SEOUL November

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GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

NOVEMBER 2013

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ISSUE NO. 124

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ISSN: 1599-9963

Contents NO. 124

10 Exploring Seoul

November Wanderings 14 Seoul travel bits

ISSUE NO. 124

16 Gangnam Spotlight

K STAR Road 18 Travel

P10

Discovering Jejudo on Foot 20 Korea travel bits 22

History walks

Hyochang Park 23

Seoul sub→urban

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24

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Euljiro-1-ga Station P20

Seoul stories

Manna Bunsik & Moats and Wells of Pungnaptoseong Fortress

November 2013

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Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

광고 문의

About the Cover Model Lee Kyung-min in Buam-dong.

Dining & nightlife

T R A V E L

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C U L T U R E

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Hotteok: Yawl! Barbarian Rice Cakes

M A P S

No-haggle pricing 광고가는 정찰제입니다 To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

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Shopping

DIY Shopping Culture in Korea 32

Interview

Film Director Jang Joon-hwan

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Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more

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Expat community page Maps & guides

| Deanne Nguyen | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Loren Cotter

Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584)

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Seoul Selection

Contributors Daniel Gray Merissa Quek Robert J. Fouser Daisy Larios Doug MacDonald

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[SYMBOL K BIRD]

NOVEMBER AT A GLANCE

SUGGESTED SEOUL ITINERARIES DAY 1

[CROSSWALK]

2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] .

Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ].

Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest.

Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Enjoy the Autumn in Seoul

SEOUL introduces you to some our favorite autumn neighborhoods. >p10–13

DAY 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ].

[K STAR ROAD BENCH]

Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1].

Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

DAY 1

3 days / 2 nights Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2].

Discover Jejudo's Natural Beauty The scenic island of Jejudo hosts the Jeju [K ROAD APP] Olle Trail Festival, one of Korea's premier walking festival. >p18-19

Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong.

Walk the K STAR Road

Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Discover what Gangnam Style really means at the new urban trail dedicated to the Korean Wave. >p16-17

Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Party like there’s no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdamdong [ Map 11 C2].

DAY 2 ROAD

Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park.

ROAD

Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch.

Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ], including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2].

Enjoy the Seoul Lantern Festival Beautiful paper lanterns light up the sky above the Cheonggyecheon Stream. >p14

Do It Yourself

Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats.

SEOUL directs you to the best DIY shopping in the city. >p30-31

Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].

DAY 3 Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3].

Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3].

See Seoul from the Sky! Blue Airlines has begun helicopter tours above Seoul. >p42

Get the Nexus 7 at Concierge Korea's best source for tablet PCs gets even better >p39

Take in the Autumn Colors The southern parts of Korea are in their full autumn splendor in early November. >p20-21

Exploring Seoul

NOVEMBER WANDERINGS JEONG-DONG, BUAM-DONG AND GAROSU-GIL OFFER PLENTY OF AUTUMNAL CHARM Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

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ovember is a great time to pick up a book—or your e-book reader of choice— and head down to a quiet cafe for an afternoon of coffee and contemplation, or stroll about romantic alleyways as the autumn winds rustle the fallen leaves on the street. SEOUL Magazine introduces three quiet (relatively) neighborhoods that are especially enchanting in fall, when the leaves turn color and fall and temperatures get brisk.

Chungdong First Methodist Church

Tree-lined street, Jeong-dong

Deoksugung Palace and its environs, seen from Jeongdong Observatory

JEONG-DONG 정동 As Seoul’s historic “Legation Quarter,” Jeong-dong is best known for its historic Western-style architecture, including legations, schools and churches built by some of Seoul’s first Western residents in the early 20th century. It’s a pleasant, shady neighborhood of quiet alleys, golden ginkgo trees and red brick buildings. A particularly popular walking path is Deoksugung doldamgil, which follows the stone wall that marks the southern edge of Deoksugung Palace.

soup) for decades. Deoksujeong (T. 02-755-0180) does lovely Korean stews. Jeongdong-gil (T. 02-318-3556) serves some wonderful jeyuk bokkeum (spicy pork). Another pleasant place to eat—despite the name—is Café Birds N Bugs (T. 02-777-8988), where you can score good sandwiches and desserts that can be washed down with a variety of handmade teas.

City Hall Station 시청역 (Line 1 or 2), Exit 1

Things to See Seoul’s primary royal residence in the dramatic days of the Daehan Empire (1897—1910), Deoksugung Palace forms the heart of Jeongdong. It’s an eclectic mix of Korean and Western architecture, including a Russian-designed pavilion used by King Gojong as a coffee house. One of its historic Western-style buildings now serves as the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Deoksugung.

Other historic buildings worth visiting include Chungdong First Methodist Church (1898), the old Supreme Court building (1928, now the Seoul Museum of Art), the east hall of Pai Chai Hakdang (1916), Ewha Hak Dang’s Simpson Memorial Hall (1915), Jungmyeongjeon Hall (1901), Salvation Army Central Hall (1928), the tower of the old Russian Legation (1885) and Seoul Anglican Cathedral (1926). The last is one of Seoul’s most beautiful buildings, harmonizing Romanesque and traditional Korean elements. Many of the buildings are now museums with interesting displays about the district’s history.

Another highlight is Chongdong Theater (www.chongdong.com), one of the best places to see Korean traditional performing arts.

The best views of the area are had from the newly opened Jeongdong Observatory on the 13th floor of Seoul City Hall’s Seosomun Annex. There’s a coffee shop up there, too.

What to Eat Namdo Sikdang (T. 02-734-0719), hidden in the alley just in front of Jungmyeongjeon Hall, has been serving a mean chueotang (mudfish

Salvation Army Central Hall Jeyuk bokkeum, Jeongdong-gil

Dining & nightlife

Features Hotteok: Yawl! Barbarian Rice Cakes One dish I believe is universally adored in Korea is hotteok, or leavened dough cake stuffed with

Written and photographed

by Daniel Gray

but later evolved into a sweet snack.

cinnamon, sugar and nuts. The dough is flattened and fried, and through the frying process, the

The many varieties of hotteok all over Korea, from sweet to savory, are available on the

sugar melts to create delicious caramel filling. According to accounts from food historians, this

streets, convenience stores, cafés and even fine dining establishments. Typically this was a

snack was brought to Korea by Chinese immigrants who first landed at Incheon's international

winter snack but hotteok is available year round. But I recommend finding a busy hotteok stall

port. Though the snack and its name resembles Western “hotcake,” hotteok’s etymology is

in January and waiting in line for 20 minutes as your fingertips and face freeze. The first bite

derived from Chinese and Korean. “Ho” means barbarian in Chinese and “tteok” means rice

of this crisp and chewy “caramelley” snack is like a shot of adrenaline. Here are several of my

cake in Korean. The original version of this snack had meat filling like the Mongolian khuushuur,

favorite hotteok places in Seoul.

High-end Hotteok from W.e.

Samcheong-dong area

더블유이

W.e. takes Korean concepts and modernizes them through Western techniques and ingredients. What this also does is inflate the price nearly ten times. W.e.'s banana hotteok is like a modular banana foster.

The batter is stuffed with ripe bananas, nuts, sugar and spices and then fried in a circular mold. The plate is drizzled with spiced caramel, one hotteok is placed on it and then topped with bruleed bananas.

A second hotteok with more bananas is put on top and garnished with crushed pistachios. You can even get it served a la mode with Haagen-Dazs® ice cream.

Variations such as berry and apple are also available. For drinks, the café has a range of cocktails, teas and coffees.

W.e. 더블유이

Grandpa Hotteok

할아버지 호떡

Samcheong-dong area

If you happen to be strolling down from Anguk Station Exit 4, you might see a little truck parked. In the back is a jovial grandpa making hotteok on a circular pan. Here the snack is quite light and fluffy, as they are more baked than fried.

The way he bakes them gives them a pocket of air inside. The little cakes have a light sugary and cinnamon flavor that reminds one of Christmas. This variety of hotteok makes for great food to eat while walking, just a quick snack to get you to your next destination. Also, I don't think this grandpa has quite caught up with the times; he charges just KRW 500 per cake.

Grandpa Hotteok 할아버지 호떡

T. 02-739-0919

Price: KRW 500

Price: KRW 9,000-12,000

Go out Anguk Station exit 4 and walk straight. Look for the truck on the sidewalk past Unhyeongung Palace. The vendor is towards the end.

Take minibus 11 from Gwanghwamun Station Exit 2, get off at Samcheong Pachulso Station, walk up a block and walk into the alley next to Samcheong Methodist Church.

The Million Dollar Ajumma

남대문 야채호떡

Namdaemun Market area

Rumor has it that the ajumma that started her honey and vegetable hotteok stand in Namdaemun Market makes USD 1 million a year. I guess that seems possible since queues stretch down the block.

She is so busy that she needs helpers to manage the lines. At this hotteok stand, throngs of tourists and locals all wait for this amazing treat. So what makes it so special? The ajumma is most known for her vegetable japchae hotteok. The light dough is stuffed with a heaping of seasoned sweet potato noodles and vegetables and fried until a crisp crust appears on the outside. The noodles are flavorful but not too mushy, and brushing on sweet fruit-soy sauce is recommended. This dish is supposed to be a snack but can be big enough for a meal (and for only KRW 1,000, it's a steal). The stand is located by Namdaemun Gate 2. Get in line and wait for your vegetable hotteok delight.

Nutty Hotteok

씨앗 호떡

Noryangjin area

One way to entice Koreans to try something is to add a “well-being” or “good for health” moniker to it. Is there really a “healthy” chocolate pie or potato

Yachae Hotteok 남대문 야채호떡

chips? Well, this trend can also be applied to hotteok. The healthy version of this snack started in Busan and has made its way to Seoul. Regular hotteok is

Price: KRW 1,000

dusted in sugar and then a mix of pumpkin, sunflower seeds and walnuts are

Hoehyun Station 회현역 (Line 4), Exit 5. Walk straight up the busy market street and you’ll see the vendor towards the end.

put on it. The healthy and fortifying nuts nearly double the price to KRW 2,000 per cake. I have to admit, the crunchiness adds complexity to the dish (but I reject the idea that it is healthier since it is still fried in oil).

Nutty Hotteok 씨앗 호떡 KRW 2,000 per cake Across from McDonald's at Noryangjin Station Exit 1.

Shopping

DOING IT YOURSELF IS THE PATH TO PERSONALIZATION Written by Deanne Nguyen

The girl in her starched middle school uniform standing next to you on a packed subway appears to be studying a handful of buttons cradled in her palm. Upon closer inspection however, she is seen holding a cellphone, encased in the entire contents of a sewing kit. If she weren’t so glued to the TV drama on her little Samsung screen, she would sheepishly tell you that she made it herself. Her eyes, however, briefly flash with child-like pride before she returns to her digital affairs.

The need to create and craft in the name of the self is visceral, and the monogram alone cannot merely satiate it. This impulse can only be satiated by its equally ardent enabler, DIY. According to Arirang News, do-it-yourself projects in Korea have surged since the early 2000s and continues to permeate Korean culture, which is generally service oriented.

Why would people in Korea, a country where materials tend to be equally as cheap as labor, if not more so, and time is a luxury and not necessarily a right, forgo the convenience of professionals and opt for doing the grunt work themselves? The answer lies in personalization. A carpenter can follow your specifications only as well as communication allows. After that, it’s up to his better judgment.

But if you take furniture into your own hands, world conduits do not limit you and the table of your dreams. Make it as you please and thus, it is indeed your own. Which is why our cellphone girl, despite the hundreds of cheap in-store and online options for dressing her phone, chooses one with personal flair, freeing her weekend self momentarily from her mandatory dress code.

SELF-MADE FASHION The most popular form in which DIY manifests itself is fashion. Korea celebrate attire and decorum daily and their displays of style knowledge is borderline competitive. To keep up with runway trends or simply invent their own on a budget, students and even office workers have turned to DIY. That said, with the absence of the typical Western craft megaplexes such as Michael’s or A.C. Moore’s, where do they acquire these materials, you wonder? The easy answer is the Internet, but in actuality, most DIYers rely on markets for their supplies. Here are several of the go-to markets in Seoul for the crafty.

Dongdaemun Shopping Town 동대문종합시장쇼핑타운 Divided into two main sections (Chonghap Shopping Complex and Shopping Town), this is the mecca for a DIY pilgrimage. DIYers generally flock to the fifth floor of Chonghap’s B section for accessories, while most other areas offer a buffet of textiles, bedding and other housewares.

Dongdaemun Station 동대문역 (Line 1, 4), Exit 9, www.dongdaemunsc.co.kr, T. 02-2262-0114, 8 a.m.–6 p.m.

Goings-on around town

PREVIEWS+

MOSCOW PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall Nov. 1, 4, 8 p.m. T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000-250,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit. Transfer to shuttle bus or green bus No. 4429 (Line 1, 4, Airport), Exit 2

BERLIN PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall Nov 11–12, 8pm T. 02-6303-1911, www.kacf.net KRW 70,000-450,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit. Transfer to shuttle bus or green bus No. 4429

The Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra will perform on Nov 11–12 under the seasoned direction of Sir Simon Rattle. The first-day program includes Schumann’s “Symphony No. 1” and Russian composer Prokofiev’s “Violin Concerto No. 1” where the troupe’s first concertmaster Daishin Kashimoto will collaborate as soloist. On Nov. 12, they will perform “Notations for Symphony Orchestra” by French composer and conductor Pierre Boulez and Bruckner’s seventh symphony.

The orchestral concert is prepared by the Kumho Asiana Cultural Foundation.

HERBIE HANCOCK LIVE IN SEOUL Chungmu Art Hall Grand Theater Nov. 8, 8 p.m.

Sindang Station 신당역 (Line 6), Exit 9

KRW 77,000-150,000

Under the skillful baton of maestro Yuri Simonov, the Moscow Philharmonic Orchestra is set to present the best rendition of Russian classical music written by several of the country’s greatest composers. The program will feature Glinka’s “Waltz-Fantasy for Orchestra,” Rachmaninoff’s “Piano Concerto No. 3” and Tchaikovsky’s “Symphony No. 6.” Globetrotting Russian pianist Andrei Gavrilov and cellist Sergey Antonov will join as collaborators. The orchestra was founded in 1951, and Simonov has been principal conductor since 1998.

BACH MEETS PIAZZOLLA T. 02-337-3277, www.cmah.or.kr

Seoul Arts Center IBK Chamber Hall Nov. 2, 8 p.m T. 02-2658-3546, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000-250,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit. Transfer to shuttle bus or green bus No. 4429

Astor Piazzolla was an Argentine musician who revolutionized the tango, infusing that passionate and somewhat melancholic dance with elements of classical music and jazz. But Piazzolla would later name Bach as a major influence and immerse himself in the German composer’s intellectual works. The concert will feature six of the two composers' signature works, including “Air on G String” and “Oblivion,” through the talents of violinist Jung Sang-hee, Argentine bandoneon artist Fernando Rezk and Quartet Su.

American jazz giant Herbie Hancock is returning to Korea for a concert, the first since he performed in Seoul in May 2011. With an illustrious career spanning five decades and 14 Grammy Awards, including the 2007 Album Of The Year for “River: The Joni Letters,” he continues to entertain audiences. Throughout his musical journey, he has transcended limits and genres while maintaining his unmistakable voice.

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global

MUSEUMS Feng Zheng Jie, Joyful Play of Colors- Adept Use of Colors in “Faction” Aesthetic Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art Thru Dec 17 TBD / T. (064) 710-7801 www.jejumuseum.go.kr Takes about an hour from Kimpo airport(Seoul) to JeJu airport.

Congo River, Art of Central Africa National Museum of Korea Oct 22–Jan 19, 2014 Free / T. 02-2077-9271 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Beijing, a City’s Rise Seoul Museum of History Nov 21–Feb 3 2014 Free / T. 02-724-0274~6 www.museum.seoul.kr Seodaemun Station 서대문역 (Line 5) Exit 4. Walk 300m. [ Map 1 A3]

Science Show The Body War Memorial of Korea

Thru Mar 2, 2014 Adults: KRW 12,000, Children: KRW 10,000 T. 070-7539-6916 [ Map 8 A3]

CLASSICAL MUSIC Lang Lang Piano Solo & Concerto Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall Nov 20, 8 p.m.

KRW 60,000-170,000 T. 070-8680-1277 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널 역 (Line 3), Exit. Transfer to shuttle bus or green bus No. 4429

Sinsegae Classical Festival Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall Nov 5 TBD / T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

The 8 Pianists–Preview 1 IBK Chamber Hall Nov 23 8pm R KRW 44,000/ S KRW 22,000

T. 02-2658-3546 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle

Prime Philharmonic Special Concert IBK Chamber Hall Nov 2 8pm

Mint Festa vol. 41 ~ mauve KT&G Sangsang Madang Nov 10 5pm

R KRW 55,000/ S KRW33,000 T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Peter Cornelius Leiderabend Recital Hall Nov 1 TBD / T. 02-2658-3546 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Magdalena Kozena Seoul Arts Center Concert Hall Nov 19 R KRW 150,000/ S KRW 120,000/ A KRW 80,000/ B KRW 50,000 T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미

bus, or green bus No. 4429.

CONCERT

KRW 30,000–35,000 T. 02-322-0014 www.sangsangmadang.com/ [ Map 7 D2]

Tacopy’s Real Life KT&G Sangsang Madang Nov 8 KRW 30,000–35,000 www.sangsangmadang.com/ [ Map 7 D2]

Eastern Sidekick KT&G Sangsang Madang Nov 2 KRW 33,000 T. 02-511-0380 www.sangsangmadang.com/ [ Map 7 D2]

The Sherlock Choi Hyun Wu Magic Concert Blue Square Samsung Card Hall Nov 15–Dec 1

R KRW 99,000/ S KRW 77,000/ A KRW 55,000 T. 1544-1591 Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2]

Lucky Moment with Dynamic Duo Olympic Park Olympic Hall Nov 23–24 KRW 77,000–99,000 T. 1544-1555 http://ticket.interpark.com/ Global/Play/Goods/GoodsInfo. asp?GoodsCode=13009912 Olympic Park 올림픽 공원 (Line 5), Exit 3

I’m Min Hye-gyeong Blue Square Samsung Card Hall Nov 9–Nov 10 VIP KRW 250,000/ R KRW 120,000 T. 1544-1591 www.bluesquare.kr Hangangjin Station, Line 6. Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2]

Sensation Ilsan Kintex Nov 30 KRW 125,000–200,000 T. 1544-1555 Daehwa Station 대화역 (Line 3), Exit 3. Transfer to shuttle bus.

MUSICALS The Musical Wicked Charlotte Theater Nov 22–Dec 22 KRW 60,000–270,000 T. 02-1644-0078 http://www.charlottetheater.co.kr/ Jamsil station 잠실역 (Line 2, 8), Exit 3

Rude Miss Young-Ae KT&G Sangsang Art Hall Nov 15–Jan 12 2014 KRW 66,000 T. 02-3404-4311 www.sangsangarthall.com Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2),Exit 2.

Musical Concert <Dream In> National Theater of Korea Theater Yong Nov 20–Dec 22 Tue, Thu,Fri 9am,11am,2pm/ Wed 9am, 11am/ Sat 9am KRW 10,000 T. 02-796-7831,7832 www.theateryong.or.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이 촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Murder Ballad the musical LOTTECARD Art Center

Maps & guides43 SERVICES NEW YORK WHOLISTIC CARE 뉴욕홀리스틱케어 New York Wholistic Care offers one month of free membership through Oct 31 to those signing up for its three-month Pilates course. Established in 2006, the clinic has a holistic approach to treatment through its four major programs: chiropractic, yoga, Pilates and therapy massage. The programs are designed to relieve pain, re-energize mind and body and eventually correct structural imbalances for optimum health and body awareness. A KGFA Golf Conditioning program is also offered. All staff members are fluent in Korean and English.

T. 02-792-2296, www.nywc.co.kr [ Map 8 E3]

SHOPPING CONCIERGE 컨시어지 Perhaps thanks to Apple’s star designer Jonathan Ive raising the bar, form is increasingly becoming an inseparable companion of function in the consumer electronics world. In other words, there are a lot of sexy electronic gadgets and accessories out there; so many, in fact, that the average busy Seoul dweller needs a reliable shop to pick out, explain and sell the best of them. Thankfully, CONCIERGE’s 43 Apple Premium Reseller and hybrid stores are on hand to do just that. | www. concierge.co.kr | CONCIERGE’s main branches are located in major Lotte department stores and Home Plus Mart in Uijeongbu. Also check the nearest local branch at the website.

November

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’s PICKS OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

Myeong-dong Branch T. (02) 6361-8399, www.concierge.co.kr [ Map 4 B2].

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TIGER FOLKLORE REBORN AS OUTDOOR SHOW The Seoul Metropolitan Government has created an outdoor performance based on a Korean folktale about the Inwangsan mountain tiger and the Seoul Fortress Wall. Titled “Bag of Stories–Seoul City Wall Built with Tiger Rock,” the show is held at 3pm every Saturday Oct 26 to Nov 9 at Naksan Park, as part of the Seoul Storytelling Project to create new tourist attractions.

According to legend, construction of the fortress wall was long delayed due to a tiger that used to haunt villages by nightfall.

Eventually, the villagers and the tiger ended up coexisting peacefully.

T. 02-3673-4594 Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 2.

Walk 20 mins past Marronnier Park.

Map

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Seoul’s old downtown

Map

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Map

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T. 02-6303-1977, www.kumhoarthall.com Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 7. Walk 200m in the direction of Seodaemun.

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon

Map

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Myeong-dong

Map

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Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

Map

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Map

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Hangangjin Quickly turning itself into the trendiest spot in town

Map

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Yeouido The Manhattan of Seoul

Map

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Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s hippest college town areas

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet Map

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

ART/CULTURE Kumho Art Hall is an excellent concert venue situated in downtown Seoul near Gwanghwamun. The 390seat hall boasts state-of-the-art facilities provided by the Kumho Asiana Cultural Foundation. In line with its policy of no recess for the venue, the foundation offers all types of concerts at the hall every day of the year under various themes. The Beautiful Thursday Concert program is the most well-known. Most recently, the foundation launched Korea’s first artistin-residence program, appointing Leipzig-based pianist Kim Da-sol, 22, as its first beneficiary.

Insa-dong A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

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KUMHO ART HALL 금호 아트홀

Gwanghwamun Area

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

Map

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Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond