SEOUL (December 2013)

helicopter tourism G a n g h wa d o S u n s e t V i l l a g e

K e r r y

H u d s o n

traditional G i f t

S h o p p i n g

Markets i n

K o r e a

G o i n gs - O n A r o u n d T o w n

dECEMBER 2013

T r av e l

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Culture

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Maps

ISSUE NO. 125

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ISSN: 1599-9963

Contents NO. 125

10 Seoul basics 12 Exploring Seoul

Seoul from Above 14 Seoul travel bits 16 Travel

Romantic Sunsets

p12

18 Korea travel bits 20

History walks

Go Hui-dong House 21

Seoul sub→urban

Samgakji Station 22

p20

Dining & nightlife

Best Traditional Markets in Seoul 25

Child of the Eagle

광고 문의

Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

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T r a v e l

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C u l t u r e

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Shopping

M a p s

No-haggle pricing 광고가는 정찰제입니다

The Giving Technique 28

Interview

Novelist Kerry Hudson

To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

• 30

Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more

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Expat community page

정기구독 안내

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Maps & guides

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Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Kim Hansol Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designer Cynthia Fernández Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Park Mina, Min Jae-won Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor D. Peter Kim Contributors Daniel Gray Merissa Quek Robert J. Fouser Ben Jackson John Steele

| Deanne Nguyen | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Loren Cotter

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Seoul Selection

December 2013 About the Cover Model Lee Jin-seon in Myeong-dong.

Seoul stories

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December at a glance

suggested seoul itineraries Day 1

2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] .

Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ].

Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest.

Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

See Seoul from Above

New helicopter tours let you see Seoul as you’ve never seen it before. >p12–13

Day 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ].

Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1].

Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Day 1

3 days / 2 nights Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2].

See the Last Sunset of 2013 Ganghwado’s Sunset Village is the perfect place to do it. >p16-17

Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong.

Discover Seoul’s Markets

Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Traditional markets are a great place to get fed on the cheap. >p22-23

Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Party like there’s no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdamdong [ Map 11 C2].

Day 2 Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park.

Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch.

Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ], including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2].

See the first Sunrise of 2014 Maryangpo, Jeongdongjin and Busan are inspiring places to welcome in the new year. >p18-19

Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats.

Get Something for the Ones You Love December is the season of giving. SEOUL tells you where to shop. >p26-27

Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].

Day 3 Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3].

Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3].

Party Like It’s 2014!

Warm Up in a Hanok

The Bosingak Bell is where Seoulites ring in the new year. >p15

Relax at Woorijip Guesthouse, a cozy Bukchon guest house. >p39

Exploring seoul

Seoul from Above Blue Air’s helicopter tours let you see the city as you’ve never seen it before Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Y

ou haven’t really seen Seoul until you’ve seen it from the cabin of a helicopter.

Small-scale Korean airline Blue Air’s newly launched helicopter tours over the Hangang River are not especially long—the longest trip to Yeouido takes just 15 minutes. But what it lacks in time, it makes up for in breathtaking views that make these rides more than worth the price of admission.

63 Building, Yeouido and Hangang River

13 Taking to the skies Armed with experience running helicopter tours in Yeosu and Jejudo, Blue Air began its tour in October. Due to the no-fly zone that covers most of northern half of Seoul, tours follow the scenic Hangang River, with some portions conducted over Yeouido, Gangnam, Jamsil and other points south of the river. This gives you an opportunity to see—from about 300 meters up—some of Seoul’s most iconic sights, including the Hangang bridges, the 63 Building, the National Assembly, COEX and Olympic Stadium.

Blue Air operates an American-made Robinson R44 helicopter, a light, four-seat helicopter widely used by tour operators worldwide.

While small, the craft’s bubble canopy allows for unobstructed, panoramic views of the surroundings. For the best views, try to get the shotgun seat—it’s almost like you’re suspended above the city in a glass bubble. Which, for all intents and purposes, you are.

To Yeouido and back This writer took the 15-minute tour to Yeouido, often called “Seoul’s Manhattan” due to its iconic skyscrapers. For a two-person tour, this will set you back KRW 200,000 per person, but if you bring a third friend, it comes down to KRW 150,000 per person.

The tour begins at the public heliport at Jamsil Hangang Park— there’s a small Blue Air office there where you confirm your reservation or sign up for a tour if you have no prior reservation.

Once the paperwork is out of the way, you make your way to the pad, climb into the helicopter and get strapped in. Then it’s time to take off.

Gently climbing as you go, your pilot takes you along the Hangang River, providing you with nearly top-down views of the bridges and—if the weather cooperates—fantastic views of Mt. Namsan and other landmarks further afield. Through your headset, the pilot will dutifully point out all the scenic spots along the way, although it’s just as fun to listen to the radio chatter with nearby control towers. The ride is surprisingly smooth—this writer, who can’t do even the one-hour flight to Jejudo without pharmaceutical assistance, felt quite at ease throughout.

The highlight of the flight come when you reach Yeouido. The views of the landmark skyscrapers, National Assembly Building and Seoul Marina are jaw-dropping, especially as you bank around the west end of Yeouido—as the craft tilts towards the passenger side, you can look almost straight down on Seoul’s Manhattan. If the sun is right, the 63 Building will glow reddish gold as you pass it.

The trip back follows along the southern end of Yeouido—again, providing marvelous views of the the district’s skyscrapers. Past Yeouido, you skirt the edge of Seoul National Cemetery—you don’t get a feel for how vast the place is until you’ve seen it from above.

Following the Hangang River again, you get views of Olympic Stadium and the rest of Jamsil Sports Complex before the tour ends with a gentle landing at Jamsil Hangang Park.

Fares are as follows: Jamsil Course (KRW 55,000 per person for three-person tours, KRW 70,000 for two-person tours), COEX Course (KRW 70,000 per person for three-person tours, KRW 100,000 for two-person tours), Gwangnaru Course (KRW 100,000 for three-person tours, KRW 140,000 for two-person tours), Yeouido Course (KRW 150,000 for three-person tours, KRW 200,000 for two-person tours). For the independently wealthy, there are 30-minute tours to the Paldang Dam, too (KRW 900,000). Flights begin at the helicopter pad in Jamsil, near the boat pier. For more information, call T. 1899-2679 or visit Blue Airlines’ homepage at www.blueairlines. co.kr.

Jamsil Hangang Park (where the helipad is located) is a 10-minute walk from Sports Complex Station, Line 2.

Dining & nightlife

The Best Traditional Markets in Seoul

Written by Daniel Gray

In Korea, some of the most interesting and popular things to see are the traditional markets. Every city has them and some of the country towns and cities will have a weekly or biweekly market in the city squares where you can get the freshest produce, livestock, and other things you get direct from the farmer instead of some middleman. It is as fresh as it gets. The sheer cornucopia of products Korea has to offer will amaze you. The best part is that all the markets have great food stalls where you can eat at.

Here are some of the markets you should check out if you come to Seoul.

Near Daechi Station

Eunma Market

대치동 은마시장

My favorite Seoul market is Eunma Market near Daechi Station. Built around the late 1970’s this market supplies most of the affluent Gangnam people who live in the nearby Eunma Apartments with their food. Because many people work these days, many restaurants and food stalls make ready-made meals so busy families can buy a soup, pick out a variety of side dishes and then just make rice at home and eat. It’s quick, simple, and healthy. They have some famous restaurants here, too, as well as famous kimchi dumplings, noodles, and pumpkin porridge. It has a number of the very best rice cake shops as well. I think what differentiates this market from others is that it is traditional, clean and modern. While many other markets in Korea struggle to survive, Eunma market seems to thrive. The food stalls are on the second floor. My favourite places to eat at here are Manna Tteokbokki which is famous for their assortment of tempura and spicy rice cake. There is a also a great steamed dumplings place that does tangy kimchi dumplings and black, red-bean stuffed bread. Probably the most famous place is the Eunma Calguksu restaurant that is always packed. Their menu is simple. You can get knife cut noodles (kalguksu), hand pulled dumplings (sujebi), or a mix of the two (seokkeoseo). It’s a hearty bowl and cheap (KRW 5,000). There is a spicy garnish on the side and some kimchi. It’s perfectly simple.

Eunma Market 대치동 은마시장 Monday-Saturday 8am–10pm Go out Daechi Station (Line 3) Exit 3

Gyeongdong Oriental Medicine Market

경동시장 Cheongnyangni area

This is the most traditional Korean market in Seoul. The place is overflowing with herbaceous smells such as cinnamon, liquorice, jujube, mugwort and ginseng. The streets are filled with shops with wonderfully bizarre oriental ingredients such as dried milkvetch root, deer antlers, turtle shells and even dried lizards. Walking through the oriental medicine market reminds me of the witch’s cauldron scene in Hamlet. On the food market side, you’ll find stall after stall of the freshest Korean fruits, vegetables, nuts, fermented bean pastes and sauces, dried marine products, seafood and meat. This market is dedicated to the old Korean belief that food is medicine, so you’ll get a glimpse into the past. Now if you are hungry, in the basement of the food market side there are food stalls in the back. They serve simple lunches such as soups, stews and bibimbap. My favorite

Dongdaemun area

is Jeonju Shikdang (전주식당) because the chef makes all of her foods from scratch and she sources products from the city of Jeonju. I would recommend her bibimbap or her sundaeguk (blood sausage soup). It’s not a fancy meal, but it sure is delicious.

Dondaemun's Food Alleys

동대문

The hectic fashion district of Dongdaemun needs fuel to keep everyone

Gyeongdong Oriental Market 경동시장 Oriental Market 9am–7pm, Traditional Food Market 4am–7pm Go out Jegi Station (Line 1), Exit 2.

clothed. Luckily, there are plenty of food stalls that specialise in Korean food. Down these alleys you'll find great fare such as grilled fish, chicken soup (dakhanmari) and even a few places serving dog (no, I don't mean hot dogs). The most famous places down the alley serve grilled fish such as mackerel, flounder (gajami), knife fish (kalchi), and corvina fish (gulpi).

There are a number of dakhanmari restaurants there as well. There are many “chicken-in-a-pot restaurants” but the two that are best known are Jinokkwa Halmae Dak and Wonjo Won Halmae Dakhanmari. In my opinion, I think both are very similar in taste but Wonjo Won Halmae has a slightly lighter broth and service is a tad nicer. Since Jinokkwa always has a long line out the door, Wonjo Won Halmae might not be a bad option.

Dondaemun's Food Alleys 동대문 10am–late Go out Dongdaemun Station (Line 1), Exit 9 and walk about 200 meters. Make a left after the IBK bank. Walk about 30 meters and then make a right into the alley or use this address as a reference: Jongno-gu Jongno 5(o)-ga 265-22

Dining & nightlife Cafés, Bars & Clubs

GANGNAM LEARNS THE TRUE MEANING OF STYLE Gyeongnidan smash-hit Craftworks Taphouse opens branch near Gangnam Station Written by Ben Jackson Photographs courtesy of Dylan Goldby

I

t takes a lot to get some northern Seoul dwellers south of the river to Gangnam. For the past three years, Craftworks Taphouse in Gyeongnidan, Itaewon has made the journey even more improbable with its outstanding selection of authentic Koreanbrewed beers. Why submit yourself to a long rush hour tube journey or a slow and expensive taxi ride when some of the best real ale in town was available north of the Hangang?

Well, now there's reason to make the trip— Craftworks Taphouse Gangnam is now open. Just a brisk march from Gangnam Station, it offers a powerful incentive to make the journey south, while providing hope for those actually located in Gangnam.

Stout. Each month sees a different guest ale join the list.

But though the beer will always be hard to beat as the star of the show, Craftworks Gangnam boasts a menu with plenty of distractions. Fresh South African house wines at KRW 8,000 a glass plus a range of international wines by the bottle reflect the fact that this branch is owned and run by sommeliers. Some 11 single malt whiskies are available by the glass, with prices beginning at KRW 12,000; those looking to knock back a few carefree shots can ask for Crown Royal, at KRW 8,000 a dram, Jameson or other options. A single malt bottle keeping service is also available. A list of 14 classic cocktails lurks further down the menu; consultation with the bartender may produce other possibilities.

Full restaurant menu

Seoul's most popular beers?

First things first: the outrageously popular selection of beers from Kapa Brewery that has driven Itaewon crazy for the past three years is on tap here too, with eight topographically titled brews ranging from Baekdusan Hefeweizen through Jirisan IPA to Seorak Oatmeal

Craftworks Gangnam, as its owners are keen to stress, is not an after-dinner drinking option with a smattering of pub food for extra calories. It's a full-blown restaurant in its own right, offering a wide selection of starters, soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches, mains, desserts and even a sub-menu of “pub grub,” underlining its gastronomic seriousness. In line with the Gangnam location and contemporary appetite for burgers with class, the burgers here might be described as premium and pricey, with “hormone-free organically produced Australian grass-fed beef, served on a toasted wholegrain ciabatta bun” providing the basis for various customizable variations starting from KRW 16,000.

Managerial recommendations include chicken wings with hot chipotle buffalo (KRW 14,000) or fresh mussels in spicy tomato sauce accompanied by Baekdusan hefeweizen (KRW 15,000 + 8,000) as starters, pomodoro pasta (KRW 16,000) as a main course, or a glass of Jirisan IPA (KRW 9,000) for those in search of pure beer class.

The service is impeccable, with highly trained staff

entering orders into an iPhone based system and placing each beer on its own specifically designed beer mat as it is served soon afterwards. The interior is elegant and restrained, with high and low tables seating up to 105 people in a gastropub-type ambience.

To be fair, Gangnam was not a beer desert before Craftworks touched down. Beer lovers already enjoyed a choice of watering holes such as Big Rock Brewery, Herzen Brau Bar and Oktoberfest. But the arrival of this Itaewon power-taphouse south of the river is welcome news for all those watching Seoul's beer culture as it continues to flourish.

Craftworks Taphouse now has four branches: Namsan (Gyeongnidan), Downtown (Euljiro 2-ga) and Gangnam in Seoul, and Pangyo in Bundang.

Gangnam area Crafthouse Taphouse 탑 하우스 4pm–1am www.craftworkstaphouse.com Gangnam Station, Line 2 and Sinbundang Line, Exit 11.

Turn right at Paris Baguette and head straight up the hill for 300m. Craftworks is on the left

Authentic German Cuisine in the Heart of Seoul

www.baerlin.co.kr e-mail info@baerlin.co.kr Tel 02 722 5622 fax 02 722 5623 Opening hours (Closed on Sunday) Mon.~ Fri. 11:30 a.m.~11:30 p.m. Sat. 11:30 a.m.~11:00 p.m.

N°85 Susong-dong Jongno-Gu Seoul Korea Somerset Palace 1F, Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6

Shopping

The Giving Technique New Approaches to Gift Shopping Written by Deanne Nguyen

“It’s the thought that counts.” It’s a platitude we coddle and console our friends with when they receive that left-field bowl of fakes lemons. Or the garden gnome family set. Or the bottle of clearly dated, possibly used perfume. Whatever the questionable gift, we empathize because we’ve been receivers ourselves; however the reality is that we are red-handed ourselves for giving out a last-minute gift or two. Or three. To avoid the fake “I love its,” here are some ways we can discretely, yet artfully gift-give.

For the kids Kids are picky, hands down, and with toys, it’s all a rabid fad, frothing up fast and quickly phasing out.

Unless you work with children or are a parent, keeping up with toy trends can be extremely cumbersome.

No need to bother, when the perfect gift for a niece or cousin lies not in what they like at the moment, but in what they could enjoy later. Investing in a child’s creative development or appealing to their future intellectual pursuits, then, is a far more sophisticated approach and the parents will surely be grateful.

Kyobo Books and Bandi & Lundi both have a great selection of books for children and this would be a great opportunity to encourage language learning at an early age. Books with games or crafts included do double duty on fun times ahead.

Insa-dong:

While souvenirs can be in poor taste (novelty t-shirts, coasters, and magnets to name a few) for those back home, a little cultural introduction is just the thing to widen a child’s world view. Skip the museum gift shops and scour the alleys of Insa-dong for traditional wooden Korean toys like the Paengi top and instruments like the Sogo, once tired from use, are still beautiful on their own as decorative pieces.

[ Map 2 ]

Branches of both book stores can be found at City Hall, Gangnam and other places. www.bandinlunis.com, www.kyobobook.co.kr

Goings-on around town Universal Ballet: The Nutcracker

PREVIEWs+

Universal Arts Center | Seoul Dec 20–31 Achasan station 아차산역 (Line 5) Exit 4

KRW 10,000–100,000

T. 070-7124-1740, www.uac.co.kr

“The Nutcracker” will return to the stage this yuletide season, performed by the Universal Ballet Company. They will perform the Mariinsky Theatre version of the dance production with choreography by Russian Choreographer Vasili Vainonen, which features a grand composition spiced with a hint of moderate Korean twists. It is a perfect Christmas gift for your loved ones. Each day features two sessions starting in the late afternoon and evening, respectively.

Seoul Independent Film Festival (SIFF) CGV Apgujeong / Indpendent Film House ‘INDIESPACE’, Seoul Nov 28–Dec 6 T. 02-362-9513, www.siff.or.kr KRW 6,000–40,000 Apgujeong Station 압구정역 (Line 3), Exit No.3 , Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit No.7 & 8

The 39th edition of the SIFF has finalized its program with 56 local films and 10 invitations from overseas. The domestic lineup was carefully selected out of 810 entries. Top honors, along with some KRW 5 million cash prizes, will go to the two local films which win the competition. The international program includes “Anatomy of a Paper Clip” directed by Akira Ikeda of Japan, “Best Little Whorehouse in Rochdale” directed by Ian Vernon of Britain, and “Frutvale Station” created by American director Ryan Coogler.

PSY Concert All Night Stand Olympic Park Gymnastics Gymnasium (First Gymnasium) Dec 20–24 T. 02-410-1114, www.olympicpark. co.kr/ KRW 77,000–165,000 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

Globe-trotting pop act from Korea, PSY will entertain fans through a series of latenight concerts on Dec 20 to 24 in Seoul. The concert will have the theme “All Night Stand–Gymnastics in the Moonlight,” and he is urging his fans to “exercise under the moon.” PSY has been known to always provide extraordinary concepts and high energy in his performances. The last concert he staged to release “Gentleman” was in April, which attracted around 50,000 people in attendance.

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global

MUSEUMS Hearing with the Eyes: 100 Items of Roman Opera Theater Costumes and Stage Designs Seoul Museum of History Thru Jan 5, 2014 Free/ T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr [ Map 1 A3]

Congo River, Art of Central Africa National Museum of Korea Thru Jan 19, 2014 Free T. 02-2077-9271, www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이 촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Science Show The Body War Memorial of Korea Thru Mar 2, 2014 Adults: KRW 12,000, Children: KRW 10,000 T. 070-7539-6916 www.scienceshow.co.kr [ Map 8 A3]

The Head House National Folk Museum of Korea Dec 4–Feb 17, 2014 TBA T. 02-3704-3114, www.nfm.go.kr [ Map 3 A2]

The Taoism in Korea: Deities and Immortals National Museum of Korea Dec 10–Mar 12,2014 T. 02-2077-9461, www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Classical Music The Twelve Irish Tenors Tour in Seoul Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 2 KRW 50,000–250,000 T. 02-2650-7481, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Christmas Cantata Sejong Grand Theater Dec 4–5 KRW 40,000–100,000 T. 070-7538-5105 http://www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

Kenny G with the Band & Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 6 KRW 99,000–220,000 T. 02-6292-9370, www.sac.or.kr

Nambu Bus Terminal Stationtt (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Clara Jumi Kang & Yeol Eum Son Duo Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 7 KRW 30,000–80,000 T. 1577-5266, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Canadian Brass Christmas Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 10 KRW 40,000–120,000 T. 02-599-5743, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

2013 Concert Opera La Boheme Concert Hall, Seongnam Art Center Dec 14 KRW 15,000–35,000 T. 02-2232-1148, www.snart.or.kr Imae Station 이매역 (Line Bundang), Exit 1

Les Petits Chanteurs a la Croix de Bois

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 22 KRW 33,000–110,000 T. 02-523-5391, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

2013 Christmas Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 25 KRW 30,000–120,000 T. 1577-5266, http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

2013 SAC New Year’s Eve Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Dec 31 KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

DANCE Winter Dream KB Haneul Youth Theater, National Theater of Korea Dec 24–29 KRW 30,000–50,000 T. 02-2280-4114~5

http://www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

MUSICALS The Musical Man of La Mancha Chungmu Art Hall Nov 19–Feb 09 KRW 60,000–130,000 T. 02-2230-6600, www.cmah.or.kr [ Map 5 D2]

The Musical Wicked Charlotte Theater Nov 22–Jan 26 KRW 60,000–140,000 T. 02-1644-0078 www.charlottetheater.co.kr [ Map 12 ]

Mamma Mia! Blue Square Musical Hall Nov 26–Mar 23 KRW 50,000–150,000 T. 02-544-1591 http://www.bluesquare.kr [ Map 9 B1]

The Musical Werther Seoul Arts Center, Towol Theater Dec 03–Jan 12 KRW 60,000–110,000 T. 02-580-1300, http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미

널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

The Musical Carmen LG Arts Center Dec 06–Feb 23 KRW 60,000–130,000 T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com [ Map 11 C3]

Theater Women Who Stole the War National Theater of Korea Thru Dec 8 T. 02-2280-4114 , www.ntck.or.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

Sister Mokran Doosan Art Center Thru Dec 29 KRW 30,000 T. 02-708-5001 www.doosanartcenter.com Jong-ro 5-ga Station 종로 5가 (Line 1), Exit 1

Lady Hong in the Palace National Theater of Korea Dec 14–29 T. 02-2280-4114~6, www.ntck.or.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

Maps & guides39 accomodation Woorijib Guesthouse 우리집게스트하우스 Woorijib is a traditional roof-tile house or hanok 한옥 that offers foreigners a good opportunity to experience traditional Korean lifestyle and culture at the heart of the Bukchon Hanok Village. This guesthouse has preserved Korea's traditional furnace and floor heating system. Without the bed, patrons spread their bedding materials on the floor to sleep. There are three rooms available for KRW 100,000 per night for two people, with KRW 20,000 charged for each additional person.

Breakfast is included, and free wi-fi service is provided.

T. 02-744-0536, www.wooriguest.com [ Map 3 D4]

Food/beverages Urban Garden, Hongdae 어반 가든 The Hongdae outlet of Italian gourmet restaurant Urban Garden has on special offer a sumptuous chicken barbecue as a lunch meal. Available between noon and 3pm every day, the lunch item comes in with a salad and coffee for KRW 16,000. Other standard dishes like Philly cheese steak sandwich and beef chili risotto are offered at KRW 9,000–12,000. Sitting across from the Seogyo-dong Cathedral in the vibrant youth district, the restaurant boasts a tranquil and secluded atmosphere amid a sea of hip-hop fashion stores, indie bars and clubs.

December

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’s PICKS OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

T. 02-333-8233, www.urbangarden.co.kr [ Map 7 B2].

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Shopping

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Swazi Candles 스와지켄들 At Swazi Candles, patrons can select from a great selection of beautiful handmade candles from Swaziland. Local artisans use the age-old trade bead technique perfected in the glass making city of Murano, Italy. This technique, known as “millefiore” or “thousand flowers,” was adapted by African candle makers.

Artisans design various patterns in the outer shell of the candle using a special hard wax veneer. It is also reusable, so you can enjoy their romantic glowing colors again and again. The hard wax veneer that forms the outer shell of the candle hardly melts when the candle is lit.

T. 02-2263-4931, http://blog.naver.com/afrikanstar

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Seoul’s old downtown

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Korean dessert café GaonGill (translated as “an honest way”), as its name implies, faithfully adheres to locally-grown quality food materials and fresh ingredients for its Koreanthemed fusion menu offering. Its trademark menu item is bingsu (shaved ice flake soaked in sweetened milk) which is topped with sweetened red bean porridge and various nuts or uses sujeonggwa (traditional persimmon punch) instead of condensed milk. GaonGill serves a range of creative beverages, including hongsi (ripe persimmon) yogurt latte, jujube latte and Korean tangerine-ade. Its tasteful desserts like chaltteok (rice cake) brownies and steamed rice cakes with fluffy cream will placate the taste buds.

T. 02-538-0442, www.gaongill.com Hyehwa Station 혜화역(Line 4), Exit 4. Walk up a block.

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon

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Myeong-dong

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Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

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Hangangjin Quickly turning itself into the trendiest spot in town

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Yeouido The Manhattan of Seoul

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Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s hippest college town areas

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet Map

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

Food/beverages GaonGill

Insa-dong A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

[ Map 4 D4].

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Gwanghwamun Area

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

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Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond