SEOUL (June 2013) - PREVIEW

DINING WITH A VIEW H

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GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

JUNE 2013

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ISSUE NO. 119

￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

Contents NO. 119

10 Exploring Seoul

광고 문의 T R A V E L

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C U L T U R E

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Dining with a View

M A P S

14 Seoul travel bits

No-haggle pricing

16 Gangnam Spotlight

광고가는 정찰제입니다

Garosu-gil

To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

18 Travel

Hwasun 20 Korea travel bits

SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFER! Huge reductions on domestic subscriptions to SEOUL magazine!

• 6 months: KRW 30,000 → KRW 14,000 • 12 months: KRW 60,000 → KRW 25,000 FREE postage for international subscribers

International subscription rates: •6 months: US $30 •12 months: US $59 To subscribe, call (02) 734-9567 or email sense@seoulselection.com.

22

History walks

Sungnyemun Gate and Its Neighbors 23

Seoul sub→urban

Dongjak Station 24

Seoul stories

June 2013

Ichon Hangang Park

About the Cover Model Isabella Brunner at Walking On The Cloud, 63 City (p10)

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Dining & nightlife

Majangdong Beef Market & Sogyeokdong Kitchen 29

Talk of the town

SUBSCRIPTION EVENT The first five people who sign up for a oneyear subscription to the magazine this month will receive a special gift: one of the latest perfumes released by Perfumelifer.

Authorities Strengthen Regulations on International Marriages 30

Shopping

Shopper’s Paradise?

32

Interview

SuperSound Founder Kim Dong-hyun 53

Seoul of zen & Oriental medicine

Healing Your Soul and Body

Perfumelifer

•

www.perfumelifer.co.kr This Korean niche perfumery sees perfume as an art—if you see perfume as just another fashion statement, they ain’t for you.

Perfumelifer is all about individual sensibility-based creativity. Try Seoul Selection Bookshop in the Samcheong-dong area.

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Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more

Useful coupons 38

Expat community page

[ Map 3 A4] T. 02-734-9565 www.seoulselection.com/bookstore

For the latest Seoul-related news and events, follow Seoul Selection on Facebook and Twitter! And don’t forget to sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, look up past SEOUL articles, and browse through our on-line bookshop at www.seoulselection.com

Seoul Selection

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Maps & guides

QR codes with gray borders directly link to individual Google Maps.

QR codes with blue borders directly link to individual websites.

@seoulselection T R A V E L

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C U L T U R E

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M A P S

Photographed by RAUM Studio Styled by April Jackson (www.pinkfashionninja.com) Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designers Lee Bok-hyun, Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor Daisy Larios Translator David Carruth Contributors Loren Cotter Daniel Gray Merissa Quek Robert J. Fouser Curtis File Ben Jackson

| Raimund Royer | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Daisy Larios | Peter DeMarco

Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise —­without the written consent of the publishers.

SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (book@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul.

For details, see http://magazine.seoulselection.com.

WHERE’S Where to purchase SEOUL 1. Seoul Selection’s off- and on-line bookshops (www.seoulselection.com) 2. Major bookstores such as Kyobo Book Centre, YP Books and Bandi & Luni’s Bookstore 3. The following US military bases: Yongsan, Osan, Camp Humphreys and Camp Casey

Where to pick up SEOUL for FREE 1. Branches of SEOUL magazine advertisers: Jaseng hospital of Korean Eastern Medicine, Nanta Theater, Korea International School, Shinhan Bank, W Hotel, SOMERSET PALACE, IP&I, Astoria Hotel, Baerlin, Dongguk University International Seon Center, New York Wholistic Care, UBA Breast Clinic, Hair & Joy Hair Salon, Zen Hair Salon, Tartine, Between, Suyedang, Etonne, Concierge, Korea House, Dragon Hill Spa, On the Border, Avenue JUNO 2. Tourist Information Centers in Seoul 3. Hotels & serviced residences: Chosun hotel, THE SHILLA SEOUL, JW Marriott Hotel Seoul, Seokyo Hotel, Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts, Park Hyatt, Imperial Palace Hotel, Banyan Tree, Ritzcarlton Seoul, Lotte City Hotel, Grand Intercontinental Hotel Seoul, Gogung Hotel, Best Western Primier Hotel Kukdo, Lexington Hotel, Hotel Riviera, Grand Ambassador Seoul, Ibis Seoul Ambassador hotel, Incheon Airport Hotel, Koreana Hotel, Hotel Sunbee, Prima Hotel, Hotel Sevilla Incheon Airport, Hillside, Marriott Residence, Vabien Seoul, Vabien Suite, Fraser Place Central Seoul, Fraser Suites, Co-op Residence, Seoul Residence, Oak Wood Premier Coex Center, Stanford Hotel, Koryo Hotel, Best Western Gangnam Hotel, Ellui Hotel, Travellers A Hostel, Fox Hotel 4. Major cafés: All Starbucks and Café Nescafé branches in Korea and major branches of Angel-in-us have copies you can read for free.

SEOUL SELECTION

BOOKSHOP

Largest collection of Korea-related books in English anywhere Friendly staff with tons of travel information

Film and drama DVDs, music CDs available, too

Address B1 Korean Publishers Association B/D 105-2 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea, 110-190 Tel 82-2-734-9565(Bookshop), 82-2-734-9567(Office) Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com

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BROCHURES PUBLISHING Dozens of titles on all things Korean Specializing in books on

Korean culture, history and literature. Published titles include Korea’s best-rated travel guides.

Specializing in design of all kinds of English-language publications.

Accurate English copy-writing and editing.

Knowhow based on long experience.

Exploring Seoul

A FEAST FOR YOUR EYES DEVOUR SOME OF SEOUL’S FINEST VIEWS, AND THE CUISINE THAT COMES WITH THEM Written by Loren Cotter

S

eoul is a skyscraper city with ample opportunities for dining in a picturesque setting. Whether you are at a peak of the metropolis’s surrounding mountain landscapes or south of the river in the hectic hub of Gangnam, you can undoubtedly discover an epic view of the Hangang River, hanok rooftops, or majestic skyscrapers. Uncover the cream of the crop through our guide to the most scene-stealing sights in the city and the restaurants from which to gaze upon them.

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Indulge with a sight of the Hangang, Seoul’s resplendent river Walking On The Cloud, located near the top of the golden-faced 63 Building, is one high-rise dining option close to the Hangang River. Based in Yeouido, the view from the restaurant is truly dramatic—and the international menu has a price tag to match. An evening at the 59th floor location will set you back between KRW 96,000–230,000 for a multicourse set meal. The crayfish starter comes highly recommended, however, as does the magnificent view.

For more affordable fare at KRW 44,000 for an evening spread, Viking (T. 02-782-3344), an international buffet restaurant, has an excellent vista of the National Assembly at Yeouido—and the Hangang River behind it—from its 20th floor windows.

Looking for somewhere a little closer to the water?

A Season of Secret Garden (T. 02-413-5535), an Italian floating restaurant and wine bar in Jamsil’s dock, is situated right on the Hangang itself, with full-length windows emphasizing the aquatic view. While the restaurant’s flashy exterior and interior decor may not be to everyone’s taste, the beautiful river landscape will be. Skip the overpriced desert (KRW 12,000) and make your way to one of nine cafes situated on the six bridges linking southern and northern Seoul afterwards.

Our top choice is Gureum Café (T. 02-3476-7999), where you can consume a soft drink or alcoholic beverage along with a spontaneous pork cutlet or steak meal while taking in Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain Show from spring to autumn.

Walking On The Cloud (59F) 워킹온더클라우드 T. 02-789-5904 www.63restaurant.co.kr, www.63wotc.co.kr Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4 or Saetgang Station 샛강역 (Line 9), Exit 1 Walking On The Cloud (63 City), photographed by RAUM Studio

Goings-on around town

PREVIEWS+

DITTO FESTIVAL 2013 Seoul Arts Center, LG Arts Center Jun 9–30 KRW 30,000–100,000 Seoul Arts Center: Nambu Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5 LG Arts Center: Yeoksam Station 역삼역 (Line 2), Exit 8 [ Map 3 C2]

KIM JONG-HAK SOLO EXHIBITION Gallery Hyundai, Gallery Hyundai New Space & Dugahun Gallery T. 02-2287-3500 www.galleryhyundai.com [ Map 3 A4]

Jun 12–Jul 7

www.dittofest.com

The Ditto Festival is preparing for its fifth edition; this year’s theme is “City of Bach.” The 2013 edition will kick off on June 9 and go until June 30, featuring violist Richard Yongjae O’Neill, pianist Lim Dong-hyek, Luxembourg pianist Francesco Tristano, cellist Michael Nicolas, and German violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter. Founded

by O’Neill in 2007, the Ensemble Ditto quickly made a name for themselves in Korea with the annual festival. The festival is acknowledged with the appearance of young, prominent performers and the theme configuration.

Admission: TBA

Celebrated career painter Kim Jonghak is holding a solo retrospective exhibition that will dramatically present the gist of his artistic vision.

The exhibition, prepared to time with his 77th birthday, will take place at Gallery Hyundai from June 12 through July 7. A total of 50 works will go on display, including his signature oil canvases of Mt. Seoraksan and woodprints that he created in the early stage of his career. As a resident artist of the mountain, he deals with its scenery, earning him the endearing title “Painter of Seorak.”

MAGIC ON ICE

T. 1577-5266

KOREA QUEER FESTIVAL

Blue Square May 30–Jun 9 KRW 66,000–110,000 Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 2

T. 1544-1555

http://magiconice.co.kr

Hongdae area Jun 1–16 T. 0505-303-1998 http://www.kqcf.org Hongik University Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2), Exit 8 [ Map 7 ]

Magic On Ice, a new genre of ice show, is coming to Seoul. The ice show incorporates skating, illusion, and performance art into a thrilling series of magical moments. Awe-inspiring costumes, music, lighting, and spectacular aerial acrobatics create a surreal environment. As producer and creator of Magic On Ice, Steve Wheeler has entertained over 20 million people around the world with his team. Korean-American professional skater Yebin Mok will join the team. Part of the proceeds, KRW 5,000 per ticket, will go to local charity groups like the Beautiful Foundation, Compassion Korea, and Good Neighbors.

The 13th Korea Queer Culture Festival will kick off June 1, moving its main festival site from downtown Jongno to the Hongdae area this year. The opening day program includes a flamboyant launching ceremony, parades, concerts, and afterparties at nearby clubs. There will be various tents, stalls, and booths offering information and souvenirs as well as musical programs, dancing, and fun throughout the entire day. Other satellite shows and relevant exhibitions will take place throughout Seoul until June 16.

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global

MUSEUMS Royal Court Embroidery National Palace Museum of Korea Jun 25–Sep 1 Free T. 02-3701-7500 www.gogung.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]

Art of Islamic Civilization National Museum of Korea Jul 2–Oct 20 Free T. 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Cheongnyangni Cheong Gye Cheon Museum Thru Jul 21 Free T. 02-2286-3406 www.cgcm.go.kr [ Map 5 D1]

The Memory of Fabric Kyungwoon Museum Thru Jul 29 Free

T. 02-3463-1336 www.kwmuseum.net Gaepo Station 개포역 (Bundang Line), Exit 7

Science Show The Body War Memorial of Korea Thru Mar 2, 2014 Adults: KRW 12,000, Children: KRW 10,000 T. 070-7539-6916 www.scienceshow.co.kr [ Map 8 A3]

CLASSICAL MUSIC 2013 Daniil Trifonov Piano Recital IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun 11–12, 8pm KRW 40,000–80,000 T. 02-541-3183 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus no. 4429.

Danilo Rea & Flavio Boltro Duo—Aria, Jazz and Church The Anglican Church of Korea Jun 13, 8pm

R: KRW 70,000, S: KRW 50,000 T. 02-941-1150 City Hall Station 시청역 (Line 1, 2), Exit 3

Anne-Sophie Mutter & Mutter’s Virtuosi Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun 14, 8pm KRW 50,000–180,000 T. 1577-5266, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus no. 4429.

Sunwook Kim—Beethoven’s Complete 32 Piano Sonatas (no. 22-26) LG Arts Center Jun 20, 8pm KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 9 C2]

SAC University Orchestra Festival Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun 22–27 T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부

터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to

shuttle bus, or green bus no. 4429.

Royal Philharmonic Orchestra & Charles Dutoit Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun 29, 7pm KRW 50,000–250,000 T. 1577-5266, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus no. 4429.

DANCE Busan International Dance Festival Haeundae Beach and Busan Cultural Center, Busan May 31–Jun 4 Free T. 051-868-7881, http://bidf.kr The KTX express train takes you from Seoul Station to Busan in under three hours.

The 3rd Ballet Festival Korea Seoul Arts Center Jun 1–Jul 13 KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-580-1300, www.bafeko.com

Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus no. 4429.

8th Physical Theatre Festival in Seoul 2013 Daehangno Arts Theater Jun 25–Jul 7 KRW 25,000 T. 02-764-7462 www.physicaltheater.co.kr Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 2

Korean National Ballet–Tchaikovsky Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Jun 28–30 KRW 5,000–80,000 T. 02-587-6181, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus no. 4429.

MUSICALS T Musical Hedwig Baekam Art Hall Jun 8–Sep 8 R: KRW 66,000, S: KRW 55,000 T. 02-3485-8700 www.shownote.com [ Map 9 D2]

T The Musical, Monte Cristo Chungmu Art Hall Jun 7–Aug 4 KRW 50,000–130,000 T. 02-6391-6333 www.musicalmonte.com [ Map 5 D2]

T A Tale of Two Cities, the Musical Charlotte Theater Jun 21–Aug 11 KRW 60,000–130,000 T. 1577-3363 www.twocities.co.kr [ Map 10 ]

T Broadway Musical, 42nd Street D Cube Art Center Thru Jun 30 KRW 50,000–120,000 T. 1588-0688 www.42ndstreet.co.kr Sindorim Station 신도림역 (Line 1, 2), Exit 1

THEATER The 6th Jeju Haevichi Arts Festvial

ULTRA KOREA 2013 T Seoul Olympic Stadium Complex Jun 14–15 KRW 110,000–200,000 Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6, 7

www.umfkorea.com

Ultra Korea 2013, an Asian version of the Miami-based Ultra Music Festival, will open June 14–15 at the Olympic Stadium Complex, promising to offer a site for a mammoth electronic dance get-together. Armin van Buuren, Avicii, and Afrojack are only some of the A-list acts who will headline the event with their fist-pumping and electrifying house music. Eight new teams have recently been recruited from leading clubs based in Korea, Japan, China, and Indonesia, adding more of an Asian flavor to the show. The premiere of Kryoman’s robotic DJ set in Korea is bound to steal the limelight.

DISCOUNT

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COUPONS

Don’t miss out on our special coupons exclusively for overseas visitors! Enjoy endless savings!

10% BUSINESS TYPE: NAIL

Manicures & Pedicures: 10% discount

MUSE IN CITY T 88 Lawn Plaza (88 Jandi Madang), Olympic Park Jun 15 KRW 132,000 http://muse-incity.com Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

2,000 won Discount BUSINESS TYPE: SPA 2,000 won discount on entry

T. 02-3141-3488

Muse in City 2013 will take place at Olympic Park on June 15, featuring only female musicians from Korea and abroad. With no discrimination in terms of musical genres represented, the festival seeks to showcase the wide musical spectrum that women musicians are upholding. Its international lineup includes Australian pop act Lenka, Japanese-Brazilian bossa nova singer Lisa Ono and Irish singer-songwriter Lisa Hannigan.

Korean acts on the roster are Han Hee-jung, Yozoh and Taru, who have risen to prominence in the local club scene around the Hongdae area.

10% BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC

10% discount on all items + Free herbal tea

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC

5% discount on purchases of 50,000 won or more 10% discount on purchases of 100,000 won or more

RAINBOW ISLAND FESTIVAL T

5% BUSINESS TYPE: POTTERY 5% off household pottery

Namiseom Island Jun 7–9 KRW 88,000–143,000 www.rainbowfestival.co.kr Gapyeong Namiseom Station 가평 남이섬역 (ITX or Gyeongchun Line)

The Rainbow Island 2013 Music & Camping Festival will return June 7–9, showcasing British band Travis along with top-tier Korean bands and artists like Clazziquai, Idiotape, Beenzino, Jung-gi-go, Taru, Park Sae-byul, GOGOSTAR, and Raspberry Field. The main draw of this festival is its riverside location, allowing patrons to camp and relax while listening to the riveting sounds of the live acts.

In particular, Clazziquai has garnered positive reviews for their house- and lounge-based soft tunes, making their sophisticated electro music more familiar to the Korean audience.

10% off accessories

· Product categories: Computers & tablets / Cameras / Mobile phones / Hi-Tech audio & speakers / Accessories / Apple devices

· Period of validity: June 1 ~ 30, 2013 · This coupon cannot be used in combination with other promotions. · This coupon cannot be used to purchase accessories made by Apple. www.concierge.co.kr

5%

BOOKSHOP

BUSINESS TYPE: BOOK STORE [See p.5] 5% off all books * 02-734-9539

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: KOREAN TRADITIONAL SNACK

10% discount. *Other discount coupons cannot be used at the same time

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

10% BUSINESS TYPE: RESTAURANT

Jeju Haevichi Hotel and other venues in Jeju Jun 3–5 T. 02-586-1966, www.jhaf.or.kr Korean Air, Asiana, Jin Air, T'way, and Jeju Air all fly to Jeju-do several times a day from Seoul's Gimpo Airport. The flight takes about 1 hour.

CONCERTS Inger Marie Olympus Hall May 26, 5pm R: KRW 60,000, S: KRW 40,000 T. 02-941-1150 Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), Exit 7 and transfer to bus no. 3412.

Strawberry X-treme Festival Uniqlo AX Jun 13–16 KRW 33,000 T. 02-3496-4293 www.mog.kr Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

T 2013 Ansan Valley Rock Festival (w/ Cure, NIN, My Bloody Valentine,

Foals, The XX, Yellowcard) Daebu Sea Breeze Theme Park, Ansan-si, Gyeonggi-do Jul 26–28 3-day pass: KRW 260,000 T. 1588-0688 www.valleyrockfestival.com Ansan Station 안산역 (Line 4), Exit 1 or Jungang Station 중앙역 (Line 4), Exit 1. Cross the road and transfer to bus no. 123.

2013 Jisan World Rock Festival (w/ Jamiroquai, Placebo) Jisan Forest Resort, Icheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Aug 2–4 3-day pass: KRW 250,000 T. 02-644-1200 www.jisanworldrockfestival.com Take a bus from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Icheon. Transfer to bus no. 12 and get off at Jisan Mart.

2013 Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival (w/ Fall Out Boy, Skid Row, Story Of The Year) Incheon Songdo Aug 2–4 3-day pass: KRW 165,000 T. 02-3775-1588 www.pentaportrock.com

International Business District Station 국제업무지구역 (Incheon Line)

T Super!Sonic 2013 (w/ Pet Shop Boys, Cho Yong-pil, Two Door Cinema Club) Olympic Park Aug 14–16 2-day pass: KRW 176,000 T. 02-6002-7577 (ext. 8) www.supersonickorea.com Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

City Break (w/ Metallica, Muse) Jamsil Sports Complex Aug 17–18, 1pm–11pm 2-day pass: KRW 250,000 T. 02-332-3277 http://citybreak.superseries.kr Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

KOREAN MUSIC Museum! Sing and Dance National Museum of Korean Contemporary History Every Saturday thru Jun 15, 4pm–5pm

Free T. 02-3703-9245, www.much.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]

10% discount on all menu items

Arirang National Gugak Center Jun 26–30

BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE

S: KRW 30,000, A: KRW 20,000, B: KRW 10,000 T. 02-580-3300, www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to maeul bus no. Seocho 12 or green bus no. 4429.

KOREAN THEATER T World Beat VINARI VINARI Theater, Cine Core Thru Jul 31 KRW 40,000–60,000 www.worldbeatvinari.com [ Map 2 D4]

ART EXHIBITIONS

10% 10% discount on all seats *Please make a reservation on the official ‘Miso’ website or by phone at least 3 days before the performance. *When payment is made on the spot after reservation, only people who present the coupon can avail themselves of the discount.

5%

BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE 5% discount on on-the-door ticket sales

Admission for 10,000 won per person BUSINESS TYPE: EXHIBITION, EXPERIENCE

Valid for adults and children in groups of up to four people, until June 30

5%

BUSINESS TYPE: CULINARY TOURS & COOKING CLASSES 10% discount

World Press Photo 2013 Photography

V-Gallery, Seoul Arts Center Jun 5–Jul 3

Maps & guides Map 1 GWANGHWAMUN AREA

The Gwanghwamun area, named for the landmark gate that marks the entrance of historic Gyeongbokgung Palace, is Seoul’s “old” downtown and where you’ll find Seoul’s enchanting royal palaces as well as other historical and cultural sites, such as Insa-dong, Bukchon, and Jeong-dong.

TIP A

Lost?

If you’re lost, seek out a nearby Tourist Information Center (marked on our Maps & Guides) or one of the helpful tourist information guides, easily recognized by their red uniforms with an “i” of them.

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C

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Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Samcheong-dong

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METRO Line 1

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Line 8

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Line 2

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Line 9

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Line 3

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Bundang Line

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Line 4

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Jungang Line

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Line 5

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Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

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Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

Tongin Market Seochon

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum

s all W

1

Tosokchon

Sajik Park

Gyeongbokgung Stn.

Sungkok Art Museum

IP&I www.ipidc.co.kr C2 02-735-1135 Change your smile in a single day

M

Dongnimmun Stn.

3 3

Gwanghwamunjip 5 Ilpumdang

Seoul Museum of History

Independence Gate

Indie Space

Kumho Art Hall Gwanghwamun Stn. M Dongwha Duty Free Shop Bibigo Cine Cube

Gyeonghuigung Palace

Cinema Jeong-dong (Music Show Wedding) 6

Vabien Suites

4

Jonggak Stn.

Jongno 3-ga Stn.

YP Books Cine Core

Cheonggyecheon Stream

City Hall

Euljiro 3-ga Stn. M

MM

Euljiro 1-ga Stn.

Seoul Plaza City Hall Stn. M M

Myungbo Art Hall

The Plaza

Myeong-dong

Ohyangjokbal Samujeong Seosomun Apartments

EXPLORING GWANGHWAMUN 10:00 am

The Gwanghwamun area’s biggest attractions are its royal palaces. Located right at the end of Gwanghwamun Square B2, Gyeongbokgung Palace B2 is the most monumental and probably the easiest to visit and explore. To experience the epitome of Korean traditional architecture, though, head to Changdeokgung Palace D2 , with its spectacular, UNESCO-registered gardens, the most beautiful in Korea.

Plan A Insa-dong/Bukchon

M

Danseongsa M M

The British Embassy

Seoul Museum of Art

6

M

Neungna Jongno Bapsang Tower (Top Cloud)Tapgol Park

Seoul Global Center

Deoksugung Palace

Restaurants & Bars

Lunch

Nagwon Arcade

4 Shinhan Bank

Jeong-dong

Seodaemun Stn. M

Bringing together some of Korea’s top musical talent, Music Show Wedding is a comic tale told in the universal language— music.

Royal palaces

Insa-dong Jogyesa Temple

Kyobo Cheongjinok Book Centre Ilmin Museum of Art

Jongmyo Shrine

Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Cheonggye Plaza

National Art Museum, Deoksugung

CHONGDONG THEATER (MISO)

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Delicious Japanese shabu shabu and sukiyaki hot pot dishes made using only the finest quality, freshest ingredients

Music Show Wedding B3 02-736-8289

Seoul City Tour Bus

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The first branch in Korea exclusively for international residents

Ilpumdang B3 02-733-4949

Embassy of the United States KT Olleh Square

Secure and comfortable accommodation with inspiring views of Gyeongbokgung. www.somerset.com

www.shinhan.com Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center

Ssamziegil

Gwanghwamun Square

Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Authentic German cuisine in the heart of Seoul

Anguk Stn.

3

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History

Changdeokgung Palace

M

Somerset 1 Palace Seoul 2

M

New York Wholistic Care

Bärlin C2 02-722-5622

Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center B3 02-773-3131

Bukchon Art Hall National Palace Museum of Korea (Gogungddurak) Seoul Selection Bookshop Gwanghwamun

Hwanghakjeong (Archery Practice Site)

2

Changgyeonggung Palace

Jeongdok Public Library Gyeongbokgung Palace

s es

2

Somerset Palace Seoul C2 02-6730-8888

Bukchon Hanok Village

National Folk Museum

tr or lF ou Se

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01:00 pm

of galleries, workshops, antique stores, teahouses and Korean restaurants. For a truly memorable experience, though, spend your afternoon exploring the quaint alleyways of the Bukchon neighborhood (see Map 3 ), home to Seoul’s largest collection of Korean-style hanok homes.

Museums & Galleries

Hotels

In the evening, stop by Gwanghwamun Square B2 , which is lit up at night. The area around the square is one of Seoul’s most interesting, with palaces, museums, performing arts venues and shops.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Plan B Jeong-dong

02:00pm

Another neighborhood worth exploring is Jeong-dong B4, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, where you’ll find lovely old churches, schools and diplomatic compounds.

Also part of Jeong-dong is fascinating Deoksugung Palace B4, with its eclectic Korean and Western architecture.

02:00pm

Many international visitors head to Insadong (see Map 2 ), a bustling neighborhood

Shops

Dinner Gwanghwamun Square

Bibigo B4 (T. 02-730-7423) Well-regarded bibimbap chain Bibigo offers several variants of the bibimbap variations along with a variety of tapas dishes. You can choose the dish, type of rice, toppings and sauce.

Top Cloud C3 (T. 02-2230-3001) Located at the top of the distinctive Jongno Tower, this Western restaurant is better known for its outstanding views.

Clubs & Theaters

Etc.

Coupon Affiliates

fare, too, including a mushroom and noodle stew.

Gwanghwamunjip B3 (T. 02-739-7737) One of the most famous kimchi stew (gimchi jjigae) restaurants in the area.

Ohyangjokbal B4 (T. 02-753-4755) Some of the best jokbal (boiled pig’s trotters) in Seoul. Comes with rice-cake soup, too! Near Seoul City Hall.

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo Map 2, A3 (T. 02-738-1769) Barbecue-broiled eel and pork chitterlings in a retro interior. Near Jonggak Station (Line 1).

Cheongjinok C3 (T. 02-735-1690) They’ve been doing haejangguk (Korean hangover soup) since 1937. First floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

05:30 pm

Samujeong B4 (T. 02-755-8044)

Tosokchon B2 (T. 02-737-7444)

07:30 pm

This Korean restaurant in front of Seoul City Hall has been serving a mean bulgogi since the 1960s. They also do some other good Korean

Seoul’s best-known purveyor of samgyetang (ginseng-chicken soup). Always full. Not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.

45 Map 2 INSA-DONG

Once known (for reasons unknown) as “Mary’s Alley,” Insa-dong started off as an alley of antique dealers and is now one one of Seoul’s major centers of Korean traditional art and culture.

A

B

C

tn.

uk S

Ang

Bukchon

Doriking

1

2

Chon

Ma Vie

Korea Pass The Korea Tourism Organization offers Korea Pass, a prepaid card that offers not only plenty of benefits at tourism-related sites, but can also be used as a transportation card.

See www.koreapass.or.kr for details.

Soo-Woon-HoeKwan

Sagwanamu

Miss Lee Café Gana Art Space

TIP

D

Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Cheondogyo Central Temple

The Moon Bird Thinks of the Moon Only

ACCOMMODATION

Ikseon-dong

Hotel the Sunbee B2 (T. 02-730-3451)

Tobang Min's Club Sin Yetchatjip

2

Jogyesa Temple (Central Buddhist Museum)

Balwoo Gongyang (5F)

OSULLOC Gallery Artside

Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art (Dawon) Crown Hotel

Sudo Pharmacy

Sanchon Dubu Maeul

Dolsilnai

Fraser Suites

Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul

Hotel Aventree Jongno

Sun Gallery Gong Art Space La Mer gil a hw Tae

Hanuso

Tea Museum

Dolsilnai

VOOK's Gallery

Ma Vie B1 02-722-2775

3

Jilkyungyee C2 02-734-5934

Nami Island Culture Tour Information

If you want to know about Korea's distinctive culture, try on an outfit

by Jilkyungyee. You'll feel it from head to toe.

Naminsa Open Theater 4

Seung Dong Presbyterian Church

Experience culture through cuisine...

Ongo Food Communication D2 02-3466-1607

Experience culture through cuisine...

Jongno Tower (Top Cloud 33F)

Tapgol Park

Insa-dong Culture Plaza

Bandi & Luni's IT'S SKIN

You can arrange a stay at a Buddhist temple.

2

Elegant and distinctive handmade accessories that stand out from the usual high street crowd - but at affordable prices.

Sihwadam

4

Templestay Information Center A2 02-2031-2000

IT'S SKIN

Seoul Art Center

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo

Tteuran Nagwon Arcade (4F, Cinematheque / Seoul Art Cinema)

National Souvenir Center

g on n a-d tio Ins rsec e Int

Hotel SunBee

Center Mark Hotel

1

Yetchatjip (2F)

3 Jilkyungyee

3

4 O'NGO

Park Yeong-suk Yo Tongin Store

Haejeong Hospital

Beoldeok Kalguksu/ Nolboo Budaejjigae & Cheolpangui

Clean and comfortable accommodations in the Insa-dong area. Western and Korean-style rooms available.

Gung

Ssamzigil

Insa Art Center Mokin Gallery Busan Sikdang

1

Gyo-dong Elementary School

YMCA

We are a culinary school and culinary tour company that offers Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours in English or Japanese. Through our tours and cooking classes you will experience the real, local flavors of Seoul and you will gain an insider’s perspective to Korean culture. Private and group classes and tours are available.

Golbal Stores

Restaurants & Bars

Shops

ongofood@ongofood.com

6

Galleries tour

10:00 am

Insa-dong is comprised of one main street and the alleyways that branch off from it.

Along the main street you’ll find most of Insa-dong’s galleries and shops, while the restaurants and teahouses can be found in the alleyways. Major galleries to check out are the Kyung-in Museum of Art C2 (lovely teahouse here, too), Insa Art Center B2, Kong Gallery B3, VOOK’s Gallery C3 (great if you like books) and the fascinating Mokin Gallery B3, dedicated to Korean totemism.

Lunch

Hotels

Clubs & Theaters

In an alley just off the main street is historic Seung Dong Presbyterian Church C3 (1902), and in another is the grand, Art Nouveau central temple of Cheondogyo C1 (1921), an indigenous Korean faith. Near Insa-dong are Unhyeonggung Palace D1 , a gorgeous 19th century Korean villa well worth exploring, and Tapgol Park D4, Seoul’s first Westernstyle park.

Nagwon Arcade

04:00pm

Nagwon Arcade D2 is Asia’s largest collection of musical instrument shops. The nearby restaurants are cheap but good.

Etc.

Coupon Affiliates

A neighborhood with a neighborhood, Ssamzigil B2 is a culture and shopping complex comprised of four floors of stores, restaurants and workshops. It’s home to about 70 shops in all. Recommended ones include Galpi (books), Sky Lake (cosmetics made with Korean traditional herbs), Chinjeolhan Hyeonja-ssi (Korean cuisine/ broiled fish) and Bukchon Sonmandu (Korean dumplings). In the basement there is also a branch of Gogung, the famed Jeonju bibimbap restaurant.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Specializing in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine

Dinner

05:30 pm

Ssamzigil

07:00 pm

Sanchon C2 (T. 02-735-0312)

02:00pm

dance performances in the evening.

Min’s Club C1 (T. 02-733-2966) Fusion is the name of the game here, both in terms of the architecture (a fusion hanok from the 1930s) and the cuisine (fusion dishes mixing Korean and Western flavors).

Toetmaru Doenjang Yesul C2 (T. 02-739-5683) Run by poet/photographer Park Jung-sik, this lively place specializes in gang doenjang, a very thick, rich soy bean paste stew.

Dubu Maeul C2 (T. 02-735-9996)

Balwoogongyang A2 (T. 02-2031-2081)

12:30 pm

Exploring Insa-dong’s past Insa-dong has its fair share of history, too.

Jump D4 02-722-3995 Comic Martial Arts Performance

Museums & Galleries

EXPLORING INSA-DONG

ongofood@ongofood.com

6

(JUMP)

Bosingak Belfry

Seoul Global Center (5F)

— Contact us — tel. 02.3466.1607 www.ongofood.com

— Contact us — tel. 02.3466.1607 www.ongofood.com

KT Global Store

Cine Core YP Books

KT Global Store C4 02-733-0267

Need a cell phone, or help with the one you've got? Knowledgeale and friendly English speaking representatives at the KT Global Stores are here to help.

5

Jonggak Stn.

We are a culinary school and culinary tour company that offers Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours in English or Japanese. Through our tours and cooking classes you will experience the real, local flavors of Seoul and you will gain an insider’s perspective to Korean culture. Private and group classes and tours are available.

5

Kumkang

Jewelry Market

Cooking Classes & Culinary Tours

Run by a Buddhist monk and expert in Korean Buddhist cuisine, this famed eatery does great vegetarian cuisine, with Korean traditional

The taste of Korean traditional homemade tofu and pungent, healthy cheonggukjang soybean stew.

Gung B2 (T. 02-733-9240) An Insa-dong institution for 70 years, this place specializes in Kaesong-style mandu (dumpling) stew. Good, hearty eating that’s popular with locals and international visitors alike.