SEOUL Magazine 2009 November

NOVEMBER 2009

TRAVEL & CULTURE

DOSAN PARK PERCUSSION PERFORMANCE

NANTA

DIRECTOR GENERAL OF THE NCKTPA

PARK IL-HOON

GANA ART CENTER PARK HYATT

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Travel & Culture SEOUL 7

Contents

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November 2009 Issue No. 76

eXPLORING SEOUL Dosan Park The Unexpected Face of Evolving Southern Chic

64 TRAVEL Mysterious Cheongsong Mt. Juwangsan, Jusanji Lake Make Perfect Autumn Travel Destinations

ARTS 26 performing Nanta A Kitchen-Turned-Percussion Laboratory

Contents November 2009 Issue No. 76

16 Snapshot 18 Streetwise in Seoul Teatime 28 Cultural Hot Spots Gana Art Center

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32 Hotel Heaven Park Hyatt 36 Seoul Personalities Park Il-hoon Director General of the NCKTPA 40 Medical Tourism Seoul Sleep Clinic 44 Seoul of Zen 45 Oriental Medicine 46 City Interview Ichon Global Village Center Chief Yukiko Ishihara 50 Goings On Around Town 70 Eating Out sillim-dong Sundae Town 72 Lifestyle & Leisure Seoul Hiking Club 74 Shopping Seoul Folk Flea Market 76 Night Life Far Side of the Moon 80 Seoul City News 82 Community Page

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Issue No. 76 Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editorial Advisor Chung Kyung-a Kay Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Producer Shin Jiwon Copy Editor Colin Mouat Event Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Staff Reporter Ben Jackson Head Designer Jung Hyun-young Designer Lee Bokhyun Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Contributors Alexander Boutilier, Gregory Curley Raimund Royer, Seo Dong Shin Soo Bool Sunim, Gitte Zschoch Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by Prinpia (Tel 82-2-3282-8589 ) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise — without the written consent of the publishers.

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Cover Model

SEOUL

November 2009 Issue No. 76

KOO SO-HAI Koo So-hai is the only woman in the Purple Team of Korea’s leading non-verbal performance, Nanta. So-hai joined Nanta after graduating from Ewha Womans University’s Department of Dance in 2007 and has made a stunning impression ever since. Though only slight in build—at 169cm tall and 45kg—she captivates audiences with the energy that emanates from her body.

No one that sees So-hai perform is immune to her abundant charm.

Nanta is performed by different teams—Red, Yellow, White, Green, Blue, Black and Purple—but So-hai manages to display a greater spectrum of expressions and poses than all of these colors put together in one single photo shoot.

To witness first-hand the dynamism of So-hai’s performances, make your way to the next available Nanta performance...

Photo courtesy of Nanta

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Snapshot

Brunch Paradise—My Ssong

16 SEOUL November 2009

Getting up in time to leave an interval between breakfast and lunch is a major faux pas in Gangnam. There may be a hard day’s shopping to be done, but it can wait until after brunching in style at My Ssong, above, or another of the stomach-filling, wallet-emptying eateries around Dosan Park.

Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Travel & Culture SEOUL 17

Streetwise in Seoul

teatime SEOUL’s Guide to the Best of Korean Tea

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s the nippy Korean autumn settles upon us, it’s sometimes nice to have a cup of hot tea to warm the body and soothe the soul. Korea’s history with tea goes back centuries—according to one legend, green tea was brought to Korea in the 2nd century by an Indian princess who married the king of Garak, a small kingdom in Korea’s southeast. Besides the ever-popular green tea, Koreans also drink an assortment of other herbal and medicinal teas with a wide range of flavors and health benefits.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Popular Traditional Teas

Where to Enjoy Korean Traditional Teas

• Green Tea (Nokcha): Long associated with Korean Buddhist culture, green tea has been growing in popularity as part of a general trend towards healthier living. Major green tea producing regions in Korea include the southwestern town of Boseong and the southern island of Jeju. Green tea is classified according to when the tea leaf is picked — ujeon, made from the earliest picked leaves, is considered the best.

• Powdered Green Tea (Malcha): Made from finely powdered green tea, this frothy beverage is best known for its role in the Japanese tea ceremony. Koreans are less fond of it, but it can still be found in many tea shops.

• Ginseng Tea (Insamcha): Ginseng is world famous for its medicinal effects, and its strong-flavored tea — often prepared with honey — is said to help relieve many ailments and improve energy.

• Ginger Tea (Saenggangcha): Fresh ginger has a bit of a kick, so if you like your teas spicy, you’ll love this one. Great for colds.

• Jujube Tea (Daechucha): Made from the jujube, or Chinese date, this tea is said to be good for colds and coughs. Can be served hot or cold.

• Double Harmony Tea (Ssanghwacha): A favorite of this writer, Double Harmony Tea is a thick, herbal medicine tea often topped by nuts and a raw egg.

• Yuzu Tea (Yuja-cha): Made from the syrup of the yuja, of Chines citron, this sweet tea is rich in vitamin C and is perfect for shaking off colds and other winter ailments.

• Omija Tea (Omijacha): Omija, or Schisandra chinensis, means “five flavor berry,” and is reputed to possess all five basic flavors — salty, sweet, sour, pungent and bitter. Its tea can be served either hot or cold.

• Mugwort Tea (Ssukcha): A thick tea with a green tinge, this tea is good for digestion.

• Wild Sesame Tea (Deulkkaecha): Wild sesame makes for a rich, creamy tea that is said to be good for women’s health and beauty.

• Job’s Tear Tea (Yulmucha): This thick tea has an almost nutty flavor, and indeed, powdered nuts are often added to give it extra body.

If you’re a do-it-at-home sort, you can find many of these teas at neighborhood local grocery store or supermarket. If you live in the West, check out your local Asian foods grocery.

In order to enjoy a cup of traditional tea in an appropriately traditional atmosphere, head to Korean teahouse, or chatjip. The Insa-dong neighborhood (see Dokkaebi Maps and Guides, Map p10-11) is full of chatjip, but such places can be elsewhere, too.

Recommended ones include:

18 SEOUL November 2009

• Yetchatjip (Insa-dong): Wonderfully atmospheric, this place is best known for the bird that flies around its second floor. T. 722-5332 • Sin Yetchatjip (Insa-dong): A parrot welcomes you into the backalley hanok (Korean traditional home) teahouse. A great place to come, especially on a rainy day. T. 732-5257 • Insa-dong Teahouse (Insa-dong): Located on Insa-dong’s main drag, this place’s unassuming façade hides a beautiful Korean courtyard. T. 732-4909 • Dawon (Insa-dong): A beautiful hanok teahouse in the courtyard of Kyungin Museum of Fine Art. Especially beautiful in spring. T. 730-6305 • Cha Masineun Tteul (Bukchon): With an excellent hilltop location, the hanok Cha Masineun Tteul (“A Garden Where People Drink Tea”) does, in fact, have a beautiful garden, and offers terrific views as well as tea. T. 722-7006 • Suyeon Sanbang (Seongbuk-dong): This lovingly preserved early 20th century hanok home-turned-teahouse was originally the home of Yi Tae-jun, one of Korea’s greatest novelists. A great combination of beauty, history and good tea. T. 764-1736.

Exploring Seoul

20 SEOUL November 2009

The Unexpected Face of Evolving Southern Chic

Your diet can start from tomorrow...

Travel & Culture SEOUL 21

Exploring Seoul

N

orthern Seoul retains old royal palaces, national museums, occasional clusters of traditional Korean houses, and quite a few universities. What, then, is in southern Seoul?

Upon hearing the word “Gangnam,” referring to the southern part of Seoul, most Koreans automatically think of a place like Daechi-dong or Dogok-dong, where privileged private educational institutes have driven up housing prices and induced the building of high-rise apartment complexes since the 1980s.

As far as fashion and trends are concerned, however, southern Seoul can be best summed up by a triangle zone formed by three subway stations— Sinsa, Apgujeong, and Cheongdam. And the Dosan Memorial Park, which lies at the heart of the triangle, is the latest “it” area, with boutique shops, galleries, high-end restaurants and cafés sprouting up around it.

Dosan Memorial Park The history of the park does not bear much relevance to the mostly Western upmarket brand shops that are beginning to surround it. Dosan Memorial Park was built in 1973 to commemorate Ahn Chang-ho (1878—1938), regarded as a great patriot who toiled for the nation’s independence and sovereignty. His pen name of “Dosan” has also been given to Dosan Road, the ten-lane avenue linking Cheongdam-dong and Nonhyeon-dong. The park houses Ahn’s tomb, memorial statue and monument stones, as well as a memorial hall that provides a glimpse into the life of a man who emphasized the role of enlightenment and education to strengthen the nation and ultimately gain independence from Japanese colonial rule.

Trendspotting Scores of clinics dot Dosan Road, although many—plastic surgery clinics, dental clinics and dermatology clinics—are more for accommodating the trends du jour than for healing illnesses. If you approach the memorial park from the Dosan Road side, you may find the area rather dull at first, as the big road looks barren but for a few foreign car exhibition spaces and office buildings.

When you start exploring the smaller roads leading to the park, however, flagship stores for such familiar designer names as Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, and Ann Demeulemeester appear, as well as some local brands like Kolon FnC’s Series Corner. True, the number of design shops here pales in comparison to those nestled in nearby 22 SEOUL November 2009

Cheongdam-dong, but the fact that these shops opened here within less than a year testifies to up-and-comingness of the area. These flagship stores often house cozy cafés or artsy galleries alongside quality displays, so if you can overlook some irritatingly unaffordable price tags, windowshopping in this area could be quite a fulfilling experience.

Maison Hermès Dosan Park, which opened way back in 2007, may deserve a special mention. It is reportedly one of a mere four such comprehensive stores worldwide for the global brand. Hermès commands a loyal following among Korean women with its fashionable purses and scarves, and its maison is located on the road leading up to the main gate of the Dosan Park.

The brand has established itself as a sort of Maecenas, too, giving away annual art awards to a crop of talented contemporary Korean artists. The winners’ works are on display in a gallery on the third floor. At the basement level, Café Madang offers shelves of books from various countries, including a corner for children’s books.

Brunch Paradise The Dosan Park area first gained a reputation as a brunch heaven rather than a fashion street. The café “Walking Slowly,” which has now moved closer to Cheongdam-dong and opened branches in northern Seoul as well, started the trend here with its “slow food” menu. In the wake of the café came a horde of brunch and dining places—Gran Ciel, My Ssong, Ceci Cera and Bless Kitchen, to name but a few. While slightly varying in their main dishes and atmosphere, these places have a few things in common: sophisticated interiors that somehow create a quirky European feel, and pricey menus that invariably come with 10% V.A.T. on top.

Also of special note is the restaurant Gorilla in the Kitchen, which is owned by actor Bae Yongjoon. Bae has been known and worshipped as “Yonsama” by Japanese women since his appearance on the hit Korean TV drama “Winter Sonata,” and his popularity seems to have cemented the restaurant as a must-go destination for Japanese tourists on pilgrimage. Some could actually be seen wandering into Dosan Park after coming out of the restaurant, since the restaurant is located directly in front of the park’s main gate. An accidental visit to the Dosan Memorial Hall inside the park may provide an unexpected history lesson as a result of the Korean Wave.

2 3 1

1. Don’t park here unless you want to feel the wrath of the cat.

2. Trees - one of the highlights of most good parks 3. A quasi-European café terrace in the heart of Gangnam

Evolving Taste Apgujeong-dong, the first apex of southern Seoul’s luxury triangle, had Rodeo Street, which served as a hangout place for the “Orange Tribe”— a term coined by the local media in the mid-'90s for rich kids spoiled by their nouveau riche parents, sporting fancy cars and “foreign” tastes acquired from their experience living overseas.

Then came Cheongdam-dong, which was known for its boutique shops and fancy dining places with a cooler minimalist atmosphere.

The Dosan Park area is to some extent an evolving extension of both areas, in spirit as well as geography. The appearances are far less pronounced, with some of the boutique shops or art galleries almost hiding in corners behind scarcely visible signs. A look over the menus of restaurants and cafés reveals that most items are derived from European cuisines of sophisticated varieties—though a styled-up version of fish and chips selling for almost 20,000 won might be an exception. The trend here is largely aimed at the organic and “wellness,” with a bit of chic added in and some well-loaded purses.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 23

Exploring Seoul

Places to Visit • Cine City The nearest multiplex cinema, located in a landmark gray building close to the Dosan Memorial Park. www.icinecity.co.kr

• Horim Art Center An art center dedicated to promoting the beauty of traditional arts amid urban chic. Currently, Goryeo-era cheongja, or blue porcelain, is on display. Open 10:30am—6pm, except on Mondays. Tel. 5423523, www.horimartcenter.org

• Gorilla in the Kitchen “Wellness” restaurant owned by actor Bae Yong-joon. The entire menu is given with detailed calorie counts and ingredient lists.

Open 11am—11:30pm, Tel. 3442-1688, www.gorillainthekitchen. co.kr

• My Ssong Probably the most popular brunch place right now, as countless blogosphere reviews can testify. Burgers, pancakes, and a range of cakes. Open 9am—10pm, Tel. 518-0105.

Location The area is best approached by car, but it is also walkable from Exit 3 of Apgujeong Station, Line 3 (about 15 minutes) or Exit 8 of Sinsa Station, also Line 3 (about 25 minutes). Aim for the Dosan Memorial Park and explore the surrounding areas.

Written by Seo Dong Shin Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

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1 3

4

1. Cine City 2. Gorilla in the Kitchen - better than a cockroach 3. Horim Art Center 4. More mouthwatering brunch fare

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Performing Arts

A Kitchen-Turned-Percussion Laboratory

T

ake three cooks, a nasty manager and an apprentice. Put them in a fully equipped kitchen; add some pots, knives, cutting boards, ladles and spoons; stir with a couple of cups of percussion, comedy and pantomime; hone with a dash of dancing, singing and gibberishing; and, finally, sprinkle with a fine pinch of shamanism, Korean samulnori drumming and kimchi. Mix well. Pour into a greased casserole, place in a pre-heated oven, and bake for 20 minutes at the highest temperature. Serve immediately. Sound like an impossible recipe? Not at all. What you get is Korea’s most famous theater show, Nanta, with a name literally meaning “hit repeatedly” or “strike relentlessly.”

According to the New York Times, Nanta is “part food fight and part percussion festival,” and it is definitely influenced by widely known drum shows like Stomp. Yet Nanta’s producers changed one slight yet effective component of that recipe: they added more ingredients. Now it’s not only drumming— there’s only so much you can do to keep your audience alive without making them feel like they’re at a tribal ritual somewhere in the bush—but also an eclectic mix of several genres of the performing arts.

It all starts really quietly, with a table set as if in preparation for a Korean ancestral ritual. Some silver rice bowls are caressed, and later tormented with wooden chopsticks that serve as drum sticks. A hollow Korean pumpkin placed on a pot of water gets soft stick treatment, and the huge barrel gives off deeply reverberating sounds. Then comes the action, and things are kept spicy for the audience until the

26 SEOUL November 2009

very end. The cooks show the full range of their incredibly diverse skills—they juggle plates, throw melons, magically create a festive cream cake, save the life of a bird and replace it with delivery fried chicken, chase a fly around, mob the apprentice, get stuck with their behinds in waste baskets. There is enough comic potential that the intermission-less 90 minutes just fly by.

Simple, Korean Fun The plot is kept to a minimum and is conveyed through the tossing in of a couple of English words and lots of pantomime. Three cooks are making it through their day in quiet and relaxation. Some teasing is going on, between “Sexy Guy”—you got it, the Don Juan of the cooks—and “Hot Sauce,” the only female cook. For her outfit, the tailor must have run out of white linen, because there is a big hole around her midriff area—wouldn’t that hurt when hot grease is splashing from the frying pan?

Then the grumpy manager comes in, telling them to get it together and stop their games. They have to prepare a wedding feast within the hour—way too little time! To make matters worse, he presents his nephew, a total greenhorn, whom they are supposed to teach how to handle the pots and spoons and veggies and flames. So they rush from recipe to recipe, not forgetting to clean up in between and fool around while the manager is out of sight.

It wouldn’t be a show created in Korea if there weren’t at least some elements of Korean culture packaged into it somehow. Nanta is aimed at foreigners, so the little shamanist shrine to one side of the stage and the traditional wedding gowns that two chosen spectators are costumed in while spooning some soup on stage are just two examples of this.

Audience participation is yet another element to heighten the entertainment factor. At two times during the show, some lucky audience members are called onstage. At one point, they even have to engage in a race to make mandu (a kind of dumpling). And later, when the cooks are probably enjoying their Feierabend after the successful and timely completion of the wedding feast, having gotten the grumpy, achy-backed manager back to smile and having accepted his dumb nephew as one of them, they throw colorful balls into the audience. They're the same kind of balls you find at the kids' corner at McDonald's and in family restaurants. Make sure you bring your kids—they will love it.

Nanta is currently playing at four locations in Korea. One, the first theater in Korea ever dedicated to a single show, is located in the cozy area behind Deoksugung Palace. There is also a theater in Gangnam and another on Jeju Island. Recently, on Oct 10 of this year, a brand new theater opened its doors in Myeong-dong. This new location in the heart of touristy Seoul, where you hear more Japanese in the streets than Korean, is sure to attract a lot of tourists. Three times a day, the culture-craving urbanites can take a break from shopping to take in a performance. All told, the play is showing at least seven times a day! There are seven teams of actors, with new ones needing to be trained continuously in order to keep this business a-rolling. Prospective Nanta stars are sought out through periodic auditions.

Nanta Goes International This includes a young Japanese woman, Iwamoto Yoka, who came to Seoul in 2002 as a tourist and happened to see a Nanta performance. Thrilled by the exhilarating show, she began dreaming of becoming an actor there herself. Back in Osaka, she got a job in a Korean restaurant and started to study the language. A couple of years later, she came to Korea,

continued her language studies, and signed up for a Nanta audition. After she was accepted, she spent long hours practicing juggling pepper mills, knives and other kitchen utensils, and learning how to drum, dance and sing—all the things a Nanta performer has do simultaneously. Yoka is now performing regularly on the Nanta stage in Myeong-dong, making this Korean production truly international.

The international quest began much earlier, though. The first time Nanta hit the stage in Korea was in the fall of 1997. Since then, it has attracted the largest audiences in Korea ever for a play, and it debuted internationally in 1999 at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Guest performances followed in 231 cities on every continent of this planet. The show even found its way to Broadway in 2003. This October marked the 12th anniversary, and there is no end in sight for this huge success story.

After the performance, the streets of Myeong-dong are fun to just walk through—especially at night, when they’re full of street vendors that people have to find their way around. If you’re a bit hungry or thirsty and don’t mind going real Korean with soju and stirfried octopus, try the food alley located behind the Korea Post headquarters. This one’s a bit different from the ajeossi and businessman meet-up, as it is mostly young and very fashionable crowds that gather here, making it a perfect spot for people-watching.

Additional Information

At the new location in Myeong-dong, Nanta is playing daily and all year round at 2, 5, and 8pm. Tickets are between 40,000 and 60,000 won. Discounts are available for groups. For more information, check out www.nanta.co.kr or call (02) 739-8288.

Getting There

Come out of Exit 6 at Myeongdong Station, Line 4.

Follow the main road until you hit the big intersection near the Myeongdong Arts Theater. Turn left. The Nanta theater is on the third floor of the building with the KB bank on the first floor, opposite Burger King.

Written by Gitte Zschoch Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Travel & Culture SEOUL 27

Cultural Hot Spots

Picture Perfect Pyeongchang-dong’s Stunning Gana Art Center Provides the Perfect Excuse to Head to the Quiet Heights of Northern Seoul

T

he hillside neighborhood of Pyeongchang-dong is a hotbed of artistry. Home to galleries, art museums and several of Korea’s leading modern artists, the area is defended from large-scale redevelopment by its steep gradients, allowing it a less frenetic pace than other parts of Seoul. Just a persimmon’s drop away from the southern fringes of Bukhansan National Park, Pyeongchang-dong enjoys the best of the winter sunlight and unbeatable views of the city’s monsoon thunderstorms. Here, in one of the iconic buildings of the 20th century, is Korea’s largest gallery, Gana Art Center.

28 SEOUL November 2009

Art Within Art French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte is the man responsible for Gana’s unforgettable modern building, with its elegant lines and striking sense of space. Though hilltop tranquility comes at the price of somewhat compromised accessibility, Wilmotte’s 1998 masterpiece makes sure that visitors have a much harder time tearing themselves away from Gana Art Center than they ever could reaching it in the first place. With a total floor space approaching 3,000 square meters, the center comprises three

A scene from “Portraits of Our Lives”

exhibition spaces, a restaurant, gift shop, outdoor performance space and more.

After beginning in 1983 in Seoul’s Insa-dong, Gana opened its new main gallery in Wilmotte’s building in 1998. Before and since the move, Gana has undergone a steady series of expansions and new operations that have helped move it to the forefront of modern art in Korea: Gana Print Studio (1987), Gana Art Publication (1988), membership in Paris’s Cité Internationale des Arts (1996), Gana Art Shop and Gana Ceramic Studio (1997), Insa Art Center in Insa-dong (2000), the Gana Atelier artists’ residency program in Pyeongchang-dong (2002), which later became JangHeung Atelier (2006) and was joined the same year by JangHeung ArtPark; Gana Art Busan (2007); and, last year, Gana Art New York, Gana Art Gangnam and a second JangHeung Atelier. Both the scale of Gana in Korea—the largest gallery in the country, with more than 50 employees—and its standing in the international art world grant it a unique place in Seoul’s art community.

Gana’s staff includes art and design consultancy experts who also take on public art and corporate interior design projects such as brand identity and lobby design, counting some extremely large multinational corporations among their clients. The center has run a photo festival every year since 2001,

which, after a tenth and final installment next year, will be replaced by a design and architecture festival.

The wooden terrace that descends to the courtyard at the center of the Gana complex becomes the scene of open-air performances several times a year; at other times, its tables are a good place to enjoy one of the last outdoor coffees of the year and the rare silence that Gana’s location affords. Around the terrace stand undulating Korean pine trees and several sculptures.

Gestures and Expressions On display at Gana in Pyeongchang-dong until Nov 8 is “Portraits of Our Lives,” a group exhibition exploring non-lingual communication through facial expressions and bodily gestures. Paintings and sculptures in a variety of media share the exhibition space; some hiding around corners, others staring out from walls. On the ground floor is a display of designer furniture. Later in November, the gallery will be displaying works from its own extensive collection. In a typical year, Gana puts on a series of exhibitions of the work of top Korean and international artists. Check the website—www. ganaart.com—before you visit.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 29

Cultural Hot Spots

Neighborhood of Galleries and Café Gana Art Center is surrounded by other art landmarks. Just next door are the Total Museum of Contemporary Art (www.totalmuseum.org) and Kim Chong Yung Sculpture Museum (www.kimchongyung. com), while Seoul Auction (www.seoulauction.com) lies further around the corner. Up the hill are Gallery Sejul (www.sejul.com) and KIMI art café (www.kimiart.net).

Further afield in Pyeongchang-dong lies the Kimsou Museum, home of pioneering Korean modern artist Kim Sou. In and around the galleries and their elegant buildings are plenty of eateries and coffee shops, many of which enjoy equally splendid views over northern Seoul. Particularly worth a visit are Café Motte, in the building just next door to Gana’s exhibition spaces, and the café at KIMI. Café Motte takes its name from part of the name of Gana’s French architect—the “Wil” has not been discarded, however, and instead is used as the name of Gana’s restaurant. Star actor and musician Yoon Jong-sin, meanwhile, is about to open his own café at a former noodle restaurant near Gana, which looks set to attract a few more visitors to the vicinity.

Gana Art Center makes the perfect centerpiece to an excursion to Pyeongchang-dong. The quality of its exhibitions is unvaryingly high, and Wilmotte’s building is also well worth seeing in itself. The unique atmosphere of the neighborhood means it should not be omitted from any visit to Seoul. If you’re taking a taxi from Pyeongchang-dong back toward central Seoul, a stop at Buam-dong, another hillside neighborhood closer to the Gyeongbokgung Palace and with its own selection of galleries and cafés, is highly recommended. (Buses back from Pyeongchang-dong instead pass through a tunnel under Buam-dong.)

For a break from the busier center of Seoul and a half day enjoying some of the best of Korean and international art, heading to Gana Art Center is an ideal option.

Written by Ben Jackson Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo 30 SEOUL November 2009

1 2

1. Vincent van G in two and three dimensions 2. Some of Jean-Michel Wilmotte's great interiors

Additional Information

www.ganaart.com Tel. (02) 720-1020 Hours: Tue—Sun, 10am—7pm

Getting There

Take green bus No. 1020 or 1711 from outside Kyobo Book Center in Gwanghwamun or from Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Get off 5—10 minutes later in front of Lotte Apartments (the stop is announced in Korea as “Rotte Apateu Ap”). Cross the road and head up the hill, following the signposts to Gana Art Center.

Yeoksam Station

Gangnam Station

(Free parking is available)

Hotel Heaven

Sky-High Sophistication, Stratospheric Service Gangnam’s Park Hyatt Hotel Demonstrates Why the Sixth Star Was Invented

T

o arrive at the Park Hyatt Seoul is a perplexing experience. After passing streets lined by hotels with names emblazoned large and loud across their foreheads, you come to an anonymous glass façade.

The confusion is compounded when the first floor yields nothing but a valet parking service, a man at a computer terminal and a row of elevator doors.

Get whisked silently up to the 24th floor, however, and the story is different. Beyond an extensive sky lobby of understated but ultra-elegant orange leather chairs and Myanmar oak tables stretch the urban stream of Tancheon and the mountains of eastern Seoul in one direction, and the gleaming business centers of Gangnam in the other. Barely encasing the lobby are floor-to-ceiling glass windows, polished into oblivion, while at the far end, beyond the afternoon tea-takers, a solitary swimmer churns his way through a glass-lit pool.

32 SEOUL November 2009

This stunning space, floating above the city like a solid cloud, is the summit of one of Seoul’s two sixstar hotels.

Unswerving Commitment to Style Acclaimed Japanese design firm Super Potato is responsible for the glass shell and natural stone and wood interiors of Park Hyatt Seoul, the second hotel under the Park Hyatt brand in northern Asia (after the one in Tokyo). The hotel opened in 2005 and, with only 185 rooms, is unambiguous when it comes to putting quality before quantity. “We have five different categories of room, but people tend to find that they all feel like suites,” explains marketing communications manager Janet Lim. “One of our principles is to provide outstanding, personalized service to every one of our guests, not

3 4 2 1

1. Citrus - a healthy bar with classy wooden interior 2. Serious spa comfort 3. Park Hyatt’s breathtaking 24th floor swimming pool 4. In the bedroom understated elegance and unparalleled comfort

just those in executive-level rooms. That’s one of the reasons that the lobby is on the 24th and top floor: all of our guests can enjoy the best views in the hotel.”

And it is principles upon which the Park Hyatt is built: discretion (hence the lack of exterior signs); uncompromisingly high quality all the way down to the most basic materials; obsessively fresh ingredients in the kitchen; highly personalized service for every guest; outstanding architecture and interior design; small capacity; and abundant attention to guests. “We stick to these principles all the time, even at the expense of making a bigger margin,” says Lim. Park Hyatt is the most elite brand among Hyatt’s 750 hotels and resorts. There are currently 24 Park Hyatts worldwide, with 17 more under construction—one of them in Korea’s southeastern port city of Busan. Park Hyatt was named one of the top 10 domestic and international hotel brands in Condé Nast Traveler’s October 2004 Business and Travel Awards and in Global Traveler’s January 2005 awards issue, in addition to receiving a string of other awards. The brand’s global reputation makes Park Hyatt Seoul the preferred destination for many high-flying foreign visitors—around 60% of guests are from overseas. French film star Juliette Binoche reportedly questioned why she had not been put up at the Park Hyatt when, on a visit to Seoul, she happened to end up dropping in while being accommodated elsewhere. “We are most popular among those familiar with luxury brands and those working in the design and fashion industries,” says Lim. “Our principle of discretion even works against us a little in the domestic market, where people are used to more conspicuous displaying of brand names.”

Luxury at All Levels The understated but unswerving commitment to quality is apparent in all parts of the Park Hyatt: the guest rooms, suites, restaurants, spa, lobby, and even the corridors. Instead of taking the loud approach, the Park Hyatt waits for visitors to spend a night in its specially designed, extra-wide double feather beds, take a bath in its granite-walled, full glasswindowed bathrooms, have dinner at its remarkable Cornerstone restaurant or get treated at its ultra-elite, threeroom spa. The Park Deluxe, the closest thing to a standard room, is twice the size of rooms at a corresponding level in Travel & Culture SEOUL 33

Hotel Heaven

other hotels and has considerably higher ceilings. The bathroom occupies one third of the total space and is separated from the rest of the room by a glass wall, further increasing the roomy feel.

The suites—one Presidential, two Diplomatic and 35 Park—are what should be expected of suites in any six-star hotel: bigger, and filled with more and still higher-class designer furniture, fittings, jawdropping granite bathrooms and top-notch audiovisual equipment.

The non-suite rooms, though, are sumptuous enough that no one will regret not upgrading, and Park Hyatt’s outstanding service, as mentioned above, is extended to all guests.

Perfectionist Open Kitchen Park Hyatt’s rigid principles extend into and dominate the realm of the culinary, too. The open kitchen of its signature Cornerstone restaurant runs down the center of the dining area and is busy with chefs rolling pastry dough, brushing cookies, peeling sweet potatoes and slicing red peppers with sushi-esque precision. A bowl of meticulously peeled fresh figs waits next to potted rosemary plants.

Fresh fruit and vegetables sit in a glass larder and are replaced each and every day.

Below ground is the Timber House, a bar styled with wooden elements from Korean traditional hanok houses. Its trio of sushi/sake and soju, cocktail and whiskey bars keeps guests well watered as they listen to the Timber House’s live music performances and ensures that it remains a favorite nighttime haunt for Gangnam professionals. The 24th floor lobby is also home to the Lounge, serving light snacks, deserts, afternoon tea and plenty of beverages, including a range of fruit and vegetable health drinks custom-designed by Brazilian nutritionist Patricia Teixeira. The view from the lounge is truly outstanding, offering a great place to impress somebody on a date.

The Park Club spa, meanwhile, is small, ultra-elegant and exclusive, with a long membership waiting list. However, guests at the hotel, and even one-time spa users, are entitled to use the fabulous 24th floor pool, an opportunity that Lim highly recommends taking.

In addition to its fantastically convenient Gangnam location, the Park Hyatt offers a glimpse of the pinnacle of stylish accommodation and dining—and unparalleled service—in Seoul.

Written by Ben Jackson Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

34 SEOUL November 2009

1 2 3

1. Dinner is prepared in Cornerstone’s open-plan kitchen 2. Timber House - the place for an intimate bite of sushi and several drinks 3. 24th floor Lounge - the best skyhigh afternoon tea in Gangnam

More Information

http://seoul.park.hyatt.com Tel. (02) 2016-1234

Getting There

Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 1 & 2.

Limousine buses to Incheon International Airport leave from the Korea City Airport Terminal, near the Korea World Trade Complex and within walking distance of the Park Hyatt, from 5:20am to 8pm. The journey takes around 90 minutes.

Seoul Personalities

36 SEOUL November 2009

Park Il-hoon Director General of the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

Don’t think about where you came from, Just have a cup of tea.

Don’t think about where you’re going, Just have a cup of tea.

Don’t think about what life is, Just have a cup of tea.

We come into life empty-handed and leave the same way, So let’s just have a cup of tea and recite some sijo poetry.

These words, from poet Hwang Mu-ryong’s “Drinking Tea Fragrance,” are spoken partway through Park Il-hoon’s largely instrumental composition of the same name. Later on, a woman’s voice slowly sings a song of tea fragrance written by the Buddhist monk Tonggwang, her voice intertwining with the sounds of Korean traditional instruments. As well as being a composer of “tea music” and other forms of neotraditional Korean music (changjak gugak), Park is director general of the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts. One Wednesday afternoon, he brewed a bowl of hwangcha (“yellow tea,” a variety of fermented green tea) and granted an hour of his busy schedule to SEOUL.

A Career in Music Park Il-hoon is a veteran of the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts (NCKTPA), having joined right after graduating with a degree in music from prestigious Seoul National University in 1974. For the next 30 years, he rose through a variety of positions at NCKTPA, including research fellow, player and chief music master of the studio orchestra and director of the research department.

In the mid-1980s, Park was placed in charge of the design and building of the new NCKTPA complex, a handsome collection of buildings dating from 1987 and adjoining the equally impressive Seoul Arts Center in Seoul’s southern district of Seocho-gu. “I traveled around Europe for 100 days before the new NCKTPA was designed,” he says. “I looked at the best theaters and examined the architects’ plans. I was thus able to introduce some features that other modern Korean theaters did not have.” These include a triple-stage system, where two stages behind the foremost stage are used for rehearsals and can occasionally be incorporated

into performances; and a system whereby the foyer is located beneath the sloping floor of the auditorium, preventing foyer noise from interfering with acoustics in the auditorium itself.

Centuries of Continuity The NCKTPA in its current guise is only the most recent of a long chain of state musical institutions that stretches back all the way to Korea’s Silla period (57 BC—AD 935). During Silla and the ensuing Goryeo (918—1392) and Joseon (13921910) periods, music played a crucial role in state ceremonial affairs. “It was believed that music controlled people’s hearts and minds,” explains Park. “It was thus vitally important to have appropriate music played during ceremonies.

Palace music, likewise, aimed for a state of neutrality—junghwa—in order to balance the heart and mind of the king. It was neither fast nor slow, happy nor sad, exciting nor boring.”

Various traditional Korean instruments were believed to have different effects on the emotional state of those who played or listened to them: the

Travel & Culture SEOUL 37

Seoul Personalities

ancient geomungo, a six-stringed zither, was believed to stir feelings of compassion and benevolence and was played by seonbi (classical scholar-gentlemen) to alleviate the ascetic detachment brought on by hours of solitary study.

Percussion instruments, such as the various Korean traditional gongs and drums, were believed to produce an emotional state of excitement and hence used for military music and in agricultural folk tunes. Wooden percussion instruments, meanwhile, enabled their players to shed feelings of greed.

(Perhaps the most common wooden instrument heard today is the moktak, a hollow wooden handheld instrument played in Buddhist temples.)

Palace music was created using a balance of all these instruments, in order to achieve the aforementioned neutrality. Park grows more animated when talking about such aspects of Korean traditional music—though he now occupies the NCKTPA’s highest executive position, he is clearly still enamored with the roots and principles of Korea’s musical heritage.

Every major Korean traditional instrument is preserved by the NCKTPA, which counts numerous specialists in its Music Research Office charged with investigation, analysis and restoration of ancient instruments and the materials from which they are made.

Innovation Within Tradition One thing that differentiates Park from his premodern predecessors is the fact that he can describe himself as a “composer.” “All tunes and melodies were anonymous in premodern Korean times,” he explains. “No tune was ascribed to a single person; instead, it was handed down through the ages from one performer to another, constantly being developed, reinterpreted and polished in the process.” This anonymity sometimes worked to the advantage of those behind the creation and development of musical works, letting their compositions survive on merit alone rather than being linked to questions of social status or gender.

Neotraditional pieces, however, such as “Drinking Tea Fragrance,” are attributed to specific 38 SEOUL November 2009

composers, of which Park is one of Korea’s leading examples. The gathering strength of neotraditional Korean music comes after decades of influence from Western forms, beginning tentatively via China and intensifying through contact with German and Italian music via imperial Japan.

Modern Western composition techniques were first introduced to Korea around this time, leading to the appearance of the professional composer. The NCKTPA played a vital role in the institutional revival of traditional music following the establishment of the Republic of Korea, providing a means of continuing ancient traditions within the institutional structure of a modern nation-state.

Teaching Korean Music to Foreigners The NCKTPA also runs a Korean music and cultural school for foreigners of all backgrounds, from diplomatic envoys to exchange students. This semester, there are 77 foreign students in four classes: janggu (hourglass drum), gayageum (12-stringed zither), samulnori (percussion quartet) and daegeum (large transverse bamboo flute). Next year, the center plans to offer even more education for foreigners in Korea, reaching out to migrant workers and international spouses.

Thanks to the efforts of the NCKTPA, Korean traditional music looks set to continue gaining influence both in Korea and abroad.

Written by Ben Jackson Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Additional Information

The NCKTPA offers a large variety of traditional performances and classes throughout the year. To find out more, visit its website at www.gugak.go.kr.

Tel. (02) 580-3333

Getting There

Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Medical Tourism

Catching Some Z’s Seoul Sleep Clinic Uses Latest Techniques to Treat Sleep Disorders

S

leep apnea—characterized by pauses in breathing during sleep—is one of the world’s most common sleep disorders. For example, it is believed that one in 15 Americans suffer from it. What’s worse, many cases go untreated or even diagnosed, leading to much more serious health complications later on.

Located near the posh Apgujeong-dong area, Seoul Sleep Clinic is Korea’s foremost treatment center for sleep disorders. Stanford-educated sleep specialist Dr. Hong Il-hee, who founded Seoul Sleep Clinic in 2005 and has been practicing sleep medicine since 2003, used to be an ear, nose and throat specialist prior to an illuminating visit to the United States. “In the old days, we used laser surgery to cure snoring. When I was an ENT, I did this quite a bit, too, but I wasn’t satisfied. Then I saw what they were doing in the United States, and

40 SEOUL November 2009

I was surprised...When I founded a sleep lab, some of [the ENTs] called me a liar, but since 2003, 127 sleep labs have opened up in Korea. Even some of the doctors who called me a liar have their own sleep labs.”

With eight beds, two doctors and a psychologist, Seoul Sleep Clinic is Korea’s largest sleep lab, and it specializes in a variety of common sleep disorders, including sleep apnea, insomnia, “restless leg syndrome” (a disorder that affects 10% of Americans and 5% of Koreans) and narcolepsy. It takes pride in combating the Korean preference for surgery to do what is best for the patient’s condition. Says Hong, “We are about total care—we choose what to give the patient, medical [nonsurgical] treatment or surgical treatment. This is the characteristic of our clinic.”

OSAS The most common form of sleep apnea is Obstructive Sleep Apnea Syndrome, or OSAS. This is the result of blockages of the airway during sleep, most often due to the collapse of soft tissues along the airway. Hong uses an anatomical model to demonstrate. “As you sleep, the muscles in the throat relax, so the airway narrows.” The most common symptom is snoring, a sound caused by air as it rumbles down the obstructed airway.

According to Hong, the two most common triggers for OSAS are 1) aging (after the age of 40, the soft tissues in your throat loosen), and 2) obesity (which causes an excess of soft tissue in the throat and neck). The latter, in particular, can lead to a nasty vicious circle, Hong explains.

“You can’t sleep because you’re obese, so you eat at night. But you are tired in the day, so you don’t burn off as many calories, so you grow more obese.”

OSAS leads to sleep deprivation—you can’t breathe, so the body wakes up (quite thankfully!). This leads to daytime sleepiness, fatigue, and diminished concentration and memory. Your oxygen supply decreases, causing morning headaches, muscle tension and a dull feeling in the head. Worst of all, it leads to cardiovascular troubles such as hypertension, arrhythmia and an increased likelihood of strokes. “Snoring and apnea are not the real problem, but preventing cardiovascular problems and treating cognitive functions,” says Hong. “This is the goal.”

Helping You Sleep OSAS is treated by widening the airway—when this happens, deep sleep increases, oxygen increases, snoring and sleep apnea dissipate, and

cardiovascular function improves. Generally speaking, there are two ways to widen the airway: non-surgical medical treatment and surgical treatment.

Non-surgical treatment utilizes several different methods. According to Hong, sleep hygiene—for example, losing weight and maintaining regular sleep rhythms—is very important. So is avoiding alcohol and sedatives.

Particularly effective, however, is the use of continuous positive airway pressure, or CPAP. This typically involves wearing a facial mask as you sleep, which applies constant air pressure that splints the airway. How much pressure is required differs from person to person, but the correction rate is high. “The correction rate of CPAP is 99%,” says Hong. “It is the most popular treatment method.”

Another method sometimes employed is the use of oral devices such as mandibular repositioning devices, or MRDs, which push the lower jaw out, widening the airway.

Surgical methods are available, too. Hong explains, “With surgery, where an airway restriction is happening is important. Some have a nose problem, while others have a throat problem. It’s not easy finding all the restriction points.” Radiofrequency somnoplasty—which uses low-energy radiofrequency energy to reduce tissue volume and open the upper airway—is the preferred surgical tool, as it results in less burning than lasers.

Other surgical methods include reducing tongue size, hyoid advancement (which pushes the tongue forward) and maxillomandibular advancement. This last option, which surgically pushes forward a recessed chin, has a 95% success rate but is quite radical. It is also expensive, although as Hong points out, it’s much cheaper at Seoul Sleep Clinic than it is in the United States.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 41

Medical Tourism

Polysomnography At the heart of Seoul Sleep Center’s diagnostic process is polysomnography (PSG), a checkup for detecting sleep disorders by measuring physical and physiologic findings that arise as you sleep.

Naturally enough, these are mostly performed at night, usually as the patient spends the night in one of the sleep lab’s beds. The PSG consists of four tests—a sleep structure test, sleep respiration test, sleep movement test and cardiovascular test—all four of which can be performed in a single night.

The center has two floors of beds, each in its individual inn-like room, and a control room.

Hong says Seoul Sleep Clinic might have been the first private clinic in Korea to conduct PSG tests.

“After checking the PSG, we decide whether medical or surgical treatment is needed.”

language training, with work ongoing on an English-language homepage, brochures and other promotional materials.

Written by Robert Koehler Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Raising the Profile of Sleep Medicine Hong laments that at this stage, Korea’s consciousness about sleep disorders is pretty low, which is a pity given their prevalence. “In other countries, there is systemic support. But in Korea, there is no insurance reimbursement. On the other hand, the PSG costs US$3,000 in the United States.

Here, it costs just US$600.” He also notes that foreign patients can be covered by their home country’s insurance.

To make it easier for foreign patients to use the center, the staff have been undergoing English-

42 SEOUL November 2009

More Information T. (02) 511-0777 Homepage: www.sleepclinic.kr

Getting There Leave Exit 7 of Hakdong Station, Line 7, and walk straight for 150 meters.

Seoul of Zen

Fellow who tries to see “I”!

If I say that I saw another “I” in the eyes that I see with, Who would believe it?

“I” is not easy to see though being near you all the time.

Fellow who tries to see “I”!

“I” doesn't keep away from you, but you don't recognize yourself.

Who else would be to blame for it when it is because you don't see yourself?

Then what is this “I” like that is revealing itself clearly in going and coming?

The image in the mirror is not “I” nor is he who is looking at it.

“I” is always revealing itself clearly.

Why don't you break you own mirror?

Written by Master Soo Bool Sunim of Ahnkook Zen Center Translated by Boo Ahm (Song Soo-kyong)

44 SEOUL November 2009

Oriental Medicine

Deficiency Patterns in Oriental Medicine Part 3: Yang Deficiency Syndrome

T

he nature of existence can be summed up in the word “balance.” All existing matter (including all life forms) exists as long as a certain degree of balance can be maintained. In the last two articles we introduced Yin deficiency and Blood deficiency manifestations in the body and their health consequences.

Yin and Blood are considered to be within the materialized spectrum of the body. On the other side, Yang and Qi are within the energy spectrum, and they sustain the functional processes of all organs. In addition, they protect the body from external influences that might threaten the balanced state that we call health.

Yang represents the energy that is responsible for warming the body and activating bodily functions. Even though this warming and activating energy is needed in all parts of the body, there are certain organ groups that vitally depend on these energy properties to function well. These organ groups are the Spleen/Pancreas, the Kidneys and the Heart. Yang deficiency symptoms may vary according to the affected organ group, but the lack of hot Yang energy always leads to some symptoms of coldness, like cold hands or feet.

Kidney Yang is the basis of all Yang in the body. While you can have Yang deficiency in any organ system of the body, it is generally related to a root Kidney deficiency.

The basic Yang heat energy is considered to be generated by the so-called Myong Mun Fire, which emanates from the area of the lower back. The Myong Mun can be compared to the functions of the adrenal glands in Western medicine. The adrenals are beanshaped glands that are located on top of the kidneys and produce a variety of hormones like the “stress” hormones adrenaline and cortisone. The warmth of Kidney Yang is needed for proper sexual function and fertility, so a deficiency causes problems such as impotence, infertility, premature ejaculation and decreased sexual desire. Other Kidney Yang deficiency symptoms may include soreness or a cold sensation in the knees and lumbar regions, aversion to cold, cold limbs, "spiritual" fatigue, difficulty urinating, incontinence, loose morning stools and general edema.

The causes of Kidney Yang deficiency include chronic illness, excessive sexual activity, and an age-related decline in Kidney function. Additionally, cold temperatures and excessive consumption of cold drinks tend to weaken the Kidneys.

Spleen/Pancreas Yang Deficiency

Heart Yang Deficiency

The Spleen/Pancreas group, which represents digestive tract function, needs the hot Yang energy in order to transform digested foodstuff into utilizable energy and transport it to all parts of the body.

A Yang deficiency in these organs may impair the transformation and transportation function, causing various digestive problems such as lack of appetite, tiredness after eating, belching, flatulence, abdominal distension or loose stool, as well as listlessness and trouble waking up in the morning.

The primary cause of Spleen/Pancreas Yang deficiency is usually diet-related.

Eating excessive amounts of cold, frozen, raw or sweet food will damage the Spleen/Pancreas. Also, irregular eating habits like undereating/overeating, eating too quickly, or eating while working can damage these organ groups.

The Heart is a Yang-dependent organ. Heart Yang deficiency symptoms include spontaneous sweating, shortness of breath, heaviness in the chest, palpitations (often described as an awareness of one’s heartbeat), or a fluttering feeling, which can even lead to a heart attack. Because the Heart meridian goes down the arms, lack of Yang often expresses itself with cold hands.

Coldness is an important indicator for all kinds of Yang deficiencies. One should wear warm clothing and eat foods that have warming properties. Above all, though, one should avoid extremes and strive for balance. After all, a balanced life is a healthy life.

Kidney Yang Deficiency According to Oriental Medicine, the Kidney group is the organ in charge of producing and storing the “essences,” which are substances that play a vital role in aging well and living a long life with mental clarity. The Kidneys are also the core organs in charge of the reproductive functions in both men and women.

Dr. Raimund Royer (raimundroyer@jaseng. co.kr) is Korea’s only “Western” Oriental medical doctor and the medical director of the Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine’s International Clinic (www.jaseng.net).

Travel & Culture SEOUL 45

City Interview

Helping Little Tokyo Ichon Global Village Center Chief Yukiko Ishihara

T

he Yongsan neighborhood of Inchon is known as “Little Tokyo,” so not surprisingly, there is a need to cater to the special needs of the area’s Japanese community. Enter Yukiko Ishihara and the Ichon Global Village Center. Established in 2008, the Ichon Global Village Center provides a helping hand to Ichon’s foreign— and especially Japanese—community so that they can make the most of their time in Seoul.

From Japan to Britain to Busan to Seoul Ishihara, the head of Ichon Global Village Center, is a five-year resident of Korea. Her adventure in Korea began after moving here with her Korean husband, whom she met while studying English in Great Britain.

Initially settling down in the southeastern port city of Busan, she moved up to Seoul in 2007, and was named head of Ichon Global Village Center when it was founded in July 2008. Explaining the role of the Center, she says, “Like other global village centers, if local foreigners come to us with difficulties, we help to resolve them.”

Just as the Itaewon Global Village Center specializes in helping English-speaking foreigners, Ichon Global Village Center’s raison d’être is assisting local Japanese.

“According to the Japanese embassy, some 2,500 Japanese live in this area,” says Ishihara. Ichon’s Japanese population dates back to the 1970s, when Japanese businesspeople began settling in the area due to its proximity to the Japanese school (since moved to Gaepo-dong) and downtown Seoul, where many Japanese businesses were located. Ichon Global Village Center’s staff all speak Japanese, while Ishihara herself speaks, in addition to her native Japanese, Korean and English.

Still, this is Yongsan, so Ichon Global Village Center has more than just Japanese to worry about. “There are many other kinds of foreigners who live here, so sometimes they come here, too,” says Ishihara.

46 SEOUL November 2009

Less Complaints, More Info Like other foreigners adjusting to life in Seoul, Japanese often find basic things more challenging than they would at home, with the language barrier being a major hindrance. Says Ishihara, “Sometimes, things are broken in the home, so they come for help. A lot of times, they have problems with mail—they get pieces of mail, but they can’t read it, so they don’t know what it is.”

The nature of Seoul’s Japanese community, however, lends itself to fewer complaints than would be found at other Global Village Centers. “Most of the people who live here work for Japanese companies, so we tend to get fewer complaints,” explains Ishihara. “Instead, we get a lot of people who come to learn about Korean travel information or Korean cultural information. Since many Japanese come with families, including small babies, they often need information on Japanesespeaking hospitals.”

Indeed, a characteristic of Ichon Global Village Center is that it tries to be more family oriented. “Most of the people coming here tend to be housewives and students, because the husbands are often at work during the day,” says Ishihara. “So compared to other centers, we try to have programs families can enjoy.”

Korean Class and Cultural Events

taught by an experienced teacher. Classes meet twice a week for an hour and a half a class. Currently, there are 90 students enrolled—mostly Japanese housewives— with 15 students a class.

The center also hosts cultural programs, as well. “These are not regular programs, but rather season,” Ishihara says. “For example, last Chuseok, we made songpyeon , but this year, we made Korean rice cake.

Over 30 people turned up.” Cultural programs are sometimes held on the weekend to afford working families a chance to participate.”

A particular success was June’s Ichon Matsuri, a festival that allowed Koreans (and non-Japanese foreigners) a chance to sample Japanese culture. “It was the first one we’d done, and it was a huge success,” says Ishihara, noting that some 800 people participated. “We will do it again next year, too, and hope many people show up.”

Written by Robert Koehler Photographs by Ryu Seunghoo

MORE INFORMATION Hours: 9am to 6pm, Mon to Fri. T. (02) 796-2018.

Homepage: http://global.seoul.go.kr/ichon/

GETTING THERE Exit 4, Ichon Station, Line 4. Walk toward Hangang Mansion Apartments. The center is just opposite.

In order to help Japanese adjust, the center offers free Korean-language classes

Travel & Culture SEOUL 47

Event Calendar 11 SUN

MON

1

2

- 2009 Amazing Korean Table— World Feast of Gastronomy (throughout the entire city)

- Seoul International Quilt Festival (COEX) thru 4

8

9

- Ronn Branton—Jazz 7080 (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts)

- Prague Chamber Orchestra (Seoul Arts Center)

- Korean Museum, 100 Years in Remembrance (National Museum of Korea)

15

16

TUE

3

4

- Jun Eun-ja—Embroidering Fascination (NCKTPA)

11

- Being Gidon Kremer (Seoul Arts Center) - French Cinema Now (Seoul Art Cinema) thru 29 - Hwa Chub-Gong Muh Doh Hwa (Arko Arts Theater) thru 11

17

- The 6th 2009 Gunsan International Migratory Bird Festival (Gunsan-si, Jeollabuk-do) thru 15

French Cinema Now—Dernier Maquis

24

- Kaori Muraji Guitar Recital (Seoul Arts Center)

- 8th Off Daehangno Festival (Samillo Changgo Theatre) - Sarah Moon—Living Legend of Fashion Photography (Seoul Arts Center)

18

25

- Noon Recital with Hwang Byung-ki (National Theater of Korea)

- Seoul Grand Sale (throughout the entire city)

30 - dasigaehang (Incheon Art Platform)

Emerging Korean Artists in the World 2009

48 SEOUL November 2009

1

1

- Prince Hodong by Soo-ho Kook & Korea National Ballet (Seoul Arts Center) thru 22

22 29

- The World Festival of National Theaters (National Theater of Korea)

10

- In the Flower Garden (63 Sky Art) - The Seoul Art Exhibition 2009 (Seoul Museum of Art)

City_net Asia 2009

WED

2

*For detailed info on some events, go to “Goings On Around Town.” orange color letters indicate closing date of event. -Ed

THU

FRI

5

6

- Asiana International Short Film Festival (Cine Cube) thru 10 - Piaf (Seoul Arts Center) thru 16 - Opera: Carmen (Seoul Arts Center) thru 8

12

SAT

7

- Kang Ji-man—Being in Fog (Erl Gallery) thru 6

13 - Seoul International Winter Sports Expo (COEX) thru 15

- Partricia Barber—Live in Korea (Goyang Oulimnuri Arts Complex) - The 12th Seopyeongje Boseong Sori Festival (Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do) thru 8

19

- Opera: La Forza Del Destino (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts) thru 22

26 - Hwang Jini (NCKTPA) thru 29 - The 4th Seoul Int’l Fancy Food Festival 2009/The 8th Seoul Int’l Café Show 2009 (COEX) thru 29

20 - Mischa Maisky Cello Recital (Seoul Arts Center) - The 13th Paju Jangdan Soybean Festvial (Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do) thru 22

27 - Yeosu Firework Festival (Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do)

Performances - The Last Empress (National Theater of Korea) thru Dec 27

14 - Hi-Seoul Walking Festival 2009 (Seoul Plaza & Hangang Park) thru 15 - Myriade Wave Concert (Bukchon Changwoo Theater)

Kang Ji-man—Being in Fog

Long Running Performances, Exhibits and Events

21

- Menopause (Myeong-dong Haechi Hall) thru Jan 31, 2010

Art Exhibitions - Bae Bien-u—Solo Exhibition (National Museum of Art, Deoksugung) thru Dec 6 - Beginning of New Era (Former Defence Security Command Site in Sogyeokdong) thru Dec 6

- Hanna Chang—Brahms Cello Sonata (Seoul Arts Center) - Seoul Performing Arts Festival (theaters in Seoul)

28

- Emerging Korean Artists in the World 2009 (Seoul Arts Center) thru Dec 6 - Scenes of Banquets and Ceremonies of the Joseon Period (National Museum of Korea) thru Dec 6

Events - Seoul Bike Show 2010 (COEX), Dec 4—6

- Steve Barakatt— Sweet November (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts)

Bae Bien-u—Solo Exhibition

- The 2nd CJ Picture Book Festival (Korea Foundation Cultural Center) thru Dec 24

Beginning of New Era

Travel & Culture SEOUL 49

Upcoming Events

PREVIEW Emerging Korean Artists in the World 2009

This is a wonderful and rare opportunity to see the work of young ethnic Korean artists who, despite receiving attention for their activities overseas, are relatively unknown in Korea.

The selected work of 24 artists from eight countries— Germany, the United States, Great Britain, Japan, France, Sweden, China and Argentina—will be on display. Diversity is the name of the game, with a wide range of styles owing to the medley of nationalities, cities and cultural/social environments. p.58

Asiana International Short Film Festival (AISFF 2009)

Korea’s one and only competitive international short film festival opens in Seoul for its seventh year. This year, some 2,027 films from 82 countries were submitted to the festival, marking a new record. A particularly unique program is the “In the Air Program,” in which selected films from the International Competition are shown to passengers aboard Asiana flights. It’s a great place to experience cinematic trends and cinematic diversity. p.61

Being Gidon Kremer— The Rise & Fall of the Classical Musician

has confined jazz vocals since Ella Fitzgerald with her own unique and poetic style that crosses the spectrum from swing to bop. She will be joined by her band, the Patricia Barber Quartet. p.55

Ballet: Prince Hodong

Director Kook Soo-ho’s “Prince Hodong” adheres to the principle that “the most Korean of things are the most universal.” Through the language of ballet, “Prince Hodong” tells a tragic tale of love, set in the ancient Korean kingdom of Goguryeo. Wonderful costume design by Jerome Kaplan beautifully captures the national spirit in this highlight performance by the Korea National Ballet. p.53

13th Paju Jangdan Soybean Festival

Held in the historic Imjingak Square near the DMZ, this growing festival celebrates one of Paju’s most celebrated agricultural products, the bean. Grown in the pristine Jangdan region, the beans are of such high quality that they were served to the kings of Joseon. The festival will feature cultural performances, bean cuisine (including soy milk), cooking contests and, of course, sales of bean products. p.59

Latvian virtuoso violinist Gidon Kremer and his Kremerata Baltica chamber group are joined by violin and piano duo Aleksey Igudesman and Richard Hyung-Ki Joo for a night of great music and high comedy. This is actually a twopart show, with Kremer starting things off with a classical performance, to be followed by a comic (and musical!) look at his life by Igudesman and Joo, whose performances have earned over 15 million hits on Youtube. This is definitely not your father’s classical music concert. p.53

Hwa Chub-Gong Muh Doh Hwa

Patricia Barber—Live in Korea

Seopyeonje Boseong Sori Festival

The New York Times called the voice of American jazz singer Patricia Barber “a low-vibrato alto on perpetual rhythm and timbre alert,” while Time Magazine called her personality “a cross between Diana Krall and Susan Sontag.” In Korea for the second time, Barber points the way forward for 21st century jazz, breaking the musical straitjacket that

50 SEOUL November 2009

Choreographer Yoon Mira first presented her most recent work, "Hwa Chub-Gong Muh Doh Hwa," in 2008. The piece describes the process of Gongmu (or “empty dance,” in Chinese characters) crossing the bridge of flowers to reach a state of nothingness and emptiness. This is a lyrical piece with solo, duet and group dances by dancers dressed as flowers that are intertwined, while the flow of life is expressed through a flow of colors. p.56 The lovely southwestern town of Boseong is one of the heartlands of Korean pansori music. Likened to American bluegrass music, the lyrical storytelling of pansori is a window into the Korean soul. This festival will feature pansori performances from performers young and old, including some of the best singers in the business. p.55

NCKTPA’s “Hwang Jini”

An icon of Korean traditional culture, Hwang Jini was the most famous of old Korea’s gisaeng , or female entertainers, and a renowned poet in her own right. Here she is reborn in the form of poetry, calligraphy, painting, music, song and dance, courtesy of NCKTPA. This performance focuses on her intimate friendship with the scholar Seo Gyeong-deok and the folk songs of the Seoul/Gyeonggi-do region. See the NCKTPA’s Folk Music Troupe, Dance Troupe, Court Music Troupe and Theater Troupe at their very best. p.56

Scenes of Banquets and Ceremonies of the Joseon Period

Part of the National Museum of Korea’s centennial celebrations, this special exhibit gives us a chance to examine celebratory rites and banquets as they appeared in Korean traditional culture through archival paintings and artwork from the period. Koreans have been partying it up on memorable occasions for millennia; in the Joseon era, such festivities were carried out in accordance with Confucian decorum. In particular, this exhibit shows the diverse banquets and festivities thrown by the royal court, aristocracy and common people. p.52

The Last Empress

The musical “The Last Empress” sublimates the tragic tale of Empress Myeongseong into high art. One of the most powerful women in Korean history, Empress Myeongseong saw Korea through a dramatic period of modernization, imperial threats and internal strife before she was assassinated by the Japanese in 1895. Written in 1995 to mark the centennial of the empress’s death, “The Last Empress” was the first domestically produced musical to top the one million mark at the box office and even had a run on Broadway. p.54

Seoul Bike Show

The Seoul Bike Show is one of the biggest events on the Korean bike enthusiast’s calendar. For three days, COEX plays host to some of the world’s best bikes and bike equipment. Some 200 brands will be on display, so if you want to see the latest the biking world has to offer, this is your chance. p.60

Disney on Ice—Disneyland Adventure

Disney on Ice’s latest production, “Disneyland Adventure,” comes to Seoul and Ilsan this December. Featuring some of the world’s greatest figure skaters, “Disneyland Adventure” uses music and content from your favorite Disney movies in an on-ice spectacle that’s the next best thing to visiting Disneyland yourself. If you’ve got kids, this is one event you won’t want to miss. p.60

Seoul Performing Arts Festival 2009

SPAF 2009 returns for its ninth season and will feature about 40 breathtaking performances, including Korean works along with Russian, Hungarian, British, French, Italian, Polish, Norwegian, Canadian, Australian, Japanese and Chinese presentations. The theme for SPAF 2009 is "Analog & Digilog." This will highlight the fundamental elements of performing arts from the past as well as draw attention to the possibilities of the present and future genres indicative of the performing arts. p.54

Travel & Culture SEOUL 51

Goings on Around Town

Museums Korean Museum, 100 Years in Remembrance

Special Exhibition Gallery, National Museum of Korea

Thru Nov 8

Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2.

Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

The Life and Painting of Jeong Seon Fine Arts Gallery, National Museum of Korea

Thru Nov 22

Free (02) 2077-9487 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2.

Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Seoul, The City of Movies

Cheong Gye Cheon Museum

Thru Nov 22

Free (02) 2286-3410 Wangsimni Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line), 2 & 5, Exit 7.

Transfer to maeul bus No. 3 or 8 and get off at Seoul Metropolitan Facilities Management Corporation.

Three Foreigners' Reminiscences of Seoul Seoul Museum of History

Thru Nov 8

Adults (ages 20—64): 700 won, Others: free (02) 724-0114 Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 4. Walk 300m.

Daily Life of Man

Durumea Museum, Gyeonggi-do

Thru Nov 15

Adults: 3,000 won, Youths: 2,500 won, Children: 2,000 won (031) 958-6101~2 It takes an hour to get from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Uijeongbu. Transfer to bus No. 32 or 32-1 and get off in front of the Supreme Court Library of Paju. Go to the left side and walk 1km in the direction of Chorigol.

Ma-han, a Breath of History Jeonju National Museum

Thru Nov 29

Free (063) 223-5651 It takes two or three hours to get from Seoul to Jeonju by express bus. Take a cab from there. It takes 20 more minutes.

Fragrance—Timeless Enchantment Ewha Womans University Museum

Thru Jan 15, 2010

Free (02) 3277-3152 Ewha Womans Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 2. Walk straight and pass the school gate. The museum is located on your left.

Da Vinci's Science Invention in Future Gwacheon National Science Museum

Thru Mar 1, 2010 Adults: 11,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Kindergartners: 9,000 won (070) 8631-5061, www. davincikorea.co.kr Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 5.

Classical Music 2009 Schubert Project— TheSchubertiade Kumho Art Hall

Every Thurs in Nov at 8pm R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won (02) 6303-7700 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk 200m in the direction of Seodaemun.

Lee Ri-ja Special Exhibition— Hanbok, Joining Line and Color National Folk Museum of Korea

Thru Nov 30

Free (02) 3704-3155 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1 or Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along Samcheongdong street. The museum is located on the left.

Green bus No. 11 is available.

Scenes of Banquets and Ceremonies of the Joseon Period Special Exhibition Gallery, 1st flr., National Museum of Korea

Thru Dec 6

Free (02) 2077-9280 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2.

Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra

Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si

Nov 6, 8pm

R: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won, B: 20,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Prague Chamber Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 9, 8pm

R: 60,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 720-3933 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

52 SEOUL November 2009

Mischa Maisky Cello Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 20, 8pm

R: 140,000 won, S: 110,000 won, A: 80,000 won, B: 50,000 won (02) 599-5743 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Gil Shaham & Sejong Soloists

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Dec 11, 7:30pm

VIP: 110,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 50,000 won (02) 399-1114~6 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Dance

Opera: Carmen

Opera House, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 5—7, 7:30pm / Nov 8, 5pm

Tango: Tango Seduction

VIP: 250,000 won, R: 200,000 won, S: 150,000 won, A: 100,000 won, B: 50,000 won (02) 2650-7481~2 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429 The Novosibirsk State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre will be performing the Bizet classic “Carmen,” the tragic tale of love and betrayal in 19th century Spain. This production is a true spectacle brought together by some 250 people, with everyone and everything—from the lead actors to the props—brought in from Russia. Legendary names like director Alexei Stepanyuk, conductor Evgeny Volynsky, set director Igor Grinevich, mezzosoprano Agunda Kulaeva and tenor Oleg Videman make this an unforgettable evening of high culture. The Novosibirsk State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre has the distinction of being both the largest and most advanced theater in Russia.

Being Gidon Kremer

Chungmu Art Hall

Nov 10—13, 8pm Nov 14—15, 3pm, 7pm R: 88,000 won, S: 66,000 won, A: 44,000 won (02) 318-4304 Sindang Station, Line 6, Exit 9. Walk 50m in the direction of Dongdaemun Stadium.

Hanna Chang—Brahms Cello Sonata Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 21, 8pm

VIP: 110,000 won, R: 99,000 won, S: 77,000 won, A: 55,000 won, B: 33,000 won (02) 749-1300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Kaori Muraji Guitar Recital with Richard Yongjae O’Neill Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 22, 8pm

R: 80,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won 1577-5266 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Adults—R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, Youths—R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won (02) 3673-2561~4, www.spaf.or.kr Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Nov 18—21, 7:30pm / Nov 22, 3pm

Haydn Philharmonie

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 26, 8pm

R: 160,000 won, S: 120,000 won, A: 90,000 won, B: 60,000 won, C: 40,000 won (02) 599-5743 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Nov 19—20, 7:30pm / Nov 21, 3pm, 7:30pm / Nov 22, 5pm

Nov 14, 7pm / Nov 15, 3pm

Opera House, Seoul Arts Center

R: 150,000 won, S: 120,000 won, A: 80,000 won, B: 40,000 won (02) 318-4301 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Sejong M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Ballet: Prince Hodong by Soo-ho Kook & Korea National Ballet

Nov 10, 8pm

Opera: La Forza del Destino

Music, Dance & Art: SPAF 2009— Échos

VVIP: 100,000 won, VIP: 80,000 won, R: 60,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won, C: 5,000 won (02) 587-6181 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Modern Dance: TODES

Walkerhill Theater, Sheraton Grande Walkerhill Hotel

Thru Mar 25, 2010, 8pm (Mon—Thu) / 5:20pm, 8pm (Fri—Sat) R: 90,000 won, S: 70,000 won (02) 455-5000 Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 2. Cross the road, turn left and take the hotel shuttle bus.

VIP: 120,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won, B: 20,000 won (02) 399-1783~6 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 53

Goings on Around Town

Musicals Namhan Sanseong (Namhan Fortress)

Seongnam Arts Center, Seongnam-si

Thru Nov 4, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7:30pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun) VIP: 110,000 won, R: 77,000 won, S: 55,000 won, A: 33,000 won (031) 783-8000 Imae Station, Bundang Line, Exit 1.

Piaf

Towol Theater, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 5—16, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Nov 12) R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 744-4011 Jongno 5-ga Station, Line 1, Exit 1. Walk 30m along 5-ga Pharmacy alley.

The Last Empress

Main Hall 'Hae', National Theater of Korea

Nov 28—Dec 27, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun & holidays) VIP: 110,000 won, R: 90,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 40,000 won (Nov 28—Dec 13) VIP: 120,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won (Dec 15—27) (02) 2250-5900 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2 or take yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

1544-1555 Yangjae Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk 200m in the direction of Nambu Bus Terminal. Turn left along Kumkang Shoe MFG bldg. Walk 150m and turn left.

Hedwig

KT&G Sangsang Art Hall

Nov 14—Feb 28, 2010, 8pm (Tue— Thu) / 7pm, 9:30pm (Fri) / 4pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm, 6pm (Sun) R: 55,000 won, S: 45,000 won (Tue—Thu, Sun) / R: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won (Fri—Sat) (02) 3485-8700 Samseong Station, Line 2, Exit 2. Walk 100m.

The Phantom of the Opera Charlotte Theater

Thru Aug 8, 2010, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 8pm (Sat) / 2pm, 7pm (Sun & holidays)

Thru Nov 4

Admission depends on program (02) 2280-4115~6, www.ntok.go.kr Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2 or take yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Non-Verbal Mask Play: Bahnhof Theater 'The Other'

Nov 14—Jan 31, 2010, 8pm (Tue— Thu) / 3pm, 8pm (Fri) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun) 40,000 won (02) 751-9607 Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 6. Walk for two minutes and you will find M-Plaza on your right.

Hairspray

Kepco Art Center

Nov 28—Feb 7, 2010, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7:30pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) R: 80.000 won, S: 60.000 won, A: 40,000 won 54 SEOUL November 2009

Daehangno Theater

Oct 28—Nov 22, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) Adults: 20,000 won, Youths: 15,000 won (02) 764-7462 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Walk 300m.

8th Off Daehangno Festival Samillo Changgo Theatre

Thru Nov 29, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun) Adults: 20,000 won, Students: 15,000 won 1544-1555, 1588-7890, http://club.cyworld.com/ off-festival Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 10. Walk straight and turn the corner. The theater is located on your left.

Theater National Theater of Korea

Myeong-dong Haechi Hall (M-Plaza, 5th flr.)

A Spanish Play

Peak—VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A; 50,000 won, B: 40,000 won Regular—VIP: 120,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 40,000 won (02) 501-7888 Jamsil Station, Lines 2 & 8, Exit 3. Walk straight beside Lotte Dept. Store and cross the road. Walk straight and turn right.

The World Festival of National Theaters

Menopause

Admission depends on program (02) 3673-2561~4, www.spaf.or.kr

Thru Nov 15, 8pm (weekdays) / 4pm, 7pm (Sat) / 4pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) Adults: 20,000 won, Students: 15,000 won (02) 764-7462 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Go straight. Turn left along Marronnier Park and turn left again.

Seoul Performing Arts Festival (SPAF 2009) Arko Arts Theater, Daehangno Arts Theater, Seoul Arts Center, Sejong Center, Myeongdong Theater & Namsan Arts Center

Thru Nov 21

SPAF 2009—Therese Raquin Arko Arts Theater & Naon Theater

Nov 4—8 & Nov 11—29, 8pm (weekdays) 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 4pm (Sun) 30,000 won (02) 766-6925 Arko Arts Theater—Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2.

Turn left and pass by Marronnier Park. The center is located on your right. / Naon Theater—Hansung Univ. Station, Line 4, Exit 5. Turn around and walk along Dongsomun-ro. Turn right at Hyehwa Rotary and walk straight. Once you pass the Hyehwadong Community Service Center, cross the road.

Concerts Jim Brickman—Beautiful World

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Nov 1, 8pm

VIP: 100,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 60,000 won, A: 40,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 3463-2466 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Patricia Barber—Live in Korea

Kim Gun-mo—Soul Groove

Nov 7, 7pm

Dec 5, 7pm / Dec 6, 5pm

Goyang Oulimnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si R: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won 1577-7766 Wondang Station, Line 3, Exit 4. Walk in the direction of the underground motorways. Turn left and walk 15 minutes through the alley of Oulim Apt.

Olympic Hall, Olympic Park

R: 110,000 won, S: 99,000 won, A: 77,000 won, B: 55,000 won (02) 720-8500 Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3.

New York Harlem Singers of Christmas in Korea Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Dec 5, 8pm

R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won, B: 20,000 won (031) 932-8370 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Korean Music Four Colors of Autumn

Main Hall 'Hae', National Theater of Korea

Nov 4, 8pm

R: 50,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 2280-4115~6 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2 or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Guns N' Roses

Gymnasium, Olympic Park

Dec 13, 7pm

Standing/R: 132,000 won, S: 110,000 won (02) 3141-3488 Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3.

12th Seopyeonje Boseong Sori Festival

Boseong Indoor Gymnasium & Seopyeonje Boseong Sori Hall, Boseonggun, Jeollanam-do

Nov 7—8

Free (061) 852-5225~6, www. boseong.go.kr/sorifastival It takes four hours to get from Seoul to Gwangju by express bus. Transfer to bus for Boseong.

Ronn Branton—Jazz 7080 Sejong M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Nov 8, 3pm

Myriade Wave Concert

R: 50,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 888-2698, 0650 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Bukchon Changwoo Theater

Thru Nov 14 (Tue—Wed, Fri—Sat), 7:30pm 5,000 won (02) 747-3809 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Walk straight until you see the stone wall of Changdeokgung Palace. Turn left and pass Wonseo Park. The theater is located on the left alley.

Steve Barakatt—Sweet November

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Nov 28, 7:30pm

R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 318-4301 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Meeting the Masters—Ha Kyu-il Eric Benet

Yonsei Univ. Auditorium

Dec 19, 7pm

R: 99,000 won, S: 88,000 won (02) 563-0595 Sinchon Station, Line 2, Exit 3. The auditorium is located on the Yonsei Univ. campus.

Yuhki Kuramoto & Friends—Merry Christmas Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Dec 25, 8pm

Cho Young Pil Concert KINTEX, Ilsan

Dec 5, 7pm VVIP: 130,000 won, VIP: 120,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 60,000 won, B: 40,000 won 1588-3154 Daehwa Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Transfer to shuttle bus.

R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 751-9606~10 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Yeakdang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

Nov 15, 3pm

A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5.

Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Noon Recital with Hwang Byung-ki Main Hall 'Hae', National Theater of Korea

Nov 24, 11am

10,000 won (02) 2280-4115~6 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2 or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

74th Creative Music Troupe Regular Recital—Taepyeongga Umyeondang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

Dec 3—4, 7:30pm

A: 10,000 won, B: 8,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5.

Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 55

Goings on Around Town

PAN-AD

Korean Dance Jun Eun-ja—Embroidering Fascination

Umyeondang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

Nov 3, 7:30pm

8,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5.

Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

SPAF 2009—Hwa Chub-Gong Muh Doh Hwa Arko Arts Theater

Nov 10, 8pm / Nov 11, 8pm R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won (02) 3673-2561~4, www.spaf.or.kr Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Turn left and pass

by Marronnier Park. The theater is located on your left.

Ritual of Prayer for Passage into the Next Life & Jindo Cleansing Exorcism

Theater Pungnyu, Korea Heritage Cultural Foundation bldg.

Nov 13, 7:30pm

Free (02) 3011-2178~9 Seolleung Station, Line 2, Exit 8. Walk in the direction of Gangnam-gu Office. The theater is located next to the Ramada Hotel.

Traditional Performing Arts

Nov 24, 7:30pm

8,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5.

Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Korean Theater

Kim Eun-i—To the Home of Dance Umyeondang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

Nov 17, 7:30pm

8,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5.

Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Kim On-gyeong—Dance Performance

Umyeondang, National Center for Korean

NCKTPA’s 'Hwang Jini'

Yeakdang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

Nov 26—27, 7:30pm Nov 28—29, 5pm

S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won (02) 580 -3333 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Art Exhibitions 2009 Gwangju Design Biennale Hwa Chub-Gong Muh Doh Hwa

56 SEOUL November 2009

Design Biennale Gwangju Biennale Hall, Gwangju Museum of Art

Thru Nov 4

Throughout the exhibition period—Adults: 20,000 won, Youths: 15,000 won, Children: 10,000 won / One day—Adults: 9,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Children: 3,000 won (062) 608-4114, www.design-biennale.org It takes about three and a half hours to get from Seoul to Gwangju by express bus. Take a cab from the terminal. It takes 10 more minutes.

Swedish Footprints

Paintings, Textiles & Ceramics The Korea Foundation Cultural Center

Thru Nov 7

Free (02) 734-6111~3 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk along Samcheong-dong Street. The gallery is located on your right.

Free (02) 2151-6500 City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9. Walk 5 minutes.

Ji Yong-hyun—Dawn of Chaos Painting UNC Gallery

Thru Nov 8

Korea On Foot Photo Exhibition

Free (02) 733-2798 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk straight along the stone wall. Turn right in front of Ran Studio.

Photography Gallery M

Portrait of Our Lives

Free (02) 2273-5066, 2277-2437 Euljiro 3-ga Station, Lines 2 & 3, Exit 11. Turn left at the corner and walk 4 minutes.

Thru Nov 8

Thru Nov 4

Seoul International Quilt Festival Quilt Festival Hall D, COEX

Nov 2—4

Three days—33,000 won, One day—15,000 won (031) 785-5419, www.siqf.com Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Kang Ji-man—Being in Fog Painting Erl Gallery

Thru Nov 6 Free (02) 516-7573 Sinsa Station, Line 3, Exit 8. Walk 100m toward Yongdong Bridge. Turn left in front of J-Tower and walk along Garosu-gil. Turn right in front of Mirae Obstetrics.

Painting Gana Art Center

3,000 won (02) 720-1020 Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Transfer to bus No. 1020 or 1711 and get off at Lotte Apartment. Walk in the direction of Seoul Auction.

Portraits of Shoes, Stories of Feet Modern Art

Thru Nov 8 Adults: 5,000 won, Students: 3,000 won (02) 737-7650 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk in the direction of Seodaemun. Turn right at the alley between the Salvation Army Hall and the Seoul History Museum and walk 300m.

Flexible Aura Modern Art Brain Factory

Thru Nov 11 Free (02) 725-9520 Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along the west side of the walls of Gyeongbokgung Palace. You will find Brain Factory on the corner at the first traffic light.

In the Flower Garden Painting 63 Sky Art

Thru Nov 15 Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 11,000 won, Children: 10,000 won (02) 789-6363 Yeouinaru Station, Line 5, Exit 4. Walk 80m in the direction of MBC.

Sekyung Lee—Hair on the White Porcelain

Kumho Art Studio, Artists' Workshop & Exhibition 2009

Thru Nov 7

Thru Nov 15

Porcelain Gallery 2

Workshop & Exhibition Kring

Free (02) 3448-2112 Cheongdam Station, Line 7, Exit 9. Walk 10—15 minutes. The gallery is located in the Nature Poem bldg. on your right.

Free (02) 557-8898, www.kring.co.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exit 3. Walk 200m in the direction of Hangnyeoul Station.

The Seoul Art Exhibition 2009 Craft Seoul Museum of Art

Thru Nov 15

Adults: 700 won, Youths: 300 won, Others: Free Weekdays: (02) 120, Holidays & Nights: (02) 2124-8800 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk 5 minutes.

Han Sun-hyun—Painting a Goat's Dream Painting Samtoh Gallery

Thru Nov 18

Free (02) 3675-3737 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Turn around and walk one minute.

The gallery is inside the Samtoh bldg.

Insun Choi—Solo Exhibition

Painting Gallery Yeh

Thru Nov 19 Free (02) 542-5543 Sinsa Station, Line 3, Exit 8. Go straight and turn left at the intersection.

Walk along Garosu-gil.

The gallery is located next to Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf.

City_net Asia 2009 Modern Art Seoul Museum of Art

Thru Nov 29

Adults: 700 won, Youths: 300 won, Others: Free Weekdays: (02) 120, Holidays & Nights: (02) 2124-8800 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk 5 minutes.

The Imaginary Line

Media Art, Installation Art Gallery Hyundai

Thru Nov 15

Travel & Culture SEOUL 57

Goings on Around Town dasigaehang

Photography & Media Art Incheon Art Platform

Thru Nov 30

Free (032) 760-1003 Incheon Station, Line 1. Walk 5 minutes in the direction of Jungbu Police Station.

Emerging Korean Artists in the World 2009 Modern Art Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 5—Dec 6

2,000 won (02) 580-1300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Sarah Moon—Living Legend of Fashion Photography Photography V-Gallery, Seoul Arts Center

Thru Nov 29

Adults: 8,000 won, Youths: 6,000 won, Children: 4,000 won (02) 710-0762, www.sarahmoonkorea.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Paris-based fashion photographer Sarah Moon is best known for her hauntingly dreamlike images. Indeed, the living l e g e n d ’s p h o t o g r a p h s s o m e t i m e s appear more like paintings than photos.

Somewhere between art and fashion, her images manage to capture the mystery and beauty of life and frequently draw from stories of theology, mythology and fantasy. Her photos are open to unlimited interpretations, made possible by Moon’s experience as a model, photographer and film producer. This exhibit, featuring 160 works over 30 years, is a must-see for any self-respecting photography buff.

Jean Prouvé

Design Daelim Museum

Thru Nov 29

Adults: 4,000 won, Students: 2,000 won (02) 720-0667 Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 4. Walk 5 minutes in the direction of the Blue House.

Yoo Bong-sang—Solo Exhibition Painting Gangnam Space, Gallery Hyundai

Re-Discovery CoBrA

Group Exhibition Die Galerie

Thru Dec 1

Free (02) 3447-0048~9 Gangnam-gu Office Station, Line 7, Exit 4. Walk in the direction of Cheongdam Intersection. Turn right at the alley of the Mnet bldg. Walk 50m and turn left at the KUHI restaurant alley.

Beautiful Bridge

Installation Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center

Nov 24—Dec 6

Adults: 2,000 won, Youths: 1,000 won (02) 580-1300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5.

Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12 or bus No. 4429.

Bae Bien-u—Solo Exhibition

Photography National Museum of Art, Deoksugung

Thru Dec 6

Adults: 6,000 won, Youths: 4,000 won, Children: 2,500 won (02) 2022-0644 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 2 or Line 2, Exit 12.

The museum is located inside of Deoksugung Palace.

Nov 10—29

Free (02) 519-0800 Apgujeong Station, Line 3, Exit 2. Walk 500m. Turn right and walk 600m. Turn left and walk 800m past the LG Fashion shop.

Thru Dec 6

Nov 4—29

Adults: 2,000 won, Youths: 1,000 won (02) 736-4371, 4410 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Turn left at the exit.

Turn left again in front of the Post Office.

58 SEOUL November 2009

Adults: 3,000 won, Youths: 2,000 won, Children: 1,000 won (02) 425-1077 Mongchontoseong Station, Line 8, Exit 2. Inside the Gate of Peace, walk 200m to the right.

Seoul Design Festival—Design for Dinner Design Festival Hall C, COEX

Dec 2—6

Online reservation required (02) 2262-7192, 7194, 7199, www.designfestival.co.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Sun Mu—Korea Now

Painting Gallery, KT&G Sangsang Madang

Thru Dec 9

Free (02) 330-6200 Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 5. Turn left and go two blocks.

Walk through the Walkable Street on your right. Cross the road and go straight. The hall is located next to Luxury Su.

African Shona Sculpture—Mysteries of the Black Soul Thru Dec 10

Former Defence Security Command Site in Sogyeok-dong (aka Gimusa)

Ink Painting Savina Museum

Thru Dec 6

Sculpture Gate Gallery

Beginning of New Era

Yoo Geun-taek—Sketches of All Creation

Modern Art SOMA Museum of Art

Free (02) 2188-6227 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1 or Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along Samcheongdong street. The bldg. is located on the right.

Free (02) 3673-1006 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 2. Take maeul bus No. 2 and get off in front of the Saudi Embassy.

The Meaning of Meals, eight stories Modern Art Aram Art Galley, Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si

Thru Dec 27

3,000 won (031) 960-0180 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Prescription by 18 Doctors

Collection Highlights Modern Art National Museum of Contemporary Art

It takes an hour to get from Nambu Bus Terminal to Juksan Terminal by bus. Take a cab from there.

Thru Sep 30, 2010

6th Gunsan International Migratory Bird Festival

Free (02) 2188-6038 Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

Nov 11—15

Gunsan Migratory Bird Observatory, Gunsan-si, Jeollabuk-do Free (063) 453-7213~4, www.gsbird.co.kr It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Gunsan by express bus.

Festivals

13th Paju Jangdan Soybean Festvial

Free (02) 3289-4399 Guro Digital Complex Station, Line 2, Exit 6.

Walk 300m.

2009 Amazing Korean Table—World Feast of Gastronomy

Free (031) 940-5281, 5288, http://kong.paju.go.kr Nokbeon Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Board bus No. 9710 and get off at Munsan Bus Terminal. Transfer to bus No. 94 and get off at Imjingak.

The Soul of Chun Kyung-ja

(080) 020-2009, www.amazingkoreantable.com

Modern Art Gallery AG

Part 1: Thru Nov 13 Part 2: Nov 16—Dec 30

Painting Seoul Museum of Art

Throughout the city (Lotte Hotel, Insa-dong, Hongdae and other venues)

Imjingak, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do

Nov 20—22

Oct 29—Nov 1

Thru Dec 31

Adults: 700 won, Youths: 300 won, Others: Free Weekdays: (02) 120, Holidays & Nights: (02) 2124-8800 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk 5 minutes.

Bad Boys, Here Now

Modern Art Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art, Ansan-si

Thru Jan 3, 2010

Free (031) 481-7032 Gongdan Station, Line 4, Exit 1. Walk 15 minutes in the direction of Choji Sports Arena intersection.

2009 Chrystanthemum Festival

Paik / Kang—Multiple / Dialog ∞

Oct 29—Nov 22

Plastic Arts, Video Art, etc.

Rampcore, National Museum of Contemporary Art

Hampyeong Expo Park, Jeollanam-do

It takes three hours to get from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Gangneung by bus.

Thru Feb 7, 2010

2nd CJ Picture Book Festival Korea Foundation Cultural Center

Free (02) 2188-6000 Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 4.

Take the shuttle bus.

Nov 23—Dec 24

Free (02) 2151-6500, 6520, www.cjbook.org City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9.

Walk 5 minutes.

The Pleasure of Reading Sculpture

Sculpture Nam Seoul Annex Building of Seoul Museum of Art

Thru Feb 16, 2010

Free (02) 598-6247 Sadang Station, Lines 2 & 4, Exit 6. Walk 1 minute.

A Garden of Paintings Painting The Bank of Korea Gallery

Thru May 9, 2010

Free (02) 759-4881 Hoehyeon Station, Line 4, Exit 7. Turn left through the alley beside Outback Steak House. Go straight until you see the main street. The gallery is located across the street.

2009 Mungyeong Apple Festival Mungyeong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do

Thru Nov 8

Free (054) 550-8265, www.mgapp.com It takes three hours to get from Dong Seoul Bus Termainal to Mungyeong by bus.

Fall in Hantaek

Hantaek Botanical Garden, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do

Thru Nov 8

Adults: 8,000 won, Youths: 6,000 won, Children: 5,000 won (031) 333-3558, www.hantaek.co.kr

The CJ Culture Foundation aims to give illustrated books the support they fully deserve and lay the groundwork for the enrichment of both those who make them and those who enjoy the fruits of their labor. Recognition of the fact that picture books, by their very nature, transcend the boundaries of language and have no trouble making themselves understood has led to the inauguration of the CJ Picture Book Festival, where generations and countries can freely come together in celebration of the art. The 2nd CJ Picture Book Festival will celebrate more of the freshness, youth, creativity and free flowing culture. The guest exhibition is by renowned Czech illustrator Kvéta Pacovská.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 59

Goings on Around Town Yeosu Fireworks Festival

Soho Yacht Marina, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do

Nov 27

Free (061) 690-2043, http://blog.naver.com/yeosufire It takes more than five hours to get from Seoul to Yeosu by express bus.

Beauty & Health Week: Oct 25—31, Night Shopping Week: Nov 6—14, Hotel Week: Nov 15—25 (02) 3788-0888, www.seoulgrandsale.com

Nov 13—15

(02) 422-7563 Seoul Racecourse Station, Line 4.

Dec 18—20

16th National Inline Skating Road Athletes' Competition

Free (043) 740-3311~3, http://gam.yd21.go.kr It takes about three hours to get from Seoul to Yeongdong by KTX. The festival venue is near Nangye Gugakdang.

Anyang-si, Gyeonggi-do

Nov 19—20 (02) 420-4277

Badminton: 2009 Korea Challenge

Other Events

Hwasun-gun, Jeollanam-do

Nov 24—29 (02) 422-6174

Disney on Ice

Seoul International Bakery Fair 2009

Olympic Fencing Stadum / KINTEX, Ilsan

Hall C, COEX

Dec 3—6 & Dec 9—13, 7:30pm (Wed) / 3pm, 7:30pm (Thu—Fri) / 11am, 2:30pm, 6:30pm (Sat—Sun)

Oct 29—Nov 1

Hall C, COEX

Nov 5—9

3,000 won (02) 6000-1074, www.publicexpo.co.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

5,000 won, online registration required (02) 544-2069, www.hiseoulwalking.co.kr

Seoul Racecourse

Yeongdong-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do

Public Design Expo 2009

Nov 14—15, 10am

Horse Racing: 46th Chairman's Cup

2009 Yeongdong Dried Persimmon Festival

7,000 won (02) 6000-1076, 1109, www.siba-expo.com Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Hi-Seoul Walking Festival 2009

Seoul Plaza & Hangang Park

The 4th Seoul Int’l Fancy Food Festival 2009/The 8th Seoul Int’l Café Show 2009 Hall C, COEX

R: 55,000 won, S: 45,000 won, A: 35,000 won 1544-1555, www.disneyonice.co.kr Olympic Fencing Stadium: Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3. KINTEX: Daehwa Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Transfer to shuttle bus.

Nov 26—29 5,000 won (02) 2051-3322, www.fancyfood.co.kr / www.cafeshow.co.kr

Seoul Bike Show 2010 Hall B, COEX

Dec 4—6

Seoul International Winter Sports Expo Hall C, COEX

Nov 13—15 3,000 won (02) 2000-6498, www.siwinter.com Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Seoul Grand Sale

Throughout the entire city

Thru Nov 25

Cinema Week: Oct 11—17, Palace Week: Oct 18—24,

60 SEOUL November 2009

2,000 won (02) 529-0691, www.seoulbike.com Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Techmania Festival 2009

Cinema

Hall D, COEX

Exciting Movie Rides at the Museum

Free (02) 6009-3303, www.techmania.kr Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Every Wednesday Night at 7pm Ask for free tickets at the counter from 6:30pm

Dec 12

Sports

Seoul Museum of History

(02) 724-0114, www.museum.seoul.kr Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 4. Walk 300m.

Korea Ani Marathon (Animated Film Marathon) Every week (Check schedule & venue

at website, no English subtitles available) Free (02) 773-4308, www.animarathon.kr

(02) 783-6518~9, www.aisff.org Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 6. Walk 5—10 minutes.

International College Peace Film Festival (ICPFF 2009) Kangwon National Univ., Gangwon-do

Nov 26—29

Admission depends on program (02) 773-4308, http://icpff.org It takes about two hours to get from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Chuncheon. Take a cab to get to the venue.

3rd Seoul International Family Film Festival (SIFFF) CGV Yongsan

Oct 28—Nov 3 Admission depends on program (02) 777-1444, www.sifff.org Yongsan Station, Line 1.

Seoul Independent Film Festival (SIFF 2009)

French Cinema Now Seoul Art Cinema

Nov 10—29

Adults: 6,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Seniors: 4,000 won / Schedules will be posted at website.

(02) 741-9782, www.cinematheque.seoul.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Lines 1, 3 & 5, Exit 5.

Walk straight for 5 minutes. The theater is located in Nagwon Arcade.

The Korean Association of Cinematheques is convening a special showing of contemporary French cinema, giving Korean fans a rare chance to take in recent French films. Some 20 works by major French directors like Bruno Dumont, Olivier Assayas and Christophe Honoré will be shown. This is your chance to explore recent trends in French film and appreciate the creativity of French filmmakers. On the program are Arnaud Desplechin’s “La Sentinelle,” Assayas’s “Irma Vep” and “Les Destinées Sentimentales,” Honoré’s “17 Fois Cécile Cassard” and “Les Chansons d'Amour,” Abdelatif Kechiche’s “L'Esquive,” Xavier Beauvois’s “Le Petit Lieutenant,” Dumont’s “Flandres,” and Rabah AmeurZaimeche’s “Bled Number One” and “Dernier Maquis.”

Indie Space

Dec 10—18 Admission depends on program (02) 362-9513, www.siff.or.kr Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 10. Walk straight and turn the corner. Go straight and you will find Joongang Cinema. Indie Space is the third theater inside.

PAN

Gwanghwamun Art Hall

Wed—Fri, 7:30pm / Sat—Sun, 4pm VIP: 50,000 won, R: 40,000 won, S: 30,000 won (02) 722-3416, www.ghmarthall.co.kr Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 1.

Walk 10 minutes along Sajik Park and turn right.

Luchino Visconti Retrospective

Cine Cube

Samulnori uses four percussion instruments to create unique Korean rhythms. Pan, a traditional performance supervised by samulnori founder Kim Duk Soo, features samulnori and other traditional musical forms in a modern arrangement, so that audiences can join the performers and enjoy themselves even more. Catch a glimpse of the very spirit of Korea itself in the pulsating beats and entrancing dances of Pan—a mind-blowing sensory experience.

Admission depends on program

Dates & venues above are subject to change.

Seoul Art Cinema

Thru Nov 1

Adults: 6,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Seniors: 4,000 won / Schedules will be posted on website.

(02) 741-9782, www.cinematheque.seoul.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Lines 1, 3 & 5, Exit 5. Walk straight for 5 minutes. The theater is located in Nagwon Arcade.

Asiana International Short Film Festival (AISFF 2009) Nov 5—10

Travel & Culture SEOUL 61

Goings on Around Town

Regular Events Sachoom Sachoom Theater (Nagwon Arcade), Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 4pm, 7:30pm, Sun 4pm

e,¡¸ Miso¡ Korean Traditional Stage Chongdong Theater, Daily (no performance on Mondays) 8pm

50,000 won sachoom.co.kr (070) 8249-3023, www.lovedance.co.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 5, Exit 5.

R: 40,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 751-1500, www.chongdong.com www.koreamiso.com City Hall Station, Line 1 or 2, Exit 1.

Traditional Performing Arts Korea House, Mon—Sat 1st show: Dinner 5:30pm, Performance: 7pm, 2nd show: Dinner 7:20pm, Performance 8:50pm, Sunday show: Dinner 6:30pm, Performance 8pm

Nanta Jung Dong: Mon—Sun 2pm, 5pm, 8pm Cheongdam: Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 5pm, 8pm, Sun 5pm Myeong-dong: Mon—Sun 2pm, 5pm, 8pm

35,000 won (02) 2266-9101~3, www.koreahouse.or.kr Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 and 4, Exit 3 .

Saturday Regular Performance National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts, Sat 5pm A: 10,000 won, B: 8,000 won www.gugak.go.kr (02) 580-3333, www.ncktpa.go.kr Nambu Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. rs Korean Folk Performance for Visitors National Folk Museum, Sat 3pm Free (02) 3704-3114, www.nfm.go.kr Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3.

Walk 15 minutes from Exit 5.

Jump Jongno Cinecore Theater, Mon 8pm, Tue—Fri 4pm, 8pm, Sat 1pm, 4pm, 8pm, Sun & holidays 3pm, 6pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won (02) 722-3995, www.hijump.co.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 1, Exit 15.

Break Out Jongno Cinecore Theater, Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 4pm, 8pm, Sun & holidays 6pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won (02) 722-3995, www.yegam.com/breakout/eng Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 1, Exit 15.

Drawing Show Drawing Show Theater, Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 4pm, 7pm, Sun 3pm, 6pm

Pungnyu Hanmadang Theater Pungnyu, Korea Heritage Cultural Foundation bldg., Every Friday, 7:30pm

30,000 won (02) 789-5663, www.drawingshow.com Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 1. Turn left and go two blocks before passing Starbucks.

Free (02) 3011-2178~9, www.chf.or.kr Seolleung Station, Line 2, Exit 8. Walk in the direction of Gangnam-gu Office. The theater is located next to Ramada Hotel.

Seoul Namsan Gugakdang Regular Performances Seoul Namsan Gugakdang, Wed, Fri 7:30pm, Sat 5pm

Drum Cat MyungBo ARTHALL Sep 18—Open Run, Mon—Sat 2pm, 8pm, Sun & holidays 2pm, 6pm

Adults: 20,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won (02) 2261-0515, www.sejongpac.or.kr/sngad Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4.

R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won (02) 2274-2121, www.drumcat.co.kr Euljiro 3-ga Station, Lines 2 & 3, Exit 8.

PAN — The Korean Traditional Performing Arts directed by Kim Duk Soo Gwanghwamun Art Hall, Wed—Fri 7:30pm, Sat—Sun 4pm

Noreum Machi—Sori Gut Club Joker Red Every 3rd Saturday of each month, 7:30pm

VIP: 50,000 won, R: 40,000 won, S: 30,000 won (02) 722-3416, www.ghmarthall.co.kr Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk 10 minutes along the Sajik Park and turn right.

Adults: 10,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won (02) 323-2257, www.noreummachi.com Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 5.

Fan Yang’s Bubble World Fanta-Stick Myungbo Arthall, Tue—Fri 2pm, 4:30pm 63 Art Hall, Open Run, Sat—Sun 11:30am, 7:30pm 8pm (no performances on Mondays)

Fan Bubble Any Yang’s BeatNight d Melodic at theWorl Museum Melodic Night at the Museum Myungbo Arthall, Tue—Fri 2pm, 4:30pm Myeong Dong Art Center, Seoul Museum of 3pm, History, Sat—Sun 11:30am, 7:30p7pm, Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat m Sun 3pm Every last Friday of each month, 7pm 28,000 won Free (Ask for won, free tickets at the ticket VIP: 50,000 R: 40,000 won, S: counter) 30,000 won 2263-9741~2, www.bubbleworld.co.kr (02) www.museum.seoul.kr (02)724-0114, 318-6004 Euljiro 3-ga Station, Lines 2 & 3.

Walk frois Seodaemun Station, Line Line 5, 300m.

Euljiro 1-ga Station, 2, Exit Exit 4.

6. Walk The50m center located on the 3rd flr. of the UNESCO House.

28,000 won 50,000 won (02)6401-5959, 2263-9741~2, www.bubbleworld.co.kr (02) www.fanta-stick.co.kr Euljiro 3-ga Station, Lines 2 &4.3.Walk Walk80m 50minfro m Yeouinaru Station, Line 5, Exit the Exit 8. of MBC. direction

62 SEOUL November 2009

VIP: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won (02) 739-8288, www.nanta.co.kr/en Jung Dong: Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 5.

Cheongdam: Gangnam-gu Office Station, Line 7, Exit 4.

Myeong-dong: Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 6 or Euljiro 1-ga Station, Line 2, Exits 5 or 6.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 63

Travel

64 SEOUL November 2009

Mt. Juwangsan, Jusanji Lake Make Perfect Autumn Travel Destinations

Travel Culture 65 hours.

Fog covers the surface of Jusanji Pond in & the early SEOUL morning

Travel

Brilliant autumn foliage of Mt. Juwangsan National Park

T

he rugged agricultural town of Cheongsong is, well, off the beaten path. Trains don’t run here.

Buses from Seoul are infrequent, and travel time is long thanks to the high, verdant mountains that dominate this region of southeastern Korea. It is famous for its apples—which are about as big as a baby’s head—and, more notoriously, for its prison, reputedly the most heavily guarded in Korea.

It is also famous for its autumn scenery, some of the most spectacular in all Korea. On your average autumn Saturday or Sunday, Mt. Juwangsan National Park is overrun with hikers who come to see the park’s stunning foliage, fantastic rock formations and enchanting waterfalls. The mysterious Jusanji Pond, meanwhile, mesmerizes visitors with its surreal imagery of snarled trees reaching from the misty lake like the claws of monster grabbing for the early morning sky. If you’re willing to make the rugged four-and-a-half hour bus trek, you couldn’t ask for a better autumn weekend getaway from Seoul.

1 2 1. Daejeonsa Temple, with Mt. Juwangsan in the background 2. Waterfall No. 1, Mt. Juwangsan National Park

66 SEOUL November 2009

Hiking along the Jubang Valley

Mt. Juwangsan National Park Even if you’re not the mountain-hiking type, Mt. Juwangsan is well worth your time. While peakbaggers are free to challenge the mountain’s granite summits, most visitors opt for a leisurely stroll up the Jubang Valley, which cuts a path through the middle of the park. Along the way, you’re treated to a breathtaking display of sheer canyons and crystalclear streams that have carved a variety of pools and waterfalls from the smooth granite. Above your head, craggy rock formations, cliffs and peaks add to the natural splendor.

To enjoy Mt. Juwangsan at its very best, however, you have to visit in autumn. When the foliage is at its zenith, the mountainsides become a brilliant display of bright crimson and gold. Throw in the other colors—the aquamarine pools, silver rock walls, and gaudy but functional attire of a good portion of the hiking population—and you can suffer from sensory overload.

The main trail takes you past a couple of spots of historical interest, too. At the entrance of the Jubang Valley trail is the ancient Buddhist temple of Daejeongsa, famous for its stupendous setting, with the rock peaks of Mt. Juwangsan forming a folding screen-esque backdrop. Also of interest is Juwangam, a small hermitage where, it is said, Juwang—a nobleman from Tang China and the mountain’s namesake—hid following a failed uprising against the Chinese emperor.

Hiking Course

Daejeonsa Temple > 1st Waterfall (and Juwangam Hermitage) > 2nd Waterfall > 3rd Waterfall > Return to Daejeonsa. Hiking Time: About four hours

Getting There

There are 65 local buses a day from downtown Cheongsong to Juwangsan. The trip takes about 20 minutes.

Admission: 3,200 won

Travel Tips

• Morning Clouds: If you can get up early, visit the park at daybreak, when the clouds and fog accumulate at the base of the rocky peaks.

• Apple Dongdongju: Many of the restaurants in front of Daejeonsa sell dongdongju—a form of the favorite Korean rice beer makgeolli—infused with apple, jujube and Korean bellflower root (deodeok).

• Peak Foliage: In 2009, the colors should be at their peak in early November.

Getting to Cheongsong

You should look at Cheongsong as a two-day trip. Buses to Cheongsong depart from Seoul’s Dong Seoul Terminal at 6:20am, 8:40am, 10:20am, 11:40am, 3pm and 4:30pm.

Return buses depart at 8:50am, 10:57am, 1:25pm, 2:40pm, 4:15pm and 5:29pm. The trip takes about four hours.

There are direct buses from Dong Seoul to Mt. Juwangsan National Park, too, which depart at the same time.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 67

Travel

Photographers captivated by the mystery of Jusanji Pond

Jusanji Pond Jusanji Pond is the very definition of “hidden treasure.” Or, at least, it was. Just a few years ago, hardly anyone besides locals knew it even existed.

Then Korean auteur Kim Ki-duk came to town to shoot his 2003 art house classic “Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter...and Spring.” Using the pond as a film setting, Kim put it on tourist maps, although luckily, Cheongsong’s (and the pond’s!) general isolation prevent it from being overrun by visitors. Among the photographically oriented, it is considered one of Korea’s most picturesque sites.

Technically speaking, Jusanji Pond is an agricultural reservoir, constructed between 1720 and 1721. Located within the confines of Mt. Juwangsan National Park, the pond is ringed by dense forests and hillsides that enhance the atmosphere of otherworldliness. The banks are lined with gnarled willow trees, the roots of which are submerged beneath the pond’s surface when water levels are high enough (as they are in spring and the summer rainy season). In the early morning hours, when fog covers the pond surface, the view is beyond surreal.

Written and Photographed by Robert Koehler

68 SEOUL November 2009

Getting There

To get to Jusanji Pond by bus, take a local bus from Cheongsong to Ijeon-ni. From there, take the trail to the pond—it’s just over 1km.

Travel Tip

• Get There Early!

The best time to go is just prior to sunrise. This might require a relatively expensive 20-minute taxi ride, but if you’ve made it this far, you might as well splurge.

Where to Stay

Downtown Cheongsong and Mt. Juwangsan National Park are home to several inns and motels. The Mt. Juwang Spa Hotel Hotel (054-874-7000) is the nicest, but it’s a bit pricey (standard rooms go for 80,000 won). The village in front of Daejeonsa Temple has many homestay facilities (minbak), too. The best option, however, is to stay in the Songso Gotaek (054-873-0234, www.songso.co.kr), a beautiful, 130-year-old aristocrat’s home. It costs 50,000 won a night for two, but be sure to call first. Breakfast costs 6,000 won.

What to Eat

There are tons of restaurants serving standard Korean fare in front of Daejeonsa Temple, and this is probably where you’ll eat. As a general rule, I look for which ones are busy when choosing, but if a particular place strikes your fancy, it’s probably OK.

Eating Out

Stirring It Up in Sillim-dong Sundae Town A Taste All Its Own

F

or many, sundae is an acquired taste. Even the mere mention of its nature may cause some to squirm in their seats: it's a form of blood sausage made from boiled or steamed pig’s intestines stuffed with an assortment of gelatinous ingredients. Doesn’t exactly get your belly grumbling now, does it?

Needless to say, it didn’t for me, either, when I thought of writing a piece on its rising popularity. In fact, for as long as I’ve been in Korea, I never once had a craving for the stuff, nor did I have the guts to try it. It just isn’t one of those dishes that work up my appetite. But I see now that I wasn’t giving it a fair shot all this time. Moreover, after speaking with some friends of mine who are huge fans of the stuff, my curiosity was starting to get the better of me, and I soon found myself succumbing to its allure—so much so that this month I thought I’d lay all apprehension to rest and finally sample the much-heralded dish.

It must be said that I wasn’t at all coerced by the magazine staff into trying the dish against my will for the sake of this article. In fact, much to their credit, I was even told I could simply photograph it without trying it, if need be. In hindsight, I see now that they were just egging me on. Well, it worked. I ate a whole tray of it. And the verdict? Not all that bad. Honest.

A little spicy, but for many already familiar with Korean cuisine, that only comes with the territory.

So what makes it tasty? For me, it’s probably the fact that it’s so unique.

The taste is almost infused with the overall experience, as with several other dishes I’ve tried in Korea. The only other meal that springs to mind is haggis, that Scottish "delicacy." Similar in its method of preparation, haggis consists of minced onions, oatmeal, suet, spices, salt and stock wrapped in sheep organs (heart, liver and lungs) that are then boiled inside the animal’s stomach for approximately three hours. Both sundae and haggis are so far from the traditional fare I grew up with that just eating something that unfamiliar creates a lasting and memorable imprint on my palette.

70 SEOUL November 2009

Stuff It All in There Nestled in the labyrinthine district of Sillim-dong, just off the main corridor to Seoul National University, is a four-story high rise replete with a half dozen restaurants dedicated to the treat. If you’re looking for the best place to experience sundae , this would be it. It’s clear from the number of diners that this location has a longstanding reputation for serving up the best quality. I ate on the ground floor at a place called Ddosuni, just past the towering neon sign that welcomes visitors, and the place was packed. The only seat I could find was wedged in the corner, flush against the wall. That didn’t prove to be a problem, and in fact added to the overall experience.

The staff here is very friendly and seemed to relish serving the only foreign guest in the establishment, periodically dropping by my table to inquire whether or not I found my meal too spicy. Red-faced and beaded in perspiration, I told them I was fine. This, of course, only sent them off in a chorus of giggles, gleefully telling the rest of the staff how I was progressing with my meal. One aspect of dining in Korea that I’ve grown rather used to is the fact that it’s more often than not a very interactive setting. Eating is never done out of necessity; it is instead a way of life.

Sundae is spicy, but it sits well on par with a host of other traditional Korean dishes. That is to say, it’s not unbearable. The process by which it is made is similar to the aforementioned haggis: the small and large intestines of pigs are salted and stuffed with a mixture of blood, rice, green onions, garlic, minced pork, and vermicelli. It’s then steamed, sliced, and finally served with steamed and sliced lungs and liver. Very popular at street vendors throughout the city, it’s also a hit at many signature restaurants, where it is mixed up in front of you, stir-fry style, on a tray with cabbage, huge green onions, gochujang (spicy chili pepper paste) and other vegetables. The latter is called sundae bokkeum , and it’s what this writer had presented to him moments after he sat down. Interestingly, recipes for sundae can be found in Joseon cookbooks dating all the way back to the 19th century.

More Information T. (02) 884-7565 www.ddosuni.co.kr

Getting There

Take subway Line 2 to Sillim Station and hop out of Exit 3. Walk 100m or so until you see Watson’s pharmacy and turn right. Sundae Town is just down the alleyway on your right-hand side.

Seoul isn’t the only area recognized for making sundae . One notable variation is ojingeo sundae , which is made from dried squid. A local specialty of both Gangwon-do and Gyeonggi-do, it is eaten as anju , the small side dishes that accompany various alcoholic beverages.

Whether you want to warm yourself up on a chilly winter night at any one of the city’s myriad street stands, or simply sit down with your friends over drinks, sundae is indeed a tasty treat for experienced eaters and definitely one for the memory books for those who have been hesitant to try it.

Written and photographed by Gregory Curley

Travel & Culture SEOUL 71

Lifestyle & Leisure

Seoul Hiking Club Enjoying Korea’s Natural Beauty, Rain or Shine

I

s there a better place in to spend the Korean autumn than on the mountainside?

This writer joined the Seoul Hiking Club for a hike to Mt. Chiaksan National Park on Saturday, Oct 10. You couldn’t ask for a better day—the sky was a deep cobalt blue, while the trees, just being to change into their autumn livery, added a splash of color to the surroundings. This was going to be a fun day.

Seoul Hiking Club is Korea’s preeminent Englishlanguage hiking club . For almost 13 years, the club has been heading out to the hills every single Saturday. In so doing, it brings Koreans and foreigners together in a friendly and inclusive environment to enjoy a common passion and appreciate the natural splendors of Korea.

Rain, Shine, Cold, Hot, Whenever Seoul Hiking Club was founded in 1998 by hiking enthusiast Kim Changdae, who wished to create a club for people—including foreigners—to go hiking in an English-speaking environement where they could communicate. There are currently about 600 members, although according to Canadian Ken Chapman, who led the Mt. Chiaksan hike, only about 80 of those members are active. The number of foreigners and Koreans is roughly equal, although certain hikes bring out more foreigners than Koreans, and visa versa. According to Chapman, the average group size is eight to 10, “but we have had as few as two and as many of 25.”

72 SEOUL November 2009

Seoul Hiking Club goes hiking every Saturday. And by every Saturday, we do mean EVERY Saturday—they haven’t missed a Saturday since Jan 3, 1998. This is a point of pride. Like the Green Bay Packers, they fear no weather system. Said Chapman, “Rain, shine, cold, hot, whenever. I’ve been up in pouring rain.”

Of course, novice hikers might wonder if they’re getting in over their head. Fortunately, the club rates its hikes by difficulty and length, so prospective hikers can judge for themselves whether they’ll be able to make it. There are harder and easier hikes, to be sure, but most are ranked Level 3—normal—which means anyone young and healthy can do it.

Anyone Can Hike I asked Chapman what it was about hiking that charmed him so.

“Well, it doesn’t require much time or equipment,” he said. “It’s outdoors in the beauty of nature. As I get older, I appreciate the beauty of nature more.” Then there are the friendships you build while hiking. “There’s a lot of camaraderie on the mountain,” he said. “You can’t find that kind of camaraderie anywhere else.”

Korea is a particularly good place to hit the hills. Says Chapman, “Hiking in Korea is so accessible. If there is a mountain, you can get on it.

In the Rockies, hikes are multi-day affairs that require a lot of equipment.”

Then there are the pre-and-post hike facilities. “In Korea, you can find restaurants and places to stay at the bottom of a mountain, unlike in Canada.”

Becoming a Member Yearly membership is 30,000 won. This gives you access to many of the website's functions. Non-members have to pay an extra 10,000 won on hikes. The Mt. Chiaksan National Park hike, for instance, cost 35,000 won, so non-members would pay 45,000 won. To become a member, send the membership fee to Jungmin Kang (treasurer) via the club bank account: 012-21-1459-872 (Kookmin Bank, Jungmin Kang).

Attention!

Prior to going on a hike, check the weather. The club won’t be canceling its hike on account of Mother Nature, so if rain is forecast, dress appropriately. It also goes without saying that you should wear hiking shoes or boots, especially for the harder hikes.

Schedule The hiking schedule is posted on the club homepage (www.hikingkorea.com). Be warned, however—destinations are sometimes decided late.

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

More Information: www.hikingkorea.com

Travel & Culture SEOUL 73

Shopping

Plenty of Folk; No Fleas Seoul Folk Flea Market Is Heaven for Lovers of Randomness

Q

: Where can you buy a stuffed mammal, an axe, a bronze prancing horse, a rocking chair, a sousaphone, a black-and-white photo of a dictator in an armchair in a Russian-looking carved wooden frame, a drum, a bell, a gong, jewelry, hiking equipment, karaoke, a selection of DVDs, a nutcracker, a jar of local honey from Mt. Maisan, a bicycle helmet, medicinal mushrooms, “functional underpants,” a guitar, a teapot made by a designated intangible cultural property, a watch, some new or secondhand shoes, a shelf-load of vinyl records from the 1980s, a pair of pliers, a large ball of army surplus green string, an erotic video, a detailed atlas of Korea, a used tennis racket, a log with a naked lady’s torso carved into the side, lunch, a Korean ink painting, a sword, a set of brass bowls, a bronze statue of a moody eagle, a penknife, a ship’s compass, a giant pestle and mortar, a Qing-style vase, a cavernous earthenware kimchi pot, a wooden rice cake mould, and too many other things to mention?

1. Dubai International Airport 2. At selected stores in northern Alaska for a limited period only 3. Seoul Folk Flea Market 4. Birmingham, UK

74 SEOUL November 2009

SEOUL magazine sent a reporter to each of these four locations, only to find that Seoul Folk Flea Market was the sole provider of all the items mentioned.

Currently housed in a new, purpose-built two-story building in Sinseol-dong, the flea market and its ark-load of objects has undergone two major relocations in the last five years. It was first moved away from the streets lining (then subterranean) Cheonggyecheon Stream when restoration work began on the waterway in 2004.

After two subsequent years in nearby Dongdaemun Stadium, a second relocation was decided upon to allow demolition of the stadium and construction of architect Zaha Hadid’s striking Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park complex (currently in progress). The current market, not far from Cheonggyecheon, was built

by Seoul Metropolitan Government and opened in April 2008.

The market has lost little of its unpredictability, however, and still refuses to stop turning out the most unexpected objects. Seoul Folk Flea Market is not a place to go if you’re looking for anything specific (except if you’ve lost your black-and-white photo of a dictator in an armchair in a Russian-looking carved wooden frame and urgently need a replacement). It is a place worth perusing at leisure, with half an eye out for a good bargain and the remaining one and a half eyes enjoying

the heady mixture of pre-modern objects, musical instruments, ornaments and the obligatory tragicomic freak show of audio equipment from three decades ago.

There are bargains to be had at the flea market, and the unpredictability of prices is another factor adding to the variety here. One rumor tells of a onemillion-won coffee grinder that was sold for 50,000 won simply because its stand was missing—these flashes of consumer brilliance are yet another attraction. Meet the right vendor in the right mood and with the right product, and you can expect to come away with a good deal.

In June of this year, a small section selling directly traded goods from Korea’s provinces opened. This is a good place to find food from Jeju; wood, pottery and paper crafts from Gyeongsangbuk Province; wine and other products from the tiny island of Ulleung-do; and more food from mountainous Gangwon Province.

Seoul Folk Flea Market is by no means isolated: the entire area at the eastern end of Jongno, Cheonggyecheon and Euljiro and around Dongdaemun has been the home of a sprawling series of markets for decades, and a visit to the flea market fits well into a walk through the wider area.

A stroll along Cheonggyecheon or a further wander around the street markets near the Dongmyo shrine are both recommended options. This is an area of Seoul rich in character and well worth a shopping trip.

Written by Ben Jackson Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Additional Information

Seoul Folk Flea Market is open seven days a week from 10:30am to 7pm. It is closed only on the 2nd and 4th Tuesdays of every month.

Weekends are the best time to visit the market. This is when yet more vendors and customers turn up, buying and selling steps up a gear, and various cultural events add to the buzz.

Seoul Tourism Association runs a Tourist Information Center inside Seoul Folk Flea Market. Phoning this center is a great way to get further help and information in English. Tel. (02) 2234-5836.

Getting There

Sinseol-dong Station, Lines 1 & 2 (Seongsu branch), Exit 9. Walk ahead for 100m. Seoul Folk Flea Market is also just a short walk away from Cheonggyecheon Stream.

Travel & Culture SEOUL 75

Night Life

A Cup of Makgeolli on the Far Side of the Moon Alexander Boutilier Visits Darui Dwipyeon for Some Traditional Booze and Old Korean Warmth

C

ertain nights in Korea, one can be taken by the desire to immerse oneself in real Korean culture. Enough with Western bars, modern hot spots and upscale tourist restaurants where the fare is presented in an artificial setting.

What really appeals to the connoisseur of Korea is the sort of comfortable, warm and cozy place where revelers can catch their breath and let the evening wind slowly down, whiling away the nocturnal hours in a humble hole-in-the-wall atmosphere, listening to ambient music and soaking up the rustic mood into the wee hours of the morning.

This colorful taste of old Korea is sadly becoming less and less possible to track down, particularly in Seoul proper. As large apartment complexes rise up from the ashes of older neighborhoods, the traditional Korean watering hole, the jujeom , becomes rarer and rarer. Certainly, there are still chicken hof and noodle shops for the night owl, but earthy, comfortable environs where the spirit of the people comes to roost are fast becoming a thing of the past.

There used to be many such places, often ramshackle huts by the railroad tracks; expansive tent bars, overgrown to semi-permanence; or college spots tucked in the basements of old tenements, with years of writing on the walls, oildrum tables and plastic stools. The best of all were those rare, traditional old homes with full courtyards, exposed timbers, adobe walls and sloping tiled roofs that said, “Welcome! Here is a lingering remnant of old Joseon. Here is comfort in a cup of makgeolli . Here is jeong .”

Yet such places can still be found, if one only has the desire to seek them out.

Lingering in overlooked places, tucked away down narrow lanes, curled up behind the modern façades of Seoul’s bustling thoroughfares. There is one such place hidden in the midst of downtown Seoul, just minutes away from large office towers, palaces, and City Hall. In the streets behind Millennium Plaza and the YMCA, not far from Jonggak Station and across the main drag from the modern, neon-lit Jongno district, is Darui Dwipyeon ("Far Side of the Moon").

Stepping Back into a Warmer Time As you step in from the alley, you enter a secluded courtyard and are transported to another time. Korean pop from the '70s and '80s plays in the background as flagstones, oriental eaves and solid wooden tables come into view. The encircling rooms are glass-walled, tying the courtyard and main room together, simultaneously uniting and differentiating the rooms. Several private rooms with wooden benches, and one larger one with straw mat flooring for traditional Korean seating, are available for private groups, and the main room is filled with roomy tables hosting an array of customers, all partaking of the atmosphere in a subdued hubbub.

A large working fireplace hearth forms the centerpiece of the largest room, and genuine examples of traditional farm implements decorate the earthtoned walls, generating an immediate sense of rustic comfort and contentment. A scale model of the entire jujeom hangs on the wall and can be seen just as one enters the common room. Exquisite in detail, its little wooden tables and chairs reflect their real-life counterparts. The whole place is well worth the visit for atmosphere alone.

Night Life

I sat at the window looking out on the courtyard as the golden rays of dusk grudgingly gave way to the indigo shadows of night.

The dappled radiance outside, and the warm harvest light inside, whetted the appetite for the musky taste of traditional Korean beverages.

Like any proper Korean restaurant or bar, the food is a representative sampling of certain expected Korean dishes. The menu offered a variety of savory Korean pancakes, or jeon . There were also tteokbokki , several egg dishes, tofu dishes, squid dishes and pumpkin dishes. All the fare is affordable and generous, in the 10,000—11,000 won range. I tried the wangdonggeurangttaeng (13,000 won), which consisted of several hearty dumplings of egg and vegetable along with dipping sauce—nourishing fare to complement some evening drinks. For a real Korean experience, one can’t go wrong in occasionally trying out the comfort food served up at such a meeting place.

Getting There and Additional Information Darui Dwipyeon can be found by taking Exit 3 from Jonggak Station, Line 1, and heading straight along the thoroughfare to the YMCA building before turning down the side road adjacent to it. This short road has several tourist agencies on it and ends in a cul-de-sac that splinters into a few small paths leading off into this mini-Insa-dong. Take the path to the right, leading to the Paradise Motel, and right beside that is Darui Dwipyeon.

T. (02) 722-9032 Homepage: www.달의뒤편.kr (Korean) Hours: 4pm to 2am

78 SEOUL November 2009

My companion and I toasted our evening with a bottle of Daepo makgeolli (3,000 won). With a range of domestic beers and whiskeys available, the real treat was the Korean spirits. In such a place, the drink flows readily for those prepared to while away the hours. Trying out Korean drinks is always an experience, from baekseju to bokbunja and makgeolli itself. The tastes range from musky and surprising to herbal and sublime.

Makgeolli is best served fresh, and the Daepo variety was crisp and clean. We took turns refilling one another’s cups, savoring the milky beverage as we drained our cups. The staff are traditionalists and, as such, do not speak a great deal of English, but they more than make up for that trifle with ready service and a friendly smile.

Written by Alexander Boutilier Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

Travel & Culture SEOUL 79

City News

Seoul Design Olympiad 2009 is Finished

O

ctober’s mammoth 21-day city-wide design event, Seoul Design Olympiad, came to an end on the 29th. Centered on southeastern Seoul’s Jamsil O l y m p i c S t a d i u m b u t a p p e a r i n g i n va r i o u s manifestations across the metropolis, the Olympiad once again confirmed its reputation as one of Korea’s top design events. Based on a theme of “overcoming economic slump through design,” this year’s Olympiad went beyond the simple concept of a large design exhibition to become one giant “design marketplace” where spectators could enjoy buying and selling a wide range of design products. The Olympiad will be back again next autumn and promises to be even more exciting since Seoul has been designated as World Design Capital in 2010. Make sure you stick around until next October!

King Sejong Turns Out for Hangeul Day

O

n October 9, the day commemorating the unique alphabet that he developed, King Sejong (r.

1418—1450) made a rare appearance in central Seoul’s Gwanghwamun Plaza—and he’s still there!

The popular Joseon era monarch, perhaps the single most beloved figure in all of Korea’s history, was unveiled in the form of a giant bronze statue at

80 SEOUL November 2009

8:30am on Hangeul Day. Occupying pride of place on the plaza, King Sejong sits facing southwards, his back to the Gyeongbokgung Palace and his right hand extended in a pose designed to maximize the “gentle charisma” for which—along with a string of brilliant scientific inventions—he is remembered. The statue was created over a five-month period, using huge amounts of clay and a volume of bronze equal to 32 million 10 won coins. If it appears a little chubby, this is because it was designed in accordance with the results of historical research that showed that King Sejong wore six layers of clothing. Next to the statue are replicas of a sun clock and rain gauge, just two of the scientifically brilliant inventions that came into being during King Sejong’s reign, while abundant information about the sage-king’s other breakthroughs and enlightened legacy is also on display. The statue is thus not only a striking addition to the central Seoul cityscape, but an educational asset that makes a visit with your kids absolutely indispensable...

City News To get to Gwanghwamun Plaza, simply take subway Line 5 and get off at Gwanghwamun Station. It is also within ten minutes’ walk of Gyeongbokgung Station on Line 3.

Top Chef Edward Kwon to Represent Seoul and its Food Worldwide

E

dward Kwon, head chef at Dubai’s world-renowned seven-star Burj Al Arab hotel, was appointed a goodwill ambassador for the city of Seoul at a ceremony on October 6 attended by Seoul mayor Oh Se-hoon. Oh handed Kwon a plaque engraved with details of his new role, and chef’s overalls with Seoul city slogans, before Kwon gave a cookery demonstration featuring a specially created dish of beef with kimchi and raisin marmalade.

Kwon wore the overalls at the Sydney International Food Festival from October 9—11, as part of a joint publicity project with Seoul Metropolitan Government. He also screened a short introductory video to Seoul at the festival.

Edward Kwon is one of the world’s star chefs: since studying at the Culinary Institute of America, he has worked as head chef at top hotels in several continents.

He was selected as one of the top ten young chefs of 2003 by the American Culinary Association, and awarded the accolade of best chef in Dubai in 2006. It is hoped that he will use his influence to raise the global profile of Seoul food and of the city itself. As Seoul has now acquired the right to use Kwon’s image in overseas promotion material, we can expect him to become an even more familiar face in future.

Seoul Tap Water—“Arisu”—Once Again Confirmed Highly Drinkable

A

fter winning a United Nations Public Service Award for its On and Off-Line Real-Time Water Quality Monitoring Services in June this year, Seoul Metropolitan Government’s Office of Waterworks—also known, along with the tap water it supplies, by the brand name “Arisu” since 2006—has scored another victory in the battle to persuade the public to drink more tap water. Water quality tests by US-based Underwriters Laboratories and National Sanitation Foundation International showed that Arisu complied both with the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)’s potable water quality standards and the

US Food and Drug Administration (FSA)’s bottled water standards. Though Seoul’s tap water has been safe to drink for a long time, public trust has remained inexplicably low and sales of bottled water and use of filters remains high. Despite these tests being conducted in July 2009, when the Hangang River was swollen due to monsoon rains and looked like liquid mud, Arisu was found to be so clean that its level of turbidity (cloudiness due to suspended solids in the water) was below 0.1 NTU, giving a test result of “not detected”. Why not treat yourself to a glass of Seoul tap water more often?

Seoul Partners House Gives Boost to Small and Medium Enterprises

C

ourting foreign buyers is not always easy for small and medium enterprises (SMEs), but newly opened Seoul Partners House is set to make things easier.

Managed by Seoul Business Agency, a body that exists to support SMEs, Seoul Partners House features conference rooms, a business center, food and beverage service, business support services and Korean style guest rooms for visiting foreign buyers. Its location in Hannam-dong, moreover, means it is in the heart of one of Seoul’s largest foreign communities and near close to many foreign embassies. This is good news not only for Korea’s SMEs, many of whom are working hard to climb out of the aftermath of last year’s financial crisis, but also for foreign businesses, who will have better chances of meeting some of Korea’s most exciting emerging companies.

Seoul Partners House opened on September 23, and on its first day of business hosted export talks with 18 foreign buyers. Its provision of discounted facility use and various training and consultation programs means that more SMEs will be able to invite, accommodate and negotiate with foreign buyers in a first-rate business environment. Seoul Partners House’s attractive building originally began construction as the mayor of Seoul’s public residence, but was transferred to Seoul Business Agency in August 2009 in order to increase support for SMEs in the current harsh global climate.

Photographs courtesy of Seoul Metropolitan Government

Travel & Culture SEOUL 81

Community Page AWC Coffee Morning— Learn about Seon Meditation 19th fl, Grand Ambassador Hotel (previously Sofitel)

Nov 3, 9:30am

Seon meditation is not just about sitting silent and motionless for hours. It’s also relaxing, good for your health, great for your spirit, and, most importantly, fun, says Marie Josee Wiehe, instructor at Seon Meditation Center. Cost: 12,000 won (AWC members) or 15,000 won (non-members). More information at www.awckorea. org.

YÉOL Lecture—Seoul, City Planning and Feng Shui Seminar Room (2nd fl), Seoul Museum of History

Nov 3, 10:30am—noon

A lecture by Kim Sae-won. Cost: 10,000 won. To register, send an email to yeol400@paran.com. For more information, visit www.yeol. org or phone (02) 736-5868.

CanCham Networking Party

siwapage.com or send an email to newcomers@siwapage.com.

Nov 4, 7pm—9pm

Hanji (Korean Paper) Lantern-Making

Bar Rouge, JW Marriott Seoul

The Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Korea cordially invites you to meet all members—a great occasion to network and meet interesting new friends. Prospective CanCham members may also take the event as an opportunity to join. Entertainment will be provided by Canadian singer John Warner. One round-trip flight ticket to Vancouver will be drawn during the event, as well as other door prizes. For more information and/or to make a reservation, contact info@ canchamkorea.org or (02) 5540245~6.

SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting Seoul Club, Namsan

Nov 5, 10am

A chance to learn a little more about SIWA and the city of Seoul. Cost: 8,000 won. For more information, visit www.

Itaewon/Hannam Global Village Center

Nov 6 & 13

Get to know the delights of Korean traditional paper by making a lantern from it. The process takes two classes— participants must make sure they can attend both. Cost: 10,000 won. For more info, phone (02) 1688-0120 or email hotline@seoul.go.kr.

Free Movie Screening: Once

3rd Fl, Yeoksam-1-dong Residents’ Center (Yeoksam Global Village Center building)

Nov 6, 7pm

This month’s free movie screening from Yeoksam GVC. Director John Carney’s 2007 Irish musical film “Once” was an unexpected smash hit in Korea. In English. For more information, visit global.seoul.

go.kr/yeoksam.

New Zealand Wine Experience

Diamond Hall, 22nd fl, Seoul Plaza Hotel

Nov 9, 7pm—10pm

The New Zealand Chamber of Commerce in Korea (Kiwi Chamber) and New Zealand Winegrowers are proud to host this unique New Zealand wine-tasting event. Twentyfive outstanding wineries from NZ will showcase many of their finest varietals—from their famous sauvignon blanc to their acclaimed pinot noir and merlot. Cost: 50,000 won per person (includes wine and light finger food). To register or get more information, visit www. kiwichamber.com.

SIWA Coffee Morning with Hair Stylist Tatiana Kapitonov Grand Ambassador Hotel (previously Sofitel)

Nov 11, 9:30am—11:30am

Ms. Kapitonov, of Park Jun Hair

Expat of the Month #2 Robert Neff – One of Korea’s Leading Expat Shipwreck Experts

F

reelance writer, historical researcher and shipwreck expert Robert Neff came to Korea in 1984 with the US Army. After leaving the military in 1997, Robert stayed in Korea in order to write a book. He modestly denies being a fully-fledged expert in sunken vessels, citing the fact that the scope of his knowledge is largely limited to the Joseon period, up to 1910. “My interest in shipwrecks is as vehicles for wider research into contact between Korea and other nations,” he explains. The first wreck to attract Robert’s attention was that of the Kowshing, a British owned transport chartered for military purposes by the Chinese government and sunk off Korea’s west coast, near Asan, by a Japanese ship on July 25, 1894. This incident became part of the overture to the First Sino-Japanese War (1894—5). “I wrote a couple of articles in 2001—2, arguing that the wreck itself should be preserved,” says Robert. “Instead, it was damaged when a company salvaged cargo from it.”

Robert’s other interests are in Korean gold mines before and during the Japanese occupation (1910—1945)—he has around 800 related photos and a rare 8mm home video taken in the 1920s— as well as early shipwreck victims in Korea and late 19th/early 20th century Western accounts of Korea. He has written several articles about the former, as well as a currently unpublished book.

“Korea had an undeserved reputation for being a deadly place to survive a shipwreck,” maintains Robert. “In fact, Korea treated people that arrived by accident better than China or Japan did.”

Last year, Robert co-authored a book in Korean with Professor Cheong Sung-hwa, Dean of the Department of History at the Graduate School of Myongji University, entitled Seoyangin ui Joseon Sari (“Lives of Westerners in Joseon”; Pureun Yeoksa). Next month sees the publication of Korea Through Western Eyes (Seoul National University Press), a book in English also co-authored by Robert and Prof. Cheong. Robert explains his research technique by divulging that he is “the ultimate spammer.”

Robert also contributes fortnightly history-based articles to The Jeju Weekly , the island’s new English-language publication, “mostly about shipwrecks.”

82 SEOUL November 2009

Salon, will provide instruction regarding different hair products and tools and how to use them. Cost: 12,000 won (SIWA members) or 17,000 won (nonmembers). For more information, see www.siwapage.com.

2009 Seoul Town Meeting

Conference Room, 13th fl, Seoul City Hall Seosomun Annex

Nov 11, 2pm—5pm

Organized by Seoul Metropolitan Government, Seoul Town Meeting is an open gathering for international residents to share ideas on living in Seoul.

On this meeting’s agenda are the housing situation in Seoul, as well as leisure facilities and cultural infrastructure. For more information, please phone (02) 2075-4116 or email yjang@sba. seoul.kr.

New Restaurant Opening: Japanese Culinary Splendour at JW Marriott Seoul Mikado, JW Marriott Seoul

Nov 11

Japanese restaurant Mikado reopens after entirely remodeling its kitchen. It offers a “challenging new menu”—if that doesn’t sound too ominous for you—based on the three concepts of Sushi, Kaiseki and Kappo. Happy hour is from 8:30pm—10pm, while the chef’s Creation set menu ‘Omakase’ is available at 50% off from 8pm— 9pm. For more information, call (02) 6282-6751.

Improv and Bachelor/ ette Charity Auction for the Homeless Roofers, Itaewon

Nov 13, 9pm—11:30pm

Roofers and Seoul City Improv (SCI) are combining efforts with the community to bring you a bachelor/ette auction that will not only entertain the daylights out of you, but also attempt to warm the homeless by raising funds to provide them with immediate relief in the form of food, clothing and blankets. For more info, email Catherine at cahronek@ hotmail.com, or see Seoul City Improv’s eponymous Facebook page.

Seorae Village Flea Market/Vide Greniers

Ginkgo Tree Park, Seorae Village, Seocho-gu

Nov 14, 10am—1pm

A chance to sell off all the stuff you don’t need and meet other people in the heart of Seoul’s French community. There is no participation fee, but 10% of earnings will be collected and given to charity. Apply by Nov 9; the 46 spaces available will be allocated on a first come, first served basis. To apply or see detailed regulations, please visit http://global.seoul.go.kr/seorae.

AWC Italian WineTasting and Dinner

Jazz Nights at Bella Coolla 63 As a special event for autumn, the wonderful Chungmuro Italian eatery Bella Coolla 63 will mellow out with a bit of intimate and soothing jazz every Thursday or Friday evening.

JFK (Jazz Future of Korea) is a project group formed by Korean musicians active in New York, the home of jazz. Bella Coolla 63 will also be hosting a "Wine and City" event every Thursday and Friday—15,000 won and 20,000 won options will allow you to choose from three kinds of wine, enjoyed over some simple dishes and wonderful jazz. The New Yorkstyle Italian restaurant of Myeong-dong's Astoria Hotel, Bella Coolla 63 merges history, style and great food for the perfect dining experience. For more information, call (02) 2275-7473 or send an email to bellacoolla@naver.com.

casAntonio, Itaewon

Nov 14, 6:30pm

A five-course dinner, each course with a different wine specially selected by a sommelier. Cost: 50,000 won (AWC members) or 60,000 won (non-members). More information at www.awckorea. org.

31st Annual SIWA and Diplomatic Community Bazaar Grand Hilton Hotel

Nov 17, 10am—4pm

Seoul International Women’s Assocation and 50 embassies from the diplomatic community host their annual bazaar once again, bringing you handicrafts, foods, wines, antiques, clothing, entertainment and other treasures from around the world.

Cost: 8,000 won (in advance) or 10,000 won (at the door). For more information or to volunteer, contact Cindy Trucksis and Tessa Almoite at bazaar@ siwapage.com.

ANZA Global Café Grand Hyatt

Nov 17, 10am

ANZA’s Global Café is a friendly and informal get-together for ANZA members and others from the expat community in Korea. It takes place on the third Tuesday of every month. Cost is 10,000 won (members) or 15,000 won (non-members). To attend, please register via the ANZA website: www.anzakorea.com.

AWC Newcomer Coffee

Belsize Park restaurant, Itaewon

Nov 20, 10am

Very informal coffee meeting with the American Women’s Club of Korea. More information at www.awckorea.org.

BASS Christmas Fair Seoul Club, Namsan

Nov 24, 10am—noon

A great Christmas shopping opportunity provided by the British Association of Seoul.

Many vendors will be selling a wide range of goods and some imported British foods (Marmite, Weetabix, Salad Cream, Quality Street [CAUTION: DO NOT MIX]). Cost: 10,000 won (BASS members) or 14,000 (nonmembers). For more details, email basseoul@yahoo.co.uk.

Cooking Class with Executive Chef of Grand Ambassador Hotel Grand Ambassador Hotel

Nov 25, 4pm—7:30pm

Spend the afternoon learning to cook a king crab and prepare king crab dishes with SIWA. Wayne Golding, the Grand Ambassador’s executive chef, will conduct the cooking demonstration. Cost: 70,000 won (including recipes, refreshments and a glass of wine). To register online, visit www.siwapage.com.

AustCham Sundowner

Blush Bar & Lounge, Intercontinental Hotel

Nov 27

RSVP by Nov 25. For time,

Got an item for our Community Page?

Send an email to writer@seoulselection.com

Travel & Culture SEOUL 83

Community Page cost and other details, contact the Australian Chamber of Commerce in Korea at exec@austchamkorea.org.

AWC 'Deck the Halls' Charity Fundraising Gala

Citibank Korea Building, 38 Dadong (on Cheonggyecheon Stream)

Dec 5, 7:30pm—midnight

Hors d’oeuvres, a tree-lighting ceremony, entertainment, a cash bar and a silent auction all feature at this event. The AWC aims to raise 20 million won for the benefit of AeRanWon Social Welfare Agency and “Another Home” (a shelter for abused girls). Cost: 60,000 won. Please RSVP to lis-awc@hotmail.com.

More information at www.awckorea.org.

Autumn Hiking

The cooler weather, clear skies and brilliant foliage make autumn possibly the best season for enjoying Korea’s many mountains. Seoul Hiking Club has headed for the hills every single weekend since 1998— to help maintain their record, contact Frank at 010-76687793 or frankbenedix@gmail. com. Costs vary: see www. hikingkorea.com for details.

Some hikes are in the Seoul areas, others further afield.

Korean Cultural Classes for Foreigners

Seorae Global Village Center Classes for foreigners on various themes in Korean culture: Maedeup (Korean traditional decorative knot) class: Nov 10, 17, 24; Dec 1, 8 (Tues), 10am— noon Bojagi (wrapping cloth) class: Nov 6, 13, 20, 27; Dec 4, 11 (Fri), 10am—noon Dasik (Korean traditional tea cake) making experience: Nov 18, 3pm—5pm Wine class: Nov 11, 18, 25; Dec 2, 9, 16, 8pm—10pm Pre-registration is required.

Please call (02) 2155-8915~6 or send an email to tbn2@sba. seoul.kr. For further information, please visit http://global.seoul. go.kr/seorae.

84 SEOUL November 2009

RAS Tours

Another month of tours every weekend from the Korea Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society: Mt. Jiri-san and Namwon (Oct 31— Nov 1), Juwang-san National Park and Jusan Reservoir hike (Nov 1), Seorak-san National Park and Waterpia Tour (Nov 4—5), Tongdo-sa and Haein-sa Temples (Nov 7—8), Yongmunsa Temple and Mt. Yongmun-san (Nov 8), South Jeolla: Land of Exile (Nov 14—15), Jeonju City: A Walk Through Joseon (Nov 14), Inner Seorak and South Seorak Mountain (Nov 21—22), Cheorwon birdwatching (Nov 28) and Mai-san Provincial Park (Nov 29). Costs vary according to tour. Tours depart from Yongsan Post Office at 8am, except the Cheorwon birdwatching tour, which departs at 8:30am from the same location. Advanced reservation necessary. See the RAS Korea Branch website (www.raskb.com) for further details, or contact Mrs Sue J Bae at 011-888-0580 or raskb@ kornet.net.

Root Experience Performers Playground The Hive, Itaewon

8pm—10:30pm (see below for dates)

The Root Experience theater company is starting a free weekly drop-in Performers' Playground in Seoul. Playing with various styles of dynamic performance and theatricality, the workshops will explore different theatrical ideas in a thriving shared creative environment. The workshops take place at the Hive in Itaewon from 8pm for 2½ hours every Wed evening from Oct 21 to Nov 11. They will then move to every Tuesday evening from Nov 17 until Christmas.

Volunteer Opportunities - English teaching: HOPE (Helping Others Prosper Through English). Visit www.alwayshope. or.kr.

- Seoul Volunteer Center: Language and culture teaching; environmental cleanup; visits to social welfare centers; heating briquette distribution to lowincome citizens. Visit volunteer.

seoul.go.kr to download an application form.

- AWC: help the American Women’s Club of Korea to run its second hand Thrift Shop (the proceeds of which go to US Forces Korea organizations and Korean charities); participate in its Hello Friends outreach program, visiting rural Korean communities to chat in English and promote intercultural contact; or participate in Got English?, a monthly Play Day with underprivileged children at afterschool centers in Incheon.

For more info, visit www.awckorea. org.

Beautiful Store Resale Shop

Beautiful Store takes donations of new and used articles for resale at low prices.

There are several branches across Seoul and donations can be picked up by arrangement.

No furniture accepted. For more information, call (02) 3676-1009, Ext 141.

Upgrade for Seven Luck Casino Seoul Gangnam

Exclusive foreigner casino Seven Luck’s Gangnam branch has just got a whole lot bigger thanks to the opening of a brand new third story. The casino’s new extension, the product of a three-month, 8.3 billion won renovation project, was created with customer segments with high levels of game experience in mind. As such, it features a sophisticated interior and greets customers with five VIP rooms and an open hall containing 19 tables, bringing Seven Luck Casino Seoul Gangnam’s total capacity to 74 tables and 112 slot machines. For more information, see the casino’s website at www.7luck.com.

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86 SEOUL November 2009

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