SEOUL (February 2013)

Y

E

O

U

I

D

O

J E O N G W O L D A E B O R E U M F I R E F E S T I VA L

MODEL SUNG HEE KIM M Y E O N G - D O N G VA L E N T I N E ’ S

D AY

E A T S

SHOPPING

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

FEBRUARY 2013 T R A V E L

I

CULTURE

I

MAPS

ISSUE NO. 115

￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

Integrating Korean & Western Medicine To Effectively Treat Back, Joint & Muscle Pain International Clinic Guidance & Interpretation – Multi-lingual Clinic Specialist’s detailed consultation in English Simple process within a day with tailored program Friendly service from beginning to end Dr. Raimund Royer Director of International Clinic Appointed as Honorary Ambassador for Tourism Korea by KTO (Korea Tourism Organization) The International committee board member of Korean Acupuncture & Moxibustion Society

■Herniated disc ■Degenerative disc ■Straightened cervical spine ■Spinal stenosis ■Scoliosis ■Spondylolysis

■Arthritis ■Osteoporosis ■Frozen shoulder ■Tendonitis ■Sprains

www.jaseng.net / www.jaseng.jp / www.jaseng.ru blog.jaseng.net / www.youtube.com/jasenghospital www.facebook.com/jasenghospital EMAIL : enjaseng@jaseng.co.kr

■TMJ dysfunction ■Woman’s disorders ■Pregnancy and postpartum care ■Holistic diet therapy State of art examination equipment (MRI,X-ray,CT)

Your

International School of Choice

KIS CURRENT STUDENTS’ ACADEMIC ACHIEVEMENTS • 2011-12 SAT average score 2,046 (US average 1,500) • 100% College acceptance rate, 94% of students attend schools in the US including Harvard, Columbia, Cornell, Princeton, and Georgetown.

• 6% of students attend schools outside of the US including McGill, Waseda, KAIST, and Yonsei.

• AP (Advanced Placement) student pass rate – KIS (95.3%), US nationwide pass rate (58%) • Pangyo Campus(PK-G12) 82.31.789.0505 | 373-6 Baekhyeon-dong, Bundang-gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do, Korea 463-420 • Seoul Campus(PK-G5) 82.2.561.0509 | 155-1 Gaepo-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, Korea 135-240 • Jeju Campus(G1-G9) 82.64.741.0509 | 11 San, Gueok-ri, Daejung-eup, Seoguipo-si, Jeju-do, Korea 699-931

www.kis.or.kr

“Change your Smile in a single day” IP&I Dental Clinic International Prosthodontics & Implants TM

*CEREC

for computerized tooth restoration in one hour: Inlays, veneers and complete crowns canbe crafted in our clinic to quickly restore a beaming smile.

*Nobel BioCare’s Teeth-in-an-HourTM: Individual teeth can be replaced in one

visit. Bio-friendly materials, advanced design, and precision fit permit the implantation of natural looking teeth.

Prompt, caring service from Sung-Ki Paik, DDS,MSD,Ph.D. and his English-speaking associates

IP&I is a name you can trust.

Somerset Palace Seoul, Suite 306, 85 Susong dong, Jongnogu, Seoul 110-140 Korea Telephone: 82(2)735-1135 Toll free: 080-735-1135 Fax: 82(2)735-1468 E-mail: ipidc@hotmail.com On the web: www.ipidc.co.kr

Contents NO. 115

8 Exploring Seoul

Y

E

O

U

I

D

MODEL SUNG HEE KIM M Y E O N G - D O N G

Yeouido

VA L E N T I N E ’ S

D AY

E A T S

SHOPPING

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

FEBRUARY 2013 T R A V E L

I

CULTURE

I

MAPS

ISSUE NO. 115

10 Seoul Travel Bits 12 travel

Jeju-do’s Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival 16 Special Report

Experiencing the Past 18

History Walks

Museums in Gwanghwamun 19

Seoul Sub→urban

Hangangjin Station ISSN: 1599-9963

February 2013

23

Talk of the town

Hollywood’s Korean Invasion 24

Shopping

Valentine’s Day Shopping right for the one you love

26

Interview

Sung Hee Kim 45

Seoul of zen & Oriental Medicine

Healing your soul and body

• I

C U L T U R E

I

28

Goings-on around town

M A P S

Previews, listings, more

Useful coupons

No-haggle pricing 가격은 정찰제입니다

32

Expat Community Page 35

Maps & guides

To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

For the latest Seoul-related news and events, follow Seoul Selection on Facebook and Twitter! And don’t forget to sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, look up past SEOUL articles and browse through our on-line bookshop at www.seoulselection.com

Seoul Selection

QR codes with gray borders directly link to individual Google Maps.

QR codes with blue borders directly link to individual websites.

@seoulselection T R A V E L

I

C U L T U R E

I

￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

Myeong-dong Gems

www.seoulselection.com

20

Dining & nightlife

T R A V E L

O

J E O N G W O L D A E B O R E U M F I R E F E S T I VA L

M A P S

Cover image IFC Mall See p8.

Photographed by James Kim Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designers Min So-young, Lee Bok-hyun, Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor: Daisy Larios Contributors James Kim Douglas Macdonald Daniel Gray Meagan Mastriani Robert J. Fouser Ben Jackson

| Raimund Royer | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Violet Kim | Jennifer Flinn

Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise — without the written consent of the publishers.

SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (book@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul.

For details, see www.seoulselection.com.

WHERE’S Where to purchase SEOUL 1. Seoul Selection’s off- and on-line bookshops (www.seoulselection.com) 2. Major bookstores such as Kyobo Book Centre, YP Books and Bandi & Luni’s Bookstore 3. The following US military bases: Yongsan, Osan, Camp Humphreys, Camp Casey and Walker Main Store

Where to pick up SEOUL for FREE 1. Branches of SEOUL magazine advertisers: Jaseng hospital of Korean Eastern Medicine, Nanta Theater, Korea International School, Shinhan Bank, W Hotel, SOMERSET PALACE, IP&I, Dental Clinic, Astoria Hotel, Baerlin, Dongguk University International Seon Center, New York Wholistic Care, UBA Breast Clinic, Hair & Joy Hair Salon, Zen Hair Salon, Tartine, Between, Suyedang, Etonne, Concierge, Korea House, Dragon Hill Spa, On the Border, Avenue JUNO 2. Tourist Information Centers in Seoul 3. Hotels & serviced residences: Chosun hotel, THE SHILLA SEOUL, JW Marriott Hotel Seoul, Seokyo Hotel, Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts, Park Hyatt, Imperial Palace Hotel, Banyan Tree, Ritzcarlton Seoul, Lotte City Hotel, Grand Intercontinental Hotel Seoul, Gogung Hotel, Best Western Primier Hotel Kukdo, Lexington Hotel, Hotel Riviera, Grand Ambassador Seoul, Ibis Seoul Ambassador hotel, Incheon Airport Hotel, Koreana Hotel, Hotel Sunbee, Prima Hotel, Hotel Sevilla Incheon Airport, Hillside, Marriott Residence, Vabien Seoul, Vabien Suite, Fraser Place Central Seoul, Fraser Suites, Co-op Residence, Seoul Residence, Oak Wood Premier Coex Center, Stanford Hotel, Koryo Hotel, Best Western Gangnam Hotel, Ellui Hotel, Travellers A Hostel, Fox Hotel 4. Major cafés: All Starbucks and Café Nescafé branches in Korea and major branches of Angel-in-us have copies you can read for free.

SEOUL SELECTION

BOOKSHOP

Largest collection of Korea-related books in English anywhere Friendly staff with tons of travel information

Film and drama DVDs, music CDs available, too

Address B1 Korean Publishers Association B/D 105-2 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea, 110-190 Tel 82-2-734-9565(Bookshop), 82-2-734-9567(Office) Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com

A L S

NR A R

V

NE O TI I

C

nd

ea s e n E ices apa.

J , S tions serv hineseavailable ith deepulture. w c ,C nsla ish uagesanslatorsiety and Tra l g n ng nced tr ean soc for E a l or rie er oth hly expeding of K

T

Hig erstan und

BROCHURES PUBLISHING

Specializing in design of all kinds of English-language publications.

Accurate English copy-writing and editing.

Knowhow based on long experience.

Dozens of titles on all things Korean Specializing in books on

Korean culture, history and literature. Published titles include Korea’s best-rated travel guides.

African Handmade Design Candles

스와지캔들은 세계공정무역기구(WFTO)에 소속되어 있으며 판매 수익금의 일부는 스와질랜드 식수대 사업에 기부 됩니다 동곡상사(주) 스와지캔들은 한국, 일본, 중국(홍콩), 인도네시아, 말레이시아 독점 총판 업체입니다

FEBRUARY AT A GLANCE

SUGGESTED SEOUL ITINERARIES DAY 1

2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] .

Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ].

Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest.

Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Take in the views The 63 Building in Yeouido gives you a bird’s eye view of Seoul. >p8–9

DAY 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ].

Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1].

Experience Jeju’s Fire Festival

Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

The Daeboreum holiday is ocassion to see one of Korea’s most spectacular celebrations. >p12–13 DAY 1

Buy something for your sweetheart

3 days / 2 nights Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2].

Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong.

What better way to celebrate Valentine’s Day than to go shopping? >p24

Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Party like there's no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdam-dong [ Map 9 C1].

Party with the pretty people See and be seen at Cheongdam-dong’s trendy clubs. >p22

DAY 2 Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park.

Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch.

Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ] , including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2].

Go bowling!

Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats.

Bowl in style at Pierrot Strike. >p11

Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].

DAY 3

Get lucky at Kangwon Land Korea’s largest casino—and the only one open to Koreans themselves—is in the heart of one of Korea's most ruggedly beautiful regions >p15

See Ben Folds Five The recently reunited American rock trio returns to Korea. >p28

Experience Korea’s recent past Get educated at the recently opened National Museum of Korean Contemporary History. >p18

Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3] .

Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3] .

7

korean

seon buddhism Experience it at

Dongguk University International Seon Center

Saturday English Buddhist Talks Meditation Teaching Included February Schedule - Feb 16, Ven. Bullim(Korean) Korean History and Buddhism - Feb 23, Ven. Hyedal (Indian) Cultivation of Loving Kindness in Buddhism

Ganhwa Seon Meditation Meeting Those who are interested in learning Ganhwa Seon meditation can receive special instruction on every Saturday 4pm~6pm.

Those who want to participate in 7 days Intensive Ganhwaseon Retreat are welcome to contact the administration ofďŹ ce.

Contact point (02)2260-3891~2, 010-2576-0315 / ysoo@dgu.edu International Seon Center, Dongguk University

Closed on public holidays

Dongguk University International Seon Center Sofitel Ambassador Hotel

Exit 6 Dongguk Univ. Station

Inner gate

Jangchungdan Park Front gate (vehicle entrance)

Jangchung Gymnasium Hotel Shilla

Come out of Exit 6 of Dongguk University Station (Line 3) and head 50m toward the campus. The International Seon Center is on the third floor of the round theater on the left.

Tel. 02-2260-3891~2 http://seoncenter.dongguk.edu/

Exploring Seoul

YEOUIDO

여의도

THIS FINANCIAL DISTRICT MIXES BUSINESS WITH A LITTLE PLEASURE

W

hen discussing attractions, shopping, things to do, or places to hang out, Yeouido tends to be at the bottom of the list, if on the list at all. This is due to the fact that Yeouido serves as the main business and financial district of Seoul. The draw to Yeouido tends to be seasonal, with people flocking here in the spring to see the cherry blossoms or in the summer to stroll or bike through Yeouido Park. For the most part, however, the island has a reputation of being a bit of a ghost town after work hours and on the weekends. Things are starting to change, though, and with the 63 Building and the new addition of the trendy IFC Mall, Yeouido is a great destination in Seoul this winter season.

63 BUILDING (63 CITY) 63빌딩 (63시티) One of the most well-recognized landmarks along the Hangang River is the 63 Building in Yeouido. When it was built at the height of Korea’s economic boom in 1985, it stood as the tallest building in the world outside of North America, reaching over 240 m high. From the ground level, it is actually 60 stories high, with three floors underground.

There is more to the 63 Building than the fancy golden reflective glass panels that span the outer surface of the building. It is quite a sight to see, especially during the day when the sun brings out its golden glow, but the 63 Building has reasons to shine from the inside as well.

Inside, three attractions are offered: 63 Sea World, 63 IMAX theater, and 63 Wax Museum, all located in the basement levels. Visitors have the option of choosing one of the attractions or purchasing a Big Three ticket (33,000 won) to see them all. If you have the whole afternoon free, these attractions are the perfect way to spend it.

A great option for young visitors, or just animal lovers in general, is 63 Sea World. It was Korea’s first aquarium and holds over 20,000 marine creatures such as tropical fish, stingrays, eels, tortoises, and penguins. Visitors to 63 Sea World can watch sea lion shows as well. The tanks are impressive, and there is even a section where you can see the marine life through the glass floor as you walk along.

The IMAX theater in the 63 Building is another great attraction. The showings run every 50 minutes, and they play documentaries that are meant for the IMAX experience. This

winter season, the 63 IMAX is showing a visually stunning film on the Grand Canyon. For those who have not had a chance to take part in an IMAX experience, the 63 IMAX will not disappoint.

Rounding out the Big Three is the Wax Museum. Here you will be able to find wax replicas of many famous figures, as well as famous Korean celebrities that many international visitors might recognize. For a unique souvenir, try out the Wax-Your-Hand Experience, which allows you to make a wax replica of your hand that you can paint and take home with you.

Of course, while the basement level has a lot to offer, a trip to the 63 Building would not be complete without going up to the top, where one can find 63 SkyArt. After taking the glass elevator up to the 60th floor, visitors are taken through a beautiful art gallery that is host to both domestic and international pieces. The star of 63 SkyArt, however, is the view of Seoul, which can be seen from all sides. Because of its prime location in Yeouido, visitors have arguably the best view of both the Hangang River and Namsan Tower. SkyArt has a café and a souvenir shop as well. If you only have time to do one thing at the 63 Building, it would have to be a visit to the top.

Taking advantage of the spectacular views that the 63 Building offers are restaurants located on the 57th, 58th, and 59th floors. There are Korean and international restaurants to cater to everyone, whether you are there with family, friends, or a special someone.

63 CITY 63시티 Hours: 10am–10pm T. 02-789-5663 www.63.co.kr Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4 or Saetgang Station 샛강역 (Line 9), Exit 3.

9

The golden 63 Building rises from Yeouido, Seoul's financial district.

Atrium, IFC Mall

IFC MALL IFC몰

Written and photographed by James Kim

The newest mall addition in Seoul is the IFC Mall, labeled as the first internationalstyle mall in Korea. There are no department stores here, as one might be accustomed to in Korea. The whole mall is underground and can be accessed from street level or underground via Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Lines 5, 9).

From the outside, all that can be seen is the glass pavilion that provides natural lighting throughout the majority of the mall, particularly its two main atriums.

Although the mall is completely indoors, it gives off a bit of an open-air feel as you browse around.

The mall is made up of three floors. The lowest level is mainly dining, and shoppers can find an impressive food court as well as establishments such as On The Border, Tomatillo, The Steak House, and M-Pub. This level is also home to a CGV, where visitors can take a break from shopping to enjoy the latest flicks.

The retail offerings at the IFC Mall are first class. While there aren’t any highend stores, popular international brands like Zara, Gap, H&M, Lacoste, and Mango can be found here. Two stores that really stand out are Hollister and Banana Republic—the IFC Mall serves as home to both of their flagship stores.

The Hollister store is the first in Korea, and if you are familiar with the store, it is set up exactly as it is in the United States. Banana Republic is another brand with a loyal following, and many expats will be glad to have access to it here in Seoul.

TIP: The giant screen in the IFC Mall’s atrium is actually interactive. Shoppers appear on-screen and can interact with the video animation.

IFC MALL IFC몰 Hours: 10m–10pm T. 02-6137-5000 www.ifcmallseoul.com Entrance, IFC Mall

Seoul seen from the observatory of the 63 Building

Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Exit 1 or Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Lines 5, 9), Exits 3 or 4.

While Yeouido is still known as a district of business and finance, the 63 Building and the IFC Mall give us good reasons to consider the island a new evening or weekend destination this winter.

WHERE TO EAT: 63 Buffet Pavilion: One of the largest buffets in Korea, with over 200 international dishes.

Restaurants on the 57–59th floors: With this view, you can’t go wrong.

IFC Food Court: Wide variety of choices, from gourmet burgers to Vietnamese cuisine.

Taking in the views, 63 Building

Expressions of love, 63 Building

WHERE TO DRINK: M-Pub, IFC Mall: Great selection of local and international beer, on tap and bottled.

Try to catch some live music gigs.

Walking on the Cloud Bar: Enjoy a glass of wine while taking in Seoul's nighttime skyline.

Seoul travel bits Live Band Ssaeng

라이브밴드 쌩

If you believe there is merit in the division of labor, you can still experience the spirit after work by creating an impromptu band at Live Band Ssaeng. Located in the Hongdae area behind the Lotte Cinema complex, Live Band Ssaeng marks a new evolution of Korea’s ubiquitous karaoke room entertainment culture. Visitors can form a hands-on band and play instruments like a guitar, drums, and electric organ, thus taking the party spirit to a level that is hardly experienced in conventional get-togethers. Even novices with little knowledge of these musical instruments can participate in the band, as these instruments are installed with an electronic assistance program that will help players learn how to play their respective instruments on the spot.

Namsan Park

남산공원

Reminiscent of Seoul’s dynastic heritage as a small walled city, a fortress section on Mt. Namsan has recently been restored to its original splendor. The 239-meter-long fortress structure starts across from the Millennium Seoul Hilton and leads up the slope to Namsan Fountain, one of the passageways to the summit. The entire mountain area is known as Namsan Park and brings together tourist attractions, historic sites, and hiking trails. Visitors can gaze upon the stunning city view from the mountaintop. The N Seoul Tower area includes a fence where thousands of padlocks are fastened by young couples and their keys thrown away as a token of their eternal love.

Namsan is the mecca for donkkaseu 돈까스 (pork cutlet) in Korea, with its eateries lining up along the roadside near the cable car station. The dish offered here is affectionately branded “Namsan King Donkkaseu.” The taste is great for a modest price of 5,000-6,000 won.

Get yourself a fancy padlock at a local E-mart store and head up to the tower area with your partner. If you are alone, just believe in the biblical passage that there is a season for everything.

The park’s most popular attraction is the 237 m-tall N Seoul Tower situated on top of the mountain. This multifunctional space has an observatory, restaurants, a museum, a coffee shop, and souvenir shops. Tickets to the observation deck cost 9,000 won for adults and 5,000 won for minors. http://parks.seoul.go.kr Namsan Park can be reached from a number of entry points. To take the cable car, ride the subway to Myeong-dong Station 명동역 (Line 4), emerge from Exit 3, and climb the hilly backstreet past the Pacific Hotel. A stroll along the restored fortress wall from the Hilton will take you to Namsan Public Library and ultimately the tower area within 30 minutes.

Follow your nose and walk around the corner, where you will find the grilled fish diner Teolbogodwoeni 털보고된이. Main items on the menu include mackerel fillet and its cousin cero, to be grilled and served with several vegetable side dishes and a bowl of rice.

Y’z Park is a recent arrival to the area’s shopping and dining landscape and offers a wide range of established fashion brands and well-known restaurant franchises from Korea, Japan, and the US. The shopping center is readily accessible from Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2 or A’REX), Exit 8.

Sitting next to Y’z Park is Lotte Cinema, a leading multiplex chain in Korea. If you are fighting a losing battle with your must-watch list, it’s time to play catch-up and take a pick here. www.livebandssaeng.com [ Map 7 B3]

Theaters

Pierrot Strike 삐에로 스트라이크 T. 02-6007-8008, www.pierrotstrike.co.kr

Leisure Stars Darts Shop has opened its doors in the posh Apgujeong area, offering a wide selection of dart equipment and supplies on sale as well as a chance to hone your skills under the guidance of resident professionals. Its owner also operates a bar, where you can play the game for fun and complimentary appetizers. The dart bar is located some 100m behind CGV Cheongdam Cine City. On the other side of the street, Pierrot Strike has emerged as a hot destination for bowlers seeking style, class, and a new dimension of pleasure from the sport. The bowling alley venue is constructed mostly of well-crafted woodwork and brick, and it imparts a winter resort ambience. The pool/game section is in a place where you can wait for a lane to open up over a beer. Pierrot Strike also has dart boards and some arcade games.

Last but not least, there’s another up-and-coming hot spot, Let’s Play, for those seeking to combine pool, board games and darts in a bar environment. Let’s Play sits catty-corner from the Renaissance Seoul Hotel in Gangnam.

Stars Dart Shop 스타즈 다트샵 T. 02-890-0501, www.dartsshop.kr Stars Dart Shop/Pierrot Strike: [ Map 9 C1], Let’s Play: [ Map 9 C2]

Let’s Play 렛츠플레이 T. 02-6205-0826

Despite multiplex theaters dominating virtually every corner of the metropolis, a number of independent art cinemas are celebrating the New Year in style. Located in the basement floor of the Heunkuk Life Insurance Building near Gwanghwamun, CineCube has two celebrated films on offer—Danish film A Royal Affair and French film Amour, both of which were released in 2012. The Danish period drama deals with a young queen who is married to an insane king and secretly falls in love with her physician and starts a revolution with him. The French film dramatizes the love and tribulations of a couple in their eighties.

Meanwhile, Seoul Art Cinema is going western from Jan 11 to 13 with a special program devoted to famed director Sergio Leone, the “father of Spaghetti westerns.” The downtown theater will screen four of his works—Duck, You Sucker; The Good, the Bad, the Ugly; Once Upon a Time in the West; and Once Upon a Time in America.

CineCube 시네큐브 T. 02-2002-7770 www.icinecube.com [ Map 1 B3]

Seoul Art Cinema 서울아트시네마 T. 02-741-9782 www.cinematheque.seoul.kr [ Map 2 D3]

11 Seollal (Lunar New Year)

설날

Seollal, the first day of the lunar New Year, is one of the most important traditional holidays in Korea and falls on Sunday, February 10 this year. This family-oriented traditional holiday marks a rare occasion for Koreans to engage in a variety of folk games. However, you do not need to feel left out, as Seoul’s royal palaces will remain open and set the folk game stage for visitors during the 3-day holiday period. Namsangol Hanok Village 남산골한옥마을 (T. 022264-4412) operates a year-round program from Tuesday through Saturday that begins at 4pm and provides patrons with opportunities to dress in Korean traditional costume, experience Korean tea culture, and attend a traditional music concert. Tickets cost 50,000 won. Visitors can also only try on Korean traditional costumes and drink Korean tea for a fee of 15,000 won throughout the year. http://hanokmaeul.seoul.go.kr www.royalpalace.go.kr, www.deoksugung.go.kr

Namsan Hanok Village: [ Map 4 D4]

Trickeye Museum 트릭아이미술관

Tr i c k e y e M u s e u m o f f e r s visitors a unique opportunity to actually become a part of the art on display. Using the technique of trompe l’oeil (“deceive the eye” in French), famous works of art have been fabricated to create the optical illusion that the objects in the images on flat surfaces appear threedimensional. Many of them have props or features added to make them more comical. You can enter the picture you used to only watch and become the subject of Renoir’s Dance at Bougival, Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, and a rather chubby replica of Michelangelo’s David. The museum is a place to have some silly juvenile fun, and perhaps learn a little bit about art. Trickeye particularly stands out in the Hongdae neighborhood, which is known for its art scene ranging from vibrant murals and street performers to a slew of interesting exhibits.

Daehangno

대학로

Best known as Seoul’s quintessential theater district, Daehangno is tantamount to an off-Broadway area that plays host to some 40 small- and medium-sized theaters and performing arts venues. As the designation means “collegiate street,” Daehangno harbors its youthful, romantic ambience with class when compared to Sinchon, another signature college district in Seoul that is more entertainment-oriented. A wide variety of stage performances, ranging from plays and musicals to concerts and comedies, are offered throughout the year at a rather affordable cost, featuring both established and up-and-coming artists. Daehangno is extremely popular with young people, as it bustles with fine restaurants, fast food joints, live music cafés, bars, and movie theaters, making it convenient for people to find something to do after enjoying the performing arts. The outdoor stage at nearby Maronnier Park is open at all times.

Across the alleyway from the museum is a Korean eatery that offers bossam 보쌈, steamed pork for wrapping in lettuce, sesame leaf, or cabbage leaf. A combination of seasonings and additives, like a bean paste-based condiment, salted shrimp extract, and garlic toppings, will add extra flavor to suit your taste buds.

On your way to the museum, you may feel tempted to pick up some of the trendiest clothes and other fashion items in town. The street leading to the museum is dotted with dozens of stores run by young entrepreneurs and amateur designers.

Indulge in a cup of coffee and famous cheesecake in a Korean old-timer ambience at Hakrim Coffee Shop 학림다방 (T. 02-742-2877), located across from KFC. Established in 1956, this old-school coffee house has maintained its original dark wooden interior design, dilapidated but authentic in a way, and plays classical music on a turntable, if not a gramophone.

The neighborhood is arguably the hottest destination in town for indie music fans, clubbers, and energetic entertainment seekers. Stick around and check out nearby art galleries, theaters, or cafés in the area until the night kicks into action.

Maad Studio (T. 02-766-8183), a homegrown designer jewelry brand, operates one of its three Seoul shops in this area and offers a wide selection of rings, necklaces, and other accessory items crafted in a neo-classical and minimalist style.

10am–9pm, every day Adults: 13,000 won, Youth: 11,000 won, Children (3 years old and younger): Free T. 02-3144-6300, www.trickeye.com

Check out the old fortress walls at Naksan Park and the nearby Ihwa-dong Mural Village.

[ Map 7 D2]

Sungnyemun Gate

Photograph courtesy of Cultural Herritage Administration

http://daehangno.jongno.go.kr/englishMain.do Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4)

숭례문

After a painstaking multiyear reconstruction effort, Sungnyemun Gate will be unveiled on April, the date the cultural site was destroyed in a fire in 2008. Designated as National Treasure No. 1 of Korea, the historic pagoda-style structure dates back to the 14th century Joseon Dynasty. Sungnyemun Gate served as the official main entrance to Seoul among eight gateways when the capital was a small-walled city in dynastic times. When extant, the gate was the oldest wooden structure in Seoul, even though its base structure, made of granite blocks, survived the arson attack. The gate is located between Seoul Station and Seoul City Plaza in the central area of the capital, with the hallmark 24-hour Namdaemun Market nearby. Namdaemun, meaning “southern gate,” is the old name for Sungnyemun, which literally stands for “Gate of Exalted Ceremonies.”

Try the galchi jorim 갈치조림, beltfish boiled in a spicy soup, in the Galchi Jorim Alley of nearby Namdaemun Market.

One of Seoul’s two great outdoor markets, Namdaemun Market has just about everything under the sun. The area right by the gate is a good place to go camera shopping.

Namdaemun Market is full of unique sights, sounds, and aromas. www.sungnyemun.or.kr (Korean only) Seoul Station 서울역 (Line 1), Exit 4. Walk five minutes

travel

JEONGWOL DAEBOREUM FIRE FESTIVAL (March 8–10) JEJU-DO’S SIGNATURE FESTIVAL IS LINK TO KOREA’S RURAL HERITAGE

Written and photographed by Douglas Macdonald

T

he late afternoon sun had begun to slip behind the hills as I made my way across a large field of dead grass on the western side of Jeju-do. The weather was cool and I could see the faint wisps of my breath catch the last rays of golden light as it escaped into the crisp air above me. I arrived at my destination as evening came and the sky turned from a deep blue to black. A large crowd of people had already arrived.

There was noisy chatter everywhere; men and women of all ages shared food and drinks while children flew kites nearby. The atmosphere was electric, the sense of anticipation high.

I set my camera on a tripod beside a long line of photographers preparing for the big event. It was completely dark now and, as if on cue, a woman in a long, flowing, white robe began to descend a small hill a few meters away, several young boys and girls with lit torches trailing behind her. As they reached the bottom of the hill, hundreds of spectators began to converge around them. Quickly realizing a tripod would be useless, I handed it off to a friend and squeezed my way to the front of the crowd as the woman began to dance and chant her way through the throng of cheering people.

This marked the beginning of Jeju-do’s Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival. Traditionally held on the first full moon of the Lunar New Year to commemorate the ancient agricultural practice of setting fire to farm fields in the winter and thereby readying them for spring by clearing them of dead grass and destructive insects, the festival has evolved over the

years and is now an annual event that attracts thousands of people.

Throughout the day, visitors of all ages come to write down their hopes and prayers for the upcoming year and then attach their messages to the many hay bales placed around the base of Saebyeol Oreum, a small, extinct volcanic vent on the western side of Jeju-do, Korea’s largest island and a place of much natural beauty.

The woman in the robe slid effortlessly, almost ghostlike, through the frenzied crowd and towards a large group of local dignitaries taking part in the torch lighting ceremony. The men, their fiery torches raised in a scene reminiscent of Frankenstein, then marched to the foot of Saebyeol Oreum, where large, wooden structures containing the hale bales and the paper wishes awaited.

Racing ahead of this determined army of men, I crouched down low and positioned myself as close to one of the structures as possible. The bales of hay and the messages attached to them were set on fire and, as fireworks went off overhead, the crackling flames raced upwards, engulfing the entire hill within minutes—a symbolic act representing the burning away of bad luck from the previous year and clearing the path for good luck in the year ahead.

NOTE For more info about the festival, visit http://festival.jeju.go.kr or call T. 064-728-2752.

Local Jeju-do specialties include: Heuk dwaeji—black pig, possibly Jeju’s most famous dish.

Galchi—Galchi (largehead hairtail) is a long, silver fish that is often grilled or boiled in a spicy stew with vegetables.

Jeonbokjuk—Abalone and rice porridge. Abalone alone is one of the most expensive dishes in Jeju, but a bowl of this porridge is only about 8,000 won.

Jeju-do is a major tourist destination; accordingly, it’s blessed with a wide range of accommodation, including: Jeju December Hotel—A well-rated 2 star hotel only 2.3 km from the airport. Decent rooms with free Wi-Fi. (T. 064-745-7800) Ever Hotel Jeju—Another 2 star hotel located close to the airport with Korean-style rooms. (T. 064-742-2911) Korean Air, Asiana, Jin Air, T’way, and Jeju Air all fly to Jeju-do several times a day from Seoul’s Gimpo Airport.

The flight takes about 1 hour. Saebyeoul Oreum, the venue of the festival, is located beside highway 1135, about a 20-minute drive southwest of Jeju City.

To get there, you'll need to rent a car or hire a cab.

Korea Travel Bits

FEBRUARY GETAWAYS Daedunsan Provincial Park

대둔산 도립공원

Defined by its grandiose rock cliffs and lush forest habitats, Mt. Daedunsan (878 m) is called sogeumgang (Little Diamond) in an allegory to the magnificent Diamond Mountains of North Korea. It is quite rare for one mountain to have these two distinctively different features. The area spanning from the summit peak, from Macheondae (“Sky-scraping Plateau”) to Nakjodae (“Sunset Plateau”), offers a magnificent spectacle. There are a number of historic Buddhist temples in the area.

Spread over a vast inland border area between Chungcheongnam-do and Jeollabuk-do provinces, the mountain park can be accessed from many different points.

Each entrance area boasts a variety of distinctive foods based on local specialties, like the ginseng from Geunsam, a northern gateway. There are plenty of Korean restaurants and snack stalls lining each entrance area.

There are a few modest hotels at the bottom of the hill, including Daedunsan Hotel (T. 063-263-1260) near the southern entrance in Wanju.

Cable cars operate from a station behind Daedunsan Hotel. The cable car takes you about 600 m above sea level in six minutes. After getting off the cable car, a 10-minute walk on a steep staircase leads to a hallmark 50-meter-long bridge, which hangs 81 m aboveground.

Muju Deogyusan Resort

무주 덕유산 리조트

Winter vacationers can experience extraordinary thrills from sunrise to sunset and through midnight at Deogyusan Resort. Its winter sports facilities are globally recognized, as it hosted the 1997 Winter Universiade. There are 34 ski/snowboard slopes, including the nation’s longest 6.1 km slope and steepest 60-degree slope. Take the cable car up to the top of the ski slopes. From there, a 20-minute trail takes you to the summit. Ski rentals and winter clothing are available if you aren’t properly equipped. Prices vary between 20,000 won and 40,000 won per day.

T. 063-240-4560, 063-263-9949, 063-263-6621, 041-750-2937 tour.wanju.go.kr (Korean) www.daedunsancablecar.com (Korean) The mountain is accessible from Daejeon and Jeonju. From Daejeon Seobu (West) Bus Terminal, take No. 34 bus to Daedunsan. From Jeonju Intercity Bus Terminal, an intercity bus for Daedunsan departs at 6:40am, 9:00am, 9:40am, 2:20pm, and 3:50pm.

A wide selection of food and entertainment is available: Korean and Western restaurants, pubs, snack bars, karaoke parlors, and café lounges.

The resort has three hotels—the premium Hotel Tirol, the Family Hotel, and the modest Kookmin Hotel. Kookmin offers lots of six-person rooms where visitors sleep on the floor and share a kitchen. It’s also possible to stay in a little village down the road. One can spend the night in an overnight sauna or jjimjilbang there as well.

After you are done with skiing, the resort has a lot more to offer—sledding hills, snowmobile rides, outdoor sauna, amusement parks and a golf driving range. www.deogyusanresort.com (T. 063-322-9000, 063-320-7367) Intercity buses depart from Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal to Muju Bus Terminal at 7:40am, 9:20am, 10:40am, 1:40pm, and 2:35pm. From the back gate of Muju Terminal in front of Jeil Clinic, take the free shuttle bus to Deogyusan Resort. For inquiries, call 063-320-7113.

Photograph courtesy of Wanju-gu Office

Skin Anniversary

스킨 애니버셔리

The beauty industry is no longer about cosmetics—it is now being incorporated into cutting-edge technology. Spread out over a vast tract spanning 15,000 in Paju, north of Seoul, Skin Anniversary is touted as the largest beauty management complex in Asia.

Service begins with a scientific diagnosis of the patrons’ skin condition to determine suitable cure remedies, and a facial massage and other customized services are applied immediately based on the results. Following the skin care is a makeup session combined with hairstyle assistance, which will eventually help patrons achieve the look of Korean celebrities.

Photograph courtesy of Seorak Waterpia

Seorak Waterpia

설악 워터피아

Nestled in scenic Seoraksan Mountain, Seorak Waterpia is a large theme park offering a wide variety of leisure activities and hot springs. Its outdoor saunas not only soothe your soul but command a magnificent view overlooking the snow-covered Alps of Korea. In addition to the usual water park facilities, there is also a theme park with water rafts and body slides. The mineral water they use comes from a nearby location and is rich in sodium, calcium, magnesium, carbonic acid, and sulfuric acid.

There is an in-house buffet restaurant that focuses on vegetables and other ingredients that are good for effective skin management. Paju is full of eateries and cafes, both in the inland areas and along the northern stretch of the Han River.

Its amenities include a trick art museum that displays scores of artwork made with optical illusion techniques. You can combine beauty, dining, culture, and shopping, as Skin Anniversary offers easy access to massive outlets with premium fashion brands as well as Heiri Art Village.

Paju is within the greater Seoul area, so a day trip is recommended.

T. 031-955-1688 www.skinanniversary.co.kr Admission is 55,000 won, 88,000 won, or 150,000 won, depending on the program.

From Seoul, take bus No. 2200 or No. 200 at Exit 1 of Hapjeong Station 합정역 (Lines 2, 6).

From the Ilsan area, you can catch the same buses from Exit 4 of Daehwa Station 대화역 (Line 3).

Get off at Lotte Premium Outlet. Travel time is about one hour and half an hour, respectively.

The in-house food court and other dining outlets offer standard meals and snacks.

But a simple bus trip to Sokcho's pier market areas offers an eye-opening dining experience.

The in-house condo offers a variety of accommodations, with the rate depending on the number of people sharing the unit. You can also opt to stay in the downtown Sokcho area.

Waterpia’s 18-hole golf course and the many other attractions of Seorak Plaza Land make it an ideal place for families to relax. If you are refreshed enough from the hot springs, try exploring Seoraksan in a quicker but more convenient way, via the cable car. There are many local bus routes going to the cable car station.

T. 033-630-5500, 033-630-5800 www.seorakwaterpia.com (Korean, English) Admission is 38,000 won for adults, 28,000 won for children.

Take a bus at Sokcho Bus Terminal and get off at the Sokcho fire department. Take bus No. 3 or 3-1 across from the fire department and get off at Hanwha Resort (about 15 minutes).

Photograph courtesy of Skin Anniversary

15 Sanjeong Lake

산정호수

Built as a reservoir to supply water for farmland, Sanjeong Lake is the main attraction of Pocheon, located northeast of Seoul. The nearby Mt. Myeongseongsan presents the pleasure of hiking, while promenades along the lake are popular among the couples and vacationers who stay in the nearby hotels and tourist log homes. The lake is also surrounded by an amusement park, swimming pools, snow sledding facilities, and spa amenities, attracting many family visitors.

Local restaurants are renowned for their delicious, wholesome food made with freshwater snails and mushrooms. These meals go perfectly with makgeolli (rice wine); Korea’s finest variety is produced in Pocheon. The Idong Makgeolli brand is known for its savory taste and contains a proper mixture of sweetness, acidity, spice, and bitterness.

The area around the lake is quite entertaining. There is an amusement park with bumper cars, a mini-roller coaster and other rides for children, and carnival games. There are plenty of trails to go hiking and a place to go ice-skating on the lake, as well as a little sculpture park.

Photograph courtesy of Paradise Spa Dogo

Paradise Spa Dogo

파라다이스 도고

Paradise Spa Dogo is a premium spa resort in Asan. The facility includes a pool for water massage treatments, a large pool with year-round warm sulfur hot springs, and a variety of water recreation options. Located in the reigning capital of Korea’s hot springs industry, Paradise Spa's water is the reason for its reputation. There's also a Doctor Fish foot bath, a kids land, and a lap pool for real swimming. Particularly popular is the outdoor event spa, which is run with seasonal themes.

If you want to stay away from conventional lodging facilities like the condos and motels sitting around the lake, log homes and pensions are well equipped with amenities and worth staying in for a more tranquil and romantic environment. www.sjlake.co.kr (Korean only) www.hanwharesort.co.kr www.pcs21.net (Pocheon City, T. 031-538-2114) From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus bound for Pocheon via Uncheon.

Get off at Uncheon Terminal and take a local bus bound for Sanjeong Lake.

While in Asan, you deserve a number of sulfuric pork-based local dishes and energizing varieties of grilled eels. Pigs there pick up sulfur naturally from Asan’s abundant water resources.

A spa visit can also be combined with a trip to one of the many nearby tourist favorites, such as Hyeonchungam Temple, Oeam-ri Folk Village, Onyang Folk Museum, Sinjeongho Lake, and the residence of Maeng Sa-seong, a famous 15th-century literati and prime minister for King Sejong.

An in-house condominium has plenty of rooms of various types and sizes.

The neighborhood is also dotted with modest tourist hotels and lodging facilities.

T. 041-537-7100 www.paradisespa.co.kr Admission is between 26,000 won–50,000 won.

Catch a Mugunghwa train at Yongsan Station 용산역 (Line 1 or Jungang Line). After a 1.5-hr trip, get off at to Dogo Oncheon Station 도고온천역 and take a local bus headed for the spa. An intercity shuttle bus service, departing from Sadang Station 사당역 (Line 4) in Seoul at 8:40am, is available on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. A round-trip ticket costs 14,000 won.

Photograph courtesy of Hanwha Sanjeong Lake Resort

Wolchulsan National Park

월출산국립공원

This national park is filled with special and unique rocky mountain peaks. The mountains rise dramatically from the flat farmlands of Gangjin and Yeongam counties southwest of Gwangju. Its highest peak, Cheonhwangbong, rises 809 m. The sunset to the west is also beautiful beyond description. The name wolchul appropriately means “moonrise.” Tourist attractions include a 52-meter-long suspension bridge that connects two peaks and a sitting Buddha statue designated as a National Treasure.

Often referred to as the holy grail of the Korean palate, this breadbasket region offers you the pleasure of dining like a king. A unique culinary tradition has developed here, as the region is endowed with abundant saltwater, freshwater, and agricultural resources and products, as well as mild weather conditions.

After trekking through rocky terrains and walking on steep suspension staircases, you may feel like soaking in hot springs. Wolchulsan Spa Resort (T. 061-473-6311) is the place to go for visitors who wish to stay overnight and enjoy a sauna at a reasonable cost.

High 1 Resort & Casino

하이원 리조트

High 1 Resort is a popular ski and casino resort and enjoys large numbers of visitors and gamblers throughout the year. Kangwon Land Casino is the only casino in Korea where both Koreans and foreigners are allowed to gamble. The casino is also the largest in Korea, home to 132 table games and 960 video games. There are a mixture of Korean and Western eateries on offer in addition to cafes and convenience stores.

There is a revolving restaurant that offers an incredible panoramic view of the surrounding mountain ranges. The restaurant rotates fully every hour, giving diners a complete view of the beautiful scenery of the region.

Other leisure facilities at the resort include a golf course, sledding slopes, leisure sport facilities, and much more. There is a free cinema in the basement floor of the Kangwon Land Hotel.

The cinema shows a variety of movies—from Korean cinema and current releases to western classics and lower budget films.

In addition to its six affiliate hotels and condos, the nearby base town of Sabuk is full of inns and private homes for lease that would welcome walk-in customers.

T. 02-1588-7789 www.high1.com From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus bound for Taebaek.

Get off at the Gohan bus stop and take a taxi or a shuttle bus to High 1 Resort (a 15-minute ride).

As the host city to the annual F1 Korea Grand Prix tournaments, Yeongam offers a great diversity of accommodations, including the Yeongsanjae Hotel (T. 061-460-0300, www.ysjhotel.com), which consists of luxurious traditional roof-tile residences.

T. 061-473-5210 www.knps.go.kr Nonstop buses leave Seoul Express Bus Terminal for Yeongam three times daily between 8:50am and 4:50pm (a 4-hour 50-minute ride). From Yeongam Terminal, take a local bus or a taxi to Cheonhwangsa Temple. (Bus schedule: runs 5 times a day/ travel time: 10–15min)

Photograph courtesy of Yeongam County Hall

Special Report

Experiencing the Past Seoul City’s walking tours offer insight into capital’s heritage

Written by Jennifer Flinn Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

A

s part of its efforts to improve the infrastructure and resources available to visitors, the city of Seoul has created a unique program where people can reserve a personal volunteer tour guide for more than a dozen sites around the metropolitan area. This free service matches experienced guides with tourists for a oneon-one or small group tour, resulting in an intimate, personalized introduction to the history and culture of some of the most vibrant and interesting parts of the city.

Exploring Bukchon

For more information on Seoul Tourism Organization’s walking tours of Seoul, visit http://dobo.visitseoul.net

One of the most popular tours takes visitors on a relaxed and meandering walk through the streets and alleys of Bukchon, the “north village.” This picturesque area between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung Palaces was once home to the vast estates of important officials and courtiers, making it one of Korea’s most historically important neighborhoods. A colonial period change in zoning laws meant the loss of most of these traditional buildings, as the estates were carved up into smaller plots of land, but it also led to the rise of the area’s characteristic and charming city hanok— small, inward-facing homes that utilize most of the architectural style and features of traditional Korean houses. The area has become a major model for Korea’s historic preservation programs, and the guided tour helps visitors gain a deeper appreciation for the beauty and value of this unique neighborhood.

The guides also know the best places for taking in this beauty, helpfully pointing out the best spots for photography that will highlight the local landscape, including dramatic shots of the sea of tiled roofs from up high, crooked granite staircases carved straight out of the hillside, and delicate decorative elements on the high gates and walls of local homes.

The narrow streets and back alleys of the area form a confusing warren of pathways for many visitors, but the experienced guides can help navigate the complex geography to reveal a wealth of tiny workshops, galleries, and museums hidden away from the main roads, including the work and display spaces of some of Korea’s national treasures and living heritage holders. From embroidery and folk painting to bookmaking, Bukchon is home to some of Korea’s most treasured craft workers, who have converted the hanok into places where their arts can thrive and be introduced to the public in a setting that helps people connect to an older, more traditional way of life.

One of the great pleasures of the tours, though,

is to learn about the areas through the guide’s own experiences. For tourists it can be especially difficult to form human connections that can help the area’s history and culture come alive, but on a recent tour, the guide was able to bring the Bukchon area and Korea’s past to life by sharing her childhood memories of visiting traditional houses and wearing traditional clothing. “We didn’t have ice cream back then, but we used to snap off icicles in the winter and enjoy those,” she recalled, snapping off a small one from a low-hanging branch. As the tour rambled on, she pointed out a tree that was a gathering spot for the neighbors in the summertime, narrated who owned which homes and what had been done to restore them, and told stories about how the neighborhood had changed over the decades.

History remains at Changgyeonggung Palace The personal touch was also the highlight of a tour of Changgyeonggung Palace, where the guide told stories of his youth that helped illuminate more than the palace’s historical importance: how the changes wrought during the colonial and postwar periods tied in with people’s lives, including his own. The palace was originally built to house an overflow of dowager queens and important female royals, but the Japanese colonial authorities walled it off from neighboring Changdeokgung Palace and converted it into a public park, including a zoo. Through the guide’s memories of visiting “Changgyeong Park,” visitors gain a more visceral, real sense of both the palace’s history and the scars of colonialism. “We used to ride a cable car up that hill, there, when I was in university. I have a picture of me and my friends on it,” he recalled as he showed the way through the palace’s extensive gardens, pointing out which structures were original, which were rebuilt, and which had been brought in during the palace’s park days, such as a Chinese pagoda, a memorial stone for royal placentas, and a large greenhouse.

Personalizing the tour can also help people explore their own interests, be it architecture, culture, politics, or history. On request, the guide was able to lead a lively discussion both of the different architectural features and its sometimes violent and scandalous political background. By uniting curious visitors and residents with free, personalized guides, the city of Seoul has created a special program that brings people together from across cultures while also expanding people’s knowledge of Seoul’s most important and beautiful assets.

17

History Walks

Gwanghwamun Plaza, Gwanghwamun Gate and Mt. Bugaksan

MUSEUMS IN GWANGHWAMUN A CRASH COURSE IN KOREAN HISTORY Written by Robert J. Fouser Photographed by Robert Koehler

T

he Gwanghwamun area in the heart of Seoul has been in the news lately. Recently, a committee of scholars stirred a controversy by recommending that the name on the Gwanghwamun Gate be written in Chinese characters instead of hangeul, the indigenous writing system that Koreans are passionately proud of.

The debate highlights the symbolic importance of Gwanghwamun Gate to the Gyeongbokgung Palace that overlooks the plaza in front of it. The gate was first built in 1395, but has been rebuilt and moved a number of times since. The current structure dates from 2010 and is a faithful reconstruction of the original 1395 gate. The view of the gate and Mt. Bugaksan behind it is one of the most picture-perfect in Korea.

But the Gwanghwamun area is more than just a prelude to Gyeongbokgung Palace. In recent years, the area has grown into the densest collection of museums in Korea. A thorough visit of all the museums and galleries in the area would take several days. A one-day tour of the museums and galleries along Gwanghwamun Plaza alone offers a fascinating look at the rise and fall of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) and the spectacular rise of the Republic of Korea after the Japanese colonial period (1910–1945) and the Korean War (1950–1953).

A good place to begin exploring Gwanghwamun is the Ilmin Museum of Art (Tue–Sun, 11am–7pm, www.ilmin.org) in the original Dong-A Ilbo Building near the entrance to Cheonggyecheon Stream. Founded in 1920, the Dong-A Ilbo is one of Korea’s largest and oldest newspapers. The current exhibition entitled Galapagos shows works by six noted contemporary artists and runs until February 17th.

After visiting the museum, walk toward Gwanghwamun Plaza, stopping by the Memorial Monument to Emperor Gojong on the way. King Gojong, who later declared himself emperor in 1897 in a belated attempt to strengthen the Joseon state, came to the throne in 1863, and the monument commemorates the 40th anniversary of his ascension. The plaza offers an interesting look at the varied forms of architecture from the 1960s to the present, which together tell the story of Korea’s stunning economic growth during that period.

Sejong Center

Underneath the middle section of the plaza are exhibitions on the life and work of two of the most important historical figures in Korean history: King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sunsin. The exhibition on King Sejong, the revered king who invented hangeul, offers an excellent opportunity to learn about the writing system and the life of this amazing king. The exhibitions are open Tuesday through Sunday, 10:30am–10:30pm (final admission at 10pm, http://m.sejongstory.or.kr/eng).

Back on the surface, walk across the street and visit Hangeul Maruji Park, a small city park dedicated to hangeul next to the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts. The Sejong Center itself is architecturally interesting and, apart from its wide range of music and theater events, has several galleries and restaurants.

At this point, the cold of winter makes two important museums look inviting. The new National Museum of Korean Contemporary History (Tue– Sun, 9am–6pm, final admission at 5pm, www.much.go.kr/en/mainen.do) is located in one of two buildings built in the early 1960s (the other is the US Embassy), when Korea’s economic growth was just beginning. The museum focuses on the modern history of the Republic of Korea, from the formation of the provisional government in the dark years of Japanese colonial rule to the present.

After seeing the museum, walk to the north end of the plaza and take a closer look at Gwanghwamun Gate. To the left of the gate is the National Palace Museum of Korea (Tue–Fri, 9am–6pm; Sat–Sun, 9am–7pm [final admission one hour before closing], www.gogung.go.kr/fgn/jsp/en/html/ index.jsp), which focuses on the history of court life during the Joseon period and offers insight into the history that preceded the tumultuous 20th century.

All the museums have cafés that offer a nice place for lunch or a break and shops for gifts. Gogungddurak café in the National Palace Museum is noted for its innovative fusion offerings and traditional Korean tea, and its gift shop contains high quality Korean crafts. [ Map 1 ] Follow the blue dotted line.

Statue of King Sejong

Ilmin Museum of Art

Seoul sub→urban

Hangangjin Station

한강진역

Line 6—Station #631 Itaewon reinvents itself as an arts and culture destination.

Written by Charles Usher Photographed by Meagan Mastriani

Cultural Cornerstones If anything can be said to have kick-started this transformation, it was likely the arrival of the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art 삼성미 술관 리움 in 2004. The museum is divided into three sections, the first of which, Museum 1, houses traditional Korean art. Here three dozen national treasures form part of the collection of celadon, paintings, and Buddhist art displayed in galleries that are nearly completely dark save for subtle spotlights illuminating individual vases and scrolls, creating a solemn, almost religious feel. The Leeum’s modern art collection is found in Museum 2, where works by artists little known outside the country mingle with those of international heavyweights like Willem de Kooning, Cindy Sherman, and Damien Hurst. The third section is where visitors will find the Samsung Child Education and Culture Center and the museum’s special exhibitions. Until February 8 the latter is dedicated to Anish Kapoor, three of whose sculptures can also be found in the outdoor sculpture garden.

Yongsan International school of seoul

Grand Hyatt Seoul

Nouveau Neighborhood The rest of Hangangjin is filled with places that are creating an increasingly upscale, increasingly stylish neighborhood. Exhibit A is the fact that Japanese fashion label Comme de Garcons 꼼데가르송 chose to open their Seoul flagship store not in Apgujeong, but here. And down the street from its 400,000 won hoodies is Beaker, which pairs a Williamsburg aesthetic with Cheongdam prices: Band of Outsider flannels, bike accessories, and 33,000 won bottles of artisanal shampoo.

Neighborhood dining options reflect Itaewon’s multicultural vibe and the prevalence of embassies in the area: Brazilian churrascarias, Japanese izakayas, Spanish tapas joints, and plenty more. Bars and cafés are plentiful. One of the latter that particularly stands out is Take Out Drawing 테이크아웃드로잉, where in addition to getting organic, fair-trade coffee, you can view the work of local artists who have received one of the two-month residencies the café offers.

Blue Square Hangangjin Station

Hangangjin’s second cultural cornerstone is the Blue Square 블루스퀘어 performing arts complex. Korea’s largest performing arts hall, it has space for both musicals and concerts as well as cafés, restaurants, and souvenir shops.

Until March 24, you can catch the perennial favorite The Phantom of the Opera.

3

Comme Des Garçons Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art Take Out Drawing

←

O

ne of the most dramatic changes that Seoul has gone through in the past few years has been the transformation of Itaewon from an area of scruff and grime into one of the trendiest, must culturally fresh parts of town. This is particularly true of the areas around its edges, like Hangangjin.

Itaewon Station

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art 삼성미술관 리움 Exit 1 Right on Itaewon-ro-55-gil 이태원로55길 Hours: 10:30am–6pm, closed Mondays, New Year’s Day, Seollal, and Chuseok Admission: Adults–Permanent Exhibition 10,000 won, Special Exhibition 8,000 won, Daypass 14,000 won; Kids, Seniors, Handicapped–Permanent Exhibition 6,000 won, Special Exhibition 5,000 won, Daypass 8,000 won (9,000 won for kids) T. 02-2014-6901, leeum.samsungfoundation.org Blue Square 블루스퀘어 Exit 2 or accessible directly from the station T. 1544-1591 www.bluesquare.kr Take Out Drawing (Hannam Branch) 테이크아웃드로잉(한남동점) Exit 3 Straight on Itaewon-ro 이태원로 Hours: 11am–midnight T. 02-797-3139, www.takeoutdrawing.com

Dining & nightlife

Myeong-dong Gems Dining delights in Seoul’s commercial heart Written and photographed by Daniel Gray

Dessert Café: Dolce la Sera

돌체라세라

Chungmuro Area Dolce la Sera is a dessert café at the historic Astoria Hotel, which is conveniently located in Myeong-dong near Chungmuro Station

충무로역

(Lines 3, 4). It offers an

array of desserts and bistro food for those looking for an afternoon refreshment.

Dolce la Sera has a range of regular café offerings as well as some of their own inventions, such as a black sesame shake and even a red-ginseng frappuccino. Since the weather was cold, I ordered a red-ginseng latte, which was frothy and had a pungent ginseng scent. Surprisingly, the ginseng latte tasted great; it had a hint of sweet vanilla. For my meal I ordered a hearty club sandwich with crisp bacon, an over-easy egg, cheese, fresh lettuce, and tomato. The sandwich was good as well. So on to the desserts. My luscious vanilla bavarois (bavarian cream) came on top of a persimmon and had hundreds of little flecks of vanilla. It tasted like a vanilla-cream still life. Delicious. The star of the desserts was the chocolate mousse made with 70% Valrhona dark chocolate and 100% love. It was light yet had a robust chocolate structure; this is a decadent dessert, so small bites are advised. The desserts, food, and drinks here have a homestyle flair. If you are near the Astoria Hotel, Dolce la Sera is a nice place to tame your sweet tooth. Oh, and the quality desserts are reasonably priced—they start from just 5,000 won.

Arirang: A Great First BBQ Experience in Korea 아리랑

Myeong-dong District Many tourists arrive to Korea late at night and with a hungry belly.

Many might be overwhelmed by the large number of restaurants here. The first meal in a new country is important because it will set expectations for the rest of that person’s stay. For those who are staying over in the Myeong-dong area and craving some barbecue, Arirang comes highly recommended. Located across from the Westin Chosun Hotel, they have English menus and English-speaking servers that will help you cook and show you how to eat Korean barbecue properly. The restaurant prides itself on serving only high-quality hanu beef that is seared over white-hot wood charcoal. They are generous with their side dishes and sauces as well. You’ll get a wonderful array of kimchis and salads as well as fresh leaves and garlic to make your “beef and leaf” wraps, and there is a nice variety soju, beer, and wines to wash it all down. I recommend you start out with their chadol (thinly sliced marbled beef) and follow it up with some marinated beef rib. If you are adventurous, the beef tongue is not a bad option. The place is a bit more upscale, but you won’t be disappointed—it will serve you a great first meal in Korea.

Arirang 아리랑 Cost: 20,000–50,000 won 11:30am–midnight T. 02-752-1342 [ Map 4 A2]

Dolce la Sera 돌체라세라 7:30am–9:30pm (last call) T. 02-2275-7473 Astoria Hotel: Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3, 4), Exit 4.

21

Daily Delights

Here are my suggestions for a great food day in Seoul.

SHOPPING DAY IN DONGDAEMUN

Day 1

Breakfast

Lunch

Waffles and Coffee at Beans Bins If you are going to climb the epic shopping mountain of Dongdaemun, then you have to get a hearty breakfast with lots of coffee. Beans Bins Coffee in the Doota shopping complex is a great first spot. They have freshly made waffles with many different toppings.

Get your sugar and caffeine fix here.

Beans Bins Coffee 빈스빈스커피 Cost: 12,000 won 11am–5am, T. 02-3398-5313 www.beansbins.com Doota: [ Map 5 B1]

Dinner

Mongolian Buuz and Khuushuur at Darkhan The Dongdaemun area is the central point for people from countries like Mongolia, Uzbekistan, and Russia. Darkhan offers authentic Mongolian fare, such as steamed meat dumplings called buuz and fried meatstuffed pastries called khuushuur. Their lamb platter with rice and vegetables is good as well. Try their hot (sour) yogurt tea if you’re feeling brave.

Darkhan 다르칸 Cost: 7,000 won 11am–11pm T. 02-2278-4633

Dessert

Marinated Pork Trotters at Pyeongando-jip Pyeongando-jip is famous for their marinated pig’s feet, and even in winter you’ll often see a line out the door during the dinner rush. The owner, now grandmother, Lee Gyeong-soon is a no-nonsense woman who is all about efficiency and order. You can get platters of sliced pigs feet with kimchi and leaves for wrapping as well as bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes).

Pyeongangdo-jip 평안도집 Cost: 15,000 won a person Noon–11pm, T. 02-2279-9759

Medovnik from Ala Do This is a decadent crumb cake that has layers of icing and honey.

It is delicious with a cup of hot tea. They have many other Uzbek delights as well, such as chocolate cakes and lamb pastries.

Ala Do 알라 도 Cost: 5,000 won 10am–10pm T. 02-2277-9211 [ Map 5 B2]

Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 3

[ Map 5 B2]

Darkhan

GYEONGBUKGUNG AND DEOKSUGUNG

Day 2

Breakfast Red Bean Bread from JSP A white, fluffy steamed bread stuffed with sweet red bean paste is a fine way to start a day of palace trekking. JSP also has great steamed kimchi pork dumplings.

JSP Cost: 1,000 won Right outside of Jongno 3-ga Station 종로3가역 (Lines 1, 3, and 5), Exit 5 [ Map 1 D3]

Pyeongangdo-jip

Lunch

Dinner

Dosirak Lunch at Tongin Market After a visit to Gyeongbukgung Palace, go to Tongin market, get a dosirak lunch box and meal tickets, and then go to the different vendors to pick out a sampling of different dishes (banchan). They have a nice café to get some soup and rice and then have your lunch.

Dosirak Cafe 도시락카페 Cost: 6,000 won Mon–Sat, until 4pm

Kuryeo Samgyetang

Ala Do

Dessert

Samgyetang at Kuryeo Samgyetang Perhaps after visiting Deoksugung and a long day of walking, you will need something a bit hearty. I recommend a filling bowl of chicken and ginseng soup (samgyetang). If you need an extra boost, add abalone or mountain ginseng.

Kuryeo Samgyetang 고려삼계탕 Cost: 19,000–35,000 won 10am–10pm T. 02-752-9376 [ Map 1 B4]

Barlin You might need a beer after your day, so get a large frosty mug of Krombacher at Barlin. They have authentic German sausages and other German dishes as well.

Barlin 베어린 Cost: 10,000 won 11:30am–11:30pm T. 02-722-5622 www.baerlin.co.kr Somerset Palace Seoul: [ Map 1 C2]

Tongin Market [ Map 1 B2]

Recommended Eats Two Hands Burger

Manseok Dakhanmari

Zen Hideaway

(Haebangchon)

(Insa-dong)

(Myeong-dong)

Yep, this place located in Haebangchon is aptly named—you do need two hands to eat these burgers.

The burger juice, condiments, and maybe egg yolk (or chili) ooze out as you take a bite. The patties are chargrilled, the buns are whole wheat and toasted, and the fillings are piled on just right. I recommend their mushroom burger, which has plenty of mushrooms and cheese, and their Le Vert Burger, which has bacon, egg, cheese, and veggies. Their seasoned fries make a nice accompaniment (that and a beer).

It’s all about the broth. The rich chicken broth here in Insa-dong is flavored with oriental herbs, mung beans, and spices, and it is then used to cook a whole chicken.

One of the best parts about this place is the sauce you make to dip the chicken in. You get fresh greens and add mustard, soy sauce, and chili paste to your liking. Their dakgalbi and dakbokkeum tang is spicy and quite good as well. You can even add noodles or dumplings after you eat the meat so that you don’t waste any of that wonderful broth.

This stylish restaurant in Myeong-dong has a calming energy in a wide-open atmosphere. The interior has Japanese lines but a Thai edge. The food is an interesting blend of Asian and Italian. Here you can get pastas with a spicy seafood sauce or a salmon salad with peanut sauce that is unfortunately named “salmonera.” Their crisp Roma-style pizzas are an excellent choice, as are their ricotta chicken and broccoli and apple Gorgonzola. If Thai is more your thing, they have noodle dishes and soups. If you prefer Japanese, they have sushi. It is a place that will impress whomever you bring here.

Two Hands Burger 투핸즈버거

Manseok Dakhanmari 만석닭한마리

Zen Hideaway 젠 하이드어웨이

Cost: 10,000 won a burger 11am–11pm T. 02-6401-7705 [ Map 8 A1]

Cost: 10,000 won a person 11am–10pm (last call) T. 02-723-8286 [ Map 2 C3]

Cost: 15,000 a person 11:30am–9pm (last call) T. 02-776-1461 [ Map 4 C3]

Zen Hideaway

Photograph courtesy of Col.l.age+

Dining & nightlife Cafés, Bars & Clubs

CHEONGDAM-DONG Clubbing with the pretty people

Written by Daisy Larios

Just one mention of its name is apt to send locals into a tizzy of haute couture: Cheongdamdong. The now-infamous Gangnam district’s paragon of opulence is truly a fashionista’s playground. Its wide avenues and snug side streets are lined with global luxury brand names and immaculate art galleries—but nighttime is when posh Gangnamites, aspirational or otherwise, truly come out to play. If the hipsters and suits north of the Hangang have left you longing for something a little more luxurious, make your way south to Cheongdam-dong, home to some of Seoul’s swankiest nightlife hotspots. The newly opened Apgujeong Rodeo Station 압 구정로데오역 on the Bundang Line—a welcome addition to Line 7’s Cheongdam-dong Station 청 담역—has made Cheongdam-dong’s glamour and glitz all the more accessible. Be forewarned, though: Cheongdam-dong’s nightlife is not quite dense enough to support a robust cab scene, so available cabs are far and few between. Rubbing elbows with the charming beauties of Cheongdam-dong also comes at a price: Cover charge into clubs will set you back 20,000– 30,000 won, and expect to pay roughly half of that for a drink. Big city fun, big city prices!

Col.l.age+

꼴라쥬플러스

If Gangnam’s unabashed affluence has you itching for Hongdae’s artsier shores, pay a visit to one of Cheongdam-dong’s latest destinations, Col.l.age+—you might just find your next favorite place. Col.l.age+ escapes definition. Although it bills itself as a dining lounge, it aims to create a cocktail of experiences: it’s a restaurant, art gallery, performance venue, and interactive space all rolled into one. Open for lunch, dinner, and late-night tapas (and of course, drinks) every day of the week save Sunday.

T. 02-549-7700 www.facebook.com/Collageplus915 [ Map 9 C1]

Photographed by Crystal Yun Photograph courtesy of LISTEN Super Lounge

LISTEN Super Lounge

리슨 슈퍼라운지

The latest addition to the Cheongdam-dong’s legion of lounges is LISTEN Super Lounge, an amber- and lavender-tinted haven of hipness that oozes cool. Check out their bimonthly Coup de Etat party, a veritable global gathering of beautiful people. Dress to impress—and keep an eye out for local celebrities in their VIP section. Open weekends til late (or rather, til morning).

T. 02-540-3386 www.facebook.com/ListenSuperLounge [ Map 9 C1]

Club Ellui

클럽 엘루이

Sitting underneath the Ellui Hotel, this club’s location is nearly as exclusive as its clientele—it’s nestled in the northeast corner of Cheongdam-dong near the Hangang River’s Yeongdong Bridge.With its confetti-littered dancefloors, impressive light system, and world-class DJs, Ellui is Cheongdam-dong’s go-to club. Call ahead to reserve bottle service amidst their dizzying array of VIP table and room options, otherwise you’ll want to get there early if you want to snag a locker to stash your coat in.

T. 02-1577-9669 www.ellui.net [ Map 9 D1]

Authentic German Cuisine in the Heart of Seoul

www.baerlin.co.kr e-mail info@baerlin.co.kr Tel 02 722 5622 Fax 02 722 5623 Opening hours (Closed on Sunday) Mon.~ Fri. 11:30 a.m.~11:30 p.m. Sat. 11:30 a.m.~11:00 p.m.

N°85 Susong-dong Jongno-Gu Seoul Korea Somerset Palace 1F, Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6

Cloud Atlas, Bae Doo-na

Talk of the town

HOLLYWOOD’s Korean Invasion

Korean actors, directors make their presence felt on the global stage in a big way Written by Robert Koehler

Is Korean talent finally getting its Hollywood due?

As actress Bae Doo-na garners praise for her starring role as Sonmi-451 in the Wachowskis’ blockbuster “Cloud Atlas,” journalists ask if 2013 might be Korea’s breakout year in Hollywood. With actors Bae and Lee Byung-hun starring in Hollywood productions this year and a troika of Korean directors set to release major US productions, some speculate that a Korean film industry ambition to expand its global reach and an American film industry desperate for new ideas and talent may be coming together in unprecedented ways.

Bae Doo-na leading the way With the dramatic growth of the local Korean film industry since the 1990s and the subsequent development of the socalled “Korean Wave,” observers in both Korea and overseas have long wondered when Korean film talent would cross over to Hollywood. And to be sure, talent has been been crossing over, although this exchange was initially confined to American production companies purchasing the rights to remake successful Korean films using Western directors and actors. Attempts by Korean actors to break through—for instance, Rain’s starring role in the Wachowskis’ “Ninja Assassin” (2009) and Jang Donggun’s “The Warrior’s Way” (2010)—met with limited critical and commercial success.

Veteran actress Bae Doo-na’s “Cloud Atlas,” however, may mark a turning point. Bae not only stars as part of an ensemble cast that includes Tom Hanks, Halle Berry, Hugh Grant, Susan Sarandon and Jim Sturgess, but she excels in doing so— Entertainment Weekly even called her performance the most impressive of the bunch. American broadcaster CBS, in fact, included Bae on a list of high-profile snubs (Samantha Barks and Amanda Seyfried in “Les Miserables”; Emily Blunt in “Looper”; Judi Dench in “Skyfall” and "The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel", etc.) for Best Supporting Actress in this year's Oscars.

Bae isn’t the only one going Hollywood, though. Lee Byunghun—who turned in an impressive performance as Storm Shadow in the 2009 blockbuster “G.I. Joe: The Rise of Cobra”— will be reprising his role in the upcoming sequal “G.I. Joe: Retaliation,” set for release in the United States in March. His co-star, Bruce Willis, was apparently impressed with his work, and so brought Lee into “RED 2,” to be released this summer.

Not to be forgotten, Korean actress Park Si-yeon and veteran actor Ahn Sung-ki will be joining Clive Owen and Morgan Freeman for the medieval epic “The Last Knights,” which began filming on Nov 5 of last year.

Korean directors go global It’s not just actors getting the nod. Korean directors—who for years have been garnering critical acclaim for stylish and tightly

directed works like “Oldboy” and “Mother”—are finally getting their chance to work their directorial magic on overseas shores.

This year, three Korean directors will be releasing foreign films. Perhaps the most anticipated is “Stoker,” a Gothic horror directed by Korean horror master Park Chan-wook and produced by Ridley Scott and Michael Costigan. Based on a screenplay written by Prison Break star Wentworth Miller, the film—set to debut on March 1—stars Australian actresses Mia Wasikowska and Nicole Kidman and British actor Matthew Goode. It’s Park’s first English-language film.

Park is joined overseas by his fellow Korean New Wave director Bong Joon-ho, director of “The Host” and “Mother.”

Bong’s latest offering, “Snowpiercer,” is a post-apocalyptic thriller based on the French graphic novel “Le Transperceneige.”

Telling the tale of the last survivors of a future Ice Age who travel the world in a perpetually moving train, the Korean— American—French co-production features an ensemble cast that includes Chris Evans, Jamie Bell, John Hurt, Tilda Swinton, Octavia Spencer, Ed Harris and Korea’s very own Song Kang-ho.

Finally, there’s Kim Ji-woon, he of “A Tale of Two Sisters,” “The Good, the Bad, the Weird” and “I Saw the Devil.” For his US debut, Kim brings us former California governor Arnold Schwarzenegger and “Jackass” star Johnny Knoxville in the action drama “The Last Stand.” Now, one might view any film that stars Schwarzenegger and Knoxville with a degree of skepticism, but it’s also got Harry Dean Stanton, about whom Roger Ebert once said, “no movie featuring either Harry Dean Stanton or M. Emmet Walsh in a supporting role can be altogether bad.” It’s got Peter Stormare, too, about whom this writer would apply the same rule.

Why now?

What’s behind this Korean invasion?

For starters, the Korean and American film industries may be looking towards one another to satisfy their respective needs.

According to the Korean daily Hanguk Gyeongje, “It’s a product of Hollywood, which due to an exhaustion of material is looking in Asia for talent and stories, and the challenge of Korean filmakers, who are looking to expand the horizons of Korean cinema, coming together.”

Perhaps the most important factor, however, has been the growing global respect for Korean film. Talking to the Hanguk Ilbo, Bae Doo-na said the flood of Korean actors and directors heading to Hollywood was “due to people having greater interest in and watching more Korean films since they’ve grown well-known globally.” In an interview with the Chosun Ilbo, Bae revealed that when she asked the Wachowskis how they even knew who she was, they responded with a list of Korean and Japanese films they’d seen her in. Even the poster for Park’s “Stoker”—which proudly reads “From the director of Oldboy”—reveals this growing awareness of Korean film.

Shopping

Valentine’s Day Written by Violet Kim Photographs courtesy of various manufacturers

SHOPPING RIGHT FOR

THE ONE YOU LOVE I

n South Korea, Valentine’s Day is all about wooing the men. Women get their turn on White Day, March 14, but February 14 is about the man. The man may say that all he really wants this winter is you, but a gift can’t hurt.

Here are seven suggestions for showing some material love.

1 Lotion Despite the rising popularity of makeup for men in Seoul, there are still men who will recoil in fear at the thought of moisturizing.

You can buy a boyfriend BB cream, but you can’t make him wear it. Yet in keeping with local tradition (or trends), you can still gift makeup. Just go for a gateway product like Homme Black Perfect Fluid, a skin lotion for men from Hera.

Price: 55,000 won www.hera.co.kr Look for the Hera brand at the Gangnam location of Shinsegae Dept. Store (T. 02-3479-1217, [ Map 9 A2]), Apgujeong location of Hyundai Dept. Store (T. 02-3438-6072, [ Map 9 B1]) or Shinchon location of Hyundai Dept. Store (T. 02-3145-2114, [ Map 6 A2]).

2

External Hard Drive There’s no need to argue for the desirability of 1TB in storage space. But as far as external hard drives go, the White Heart Keith Haring external hard drive from Sarotech is particularly good as a Valentine’s Day gift, thanks to the funky but never twee heart art by Haring.

Price: 155,000 won www.sarotech.com Design emporium 10x10: locations in Dongdaemun Doota [ Map 5 B1] and Myeong-dong Lotte Young Plaza [ Map 4 A2] Check www.10x10.co.kr for more location details.

3

A bag But not just any bag, and certainly no “murse.” This no-fuss canvas-andcowhide creation from Brownbreath comes in beige and grey, and it’s called the Folio Roll Bag for a reason. It can be folded into an envelope-shaped briefcase, or rolled into a cylindrical shape to carry large cylindrical objects (like rolled-up posters).

Price: 38,000 won T. 02-323-2190 www.brownbreath.com Brownbreath has three offline locations. The official location is in Hongdae [ Map 7 C2], with two other stores in Sinsa-dong [ Map 9 B1] and Myeong-dong Lotte Young Plaza [ Map 4 A2] .

25

5 IPhone Accessory Smartphone cases are everywhere, from inexpensive 10,000 won cases off of street vendors to 27,9000 won L’Donovan cases from the Hyundai Department Store.

But despite the variety of options, sometimes there’s one right answer.

Lab.C’s USB cases for the iPhone 5 unite beauty and utility in one sleek, affordable product. Beauty: it comes in subtle shades of pink, blue, and silver and doesn’t add unnecessary bulk. Utility: There’s a handy slot for your transit card and an 8GB USB that fits into the back. The case is also made of makrolon, a hightech, wear-resistant plastic that’s used inside of BMWs. And while this particular model is only an option for iPhone users, Lab.C also makes other makrolon cases for Samsung Galaxy phones.

Price: 40,420 won www.lab-c.co.kr

4

Phone and laptop accessory shop Concierge: local Concierge branches are marked in our Maps & Guides (p40–47).

Check www.concierge.co.kr for more location details.

A pullover There’s nothing more simultaneously loathed and loved than the custom of “couple T-shirts,” where two people in a relationship don the same T-shirt to let the world see that yes, they are indeed together. But getting your significant other a pullover like this Beyond Closet pullover from designer Ko Tae Yong, and then getting one for yourself because it’s so darn cute? That’s not loathsome. That’s just coincidence.

Price: 83,000 won Multi-brand shop A Land, which has its biggest location in Myeong-dong (T. 070-7820-7534, [ Map 4 B3]) and in Hongdae (T. 070-7820-7476, [ Map 7 D2]).

Check www.a-land.co.kr for more location details.

6

7 Cake If you have to get a cake, it might as well be one you baked. Or rather, made.

Dan Hana specializes in customizable cakes. Just show up, pick a base (vanilla, chocolate, or mousse) and then go crazy with the toppings (everything from miniature macaroons and fruit to chocolate and sugar ornaments). Average decorating time: 30 to 60 minutes.

Price: Bases start at 13,000 won and toppings can be anywhere from 100 to 1500 won a piece. www.cakedan.com There are numerous Dan Hana locations around Seoul: check Sookmyung Womens University branch (T. 02-712-9050) and Hongdae branch (T. 02-325-2022, [ Map 7 C2]).

A tumbler This Teascafe tumbler has a stainless steel interior and a plastic exterior. As a tumbler, it’s perfectly serviceable—and also necessary for the typical caffeineaddicted Seoulite. It’s also pretty ugly. The good news is that it’s customizable.

Here’s your chance to show off your artsy side and slip your own handiwork behind the plastic. Or just go full schmaltzy and decorate that thing with photographs of the two of you. You can always remove them later.

Price: 19,000 won Design shop 1300K in Hongdae (T. 02-323-9878, 02-338-1353, [ Map 7 D2]).

Check www.1300k.com for more location details.

Interview

Café 4M 카페포엠 T. 070-8805-4440 www.cafe4m.com [ Map 3 C3]

27

SUNG HEE KIM Breaking barriers, one runway at a time Written by Michael Hurt Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

B

eing a down-to-earth, great conversationalist is the the last thing one might expect of the top Korean fashion model walking down international runways for world-class brands such as Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu. Korean model Sung Hee Kim has become quite prominent in Korea since becoming the first Asian ad campaign model for MiuMiu, and she recently walked shows and did ads for Marc Jacobs in New York City.

One might assume this to be the kind of thing that would go to the head of any young 20-something making their way in the New York City and American fashion world, even if patriotic boosterism hadn’t thrust her to the very forefront of national attention back home in the Land of the Morning Calm.

The one thing to know about models in the Korean fashion world is the fact that the field is heavily populated by students and other civilians who sign with large agencies that manage and farm out their talent. There are few real freelancers signing their own contracts to model as individual free agents. One peculiarity of the Korean modeling world is the large numbers of young female models who are actually fashion model majors and graduates of universities that act as feeders for many of the large agencies. It almost makes perfect sense, given Korea’s emphasis on formal education and certification for nearly all pursuits and occupations. Going the unstructured route, the archetypal American story of being discovered on the street and then shooting one’s way to the top as a force unto oneself is so rare as to be practically socially unfeasible. Korea’s fashion industry still exists within a Confucian culture that places great importance on background in terms of concrete, traceable connections and formal preparation for performing the tasks within the realm of one’s appointed role and station.

“I never really intended to be a model,” Kim admits.

She found herself, somewhat accidentally and partially with the cajoling of friends, thrust into the spotlight of the fashion reality show I Am a Model. Much to her surprise, Kim found herself entering the fashion world and signing with ESteem Models. In the end, Kim’s experience is emblematic of the modeling industry here in Korea, as she entered renowned modeling agency ESteem Models and cut her teeth doing extensive modeling work, especially in Seoul Fashion Week, where she modeled for prominent Korean designers such as KANG KIOK and Cho Sung Kyong.

Kim is full of good humor and hearty belly laughs as she describes her experience in New York as a Korean adjusting to life in the proverbial Big Apple and muses about being asked for her autograph back in Korea by a fashion devotee while in a fast food restaurant. Even more funny to this writer is the amount of time a tall, lithe runway model spends in fast food establishments.

Of particular note is the amount of time she spends talking glowingly of Mr. Pizza.

Appropriately, our interview took place in fashionable coffee shop 4M, in the heart of Seoul’s artistic and retro-trendy neighborhood of Samcheongdong, which Kim noted is one of her favorite neighborhoods to do shopping for unique and trendy items. Also prominent was her preference for frequenting the center of what some people have described as the epicenter of “Gangnam Style,” including the fashionable neighborhoods of GarosuGil and other areas below the Hangang River. “But I’m more of a north-of-the-river kind of girl,” Kim says, highlighting clothing markets in Bukchon and Dongdaemun and speaking highly of the Doota and Migliore department stores as places to truly do Korean fashion shopping.

Even in her own style, Kim keeps it simple and down-to-earth, as many fashion models seem to do.

Her life philosophy is equally simple and direct. When asked about her advice for other Koreans wanting to go out into the world and compete in international territory or markets, her advice was simply, “Don’t think too much, and don’t allow yourself too much fear, it’ll happen!” In her case, she went to New York with the blessing and backing of her modeling agency and just “jumped right in.” Her message seems to be one of not overplanning or overthinking things, but just giving them the good, old-fashioned collegiate try. Of course the question of raw talent is an important one, and it seems that those who are most in possession of it are the first to downplay it and attribute everything to good luck or chance. In that she is so possessed of that special “it” factor that the true levels of her raw skill and talent may not be readily apparent to even her, Korean model Kim Seung-hee stands a very good chance of continuing to break through barriers of firsts and foremosts to enjoy remarkable success as one of the world’s top runway and fashion models. One who just happens to be Korean.

Goings-on around town PATTI SMITH—1ST LIVE IN SEOUL T

PREVIEWS+

Uniqlo AX Feb 2, 7pm 110,000 won T. 02-563-7110 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

The Goddess of Punk comes to Korea for the first time ever. The Chicago-born artist first gained attention in the 1970s when her creative combination of poet lyrics fused with rock lit the musical world alight. In 2011, she was even listed in TIME magazine’s “World’s 100 Most Influential People.” Even today she’s still going strong, releasing her 11th album, Banga, in June 2012.

ADAM LAMBERT—LIVE IN SEOUL T Uniqlo AX Feb 17, 7pm 119,000 won T. 02-407-2589 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

American singer-songwriter Adam Lambert performs for the first time in Korea in February.

The runner-up in the eighth season of American Idol, Lambert’s career has blossomed with the release of his 2012 studio album Trespassing, featuring hits like the title track “Trespassing” and “Never Close Our Eyes.”

The album debuted at No.1 on the Billboard 200 chart, a first for an openly gay artist in the United States.

MY BLOODY VALENTINE—LIVE IN SEOUL T Uniqlo AX Feb 3, 7pm 110,000 won T. 02-332-3277 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

Famous for its part in creating the “shoegazing” sound, My Bloody Valentine has had a long and illustrious history. Formed in Dublin way back in 1983, the band spent a long period being inactive from the early 1990s to 2007. Since then, the band has given several international performances, and it is even— allegedly— preparing to launch a third album. If My Bloody Valentine’s unique blend of digital reverb, pitch bending, and distortion is to your liking—or if you’ve never heard it before and want to find out more—make sure you book tickets to see them at Uniqlo AX (former AX-Korea) on February 3.

THEE OH SEES—FIRST LIVE SHOW IN SEOUL KT&G Sangsang Madang Feb 24, 6:30pm 40,000 won (35,000 won in advance) roundx2.net@gmail.com www.roundx2.net [ Map 7 E2]

The San Francisco-based pop band Thee Oh Sees is holding a concert in Korea for the first time on Feb 24. The band is noted for its prolific album releases as well as its energetic live shows, featuring Dwyer on guitar and vocals, Brigid Dawson on vocals and tambourine, Petey Dammit on bass, and Mike Shoun on drums. In 2007–8, the band released two hit albums under the German Tomlab label.

Thee Oh Sees returned in September 2012 with Putrifiers II, an album combining Castlemania’s fractured pop sensibilities and Carrion Crawler/ The Dream's ferocious rock experimentation.

BEN FOLDS FIVE—THE 1ST LIVE IN SEOUL Uniqlo AX

Feb 24, 6pm

110,000 won

T. 02-563-0595

Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

An alternative rock trio formed in 1993 in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, Ben Folds Five is making its first appearance in Korea with a Feb 24 concert.

Consisting of lead vocalist Ben Folds, bassist Robert Sledge, and percussionist Darren Jessee, the group achieved mainstream success in the alternative, indie, and pop music scenes. The band is best known for the hit single "Brick" from their 1997 album Whatever and Ever Amen, which gained airplay on many mainstream radio stations.

Though disbanded in 2000, the trio reunited in 2008, releasing a new album titled The Sound of the Life of the Mind.

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global T http://ticket.yes24.com/Home/PerfFN/PerfListFN.aspx

MUSEUMS History in Glass: 3000 Years of Glassware from the Mediterranean and West Asia Special Exhibition Gallery, National Museum of Korea Thru Feb 17 Free 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

The Year of the Snake National Folk Museum of Korea Thru Feb 25 Free 02-3704-3114, www.nfm.go.kr [ Map 3 A2]

Taste of Baekje: Food & Cooking Seoul Baekje Museum Thru Feb 24 Free 02-2152-5811 http://baekjemuseum.seoul.go.kr Mongchontoseong Station 몽촌토성 역 (Line 8), Exit 1 or Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3.

Musei Vaticani— Geniuses of the Renaissance Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Mar 31 Adults: 15,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won 02-546-7797 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

The Peranakan World— Cross-cultural Art from Singapore and the Straits National Museum of Korea Mar 19–May 19 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

CLASSICAL MUSIC Yiruma Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 2, 7pm R: 99,000 won, S: 77,000 won, A: 55,000 won, B: 33,000 won 02-530-0900, www.sac.or.kr

Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Steve Barakatt with Band— Sweet Valentine Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 17, 5pm R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won 1577-5266 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Prades Pablo Casals Festival in Korea Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 2, 5pm R: 66,000 won, S: 44,000 won, A: 22,000 won 1544-5142, www.casalsfestival.co.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

MET Opera Bear Hall Thru December, 2013 30,000 won (opera brunch: 50,000 won)

1899-2771 Take Maeul bus No. 1 at Exit 7 of Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), and get off at Hyundai Convention parking lot. The hall is located on the opposite side of the road.

DANCE Korea National Ballet— Romeo and Juliet Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Feb 14–15, 8pm / Feb 16, 3pm, 7:30pm / Feb 17, 3pm R: 80,000 won, S: 60,000 won, A: 40,000 won, B: 20,000 won, C: 10,000 won, D: 5000 won 02-587-6181, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

MUSICALS T The Phantom of the Opera Blue Square Thru Mar 24 VIP: 160,000 won, R: 130,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 70,000 won, B: 50,000 won 1577-3363

www.phantomoftheopera.co.kr Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6).

Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2]

T Rebecca, The Musical LG Arts Center Thru Mar 31 VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won 02-6391-6333 www.lgart.com [ Map 9 C2]

T Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat Charlotte Theater Feb 12–Apr 14 VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 70,000 won www.charlottetheater.co.kr [ Map 10 ] T The Three Musketeers Chungmu Art Hall Feb 20–Apr 21 VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 70,000 won 02-2230-6600, www.cmah.or.kr [ Map 5 D2]

T Arsene Lupin Blue Square Feb 16–May 5 R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 60,000 won. www.bluesquare.kr Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6).

Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2]

THEATER Amy’s View (by David Hare) Myeongdong Theater Feb 15–Mar 10 R: 50,000 won, S: 35,000 won, A: 20,000 won 1644-2003 www.mdtheater.or.kr [ Map 4 B2]

T The Play, Masquerade Dongsoong Art Center Feb 23–Mar 17 R: 50,000 won, S: 35,000 won Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 1

DISCOUNT

RACHAEL YAMAGATA—LIVE IN SEOUL Samsung Hall, Ewha Womans Univ. www.s2enter.com [ Map 6 C1]

Feb 23–24, 7pm

88,000 won

T. 02-3143-5156

American singer-songwriter Rachael Yamagata is coming to Seoul, hoping to expand her fan base here following her notable success of concert tours in Korea last year. This time, she will cater to her younger, more devoted fans, performing at Ewha Womans University’s Samsung Hall on Feb 23 and 24.

Yamagata became the vocalist for the Chicago group Bumpus and spent six years touring, writing, and recording with the band before leaving in 2001 to begin a solo career. Her songs have appeared on numerous television shows and she has collaborated with other musicians, including Jason Mraz, Rhett Miller, Bright Eyes, Ryan Adams, Toots and the Maytals, and Ray Lamontagne.

29

COUPONS

Don’t miss out on our special coupons exclusively for overseas visitors! Enjoy endless savings!

10% BUSINESS TYPE: NAIL

Manicures & Pedicures: 10% discount

2,000 won Discount FILM

STOKER

Dir. PARK Chan-wook

BUSINESS TYPE: SPA 2,000 won discount on entry

10%

Release date: February

BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC

10% discount on all items + Free herbal tea

Park Chan-wook broke out of his comfort zone for his English-language debut Stoker. He is widely known for plumbing the depths of human depravity in the cult classic Oldboy and the vampire tale Thirst. His films definitely have an unsettling factor, but they’re so captivating. Based on a script penned by actor Wentworth Miller (Prison Break), Stoker is complete with some creepy and stark imagery, evoking a feeling of Alfred Hitchcock’s Shadow of a Doubt.

Stoker follows the story of an eccentric teen, India (Mia Wasikowska). After India’s father dies in a car crash, her Uncle Charlie (Matthew Goode), who she never knew existed, comes to live with her and her emotionally unstable mother (Nicole Kidman). Soon after his arrival, she comes to suspect this mysterious, charming man has ulterior motives, but instead of feeling outrage or horror, this friendless girl becomes increasingly infatuated with him.

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC

5% discount on purchases of 50,000 won or more 10% discount on purchases of 100,000 won or more

20%

SUN-JU HAIR DESIGNER @ AVENUE JUNO

BUSINESS TYPE: HAIR 20% off each procedure

5% BUSINESS TYPE: POTTERY

THE LAST STAND

5% off household pottery

Dir. KIM Ji-woon

Release date: Feb 21

10% off accessories

Korean director Kim Ji-woon’s first English-language feature The Last Stand is to be released in Korea on Feb 21, following its US opening last month. Written

by Andrew Knauer, The Last Stand is an action thriller about a US sheriff trying his darndest to stop the leader of a drug cartel from reaching the Mexican border. Former California governor Arnold Schwarzenegger takes the lead for the first time since Terminator 3: Rise of the Machines. Kim has found success with a variety of films and film genres, including A Tale of Two Sisters (horror), The Good, the Bad, the Weird (western), and I Saw the Devil (revenge).

· Product categories: Computers & tablets / Cameras / Mobile phones / Hi-Tech audio & speakers / Accessories / Apple devices

· Period of validity: Jun 1 ~ 30, 2012 · This coupon cannot be used in combination with other promotions. · This coupon cannot be used to purchase accessories made by Apple. www.concierge.co.kr

5%

BOOKSHOP

BUSINESS TYPE: BOOK STORE [See p.5] 5% off all books * 02-734-9539

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: KOREAN TRADITIONAL SNACK

10% discount. *Other discount coupons cannot be used at the same time

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

CONCERTS

KOREAN MUSIC

KOREAN DANCE

T Beach House—Live in Seoul Interpark Art Center Jan 23, 8pm

Arirang, Song of Life Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater Jan 31–Feb 1, 8pm

Korea Fantasy—Four Season National Theater of Korea Mar 21–22, 11am

77,000 won (66,000 won in advance).

02-3445-9650 Hapjeong Station 합정역 (Lines 2, 6), Exits 9 or 10. The hall is located in Mecenatpolis.

10,000 won 02-583-9979, 02-2261-0502 http://sngad.sejongpac.or.kr Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3, 4), Exits 3 & 4. [ Map 4 D4]

20,000 won 02-2280-4114, 4115, www.ntok.go.kr Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 2 or take yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

2013 twenty | one | pilots Live In Seoul Walkerhill Theatre Mar 1, 10pm

Seollal Special National Gugak Center Feb 10–11

Early Bird Ticket Price: 55,000 won (limited quantities only) www.vuent.co.kr Take shuttle bus at Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4

02-580-3300 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Take maeul bus No. Seocho 12 or green bus No. 4429 and get off at the National Gugak Center.

Jane Birkin Universal Arts Center Mar 30

Original Gugak Group: Anaya Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater Feb 16, 7:30pm / Feb 17, 4pm

Admission: TBC 02-2204-1030 Achasan Station 아차산역 (Line 5), Exit 4. Walk 3 minutes.

20,000 won 02-2261-0502 http://sngad.sejongpac.or.kr Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3, 4), Exits 3 & 4. [ Map 4 D4]

KOREAN THEATER T MISO II: Silla, the Land of the Gods Gyeongju Culture EXPO Thru Feb 28, 7:30 pm, Tue–Sun (no show on Mondays) R: 50,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won. 054-740-3800 http://sillamiso.chongdong.com To Gyeongju: KTX trains to Gyeongju depart from Seoul Station (travel time: 3 hrs). To venue: Take bus 10, 18, 100 or 150 from Gyeongju Bus Terminal to Gyeongju World Culture Expo Park. Shuttle bus service is also available from major hotels in the Bomun district.

KOREAN TRADITIONAL CEREMONIES Changing of the Royal Guard at Gyeongbokgung Palace Hongnyemun Gate 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm (except Tuesdays) Free 02-3700-3900 www.royalpalace.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]

Changing of the Royal Guard at Deoksugung (Palace) Daehanmun Gate 11am, 2pm, 3:30pm (except Mondays) Free 02-3707-8414, www.royalguard.or.kr [ Map 1 B4]

Bosingak (Belfry) Daily BellRinging Ceremony Bosingak Belfry 11:30am–12:20pm (except Mondays) Free 02-120, www.royalguard.or.kr [ Map 2 B4]

10% BUSINESS TYPE: RESTAURANT 10% discount on all menu items

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE

10% discount on all seats *Please make a reservation on the official ‘Miso’ website or by phone at least 3 days before the performance. *When payment is made on the spot after reservation, only people who present the coupon can avail themselves of the discount.

5% BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE 5% discount on on-the-door ticket sales

Admission for 10,000 won per person BUSINESS TYPE: EXHIBITION, EXPERIENCE

Valid for adults and children in groups of up to four people, until Feb 28

5%

BUSINESS TYPE: CULINARY TOURS & COOKING CLASSES 10% discount

Goings-on around town • Only shoppers with a coupon will receive discounts.

• Coupons must be presented at the counter before paying for merchandise.

MARIO GIACOMELL—THE BLACK IS WAITING FOR THE WHITE

• Limit: one coupon per person. Multiple coupons cannot be used at the same time.

The Museum of Photography, Seoul Thru Feb 24 Free T. 02-418-1315 www.photomuseum.or.kr Mongchontoseong Station 몽촌토성역 (Line 8), Exit 2. The gallery is located on the 19th floor of Hanmi Tower

• Coupons can only be used in participating stores— see coupon for details.

The Museum of Photography, Seoul is celebrating its 10th anniversary in a special exhibit featuring the late Italian artist Mario Giacomelli (1925–2000). Titled The Black is Waiting for the White. the retrospective show runs till Feb. 24. Giacomelli is often referred to as an artist who pursued poetry-like photography and wrote photo-like poems, too. The exhibit is the domestic premier of Giacomelli’s artwork and displays 220 photos spanning his entire career, as well as publications produced during his lifetime and the Museum's Giacomelli collection. The venue is located in Bangi-dong, southeastern Seoul.

• Discounts are available to foreign tourists only.

Selected Branch Stores: Apgujeong Branch

Mario Giacomelli, Io non ho mani che mi accarezzino il volto(I have no hands caressing my face), Gelatin silver print, 50×40cm, 1961~1963

본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Yongsan Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

*Tax exemption applies to the amount of purchase exceeding KRW 30,000. *A free item is offered to customers depending on the amount of purchase (subject to change). Selected Branch Stores: Insa-dong Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branches of It’s skin: Dongdaemun, Doota, Myeongdong Unesco, Myeongdong Jungang, Edae, Insadong, Jeongnam shopping (Myeongdong), Jongno. 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Avenue Juno Cheongdam Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Gahoi Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Directions: Itaewon, Myeong-dong, Jonggak, Apgujeong, Coex, Sinchon, Yeoksam

LONDON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

CHICAGO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 28, 8pm / Mar 1, 7pm R: 350,000 won, S: 250,000 won, A: 180,000 won, B: 120,000 won, C: 70,000 won T. 02-599-5743 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 6–7, 8pm R: 360,000 won, S: 280,000 won, A: 200,000 won, B: 130,000 won, C: 70,000 won T. 1577-5266 www.clubbalcony.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Following its resounding success here in early 2012, the London Symphony Orchestra (LSO) is returning to Korea for a two-day concert program dated Feb 28 and March 1. Under the skillful baton of Dutch maestro Bernard Haitink, the orchestra will present Benjamin Britten’s "Four Sea” interludes, Mozart’s piano concerto No. 17, and Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7 on the first day. The second-day program will be devoted to Beethoven’s piano concerto No. 2 and Anton Bruckner’s symphony No. 9, featuring the seasoned pianist Maria Joao Pires as a collaborator.

ART ACROSS AMERICA National Museum of Korea Feb 5–May 19 12,000 won T. 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Charles Demuth, Welcome to Our City, 1921, Oil on canvas, 63.8 x 51.1 cm .

Terra Foundation for American Art, Chicago, Daniel J. Terra Collection, 1993.3 Photography©Terra Foundation for American Art, Chicago

Selected Branch Stores: SEOUL SELECTION BOOKSHOP 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Myeong-dong Lotte Department Store Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

The Chicago Symphony Orchestra, a hallmark American orchestra once headed by maestro Daniel Barenboim, will be invited to Korea for two concert engagements on Feb 6 and 7. Its current resident music director Riccardo Muti is set to captivate the local audience with a program that includes Busoni’s suite from Trandot, Brahms’s Symphony No. 2, Verdi's Overture to I Vespri siciliani, Mendolssohn's Symphony No. 4 Italian, and Beethoven's Symphony No. 3 Eroica.

Founded in 1891, the symphony makes its home at Orchestra Hall in Chicago and plays a summer season at the Ravinia Festival.

This exhibition is organized by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, the National Museum of Korea, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Terra Foundation for American Art. This exhibition is made possible by the Terra Foundation for American Art and is supported by an indemnity from the Federal Council on the Arts and Humanities.

A large collection of American paintings and decorative art will travel to Korea for a rare exhibition titled Art Across America. The showcase is designed to offer an in-depth look into America’s fine art tradition, which spans well over 300 years, since precolonial times. Drawn from the collections at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Terra Foundation, the show is due to open at the National Museum of Korea in Seoul on Feb 5 and run until May 19. Afterwards, the exhibition will move to the Daejeon Museum of Art.

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global T http://ticket.yes24.com/Home/PerfFN/PerfListFN.aspx Selected Branch Stores: Sinchon, Seodaemun Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

ART EXHIBITIONS Galapagos Contemporary Art

Reservations: 02-751-1500 Selected Branch Store: Chongdong Theater 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Jeong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongdae theater 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Hongdae Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Ilmin Museum of Art Thru Feb 17 Adults: 2,000 won, Youths: 1,000 won 02-2020-2055, www.ilmin.org [ Map 1 B3]

Sparkling Secrets—Swarovski Special Exhibition

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum Thru Feb 17 Adults: 5,000 won, Youths: 3,000 won, Children: 2,000 won 02-720-0667, www.daelimmuseum.org [ Map 1 B2]

Refined and Tasteful Life of the Joseon Dynasty Korean Traditional Painting

Gallery Hyundai & Dogahun Thru Feb 24 Selected Branch Stores: Insa-dong Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

5,000 won (3,000 won for seniors) 02-2287-3500 www.galleryhyundai.com [ Map 3 A4]

Kang Yiyun Solo Exhibition— Mixed Reality

Media Art

Gallery KONG Feb 13–Mar 3

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Mar 29

Illustrations and Photographs

Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won, Children: 5,000 won 02-501-6976, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

The Korea Foundation Cultural Center Feb 14–Mar 7

Hyundai Card Culture Project: Tim Burton

Free T. 02-2151-6520, www.kf.or.kr [ Map 4 C1]

Seoul Museum of Art Thru Apr 14

Free 02-738-7776, www.gallerykong.com [ Map 3 B1]

The Face of Australia

Van Gogh in Paris: A Dialogue with Modernism Special Exhibition

Films

Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won 02-2124-8973, http://sema.seoul.go.kr [ Map 1 B4]

Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Mar 24

Memories and Romance of Prague

Adults: 15,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won 1588-2618, www.vangogh2.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea Jan 25–Apr 21

Transcending Vision: American Impressionism 1870-1940 in Seoul American Impressionism

Acquisitions of National Gallery in Prague

12,000 won (including Deoksugung Palace entrance fee) 02-2188-6000 www.moca.go.kr [ Map 1 B4]

FESTIVALS Daegwallyeong Snow Festival Daegwallyeong-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun, Gangwon-do Jan 19–Feb 5 Admission depends on program 033-335-3995, www.snowfestival.net Take the bus heading from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Gangneung.

Get off at Hoenggye Bus Terminal (a three-hour ride) and walk 10 minutes.

Yangpyeong Icefish Festival Sumi Village, Yangpyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do Thru Feb 17 Admission depends on program (online registration required) 070-4229-1154, http://winterfestival.kr It takes about an hour to get from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Yangpyeong by bus.

Cheongpyeong Trout Ice Fishing Festival Cheongpyeong-myeon, Gapyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do Thru Feb 17 10,000-12,000 won 031-585-9449, www.cpfestival.net It takes about an hour to get

SPECIAL OLYMPICS WORLD WINTER GAMES Pyeongchang (Alpensia Resort and Yongpyong Resort) & Gangneung (Indoor Ice Rink)

Jan 29–Feb 6

T. 033-339-0000

www.2013sopoc.org

* More details at www.korea4expats.com

The Special Olympics World Winter Games 2013 will take place Jan 29 through Feb 6 in Pyeongchang, the hub of Korea’s winter sports and the venue for the 2018 Winter Olympics. About 3,300 athletes and officials from some 120 countries will compete in seven events such as alpine skiing, cross country skiing, snowboarding, snow shoeing, speed skating, figure skating, and floor hockey. Targeting both children and adults with mental disabilities, the global sporting event has been held every two years since 1968 and alternates between summer and winter editions. The winter version was introduced in 1977. The Games aims to bring a number of important issues to the forefront of international discussion and provides invaluable support for intellectually disabled individuals throughout the world, making a positive impact in countless lives.

NEWS

PINK MARTINI CONCERT

GRIMES CONCERT

Seoul Arts Center Mar 20, 8pm R: 120,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 50,000 won T. 02-599-5743 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Rolling Hall Mar 23 54,000 won (45,000 won in advance) scstickets@gmail.com http://supercolorsuper.com [ Map 7 F1]

Pink Martini, the famed “little orchestra” group from the US, will give a concert in Seoul on March 20. The 12-member band draws inspiration from music from all over the world, thus creating a repertoire that skillfully blends classical, jazz, and old-fashioned pop. Likewise, the band performs its multilingual repertoire on concert stages and with symphony orchestras throughout Europe, Asia, and North America. The Portland-based band is characterized by its signature eclectic, acousticoriented sounds and is often associated with the neoswing trend of the 1990s. While most neo-swing acts favored a combination of jump blues and early rock & roll, the diverse Pink Martini have offered a risk-taking blend of jazz (mainly swing), world music, cabaret, lounge, and classical film music.

THE SCRIPT—LIVE IN SEOUL Uniqlo AX

Mar 27, 8pm

110,000 won

T. 02-332-3277

Toronto native Claire Boucher, who goes by the stage name Grimes, will steal the limelight in a Seoul concert. Her music has been noted for its atypical combination of vocal elements as well as a wide array of influences, ranging from industrial and electronic to pop, hip-hop, R&B, noise rock, and even medieval music. The experimental Grimes draws upon vastly different influences and creates a mystical sound and feel with her haunting vocals.

Grimes’ live show is sonically and visually appealing, with infectious beats, dancers, and improvisation.

Don’t miss her live concert in Korea, where she will be appearing with her new setup, a full band.

JULIO IGLESIAS CONCERT Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

The biggest Irish band since U2 comes to Korea for the first time ever. So much has changed for the Script since they released their first album four years ago. First they broke into Ireland and Britain; then the States; then everywhere from Asia to South Africa.

Along the way, they toured with U2, Take That, and Paul McCartney, sailed through the second-album syndrome that sinks so many bands, played to a 55,000-strong crowd at an historic hometown show in Dublin, amassed almost four million followers on Facebook and 1.5 million on Twitter, and saw their singer star on TV talent show The Voice. Their music has been featured in popular television programs such as 90210, Ghost Whisperer, The Hills, Waterloo Road, East Enders, Made in Chelsea, and The Vampire Diaries.

Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park Apr 9, 8pm R: 160,000 won, S: 120,000 won, A: 90,000 won Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

VIP: 220,000 won, FR: 190,000 won, T. 02-407-2589 www.ehyundai.com

Globally-touted Spanish singer Julio Iglesias is returning to Korea for a concert in April. Blessed with a powerful voice and a gift for communicating with the audience, Iglesias is one of the most popular and enduring figures in the history of Latin music. He has sold over 300 million albums worldwide and remains a popular concert draw and chart-topping recording artist with a long-spanning career. The height of his success was during the 1970s and 1980s. Among his best-known songs are “Hey”, “Non Stop”, “Starry Night”, “Calor”, and “Crazy”. His duets with Willie Nelson, Diana Ross, and Stevie Wonder all topped the charts.

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Cheongpyeong by intercity bus.

www.sangsangmadang.com [ Map 7 E2]

Jeju Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival Saebyeoul Oreum, Jeju Mar 8–10

SpongeBob Square Pants KINTEX Thru Feb 24

Free 064-728-2752 http://festival.jeju.go.kr/contents/ festival/festival.php Korean Air, Asiana, Jin Air, T’way, and Jeju Air all fly to Jeju-do several times a day from Seoul’s Gimpo Airport. The flight takes about 1 hour.

OTHER EVENTS Angry Birds Expereince KINTEX Thru Feb 13 15,000 won–18,000 won angrybirds-world@fixkorea.co.kr www.angrybirds-world.com Daehwa Station 대화역 (Line 3), Exit 3. Transfer to shuttle bus.

Label Market KT&G Sangsang Madang Thru Feb 17 02-330-6200

12,000–16,000 won 031-995-8179 www.happyworld1.co.kr Daehwa Station 대화역 (Line 3), Exit 3. Transfer to shuttle bus.

Korea Grand Sale 2013 Seoul, Busan, Gangwon-do, Jeju and local areas Thru Feb 28 www.koreagrandsale.co.kr

CINEMA Best Korean Movie of 2012 Korean Film Archive Jan 25–Feb 2 Free 02-3153-2075, www.koreafilm.or.kr/cinema DMC Station 디지털미디어시티역 (Line 6), Exit 2. Transfer to bus No. 7711 or 7730 and get off at Sangam Worldcup Park 5-danji Apt.

The 8th Cinematheque Friends Film Festival Cinematheque Thru Feb 24 Adults: 7,000 won, Youths: 6,000 won, Seniors: 5,000 won 02-741-9782 www.cinematheque.seoul.kr [ Map 2 D3]

The Spectacle and the detour of strategy, Guy Debord and Situationist International Media Theater, i-gong Jan 24–Feb 28 Adults: 6,000 won, Youths: 4,000 won 02-337-2870, www.igong.org [ Map 7 B2]

Poster Designer’s Secret Studio Korean Film Archive Thru Apr 28 Free 02-3153-2031, koreafilm.or.kr DMC Station 디지털미디어시티역 (Line 6), Exit 2. Transfer to bus No. 7711 or 7730 and get off at Sangam Worldcup Park 5-danji Apt.

CLUB INFO Dirty Projectors—Live in Seoul V-Hall Jan 27, 7pm 66,000 won 02-332-3277 [ Map 7 D3]

Japandroids—Live in Seoul V-Hall Feb 14, 8pm 40,000 won (35,000 won in advance) http://supercolorsuper.com [ Map 7 D3]

Dirty Beaches Moon Night Feb 16 25,000 won (20,000 won in advance) http://supercolorsuper.com [ Map 8 D3]

W Singles Party (with DJ Bueno Clinic) W Seoul Feb 16, 10pm–4am 40,000 won (35,000 won in advance) 02-2022-0333

www.whotels.com Take shuttle bus at Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4

Stars—Korea Tour V-Hall Feb 22, 9pm 54,000 won (45,000 in advance) http://supercolorsuper.com [ Map 7 D3]

REGULAR EVENTS Korean Traditional Stage, MISO An exemplary show of Korean culture and tradition Chongdong Theater Daily (no performance on Mondays) 4pm, 8pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won (02) 751-1500, www.koreamiso.com [ Map 1 B4]

Saturday Premium Performances The best concert series of traditional Korean performing arts Umyeondang, National Gugak Center Every Saturday, 4pm 10,000 won

(02) 580-3300, www.gugak.go.kr/eng Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Take maeul bus No. Seocho 12or green bus No. 4429.

Nanta A nonverbal performance that showcases the rhythmic energy of Korean culture Jeong-dong [ Map 1 B3] Mon—Sun 5pm, 8pm

Myeong-dong [ Map 4 B2] Mon—Sun 2pm, 5pm, 8pm

Hongdae [ Map 7 D2] Mon—Sun 5pm, 8pm VIP: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, (Myeong-dong seat A: 40,000 won) (02) 739-8288, www.nanta.co.kr/en

Ballerina Who Loved a B-boy Two opposites reconcile as a refined ballerina pursues the raw art of breakdancing.

LotteWorld Art Hall Wed—Fri 8pm / Sat—Sun 3pm, 6pm VIP: 60,000 won, R: 50,000 won (02) 2266-3727,www.showbboy.com [ Map 10 ]

Expat community page

BULLETIN BOARD SIWA ENRICHMENT CLASSES SIGN-UP COFFEE MORNING Jan 23, 10am–noon Renaissance Seoul Hotel SIWA offers over 40 enrichment classes to its members. Become a SIWA member and join SIWA classes and/or interest groups! www.siwapage.com [ Map 9 C2]

FRIDAY ITAEWON INT’L NETWORKING PARTY Every Friday, 7:30pm Naked Bar and Grill in Itaewon Come and mingle with expats and locals. Snacks and tequila are available.

Admission is 5,000 won. www.FriendsInKorea.com [ Map 8 C1]

MASTER CLASS 4 ENTERTAINMENT PROFESSIONALS Jan 26–27, 10am–5pm White Box Theatre This workshop will invite directors and film actors to discuss scene analysis, camera work, directing, and much more.

Admission is 250,000 won. www.facebook.com/ events/102495116572842 Hyochang Park Station 효창공원역 (Line 6), Exit 2.

LINKED SEOUL SEMINAR: GETTING HIRED IN KOREA Jan 26, 11:30am–2:30pm Macaroni Market Expats share their stories on how they got hired in Korea.

HR experts answer your questions on getting hired in Korea. Admission is 35,000 won pre-pay, 45,000 won at the door. www.linkedseoul.org [ Map 8 E2]

RASKB: TEMPLE, ROYAL TOMBS TOUR Jan 27, 9am–6pm Sujongsa, Hongyuneung, Donguneung Located northeast of Seoul, these historic sites offer a glimpse of Korea’s Buddhist tradition and dynastic heritage.

Cost: 45,000 won for members and 54,000 won for nonmembers. Lunch not included. royalasiatickorea@gmail.com www.raskb.com Meet at Yongsan Post Office, Sinyongsan Station 신용산역 (Line 4), Exit 1.

BASS AGM Jan 28, 10am–noon Seoul Club Join us for a glass of bubbly to thank the 2012 BASS Committee and welcome in the 2013 Committee. Admission is free for members and 15,000 won for non-members. webmaster@adventurekorea. com www.britishseoul.com [ Map 5 B2]

SIWA: SKIING TRIP Jan 29, 7:20am–6:30pm Elysian Ski Resort This resort lies on the outskirts of Seoul. A shuttle bus will depart at 7:20am from Dongdaemun Station.

Participants are responsible for their expenses. http://siwapage.com Meet at Dongdaemun Station 동대문역 (Lines 1, 4), Exit 5.

SEOUL HIKING GROUP: MT. SOBAEKSAN Feb 2, 8am Charter bus leaving from Yongsan Station.

Sobaeksan is the third highest peak in Korea. There will be guided hikes at different levels.

Cost: 28,000 won.

T. 010-8259-2215 www.seoulhikinggroup.com Meet at Yongsan Station 용산역 (Line 1), Exit 1.

VOLUNTEERS: ENGLISH FOR UNDERPRIVILEGED CHILDREN Feb 2, 9, 16, 23, 10am–1pm Volunteers are needed for teaching English conversation to elementary school kids from very low-income families. We need a small team comprised of 4–5 English speakers pairing with 2 bilingual Korean members.

T. 010-9333-7687 www.meetup.com/volunteers Met inside of Junggok Station 중 곡역 (Line 7), Exit 2, at 10am.

info@businessnetworkkorea.com www.businessnetworkkorea. com Gasan Digital Complex 가산디지털단지역 (Line 1, 7), Exit 4.

LET’S FEED HOMELESS PEOPLE: WESTERN SEOUL LOCATION Feb 10, 23, 11am–3:30pm Thomas Homeless Shelter We’ll feed roughly 450 to 500 homeless people. Volunteers will have to roll up their sleeves and soak themselves in dirt and sweat. www.meetup.com/volunteers Yeongdeungpo Station 영등포역 (Line 1), Exit 6.

SEOUL PLAYERS: STOP KISS Feb 15, 16, 17, 22, 23, and 24 Whitebox Theatre Sara and Callie are walking through New York City's West Village when they share their first kiss. This leads to a vicious attack by an angry bystander, in which Sara is horribly injured and falls into a coma.

Call for Crew: seoulplayers@ gmail.com ticketing@seoulplayers.com www.seoulplayers.com Hyochang Park Station 효창공원역 (Line 6), Exit 2

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL FEBRUARY CHAPTER MEET Feb 16, 1:30pm–5pm Chosun University (Gwangju) Share your teaching ideas, classroom activities, and language games. It takes about 3 hours to get from Yongsan Station to Gwangju by KTX. www.koreatesol.org Main Building (본관), Room 5210

AMCHAM INAUGURAL BALL 2013: DIAMOND Feb 16, 6:30pm–10pm

AMONG FOREIGNERS, YOU’VE BECOME QUITE WELL-KNOWN FOR YOUR BREAST REDUCTION PROCEDURES. WHAT KIND OF PERSON SHOULD GET A BREAST REDUCTION?

Before surgery

Three monthly after surgery

Having big breasts is not necessarily a problem. However, if you feel discomfort in your daily life due to large breasts, such as shoulder and back pain, you should consider a breast reduction.

WHAT ARE TRENDS IN BREAST PROCEDURES NOWADAYS?

Tel.

02-544-6075 010-9236-6075

Silicon jell has become universal. Just five years ago, more women used saline, but now, most use silicon bags. Of these, many prefer silicon bags in the shape of a tear drop, called “tear drop implants.” I think in two to three years, tear drop implants will become the mainstream of breast augmentation procedures.

Website

www.ubakorea.com

Sinsa Stn. (337)

Nonhyeon Stn. (732)

E-mail

psaintc@hanmail.net 가슴성형에 있어 간혹 구축현상, 비대칭, 보형물이 새는 경우가 발생할 수 있습니다.

INTERNATIONAL SPEED DATING EVENT Feb 3, 6:30pm–9pm

Grand Hyatt Seoul Members: 15,000 won, non-members: 20,000 won. www.anzakorea.com [ Map 8 E1]

Plastic Surgery

성형외과의원

ST. ANDREW’S SOCIETY OF SEOUL: SUPPER Feb 2, 7pm Grand Hyatt Hotel Burns Supper 2013.

Dress code: black tie.

T. 010-3047-3125 http://standrewssocietyofseoul. weebly.com [ Map 8 E1]

ANZA: FEBRUARY GLOBAL CAFÉ: BOBBI BROWN Feb 19, 10am--noon

Grand Hyatt Seoul Dress code: men–-tuxedo,

LET'S FEED HOMELESS PEOPLE: EASTERN SEOUL LOCATION Feb 2, 10:30am–2:30pm Garak Market Homeless Shelter Our task: Cleaning, cooking, serving, doing dishes, garbage disposal, and more dirty jobs.

The shelter’s run by a Catholic Church and the City of Seoul.

T. 010-3385-7200 www.meetup.com/volunteers Meet at Garak Market Station 가락시장역 (Lines 3, 8).

women-evening dress.

Table: 2,750,000 won, Seat: 275,000 won.

T. 02-6201-2200 www.amchamkorea.org [ Map 8 E1]

의료광고심의위원회 심의필 제121009-중-33979호

Dr. Park Sungchul (Plastic Surgery)

Chicken n´ Chips Speed dating events are a new way to meet many new friends and potential partners in a fun and comfortable atmosphere.

Men: 25,000 won, women: 20,000 won. www.friendsinkorea.net [ Map 8 B3]

ADVENTURE KOREA: LUNAR NEW YEAR TRIP Feb 9 Phoenix Park Ski Resort, Gangwon-do Many locals go to their hometowns to spend time with their families. This is perfect for us as there will be fewer people on the slopes.

Cost: 229,000 won. www.adventurekorea.com Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line2), Exit 1.

Express Bus Terminal Station 고속버스터미널역 (Line 3, 7, 9), Exit 8.

4TH BNK MEET-UP Feb 9, 4pm–6:30pm Dental Solution, Gasan-dong Business Network Korea seeks to create an environment where everyone is open to creating new connections. Cost: 20,000 won.

www.hairandjoy.com

HAIR & JOY

3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Lotte Cinema (8F) UNICLO (1F)

Seven Springs

Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2

Hair Designer

Sun-ju

010-3080-3669

fine dining, live entertainment, dancing, silent auction, and raffle. Admission: 245,000 won. www.anzakorea.com Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Line 5, 9), Exit 3 or 4.

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEET-UP GROUP: JEJU TRIP Mar 30–Apr 1 CANADA BALL HOCKEY KOREA: SEASON KICK-OFF Feb 23, 24 Jamsil Sports Complex CBHK will kick off a new season on the weekend of Feb 23–24.

A 170,000 won fee covers a 14-week regular season and up to three weeks of play-offs; free beer at the draft party; a seasonending banquet with food and drinks; and a team shirt.

New players are welcome.To sign up, visit www.cbhk.org.

Sports Complex Station 잠실운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

IAK: MONTHLY MEET AND GREET Feb 23, 5:30pm

Gubeundari Station 굽은다리역 (Line 5)

Café Earthlings We’ll be holding the Meet and Greet in Café Earthlings in a new neighborhood in Jongno-gu.

T. 02-720-3716 (café) www.meetup.com/IrishAssociation-of-Korea [ Map 1 B2]

AWC MARDI GRAS Feb 23, 7pm–2am

KOREAN HERBAL TEAM PROMOTION Thru Feb 28 Oakwood Premier COEX Center Residents’ Lounge at Oakwood Premier COEX Center offers Korean traditional herbal tea through February 28.

T. 02-3466-7203 www.oakwoodpremier.co.kr [ Map 9 D2]

MIRAE TREKKING AND TOURS Mar 9, 10:30am

Renaissance Hotel Save the date! Theme: Masquerade Party www.awckorea-seoul.org [ Map 9 C2]

LET’S HELP CHILDREN: EASTERN SEOUL LOCATION Feb 24, 1:45pm Myungjin Children’s Welfare Center, Cheonho-dong Go teach children and talk, play, sing, dance, and eat with them.

Have fun doing something for a good cause.

T. 010-3385-7200 www.meetup.com/volunteers

Bukhansan Dulegil Let's trek Bukhansan Dulegil Course 1 and 2 at a moderate speed with nice people! It takes about 3 hours. No fees.

T. 010-4234-3638 www.meetup.com/MedaeTrekking-and-Tours Suyu Station 수유역 (Line 4), Exit 4.

ANZA KOREA BALL 2013 Mar 16, 6:30pm–2am Conrad Seoul An elegant black tie event with

Jeju Island 90,000 won fee covers guesthouse accommodation for 2 nights and a rent-a-car. Flight tickets not included.

T. 010-6437-3280 www.meetup.com/globalexpats Gimpo Airport at 8:30am or Jeju Airport at 9:40am

ANGEL HOUSE VOLUNTEERING Every Saturday at 1:30pm thru Mar 30 Volunteers will come together to clean, cook, launder, etc. for this wonderful house, which is a refuge for orphans and the disabled.

T. 010-8968-1812, 010-4411-5979 www.031-963-6506.kti114.net Yeonsinnae Station 연신내역 (Line 3, 6), Exit 3.

PROBATIONARY THEATRE COMPANY 2013 SEASON Feb 1, 2, 3: PTC’s Production of the comedy Good People by David Lindsay Abaire.

Feb 16, 17, 22, 23, 24: Seoul Players Production Stop Kiss.

March 15, 16, 17, 22, 23, 24: PTC’s Production of the drama Betrayal by Harold Pinter. www.probationarytheatre.com

----------------------------------------REGULAR EVENT -----------------------------------------

FIRST THURSDAYS AFTERWORK First Thursdays of the month, 9pm Banyan Tree Club & Spa The Festa First Thursdays Afterwork is a place to create new business

Whether you’re a newcomer to Seoul, long-time expat or Korean resident,

SIWA has something for you!

Founded in 1952, the Seoul International Women’s Association is Seoul’s largest and oldest international women’s group. Bringing together women from over 50 countries, SIWA provides opportunitites for friendship, cultural exchange, personal growth and community service.

Come join the fun!

Find out more at www.siwapage.com

opportunities.

Online registration required.

T. 02-2250-8080 http://afterworkseoul.com [ Map 5 B2]

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL HIKERS CLUB

Sports and fitness events taking place in and around Seoul, usually every Saturdays, sometimes Sundays.

Participants pay for their own meal. sihclub@gmail.com korea4expats.com

JANKURA ARTSPACE: REGULAR CLASS Every Tuesday & Thursday, 6pm–9pm Jankura Artspace in Itaewon Seoul's first foreign-owned and operated studio and art class space with the expat community in mind. Fee: 3 months (12 classes): 250,000 won, 1 time walk-in price: 25,000 won.

T. 010-6227-4244 http://mstewartprintmaker.com/ jankuraenglish.htm [ Map 8 D3]

BREASTFEEDING SUPPORT GROUP MEET-UP Third Thursday of every month, 10:30am–noon Homestead Coffee T. 02-749-9951 contact@birthinginkorea.com www.birthinginkorea.com [ Map 8 D3]

LATIN & SALSA IN GANGNAM Every 2nd and 4th Saturday, 5pm–6pm Renaissance Hotel Seoul Toscana Restaurant Great buffet and fun dancing.

Learn to dance jive/cha cha cha/ rumba/ waltz/tango with a professional instructor.

50,000 won (extra charges for dance instruction class).

T. 02-2222-8647 [ Map 9 C2]

VIDAL SASSOON IN UK CREATIVE STYLIST TONI & GUY IN UK TOP STYLIST Avenue JUNO Vice President • Vice President Education Director, Cheongdam Hair News Instructor at CEO course of Ewha Women’s University School of Continuing Education

Walk straight 100m from Exit 9, Cheongdam Station, Line 7.

The shop(Avenue Juno) is on your right. [ Map 9 C1]

EXERCISE: BRITISH ARMY FITNESS Every Monday, 7:30pm Namsan Park Join British Army Fitness in Korea on their Monday Evening Boot camp.

T. 010-9939-7830, bafikhq@gmail.com www.bafikbootcamps.com [ Map 8 D1] ----------------------------------------NEWS -----------------------------------------

AUTOMATED FREE BICYCLE RENTAL

Yongsan-gu Office has an automated free bicycle rental facility, equipped with 20 bikes, in the 1st basement area of the building near the Yongsan Community Health Clinic entrance. These bikes can be rented for free by any Yongsangu residents. T. 02-2199-7750 http://global.seoul.go.kr/itaewon [ Map 8 B3]

MORE INDISPENSABLE WEBSITES FOR EXPATS!

Expatriate life in Korea gets better with every useful new source of information on how to get by in and enjoy this amazing, ever-active country. Here are three (not all new) that you may find useful.

- Seoul Craigslist The place to go for expat second-hand buying and selling, plus a variety of other services.

All in English. http://seoul.craigslist.co.kr - Korea Job Finder The place to go for jobs in Korea.

Almost all vacancies are teaching positions. http://koreajobfinder.com - Cine in Korea Find the film you want, in the region of Korea you want, and book in online, all in English.

Payment can be made by local bank transfer, PayPal, or credit card. http://cineinkorea.com

MOBILE APP FOR ASEAN TOUR

The ASEAN Tourism Mobile

Application has launched an enhanced version that will be of great assistance to travelers seeking key information on tourist destinations, restaurants, transportation, and accommodations in the 10-member state ASEAN region. Charged with Kakaotalk messaging service, the new app also provides a complete map of each country and its major tourist attractions with vivid Google maps and satellite photos.

More info: contact the ASEAN Korea Center at 02-2287-1133 or huhj@aseankorea.org.

EXPAT ARTIST SET TO LAUNCH WEBSITE

Martyn Thompson plans to launch website PANK.kr (Professional Artists Network Korea), which will focus on local resources in terms of printing, framing, material supplies, and studio spaces.

It will also list upcoming shows from international and local Korean artists, while providing information on calls for work as well as professional artist interviews and mini bios each month.More info: contact Martyn Thompson at www. m-art-yn.com.

IN HONGDAE: INDIE MUSIC IN SEOUL A mini-documentary by koreanindie.com has been released for free on YouTube. The documentary is about cofounder Chris Park’s experience from an outsider’s point of view and with inside knowledge of Korean indie music. Younger bands like 24Hours, Riot Kidz, Love X Stereo, and Midnight Smokin’ Drive and established acts like Galaxy Express and Yellow Monsters are depicted in it to illustrate that Korean indie is growing in sound and talent. It is an extension of what koreanindie.com already does: introduce music to fans. www.youtube.com/koreanindie koreanindie.com

Do you have any events or other info for our Bulletin Board? If so, please send details to book@seoulselection.com

LAYING THE FOUNDATIONS FOR PEACE ASIA FOUNDATION KOREA REPRESENTATIVE PETER BECK TALKS TO SEOUL “I feel like I’ve got the coolest commute in Seoul,” says Peter Beck as he sits in his seventh floor office looking out over northern Seoul. Every morning, Beck’s walk to work takes him from his house in the old neighborhood of Seochon, where he lives with his wife and daughter, around the curved stone wall that marks the boundary between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Cheong Wa Dae—the contemporary seat of Korean power—past the northern entrance in Insa-dong, and down a road opposite Unhyeongung Royal Residence.

Beck, the Asia Foundation’s country representative for Korea, has a long association with the country. “I’ve spent the last 25 years either as a student of Korea or living here,” he says. Now a specialist in Korea and the region, Beck has previously served as Director of Research at the Korea Economic Institute in Washington, DC, Northeast Asia Director for the International Crisis Group in Seoul, Council on Foreign Relations Hitachi Fellow at Keio University in Tokyo, and Pantech Research Fellow at Stanford University. After a period of several years as a self-described “poet in the wilderness,” he took up his current post at the beginning of 2012. Being the AF’s country representative for Korea, he says, is a dream he has harbored since the late 1980s when studying for a BA in Asian Studies from the University of California, Berkeley.

A history of cooperation Headquartered in San Francisco, the Asia Foundation is a nongovernmental international development organization that has been promoting peace, prosperity, justice, and openness in the Asia-Pacific region for more than 50 years. Funded largely by national governments and multilateral institutions but also by corporations, other foundations, organizations, and individuals, it operates 17 field offices throughout Asia, from Afghanistan in the west and Korea in the east, to Mongolia in the north and East Timor in the south. The AF began its association with South Korea in 1954, just as the country began emerging from the devastation of the Korean War, and has continued to support education, the arts, agriculture, social services, international exchange, good governance, regional cooperation, and other areas in the ensuing decades.

Engaging with the North The AF’s Korea office is unique in that it is the only one in

Written by Ben Jackson

a developed country. “The mission has been accomplished politically and economically,” says Beck of the country that is now a stable democracy and one of the world’s largest economies. “Luckily, we’re still able to work with Korea in other countries such as Sri Lanka and Laos.” The AF’s stated mission and focus in Korea is now threefold: partnering with Korean organizations in order to help Korea grow into a global development partner; establishing a hub for cooperation in Northeast Asia; and engaging North Korea through book donation programs and international exchanges.

Beck professes to have been captivated by Korea ever since his travels through Asia first brought him here as a young man. His current contract is open to extension upon termination. “I want to stay here as long as possible,” he says. http://asiafoundation.org

Maps & guides35 FOOD/BEVERAGE LES DEUX PLATS Located in the alley of international eating establishments behind the Hamilton Hotel, Les Deux Plats is a unique French restaurant with a heavy Italian influence. The menu has a wealth of choices, including brunch items, salads, pastas, risottos, and steaks, though tweaked a bit to make them suitable to the Korean palate. They also offer various entrees and many different beers and cocktails. Set over three floors, the restaurant is topped with a cozy rooftop terrace. From 11am–3pm every day, the eatery serves six brunch items, which include a bowl of soup, sandwich, salad, and coffee all for 8,000 won. As its wide selection of pizza is priced at 16,000 won, the restaurant seeks to provide value and quality at a very reasonable price compared to its neighborhood competitors. Normal business hours are between 11am–2am.

Prost: T. 02-797-2228 | www.레뒤플라.com | [

Map 8

C3]

ACCOMMODATION SOMERSET PALACE SEOUL Located in the heart of Seoul’s diplomatic, business, and financial districts, Somerset Palace Seoul sits beside Korea’s dynastic seat of government—Gyeongbokgung Palace. The serviced residence occupies an ideal spot for a leisurely stroll to the restaurants, shopping arcades, entertainment outlets, and historic sites dotted in the nearby Insa-dong and Jongno area. But the apartments are about more than just the location. Spacious surroundings and a sophisticated ambience greet visitors upon their arrival. Its staff is professional and with a natural warmth and hospitality that make the experience all the more personal. Its luxurious, family-friendly apartment units range in size from studio, onebedroom, and two-bedroom to penthouse. Each provides an enriching living environment for the busy executive and family with state-of-the-art communications and entertainment facilities.

A welcome alternative to a hotel, Somerset Palace offers secure and comfortable accommodation in Seoul for business travel, holiday, extended stay, or relocation.

T. 02-6730-8888 | www.somersetpalace.co.kr | [

Map 1

FEBRUARY

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’S PICK OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

C2]

6

BEAUTY/HEALTH

1

3

7

JASENG HOSPITAL OF ORIENTAL MEDICINE

4

8

Oriental medicine is rapidly earning a reputation even among expats in Korea for promoting health without pharmaceuticals, excessive treatments, or operations. Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine, the standard bearer in this alternative medical trend, is famous for its therapy, which is based on non-surgical oriental medicine. It runs an international clinic headed by Dr Raimund Royer. Acute pain, chronic pain, and the fundamental causes of spine and joint disorders are treated with a combination of herbal medicine, Chuna manipulation therapy, acupuncture, and physical and exercise treatment. Chuna manipulation therapy is an orthopedic treatment for spinal troubles and joint diseases. The hospital’s International Clinic consists of English, German, Japanese, and Chinese-speaking medical specialists. Prior to treatment, the physical check-up center utilizes Western medical procedures, X-rays, MRIs, CT scans, ultrasounds, and bone densitometry to determine the proper diagnosis. Dr Royer, the first foreigner to become an Oriental doctor two decades ago, also serves as goodwill ambassador of the Korea Tourism Organization to promote medical tourism in Korea. River. The entertainment and multimedia technology is courtesy of the Apple Mac mini.

T. 02-3218-2167 (English), 02-3218-2106 (Japanese), 02-3218-2177 (Russian) www.jaseng.co.kr | [ Map 9 C1]

10 9

Map

1

Gwanghwamun Area Seoul’s old downtown

Map

2

Insa-dong

3

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

TEA THERAPY Blurring the conventional realms of health center and café, Tea Therapy is the brainchild of its owner’s philosophy—making his professional craft even more accessible to the masses through teas and diets. The owner is a certified Oriental medicine doctor. Drawing from traditional herbs, he focuses on the ingredients but also on the flavor and aroma while creating his own brews. One of the most popular teas, the Weight Loss blend, combines the zingy scent of dried tangerine peel with the toasty notes of buckwheat, while the Stress-Free blend imparts the refreshing scent of mint. The curry and tea combo item is priced at 13,500 won. Various brunch items are available. Patrons are free to use the foot baths outside the café. There are 3 basins where you can soak your feet in either hot or cold water.

Now you can enjoy your cup of tea at a hip and modern hot spot in the city!

Map 9

B1]

Map

6

Map

4

Map

5

Map

7

Map

Myeong-dong

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

Map

9

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

8

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet

Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s most hippest college town areas

A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries Map

BEVERAGE/HEALTH

T. 02-518-7506, 7507 | www.teatherapy.co.kr (Korean) | [

5

2

Map

10

Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond

Maps & guides The Gwanghwamun area, named for the landmark gate that marks the entrance of historic Gyeongbokgung Palace, is Seoul’s “old” downtown and where you’ll find Seoul’s enchanting royal palaces as well as other historical and cultural sites, such as Insa-dong, Bukchon, and Jeong-dong.

Map 1 GWANGHWAMUN AREA A

1

M

Line 1

M

Line 8

M

Line 2

M

Line 9

B

Metro

Tip

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

M

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

If you’re lost, seek out a nearby Tourist Information Center (marked on our Maps & Guides) or one of the helpful tourist information guides, easily recognized by their red uniforms with an “i” of them.

1

IP&I www.ipidc.co.kr C2 02-735-1135 Change your smile in a single day

Samcheong-dong

Restaurants & Bars Shops

Bukchon Hanok Village

National Folk Museum

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Ca'Del Lupo

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

D

Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Lost?

M

C

2

3

Bärlin C2 02-722-5622

Somerset Palace Seoul C2 02-6730-8888

Secure and comfortable accommodation with inspiring views of www.somerset.com Gyeongbokgung.

Authentic German cuisine in the heart of Seoul

Duomo Books & Cooks

Tongin Market Seochon

Jeongdok Public Library

o Se

Gyeongbokgung Palace

ul

Gastro TONG

Changgyeonggung Palace

r Fo

Wooilyo Gallery Shop

Bukchon Art Hall National Palace Museum of Korea (Gogungddurak) Seoul Selection Bookshop Tosokchon Changdeokgung Palace Gwanghwamun GCS The Kitchen International Gamrodang Salvatore Hwanghakjeong Bldg. & Bar Farmers (Archery Practice Site) Barn M Gyeongbokgung Stn. Somerset 1 Anguk Stn. Sajik Park M Jongmyo Palace Seoul 2 National Museum of Korean Gwanghwamun Sungkok Contemporary History 3 Shrine Art Museum Art Hall (PAN) National Museum of Unhyeongung Korean Contemporary History New York Ssamziegil Palace Gwanghwamun Square Dongnimmun Stn. Wholistic Care

all W ss

tre

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum Cafè Earthlings

s

2

M

5

Insa-dong Jogyesa Temple Gongpyeong-dong Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Kkomjangeo KT Olleh Square

Embassy of the United States

Ilpumdang B3 02-733-4949

Delicious Japanese shabu shabu and sukiyaki hot pot dishes made using only the finest quality, freshest ingredients

3

Independence Gate

Gwanghwamunjip

Seoul Museum of History

www.shinhan.com Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center

Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center B3 02-773-3131 The first branch in Korea exclusively for international residents

Ilmin Museum of Art Koreana Hotel

CINEMA JEONG-DONG (NANTA)

La Cuisine

Franciscan School CHONGDONG THEATER (MISO)

Munhwailbo Hall Seodaemun Stn. M

4

4

The British Embassy

Royal palaces

10:00 am

The Gwanghwamun area’s biggest attractions are its royal palaces. Located right at the end of Gwanghwamun Square B2, Gyeongbokgung Palace B2 is the most monumental and probably the easiest to visit and explore. To experience the epitome of Korean traditional architecture, though, head to Changdeokgung Palace D2 , with its spectacular, UNESCO-registered gardens, the most beautiful in Korea.

Lunch Plan A Insa-dong/Bukchon

01:00 pm 02:00pm

Many international visitors head to Insa-

Yangmiok Euljiro 3-ga Stn.

M

MM

Euljiro 1-ga Stn. Inje Univ. Stress Center

Seoul Plaza City Hall Stn. M M

The Plaza Hotel

Appenzeller Noble Memorial Museum Kuryeo Samgyetang French Institute Ohyangjokbal

EXPLORING GWANGHWAMUN

Woo Lae Oak

Press Center Seoul Global Center(3F) City Hall

Deoksugung Palace

Seoul Museum of Art

dong (see Map 2 ), a bustling neighborhood of galleries, workshops, antique stores, teahouses and Korean restaurants. For a truly memorable experience, though, spend your afternoon exploring the quaint alleyways of the Bukchon neighborhood (see Map 3 ), home to Seoul’s largest collection of Korean-style hanok homes.

Myungbo Art Hall Myeong-dong

Gwanghwamun Square

07:30 pm

In the evening, stop by Gwanghwamun Square B2 , which is lit up at night. The area around the square is one of Seoul’s most interesting, with palaces, museums, performing arts venues and shops.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Plan B Jeong-dong

02:00pm

Another neighborhood worth exploring is Jeong-dong B4, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, where you’ll find lovely old churches, schools and diplomatic compounds.

Also part of Jeong-dong is fascinating Deoksugung Palace B4, with its eclectic Korean and Western architecture.

Dinner

05:30 pm

M

Cheonggyecheon Stream

National Art Museum, Deoksugung

Jeong-dong

Vabien Suites

Nagwon Arcade

Piccadilly Theater Kyobo Book Centre Jongno Cheongjinok Danseongsa Tower Tapgol Park Memorial / The.Me / M Jongno 3-ga Stn. Monument Mijin Memilguksu M M Jonggak Stn. Woori Nara to Emperor YP Books Gojong Seoul Theater (Jump) TomaTillo Cheonggye Cine Core Plaza

Indie Space Kumho Art Hall Gwanghwamun Stn. M Dongwha Duty Free Shop Cine Cube Seoul City Tour Bus

Gyeonghuigung Palace

4

5

Tteok Museum (Institute of Traditional Korean Food)

TomaTillo C3 (T. 02-734-9225) An outstanding Cali-Mex restaurant with branches here and in Itaewon and Gangnam.

Farmers Barn D2 (T. 02-743-9233) Top-of-the-line handmade hamburgers with organic ingredients for a fresh taste.

Gwanghwamunjip B3 (T. 02-739-7737) One of the most famous kimchi stew (gimchi jjigae) restaurants in the area.

Ohyangjokbal B4 (T. 02-753-4755)

Kim Sam Bo

Some of the best jokbal (boiled pig’s trotters) in Seoul. Comes with rice-cake soup, too! Near Seoul City Hall.

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo C3 (T. 02-738-1769) Barbecue-broiled eel and pork chitterlings in a retro interior. Near Jonggak Station (Line 1).

The.Me C3 (T. 02-2075-6611) They don’t serve many side dishes here, but the Korean beef they serve is top-rate. On the third floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

Cheongjinok C3 (T. 02-735-1690) They’ve been doing haejangguk (Korean hangover soup) since 1937. First floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

Tosokchon B2 (T. 02-737-7444) Seoul’s best-known purveyor of samgyetang (ginseng-chicken soup). Always full. Not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.

37 Once known (for reasons unknown) as “Mary’s Alley,” Insa-dong started off as an alley of antique dealers and is now one one of Seoul’s major centers of Korean traditional art and culture.

Map 2 INSA-DONG A

B

C

Tip Korea Pass

uk

Ang

Bukchon

The Korea Tourism Organization offers Korea Pass, a prepaid card that offers not only plenty of benefits at tourism-related sites, but can also be used as a transportation card. See www. koreapass.or.kr for details.

D

Unhyeongung Palace

Stn.

Dimibang Nwijo Sagwanamu

Doriking

1

Line 1

M

Line 8

M

Line 2

M

Line 9

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

M

Chon

Ma Vie

Miss Lee Café Gana Art Space

Cheondogyo Central Temple

The Moon Bird Thinks of the Moon Only

Min's Club Sin Yetchatjip

2

Jogyesa Temple (Central Buddhist Museum)

Crown Hotel

Sudo Pharmacy

Sanchon

Jilkyungyee

Sun Gallery Gong Art Space

3

Nagwon Arcade (4F, Cinematheque / Seoul Art Cinema)

IT'S SKIN

La Mer g - il hwa Tae

Tea Museum

Dolsilnai

VOOK's Gallery

Nami Island Culture Tour Information

Chilgapsan Seoul Art Center

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo

Tteuran

National Souvenir Center

g on a-d tion Ins rsec e Int

Hotel SunBee

Hotel Aventree Jongno

Center Mark Hotel

Fraser Suites

Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul Insan Inhae

O'NGO

Yetchatjip (2F)

Tongin Store

Haejeong Hospital

You can arrange a stay at a Buddhist temple.

Jongno Tteokjip

Dubu Maeul Mera Hatt Park Yeong-suk Yo

Dolsilnai

1

Beoldeok Kalguksu/ Nolboo Budaejjigae & Cheolpangui

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Ssamzigil

Insa Art Center Mokin Gallery

Templestay Information Center A2 02-2031-2000

Gyo-dong Elementary School

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art (Dawon)

Gallery Artside

Balwoo Gongyang (5F) 1

Restaurants & Bars Shops

Tobang

Bonjuk

Metro

M

Naminsa Open Theater Seung Dong Presbyterian Church Manseok Dakhanmari

Jongno Tower (Top Cloud 33F) Done Zone

Bandi & Luni's 4

IT'S SKIN

Insa-dong Culture Plaza

Bosingak Belfry

10:00 am

Insa-dong is comprised of one main street and the alleyways that branch off from it.

Along the main street you’ll find most of Insa-dong’s galleries and shops, while the restaurants and teahouses can be found in the alleyways. Major galleries to check out are the Kyung-in Museum of Art C2 (lovely teahouse here, too), Insa Art Center B2, Kong Gallery B3, VOOK’s Gallery C3 (great if you like books) and the fascinating Mokin Gallery B3, dedicated to Korean totemism.

Lunch Exploring Insa-dong’s past

Kumkang

Jewelry Market YMCA

KT Global Store

EXPLORING INSA-DONG Galleries tour

Bon Bibimbap

Dubu Chon

Jonggak Stn.

YP Books

Tapgol Park

Cine Core (JUMP)

M Sguane

Insa-dong has its fair share of history, too.

In an alley just off the main street is historic Seung Dong Presbyterian Church C3 (1902), and in another is the grand, Art Nouveau central temple of Cheondogyo C1 (1921), an indigenous Korean faith. Near Insa-dong are Unhyeonggung Palace D1 , a gorgeous 19th century Korean villa well worth exploring, and Tapgol Park D4, Seoul’s first Westernstyle park.

Nagwon Arcade

04:00pm

Nagwon Arcade D2 is Asia’s largest collection of musical instrument shops. The nearby restaurants are cheap but good.

12:30 pm 02:00pm

Dinner

05:30 pm

Ssamzigil

07:00 pm

A neighborhood with a neighborhood, Ssamzigil B2 is a culture and shopping complex comprised of four floors of stores, restaurants and workshops. It’s home to about 70 shops in all. Recommended ones include Galpi (books), Sky Lake (cosmetics made with Korean traditional herbs), Chinjeolhan Hyeonja-ssi (Korean cuisine/ broiled fish) and Bukchon Sonmandu (Korean dumplings). In the basement there is also a branch of Gogung, the famed Jeonju bibimbap restaurant.

Buddhist cuisine, this famed eatery does great vegetarian cuisine, with Korean traditional dance performances in the evening.

Min’s Club C1 (T. 02-733-2966) Fusion is the name of the game here, both in terms of the architecture (a fusion hanok from the 1930s) and the cuisine (fusion dishes mixing Korean and Western flavors).

Toetmaru Doenjang Yesul C2 (T. 02-739-5683) Run by poet/photographer Park Jung-sik, this lively place specializes in gang doenjang, a very thick, rich soy bean paste stew.

Balwoogongyang A2 (T. 02-2031-2081) Specializing in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

Dubu Maeul C2 (T. 02-735-9996)

Sanchon C2 (T. 02-735-0312)

The taste of Korean traditional homemade tofu and pungent, healthy cheonggukjang soybean stew.

Run by a Buddhist monk and expert in Korean

Maps & guides In Samcheong-dong and Bukchon, traditional hanok homes, aged stone walls, contemporary galleries, and fashionable cafés intermingle in a relaxed and cheerful atmosphere.

Map 3 SAMCHEONG-DONG / BUKCHON A

B

A good way to see the city on the cheap is Seoul City Tour Bus (www.seoulcitybus. com), where a single ticket brings you to many of the city’s top destinations. You can get on and off as many times as you like.

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

De miel Yongsusan

The Board of Audit and Inspection of Korea

Owl Museum

Maple Tree House

Seoul City Tour

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

D

Samcheong Park

Tip

Restaurants & Bars Shops

1

C

Beonsachang

Second Best Place in Seoul

Korea Banking Institute

Sosonjae Samcheong-dong Office Dal 1887

Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Baedongbaji

Samcheong Sujebi

Gallery Kong

M

Line 1

M

Line 8

M

Line 2

M

Line 9

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

M M

Romanée Conti

8

El Casa

Dalhangari Cheongsujeong

Silkroad Museum Chez Simon Bukchon Hanok Village (31 Gahoe-dong) 6

Chung

Toy Kino Tea Garden 4 5 (Cha Masineun Tteul)

Brazil Embassy Jinsun Book Café

Kukje Gallery

Hwang Saengga Kalguksu Keun Giwa House Art Sonje Center UUL National Art Museum, Seoul (open 2013)

Dongsipjagak

Mugsh Donna

www.seoulselection.com

Have a cup of coffee and read about Korea’s culture, history and literature, as well as useful living information.

-gil

Culture Station for Tourists

Seoul Selection Bookshop A4 02-734-9565

Dahmsojung

DooRoo Café

Cha Hyang Gi Tea Shop Café 4M 2 AYA SOPHIA

Bukchon Gamasot Seolleongtang

Seoul Selection Bookshop

Dong Lim Museum

Donmi Pharmacy

Hwanggeumal Sikdang

Bukchon Guest House

Rak-Ko-Jae

Gallery NaMu

Romanée Conti

1

Rossini AYASOPHIA Wedding dress C3 070-7518-1088

www.aya-sophia.com | TUE-SUN AM 10:30-PM 8:00 This wedding shop is hidden away in an alley near Bukchon’s Jeongdok Library deals almost exclusively in wedding dresses. Prices are quite reasonable, just $200 to $600. You can try them on before making up your mind, and prices are all marked. Reception dresses, wedding shoes, and wedding accessories can be purchased at reasonable prices, too. For the time being, when you buy a dress, they’ll throw in an accessory for free.

The B Beautiful Store Savina Museum

Reminis Cake

2

Ulim Fair Trade Shop Andrew’s Eggtart

Seoul Guest House

Namwon

The Constitutional Court of Korea

g:ru Byeolgung Sikdang

Jae-dong Elementary School

Home of Former President Yun Boseon

Byeolgung-gil

1

1

Han Sangsu Embroidery Museum

Bukchon Art Museum

Gyedong Mananim

Gamgodang

4

Jeongdok Public Library

dodo& Coffee & Dessert

Africa Museum of Art

Gallery Hyundai

3

Bukchon Hanok Village (11 Gahoe-dong)

Blacksmith's Oven-baked Pizza

CineCode Sonje Arario Gallery Joseon Gimbap Sophia Guest House

Kumho Museum of Art

Ahnkook Zen Center

Gahoe Museum

World Jewellery Museum Mirandoisa

Hakgojae Gallery

Dugahun

Gahoe-dong Catholic Church

Make My Rainbow TNGT

Gyeongbokgung Palace

3

YIDO

Simsimheon

Soowarae

The National Folk Museum of Korea

Choongang High School

7

8 Steps

Chataigne

Gah oe-d ong Tour

2

BeansBins Cook'n Heim Bukchon Museum

Sam che ong don g-gi l

Flora

Metro

.

Anguk Stn

Bukchon Changwoo Theater

Japan Cultural Center

EXPLORING SAMCHEONGDONG AND BUKCHON Seoul Selection Bookshop

09:30 am

Begin your exploration at Seoul Selection Bookshop A4, where you can browse our wide selection of English language books on Korea.

31 Gahoe-dong

10:30 am

Bukchon Hanok Village C2 is Seoul’s largest collection of Korean traditional hanok homes. There’s a lot to see up here, but the best views are to be had at 31 Gahoe-dong C2, an inclined road lined with

lovely Korean homes. One home, the Simsimheon C2, is open to the public (10,000 won, includes cup of plum tea). Map available from tourist information booth in front of Jeongdok Public Library B3.

Lunch

11 Gahoe-dong

12:30 pm 02:00pm

Explore 11 Gahoe-dong D2, another cluster of hanok homes, some of which have been converted into workshops and galleries such as the Gahoe Museum D2 and the Han Sangsu Embroidery Museum D2. Just past 11 Gahoe-dong is picturesque Choongang High School D2. Also near 11 Gahoe-dong

is Ahnkook Zen Center D2, which hold Zen meditation classes in English every Saturday from 2:30pm to 4pm.

Samcheong-dong

04:00pm

You’ll find a ton of cafés, eateries and quaint boutiques in Samcheong-dong B2/C1.

If you’re feeling so inclined, you can follow the road all the way to Samcheong Park C1, a very nice place to stroll about in spring.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES De miel c1 (T. 02-720-1307) Serving fusion Italian cuisine, this place has been hot lately with the young crowd.

Sosonjae C1 (T. 02-730-7002) Those with a “healthy living” kick can check out Sosonjae, which does Korean cuisine prepared with herbs.

BeansBins C1 (T. 02-736-7799) Great waffles and coffee from all over the world in Samcheong-dong.

Byeolgung Sikdang B4 (T. 02-736-2176) This place does some of the best cheonggukjang (a hearty soybean stew) in the city.

Samcheong Sujebi B1 (T. 02-735-2965) Serves up some great potato dough flakes.

39 Frequently compared to Tokyo’s Shinjuku neighborhood, Myeong-dong is a district of neon lights, electronic billboards, department stores, high-end retail shops, good food, and lots and lots of people.

Map 4 MYEONG-DONG A

B

C

D

Tip

Hanbit Media Park

Duty-Free Shops Duty-free stores in Seoul include the Shinsegae (Map 4), Lotte (Map 4), Walkerhill (Gwangnaru Stn., Line 5), Shilla (Map 5) and Dongwha (Map 1).

See maps for exact locations.

2

3

SKT Tower Books Libro

1

4 Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn.

1

KEB Square Korea Exchange Bank

5

8 7

2

6

Unde rgrou nd Sh oppin g Cen ter

Lotte Dept.

Store 10 Corso Commo AvenueL Wongudan Shrine Lotte AvenueL

Westin Chosun

Kepco

Metro Hotel

M

Line 9

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

Restaurants & Bars Shops Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Suyedang's exquisite Hwakwaja snacks are come in a bewildering variety of beautiful colors and shapes—the best thing, though, is that they are made from natural recipes that use only Korean traditional plant-based ingredients and taste every bit as good as they look. They make ideal New Year's gifts if you can resist eating them yourself.

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Café Droptop

Ibis

Gong Cha

Myeongdong Dongkas

YWCA Dononburi Myeong-dong

Taj

Myeongdong Theater

Krispy Aritaum Kreme

Myeong-dong Catholic Center

Teenie Weenie WhoAU / TOPTEN10 8 Seconds MISSHA Ttarojip Baekje Samgyetang Laneige TNGT

Skin Food

IT'S SKIN

Hat's On

Gogi Juneun Naengmyeonjip 3

Din Tai Fung

The Korea Post

Etude House Ggong Si Myeon Gwan

Skin Food

Everysing

Jongno Bindaetteok 4

10:00 am

Any proper exploration of the Myeong-dong neighborhood should begin at Myeong-dong intersection A4, home to some wonderful examples of early 20th century architecture.

11:00 am

Walking along the main street towards Eulji-ro and you’ll pass the bustling Lotte Young Plaza A2, Lotte Avenuel A2 and Lotte Department Store A2. Get your credit card ready.

01:00 pm 02:00pm

Across from the Lotte Department Store A2 is where the real fun begins. You’ll find the big

Beautiplex The Saem Tabby

international name brands along the main drag, but check out the back alleys for more reasonable priced mid-range brands.

Myeong-dong Cathedral

05:00 pm

At the east end of Myeong-dong, sitting atop a hill overlooking the commercialism, is Myeong-dong Cathedral C3. Built by French missionaries in 1898, the beautiful Gothic church also played an important role in Korea’s democratization movement of the 1980s.

Dinner

Myeong-dong at night

6

5 4

Hugo Spa

8

7 3

ong Stn.

Myeong-d

2

10

9

Sejong Hotel

1

ASTORIA HOTEL (BELLA COOLLA 63) / 1 Namsangol Hanok Village / Korea House / Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater Chungmuro Stn., Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Chinatown B3 It won’t rival San Francisco’s Chinatown anytime soon, but it’s still a great place to score good Chinese food.

Myoung-dong Kyoja C2/C3 (T. 02-776-7384, 02-773-3364) This Myeong-dong institution has been serving kalguksu (handmade noodles) and dumplings since 1966.

Bella Coolla 63 D4 (T. 02-2275-7473)

06:00pm

A New York-style Italian restaurant, located in Astoria Hotel, is a great choice if you are in the mood for pasta or steak.

07:00 pm

Donburi Myeong-dong D2 (T. 02-2235-1123)

Just wander around in take in the lights.

And the crowds! If you’re a Korean Wave fan, check out Everysing B4 (T. 02-778-9850), a shop selling merchandise of actors and singers with SM Entertainment.

Myeong-dong Shooting Range

IT'S SKIN

BBQ Premium Café

State Tower Namsan

Myeong-dong Intersection

Roem

Migliore Roxy

1

Myoungdong Kyoja

M-Plaza Astoria Hotel D4 02-2268-7111 Located in Chungmuro, the Astoria (Seoul Global Culture & Tourism Center) is one of Seoul's most historic hotels and home to one of its finest Italian Beaute restaurants.

Grandma's Nakji Etude House Sunshine Byeollan Platform Place Gogung Halbaejip

SPAO

Onedang Gamjatang

EXPLORING MYEONG-DONG

Fugetsu

Zen Hideaway

Spicy Color Etude House A Land The Saem Savoy Hotel Beaute

Myeong-dong Intersection

Shinsegae Dept. Store

Chungmu Kimbap

Aritaum

Chinatown

Bank of Korea

Samilro Changgo Theatre Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral

Unesco House

NANTA THEATER IT'S SKIN

More shopping!

Line 2

M

Suyedang Hwakwaja A2 02-726-4094 | www.suyedang.com

Coin

Myeongdong Sundubu

Lotte Young Plaza Noon Square Level 5 (5F)

Lunch

Line 8

Seoul Royal Hotel

Arirang

Retail therapy

M

M

70s Radio Pub

2 SUYEDANG

Line 1

M

Neobijip

Lotte Hotel Pierre’s Bar (35F) Mugunghwa (38F)

2

Korea Foundation Cultural Center

Metro

M

Japanese-style rice bowls, with fresh wasabi brought straight from Japan.

Gogi Juneun Naengmyeonjip B3 (T. 02-772-9991) There are few nicer meals than grilled meat

followed by naengmyeon (Korean chilled noodles).

Baekje Samgyetang B2 (T. 02-776-3267) A Myeong-dong institution, this place has been serving samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) for over 40 years. Very popular with the Japanese tourist crowd.

Ttarojip C2 (T. 02-776-2455) Sure, this place looks like it’s going to fall down, but it’s been serving some of the city’s best ttaro gukbap (rice and meat-broth soup) forever. Get the modeumjeon (an assortment of fried patties), too.

Chungmu Gimbap C3 (T. 02-755-8488) A simple gimbap served with pan-fried spicy squid and diced radish kimchi, or kkakdugi.

Ggong Si Myeon Gwan B3 (02-778-8863) A more affordable and casual dim sum restaurant. If you order xiaolongbao, a small serving of jajangmyeon (Chinese black bean noodles) comes free.

Maps & guides Dongdaemun is Seoul’s fashion mecca—within the sprawling Dongdaemun Market are countless shopping malls, specialty shops, and clothing designers producing cutting-edge designs for reasonable prices.

Map 5 DONGDAEMUN A

B

C

D

Mt. Naksan Daehangno

Ewha Womans Univ.

Dongdaemun Hospital Two Hotel

Doosan Art Center 1

Pakgane

Dongdaemun General Market

Pharmacy Area

Gwangjang Market

Cheonggyecheon Stream

Best Western Hotel

Doota

IT'S SKIN

Ala-Too Café Ojang-dong Naengmyeon Alley

Dongguk Univ.

Hyundai Residence

mu-ro Chung Grand Ambassador hotel

U:US

·· Nuzzon

M

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church

National Theater of Korea Shilla Hotel (Duty Free) Mt. Namsan

Seoul Club / Banyan Tree Club & Spa

If you’d like to take in the views from N Seoul Tower (www.nseoultower.co.kr), there are plenty of ways up the mountain, including buses, a cablecar and your own two legs.

Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Alley

M

Line 2

M

Line 9

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

M

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Arthouse Momo

lucycato Café de Chocolatier

Kosney

Zen II

Beer O'Clock Ark Shinchon

Krema

Minto

SushiEn

Brothers Hyung Jae Galbi Queen Live Hall Tea Caddy

1

Lee Kang Un Cuperm (4F)

2

Gopchang J

.

Dialogue in the Dark

Sinchon Stn.

Salon de Badabie

2

Caffe Zudy

1

Etone B2 070-7583-6431

This dessert café, run by Hwakwaja snack maker Suyedang, serves up a mouthwatering range of cakes, ice cream and drinks, not to mention Hwakwaja themselves.

ZEN Hair Salon Ewha Branch

Zen Hair Salon C1 02-362-4125

Grand Mart

Live Club Bban

Ewha Womans Univ. Stn

Atreon A treon

Hongik Univ.

Geek Live House

Mixxo

Hyundai UPLEX

Hyundai Dept.Store

Yes apM

San Kore

Sanwoollim Theater Sukara Café (1F)

. on Stn

Geopum qb Sanbong Hwarogui

Sinch

IT'S SKIN

Cheolgil Wan

All of Rock (AOR)

1

Yale Town 1

Metro

y) le Al

Lee Kang Un Cuperm (3F)

Line 8

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Doksuri Building Bock Sung Gak Chinese LA CELTIQUE Restaurant Club

M

A

Sinchon Train Station (Gyeongui Line)

Migliore

Line 1

Restaurants & Bars Shops

C

Ewha Womans Univ.

M

nt s ra ck u ra sta nT e ai t R Tr ea (M

B

Filmforum (700m)

Loving Hut

Sindang

Two of Seoul’s most hip college town areas, Sinchon and Ewha cater to all students on a tight budget, but still looking for fashion, food, and a little fun.

Yonsei Univ.

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

M Stn. M

Getting Up Mt. Namsan

Jangchung-dong Jokbal Restaurants

Pyeongyang Myeonok

A

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Chungmu Art Hall

Tip

Map 6 SINCHON / EWHA

Hyang Music

Restaurants & Bars Shops

Dongdaemun Dongdaemun M Design Plaza Samarkand Café History & Culture Park —under construction Central Asia Dongdaemun Ala Do Village History & Culture Park Stn. Darkhan M

Cheong Gye Cheon Museum

Designer Club

Good Morning City

2

Jungang Market

New Pyeonghwa Dong Pyeonghwa Market Market Da Chae

Migliore

Hello apM Megabox Dongdaemun

Park of Seoul Hunlyunwon

Jungbu Market

E-mart

Cheong Pyeonghwa Market

M

Cerestar

Bangsan Market

Western Co-op Residence Hotel Darkhan Café

Dongmyo Flea Market

Heunginjimun (Dongdaemun Gate)

IT'S SKIN

Pyeonghwa Market

Euljiro 4-ga Stn.

.

n Stn aemu

Dongd

M

Somunnan Wonjo M Jongno 5-ga Stn. Dak Hanmari Used Book Broiled Fish Alley Alley Monyeo Kkoma Gimbap Wedding Goods Market

yo Stn. Dongm Dongmyo Shrine

M M

2

Designers with an international education in styling

Sogang Univ.

City Guest House

Danimgil Makgeol

TAF (Total Art Festival Café and Bar)

EXPLORING SINCHON Exploring Korea’s historic universities

10:00 am

One of Korea’s most respected institutions of higher learning, Yonsei University A1 was founded by American missionaries in the early 20th century. Stroll around the pleasant campus, taking in the romantic, ivy-covered period architecture. After that, take a cab to Ewha Womans University C1, the world’s largest women’s university.

The campus, also established by American missionaries, is absolutely gorgeous.

Lunch

Noon

Have lunch. You’ll find plenty of restaurants in front of the universities. Sinchon is rife with delicious and cost-effective eateries and bars perfect for the miserly spender.

Shop

02:00pm

If you’re female and you like shopping, you’ll love the area around Ewha Womans University C1, where you’ll find everything for your fashion and beauty needs.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES SushiEn A1 (T. 02-365-3223)

With an abundance of nigiri, roll and even fruit options, rotating sushi bar SushiEn is one of Seoul’s only boastworthy Japanesestyle sushi joints.

Metro

M

Line 1

M

Line 8

Beer O’clock A1 (T. 02-333-9733)

M

Line 2

M

Line 9

Run by Canadians, has awesome beer.

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

M

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

Tea Caddy C3 (T. 02- 313-7523) To regain your calm and class, stroll down to Tea Caddy, where teas from the world’s most prominent tea producers wait to regale you with a symphony of scents and flavors.

lucycato Café de Chocolatier C2 (T. 02-362-0050) If you’re back in Ewha, find some chocolate happiness with lucycato, stocked with coffee, waffles, cake and, above all, chocolate!

3

Dooriban

Tip

Hongdae Free Market & Seoul Live Music Festa Every Saturday Univ. holds an art and crafts market featuring work by local artisan Hongik Univ.-area clubs host the Seoul Live Music Festa every last F

41 EXPLORING DONGDAEMUN 07:00 pm

Dongdaemun Gate

Begin your exploration of Dongdaemun at its namesake, historic Dongdaemun Gate C1, the old eastern passage to Seoul. Built in 1869, the imposing gate and its stone walls are fitting tributes to the glory of the Joseon Dynasty.

EXPLORING HONGDAE

although these tend to most active at night, when the wholesalers do their trade. Come here anytime between 10pm and 3am, and you’ll find buyers from all over Korea and even overseas searching for deals on bulk purchases. The energy is electric.

08:00pm

Dongdaemun History & Culture Park C2 is a landmark piece of urban landscaping designed by famed British architect Zaha Hadid.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

Shopping!

10:00 pm

After you’ve taken in the history and culture, it’s time to get busy shopping. Dongdaemun Market is home to several massive fashion malls, including Doota Tower B1, Migliore B1 and Pyeonghwa Market A1. The shops here stock goods by younger, smaller designers.

Midnight

Wholesale market

Need a quick bite while you’re shopping?

This is probably the most convenient place to do so. Clean and delicious.

This area is famous for its restaurants specializing in jokbal , or marinated pig feet sliced and served with lettuce leaf and kimchi.

Dinner

East of Dongdaemun History & Culture Park C2 you’ll find still more shopping centers,

B

Central Asia Village B2 Home to many restaurants specializing in Uzbek, Russian and Mongolian cuisine. Most don’t look like much, but they do good food that is easy on the wallet, too.

Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Alley C2 The Sindang-dong neighborhood has an alley of restaurants that do Sindang tteokbokki, a dish of panfried rice cakes cooked in a spicy red pepper sauce with noodles, dumplings and other yummy things.

Pyeongyang Myeonok B2 (T. 02-2267-7784) Famous for naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles in a chilled turnip and beef broth. North Koreanstyle meat platters like obokjaengban and jaeok, and their fist-sized dumplings can’t be missed, too.

C

Good gyros and souvlaki.

Cheolgil Wang Galbisal B1 (T. 02-332-9208) Great BBQ meat and delicious stew.

Hakata Bunko E1 (T. 02-338-5536) Tasty Japanese-style ramen noodles are available around the corner from the Far East Broadcasting Co.

Castle Praha E2 (T. 02-334-2121) A taste of the Czech Republic in Korea, this Czech-style beer hall houses a microbrewery (run by a Czech brew master).

405 Kitchen E2 (T. 02-332-3949) A pleasant Hongdae café with three spaces— hall, sedentary table room, and terrace—serves brunch by day and wine at night.

Vinyl E1 (T. 02-322-4161) This tiny drinking establishment serves up various cocktails in plastic bags with straws and has an atmosphere all of its own.

Little Terrace D2 (T. 02-333-3310) Little Terrace, or more precisely, “This Little Terrace Has Mesmerized Me,” is a fifth-floor wine bar that serves affordable wines in a romantic atmosphere. Oh yeah, and it’s got a terrace with nice views.

When the sun goes down, Hongdae heats

D

2

E

Modern Design Museum

ng

Hongik Univ.

Jammers (B1F)

Alternative Space LOOP

Jeongol Pollala

75015 2

Brownbreath Ding Dong

Bar Daq

& Coffee

Anseong Mart Cuba Wang

Tora-b

Hongik Galbi Café Danchu

Mapo Lifelong Learning Center Pedestrian-Friendly Street

Trickeye Museum (B1F) A Land

1

NANTA THEATER

Tony Moly

Jongno Bindaetteok

V-Hall Club Vera

02-363-4253 Hair in its natural state

Lotte Cinema

BBQ Premium Café

Angel-in-us Coffee

Swing Guitar Café Street

eathai

Old Rock

Club Auteur M2 Q-vo

Zari

Chie The Café

Live Club DGBD Multicultural Museum

Café Eire

Club Mansion Publishing Alley Ganggang Sullai Gallery Zandari Bobo Hotel

Prism Live Hall

Zoo

Mixxo

Hotel Seokyo

Hongik Univ. Stn.

y, the playground in front of Hongik ns. If you’re into dancing and live music, Friday of the month.

Gam Salon 405 Kitchen Eunhasu Dabang

Castle Praha

Youngbin Wedding Hall

Hair & Joy B3 02-363-4253

1

Inn Bar

Hello Kitty Cafe 1300K Seoul Art Space – Seog40 Sapience 7

Ziller Zone 1300K

Gap Denim Studio

D'Avant

ley Al Gogos2 NOK Bread 05 Lot Rolling Hall FF ing TA k After A Land r Evans Lounge Pa Ronin El Bliss Design Museum aA Found Store Ska2 Fell+Cole Club Crack Shamrok Rock & Roll

Margarita lley Splash (1F) Mural A Tinpan Taehwa Plaza Harlem (NB1) Bowling Center Myoung Wol Gwan Bar Exit Ice Waffle Lomography Korea Spot Playground Little Terrace SoundHolicity Greek Joy Theater Snow Spoon Dan Hana Zero Paul & Paulina de Solar Freebird Chloris Tea Cocoon

OFF°C

Vinyl

et re St

Pomponnette

Hooper

o de Ro

i-gong

Unit Saab dd

Platform Place

Style Nanda

Café Kkum (B1) Cellar15 (1F) Ullim (2F) IAN Café (3F) Louis Vins (4F)

Toni & Guy Sk@

Didim Hall

Indifan Reggae Chicken

Gyahaha

Noise Basement (NB2)

Jenny's Bread

Café Suda

Coffee Prince

Sangsu Stn.

Far East Broadcasting Co.

The Post Theater

Sky High

F

4 1

Hakata Bunko

nwoolim ean-Style Bar Lydian

lli Pub

Greek Joy D2 (T. 02-338-2100)

Nightime

Dance the night away

ng Galbisal

y t e

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

The Hongdae area is best known for its nightlife, but it’s a pretty cool place in the day, too. Hongdae is one of Seoul’s most artistically vibrant neighborhoods.

Check out Mural Alley D1, an interesting experiment where young artists have been communicating with the masses since 1993. You’ll find plenty of other street art in the area, and then there’s always KT&G Sangsang Madang E2, a privately run cultural complex that not only hosts exhibits and performances in a variety of genres, but also provides support for local artists. Another gallery to check out is Pollala B1, a collection of toys by pop artist Hyeon Tae-jun.

If buying art is your thing, go on Saturday and stop by Hongdae Free Market D2, where local artists come to sell their works. It’s a good place to pick up some beautiful arts and crafts. The Hope Market D2, held on Sunday, is more of a traditional flea market.

After you’ve done some shopping, stop by A Land D2, where you can pick up fashion from up-and-coming local and international designers. After A Land E1, meanwhile, sells well-handled goods and post-season fashion for even better prices.

Jangchung-dong Jokbal Restaurants B2

09:00pm

Daylight

Exploring Hongdae’s art scene

Doota Food Court B1 Dongdaemun History & Culture Park

up. Hongdae is the heart of Korea’s indie culture, and the music and dance clubs here are the most popular in Korea.

Hapjeong Stn. Kyusoodang Wedding Hall

Bulgogi Brothers

Choseon Barbecue

Map 7 HONGDAE

The Hongdae (Hongik University) neighborhood is Korea’s indie culture center. On a weekend, this place is full of young people looking to have a good time in its many clubs and bars.

Maps & guides Itaewon is Seoul’s multicultural mecca, well-known for its excellent restaurants, exciting nightlife, and cosmopolitan clientele.

Once the entertainment district for US military personnel from the nearby Yongsan Garrison, the neighborhood has grown increasingly diverse and upscale in recent years. The main road of Itaewon is full of tailor’s shops and clothing stores.

Map 8 ITAEWON The Baker's Table A Magpie Two Hands Takeout Drawing T.G. Brunch Café Burger Craftworks Burn Phillies Taphouse & Bistro – The Concorde BAO Noxa (Taste of Thailand, Sukhumvit 2F) Haebangchon 1

Lazy Sue

Earl Le Saigon

Mi Madre(2F)

B

C

Tip

Restaurants & Bars Shops

Hangang River The Hangang River is more than something to look at. Experience the river’s charms via a Hangang cruise (02-3271-6900), some yachting at Seoul Marina (www. seoul-marina.com), or by water taxi (www.pleasantseoul.com)!

Gyeongnidan

D

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Buddha's Belly Standing Coffee Jungang Gyeongnidan

Powwow Seoul RES2GO Butter Cup

Metro

M

Line 1

M

Line 8

M

Line 2

M

Line 9

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

M

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

1

Café O'HANA Waffle Factory Café T8

4 DISTRICT C2 02-749-3249

Le Saint-Ex C2 02-795-2465

Delicious and authentic French food in Itaewon

Taco Chili Chili Thunder Burger

Gallery Through

Gecko's Garden Itaewon Foreign Bookstore

2

Itaewon Elementary School

ksa

pye o

ng

Stn

.

Old Stand 3 Alley Pub

Chadoljip No

Hillside

Tony's Aussie Bar

Petra

Les Deux Plats

Pattaya My Thai China

Cup&Bowl Wang Thai

What the Book?

Berlin

3

Diner

New York Story

Take the subway to Sinsa Station (Line 3) and walk to Garosu-gil B1, the bohemian, tree-lined street with restaurants, cafés and boutiques. This is a good place to get lunch.

Shop till you drop in Apgujeong-dong

02:00pm

Innisfree

Hamilton 143 E. Tailored Shirts Napoli Shopping District

Jonny Dumpling

Le Saigon

Tartine C3 02-3785-3400 www.tartine.co.kr Delicious Pies and Brunch and other wonderful desserts all hand made in our own kitchen Voted: Best in the Universe

Jamsil Stn. Jamsil Sports Complex Lotte Dept. Store The Ballerina Who Loved a B-boy

Lotte Hotel World Lotte World Charlotte Theater

Seokchon Lake (West)

Between

Villa S

Helios The Frypan CasAntonio (2F) Sortino’s Amigos (1F)

Hive

La Casera

Foreign Food Mart

Salam Bakery

Jankura Artspace

04:00pm

do. If you get here early, you can check out the aquarium, one of Korea’s largest (closes at 8pm, but admission ends at 7pm). The Megabox Cineplex and its 16 screens are very popular, especially on the weekends.

There’s always the shops, of course, and if you’re hungry, you’ll find more restaurants here than you can count (including the food court).

Nightlife

11:00 pm

Time for some clubbing! From COEX, make your way to Cheongdam-dong C1 to rub shoulders with some of Seoul’s most conspicuously wealthy youngsters and world-class DJs. Club Ellui D1, one of the largest in Asia, is a good place to start and maybe even finish. The area is also full of chic wine bars and lounges—try Ark Lounge C1, Lound C1 or Club Circle Lounge C1.

THINGS TO DO COEX

06:00pm

From Bongeunsa, walk to COEX D2, one of Asia’s largest shopping malls. You could spend hours here walking around; many

P

Itaewon Korean Red KT Fire Ginseng (Ita Pancho's Station Cheong-kwan-Jan Flow Ankara Picnic Moon Night Foreign Maharaja Restaurant Club After

My Old Asia

Want to see the contrast between old and new in its most extreme? Get on the subway, head to Samseong Station (Line 2), and walk to Bongeunsa Temple D1, founded in the 8th century. The view of the graceful Korean buildings, with the glittering skyscrapers of Gangnam looming just beyond them, really leaves an impression. Be sure to visit on Buddha’s Birthday, when it hosts a paper lantern exhibit.

Seokchon Lake (East)

Map 10 JAMSIL AREA

Nashville

Give your credit card a workout in nearby Apgujeong-dong B1/C1, Seoul’s ritziest neighborhood—the “Beverly Hills of Seoul” even has its own Rodeo Drive. The word “upmarket” doesn’t even begin to describe Galleria Luxury Hall, the ultra-high-end department store just up the road, with several exclusive European brand stores and a whole lot more (see p13).

Bongeunsa Temple Olympic Park

Caliente Gecko's Terrace

Authentic American Pies & Brunch

Noon

Homestead Coffee Itaewon Stn.

Hwangso Maeul

Crown Hotel

Sample Garosu-gil

What better way to work off breakfast than with a pleasant stroll at Seonjeongneung C2, a set of royal tombs dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The wooded pathways are a natural refuge in the heart of the big city.

Peter Choi

02-3785-3400

Club Volume

10:00 am

Tom N Toms

9am to 11 pm 365 Days a year

Hangang Middle School

3

The 1st Avenue

3

Yongsan-gu Office (Yongsan Art Center)

3

treet

KT Embassy of the Republic of the Philippines

Baebae

Wood stock

ue S

National Museum of Korea

Morning stroll at Seonjeongneung

Dillinger's Bar Seoul

Gukje Arcade

NICE Itaewon Exchange Market Center J's Closet EST 1894

Al-Saba

EXPLORING GANGNAM

Kim's Boutique

Dakorner

D'oro Hotel

Kodak Seoul Embassy Color Studio Pakistan Seoul Exchange M Center M Ali Baba (B

1

écumé Santorini 19st. Neal’s Yard

Eden Pottery

Foreign Exchange Seoul Arcade All American Booth

B1 Lounge Club Naked Bar & Grill The Flying Pan Moghul Blue District 4

La Plancha All That Jazz

Pishon

La Cigale/ Montmartre

Antiq

Yongsan Electronics Market

Smokey Saloon

Hamilton Hotel

Alley Market Main Street Gate Skin Food Suji's Cakeshop Gallery Golmok War Memorial of Korea

An Unparalleled Entertainment Experience, DISTRICT Offers Its Guests an Inviting Atmosphere, Sophisticated Modern Cuisine and World Class Entertainment In a Single Package. Three Venues, One District, Every Night. (Prost Pub&Grill, Glam Lounge, Club MUTE)

Buddha's Belly Scrooge Pub

Gra

Mt. Namsan N Seoul Tower

R&R at Spa G D2 (T.02-549-2073) Korea Ginseng Corp. has opened a spa utilizing the power of red ginseng.

43

Shopping, eating and a bit of culture

and Hyatt Hotel Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art

2 Chungsachorong

02-792-2296 www.nywc.co.kr

New York Wholistic Care E3 02-792-2296 Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care (Gwanghwamun Branch B4, p6 730-9896)

Valentine II

Life is just a cup of cake

Embassy of Belgium

Hangangjin Stn./ Blue Square (NEMO)

n

Gallery Seoul IP Club Boutique Rococo Muntaro Vin Hotel Vino Bombomb y of

Foreign Exchange Booth

GLOBAL Real Estate Macaroni High Street Market Market Boom Bar, 2F) Itaewon Global Cheil Communications Sortino Village Center Bean's Village Pier8 Pieroth Wines

Two Broz.

Rocky Montain Thai Bon et Beau Tavern Orchid Jubilee Chocolatier Mind Body Seoul aewon Plaza) ng 2

Seoul Central Mosque

Nightime

Party time

Itaewon has long been famous for its nightlife. The more upscale clubs and bars tend to be along the main drag, but you’ll find plenty of great places in the alleys, too. For a little piece of the old, pregentrification Itaewon, check out “Hooker Hill,” a collection of bars and clubs on a hill just south of the main street. Also nearby is “Homo Hill,” where you’ll find bars and clubs catering to Seoul’s LGBT community.

B

Tip

Hyundai Dept.

Store

Taking the bus out of Seoul

n Ha

Jamwon Pitch

Santorini C2 (T. 02-790-3474) Offers fine Greek food such as souvlaki and gyros made by a Greek chef.

In recent years, Itaewon has experienced a great deal of gentrification. Accordingly, it is now home to some of Seoul’s best international restaurants. Don’t forget to explore the back alleys, too, where you’ll find some great eateries, especially behind the Hamilton Hotel C2.

Head to the area around Seoul Central Mosque E3 to find the heart of Korea’s Muslim community. Around the mosque are some halal eateries and other shops.

If you’re in the mood for shopping, Itaewon is the place for large-size clothing, leather goods, bonded goods and tailored suits. 143 E. Napoli C3 (T. 02-976-3404), run by a former film art director, is one of the best places to pick up tailored fashion.

Itaewon is also home to the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art F1. Architecturally splendid and with a wonderful site on the slopes of Mt. Namsan D1, the museum holds one of Korea’s biggest collections of traditional and contemporary art. Check out the Louise Bourgeois spiders in the courtyard, too.

A

If you’re heading out of Seoul M by bus, you haveHannam two options.

Stn. Express buses (gosok beoseu) follow the highways, and are usually faster.Museum Inter-city buses National take non-highway routes. of Korea Express buses are boarded at Express Bus Terminal (for destinations in the Gyeongsang provinces and Gangwondo) and Central City Terminal (for destinations in the Jeolla provinces).

Daylight

Suji’s A3 (T. 02-797-3698) One of the most highly regarded brunch spots in Seoul.

Berlin A3 (T. 02-749-0903)

Petra A3 (T. 02-790-4433) Mean Arab cuisine, especially Jordanian food.

Classy wine bar overlooking Noksapyeong Station.

Nashville C3 (T. 02-798-1592)

A vibrant bar overlooking Itaewon Station.

This place—an Itaewon institution since it opened in 1982—does some great burgers and other American-style comfort food.

Gecko’s Garden C2 (T. 02-790-0540)

My Thai China C2 (T. 02-749-9287)

Gecko’s Terrace C3 (T. 02- 749-9425)

A popular night spot behind the Hamilton Hotel. It has a particularly nice outdoor atmosphere.

Buddha’s Belly C2 (T. 02-796-9330) Try for exotic Thai food.

Le Saint-Ex C2 (T. 02-795-2465)

Chinese and Thai cuisine in exotic, welldesigned surroundings. Owned by a famous Korean entertainer.

Two Broz. E3 (T. 02-790-0610) Handmade hamburgers with a classy flavor at friendly prices.

Delicious and authentic French food in Itaewon.

La Plancha C2 (T. 02-790-0063)

Between D2 (T. 02-795-6164)

écumé C3 (T. 02-3477-7378)

The new landmark in Itaewon—Enjoy contemporary Italian cuisine in Seoul.

The most stylish lounge and restaurant.

Restaurant, Lounge, Garden.

A restaurant that serves Italian cuisine.

19st. Neal’s Yard C3 (T. 02-794-7278)

Tartine C3 (T. 02-3785-3400)

Dessert specialty store.

Tartine Bakery & Café serves authentic and delicious pies and other desserts made in our own kitchen by hand.

Ankara Picnic D3 (T. 02-793-2550)

Luv Superlounge C2 (T. 010-8826-6777 / 010-4523-7654)

Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro A1 (T. 02-794-2537)

The only place to properly unwind in style.

Vin Vino E2 (T. 02-790-7043)

They serve Turkish kebabs and ice cream.

Korea’s only foreign-owned brewpub unveils its latest seasonal beer: Jirisan “Moon Bear” India Pale Ale.

A great place to have a glass of wine. Happy hour is every Wednesday, 6pm−midnight, with 50% off on glass wine.

Moghul C2 (T. 02-796-5501)

All American Diner B3 (T. 02-790-0411)

Sortino’s E3 (T. 02-797-0488)

Famous for its American-style breakfasts.

3 Alley Pub C2 (T. 02-749-3336) A popular expat hangout, it’s a European-

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Salsa Club Top Gallery Mad for Garlic Hyundai Apgujeong Tea Stn. M Therapy

Indian/Pakistani restaurant within a tranquil garden.

One of Seoul’s most popular Italian restaurants, this Itaewon eatery does great pasta and pizzas.

C

Galleria Dept. Store

D M

Ttukseom Resort Stn.

JYP Entertainment Cube Studio / Café

M

Aura

egyo

F

The National Theater of Korea

style pub with all the usual pub food.

Yeo ngd ong dae gyo

E

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

Che ongd amd a

EXPLORING ITAEWON

o gy

ae

md

na

Club Ellui Jungsikdang Dunkin Donuts Grill Apgujeong-dong Jang Cheon Art Hall Pierrot Strike Club Answer 1 Hangang A Twosome Place by 51K CGV 1 School Take Dosan Hotel Riviera Seoul Park Forever21 Samwon Garden Food Urban Park Col•l•age+ Space *C Avenue Juno Cube Secret Nail Doo Mercado C1 010-3080-3669 Entertainment Horim Boo Gangnam Garosu-gil 1 Meet stylist Shin Sun-ju, a Amapola Art Center Myeonok La Casa fluent English speaker who Butterfinger Cheongdam spent five years in the UK Brown breath Perché Pancakes Listen Super working for prestigious salons, Stn. M Lounge LG Fashion Pop-up Store including Vidal Sassoon and Toni&Guy. Yoondang Art Hall Platoon Kunsthalle M Gangnam-gu M Atelier Hermes IndiePlus Bongeunsa Temple Jamsil Area Office Stn. Club Museum of Intercontinental Johnson House Double Eight M Sinsa Stn. Korean Seoul COEX ASEM Tower Embroidery Gui Daehak Pro-Soy Crab M Imperial Palace Hak-dong Stn. Mango Six KEPCO Hotel M Jamwon Stn. Baekam Ramada Hwogo Jip COEX Club Art Hall Hotel Nonhyeon Stn. M Octagon Samjung M Seolleung Oakwood Hotel Park Hyatt Seonjeongneung Park The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul Premier Hotel 2 M Stn. Seonjeongneung Best Western Premier Banpo Stn. M Samseong Stn. Gang Nam Hotel Hotel The esigners Bamboo Grand Urban Hive House Club Heaven InterContinental Dulwich Ogada Central City(Shinsegae Dept. Store) Seoul Parnas College M Novotel Ambassador Gangnam Spa G M M SEOUL Sinnonhyeon Stn. M Club Eden LG Arts Seolleung Stn. Center Sapyeong Stn. Renaissance Hotel Seoul Kukkiwon M Gangnam Let's JW Marriott Kyobo Tower Sinbanpo play Yeoksam Stn. M Stn. Gangnam Stn. Area M M M Caffe Bene Chicken n´ Chips Selfbar Gangnam Finance Center Express Bus Evispomme 200 Brauhaus Terminal Stn. M Dental Hospital Shy Bana Mixxo M Gangnam Stn. Brooklyn the Burger Joint Java City 3 M Hanti Stn. Seorae Village Seorae Global Viva Luce Village Center Gangnam, literally “south of the river”, is Seoul’s relatively new and affluent The National neighborhoods south of the Hangang River. Here you’ll find upscale shopping, trendy M Bangbae Middle Library of Korea M School Apgujeongrodeo Stn. The

ge ow Brid inb po t Ra Ban nligh o Mo ntain Fou

M

Map 9 GANGNAM AREA

cafés and bars, big shopping malls and one of Korea’s most popular amusement parks.

119

118

255 Hogupo

256 Namdong Induspark

120

117

116

This government campaign website has details of great tourism offers.

Pre-paid tourism card offering discounts nationwide.

254 Incheon Nonhyeon

121

253 Soraepogu

122

Visit Korea Year Korea Pass

123

First stop for all things tourism-related Tourism, accommodation, events, dining and much more Answering most of your questions on Seoul in English and various other languages

Wolgot

259 258 Songdo Yeonsu

124

Ta ps eo k So ng sa n Eo ryo ng Go nja e Hy joa Gy e Go ong Of vern gi P fic m ro e en vin t c N Sa ort ial em he rn al Do ng o

Korea Tourism Organization Seoul Tourism Organization 120 Dasan Call Center

SI

754 Sinjung-dong 755 Bucheon City Hall 756 Sang-dong 757 Samsan 758 Gymnasium 759 Gulpocheon

Bucheon Stadium 752 753 Chunui

U 115

1330 120 120

114

113

111

110

http://english.visitkoreayear.com www.koreapass.or.kr/en

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr www.visitseoul.net

112

U Ju ijeon ng gb an u H g e un gs eo Ui n je Ci ong ty b Ha u ll Ui jeo ng bu B e om go l Ho ery on g Ba lgo k

Trained medical personnel on call 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. English spoken English language assistance may be limited.

English language may be limited.

See the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade’s website for a thorough list.

Emergency Medical Information Center Police Fire Foreign embassies in Korea

2144 Seonjeongneung

112 119

1339

www.mofat.go.kr

http://world.1339.or.kr

LRT Uijeongbu

Suin Line

Sinbundang Line

Gyeongui Line

Airport Railroad

Jungang Line

Bundang Line

Incheon Line 1

Line 9

Line 8

Line 7

Line 6

Line 5

Line 4

Line 3

Line 2

Line 1

SEOUL METRO

Seoul of zen

Inside it is your true form

Oriental medicine 45

GOUT

A PAINFUL WAKE-UP CALL

S Fooled by transitory form, I've made a lot of useless shadows with my age increasing.

Lost in following the shadows amidst the shadows, I have lost sight of even the shadow of my true form.

When can I return to my home?

Shadows amidst shadows, Your true form is in them.

Don't look anywhere else for it.

Freshness is prevailing everywhere today as usual.

ometimes the pain comes in the middle of the night and often in the big toe. An acute attack of gout can detract from a good night’s sleep. This condition reflects how strongly lifestyle, especially where eating habits are concerned, influences well-being.

In Western medicine, gout represents a recurrent acute arthritis of peripheral joints (especially the toes) that results from an increased serum uric acid level (hyperuricemia) that forms urate crystals that accumulate in tendons and joints at the ends of the extremities. This arthritis may become chronic and deforming. Uric acid is produced from the metabolic breakdown of purines. Purines, if not derived from diet, may stem from increased cell turnover with a high nucleoprotein (RNA/DNA) breakdown (which occurs in such diseases as lymphoma, leukemia, or hemolytic anemia). Alternatively, it may occur in cases where cellular proliferation and cell death is increased (such as psoriasis).

Characteristic symptoms during the acute stage are red, hot, swollen, and severely painful joints. The chronic stage is marked by elevated blood levels of uric acid, stiffness, and deformities of the joints. In addition, gout nodules manifest all over the body, but particularly around the joints and on the ears.

In some severe cases, gout-like symptoms could be a sign of a renal failure of some kind, which requires acute medical care.

In Korean medicine, this disorder is attributed to a combination of organic dysfunctions that mostly affect the Spleen/Pancreas and Kidney groups. General weakness of bodily qi combined with unregulated eating of heavy, sweet, and greasy food and the generous consumption of alcohol over many years can damage the spleen and stomach. This impairs the generation of energy and the separation of clear fluids from the turbid.

Hence, dampness and phlegm accumulate and begin to obstruct the flow of qi, which leads to pain.

A traditional Korean medical treatment will concentrate on improving the Spleen/Pancreas digestive group and Kidney function and dispersing the dampness and phlegm accumulation in the body. This calls for a combination of acupuncture and herbal remedies. Acupuncture directly addresses the qi blockages in the affected painful areas, while certain herbal remedies support Spleen/Pancreas and Kidney function and help to dissolve the congested phlegm. This treatment will be administered until the symptoms disappear.

Naturally, some changes in the diet need to be implemented. Foods rich in protein (such as red meat), alcohol, and smoking should be markedly reduced. Foods with high purine content, such as animal liver, kidney, heart, brain, eel, sardines, fish roe, seafood, beans, and fermented foods, should be avoided altogether. Instead, a healthy balanced diet, rich in whole foods, is highly recommended. Foods that are rich in potassium, such as bananas, spinach, and carrots, are especially helpful in reversing gout, as potassium aids in the breakdown of uric acid.

In most cases, gout is the result of an imbalanced diet that has been maintained for years. The good news is that gout is the kind of pain that, with a little attention to lifestyle choices, should never deprive us from a good night’s sleep.

Written by

MASTER SUBUL SUNIM Director of Anguk Zen Center and Dongguk University’s University International Seon Center Translated by Boo Ahm (Song Soo-kyong)

DR. RAIMUND ROYER (raimundroyer@jaseng.co.kr) is Korea’s only “Western” Oriental medical doctor and the medical director of the Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine’s International Clinic (www.jaseng.net). [ Map 9 C1]

A E T N GREE

E S R E V I D GETS A E R O K S K C U B R A T S T A

B

eginning January 1, Starbucks Coffee Korea has introduced items—soy two green tea-based beverage items soy green tea latte and espresso shot green tea latte.

The soy green tea latte uses locally-produced soy milk of the highest quality, and the espresso shot green tea latte is noted for its unique combination of bitter and sweet flavors. Both of these new items exclusively utilize the organic tea leaves grown on Jeju Island. The new additions come in short and tall sizes, which are priced at 5,400 won and 5,900 won, respectively.

The base ingredient of green tea powders is provided by Amore Pacific, a leading Korean tea product maker that grows organic green tea on Jeju Island under the Jangwon brand. Amore Pacific has been tapped as Starbucks’ partner through a rigorous selection process that reviewed the quality and hygiene status of the tea products, as well as the ethical standards, financial status, CSR activities, and production capacity of the contractor.

Starbucks Coffee Korea’s green tea varieties that use Jangwon’s organic tea leaves have passed the rigorous local certification standard required by the National Agricultural Products Quality Management Service, thus opening up an avenue for marketing them overseas.

A new set of dessert items have also been unveiled in timing with the introduction of the latest green tea beverage additions.

Now Starbucks patrons can enjoy the delightful combination of citron cheese mousse cake (115g) and yogurt layer cake (120g) together with its new green tea beverages. The new dessert items sell for 5,000 won.

Starbucks Coffee Korea has been strenuously campaigning for the localization of its products over the years. In 2006, it joined hands with Maeil, Korea’s leading dairy product maker, in order to introduce the Starbucks soy milk brand. In 2007, the largest coffee franchise of Korea signed a partnership agreement with Gyeonggi Province for the joint development and marketing of snacks such as rice bars, rice chips, and fruits mix using the province’s quality agricultural products.

“Green tea latte is our second-hottest item after espresso, and we find it meaningful to use locally-produced organic ingredients to make our green tea latte,” a Starbucks spokesperson said, noting that its new localization strategy would provide an opportunity for local farmers to increase their revenue and would promote the superb quality of Korean tea in overseas markets through Starbucks Korea’s tea products.

BECOME AN EXPERT ON KOREAN CULTURE WITH THE CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY OF KOREA’S ACE KOREA PROGRAM The Catholic University of Korea Hallyu Graduate School’s ACE (Attractive Cultural Experience) Korea Program is an interdisciplinary forum providing you with a richer, deeper understanding of Korea and its culture.

K-POP MUSIC BUSINESS

KOREAN AR TS

TERM: THURSDAYS, 7PM TO 8:30PM, MARCH–JUNE, 2013 APPLICATION PERIOD: DEC 3, 2012–FEB 28, 2013

KOREAN ECONOMY KOREAN BUDDHISM KOREAN TRA

DITIONAL MU

SIC

KOREAN BUS

• Lectures on all facets of Korean culture & society

INESS CULT

• Field trips and workshops

EMA AND S

• Perfect for diplomats and foreign business leaders

KOREAN CIN

URE

SOUTH & N

OCIETY

• Classes taught by superior professors • Wonderful opportunity to build global networks

ORTH KORE

A

T. (02) 2258-7730, 7765, 7766 | http://hallyu.catholic.ac.kr | hallyu@catholic.ac.kr