SEOUL (October 2013) by Seoul Selection

S e o u l B

F e s t i v a l s

O h E u n & C h r i s Ro h

S e o u l’ s C h i c k e n D e l i g h t s B

Goings-On Around Town

October 2013

T r av e l

Culture

Maps

ISSUE NO. 123

￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

Contents NO. 123

12 Exploring Seoul

Festival Time 16 Seoul travel bits 18 Gangnam Spotlight

Passion and Noblesse Oblige 20 Travel

p24

Busan 22 Korea travel bits 24

History walks

Rediscovering the Energy of Jongno-2ga 25

Seoul sub→urban

Seonyudo Station p12

Seoul stories

Seokpajeong and Seokparang 28

광고 문의 T r a v e l

C u l t u r e

Dining & nightlife

Dak, Dak, Dak: The Chicken in Korea

M a p s

No-haggle pricing

Seoul of zen & Oriental medicine

Healing Your Soul and Body 32

광고가는 정찰제입니다

Shopping

To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

Nothing Says Fall Better Than a Few Good Books 34

Interview

Poet Oh Eun and Designer Chris Roh

•

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Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more

Expat community page 44

Maps & guides

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Seoul Selection

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@seoulselection T r a v e l

C u l t u r e

M a p s

October 2013 About the Cover Seoul Selection’s Daisy Larios (left) and Shin Yesol (right) in front of Samcheong-dong’s Wood Side Coffee. Photographed by Robert Koehler Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Kim Hansol Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Cynthia Fernández Designer Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor Daisy Larios Contributors Daniel Gray Merissa Quek Robert J. Fouser Daisy Larios Peter DeMarco

Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise —without the written consent of the publishers. SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (book@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space. Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul. For details, see http://magazine.seoulselection.com.

october at a glance

suggested seoul itineraries Day 1

2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] . Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ]. Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest. Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ]. Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Festival Time

Seoul finds many ways to celebrate in October. >p12–15

* There are some copies you can read for free.

Where’s

Where to pick up SEOUL for FREE 1. Branches of SEOUL magazine advertisers: Nanta Theater, Korea International School, Shinhan Bank, W Hotel, SOMERSET PALACE, IP&I, Astoria Hotel, Baerlin, Dongguk University International Seon Center, New York Wholistic Care, UBA Breast Clinic, Hair & Joy Hair Salon, Zen Hair Salon, Tartine, Between, Etonne Café, Concierge, Korea House, Dragon Hill Spa, On the Border, Dwight School, Seoul International School, Seoul Foreign School, The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History

Where to purchase SEOUL 1. Seoul Selection’s off- and on-line bookshops (www.seoulselection.com) 2. Major bookstores such as Kyobo Book Centre, YP Books and Bandi & Luni’s Bookstore 3. The following US military bases: Yongsan, Osan, Camp Humphreys and Camp Casey

2. Tourist Information Centers in Seoul 3. Hotels & serviced residences: Chosun hotel, THE SHILLA SEOUL, JW Marriott Hotel Seoul, Seokyo Hotel, Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts, Park Hyatt, Imperial Palace Hotel, Banyan Tree, Ritzcarlton Seoul, Lotte City Hotel, Grand Intercontinental Hotel Seoul, Gogung Hotel, Best Western Primier Hotel Kukdo, Lexington Hotel, Hotel Riviera, Grand Ambassador Seoul, Ibis Seoul Ambassador hotel, Incheon Airport Hotel, Koreana Hotel, Hotel Sunbee, Prima Hotel, Hotel Sevilla Incheon Airport, Hillside, Marriott Residence, Vabien Seoul, Vabien Suite, Fraser Place Central Seoul, Fraser Suites, Co-op Residence, Seoul Residence, Oak Wood Premier Coex Center, Stanford Hotel, Koryo Hotel, Best Western Gangnam Hotel, Ellui Hotel, Travellers A Hostel, Fox Hotel 4. Major cafés and restaurants: All Starbucks, Café Nescafé branches in Korea, Major branches of Angel-in-us, The Bakers Table, Zelen, Taco Chili Chili, Thunder Burger, Salam Bakery, TG, Tomatillo, Dublin Gangnam, Pattaya, Cup&Bowl, Lazy Sue, The Hungry Dog, Flee Flee, My Thai, Le Saigon, 19st. NEAL’S YARD, Ankara Picnic, Gecko’s Terrace, Gecko’s Garden, Yale Town, Macaroni Market, Berlin, 3 Alley Pub, Petra Palace, Smokey Saloon, Isabelles the Butcher, Jacoby’s Burger, Le Saint-Ex, Suji’s, Buddha’s Belly, The Flying Pan Blue, Standing Coffee, Earl, The Concorde, Mi Madre, Noa, Butter Cup, Moghul, Noxa, La Suite, RES2GO, Indigo, Wang Thai, Mi Casa

Day 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ]. Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1]. Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Day 1

3 days / 2 nights Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2]. Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong. Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Celebrate in Busan Korea’s second city of Busan hosts the Busan International Film Festival and Busan Fireworks Festival in October. >p20–21

Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Take in the Gangnam Style Festival Marathons, shopping, K-pop concerts and more! >p18–19

Party like there’s no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdamdong [ Map 11 C2].

Day 2 Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park.

Light a Lantern in Jinju

Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch.

The southeastern fortress town of Jinju plays host to one of Korea’s most colorful festivals, the Jinju Namgang Lantern Festival. >p22–23

Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ], including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2]. Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats. Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].

Day 3

Get Cozy with a Good Book

Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

Autumn is the season for reading. SEOUL tells you where to get a good book. >p32–33

Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3].

Go Hiking When the colors turn, it’s time to hit the hills. The Seoul Hiking Group is a good place to get started. >p41

Enjoy the World’s Best Fried Chicken Korea has got a variety of unique chicken dishes, including “the world’s best fried chicken.” >p28-30

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3].

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Exploring Seoul

Voala Project. Photo courtesy of Hi Seoul Festival

Hi Seoul Festival (Oct 2–6) First held in 2003, the Hi Seoul Festival has transformed itself from a largely promotional vehicle into one of the country’s best celebrations of street art. With artistic director Kim Jong-seok at the helm, the festival will feature 20 invitational performances by Korean groups and 6 invitational performances by overseas groups (including Australia’s Stalker Theatre and Spain’s Atempo Circ), as well as 24 volunteer performances by local groups. Most of the fun will be taking place in Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul and Cheonggyecheon Plazas, and downtown Seoul’s connecting roads. Two things you won’t want to miss are the opening and closing programs. The opening program (Oct 2, 8pm) will light up Seoul Plaza with a multimedia performance—with fireworks!—that explores the history of the city of Seoul through video, music, and dance. The closing program (Oct 6, 3pm–10pm), meanwhile, will fill Seoul Plaza and Taepyeong-ro with street performances of all kinds—it’s Seoul’s biggest block party.

Street art by Saram, Itt. Photo courtesy of Hi Seoul Festival Drum Cat. Photo courtesy of Seoul Drum Festival

Festival Time

Seoul finds many ways to celebrate in October Written by Robert Koehler

n Seoul, October is a time to celebrate. Throughout the month, the city’s streets, parks, and cultural spaces play host to a wide range of festivals and celebrations. Whether it’s enjoying a street performance during the Hi Seoul Festival, trying new international cuisines at the Itaewon Global Festival, taking in some alternative art at the Seoul Performing Arts Festival, or watching the night sky explode during the Seoul International Fireworks Festival, there’s something for everyone. SEOUL takes a look at some of the fun and pageantry that’s in store.

Venue: Downtown Seoul’s major plazas and connecting streets Date: Oct 2–6 www.hiseoulfest.org [ Map 1 c4]

Seoul Drum Festival (Oct 3–4) Humankind’s oldest and most basic musical instrument, the drum, was used by the ancients to communicate with the gods. During the Seoul Drum Festival, however, it becomes an instrument of intercultural communication. Korean and overseas percussion troupes will delight audiences with a wide range of performances ranging from the traditional to the avant-garde. The festival is also an opportunity to explore the confines of Gyeonghuigung Palace and the Seoul Museum of History, one of the city’s most underrated museums. If there’s a group to watch, it’s Drum Cat, the all-female Korean drumming troupe that has wowed audiences both here and abroad. Jumping between genres with their unique modern beat, they combine a feminine sophistication with powerful drumming to create performances you aren’t likely to forget. You’ll also want to check out the debut performance of One World Percussion, bringing together renowned solo artists Jeff Queen, Nebojsa Zivkovic, David Panzl, and Chung Kun-young. Venue: Gyeonghuigung Palace and Seoul Museum of History Date: Oct 3–4 www.seouldrum.go.kr [ Map 1 c4]

Exploring Seoul

Voala Project. Photo courtesy of Hi Seoul Festival

Street art by Saram, Itt. Photo courtesy of Hi Seoul Festival Drum Cat. Photo courtesy of Seoul Drum Festival

Festival Time

Seoul finds many ways to celebrate in October Written by Robert Koehler

Venue: Downtown Seoul’s major plazas and connecting streets Date: Oct 2–6 www.hiseoulfest.org [ Map 1 c4]

Dining & nightlife

Dak, Dak, Dak The Chicken in Korea 닭

There is a certain dining etiquette when it comes to eating chicken that you should keep

and potatoes. It was also braised in sauces, roasted, and fried. Koreans love to eat chicken

in mind in Korea. The legs are the prized part of the chicken, so they should be shared or

feet and gizzards; the latter is called dak ddongjip (chicken poop house). The chicken is also

offered to the most important person at the table. Wings should not be offered to a loved

the animal believed to carry the soul, so you’ll often find them on old funeral caskets. If you

one lest they “fly away.” In the past, chicken needed to be prepared in a way to increase the

are crazy for chicken, here are some places to try.

Daily Delights

Here are my suggestions for a great food day in Seoul.

Breakfast

Chicken and Ginseng Rice Porridge at Yeonjuk 연죽 Jongno area Getting breakfast in Korea can be incredibly difficult if you don’t want to go to a hangover soup restaurant or a fast food joint. However at Yeonjuk at Jongno 3-ga, their business is centered around breakfast. They open at 7am to serve a Korean rice porridge called juk to hungry guests. They have a delicious chicken and ginseng one called samgyejuk that is served with spicy fermented squid and fish roe and kimchi. The subtle chicken and creamy rice are accented with the Asian flavor of ginseng. What I really like about this place is that the rice is not too mushy (you can still see the individual grains). Trust me, a bowl of chicken and ginseng porridge will get you more revved up than just lumpy oatmeal.

nutrients, so it was often stuffed with rice and boiled in soup with oriental herbs, ginseng,

Written and photographed by Daniel Gray

T. 02-741-8004 Price: About KRW 8,000

Chicken Soup for Your Korean Soul

Dongdaemun area

Dinner

Jinokkwa Halmae Dak 진옥화 할매 닭 When you are in need of some chicken soup in Korea, I suggest you get some dakhanmari in Dongdaemun. This area has dozens of these “whole chicken soup” joints, and they all serve this

rustic dish with subtle healing properties. Remember that in Korea, health is the most important part of a meal. That is why, when the broth is made, it is common to add Oriental medicinal herbs in the broth; in special cases, chef/doctors will even add deer antler and ginseng. The place where I feel healthiest is at Jinokhwa Halmae Dak. The broth has this lift of delicate herbs with a warming garlic note that is accented by the fresh green onions. Honestly, I think an IV of this broth could probably cure cancer. As the broth cooks the chicken, you use scissors to cut it

Lunch

Bongchu Jjimdak with Toasted Rice 봉추찜닭 Bongchu’s black jjimdak sauce is savory, sweet, and spicy and has lots of garlic and ginger. The sauce has many chunks of chicken, tender potatoes, carrots, and thick sweet potato noodles. As you eat it, you’ll feel your forehead start to burn up, but it is so good that you can’t help but eat everything the sauce touches. My favorite vehicle for the sauce is the toasted rice. You should get it near the end of the meal and let the crispy bits soak up some of the remaining sauce—but be sure to not let it get too soggy. The juxtaposing textures of soft and savory makes it an epic end-of-the-meal treat. T. 02-318-6981 Price: KRW 10,000/person

[ Map 4 C2]

[ Map 1 D3]

Various Chicken Bits at Samgeori Hongdae area Pocha 삼거리포차

Late Night

It’s back! Finally, after many years, this famous Hongdae drinking tent restaurant has reopened, and it hasn’t missed a beat. There are still droves of people waiting outside to get their beer and soju, which they enjoy with various sides such as spicy octopus, assorted tempura, grilled fish, and more. The interior has gotten a facelift (and sadly, so have the prices). Fortunately, the food is still tasty. Plus, they don’t skimp on the chicken. Here you can get spicy chicken feet, fried chicken, and cheesy egg omelets. The atmosphere is kinetic, and it’ll become clear very quickly why Hongdae is the place to party in Korea.

Plump Hot Wings at 3 Alley Pub 3앨리펍 Itaewon area If you are looking for some Western-style hot wings, then head over to 3 Alley Pub. Here you’ll get plump wings dipped in a classic hot sauce and butter sauce and served with celery and blue cheese dressing. They also have many other flavors such as BBQ, honey mustard, and teriyaki. T. 02-749-3336 Price: KRW 7,000

[ Map 8 C2]

up into chopstick-manageable pieces and then let the rice cakes and potatoes cook. The dipping sauce for the chicken is a DIY affair: you can add as much spicy sauce, mustard, and soy sauce as you’d like. After enjoying the chicken, leave some broth to make some fresh noodle soup.

T. 02-3144-6748 Price: KRW 15,000/person

[ Map 7 D1]

This is a must-have taste experience while in Korea. T. 02-2275-9666 Price: KRW 18,000 for 2-3 [ Map 5 B1]

Best Fried Chicken in the World at Hanchu

Sinsa-dong area

Photo by Ryu Seunghoo

Quick Bites

Hanchu 한추 Hanchu has been called the top fried chicken in the world according to the foodie organization

Scotch Eggs? Try Reilly’s

Chowzter. In London, it won Top Fried Chicken in their fast feast awards ceremony. The fried chicken here is encapsulated in a shockingly crisp batter that has an elusive peppery kick.

라일리탭하우스

Hanchu is the place where locals go to get their fried chicken desires fulfilled. The batter is a

Reilly’s Taphouse in Itaewon is serving up an awesome selection of ales and beers (both foreign and domestic) and a dizzying array of gastropub fare. Plus they have dishes made from the chicken and the egg. On their brunch menu there are steak and eggs as well as cereal-crusted french toast. They also have blackened chicken sandwiches and beerbraised chicken wings. But the thing that gets me really excited are the Scotch eggs. They are encrusted in ground pork and bread crumbs, fried, and served with a tangy tomato sauce. These go pretty well with a beer (or three).

part of the equation, but so are the pork-stuffed green chilies that are fried in the same grease. These gochu go down crispy but leave a spicy undertone that makes you want to chase it with cold beer. The place has a greasy spoon sort of feel and almost seems out of place in the posh Gangnam area, but that is what adds to the charm. If fried chicken is on your bucket list of things to eat in Korea, then this should surely be at the top. 02-3446-5778 Price: KRW 17,000 for 2-3 [ Map 11 B2]

Itaewon area

T. 02-792-6570 Price: KRW 10,000 [ Map 8 B3]

The Frypan: University Project Turned Franchise 프라이팬 Hongdae University is known as the school for aspiring artists. The scene is eclectic and energetic, and many of the restaurants and eateries in the surrounding area reflect this. The Frypan was started as a school project by a group of university students. Their signature dish is boneless chicken breast that is breaded and fried and served over a bed of freshly fried potato chips. It is like a battleship of chicken strips and chips. It comes with their “original” mayonnaise/garlic sauce or a spicy chicken sauce. Oh, and their turnip pickles have a curry accent. I give these art students an A+ for their restaurant.

Hongdae area Locations throughout Korea www.thefrypan.co.kr

Shopping

Nothing Says Fall Better Than a Few Good Books Bookstore options abound for cerebral shoppers A cool evening breeze has replaced the oppressive heat of summer, and it follows that curling up with a book is not too far off, either. There’s a saying in Korea—gaeureun dokseo-ui gyejeol—that translates to, “Fall is the season for reading.” Take a cue from this Korean pearl of wisdom to visit some of Seoul’s bookstores for a bit of autumnal appreciation of the written word. Although Kyobo Book Centre is by far the largest and most well-known of bookstore chains here in Seoul—you can find their massive store at Gwanghwamun Station (Line 5), Exit 3, while Gangnamites can try the location at Sinnonhyeon Station (Line 9), Exit 6—there is a great variety of more specialized bookstores, perfect for finding that perfect fall snuggle buddy. Written by Daisy Larios

English-Language Books Perhaps the most popular shop for English-language books among expats is What the Book, located on the northern side of Itaewon’s main thoroughfare towards Noksaypyeong Station (Line 6). Consisting of both used books and new, you’ll surely find something here to suit your tastes and needs. There are a considerable number of children’s books, too, for families looking to enrich the literary lives of their little ones.

What the Book Itaewon Station (Line 6), Exit 1 whatthebook.com T. 02-797-23428

Books about Korea Art/Design

For an expertly curated collection of books, movies, and CDs on Korea, look no further than Seoul Selection’s very own bookshop. Conveniently located near Gyeongbokgung Palace and Samcheong-dong, the cozy Seoul Selection Bookshop offers the usual café fare, letting you casually browse for books to prepare you for (or round out, as it were) your Korea experience. Translated works, Korean language textbooks, fiction, and nonfiction can all be had here—as can some samplings of Korean traditional teas, like the delightfully sweet omija (Five Tastes) tea.

Seoul Selection Bookshop Gwanghwamun Station (Line 5), Exit 2 www.seoulselection.com/bookstore/ T. 02-734-9565

Although a bit sequestered on the third floor of the building that houses the Hannam-dong branch of MILLIMETER/MILLIGRAM (MMMG), Post Poetics is a treasure trove of art, design, and photography books; even harder-to-find magazines and books from abroad can be found here. Originally opened in Sangsu-dong in 2006—no one was running this kind of store back then—Post Poetics is run by a handful of people with a variety of backgrounds, including painting and graphic design, who simply wanted to operate their own project rather than answer to clients. The store also sells a few select stationery items and works of art.

Post Poetics 포스트 포에틱스 Hangangjin Station (Line 6), Exit 3 www.postpoetics.kr www.facebook.com/postpoetics T. 02-322-7023

Used Books

Manga/Manhwa Fans of Japanese manga—or the Korean variety, known as manhwa—will want to steer themselves over to Buksaetong, a basement-level bookstore accessible from Hongik University Station’s Exit 8 (its location should probably not come as a surprise, given Hongik University’s reputation as Korea’s finest art school). Perhaps the most well-known store of its kind among artists, Buksaetong’s sizeable selection is bound to enthrall local otakus itching to get their hands on some comics.

Taking the prize for the most unique location is the Underground Foreign Bookstore, nestled between a women’s clothing store and a home appliance store in the cavernous underground shopping arcade near Seoul City Hall. The small stall—No. 213—is packed floor to ceiling with used books, mostly in English but also in several other languages, and Mr. Lee, the owner, says there are a lot more where those came from. Most titles are KRW 2,000–4,000, but some out-ofprint and rare titles are pricier. The bookstore has been around since 1982, but Mr. Lee has big plans to move the operation aboveground in the next year or so, so make sure and pay a visit while it’s in its current (eccentric) state. Underground Foreign Bookstore Between City Hall Station (Lines 1, 2) and Euljiro 1-ga Station (Line 2) T. 02-734-9565

Buksaetong 북새통 Hongik University Station (Line 2), Exit 8 www.booksaetong.co.kr (Korean only) T. 070-7519-2008

Tip: If you’re still hungry for more, try venturing to nearby Paju Book City for their Booksori Festival, to be held from Sep 28–Oct 6. See pg. 365 for more information.

Goings-on around town

PREVIEWS+

2013 SEOUL PERFORMING ARTS FESTIVAL (SPAF) T Arko Arts Theater, Daehangno Arts Theater Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 2

TYPOJANCHI 2013 Culture Station Seoul 284 (Line 1, 4, Airport), Exit 2

Thru Oct 11

T. 02-398-7945, www.typojanchi.org

PAJU BOOKSORI 2013 Asia Publication Culture & Information Center Sep 28–Oct 6 T. 031-355-0079, www.pajubooksori.org Take bus 2200 or 200 at Hapjeong Station 합정역 (Line 2, 6), Exit 2

Jaraseom Island, Gapyeong Oct 3–6 www.jarasumjazz.com KRW 45,000-110,000 Namchuncheon-bound trains depart from Cheongnyangni Station, stopping at Gapyeong Station.

The Jarasum International Jazz Festival, held on Jaraseom Island in Gapyeong, is a large-scale jazz event that attracts over 100,000 visitors every year. With fresh autumn air and the island’s colorful mosaic as a backdrop, worldrenowned musicians greet the audience with the most amazing tunes under the sun. This year, 50 bands from all around the world will be performing on multiple stages set up throughout the venue. In addition, there will be sales booths displaying and selling diverse art pieces. Headliners of the four-day event include Ibrahim Maalouf, Madeleine Peyroux, Erik Truffaz Quartet, Kenny Barron Trio, and the Steve Gadd Band. Along with these international stars, the festival contributes to the promotion of local artists, making it of huge interest to local and international fans alike. The festival will kick off with the performance of the Jo Young Deok Trio, who won the Jarasum International Jazz Concours in 2012.

T. 02-3668-0100, www.spaf.or.kr

Seoul Station 서울역

Typojanchi is a biannual international exhibition of typography to explore various elements of the art as a visible language and a cultural discipline. Under the theme, titled “SUPERTEXT (Typography as Literature),” the 2013 edition explores the dual identity of typography, in the sense that it is as much an art of language as a visual art platform. Through exhibitions, seminars, workshops, and multidisciplinary performances, Typojanchi strives to share with the public the literary potential of typography in the overlap of the two realms.

JARASUM INT'L JAZZ FESTIVAL

Oct 2–26

The Paju BookSori celebrates literature and its history with exhibitions, lectures, performances, and other public-oriented events like book fairs and flea markets. The annual book-themed festival is hosted by Paju, which is home to a cluster of some 260 publishing companies. The exhibition Hangeul Nadri 569 brings together materials drafted in hangeul in the early days of Christianity in Korea. The festival has invited celebrated Japanese poet Shuntaro Tanikawa, acclaimed Korean poet Shin Kyung-lim, and French columnist Guy Sorman.

Every year, the SPAF challenges the conventional notion that performing arts is only for the supremely intellectual by inviting all who simply enjoy the aesthetics of art and crave something new and fresh. This year, a total of 19 entries—including ten foreign invitational works from France, the US, Belgium, Poland, China, and Japan—will dazzle the audience. The roster consists of eight theatrical works, seven dances, and four multi-genre productions. Some of the highlights include Victor ou les enfants au pouvoir from France, about a boy crying out at the absurdity of life and the laws of the society, and Zbrodnia (The Crime) from Poland, which tells a story of a captivating mystery written by highly praised Polish novelist Witold Gombrowicz. King Lear, a joint production between Korea and Japan, is directed by Suzuki Tadashi, a living legend in Japanese theater history. Of particular note is Sontag: Reborn from the US, which is adapted from renowned author and activist Susan Sontag’s early journals.

PICASSO DE MALAGA, PICASSO ABSOLUTO Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Oct 1–Nov 24 T. 1599-2298, picassoabsoluto.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5

Some 200 pieces of artwork by Pablo Picasso—including prints and drawings—as well as historical data are on view in southern Seoul. The collection is on loan from the Malaga-based Picasso Foundation. The exhibition is divided into four topics: Picasso’s women, explorations of human nature, his views on still life and fauna, and Picasso as an illustrator. In addition, some 100 rare photographs on display offer a glimpse into his personal life, building a complete understanding of Picasso’s artistic career. The photography is the work of renowned Hungarian artist Juan Geynes, who worked in Spain.

ENGLISH BOOKING Dates & venues below are subject to change.

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global

MUSEUMS Musical Instruments That Went Abroad 120 Years Ago National Museum of Korea Oct 1– Dec 1 Free / T. 02-2077-9271 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Crafts of the Old National Folk Museum of Korea Oct 9–28 Free / T. 02-3704-3114 www.nfm.go.kr [ Map 3 A2]

A Story of Dongnong Family: 27 Years with the Korea Provisional Government Seoul Museum of History Thru Oct 13 Free / T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr [ Map 1 A3]

Congo River, Art of Central Africa National Museum of Korea Oct 22– Jan 19, 2014

Free T. 02-2077-9271 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

CLASSICAL MUSIC Gautier Capucon Cello Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct 6 KRW 50,000–120,000 T. 02-599-5743 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Maksim and his Band Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Oct 1 KRW 55,000–165,000 T. 02-399-1114 sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

Jean-Efflam Bavouzet Piano Recital Concert Hall, Seongnam Art Center

Oct 19 KRW 30,000–100,000 T. 031-780-8000 www.snart.or.kr Imae Station 이매역 (Line Bundang), Exit 1

KRW 60,000–180,000 T. 1577-5266 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

BBC Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct 8

Showpera in Verdi KBS Hall Oct 4-6

KRW 50,000-250,000 T. 1577-5266 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

SAC Concert Opera I Rigoletto Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct 15 KRW 30,00–120,000 T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Itzhak Perlman Violin Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct 14, 8pm

KRW 50,000-300,000 T. 070-8157-6553 www.scotopera.co.kr Fifteen minutes walk from Exit 3 of Yeouido Station 여의도 (Line 5, 9), or three minutes from Exit 4 of National Assembly Building Station 국회의사당역 (line 9)

DANCE Korean National Ballet- A Night with Roland Petet Opera Theatre, Seoul Arts Center Oct 11–13 KRW 5,000–60,000 T. 02-587-6181 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

32 rue Vandenbranden by Peeping Tom LG Art Center Nov 2–3 KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 11 C3]

SIDANCE 2013 Seoul Arts Center, Aramnuri etc Oct 7–27 KRW 20,000–60,000 T. 02-3216-1185 www.sidance.org

MUSICALS Bonny & Clyde Chungmu Art Hall Sep 4– Oct 27 KRW 60,000–270,000 T. 02-764-7857 www.cmah.or.kr [ Map 9 D2]

Notre Dame De Paris Blue Square Sep 27–Nov 17 VIP: KRW 130,000, R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 80,000, A: KRW 60,000

T. 02-541-3184 bluesquare.kr [ Map 9 B1]

Avenue Q Charlotte Theater Aug 23–Oct 6 KRW 50,000–130,000 T. 1644-0078 www.charlottetheater.co.kr [ Map 12 ]

Bungee Jumping of Their Own Doosan Art Center Thru Nov 17 KRW 60,000–80,000 T. 02-744-4033 www.doosanartcenter.com Jong-ro 5-ga Station 종로 5가 (Line 1), Exit 1

THEATER Defiance Daehangno Space Owl Thru Oct 20 KRW 12,000–30,000 T. 02-2232-1214 Hyehwa Station (Line 4), Exit 2

The Birds - Aristophanes Triology Baek Seonghui & Jang Minho Theater Oct 22–Nov 3 KRW 15,000–30,000 T. 1688-5966 www.ntck.or.kr Seoul Station (Line 1, 4, Airport, Gyeongui) Seobu Station Exit

The Pitman Painters Myeongdong Theater Sep 13–Oct 13 KRW 20,000–50,000 T. 1644-2003 www.mdtheater.or.kr English subtitles will be provided for the shows on Saturday September 28, October 12. [ Map 4 B2]

CONCERTS I Am Robot and Proud TBA Oct 10–13 KRW 10,000–15,000 T. 011-9025-3407 supercolorsuper.com [ Map 7 D1]

Real Music Festival The Black Jamsil Olympic Stadium Oct 19 KRW 99,000 T. 02-554-1941 www.realmusicfestival.co.kr Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6

Zandari Festa 2013 Hongdae Streets Oct 11–13 KRW 20,000–55,000 T. 070-8231-2013 / zfesta.com [ Map 1 C2, D2, D1 etc]

Epitone Project “Weekend in October” KT&G Sangsang Art Hall Oct 5–27 KRW 88,000 T. 02-3404-4311 www.sangsangarthall.com Samseong Station, Line 2, Exit 2. Walk 100m.

Tiesto Club Life Jamsil Indoor Gymnasium Oct 2 KRW 99,000–130,000 T. 1544-1555 http://ticket.interpark.com/

Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6

Busker Busker Concert Gymnastics Arena, Olympic Park Nov 1–2 KRW 77,000–110,000 T. 02-3141-3488 http://ticket.interpark.com/ Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

Grand Mint Festival 2013 Olympic Park Oct 19–20 KRW 88,000 (1 day) www.grandmintfestival.com Mongchontoseong Station 몽촌토성역 (Line 8), Exit 1

Red Flag: Yellow Monsters Nation Wide Tour Seoul, Busan, Jeonju, Daegu Sep 27–Oct 12 KRW 40,000 T. 02-324-3475 yellowmonsters.net/

Global Gathering Korea Caribbean Bay, Everland Oct 12 KRW 110,000

http://globalgatheringkorea.co.kr Bus No. 5002 departing from Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2, Sinbundang Line)

LEE Jaram, Pansori Brecht ‘Ukchuk-ga’ LG Arts Center Oct 25–27

Falling in Jazz Sejong Grand Theater Oct 30–31

KRW 30,000– 50,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 11 C3]

KRW 1,000 T. 02-399-1114 sejongpac.or.kr / [ Map 1 B3]

Lenard’s Measurement LIG Art Hall,Gangnam Oct 10, 8pm Free T. 02-6900-3900 www.ligarthall.com [ Map 11 B3]

KOREAN MUSIC Complete Pansori Performance: Chunhyang-ga National Theater of Korea Oct 19 KRW 20,000 T. 02-2280-4114 www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

KOREAN THEATER Janchi—The Last Empress’s Feast Seoul Namsan Taditional Theater Sep 4–Dec 29 (11am, closed every Mon–Tue) KRW 20,000 T. 02-2261-0501 sngad.sejongpac.or.kr Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4. [ Map 4 D4]

Yeonhui Madang National Gugak Center Every Saturday, 4pm–7pm Free / T. 02-580-3300 www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to maeul bus No. Seocho 12 or green bus No. 4429.

KOREAN DANCE Korean Traditional Culture Experience 'Misuda' Seoul Namsan Gugakdang open run KRW 35,000–50,000 T. 02-2261-0513 sejongpac.or.kr Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4. [Map 4, D4]

ROYAL PALACE EXPERIENCE Namsan Bongsudae (Beacon Tower) Traditional Culture Concert | Lighting Ceremony Namsan Palgakjeong (Pavilion) | Namsan Bongsudae 3pm–3:30pm (except Mondays) 10am–12:30pm (except Mondays) Free / (02) 120 www.royalguard.or.kr Bus: yellow bus No. 2 & 3 Cable car: Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 3. Elevator: located in front of Namsan 3rd Tunnel

Maps & guides43

FAMED DIRECTOR SEEKING CONTENT FOR SEOUL MOVIE Globally renowned director Park Chan-wook is seeking public participation to create the film Seoul, Our Movie in cooperation with his brother and director Park Chan-kyong. The directors are not shooting a single scene. Instead, they will select, compile, and edit videos posted via YouTube by amateur filmmakers around the world. Through Nov 9, anyone can submit a video no longer than 5 minutes in length about Seoul in three categories. If you are a Seoul lover, upload your entries at www.youtube.com/ seoulourmovie. The film is planned to premier next January. Join the enthusiastic Seoul Gaels group for some Gaelic football, which can be described a combination of football and rugby. Anyone is welcome to join at any time. Apart from football, the group also organizes hiking trips, club barbecues, and more. T. 010-2381-6752 http://seoulgaels.weebly.com

STAND UP SEOUL First Thursday of every month, 9pm

BREASTFEEDING SUPPORT GROUP MEETUP Every 3rd Thursday, 10:30am–noon Homestead Coffee T. 02-749-9951 contact@birthinginkorea.com www.birthinginkorea.com [ Map 8 D3]

BRITISH ARMY FITNESS Every Monday, 7:30pm

Rocky Mountain Tavern

Namsan Park

Korea’s first and longest running English-speaking comedy room with Korea’s funniest expats! To sign up or inquire: standupseoul@gmail.com www.facebook.com/groups/ standupseoul

Join British Army Fitness in Korea on their Monday Evening Boot Camp. T. 010-9939-7830 bafikhq@gmail.com www.bafikbootcamps.com [ Map 8 D1]

YOGA CLASSES Thru Dec 30 Indian Cultural Center Yoga classes take place from 8–10pm at the center in Hannam-dong. T. 02-792-4257 Hannam Station 한남역 (Jungang Line), Exit 1

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL HIKERS CLUB

Sports and fitness events take place in and around Seoul usually every Saturday, sometimes Sundays. Participants pay for their own meal. sihclub@gmail.com

JANKURA ARTSPACE: REGULAR CLASS Every Tuesday & Thursday, 6pm–9pm Jankura Artspace Seoul’s first foreign-owned and operated studio and art class space with the expat community in mind. KRW 250,000 for 3 months (12 classes); one-time walk-in price: KRW 25,000 T. 010-6227-4244/ http:// mstewartprintmaker.com/ jankuraenglish.htm [ Map 8 D3]

KOREAN CALLIGRAPHY CLASS FOR FOREIGNERS Mondays (10am–noon), Tuesdays (7–9pm) Soo-Woon-Hoe-Kwan near Insadong

According to Korean news reports, Seoul National University (SNU) has named Bernhard Egger as its first-ever foreign administrative faculty member. The Swiss-born Egger obtained his bachelors and masters from ETH Zurich and his PhD in computer science from SNU in 2008. It’s expected that Egger will help resolve some of the difficulties experienced by foreign professors and students at SNU’s School of Computer Science and Engineering and play a leading role in internationalizing the school. He will also managing the School of Computer Science and Engineering’s computer system. Eggar told newspapers that while it was an honor to be named an administrative faculty member, it was also a heavy weight—it felt like a whole new world was opening since there are many meetings that administrative faculty must chair or attend.

to dance jive/cha cha cha/rumba/ waltz/tango with a professional instructor. KRW 50,000 (extra charge for dance instruction class). T. 02-2222-8647 [ Map 9 C2]

FOREIGN ARTISTS WANTED Oct 10, 12pm–7pm Doldam-Gil (Stone Wall Road), Deoksu Palace The Art Market of ‘DolYaeGong’ is looking for especially foreign artists and arts college students who sell their products or want to perform. Application date: any time. Of course you can also just go and visit the market. KRW 20,000 for regular participation 21crpm@hanmail.net/ http://cafe. daum.net/ideamasters/6tbG/543 [ Map 1 B4]

Learn how to handwrite beautifully with this Korean calligraphy class. They welcome international residents. KRW 10,000 moon4510@naver.com

GANGNAM CANOE CLUB: KAYAK RENTAL & TOUR Thru November, 6am–7pm

RMT TRIVIA NIGHT Every Sunday, 6:30pm

Gangnam Canoe Club has a variety of services and equipment that enable visitors to experience the joy of kayaking, free from worries. chris_roh@hotmail.com Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7), Exit 2

Rocky Mountain Tavern Easily one of the best nights of trivia you will have in Korea. Multimedia categories with audio and video on huge monitors! Win cash, food and more! Stick around around for karaoke! T. 02-792-5392 [ Map 8 E3]

LATIN & SALSA IN GANGNAM Every 2nd and 4th Saturday, 5pm–6pm Renaissance Hotel Seoul Toscana Restaurant Great buffet and fun dancing. Learn

SERVICES

SNU NAMES FIRST FOREIGN ADMINISTRATIVE FACULTY MEMBER

Ttukseom Resort

FOODIE CRAWL Every Saturday Location varies Join the brand new foodie crawl every Saturday to munch your way around Itaewon and its surrounding areas. The group will attend four restaurants every week from 3pm to taste a portion of the menu, all with a different theme. KRW 36,000 via bank deposit or $32 via Paypal. / T 023447-1611

WEDNESDAY EVENING GUGAK Wednesdays, ends Dec 4, 7:30pm National Gugak Center’s Pungnyu Sarangbang Recital Hall Enjoy traditional Korean music and dance in an awe-inspiring amphitheatre. KRW: 10,000 / www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station (Line 3) [NEW]

AUTOMATED FREE BICYCLE RENTAL

Yongsan-gu Office has an automated free bicycle rental facility equipped with 20 bikes in the 1st basement area of the building near the Yongsan Community Health Clinic entrance. These bikes can be rented for free by any Yongsan-gu residents. T. 02-2199-7750 http://global.seoul.go.kr/itaewon

REWARD FOR REPORTING KONGLISH SIGNS If you spot a tourism sign with bad English at tourist areas, please report it to the translation service team of Korea Tourism Organization to win a gift certificate worth KRW 30,000. www.facebook.com/konglish0

SIWA SEARCHING FOR VOLUNTEERS

The Seoul International Women’s Institute are recruiting volunteers for their November 5 community bazaar. The event runs from 9am–4pm; meeting point is the Seoul Museum of History. Email Ingrid Peeters at specialevents@ siwapage.com.

INT'L COUNSELING & COACHING SERVICES Yonsei University Center for Counseling & Coaching Services trains specialists in various fields of counseling and coaching and is extending its outreach commitment to local communities, including resident expats. The institution’s welltrained counselors and coaches are ready to serve multicultural members of Korean society, including international students and expats. The service is offered free of charge to Yonsei students. The counseling deals with issues related to psychological matters, relationship management, stress control, communication skills, and sexual and cultural identity. T. 070-4040-3081, www.yiccs.or.kr Mapo-gu Office Station 마포구청역 (Line 6), Exit 3. Make a right at the first alley and look for Shinhan Bldg.

ESSENTIAL WORDS AND PHRASES

An Illustrated Guide to Korean An Illustrated Guide to Korean: Essential Words and Phrases is the Korean-language phrasebook you’ve been waiting for! What started off as the Easy to Learn Korean series from a American and Korean husband-andwife team is finally available in book form. Chock-full of charming color illustrations, this guide features easy and useful Korean expressions organized into themes to help Korean-language beginners navigate everyday life in Korea. The easier, more entertaining way to learn!

Available at

Seoul Selection, major bookstores, and Amazon.com Written by Chad Meyer and Kim Moon-jung 308 pages | US $25.00 | 14,800 won

FOOD URBAN GARDEN At Urban Garden, patrons can enjoy homestyle Italian food, salad, soup, pasta, risotto, and set menus, along with wine and beer. The restaurant is divided into two sections–a formal main dining hall and a casual greenhouse area. Their rooftop garden is charming and features various herbs and fragrant flowers. The two themes highlighted in the rooftop garden are the “healing garden,” which claims to take your blues away with its natural fresh scent, and the “kitchen garden” which grows lettuce and chicory. The chef is often spotted stepping out to pick some herbs for the kitchen. The restaurant also offers advice on party planning and flower styling.

October

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’S PICK OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

T. 02-777-2254, www.urbangarden.co.kr

[ Map 1 B4]

Founded in 1952, the Seoul International Women’s Association is Seoul’s largest and oldest international women’s group. Bringing together women from over 50 countries, SIWA provides opportunitites for friendship, cultural exchange, personal growth and community service.

Come join the fun! Find out more at www.siwapage.com

2 4

ART/CULTURE

8 9 12 11

NANTA The nonverbal musical production Nanta is about three chefs preparing a wedding banquet. The chefs are required to finish preparing the meals within a strict amount of time, while the manager installs his incompetent nephew among the kitchen staff. The cooking process suddenly turns into a percussion music performance, using all sorts of kitchenware such as chopping knives, cutting boards, pots, and pans. The show involves acrobatics, magic tricks, comedy, pantomime, and audience participation. It is performed in three theaters in Seoul as well as one theater on Jejudo. Outside Korea, it is known as Cookin'. [ Map 4 B3]

SIWA has something for you!

Map

T. 070-7583-6432 [ Map 7 B2]

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon

Map

Myeong-dong

Map

Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

Map

Hangangjin Quickly turning itself into the trendiest spot in town

Map

Yeouido The Manhattan of Seoul

Map

Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s hippest college town areas

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet Map

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

FOOD If you are after a pretty café in Hongdae to have a chat and enjoy great sweets, you can’t go wrong with étonné. With a seating capacity of 40, this dessert café serves a refined variety of cakes, gelato, bingsu (shaved ice dessert), waffles, and more. Its gourmet gelato selection skillfully matches French desserts like macaroons and sorbet. Perched on an elevated ground floor of a small house, the dessert café is slightly hidden away from all the noise. Its cozy interior of bright natural colors and soft lighting generates a pleasant, calming vibe, while patrons can overlook the vibrant street traffic through a wide glass pane.

Insa-dong A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

CAFE étonné

Gwanghwamun Area Seoul’s old downtown

http://nanta.i-pmc.co.kr

Whether you’re a newcomer to Seoul, long-time expat or Korean resident,

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

Map

Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond