has exploded. Weekends, in particular, draw large crowds, and new businesses are opening on an almost-weekly basis. Here are three of the newest bars in the area that are well worth visiting.
1
La Uva
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At first glance, La Uva looks more like a bar that belongs in the Mediterranean than one nestled in the back streets of Itaewon. The brick basement interior with high ceilings, stone arches and large bar are reminiscent of a wine cellar combined with an upscale European venue, with music to match. Owner Hyun-jun Kwon also runs a highly successful restaurant nearby, TuCan, and he has gone to great lengths to give customers a truly unique experience with his new bar. The drink list contains a great selection of wine, cocktails and beer, and the food menu is unlike any other in the neighborhood. Customers have a choice of Spanish-style tapas, many of which change depending on the time of year, because La Uva only uses the freshest ingredients. The seafood tapas, in particular, are prepared with seasonal catches, ensuring great quality and outstanding taste. People in search of a Mediterranean experience in Seoul should definitely pay La Uva a visit.
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Noksapyeong Station 녹사 평역 (Line 6), Exit 1. Use the crosswalks to get to the side of the main road that leads to Gyeongnidan. After walking up, take your first right, at Sweet Bee, and keep going until you pass a Seven Eleven, then take the first left afterwards. La Uva should be on your right, in the basement.
Distilled
Distilled opened with the goal of offering minimalist, flavorful cocktails in a neighborhood where they are sometimes hard to find. They stray away from bottomshelf liquor and artificially sweetened liqueurs, so all drinks contain quality alcohol, often infused with fresh ingredients at the bar. For example, their Classic Ramos Gin Fizz contains a perfectly blended mix of egg white, cream, citrus, and gin that is sure to leave connoisseurs wanting more. Located in the basement on the main street of Gyeongnidan, the interior reflects tastes that are minimal yet tasteful. The music is not too loud, the style is modern but unpretentious, and the atmosphere is relaxed. It is the perfect place to chill with friends and enjoy some of the best drinks in the area.
Take the same path as the way to La Uva, above, except stop before the Seven Eleven, near a pharmacy, at Well Being Mart. Facing the mart, Distilled is in the basement of the building on the right of Well Being.
Six Months Open
Located in one of the quieter backstreets of Gyeongnidan, Six Months Open is a new multilevel bar striving to offer customers the taste and feel of Northern Europe. One of the owners, Dong Mi Lee, is a travel writer and wishes to bring a bit of Berlin, her favorite city in the world, to Itaewon. Like many bars in Germany, Six Months Open was created with minimalism in mind. The space is inviting, warm and relaxing. The owners also wish to provide their customers with a bit of nature, so the bar contains many plants and flowers. The menu offers a small selection of quality wines, imported bottled beers and classic and signature cocktails prepared by a professional bartender who created his own recipes especially for the bar. Six Months Open is a great place to visit with people who are looking for a comfortable atmosphere where they will feel at home immediately. Take the same path as with La Uva, except pass the Seven Eleven and go all the way to the end of the street, until you see Carmen Bar on your left. Take your second left after the bar, on the street with Seongji Motel, and go up until you see Six Months Open on your right.
SHOPPING
THE BOOKING CLUB Four stores for print enthusiasts Written by Deanne Nguyen Photographed by Ryu Seunghooo
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all is often called “the season for reading” in Korea, a saying endeared but with unknown origins. Some say in the past, reading was a luxury only afforded to those who finished harvesting their crops, elevating the appeal of literacy. Others will argue it’s but a made-up campaign during Japanese colonial rule for propaganda purposes, modernly adapted as nothing more than clever marketing by publishing companies. Whether you’re a romantic or a cynic, there’s no denying the
saying’s resonance. Reading brings worlds to our laps and liberates thought, trans-continentally sharing the voices of the voiceless over thousands of years. Knowing its merits, we hardly need an excuse, except perhaps a reminder to rejoice in it. To celebrate the season of reading, we bring you bookstores that not only sell books but which have been built as a domain for readers to thrive, offering the freedom to scan, browse and read for as long as one pleases.
Hermes Museum: Equestrian Library and Café Madang–Apgujeong Luxury’s library The scene-stealing orange cubic storefront of the iconic French luxury brand is deceptive; the back, the real entrance into the bookstore and café downstairs, is bleached, unadorned concrete. The bookstore itself is presented as a historical collective of inspirations for the brand, which has solidified itself in leather goods and silk block-printed scarves since 1837. Chocolate-colored chairs, not unlike the desserts they offer in the café, line the wall opposite the bookshelves, just asking to be sat in for hours to soak in canvas images of horse drawn carriages, French countryside and tropical topiary. Note: the Book Store and Café are under construction until mid-October T. 02-546-3643 Apgujeong Station 압구정역 (Line 3), Exit 3. The café is located on the south side of Dosan Park.
Taschen–Daehak-ro Atlases of art: works and worlds The German publishing titan has planted itself a second-story shop that is made for lingering bookworms in the theater district of the popular pedestrian street. It openly displays its massive-sized books—Helmut Newton film archives, Japanese rope-binding bound references—which may be too extravagant in price and page size for the average home, but are refreshing for an afternoon of perusing. Titles are arranged categorically by type, region or period, but it’s best to un-focus the eye and simply allow the perfect random title to invite you for a peek.
T. 02-3673-4115, www.taschencafe.com/ book_taschen/ Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 1 or 2. The café is located in the heart of the local theater district, right next to AN Art Hall.
INTERVIEW
FINDING NEW IN THE OLD Fusion Korean folk band Coreyah wades into the uncharted waters of modernizing Korea’s traditional sounds Written by Felix Im Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo
Sheraton Grande Walkerhill ‘Camping in the City’
GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN
PREVIEWS GLOBAL GATHERING KOREA 2014 THE 19TH BUSAN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Jamsil Sports Complex Oct. 4 T. 02-2240-8809, globalgatheringkorea.co.kr KRW 85,000 합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7
Sports Complex Station 종
The Global Gathering is an annual dance music festival organized by Angel Music Group, which serves a pivotal role in the international festival market. Since being founded in 2001, the festival has become one of the U.K.’s most popular electronic music fests. The festival offers a wide range of genres such as house, trance and dubstep, and is held across the globe, stopping in places such as Ukraine, Poland, Turkey, Russia, Belarus, Australia and the U.K. Global Gathering Korea was first held in 2009, with every event held since then surpassing the last. This style of music event is part of a larger trend of taking electronic music out of clubs and into outdoor venues, and the results so far have been epic. This year's lineup includes Dada Life, Idiotape, Bassjackers, Krewella and more.
MARIAH CAREY LIVE IN SEOUL: THE ELUSIVE CHANTEUSE SHOW Olympic Park, 88 Jandi Madang Oct. 8, 20:00 T. 02-1544-1555, www.olympicpark.co.kr KRW 66,000–198,000 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3
Busan Cinema Center, Centum City and Haeundae area
Oct. 2–11 T. 02-1688-3010, www.biff.kr
Although the Busan International Film Festival started as a small event in the port area of Nampo-dong, it is now the largest film festival in Asia. In 2011, the festival's popularity allowed it to relocate to a new, luxurious home in the Busan Cinema Center, Centum City, in the fashionable Haeundae area. Costs to erect the building peaked around USD 150 million, and the space was designed in a sleek, avant-garde fashion by Austria-based architecture collective Coop Himmelblau. Last year, the festival showed 301 films from 70 countries; this year's roster is set to include 313 films from 79 countries, with 132 world and international premiers. Although major stars and directors are always present, the focus of the festival always has been new films and emerging directors. The festival also offers a variety of special events and outdoor performances. Tickets for opening and closing films are only available online, while 20 percent of seats for regular films (both indoor and outdoor) will go on sale at on-site ticket booths.
International pop sensation Mariah Carey is performing in Seoul for the first time in more than a decade. Carey’s performance was vaguely hinted at during the Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival: a large screen displayed her photo, with a date and location— no further details. The playlist is expected to be a mix of her biggest hits fused with firsttime performances of songs from her latest album “Me. I am Mariah ... The Elusive Chanteuse.” Carey is in her 24th year as a professional musician, having sold more than 200 million records worldwide. Regarding her upcoming tour, Carey said, “I can’t stop writing songs, so don’t be surprised if you hear a brand new song that I just wrote the night before the show in your city!”
ENGLISH BOOKING
MUSEUMS Seoul City Wall Discovered On Namsan Seoul City Wall Museum Thru Oct. 12 T. 02-724-0243 www.museum.seoul.kr Free
Encounter with Buddhist Hanging Scroll at Heungguksa Temple National Museum of Korea Thru Oct. 26 T. 02-2077-9493, www.museum.go.kr Free
Ode to the West and East Small Gate Seoul Museum of History Thru Oct. 31
T. 02-2077-9265, www.museum.go.kr Free
CLASSICAL MUSIC 2014 The 32th Korea International Music Festival Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 1–4, 20:00 (17:00 on Fri. ) T. 02-2655-3060, www.sac.or.kr KRW 30,000–150,000
Tetzlaff Quartet LG Arts Center Oct. 2 T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com KRW 40,000–80,000
Opera Romeo et Juliette Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 2–5
T. 02-724-0274, www.museum.seoul.kr Free
T. 02-586-5282, www.sac.or.kr KRW 10,000–150,000
Porta del Paradiso National Palace Museum of Korea Thru Nov. 14
Scala & Kolacny Brothers Concert in Seoul Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 5, 20:00
T. 02-780-8635, popekorea2014.co.kr KRW 8,000–12,000
In Blue and White: Porcelains of the Joseon Dynasty National Museum of Korea Sep. 30–Nov. 16
T. 02-2650-7481, www.sac.or.kr KRW 20,000–180,000
Korean (Russia) immigration of the 150th anniversary concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 7, 20:00
T. 02-937-3719, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000–150,000
Los Romeros IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 9, 20:00 T. 070-7434-4502, www.sac.or.kr KRW 70,000–110,000
Daniil Trifonov Piano Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 14, 20:00
David Russell Guitar Recital IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 22, 20:00
Maksim & His Band Opera House, Seongnam Arts Center Oct. 28
T. 02-541-3184, www.sac.or.kr KRW 40,000–80,000
T. 02-568-8831, www.snart.or.kr KRW 55,000–110,000
Kristjan Jarvi ’s Absolute Ensemble & Sarah Chang Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Oct. 23–24
Romantic concert with Tchaikovsky concertos Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 29
T. 02-541-6234, www.sac.or.kr KRW 40,000–100,000
T. 02-796-7078 www.sejongpac.or.kr KRW 70,000–300,000
The Violinists, 2014 Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 18, 20:00
Zehetmair Conducts Schubert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 24, 20:00
T. 02-2658-3546, www.sac.or.kr KRW 40,000–100,000
T. 1588-1210, www.sac.or.kr KRW 10,000–70,000
Dang Thai Son Piano Recital IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 19, 20:00
Roby Lamatos Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Oct. 25
T. 02-541-3184, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000–90,000
T. 02-3487-0678 www.sejongpac.or.kr KRW 40,000–120,000
Korean Choral Music Festival Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 20–22 T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr TBA
The Salzburg Orchestra Soloists IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 27, 20:00 T. 070-4367-3103, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000–80,000
T. 02-525-8105 www.sac.or.kr TBA
DANCE SIDance 2014 - Korea Identity through Dance 19-1 CJ Towol Theater Oct. 1 T. 02-3216-1185, www.sac.or.kr KRW 20,000–40,000
SIDance 2014 - Kim Hyoungmin & Mateff Kulmey & Benjamin Schalike Jayu Theater, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 2
The Night of Korean Art Songs Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 30
T. 02-3216-1185, www.sac.or.kr KRW 20,000–30,000
T. 02-555-4713, www.sac.or.kr TBA
SIDance 2014 - Denmark Focus I : Don*Gnu, Lucy Suggate Jayu Theater, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 4
Talking with the Orchestra Ⅰ Also Sprach Zarathustra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 31, 20:00 T. 02-523-6258, www.sac.or.kr KRW 10,000–50,000
Andreas Ottensamer Recital IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct. 31, 20:00 T. 070-4699-4928 www.sac.or.kr KRW 66,000–88,000
T. 02-3216-1185, www.sac.or.kr KRW 20,000–30,000
The Rite of Spring Small Hall, Daehangno Arts Theater Oct. 10–11 KRW 20,000
Inside of Life (武林江湖) Bloody Warrior Small Hall, Arko Art Theater Oct. 12–13