SEOUL Magazine 2010 September by Seoul Selection

Korea’s No.1 Hair & Beauty Salon Franchise Main branches

Cheongdam T. 02-511-1414 Daechi-dong

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Gangnam-gu Office

Sohwa Children’s Hospital

SC First Bank Station, Line 7, Exit 8 Wooridul Hospital

Kookmin Bank

VIPS Gangnam District Tax Office

Seoul Station T. 02-364-1415 Gongdeok Ogeori

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Park Jun Beauty Lab Myeong-dong (2nd/3rd Flr)

Korail Seoul Office

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Seoul Station (3rd Flr, Lotte Mart car park),

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Park Jun Beauty Lab

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(Galleria Dept. Store)

Cheongdam 31-12 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Yeongyang Center

Migliore Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit

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Seoul Station (Line 4) Seoul Station (Line 1) Byeoksan Building

Namdaemun Police Station

Cinus Namsan

Nam daemun Yeonse Daeu Building Building Hoehyeon Myeong-dong City Hall

C/o/n/t/e/n/t/s

exploring Seoul

Exploring a Capital of Design Fans of design are flocking to Seoul. SEOUL helps you discover why.

cultural hot spots

BACK THE WAY IT SHOULD BE

Newly restored Gwanghwamun gate puts the center of royal Seoul in line again

travel

A CULTURAL UPRISING Gwangju hosts a thriving biennale and plenty more

C/o/n/t/e/n/t/s

streetwise in Seoul

THE GREAT CHUSEOK ESCAPE tourist spot

N Seoul Tower medical tourism

An Active Approach to Wellness special report i

COMING TO A TABLE NEAR YOU

Seoul dining for beginners

special report ii

SEEING RED IN MUNGYEONG Seoul personalities

Kim Young-il

hotel news

event calendar

goings on around town

SEOUL LIVING 66 68

74 76

special report iii

Global Mobility dining out

FOOD ALCHEMY nightlife

ON A ROLL lifestyle & leisure

Have a Cigar shopping

SHOPPING LIKE BACK HOME special report iii

CLIMBING OVER THE LANGUAGE BARRIER

Seoul of zen

community page

oriental medicine

CBS 56th Anniversary

A special celebration of 20 years of Korean-Russian diplomatic relations

Russia Novosibirsk State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre

Alexander Borodin's Great Opera

The long waited Opera Prince Igor arrives in Seoul. More than 250 of the world's top artists come together in Seoul for a historic performance!

2010.10.7(Thu) ~ 10.10(Sun)

Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center

Thu, Fri 7:30 PM / Sat 5 PM / Sun 4 PM

Hosted by :

Inquiries : CBS Performing Arts & Music Center

Reservations :

Tickets : VIP 250,000 | R 200,000 | A 100,000 | B 50,000

TRAVEL & CULTURE

Maps & Guides

Subscribe Now! September 2010 Issue No. 86 Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editorial Advisor Chung Kyung-a Kay Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Production Editor Ben Jackson Copy Editor Colin Mouat Staff Reporter/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Head Designer Jung Hyun-young Designers Min So-young Kim Young-ju, Lee Bokhyun, Shin Eun-ji Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Contributors Daniel Gray Scott Hammel Kim Sungjin Patricia Park Raimund Royer Hughie Samson Subul Sunim Gitte Zschoch Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by Prinpia (Tel 82-2-3282-8589) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise — without the written consent of the publishers. SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (writer@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space. In addition to our monthly magazine SEOUL, we offer a free online SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul. E-mail your subscription request to sense@seoulselection.com (82-2-734 9567, www.seoulselection.com).

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cover shoot

Model: Kow Ea-rin Photographer: Ryu Seunghoo Assistants: Ko Yeon Kyung and Shin Eunji

Modeling for SEOUL's cover this month is Kow Ea-rin, on a hot August morning in Dongdaemun History & Culture Park. For more information on the park and other design landmarks in the capital, see this month's "Exploring Seoul" (p12â&#x20AC;&#x201D;17) Kow's hair and makeup were styled courtesy of Lee Kang Un Cupermâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;see the Daehangno section of our Maps & Guides supplement (p18, B1). Seoul Selection's Facebook page welcomes reader contributions. Please send any of your snaps from around Seoul and Korea to writer@seoulselection.com and we'll be happy to upload them.

ExPLORING A CAPITAL Of DESIGN

Fans of design are flocking to Seoul. We help you discover why. Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

12 SEOUL September 2010

n selecting Seoul to its list of places to see in 2010, the New York Times wrote that the world’s design aficionados are heading to the city “drawn by the Korean capital’s glammed-up cafés and restaurants, immaculate art galleries and monumental fashion palaces.” With a single-minded focus, Seoul—designated World Design Capital 2010 by the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design—is transforming itself into an aesthetically beautiful, human-centered, and ecologically friendly city of the future. For architects and designers with dreams and ambition, Seoul is one of the places to be. Here’s our selection of the capital’s design highlights. 2

Suggested itinerary 1. Sunrise at Seonyudo Park 2. Changdeokgung Palace 3. Ssamziegil 4. Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park 5. Kyungdong Presbyterian Church 6. former Seo Gynecological Clinic 7. Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art 8. Ann Demeulemeester Shop 9. Urban Hive 10. Sunset at Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow fountain

3 5

6 7

8 10 9

Seonyudo Park

(SeoAhn Total Landscape)

Built at the site of a former water treatment plant on an islet in the Hangang River, Seonyudo Park (opened in 2002) is symbolic of Seoul’s effort to transform old industrial sites into public green space. The crumbling concrete and rusting steel infrastructure of the old facility have largely been left in place but now hold botanical gardens of aquatic plants, an amphitheater, streams, forests, a café and museums. The park received a Design Award of Merit from the American Society of Landscape Artists in 2004. Hours: 6am to midnight Admission: Free T. (02) 3780-0590 Getting There: It’s a seven-minute walk from Exit 2 of Seonyudo Station, Line 9.

Sightseeing Tip The sunrises and sunsets here are fantastic. Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park

travel & culture SEOUL 13

exploring Seoul Changdeokgung Palace’s Huwon Garden (Joseon Era) Nowhere is Korea’s traditional design aesthetic on better display than in the royal garden of Changdeokgung Palace. Pleasure ponds and simple pavilions blend in seamlessly with the landscape, perfectly harmonizing the natural and manmade. Natural harmony and simplicity are the defining characteristics of Korean design, ones that continue to the present day. Hours: 9am to 5:30pm (palace), guided tours of the garden throughout the day. Closed Mondays. Admission: 3,000 won for the palace and another 5,000 won for the garden tour. T. (02) 762-8261 Getting There: Exit 3, Anguk Station, Line 3

Ssamziegil

(Choi Moon-gyu & Gabriel Kroiz)

Seonyudo Park

Located in the heart of Insa-dong, a center of Korean traditional arts and crafts, Ssamziegil hardly feels like a building at all. Rather, it seems like a hillside road surrounded by galleries, workshops, and craft stores. In a way, it’s a microcosm of Seoul itself, a place where ancient and modern coexist side by side. Hours: 10:30am to 9pm T. (02) 736-0088 Getting There: Exit 6, Anguk Station, Line 3

Food & Drink In Insa-dong, you’ll be tripping over Korean restaurants and teahouses. If you’re a vegetarian, give a try to Sanchon (02 7350312), which specializes in Buddhist temple cuisine. This writer also recommends the traditional teahouse Insa-dong (02 7325257) Changdeokgung Palace’s Huwon Garden

Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park (Zaha Hadid)

The “headliner” of Seoul’s design makeover is the massive Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park near Dongdaemun Market. Designed by British star architect Zaha Hadid, the park/plaza was not without its controversy, as its construction required the removal of historic Dongdaemun S t a d i u m . T h e d e s i g n , h o w e v e r, i s t r u l y spectacular, with park and plaza blending seamlessly to form a continuous landscape. The plaza section is scheduled for completion next year, but the park section—properly referred to as Dongdaemun History & Culture Park—is now open. A visually captivating stroll, day or night.

14 SEOUL September 2010

Ssamziegil

Hours: 10am to 9pm, closed Jan 1, Seollal, and Chuseok Admission: Free T. (02) 2266-7088 Getting There: Exit 1, Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station, Line 2, 4, or 5

Food & Drink The park is also home to a beautiful branch of the coffee shop Caffé Bene. Get something to drink and take advantage of its free Internet service—on Macs, no less!

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church (Kim Swoo-geun, 1980)

Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park

No tour of Seoul’s design heritage would be complete without visiting the work of two pioneering architects, Kim Swoo-geun and Kim Chung-up (see below). The founder of SPACE, one of Korea’s leading architecture firms, Kim Swoo-geun (1931—1986) not only lifted the profile of Korean architecture but was also a major patron of the arts. Designed to resemble praying hands, Kyungdong Presbyterian Church in Jangchung-dong is widely praised as both his masterpiece and one of Korea’s most sublime pieces of modern architecture. T. (02) 2274-0161 Getting There: Exit 4, Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station, Line 2, 4, or 5. Cross the street and walk straight until you get to the church.

Sightseeing Tip The church is usually locked, so if you want to see inside it’s best to pop by right before services on Sunday (9:30am and 11:30am) and Wednesday (7:30pm). Kyungdong Presbyterian Church

Food & Drink Nearby are a number of restaurants specializing in jokbal : pork trotters, steamed and sliced.

Former Seo Gynecological Clinic (Kim Chung-up, 1965)

A student of the legendary Le Corbusier, Kim Chung-up (1922—1988)'s work shows a distinct Le Corbusier influence, it also seeks to express Korean traditional architecture in modern terms. He’s most famous for the French Embassy (1965) and Peace Gate of Olympic Park (1988), but this small former gynecological clinic near Dongdaemun displays Kim’s Corbuesque touch, with its thick walls of exposed concrete and Gaudi-esque balconies. Former Seo Gynecological Clinic

Getting There: Exit 3, Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station, Line 2, 4, or 5 travel & culture SEOUL 15

exploring Seoul Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art

(Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel, and Rem Koolhaas)

Samsung spared no expense in building its flagship art museum in Itaewon, bringing in three of the world’s top architects. Museum 1, inspired by Korean porcelain, was designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, while Museum 2 was designed by Frenchman Jean Nouvel, and the Samsung Child Education & Culture Center by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. In the courtyard, several of sculptor Louise Bourgeois’s giant bronze spiders are on hand to greet visitors. Inside the museum, meanwhile, is one of the country ’s top collections of Korean traditional and modern art. Hours: 10am to 6pm (9pm on Thursdays). Closed Mondays, Jan 1, Seollal, and Chuseok Admission: 10,000 won (but the architecture and courtyard can be enjoyed for free!) T. (02) 2014-6901 Getting There: Exit 1, Hangangjin Station, Line 6. Walk 100m and swing a right.

Food & Drink A short walk up the street brings you to the heart of Itaewon, home to Seoul’s best collection of international eats.

Ann Demeulemeester Shop (Mass Studies)

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art

Mass Studies, founded by architect Cho Minsuk in 2003, is a rising star on the world architecture and design stage. In the Ann Demeulemeester shop near Dosan Park, described by the New York Times as “an avantgarde Chia Pet,” it takes the synthesis between structure and nature to a new level by covering almost the entire building with a geotextile façade of living vegetation. Fascinating inside, too. Getting There: Take a taxi from Apgujeong or Sinsa Station, Line 3, to Horim Art Center (itself an impressive design). Walk north toward Dosan Park and swing a right on the second alley—the shop’s down the street.

Sightseeing Tip While you’re in the neighborhood, check out another spectacular piece of design, the 10 Corso Como shop in Cheongdam-dong. Food & Drink The area around Dosan Park is full of upscale cafés and eateries, including the colorfully named Italian eatery Gorilla in the Kitchen (02 3442-1688). If this isn’t enough, try the nearby cafés of Garosu-gil, Apgujeong, and Cheongdam-dong.

16 SEOUL September 2010

Ann Demeulemeester Shop

Urban Hive

(Kim In-cheurl)

Nonhyeon-dong’s seventeen-story Urban Hive “has all the elements to become a representative structure for the area and the entire city itself,” according to one leading academic. It’s not called a “hive” for nothing: its concrete exterior is covered with 3,371 circular holes, giving it the appearance of a beehive. The exterior wall actually serves as the main support structure, necessitating ingenious solutions during construction. The views from the upper floors are said to be remarkable; unfortunately, the only part of the building open to the public is the admittedly excellent Take Urban café on the bottom floor. It was awarded the 2009 Seoul Architecture Award. Getting There: Exit 3, Sinnonhyeon Station, Line 9

Urban Hive

Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain One of the landmark pieces of the Hangang Renaissance Project, Seoul’s initiative to revive the Hangang River waterfront, Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain is among the world’s most impressive fountains and, according to the Guinness Book, the longest bridge fountain on earth. With some 380 nozzles and 200 lights running down 1,140m of the bridge, the fountain makes for a spectacular night scene, when it dances to music. Hours: 8pm and 9pm on weekdays and every hour from 7pm on weekends. Getting There: It’s a 5 to 10 minute walk from Exit 8, Express Bus Terminal Station, Line 3.

Seoul Design Fair 2010 Seoul’s Olympic Stadium plays host to the Seoul Design Fair from Sept 17 to Oct 7. Presented under the theme “Design for All,” it’s a good opportunity to see the latest trends in design, both in Seoul and abroad. See p. 54 for more information.

Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain

For more information on locations of the places mentioned here, see our Maps & Guides supplement.

streetwise in Seoul

THE GREAT CHUSEOK ESCAPE How to slip out of the metropolis without enduring traffic mayhem Written by Ben Jackson

EOUL presents a selection of destinations that are well outside the capital but still served by its sprawling underground railway network, letting you escape the city during the Chuseok public holiday (Sep 21—23) without getting caught up in the inevitable traffic gridlock above ground. We’ve even suggested books to take along for the long subterranean journey...

● Cheorwon—Korean War ruins Head north, right up to the wild border with North Korea, to see some gutted and haunting architectural reminders of the violence that hit this peninsula only 60 years ago. More info: http://english.visitkorea.or.kr > search for “Cheorwon” Getting there: Dongducheon Station, Line 1. Transfer to the Gyeongwon commuter line train to Sintan-ri (end of the line). Get a bus to the ruins. Subway reading: “The Rainy Spell” (2002). Suh Jimoon’s translation of Yun Heung-gil’s novella about a divided family in the Korean War. One of the best works of fiction dealing with the war. 5,000 won.

● Incheon—sun, sea and jajangmyeon This historic port city just to the west of Seoul is well worth a visit, especially the old town. Chinatown restaurant Mandabok (032-773-3838) serves baengnyeon jajang (100-year jajang ). You could even catch a boat to the nearby historic island of Palmi-do. More info: www.seoulselection.com > “Old Jemulpo” (Incheon) and “Insular Excursion” (Palmido). Incheon tourism (032) 1330. Getting there: Incheon Station (final stop), Line 1. Subway reading: “Korea Through Western Eyes” (2009) by early-modern Korean historian Robert Neff. 25,000 won.

● Suwon—Hwaseong Fortress This magnificent late 18th century UNESCO World Heritage Site was built by Joseon monarch Jeongjo and reflects many of the ideals of the scientifically oriented silhak intellectual movement. The whole fortress offers a good day’s hiking and exploring. More info: www.seoulselection.com > “Hwaseong Fortress” Getting there: Suwon Station, Line 1. Subway reading: “Everlasting Empire” (2002). Award-winning translation by Yu Young-nan of Yi In-hwa’s gripping Korean historical novel written as a mystery story, set in Seoul at the time of King Jeongjo. 34,000 won.

18 SEOUL September 2010

● Cheonan—Independence Hall of Korea Occupying an enormous and awesome complex, the Independence Hall is known as one of Korea’s best museums. Modern art aficionados can make a detour to Arario Gallery near the bus terminal. More info: www.independence.or.kr, www. arariogallery.co.kr Getting there: Cheonan Station, Line 1. Take bus No. 400 from Dongbu Square in front of the station. Read on the subway: “Korea’s Place in the Sun” (2005). Historian Bruce Cumings’ acclaimed modern history of Korea. Around 25,000 won.

● Yongin—Korean Folk Village Not a genuine old village but a very large and highquality recreation, giving a fascinating feel of Korean traditional village life. Often used a set for historic films and TV dramas. More info: www.koreanfolk.co.kr Getting there: Suwon Station, Line 1. A free shuttle bus runs to the folk village. Read on the subway: “Folk Tales from Korea” (2005). Jeong In-seop’s collection and translation of dozens of Korean folk tales—a glimpse into an altogether different and vanishing culture. 15,000 won.

● Royal Tombs—beautiful forest settings There are 40 Joseon royal tombs within 40km of central Seoul’s Gyeongbokgung Palace. SEOUL recommends the largest cluster, Donggureung Tomb Complex, and the Hongneung and Yu r e u n g c o m p l e x , w h e r e Emperors Gojong and Sunjeong of the short-lived Daehan Empire (1897—1910) are buried in East Asian imperial style. More info: http://english.cha. go.kr > Royal Palaces & Tombs Getting there: Donggureung— Guri Station, Jungang [Central] Line, Exit 3. Take bus No. 6-2; Hongneung and Yureung— Donong Station, Jungang [Central] Line, Exit 2. Cross the road and take bus No. 23 to “Hongyureung” or No. 165 to “Saneung Ipgu.” Subway reading: “The Red Queen” (2005). Margaret Drabble’s novel based on the memoirs of an 18th century Korean crown princess. Around 17,000 won.

travel & culture SEOUL 19

cultural hot spots

BACK THE WAY IT SHOULD BE Newly restored Gwanghwamun gate puts the center of royal Seoul in line again

Written by Ben Jackson Photographed by Robert Koehler and Ryu Seunghoo

20 SEOUL September 2010

The Gwanghwamun gate is back—for now. Fo u r y e a r s o f m e t i c u l o u s d i s m a n t l i n g, excavation, research, and rebuilding have given Seoul back one of its most central landmarks. Situated in the middle of the southern wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Gwanghwamun straddles the all-important north-south axis around which the old city was built according to geomantic principles (pungsujiri ). And the area around Gwanghwamun has a range of other places worth visiting after you’ve taken a look at the masterfully restored gate itself.

Troubled history Gwanghwamun was first built in 1395, soon after the founding of Korea’s Joseon Dynasty (1392—1910), whose first monarch chose Seoul as his capital. It was burned down during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, finally rebuilt in 1865, tampered with and reoriented during Japan’s occupation of Korea (1910—

1945), destroyed again during the Korean War (1950—1953), and rebuilt by special presidential order in 1968. This latest restoration, however, left the gate at the misaligned angle of the Japanese alteration and concealed a steel structure—a far cry from the original genuine wooden building.

National symbol Beginning four years ago, however, teams of historians and skilled craftsmen began a project to dismantle the gate and restore it to its original position using traditional construction methods. As well as being a question of national pride, the reconstruction also brought about a major mobilization of traditional craftsmen, including stonemasons, carpenters, painters, and tile makers. Not least among the difficulties faced by these masters of their crafts was locating Korean red pines of sufficient height, girth, and quality in the eastern mountains of Gangwon-do to provide the many pillars and beams demanded by the gate’s intricate wooden skeleton. On Aug 15, the anniversary of the end of Japan’s colonial occupation of Korea, the completed gate was unveiled—another symbolic step for a country whose memories of hostile foreign domination still loom large and vivid. The heart of royal Seoul thus regained its all-important alignment.

Tel 02 722 5622 fax 02 722 5623 Opening hours 11:30 a.m.~11:30 p.m.(Closed on Sunday) N°85 Susong-dong Jongno-Gu Seoul Korea Somerset Palace 1F, Exit 1 ortravel 6 from Anguk Station, Line 3 & culture SEOUL 21

cultural hot spots

Gwanghwamun Square and its giant statue of King Sejong

Around Gwanghwamun The Gwanghwamun area is also host to various other attractions that are worth a visit. Below are some of the main highlights:

Gwanghwamun Square

English Books on Korea While you're in Gwanghwamun, stop by Seoul Selection Bookshop, conveniently located just to the east of Gyeongbokgung Palace. In addition to English books and on Korea and Korean movie DVDs, we also sell coffee and dispense useful travel information. T. (02) 734-9565 Hours: 9:30am to 6:30pm, Mon—Sat 22 SEOUL September 2010

In the year since its opening, this chameleonlike public space has undergone multiple incarnations, including those of an enormous snowboard jumping slope and a winter ice skating complex. By July of this year, after less than a year open, it had been visited by 14 million people—an average of 37,000 every day. It also runs participatory programs based on history and tradition that are joined daily by hundreds of people. The square's permanent fountains are a hit among hot children in summer, while its underground space features exhibition halls on the lives and achievements of two of Korea’s greatest historical figures—King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sun-sin—whose statues can be found on the square itself. Gwanghwamun Sqaure was planned in order to bring much of Sejongno, the wide boulevard that leads up to Gwanghwamun gate and the Gyeongbokgung Palace, back to the general public and away from domination by motorized vehicles. The thoroughfare is of high historical and cultural importance to Korea, forming part of the axis begun in the north by Mt. Bugaksan and continued by Gyeongbokgung itself. The square was completed on August 1, 2009. Following the opening of the square, a series of high profile events saw its space radically transformed several times, as part of a strategy of maximizing publicity for the new facility. The scale of these transformations was enough to

give rise to controversy and, as a result, the city authorities have been running the square in a less extravagant manner since the beginning of this year. This has lent it a certain "empty blank slate" image at times. Now, on the first anniversary of the square, the city is working to gather the opinions of experts and the general public in order to develop a strong identity for the nation's central square and to better plan its future. See http://square.sisul.or.kr (English, Korean).

Olleh Square Like a few other “squares” in Seoul, Olleh Square is actually a building. Run by telecommunications giant KT, it opened after remodeling this May to reveal various lounges and cafés where you can experience the latest IT and telecommunications devices and technology while generally relaxing. Olleh Square’s famous “1,000 won performances” are a key attraction. Almost every day of the week, groups representing various genres perform in the afternoon or evening in the building’s amphitheater-like auditorium. Tickets not bought online in advance are sold at the door before performances. See http://ollehsquare.kt.com (in Korean).

Kyobo Book Centre Korea’s largest and best-known offline bookstore reopened on Aug 27 after several months of interior refurbishment. It has good collections of foreign books, Korean books in foreign languages, stationery, CDs, and much more. A favorite among expats. See www.kyobobook.co.kr (in Korean).

A hairdresser from London

Pete Kang

Sejong Center for the Performing Arts If you ever wondered where Asia’s largest pipe organ is, take a look inside the main auditorium of this imposing cultural complex. With a façade that unifies Western and Korean traditional architectural designs and symbols via the universal medium of concrete, the center also contains a smaller performance hall, several galleries, and more. Resident companies include the Seoul Philharmonic. One of Korea’s two leading performance venues, the center regularly hosts world-class musicians, artworks, and productions. See www.sejongpac.or.kr (English, Korean).

Bigak Pavilion

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For more information on locations of the places mentioned here, see the Gwanghwamun section of our Maps & Guides supplement, p. 8.

Bis ) Haierad Salon JA m A H K E L E ngda

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A wooden pavilion built in 1902, in the final years before Korea’s annexation by Japan, to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the coronation of King Gojong. In fact, Gojong was known as Emperor Gwangmu at the time, since he had proclaimed the Daehan Empire in 1897, replacing the 500-year-old Joseon Dynasty. Located just south of the Kyobo Building.

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Call Pete: 010-3596-2869

100-17, Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

news

Sejong Belt integrates Gwanghwamun entertainment cornucopia Seoul’s Gwanghwamun area is crammed with performance venues, art galleries, and museums; now, Seoul has established a scheme entitled “Sejong Belt” that connects all these sites in a bid to create a cultural district to rival Broadway in New York and the West End in London. In August, a Sejong Belt ticketing and information center opened under Gwanghwamun Square, offering a one-stop ticket reservation, purchase, and issuing service. Professional coordinators will offer custom-made guidance in Korean, English, Chinese, or Japanese on experiencing art and culture in the city center. Sejong Belt will also offer more than 50 kinds of integrated culture and art packages, the first of their kind in

Korea, allowing customers to enjoy programs that suit their own tastes at discounts that range from 20% to 50%. Once a month, the scheme plans to issue special 10,000 won tickets that grant entry into all performances and exhibitions within the belt.

travel & culture SEOUL 23

tourist spot

N Seoul Tower Seoul landmark offers spectacular views ...and so much more Photographed by Kim Sungjin | Written by Robert Koehler

ost people come to N Seoul Tower for the views. When they get here, though, they find a cultural space that would be well worth the visit even if it weren’t atop a small mountain with jaw-dropping panoramic views of the city. Located on the summit of Mt. Namsan (262m), N Seoul Tower was completed in 1969. Originally serving as a communication tower, it was opened to the public as a leisure facility in 1980 and has been a popular tourist destination ever since. The tower itself is 236.7m from its base, although thanks to its location it tops out at 479.7m. From its observation decks, visitors are afforded breathtaking views of Seoul. On clear days, you can see as far as Incheon, and even North Korea. N Seoul Tower is more than just a tall building, though. It is also home to restaurants, cafés, museums, exhibits, and even a beer

24 SEOUL September 2010

garden. The plaza beneath is a popular recreation venue for urban walkers who come for the spectacular sunrises, sunsets, and nighttime views.

Laser Light Show One reason to come to N Seoul Tower at night is the brilliant laser light shows. For 10 minutes on the hour every hour starting at sunset (8pm to 11pm in the summer, 7pm to 10pm in the winter), you can take in “Electronic Fire” by French light artist Alexandre Kolinka. “The Flower of Seoul,” another light show, runs for 10 minutes half past the hour every hour. The shows are truly awesome, combining light, music, mist, and space to brilliant effect. Also on hand to greet visitors are the heavenly figures of Cédric Le Borgne's “Travelers,” human forms seemingly floating in the air.

One of Cédric Le Borgne's “Travelers” flies above the plaza below N Seoul Tower

Hours

Getting There

Mon—Thur/Sun: Observatory— 10am to 11pm, Restaurant— 11am to 11pm, Teddy Bear Museum—10am to 10pm (ticketing closes at 9pm) Fri—Sat: Observatory—10am to midnight, Restaurant—11am to 11pm (dining until midnight), Teddy Bear Museum—10am to 6pm

You could always hike to the top of Mt. Namsan—there are paths on both the north and south sides of the hill, with scenic observation spots along the way. The hike takes about 30—40 minutes. Likewise, there’s a cable car that will take you to the peak (fare: 7,500 won round trip, 6,000 won one way). The lower terminal is a 10 minute walk from Exit 3 of Chungmuro Station, Line 3 or 4. Lastly, there are regular buses that depart from near Exit 2 of Chungmuro Station—they run between 8am and midnight.

Admission Observatory: 8,000 won. Packages for restaurants, museums, etc., available.

Revolving restaurant For a dinner with a view, try the N Grill restaurant— it revolves 360 degrees every 48 minutes!

Better than bathroom reading After you’ve taken in the views from the restroom of the Sky Café relieving yourself will never be the same again.

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More Info The center is becoming increasingly popular, so walk-ins are not always available. It is better to make an appointment. Visit the website for more details: www.nywholisticcare.com. T. (02) 792-2296 (Itaewon branch), (02) 730-9896 (new Gwanghwamun branch)

Getting There Itaewon Station, Line 6, Exit 3. The center is above the Hyundai dealership. For the Gwangwhamun clinic: Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 6. The clinic is located on the fourth floor of the Gyeonghuigungui Achim building.

An Active Approach to Wellness

New York Wholistic Care teaches you to stay healthy Written by Robert Koehler Photographs courtesy of New York Wholistic Care

26 SEOUL September 2010

or four years, Dr. Vincent Jong has been bringing wholistic healing to a primarily expatriate clientele at New York Wholistic Care in Itaewon. Of course, if you live in Itaewon this has been great, but for those in the downtown area it could be a pain-in-theneck—just the sort of thing for a chiropractor, actually—to get to Itaewon on a busy Seoulite’s schedule. Until now, that is. With a new clinic in the Gyeonghuigung-ui Achim building, just behind the landmark Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, Jong and his team bring their healing skills to Seoul’s historic downtown. “I’ve been running up and down between the two clinics,” says Jong, whose clinic offers a wide range of treatments, including chiropractic (active release technique and Graston technique), aroma therapy, posture rehabilitation, iridology, and the everpopular Pilates. The new Gwanghwamun branch has two therapy rooms and three Pilates studios.

NEW YORK Wholistic Care

Passive vs. active care New York Wholistic Care is targeted toward self-management of one’s health. Jong notes that maintaining wellness “is like learning how to eat or brush your teeth.” What this requires is active care. “Passive care is needed when you have some condition,” explains Jong, who has a decade’s worth of experience as a chiropractor, mostly in New York. His mission, he says, is to keep you out of his office. “The goal of this office is not for you to keep coming to this clinic forever,” he explains, “but to teach you how to take care of your own body through various methods like exercise, massage, and stretching. And with so many things out there nowadays, to teach you what you need and don’t need.”

A healthy balance...and Pilates As the name of his clinic suggests, Jong practices “wholistic” care. “We look at the body as a whole,” he elaborates. “You might have neck pain, but you also have knee pain. Your neck pain could be because you are limping, causing lower back pain.” Being healthy requires a balance of three things, says Jong. The first is structure—bones, muscles, tendons, and the like need to be in proper working order. You need to have a proper chemical balance—this can be corrected through supplements in the case of disorder. Finally, there is the psychological aspect: what you are thinking can affect your body. New York Wholistic tries to address all these aspects of health, but Pilates is a good place to start. One of New York Wholistic Care’s most popular programs, Pilates—originally created to help rehabilitate wounded soldiers after World War I—uses your body ’s own weight to exercise, all thanks to spring resistance. The clinic uses state - of-the -art V2 Max Plus “Reformers” as its main equipment. Says Jong, “You can hardly stress yourself doing Pilates. In this, it differs from fixed-weight training.”

Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care The ultimate place to reenergize your mind and body, correct your structural imbalances and achieve optimum health and body awareness. Dr. Vincent Jong, a well-trained, experienced New York chiropractor, has a multi-faceted approach to patient care that integrates chiropractic care with individually custom-designed pilates and yoga. NY Wholistic Care is completely furnished with state-ofthe-art pilates equipment, including the most recent version of V2Max Reformers. Restore the normal balance of your body through soothing therapeutic massage. Don’t forget to sign up to explore your body composition with an Integrated Iridologist at NYWC. All staff are bilingual and internationally certified in their field of specialization. Take a direct path to wellness and vitality at NY Wholistic Care.

Chiropractic Pilates/Yoga Pre/Post natal care Therapeutic massage Integrated Iridology Office Hours Mon ~ Fri : 8am ~ 8pm Sat : 8am ~ 5pm

T. 02. 792. 2296 Dr. Vincent Jong US Board Certifed

www.nywc.co.kr

736-21 Hannam-dong Yongsan-gu Hyundai Car Dealer bldg, 2nd fl. 서울시 용산구 한남동 736-21 현대자동차빌딩 2층 travel & culture SEOUL 27

US, France, and other International Health Insurance benefits available.

travel

A CULTURAL UPRISING Gwangju hosts a thriving biennale and plenty more Written by Hughie Samson | Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

he southwestern corner of the Korean peninsula is a lush and verdant place. Mountains extend over emerald fields, and tranquil islands dot the clear and bright coast. Mt. Mudeungsan, eulalia flowers and maples gracing its slopes, rises up in the center of the region. Gwangju, two thousand years old, is tucked in comfortably next to it.

28 SEOUL September 2010

A little bit of history With more than 1,400,000 inhabitants, Gwangju is the most populous city in Jeollanam-do. It is a vibrant and colorful place, and its citizens are determined to preserve its traditions. They look forward as well as backward, however, and in addition to being genuine, friendly, and self-aware, they are also savvy, fashionable, well- educated—and patriotic. In 1592 and again in 1929, they rose up against their Japanese colonial oppressors. Their fearlessness triggered large-scale national uprisings that eventually cast the Japanese out. In May 1980, Gwangju’s citizens demonstrated against the military government ruling Korea at that time. They gained control of the city and took up arms to protect themselves, but many of them were mercilessly killed. Their deaths ultimately highlighted the faults of the day’s military government and helped launch Korea into a more democratic era. These events took place just thirty years ago, and many of Gwangju’s still-living citizens participated in them first hand.

“Make your smile forever” * Professional clinic: Implant esthetic clinic, prosthodontics

esthetic clinic, endodontic restorative clinic, orthodontics esthetic clinic, oral & maxillofacial clinic, periodontics clinic, pedodontics clinic and power whitening clinic.

* Brand new equipment: State-of-the-art instruments, including

lasers, fully digital X-rays (low radiation emission) and brand new equipment are ready for patients.

* Large-scale dental clinic: 13 separate rooms and 20 chairs. * English-speaking staff treat you like a V.I.P from beginning to end. * Aboveground parking provides you with large spaces for a hundred vehicles on the first floor of the building.

* Dental insurance forms completed * Weekdays Consultation hours at night

Han River Pizza Hut 3F

◀ Dr. Ha has appeared on “MBC Good Day” as a dental adviser.

Soonchunhyang University Hospital Free Parking (100 cars) is available.

• Opening Hours Mon. - Fri. 9:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Sat. 9:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Sun. 9:30 a.m. -1:00 p.m. Venture B/D 3F, 76-6 Hannam-dong Yongsan-gu, Seoul May 18 National Cemetry

Appointments in English | Tel: 02-795-1599 | www.chicagotooth.co.kr

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Things to see and do • Geumnamno... Gwangju bustles, and nowhere does it bustle more than Geumnamno. Geumnamno is Gwangju’s pedestrianized downtown core, and it is one of the densest, liveliest, most intoxicating places you will encounter anywhere at all on the entire peninsula. Bakeries, bars, beauty shops, boutiques, cafés, clubs, lodgings, pubs...they’re all here, they’re all mesmerizing, and they’re all jam-packed into an incredibly small area.

Gwangju Museum of Art

... and nearby Many other interesting areas can be reached from Geumnamno on foot. Just to the north is Art Street. Art Street is a quiet and refreshing strip of shops, studios, and galleries. Contemporary artwork, traditional artwork, and art supplies can all be bought here. The Gwangju River borders Geumnamno to the south, and just opposite its banks is another fascinating area rich in history. Hours can be spent wandering amongst Sajik Park; the House of Missionary Woo Il-seon (the oldest westernstyle house in Gwangju, said to date from the 1920s); Owen Memorial Hall; Hyanggyo (the Confucian School that still holds memorial services to Confucius twice a year); and Acoustic Guitar Street (where music can often b e h e a r d i n t h e e v e n i n g s ) . Fi n a l l y, t o Geumnamno’s southwest—just a short stroll westward down the river—is sprawling Yangdong Market, Gwangju’s best and biggest traditional market. • May 18 National Cemetery Several monuments and parks within the city commemorate the 1980 uprising: the Gwangju Student Independence Movement Memorial Hall, May 18 Freedom Park, May 18 Memorial Park, and the area around the Old Provincial Hall in Geumnamno, to name but a few. May 18 National Cemetery, situated north of the city proper, also commemorates the uprising. At the time, the bodies of many of the victims were carried away and buried without ceremony. In 1997, however, the victims’ bodies were exhumed and transferred to this cemetery. The grounds are consequently quite expansive, and a memorial tower was built at their center to suggest resurrection and new life. A small museum displays photographs and video footage taken during the massacre. • Jungoe Park Back inside the city, green and grassy Jungoe Park should also be visited. It contains sports facilities, interesting monuments, several lovely

30 SEOUL September 2010

Jeungsinsa Temple on Mt. Mudeungsan

cafés, a children’s amusement park, an outdoor amphitheater, and some pleasant hiking trails as well. The park is also home to the Gwangju Municipal Folk Museum and its displays of regional folk artifacts and dioramas, and the Gwangju Museum of Art and its thoughtprovoking exhibitions of contemporary and traditional art. The Gwangju National Museum houses a permanent collection of historical and cultural relics and is just a short walk north of the park on foot. The Gwangju Culture and Art Centre, located south of the park, regularly hosts a wide range of live performances, but it is just far enough that transportation is required to reach it. Finally, on the southeastern edge of J u n g o e Pa r k , n e a r t h e a f o r e m e n t i o n e d G w a n g j u M u n i c i p a l Fo l k M u s e u m a n d Gwangju Art Museum, is Gwangju Biennale Exhibition Hall. • 10,000 Lives: The Eighth Gwangju Biennale Still unsure about visiting Gwangju? It’s got one more feather in its cap: the Gwangju Biennale will open on Sep 3 (and run until Nov 7), and is nothing less than Asia’s oldest and most prestigious biennial of contemporary art. It is a highlight of the international contemporary art circuit as well, and this year’s lineup looks as spectacular as any in its past: Pawel Althamer, Roberto Cuoghi, Keren Cytter, Tom Holert, Overplus Project, Cindy Sherman, Haegue Yang, Jakub Ziołkowski, and Artur Zmijewski are just a few of the many who will contribute. Three venues previously mentioned will host it— the Gwangju Municipal Folk Museum, the Gwangju Museum of Art, and the Gwangju Biennale Exhibition Hall—and they are all within walking distance of one another.

Outside Gwangju Those with more time on their hands should consider visiting Damyang—the center of bamboo cultivation and craftsmanship in the region—to the city ’s northeast, and the slopes of Mount Mudeungsan—where Uijae A r t M u s e u m a n d J e u n g s i m s a Te m p l e neighbor one another—to the east.

WHAT TO EAT Jeollanam-do prides itself upon preparing the best food in the country, and given Gwangju’s location in the center of Korea’s farmlands, the claim is probably more accurate than not. Residents of the region are also pioneers of organic and pesticide-free farming on the peninsula, so chances are your food won’t only taste better but be better for you, too.

WHERE TO STAY There are a ton of reasonably priced motels in the Sangmujigu District. If you're looking for something a bit more upscale, there's always the Ramada Plaza Gwangju (062 717-7000).

GETTING THERE Gwangju is accessible by train (from Seoul’s Yongsan Station, Line 1) or by bus (from Express Bus Terminal, Lines 3, 7 & 9). You can even catch a plane there from Gimpo Airport if you fancy it.

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COMING TO A TABLE NEAR YOU A Grassroots Approach to Korean Food Globalization Written by Daniel Gray

Daniel Gray is Marketing Director and Associate at O’ngo Food Communications (www.ongofood. com). He runs Seoul Eats, one of Korea’s top English-language food websites. Dan comments regularly on food-related matters in the Korean and Overseas press. For even more on Korean food, check out Korea Tourism Organization's new site dedicated to the subject: www.koreataste.org.

applaud the Korean people who are not afraid to eat kimchi overseas and to defend the taste. I applaud Korean food enthusiasts who take a friend with them to enjoy Korean food. I applaud those who have lived or traveled in Korea and then told others about their favorite restaurants. I applaud those who have cooked a Korean meal for friends and those who have given a present of Korean food or ingredients. I applaud all of you, for you have physically interacted with society. Your presence and the way that you speak about the food are powerful and make an immediate impact.

Physical contact: no substitute I feel that in this age of technology, it has become too easy to spread information, so that concepts and ideas are easily lost. I think we forget that technology is a tool that is supposed to augment our basic human abilities. We are substituting these tools for our innate ability to communicate and interact. 32 SEOUL September 2010

In this age of social networking and Blackberries, the idea of human, physical contact is simply refreshing, because it is so uncommon that it seems new.

Export tourism Whenever I travel to another country and go to meet people or go to a conference, I pack my suitcase with various Korean ingredients. I take juice boxes of soju (they are so unique that everyone loves them), meat sausages (people with iPods call it a “meat stylus”), ssamjang (my friends love to use this as a dip with carrots or cucumber or on sandwiches), and snacks (octopus and peanut snacks, choco pies, and shrimp chips). And—for my foodie friends—I always take gift sets filled with small tubes of gochujang , salt, injeolmi (roasted soybean powder), Boseong green tea, and black sesame seeds. As each new gift is unveiled, the room is filled with “oohs” and “ahhs.” Korean food takes center stage, and everyone wants to know about the culture, the taste, and my experience

of living in Korea. This kind of “export tourism” sheds the mystery of a nation that is infamously associated with North Korea, fermented cabbage, and the eating of dog. I figure if I can impress upon them how fascinating and fun the cuisine is, I can change their perspective and raise the profile of Korea. Let’s face it—food is very personal. If they like the food, they will associate it with the nation.

Taking food straight to the people I say that Korea needs to go grass roots with its marketing approach to Korean food. Let’s take the food to the people! Let’s stop telling people how colorful, healthy, and great Korean food is, and really have them taste it. There are barbecue and cooking fairs all around the world, and I think Korean chefs and home cooks should go there and start participating. People will come. (The Korean BBQ Cook-off in LA had almost 8,000 people show up last year.) There are also Korean restaurants around the world taking the food to the people. Let’s support them with menu consulting, advertising, and cultural education so that they can prosper overseas. One bad experience at a restaurant may be detrimental to the whole industry. Standards like a rating system (a kind of Korean Michelin Guide) should be instituted so that the restaurants have a stake in keeping quality and service high. And what about the sleeper cell restaurants (Korean-run restaurants serving other kinds of cuisine such as Japanese, Mexican, and Chinese)? Let’s help them introduce Korean ingredients and dishes on their menu. Finally, what about all the Korean university students, language exchangers, and children

who study overseas? I bet that every one of these people will have to give at least one presentation on Korea during his or her stay. Let’s provide them with CD-ROMs loaded with pictures, historical documents, short movies, and PowerPoint presentations so that they can easily share information on Korea.

Reliable guides and reviews And for those people who come to Korea, we should give them a cultural experience that they’ll remember for a lifetime. One of the problems is that finding good restaurants that cater to particular tastes might be a daunting task for tourists. Also, credible restaurant reviews and recommendations are needed. Cooking classes and culinary tours are a good idea as well, but it is important that they be interactive and fun. The problem I have had with many Korean cooking classes and tours is that they are translated from Korean to English. This often takes the personal interaction out of the tour. Now, I am not saying that Korea should stop its current marketing approach. TV shows, advertising in magazines, and the building of a web presence through blog partnerships are great, but a more personal touch is also needed. A rule of advertising is that a customer must see an advertisement at least 70 times before it registers: though not futile, it does take a long time. I’m saying that we should think creatively. Korea is not a country that was built on natural resources or military might, but by the will of the people. We should globalize Korean cuisine in the same manner.

1. Side dishes: one of Korean food's many charms. Photograph by Michelle Min 2. O'ngo Korean cooking class in progress. Photograph by Daniel Gray 3. The Kogi truck, a sensationally popular "traveling Los Angeles landmark that serves up Korean Mexican tacos, day and night." See kogibbq.com for more info. Photograph by Kogi BBQ

travel & culture SEOUL 33

Seoul dining for beginners

FIRST ENCOUNTERS WITH KOREAN FOOD

SEOUL's Editor-in-Chief, Robert Koehler, offers a select handful of Korean restaurant recommendations for absolute novices. All restaurants marked in Maps & Guides by

Korean Meat Dishes

Popular Korean meat dishes include galbi (ribs, either beef or pork), bulgogi (marinated beef grilled atop an open flame) and samgyeopsal (Korean-style bacon). Meat is typically eaten wrapped in a lettuce leaf with condiments.

Gogung T. (02) 736-3211 Hours: 11am—9pm Prices: Around 10,000 won Getting There: Exit 6, Anguk Station, Line 3. Located in the basement of Ssamji-gil in Insa-dong. The southwestern city of Jeonju does the best bibimbap in Korea. Gogung is the next best option.

Bamboo House T. (02) 555-6390 Hours: 11:30am—2:30pm, 5:30pm—10:30pm Prices: 40,000 won and up Getting There: Exit 7, Yeoksam Station, Line 2. Walk 10 minutes in the direction of Gyeonbok Apartments (or take a cab — if you’re eating here, money is clearly not an issue) Pricey; does some of Korea's best barbecue and grill in a multilingual setting. Housed in a stunning Frank Gehryesque building.

Bon Bibimbap T. (02) 736-4288 Hours: 9:30 am—10pm Prices: Under 10,000 won Getting There: Exit 3, Jonggak Station, Line 1. Walk towards Tapgol Park. Hang a left right before the park. Gogung is right there, across from the park, near the entrance to Insa-dong. The flagship store of this chain does an assortment of bibimbap at reasonable prices.

Soups and Stews

Many tasty options include doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew), kimchi jjigae (kimchi stew), sundubu jjigae (tofu stew), seollangtang (milky beef soup) and samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup).

Maple Tree House T. (02) 730-7461 Hours: 11:30—10pm Prices: Around 30,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Walk about 20 minutes along Samcheong-dong road—the restaurant is near Korea Banking Institute. Samgyeopsal with a beautiful wooded garden in Samcheong-dong.

Bibimbap Simple dish of rice mixed with seasoned vegetables and red pepper sauce. Gwyneth Paltrow likes it. Served in a metal/plastic bowl or a stone pot (dolsot bibimbap ).

Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul T. (02) 739-5683 Hours: 10:30am—10pm Prices: 10,000—20,000 won Getting There: Exit 5, Jongno 3ga Station, Line 5. Enter Insa-dong. Face the Seoho Art Gallery at the Insa-dong Intersection and make a left into the alleyway. Hearty North Korean-style doenjang jjigae; traditional ambiance. Particularly popular is the doenjang bibimbap (rice mixed with vegetables and soy bean paste stew).

Tobang T. (02) 735-8156 Hours: 10:30am—10pm Prices: Around 5,000 won Getting There: Exit 6, Anguk Station, Line 3. Enter Insa-dong. Tobang is on the left. Standard Korean fair like kimchi jjigae, dubu jjigae and doenjang jjigae. Also famous for its marinated crab side dish. 34 SEOUL September 2010

Cheolgil Wang Galbisal T. (02) 332-9543 Hours: 24 hours Prices: Around 25,000 won Getting There: Exit 5, Hongik University Station, Line 2. Walk 20 minutes in the direction of the Sanollim Theater—the restaurant is in the alley across from it. Wonderful beef galbi; outstanding bean-paste stew. Very popular.

Bukchon Gamasot Seolleongtang T. (02) 725-7355 Hours: 11:00am—10:30pm Prices: 6,000—10,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Located in alley in front of Jeongdok Public Library. Korean traditional building. Specializes in seolleongtang; also has good manduguk (dumpling soup) and other dishes. Food served on Korean traditional ceramics.

Jiho Hanbang Samgyetang T. (02) 916-3999 Hours: 11am—10pm Prices: 12,000—14,000 won Getting There: Exit 2, Mia Samgeori Station, Line 4 and walk 10 minutes to Dongseong Car Inspection. Samgyetang is a Korean summer specialty. A young chicken is stuffed with rice and boiled in a broth of ginseng, jujube, garlic and ginger.

Myeong-dong Gyoja T. (02) 776-5348 Hours: 10:30am—9:30pm Prices: Under 10,000 won Getting There: Exit 4, Euljiro 4-ga Station, Line 5. Swing a right at the first alley. Quite possibly the best Pyongyang-style naengmyeon outside of North Korea. This legendary eatery also does outstanding meat dishes but is highly expensive. Choice of mul naengmyeon (served in a mild, chilled beef broth) or bibim naengmyeon (served with spicy red pepper sauce). Jaha Son Mandu T. (02) 379-2648 Hours: 11am—9pm Prices: Around 10,000—35,000 won Getting There: Exit 5 of Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3. Take a taxi from there, as it’s a long walk. This place in lovely Buam-dong does a variety of mandu dishes.

Hanjeongsik/Palace Cuisine

Hanjeongsik is a full-course Korean meal featuring rice, soup and a table full of side dishes; palace cuisine is Korean traditional cooking at its most sublime.

Sanchon T. (02) 735-0312 Hours: 11am—10pm Prices: 22,000 won (lunch), 39,600 won (dinner) Getting There: There: Exit 6, Anguk Station, Line 3. Head down Insa-dong and turn left into the alley at Atelier Seoul. Sanchon is at the end of the alley. One of the ten best restaurants in Asia, according to the Asia Wall Street Journal in 2007. Run by a Buddhist monk. Temple cuisine accompanied by Korean traditional music and dancing.

Woo Lae Oak T. (02) 2265-0151 Hours: 11:30am—10pm Prices: 10,000 and up Getting There: Exit 4, Euljiro 4-ga Station, Line 5. Swing a right at the first alley. Quite possibly the best Pyongyang-style naengmyeon outside of North Korea. This legendary eatery also does outstanding meat dishes but is highly expensive. Choice of mul naengmyeon (served in a mild, chilled beef broth) or bibim naengmyeon (served with spicy red pepper sauce).

Dalhangari T. (02) 733-7902 Hours: 11:30am—10pm Prices: Around 25,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Walk along Samcheong-dong road until you get to the Prime Minister’s Residence. Dalhangari is in front of it. Organic Korean home-style hanjeongsik that is both tasty and good for you.

Dumplings and Noodles

Korea does a number of unique noodle dishes, including kalgukgsu (knife-cut wheat noodles in a rich broth) and naengmyeon (chilled buckwheat noodles). Mandu (Korean-style dumplings) are also popular.

Yongsusan T. (02) 732-3019 Hours:noon—3pm/6pm—10pm Prices: 38,000—125,000 won Getting There: Exit 3, Anguk Station, Line 3. Walk towards Changdeokgung Palace, and swing a left. Keep walking till you see Yongsusan on your left. Goryeo-style royal cuisine served in a beautiful setting. Highly recommended.

Goongyeon T. (02) 3673-1104 Hours: noon—9pm Prices: 30,000—92,000 won Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Turn right at Anguk Intersection and walk to Jaedong Elementary School. Swing a left at the intersection across from the school. Run by a master chef who studied old manuscripts to rediscover proper Korean court cuisine.

Seokparang T. (02) 395-0265 Hours: noon—3pm/6pm—10pm Prices: Around 45,000—100,000 won Getting There: Exit 3, Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3. Take Bus 0212, 1020, 1711, 7018, 7022 to Sangmyung University. The restaurant is a Koreanstyle building near there. Housed in a Joseon-era villa, this lovely eatery specializes in Joseon royal cuisine, served on antique antique ceramics.

Baru (Temple Stay Information Center) T. (02) 2031-2081 Hours: 11am—2:30pm, 5:30pm—9pm Prices: 25,000—50,000 won Getting There: Exit 2, Jonggak Station, Line 1. Walk 70m to Jogyesa Temple. The Temple Stay Information Center is across the street. On the fifth floor of the Temple Stay Information Center. Serves Buddhist temple cuisine.

Quick Korean Eats Don’t have time for a full meal? There are plenty of places to score low priced, quickly-served food like gimbap (rice rolls), ramyeon (instant noodles) and tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes).

Gimbap Cheonguk Hours: 24 hours Prices: Under 5,000 won A chain with shops almost everywhere, this place serves good, cheap Korean fair, including gimbap , and noodle dishes.

Vegetarian

Korea probably could not in fairness be called a paradise for vegetarians, but vegetarian food can be scored if you know where to look.

Sindang Tteokbokki Alley Hours: 24 hours Prices: 10,000—20,000 won Alleyway near Sindang Station lined with restaurants doing tteokbokki, one of Seoul’s signature dishes. Rice cakes pan-fried with a spicy red pepper sauce, vegetables, dumplings and noodles: cheap, filling and tasty.

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special report ii

SEEING RED IN MUNGYEONG

Formerly wild omija berry becomes a big earner Written by Ben Jackson | Photographs by Ryu Seunghoo

e-elected as mayor of the southeastern city of Mungyeong in June this year, Shin Hyun-kook is continuing his drive to boost his local economy through a combination of agriculture and technology. Spearheading Mungyeong’s high value-added agriculture strategy are two fruits: the apple and the omija berry. While the apple has long been a favorite orchard fruit, omija (Schisandra chinensis ) existed in Korea primarily as a wild berry.

Big potential All this changed in 1993, when Mungyeong first experimented with transplanting and cultivating omija . The omija vines were planted on unused mountain land and on farms with elderly p e r s o n n e l ; t e n y e a r s l a t e r, M u n g y e o n g designated a special omija industrial zone, producing 45% of Korea’s entire omija crop. SEOUL recently met Shin at Mungyeong City Hall to ask more about the city ’s fruity revolution. “We decided to promote omija as a regional product and concentrate on its cultivation,” said Shin. “We judged it to be a crop with potential for generating not just primary agricultural income, but a combination of primary, s e c o n d a r y, a n d t e r t i a r y. We h a v e b e e n concentrating on refining omija into other products and researching further uses for it. The fact that omija cultivation is limited to Northeast Asian countries like Korea, China and Russia means there is plenty of potential to export it globally.”

Special omija zone “In June 2006, we designated a 93 hectare special omija cultivation zone in the Dongnomyeon area of Mungyeong in order to raise the city’s status as the center of the Korean omija industry and to stimulate the regional economy,” said Shin. “The omija project period began in 2005 and ends at the end of this year. We expect it to bring returns of 50 billion won and more than 400 jobs from an initial investment of 9.6 billion won.” Shin explained the environmentally friendly farming methods that also add special meaning to Mungyeong’s omija industry. “In contrast to conventional farming methods,” he noted, “our omija are grown using 100% eco-friendly techniques, using green soil improving agents, organic fertilizer, natural predators, and biological preparations. Because omija are used as they are, fresh or dried, consumers demand a higher degree of product safety. Our eco-friendly omija farming has won us plenty of awards, including the grand prize as Korea’s 36 SEOUL September 2010

leading eco-friendly agriculture product brand for three consecutive years from 2007 onward.”

Pick your own—omija tourism Shin highlighted the potential of omija to increase income through tourism as well as direct sales. “Farm experience tourism produces high value-added and can create lots of employment,” he explained. “We’ve been running an omija festival for the last five years. It attracts around 100,000 visitors annually and generates around 2 billion won in sales. In 2006, we opened an omija experience village in the special production zone, which generates 600 million won in non-farm income every year through tourism. We’re also creating a Mungyeong omija wine valley to bring in extra revenue.” Shin majored in food processing. “I have always been convinced that processing agricultural products is like a second agriculture,” he said. “In Mungyeong, we set up a processing support center to minimize the risk for people wanting to process agricultural goods. It provides a one-stop service with support from product development and technology transfer to prototype product and sales, plus management and provision of start-up capital. So far, we’ve developed 48 omija processing plants. We buy directly 50% of omija produced, providing a stable base for farmers and bringing in sales of more than 60 billion won per year.”

Health benefits Mungyeong’s success in taking a wild-growing berry and developing a large-scale processed product market has parallels with the cranberry, a wild berry collected from the wild by Native Americans until it was first cultivated by American Revolutionary War veteran Henry Hall in Cape Cod around 1816. It is now a major crop in North America and northern Europe, valued for various health properties. Research into the health benefits of omija is gradually expanding, with results indicating that the berry has very promising prospects. “We’ve signed MOUs for research and product development with Kwang Dong Pharmaceutical and YD Life Science Company,” said Shin. “Clinical trials are showing that omija has an effect on arthritis. Other research results are emerging gradually, too.” It looks as though even greater value-added is on the way for the red berry growing on vines around Mungyeong. The next question is: what other Korean wild plants have potential to be developed with the same success?

MUNGYEONG OMiJA FESTiVAL September 10—12. T. (054) 554-7555

GETTiNG THERE To Mungyeong: Buses to Mungyeong (Jeomchon) depart from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal. The trip takes about two hours. To Omija Experience village (from Mungyeong): From Jeomchon’s city bus terminal, take a bus bound for Dongno-myeon and get off at Dongno-myeon Sojaeji. Buses depart hourly, and the trip takes about 40 minutes.

travel & culture SEOUL 37

Seoul personalities

DESIGNED BY NATURE Music producer Kim Young-il takes a unique approach to music recording and Korean sound design Written by Ben Jackson | Photographs courtesy of AkdangEban

im Young-il does a wonderful Tarzan impression. It caught SEOUL’s attention when delivered last spring while Kim was speaking about his role as curator of the soundrelated exhibition at the upcoming Gwangju Design Biennale. Kim went on to expound on the ubiquity and importance of sound design and its particular relevance to Korea and Korean traditional music. More than a year later, SEOUL caught up with Kim at the office of his unique music production company, AkdangEban, to talk about Korean sound and design in the 21st century.

Music where it belongs AkdangEban is based in the pleasant hillside neighborhood of Seongbuk-dong (see Maps & Guides, p. 17). Kim’s recording studio, however, stretches from the Yellow Sea to the East Sea and from the Jeju Strait to the Demilitarized Zone: the whole of South Korea. “I used to try and bring artists to a recording studio in Seoul,” he says. “Once, I invited an old lady by the name of Chae Jeong-nye from Jindo, an island off the far southwest coast of Korea, to record a unique indigenous rite called the ssitgim-gut . Jindo is home to many fishermen, so it’s not uncommon for bodies of drowned people to be lost forever at sea. The ssitgim-gut is a ceremony to cleanse the soul of somebody who has died in this way. When we had set up the recording studio and brought in all the musicians, they started playing. After 20 minutes, Chae stopped and said that she couldn’t do it, that her throat had seized up. I talked it through with her and she suggested we come down to Jindo, where she would perform the rite at a small hermitage (amja ) behind a temple. Later on, we went down there, and sure enough, she performed the rite all day long, sustained only by occasional mouthfuls of rice from a small bowl. “I learned a lot from that experience,” says Kim. “About how I had been wrong to expect

38 SEOUL September 2010

people to come all the way to Seoul just so that I could press the ‘record’ button for them in a studio. I learned that Korean music is about open space and environment, and that you can’t take a performer from the space they perform in and shut them between the four walls of a recording studio.”

Songlines This realization was a turning point for Kim, who now spends much of his time traveling around Korea and recording traditional music. “The countryside is full of people doing their own things, in their own style,” he says. “A lot of them will never come up to Seoul.” One of Kim’s current projects involves recording some 900 local versions of “Arirang” from the remote Mitan area in the mountains of Gangwon-do. “Arirang” is perhaps Korea’s most famous folk song and is the subject of a large number of regional and thematic variations. “Jeongseon, a county across the river from Mitan, has spent decades and lots of money researching and developing its native Arirang songs,” says Kim. “It has several hundred Arirangs of its own, but when I started researching nearby Mitan, I found that this small area was home to even more indigenous Arirangs—around 900. I called a friend of mine who designed the Jiri-san Dullegil (a rural walking trail running around the foot of Mt. Jirisan in southwestern Korea) and suggested to him that we design a Mitan walking route that takes in all the places that feature in the lyrics of the Mitan Arirangs. We’re currently working on the project in collaboration with the county authorities. As far as I know, it will be the first walking trail or road based on song.”

Pure Recording Kim’s realization that Korean music did not belong in a recording studio or within the confines of a Western-style concert hall also

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Seoul personalities

More Info AkdangEban’s CDs can be bought at the Hot Tracks store in Kyobo Book Center (Gwanghwamun or Gangnam), as well as online. Gwangju Design Biennale (2009, 2011, etc.) alternates with Gwangju [Art] Biennale (Sep 3— Nov 7 this year). Website: http://gb.or.kr

40 SEOUL September 2010

prompted him to begin producing AkdangEban’s “Garak” (家樂; “home music”) series of traditional music performances in traditional hanok buildings. These single-story structures, built principally from wood, earth, and paper, have series of wooden lattice and paper panels instead of walls, which can be folded out and up, under the eaves, to eliminate the boundary between inside and outside. “Every hanok has its own voice,” says Kim. “And they provide the best setting for Korean traditional music, where the audience is supposed to interact with the performers by interjecting chuimsae —words of encouragement.” Now in its fourth year, the Garak series has seen traditional musicians from various parts of the country performing in local historic hanok and palaces. Kim puts on a CD of a gayageum recital (Korean traditional 12-stringed zither) recorded on a September evening in a pavilion in Soswaewon, one of Korea’s most famous gardens. Gwangju-based musician Chu Jeonghyun plucks the thick silk strings of the gayageum to a constant accompaniment by insects in the trees surrounding the open-sided pavilion. Unadorned and unfiltered, the recording conveys the physicality of the instrument and its player, and the natural context in which the performance takes place. The sound is fresh, real, and captivating. “While we set up the equipment, everything was quiet,” says Kim. “In the evening, the insects started chirping—I hadn’t been expecting it. But then I realized that all the ingredients and materials that make Korean music are natural. Not only insects, birds, the wind in the trees,

and the water in the stream, but all the parts of the instruments. There is no metal. Even the range of the instruments falls within that of the human voice: nothing higher, nothing lower.” AkdangEban has created two logos that reflect the ethos of such performances and recordings: “Music from Hanok” and “Pure Recording.” They are found on many of the label’s CDs, which have also recently become the first in Korea to use the high-resolution SACD (Super Audio CD) format. He puts on another CD, this time of the same gayageum piece but played by a different musician, in a different hanok , early one spring morning. This time, birds take the place of insects as the chatty audience members in the background.

Sound and Design Kim is unequivocal when it comes to the importance of sound design. “You can’t see it, but it’s definitely there,” he says. “Sound design is all around us. The ring tones and button sounds on our mobile phones, the roar of a Harley Davidson, the ‘ding dong’ of an elevator. Even a conductor conducting an orchestra through Beethoven is designing sound. We have a very close relationship with sound in our lives. AkdangEban’s CDs are capturing Korea’s own sound design. “The closer I get to nature, the more I realize that that’s all we need. The mentality of listening to and appreciating what’s there. People ask me how I planned the Pure Recordings. I tell them, ‘I didn’t. The only plan was to not have a plan.’ That is what Korean sound design is all about.”

medical tourism ii

DR. LEE’S DENTAL CLINIC The dentists that treat you like a member of their own family

In a tower next to busy Gangnam Station is Dr. Lee’s Dental Clinic, a practice with more than 35 years of history and experience. Founded by Dr. Lee in 1974, the clinic is now run by his son, Lee Kwang-won. While Dr. Lee Senior specializes in orthodontics, his son is a specialist in periodontology, giving the clinic a wide range of specialties.

world, says Lee, “teeth are pretty much the same worldwide.” When it comes to Korean food, however, there are certain pitfalls that need to be avoided. “Tooth fractures are a relatively common problem here,” says Lee. “Korean food has lots of hard bits, such as bones in meat or even hard radish in kimchi.”

No communication barrier

Long-term care

“I trained for five years in Indiana, in the U.S.A,” says Dr. Lee Jnr, a fluent speaker of English. “I also spent a couple of months in Wimbledon, London, a long time ago.” Lee regularly treats foreign patients, due to the high number of hagwon (private schools) and native speaker English teachers in the affluent Gangnam area. Although hair and skin vary widely among people from various parts of the

When it comes to expatriate dental care, Dr. Lee’s Dental Clinic is a place you might want to check out. The combination of fluent English communication, unusually long specialist experience and an ethos that sees both Dr. Lees endeavoring to treat patients with as much care as they would members of their own family, makes this a good place to entrust with the fate of your teeth.

Dr.Lee’s Dental Clinic Where beautiful smiles are made Expert know-how and treatment technique based on years of experience Opening Hours Mon-Fri 9:30am~6:00pm Sat 9:30am~3:00pm Closed on holidays and Sundays To Hannam Bridge

To Seoul Nat’l. Univ. of Education Station

Yeoksam Station Gangnam Station

Dr.Lee’s Dental Clinic 4th Fl, Mijin Plaza Buiding Gangnam Station, Line 2, Exit 1 (Free parking is available)

To Yangjae Station

Dr. Kwangwon Lee

Dr. Lee’s Dental Clinic, 4th ﬂ. Mijin Plaza Building, Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu

02-553-2828, 02-3469-1133

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travel & culture SEOUL 41

hotel news NEW HANOK GUEST HOUSE Another welcome addition to Bukchon’s growing collection of guest houses in traditional wooden hanok buildings. Several rooms arranged around a beautiful courtyard. Spacious singles start from 45,000 won per night. The guest house is twinned with Bongsan House, another hanok around a corner in the same neighborhood, where master

/ Bongsan Guest House, Bukchon craftswoman Nah Seoung-sook offers lessons in Korean traditional lacquerwork. Korean or Western breakfast available. Highly recommended for a stay in Seoul. See www.bongsanhouse.com, or call 0103592-6261 or 010-3165-6263 and ask for Cho or An.

RELIABLE LOW-PRICE ACCOMMODATION GUIDES “Innostel” is a contraction of “innovative” and “hostel” and provides information on cheap but clean and reliable accommodation. Give it a visit if you’re paying for your own lodging.... “Benikea,” a contraction of “best night in Korea” is a brand name created to select and

provide infor mation on high-quality hotel accommodation at mid-low prices throughout Korea. It also features some Seoul hotels. See http://innostel.visitseoul.net/en or www.benikea.co.kr.

THE FINAL SIZZLES OF SUMMER The W’s fourth floor SkyDeck is the ideal place to enjoy a “W Sizzle” barbecue buffet in the early autumn breeze with unlimited wine, beer, charcoal barbecue, and dessert. On the grill are fresh salmon, sea bass, king prawns, various premium cuts of beef, Moroccan spicy lamb ribs, and sausages, accompanied by smoked duck breast salad, Caesar salad with chicken and

/ Innostel and Benikea

/ W Seoul-Walkerhill, Mt. Achasan

cheese, and crab salad with mango and cucumber. When: Every Fri and Sat, Sep 3—18 How Much: 90,000 won, 45,000 won for young children (excl tax and service) Contact: (02) 2022-0111 or kitchen.wseoul@whotels.com

CHUSEOK GETAWAY PACKAGES • Park Hyatt, Daechi-dong

• Imperial Palace, Gangnam

One night in a guestroom, breakfast for two, special gifts from Acqua di Parma, and discounts on a Three-Course Dinner Set at Cornerstone or the Makgeolli Set at The Lounge or at The Timber House. Guests also have free access to the fitness studio, swimming pool, and sauna located on the top floors of the hotel. When: Sep 17—26 How much: 290,000 won (incl service, excl tax) Contact: (02) 2016-1100 or http://seoul.park.hyatt.com.

Discounts on multiple-night stays during the Chuseok period. Chuseok package also includes breakfast for two at Cafe Amiga, a five-piece traveler’s kit from Bulgari, and free access to the fitness center and indoor swimming pool. When: Sep 17—26 How much: 180,000 won (345,000 won for two nights, 495,000 won for three nights; excl tax and service) Contact: (02) 3440-8010~3 or www.imperialpalace.co.kr

MEXICAN FIESTA & MICHELIN CHEF A t O r a n g e r i e , M i l l e n n i u m S e o u l H i l t o n ’s international buffet restaurant, Chef Pineiro will introduce authentic Mexican high cuisine including tamales, tacos, and enchiladas to Seoulites. How much: lunch buffet 52,000/31,200 won adults/children 12 and under; dinner buffet 57,000/34,200 won adults/children 12 and under Contact: (02) 317-3143

42 SEOUL September 2010

/ Millennium Seoul Hilton, Mt. Namsan

At Il Ponte, the hotel’s Italian restaurant, Italian Michelin Star Chef Carlo Cracco and awardwinning Italian pastry chef Luigi Biasetto will join forces to create a stunning epicurean evening as part of the annual Seoul Gourmet 2010 festival. When: Sep 27 How much: TBC Contact: (02) 317-3270

RITZ BAR’S EOM DO-HWAN WINS TOP PRIZE After a yearlong global challenge that saw 9,000 bartenders from around the globe shake, stir, and pour their way through national heats, just 24 of the most talented and inspirational bartenders remained to go head to head over four days of WORLD CLASS challenges in July. Eom Do-hwan from The Ritz Bar at The RitzCarlton Seoul emerged victorious, winning the

/ Ritz-Carlton, Yeoksam-dong

WORLD CLASS ‘Architecture’ Challenge— Market. This is a test of skill in identifying and using fresh market produce to create interesting cocktail combinations. Head to the Ritz-Carlton if you fancy a taste of his sublime skills at the bar. Contact: (02) 3451-8235 or www.weareworldclass.com

HAPPY 10TH BIRTHDAY TO JW MARRIOTT SEOUL Three big promotions are in progress to celebrate JW Marriott Seoul’s 10th anniversary: those who upload an image of a griffin (the hotel’s symbol) onto its website (see below; image cannot be the hotel’s logo itself) can register to win special gifts in a lucky draw; special dinner menus (100,000 won, excl tax and service) at JW’s Grill (steak and

/ Banpo-dong

seafood), Olivio (Italian), Mikado (Japanese), and Man Ho (Chinese) entitle each diner to a free bottle of wine; and a special room package (249,000 won Fri, Sat & Sun, excl tax and service) also brings various benefits. When: Until Sep 30 (room package until Nov 30) Contact: (02) 6282-6120 or www.jw-marriott.co.kr

W style

NEW LUNCH MENU AT NAMU Photographs courtesy of W Seoul

Following its recent reopening after a stunning makeover, W’s contemporary Japanese restaurant Namu presents a new lunch menu that will make you wish you didn’t have to go back to work in the afternoon.

Wento W’s own version of the classic Japanese bento lunchbox brings together the best tastes available at Namu in one mind-blowing box. The Wento (45,000 won, excl tax and service) features salad; seasonal sashimi; tempura; teppanyaki Wagyu beef; a choice of broiled eel and rice, seafood udon , or rice with chopped sashimi and sushi as the main meal; dessert; and a soft drink.

Ice Namu’s existing “Ice” section has become the center of the restaurant, offering a range of sushi and sashimi in line with the latest sushi bar dining trends. Namu’s Chef Takashima will combine his precise Japanese expertise with many years of experience living in Korea to open new horizons in sushi and sashimi taste. Chef Takashima recommends the Ohiru Sushi lunch set (55,000 won, excl tax and service), which comes with a selection of cuts from ten of the freshest fish of the day, a choice of seafood udon or soba , and dessert. In the words of Chef Takashima, the mind behind Namu’s latest display of food inspiration: “W is totally different from other deluxe hotels. While it retains the class and elegance found only among deluxe hotels, its level of quality and ability to read trends place it clearly in a distinct class of its own.” If you have a lunch date you want to properly impress, make sure you head for Namu this September. More info T. (02) 2022-0222 Website: www.wseoul.com

travel & culture SEOUL 45

09 EVENT Calendar SUN

MON

TUE

WED

1 - KFCC 5th Anniversary Festival: 'Thank-you' (The Korea Foundation Cultural Center) thru 30

- Hwang Jin-yi (NCKTPA) thru 16

- Ensemble DITTO Recital 2010---Korea-China-Japan Culture Shuttle Concert (Seoul Arts Center) - The ChunCheon 2010 World Leisure Congress and Leisure Games (Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do)

7 - The World Festival of National Theaters (National Theater of Korea) thru Oct 31

8 - Formula One, The Great Design Race (Seoul Arts Center) thru Oct 31

Painters Who Had to Leave Their Hometowns

- Seoul Grand Sale 2010 (Throughout the entire city)

- The History of Korean Poster Design for 100 Years (Dongdaemun History & Culture Park)

The History of Korean Poster Design for 100 Years

19 - Powerhouse (Gangnam Space, Gallery Hyundai)

21 *Chuseok (public holiday)

*Chuseok (public holiday) 22

- Romeo & Juliet (Seoul Namsan Gukakdang) thru Oct 24

Formula One, The Great Design Race

- From Turner to Impressionists: The collection of British Landscape Paintings (Seoul Arts Center)

- Painters Who Had to Leave Their Hometowns (Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si)

46 SEOUL September 2010

28 - Rose Jang---Musical-Pop Opera Concert (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts)

29 - 2010 Chungju World Martial Arts Festival (Chungju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do) thru Oct 3

THU

FRI

SAT

- 1st Yeo Woo Rak Festival (National Theater of Korea) thru 11 - 4th CHIFFS (Theaters of Jung-gu District)

9 - Korea International Art Fair (COEX) thru 13

- Gwangju Biennale 2010 (Gwangju) thru Nov 7

For detailed info on the events, go to “Goings On Around Town.” Brown color letters indicate closing date of event. -Ed

- 2010 Seoul Drum Festival (Seoul Forest) thru 30

- The King is the King (Sejong Center for the Performing Arts) thru 19

Performances

- 2010 Mungyeong Omija Festival (Mungyeong-si, Gyeongsangbukdo) thru 12

- Taekkyeon Battle (Insa-dong Culture Plaza)

- London Philharmonic Orchestra Korea Tour (Seoul Arts Center)

- Richard O'Brien's ‘Rocky Horror Show’ (COEX) thru Oct 10 - The Palace (Gung), the Musical (Theater Yong) thru Oct 24 - Seopyeonje, the Musical (Dongsoong Art Center) thru Nov 7

Exhibitions

- Hallyu Dream Festival (Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do) thru 12

Long Running Performances & Exhibitions

- Seoul Design Fair 2010 (Jamsil Sports Complex and four design clusters) thru Oct 7

- Lil Jon---Live in Seoul (Olympic Park)

- Andong Maskdance Festival 2010 (Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do) thru Oct 3

- Korea National Ballet---Raymonda (Seoul Arts Center) thru 30

- Where Time and Light Remain---Photographic Images of World Heritage Sites In Korea (National Museum of Korea) thru Oct 31

- The 6th Seoul WoW Book Festival (Hongdae Parking Lot Alley) thru 24

Romeo & Juliet

*Chuseok (public holiday)

30 - SIDance 2010 (Major theaters in Seoul) thru Oct 20

London Philharmonic Orchestra Korea Tour

travel & culture SEOUL 47

Goings on on Around Around Town Town

Upcoming Events

PREVIEW The World Festival of National Theaters

Back for the fourth time, this festival of some of the world’s leading performance venues features national theaters from no less than nine countries, including Korea. While previous festivals have charmed audiences with classic theater pieces, this year’s event has a distinctly more contemporary flavor. Look forward to Robert Wilson’s production of Beckett's “Krapp’s Last Tape,” along with the Hungarian National Theatre’s post-modern deconstruction and reconstruction of “Othello,” the Slovak Chamber Theater’s “Tango” and more.

Richard O'Brien's ‘Rocky Horror Show’ (Original Broadway Cast)

Anyone who grew up in England in the late 1980s will known Richard O’Brien as the bald presenter who pranced around the set of “Crystal Maze” watching hapless contestants messing up various challenges. Well, it turns out he actually wrote and starred in the “Rocky Horror Show” musical and then starred in its 1975 film adaptation, the “Rocky Horror Picture Show.” Anyway, the musical’s coming to Korea.

As an internationally renowned festival representing the capital city of South Korea, Seoul Drum Festival has embarked on its 12th anniversary this year since its initial opening in 1999. The festival provides a venue for communicating percussive cultural-art to citizens, as well as offering them a wide range of opportunities for hands-on experience.

p.59 p.60

p.59

Formula One, The Great Design Race

An exhibition devoted to the glorious, lethal, thrilling, sometimes boring, high-octane phenomenon of the Formula 1 Grand Prix, which makes its debut in Korea next month. A collection of videos, images and other records illustrate the history of Formula 1. The stars of the show are some actual McLaren and Williams Formula 1 cars, engines, seats and other items that rarely go on display.

p.63 48 SEOUL September 2010

2010 Seoul Drum Festival

1st Yeo Woo Rak Festival

A chance to see some of the most successful Korean traditional musicians of our times gathered at one event. Top names include Gong Myoung, Noreum Machi, Sonagi Project and Dulsori— groups whose popularity has burst beyond the borders of Korea and earns them regular invitations to music festivals worldwide.

p.61

Hallyu Dream Festival

As the capital of the Silla Kingdom (57BC—935AD), the southeastern city of Gyeongju is known first and foremost as a historical treasure trove of tombs, statues, carvings and more. This month, however, it plays host to a festival of hallyu (“Korean Wave”) stars, the beautiful faces that have brought Korean music, TV drama and film a string of overseas hits in recent years. If you’re into hallyu, you might like this.

p.64

Plenty going on at the National Museum of Korea

To celebrate the fifth anniversary of its relocation to Yongsan, the museum is holding an exhibition of photographs of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Korea (there are 10). While you’re there, check out the exhibitions on the “four gods” motif in Goguryeo tomb murals and the golden crown and girdle discovered in a Silla tumulus in Gyeongju in 1973.

4th Chungmuro International Film Festival in Seoul (CHIFFS)

Chungmuro, an area of Seoul near the bustling shopping district of Myeong-dong, is Korea’s Hollywood or Bollywood, the historical and spiritual heart of film industry that kept Korean audiences entertained through years of dictatorship and austerity and is now captivating viewers worldwide. This year’s festival, based on a theme of “Discovery, Restoration, Creation,” will introduce over 220 films from around the world at theaters in Chungmuro, Myeong-dong and other areas.

p.52 p.65

Korea National Ballet—Raymonda

To mark the 20th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between the Republic of Korea and the Russian Federation, soloistes from Russia’s Bolshoi Ballet will perform Yuri Grigorovich’s version of the classic “Raymonda” with the Korean National Ballet in Seoul. Korean National Ballet soloists, meanwhile, will travel to Moscow and perform “Romeo and Juliet” with dancers from the Bolshoi.

The 6th Seoul WoW Book Festival

Mt. Wausan means “cow lying down mountain.” The “Wau” part is pronounced “wow,” which is where this book festival, which takes place in the Hongdae area on the flank of Mt. Wausan, gets its name. The area is home to thousands of large and small publishing companies, as well as being a hotbed of live music, clubs, art, dancing and more. This festival aims to stimulate the five senses with a book fair and various performances, plays, concerts and exhibitions.

Romeo & Juliet

Shakespeare comes to Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater! The English bard’s classic tale of family feuding and star-crossed love is thus reinterpreted in the guises of Korean traditional music, song and dance. Since its 1995 debut, Mokhwa Repertory Company’s version of Romeo and Juliet has charmed audiences in Korea, the U.K, Germany, Japan and China. This performance is given with English subtitles.

p.61

p.54 p.65

Hwang Jin-yi

Hwang Jin-yi is one of the most important figures in Korean literature, admired for her exquisite poetic compositions. She was a famous gisaeng (courtesan), from the city of Kaesong (now in North Korea) during the Joseon period. This production from the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts recreates the love affairs that captivated Hwang Jin-yi and prompted some of her best poems.

p.61

2010 Chungju World Martial Arts Festival

Chungju, located at the center of the Korean peninsula, was a vibrant hub of regional culture and is now becoming a martial arts Mecca thanks to its hosting of the World Martial Arts Festival. The festival centers on the ancient Korean martial art of taekkyeon, a registered intangible cultural heritage of Korea that has more fluent movements than the modern and better internationally known martial art, taekwondo. But it’s not just about Korean martial arts: 51 teams from 29 countries will be turning up in Chungju to take part.

London Philharmonic Orchestra Korea Tour

Head to Sejong Center for the Performing Arts to see one of the world’s great orchestras, the London Philharmonic, in action. Soloists will include classical music stars Richard Yongjae O’Neill and Stefan Pi Jackiw, and Sarah Chang, hailed by some as the best violinist in the world today. Look forward to a program of popular classics such as Dvorak’s Symphony No. 8 and Tchaikovsky’s Symphony no. 5.

p.65 p.53 travel & culture SEOUL 49

Goings on Around Town

Museums Celestial Rendezvous

Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Donated Relic Exhibition Room (1st fl.), Seoul Museum of History Thru Sep 5

Free (02) 2266-7118 Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station, Lines 2, 4 & 5, Exits 1 and 2.

Jongno Elegy Seoul Museum of History Thru Oct 30 Adults (ages 20—64): 700 won, Others: Free (02) 724-0524 Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 4. Walk 300m.

Adults: 3,000 won, Students: 2,000 won (02) 547-9177 Apgujeong Station, Line 3, Exit 2. Walk 5 minutes along Segwang Street behind CGV theater.

Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Free (02) 3277-3152 Ewha Womans Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 2. Walk straight and pass the school gate. The museum is located on your left.

Ancient Culture of Uzbekistan National Museum of Korea Thru Sep 26 50 SEOUL September 2010

Mystery of the Shark

Space*C, Coreana Art & Culture Complex Thru Oct 30

National Museum of Korea Sep 7—Oct 31

Ewha Womans University Museum Thru Sep 18

Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Adults: 4,000 won, Students: 2,000 won (02) 541-3523~5 Gangnam-gu Office Station, Line 7, Exit 3. Turn around and go left at the corner. Walk straight and cross the road at Hak-dong Intersection. Go left and walk straight. The center is located on your right.

Joseon, Land of Hats

The Golden Kingdom of Silla—Treasures from Korean Royal Tombs

The 10th Kim Okgill Memorial Lecture Special Exhibition of the 124th Anniversary of Ewha Womans Univ.

National Museum of Korea Thru Feb 13, 2011

Horim Museum Sinsa, Horim Art Center Thru Nov 28

Modern Design Museum Thru Sep 7

Event Hall, Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Thru Sep 13

Gold Crown of Cheonmachong Tomb

Buncheong Ware Ritual Vessels

A Century of Korean Brands: From Logos to Brand Identity

The History of Korean Poster Design for 100 Years

National Museum of Korea Thru Nov 14 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Adults (ages 20—64): 700 won, Others: Free (02) 724-0114 Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 4. Walk 300m.

3,000 won 070-7010-4346~7 (070-7010-4351 on Sundays) Sinchon Station, Line 2, Exit 8. Transfer to maeul bus No. 13 and get off at Wau Park.

White Porcelain Jars— Bearing the In (仁) and Ye (禮) of the Joseon Era

Where Time and Light Remain—Photographic Images of World Heritage Sites in Korea National Museum of Korea Thru Oct 31 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Seodaemun Museum of Natural History Thru Feb 27, 2011

Four Gods National Museum of Korea Thru Nov 28 Free (02) 2077-9000 Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m towards Yongsan Family Park.

Kokdu Move Kokdu Museum Thru Nov 30 Adults: 5,000 won, Children: 3,000 won (02) 766-3315 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 1. Turn right along CONUS. Walk 100m toward the hill on your right. Dongsoong Art Center is located on your left. The museum is on the 2nd floor.

Special Korean War 60th Anniversary Exhibition War Memorial of Korea Thru Nov 30 Adults: 5,000 won, Youths: 3,000 won, Children: 2,000 won (02) 709-3139 Walk three minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 6, Exits 11 & 12, or five minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Adults: 3,000 won, Youths (ages 13—18): 2,000 won, Children (ages 6—12): 1,000 won, Others: Free (02) 330-8899 At Sinchon Station, Line 2, Exit 1 (in the direction of Donggyo-dong), transfer to bus No. 110 or 7720. At Exit 3 (in front of Shinchon Rotary), transfer to green bus No. 03. At Hongje Station, Line 3, Exit 3 (in the direction of Muakjae), transfer to bus No. 7738 or 7739.

Grossology—The (Impolite) Science of the Human Body War Memorial of Korea Open Run 12,000 won (02) 541-3174 Walk three minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 6, Exits 11 & 12, or five minutes from Samgakji Station, Line 4, Exit 1.

Classical Music Seoul Arts Center Young Artist Opera Festival Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Sep 1—19 VIP: 50,000 won, R: 40,000 won,

S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won (02) 580-1300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Great Artist Series Kumho Art Hall Sep 2, 9, 16, 8pm R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won (02) 6303-7700 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk 200m in the direction of Seodaemun.

Junge Münchner Philharmonie— World Peace Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Sep 3, 8pm VIP: 150,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 2277-6516 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Ensemble DITTO Recital 2010—Korea-ChinaJapan Culture Shuttle Concert

Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Sep 5, 2:30pm

R: 50,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won (02) 3700-6334 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

R: 80,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 318-4301 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

Ensemble TIMF— Mix & Match Hoam Art Hall Sep 10, 8pm 30,000 won (02) 751-9607~10 City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9. Walk 5 minutes. The hall is located inside of the Joongang Ilbo bldg.

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Sep 10, 8pm / Sep 16, 8pm

Lee Kyung-sook— Mozart Piano Sonata Cycle

While most visits to Korea by foreign opera companies involve just a handful of soloists, the Novosibirsk State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre broke the mold last year by dispatching more than 120 artists for a performance of “Carmen,” bringing standing ovations from Korean audiences. Now the Siberian artistic juggernaut is back with Borodin’s opera “Prince Igor,” a massive project that brings over 250 soloists, chorus members, ballet dancers, musicians, and conductors to Korea. “Prince Igor” is based on the East Slavic epic “The Lay of Igor's Host,” which recounts the campaign of Russian prince Igor Svyatoslavich against the invading Polovtsian tribes in 1185. Completed after Borodin’s death in 1887 by fellow composers Rimsky-Korsakov and Glazunov, it was first performed in St. Petersburg in 1890.

R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won 1577-5266 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

London Philharmonic Orchestra Korea Tour Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Sep 16, 7:30pm

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Sep 18, 5pm

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct 2, 8pm

S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won (For four days—S: 100,000 won, A: 60,000 won) (02) 751-9607~10 City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9. Walk 5 minutes. The hall is located inside of the Joongang Ilbo bldg.

Seoul Youth Orchestra— Glazunov Symphony No. 4

Oct 7—8, 7:30pm / Oct 9, 5pm / Oct 10, 4pm

Yuhki Kuramoto— Piano Poem

Hoam Art Hall Sep 14, 15, 17, 8pm / Sep 18, 5pm

R: 200,000 won, S; 160,000 won, A; 120,000 won, B: 60,000 won, C: 40,000 won (02) 751-9607 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Russia Novosibirsk State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre—Prince Igor Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center

Exit 7. Walk 200m in the direction of Seodaemun.

R: 25,000 won, S: 20,000 won, A: 10,000 won, Gallery Seat: 5,000 won (02) 399-1114~7 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Rose Jang—Musical-Pop Opera Concert Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Sep 28, 7:30pm VVIP: 150,000 won, VIP: 110,000 won, R: 80,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 20,000 won (02) 585-5587 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Munus Ensemble— Latin & Tango Sejong M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Oct 8, 8pm R: 66,000 won, S: 55,000 won, A: 44,000 won (02) 720-3933 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Dance Modern Dance: Sungsoo Ahn Pickup Group— Rose & Bolero Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Sep 3, 8pm / Sep 4, 7pm 20,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Hiroko Nakamura— Piano Virtuoso Series 2 Kumho Art Hall Sep 30, 8pm R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won (02) 6303-7700 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5,

travel & culture SEOUL 51

Goings on Around Town Flamenco Dance Musical: Sangre Flamenca of Rojas & Rodriguez Universal Art Center Sep 8—12 VIP: 150,000 won, R: 120,000 won, S: 77,000 won, A: 55,000 won (02) 517-0394, www.superflamenco.com Tickets: http://ticket.interpark. com/global Achasan Station, Line 5, Exit 4. Walk 3 minutes.

Sleeping Beauty—Sep 25, 3pm, 7pm / Swan Lake—Sep 26, 3pm, 7pm VIP: 150,000 won, R: 120,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 60,000 won, B: 40,000 won (02) 737-6614 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

31th Seoul Dance Festival Arko Arts Theater

Sep 29—Oct 19, 7:30pm 20,000 won (02) 744-8066 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Turn left and pass by Marronnier Park. The theater is located on your left.

13th Seoul International Dance Festival (SIDance 2010) Seoul Arts Center, Hoam Art Hall, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, Sogang University Mary Hall, and other venues Sep 30—Oct 20

Open Air Modern Ballet Festival: Seoul Ballet Theatre—Ballet in a Palace

Admission depends on program (02) 3216-1185, www.sidance.org

Musicals The Phantom of the Opera Charlotte Theater Thru Sep 11, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 8pm (Sat) / 2pm, 7pm (Sun & holidays, no performances on Mondays) Peak—VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A; 50,000 won, B: 40,000 won Regular—VIP: 120,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 70,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 40,000 won (02) 501-7888 Jamsil Station, Lines 2 & 8, Exit 3. Walk straight beside Lotte Dept. Store and cross the road. Walk straight and turn right.

Pimatgol Love Song Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Sep 4—14, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Sep 6) / 7pm (Sep 4) / 2pm (Sep 12)

Unhyeongung Palace Sep 10—11, 8pm Free (02) 3442-2637 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 4. Walk 50m.

The King is the King (English subtitles available) Sejong M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Sep 3—19, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun) / 5pm, 8pm (Sep 17) R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won Tickets: http://ticket.interpark.com/global (02) 399-1135 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts 52 SEOUL September 2010

Seongnam Arts Center, Seongnam-si Sep 1—19, 11:30am (Tue— Wed) / 8pm (Thu—Fri) / 3pm, 7:30pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun) VIP: 90,000 won, R: 80,000 won, OP: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won 1544-6399 Imae Station, Bundang Line, Exit 1.

Welcome to My World Myeong-dong Haechi Hall (M-Plaza, 5th fl.) Thru Sep 19, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 6:30pm (Sat) / 2pm, 5:30pm (Sun, no performances on Tuesdays)

Dance Musical: Look Back into Love— ORPHEO

Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Sep 25, 27—30, 7:30pm / Sep 26, 3pm

Ballet: Russian National Ballet Theatre Korean Tour

The Last Empress

45,000 won 070-8270-3336~7 Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 6. Walk 2 minutes and you will find M-Plaza on your right.

Ballet: Korea National Ballet—Raymonda

VVIP: 120,000 won, VIP: 100,000 won, R: 70,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won, B: 10,000 won, C: 5,000 won (02) 587-6181 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won, B: 20,000 won (02) 399-1114~6 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

The Korean debut of contemporary Arab political satire “The King is the King.” Not a paean to Elvis Presley, The King is the King is an allegorical story of the events that unfold when a king on an inspection of his subjects meets a drunken market vendor who wants to be king, and takes him back to his palace. The message of Wannous’ work is that power lies not with “the king” but with “the person who wears the crown,” and that in a place where the logic of power is dominant, there is no place for “justice” or “fairness.” As the first Arabic play to be performed by Seoul Metropolitan Theater, “The King is the King” is a great opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of Arab society and culture.

Towol Theater, Seoul Arts Center Sep 17—28, 8pm (Sep 17, 20, 24, 27—28) / 3pm, 6pm (Sep 18—19, 25—26) R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won, A: 10,000 won (02) 501-7888 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

travel & culture SEOUL 53

Goings on Around Town

DESIGNING THE FUTURE?

Get a glimpse of Korea’s freshest design talent at Seoul Design Fair 2010

More info Seoul Design Fair 2010 runs for 21 days, from Sep 17 until Oct 7. Most of the exhibitions mentioned above will be held at Jamsil Sports Complex, the main venue. Website: http://sdf.seoul.go.kr

Getting there Sports Complex Station, Line 2, Exits 6 & 7. 54 SEOUL September 2010

he autumn design festival known in previous years as Seoul Design Olympiad is back, this time in the less Olympian guise of a fair. In its current and previous incarnations, Seoul Design Fair (SDF) has been a major pillar in Seoul’s overall design strategy, aimed at making the megacity a more competitive place through the concept of “Designomics,” which links public design and design industry. This year’s SDF features an emphasis on green design; the Seoul Cycle Design Competition 2010; various forms of free design education; exhibition halls designed by Alessandro Mendini, Seok Chul Kim, and Daniel Libeskind; support for design-related businesses; and plenty more. With the Jamsil Olympic Stadium in southeastern Seoul as its

centerpiece, the festival will take place in various locations across the city.

Unmissable for enthusiasts and professionals alike SDF is divided into three broad sections: Design for Economy, Design for Participation, and Design for Education. Each section contains a variety of exhibitions and competitions, most of which should make interesting viewing for general visitors as well as design industry professionals. Two of the biggest events are the Design Industry Exhibition (Sep 17—Oct 7), a platform for Korean and foreign designers and brands to present their top products, and the Seoul Design Market (same dates), where even more designers have a chance to interact with

each other and the public. The Living in Seoul exhibition, meanwhile, should be of interest to anyone with a passion for interior design.

Hotbed of innovation Design for Participation includes two of the most exciting parts of the festival: Seoul International Design Competition 2010 and Seoul Cycle Design Competition 2010. The former, like many design competitions, has produced some remarkable award-winners in its previous two years. Highlights include Kim Woo-sik ’s “Hansel and Gretel’s Life Pebbles” (Grand Prize, 2008), a device that drops a series of fluorescent pebbles behind firefighters as they move through burning buildings in order to show them the way out again in case of disorientation; and Kim Kyung-kuk’s “Wind Lamps” (Golden Haechi Prize, 2010), elegant cocoon-shaped vertical wind turbines that are designed to be attached to the underside of Seoul’s many river bridges in order to generate renewable electricity to light the bridges at night. Other favorites have included a skipping rope that charges batteries; a portable basin that can be floated in dirty puddles and filled with potable, filtered water; and many other high-quality designs, a lot of them from design students in Seoul and abroad.

The Seoul Cycle Design Competition Aimed at promoting Seoul’s goal of a healthy urban cycling culture, this competition invites designs in three categories: bicycles, cycle fashion and accessories, and cycling infrastructure. Visitors interested in the changing plight of pedal pushers in Seoul are bound to

find some novel designs among the contenders here. The Design for Education section contains plenty of hands-on events and exhibitions and is the place to head to for visitors with kids in tow. Lo o k o u t f o r t h e I d e a a n d I m a g i n a t i o n Experience Hall and the Design Playground. travel & culture SEOUL 55

Goings on Around Town

HI-SEOUL FESTIVAL— NOTHING TO SAY

Everyone’s talking about non-verbal performance

utumn—when the heavy clouds of summer clear away to reveal clear blue skies reaching up into outer space and beyond. The leaves on the ginkgo trees turn to gold; maples turn blood red. The last thing anyone wants is a verbose festival that just won’t shut up and let the serene sound of leaves rustling in the wind complete the atmosphere that balances exquisitely between memories of summer and apprehension of a long, cold winter. What is needed is a non-verbal festival. Luckily, this is exactly what Seoul has provided: Hi Seoul Festival, which takes place from October 2 to 10 across the city, but mainly around the Hangang River, is based on the theme of “non-verbal.” As such, you can be pretty sure it will transcend every generational, linguistic and racial barrier in the book. Highlights of the festival include a fireworks display the night before it starts, an opening gala, invited non-verbal performances from Korea and overseas, open concerts, competitions for the general public, opportunities for non-verbal experiences, a wordless mass of subsidiary events, and a closing ceremony where the causeway-esque Jamsu Bridge across the Hangang River will be closed to traffic.

More info Website: www.hiseoulfest.org (in Korean)

56 SEOUL September 2010

Café In Art One Theater Thru Oct 3, 8pm (weekdays) / 4pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) R: 45,000 won, S: 35,000 won (02) 3273-2223 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Walk along the KFC alley. Turn right in front of Beer Cabin.

The Song of Corean Wonder Space Aug 27—Oct 3, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) 40,000 won (02) 747-5811 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 1. Walk straight and turn right in front of Changjo Concert Hall. Turn left to the alley along Sangbaekgol. Wonder Space is located at the end of the alley.

Richard O'Brien's ‘Rocky Horror Show’ (Original Broadway Cast) Artium, COEX Aug 27—Oct 10, 8pm (Tue, Thu—Fri) / 4pm, 8pm (Wed) / 3pm, 7:30pm (weekends) R: 110,000 won, S: 88,000 won, A: 66,000 won www.musicalrocky.com Tickets: http://ticket.interpark. com/global Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

com/global Ichon Station, Lines 1 (Jungang Line) & 4, Exit 2. Walk 150m toward Yongsan Family Park.

Rock Musical: Tick, Tick... BOOM! Chungmu Art Hall Sep 30—Nov 7, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 2pm, 6pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won 1544-1555 Sindang Station, Line 6, Exit 9. Walk 50m in the direction of Dongdaemun Stadium.

Seopyeonje, The Musical Dongsoong Art Center Thru Nov 7, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) weekdays—S: 77,000 won, R: 88,000 won / weekends—S: 88,000 won, R: 99,000 won (02) 708-5001~3 Jongno 5-ga Station, Line 1, Exit 1. Walk 30m along 5-ga pharmacy alley.

Theater Let There Be Snow in the Desert Hyehwa-dong 1 Beonji Sep 2—12, 8pm (weekdays) / 4pm, 7pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays)

Sep 9, 8pm R: 20,000 won, S: 10,000 won (02) 3274-8600 Daeheung Station, Line 6, Exit 2. Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

15,000 won (02) 3673-5580 Hansung Univ. Station, Line 4, Exit 5. Walk 300m along Dongsomun-ro.

Seoul Marginal Theatre Festival 2010, 12th Edition Daehangno Area Sep 2—19 Admission depends on program (02) 3673-5575, www.mtfestival.com Hyehwa Station, Line 4.

OGU—Hilarious Mourning

Schaubuhne Berlin— Hamlet Namsan Arts Center Sep 29—Oct 1, 8pm (02) 758-2150 Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 1. Turn around and walk about 300m along the hill on your right. Cross the road. The center is located next to the 7-Eleven.

Hoam Art Hall Thru Sep 5, 8pm (Tue, Thu—Fri) / 4pm, 8pm (Wed) / 3pm, 7pm (weekends) R: 60,000 won, S: 40,000 won (02) 501-7888 City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exit 9. Walk 5 minutes. The hall is located inside of the Joongang Ilbo bldg.

42nd Street Charlotte Theater Sep 29—Nov 21, 8pm (Mon— Tue, Thu) / 3pm, 8pm (Wed, Fri—Sat) VIP: 120,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won (02) 501-7888 Jamsil Station, Lines 2 & 8, Exit 3. Walk straight beside Lotte Dept. Store and cross the road. Walk straight and turn right.

The World Festival of National Theaters National Theater of Korea Sep 7—Oct 31 Admission depends on program (02) 2280-4115~6, www.ntok.go.kr Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Seoul Performing Arts Festival 2010 (SPAF) Arko Arts Theater, Seoul Arts Center, Sejong Center, Gwanghwamun Square, Namsan Arts Center, and other venues Oct 2—Nov 14 Admission depends on program (02) 3673-2561~4, www.spaf.or.kr

Festival 場 (Jang) The Palace (Gung), The Musical Theater Yong, National Museum of Korea Thru Oct 24, 8pm (weekdays, Sep 21—23) / 3pm, 7pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays) R: 80,000 won, S: 60,000 won Tickets: http://ticket.interpark.

Namsan Arts Center, Wonder Space, Seoul Art Space (Mullae) Sep 9—25, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm, 7pm (Sat) / 3pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) Adults; 20,000 won, Youths: 15,000 won (02) 758-2150

Ognivo Puppet Theater—Tomorrow Starts Yesterday Mapo Arts Center travel & culture SEOUL 57

Goings on Around Town D. Festa

Daehangno Area Oct 11—Nov 7 Admission depends on program (02) 741-4188, http://cafe.daum.net/2008D-FESTA Hyehwa Station, Line 4.

Performing Arts Market in Seoul (PAMS) National Theater of Korea Oct 11—15 On-site registration required (02) 742-8191, www.pams.or.kr Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Concerts Jazz: Love Actually Dream Hall, KT Olleh Square Every day except Monday 1,000 won 1577-5599 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 2.

VIVA Korea Rock Festival Vivaldi Park, Gangwon-do Sep 3—4 For one day: 40,000 won (Sep 3) / 50,000 won (Sep 4), two days: 60,000 won (02) 417-1129 Sports Complex, Line 2, Exit 6. Take the shuttle bus. (On-site registration required: www.daemyungresort.com/vp)

David Lanz Trio—Reimagining the Beatles Guro Arts Valley Sep 3, 8pm / Sep 4, 5pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 2029-1700~1 Daerim Station, Line 2 & 7, Exit 4. Transfer to maeul bus No. 10 or 11. Get off at Guro Community Center.

A: 33,000 won (02) 3274-8600 Daeheung Station, Line 6, Exit 2. Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

Jarasum International Jazz Festival

2010 Gap Born to Rock Concert

For one day: 25,000 won, two days: 40,000 won, three days: 50,000 won (031) 581-2813~4, www.jarasumjazz.com Jamsil Station, Lines 2 & 8. Transfer to bus No. 7000 and get off at Gapyeong.

AX—Korea Oct 2, 3pm 25,000 won (02) 3444-9989, www.gapconcert.com Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 2. Cross the road, turn left, and walk for five minutes. The hall is located behind the youth center.

Jara Island, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do Oct 15—17

Placebo—Live in Seoul AX—Korea Oct 21, 8pm 99,000 won (02) 517-0394 Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 2. Cross the road, turn left, and walk for five minutes. The hall is located behind the youth center.

Grand Mint Festival 2010 Olympic Park Oct 23—24 For one day: 75,000 won, two days: 110,000 won (02) 322-0014, www.grandmintfestival.com Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3.

2010 Let's SPRIS Rock Festival Vol. 4 Hangang River Nanji Area Oct 2, 12pm 20,000 won (02) 322-8488, www.letsrock.co.kr Mapo-gu Office Station, Line 6, Exit 7. Transfer to bus No. 8773.

Inger Marie Mapo Arts Center Oct 3, 6pm R: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 3274-8600 Daeheung Station, Line 6, Exit 2. Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

Lil Jon—Live in Seoul Ol Park Velodrome, Olympic Park

Keith Jarrett, Gary Peacock, Jack Dejohnette—Trio Concert in Seoul 2010

R: 121,000 won, S: 99,000 won, A: 77,000 won (02) 543-0816 Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3.

Sep 18, 7:30pm

Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Oct 6, 8pm VIP: 200,000 won, R: 150,000 won, S: 100,000 won, A: 70,000 won, B: 50,000 won (02) 399-1114~6 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

2010 Seoul Drum Festival Seoul Forest (plus Sowol Art Hall, Dream Forest, Nam Insa Plaza) Sep 4—30 Free (02) 757-2121, www.seouldrum.go.kr Ttukseom Station, Line 2, Exit 8.

Jazz Bassist Anthony Jackson Mapo Arts Center Sep 12, 6pm R: 77,000 won, S: 55,000 won,

58 SEOUL September 2010

Rufus Wainwright AX-Korea Oct 10, 6pm 99,000 won (02) 563-0595 Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 2. Cross the road, turn left and walk 5 minutes. The hall is located behind the youth center.

Star hip-hop singer and producer Lil Jon lands in Korea for the first stop on his Asia Tour this year. Head to the OL PARK football ground in southeastern Seoul’s Olympic Park on Sep 18 to hear him in action. One of the biggest names in US southern hip-hop, along with Soulja Boy Tell ’Em and TI, Lil Jon is also the creator of the musical genre known as “crunk” and is famous for his catchphrases of “Yeah!” “Okay!” and “What?!” Lil Jon is also as a producer after seeing Usher’s “Yeah!” and Ciara’s “Goodies” to the Billboard No. 1 spot. This visit to Korea—his first—will see Lil Jon giving a display of “the essence of hip-hop.” What?! Make sure you get a ticket.

Hwang Jin-yi

Noon Recital with Hwang Byung-ki

Yeakdang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts

1st Yeo Woo Rak Festival

KB Haneul Youth Theater, National Theater of Korea Sep 2—11 A: 30,000 won, B: 20,000 won (02) 2280-4115~6 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Sep 7—16, 7:30pm (weekdays) / 4pm, 7:30pm (Sat) / 4pm (Sun, no performances on Mondays) S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won (02) 580-3396 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Gugak Concert, Dadam

Umyeondang, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts Sep 28, 11am

R: 40,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won, B: 10,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Traditional Folk Music: Kim Young-im—孝 (Hyo) Concerts Sejong Grand Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Sep 22, 2pm, 5:30pm

VIP: 120,000 won, R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 60,000 won, B: 40,000 won (02) 223-1755 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 1 & 8.

The Hillsides of Mt. Umyeonsan Green Concert

Byeolmajiteo, National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts Sep 26, 4pm Free (02) 580-3054 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

The National Orchestra Company of Korea— Noon Recital with Hwang Byung-ki Main Hall 'Hae,' National Theater of Korea Sep 28, 11am

10,000 won (02) 2280-4115~6 Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ. Station, Line 3, Exit 2, or yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Pop Art Superstar Keith Haring 2010 Seoul Pop Art

Romeo & Juliet (English subtitles available)

13th Seopyeongje Boseong Sori Festival

Free (061) 852-5225~6, www.boseong.go.kr/sorifastival It takes four hours to get from Seoul to Gwangju by express bus. Transfer to bus for Boseong.

Adults: 30,000 won, Youths: 20,000 won (02) 2261-0514 Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4. Walk 200m along the alley between Dongguk Univ. Culture Contents Complex and Maeil Business Newspaper bldg.

Korean Theater

SOMA Museum of Art Thru Sep 5 Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won (02) 3210-4222, www.haring.co.kr Mongchontoseong Station, Line 8, Exit 2. Inside the Gate of Peace, walk 200m to the right.

Korea International Art Fair (KIAF)

Anseong Namsadang Baudeogi Festival

Art Fair

Hall A & B, COEX Sep 9—13

Riverside Park, Anseong-si, Gyeonggi-do Sep 7—12 Free (031) 676-4601, www.baudeogi.com It takes about an hour to get from Seoul to Anseong by express bus. The venue is near the bus terminal.

Free (02) 418-1315 Mongchontoseong Station, Line 8, Exit 2. The gallery is located on the 19th fl. of Hanmi Tower.

Free (02) 760-4850~2 Hyehwa Station, Line 4, Exit 2. Turn left and pass by Marronnier Park. The center is located on your right.

Seoul Namsan Gugakdang Sep 21—Oct 24, 8pm (weekdays) / 3pm (weekends, no performances on Mondays)

Boseong Indoor Gymnasium, Seopyeonje Boseong Sori Hall Oct 16—17

The Museum of Photography, Seoul Thru Sep 4

Arko Art Center & Marronnier Park Thru Sep 5

Jeonju-si, Jeollabuk-do Oct 1—5

Admission depends on program (063) 232-8398, www.sorifestival.com It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Jeonju by express bus.

Photography

Media, Performance, Installation Art

Jeonju International Sori Festival Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Sep 11, 7pm

Walker Evans

Nomadic Party

10,000 won (02) 580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Transfer to green bus No. 12 or 4429.

Ahn Sook-sun & Kim Duk-soo—Gonggam

Art Exhibitions

IIcons, 1989 © Keith Haring Foundation

Korean Music

15,000 won (02) 766-3702~4, www.kiaf.org Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Andong Maskdance Festival 2010 Andong-si and vicinity, Gyeongsangbuk-do Sep 24—Oct 3 Admission depends on program (054) 840-6398, 841-6397~8, www.maskdance.com It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Andong by express bus.

Lee Yeon-kyeong— Say a Word Installation Art

Brain Factory Aug 26—Sep 19 Free (02) 725-9520 Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Walk along the west side of the walls of Gyeongbokgung

travel & culture SEOUL 59

Goings on Around Town Palace. You will find Brain Factory on the corner at the first traffic light.

Powerhouse Media Art

Gangnam Space, Gallery Hyundai Aug 24—Sep 19 Free (02) 519-0800 Apgujeong Station, Line 3, Exit 2. Walk 500m. Turn right and walk 600m. Turn left and walk 800m past the LG Fashion shop.

Zin Ki-jong—Earth Report Mixed Media

16 Bungee, Gallery Hyundai Thru Sep 19 Free (02) 722-3503 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk straight along the stone wall. Turn right in front of Ran Studio. The gallery is located near Bubryunsa Temple.

Seoul Arts Center Thru Sep 26

Collection Highlights

(02) 325-3832 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

National Museum of Contemporary Art Thru Sep 30

Sarah Morris—Clips, Knots, and 1972 Gallery Hyundai Sep 4—26

Free (02) 2287-3500 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk along Samcheong-dong Street. The gallery is located on your right.

Laughing Tree Gallery Sep 11—25 Free (Viewings are available by appointment from Sep 19—25.) 010-9528-9333, http://LaughingTree.com Get off at Noksapyeong Station, Line 6, Exit 2. Walk approx. 350 meters until you reach Haebangchon-gil Street. Walk along Haebangchon-gil, and turn left in front of Jongjeom Pharmacy. The gallery is located on your left.

From Turner to Impressionists: The Collection of British Landscape Paintings Painting

Hangaram Art Museum, 60 SEOUL September 2010

Seoul Design Fair 2010 Design

Painters Who Had to Leave Their Hometowns

Jamsil Sports Complex and four design clusters (Dongdaemun DDP District, Mapo Hongdae District, Guro Digital Complex, Gangnam Sinsa-dong District) Sep 17—Oct 7

Korean War 60th Anniversary Special Exhibition

Goyang Aramnuri Arts Complex, Goyang-si Thru Sep 27 Adults: 5,000 won, Youths: 4,000 won 1577-7766 Walk from Jeongbalsan Station, Line 3, Exit 3.

Incheon International Digital Art Festival Digital Art

Tomorrow City, Songdo, Incheon Sep 1—30 Free (032) 210-4045, www.indaf.org Univ. of Incheon Station, Incheon Line.

Contemporary Art

Free (02) 2188-6038 Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

Contemporary Art

2010 Art & Play— Neverland

Adam Lofbomm— Urban Excerpts: Meditations on the overlooked

Contemporary Art

Youths: 2,500 won (02) 2188-6000 Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Sep 29 Adult: 8,000 won, Students: 5,000 won (02) 580-1300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

A Tour of World Architecture in Currencies Architecture

Bank of Korea Museum Thru Oct 3 Free (02) 759-4881~2 Hoehyeon Station, Line 4, Exit 7. Turn left through the alley beside Outback Steak House. Go straight until you see the main street. The museum is located across the street.

Lee Sang-hyun— Calligraphy Calligraphy

Hangeul Gallery, The Story of Sejong Thru Oct 3 Free (02) 399-1150~4 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exits 2 & 3.

The Shadow of Speech La Sombra del Habla, Colección MACBA

National Museum of Contemporary Art Thru Oct 3 Adults: 5,000 won,

Free (02) 412-0729, 0745, http://sdf.seoul.go.kr Jamsil Sports Complex—Sports Complex Station, Line 2, Exit 6 or 7.

Realism in Asian Art Asian Contemporary Art

National Museum of Art. Deoksugung Thru Oct 10 Adults: 5,000 won, Youths: 2,500 won (02) 2188-6000 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 2 or Line 2, Exit 12. The museum is located inside of Deoksugung Palace.

Kim Myung-sook— The Work for Workers Painting

Savina Museum of Contemporary Art Sep 8—Oct 15 Adults: 2,000 won, Youths: 1,000 won (02) 736-4371, 4410 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Turn left at the exit. Turn left in front of the Post Office.

Theo Jansen—Animals Modular Kinetic Art

Gwacheon National Science Museum Thru Oct 17 Adults: 13,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won, Kindergartners: 4,000 won 1566-0329, www.theojansen.co.kr Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 5.

Students: 1,500 won (02) 733-8945 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk seven minutes in the direction of Jeongdok Public Library.

www.sac.or.kr/f1 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429.

www.curator.or.kr DMC Station, Line 6, Exit 2. Transfer to bus No. 7711 or 7730 and get off at Sangam Worldcup Park 5-danji Apt.

Onggi Expo Ulsan Korea 2010

Media City Seoul 2010— Trust

Pottery

Media Art Biennale

Adults: 7,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Children: 4,000 won (052) 257-8830, www.onggiexpo.com It takes about five hours to get from Seoul to Ulsan by express bus.

Adults: 3,000 won (ages 20—23: 2,000 won) (02) 2124-8981, www.mediacityseoul.org Seoul Museum of Art—City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk 5 minutes.

Oegosan Onggi Village, Ulju-gun, Ulsan Sep 30—Oct 24

Seoul Museum of Art and other venues Sep 7—Nov 17

Formula One, The Great Design Race Design

Contemporary Art

Art Sonje Center Thru Oct 24

Adults: 3,000 won,

Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Arts Center Sep 8—Oct 31

Works in the Open Air

Adults: 12,000 won, Students: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won (02) 580-1705,

Gyeonggi Museum of Modern Art, Ansan-si Thru Oct 31

Summer Special Exhibition

Free (031) 481-7007~9 Gongdan Station, Line 4, Exit 1. Walk 15 minutes in the direction of Choji Sports Arena Intersection.

Over the Rainbow— 9 Journeys of Dorothy in the Museumland Contemporary Art

Gwangju Biennale 2010—10000 LIVES Gwangju Biennale Hall and other venues in Gwangju Sep 3—Nov 7

Throughout the exhibition period— Adults: 30,000 won, Youths: 20,000 won, Children: 10,000 won One day— Adults: 14,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Children: 3,000 won (062) 608-4114, www.gb.or.kr It takes three hours to get from Seoul (Yongsan Station) to Gwangju by KTX. Take a cab. It will take another 10 minutes to get to the venue. Now back for the eighth time, this year’s Gwangju Biennale is a sprawling investigation of the relationships that bind people to images and images to people. With works by more than 100 artists, produced between 1901 and 2010, as well as several new commissions, the exhibition will be configured as a temporary museum in which both artworks and cultural artifacts are brought together to compose a idiosyncratic catalogue of figures and icons, faces and masks, idols and dolls. The exhibition title is borrowed from “Maninbo (10,000 Lives),” an as-yet-unfinished 30 volume epic poem conceived by Korean author and poet Ko Un while imprisoned in 1980 for his participation in the South Korean democratic movement. As a means to preserve his sanity while being held in solitary confinement, Ko envisioned a poem that described every single person he had met throughout his life, including historical figures and fictional characters encountered in literature. Upon his release, he began writing the 3,800 poems that compose “Maninbo,” a magnum opus that reads as a personal encyclopedia of humanity.

Yuki Onodera Photography

The Museum of Photography, Seoul Sep 11—Dec 4 Free (02) 418-1315 Mongchontoseong Station, Line 8, Exit 2. The gallery is located on the 19th fl. of Hanmi Tower.

Sungkok Art Museum Thru Nov 7 Adults: 5,000 won, Students: 3,000 won (02) 737-7650 Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7. Walk in the direction of Seodaemun. Turn right at the alley between the Salvation Army Hall and the Seoul History Museum and walk 300m.

The Masters of Korean Modern and Contemporary Art

12 Speed No.2 © Yuki Onodera

Haegue Yang—Voice Over Three

Modern and Contemporary Art

63 Art Hall, 63 Sky Art Thru Nov 7

Adults: 12,000 won, Children: 11,000 won (02) 789-5663 Yeouinaru Station, Line 5, Exit 4. Walk 80m in the direction of MBC.

DMC Media Art Festival Media Art

Digital Media City Sep 9—Nov 9 Free (02) 120, 340-9965 3153-7134, http://sedco.sba.kr,

Forgotten War, The Division of Reality Painting

National Museum of Contemporary Art Thru Dec 26 Free (02) 2188-6000 Seoul Grand Park Station, Line 4, Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus. travel & culture SEOUL 61

Goings on Around Town Free (02) 3290-7150, www.hiseoulfest.org

Modern Art (Painting)

Seoul Museum of Art Thru Dec 31 Adults: 700 won, Youths: 300 won, Others: Free Weekdays: (02) 120, Holidays & Nights: (02) 2124-8800 City Hall Station, Line 1, Exit 1 or Line 2, Exits 11 & 12. Walk five minutes.

Memories of the Future Contemporary Art

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art Thru Feb 13, 2011 Adults: 10,000 won, Youths (ages 7—18): 6,000 won (02) 2014-6900 Hangangjin Station, Line 6, Exit 1. Walk 100m toward Itaewon. Turn right at the first alley and walk up the hill.

Festivals Geumsan Insam (Ginseng) Festival Geumsan Ginseng Center Plaza & Ginseng Herb Street, Chungcheongnam-do Sep 3—12 Free (041) 750-2391, www.geumsan.go.kr (click on festival link at upper left of page). It takes about three hours to get from Seoul to Geumsan by express bus.

2010 Mungyeong Omija Festival Mungyeong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do Sep 10—12 Free (054) 554-7555, www.5mija.kr It takes three hours to get from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Mungyeong by bus. 62 SEOUL September 2010

Hallyu Dream Festival Gyeongju Gymnasium & Gyeongju Citizen Stadium, Gyeongsangbuk-do Sep 10—12 Free for foreign independent travelers. Please check the details at the official website. (053) 950-3332, www.hallyudreamfestival.or.kr Take the free shuttle bus in front of Dongwha Duty Free Shop. It's a five-hour trip from Seoul to Gyeongju. For more info, visit http://english.visitkoreayear.com and click on the “Hallyu Dream Festival” link.

5th Yukuijeon Festival Gwangtonggyo Bridge Area, Cheonggyecheon Stream Sep 11—12 Free (02) 2269-8778, 8855, http://yukuijeonfestival.com Jonggak Station, Line 1, Exit 5 / Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 5.

2010 Hanseong Baekje Cultural Festival Peace Square at Olympic Park Sep 17—19 Free (02) 2147-2832, www.baekjefest.com Olympic Park Station, Line 5, Exit 3.

Iksan Seodong Festival 2010 Iksan-si, Jeollabuk-do Sep 30—Oct 3 Free (063) 859-5797, http://festival.iksan.go.kr It takes two hours to get from Yongsan to Iksan by KTX.

Hi Seoul Festival 2010— Oh! Nonverbal Han River area and other venues throughout Seoul Oct 2—10

Usuyeong Tourist Site, Haenamgun & Nokjin Tourist Site, Jindogun, Jeollanam-do Oct 8—10 Free (061) 286-5251, www.myeongryang.com It takes more than three hours to get from Seoul to Mokpo by express bus. Take the shuttle bus at Mokpo Terminal.

Forgotten War, The Division of Reality

Chun Kyung-ja's Spirit

2010 The Great Battle of Myeongryang Festival

2010 Mungyeong Apple Festival Mungyeong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do Oct 9—31

Suwon Hwaseong Cultural Festival Hwaseong Haenggung, Yeonmudae, and other venues Oct 6—10 Free (031) 228-2621~4, http://shfes-eng.suwon.ne.kr Suwon Station, Line 1. Transfer to bus No. 2, 7, 7-2, 8, or 13 to get to Jongno Intersection (Hwaseong Haenggung).

Free (054) 550-8266, http://mgapp.com/main/index It takes three hours to get from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Mungyeong by bus.

Seoul International Fireworks Festival Yeouido Hangang Park Oct 9, 5pm Free www.bulnori.com

The Korea Foundation Cultural Center’s 5th Anniversary Festival Thank-you Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Oct 7—8, 7:30pm / Oct 9, 5pm / Oct 10, 4pm

VIP: 250,000 won, R: 200,000 won, S: 150,000 won, A: 100,000 won, B: 50,000 won (02) 2650-7481~2 Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exits 4 & 5. Walk 5—10 minutes or take shuttle bus, bus No. 12, or bus No. 4429. SCREENING SCHEDULE Easy Rider 94 min. 9. 4 (Sat) 3 pm I 9. 20 (Mon) 7 pm The Motorcycle Diaries 124 min. 9. 6 (Mon) 7 pm I 9. 25 (Sat) 3 pm Kamome Diner 102 min. 9. 8 (Wed) 7 pm I 9. 18 (Sat) 3 pm Doctor Zhivago 197 min. 9. 11 (Sat) 3 pm Love Letter 117 min. 9. 13 (Mon) 7pm I 9. 29 (Wed) 7 pm Our School 100 min. 9. 15 (Wed) 7 pm I 9. 27 (Mon) 7 pm

To mark the fifth anniversary of its opening as Korea’s firstever space dedicated to reciprocal cultural exchange, the Korea Foundation Cultural Center is holding a month-long festival this September. Based on the center’s five main fields of activity— exhibitions, performances, film screenings, lectures, and libraryrelated endeavors—the festival will feature something for every visitor to the center to get involved in: an exhibition entitled “Spectrum of the KF Cultural Center”; concerts that include a Ravel number played on two marimbas and tango played on the accordion and the guitar; screenings of “Easy Rider,” “The Motorcycle Diaries,” “Kamome Diner,” “Doctor Zhivago,” “Love Letter,” and “Our School”; a lecture on world music; and a special book event where the library’s most prolific borrowers will be given a book of their choice from the library’s own collection.

Other Events Seoul Gift Show Hall C, COEX Sep 9—12 8,000 won (02) 2698-0003, www.seoulgiftshow.com Samseong Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Leisure Sports: ChunCheon 2010 World Leisure Congress and Leisure Games Songam Sport Town, Daeryongsan Athletic Park and other venues, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do Aug 28—Sep 5 (033) 250-4527 Visit www.worldleisure2010.org for more information. It takes two hours to get from Seoul to Chuncheon by express bus.

F1 Racing: Formula 1 2010 Korean Grand Prix F1 Racing Track, Yeongam-gun, Jeollanam-do Oct 22—24 Tickets: http://ticket.interpark. com/Global/Play/F1/F1.asp

Cinema 11th Mexican Film Festival Cinematheque Aug 31—Sep 5

Seoul Grand Sale 2010

Adults: 6,000 won, Youths: 5,000 won, Seniors: 4,000 won (02) 741-9782, www.cinematheque.seoul.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Lines 1, 3 & 5, Exit 5. Walk straight for 5 mintues. The theater is located in Nagwon Arcade.

Throughout the city Thru Sep 12 (02) 120, www.seoulgrandsale.com

2010 World Oriental Medicine-Bio Expo in Jecheon Jecheon-si, Chungcheongbuk-do Sep 16—Oct 16 Free (043) 641-2056, www.hanbang-expo.org It takes an hour and a half to get from Seoul to Jecheon by express bus.

The 6th Seoul WoW Book Festival Hongdae Parking Lot Alley Sep 18—24 Free (02) 336-1584~5, www.wowbookfest.org Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2.

Sports Baseball: 2010 KBO (Korea Baseball Organization) Season Major baseball stadiums in Seoul area: Jamsil Stadium—Sports Complex Station, Line 2, Exits 5 & 6 Mokdong Stadium—Omokgyo Station, Line 5, Exit 3 Munhak Stadium—Munhak Sports Complex Station, Incheon Line, Exit 2 Games every day thru Oct (except Mondays) English Service: (02) 3460-4632, 4643~4, Reservations: 1588-4567

CHIFFS

Daebang Station, Line 1; Yeouinaru, Yeouido and Mapo Stations, Line 5; National Assembly, Saetgang Stations, Line 9.

4th Great Short Film Festival KT&G Sangsang Madang Cinema Sep 2—8 Admission depends on program (02) 330-6200 Hongik Univ. Station, Line 2, Exit 5. Turn left and go two blocks. Walk through the Walkable Street on your right. Cross the road and go straight. The hall is located next to Luxury Su.

Marathon: 2010 Seocho Happy Marathon Banpo Sports Complex Sep 11, 9am Admission: 10,000—20,000 won (02) 542-0596~7, http://seochomarathon.co.kr Half course, 10km course, 5km course, 3km course

Taekkyeon: Taekkyeon Battle Insa-dong Culture Plaza Every Saturday at 4pm thru Sep 11 (02) 733-2469, www.tkbattle.com Jonggak Station, Line 1, Exit 3. Turn left at the intersection.

Marathon: 2nd Korean War 60th Anniversary Recapturing Seoul Marathon

Experimental Film and Video Festival in Seoul (EXiS 2010) Art House Momo / Film Forum Sep 1—7 Admission depends on program (02) 3141-1840~1, www.ex-is.org Art House Momo—Located inside of Ewha Womans Univ. / Film Forum—Located near the back gate of Ewha Womans Univ.

Pyeonghwa Park, World Cup Park Sep 26, 9am Admission: 30,000—40,000 won (02) 477-0357~8, www.928seoul.com Full course, half-course, 10km course, 6.25km course

Martial Arts: 2010 Chungju World Martial Arts Festival World Martial Arts Theme Park, Chungju-si, Chungcheongbuk-do Sep 29—Oct 3 (043) 850-6720~4, 7981~3, www.martialarts.or.kr

15th Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF) Screening Venues in Haeundae, PIFF Square in Nampo-dong, PIFF Village in Haeundae (TBC) Oct 7—15 (Asian Film Market: Oct 10—13) Admission depends on program (051) 747-3010, www.piff.org It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Busan by KTX.

4th Chungmuro International Film Festival in Seoul (CHIFFS) Theaters of Chungmuro Street, Jung-gu District Sep 2—Sep 10 Admission depends on program (02) 2236-6231~4, www.chiffs.kr travel & culture SEOUL 63

Goings on Around Town

Regular Events Nanta

Jung Dong: Mon—Sun 2pm, 5pm, 8pm Cheongdam: Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 5pm, 8pm, Sun 5pm, Myeong-dong: Mon—Fri Sun 5pm, 8pm, Sat 2pm, 5pm, 8pm

Korean Folk Performance for Visitors

Ballerina Who Loves B-boy

National Folk Museum,

LotteWorld Art Hall,

Sat 3pm Free (02) 3704-3114, www.nfm.go.kr Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3. Walk 15 minutes from Exit 5.

VIP: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, (Myeong-dong—A: 40,000 won) (02) 739-8288, www.nanta.co.kr/en Jung Dong: Seodaemun Station, Line 5, Exit 5. Cheongdam: Gangnam-gu Office Station, Line 7, Exit 4.Myeong-dong: Myeong-dong Station, Line 4, Exit 6 or Euljiro 1-ga Station, Line 2, Exits 5 or 6.

Sachoom Sachoom Theater (Nagwon Arcade),

Tue—Fri 8pm, Sat 4pm, 7:30pm, Sun 4pm 50,000 won (070) 8249-3023, www.sachoom.com Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 5, Exit 5.

Jump Jongno Cinecore Theater,

Mon 8pm, Thu—Fri 4pm, 8pm, Sat 1pm, 4pm, 8pm, Sun 3pm, 6pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won (02) 722-3995, www.hijump.co.kr Jongno 3-ga Station, Line 1, Exit 15.

Seoul Namsan Gugakdang Regular Performance Seoul Namsan Gugakdang,

Wed, Fri 7:30pm, Sat 5pm Adults: 20,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won (02) 2261-0515, www.sejongpac.or.kr/sngad Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4.

Korean Traditional Stage, Miso Chongdong Theater, Daily (no performance on Mondays) 4pm, 8pm

Pungnyu Hanmadang Theater Pungnyu, Korea Heritage Cultural Foundation bldg.,

R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won, (02) 751-1500, www.koreamiso.com City Hall Station, Lines 1 or 2, Exit 1. Miso, one of Korea’s most popular traditional performances, now has its own dedicated theater in central Seoul. Chongdong Theater, in the historic neighborhood of Jeong-dong, is just down the road from the Deoksugung Palace and an ideal location to take in Miso’s compelling blend of traditional dance, music and percussion.

Every Friday, 7:30pm 5,000 won (02) 3011-2178~9, www.chf.or.kr Seolleung Station, Line 2, Exit 8. Walk in the direction of Gangnam-gu Office. The theater is located next to Ramada Hotel.

Battle B-boy (Baby) B-boy Theater,

Wed—Fri 8pm, Sat 6pm, Sun 2pm Adults: 50,000 won, Youths: 30,000 won (02)323-5233, www.sjbboys.com Sinchon Station, Line 2, Exit 1. Transfer to bus No. 273. Get off at Samjin Pharmacy bus stop.

Changwoo Arirang Bukchon Changwoo Theater,

Fri, Sat, Sun 11am R: 30,000 won, S: 20,000 won (02) 747-3809 Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 3. Walk straight until you see the stone wall of Changdeokgung Palace. Turn left and pass Wonseo Park. The theater is located on the left alley.

Wed—Thu 8pm, Fri 5pm, 7pm, Sat—Sun 3pm, 6pm R: 50,000 won (02) 2266-3727, www.showbboy.com/ language/english.asp Jamsil Station, Line 2, Exit 4.

Culture and Art in Seoul Plaza Seoul Plaza,

Daily 7:30pm Free (02) 594-4325, www.casp.or.kr City Hall Station, Lines 1 & 2, Exits 5 & 6.

Legend of Flower Walkerhill Theatre, Sheraton Grande Walkerhill Hotel,

Daily (no performances on Sundays) 5pm, 7:30pm S: 60,000 won, R: 80,000 won (02) 455-5000, www.legendofflower.com Take shuttle bus at Gwangnaru Station, Line 5, Exit 4 (in the direction of Gangbyeon Station.)

Saturday Performance of Korean Music & Dance National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts,

Sat 4pm 10,000 won (02) 580-3333, www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5.

PAN—The Korean Traditional Performing Arts directed by Kim Duk Soo Gwanghwamun Art Hall,

Wed—Fri 8pm, Sat—Sun 2pm R: 40,000 won, S: 30,000 won (02) 722-3416, www.ghmarthall.co.kr Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3, Exit 1. Walk 10 minutes along the Sajik Park and turn right.

Traditional Performing Arts Korea House,

Mon—Sat 1st show: Dinner 5:30pm Performance: 7pm, 2nd show: Dinner 7:20pm, Performance 8:50pm, Sunday show: Dinner 6:30pm, Performance 8pm 50,000 won (02) 2266-9101~3, www.koreahouse.or.kr, Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 and 4, Exit 3.

You can find more Korea-related events at

www.ClickKorea.org

64 SEOUL September 2010

relocation companies

dining out

news

nightlife

lifestyle & leisure

shopping

learning Korean

LIVING

special report iii

GLOBAL mOBILITY More than just moving companies, relocation companies get you settled quicker

Written by Robert Koehler | Photograph courtesy of Move One

rELoCATIoN CoMPANIES IN SEoUL • move One (02) 372-7000; Ilyang Bldg., 164-6 Yeomni-dong, Mapo-gu • Crown Worldwide Group (02) 796-5717; Room 2201, Gwanghwamun Opisia Building, 163 Sinmun-no 1-ga, Jongno-gu • paragon Relocation (02) 5543662; 2nd Floor, Doowon B/D, 51-1, Hanganro 2-ga Yongsan-gu • Asian Tigers Transpack (02) 598-9705; Room 901, Hoseo University Venture Tower, 319 Gasan-dong, Geumcheon-gu • Julie's Realty and Relocation (02) 790-2097; 11-1 Hangang-ro 1-ga, Yongsan-gu • Santa Fe Relocation Services Korea (02) 2234-3383; 373-35 Sindang-dong, Jung-gu • Allied pickfords (02) 796-8703; 3rd fl., 147 Hangang-ro 2-ga, Yongsan-gu • Ace Rent (02) 797-0330; D-201 Yongsan Xii, 50-1 Hangang-ro, Yongsan-gu • Inter-ways (02) 793-8866; Room 904, Hannam Building, 737-37 Hannam-dong, Yongsangu 66 SEOUL September 2010

elocating to a new country is never an easy thing to do, but it can be especially so for expatriate employees of multinationals, who are expected to perform at a high level as soon as possible. Fortunately, relocation companies are here to help. Part moving company, part cultural coordinator, a relocation company helps you not only get from point A to point B, but also settle in after you’ve arrived. By providing insight into the local housing market, they also save companies money by ensuring new arrivals don’t get taken for a ride.

More than just a moving company So what sets a relocation company apart from your garden-variety moving company? According to Dennis Muldowney, the general manager of Crown Worldwide Korea Ltd., the Seoul office of the global relocation, logistics, and record management company, relocation companies set themselves apart “ by the different services they provide and the professionalism that surrounds them.” Moving companies simply move your stuff from one location to the other. Relocation companies do

this, of course, and much more. Bryan Koo, the country manager of Move One, an awardwinning relocation company with offices in places as disparate as New York and Kandahar Airbase, Afghanistan, said relocation companies provide a full range of services, including home searches, school searches and visa/immigration services. "Companies come to relocation companies because they provide one contact point at which all services can be provided," he says. In a global economy where time is money, transferred personnel need to hit the ground running. To help employees make the transition quickly and (relatively) painlessly requires much more than a moving van. It requires knowledge on a wide range of subjects, from immigration procedures to local labor and business laws, and a system that can support and educate clients. Move One, for example, helps you find a home and offers a wide range of settling-in services, including city orientations, tips on living in the host country, advice for medical care, introduction to expat organizations, and help with opening bank accounts. They even have specialized services for bringing over your pets, although I’m guessing your pet potbellied

www.moveonekorea.com pig will be better welcomed in some host countries than others.

fostering a successful assignment Relocation companies can help companies greatly reduce their relocation budgets, most importantly by providing knowledge of local market conditions. “When companies are looking to move, they look to relocation companies to sort through the market and figure it out,” says Muldowney. They help clients avoid getting fleeced, and, just as importantly, they advise clients on what they can reasonably expect for their housing budget. There are many things that go into a successful assignment, however. As most employees sent overseas do three-year tours, families are important. In the past, companies wouldn’t spend on family support, but times have changed, and relocation companies now offer a wide range of family support services. Crown Worldwide Korea, for instance, offers spousal support, since an unhappy spouse can turn into a failed assignment. This includes career support, with information provided on local job opportunities and labor laws. For families with children, information and counseling is provided regarding schools— often cited as the biggest concern for employees sent on long-term assignments overseas. Relocation companies generally provide some sort of cultural orientation service. Move One, for instance, provides one or two days of orientation services, including explanations of transportation, information on local sites and introductions to social clubs. In a place like Korea, orientation can even include language training: 100—500 hours of it, in the case of Crown Worldwide Korea. Orientation is now set in the relocation policies of many companies, a considerable development from the past, when companies would put their employees on a plane with little more than the contact number of a realtor.

Making it easy every step of the way 02-372-7000 Services • Moving Services • Relocation Services • Secure Storage Services • Vehicle Transportation • Fine Art Shipping • Multilingual Staff and Services

‘Two to three months’ Thanks to the range of relocation services provided by relocation companies, employees sent overseas can achieve a degree of normalcy relatively quickly—“two to three months,” according to Muldowney. Time can be reduced by “preview tours,” on which some companies send employees scheduled for overseas deployments. It also helps for employees to set their sights at an appropriate level. Says Muldowney, “A big part of a relocation company is to help employees set realistic expectations.”

Global web: www.moveonerelo.com travelKorea & culture SEOUL 67 Il Yang Bldg., 164-6 Yeomri-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul 121-874, Tel. +82-2-372-7000

dining out

FOOd ALCHEmY Discovering molecular Seoul at Edward Kwon’s The Spice Written by Daniel Gray | Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo and Daniel Gray

he imposing black double doors framed in red evoke a sense of wonderful danger. It seems as if you are about to enter a secret masque ball. Inside, the futuristic, neo-Gothic interior has a sexy haughtiness that seems to snub you while flipping her hair back and giving you a coquettish smile.

Cosmopolitan, not pretentious There is a cosmopolitan air at The Spice— around me I could hear people speaking in French, Arabic, English, and Korean. There is a sense of class—people at a table near me were using their knife and fork to cut their bread. The place is kinetic and makes you feel like you’re the center of the world. Surprisingly, the prices are not pretentious. Dinner courses start at 35,500 won, and the most expensive course is only 57,500 won. Although the dishes lack in price, they do not 68 SEOUL September 2010

lack in ingredients or skill. Words like foie gras , truffle oil, lobster, cherries, mascarpone , chervil, sous vide , foam, veloute , and ballotine can be found on every dinner course.

Culinary education The skill is also evident, and the tastes are so good that they embed themselves in your memory. On my first visit, I had a slowly braised pork dish with the most delicate gnocchi, topped with the greenest of peas, making me yearn to have five courses of just that dish. On my most recent journey back, I had the Exclusive Course. No regrets here. Everything at Edward Kwon’s feels customized. The foie gras first course was seared and sliced into three pieces in the center of the plate with three pieces of toasted brioche and three halves of cherry drizzled with a strawberry reduction sauce. The savory duck liver paired with the

Edward Kwon’s The Spice: Recommended. 3 Stars out of 4. The Spice T. (02) 749-2596 Seoul, Yongsan-gu, Hannam-dong 729-45 directions: Hangangjin Station, Line 6, Exit 3. Daniel Gray works as a marketing director at O’ngo Food Communications. www.ongofood.com

crisp brioche and tart cherry was a delightful way to set the stage for what was to follow.

No ordinary chicken Course two was a cappuccino-like soup of porcini over eggplant caviar—not a drop of this was wasted. The salad course had truffle aioli over a green field of small leaves and flowers with soft boiled quail eggs and crispy pancetta. I had chicken for the main course—I know that sounds utterly ordinary, but cooked sous vide , it is a juicy, flavorful bomb with a crisp exterior that is served over kabocha squash puree and chicken confit . The tiny cubes of confit were the stars of this dish, packing a ton of flavor. For dessert, I took on the lemon olive oil cake with a luscious dollop of chocolate. The meringue teardrops added delightful crunch to the dish, and were perfect when dipped in the polka-dots of raspberry coulis .

Leaving room for more With the meal almost finished, I had to stop. I didn’t finish my dessert because I didn’t want to feel over-satiated; I knew this is a place I wished to return to. The Spice is a restaurant that offers the full breadth of experience. Of course, the food is important, but The Spice offers something more. The atmosphere evokes a sense of wonder, the clientele raises social awareness, and the food—it’s a journey of art, culture, and experimentation.

An insight into molecular cuisine with Darren Vaughan, the Australian chef of The Spice SEOUL: What is molecular cuisine? DV: It is the study of the physical and chemical process that occurs while cooking. Often, these studies encourage chefs to utilize other food-based products to achieve very different results. SEOUL: What exactly is sous vide cooking, and why is it used these days? DV: It’s actually a very simple, modern method of cooking, but requires a vacuum machine and a controlled/accurate water bath system. This cooking method allows us to cook food at the temperature that we want it to reach. That is, if we want to cook a beef fillet to medium rare, we can cook the fillet, vacuumed in a water bath at precisely 55°C, without having to expose it to additional heat that would otherwise overcook the meat.

SEOUL: What other kinds of special techniques are used at The Spice? DV: Edward and I both have fine dining backgrounds. However, at The Spice we are using skills and cooking techniques that cater towards casual dining. Slow roasting and butter poaching will be two cooking methods that we will explore in future menus. SEOUL: What new flavors are you planning on introducing in your next menu? DV: The menu at The Spice will change soon, and we are looking at exposing the customers to new combinations of ingredients. We will continue to use lamb on the menu, and begin to marry seafood and meat in the same dish, such as roast scallop and pork belly or chicken with crab and avocado salad.

travel & culture SEOUL 69

news

WHAT FOREIGNERS REALLY LIKE ABOUT SEOUL

Survey pinpoints makgeolli , jjimjilbang , and the Hongdae area as favorites

Eating galbi; partying in Hongdae Top nightlife choices included the clubs and distinctive streets of the Hongdae (Hongik University) area, as well as the southern Apgujeong neighborhood and the Bugak Skyway, a popular mountain driving course north of the old city that offers great nighttime views. The fitness and well-being category was topped by jjimjilbang (steam rooms), vegetarian food, and health screenings, while food rankings showed a surprising exclusion of bulgogi (marinated grilled beef) at the top in favor of galbi (roast ribs), samgyetang (a stewed chicken dish), kalguksu (knife-cut noodles), and jeon (thick pancakes containing seafood and/or vegetables) with makgeolli .

Shop or walk ’til you drop A survey by Seoul Metropolitan Government (SMG) of 500 foreigners has produced a list of the city’s “Greatest Top 20” (G20) experiences. Popular answers included visiting Mt. Namsan, drinking makgeolli (rice beer), and partying in the Hongdae area at night. The survey focuses on things to do rather than simply favorite places, and will be used to design special Seoul tours centered on its top results. By listing their top ten preferences in each of twenty categories, including traditional markets, nightlife, tourism on foot, Korean alcohol, shopping, and health and well-being, the survey’s 500 participants gave a glimpse of the varied tastes of Seoul’s expatriate residents, and how in touch they are with what the city has to offer. 70 SEOUL September 2010

When it came to shopping, traditional favorites Myeong-dong and Dongdaemun Market took first and second place as usual, but were joined by an eclectic selection of other retail hot spots such as the massive Yongsan Electronics Market, COEX Mall, and Cheongdam-dong Street. Foreigners proved equally savvy when it came to good places to take a walk, citing Samcheong-dong, Seonyudo Park, Sinsa-dong, and more. SMG is producing a book and website based on the survey results, which will also contain details of tourist courses based on the top answers. More details can be found on a trip planner, based on the survey, at the Seoul Convention Bureau website (www.miceseoul.com).

Kim Yu-na represents Seoul worldwide

Winner of two gold medals at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Winter Olympics in Vancouver, Kim Yu-na is currently the owner of one of the best-known faces in Korea. In July, she was appointed as an official ambassador by Seoul Metropolitan Government, and she is now expected to help promote the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s image around the world. As such, she will be the star of advertisements for Seoul that are due to be broadcast in America. Kim already features in a bewilderingly large number of advertisements in Korea. Meanwhile, her coach, retired professional Canadian figure skater Brian Orser, was appointed an honorary citizen of Seoul earlier this year. In April, it was announced that Kim would set up her own management company, AT Sports, to take care of her personal management and arrange events.

WHERE TO BUY CDS If you still have an old-fashioned distrust of music files and a yearning for the rainbow glint and spin of a real CD, hope is not lost. Head to Hyang Music in Sinchon for a cornucopia of real, tangible compact discs. To get there, come of out Sinchon Station, Line 2, Exit 2 and head straight on for five or ten minutes. Look out for Hyang Music on your left. Tel. (02) 337-7598. H o t Tr a c k s , i n K y o b o B o o k C e n t e r (Gwanghwamun; see p. 22) also has a good selection of CDs. Another option, at least for Korean music CDs, is Seoul Selection Bookshop in Gwanghwamun. Tel. (02) 734-9565.

travel & culture SEOUL 71

nightlife

ON A ROLL

Doing naughty things that Koreans aren’t allowed to at Seven Luck casino

Written by Scott Hammel | Photographs courtesy of Seven Luck

gamblers try to guess where a Wheel of Fortune-style wheel will stop spinning. In short, Seven Luck has something for everyone.* (*Except, unfortunately, for poker players. Seven Luck has discontinued its poker rooms, so for lovers of Texas Hold ’Em the Walker Hill Casino is the place to go. Its poker room is open from 3pm on Monday through Friday, and 24 hours on weekends. Walker Hill also offers frequent cash prize tournaments.) On this day, I’m in the mood for blackjack, so I search for a table to join. Like all casinos, Seven Luck offers a number of tables with varying minimum and maximum bet levels. I find a table that allows minimum bets of 10,000 won and take a seat. Immediately, the woman on my right explains that the table is on a hot streak and asks if I would mind sitting out the next couple of hands. I don’t. There are certain rules of etiquette to follow, and one is to not jump into a game when the players are on a positive roll.

walk out of the elevator on the second floor of the Oakwood residential tower in Gangnam and make my way down the hall toward the entrance of the Seven Luck Casino. Though I don’t think it ’s required, I feel compelled to pass through a metal detector at the end of the corridor, where an attractive young woman awaits. “Welcome to Seven Luck. May I see your passport or membership card, please?” This is the first difference I notice from casinos I’ve visited in Las Vegas and Reno: it seems everyone who works at Seven Luck is attractive, whether they are cocktail waitresses, dealers, money exchangers, or even pit bosses. Other differences that strike me are that it’s far better lit and relatively quiet compared to Vegas casinos.

Universal carpet I have neither my passport nor a membership card, but this does not prove a problem, as the woman at the front desk accepts my alien registration card for entry. The young woman looks over my ID, types something into her computer, and then wishes me a good time. Inside now, traipsing across a spongy—and mildly garish—carpet that is apparently a signature of casinos around the world, I wander through and around rows of tables hosting a variety of games for the gambler on a mission, or just the curious visitor. Caribbean Stud Poker. Three Card Poker. Baccarat. Blackjack. Each game has its devout fans—and a staff member who will be happy to explain the rules to anyone interested in playing.

Great for socializing

MorE INfo Seven Luck Casino is open 24 hours a day throughout the year. It is only open to foreigners, who must bring a passport or alien registration card to be admitted. Website: www.7luck.com

GETTING THErE

In the mood for blackjack If cards are not your thing, Seven Luck also has roulette, slot machines, video poker, the Chinese dice game “Tai Sai,” and something the casino calls the “Big Wheel,” where 72 SEOUL September 2010

Gangnam branch: Samseong Station, Line 2, Exit 5 or 6 millennium Seoul Hilton branch: Seoul Station, Lines 1 & 4, Exit 8. Go straight for 100m and take the road between the Daewoo Building and SK Namsan Building.

While I wait to play, I order a rum and coke (drinks in casinos are free!), grab a menu, and choose a cheeseburger and fries (food is free, too!). Then I join the game. To my left sits a Korean-Australian man in town for business. The woman to my right (the one who asked me to wait) is a Korean who lives in Korea but possesses American citizenship. She tells me her daughters live and work in the States. To her right sits a Japanese national who is learning the game from her Japanese partner. As the dealer flips cards our way, we all wish each other luck, then proceed to laugh and groan and sigh and cheer as the cards decide our fate. Really, this is the appeal of a trip to the casino—meeting new people and sharing a random experience. And if you’re lucky, you might even take home some extra cash.

lifestyle & leisure

HAVE A CIGAR Havana it ain’t, but Seoul needn’t be purgatory for cigar aficionados Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

or many expatriate lovers of the tobacco leaf, finding quality cigars in Seoul—and cigar-friendly places to smoke them—can be difficult. This needn’t be the case, however. If you know where to look, you can find not only good cigars, but also pleasant venues where lighting up won’t send everyone running for the exits. And if you prefer smoking in the presence of fellow cigar lovers, there’s even the Seoul Cigar Aficionado Society, a club for cigar enthusiasts that meets once or twice a month to “Build Korea's cigar culture one cigar at a time.”

Where to smoke ‘em

Where to buy ‘em

Who to smoke ‘em with

Asia is not a cigar wasteland—Hong Kong sits on one of the largest stashes of Cuban cigars outside of Cuba, this writer was told—but in Korea, where cigar smoking has not been part of the culture, it used to be exceedingly difficult to find good, handmade cigars. Nowadays, though, you can find cigars in hotel cigar shops, wine shops and wine bars, especially in the foreign-friendly Itaewon area. It’s caveat emptor, though: Vincent Lee, founder of Seoul Cigar Aficionado Society (and, it should be noted, proprietor of Maska's Cigars in the J.W. Marriott Hotel), warns there are plenty of fake Cubans going around, and some of the humidifying practices leave much to be desired. At Maska's Cigars in the J.W. Marriott Hotel and the Havana Cigar Divan & Bar of the Grand InterContinental Seoul, however, “you know what you’re getting is real,” says Lee. The Korean cigar market is definitely centered on the Cubans, so if you’re looking for others, you’re in for a bit of a struggle. Maska's Cigars does sell a number of non-Cuban brands, including the Rocky Patel Decade Torpedo, which was rated 95 out of 100 by Cigar Aficionado magazine, and the Gurkha His Majesty's Reserve (HMR), a cognac-infused smoke that will run you a mere 1.1 million won a cigar (or a steal at 22 million won a box!). Mr. Lee recommends, “Come in and try some non-Cubans—you’ll be pleasantly surprised.”

Cigar smoking is no longer an exclusively male preserve (as it used to be), but it’s still pretty social. The Seoul Cigar Aficionado Society—“a cigar group for all those that enjoy a good cigar and the camaraderie of friends”—holds cigar gatherings once or twice a month, including cigar and wine (and cigar and beer) events. Gatherings range in size from two or three to 60; most events, however, get about 10 to 20 people. Most members are expats, but Korean cigar aficionados are joining in, too. Visit the Seoul Cigar Aficionado Society blog (see below) for scheduled events and information, as well as reviews of cigars and cigar venues. Another social option is the Cigar Club of Seoul, a beautiful cigar shop/divan on the slope of Mt. Namsan in Itaewon. Founded by an expatriate Frenchman, you don't need to be a member to buy cigars here or smoke them, but membership does have its benefits. The shop also sells a full range of cigar-related paraphernalia. See below (and the sidebar) for contact info.

While Korea is, generally speaking, a more smoker-friendly place, it is not cigar friendly. Says Lee, “Cigar smoking is not part of Koreans’ culture... so finding cigar-friendly locations can be difficult.” That said, Seoul is not completely bereft of cigar-friendly venues. On the sidebar of the blog of the Seoul Cigar Aficionado Society (seoulcigaraficionadosociety.blogspot.com), you’ll find a list of links to cigar-friendly establishments around town.

Seoul Cigar Aficionado Society Homepage: seoulcigaraficionadosociety. blogspot.com Email: seoulcigaraficionadosociety@gmail. com. Cigar Club of Seoul T. (02) 790-4522 Homepage: www.pierrecigar.com

rECoMMENDED SPoTS To LIGHT UP A CIGAr Big Rock Brewery (Gangnam) Recommended by Vincent Lee, this place specializes in big Rock Beer imported from Calgary, Canada. T. (02) 539 6650 Getting There: Exit 7, Gangnam Station, Line 2. Turn right at the Starbucks, and keep going straight. The bar is on your left. dugahun (Gwanghwamun) Located next to Gyeongbokgung Palace and housed in a century-old hanok home, this French-Italian restaurant has a small selection of Cuban cigars. A smoke in the courtyard, with a glass of port, makes for a perfect evening. It can be a bit pricey, though—this writer recently dropped over 200,000 won for a light dinner, a bottle of wine, some port and a Montecristo No. 2 (39,000 won). T. (02) 3210-2100 Getting There: Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3. Walk straight and swing a right into the alley right before Samcheong-dong Road. Dugahun is on your left. Havana Cigar divan & Bar (Samseong-dong) This authentic cigar bar at the Grand InterContinental Seoul has a well-stocked walk-in humidor , along with a fine selection of single malt whiskies, cognacs, ports and wines. If you enjoy your smoke in the traditional “divan” setting, this is the place. T. (02) 559-7605 Getting There: Exit 5, Samseong Station, Line 2 Seoul Club of Seoul A beautiful modernist cigar divan on Mt. Namsan, just a 5 minute walk from the Hyatt Hotel. T. (02) 790-4522 Getting There: Take a taxi to the Hyatt Hotel on Mt. Namsan, and then walk 5 minutes to the Namsong Building (also home to the Danish Embassy and Philips).

travel & culture SEOUL 73

shopping

eoul is a city in consumer overdrive, with shops and markets around every corner. Which makes it even more frustrating when you can’t find even the most basic foreign food ingredients. SEOUL reveals the best places to shop for a taste of the “motherland.”

SHOppING LIKE BACK HOmE

A small guide to international grocery shopping in Seoul

Written by Gitte Zschoch, with the help of her Facebook friends

Super-mega marts Let’s start with the big players. Costco (www. costco.co.kr) has three stores in the city— located in Yeongdeungpo, Yangjae, and Sangbong. Costco has the biggest selection and the best prices, but as it’s a wholesale store you have to buy huge portions—not quite fit for a single-person household. You also have to become a member in order to shop here (30,000 won per annum). The ubiquitous food chains E-mart (emart.shinsegae.com), Homeplus (corporate.homeplus.co.kr), and Lotte mart (www.lottemart.com) are also continuously increasing the number of imported goods in their inventory. The choice depends on the size of the store. E-mart has a passable selection of processed cheeses, mostly made in Australia. Homeplus has partnered up with the British sell-it-all store Tesco. The Tesco ownbrand products are really, really cheap in the UK. This is not the case in Korea, of course, but their cornflakes and spaghetti are still cheaper than other imported brands. All three chains also have online stores and offer home delivery. Registration is available to foreigners (who hold an alien registration card), but the menus are usually not in English. For online shopping, t h e r e i s a l s o e z s h o p k o r e a . c o m ( w w w. ezshopkorea.com), which delivers Costco products to any location in Korea.

Department store food floors The gourmet floors of department stores like Lotte, Shinsegae, and Hyundai also have foreign food sections, concentrating mostly on Europe, North America, and Japan. Sometimes items go on sale and are ridiculously cheap—I once bought five packs of German potato chips in the main Lotte in Myeongdong, and the women stocking the shelves were staring at me with wide eyes because they probably thought I was going to go feed a wolf.

Import specialists Currently, there are two smaller stores in Seoul that specialize in imported food: the Foreign Food mart in Itaewon and Haddon S u p e r m a r k e t i n n e a r b y H a n n a m - d o n g. (Hannam Supermarket has closed down.) As you enter Foreign Food Mart, the smell of Nag Champa informs you that you’ve left East Asia now for more Western regions. From browsing the shelves, it seems like they have at least one or two products from all the regions of the world, even though their focus is definitely on South Asian and Middle Eastern food, selling all kinds of lentils and curries, interesting spices, and halal foods. Yet they also have a selection of German pickles, English teas, American junk food, and European cheeses. It’s a small, lively store that accepts payment in cash only. T: (02) 793-0082 Open: Every day, 10:30am to 11:30pm Itaewon Station, Line 6, Exit 3. Walk straight. After 100 meters, turn right at the fire station. Walk up the hill, and after passing the “Foreign Restaurant” you will see “Foreign Food Mart.”

74 SEOUL September 2010

Near the UN Village in Hannam-dong, Haddon is a clean, bright, and spacious supermarket t h a t a t t r a c t s m o r e o f a We s t e r n e x p a t community. Friendly and very polite staff greet every customer. It boasts a large selection of Italian olive oils, vinegar, pestos, and tomato sauces and has some products that cannot easily be found anywhere else, like the German gummy bear brand Haribo (four different kinds!). One shelf is dedicated to Japanese foods, and they also have a small drugstore section, mostly selling medicine imported from the United States. Generally a bit on the expensive side, and the frozen food and meat sections didn’t seem to be too well stocked. There is a small fresh fruit and vegetable area and a nicely filled dairy section, with feta from Greece, Turkey, and Cyprus. T. (02) 794-0511 Oksu Station, Line 3. Take maeul bus No. 9 or a taxi (2,400 won) to Hannam Heights Apts. Haddon is in the basement.

other interesting options • Chef Meili’s is a deli and restaurant run by an Austrian ex-Hilton chef. He makes his own sausages every day. Small selection of cheeses also available. Itaewon Station, Line 6, Exit 4, across from the Hamilton Hotel. (02) 7973820.

For more information on locations of the places mentioned here, see our Maps & Guides supplement.

• Wood and Brick is a bakery with a restaurant in Gwanghwamun and an Italian restaurant with a bakery in Gahoe-dong. Nice selection of European breads and a small range of Italian cooking ingredients like olive oil, ham, and noodles. They also make sandwiches and s a l a d s t o g o . w w w. w o o d n b r i c k . c o m . Gwanghwamun Station, Line 5, Exit 7.

• Monomart Monomart is a grocery store chain that carries Japanese foods—everything from Hello Kitty candy to shochu (Japanese-style soju ) and ramen . They have five locations in the Seoul area, including Seorae (French) Village, Ilsan, Bundang, and Suwon. Check out their website at www.monolink.co.kr. • Paris Croissant For lovers of French-style baking, Paris Croissant in Seorae Village imports its flour from France and makes the best croissants in town, they say. People stand in line in the mornings. Express Bus Terminal Station, Lines 3, 7, and 9, Exit 5. Cross the street and turn right. After 500 meters, make a left. The bakery is on your right. • Namdaemun Market might have lots of little stores that sell international food products, but I only know one: when you walk into Gate 1 next to the eponymous south gate—currently shelled in white metal for reconstruction—after about 50 meters you reach a small store on the right selling candy and sweets from Europe, the United States, and Japan. They also have a small selection of non-candy, like Parmesan cheese, Japanese curry, and peanut butter. The good thing: you can bargain down the price. • Ach So! is a small German bakery in Ha n n a m - d o n g. A g e n t l e m a n t r a i n e d i n Germany bakes whole grain rye bread and has a selection of buns, including sunflower and pumpkin seed varieties, as well as real pretzels. It ’s off Hannam Ogeori, close to where Hannam Supermarket used to be. Take bus No. 402 from Gangnam or Sinsa Station and get off after the river. (02) 794-1142.

travel & culture SEOUL 75

special report iv

CLIMBING OVER THE LANGUAGE BARRIER

Wide variety of adult Korean language school options for foreigners makes taking on your host language a viable option Written by Patricia Park Photographs courtesy of Yonsei KLI and Ganada Language Institute

n a language with no fewer than six ways to say “uncle,” where the word for “you” can be a term of endearment or a provocation to fighting, and verbs are conjugated at the end of the sentence, Korean might at first seem overwhelming to learn, let alone master. But thanks to the plethora of eohakdang , or language schools, in Seoul, it has never been an easier time for non-native speakers to study. You just might find classes to be the perfect entree into the culture. To help navigate the many eohakdang , SEOUL Magazine has compiled a round-up of some of the more popular back-to-school options, from daily, university-style classes and evening sessions to one-on-one tutoring.

Yonsei University’s Korean Language Institute (KLI) What: Considered the oldest and largest eohakdang , KLI is tucked away in the mountains of Yonsei’s upper campus. Daily grammar drills are its strength, but dated, non sequitur lesson plans are serious drawbacks to consider. KLI is best suited for those wishing to matriculate at a Korean university or to study academic Korean. KLI offers levels 1—6, with ten-week semesters. Morning or afternoon classes are 20 hours a week; evening classes are nine hours a week. Where: Sinchon Station, Line 2. Tuition: Regular course: 1,554,000 won; evening: 788,000 won. T. (02) 2123-8550 Website: www.yskli.com

76 SEOUL September 2010

Sogang University’s Korean Language Education Center What: KLEC is increasingly popular for its emphasis on conversation. Students will be drawn to the program’s user-friendly textbooks, cohesive lesson plans, and practical vocabulary lists (beware: daily vocab quizzes). But grammar is glossed over, and instructors are essentially absentee during “conversational free time” among students. Video classes starting at Level 5 highlight both modern-day language usage and culture. KLEC offers levels 1—6, with tenweek semesters. Where: Sinchon Station, Line 2. Tuition: Regular morning & afternoon: 1,500,000 won (200 hrs); semi-regular (morning, 150 hrs): 1,350,000 won; evening (60 hrs): 640,000 won T. (02) 705-8088 Website: http://klec.sogang.ac.kr

Ganada Language Institute What: Ganada is a non-university program most popular for its private tutoring. Group classes run on one-month semesters, with two months to complete each level (from 1 to 6). Tailored training courses for companies are also on offer. Best suited for short-term residents or working professionals, including business executives looking for one-on-one study. An added bonus is its location in artsy Hongdae. Morning classes meet 12 hours a week, while private sessions are arranged according to the student’s schedule. Where: Hongik University Station, Line 2. Tuition: Classes: 390,000 won/month; private courses: 36,000 won/hour. T. (02) 332-6003 Website: www.ganadakorean.com

Ewha Womans University Language Center What: Ewha may be the country’s oldest and most prestigious all-women’s school, but ELC’s co-ed program is relatively new among the university eohakdang . ELC offers levels 1—6, with ten-week semesters. Morning classes are 7.2 or twenty hours per week; evening classes are 7.2 hours per week. Short-term and special programs also available. Where: Ewha Womans University Station, Line 2 Tuition: Intensive course: 1,340,000 won, Regular: 560,000 won. T. (02) 3277-3682 Website: http://elc.ewha.ac.kr/korean

Seoul Global Village Center What: Government-run organization offering a variety of services to foreigners, including free language courses at the beginner, intermediate, and advanced levels, with 12-week semesters. Weekday classes meet three hours per week. Weekend classes also available. Where: Locations in Yeonnam, Yeoksam, Seorae, Ichon, Itaewon, Yeongdeungpo, and Seongbuk. Tuition: Free! T. (02) 2075-4138 Website: http://global.seoul.go.kr

YBM’s Korean Language Institute What: Best known as a chain ESL hagwon , YBM also offers Korean courses using Konkuk and Yonsei University textbooks. Levels 1—6; minimum of three months to complete each level. Afternoon classes are 10 hours per week, evenings are five hours per week, and Saturday classes run three hours. Where: Two locations—Jongno 3-ga Station, Lines 1, 3 and 5, and Gangnam Station, Line 2. Tuition: Afternoon classes: 226,000 won, Evening: 115,000 won, Saturday: 105,000 won. Private lessons are negotiable. YBM teachers eligible for discount. T. (02) 2278-0509 Website: http://kli.ybmedu.com

Korean Literature Translation Institute’s Korea Translation Academy What: A government-run agency that trains aspiring translators in a variety of target languages. Best suited for those with a competency in Korean and an interest in literature who wish to hone their reading and writing skills. Special Course meets two hours per week for 24 weeks; Intensive Course is 13 hours per week for 28 weeks. Rigorous application process. Where: Samseong Station, Line 2. Tuition: 100,000 won application fee; classes free. T. (02) 6919-7700 Website: http://klti.org

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UNESCO BONANZA FOR SEOUL, HAHOE AND YANGDONG applying to the network aim to promote local creativity and are committed to UNESCO’s aim of preserving and promoting cultural diversity. Seoul’s efforts to be designated a UNESCO City of Design were part of the capital’s plans to build itself into a global design leader by gaining international recognition for its various design projects and raising its “brand value.”

Invaluable tradition Two of the leading remaining “clan villages” in Korea, Hahoe and Yangdong were founded in the 14th and 15th centuries. Established in accordance with geomantic principles of the time, they are situated with their backs to forested mountains and open fields and with rivers in front of them. As well as preserving architectural manifestations of the Joseon era’s class structure, with aristocratic manors and thatched commoners’ houses, the villages are home to several other designated national treasures and properties such as books, paintings, and the byeolsingut mask dance. Both villages are located in Gyeongsangbuk-do (North Gyeongsang Province) and are well worth a weekend trip from Seoul.

Traditional architecture in Yangdong Village

A bend in the river: Hahoe Village

GETTING There Yangdong Village The quickest route is to take the KTX to Dongdaegu Station (a two hour trip), followed by either a bus ride or a connecting train to Gyeongju (another hour). To get to Yangdong Village, take bus No. 200, 201—208, 212 or 217 from in front of Gyeongju Station. The trip takes about 40 minutes. Hahoe Village Andong can be reached via train or bus. Frequent buses to Andong leave from East Seoul Terminal and take about three hours. Trains to Andong depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station eight times a day. The trip takes four hours. To get to Hahoe Village, take city bus No. 46 headed for Hahoe Village from across from Andong Intercity Bus Terminal. 78 SEOUL September 2010

Seoul’s efforts to promote design received another boost on July 20 when UNESCO appointed it to the worldwide Creative Cities Network as a UNESCO City of Design. The southeastern traditional villages of Hahoe and Yangdong, meanwhile, were registered at the end of July to UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Creative potential As a UNESCO City of Design, Seoul joins Berlin, Buenos Aires, Kobe, Montreal, Nagoya, Shenzhen, and Shanghai. The Creative Cities Network was established in 2004 in order to “promote the social, economic, and cultural development of cities in both the developed and the developing world.” Other categories in the network are City of Literature, City of Film, City of Music, City of Craft and Folk Art, City of Media Arts, and City of Gastronomy. Cities

Other UNESCO-listed Korean sites include... Cultural - Haeinsa Temple Janggyeong Panjeon, the D e p o s i t o r i e s f o r t h e Tr i p i t a k a Ko r e a n a Woodblocks (1995) - Jongmyo Shrine (Seoul; 1995) - Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple (1995) - Changdeokgung Palace Complex (Seoul; 1997; see p. 14) - Hwaseong Fortress (1997; see p. 18) - Gochang, Hwasun, and Ganghwa Dolmen Sites (2000) - Gyeongju Historic Areas (2000) - Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty (2009) Natural - Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes (2007) Many other Korean historical documents have been inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World register, while eight traditional dances, songs, rites and dances are designated by the organization as Intangible Heritage.

pARK JUN mYEONGdONG REmOdELEd Popular beauty chain Park Jun’s Hair Salon, which now has branches all over Seoul, throughout Korea and even overseas, has opened its original Myeong-dong branch again with a brand new remodeled interior. The new salon combines rough, exposed brickwork with natural wood to create a cozy, atmospheric space that is getting enthusiastic reactions from customers so far. Lots of people are taking photos of themselves in the new surroundings, brining extra publicity for Park Jun when the pictures are uploaded to the Internet. To make a reservation at the Myeong-dong branch for yourself, call (02) 319-1415.

“What Makes You See This?” Learn the Answer at Anguk Zen Center

ENGLISH SUBTITLES AT CGV

Zen Practice

Those who are interested in practicing Zen. Can receive special instruction from Zen Master Subul Sunim. Foreigners who haven’t had a chance to learn Korean yet are now able to enjoy the latest new releases of Korean films at four theaters within Seoul. CGV, Korea’s leading multiplex chain, has collaborated with Seoul Metropolitan Government to bring newly released Korean films with English subtitles to a greater number of theaters for the benefit of foreign expats and tourists. You can now watch “The Man from Nowhere” with subtitles at CGV Gangnam, Yongsan, Myeongdong and Guro. Provisional films to be be shown with English subtitles later this autumn include “A Better Tomorrow” (Sep), “Festival” (Oct), “Midnight FM” (Nov) and “Troubleshooter” and “The Yellow Sea” (Dec).

English Lecture

Buddhism and the culture of Buddhism 2:30~4:00 pm every Saturday (except national holidays)

Gahoe-dong Catholic Church The Constitutional Court of Korea

Jaedong Elementary School

Tel. 732-0712 / 744-0772 www.angukzen.org

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news

SEOUL TO HOST WORLD E-GOVERNMENTS ORGANIZATION INAUGURAL GENERAL ASSEMBLY

More info Website: www.we-gov.org

80 SEOUL September 2010

eoul is to welcome mayors and CIOs (chief information officers) from over 50 cities worldwide from September 6 to 8 for the inaugural conference of the World e-Governments Organization of Cities and Local Governments (WeGO). Having just been awarded first place in an expert survey of e-government in 100 cities worldwide, Seoul is well qualified to hold the initial gathering, which takes place under the auspices of the United Nations Project Office on Governance. Mayors, CIOs, and IT experts from more than 50 cities across the globe, including Barcelona, Chengdu, Frankfurt, Mumbai, Nairobi, San Francisco, São Paulo, Tel Aviv, and Vladivostok will make their way to the metropolis for a giant e-government brainstorm. The assembly will discuss ways of achieving green growth utilizing IT technologies,

advancing administrative efficiency and transparency, and attaining shared prosperity by resolving the digital divide between the cities of the world under the theme of “e-sharing for all.” Darrell M. West, Vice President of Governance Studies and Director of the Center for Technology Innovation at the Brookings Institute in Washington, DC, will give the keynote speech. A variety of exhibitions on ICT (information and communications technology) and workshops on GIS (geographic information systems), ubiquitous - City, the Creative Commons License, and the United Nations e-Cities Network will also take place. WeGO pursues sustainable city development based on e-government by promoting collaboration among e-governing cities. Its official launch this September comes after several years of preparation.

FRESH DINING IN SAMCHEONG-DONG

Seoul still leads world in e-government A survey conducted jointly by the E-Governance Institute of the School of Public Affairs and Administration at Rutgers University—Newark and the Global e-Policy e-Government Institute at Sungkyunkwan University (SKKU) in Korea has placed Seoul first in e-government among 100 cities worldwide for the fourth consecutive time. The Korean capital came first in four out of five categories in the survey: privacy, usability, service, content, and citizen participation. It was particularly highly rated for suggestions made and participation by citizens, and for their communication with civil servants. The city hopes to boost its global leadership status by supporting the creation of informationbased systems in developing countries in the future. Seoul scored 84.74 out of a possible 100 points (20 in each of the five categories). In second place was the Czech capital of Prague, followed by Hong Kong, New York, and Singapore. Seoul’s winning score was almost 12 whole points ahead of Prague. In May of this year, Seoul Metropolitan Government’s mobile service for citizens, m. Seoul, was jointly awarded the 2010 Public Sector Award, together with US President Barack Obama's Open Government Initiative, at one of the world’s most prestigious IT events, the World Congress on Information Technology 2010 (WCIT 2010). In recent years, ten overseas cities, including Moscow, Hanoi, Ulaanbaatar, Nairobi, and Barcelona, have signed MOUs with Seoul for exchange and cooperation in e-government.

Dalhangari Freshest Korean Seasonal Ingredients Feeding Your Body and Soul

MONGOLIAN VISIT TO GLOBAL DENTAL CLINIC The last month, Associate Professor B. Amarsaikhan, Dean of the School of Dental Health Sciences at the University of Mongolia, visited Seoul’s Global Dental Clinic and donated a plaque expressing gratitude for donations to Mongolia's Dental School. Global Dental Clinic has also made contributions to a number of churches in support of their charity activities.

Tel. 02-733-7902 9:30am~9:30pm Located in alley in front of Prime Minister's Office ('Chongni Gonggwan' Ap) in Samcheong-dong, 15 mins' walk from Anguk Station, Line 3, Exit 1

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TEACHING THE WORLd TO RUN ITS mETROpOLISES Foreign civil servants visit Seoul to learn tricks of the trade

Seoul Human Resource Development Center hosted officials from 15 sister cities in 13 countries to participate in the “International Program on Urban Environment Policy for Sister City & Friendship City Officials,” held from June 20 to 27. Below are selections from some of the messages left by participants as they headed home.

Leszek Drogosz (Warsaw, Poland) Already, my first day of the International Program on Urban Environment Policy showed that the things happening to me are much exceeding my expectations. What a day it was! On Monday evening, I could not quite believe that the first day of my schedule was already approaching its end. My colleagues and I participated in so many events, we gained so much knowledge about Seoul’s operations and its pro-environmental policy, and tasted so much new-for-us meals of Korean cuisine that I felt like I had been in Seoul for a long time instead of only one day. What a frantic pace!

Natallia Kozintsava (Minsk, Belarus) We had a unique opportunity to learn Seoul Metropolitan Government’s views for combating air pollution by taking measures like promotion of an effective and citizen-friendly public transport system, replacement of public buses with CNG cars, an advanced street cleaning system, encouragement of bicycle commuting and use of green cars, etc. Deterioration of water quality is one of the major challenges that cities face worldwide. We witnessed how Seoul Metropolitan Government fulfills its commitment to provide safe and tasty tap water to the citizens all over Seoul and ensures public trust in tap water with the world’s highest revenue water rate. Seoul’s Green Policy is also worth mentioning as an example of serious commitment to 82 SEOUL September 2010

bringing greenery to every citizen, ensuring their five-minute access to green spaces and thus improving their quality of life.

Alejandro r. Nyssen ocaranza (Mexico City) Now that I am packing to return home, I want to say that I am taking with me the experience of a fascinating culture and the knowledge of a new way of living in harmony with the environment. I leave behind a group of friends in Seoul, with the hope of seeing them again. I must say that being in Seoul has been one of the best experiences of my life.

Helena Maria de Campos Magozo (São Paulo City, Brazil) A warm and sensitive climate permeated the relationship between active, competitive coordinators and the group. The cultural approach and the fact that all the activities were developed in groups strengthened the sense of socialization as well as the exchange of perceptions about them. The sense of security enjoyed in Seoul drew the attention of the representatives. The participants departed Seoul with fond and lasting memories of a city long on hospitality and administrative innovation.

MEET SEOUL

ON-LINE! Experience one of Asia’s top destinations via three of the world’s leading social media sites.

youtube.com/seouldreamseries | facebook.com/hiseoul | flickr.com/seoulkorea

GET A TA S DYNA AMISM TASTE OF KOREEA’S N ARR RIVE... BEEFORE YOU EV VEN travel & culture SEOUL 83

Seoul of zen

Buddha by Nature

You may have an illusion that you can acquire samadhi But you can no more acquire samadhi Than you can dye the sky Though having an illusion that you can. It is a silly idea to try to acquire it separately. How could you have access to the Truth By such a poor magic trick? You must not forget even for a moment That Buddha is by nature in the great samadhi, the true form of you. Not knowing that they themselves are Buddha, Sentient beings try to find Him from outside of themselves. They have forgotten themselves. There is nothing specific to cultivate. Why don't you know it was said as a temporary means by Buddha That wisdom should be cultivated? -After a while in silenceThe flowing stream is revealing wisdom With cicadas chirring in samadhi. Written by Master Subul Sunim of Anguk Zen Center Translated by Boo Ahm (Song Soo-kyong) 84 SEOUL September 2010

Meanwhile, a leisurely man with no mundane work Is dyeing the sky.

Books are available at Kyobo Book, Young Poong Bookstore, Bandi & Luniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Seoul Selection and all good bookstores in Korea.

periplus publishing travel & culture SEOUL 85

Community PAge SIWA Newcomers’ Meeting Sep 2, 10am Seoul Club, Mt. Namsan

For those new to Seoul or to Seoul International Women’s Association. Cost: 8,000 won. See www.siwapage.com.

AustCham Breakfast with Professor Lyn Beazley

Sep 2, 7:30am (for 8am start)— 9:30am Namsan I, Grand Hyatt Hotel

Professor Lyn Beazley is Chief Scientist of Western Australia and is famous for her research on recovery from brain damage. Cost: 40,000/50,000 won (members/ non-members). RSVP by Aug 26 at www.austchamkorea.org or email exec@austchamkorea.org.

Commonwealth Chambers Networking Evening Sep 2, 6:30pm—9pm Waterfall Garden, Grand Hyatt Hotel

Cost: 60,000/70,000 won (members/non-members) and includes a buffet dinner, wine, beer

86 SEOUL September 2010

and soft drinks. RSVP by Aug 27. For more info, see www.austchamkorea.org.

dependencies between the sexes. For more info, see www.kunsthalle. com.

Cafe rencontre, Soiree de bienvenue etc

Cheong-pyong Riverside Beer and Music Festival

Sep 3, 9:30am

The Association des Francophones de Coree (AFC) welcomes new arrivals. Meet at 9am outside the Lycee Francais. AFC also runs a program of visits to various spots around Seoul for newcomers, throughout September and is holding a welcome evening (Soiree de bienvenue) on Sep 11 at 7:30pm, at Stove Restaurant. For more info, contact Tatiana Moya at 010-9109-1973 or tatysuni@ hotmail.com.

Tilman Porschuetz solo exhibition: literally rough cleaning & return Sep 3—13 Platoon Kunsthalle, Nonhyeondong

The mutual interest of Tilman Porschuetz’s works lies in the creation of social order, the interaction between the actors of society, and the exchange and

Cost: 50,000/35,000 won/free adults/children 8—18/children under 8. RSVP by Aug 31. See www.amchamkorea.org.

Kunsthalle Flea Market

Sep 4—5 Riverside Cheong-Pyong Sanjang Hotel

Sep 4, 8pm—midnight Platoon Kunsthalle, Nonhyeondong

Tomatillo 2nd anniversary fiesta

Yeol lecture: Science and Art in Traditional Korean Ceramics

14 hours of unlimited, quality craft-brewed beer featuring Expat bands: On Sparrow Hills, Fully Completely, Solitaire Love Affair, Used Cassettes, Yours, Bedrooms States and various Djs. For more info, see www.kapa.co.kr > KaBrew news.

Sep 4, 10am—Sep 5, 2am Sanjang Hotel, Gapyeong, Gyeonggi Province

Go to Tomatillo’s Facebook page or call (02) 734-0628 for more info.

AMCHAM Labor Day Picnic Sep 4, 11am—3pm Misari Public Park, Mini Soccer Field (Hanam, Gyeonggi-do Province)

Taking place on the first Saturday of every month, Platoon Kunsthalle’s nighttime flea market features live performances, a barbecue and more. For more info, see www.kunsthalle.com.

Sep 7, 10:30am—noon Seminar Room (2nd floor), Seoul Museum of History Culture

A lecture by Carolyn K. Koh Choo. Cost: 10,000 won. To register, send name and contact details to yeol400@paran.com.

Deutscher Club Seoul Stammtisch Sep 7, 7:30pm Barr Bliss, Itaewon

A chance to meet members of the Deutscher Club Seoul and others, while enjoying a drink. RSVP by email to beatrice.hunt@web.de. For more info on this and other events, see www.deutscherclubseoul.de.

rAS Lecture: koreAN SouNdS IN the WorLd ImAgINAtIoN Sep 8, 7:30pm 2nd floor, Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace

A lecture by Korea Foundation Field Research Fellow Professor John Seales. Cost is 5,000 won or free for RAS members.

AWc coffee morNINg Sep 10, 9:30am Seoul Club, Mt. Namsan

The American Women’s Club’s central monthly event—recommended. Cost: 12,000/15,000 won members/nonmembers. See www.awcseoul.org.

oktoBerfeSt At the grANd hILtoN SeouL Sep 10—11

Unlimited draft beer, live German music: don’t miss this popular event on the Seoul beer calendar. Cost: 120,000 won (excl tax and service). For more info, call (02) 2287-7456.

BLedISLoe cuP rugBy mAtch Sep 11, 6pm Millennium Hilton Hotel, Mt. Namsan

Unlimited wine, beer etc. Plus signing up for NAZA 2010-2011 membership. Cost: 50,000 won. For more info, see www.anzakorea. com.

urBAN excerPtS: medItAtIoNS oN the overLooked Sep 11—25 Laughing Tree Gallery, Haebangchon

An exhibition of artwork by Adam Lofbomm to be shown at Haebangchon’s first fine art gallery.

ANzA gLoBAL cAfe

Sep 21, 10am Paris Grill Bar, Grand Hyatt Hotel

This month, representatives from Estee Lauder to show their products, discuss skin care and give a practical demonstration on the new make up looks for the season. Cost: 10,000/15,000 won members/non-members. See www.anzakorea.com.

SIWA fALL 2010 eNrIchmeNt cLASSeS SIgN-uP Sep 15, 9:30am—11:30am Grand Ambassador Hotel

Join SIWA, sign up for SIWA’s wide varieties of courses and tours. For more info, contact Galina Rehbein at 010-6877-1302 or coursecoordinator@siwapage. com.

IrISh ceÍLÍ

Sep 19, 2pm—6pm Daesung Group headquarters, Insa-dong

Dental Clinic “Thank you so much for the work you did on my teeth. I am so happy with how they look and feel. It is so nice to be able to smile without feeling self-conscious. I should have done this a long time ago… You are wonderful…and it was true it didn’t even hurt at all...” From Gina xxx

Enjoy an Irish traditional folk dance festival, with live music and demonstration dancers. Hosted by the Irish Association of Korea, supported by Seoul Metropolitan Government and sponsored by Daesung Group. Cost: free. For more info, contact Sean Conneely at 010-5890-6430 or scssc@ gmail.com. Daesung Group headquarters is at the northern end of Insa-dong, to the west of the main street.

BASS moNthLy meetINg

Sep 28, 10am—noon Seoul Club, Mt. Namsan The British Association of Seoul is hosting its monthly get-together. Catch up with friends and sign up for BASS events. Members and non-members are welcome. Cost: 10,000/14,000 won (members/ non-members). For more info, visit www.britishseoul.com.

BANyAN tree cLuB & SPA SeouL Exclusive club and hotel, recently opened. A great place for a date, but not with your bank manager. See www.banyantree.com.

cLuB dAy

Dentist with the Soft Touch International Dental Clinic English-speaking Dentist

• Opening Hours Mon. ~ Fri. 9:30 a.m.-6:00 p.m. (-9:00 p.m. Once in a week) Sat. 9:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m.

• For appointment, call 02-3472-7528

Last friday of every month, 9pm—5am 21 clubs in Hongdae area

Highly popular monthly club night— pay just 15,000 won for entry into all participating clubs and one free drink.

eNvIroNmeNtAL ProJectS Seoul Environmental Group is looking for environmentally conscious and active people looking to take part in, or initiate, home-based green projects. We are in west and southwest Seoul. Whether it's a roof garden, a beehive or a worm farm, we're interested. E-mail: ianjamesgordon@gmail.com.

2nd Floor Bowon Building, 1337-17, Seocho2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

travel & culture SEOUL 87

exPAt grouPS oN fAceBook Korean Americans in Seoul Nightlife in Seoul—lively page with plenty of members ★Seoul-Circle★Drinking Beer, Networking with International Friends★—self-explanatory Seoul City Improv— improvisational comedy Seoul Flyers Running Club— see also www.seoulflyers.com Seoul Hash House Harriers— ”drinking club with a running problem” (see also www.seoulhash.org) Seoul PMS H3—women’s running/walking/drinking/social club Seoul RMT FC—women’s soccer Seoul Saturday Soccer League (see also seoulsaturdaysoccerleague.com) Seoul Sisters Rugby Football Club—women’s rugby; calendar making Seoul Survivors RFC—men’s rugby Seoul Veggie Club Vegan Korea Vegetarians in Korea

gLoBAL ceNter ANd gLoBAL vILLAge ActIvItIeS

Unlimited calls to 25 countries worldwide for only 9,900 won a month! Just dial 1600-2042 from your mobile phone

Seoul Global Center and the seven local Global Village Centers around Seoul offer a variety of free Korean language classes and other activities. See global.seoul.go.kr.

o’Ngo koreAN cookINg cLASSeS

Mon—Sat (ongoing), 11am— 3pm O’ngo Cooking Studio, Insa-dong

Learn how to make authentic Korean Cuisine in English from a Korean Chef. Menus rotate by day and by request. Contact Daniel Gray at seouleats@gmail.com or 010-6661-7769.

o’Ngo koreAN NIght dININg tour ANd koreA tASte tour "Korean Night Dining" and "Korea Taste" tours give fascinating introduction to Korean food culture. Contact Daniel Gray (details above) for a detailed schedule.

rAS tourS Subject to change: check website at raskb.com.—Bukchon Walking Tour (Sep 4), Donggang River Rafting Tour (Sep 5), Hiking to Seunggasa Temple in Seoul (Sep 11), KTX Train to Busan (Sep 12),

To apply, call 1600-2042 or visit www.16002042.com * Local call charges apply,

according to your mobile phone service provider’s price scheme. September 2010 88 SEOUL

Nepal & Tibet Chuseok Holiday (Sep 16—26; goes ahead if >15 people sign up), Gyeongju— Relics of the Silla Kingdom (Sep 18—19), Soyang Lake (boat) and Gugok Waterfall (Chuncheon) (Sep 19), Chuseok Tour— Bugaksan Fortress Wall Hiking in Seoul (Sep 21), Tongyeong (Chungmu) and Geojedo Island (Sep 25—26). Costs and departure times/locations vary according to tour. Advanced reservation necessary. See the RAS Korea Branch website (above) for more info, or contact Mrs Sue J Bae at (02) 763-9483 or raskb@kornet. net.

SeouL cIgAr AfIcIoNAdo SocIety See p. 73 or seoulcigaraficionadosociety. blogspot.com.

SeouL hIkINg cLuB The foreigner-friendly hiking club that hasn’t missed a single weekend’s hiking since 1998! See www.hikingkorea.com for more details.

SIWA tourS Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (Traditional Section) (Sep 3), Hantaek Botanical Garden (Sep 8), Jaseng Oriental Medicine Hospital & Herbal Dispensary (Sep 9), Korean Temple Dining and Traditional Dance Performance (Sep 17), Ceremony for Confucius and Sages (Sep 28), Cycling along the Hangang River (Sep 29), Rock Climbing Adventure (Sep 30). See www.siwapage.com.

SouNd dAy

Second friday of every month, 8pm—5am 8 clubs in Hongdae area Counterpart to Club Day (see above), aimed at clubbers with more eclectic tastes and a penchant for live music—pay just 15,000 won for entry into all participating clubs and one free drink.

SPort (See ALSo "exPAt grouPS oN fAceBook, ABove) SmileRun - Korea-based running club. See smilerun.com. Seoul Sunday Football League regular fixtures. See www.ssflkorea.com. Seoul Tennis - contact Olivier Mouroux at info@seoultennis.com or visit www.seoultennis.com.

Do you want to share anything with the most influential people in the city: SEOUL magazine’s readers? Send it to writer@ seoulselection.com and we’ll put in our Community Page.

Oriental medicine

dIGESTIVE pROBLEmS

pART 3: CONSTIpATION

dr. rAImuNd royer (raimundroyer@jaseng.co.kr) is Korea’s only “Western” Oriental medical doctor and the medical director of the Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine’s International Clinic (www.jaseng.net).

Daily business, basic routines. Many of us don't stop to think about the degree to which our everyday lives are filled with small habitual activities that are repeated day after day. In fact, most of the patterns we develop throughout our lives—eating habits, gestures, foot movements while driving, sitting postures, sleeping positions—are automatized. We can make ourselves conscious of, and even modify, these habits. However, there is an entire universe of internal processes, the myriad chemical and mechanical procedures, that are hidden from consciousness. When these processes are ticking along well, we are unaware of them. This is one sign of good health.

Signs of underlying dysfunction However, once we involuntarily start to “notice” something in the body, it often means there is a problem. Constipation is one of those signs that could indicate some underlying organic dysfunctions. Constipation results when food moves too slowly through the gastrointestinal tract. About 80 percent of people suffer from constipation at some time during their lives; it is usually diagnosed when bowel movements occur fewer than three times per week for more than three months. Other signs include hard, dry stools or excessive straining during elimination.

Excess and deficiency patterns Constipation is often diet-related. Consistent intake of low-fiber processed foods, especially in combination with low water consumption, leads to sluggish, labored bowel movements. Other causes include inadequate exercise, advanced age, pregnancy, and diseases like irritable bowel syndrome. Certain medications, like painkillers, antidepressants, or iron supplements, can also put a strain on the digestive system. On the extreme side are more serious diseases, such as colon cancer, of which constipation can be a symptom. On the other hand, constipation can sometimes have an unknown cause. Some experience it despite having a healthy diet, drinking plenty of fluids, and being free of underlying disorders. Their condition is attributed vaguely to “underactive bowels.”

Qi regulation Oriental medicine can provide relief to constipation sufferers, particularly those with “underactive bowels.” Constipation can be caused by a number of patterns of disharmony, which include both excess patterns and deficiency patterns. Excess patterns include excessive heat in the stomach or large intestines, along with qi stagnation. When exterior heat penetrates into the interior, it can affect the large intestine, with symptoms of fever, thirst, and sweating. In this case, medicinal herbs are prescribed that have a cooling, purgative effect, such as rhubarb root. Constipation due to stagnant qi typically gets worse with stress. In such cases, herbs are given that relax and release the standing qi and restore intestinal function. Deficiency patterns include lack of qi, blood, yin, or yang. When qi is deficient, one does not have the energy to move the bowels and often feels exhausted after trying. A person with this condition has a pale face and tongue and may break into a sweat while defecating. Herbs like Astragalus (hwanggi ) and Codonopsis together with hemp seed oil are often effective as a nourishing, lubricating laxative.

Yin, yang, and the art of bowel maintenance If yang is deficient, the person feels cold and may have lower back pain. In this case, walnuts can work as a lubricating yang tonic. With yin deficiency, the person has small, hard, dry stools, thirst, night sweats, and a red tongue with little or no coating. Rehmannia together with some hemp seed oil might be appropriate for this pattern. Most people with mild constipation do not need laxatives. Certain acupuncture points stimulate intestinal peristalsis when massaged, such as the two spots located about two inches to the left and right of the navel. A diet composed of fiber-rich vegetables, fruits, legumes, and whole grains (e.g., beans, peas, broccoli, wheat bran, and flax seeds) is very important for creating regular bowel movements and easy elimination. Finally, it is important to include enough time in our daily automatized schedules for at least one leisurely bowel movement. travel & culture SEOUL 89

with

In association and

The ďŹ rst ever collaboration between the Korea National Ballet and the Bolshoi Ballet!

Artistic Director Tae-ji Choi | Choreography Yuri Grigorovich | Music Aleksandr Glazounov Set and Costume Simon Virsaladze | Conductor Tae-young Park | Performed by Korean Symphony Orchestra Ticket prices | VVIP 120,000 VIP 100,000 R 70,000 S 50,000 A 30,000 B 10,000 C 5,000 Reservations | SAC TICKET 02-580-1300 Ticket Link 1588-7890 Max Ticket 1544-0113 Auction Ticket 1566-1369 Inquiries | Korea National Ballet 02-587-6181

Organized by

90 SEOUL September 2010

Cooperated with

Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism

Ministry of Culture of Russia