SEOUL (March 2013)

GANGNAM VS GANGBUK Y E O N G D E O K

B L U E

R O A D

ROCK CLIMBER KIM JA-IN O C C I D E N T A L W H I T E

D A Y

E A T S

S H O P P I N G

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

MARCH 2013

T R AV E L

I

CULTURE

GANGNAM STYLE GANGBUK STYLE

I

MAPS

ISSUE NO. 116

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Contents NO. 116

8 Exploring Seoul

GANGNAM VS GANGBUK Y E O N G D E O K

B L U E

R O A D

ROCK CLIMBER KIM JA-IN O C C I D E N T A L

Gangnam Style vs. Gangbuk Style

W H I T E

D A Y

E A T S

S H O P P I N G

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

MARCH 2013

T R AV E L

I

CULTURE

I

MAPS

ISSUE NO. 116

12 Seoul Travel Bits

GANGNAM STYLE

14 travel

Yeongdeok Blue Road 16 Korea Travel Bits

GANGBUK STYLE

18

History Walks

Ikseon-dong: Seoul’s Hanok Island 19

Seoul Sub→urban

Dongmyo Station 20

ISSN: 1599-9963

23

March 2013

Talk of the town

Cyber-Romance 24

Shopping

광고 문의 T R A V E L

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C U L T U R E

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White Day

Keeping the woman in your life happy

M A P S

26

Interview

No-haggle pricing

Kim Ja-in

광고가는 정찰제입니다

45

Seoul of zen & Oriental Medicine

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The Development of New Life

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About the Cover Gangnam Style inspired by Psy’s “Gangnam Style” (강남스타일) and Gangbuk Style inspired by Jeong Hyeong-don’s “Gangbuk Meotjaengi” (강북멋쟁이).

Models Na Da bin (as Psy) and Seo Yoo Mi (as Jeong Hyeong-don).

Stylist April Jackson (http://pinkfashionninja.blogspot.com).

Photographed by RAUM Studio Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designers Min So-young, Lee Bok-hyun, Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor Daisy Larios Contributors Violet Kim Daniel Gray Meagan Mastriani Robert J. Fouser

| Raimund Royer | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Ben Jackson

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MARCH AT A GLANCE

SUGGESTED SEOUL ITINERARIES DAY 1

2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] .

Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ].

Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest.

Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Learn what Gangnam Style really means

DAY 2

Explore the differences between Seoul’s Gangnam and Gangbuk regions. >p8–11

Heal on the Blue Road Yeongdeok’s Blue Road hiking trail is an opportunity to recharge and recover. >p14–15

Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ].

Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1].

Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

DAY 1

3 days / 2 nights Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2].

Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong.

Make your lady happy on White Day

Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Don’t disappoint the special woman in your life. >p24

Party like there’s no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdam-dong [ Map 9 C1].

DAY 2 Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park.

Welcome the colors of spring

Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch.

Korea’s scenic south is awash in spring hues. >p16–17

Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ] , including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2].

Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats.

Have a cup of tea in Ikseondong Discover the charms of Seoul’s unknown hanok district. >p18

Experience the Jeju Deulbul Festival Jejudo’s signature festival is truly a sight to behold. >p31

Take in art on the DMZ

See The Script

Installation artist Lee Eun-sook ponders national division with a display on the DMZ. >p28

Irish band The Script comes to Korea for the first time ever. >p29

Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].

DAY 3 Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3] .

Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3] .

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Exploring Seoul

GANGNAM STYLE

GANGBUK STYLE

Written by Violet Kim Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

SEOUL’S FLASHY SOUTH AND HISTORIC NORTH ARE TWO FUN SIDES TO THE SAME COIN

E

very city has its competing districts, whether it’s East and West London, Brooklyn and Manhattan, or Left Bank and Right Bank. Seoul is divided along the Hangang River, which splits the city into Gangnam, south of the river, and Gangbuk, north of the river.

Gangnam literally means south of the river, but the word usually refers to the district of Gangnam-gu and the adjacent districts of Seocho-gu and Songpa-gu. Gangnam trades in business, beauty, and education. It’s home to the city’s wealthiest. It’s the established plastic surgery mecca of the peninsula. And it’s where hagwons, or cram schools, prevail.

Gangbuk is a bit harder to encapsulate, referring less to the actual district of Gangbuk-gu than a broad swathe north of the Hangang, comprised of multiple districts with distinct characteristics. Seoul’s political heart Jongno-gu is worlds away from the music and art scenes in Mapo-gu, home to Hongik University.

And each side has its own winners for the the best views, best shopping, best tourist destinations, and best nightlife. All of which convince us that competition can only be a healthy thing if it gives us not one, but two “bests” for each category.

Gangnam Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel

Best Views Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain 반포대교 달빛무지개 분수 One of the most famous views of the Hangang River is south of it at the Moonlight Rainbow Fountain. Jets of water cascade down the side of Banpo Bridge accompanied by music and lights. Like Gangnam itself, the Moonlight Rainbow Fountain is glittery, showy, and unapologetically excessive. Fans of the Korean soap opera might also recognize the site as the backdrop to many a teary confession.

The fountain plays from April to October, with 15-minute shows starting at noon and ending at 9:30pm. [ Map 9 A1]

Gangbuk

Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel 그랜드하얏트서울 호텔 The iconic N Seoul Tower (formerly Namsan Tower) on Namsan may be the go-to landmark for good Gangbuk views, but the problem with the view from a landmark is that the view doesn’t include the landmark itself. An alternative to that—and to the touristy hordes at the tower—is the Grand Hyatt in central Seoul, just above the river. Its convenient location atop Namsan means you don’t have to climb a tower for a view. You can relax with a cocktail at the Paris Bar or go for coffee at the Lobby Lounge. Or just remain in the lobby.

Banpo Bridge’s Moonlight Rainbow Fountain

9

Best Tourist Destination Dosan Park 도산공원 Gangnam’s tourist treasure is the entire area around Dosan Park, an enclave of greenery in the trendy Sinsadong neighborhood. Dosan Park makes up for its lack of traditional architecture with fetching cafes and well-dressed locals. You’re more likely to find brunch restaurants than bibimbap joints here, but that kind of love affair with cute Western-inspired dining and shopping is just as Seoul as anything else, and very much Gangnam.

T. 02-543-2558 [ Map 9 C1]

Bukchon 북촌

T. 02-797-1234 www.seoul.grand.hyatt.com [ Map 8 E1]

Gangbuk has a wealth of historically significant palaces, gardens, and gates. The best-known palace is the imposing Gyeongbokgung Palace. But the smaller Changdeokgung Palace, with its beautiful garden noted for its elegant and quintessentially “Eastern” topography. To the rear of the palace within walking distance is Bukchon Hanok Village, a hilly neighborhood of traditional Korean-style residences with distinctive scalloped roofs and wooden beams.

Gyeongbokgung Palace: www.royalpalace.go.kr Changdeokgung Palace: www.cdg.go.kr Bukchon Hanok Village: http://bukchon.seoul.go.kr [ Map 1 ], [ Map 3 ]

Exploring Seoul

Best Nightlife Ellui & Octagon 엘루이 & 옥타곤 Gangnam’s best nightlife can be found in the cluster of swanky EDM clubs in the Cheongdam and Nonhyun areas. Cheongdamdong’s clubs change names as frequently as strip dancers change aliases, so it can be difficult to keep up with the trendiest spots. But the rule of thumb is that newer is better, and the reigning venues of the moment are the massive Ellui and luxurious Octagon, the newest additions to the lineup. Both clubs have top-notch sound systems and would be packed to the rafters each weekend if not for their high ceilings.

Club Octagon T. 02-516-8847 http://cluboctagon.co.kr

Ellui T. 02-549-2073 http://ellui.net

[ Map 9 B2]

[ Map 9 D1]

Hongdae Area 홍대 지역 Despite the rise of lounge bars like Itaewon’s District, the cradle of Gangbuk nightlife is still in Hongdae, the area near Hongik University. For some, the increasing gentrification in the district means that it’s no longer the fountainhead of underground culture that it supposedly was before. But that doesn’t matter for the nightlife, which is as variegated and vibrant as ever. Compared to Gangnam, it’s also grimier and closer to the ground—many Hongdae clubs are literally located below ground level. There are hip-hop clubs like NB2 (Noise Basement) packed nightly, nostalgic bars that play retro music from the 70s and 80s, live music venues for every possible genre of alternative music, and veteran club M2 for your techno fix, just to name a few. What Hongdae venues lack in size they make up for in their number and diversity. The crowds are collegiate, meaning prices are also lower.

NB2 02-333-2769 [ Map 7 D1]

M2 02-3143-7573 http://ohoo.net/m2 [ Map 7 E2]

Photographed by Crystal Yun

11 Best Shopping Galleria Department Store 갤러리아 백화점 The Galleria Department Store in Apgujeong has traditionally been the archetype of the Gangnam department store—luxury brands galore and patrons who can afford them. With the rise of strip malls, outlet malls, and showrooming, you might expect the Galleria to face some stiff competition, but the Galleria keeps itself relevant by keeping things compact and convenient within its five floors. Rather than going for sheer volume, it stocks brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Seoul, and true to its name it eschews the plain grays of many department store exteriors for its easily recognizable, tiled, iridescent, love-it-or-hate-it facade.

T. 02-3449-4114 http://dept.galleria.co.kr [ Map 9 C1]

Dongdaemun Area 동대문 지역 In Gangbuk you can hit the latest megamall or take a deep breath and dive into the crowds at Myeongdong, the unofficial center of shopping in central Seoul. But the best Gangbuk shopping is in the area around Dongdaemun, a sprawling complex of malls and markets. Malls such as Doota (Doosan Tower) stock brands you’ve probably never heard of and clothes you might never want to try along with trendy, low-priced items that you can haggle for. Other nearby specialized markets sell everything from food to fabrics.

www.dongdaemun.com [ Map 5 ]

Photograph courtesy of Galleria Department Store

Seoul travel bits Hongdae

Sinchon

홍대

Stop hibernating—it’s time to kick into action. Its creative energy, artsy community, and bars and clubs are all legitimate reasons for conquering the night at Hongdae. Hit up your club of choice by purchasing a Club Day bracelet for 20,000 won, which will get you into each of the 20-plus participating clubs.

신촌

Sinchon is a playground for youth thanks to its location, as it’s surrounded by three prominent universities. During the day, the sidewalks are crowded with young people walking to or from class or lunch or en route to one of the ubiquitous coffee shops in the area. In the evenings, this area transforms, exhibiting a party-like atmosphere with its bright neon signs and various kinds of pubs specializing in beer, soju, makgeolli (rice wine), and much more.

Let’s Eat Alley (먹자골목) is packed with restaurants and bars; this area is quite popular for drinking in the evenings. At night, restaurant employees often stand outside and solicit patronage.

The U-Plex Mall, run by the Hyundai Department Store, carries a plethora of fashion items and general merchandise for young people.

Yonsei University has a green, hilly campus with an attractive quad of ivy-clad, collegiate buildings. With its benches and woods, it’s a perfect place for a walk through nature.

Tourist Information Center: [ Map 6 B1] [ Map 6 ]

Bonjour Hawaii is a unique brief getaway from quirky Hongdae—a nice place to lounge around with friends and Tiki drinks.

Unlike the other stores handling mostly “hippie” merchandise, Platform Place and STYLE NANDA, for men and women respectively, carry pricier import brands and fashion items like shoes, casual wear, books, bags, and cosmetics.

Meander around the campus of Korea’s hallmark fine arts college, Hongik University. On-campus art exhibits and other activities are worth checking out.

Tourist Information Center: [ Map 8 C3] [ Map 8 ]

Samcheong-dong

삼청동

Samcheong-dong’s unique mix of traditional hanok-style buildings, modern art galleries, comfy cafés, and excellent restaurants makes it a huge draw. Samcheong-dong is a melting pot of old and new, East and West, that wonderfully demonstrates Seoul’s evolving culture. Taking a walk and appreciating this peaceful, quaint area is a journey in itself.

Check out El Casa for tapas. This eatery is a Spanish restaurant and features mostly seafood.

The two-story building has large windows and an atmosphere like a Spanish home.

The newly-opened Kiehl’s Boutique is stocked with the latest cosmetics, haircare, skincare items from New York.

Ansan Mountain

안산

Yonsei’s campus is bordered to the north by Ansan Mountain, which serves as a natural park popular among both residents and students. Its hiking trails lead you to a smoke signal station from the Joseon Dynasty at the summit, where you can enjoy a great view of the city. How about including hiking up Ansan in your plans for a perfect day in Sinchon?

Restaurants abound by its northern entrance near Hongje Station 홍제역 and open in the morning hours for early bird hikers.

Street peddlers put rudimentary alpine items like hiking sticks, goggles, and towels on sale, as well as iced water bottles and portable radios.

You can stop by Bongwonsa Temple near the east gate of Yonsei. Independence movement historic sites such as the Seodaemun Prison History Hall and Independence Gate are located near Hongje Station. www.sdm.go.kr The road to Muak Dormitory on Yonsei’s campus connects to one of the mountain’s entrances, while an eastern entrance is located near Bongwonsa Temple.

No other district in Seoul offers a higher concentration of contemporary art galleries and shops than this area. Hak Go Jae and Gallery Hyundai garner much of Korea’s critical acclaim, as do Kukje and Artsonje Galleries.

Tourist Information Center: [ Map 3 B3] [ Map 3 ]

13 Samcheonggak

삼청각

Samcheonggak is an exclusive Korean restaurant located on top of a hill near the presidential Blue House. Besides the modern main dining hall, there are also beautiful hanok buildings that can be used for private functions such as weddings or banquets. If you want to visit this place for the experience and just enjoy light refreshments, a casual restaurant is available also.

Its menu features an impressive spread of delicious Korean dishes that have traditionally been enjoyed by royal and aristocratic families.

Beginning at 11am from Monday to Friday, a special lunch concert program allows for an exciting chance to experience Korea’s traditional performing arts while dining. Tickets cost 50,000 and 70,000 won.

T. 02-765-3700, www.samcheonggak.or.kr The set menu price ranges from 50,000 won to 150,000 won per person.

Take the free shuttle bus running hourly in front of Kyobo Book Centre.

Seorae Village

National Museum of Art, Deoksugung

서래마을

A little place called Seorae Village has become home to around 600 French people, roughly 40% of Korea’s total French population, due to the establishment of a French school in the 1980s. There are loads of exotic French cafés, French- and Italian-style restaurants, cheese shops, wine bars, bakeries, and French chain stores like L’Occitane.

덕수궁 미술관

Two prominent exhibits are underway till April 21. In Memory of Landscape I Have Never Seen, a high-profile collection from the National Gallery in Prague showcases 107 pieces of carefully selected paintings from 28 different Czech artists. A group of modern masterpieces from Korea is also on display, featuring Lee Jung-sup, Park Soo-keun, and Kim Whan-ki, among many other artists. Admission is 12,000 won and free, respectively.

Hotel Douce is a charming space offering dozens of French desserts, ranging from eclairs, macarons, and canneles bordelais to sherbet, cookies, cakes, and chocolates.

Maison de Paris is an upscale home decoration store that carries antique furniture, tablecloths, curtains, gardening tools, linens, baby wear, and some fancy gift items.

The village is flanked by hilly Montmartre Park, a perfect place for a walk after dining in one of the fine restaurants or cafes around here.

Seorae Global Village Center: T. 02-2155-8949, [ Map 9 A3] [ Map 9 A3]

Ohyang Jokbal 오향 족발 serves five-spice pigs trotters that are immensely popular due to its secret recipe, which seeks to reduce the intense smell of the meat using five different spices.

The nearby Jongno area is a major shopping district, and Namdaemun Market is within walking distance.

The museum is part of Deoksugung Palace, which vividly contrasts modern Seoul with traditional Korea.

Built during the mid-15th century, it is the smallest of Seoul’s palaces. www.moca.go.kr T. 02-2188-6000 [ Map 1 B4]

National Library of Korea

국립중앙도서관

A ten-minute walk from the bustling Express Bus Terminal and Central City shopping mall will lead you here. It houses over 7 million volumes, manuscripts, and periodicals, including over 840,000 foreign books and a vast digital archive. It would be nice to visit the library and spend some time reading before going on a trip out of Seoul.

Central City is home to a myriad of fine restaurants, and there is a large food court on the basement floor of Shinsegae Department Store.

Central City is much like a city within a city, bringing together Shinsegae, Youngpoong Bookstore, Central Terminal, the Cinus theater complex, and the JW Marriott Hotel.

Seoripul Park, which flanks the library, is connected to Montmartre Park across the street through an overpass structure called the Silkworm Bridge. Southern Seoul used to be a hub for silk production in dynastic times. www.nl.go.kr (Korean, English, Japanese) [ Map 9 A4]

travel

YEONGDEOK BLUE ROAD

영덕 블루로드

CRABS, SUNRISES, AND SEA ON KOREA’S ROAD OF HEALING Written by Robert Koehler Photographs courtesy of Yeongdeok-gun Office

I

n January, the Korea Tourism Organization conducted a poll of Korean Internet users, asking them to choose the top 100 tourist sites in the country.

Yeongdeok’s Blue Road came in twelfth.

A 64 km hiking trail that runs along Korea’s East Sea coast, the Yeongdeok Blue Road is about more than just fine scenery, although there’s plenty of that, too. Like the famous Jeju Olle Trails, the Blue Road is about “healing”: overcoming the pain and suffering we endure in our daily lives, very often through our own mistakes.

Here on the Yeongdeok Blue Road, the hills, wind, and vast blue sea cleanse our souls, making us whole again.

Four paths to healing The rural district of Yeongdeok is located in the southeastern province of Gyeongsangbuk-do. It’s a place of fishing villages, beaches, and mountains, but Koreans best know it for its delicious snow crab. Until recently, it was something of a backwater, a charming but quiet town safely removed from the tourist trail.

That began to change in 2010. Inspired by Jejudo, where the Olle Trails became a national sensation, Yeongdeok decided to put its own spectacular— if underappreciated—scenery to good use. The town crafted a series of easily walkable paths linking the beautiful seashore with scenic overlooks and rustic fishing villages. To ease navigation, the paths were marked with distinctive signs.

All together, the Blue Road, as this new path was called, runs 64.6 km, from Daege Park (Snow Crab Park) in the south nearly to the county border with Uljin in the north. You needn’t hike it all at once, though—the path is divided into four sections, each with their own theme.

Snow crabs in Ganggu

Course A (17.5 km, six hours) This course, named the Light and Wind Path, takes you from the fishing port of Ganggu in the south to Sunrise Park in the north.

Yeongdeok’s main fishing port, Ganggu is packed with snow crab restaurants and is a great place to energize before your hike. One of the more scenic spots along this trail is the wind farm near the end of the hike. It’s especially lovely at sunrise and sunset, when the wind turbines are silhouetted against the sky. If you’re doing a multiday hike you can stay in one of the uniquely designed cylindrical trailers of Sunrise Campground and take in the next day’s sunrise from the bluffs of Sunrise Park.

Wind farm on the Blue Road

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Goraebul Beach

Course B (15.5 km, 5 hours) The Path of Blue Snow Crabs takes you along the hills overlooking the sea from Sunrise Park to the port of Juksanghang. There are plenty of vistas to enjoy from the rocky bluffs above the water. Like Ganggu, Juksanghang is a major crabbing port. It’s not as commercialized as Ganggu, but this lends it an even greater charm that is accentuated by its setting between the hills and the sea.

Course C (17.5 km, 6 hours) This pleasant course combines mountains and the sea for a truly lovely hiking experience. This course gets even lovelier in autumn, when the rice fields turn golden. A highlight of this course is Goesiri Traditional Village, the ancestral home of the Yeongyang Goesi

branch of the Nam family, one of the Joseon Dynasty aristocratic lines. Some of the homes here are over 200 years old. The end of the path is Goraebul (Whale Horn) Beach, a popular destination in summer so named because of the spouting whales that can sometimes be seen off the coast. Goraebul Beach also marks the northernmost post of the Blue Road.

Course D (15 km, 5 hours) The Indigo Wave path, as it is called, is a later addition to the trail and runs along the coastline south of Course A from Daege (Snow Crab) Park to Ganggu.

This is a relaxing coastal walk, complete with parks and an exhibit hall where you can learn more about life in Korea’s fishing villages. An especially nice stretch is a small pier built above the waves.

Daejin Beach

Pier on Course D

Yeongdeok is virtually synonymous with the snow crab. The port of Ganggu alone has about 300 snow crab restaurants. Yeongdeok snow crabs are sold throughout Korea, but the ones in Yeongdeok are both the freshest (naturally) and the cheapest. That doesn’t make mean they’re cheap, though. Ordinary snow crabs usually cost 10,000–20,000 won, but the really good crabs—the bakdal snow crab 박달대게—can run you over 100,000 won, depending on the weight. The crabs are usually steamed. While delicious, they don’t make for the easiest eating, but many restaurants will teach you how to navigate the tasty crustacean.

One of the nicest spots to stay is Sunrise Park campground (T. 054-730-6337) with its cylindrical “capsule houses” for 70,000 won a night on peak weekends (July and August) and 56,000 won on off-peak weekends.

The views are nice, and you’re right next to Sunrise Park, one of Korea’s top sunrise destinations.

There are only 10 rooms, so be sure to reserve a place first! You can also find a number of reasonably priced hotels/motels in Ganggu, and there are a number of guesthouses, pensions, and homestays along the trails, too. http://blueroad.yd.go.kr There are nine buses a day to Yeongdeok from Dong Seoul Terminal (travel time: 4 hours, 20 minutes).

The first one departs at 7am.

TIP Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival (Mar 28–Apr 1) Yeongdeok’s contribution to Korean cuisine is given its just due during the Yeongdeok Snow Crab Festival. Ganggu hosts a variety of snow crab-related events, including a public crab auction where you can buy crabs at especially low prices.

Road to Mt. Jukdosan

Korea Travel Bits

MARCH GETAWAYS Seomjingang River

섬진강

Seomjingang River constitutes much of the borderline between Jeollanam-do and Gyeongsangnam-do. The word seomjin literally means “toad ferry.” According to legend, a swarm of toads blocked the invading Japanese army from crossing the Seomjingang River into Jeollabuk-do in the 1590s. Walking along the miles-long river embankment brings back fond memories of the past. A wide variety of animals are found along the river, including European otters. There is an otter observation point along the way. In Gokseong County, the Seomjingang National Astronomical Observatory welcomes tourists and aspiring space scientists alike.

A nice and hot bowl of jaecheop soup is definitely worth trying. The shellfish grows only in fresh water of the highest quality and is widely known as an effective hangover cure in Korea.

Courtesy of Gurye County Festival Promotion Committee

Gurye Sansuyu Festival

구례산수유꽃축제

A traditional village attracts keen attention as it is designed to revisit a folktale based on Sim Cheong, a filial daughter who offers herself for sacrifice in return for the well-being of her blind father.

A famous steam locomotive line for tourists runs along the river for 15 minutes. To catch the train, visit Seomjingang Train Village 섬진강 기차마을 (T. 061-363-6714, www.gstrain.co.kr) in Gokseong County, where you can also opt for rail bikes.

Various lodging options, including modest motels and log homes, are available.

The winter snow has yet to melt off the high Jirisan peaks, but already the sansuyu cornel tree villages located on the foothills are painted a brilliant golden yellow. The Jeollanam-do town of Gurye will hold its annual Sansuyu Festival March 29–31.

Sandong Township, the festival site, is home to the country’s largest colony of sansuyu trees. The flowers are made into tea, alcohol, and food, all of which can be sampled at this festival. The festival wouldn’t be complete without a hike on Mt. Jirisan to really appreciate the yellow splendor blanketing the mountain.

www.simcheong.com www.gokseong.go.kr Take a bus for Gwangju Terminal at Central City Express Bus Terminal.

Then take a nonstop bus for Gurye at Gwangju and get off at Gokseong.

The local treat at this time of year is the crabs that brood in the area connecting the river and sea.

Gurye is also home to the ancient Hwaeomsa Temple 화엄사, which houses four National Treasures of Korea. Come here to visit the head temple of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism.

Satellite events include a ceremony for a good harvest, traditional music concert, singing contest, fireworks display, and much more. Visitors can take leisurely walks around the area and take a dip at the nearby hot springs.

A wide diversity of accommodations, including the upscale Songwon Resort 송원리조트 (T. 061-780-8000, www.swresort.co.kr), are available near the hot springs.

T. 061-780-2727, 061-780-2390 htttp://sansuyu.gurye.go.kr From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus to Gurye. Travel time is over 3 hours.

From Gurye, take a local bus bound for Sandong and get off at Sandong Hot Springs.

Courtesy of Gwangyang City Hall

Chuncheon City Tour

춘천시티투어

Chuncheon, the capital of Gangwon Province, is literally a lake city, as it sits on a basin surrounded by lakes, rivers and hills. It is a popular day trip destination. One of the best ways to get an overview of Chuncheon is through the Chuncheon City Tour, which departs daily from Chuncheon Station. The tour course varies slightly depending on the day of the week. During lunch, passengers are let off the bus for free time at a street lined with restaurants. The city is also known as the filming location for the popular Korean drama Winter Sonata. As popularity of the drama spread overseas, Chuncheon has become a popular travel destination for international tourists from Asia.

Courtesy of Gwangyang City Hall

Gwangyang International Maehwa Festival 광양국제매화축제 Head out to Gwangyang, the eastern edge of Jeollanam-do bordering the South Sea where the annual maehwa (apricot flower) festival will take place March 23–31. In springtime, Maehwa Village, the festival site, becomes a most splendid landscape as the apricot flowers burst into bloom. Picture-taking is by far the most popular thing to do, as families and friends preserve their memories of a beautiful spring day. A maehwa blossom photo contest, opportunities to learn traditional Korean drawing, and a variety of other craft-filled opportunities will also go on at the event. This festival truly shows the splendors of Korea’s countryside and even an occasional glimpse into the past.

Visitors are highly encouraged to try dakgalbi (stir-fried chicken) or makguksu (buckwheat noodle dish), both of which are local specialty dishes of Chuncheon.

Aquatic sports are very popular. There are regular ferries at Soyangho, Uiam, and Chuncheon Lakes, and fishing in these areas is a common scene.

Chuncheon and its vicinities have a great deal of tourist attractions, including Namiseom, Jungdo Island, Cheongpyeongsa Temple, the Gongjicheon area, Wido Island, Soyanggang River, Samaksan Mountain, and Gugok Waterfall.

There are many lodging facilities located near the Chuncheon Intercity Bus Terminal. http://tour.chuncheon.go.kr T. 033-241-5533, www.haniltour.co.kr/nano/www/sub3_1.php, Trains depart from Seoul’s Cheongnyangni Station. Buses come every 15 minutes at Dong Seoul Bus Terminal. Approximately a 1-hour 30-minute trip.

Hungry festival goers can indulge in the smorgasbord of local specialties as well as food and drink made with maesil (apricot fruit and flowers). Judging from the many bulgogi restaurants in Seoul that flash “Gwangyang” in their signage, Gwangyang is in a sense regarded as a mecca of this dish.

Close to Gwangyang is Suncheon, which is known for its ecological park and many species of birds.

Yeosu, the site of the flamboyant world expo last year, sits just around the corner in the region.

The festival also features a schedule of traditional and modern performances, from samulnori (traditional percussion music) to pop song contests.

Abundant accommodation options are available in this eco-friendly tourist area.

T. 061-797-3714 www.gwangyang.go.kr/gymaehwa Buses for Gwangyang depart from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal and Nambu Bus Terminal.

Courtesy of Chuncheon City Hall

17 Provence Village

프로방스 마을

Having started out as a French restaurant back in 1996, Provence Village in Paju is now a theme village with art and interior design stores and a number of cafes, patio restaurants, and bakeries. Warm sunlight embraces this beautiful village of fairy tales.

This place feels like the home of cartoon characters. Provence is also famous for its herbs. Delicious, aromatic, and fragrant herbal scents will stay with you in this village.

Various household items and decorative items such as hand-painted ceramics are available for purchase in the Living Hall. The Fashion Gallery consists of shops offering clothing, accessories, and interior design items.

Courtesy of Korail Tourism Development

Spring Flowers Train Tours

봄꽃 테마 관광 열차

Touring the countryside in the spring is always scenic and adds an element of nostalgia and romanticism. Tour operators like 7788 Tour Rail have prepared daily programs combining special trains and charter buses for tourists bound for Gurye and Gwangyang’s flower festivals. Tickets cost 72,000 won on weekdays and 92,000 won on weekends. Organized by Korail Travel, special trains go to other flower festival sites. The most popular cherry blossom festival is in Jinhae, Gyeongsangnam-do, where approximately 35,000 cherry trees are planted. Gyeongju in Gyeongsangbuk-do transforms itself into a blooming garden filled with cherry blossoms and bright yellow rape flowers.

Top-notch bakers offer artistic cookies and cakes made from natural ingredients. Cafés decorated with natural themes (wood, water, and plants) are full of aromatic Arabian coffee. The scent of coffee harmonizing with the delicious aroma of bread will draw you irresistibly into the café.

Located in its vicinity is the beautifully-designed Paju Premium Outlet 파주프리미엄 아울렛 (www. premiumoutlets.co.kr), which consists of 165 stores from top-notch brands, including import lines such as Jill Sanders, Tory Burch, Levi’s, Armani, and Calvin Klein.

The nearby Heyri Art Valley 헤이리 예술마을 (www.heyri.net) is home to over 40 cultural establishments like museum spaces and concert halls.

T. 1644-8088 www.provence.co.kr Take the No. 200 bus from Hapjeong Station 합정역 (Line 2), Baekseok 백석역 (Line 3), Madu 마두역 (Line 3), or Daehwa Station 대화역 (Line 3) and get off at Seongdong Intersection.

Gyeongju is famous for its Hwangnam bread , which is made from thin dough and filled with a generous amount of red bean paste. If you want a souvenir at an affordable price, it is highly recommended.

Jinhae plays host to the Jinhae Gunhang (Naval Port) Festival in early April. The port city is home to the country’s Navy shipyard and base facilities, as well as the Naval Academy.

The ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom, Gyeongju is a living museum and home to historical treasures such as the Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple.

These daily tour packages do not include accommodation. www.korailtravel.com T. 1600-7788, www.7788.co.kr

Coutesy of Provence Village

No need to worry about arranging transportation on these train-based package programs.

MBC Dramia

MBC 드라미아

If you are an ardent K-drama fan, MBC Dramia in Yongin is the place to go. It is a vast multiplex set that has served as a filming location for hugely popular Korean historical dramas. The theme park consists of various traditional buildings like palace structures and noble homes that were reproduced according to accurate historical records and actual models. Some of the dramas filmed here by MBC include Dong Yi, Queen Seondeok, Yi San, and The Duo. The establishment is a joint venture between the network and Yongin Municipal Government. Admission is 7,000 won for adults.

Try a plate of sundae or sundaeguk soup while you are in the Baegam township of Yongin, which is the birthplace of the popular Baegam-style sundae. Sundae is a Korean dish made by steaming pig intestine sausages stuffed with noodles and vegetables.

Courtesy of Korean Folk Village

Korean Folk Village

한국민속촌

The Korean Folk Village features reproductions of life in the late Joseon period. Set on an expansive 243-acre site, the village showcases the cultures and lifestyles of each social class, with 270 or so restored traditional houses and 30,000 folk materials and artifacts on exhibit. Get a close look at numerous workshops demonstrating centuriesold craftsmanship in the art of pottery, blacksmith, bamboo craft, paper manufacturing, wooden craft, glazed pottery, straw craft, willow craft, handheld fans, cotton looms, silk looms, and brassware.

Visitors have the opportunity to wear traditional costumes for photo sessions and can participate in archery, flag making, and top spinning.

Photographs of major scenes from the dramas are on display, while real-life images of the starring actors and actresses are set up for visitors to take photos with.

Even though a day trip is recommended, there are numerous lodging facilities available in the region. http://withmbc.imbc.com/dramia/main An intercity bus to Yongin’s Baegam Terminal departs from Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal. From Baegam, the No. 35-1 bus goes to the site. By taxi, it takes 10 minutes and costs about 8,000 won.

A number of restaurants cluster together like in a rural market and offer the exotic flavors of Korean cuisine from different regions. Classy restaurant outlets offer a more delicate selection of Korean food that was once relished by the nobility.

An amusement park section has rides and games, an art museum, a sculpture garden, a Korean Folk Museum, and a World Folk Museum, which highlights traditional lifestyles from around the world.

The village presents farmer’s music and dance, acrobatics on a tightrope, and a traditional wedding ceremony on a daily basis. Additionally, TV stations film their period drama series here.

An in-house youth hostel can accommodate more than 500 visitors.

T. 031-288-0000 www.koreanfolk.co.kr Take the No. 5001-1 bus at Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2), Exit 10. Travel time is 40 minutes.

Courtesy of MBC Dramia

History Walks

SEOUL’S HANOK ISLAND

UNHYEONGUNG ROYAL RESIDENCE AND IKSEON-DONG 운현궁과 익선동

Written by Robert J. Fouser Written

by Robert J. Fouser Photographed

by Robert Koehler Photographed by Robert Koehler

S

Tteuran tea house

Unhyeongung Palace

Unhyeongung Royal Residence T. 02-766-9090, www.unhyeongung.or.kr Tteuran T. 02-745-7420 [ Map 2 D1/D2]

eoul is full of surprises in the most unlikely of places. The eclectic area that sits between Insadong to the west and Jongmyo to the east is the quintessential surprising place in the center of Seoul.

The best way to begin exploring the area is to leave Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3) from Exit 4. The first stop is Unhyeongung Royal Residence 운현궁, originally built in the 14th century and rebuilt many times since, most recently in the 1860s. Heungseon Daewongun (1820–1898), the powerful prince regent of Korea during the minority of his son King Gojong (r. 1863– 1907), lived in the palace. Heungseon Daewongun is remembered for his isolationism and sponsorship of vast rebuilding projects in Seoul.

The current buildings date from the 1860s and were restored in 1993 by the Seoul city government.

The palace is an excellent example of a detached palace that housed members of the royal family during the Joseon Dynasty. The four remaining traditional buildings are excellent examples of traditional palace architecture. King Gojong and Empress Myeongseong (1851–1895) were married in the palace in 1866, and a reenactment of the royal wedding takes place every year in the spring and fall. Empress Myeongseong, commonly referred to as Queen Min, was assassinated in 1895 under orders from the Japanese Minister to Korea because of her anti-Japanese leanings. The palace is open from 9am to 6pm (November to March) and from 9am to 7pm (April to October).

Behind the palace is the white baroque style Unhyeongung Yanggwan 운현궁양관 that sits on the campus of Deokseong University. Built in 1912 by the Yi Jun, the grandson of the Heungseon Daewongun, the house now sits on the campus of Duksung Women’s University.

From the Unhyeongung Royal Residence, head south and walk past an elementary school. Turn left, walk past the Crown Hotel, and then turn right at the next alley, walking past a parking lot on your left. Go straight until the end of the alley and then turn right.

This brings you to the entrance of Ikseon-dong 익선동,

the largest concentration of hanok, or traditional Korean-style houses, outside of Bukchon. Unlike Bukchon, none of the hanok in Ikseon-dong have been renovated because the area is still in midst of a heated debate over redevelopment plans. The debate over redevelopment has inhibited owners from maintaining their houses, leaving many badly in need of repair.

Despite the problems, however, Ikseon-dong is the best example of an authentic 20th-century hanok neighborhood. Ikseon-dong is also important in the history of hanok because it is the second “hanok development” of the 1930s in which developers built rows of traditional-style Korean houses of similar size.

The declining economic fortunes of the royal family and aristocratic estates during the Japanese colonial period (1910–45) forced owners to sell land in central Seoul. Developers bought the land and then divided it into small lots and built alleys on a grid. The first hanok development was the large houses in Gahoidong, but the houses in the Ikseon-dong development where smaller and less expensive.

The heart of Ikseon-dong is four long north–south alleys, all lined with hanok. Weave through the alleys and notice the individual character of each house.

The decorations on the doors and the material and decoration on the walls all differ. The houses have undergone layers of change since the 1930s, and today many of the houses are used as boarding houses, with different people renting a room or two in the same house.

After walking through the alleys, walk toward the entrance of Ikseon-dong and take note of Tteuran 뜰안 (T. 02-745-7420), a tea house at the end of the alley near the parking lot. The tea house serves traditional Korean tea and offers a rare chance to see the inside of an Ikseon-dong hanok. From there, return to the street with the Crown Hotel and walk to the corner. Going straight takes you to Insa-dong, with its traditional shops and restaurants. Turning right takes you back to Anguk Station.

Seoul sub→urban

Dongmyo Station

동묘앞역

Line 1 Station #127, Line 6 Station #636 Let the spirit move you, be it Chinese, Buddhist, or just the pull of a good bargain, and follow it to Dongmyo.

Written by Charles Usher Photographed by Meagan Mastriani

Dongmyo Shrine 동묘

Buddhist Sanctuaries Also in the Dongmyo area is a pair of notable Buddhist sites. The first, down Jibong-ro-5-gil from Exit 9, is Anyang Hermitage 안양암. This unassuming little site is home to a rock-carved Seated Guanyin, Seoul Tangible Cultural Property No. 122. Carved into the bald stone face that forms the hermitage’s southwestern boundary, it was created in 1909, making it the last rock-carved Buddhist statue from the Joseon period. Housed in the wood and brick Gwaneumjeon Hall, the figure looks distinctly more Korean than the typical Buddhist statue, with narrow eyes, rounded cheeks, and even a small mustache and goatee.

Northeast of the station, nestled on the slopes of Mt. Naksan, is Myogak Temple 묘각사, which dates to 1930. Well-preserved and featuring a beautifully painted prayer hall, it’s part of the Koreawide Templestay program, wherein visitors can sign up for a one- or two-day retreat to learn about and participate in daily life at a Buddhist temple. It’s an ideal opportunity to do a bit of spiritual spring cleaning, and the best part is that you don’t even need to leave the city to do so.

Anyang Hermitage

Myogak Temple

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8 9 Dongmyo

Dongmyo Station 동묘앞역 takes its name from the nearby shrine, built to honor the Chinese general and deity Guan Yu (162–219). Near-ubiquitous on the other side of the Yellow Sea, shrines like these are rare in Korea, where, despite its long, complex relationship with China, the strong Confucian tradition prevented worship of Guan Yu from ever really taking root. So it was probably rather reluctantly that Dongmyo was built, from 1599 to 1601, at the behest of the Ming Dynasty of China. A decade earlier, Ming forces had helped Joseon soldiers repel Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s invading Japanese during the Imjin War, a success that the Chinese attributed to the guiding influence of Guan Yu’s spirit. Accordingly, acknowledgement was expected. Today the shrine is recognized as Designated Treasure No. 142.

Surrounding Dongmyo is Hwanghak-dong Flea Market 황학동 벼룩시장, where spillover from the larger market area near Sindang Station 신당역 is on offer: cleaning supplies, power cords, remote controls, artwork, comic books, portable cassette players, bass guitars, and just about whatever else you could throw on a pile, which, in some cases, is exactly how things are organized.

Not everything here is junk; some wares are in decent shape, and if you keep your eyes peeled you can pick up some decent vintage clothing.

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6

ion Stat

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Dongmyo

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5

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Hwanghak-dong Flea Market

Dongdaemun Market

Dongmyo 동묘 and Hwanghak-dong Flea Market 황학동 벼룩시장 Exit 3 Anyang Hermitage 안양암 Exit 9 Left on Jibong-ro-5-gil 지봉로5길 Myogak Temple 묘각사 Exit 2 Left on Jongno-63-gil, right on Jongno-63-ga-gil 종로63가길 T. 02-763-3345, 02-763-3109 www.myogaksa.net

Dining & nightlife

Occidental Eats SEOUL food columnist Dan Gray introduces two great Western eateries near Itaewon Written and photographed by Daniel Gray

Dominic

도미닉

Hannam-dong

Dominic in Hannam-dong is all about steak. You order a hunk of

For the meal I ordered 300 grams of the rib eye (48,000 won,

wet-marinated steak by weight and they grill it up and then serve

or 16,000 won for 100 grams), which was more than adequate to

it in a sizzling pan, Peter Luger-style. With your steak you get to

feed two (or possibly three). I ordered it medium, but it continued

pick an assortment of sides like baked mac n’ cheese, creamed

to cook in the sizzling, cast-iron pan. Next time I would probably

spinach, salads, and more. The interior has a stylish New York loft

get it rare. The steak was flavorful and good with the horseradish

feel to it, with very cool lights that are x-ray slides of light bulbs.

and Dijon mustard that came along with it.

To the back of the restaurant are large windows that showcase

To accompany the steak I ordered the creamed spinach and mac

Seoul’s cityscape. The place is surprisingly intimate. The façade of

n’ cheese. The spinach was my favorite dish. It was very flavorful,

the restaurant is cleverly behind a wall that shields the restaurant

and the hunk of bread that sopped up the cream was a treat. For

★★☆☆ - Great atmosphere, good NYC-style food

from the cold and the noise from the road. It is a perfect place for

my starch I got the mac n’ cheese, which had a very crispy, cheesy

a business meeting or a date.

top and oven-baked corn. For dessert, I recommend the decadent

Hours: 11am–11pm (weekdays); 11am–midnight (weekends) Cost: 15,000–50,000 won per person T. 02-790-7588

The service is polite and the food is tasty. On my first visit I

chocolate souffle. The wine list is impressive as well, with many

started with an order of bruschetta. The bread was crispy and

selections from around the world, such as a Pennywise Cabernet

the bruschetta was topped with caramelized onion flavored with

Sauvignon 2010 (50,000 won).

balsamic vinegar and fresh tomato, basil, and grated Parmesan

[ Map 8 F2] Disclosure: Daniel Gray was invited to the restaurant and the meal was complementary.

your companion, Dominic is definitely worth a visit.

cheese.

Reilly’s Taphouse and Restaurant

Overall, if you are looking for a good date spot that will impress

Dominic 도미닉

라일리스탭하우스

Itaewon

Itaewon hasn’t always been one of the hot nightlife centers of Seoul. Itaewon used to have a bad reputation, which gave many expats the opportunity to set up businesses and restaurants here. One of these expats is the wily and affable Wayne Gold, who has had several businesses and bars over the years. His latest endeavor is Reilly’s Taphouse and Restaurant, which has over 20 domestic and international beers on tap including local favorites such as Magpie Porter, Geumkang Dark Ale, and even some of their own, like Reilly’s Peninsula Dark Ale. They have beers that I haven’t even seen in Korea before, such as Belgium ales and tripels. Reilly’s treats beers like wines. On their menu they even suggest beer pairings for the food. It is nice to know the brew pub is focusing on their entire concept and not just making food an afterthought.

The food is quite good as well. It is a mix of hipster gastropub and greasy pub fare. The onion rings are thick and the paprika dipping sauce is excellent. I thought the rosemary in the batter was a bit of overkill, but the beer batter made the rings quite crispy. They have an assortment of mussels as well, such as with tomato or cream sauce. The Scotch eggs were the best appetizer I tried. They are big and the egg is slightly yolky, with crisp pork and breading on the outside. Wow. The marinara sauce under it was rich and delicious as well. The marinara sauce was so good that next time I will have to get the meatballs.

They also have entrees. The tenderloin, served over potatoes and baked apples, showed that the chef had some skill. This was a hearty meal big enough to share, and the bourbon cream sauce matched it well. I have been told by several people that the star entree on the menu is the braised lamb shank with sweet potato. I will have to get that next time.

They have a giant burger as well. It is a feast and not one for sharing because the thick beef patty is topped with onion rings and veggies and held together with a huge steak knife. Once you grab on to this burger you just have to finish it.

Overall, a great hangout spot and a place to get good food. Next time you are in Itaewon, be sure to check it out.

Reilly’s Taphouse and Restaurant 라일리스탭하우스 ★★★☆ - Great beer selection and food

Hours: 5pm–2am (weekdays); 11am–3am (weekends) Cost: 10,000–20,000 won per dish T. 02-792-6590 [ Map 8 D3]

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Daily Delights

Here are my suggestions for a great food day in Seoul.

ST. PATRICK’S DAY DELIGHT IN ITAEWON

Day 1

Breakfast

Lunch

Lumber Jack Breakfast at Suji’s Restaurant One of the best things you can get to prepare your stomach for a day of drinking is a hearty breakfast. Suji’s has the Lumber Jack breakfast, which has scrambled eggs, toast, pancakes, bacon, and home fries. You might not be happy for the rest of the day.

Suji’s 수지스 Cost: 14,000 won for the Lumber Jack Hours: 11am–10pm T. 02-797-3698

Dinner

Dessert

Fish and Chips at the Wolfhound

Steak at Sam Ryan’s Pub

More Drinks at Baby Guinness

The Wolfhound is one of the most popular Irish pubs in Itaewon—you can always get a cold pint of Guinness or Killians here. They also have great sheperd’s pie and burgers, but my favorite item here is the fish and chips.

You’ll get a full portion of fish and fries with plenty of tartar sauce and vinegar for dipping.

Sam Ryan’s Pub, which is right above the famous 3 Alley Pub, has plenty of brews, seating, televisions, and food for those looking to eat, drink, and be merry. Here you’ll get a large sirloin or rib eye with baked potatoes and veggies. It’s a feast.

Baby Guinness in Itaewon is known for their friendly service and cold beers. On St. Patrick’s day, it’s a great place to sing a few Irish tunes and continue drinking till the wee morn.

The Wolfhound 더 울프하운드

Sam Ryan’s 샘 라이언스

Cost: 11,000 won for fish and chips Hours: 4pm–late T. 02-749-7971

Cost: 18,000 won for steak Hours: 11am–12am T. 02-749-7933

[ Map 8 C3]

[ Map 8 C2]

Baby Guinness 베이비 기네스 Cost: 5,000 won per drink Hours: 11am–1am T. 02-792-2777 [ Map 8 C2]

[ Map 8 A3] Photographs provided by Daniel Gray

Suji’s

AN ECLECTIC FOOD CRAWL IN HONGDAE

Day 2

Breakfast

Mimine

Lunch

Baby Guinness

Sam Ryan’s

Dinner

Dessert

Gamjatang at Songgane Kamjatang

Assorted Fried Snacks at Mimine

Odeng Tang and Fried Chicken at Tang

Get a bubbling bowl of potato and pork stew with the taxi drivers at this local hotspot. You’ll get a nice assortment of kimchis and other side dishes as well. If you’re feeling particularly hungry, you can get a side of the poached pork belly (bossam) with raw oysters.

There are some foods I have dreams about, and the fried shrimp, fried kim-mari, and fried squid at Mimine are some of those things. The crunch is simply awakening. You can also dip your tempura in their saucy tteokbokki.

So…there are separate entrances for men and women into this pub restaurant because the theme is a Korean bath house, or mokyoktang.

It is complete with tile signing and bathtubs for sitting areas, and they even sell wash cloths, soap, and shampoo. The food is good and the drinks are cold. Service is friendly as well. On busy nights they even bring in a DJ.

Songgane Kamjatang 송가네 감자탕 Cost: 6,000 won for individual stew Hours: Open 24 hours T. 02-3141-6557

Mimine 미미네 Cost: Assorted tempura is 9,500 won Hours: 11am–10pm T. 02-3143-7244 [ Map 7 E2]

Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2, A’REX Line), Exit 3

Fruit Croquettes at Chili Cha Cha Fruit croquettes are usually savory, but at Chili Cha Cha they do a great fried croquette filled with apples, cinnamon, nuts, and fruits.

It’s a deliciously sweet way to end a day of eating. You can even get a Campari and soda or a mojito here if you need a nightcap.

Tang 탕

Chili Cha Cha 길모퉁이 칠리차차

Cost: 10,000–15,000 won per person Hours: 5pm–late T. 02-325-8781

Cost: 3,000 won Hours: 11am–10pm, closed Mondays T. 02-322-8405

[ Map 7 E2]

[ Map 7 F2]

Quick Bites Bull and Barrel

불 앤 배럴

Insadong Jukumi

인사동쭈꾸미

Hongmi Dakbal

홍미닭발

(Itaewon)

(Insa-dong)

(Sinsa Station area)

This is a dart bar with a wide selection of local and international brews and good pub food. For darts enthusiasts, this is mecca. Their top floor has 4 regulation dart boards with computer scoring. They also have an arcade dart board for amateurs. The beer selection is vast, and you can travel around the world sipping beers. They have burgers and wings, but my favorite dessert was their kimchi chocolate cheesecake. It is tangy, a bit spicy, and has a full chocolate finish. Nice.

Grilled octopus braised in spicy chili sauce is a Korean specialty and one that I recommend everyone try at least once. Down the nooks and narrows of Insa-dong, you’ll find a little Korean traditional house that specializes in this dish.

The chopped octopus comes out fresh in a hot pan and the sauce is flavorful. It is a bit spicy, though, so it is not for the weak. To balance out the spice you can add bean sprouts or ask for steamed egg 계란찜 (3,000 won). After you enjoy the dish, you can make fried rice from the leftover sauce. The place is reasonably priced as well. Jukumi is 10,000 won per person and 12,000 won if you want to add pork belly.

This place prides themselves on having the spiciest chicken feet in (possibly) the world. When you bite into the chicken feet the burn will start from your lips, surround the mouth, and then shoot right up to your temples. You’ll sweat profusely and get that euphoric spicy high that only spicy food can give you. You have to keep eating until it becomes too much. They have several different weapons to help cool down your mouth: rice balls, steamed egg, and peach juice. Surprisingly, the peach juice works the best. If you are looking to enter a world of pain, I recommend you give this place a try.

Cost: 8,000 won a person Open: 12pm–4am T. 010-9982-2423 [ Map 8 B3]

Cost: 8,000 won a person Open: 11:30am till late T. 02-720-0608

Cost: 4,000–17,000 won Open: 4:30pm–4:30am T. 02-545-2119

[ Map 2 C3]

[ Map 9 B1]

Hongmi Dakbal

Dining & nightlife Cafés, Bars & Clubs

BEHIND THE BELFRY An evening around Jonggak Station

Photograph courtesy of Beer Pong

Written by Daisy Larios

Beer Pong: Alcoholic Game Lounge

The Gwancheol-dong area in Jongno by Jonggak Station 종각역 (Line 1), 비어퐁 Exit 4—the labyrinth of alleys that lie between the Bosingak Belfry 보신 Perhaps the most distinct of the watering holes in the Jongak area is the aptly named Beer Pong, 각 and Cheonggyecheon Stream 청계천 and extend eastward past Piano where you can relive all the glory of your college years. Pitchers of beer start at just 10,000 won at Street—is an oft-overlooked nightlife area in the heart of historic this friendly basement bar, and there are three beer pong tables for you to show off your, ahem, athletic Seoul. Packs of colleagues and friends, often local office workers, prowess. If beer pong isn’t your thing, roulette, darts, and jenga are also available. Beer vending machines, roam this neon maze looking to let their hair down after putting a bongo, and a box of neon-colored wigs round out the fun and funky vibe. Open til 5am on the weekends in a hard day’s work. A Korean night out always begins with and 3am every other night. dinner, and you’ll have no shortage of restaurants to choose T. 02-723-2939 from in this neighborhood. Afterward, head out for icha 2차— www.facebook.com/seoulbeerpong round two—at one of the drinking establishments below, [ Map 2 B4] and when you’re sufficiently lush, check out one of the many noraebangs 노래방 (karaoke rooms) in the area.

Akbari Pocha

악바리포차

Only about a year old, Akbari Pocha is a modern iteration of the traditional streetside pojangmacha 포장마차 (covered wagon), the tarp-covered foodstalls that abound in Seoul. It takes full advantage of its cavernous basement space by modeling the bar after—you heard me right—a prison. The lower level offers communal seating, but the tables behind bars on the second level offer a surprisingly...intimate experience. Akbari offers your typical anju 안주 fare, the appetizers that traditionally accompany drinking in Korea. Open until 9am nearly every day of the week.

T. 070-4248-9742 [ Map 2 B4]

Photograph by Ryu Seunghoo

Miller Time

밀러타임

If playing an American college drinking game on Korean soil doesn’t sound surreal enough, there’s always Miller Time. One of several locations around the country, this bar is surely the American traveler’s equivalent to an out-of-body experience— yet it is decidedly Korean in execution. Particularly popular with the after-dinner crowd, there’s Guinness for those who prefer the

T. 02-737-4466 www.miller-time.co.kr [ Map 1 C3]

dark stuff and beer towers for those who can hold their liquor.

Photograph by Ryu Seunghoo

Authentic German Cuisine in the Heart of Seoul

www.baerlin.co.kr e-mail info@baerlin.co.kr Tel 02 722 5622 Fax 02 722 5623 Opening hours (Closed on Sunday) Mon.~ Fri. 11:30 a.m.~11:30 p.m. Sat. 11:30 a.m.~11:00 p.m.

N°85 Susong-dong Jongno-Gu Seoul Korea Somerset Palace 1F, Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6

Talk of the town

IN THE AGE OF THE HERBIVORE As competition in the dating market heats up, many men are opting out

Written by Robert Koehler

T

he Dong-A Ilbo, one of Korea’s largest newspapers, recently relayed the tale of Mr. Lee, a shy 28-year-old man who, at first glance, seems to be living the dream. He’s got three girlfriends— one is an English instructor at a kindergarten, one is a graduate student studying art, and the other works at a foreign financial firm. All of them look like models. He takes them out to clubs, art galleries, and film sets, depending on what each one is into.

There’s just one catch—none of these girlfriends are real. They are online personalities Lee met through a cyber dating service. The women at the service look and act like real girlfriends whose moods change depending on the date location and topic of conversation. The service uses lesser known actors for its video services. And business is good— about 40,000 users signed up within just 10 days of the service’s launch.

About 80% of them are men in their 20s and 30s.

At Afreeca, a popular personal Internet TV site, there are men spending hundreds of thousands of won for online women to call out their online nicknames on their video channels. These “BJs” (broadcasting jockeys) earn their keep by getting men to send them “star balloons,” online tokens that cost 70 won each. The most popular women can earn millions of won a night. One of the best has 50 million viewers.

The smartphone has also made online “dating” easier. Korean app developers have come up with many adroit messaging apps with which the lonely can connect with members of the opposite sex, real or not. Apps like Doki Doki Postbox, Whispering Sailors, and Fav Talk bill themselves as online pen pal services connecting users with similar interests such as K-pop, but in fact, the desperate use these to communicate with multiple members of the opposite sex. This has also led, unfortunately, to the appearance of cyber con artists who make their living financially exploiting lonely men online.

Enter the Herbivores

초식남

Why is it that more and more men are avoiding real-world relationships with the opposite sex in favor of online relationships?

According to experts, this is connected with the rise in Korea of the chosiknam, or “herbivore man.” The term was first coined about 10 years ago in Japan, where this phenomenon first appeared. Tired of the uber-competitive nature of Japanese society, where men were expected, in the words of Slate’s Alexandra Harney, to “live like characters on Mad Men, chasing secretaries, drinking with the boys, and splurging on watches, golf, and new cars,” the bulk of Japan’s young manhood decided to opt out to pursue their own hobbies and, more importantly, not pursue women. Instead, they found their satisfaction elsewhere, such as anime and pornography. Japan’s political and media establishment was horrified, blaming the trend for Japan’s plummeting birth rates.

It wasn’t long before this trend arrived on Korean shores. As in Japan, Korea’s herbivore men are the product of Korean society’s notorious competitiveness, especially in the dating market, where women value—some argue excessively—a man’s job, education, and

family background above all else. Feeling unable or unwilling to play the game, many men are opting out, content to pursue online sources of romantic satisfaction. Some would be unable to perform even if they found themselves with a member of the opposite sex—in 2009, at the start of this phenomenon, a urologist wrote in the Weekly Dong-A magazine that more and more men in their 20s were suffering from sexual dysfunction that presented itself only—oddly enough—-when they were in the presence of a woman.

Korea’s gender imbalance plays a role, too. As of 2010, there were 113.7 men for every 100 women in the 20–24 age bracket. For those aged 25–29, there were 103.8 men for every 100 women, and for those aged 30–34, there were 102.0 men for every 100 women. As if the dating market weren’t tough enough.

Dried Fish Women

건어물녀

Women, too, are experiencing romantic—or unromantic, as it were— trends of their own. As more and more women rise to prominence in the workforce, some are abandoning love and marriage all together to focus on their careers. These women are called “dried fish women,” or geoneomulnyeo. Like the herbivore man, it’s a term that came from Japan, where this trend began. Polite, smartly dressed, and good at their jobs, they let themselves go on the weekend, too tired to dress up, clean their home, or go out. Content with a can of beer and some dried fish snacks, the love of their lives is most often their pets. When they’re not sleeping, they can be found watching TV or reading comics. If these women marry, it is often in their late 30s.

Suffice it to say, neither of these trends have helped Korea’s birthrate, which—despite impressive improvements over the last three years—is still one of the lowest in the world. A 2011 poll by international pharmaceutical firm Eli Lilly found Korean couples were the least sexually active in the world. With young men and women now swearing one another off, it does not bode well for the future of Korea’s aging society.

Shopping

White Day

KEEPING THE WOMAN IN YOUR LIFE HAPPY Written by Robert Koehler Photographs courtesy of various manufacturers

K

orea celebrates White Day on March 14, one month after Valentine’s Day. Whereas women give men chocolate and other gifts on Valentine’s Day (at least in Korea), White Day is for men to return the favor. White chocolate is the traditional gift of choice, but in these ostentatious consumer-driven days, you might have to do a bit better to impress that special woman in your life.

OSULLOC Love Collection Don’t have the cash for a luxury handbag? Well, how about some nice blended teas instead? Amore Pacific’s tea brand OSULLOC’s Love Collection includes two wonderfully aromatic blends, made from only the finest leaves grown at OSULLOC’s tea plantations on Jejudo.

Price: 30,000 won T. 080-023-5454, www.osullocmall.com OSULLOC teahouses and major department stores across Korea: Myeong-dong branch [ Map 4 C2], Insa-dong branch [ Map 2 B2]

Stori Bags Want to get that special woman a quality handbag with a Korean touch? Try Stori.

Run by the art director of Louis Quartorze, Stori incorporates Korean designs such as the traditional bokjumeoni (luck pouch) into their handmade bags.

Price: 200,000–1 million won T. 02-735-7101, www.lovestorisac.blog.me [ Map 3 A4]

25

J.ESTINA Work by Korean luxury jewery maker J.ESTINA can be found around the necks or dangling from the ears of figure skater Kim Yu-na, Girls’ Generation, and the Dakota sisters.

We’re sure it will look great on your girlfriend/wife, too.

Price: Their new Neo Glam Collage Tiara goes for 540,000 won www.jestina.co.kr Lotte Department Store in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 A2]

Hormiga Luxury Bags The luxury handbag is now—for better or worse—the must-have item for self-respecting women everywhere. Korean handmade bag manufacturer Hormiga has recently made a name for itself after it was rumored the company made President Park Geun-hye’s stylish ostrich leather bag. The company later denied this, but it got their name in the news anyway.

Price: 1–5 million won T. 02-2155-4933, www.hkhormiga.com

Perfumelifer This Korean niche perfumery sees perfume as an art— if you see perfume as just another fashion statement, they ain’t for you. Perfumelifer is all about individual sensibility-based creativity.

Look for Hormiga store on 2F of Hibrand Fashion Hall in Yangjae-dong (T. 02-2155-0001, www.hibrand.com): Yangjae Citizen’s Forest Station 양재시민의숲역 (Sinbundang Line)

Price: Around 30,000 won T. 010-8238-3238, www.perfumelifer.co.kr Try F.ound Store (T. 02-333-4441, [ Map 7 E1]) or 1984 (T. 02-325-1984, [ Map 7 B3] in the Hongdae area, Around The Corner (T. 02-545-5325, [ Map 9 B1]) on Garosu-gil Street, and Seoul Selection Bookshop (T. 02-734-9565, Map 3 A4) in the Samcheong-dong area.

Aya Sophia If you’re using White Day to take your relationship to the next level, the small Bukchon shop Aya Sophia offers beautiful but reasonably priced wedding dresses, as well reception dresses, wedding shoes and wedding accessories.

Price: 300,000–600,000 won T. 070-7518-1088 [ Map 3 C3]

Ferrero Rocher Chocolate Korean supermarket Lotte Mart’s most popular White Day item is premium shell chocolate, particularly Italy’s respected Ferrero Roche brand.

Really, you can’t go wrong.

Price: Box of eight will set you back 7,200 won Any Lotte Mart (www.lottemart.com) or Olive Young (www.oliveyoung.co.kr) in Korea

When you buy a dress, you’ll get a matching accessory for free.

Gift certificates available, too.

Interview

BORN TO CLIMB Meeting sports climbing champion Kim Ja-in 김자인 Written by Ben Jackson Photograph courtesy of All That Sports

T

hey say the very best pianists are the ones that make even the hardest pieces look easy, their hands gliding effortlessly up and down the keyboard. Watching the world’s No. 1 sport climber Kim Ja-in scale a climbing wall gives a similar sensation: each move is controlled but fluid, perfectly considered and executed, with no jerking or grunting betraying the difficulty of the contortions required or the unnaturalness of such blatant defiance of gravity. The scattering of notes on an IFSC World Championship wall is ungenerous, but Kim plays her way up the vertical score without missing a beat. And like other virtuosos, Kim lets on that behind her competition-beating success lies pure enjoyment.

“By nature, once I start something I want to perfect it, but I also try hard to enjoy it to the fullest. Climbing is what I enjoy most of all, so I work harder at it than anything else.”

Kim’s hard work and enjoyment have brought her multiple sports climbing competition victories and podium results in the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) Climbing Worldcup, overall victory in the 2012 IFSC Climbing World Championship, and constant first or second world rankings over the past three years.

Family of climbers Kim’s parents met through their mutual hobby of mountaineering; some of Kim’s earliest memories are of going to parks with climbing walls on weekends and watching her elder brothers climb. Perhaps inevitably, Kim soon found herself up a wall, her initial unease rapidly transforming into pleasure.

“My whole family enjoyed climbing, so I think I started doing it naturally,” she says. “Perhaps climbing is my destiny. When I climb, I sometimes feel this is the thing that best suits me, that best suits Kim Jain. It’s what makes me happiest.”

Kim currently competes in the world of sport climbing, which takes place on indoor, man-made climbing walls or on building walls with artificial holes and grips attached. The IFSC divides the sport into three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed. Among these, Kim excels at and enjoys lead, which involves climbing as high as possible, with a rope, on a predetermined 15 meter-high route within a given time of eight minutes.

Climbers clip the rope into pre-attached carabiners as they progress up the wall.

“It’s a discipline that challenges you to think about how you’re going to climb a route you’re seeing for the first time in your life, so each person comes up with her own different way of climbing the same route.

It’s fun because of these creative aspects, and because you can learn more by watching how other climbers go up the same route as you using a different method.”

Bouldering differs significantly in nature as a discipline: climbers compete to see who can reach the top of four of five walls of around five meters in height in a fixed, five-minute period. Speed, Kim’s least favorite discipline, involves simply determining which climber can complete the same course in the shortest amount of time.

“All three disciplines are part of sport climbing, but their characteristics, their lines of movement, and the muscles they require are all different, so it’s not easy to do all three. I started doing bouldering because I thought practicing the big, dynamic movements it demands

27

would help me with lead, too,” says Kim. “But I found it so fun that I now compete in both disciplines.

“I also climb natural rock faces whenever I get the chance. I want to do plenty of natural rock climbing when I retire from competitive sport climbing.”

Solitary focus Kim’s success, she believes, comes from focusing purely on climbing itself, rather than on competition.

“Ultimately, I think, climbing is a fight with yourself. So I always go into competitions just wanting to reach the top of the route in front of me, rather than beating other competitors. I’ve had some hard times recently when interest in and expectations of me have grown and I’ve felt more of a burden. I really like climbing and I was afraid that I would be judged only according to competition results. But I think the most important thing is for me to enjoy climbing. So these days I’m using mind control techniques, telling myself not to feel ashamed of whatever the competition results are because I’ve faithfully gone through every process and worked hard.”

“My most memorable moment was at the IFSC Climbing World Championships in China in 2009. Ever since I first took part in the Worldcup at the age of 16, my dream had been to complete a course in the Worldcup finals; in China that year, I fulfilled the dream, and at the biggest competition of all, the World Championships! I ended up taking second place that time, but I was so moved at having completed the course that I remember crying.”

Continued enjoyment “To be honest, I still can’t believe I’m ranked number one in the world,” says Kim. Though maintaining this position would be nice, she claims, enjoying the actual sport itself is her highest priority and what she wants to do for as long as possible.

“I want to climb well enough that people who see me can feel how attractive and fun climbing is as a sport,” she says. “I want to help, even just a little, to increase the number of people enjoying sport climbing in Korea. If sport climbing is included as a sport in the 2020 Summer Olympic Games, I’ll be 32 by then, but I definitely want to keep in good shape and take part. I don’t have any specific plans for after retirement, but I want to keep doing things related to sport climbing. I’m currently studying sports psychology, which I chose because I think it will be helpful in the future.”

Kim is quick to emphasize how safe and fun her sport is and is keen to get as many people involved in it as possible.

“Go and find a climbing wall this weekend with your partner or your family,” she says. “Climbing is great for all-round exercise and helps with mental concentration. There are almost 30 indoor and outdoor climbing walls in Seoul alone.”

http://jainkim.kr

Goings-on around town INSTALLATION AT DMZ

PREVIEWS+ RUFUS WAINWRIGHT

Imjingak Village

T Uniqlo AX Mar 16, 7pm 110,000 won T. 02-563-0595 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

Singer/songwriter Rufus Wainwright is set to steal the limelight when he comes to Seoul for a concert.

His musical style draws on classical music, opera, musicals, and pop, yet he cannot be pigeonholed into any of these categories. The AmericanCanadian artist was affectionately referred to by Elton John as “the greatest songwriter on the planet” and highly praised by the New York Times for his “genuine originality.” Some of his songs used as original sound tracks include “Across the Universe” for I Am Sam, “The Maker Makes” for Brokeback Mountain, and “Hallelujah” for Shrek.

JOSEPH AND THE AMAZING TECHNICOLOR DREAMCOAT T Charlotte Theater T. 02-747-5811

Feb 12–Apr 11

VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 70,000 won

www.charlottetheater.co.kr

Map 10

A Korean-licensed production of Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat has been unveiled, offering a glimpse into the much-touted collaborative musical between Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice.

The story is based on the “coat of many colors” story of Joseph from the Bible's Book of Genesis. Its familyfriendly story line, universal themes, and catchy music have resulted in numerous productions, both professional and amateur, since its premiere in the early 1970s. The Korean production features four high-profile celebrities as Joseph—heartthrob actor Song Chang-eui, stylish crooner Jo Sung-mo, talent rocker Chung Dong-ha, and Yim Si-wan, lead vocal of the boy band act Children of Empire.

Feb 23–Mar 10

www.eunsooklee.com

Various bus lines available from Paju City Hall

To mark the 60th year of the armistice of the Korean War, globally-acclaimed installation artist Lee Eun-sook has dedicated her latest work along the wired fence located in the border village of Imjingak, north of Seoul.

Lee experiments with her materials and light as a sculptural element. The tragic war theme is reflected in her use of old photographic images from the 1950–53 fratricidal war in the Korean Peninsula with iconic florescent threads and translucent polyester film panels. In particular, she highlights the millions of families who were forced to separate in the two Koreas as a result of the civil war.

FESTIVAL BO:M Doosan Art Center, Sogang Univ. Mary Hall, and 5 other venues admission to 110,000 won. www.festivalbom.org

Mar 22–Apr 18

Ticket prices vary from free

Festival Bo:m is an international festival of performing and visual arts that is multicultural as well as multigenre in nature. The interdisciplinary show encourages experimentalism and challenging performances, with a strong emphasis on innovative and avant-garde works.

The annual show strives to introduce artists with diverse cultural backgrounds, especially those from Asia, on the international stage. This year, a total of 26 art exhibitions and productions of dance, drama, and music will be featured at various venues throughout Seoul March 22–April 18. Six different lectures and workshops will also be held during the month-long event.

FILM

KOREAN FILM WINS TOP SUNDANCE HONOR Jiseul, an indie feature about one of Korea’s darkest yet lesser-known chapters in its modern history, won the Grand Jury Prize at the Sundance Film Festival in late January. Written and directed by O Muel, a native and cultural activist of Jejudo Island, the black-and-white movie is set during the Jeju April 3 Incident of 1948 and tells of some 120 villagers who lost their lives at that time. The villagers barely survive hunger by eating raw potatoes in a cave for two months. Eventually their endurance wanes, and fear begins to test the group’s mettle. In actuality, 30,000 islanders were branded as Communist insurgents and killed by the government. Jiseul is the local dialectical term for potatoes, which the director sees as a soul food for humanity and as an icon of hope and life.

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global T http://ticket.yes24.com/Home/PerfFN/PerfListFN.aspx

MUSEUMS Musei Vaticani—Geniuses of the Renaissance Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Mar 31 Adults: 15,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won 1544-8755 / www.museivaticani.co.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Art Across America National Museum of Korea Thru May 19 12,000 won / 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

The Peranakan World— Cross-cultural Art from Singapore and the Straits National Museum of Korea Mar 19—May 19 02-2077-9000 / www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

CLASSICAL MUSIC London Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 28, 8pm / Mar 1, 7pm R: 350,000 won, S 250,000 won, A: 180,000 won, B: 120,000 won, C: 70,000 won 02-599-5743 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Prades Pablo Casals Festival in Korea Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 2, 5pm R: 66,000 won, S: 44,000 won, A: 22,000 won / 1544-5142 www.casalsfestival.co.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Krasnoyarsk Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 18, 8pm R: 150,000 won, S: 120,000 won, A: 90,000 won, B: 70,000 won, C: 50,000 won/ 02-3463-2466 www.sac.or.kr

Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra— Beethoven II Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 14, 8pm R: 120,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 60,000 won, B: 30,000 won, C: 10,000 won 1588-1210 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Tongyeong International Music Festival (TIMF) Tongyeong Citizens' Center and other venues in Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do Mar 23—28 Admission depends on program 02-3474-8315 / www.timf.org Express buses to Tongyeong depart from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (travel time: 4 hours).

Richard Yongjae O`Neill— My Way Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 31, 2pm, 7pm R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won,

A: 50,000 won, B: 30,000 won 1577-5266 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

MET Opera Bear Hall Thru December 30,000 won 1899-2771 Take Maeul bus No. 1 at Exit 7 of Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), and get off at Hyundai Convention parking lot.

DANCE Universal Ballet— Swan Lake Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Mar 8—12 R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 60,000 won, B: 30,000 won, C: 10,000 won 070-7124-1737 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

MUSICALS T The Phantom of the Opera Blue Square Thru Mar 24 VIP: 160,000 won, R: 130,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 70,000 won, B: 50,000 won / 1577-3363 www.phantomoftheopera.co.kr Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6).

Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2]

T Rebecca, The Musical LG Arts Center Thru Mar 31 VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 50,000 won 02-6391-6333 / www.lgart.com [ Map9 C2] T The Three Musketeers Chungmu Art Hall Feb 20—Apr 21

R: 100,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 60,000 won / www.bluesquare.kr Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6).

Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2]

THEATER Amy's View (by David Hare) Myeongdong Theater Thru Mar 10 R: 50,000 won, S: 35,000 won, A: 20,000 won 1644-2003 www.mdtheater.or.kr [ Map 4 B2]

T The Play, Masquerade Dongsoong Art Center Feb 23—Mar 17 R: 50,000 won, S: 35,000 won Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 1

VIP: 130,000 won, R: 110,000 won, S: 80,000 won, A: 70,000 won 02-2230-6600 / www.cmah.or.kr [ Map 5 , D2]

2013 Children Music Theater Festival Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater Feb 20—Mar 17

T Arsene Lupin Blue Square Thru May 5

12,000 won / 02-2261-0513 http://sngad.sejongpac.or.kr Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3, 4), Exit 3 or 4

DISCOUNT

PINK MARTINI CONCERT

29

COUPONS

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 20, 8pm R: 120,000 won, S: 90,000 won, A: 50,000 won T. 02-599-5743 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5.

Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Pink Martini, the famed “little orchestra” group from the US, will give a concert in Seoul on March 20. The 12-member band draws inspiration from music from all over the world, thus creating a repertoire that skillfully blends classical, jazz, and old-fashioned pop. Likewise, the band performs its multilingual repertoire on concert stages and with symphony orchestras throughout Europe, Asia, and North America. The Portland, OR-based band is characterized by its signature eclectic, acoustic-oriented sounds and is often associated with the neo-swing trend of the 1990s. While most neo-swing acts favored a combination of jump blues and early rock & roll, the diverse Pink Martini have offered a risk-taking blend of jazz (mainly swing), world music, cabaret, lounge, and classical film music.

Don’t miss out on our special coupons exclusively for overseas visitors! Enjoy endless savings!

10% BUSINESS TYPE: NAIL

Manicures & Pedicures: 10% discount

2,000 won Discount BUSINESS TYPE: SPA 2,000 won discount on entry

10%

GRIMES CONCERT Rolling Hall Mar 23 54,000 won (45,000 won in advance) http://supercolorsuper.com Map 7 F1]

scstickets@gmail.com

BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC

10% discount on all items + Free herbal tea

Toronto native Claire Boucher, who goes by the stage name Grimes, will steal the limelight in a Seoul concert. Her music has been noted for its atypical combination of vocal elements as well as a wide array of influences, ranging from industrial and electronic to pop, hip-hop, R&B, noise rock, and even medieval music. The experimental Grimes draws upon vastly different influences and creates a mystical sound and feel with her haunting vocals. Grimes’ live show is sonically and visually appealing, with infectious beats, dancers, and improvisation. Don’t miss her live concert in Korea, where she will be appearing with her new setup, a full band.

110,000 won

T. 02-332-3277

5% discount on purchases of 50,000 won or more 10% discount on purchases of 100,000 won or more

20%

SUN-JU HAIR DESIGNER @ AVENUE JUNO

BUSINESS TYPE: HAIR 20% off each procedure

BUSINESS TYPE: POTTERY T

Mar 27, 8pm

BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC

5%

THE SCRIPT—LIVE IN SEOUL Uniqlo AX

10%

Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

5% off household pottery

10% off accessories

· Product categories: Computers & tablets /

The biggest Irish band since U2 comes to Korea for the first time ever. So much has changed for the Script since they released their first album four years ago.

First they broke into Ireland and Britain; then the States; then everywhere from Asia to South Africa. Along the way, they toured with U2, Take That, and Paul McCartney, sailed through the second-album syndrome that sinks so many bands, played to a 55,000-strong crowd at an historic hometown show in Dublin, amassed almost four million followers on Facebook and 1.5 million on Twitter, and saw their singer star on TV talent show The Voice. Their music has been featured in popular television programs such as 90210, Ghost Whisperer, The Hills, Waterloo Road, East Enders, Made in Chelsea, and The Vampire Diaries.

Cameras / Mobile phones / Hi-Tech audio & speakers / Accessories / Apple devices

· Period of validity: Mar 1 ~ 31, 2013 · This coupon cannot be used in combination with other promotions. · This coupon cannot be used to purchase accessories made by Apple. www.concierge.co.kr

5%

BOOKSHOP

BUSINESS TYPE: BOOK STORE [See p.5] 5% off all books * 02-734-9539

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: KOREAN TRADITIONAL SNACK

10% discount. *Other discount coupons cannot be used at the same time

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

CONCERTS

Take shuttle bus at Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4

Rachael Yamagata— Live in Seoul Samsung Hall, Ewha Womans Univ.

Feb 23—24, 7pm

Jeff Bernat— 1st Time Live in Seoul V-Hall Mar 22, 8pm

88,000 won / 02-3143-5156 www.s2enter.com [ Map 6 C1]

66,000 won / 070-4334-3792 [ Map 7 D3]

Thee Oh Sees— First Live Show in Seoul KT&G Sangsang Madang Feb 24, 6:30pm

T Julio Iglesias Concet Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park Apr 9, 8pm VIP: 220,000 won, FR: 190,000 won, R: 160,000 won, S: 120,000 won, A: 90,000 won 02-407-2589 / www.ehyundai.com Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

40,000 won (35,000 won in advance) / roundx2.net@gmail.com www.roundx2.net [ Map 7 E2]

Ben Folds Five— The 1st Live In Seoul Uniqlo AX Feb 24, 6pm 110,000 won / 02-563-0595 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

T T Twenty | one | pilots— Live In Seoul Walkerhill Theatre Mar 1, 10pm 77,000 won / 010-3360-7846 www.vuent.co.kr

METALFEST 2013 (w/ Deftones & Slash) Olympic Hall, Olympic Park May 9, 6:30pm

2-day pass: 109,000 won www.greenplugged.com World Cup Stadium 월드컵경기장역 (Line 5), Exit 1

T Jason Mraz— Live in Seoul Subsidiary Stadium, Jamsil Sports Complex May 17, 6:30pm R: 132,000 won, S: 110,000 won Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

World DJ Festival (w/ Dash Berlin, DJ Blend, Sven Vath) Yangpyeong Narukke Festival Park May 17—19 1-day pass: 99,000 won, 2-day pass: 150,000 won / 02-3141-6062 http://worlddjfest.com Yangpyeong Station 양평역 (Jungang Line), Exit 1

Seat: 132,000 won, standing: 110,000 won / 02-3141-3488 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

T Rainbow Island 2013 (w/ Travis) Nami Island, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do Jun 7—9

Greenplugged Seoul 2013 Nanji Hangang Park May 17—18

3-day pass: 143,000 won www.rainbowfestival.co.kr Take a train or bus. Get off at the train station or the bus terminal

of Gapyeong. Take a taxi to Nami Island parking lot.

KOREAN MUSIC Sarangbang Recital National Theater of Korea Mar 15, 7pm 20,000 won / 02-2280-4115 www.ntok.go.kr Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 2, or take yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

Complete Pansori Performance National Theater of Korea Mar 30, 3pm 20,000 won / 02-2280-4115 www.ntok.go.kr Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 2, or take yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

KOREAN DANCE Korean Dance Concert National Theater of Korea Mar 21—22, 11am 20,000 won / 02-2280-4115 www.ntok.go.kr

10% BUSINESS TYPE: RESTAURANT 10% discount on all menu items

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE

10% discount on all seats *Please make a reservation on the official ‘Miso’ website or by phone at least 3 days before the performance. *When payment is made on the spot after reservation, only people who present the coupon can avail themselves of the discount.

5% BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE 5% discount on on-the-door ticket sales

Admission for 10,000 won per person BUSINESS TYPE: EXHIBITION, EXPERIENCE

Valid for adults and children in groups of up to four people, until Feb 28

5%

BUSINESS TYPE: CULINARY TOURS & COOKING CLASSES 10% discount

Goings-on around town • Only shoppers with a coupon will receive discounts.

• Coupons must be presented at the counter before paying for merchandise.

NEWS

• Limit: one coupon per person. Multiple coupons cannot be used at the same time.

SIGUR ROS—1ST LIVE IN SEOUL

• Coupons can only be used in participating stores— see coupon for details.

Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park May 19, 6pm R: 110,000 won, S: 99,000 won T. 02-563-0595 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

• Discounts are available to foreign tourists only.

T

The three-piece Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Ros will perform in Seoul on May 19. Known for its ethereal sound, frontman Jonsi Birgisson’s falsetto vocals, and the use of bowed guitar, the band’s music is also noticeable for its incorporation of classical and minimalist aesthetic elements. Since its 1994 debut in Reykjavik, Iceland, the band has garnered wide international acclaim for its signature style of playing guitar with the bow from a cello, accentuated with reverb, creating a sweeping, fluid sound that is unique for an electric guitar.

Selected Branch Stores: Apgujeong Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Yongsan Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

RICHARD CLAYDERMAN

*Tax exemption applies to the amount of purchase exceeding KRW 30,000. *A free item is offered to customers depending on the amount of purchase (subject to change). Selected Branch Stores: Insa-dong Branch

Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park May 19, 6pm R: 110,000 won, S: 99,000 won T. 02-563-0595 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

French pianist Richard Clayderman, whom the Guinness Book of World Records once dubbed “the most successful pianist in the world,” will hold a concert tour around Korea in April. With his lush and sophisticated instrumental approach to pop music, Clayderman sold more than 20 million copies of his 1977 debut album Ballade Pour Adeline in 38 countries. The Korea tour will feature a selection of his instrumental renditions of popular music, rearrangements of movie soundtracks, ethnic music, and easy-listening arrangements of popular works of classical music.

Selected Branches of It’s skin: Dongdaemun, Doota, Myeongdong Unesco, Myeongdong Jungang, Edae, Insadong, Jeongnam shopping (Myeongdong), Jongno. 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Avenue Juno Cheongdam Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

JANE BIRKIN—SERGE GAINSBOURG VIA JAPAN T Selected Branch Stores: Gahoi Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Directions: Itaewon, Myeong-dong, Jonggak, Apgujeong, Coex, Sinchon, Yeoksam 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: SEOUL SELECTION BOOKSHOP 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Myeong-dong Lotte Department Store Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Universal Art Center Mar 30, 7pm R: 132,000 won, S: 110,000 won, A: 88,000 won T. 02-6339-1232 Achasan Station 아차산역 (Line 5), Exit 3

English actress and singer Jane Birkin will dedicate her upcoming Seoul concert to her lifelong music partner and composer Serge Gainsbourg. In 1969, she and Serge Gainsbourg released the song “Je t’aime… moi non plus” (“I love you… me neither”), written by Gainsbourg and featuring both of them on vocals, which caused a scandal for its sexual explicitness.

Some 20-plus years after his death, Birkin’s devotion to spreading his work around the world has raised his profile. Currently, Birkin is working with a jazzy quartet of Europeanbased Japanese musicians.

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global T http://ticket.yes24.com/Home/PerfFN/PerfListFN.aspx Selected Branch Stores: Sinchon, Seodaemun Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Reservations: 02-751-1500 Selected Branch Store: Chongdong Theater 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Myeong-dong, Hongdae theater 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Hongdae Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Insa-dong Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Take shuttle bus at Dongguk Univ.

Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 2 or take yellow bus No. 2 at Exit 6.

KOREAN THEATER T MISO II: Silla, the Land of the Gods Gyeongju Culture EXPO Thru Mar 31, 7:30 pm, Tue—Sun (no show on Mondays) R: 50,000 won, S: 30,000 won, A: 20,000 won / 054-740-3800 http://sillamiso.chongdong.com KTX trains to Gyeongju depart from Seoul Station (travel time: 3 hrs).

T The TAL: Extreme Taekwondo Performance K-Art Hall, Olympic Park Thru Mar 24 50,000 won (VIP: 80,000 won) 02-2215-3535, 2215-3636 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3 T World Beat VINARI VINARI Theater, Cine Core Thru Jul 31 40,000—60,000 won www.worldbeatvinari.com [ Map 2 D4]

KOREAN TRADITIONAL CEREMONIES Changing of the Royal Guard at Gyeongbokgung Palace Hongnyemun Gate 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm (except Tuesdays) Free / 02-3700-3900 www.royalpalace.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]

Changing of the Royal Guard at Deoksugung Palace Daehanmun Gate 11am, 2pm, 3:30pm (except Mondays) Free / 02-3707-8414 www.royalguard.or.kr [ Map 1 B4]

Bosingak (Belfry) Daily BellRinging Ceremony Bosingak Belfry 11:30am—12:20pm (except Mondays) Free / 02-120 www.royalguard.or.kr [ Map 2 B4]

ART EXHIBITIONS The Face of Australia Illustrations and Photographes

The Korea Foundation Cultural Center Thru Mar 7 Free / 02-2151-6520 www.kf.or.kr [ Map 4 C1]

Van Gogh in Paris: A Dialogue with Modernism Special Exhibition

@What Contemporary Art from China

Arko Art Center Thru Mar 31 Free / 02-760-4850 http://arkoartcenter.or.kr Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 2

Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Mar 24

Gravity and Time: Moving Sculpture

Adults: 15,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won 1588-2618 / www.vangogh2.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

SOMA Museum of Art Thru Mar 31

Transcending Vision: American Impressionism 1870–1940 in Seoul American Impressionism

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Mar 29 Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 8,000 won, Children: 5,000 won 02-501-6976 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Sculpture, Installation, Video Art

Adults: 3,000 won, Youths: 2,000 won, Children: 1,000 won 02-425-1077/ www.somamuseum.org Mongchontoseong Station 몽촌토성역 (Line 8), Exit 2.

Hyundai Card Culture Project: Tim Burton Films

Seoul Museum of Art Thru Apr 14 Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 8,000 won 02-2124-8973 http://sema.seoul.go.kr [ Map 1 B4]

Michael Lau—Artoy Art Toy

Sejong Center

31 MEMORY OF LANDSCAPE I HAVE NEVER SEEN National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea www.moca.go.kr [ Map 1 B4]

Thru Apr 21

12,000 won (including Deoksugung Palace entrance fee)

T. 02-2188-6000

A high-profile collection of Czech’s modern masterpieces is on view in downtown Seoul. The 107 paintings were carefully selected by the National Gallery in Prague and represent 28 different Czech artists who were active from 1895 through 1943. From the late 19th century to the early 20th century, the Czech Republic went through a steep rise in nationalism spurred by the declining of imperialism, the outbreak of the First World War, the birth of its country, the emergence of socialism, and the introduction of the Western modern system. Czech modern art is being introduced to Korea for the first time now.

SEOPYEONJE

JEJU DEULBUL FESTIVAL Aewol County, western Jejudo

Mar 8–10

Free

www.buriburi.go.kr

Flight to Jejudo takes about 1 hour.

The City of Jeju is holding the 16th Jeju Deulbul Festival Mar 8–10. The site of the event is Saebyeol Oreum, a small crater formation west of the city. It is part of Korea’s agricultural tradition to set fire to farm fields in the early spring and thereby ready them for planting new crops by removing dead grass and destructive insects.

The festival has evolved over the years and has now become an annual event that attracts thousands of tourists. Visitors place the note of their wishes in the burning bales of hay in hopes of their wishes coming true.

National Theater of Korea Mar 26—31 20,000–70,000 won T. 02-2280-4114 www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk University Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 6

The National Theater of Korea will unveil the traditional opera, or changgeuk, version of the famous novel Seopyeonje. Its story tells of a family of traditional Korean pansori singers. The boy believes the stepfather caused his mother’s death and runs away, leaving father and daughter to travel and perform alone. Believing her art can become elevated to the highest standard only by sensory deprivation, the father is said to have blinded the child.

Thereafter, she becomes a legendary performer. Years later the half-brother arrives in a village and finds his sister in a tavern. Adapted into a film production, Seopyeonje became the first Korean movie to break the 1 million attendance barrier in 1993.

DIGITAL PEACE 2013 Mar 9, Apr 13

May 11 & Jun 22

Platoon Kunsthalle

www.digitalpeace2013.com

[ Map 9 C1]

Hosted by the French and German embassies, the Institut Francais, and the Goethe Institute, Digital Peace is thus an artistic season oriented toward the celebration of peace and reconciliation, a series of events fitting into the historic continuity of this opening up of Korea. The program proposes a selection of Franco-German works, artists, thinkers, designers, expositions, schools, institutions, labels, and festivals—the common thread is the notion of peace expressed through the broadest variety of digital approaches, forms, and expressions. All the events are organized in collaboration, correspondence, or connection with Korean artists, galleries, institutions, schools, and labels.

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

for the Performing Arts Thru Apr 14 Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won, Children: 6,000 won 02-566-0835 / www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

John Pai—In Memory's Lair Sculpture

Gallery Hyundai New Space Mar 28—Apr 25 Free / 02-2287-3500 www.galleryhyundai.com [ Map 3 A4]

Voyage to the Pop-Up Book World Pop-Up Art

Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Arts Center Mar 31—May 19 Adults: 12,000 won, Youths: 10,000 won / 02-730-4360 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Artist Portfolio Contemporary Art

Savina Museum of Contemporary Art Mar 20—May 24 Adults: 3,000 won, Univ. Students:

2,000 won, Youths: 1,000 won 02-736-4371 / www.savinamuseum.com [ Map 3 C4]

France in SongEun: The French Haunted House French Contemporary Art

SongEun ArtSpace Mar 15—Jun 8 Free / 02-3448-0100 www.songeunartspace.org [ Map 9 C1]

Dream Walking in the Magical Reality Contemporary Art

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea Thru Jun 9 Free / 02-2188-6000 www.moca.go.kr Seoul Grand Park Station 서울대공원 역 (Line 4), Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

Free / 061-797-3714 www.gwangyang.go.kr/gymaehwa It takes more than three hours to get from Seoul to Gwangju Gwangcheon by express bus.

Yeongdeok Crab Festival Yeongdeok-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do Mar 28—Apr 1 Free / 054-730-6114 / http://crab.yd.go.kr It takes four and a half hours to get from DongSeoul Bus Terminal to Yeongdeok by express bus.

Gurye Sansuyu Flower Festival Mt. Jirisan Hot Springs Tourist Site, Gurye-gun, Jeollanam-do Mar 29—31 Free / 061-780-2726 www.sansuyu.go.kr It takes about three hours to get from Seoul to Namwon by express bus.

Transfer to intercity bus.

OTHER EVENTS FESTIVALS Gwangyang Maehwa Flower Festival Gwangyang Maehwa Village, Jeollanam-do Mar 23—31

T 2013 International Garden Exposition Suncheon Bay Korea Around Suncheon Bay, Jeollanam-do Apr 20—Oct 20 1-day pass: 15,000 won 1577-2013/ www.2013expo.or.kr It takes more than three hours to

get from Seoul to Suncheon by KTX.

SPORTS Seoul Open Marathon Jamsil Sports Complex Mar 17, 9am 19,000 won / 02-3210-1666 www.seoulopen.co.kr Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

CLUB INFO Stars—Korea Tour V-Hall Feb 22, 9pm 54,000 won (45,000 in advance) scstickets@gmail.com http://supercolorsuper.com [ Map 7 D3]

Prism Hall 1st Year Anniversary Prism Live Hall Mar 8, 10, 22 & 24 070-8150-2979 www.prismhall.com [ Map 7 E3]

Mint Festa KT&G Sangsang Madang Mar 10, 5pm

35,000 won (30,000 won in advance) www.mintpaper.com [ Map 7 E2]

Asia Metal Festival 2013 Sapience 7 & V-Hall Mar 30—31, 4:30pm—8:30pm 1-day pass: 75,000 won www.facebook.com/ events/110844475735991 [ Map 7 ]

REGULAR EVENTS Korean Traditional Stage, MISO An exemplary show of Korean culture and tradition Chongdong Theater Daily (no performance on Mondays) 4pm, 8pm R: 50,000 won, S: 40,000 won, A: 30,000 won 02-751-1500 www.koreamiso.com [ Map 1 B4]

Saturday Premium Performances The best concert series of traditional Korean performing arts Umyeondang, National Gugak Center Every Saturday, 4pm 10,000 won

02-580-3300, www.gugak.go.kr/eng Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Take maeul bus No. Seocho 12or green bus No. 4429.

T Nanta A nonverbal performance that showcases the rhythmic energy of Korean culture Myeong-dong [ Map 4 B2] Mon—Sun 2pm, 5pm, 8pm

Hongdae [ Map 7 D2] Mon—Sun 5pm, 8pm VIP: 60,000 won, S: 50,000 won, (Myeong-dong seat A: 40,000 won) 02-739-8288 www.nanta.co.kr/en

T Ballerina Who Loved a B-boy Two opposites reconcile as a refined ballerina pursues the raw art of breakdancing.

LotteWorld Art Hall Wed—Fri 8pm / Sat—Sun 3pm, 6pm VIP: 60,000 won, R: 50,000 won 02-2266-3727 www.showbboy.com [ Map 10 ]

Expat community page

BULLETIN BOARD SEOUL ZUMBA FLASH MOB Mar 1, 8pm–10pm

MIRAE TREKKING AND TOURS Mar 9, 10:30am

Hongdae area We are going to be dancing in various locations in Hongdae at 8:00pm, spreading the joy of dancing and Zumba and getting a good, free workout!! www.facebook.com/zumbann Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2, A’REX Line)

Bukhansan Dulegil We will trek Bukhansan Dulegil Course 1 and 2 at moderate speed with nice people together!

T. 010-4234-3638 www.meetup.com/MedaeTrekking-and-Tours Suyu Station 수유역 (Line 4), Exit 4

LET'S HELP CHILDREN— ENGLISH FOR UNDERPRIVILEGED CHILDREN Mar 2/9/16/23/30, 10am–1pm Seoul Eastern Children Center Volunteers are needed for teaching English conversation to elementary school kids from very low-income families.

T. 010-9333-7687 www.meetup.com/volunteers Inside of Junggok Station 중곡역 (Line 7), Exit 2

LET'S FEED HOMELESS PEOPLE!–EASTERN SEOUL LOCATION Mar 2, 10:30am–2:30pm Garak Market Homeless Shelter Our task: Cleaning, cooking, serving, doing dishes, garbage disposal, and more dirty jobs.

The shelter’s run by a Catholic Church and the City of Seoul.

T. 010-3385-7200 www.meetup.com/volunteers Garak Market Station 가락시장역 (Line 3, 8)

RASKB: A VISIT TO MAESTRO Mar 2, 4:45pm Music studio near Hongik University A visit to a famous performer and composer of traditional Korean music: Kim Young-Jae. Free for members, 7,000 won for nonmembers. Registration through royalasiatickorea@gmail. com required. www.raskb.com Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2, A'REX Line), Exit 2

KOREAN CLASS Mar 4–Jun 28 Yeoksam Global Village Center The free-of-charge classes are open to international residents in Seoul and are designed for adults. Placement tests are scheduled between Feb 18 and 28. T. 02-3453-9038 http://global.seoul.go.kr/ yeoksam Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2), Exit 4

LANGUAGECAST HONGDAE Mar 4/25, 7pm Chloris Tea & Coffee A place for you to practice languages that you are studying or dabbling in, and more importantly a place for you to come and make friends! www.facebook.com/ languagecast [ Map 7 D2]

ADVENTURE KOREA: PAINTBALL GAME Mar 9, 10am Ilyoung Resort, Gyeonggi-do A 41,000 won fee covers 3–4 paintball games at a scenic resort, which is a 20-minute journey by bus from Gupabal station. www.adventurekorea. com. Gupabal Station 구파발역 (Line 3), Exit 1

LEARN TRADITIONAL KOREAN MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS Saturdays, Mar 9–May 25, 10:30am National Gugak Center The spring semester of 2013 Music Class for Foreigners will be conducted in English and Korean (with language assistance). The 12-week course costs 30,000 won. Applications are taken on a first-come-first-served basis and will close once classes are full (even if before Mar 7 deadline).

T. 02-580-3054, gugakwon@ gmail.com. www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5

LOCATION Mar 10/23, 11am–3:30pm Thomas Homeless Shelter Volunteers will have to roll up their sleeves and soak themselves in dirt and sweat. www.meetup.com/volunteers Yeongdeungpo Station 영등포역 (Line 1), Exit 6

SIWA: NEWCOMER'S MEETING Mar 12, 10:30am–noon M-Plaza, Seoul Global Cultural Center (5F) http://siwapage.com [ Map 4 C3]

SIWA: CULTURAL CULINARY EXCHANGE PROGRAM–NORWAY

Mar 13, 10am–1pm Anne-Karine Garstad from Norway will lecture on Norwegian fish soup and homemade bread.

Participation fee is 20,000 won.

Open only to SIWA members. http://siwapage.com

PTC’S DRAMA PRODUCTION Mar 15–Mar 24, 8pm (Fri, Sat) / 4pm (Sun) Probationary Theatre Company PTC, English expat community theater company, unveils Betrayal

by Harold Pinter. www.probationarytheatre.com Hyochang Park Station 효창공원역 (Line 6), Exit 2

ST. PATRICK'S DAY FESTIVAL 2013 Mar 16, 11am–10pm D-Cube City Traditional Irish music performances, storytelling, dancing lessons, the opportunity to try out Irish musical instruments, face painting, and balloons are all there for the children so bring out the whole family. / T. 02-797-3698 www.facebook.com/ events/347326432048332 Sindorim Station 신도림역 (Lines 1, 2), Exit 1

ANZA KOREA BALL 2013 Mar 16, 6:30pm –Mar 17, 2am

Gwanghwamun Square–Jamsil Olympic Stadium The 2013 edition of the annual marathon event sponsored by the Dong-a Ilbo. Application fee is US$40. T. 02-361-1427 http://marathon.donga.com [ Map 1 B3]

THERE ARE SEVERAL CASES OF FOREIGNERS GETTING BREAST PROCEDURES OVERSEAS BUT GETTING THEM REDONE IN KOREA. WHY IS THIS?

Before surgery

Three monthly after surgery

Some foreigners in Korea have gotten breast procedures in their home countries, but get their breasts redone in Korea because of breast firmness, implant rupture, wrinkling and implant malposition. In such cases, we operate using the most appropriate procedure to solve the problem.

ARE THERE MANY PEOPLE WHO GET BREAST LIFTS WHEN THEIR BREASTS SAG?

LET'S HELP MULTICULTURAL CHILDREN Mar 9, 3:15pm–6:30pm Jung-gu Multicultural Family Welfare Center Our group’s been invited to join in Seoul City Volunteer Center’s efforts to take care of the children of multicultural families living in Seoul. T. 010-3385-7200 www.meetup.com/volunteers Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3, 4), Exit 1

2013 SEOUL INT’L MARATHON Mar 17, 8am

Plastic Surgery

성형외과의원

COLLABORATION GROUP Mar 9, noon Insa-dong We welcome anyone interested in creative arts, such as filmmakers, visual artists, musicians, performers, animators, etc. The venue will be announced at www.meetup. com/seoulart. T. 010-6379-4376 Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 6

Conrad Seoul An elegant black tie event with fine dining, live entertainment, dancing, silent auction, and raffle. Admission: 245,000 won. www.anzakorea.com Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Line 5, 9), Exit 3 or 4

Tel.

02-544-6075 010-9236-6075

There are many people who get breast lifts because breast ptosis sets in as they age. There are several procedures available that don't require prostheses, including crescenteric and donut lifting. If you'd like a bit more added volume, there's also donut lifting with augmentation and vertical scar lifting.

Website

www.ubakorea.com

Sinsa Stn. (337)

Nonhyeon Stn. (732)

E-mail

psaintc@hanmail.net

Dr. Park Sungchul 의료광고심의위원회 심의필 제121009-중-33979호

(Plastic Surgery)

SEOUL PLAYERS PERFORMANCES Mar 9: A Memory, A Monologue, A Rant and a Prayer Mar 15–17: The Vagina Monologues seoulplayers@gmail.com www.seoulplayers.com

INTERNATIONAL SOCCER TEAM LEAGUE Mar 9–16

www.hairandjoy.com

Location: Seoul In March there will be a new league opening for all international teams to join. Our league is established by Mannam Volunteer Association and titled Mannam Victory Cup. A 150,000 won fee per team is required.

T. 010-7126-0039 allez-y@ hanmail.net

SEOUL WALKING TOUR Mar 10, 10:30am Gyeongbokgung Palace– Samcheongdong Course Members are responsible for the palace entry fee and lunch. Call Harry at 010-6437-3280. www.meetup.com/globalexpats Gyeongbokgung Station 경복궁역 (Line 3), Exit 5

LET'S FEED HOMELESS PEOPLE–WESTERN SEOUL

HAIR & JOY

3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Lotte Cinema (8F) UNICLO (1F)

Seven Springs

Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2

20% off each procedure

YONSEI UNIVERSITY CENTER FOR COUNSELING AND COACHING SERVICES

The Yonsei University Center for Counseling and Coaching Services provides counseling services to members of Korea’s foreign-born community. “Our department tries to serve foreigners in Korea, especially foreign workers and multicultural family members who need [foreign] language services,” explains Esther Jang, a pastoral counselor for the center. “So we have counselors from seven countries—[from] China, Japan, India, Africa, Cambodia—so they can speak their own languages.” Counselors who trained in the United States speak English.

The pricing scheme reflects the diverse economic circumstances of Korea’s international community. Jang says, “We evaluate clients’ economic status. If the person is hired by an American company, for instance, insurance pays for it, so we charge, but if their economic status doesn’t provide for counseling services, we provide ten free counseling sessions”

Sun-ju Hair Designer

Counselors are largely doctoral students in Yonsei University’s counseling department. Some have already gotten their doctorates, while others are still studying. For them, the center represents a clinical training process.

Residents, interns, and staff counselors are present, too. The center’s counseling programs are tailored to the particular needs of foreign residents. “We are doing individual counseling—depression and anxiety issues,” explains Jang. “Adjustment issues—when you come overseas, you struggle on how to adjust to a new society.” Spiritual issues are not ignored, either. Says Jang, “We are also Christian-based, so we also do counseling on spiritual matters.” The center takes into account the needs of foreigners with families, too. “We also have a children’s play therapy, so if you have children who have difficulty adjusting to Korean schools, we have children’s therapy, too,” Jang notes. Addiction intervention is also offered.

The center currently has about 20 clients who come in on a mostly weekly basis. There are plans afoot to expand services. “We are trying to create support groups for foreigners or gyopo (overseas Koreans) who come back to Korea, and are training counselors from other countries so that when they return to their own countries they can start counseling programs,” explains Jang. “Especially in South Asia, where counseling is pretty new. They don’t have enough clinical places to get proper training, so perhaps our center could become a frontier for training.”

010-3080-3669

VIDAL SASSOON IN UK CREATIVE STYLIST TONI & GUY IN UK TOP STYLIST Avenue JUNO Vice President • Vice President Education Director, Cheongdam Hair News Instructor at CEO course of Ewha Women’s University School of Continuing Education

Counseling and coaching sessions are by appointment only.

To make an appointment, send an email to info@yiccs.or.kr.

The main office is a 10-minute walk from Mapo-gu Office Station 마포구청역 (Line 6), Exit 3.

Walk straight 100m from Exit 9, Cheongdam Station, Line 7.

The shop(Avenue Juno) is on your right. [ Map 9 C1]

ACCESS MBA: ONE-TO-ONE EVENT IN SEOUL Mar 21, 4pm–9:30pm

Station 숙명여대역 (Line 4), Exit 10

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam Meet the world's top business schools, one-to-one.

Online registration: free, on-site: 20,000 won (register by 10 days before the event to get a personal MBA consultation) www.accessmba.com [ Map 9 B2]

KOREAN CLASSES Thru Mar 22 Itaewon Global Village Center Classes began Jan 14 for ten weeks, but there are still spots left. The classes are free of charge. T. 02-2199-8883 http://global.seoul.go.kr/itaewon Itaewon Station (Line 6) Exit 2.

Walk 200m. [ Map 8 E2]

SEOUL KOTESOL CONFERENCE 2013 Mar 30 Sookmyung Women’s University The program offers real, practical ideas for teachers of all age groups. Non members will be charged 10,000 won. www.koreatesol.org Sookmyung Women's University

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: JEJUDO TRIP Mar 30–Apr 2 Jejudo Island The 90,000 won fee covers guesthouse accommodation for 2 nights and a rent-a-car. Flight tickets not included.

T. 010-6437-3280 www.meetup.com/globalexpats Meeting Place and Time: Gimpo Airport at 8:30am or Jeju Airport at 9:40am

ADVENTURE KOREA: BUNGEE JUMPING & OVERNIGHT DMZ TRIP Mar 30–31 DMZ Infiltration Tunnel in Cherwon, Gangwon-do The DMZ tour will visit the 2nd Infiltration Tunnel, Unification Observatory, Wolcheongri Station, and Labor Party Building in the northeast part of South Korea. The 105,000 won fee covers transportation, 3 meals, accommodation, and entrance fees. www.adventurekorea.com Depart 8am from Hongik Univ.

Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2), Exit 1

ANGEL HOUSE VOLUNTEERING Every Saturday thru Mar 30, 1:30pm Angel House Volunteers will come together to clean, cook, launder, etc. for this wonderful house, which is a refuge for orphans and the disabled. T. 010-8968-1812 www.031-963-6506.kti114.net Meet at the benches near Exit 3, Yeonsinnae Station 연신내역 (Line 3, 6).

NAMU YOUTH TONE TREATMENT Thru Mar 31 Park Club Spa, Park Hyatt Seoul Park Club Spa presents the Namu Youth Tone body treatment that exfoliates dead skin cells and nourishes and moisturizes dry skin in the winter season.

Price: Namu Youth Tone Treatment (60 mins) 175,000 won T. 02-2016-1176, 02-2016-1234 www.seoul.park.hyatt.com [ Map 9 D2]

5TH BNK MEET-UP Apr 6, 4pm–6:30pm Gangnam area

Business Network Korea seeks to create an environment where everyone is open to creating new connections. info@businessnetworkkorea.com www.businessnetworkkorea. com

DAVE RAMSEY'S FINANCIAL PEACE UNIVERSITY COURSE Feb 21–Apr 18, every Thursday at 7pm

jewelry4gems@gmail.com Jamwon Station 잠원역 (Line 3), Exit 4

AMERICAN CINEMA EVENINGS Every 3rd Friday thru Jul 19, 5pm

Rock City Church Financial Peace University (FPU) teaches God’s ways of handling money through videos, class discussions, and interactive small group activities. Cost: 110,000 won for 9-week course.

T. 010-8875-9504, icaseoul@ gmail.com.

Jamwon Station 잠원역 (Line 3), Exit 4

American Center The event, hosted by the American Center of the US Embassy in Seoul, provides young Koreans an opportunity to explore American culture, history, and society through the medium of film. An RSVP is required.

T. 02-397-4114 http://seoul.usembassy.gov/ ack_ace.html Sookmyung Women’s University Station 숙명여대역 (Line 4), Exit 3 or 4

JEWELRY MAKING CLASS IN ENGLISH Every Tuesday thru Apr 30, 7pm

HOMEMADE ITALIAN LUNCHEONS Every Sunday thru Jul 28, 1pm

Rock City Church Jewelry 4 Gems seeks to support women caught in life-controlling issues. Cost: 30,000 won per session.

T. 010-8875-9504,

Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten The Sunday lunch is in the basement of the Franciscan School, on the right side of the new Embassy of Italy in Seoul.

Cost: 15,000 won. www.facebook.com/ groups/7562649675 Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 2

TTUKSEOM BEAUTIFUL FLEA MARKET Every Saturday thru Oct 31, noon–4pm Hangang River Park To become a participating vendor, you have to apply online three weeks to one week in advance. T. 02-1899-1017 www.flea1004.com/Eng Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7), Exit 2 or 3 ----------------------------------------REGULAR EVENT -----------------------------------------

STAND UP SEOUL

Korea's 1st and longest running English-speaking comedy room with Korea's funniest expats!

Rocky Mountain Tavern First Thursday of every month, 9pm. To sign up or inquire: standupseoul@gmail.com www.facebook.com/groups/ standupseoul

“Change your Smile in a single day” IP&I Dental Clinic International Prosthodontics & Implants TM

*CEREC

for computerized tooth restoration in one hour: Inlays, veneers and complete crowns canbe crafted in our clinic to quickly restore a beaming smile.

*Nobel BioCare’s Teeth-in-an-HourTM: Individual teeth can be replaced in one

visit. Bio-friendly materials, advanced design, and precision fit permit the implantation of natural looking teeth.

Prompt, caring service from Sung-Ki Paik, DDS,MSD,Ph.D. and his English-speaking associates

IP&I is a name you can trust.

Somerset Palace Seoul, Suite 306, 85 Susong dong, Jongnogu, Seoul 110-140 Korea Telephone: 82(2)735-1135 Toll free: 080-735-1135 Fax: 82(2)735-1468 E-mail: ipidc@hotmail.com On the web: www.ipidc.co.kr

FIRST THURSDAYS AFTERWORK 9pm Banyan Tree Club & Spa The Festa First Thursdays Afterwork is also a place to create new business opportunities. Online registration required. T. 02-2250-8080 http://afterworkseoul.com [ Map 5 B2] ----------------------------------------NEWS -----------------------------------------

MORE INDISPENSABLE WEBSITES FOR EXPATS!

Expatriate life in Korea gets better with every useful new source of information on how to get by in and enjoy this amazing, ever-active country. Here are three (not all new) that you may find useful.

- Seoul Craigslist The place to go for expat secondhand buying and selling, plus a variety of relationship hook-ups, services etc. All in English. http://seoul.craigslist.co.kr - Korea Job Finder The place to go for jobs in Korea.

Almost all vacancies are teaching positions. http://koreajobfinder. com

- Cine in Korea Find the film you want, in the region of Korea you want, and book online, all in English.

Payment can be made by local bank transfer, PayPal, or credit card. http://cineinkorea.com

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

AMISS

In suspense-thriller Amiss, expatriate filmmakers Raoul Dyssell and William Sonbuchner examine one of Korea’s great cultural taboos, suicide. The sudden suicide of Anna Choi (Kimberley M. Buxton), a young Korean woman, forces her griefstricken father (Allan Choi), a powerful, corrupt man, to seek retribution against those responsible for pushing her over the edge. Finding those with whom his daughter was closely involved prior to her death, he has them kidnapped and tied up in an abandoned warehouse for interrogation. The result is a psychological roller coaster ride through the human condition.

The film is bilingual: 35% in Korean, 65% in English. www.amissmovie.com

Do you have any events or other info for our Bulletin Board? If so, please send details to book@seoulselection.com

Seoul International School (SIS) is a dedicated learning community driven by the belief that challenging curricula, inspired instruction, and high expectations are the hallmarks of an outstanding education. Its teaching staff are carefully chosen from among the very best schools around the world; more than two-thirds hold Master's degrees or higher and bring, on average, 12 years teaching experience to their positions. SIS doesn’t take just anyone—more than one-third of applicants do not meet its demanding academic entry standards. Once admitted, students follow a rigorous US standards-based curriculum designed to prepare them for the best colleges and universities in America. To graduate from SIS is to be part of a select group slated for academic, personal, and professional success. Current SIS alumni are enrolled at Harvard, Princeton, Stanford, MIT, Julliard, Amherst, Cornell, Columbia, and U Penn, to name a few. While past performance offers no guarantees, SIS’s proven track record and reputation speaks for itself.

For more information, call 031-750–1200 or visit www.siskorea.org.

Reader's Suggestion

COFFEE PROJECT NEAR ANAM-DONG WRITTEN BY MONIQUE SIMPSON / PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SEOUL CAFE DIARIES

I'm a café-holic. At least three times a week, I visit a café in Seoul, from a big chain store to a quirky, themed café.

Yet among the hundreds of cafés, Coffee Project manages to stand out because of two unique offers. First, you can be a barista for a day by making your own coffee at your table. Second, the wall is lined with various coffeemakers, which you can test to determine which machine produces the best cup of coffee for your distinct palate. In addition

to these great features, the staff at Coffee Project are friendly and helpful, making this neighborhood café a welcoming place for all newcomers.

Hours: 9am–10:30pm (weekdays), 10am–10:30pm (Sat), closed Sundays / Cost: self brewing (basic) 5,000 won, self brewing (Dutch) 10,000 won. T. 02-922-0983, www.facebook.com/mycoffeeproject Anam Station 안암역 (Line 6), Exit 3. Located near Anan Junction.

Whether you’re a newcomer to Seoul, long-time expat or Korean resident,

SIWA has something for you!

Founded in 1952, the Seoul International Women’s Association is Seoul’s largest and oldest international women’s group. Bringing together women from over 50 countries, SIWA provides opportunitites for friendship, cultural exchange, personal growth and community service.

Come join the fun!

Find out more at www.siwapage.com

Maps & guides35 FOOD/BEVERAGE KERVAN Kervan brings traditional Turkish cuisine to Itaewon’s multicultural audience. Traditional favorites like the doner kebab, Iskender kebab, and, of course, the shish kebab are well represented, and the 8,900 won lunch set will be much appreciated by those who work in the Itaewon area. The kitchen’s also got a Turkish brick oven, whence emerge delectable pide (pita) dishes and the lahmacun, or Turkish pizza. Top off a meal with the selection of Turkish desserts and a Turkish coffee. For the uninitiated, Kervan offers a variety of dinner set menus that should make ordering easier.

T. 02-792-4767 | http://kervankebab.co.kr [ Map 8 D3]

FOOD/BEVERAGE PARKING IN PLATE Myeong-dong’s unusually named Parking in Plate sports an interior just as unusual as its name—in fact, it does resemble a parking garage, with car parts incorporated into the furniture and decor. As an added touch, most of the dishes and drinks are artfully presented in stainless steel plates and vessels.

Parking in Plate is best known for its uniquely Korean take on the pizza—sure, it’s got dough and cheese, but you eat it with a spoon rather than by hand. The cream and seafood pasta, Korean-style gochujang (red pepper paste) pasta, and fresh pasta salad are worth trying, too.

T. 070-8828-8253 [

Map 4

MARCH

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’S PICK OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

C3]

6

1

3

5

2

7

ACCOMMODATION

4

8 10

THE PLAZA You can’t ask for a better location than The Plaza— overlooking Seoul City Hall, it’s in the very beating heart of Seoul itself. Renovated by renowned Italian designer Guido Ciompi, the historic business hotel now embodies the warmth and intimacy of a boutique hotel with custom furniture and an inviting design. The room design is truly stunning, and the upper floors offer superb views of downtown Seoul.

The Plaza’s eateries offer something for every taste and budget—in particular, the Tao Yuen is one of Seoul’s most respected Chinese restaurants.

T. 02-771-2200 | www.hoteltheplaza.com [ Map 1 B4]

9

Map

1

Gwanghwamun Area Seoul’s old downtown

Map

2

Insa-dong

Map

6

Map

3

ART/CULTURE

Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

MUSIC SHOW WEDDING Map

Bringing together some of Korea’s top musical talent, Music Show Wedding is a comic tale told in the universal language—music. A wedding is all set to begin, but the groom still has some work to do to win over his soon-to-be father-in-law. Unfortunately, nothing he tries quite works out. What does result, though, is lots and lots of fun. If you liked Nanta, you’ll like this.

T. 02-736-8289 Cinema Jeong-dong [ Map 1 B3]

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon

4

Map

5

Map

7

Map

Myeong-dong

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

Map

9

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

8

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet

Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s most hippest college town areas

A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

Map

10

Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond

Maps & guides The Gwanghwamun area, named for the landmark gate that marks the entrance of historic Gyeongbokgung Palace, is Seoul’s “old” downtown and where you’ll find Seoul’s enchanting royal palaces as well as other historical and cultural sites, such as Insa-dong, Bukchon, and Jeong-dong.

Map 1 GWANGHWAMUN AREA A

1

M

Line 1

M

Line 8

M

Line 2

M

Line 9

B

Metro

Tip

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

M

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

If you’re lost, seek out a nearby Tourist Information Center (marked on our Maps & Guides) or one of the helpful tourist information guides, easily recognized by their red uniforms with an “i” of them.

Change your smile in a single day

Samcheong-dong

Ca'Del Lupo Tongin Market

2

3

Bärlin C2 02-722-5622

Somerset Palace Seoul C2 02-6730-8888

Secure and comfortable accommodation with inspiring views of www.somerset.com Gyeongbokgung.

Authentic German cuisine in the heart of Seoul

Duomo Books & Cooks

Seochon

o Se

Gastro TONG

ul r Fo

Jeongdok Public Library

Wooilyo Gallery Shop

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Changgyeonggung Palace

Bukchon Art Hall National Palace Museum of Korea (Gogungddurak) Seoul Selection Bookshop Tosokchon Changdeokgung Palace Gwanghwamun GCS The Kitchen International Gamrodang Salvatore Hwanghakjeong Bldg. & Bar Farmers (Archery Practice Site) Barn M Gyeongbokgung Stn. Somerset 1 Anguk Stn. Sajik Park M Jongmyo Palace Seoul 2 National Museum of Korean Gwanghwamun Sungkok Contemporary History 3 Shrine Art Museum Art Hall (PAN) Unhyeongung National Museum of Korean Contemporary History New York Ssamziegil Royal Residence Gwanghwamun Square Dongnimmun Stn. Wholistic Care M Tteok Museum (Institute of Insa-dong 5 Embassy of Ilpumdang Traditional Korean Food) the United States Jogyesa Temple B3 02-733-4949 Delicious Japanese shabu shabu Gongpyeong-dong Sejong Center for and sukiyaki hot pot dishes made Nagwon Arcade using only the finest quality, the Performing Arts Kkomjangeo freshest ingredients KT Olleh Square M Gwanghwamunjip Seoul Museum 5 Piccadilly Theater Kyobo Book Centre Independence Jongno of History Indie Space Cheongjinok Danseongsa Gate Tower Tapgol Park Memorial / The.Me / Kumho Art Hall M Gyeonghuigung Jongno 3-ga Stn. Gwanghwamun Stn. M Monument Mijin Memilguksu M M Jonggak Stn. Woori Nara Palace 4 to Emperor YP Books Dongwha Duty Free Shop Gojong Seoul Theater (Jump) Miller Time Cine Cube Seoul City Tour Bus TomaTillo www.shinhan.com Cheonggye Ilmin Museum of Art Cine Core Shinhan Bank Plaza Seoul Global Center Koreana Hotel Cinema Jeong-dong La Cuisine Shinhan Bank 4 Woo Lae Oak (Music Show Wedding) Seoul Global Center Cheonggyecheon Stream National Art Museum, B3 02-773-3131 Franciscan School Deoksugung Daelim Contemporary Art Museum Cafè Earthlings

all W ss

tre

s

3

Bukchon Hanok Village

National Folk Museum

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

2

1

IP&I www.ipidc.co.kr C2 02-735-1135

Restaurants & Bars Shops Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

D

Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Lost?

M

C

The first branch in Korea exclusively for international residents

CHONGDONG THEATER (MISO)

Munhwailbo Hall Seodaemun Stn. M

Press Center Seoul Global Center(3F) City Hall

Jeong-dong

Vabien Suites 4

The British Embassy

Deoksugung Palace

Seoul Museum of Art

Euljiro 3-ga Stn. M

Royal palaces

10:00 am

The Gwanghwamun area’s biggest attractions are its royal palaces. Located right at the end of Gwanghwamun Square B2, Gyeongbokgung Palace B2 is the most monumental and probably the easiest to visit and explore. To experience the epitome of Korean traditional architecture, though, head to Changdeokgung Palace D2 , with its spectacular, UNESCO-registered gardens, the most beautiful in Korea.

Lunch Plan A Insa-dong/Bukchon

01:00 pm 02:00pm

Many international visitors head to Insa-

MM

Euljiro 1-ga Stn. Inje Univ. Stress Center

Seoul Plaza City Hall Stn. M M

The Plaza

Appenzeller Noble Memorial Museum Kuryeo Samgyetang French Institute Ohyangjokbal

EXPLORING GWANGHWAMUN

Yangmiok

dong (see Map 2 ), a bustling neighborhood of galleries, workshops, antique stores, teahouses and Korean restaurants. For a truly memorable experience, though, spend your afternoon exploring the quaint alleyways of the Bukchon neighborhood (see Map 3 ), home to Seoul’s largest collection of Korean-style hanok homes.

Myungbo Art Hall Myeong-dong

Gwanghwamun Square

07:30 pm

In the evening, stop by Gwanghwamun Square B2 , which is lit up at night. The area around the square is one of Seoul’s most interesting, with palaces, museums, performing arts venues and shops.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Plan B Jeong-dong

02:00pm

Another neighborhood worth exploring is Jeong-dong B4, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, where you’ll find lovely old churches, schools and diplomatic compounds.

Also part of Jeong-dong is fascinating Deoksugung Palace B4, with its eclectic Korean and Western architecture.

Dinner

05:30 pm

TomaTillo C3 (T. 02-734-9225) An outstanding Cali-Mex restaurant with branches here and in Itaewon and Gangnam.

Farmers Barn D2 (T. 02-743-9233) Top-of-the-line handmade hamburgers with organic ingredients for a fresh taste.

Gwanghwamunjip B3 (T. 02-739-7737) One of the most famous kimchi stew (gimchi jjigae) restaurants in the area.

Ohyangjokbal B4 (T. 02-753-4755)

Kim Sam Bo

Some of the best jokbal (boiled pig’s trotters) in Seoul. Comes with rice-cake soup, too! Near Seoul City Hall.

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo C3 (T. 02-738-1769) Barbecue-broiled eel and pork chitterlings in a retro interior. Near Jonggak Station (Line 1).

The.Me C3 (T. 02-2075-6611) They don’t serve many side dishes here, but the Korean beef they serve is top-rate. On the third floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

Cheongjinok C3 (T. 02-735-1690) They’ve been doing haejangguk (Korean hangover soup) since 1937. First floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

Tosokchon B2 (T. 02-737-7444) Seoul’s best-known purveyor of samgyetang (ginseng-chicken soup). Always full. Not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.

37 Once known (for reasons unknown) as “Mary’s Alley,” Insa-dong started off as an alley of antique dealers and is now one one of Seoul’s major centers of Korean traditional art and culture.

Map 2 INSA-DONG A

B

C

Tip Korea Pass

uk

Ang

Bukchon

The Korea Tourism Organization offers Korea Pass, a prepaid card that offers not only plenty of benefits at tourism-related sites, but can also be used as a transportation card. See www. koreapass.or.kr for details.

D

Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Stn.

Dimibang Nwijo Sagwanamu

Doriking

1

Line 1

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Line 8

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Line 9

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Bundang Line

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Line 5

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Airport Railroad

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Line 6

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Gyeongui Line

Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

M

Chon

Ma Vie

Miss Lee Café Gana Art Space

Cheondogyo Central Temple

The Moon Bird Thinks of the Moon Only

Min's Club Sin Yetchatjip

2

Jogyesa Temple (Central Buddhist Museum)

OSULLOC Gallery Artside

Balwoo Gongyang (5F)

Sanchon

Tongin Store

Insan Inhae

Nagwon Arcade (4F, Cinematheque / Seoul Art Cinema)

IT'S SKIN

La Mer g - il hwa Tae

Tea Museum

Dolsilnai

Insadong Jukumi VOOK's Gallery

Nami Island Culture Tour Information

Chilgapsan Seoul Art Center

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo

Tteuran

National Souvenir Center

g on n a-d tio Ins rsec e Int

Sun Gallery Gong Art Space

3

Fraser Suites

Jilkyungyee

Hotel SunBee

Hotel Aventree Jongno

O'NGO

Yetchatjip (2F)

Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul

You can arrange a stay at a Buddhist temple.

Jongno Tteokjip

Dubu Maeul Mera Hatt Park Yeong-suk Yo

Haejeong Hospital

Center Mark Hotel

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Crown Hotel

Sudo Pharmacy

Dolsilnai

Beoldeok Kalguksu/ Nolboo Budaejjigae & Cheolpangui

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Ssamzigil

1 Templestay Information Center A2 02-2031-2000

Gyo-dong Elementary School

Restaurants & Bars Shops

Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art (Dawon)

Insa Art Center Mokin Gallery

1

Ikseon-dong

Tobang

Bonjuk

Metro

M

Naminsa Open Theater Seung Dong Presbyterian Church Manseok Dakhanmari

Jongno Tower (Top Cloud 33F) Done Zone

Bandi & Luni's 4

IT'S SKIN

Jonggak Stn.

YP Books

Bosingak Belfry

10:00 am

Insa-dong is comprised of one main street and the alleyways that branch off from it.

Along the main street you’ll find most of Insa-dong’s galleries and shops, while the restaurants and teahouses can be found in the alleyways. Major galleries to check out are the Kyung-in Museum of Art C2 (lovely teahouse here, too), Insa Art Center B2, Kong Gallery B3, VOOK’s Gallery C3 (great if you like books) and the fascinating Mokin Gallery B3, dedicated to Korean totemism.

Lunch Exploring Insa-dong’s past

M Sguane

KT Global Store Cine Core (JUMP)

Akbari Pocha

04:00pm

12:30 pm 02:00pm

Kumkang

YMCA

Nagwon Arcade D2 is Asia’s largest collection of musical instrument shops. The nearby restaurants are cheap but good.

Dinner

Bon Bibimbap

Jewelry Market

Insa-dong has its fair share of history, too.

In an alley just off the main street is historic Seung Dong Presbyterian Church C3 (1902), and in another is the grand, Art Nouveau central temple of Cheondogyo C1 (1921), an indigenous Korean faith. Near Insa-dong are Unhyeonggung Palace D1 , a gorgeous 19th century Korean villa well worth exploring, and Tapgol Park D4, Seoul’s first Westernstyle park.

Nagwon Arcade

Tapgol Park

Dubu Chon

Beer Pong

EXPLORING INSA-DONG Galleries tour

Insa-dong Culture Plaza

05:30 pm

Ssamzigil

07:00 pm

A neighborhood with a neighborhood, Ssamzigil B2 is a culture and shopping complex comprised of four floors of stores, restaurants and workshops. It’s home to about 70 shops in all. Recommended ones include Galpi (books), Sky Lake (cosmetics made with Korean traditional herbs), Chinjeolhan Hyeonja-ssi (Korean cuisine/ broiled fish) and Bukchon Sonmandu (Korean dumplings). In the basement there is also a branch of Gogung, the famed Jeonju bibimbap restaurant.

Buddhist cuisine, this famed eatery does great vegetarian cuisine, with Korean traditional dance performances in the evening.

Min’s Club C1 (T. 02-733-2966) Fusion is the name of the game here, both in terms of the architecture (a fusion hanok from the 1930s) and the cuisine (fusion dishes mixing Korean and Western flavors).

Toetmaru Doenjang Yesul C2 (T. 02-739-5683) Run by poet/photographer Park Jung-sik, this lively place specializes in gang doenjang, a very thick, rich soy bean paste stew.

Balwoogongyang A2 (T. 02-2031-2081) Specializing in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

Dubu Maeul C2 (T. 02-735-9996)

Sanchon C2 (T. 02-735-0312)

The taste of Korean traditional homemade tofu and pungent, healthy cheonggukjang soybean stew.

Run by a Buddhist monk and expert in Korean

Maps & guides In Samcheong-dong and Bukchon, traditional hanok homes, aged stone walls, contemporary galleries, and fashionable cafés intermingle in a relaxed and cheerful atmosphere.

Map 3 SAMCHEONG-DONG / BUKCHON A

B

A good way to see the city on the cheap is Seoul City Tour Bus (www.seoulcitybus. com), where a single ticket brings you to many of the city’s top destinations. You can get on and off as many times as you like.

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

De miel Yongsusan

The Board of Audit and Inspection of Korea

Owl Museum

Maple Tree House

Seoul City Tour

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

D

Samcheong Park

Tip

Restaurants & Bars Shops

1

C

Beonsachang

Second Best Place in Seoul

Korea Banking Institute

Sosonjae Samcheong-dong Office Dal 1887

Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Baedongbaji

Samcheong Sujebi

Gallery Kong

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Line 1

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Line 8

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Airport Railroad

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Gyeongui Line

Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

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Romanée Conti

8

El Casa

Dalhangari Cheongsujeong

Silkroad Museum Chez Simon Bukchon Hanok Village (31 Gahoe-dong) 6

Chung 4

Tea Garden 5 (Cha Masineun Tteul)

Brazil Embassy Jinsun Book Café

Kukje Gallery

Hwang Saengga Kalguksu Keun Giwa House Art Sonje Center UUL National Art Museum, Seoul (open 2013)

Dongsipjagak

Mugsh Donna

www.seoulselection.com

Have a cup of coffee and read about Korea’s culture, history and literature, as well as useful living information.

-gil

Culture Station for Tourists

Seoul Selection Bookshop A4 02-734-9565

Dahmsojung

DooRoo Café

Cha Hyang Gi Tea Shop Café 4M 2 AYA SOPHIA

Bukchon Gamasot Seolleongtang

Seoul Selection Bookshop

Dong Lim Museum

Donmi Pharmacy

Hwanggeumal Sikdang

Bukchon Guest House

Rak-Ko-Jae

Gallery NaMu

Romanée Conti

1

Rossini AYASOPHIA Wedding dress C3 070-7518-1088

www.aya-sophia.com | TUE-SUN AM 10:30-PM 8:00 This wedding shop is hidden away in an alley near Bukchon’s Jeongdok Library deals almost exclusively in wedding dresses. Prices are quite reasonable, just $200 to $600. You can try them on before making up your mind, and prices are all marked. Reception dresses, wedding shoes, and wedding accessories can be purchased at reasonable prices, too. For the time being, when you buy a dress, they’ll throw in an accessory for free.

The B Beautiful Store Savina Museum

Reminis Cake

2

Ulim Fair Trade Shop Andrew’s Eggtart

Seoul Guest House

Namwon

The Constitutional Court of Korea

g:ru Byeolgung Sikdang

Jae-dong Elementary School

Home of Former President Yun Boseon

Byeolgung-gil

1

Stori

1

Han Sangsu Embroidery Museum

Bukchon Art Museum

Gyedong Mananim

Gamgodang

4

Jeongdok Public Library

dodo& Coffee & Dessert

Africa Museum of Art

Gallery Hyundai

3

Bukchon Hanok Village (11 Gahoe-dong)

Blacksmith's Oven-baked Pizza

CineCode Sonje Arario Gallery Joseon Gimbap Sophia Guest House

Kumho Museum of Art

Ahnkook Zen Center

Gahoe Museum

World Jewellery Museum Mirandoisa

Hakgojae Gallery

Dugahun

Gahoe-dong Catholic Church

Make My Rainbow TNGT

Gyeongbokgung Palace

3

YIDO

Simsimheon

Soowarae

The National Folk Museum of Korea

Choongang High School

7

8 Steps

Chataigne

Gah oe-d ong Tour

2

BeansBins Cook'n Heim Bukchon Museum

Sam che ong don g-gi l

Flora

Metro

.

Anguk Stn

Bukchon Changwoo Theater

Japan Cultural Center

EXPLORING SAMCHEONGDONG AND BUKCHON Seoul Selection Bookshop

09:30 am

Begin your exploration at Seoul Selection Bookshop A4, where you can browse our wide selection of English language books on Korea.

31 Gahoe-dong

10:30 am

Bukchon Hanok Village C2 is Seoul’s largest collection of Korean traditional hanok homes. There’s a lot to see up here, but the best views are to be had at 31 Gahoe-dong C2, an inclined road lined with

lovely Korean homes. One home, the Simsimheon C2, is open to the public (10,000 won, includes cup of plum tea). Map available from tourist information booth in front of Jeongdok Public Library B3.

Lunch

11 Gahoe-dong

12:30 pm 02:00pm

Explore 11 Gahoe-dong D2, another cluster of hanok homes, some of which have been converted into workshops and galleries such as the Gahoe Museum D2 and the Han Sangsu Embroidery Museum D2. Just past 11 Gahoe-dong is picturesque Choongang High School D2. Also near 11 Gahoe-dong

is Ahnkook Zen Center D2, which hold Zen meditation classes in English every Saturday from 2:30pm to 4pm.

Samcheong-dong

04:00pm

You’ll find a ton of cafés, eateries and quaint boutiques in Samcheong-dong B2/C1.

If you’re feeling so inclined, you can follow the road all the way to Samcheong Park C1, a very nice place to stroll about in spring.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES De miel c1 (T. 02-720-1307) Serving fusion Italian cuisine, this place has been hot lately with the young crowd.

Sosonjae C1 (T. 02-730-7002) Those with a “healthy living” kick can check out Sosonjae, which does Korean cuisine prepared with herbs.

BeansBins C1 (T. 02-736-7799) Great waffles and coffee from all over the world in Samcheong-dong.

Byeolgung Sikdang B4 (T. 02-736-2176) This place does some of the best cheonggukjang (a hearty soybean stew) in the city.

Samcheong Sujebi B1 (T. 02-735-2965) Serves up some great potato dough flakes.

39 Frequently compared to Tokyo’s Shinjuku neighborhood, Myeong-dong is a district of neon lights, electronic billboards, department stores, high-end retail shops, good food, and lots and lots of people.

Map 4 MYEONG-DONG A

B

C

D

Tip

Hanbit Media Park

Duty-Free Shops Duty-free stores in Seoul include the Shinsegae (Map 4), Lotte (Map 4), Walkerhill (Gwangnaru Stn., Line 5), Shilla (Map 5) and Dongwha (Map 1).

See maps for exact locations.

2

3

SKT Tower Books Libro

1

4 Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn.

1

KEB Square Korea Exchange Bank

5

8 7

2

6

Unde rgrou nd Sh oppin g Cen ter

Lotte Dept.

Store 10 Corso Commo AvenueL Wongudan Shrine Lotte AvenueL

Westin Chosun

Kepco

Metro Hotel

M

Line 9

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

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Line 6

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Gyeongui Line

Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

Restaurants & Bars Shops Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Suyedang's exquisite Hwakwaja snacks are come in a bewildering variety of beautiful colors and shapes—the best thing, though, is that they are made from natural recipes that use only Korean traditional plant-based ingredients and taste every bit as good as they look. They make ideal New Year's gifts if you can resist eating them yourself.

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Café Droptop

Ibis

Myeongdong Dongkas

Krispy Aritaum Kreme

Gong Cha

YWCA

OSULLOC Myeongdong Theater

Dononburi Myeong-dong

Taj

Myeong-dong Catholic Center

Teenie Weenie WhoAU / TOPTEN10 8 Seconds MISSHA Ttarojip Baekje Samgyetang Laneige TNGT

Skin Food

IT'S SKIN

Hat's On

Gogi Juneun Naengmyeonjip 3

Din Tai Fung

Zen Hideaway

Spicy Color Etude House A Land The Saem Savoy Hotel Beaute

Myeong-dong Intersection The Korea Post

Etude House Ggong Si Myeon Gwan

Shinsegae Dept. Store

Skin Food

Everysing

Jongno Bindaetteok 4

10:00 am

Any proper exploration of the Myeong-dong neighborhood should begin at Myeong-dong intersection A4, home to some wonderful examples of early 20th century architecture.

11:00 am

Walking along the main street towards Eulji-ro and you’ll pass the bustling Lotte Young Plaza A2, Lotte Avenuel A2 and Lotte Department Store A2. Get your credit card ready.

01:00 pm 02:00pm

Across from the Lotte Department Store A2 is where the real fun begins. You’ll find the big

Beautiplex The Saem Tabby

international name brands along the main drag, but check out the back alleys for more reasonable priced mid-range brands.

Myeong-dong Cathedral

05:00 pm

At the east end of Myeong-dong, sitting atop a hill overlooking the commercialism, is Myeong-dong Cathedral C3. Built by French missionaries in 1898, the beautiful Gothic church also played an important role in Korea’s democratization movement of the 1980s.

Dinner

Myeong-dong at night

6

5 4

Hugo Spa

8

7 3

ong Stn.

Myeong-d

2

10

9

Sejong Hotel

1

ASTORIA HOTEL (BELLA COOLLA 63) / 1 Namsangol Hanok Village / Korea House / Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater Chungmuro Stn., Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Chinatown B3 It won’t rival San Francisco’s Chinatown anytime soon, but it’s still a great place to score good Chinese food.

Myoung-dong Kyoja C2/C3 (T. 02-776-7384, 02-773-3364) This Myeong-dong institution has been serving kalguksu (handmade noodles) and dumplings since 1966.

Bella Coolla 63 D4 (T. 02-2275-7473)

06:00pm

A New York-style Italian restaurant, located in Astoria Hotel, is a great choice if you are in the mood for pasta or steak.

07:00 pm

Donburi Myeong-dong D2 (T. 02-2235-1123)

Just wander around in take in the lights.

And the crowds! If you’re a Korean Wave fan, check out Everysing B4 (T. 02-778-9850), a shop selling merchandise of actors and singers with SM Entertainment.

Myeong-dong Shooting Range

IT'S SKIN

BBQ Premium Café

State Tower Namsan

Myeong-dong Intersection

Roem

Migliore Roxy

1

M-Plaza Astoria Hotel D4 02-2268-7111 Located in Chungmuro, the Astoria (Seoul Global Culture & Tourism Center) is one of Seoul's most historic hotels and home to one of its finest Italian Beaute restaurants.

Grandma's Nakji Etude House Sunshine Byeollan Platform Place Gogung Halbaejip

SPAO

Onedang Gamjatang

EXPLORING MYEONG-DONG

Chungmu Kimbap Parking in Plate Myoungdong Kyoja Fugetsu

Aritaum

Chinatown

Bank of Korea

Samilro Changgo Theatre Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral

Unesco House

NANTA THEATER IT'S SKIN

More shopping!

Line 2

M

Suyedang Hwakwaja A2 02-726-4094 | www.suyedang.com

Coin

Myeongdong Sundubu

Lotte Young Plaza Noon Square Level 5 (5F)

Lunch

Line 8

Seoul Royal Hotel

Arirang

Retail therapy

M

M

70s Radio Pub

2 SUYEDANG

Line 1

M

Neobijip

Lotte Hotel Pierre’s Bar (35F) Mugunghwa (38F)

2

Korea Foundation Cultural Center

Metro

M

Japanese-style rice bowls, with fresh wasabi brought straight from Japan.

Gogi Juneun Naengmyeonjip B3 (T. 02-772-9991) There are few nicer meals than grilled meat

followed by naengmyeon (Korean chilled noodles).

Baekje Samgyetang B2 (T. 02-776-3267) A Myeong-dong institution, this place has been serving samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) for over 40 years. Very popular with the Japanese tourist crowd.

Ttarojip C2 (T. 02-776-2455) Sure, this place looks like it’s going to fall down, but it’s been serving some of the city’s best ttaro gukbap (rice and meat-broth soup) forever. Get the modeumjeon (an assortment of fried patties), too.

Chungmu Gimbap C3 (T. 02-755-8488) A simple gimbap served with pan-fried spicy squid and diced radish kimchi, or kkakdugi.

Ggong Si Myeon Gwan B3 (02-778-8863) A more affordable and casual dim sum restaurant. If you order xiaolongbao, a small serving of jajangmyeon (Chinese black bean noodles) comes free.

Maps & guides Dongdaemun is Seoul’s fashion mecca—within the sprawling Dongdaemun Market are countless shopping malls, specialty shops, and clothing designers producing cutting-edge designs for reasonable prices.

Map 5 DONGDAEMUN A

B

C

D

Mt. Naksan Daehangno

Ewha Womans Univ.

Dongdaemun Hospital Two Hotel

Doosan Art Center 1

Pakgane

Dongdaemun General Market

Pharmacy Area

Gwangjang Market

Cheonggyecheon Stream

Best Western Hotel

Doota

IT'S SKIN

Ala-Too Café Ojang-dong Naengmyeon Alley

Dongguk Univ.

Hyundai Residence

mu-ro Chung Grand Ambassador hotel

U:US

·· Nuzzon

M

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church

National Theater of Korea Shilla Hotel (Duty Free) Mt. Namsan

Seoul Club / Banyan Tree Club & Spa

If you’d like to take in the views from N Seoul Tower (www.nseoultower.co.kr), there are plenty of ways up the mountain, including buses, a cablecar and your own two legs.

Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Alley

M

Line 2

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Airport Railroad

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Gyeongui Line

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Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Arthouse Momo

lucycato Café de Chocolatier

Kosney

Zen II

Beer O'Clock Ark Shinchon

Krema

Minto

SushiEn

Brothers Hyung Jae Galbi Queen Live Hall Tea Caddy

1

Lee Kang Un Cuperm (4F)

2

Gopchang J

.

Dialogue in the Dark

Sinchon Stn.

Salon de Badabie

2

Caffe Zudy

1

Etone B2 070-7583-6431

This dessert café, run by Hwakwaja snack maker Suyedang, serves up a mouthwatering range of cakes, ice cream and drinks, not to mention Hwakwaja themselves.

ZEN Hair Salon Ewha Branch

Zen Hair Salon C1 02-362-4125

Grand Mart

Live Club Bban

Ewha Womans Univ. Stn

Atreon A treon

Hongik Univ.

Geek Live House

Mixxo

Hyundai UPLEX

Hyundai Dept.Store

Yes apM

San Kore

Sanwoollim Theater Sukara Café (1F)

. on Stn

Geopum qb Sanbong Hwarogui

Sinch

IT'S SKIN

Cheolgil Wan

All of Rock (AOR)

1

Yale Town 1

Metro

y) le Al

Lee Kang Un Cuperm (3F)

Line 8

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Doksuri Building Bock Sung Gak Chinese LA CELTIQUE Restaurant Club

M

A

Sinchon Train Station (Gyeongui Line)

Migliore

Line 1

Restaurants & Bars Shops

C

Ewha Womans Univ.

M

nt s ra ck u ra sta nT e ai t R Tr ea (M

B

Filmforum (700m)

Loving Hut

Sindang

Two of Seoul’s most hip college town areas, Sinchon and Ewha cater to all students on a tight budget, but still looking for fashion, food, and a little fun.

Yonsei Univ.

Etc. Coupon Affiliates

M Stn. M

Getting Up Mt. Namsan

Jangchung-dong Jokbal Restaurants

Pyeongyang Myeonok

A

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters

Chungmu Art Hall

Tip

Map 6 SINCHON / EWHA

Hyang Music

Restaurants & Bars Shops

Dongdaemun Dongdaemun M Design Plaza Samarkand Café History & Culture Park —under construction Central Asia Dongdaemun Ala Do Village History & Culture Park Stn. Darkhan M

Cheong Gye Cheon Museum

Designer Club

Good Morning City

2

Jungang Market

New Pyeonghwa Dong Pyeonghwa Market Market Da Chae

Migliore

Hello apM Megabox Dongdaemun

Park of Seoul Hunlyunwon

Jungbu Market

E-mart

Cheong Pyeonghwa Market

M

Cerestar

Bangsan Market

Western Co-op Residence Hotel Darkhan Café

Dongmyo Flea Market

Heunginjimun (Dongdaemun Gate)

IT'S SKIN

Pyeonghwa Market

Euljiro 4-ga Stn.

.

n Stn aemu

Dongd

M

Somunnan Wonjo M Jongno 5-ga Stn. Dak Hanmari Used Book Broiled Fish Alley Alley Monyeo Kkoma Gimbap Wedding Goods Market

yo Stn. Dongm Dongmyo Shrine

M M

2

Designers with an international education in styling

Sogang Univ.

City Guest House

Danimgil Makgeol

TAF (Total Art Festival Café and Bar)

EXPLORING SINCHON Exploring Korea’s historic universities

10:00 am

One of Korea’s most respected institutions of higher learning, Yonsei University A1 was founded by American missionaries in the early 20th century. Stroll around the pleasant campus, taking in the romantic, ivy-covered period architecture. After that, take a cab to Ewha Womans University C1, the world’s largest women’s university.

The campus, also established by American missionaries, is absolutely gorgeous.

Lunch

Noon

Have lunch. You’ll find plenty of restaurants in front of the universities. Sinchon is rife with delicious and cost-effective eateries and bars perfect for the miserly spender.

Shop

02:00pm

If you’re female and you like shopping, you’ll love the area around Ewha Womans University C1, where you’ll find everything for your fashion and beauty needs.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES SushiEn A1 (T. 02-365-3223)

With an abundance of nigiri, roll and even fruit options, rotating sushi bar SushiEn is one of Seoul’s only boastworthy Japanesestyle sushi joints.

Metro

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Line 1

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Line 8

Beer O’clock A1 (T. 02-333-9733)

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Line 2

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Line 9

Run by Canadians, has awesome beer.

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Line 3

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Bundang Line

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Line 4

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Jungang Line

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Line 5

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Airport Railroad

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Line 6

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Gyeongui Line

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Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

Tea Caddy C3 (T. 02- 313-7523) To regain your calm and class, stroll down to Tea Caddy, where teas from the world’s most prominent tea producers wait to regale you with a symphony of scents and flavors.

lucycato Café de Chocolatier C2 (T. 02-362-0050) If you’re back in Ewha, find some chocolate happiness with lucycato, stocked with coffee, waffles, cake and, above all, chocolate!

3

Dooriban

Tip

Hongdae Free Market & Seoul Live Music Festa Every Saturday Univ. holds an art and crafts market featuring work by local artisan Hongik Univ.-area clubs host the Seoul Live Music Festa every last F

41 EXPLORING DONGDAEMUN 07:00 pm

Dongdaemun Gate

Begin your exploration of Dongdaemun at its namesake, historic Dongdaemun Gate C1, the old eastern passage to Seoul. Built in 1869, the imposing gate and its stone walls are fitting tributes to the glory of the Joseon Dynasty.

EXPLORING HONGDAE

although these tend to most active at night, when the wholesalers do their trade. Come here anytime between 10pm and 3am, and you’ll find buyers from all over Korea and even overseas searching for deals on bulk purchases. The energy is electric.

08:00pm

Dongdaemun History & Culture Park C2 is a landmark piece of urban landscaping designed by famed British architect Zaha Hadid.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

Shopping!

10:00 pm

After you’ve taken in the history and culture, it’s time to get busy shopping. Dongdaemun Market is home to several massive fashion malls, including Doota Tower B1, Migliore B1 and Pyeonghwa Market A1. The shops here stock goods by younger, smaller designers.

Midnight

Wholesale market

Need a quick bite while you’re shopping?

This is probably the most convenient place to do so. Clean and delicious.

This area is famous for its restaurants specializing in jokbal , or marinated pig feet sliced and served with lettuce leaf and kimchi.

Dinner

East of Dongdaemun History & Culture Park C2 you’ll find still more shopping centers,

B

Central Asia Village B2 Home to many restaurants specializing in Uzbek, Russian and Mongolian cuisine. Most don’t look like much, but they do good food that is easy on the wallet, too.

Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Alley C2 The Sindang-dong neighborhood has an alley of restaurants that do Sindang tteokbokki, a dish of panfried rice cakes cooked in a spicy red pepper sauce with noodles, dumplings and other yummy things.

Pyeongyang Myeonok B2 (T. 02-2267-7784) Famous for naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles in a chilled turnip and beef broth. North Koreanstyle meat platters like obokjaengban and jaeok, and their fist-sized dumplings can’t be missed, too.

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RECOMMENDED EATERIES

The Hongdae area is best known for its nightlife, but it’s a pretty cool place in the day, too. Hongdae is one of Seoul’s most artistically vibrant neighborhoods.

Check out Mural Alley D1, an interesting experiment where young artists have been communicating with the masses since 1993. You’ll find plenty of other street art in the area, and then there’s always KT&G Sangsang Madang E2, a privately run cultural complex that not only hosts exhibits and performances in a variety of genres, but also provides support for local artists. Another gallery to check out is Pollala B1, a collection of toys by pop artist Hyeon Tae-jun.

If buying art is your thing, go on Saturday and stop by Hongdae Free Market D2, where local artists come to sell their works. It’s a good place to pick up some beautiful arts and crafts. The Hope Market D2, held on Sunday, is more of a traditional flea market.

After you’ve done some shopping, stop by A Land D2, where you can pick up fashion from up-and-coming local and international designers. After A Land E1, meanwhile, sells well-handled goods and post-season fashion for even better prices.

Jangchung-dong Jokbal Restaurants B2

09:00pm

Daylight

Exploring Hongdae’s art scene

Doota Food Court B1 Dongdaemun History & Culture Park

up. Hongdae is the heart of Korea’s indie culture, and the music and dance clubs here are the most popular in Korea.

Greek Joy D2 (T. 02-338-2100) Good gyros and souvlaki.

Cheolgil Wang Galbisal B1 (T. 02-332-9208) Great BBQ meat and delicious stew.

Hakata Bunko E1 (T. 02-338-5536) Tasty Japanese-style ramen noodles are available around the corner from the Far East Broadcasting Co.

Castle Praha E2 (T. 02-334-2121) A taste of the Czech Republic in Korea, this Czech-style beer hall houses a microbrewery (run by a Czech brew master).

405 Kitchen E2 (T. 02-332-3949) A pleasant Hongdae café with three spaces— hall, sedentary table room, and terrace—serves brunch by day and wine at night.

Vinyl E1 (T. 02-322-4161) This tiny drinking establishment serves up various cocktails in plastic bags with straws and has an atmosphere all of its own.

Little Terrace D2 (T. 02-333-3310) Little Terrace, or more precisely, “This Little Terrace Has Mesmerized Me,” is a fifth-floor wine bar that serves affordable wines in a romantic atmosphere. Oh yeah, and it’s got a terrace with nice views.

Nightime

Dance the night away

When the sun goes down, Hongdae heats

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2

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ng Galbisal

Hakata Bunko

nwoolim ean-Style Bar Lydian Sky High

Modern Design Museum

ng

Hongik Univ.

Jeongol

Didim Hall

Indifan Reggae Chicken

Toni & Guy Sk@

Jammers (B1F)

Alternative Space LOOP

Sangsu Stn.

Gyahaha

Noise Basement (NB2)

Jenny's Bread

Café Suda

Coffee Prince

1

Far East Broadcasting Co.

The Post Theater

Unit Saab dd

Platform Place

Hooper

Vinyl

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Gap Denim Studio

D'Avant

ley Al Gogos2 NOK Bread 05 Lot Rolling Hall FF ing TA k After A Land r Evans Lounge Pa Ronin El Bliss Design Museum aA F.ound Store Ska2 Fell+Cole Club Crack Shamrok Rock & Roll

Margarita lley Splash (1F) Mural A Tinpan Taehwa Plaza Harlem (NB1) Tang Inn Bar 75015 Gam Salon Café Kkum (B1) Bowling Center Myoung Wol Gwan Bar Exit Chili Cha Cha Cellar15 (1F) 405 Kitchen 2 Ice Waffle Eunhasu Dabang Lomography Korea Pomponnette Ullim (2F) Spot eathai Café Street Brownbreath Playground Little Terrace IAN Café (3F) Old Rock SoundHolicity Greek Joy Theater Louis Vins (4F) Snow Spoon Zari Dan Hana Castle Praha Zero Paul & Paulina Chie The Café de Solar y Freebird Ding Dong Bar Daq Club Auteur t Chloris Tea Live Club DGBD Cocoon i-gong M2 e Mimine & Coffee Q-vo OFF°C Multicultural Hello Kitty Cafe lli Pub Anseong Mart Museum Mapo Lifelong 1300K Seoul Art Space – Learning Center Café Eire Cuba Wang Seog40 Tora-b Ziller Zone Sapience 7 1300K Club Mansion Hongik Galbi Pedestrian-Friendly Trickeye Street Publishing Alley Café Danchu Museum (B1F) Ganggang Sullai A Land Pollala

Style Nanda

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NANTA THEATER

Tony Moly

Jongno Bindaetteok

V-Hall Club Vera

02-363-4253

Youngbin Wedding Hall

Hair & Joy B3 02-363-4253

1

Hair in its natural state

Lotte Cinema

BBQ Premium Café

Angel-in-us Coffee

Bobo Hotel

Prism Live Hall

Zoo

Mixxo

Hotel Seokyo

Hongik Univ. Stn.

y, the playground in front of Hongik ns. If you’re into dancing and live music, Friday of the month.

Gallery Zandari

Hapjeong Stn. Kyusoodang Wedding Hall

Bulgogi Brothers

Choseon Barbecue

Map 7 HONGDAE

The Hongdae (Hongik University) neighborhood is Korea’s indie culture center. On a weekend, this place is full of young people looking to have a good time in its many clubs and bars.

Maps & guides Itaewon is Seoul’s multicultural mecca, well-known for its excellent restaurants, exciting nightlife, and cosmopolitan clientele.

Once the entertainment district for US military personnel from the nearby Yongsan Garrison, the neighborhood has grown increasingly diverse and upscale in recent years. The main road of Itaewon is full of tailor’s shops and clothing stores.

Map 8 ITAEWON The Baker's Table A El-Grecos Magpie Two Hands Takeout Drawing T.G. Brunch Café Burger Craftworks Burn Phillies Taphouse & Bistro – The Concorde BAO Noxa (Taste of Thailand, Sukhumvit 2F) Haebangchon 1

Lazy Sue

Sushi Earl Le Saigon

Mi Madre(2F)

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Tip

Restaurants & Bars Shops

Hangang River The Hangang River is more than something to look at. Experience the river’s charms via a Hangang cruise (02-3271-6900), some yachting at Seoul Marina (www. seoul-marina.com), or by water taxi (www.pleasantseoul.com)!

Gyeongnidan

D

Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Buddha's Belly Standing Coffee Jungang Gyeongnidan

Powwow Seoul RES2GO Butter Cup

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Line 3

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Bundang Line

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Line 4

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Jungang Line

Itaewon Elementary School

ksa

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Line 5

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Airport Railroad

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Line 6

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Gyeongui Line

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Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

Baby Guinness

Stn

.

Hillside

Tony's Aussie Bar

Petra

Les Deux Plats

DISTRICT C2 02-749-3249

Wang Thai

What the Book?

Berlin

KT Embassy of the Republic of the Philippines

The 1st Avenue

Bull and Barrel

Peter Choi Le Saigon

Authentic American Pies & Brunch 02-3785-3400

Crown Hotel

Sample Garosu-gil

Noon

Take the subway to Sinsa Station (Line 3) and walk to Garosu-gil B1, the bohemian, tree-lined street with restaurants, cafés and boutiques. This is a good place to get lunch.

Shop till you drop in Apgujeong-dong

02:00pm

Innisfree Hwangso Maeul

Hamilton 143 E. Tailored Shirts Napoli Shopping District The Wolfhound

9am to 11 pm 365 Days a year

Club Volume

What better way to work off breakfast than with a pleasant stroll at Seonjeongneung C2, a set of royal tombs dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The wooded pathways are a natural refuge in the heart of the big city.

Tom N Toms

3

Yongsan-gu Office (Yongsan Art Center)

Hangang Middle School

10:00 am

Baebae

Tartine C3 02-3785-3400 www.tartine.co.kr Delicious Pies and Brunch and other wonderful desserts all hand made in our own kitchen Voted: Best in the Universe

Jamsil Stn. Jamsil Sports Complex Lotte Dept. Store The Ballerina Who Loved a B-boy

Lotte Hotel World Lotte World Charlotte Theater

Seokchon Lake (West)

Villa S

Foreign Food Mart

Salam Bakery

My Old Asia Jankura Artspace

04:00pm

do. If you get here early, you can check out the aquarium, one of Korea’s largest (closes at 8pm, but admission ends at 7pm). The Megabox Cineplex and its 16 screens are very popular, especially on the weekends.

There’s always the shops, of course, and if you’re hungry, you’ll find more restaurants here than you can count (including the food court).

Nightlife

11:00 pm

Time for some clubbing! From COEX, make your way to Cheongdam-dong C1 to rub shoulders with some of Seoul’s most conspicuously wealthy youngsters and world-class DJs. Club Ellui D1, one of the largest in Asia, is a good place to start and maybe even finish. The area is also full of chic wine bars and lounges—try Ark Lounge C1, Lound C1 or Club Circle Lounge C1.

THINGS TO DO COEX

Map 10 JAMSIL AREA

Nashville

Want to see the contrast between old and new in its most extreme? Get on the subway, head to Samseong Station (Line 2), and walk to Bongeunsa Temple D1, founded in the 8th century. The view of the graceful Korean buildings, with the glittering skyscrapers of Gangnam looming just beyond them, really leaves an impression. Be sure to visit on Buddha’s Birthday, when it hosts a paper lantern exhibit.

Seokchon Lake (East)

Between

P Helios The Frypan Homestead CasAntonio (2F) Sortino’s Coffee Amigos (1F) Itaewon Stn. Pancho's Itaewon Korean Red KT Fire Caliente Station Ginseng (Ita Kervan Cheong-kwan-Jan Flow Ankara Picnic Gecko's Moon Night Foreign Terrace Maharaja Restaurant Club After Jonny Hive La Casera Dumpling

Give your credit card a workout in nearby Apgujeong-dong B1/C1, Seoul’s ritziest neighborhood—the “Beverly Hills of Seoul” even has its own Rodeo Drive. The word “upmarket” doesn’t even begin to describe Galleria Luxury Hall, the ultra-high-end department store just up the road, with several exclusive European brand stores and a whole lot more (see p13).

Bongeunsa Temple Olympic Park

3

treet

National Museum of Korea

Morning stroll at Seonjeongneung

Dillinger's Bar Seoul

Gukje Arcade

NICE Itaewon Exchange Market Center J's Closet EST 1894

Al-Saba

EXPLORING GANGNAM

Kim's Boutique

Dakorner

3

écumé Santorini 19st. Neal’s Yard

ue S

Yongsan Electronics Market

Diner

Wood stock

1

Antiq

Main Street Gate Skin Food Suji's Cakeshop Gallery Golmok War Memorial of Korea

D'oro Hotel

Kodak Seoul Embassy Color Studio Pakistan Seoul Exchange M Center M Ali Baba (B

4

Alley Market

Pishon

La Cigale/ Montmartre

Hamilton Hotel

Eden Pottery

Foreign Exchange Seoul Arcade All American Booth

Smokey Saloon

B1 Lounge Club Naked Bar & Grill The Flying Pan Moghul Blue District

Pattaya My Thai China

Cup&Bowl

An Unparalleled Entertainment Experience, DISTRICT Offers Its Guests an Inviting Atmosphere, Sophisticated Modern Cuisine and World Class Entertainment In a Single Package. Three Venues, One District, Every Night. (Prost Pub&Grill, Glam Lounge, Club MUTE)

Buddha's Belly

Old Stand 3 Alley Pub

La Plancha All That Jazz

Gra

Mt. Namsan N Seoul Tower

Reilly’s Taphouse & Restaurant Gecko's Gallery Through Garden

Chadoljip

3

Line 9

Delicious and authentic French food in Itaewon

Scrooge Pub

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Line 8

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Le Saint-Ex C2 02-795-2465

Itaewon Foreign Bookstore

pye o

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Line 2

4

Thunder Burger

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Line 1

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Café O'HANA Waffle Factory Café T8 Taco Chili Chili

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Metro

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06:00pm

From Bongeunsa, walk to COEX D2, one of Asia’s largest shopping malls. You could spend hours here walking around; many

R&R at Spa G D2 (T.02-549-2073) Korea Ginseng Corp. has opened a spa utilizing the power of red ginseng.

43

and Hyatt Hotel Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art

2 Chungsachorong

02-792-2296 www.nywc.co.kr

New York Wholistic Care E3 02-792-2296 Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care (Gwanghwamun Branch B4, p6 730-9896)

Valentine II

Life is just a cup of cake

Embassy of Belgium

Dominic Hangangjin Stn./ Blue Square (NEMO)

n

Gallery Seoul IP Club Boutique Rococo Muntaro Vin Hotel Vino Bombomb y of

Daylight

Shopping, eating and a bit of culture

Foreign Exchange Booth

GLOBAL Real Estate Macaroni High Street Market Market Boom Bar, 2F) Itaewon Global Cheil Communications Sortino Village Center Bean's Village Pier8 Pieroth Wines

Two Broz.

Rocky Montain Thai Bon et Beau Tavern Orchid Jubilee Chocolatier Mind Body Seoul aewon Plaza) ng 2

Seoul Central Mosque

Offers fine Greek food such as souvlaki and gyros made by a Greek chef.

In recent years, Itaewon has experienced a great deal of gentrification. Accordingly, it is now home to some of Seoul’s best international restaurants. Don’t forget to explore the back alleys, too, where you’ll find some great eateries, especially behind the Hamilton Hotel C2.

Head to the area around Seoul Central Mosque E3 to find the heart of Korea’s Muslim community. Around the mosque are some halal eateries and other shops.

If you’re in the mood for shopping, Itaewon is the place for large-size clothing, leather goods, bonded goods and tailored suits. 143 E. Napoli C3 (T. 02-976-3404), run by a former film art director, is one of the best places to pick up tailored fashion.

Itaewon is also home to the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art F1. Architecturally splendid and with a wonderful site on the slopes of Mt. Namsan D1, the museum holds one of Korea’s biggest collections of traditional and contemporary art. Check out the Louise Bourgeois spiders in the courtyard, too.

Nightime

Party time

Itaewon has long been famous for its nightlife. The more upscale clubs and bars tend to be along the main drag, but you’ll find plenty of great places in the alleys, too. For a little piece of the old, pregentrification Itaewon, check out “Hooker Hill,” a collection of bars and clubs on a hill just south of the main street. Also nearby is “Homo Hill,” where you’ll find bars and clubs catering to Seoul’s LGBT community.

B

A

Tip

Hyundai Dept.

Store

Taking the bus out of Seoul

Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine Salsa Club Top

Classy wine bar overlooking Noksapyeong Station.

Mean Arab cuisine, especially Jordanian food.

Nashville C3 (T. 02-798-1592)

A vibrant bar overlooking Itaewon Station.

This place—an Itaewon institution since it opened in 1982—does some great burgers and other American-style comfort food.

Gecko’s Garden C2 (T. 02-790-0540)

My Thai China C2 (T. 02-749-9287)

Gecko’s Terrace C3 (T. 02- 749-9425)

A popular night spot behind the Hamilton Hotel. It has a particularly nice outdoor atmosphere.

Buddha’s Belly C2 (T. 02-796-9330)

Chinese and Thai cuisine in exotic, welldesigned surroundings. Owned by a famous Korean entertainer.

Two Broz. E3 (T. 02-790-0610)

Try for exotic Thai food.

Handmade hamburgers with a classy flavor at friendly prices.

Le Saint-Ex C2 (T. 02-795-2465) Delicious and authentic French food in Itaewon.

La Plancha C2 (T. 02-790-0063)

Between D2 (T. 02-795-6164)

écumé C3 (T. 02-3477-7378)

Restaurant, Lounge, Garden.

The new landmark in Itaewon—Enjoy contemporary Italian cuisine in Seoul.

The most stylish lounge and restaurant.

A restaurant that serves Italian cuisine.

19st. Neal’s Yard C3 (T. 02-794-7278)

Tartine C3 (T. 02-3785-3400)

Dessert specialty store.

Tartine Bakery & Café serves authentic and delicious pies and other desserts made in our own kitchen by hand.

Ankara Picnic D3 (T. 02-793-2550)

Luv Superlounge C2 (T. 010-8826-6777 / 010-4523-7654)

Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro A1 (T. 02-794-2537)

The only place to properly unwind in style.

Vin Vino E2 (T. 02-790-7043)

They serve Turkish kebabs and ice cream.

Korea’s only foreign-owned brewpub unveils its latest seasonal beer: Jirisan “Moon Bear” India Pale Ale.

A great place to have a glass of wine. Happy hour is every Wednesday, 6pm−midnight, with 50% off on glass wine.

Moghul C2 (T. 02-796-5501)

All American Diner B3 (T. 02-790-0411)

Sortino’s E3 (T. 02-797-0488)

Famous for its American-style breakfasts.

3 Alley Pub C2 (T. 02-749-3336) A popular expat hangout, it’s a European-

C

Galleria Dept. Store

Indian/Pakistani restaurant within a tranquil garden.

One of Seoul’s most popular Italian restaurants, this Itaewon eatery does great pasta and pizzas.

D M

Ttukseom Resort Stn.

JYP Entertainment Cube Studio / Café

o gy

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md

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Club Ellui Dunkin Donuts Club Answer 1 Hotel Riviera Seoul

Cheongdam M Stn.

Avenue Juno C1 010-3080-3669

Meet stylist Shin Sun-ju, a fluent English speaker who spent five years in the UK working for prestigious salons, including Vidal Sassoon and Toni&Guy.

Pancakes Listen Super Lounge Yoondang Art Hall Platoon Kunsthalle Hongmi Dakbal M Gangnam-gu M Atelier Hermes IndiePlus Bongeunsa Temple Jamsil Area Office Stn. Club Museum of Intercontinental Johnson House Double Eight M Sinsa Stn. Korean Seoul COEX ASEM Tower Embroidery Gui Daehak Pro-Soy Crab M Imperial Palace Hak-dong Stn. Mango Six KEPCO Hotel M Jamwon Stn. Baekam Ramada Hwogo Jip COEX Club Art Hall Hotel Nonhyeon Stn. M Octagon Samjung M Seolleung Oakwood Hotel Park Hyatt Seonjeongneung Park The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul Premier Hotel 2 M Stn. Seonjeongneung Best Western Premier Banpo Stn. M Samseong Stn. Gang Nam Hotel Hotel The Designers Bamboo Grand Urban Hive House Club Heaven InterContinental Dulwich Ogada Central City(Shinsegae Dept. Store) Seoul Parnas College M Novotel Ambassador Gangnam Spa G M M SEOUL Sinnonhyeon Stn. M Club Eden LG Arts Seolleung Stn. Center Sapyeong Stn. Renaissance Hotel Seoul Kukkiwon M Gangnam Let's JW Marriott Kyobo Tower Sinbanpo play Yeoksam Stn. M Stn. Gangnam Stn. Area M M M Caffe Bene Chicken n´ Chips Selfbar Gangnam Finance Center Express Bus Evispomme 200 Brauhaus Terminal Stn. M Dental Hospital Shy Bana Mixxo M Gangnam Stn. Brooklyn the Burger Joint Java City 3 M Hanti Stn. Seorae Village Seorae Global Viva Luce Village Center Gangnam, literally “south of the river”, is Seoul’s relatively new and affluent The National neighborhoods south of the Hangang River. Here you’ll find upscale shopping, trendy M Bangbae Middle Library of Korea M School ge ow Brid inb po t Ra Ban nligh o Mo ntain Fou

Perché LG Fashion Pop-up Store

Brown breath

One of the most highly regarded brunch spots in Seoul.

Berlin A3 (T. 02-749-0903)

Petra A3 (T. 02-790-4433)

If you’re heading out of Seoul Gallery Mad for Garlic M by bus, you haveHannam two options.

Hyundai Stn. Apgujeong Express buses (gosok beoseu) Jamwon Tea M Stn. Aura follow the highways, and are Pitch Apgujeongrodeo Stn. The M Therapy usually faster.Museum Inter-city buses National Jungsikdang Grill take non-highway routes. of Korea Apgujeong-dong Jang Cheon Art Hall Express buses are boarded Pierrot Strike Hangang A Twosome Place by 51K CGV at Express Bus Terminal (for School Take Dosan Park Forever21 Samwon Garden destinations in the Gyeongsang Food Urban Park Col•l•age+ Space *C provinces and GangwonAround Cube Secret Nail Doo do) and Central City Terminal The Corner Entertainment HorimMercado Boo Gangnam (for destinations in the Jeolla Garosu-gil Amapola 1 Art Center Myeonok La Casa provinces).

Butterfinger

n Ha

1

Suji’s A3 (T. 02-797-3698)

Santorini C2 (T. 02-790-3474)

egyo

F

The National Theater of Korea

style pub with all the usual pub food.

Yeo ngd ong dae gyo

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RECOMMENDED EATERIES

Che ongd amd a

EXPLORING ITAEWON

M

Map 9 GANGNAM AREA

cafés and bars, big shopping malls and one of Korea’s most popular amusement parks.

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255 Hogupo

256 Namdong Induspark

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This government campaign website has details of great tourism offers.

Pre-paid tourism card offering discounts nationwide.

254 Incheon Nonhyeon

121

253 Soraepogu

257

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Visit Korea Year Korea Pass

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First stop for all things tourism-related Tourism, accommodation, events, dining and much more Answering most of your questions on Seoul in English and various other languages

252 Wolgot

259 258 Songdo Yeonsu

Kkachiul 751

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Ta ps eo k So ng sa n Eo ryo ng Go nja e Hy joa Gy e Go ong Of vern gi P fic m ro e en vin t c N Sa ort ial em he rn al Do ng o

Korea Tourism Organization Seoul Tourism Organization 120 Dasan Call Center

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754 Sinjung-dong 755 Bucheon City Hall 756 Sang-dong 757 Samsan 758 Gymnasium 759 Gulpocheon

Bucheon Stadium 752 753 Chunui

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1330 120 120

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http://english.visitkoreayear.com www.koreapass.or.kr/en

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr www.visitseoul.net

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U Ju ijeon ng gb an u H g e un gs eo Ui n je Ci ong ty b Ha u ll Ui jeo ng bu B e om go l Ho ery on g Ba lgo k

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Trained medical personnel on call 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. English spoken English language assistance may be limited.

English language may be limited.

See the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade’s website for a thorough list.

Emergency Medical Information Center Police Fire Foreign embassies in Korea

2144 Seonjeongneung

2122 Apgujeongrodeo

211 Seoul Forest

112 119

1339

www.mofat.go.kr

http://world.1339.or.kr

LRT Uijeongbu

Suin Line

Sinbundang Line

Gyeongui Line

Airport Railroad

Jungang Line

Bundang Line

Incheon Line 1

Line 9

Line 8

Line 7

Line 6

Line 5

Line 4

Line 3

Line 2

Line 1

SEOUL METRO

Seoul of zen

Oriental medicine 45

PRENATAL CARE THE DEVELOPMENT OF NEW LIFE

A

The bead in the well If you happen to be fortunate enough to get back the invaluable bead you dropped in the deep well once upon a time whose depth can’t be known, who should you owe this to?

“Do seek the bead in the deep well.

Should you find it sometime, you could fly ninety thousand miles at a breath riding a dragon flying into the sky.”

new human life starts from two tiny cells that carry the information packets of two individuals. Once these merge, they trigger an incredible process of cell division which, after nine months, results in a small but fully-developed and viable human being.

The growth process during those nine months takes place in a highly protected environment, the mother’s womb. In this paradisiac environment, the fetus is kept warm and cozy. It is nourished by its mother’s blood and protected from all external environmental threats.

In order to maintain this idyllic condition throughout pregnancy, a healthy reproductive system is crucial. In the view of traditional Korean medicine, a successful pregnancy must be prepared in advance because the womb and ovaries need to be in good condition to accommodate the fetus.

In Korean medicine, the reproductive system is associated with different internal organ systems, such as the Spleen/Pancreas, Liver, and Kidneys.

A well-regulated menstrual cycle indicates that these organ groups are in harmonious balance. Irregular or otherwise problematic cycles mean a higher chance of infertility and/or complications during pregnancy.

Therefore, health care for expectant mothers usually starts a few months before pregnancy. First, herbal remedies are applied that help to cleanse the reproductive system. Then other herbal recipes are used to regulate the menstrual cycle, improve egg quality, promote ovulation and fertile cervical mucus, thicken the endometrial lining, and prevent miscarriage.

During the first three months of pregnancy, the mother’s body has to adjust to the monumental task of hosting a “foreign” body within her own. In this first trimester, a mother’s “defense” mechanisms might be triggered, causing symptoms such as dizziness, morning sickness, tiredness, and headaches. During this period, acupuncture is the treatment of choice.

However, for severe cases of morning sickness or signs of miscarriage (such as low abdominal cramping or blood spotting), herbal remedies might be administered to relieve the symptoms.

After the first trimester, the mother’s condition usually becomes more stable and the risk of miscarriage decreases. In this second trimester, the fetus develops its characteristic shape, facial details, extremities, and internal organs.

Although a balanced diet and proper physical exercise are important throughout the pregnancy, they are especially important in the second trimester. During this time, the fetus is growing and developing at a rapid pace. Food rich with proteins and iron, such as lean red meat and beans, should be eaten to prevent anemia and ensure adequate oxygen for the baby. In addition, vitamin D, zinc, calcium, and folic acid, abundant in dark green leafy vegetables, help to prevent birth defects.

The mother’s emotional state of mind has an enormous influence on the character and psychological health of the human-in-progress she carries inside. Therefore, emotional stress, anger, and conflicts should be avoided, and relaxing sessions with classical music and meditation should be enjoyed in large measure. Such calming therapies are an early investment in the physical and mental fitness of our next generation.

Written by

MASTER SUBUL SUNIM Director of Anguk Zen Center and Dongguk University’s International Seon Center Translated by Boo Ahm (Song Soo-kyong)

DR. RAIMUND ROYER (raimundroyer@jaseng.co.kr) is Korea’s only “Western” Oriental medical doctor and the medical director of the Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine’s International Clinic (www.jaseng.net). [ Map 9 C1]

STARBUCKS EXTENDS HELPING HANDS OVER SEOLLAL - STRENGTHENS STRATEGIC TIES WITH LOCAL COMMUNITIES IN 16 CITIES - SHARES THE NEW YEAR'S SPIRIT THROUGH DONATIONS, CULTURAL EVENTS

S

tarbucks Coffee Korea actively reached out to the needy in its wide-spanning social service program Baristas’ Hope during the extended holiday period for Seollal, or Lunar New Year, last month.

In the spirit of sharing the traditional holiday’s communal festive

instrumental and meaningful in providing a platform for our employees to contribute toward the well-being of society during the holiday period,” Said Lee Suk-koo, CEO of Starbucks C o f f e e K o r e a . " We w i l l c o n t i n u e t o p u r s u e

mood with the needy, Starbucks delegates paid a visit to 16 local communities throughout the nation that provide shelter to family-less senior citizens, orphans, and other underprivileged members of society.

The CSR (corporate social responsibility) program took place for 10 days from Feb 7.

In this social engagement program, like-minded Starbucks employees delivered a range of gift items, including rice packs, daily necessities, winter clothes and equipment, and essential stationery items.

During their visit to these institutions, the participating coffee specialists from Starbucks had an opportunity to share their hearts through coffee by holding an on-site coffee-making lesson for some members interested in the profession. They also offered gifts of premium coffee beans from Starbucks for consumption and inspiration.

In addition to such in-kind donations, a group of Starbucks volunteers became friends with multicultural children and offered assistance to the Green Umbrella Dream, which is made up of 110 children from poor families from the Mokpo and Sinan County region in Jeollanam-do.

“A s w e p l a c e t h e h i g h e s t m a n a g e m e n t v a l u e i n f u l f i l l i n g o u r corporate social responsibility, the Baristas' Hope program was

sustainable growth by becoming a responsible member of society and a reliable friend for our neighbors to depend upon.”

In 2012 alone, members of Starbucks Coffee Korea maintained sisterhood ties with 100plus local communities and charity groups and committed a total of 24,182 hours of volunteer work in some 50 cities where it is currently represented. The scope of its social service and beneficiary institutions is to be expanded this year as well.

In recognition of such social service merit, the Korean operation of the world's largest coffee chain was awarded citations and honors from some 30 public and private institutions l a s t y e a r, i n c l u d i n g t h e S e o u l M e t r o p o l i t a n Government, the Ministry of Employment and Labor, and the Korea Employment Agency for the Disabled.

korean

seon buddhism Experience it at

Dongguk University International Seon Center

Saturday English Buddhist Talks Meditation Teaching Included March Schedule - March 9, Ven. Bullim (Korean nun) Overview of the Korean Temple - March 16, Ven. Chonggo (American monk) Spiritual Practice and Daily Life - March 23. Ven. Asin pandicca (Myanmar monk)

Ganhwa Seon Meditation Meeting Those who are interested in learning Ganhwa Seon meditation can receive special instruction on every Saturday 4pm~6pm.

Those who want to participate in 7 days Intensive Ganhwaseon Retreat are welcome to contact the administration office.

Contact point (02)2260-3891~2, 010-2576-0315 / ysoo@dgu.edu International Seon Center, Dongguk University

Closed on public holidays

Dongguk University International Seon Center Sofitel Ambassador Hotel

Exit 6 Dongguk Univ. Station

Inner gate

Jangchungdan Park Front gate (vehicle entrance)

Jangchung Gymnasium Hotel Shilla

Come out of Exit 6 of Dongguk University Station (Line 3) and head 50m toward the campus. The International Seon Center is on the third floor of the round theater on the left.

Tel. 02-2260-3891~2 http://seoncenter.dongguk.edu/