SEOUL (April 2013) by Seoul Selection

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APRIL 2013

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ISSUE NO. 117

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Korea’s Premier K-12 International School

Seoul International School A Tradition of Excellence Since 1973

“We look for students and families who share the values of our community; diversity, integrity, respect, communication, and service. Regardless of race or creed, Seoul International School is interested in students who are eager to develop within an environment of excellence with a global perspective in education.”

Headmaster, Dr. Kim Hyung-Shik

¥ Graduates attend the most prestigious universities in the United States ¥ Teachers have an average of 12 years of teaching experience ¥ Over 2/3 of our teachers hold master’s degrees or doctorate degrees ¥ Outstanding extra-curricular athletics and performing arts programs ¥ 20 College Board approved Advanced Placement courses ¥ Fully WASC accredited since inception

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For information regarding admissions, please email us at: sisadmissions@siskorea.org or visit our website at: www.siskorea.org/sm Headmaster, Dr. Kim Hyung-Shik Director of Schools, Mr. Peter Corcoran Director of Admissions, Mrs. Irene De Shazo

We develop curious minds, creative spirits and compassionate hearts

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Contents

International School

NO. 117

10 Exploring Seoul

O U T D O O R

S E O U L

V A L L E Y S

G O E S A N

G A L A X Y

O F

U P S C A L E

Seoul Outdoors

B U Y I N G

E X P R E S S D I N I N G

M A D E - I N - K O R E A

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

APRIL 2013

T R AV E L

CULTURE

MAPS

ISSUE NO. 117

14 Seoul Travel Bits

of Choice

16 travel

Goesan 18 Korea Travel Bits 20

History Walks

A Walk through Yeouido in the Spring 21

Seoul Sub→urban

Express Bus Terminal Station 22

Dining & nightlife

Skinny Koreans

About the Cover Ennik Douma challenges the rock faces of Mt. Ansan.

Shopping

T R A V E L

C U L T U R E

Your Wish List in Seoul 28

M A P S

Interview

Galaxy Express

No-haggle pricing 광고가는 정찰제입니다

Seoul of Zen & Oriental Medicine

To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

Healing Your Soul and Body

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Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more

Useful coupons 34

Expat Community Page Maps & guides

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Seoul Selection

Photographed by Matt Douma Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designers Min So-young, Lee Bok-hyun, Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor Daisy Larios Contributors Monica Suk Daniel Gray Meagan Mastriani Robert J. Fouser Peter Jensen-Choi Ohudy Luna

KIS CURRENT STUDENTS’ ACADEMIC ACHIEVEMENTS • 2012-13 SAT average score 2,046 (US average 1,500) • 100% College acceptance rate, 94% of students attend schools in the US including Harvard, Columbia, Cornell, Princeton, and Georgetown. • 6% of students attend schools outside of the US including McGill, Waseda, KAIST, and Yonsei. • AP (Advanced Placement) student pass rate – KIS (95.3%), US nationwide pass rate (58%) • Pangyo Campus(PK-G12) 82.31.789.0505 | 373-6 Baekhyeon-dong, Bundang-gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do, Korea 463-420 • Seoul Campus(PK-G6) 82.2.561.0509 | 155-1 Gaepo-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, Korea 135-240 • Jeju Campus(G1-G9) 82.64.741.0509 | 11 San, Gueok-ri, Daejung-eup, Seoguipo-si, Jeju-do, Korea 699-931

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ISSN: 1599-9963

April 2013

Talk of the town

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Ooma Bapseong & Lamb Land

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise —without the written consent of the publishers. SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (book@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space. Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul. For details, see http://magazine.seoulselection.com.

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@seoulselection T R A V E L

C U L T U R E

M A P S

스와지캔들은 세계공정무역기구(WFTO)에 소속되어 있으며 판매 수익금의 일부는 스와질랜드 식수대 사업에 기부 됩니다 동곡상사(주) 스와지캔들은 한국, 일본, 중국(홍콩), 인도네시아, 말레이시아 독점 총판 업체입니다

SUGGESTED SEOUL ITINERARIES

APRIL AT A GLANCE

DAY 1

2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] . Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ]. Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest. Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ]. Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Go Outdoors

Celebrate the spring by getting outside. Seoul has plenty of places to do it. >p10–13

WHERE’S

Where to pick up SEOUL for FREE

Where to purchase SEOUL

1. Branches of SEOUL magazine advertisers: Jaseng hospital of Korean Eastern Medicine, Nanta Theater, Korea International School, Shinhan Bank, W Hotel, SOMERSET PALACE, IP&I, Astoria Hotel, Baerlin, Dongguk University International Seon Center, New York Wholistic Care, UBA Breast Clinic, Hair & Joy Hair Salon, Zen Hair Salon, Tartine, Between, Suyedang, Etonne, Concierge, Korea House, Dragon Hill Spa, On the Border, Avenue JUNO

1. Seoul Selection’s off- and on-line bookshops (www.seoulselection.com) 2. Major bookstores such as Kyobo Book Centre, YP Books and Bandi & Luni’s Bookstore 3. The following US military bases: Yongsan, Osan, Camp Humphreys and Camp Casey

2. Tourist Information Centers in Seoul 3. Hotels & serviced residences: Chosun hotel, THE SHILLA SEOUL, JW Marriott Hotel Seoul, Seokyo Hotel, Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts, Park Hyatt, Imperial Palace Hotel, Banyan Tree, Ritzcarlton Seoul, Lotte City Hotel, Grand Intercontinental Hotel Seoul, Gogung Hotel, Best Western Primier Hotel Kukdo, Lexington Hotel, Hotel Riviera, Grand Ambassador Seoul, Ibis Seoul Ambassador hotel, Incheon Airport Hotel, Koreana Hotel, Hotel Sunbee, Prima Hotel, Hotel Sevilla Incheon Airport, Hillside, Marriott Residence, Vabien Seoul, Vabien Suite, Fraser Place Central Seoul, Fraser Suites, Co-op Residence, Seoul Residence, Oak Wood Premier Coex Center, Stanford Hotel, Koryo Hotel, Best Western Gangnam Hotel, Ellui Hotel, Travellers A Hostel, Fox Hotel 4. Major cafés: All Starbucks and Café Nescafé branches in Korea and major branches of Angel-in-us have copies you can read for free.

DAY 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ]. Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1].

Get Lost in Goesan

Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Goesan’s deep mountain valleys and old walking roads make the perfect weekend getaway. >p16–17 DAY 1

Buy Something Korean

3 days / 2 nights

No two students are alike. And no other school cultivates the development of the whole child in quite the same way Dwight School Seoul does.

Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2].

Korea has items and brands you won't find anywhere else. >p26

Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong. Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Our world-class faculty maps the learning experience to fit the individual strengths and passions of each student, making the possibilities for growth endless.

Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Take in the Cherry Blossoms in Yeouido Enjoy the romance of Seoul’s premier spring festival. >p20

Party like there's no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdam-dong [ Map 9 C1].

DAY 2

We also provide students with rigorous academic preparation through the International Baccalaureate curriculum — one of the most challenging pre-university courses of study in the world.

Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park. Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch. Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ] , including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2]. Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats. Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].

DAY 3

What will your child’s “spark of genius” be?

Take a Slow Walk on Cheongsando

Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

The scenic island of Cheongsando is delightful in April. >p19

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3] . Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3] .

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Discover Galaxy Express

See Psy! Global music star Psy launches his latest single with a concert in Seoul. >p31

Dwight School Seoul ignites the “spark of genius” in every child!

Korean rock band shows you a different side to K-pop. >p29

*financial assistance available

Exploring Seoul

Namhansanseong Fortress

Rock climbing on Insubong © Sanirang Alpine Networks

Rock Climbing Written by Peter Jensen-Choi

Insubong Peak in northern Seoul’s Bukhansan National Park is our choice for natural traditional (trad) climbing for its stunning views, numerous multi-pitch trad routes, and easy park access. Insubong is one of the main climbing meccas for Seoul’s traditional climbers and boasts well over one hundred routes ranging in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.13. Insubong is truly the climber’s climbing crag, with bouldering, sport, and trad climbing available with crack, slab, face, chimney, and ridge style climbs. Insubong is not for the faint of heart; it should be climbed with a professional guide or someone with sufficient trad climbing experience.

Take Bus 120 to its final stop and then take a cab or shuttle bus to the Doseonsa Temple parking lot. From there, begin hiking the main trail for 30 minutes to Insu Campground, then cut across the campground and head directly up the less obvious trails for another fifteen minutes. You cannot miss the headwall of Insubong’s main Big Slab.

Peter Jensen-Choi is the founder of Sanirang Alpine Networks (sanirang.net), a privately owned climbing business designed to expand the accessibility of climbing in Korea’s finer alpine environments to foreign and Korean enthusiasts alike.

SEOUL OUTDOORS

IT’S TIME TO GET OUTSIDE AND DO SOMETHING

ith April here, spring truly begins in earnest, making it the perfect time to take advantage of Seoul’s countless opportunities for outdoor sports and leisure. Whether its bagging the rocky peaks surrounding the city, biking pleasant riversides, paragliding above the city, or simply strolling amidst historic alleyways, you’ll find something that matches your inclinations. SEOUL has asked several residents to recommend their favorite places to enjoy the great outdoors.

Namhansanseong Fortress

Running Written by Kevin Dowling

Spring is right around the corner and there is no better time to hit the trails of Namhansanseong! A favorite for this writer, Namhansanseong has it all: smooth runnable trails, beautiful scenery, and a great choice of eateries in traditional Korean hanok-style restaurants. The fortress wall that runs along the mountain ridge offers great photo opportunities and views of Seoul. The best part is that this heritage site is easy to access by subway. Follow the Wirye Dullegil signs and enjoy a trail run through the rolling hills of Korea’s countryside. You will feel miles away from the hustle and bustle of Seoul city yet be only a short train ride away.

Sanseong Station 산성역 (Line 8), Exit 3. Take city bus 9 to the Namhansanseong rotary.

Kevin Dowling has run ultramarathons in Vermont, Hawaii, Hong Kong, and Jejudo Island. When he is not running in the mountains of Korea he is studying for an MBA at Sejong University and working full-time at AGS Four Winds International Movers.

Alleyway in Seochon

Walking Written by Robert Fouser

Without question, my favorite walk in Seoul is weaving through the alleys of Tongui-dong, the micro-neighborhood that sits at the entrance to Seochon. The easiest way to start is from the Daelim Art Museum. Take the alley behind the museum and walk past the site of the famous white pine. Turn right and then turn left again at Gallery Artside and enter the narrow alley on the left. The long narrow alley lined with hanok (traditional Korean-style houses), each with its own personality, is the most exotic alley in Seoul.

[ Map 1 B2]

Prof. Robert Fouser is an associate professor of Korean Language Education at Seoul National University and writes SEOUL ’s Historic Walks column.

Exploring Seoul

13 Biking Written by Daisy Larios

Nothing says spring like a leisurely riverside bike ride! Luckily, Seoul Metropolitan Government offers bike rentals starting at KRW 1,000 throughout the city, as do many of the city’s individual districts. There’s one in the parking lot near Exit 1 of World Cup Stadium Station (Line 6); you can pay with a T-Money card but you’ll need your passport number for the computerized rental system. Look for the path that heads down to Bulgwangcheon Stream and head due north along the stream until Eungam Station (Line 6), or go down to the Hangang River and to the right, where a pleasant ride through its adjacent parks awaits you. Drop by the Nanji Ecological Wetlands for a dose of springtime renewal. A California native, Daisy Larios is a trained librarian who enjoys eating, reading, writing, and photographing her way around the world. She currently edits and writes for Seoul Selection.

Biking along the Hangang River

Paragliding Written by Ohudy Luna

Not many people partake in paragliding, but if you’re in Seoul and are curious, then you’re in luck. Not too far from Guri Station (a 10-minute walk from Exit 2) are a number of paragliding schools where you have the option of either doing a tandem flight (KRW 120,000), receiving lessons to become a certified pilot (KRW 400,000 for P1), or, if you’re already licensed, just paying for the transportation up the hill (KRW 40,000 for P1–P3, KRW 20,000 for P4 and above). Although there are a number of schools, the easiest one for foreigners to get in contact with is Daehan Paragliding School because of the friendly Englishman named Andrew who works for them. You do ground training and theory with him by the Hangang River near Banpo Bridge or Guri Station, and once you’re ready to fly, you can go to Guri Station (Jungang Line) to start flying. Daehan Paragliding (Andrew): T. 010-2189-9688 Daehan Paragliding (Seong Hyu): T. 010-5329-6330

Originally born in Los Angeles, Ohudy is a 26-year-old guy constantly cycling everywhere, in any weather, looking for new experiences with others.

Hiking Written by Robert Koehler

One of the best things about Seoul is that it’s surrounded by mountains—you can find dramatic alpine scenery even in the heart of Seoul. The Baegundae Trail of Bukhansan National Park is one of my favorites. It’s not an especially difficult hike—it takes just two hours to walk from the parking lot of Doseonsa Temple to Baegundae Peak—but the views of the park’s countless peaks from the upper reaches of the trail are inspiring. Just below the peak is Baegunsanjang, an historic mountain shelter/lodge that offers simple meals and, when the weather is warm enough, accommodations. It’s worth spending the night here in spring and autumn (especially May and October)—you can then reach the peak just before sunrise and take in the “sea of clouds” that gather below the granite peak of Insubong. Take bus No. 120 from Suyu Station 수유역 (Line 4), Exit 3 to the last stop. From there, take a shuttle bus or taxi to the parking lot of Doseonsa Temple. The trail begins from there.

Robert Koehler is the editor in chief of SEOUL .

Bukhansan National Park

Seoul travel bits Hangang River Cruise

15 Mecenatpolis

한강유람선

메세나폴리스

Located at Hapjeong Station, Mecenatpolis is the latest addition to Seoul’s mixeduse commercial district that embraces shopping, entertainment, and residential compounds. A diverse range of retail, dining, and vibrant communal spaces merge to create a new urban haven under a single roof, providing a new social destination for city slickers. Lotte Cinema is conveniently located within the compound.

Taking a cruise is a great way to enjoy the fresh air and get away from it all. Enjoy spectacular nighttime views of the Hangang River on themed cruises with live magic and delicious food. There are also seasonal events, including a flower cruise in spring and a migratory bird cruise in autumn. Several boats ply the waters of the Hangang River, making one-way or round-trip tours. There are three major places to get on or off the ferries: the Yeouido, Jamsil, and Ttukseom docks. Tickets cost KRW 13,000.

Along with fast food chains and coffeehouses, a wide range of upscale and modest restaurants await patrons, offering unique dining experience in their terraced balconies and open-air spaces.

Buffet programs cost KRW 65,000 for dinner and KRW 35,900 for lunch.

Its first floor features apparel brands like Uniqlo, Muji, 8 Seconds and TopTen10.

Riverside landmarks include Jeoldusan Martyrs’ Shrine, the 63 City Building, N Seoul Tower, Seoul Forest, Seonyudo Island Park, and the 1988 Olympic Stadium.

Online retail giant Interpark operates two cultural halls under its corporate name on the second floor of the mammoth commercial establishment. It's worth check out its theatrical program.

T. 02-3271-6900, www.elandcruise.com

mecenatpolismall.co.kr

Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Jamsilnaru Station 잠실나루역 (Line 2), and Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7)

Hapjeong Station 합정역 (Line 2, 6), Exit 10

Seoul Forest

Flea Markets in Seoul

서울숲

Seoul Forest is a massive park dotted with over 400,000 trees and 100 different animals. The public establishment is divided into five areas: Cultural Art Park, Ecological Forest, Nature Learning Field, Wetlands Ecological Field, and Han River Waterside Park. A range of environmental and ecological programs for kids, teens, and adults will entice visitors of all ages. Rent a bicycle or rollerblades from the rental stall located by Gate 1. It is open year-round, and admission is free.

On weekends, several flea markets are open to the public in Seoul, where vendors display their used or handmade goods for sale. The Hongdae Free Market opens at 1pm every Saturday from March to November. Instead of used goods, you will find a variety of items handcrafted by college-age artists. Every Sunday, Filipinos gather in a flea market near Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 1 to meet and chat with their fellow citizens and friends. The market sells groceries and food as well as magazines and CDs from the Philippines. The Seocho Saturday Flea Market is located in the Bangbae-dong area in front of Sadang Station. On Sundays, the Korea Exchange Bank plaza in Myeong-dong turns into a flea market called Myeongrang Market. Lastly, the Bling & Platoon Night Flea Market takes place on the first Saturday of the month at the multiuse cultural space Platoon Kunsthalle (T. 02-3447-1191, www.kunsthalle.com) in Nonhyeon-dong.

A small Chinatown prospers in the park’s vicinity near Konkuk University Station. The best-known Chinese specialties here include grilled lamb and hot pot dishes. The nearby Ttukseom Resort is the site of one of the nation’s largest weekend flea markets, held from March through October. Springtime visitors will be delighted with the park’s enhanced customer program charged with organizing rock concerts, painting exhibitions, and sporting activities. T. 02-460-2905, parks.seoul.go.kr/seoulforest Ttukseom Station 뚝섬역 (Line 2), Exit 8 or Seoul Forest Station 서울숲역 (Bundang Line), Exit 3

Dosan Park

도산공원

Dosan Park’s serenity stands in stark contrast with the noise of the shiny sports cars whizzing by and the busy luxury boutiques in the affluent Sinsa-dong area. A promenade through the excellent park reminds one of a Western garden. At the east end of the park stands a bronze statue of independence activist Ahn Chang-ho. Dosan was Ahn’s pen name.

[ Map 9 C1]

The annual Yeouido Spring Flower Festival is set to return Apr 12–18 when 1,700 cherry trees erupt into magnificent clouds of pink. The spring’s spectacular show gets underway along the 1.7-kilometer-long street behind the National Assembly building. At night, the cherry blossoms are lit up with various colored lights. A wide range of street performances such as mime and modern dance, as well as art exhibitions, also take place.

The festival site will be flooded not only with visitors but street peddlers as well. There are also acrobats, inline skaters, traditional Korean percussion music, and fireworks along Hangang River to round off the event.

The park’s neighborhood is home to numerous outlets of leading boutique brands and high-end luxury goods such as Ann Demeulemeester, Blush, Stone Island, and C.P. Company.

T. 02-543-2558

여의도벚꽃축제

Street vendors will be on hand selling snack foods and beverages, and Noryangjin Fish Market is just around the corner.

My Ssong (T. 02-518-0105) is famous for its delightful selection of brunch items as well as its sandwiches, fish and chips, burgers, and other Western delicacies.

The Horim Art Center houses a high-profile collection of Korean traditional pottery. Promenade Hermes, located in the Maison Hermes boutique, is a museum that contains a retrospective collection from Hermes’ rich history.

Yeouido Spring Flower Festival

www.ydp.go.kr National Assembly Station 국회의사당역 (Line 9), Exit 1

Art Nine

1) Hongdae Free Market: Hongdae Playground [ Map 7 D2] 2) Filipino Market: in front of Hyehwa Catholic Church 3) Seocho Saturday Flea Market: Bangbae-dong area in front of Sadang Station 사당역 (Line 2, 4) 4) Myeongrang Market: KEB plaza [ Map 4 B1] 5) Platoon Kunsthalle [ Map 9 C1]

아트나인

Art Nine, a new cinema house devoted to independent art movies, has opened its doors in Sadang-dong, in southern Seoul near Isu Station. Located on the 12th floor of the Golden Cinema Tower, the theater has two screening halls with a total capacity of 150 seats. Amenities include a spacious yet cozy café area, outdoor terrace facilities, and outdoor screening spaces. Lower levels of the building are occupied by the Megabox multiplex chain.

Seoul Museum

서울미술관

Seoul Museum is noted for its extraordinary collection of Korean modern art, including Bull, an oil painting masterpiece created by Lee Jung-seob. In addition, the museum compound houses Seokpajeong, a 19th-century hanok (traditional Korean house). Seokpajeong was a summer villa of the powerful politician Heungseon Daewongun, father of King Gojong of the late Joseon Dynasty.

In-house café Eat Nine offers a buffet-style brunch for KRW 13,900; standard Western meals are also on offer.

Across the street from the museum is a famous café district where a group of small yet pretty teahouses sit along the hiking trails leading to Mt. Inwangsan.

Souvenir items like cinema-themed mugs and accessories are available at its convenience store.

Its in-house souvenir shop sells a wide range of memorabilia items based on its art collection.

The list of movies currently playing include Japanese drama Our Homeland and Korean short movie Jury, which realistically portrays the backroom conflict among five jurors of an international film competition. T. 070-7017-3328, www.artnine.co.kr Isu Station 이수역 (Lines 4, 7), Exit 7

Seokpajeong is famous for its beautiful landscape, which makes good use of the mountain's bizarre rock formations, streams, and handsome pine trees. T. 02-395-0100, www.seoulmuseum.org From the Gyeongbokgung area in central Seoul, take bus No. 1020, 1711, 7016, 7018, 7022, or 7212 to the Jahamun Tunnel stop.

travel

17 Old Sanmagi Road © Lee Bok-seok

natural environment, the path is largely covered by an elevated wooden deck. There are even wood plank suspension bridges to take walkers through some of the wooded sections. Scenic lookouts have been built at strategic spots along the trail, including one spot overlooking an oxbow village shaped like the Korean Peninsula (requires an off-path hike up a mountain). If you’d like to take in Lake Goesan’s scenery from below, cruise boats depart from several docks along the lake. The longest cruises take about an hour, with one-way and round-trip tickets available.

Off the beaten track: Nunbisan Farm About a 10 minute drive from downtown Goesan is Nunbisan Farm, an environmentally friendly chicken ranch where eggs are produced in a humane manner. Unlike typical eggs, most of this farm’s eggs are fertilized—mating chickens are happy chickens. The farm was founded in 1968 by the Maryknoll Fathers, a US-based Catholic missionary society, to help improve life in Korea’s rural communities. It is now a member of Hansalim, a Korean consumer cooperative dedicated to incorporating ecological principles into all facets of daily life. In particular, they work to link organic farmers in rural districts with consumers in urban areas through a network of grocery stores. Nunbisan’s eggs—and its egg-based snacks—can be purchased at Hansalim grocery stores throughout Korea. Nunbisan Farm takes volunteers, too—it runs programs where participants can learn about ecological farming as they help out on the farm. Call 043-8328063 for more information.

GOESAN

Mat Sikdang (T. 043-833-1580) is small (just five tables) and would generously be described as rustic. It’s also so good it appeared in cartoonist Huh Young-man’s famous comic strip Sikgaek. They specialize in two dishes. The first is olgaengiguk, a spicy soup of fermented soybean broth, leeks, and marsh snails. It’s a regional specialty and particularly good for relieving a nasty hangover. The other is doenjang jjigae, a stew made from soybean paste that has been fermented for several years. Goesan is also famous for its red peppers—the Goesan Red Pepper Festival (in August) is a good time to taste them.

괴산

HIDDEN VALLEYS ARE TREASURE TROVES OF NATURAL SPLENDOR

Goesan has its fair share of small motels, inns, and pensions. If you’re looking for something more upscale, Hotel West of Canaan (T. 043-833-8814) has nice, clean rooms in lovely mountain surroundings beginning at KRW 149,000 a night. For something more traditional, the Cheongcheon-ri Goga (T. 043-832-4062) is a late 19th century home that has been converted into a guesthouse. Rates are very reasonable, beginning at KRW 25,000 a night during the high season (May 1–Oct 1), but with just seven rooms available, you should reserve a space early. Buses to Goesan depart from Seoul’s Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (travel time: 2 hours).

Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

ant to escape civilization for a day? Goesan’s your place. Tucked away in the mountains of central Korea, Goesan is a tapestry of deep valleys hidden amidst forested mountainsides. Korean landscape painters and philosophical scholars have been coming here in search for inspiration for centuries. Nowadays, it is largely tourists who descend upon Goesan’s valleys to recharge in the natural splendor of the great outdoors.

Deep valleys Korea has roughly 40 long, deep valleys, or gugok (literally, “nine-bend valley”). Of these, seven are located in Goesan alone. Wind and water have carved great gorges from the weathered slopes of the Sobaeksan Mountains; in each gorge can be found individual worlds of inspiring scenic beauty. During the Joseon Dynasty, Confucian scholars and officials frequently visited the valleys, extolling their beauty through poems and paintings. They left behind many wooden pavilions erected at especially scenic points, where they’d spend days soaking in inspiration from the surroundings. The most famous of Goesan’s valleys is the Seonyugugok, the centerpiece of Hwayang Provincial Park. Each of the 2 km-long valley’s nine bends were named by famed 16th century Confucian philosopher “Toegye” Yi Hwang, who toured the valley for nine months while on visit to a nearby clan. He etched the names in stone; some of the carvings can still be found.

The river gorge is lined by dramatic cliffs, fantastically shaped boulders, and verdant groves of pine. Some sections of the valley are said to possess a rugged, masculine beauty, while other sections possess a softer, more feminine beauty. In the upper part of the valley you’ll find the Hakcheonjeong Pavilion, built in 1909 by the Confucian scholar Yi Jae. Nearby Hwayanggugok is just as lovely, albeit a bit grander in scale. The 3 km valley has its share of scenic cliffs and rocks, although the visual highlight is Geumsaam Rock, which is topped by Amseojae Pavilion, built by 17th century scholar “U-am” Song Si-yeol, who lived near the valley as a hermit. His tomb and an old Confucian academy he founded can be found nearby, too. Overlooking the jade water from atop a slab of white granite and surrounded by deep green trees, the pavilion is straight out of an Eastern landscape painting. If those valleys aren’t enough, you can find lovely scenery at the Ssanggokgugok and Gareungugok valleys, too. For board game fans, Gareungugok has a baduk (also known as Go) board carved into one of its granite slabs.

Cliffs, Hwayanggugok

Old Sanmagi Road The old Sanmagi Road is a 4 km hiking trail that takes you along the the beautiful landscape of Lake Goesan, a scenic reservoir created after the 1957 construction of Goesan Dam, Korea’s first indigenously built hydroelectric dam. The trail follows the old walking paths that Koreans used to use to go from village to village in bygone days. To preserve the Amseojae Pavilion, Hwayanggugok

Old Sanmagi Road

Korea Travel Bits

MARCH GETAWAYS Jinhae Gunhangje Festival

Namwon Chunhyang Festival

진해군항제

When Jinhae turns into a virtual sea of pale-pink blossoms from some 340,000 cherry trees each spring, Jinhae Gunhangje Festival (also known as the Naval Port Festival) kicks in. This year, it will last 10 days beginning Apr 1, and over one million are expected to flock here from all over the country. The largest of its kind in Korea, the flower festival also commemorates Korea’s famous Admiral Yi Sun-sin, who saved the country from Japanese invaders. The cadets marching band from the Korea Naval Academy will join the festival to add more excitement to the floral spring festival. A full-size replica of Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s 16th-century turtle ships will be on view at the Naval Academy’s dock.

Namwon will hold the annual Chunhyang Festival Apr 26–30, which commemorates the love story of Chunhyang set against the city in the dynastic times. In the classic story, Chunhyang is a maiden who is forced to entertain a local magistrate while the young man she really loves, Lee Mong-ryong, is away on government affairs. When Mongryong returns as a high-ranking official, things are set straight and the maiden is set free, giving the tale a happy ending. A variety of events and performances will be on offer— traditional music contests, farmer’s percussion shows, a sijo (Korean traditional short lyric poem) contest, a traditional game experience zone, and swing riding. Namwon is a signature powerhouse of chueotang 추어탕 (loach soup), a highly recommended health food in Korea. Try a bowl of loach stew full of spices in Namwon and you may feel recharged enough to get going.

If you want a real meal after all those street snacks, try a bowl of bibimbap, featuring Jinhae’s famous saesongi 새송이 mushrooms. Courtesy of Suncheon Bay Garden Expo 2013

Courtesy of Jin Air

It’s the only time of the year when visitors can access the Korea Naval Academy and its naval museum. Also consider visiting nearby Yongchu Falls.

Suncheon Bay Garden Expo 2013 2013 순천만국제정원박람회

The festival site will be flooded with street vendors selling local specialties and provides a unique opportunity to eat street food and play carnival games.

Suncheon Bay Garden Expo 2013 will kick off Apr 20 for a 6-month run in the southern coastal city, highlighting an exemplary model for an ideal future city through green industry development, sustainable garden development, and electronic transportation. The exhibition is divided into three areas: the main exposition venue, the International Wetlands Center, and gardens with various themes. The 5.2-kilometer rapid transit system will connect the main expo venue alongside the waters down to Suncheon Bay, where visitors have breathtaking views of the ecological park surrounded by mudflats and thickly growing reeds. It is home to about 200 types of migrant birds and 120 types of salt plants.

Tourist motels and upscale resort hotels are on offer. But plan ahead to beat out the crowd. gunhang.changwon.go.kr From Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal, take an intercity bus to Jinhae. Travel time is 4 hours 20 minutes. Or, take a KTX train to Masan Station and continue to travel aboard local bus 162 or 760 to Jinhae terminal. Estimated travel time: 4 hours.

Like any other location in the Jeolla region, Suncheon boasts a rich and diverse culinary tradition based on its fertile lands and abundant marine products. You cannot afford to miss Suncheon’s specialty—yeomso tteokgalbi 염소떡갈비 (grilled marinated goat meat). Naganeupseong Folk Village is a must-see while in Suncheon. About 100 families still reside within the fortress walls, offering a glimpse of southern Korea’s bygone lifestyle. Go hiking on Jogyesan Mountain (884 m) and explore its two famous temples—Seonamsa and Songgwangsa. There are plenty of tourist motels and youth hostels throughout Suncheon. Jjimjilbang saunas provides a cheap overnight sleeping spot. T. 1577-2013, www.2013expo.or.kr Courtesy of Jinhae-gu Office

Jeolla KTX trains depart from Yongsan Station and take 3-plus hours to get there.

Lagung Hotel

Discounts from Jin Air

진에어 특별 이벤트

You now have a reason to keep your airline tickets after leaving the airplane: they can be used as discount coupons! Budget carrier Jin Air has launched a special promotion package in cooperation with its business partners. Regardless of their destinations, those who have flown Jin Air this year will be offered a 30-percent discount on up to two tickets for the Olympus Ensemble concert on Apr 18 in Seoul. The ensemble is a 7-piece group created by Olympus Corporation Korea in 2012. Also, Jin Air’s domestic patrons who travel to Jejudo Island will be offered a KRW 3,000 discount for each admission ticket to Jeju Folk Village. The Jejudo discount program will continue until Apr 30. At Jeju Folk Village, the unique lifestyle and traditional culture of the island province are showcased as they appeared during the 19th century. Over 8,000 pieces of folk articles are displayed here including household equipment, farming instruments, fishing tools, furniture, and earthenware. Traditional cultural performances such as folk songs, haenyeo (female diver) dances, and mask dances are held twice a day in its concert hall. Don’t forget to take advantage of Jin Air’s “Nabi Point” system. Use your saved up Nabi Points from both domestic and international flights to earn free one-way and roundtrip tickets to destinations anywhere in Korea.

Garden of Morning Calm

아침고요수목원

The Garden of Morning Calm, located in Gapyeong—some 50 kilometers northeast of Seoul—is huge, and one of the best botanical gardens in the greater Seoul area. Scenic walkways, beautifully manicured lawns, and flower beds connect the 20 garden themes. The garden houses about 5,000 kinds of plants, including 300 varieties native to Baekdusan Mountain in North Korea, known as the spiritual mountain of the Korean people. The botanical park can be a paradise for photographers, tourists, families, and couples. Admission is KRW 8,000.

The beauty contest will return with a number of local beauties and aspiring actresses, promising to feast and purify your eyes. In addition to the hotels, motels, and homestays available in the city, festivalgoers may want to stay near Jirisan, where a group of condos, resort hotels, and youth hostels can be found. T. 063-620-4861, www.chunhyang.org Catch a Namwon-bound KTX train at Yongsan Station or take an express bus from Central City Bus Terminal.

Coutesy of Namwon City Hall

Cheongsando Slow Walking Festival

라궁

A group of Korean restaurants are in service at Silla Millennium Park, while traditional taverns entice tourists with locally brewed varieties of rice wine and appetizers. If you want to join the annual Gyeongju Cherry Marathon scheduled for Apr 13, check out its website at www.cherrymarathon.com before it's too late. The theme park offers various interactive attractions and outdoor performances. Also, a dynamic performance on horseback is available at Gongbang Village. Hotel rates start at KRW 120,000-plus per person, which includes three meals, snacks, and theme park tickets. A range of hotels, condos, and other options are available throughout the city. T. 054-778-2100, millenniumpalace.fortour.kr Take a KTX train to Gyeongju and use local transportation to get to the hotel near the Bomun Tourist Complex.

In-house Korean restaurants offer organic food and vegetarian meals as well as meat specialties. A traditional tea house greets visitors, and a cafeteria is also available.

Courtesy of Nonsan Strawberry Festival

Nonsan Strawberry Festival

논산딸기축제

Home to some of Korea’s tastiest strawberries, Nonsan is holding a strawberry festival Apr 3–7 and will invite visitors to pick (and eat) as many strawberries as they can, not to mention purchase any number of strawberry treats to take home. Exhibitions, handson activities, and a visit to Nonsan’s specialty market are highly recommended. There are also plenty of original strawberry creations for visitors to sample, such as strawberry rice cakes and even strawberry hot sauce, as well as established treats like strawberry pancakes and strawberry jam. To participate in the strawberry picking program, try to buy a ticket on-site as early as possible, as participation is limited to approximately 1,000 people per day.

The riverside highway between Cheongpyeong Dam and Gapyeong provides fantastic scenery. Gapyeong boasts a large forest of pine trees and is noted for being the largest pine nut producer in the country.

To Korean men, Nonsan is quite well known, since the army boot camp for soldiers who are beginning their compulsory training is there. Step into a dilapidated local diner and enjoy a hearty meal, just like a new Korean recruit.

Gapyeong’s stellar attraction is Cheongpyeongho Lake, which is an ideal place to mingle with nature. Trekking, water skiing, rowing, and boat rides are some of the activities you can enjoy on the lake.

Festivalgoers can participate in various activities such as cake making, sampling, and teeter-totter jumping games.

청산도슬로우걷기축제

Cheongsando Slow Walking Festival 2013 will continue during the entire month of April on this island in Wando County, Jeollanam-do. The main program of the festival is to walk on the Cheongsando Slow Road, spanning over 42 kilometers on 11 trails. Cheongsando has a charming pastoral atmosphere; the barley fields are ringed by traditional stone walls, and visitors can stroll along muddled paths and gaze out over the spectacularly blue ocean. Visitors can also enjoy open-air concerts and sample “slow” food. Cheongsando is the ultimate escape from city life, allowing people to free their minds and enjoy life at a slower pace. Connected to the mainland by a bridge, Wando is scenic and has ever-changing views of the islands scattered offshore, including Cheongsando. The most famous dishes of this region contain freshly caught abalone, a local delicacy. Abalone can be eaten raw like sashimi or eaten with rice, vegetables, and other seafood, bibimbap style. Ferries to Jejudo Island leave from the main town, Wando-eup. Famous tourist attractions in Wando include filming sites of the TV drama Spring Waltz 봄의 왈츠 as well as Seopyeonje 서편제, Korea’s first movie to break the 1-million-viewers mark. Flashy new motels have sprouted recently in Wando-eup, while minbak homestays are available in other smaller islets. www.slowcitywando.com Take a KTX train or an express bus to Mokpo and transfer to a local bus bound for Wando. Total travel time exceeds 5 hours.

Local attractions include Gwanchoksa Temple, where Eunjin Mireuk, a large-standing Buddhist sculpture from the medieval Goryeo period, is treasured as a national heritage item.

In addition to the in-house Morning Calm Pension, there are several dozen pensions and log homes for hire scattered all throughout this area. Nearby forest parks offer campsites.

Abundant accommodation options are available throughout the city.

T. 1544-6703, www.morningcalm.co.kr From Sangbong Bus Terminal or Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, ride a Chuncheon-bound bus and get off at Cheongpyeong Bus Terminal before transferring to a local bus or taxi.

Namwon makes a great base camp for hikers planning to explore the northern side of the famous Jirisan Mountain.

You need to show your airline ticket when purchasing admission tickets. For details on the concert program, check out www.olympushall.co.kr or call 1544-1555.

The Lagung, meaning “Silla Palace,” is a traditional deluxe hotel located in the ancient Silla Kingdom capital of Gyeongju. The hotel establishment consists of 16 separate houses that are all connected by corridors. The plan for the Lagung was ascertained with historical evidence and consultation of more than 100 experts in ancient architecture. The hotel is part of a greater tourist theme park, Silla Millennium Park which offers a glimpse of Silla’s cultural heritage through restored Silla palaces, houses, and other lifestyle settings from the 8th century. Visitors have access to a large-scale outdoor studio where period TV dramas are filmed.

Courtesy of Garden of Morning Calm

남원춘향제

T. 041-733-0861, www.nsfestival.co.kr Courtesy of Lagung

From Central City Terminal, take an intercity bus to Nonsan; from Yongsan Station, take a train to Nonsan Station. Travel time is one and a half hours.

Courtesy of Cheongsando Slow Walking Festival

History Walks

Seoul sub →urban

EXPRESS BUS TERMINAL STATION 고속터미널역

Written by Charles Usher Photographed by Meagan Mastriani

Should I go or should I stay?

A WALK THROUGH YEOUIDO IN THE SPRING © James Kim

Seoul’s Manhattan is more than just cherry blossoms Written by Robert J. Fouser

pril brings spring flowers to Seoul, and one the best places to enjoy them is Hangang Park and Yeouido Park, both on Yeouido, the large island in the Hangang River. Built on the site of the old Seoul airfield in the 1970s, Yeouido was the first planned city south of the Hangang River in Seoul. Its success helped spur the development of Gangnam and other new cities throughout Korea. Yeouido sits at the center of the Korean establishment. The National Assembly, the Korea Exchange Center, and the headquarters of KBS, MBC, and a number of other important companies, including LG, are located here. The island also has several apartment complexes that are excellent examples of the “matchbox” design that was popular in the 1970s and 1980s. The best way to begin a tour of Yeouido is from Yeouido Station 여의도 역 (Line 5, 9). Leave from Exit 3 and walk straight toward Yeouido Park. From 1972 to 1999, the area was a large concrete plaza that was used mainly for political events. Large-scale political events fell out of favor after democratization in the 1980s, and the area was redeveloped into a green park in 1999. Walk through the park and enjoy the many flowering trees. From Yeouido Park, KBS makes for an interesting stop. The KBS On Exhibition Hall offers a short introduction to KBS and broadcasting (free, 9:30am–5:30pm every day, admission by 5pm) Next to KBS is the National Assembly Building. People interested in Korean politics can visit the National Assembly Visitor’s Center (free, 9am–6pm weekdays, 9am–5pm weekends, except for the second and fourth Sundays of the month; admission one hour before closing), which offers an interesting look at the function and history of the National Assembly. Leaving the National Assembly Visitor’s Center, turn left and walk past the front of the National Assembly Library until you come to Hangang Park. Developed in the 1980s as part of a chain of parks along the Hangang River, the park hosts the annual Yeouido Cherry Blossom Festival in the middle of April. The park spans the entire perimeter of the island and offers wonderful views of the Yeouido skyline as well as Mt. Namsan on the other side of the Hangang River. The park is particularly popular for nighttime cherry blossom viewing during the festival.

The long walk in Hangang Park leads to another Yeouido attraction: 63 City. Opened in 1985 as part of the preparations for the 1988 Olympics, the tall golden building was the tallest building in Asia at the time and remained the tallest building in Korea until 2003. The top floors offer sweeping views of Seoul from the observatory and restaurants. The lower floors have one of the largest aquariums in Asia, an IMAX theater, and a shopping mall. From 63 City, turn left and then right at the next main street. The walk passes a number of “matchbox” apartment complexes built in the 1970s that sit symmetrically amid mature trees. Turning left at the corner with the Korea Exchange Center and MBC leads back to Yeouido Station. Compared with the historic center of Seoul, Yeouido feels new and at times artificial. As a product of the period when Korea focused on creating a solid middle class, it offers more for children, making it a relaxing family destination, particularly during cherry blossom season.

The epidemic that afflicts so many whenever temperatures begin to rise—the unshakable compulsion to get out, go, do—has returned for its seasonal appearance. But do you scratch that itch out of town or right here in the city? For the indecisive and the procrastinating, you can postpone your decision until the last minute by heading to Express Bus Terminal Station. The biggest bus depot in the country and linking the capital to pretty much everywhere on the mainland, Express Bus Terminal 고속버스터미널 is actually split between two separate buildings. The original terminal is where the Gyeongbu and Yeongdong lines depart and has flower, clothing, and bedding shops on its upper floors. The newer terminal serves the Honam line and is attached to a Shinsegae Department Store and the Central City complex of stores, restaurants, a movie theater, and family facilities. If you decide you’d rather just relax in the city, there’s plenty in the neighborhood to do. A short walk north leads to a popular section of Hangang Park 한강공원. Here you’ll find the landmark Banpo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain 반포대교 달빛무지개분수, which puts on

a show of lights and dancing water shot out by the hundreds of nozzles along the bridge’s length every night, making it a lovely backdrop for an evening picnic or date. In the opposite direction is the National Library of Korea 국립중앙도서관 and its digital library, the Dibrary. This may not be what one thinks of when a spring break comes to mind, but as any librarian worth her salt surely told you, books are passports to other worlds. Browse the maps room, the old and rare collection, or watch a movie in the Dibrary’s multiplexes. Library usage requires registration with a Korean citizen or alien registration card, a simple process. West of the library is Seorae Village 서래마을, also commonly known as the French Village thanks to the French influence that comes with the presence of the Lycée Français de Séoul. If you’re expecting a little slice of Paris when you show up, you might come away disappointed, but to be sure, the area has a vibe unto itself, with people coming here to indulge in the preponderance of cafés, wine bars, and international restaurants. Shoppers wander in and out of Seorae’s boutiques, people look over the offerings at bakeries, and nobody seems in any particular rush to get anywhere. It may not be a ticket to de Gaulle, but it’ll do.

Express Bus Terminal

9 Line

1 8

The Central City complex (Honam line) 5

Line 7

Line 3 Station #339 Line 7 Station #734 Line 9 Station #923

Seorae Village

The National Library of Korea

Express Bus Terminal 고속버스터미널 Old Terminal (Gyeongbu and Yeongdong Lines 경부선/영동선) Exit 1 New Terminal (Honam Line 호남선) Exit 8 Hangang Park 한강공원 and Banpo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain 반포대교 달빛무지개분수 Exit 8-1 Right on Banpo-ro 반포로 National Library of Korea 국립중앙도서관 and National Digital Library of Korea (Dibrary) Exit 5 South on Banpo-ro 반포로 T. 02-590-4142 National Library of Korea: www.nl.go.kr National Digital Library of Korea: www.dibrary.net Hours | Digital Library: Tuesday–Sunday 9am–10pm, Closed Mondays Seorae Village 서래마을 Exit 5 West on Sapyeongdaero 사평대로, Left on Seorae-ro 서래로

Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5), Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Line 5, 9), National Assembly Station 국회의사당역 (Line 9), or Saetgang Station 샛강역 (Line 9)

Dining & nightlife

Ooma Bapseong & Lamb Land

Daily Delights

Here are my suggestions for a great food day in Seoul.

Day 1

Written and photographed by Daniel Gray

Ooma Bapseong

엄마밥상

Gourmet 494

is a gourmet cafeteria in the basement of the Galleria Department Store, which you can easily get to via the new Apgujeong Rodeo Station 압구정로데오역 (Bundang Line). It’s got an array of shopping and restaurants. You can spend the day shopping and head back to this center for every meal.

Dosan Park Area

You won’t find many Korean restaurants on Rodeo Drive in Apgujeong. The ritzy street that epitomizes Gangnam has never been very kind to restaurants. Korean food has high labor and food costs,

Breakfast

and most Koreans are very particular about their Korean food. If the food is not better than their own mothers and it costs as much

Get your bread and coffee from a variety of cafés and bakeries. At Eric Kayser you can get freshbaked breads and pastries. Hotel Douce offers colorful eclairs and macaroons and Cafe Mamas offers delicious fruit drinks and sandwiches.

or more than a Western meal, then most don’t feel the need to eat it. The mother/chef at Ooma Bapseong on Rodeo Drive has swayed all naysayers and serves up some of the best Korean food in all of Korea. It is the attention to detail that makes this restaurant exceptional. Crispy green onion pancakes, the pork in bossam, and even the

Lunch

Dinner

For lunch, I would recommend the cheddar burger from Brooklyn: The Burger Joint with the kimchi fries from Vatos. If you are looking for something more Korean, the homemade tofu from Kamchon Sundubu is also very good. If you are looking for something light, I would recommend the steamed dumplings from Cheonjin Poja.

Dessert

Dinner should be a bit more substantial, so I would recommend the steaks at Bistecca, which are grilled on-site; you can also get it with some grilled giant shrimp. If you want Italian, there are also the amazing pizzas from Pizzeria D’Buzza. For those looking for great sushi, then the renowned Masumoto Mizuho has his restaurant, Mizusho by Sushi Matsumoto.

They do dessert justice here. You can get a strawberry rhubarb pie from Tartine or a gastronomic ice cream from Fell + Cole. With such fun and intriguing names as Rum Drunken Raisins, Irish Guilt, and Orange Blossom Cardamom, choosing an ice cream at Fell + Cole will be a tough decision. Gourmet 494 고메이494 Apgujeong Galleria Department Store B1 T. 02-410-7114, www.gourmet494.com Open from 11am–9pm [ Map 9 C1]

japchae come out hot. The various vegetable banchan—the fernbrake

Photographs provided by Daniel Gray

salad, cabbage kimchi, and pickled sesame leaves—have crunch and are delicately plated. The true evidence of her care is in the soybean paste soup. It is flavorful and hearty with the light wafting of bean paste. You can get the normal bapseong (meal with rice) for KRW 12,000 or upgrade to get stir-fried pork or squid for KRW 17,000. You can get their specialty—marinated and then pan-seared beef—for KRW 30,000. It’s worth every penny.

Ooma Bapseong 엄마밥상 ★★★☆

Gourmet 494

T. 02-542-0628 Hours: 11am–10pm Price: KRW 12,000–30,000 per person [ Map 9 C1]

Day 2

Breakfast Homemade Croissants and Bread from Le Alaska

Lamb Land

램랜드

This is one of the finest bakeries in Seoul, and it stays true to Parisian roots. The croissants are light, buttery, and flaky and have all the right points. I recommend getting a nice selection of breads and rolls with some jam and butter; indulge over a cup of coffee.

Mapo Restaurant Street

When a restaurant advertises boyang (restorative stamina) food, it attracts a certain type of crowd: usually loud, old-school gentlemen that eat the food more for its “restorative”

One Chu

Lunch

Koreans lovingly refer to as ajeossis) that boyang food can be delicious and gourmet. They have done so well that they moved from a little store that could barely fit 30 people to a place that seats 150. And yes, the specialty of the house is lamb. You can get fresh

Beer and Wine at La Taverna

This is a joint that specializes in homemade churros with chocolate sauce. The churros are deliciously crispy. The restaurant has some new twists on the churro, such as the ham and churro plate and even an eggs benedict churro. Oh, they also have a full bar and many different coffees.

The crème brûlée is worth getting to, but you have to go through course after course of freshly made, hot dishes to get to them. The menu at Chez Simon changes regularly depending on the season, but rest assured it will be made with precision.

After a day of so many sweets, it would probably be best to just have a glass of wine or beer with friends. I would recommend visiting the comfortable and nice La Taverna. They have a nice collection of Italian wines and finger foods; there is also their famous tiramisu.

One Chu 원츄

T. 02-516-5871 Open: 9am–11pm Price: Under KRW 7,000

T. 02-516-3202 Open: Tuesday–Sunday 1pm–11pm Closed Mondays Price: Under KRW 10,000

[ Map 9 C1]

[ Map 9 B1]

Chez Simon 쉐시몽

La Taverna 라 타베르나

T. 02-730-1045. Reservations recommended. Open: 11am–3pm, 5–10pm Price: KRW 40,000 per person

T. 02-792-9936 Open: 4pm–12pm Price: KRW 10,000–20,000 per person

salad. I was a bit skeptical of the tortilla at first because in Korea fresh greens are usually

I’m Camper

used for wrapping, but it was delicious. The lamb is also very good in their sweet-and-

(Sangsu-dong)

(Gangnam U-Street)

This is a camping-themed restaurant, except you are not outside with the bugs, smokey campfire, lions, or bears. The interior of the pub restaurant is decorated with camping equipment. Sitting areas are under canopies and in tents. Guests sit on park benches, and food gets served on aluminum camping utensils and bowls. The food comes on large family-style platters with salad and an assortment of barbecued vegetables, meat, and sausages. I especially liked the steamed corn on the platter. They have plenty of cold beer available to drink with your meal.

If you are looking for a great noodle experience I recommend Yomenya Goemon, which has Italian pastas made with a Japaneselike attention to detail. Their pastas are made with precision and are not overly saucy, sweet, or oily. Interestingly, they use Japanese bamboo strainers to drain the pastas, which I think makes the texture of their pasta silkier. Their carbonara is good, but be adventurous and get their fish egg and seaweed pasta or their natto pasta. Their tomato bolognese is good as well. They give cup after cup of jasmine tea with your meal, and you get to finish it off with either crème brûlée or mango ice cream. The crème brûlée is good; the mango ice cream had chunks of real mango, but the pudding on the bottom wasn’t so great. The price is reasonable. Sets are KRW 15,000 a person and you get two small pastas and dessert.

menu (48-hour advance notice needed). Service is friendly and thoughtful. They offer coat covers for each person so guests won’t go home smelling of lamb barbecue. The restaurant has a raucous yet polite energy, and the place is always busy. It is highly recommended you make reservations in advance.

Lamb Land 램랜드 ★★★☆ T. 02-704-0223 Hours: 11:30am–10pm Price: KRW 8,000–30,000 per person Daeheung Station 대흥역 (Line 6), Exit 3 or Mapo Station 마포역 (Line 5), Exit 1

Near Soon Chun Hyang Univ. Hospital: Hannam Station 한남역 (Jungang Line), Exit 1 or Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 2 or 3

[ Map 3 B2]

Quick Bites

lamb galbi, chunks of lamb (KRW 12,500 per 100 g serving). After the lamb is cooked,

sour mustard dip. If you are feeling a bit more adventurous, they also have turtle on the

Dessert

A Full Course Dinner at Chez Simon

Australian lamb on the bone (KRW 25,000 per 200g serving) grilled at your table or they make a mini-lamb taco made with tortilla, black olives, and their homemade corn

Dinner

Churros with Chocolate at One Chu

Le Alaska 르알래스카

qualities rather than for its taste. In 10 years, Lamb Land has shown these older men (who

La Taverna

Chez Simon

아임캠퍼

Yomenya Goemon

요멘야 고에몬

Saint Augustin

(Cheonggye Plaza) If you are looking for a classy restaurant that oozes Asian flair then head to Saint Augustin. The restaurant specializes in Thaiish food served up in a refined atmosphere. Recommended dishes here are the Poo Phad Phong Kari, fried soft-shelled crab in yellow curry (KRW 28,000). The egg in the sauce was great and the crabs were soft. I would have preferred it a tad crispier, but it was good. The Som Tam papaya salad (KRW 16,000) is also very good. Mind you, it is a tad spicy, but the sauce is refreshing. The Neua Phad Nammanhoy (KRW 29,000), is also very good, with its tender chunks of marinated beef and crisp asparagus. To round out your meal, I recommend the Goongyai Pad Thai (KRW 18,000), one of the better pad thais I have had in Seoul. Sadly, they don’t have a dessert menu, so I went with the Vietnamese coffee. Not bad—but I would have loved a mango and sticky rice.

★★★☆

T. 02-334-0770 Hours: 4pm–10pm

Seocho-gu Seocho Daero 77-gil 7 T. 02-534-8036, www.yomenya-goemon.co.kr Hours: 11:30am–10pm

★★ ☆

[ Map 9 B3]

[ Map 1 B3]

[ Map 7 F1]

생어거스틴

T. 02-778-7718, www.augustin.co.kr Hours: 11:30am–10pm (1pm–3pm break)

Saint Augustin

Dining & nightlife Cafés, Bars & Clubs

Talk of the town

SKINNY KOREANS

While developed world gets fatter, Koreans remain remarkably thin Written by Robert Koehler

DANCING THE NIGHT AWAY IN THE HEART OF SEOUL Written by Daisy Larios Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

yeongdong Night Festival is Myeong-dong’s stab at staying up past its usual bedtime. Although both tourists and locals flood the area during daytime hours to indulge their bent for shopping, things generally shut down by 10pm. The festival seeks to lure party people away from the usual haunts of Itaewon and Hongdae and deep into the heart of Myeong-dong for their festive proclivities. The open-air dance party—which was begotten as Myeongdong Dance Night last September—emerged from its winter hibernation on March 9, rechristened as the Myeongdong Night Festival. Even the lingering memory of winter’s cold couldn’t keep the merrymakers at bay. The unusually warm March weather brought out the spring fever in everyone; dance enthusiasts and casual onlookers alike were infused with the musical energy emanating from the DJs onstage. “It’s such an enormous task for the DJs to get such a big crowd excited. But the music is really great,” said Yiyi Lu, an exchange student from China. The din of the crowd could be heard from Myeong-dong’s entrance, the continuous stream of lights signaling out to wayward revelers like a musical lighthouse. Amidst the specters of local retail giants like 8 Seconds and Teenie Weenie, a club-like atmosphere surged beneath the spring-like sky. Young city slickers donned their stunna glasses at night, and ardent dancers furtively practiced their dance moves a bit removed from the throng, impervious to any distractions. Spontaneous dance battles broke out along the edges of the amebic crowd, and at one point a conga line erupted and writhed its way through the masses, collecting neophytes along the way. A massive LCD screen overhead showed real-time footage of the event. “I love it,” said Bruce, from Memphis, Tennessee. “I love everybody coming together and having fun!” The international camaraderie lasted long into the night, until the last beats of Myeong-dong’s dancing heart finally gave out at 2am. The store signs glowed on stubbornly. Hosted by the Myeongdong Special Tourist Zone Association and sponsored by the Jung-gu district, Myeongdong Night Festival will be held once a month for the remainder of the year. The next party will be on April 6 and will be themed “the environment.” Restaurants and bars in the area will be open late on festival days, and the local CGV will be offering discounted late-night movie tickets. It is held in front of Myeongdong Theater—and best of all, it’s free.

Myeongdong Night Festival www.facebook.com/ myeongdongnightfestival (Korean only) Myeongdong Theater: [ Map 4 B2]

USA

GERMANY

KOREA

31%

13%

graph of obesity rates by nation was posted on the website of a Korean online community. The graph, composed of “emoticons” that grew increasingly spherical in accordance with national obesity rates, caused quite a stir. Firmly planted at the most globular end of the graph were, naturally enough, the pleasantly plump Americans, with a national obesity rate of 31%. At the far opposite end—with an emoticon so thin you’d almost have to squint to see it—are the Koreans, with an obesity rate of just 3%. Not only are Koreans thin, but their bodies are becoming more “Westernized.” According to a recent study by the Ministry of Knowledge Economy’s Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, middle-aged Korean men and women are growing thinner and their legs are growing longer, which the ministry attributed to changes in diet and increased exercise. As further evidence, the Shinsegae Department Store’s online store now has a section dedicated to “big-sized” bras of C-cup and over. The online store noted that while A- and B-cup sales have fallen from 92% of all bra sales in 2010 to 69% last year, C-cup sales have skyrocketed from 8% to 23%. With obesity a growing problem in much of the developed world, why do Koreans remain so thin? What’s their secret?

Visitors to Korea often remark on how thin Koreans—and Korean women in particular—are. And indeed, Koreans can be quite vicious in their standards. In a post at popular K-pop blog allkpop entitled “What Koreans Consider ‘Fat’,” poster Freyja posts pictures of “chubby” entertainers such as Shin Ae, Solbi, and Song Hye-kyo, none of whom are likely to star on The Biggest Loser anytime soon. Certainly genetics play their part. Koreans—like other Asians—tend toward ectomorphic body types, which is to say, thinner, lighter builds often accompanied by higher rates of metabolism. Lifestyle and culture, however, play very important roles, too. Although the Korean diet is changing—a fact much bemoaned in some quarters of the Korean press—Koreans still eat more vegetables and less fat than other peoples around the world. In his 2010 book The Five Factor World Diet, celebrity trainer and author Harley Pasternak praised Korean cuisine as one of the healthiest in the world—it’s low in fat and high in tofu, noodles, fish, and fermented vegetables, most notably Korea’s signature dish, kimchi. In her Korean Diet Tips posted at eHow, Lane Cummings also notes that Koreans eat relatively little meat (the popularity of galbi and bulgogi notwithstanding) and consume little added sugar, with the most popular form of carbohydrate being gluten-free and sugar-free rice.

Healthy diet plays its part

Too skinny, perhaps?

OECD statistics bear out the Korean miracle. In an increasingly spherical world, Korean obesity rates are shockingly low. As of 2009, Korea’s obesity rate was just 3.8%, slightly below the second thinnest nation, Japan, and rating pretty well against non-OECD states India (2.1%), Indonesia (2.4%), and China (2.9%). The data also shows that these rates have held steady over the last decade, in contrast to many other OECD states where rates have climbed (and in stark contrast to the United States, where rates have skyrocketed). Mind you, the news wasn’t entirely good. While obesity rates are extremely low, 30.5% of Koreans were “overweight.” That’s still a good number compared to other OECD nations, but it is considerably higher than Japan, where just 24.9% of the population was overweight. Korea’s obesity rate for girls (16.2%) was also higher than that for girls in several other OECD nations such as Turkey, Norway, and France, albeit still better than most of the rest, and nowhere near as bad as the United States (35.0%) and Greece (45.0%).

Social pressure also helps keep Koreans thin, especially if you’re a woman. A 2009 report by the Ministry of Health found that two in ten Korean women suffered from undernourishment. Just to put that into perspective, that’s roughly the same rate of undernourishment as Sudan, according to a 2009 UN study. Unlike Sudan, however, female undernourishment in Korea is largely voluntary. Young women suffer especially high rates of undernourishment—a 2012 report in the Korea Times noted that extreme dieting was common among Korean women; advertisers and media promote body images some consider unrealistic, and society encourages young women to lose weight. Korea Times cited a report by the National Youth Policy Institute which warned that 70% of young Korean women have been on a diet, in contrast to countries such as China, Japan, and the United States, where the rates were just 48%, 46% and 33%, respectively. Citing a report by Y.H. Khang and S.C. Yun, Harvard University’s Tess Hellgren noted statistically significant rises in “underweight” BMIs in women aged 20 to 39, a remarkable trend given global trends towards greater obesity.

Shopping

YOUR WISH LIST IN

SEOUL KOREAN-MADE GOODS TO TAKE HOME WITH YOU

Handmade accessories from Hoya n More Handmade goods are no longer limited to small markets but are making inroads into the retail market. Hoya n More is one of a handful of local small shops offering a unique shopping experience for high-quality and innovative handcrafted accessories. Best known for simple design and special materials, Hoya n More’s selection includes dressy bags, clutches, pouches, necklaces, bracelets, and customized letterpress cards.

Written by Monica Suk Photographs courtesy of various manufacturers

eoul is a shopping paradise, with traditional and modern commercial streets alike beckoning visitors. Your vacation here wouldn’t be complete without a tour of windowshopping and local snacks. SEOUL has chosen seven affordable made-in-Korea products to ensure your satisfaction.

Price: KRW 39,000–328,000 T. 02-517-0991 www.hoyanmore.com [ho:ya] and more: [ Map 9 C1]

Premium tea from OSULLOC OSULLOC is the country’s largest tea company manufacturing high-quality goods. Established in 1979, OSULLOC started as a green tea manufacturer and has grown rapidly since opening tea houses in 2001. From fermented tea to roasted tea and special blends, its products have built a reputation through their subtle taste that is light but full.

Handmade high heels from Last Avenue A woman can never have too many shoes. High heels can come in different varieties of color, height, and material, but the most important thing to consider is whether it’s comfortable yet manages to stay stylish. Shoe designer Reina Choi uses high-quality leather imported from Italy and offers heels at reasonable prices. Located in a back alley in Samcheong-dong, the shop is in a hanok (traditional Korean-style house) decorated with acrylic shoe materials. Choi recently opened another shop in Sinsa-dong that touts a modern twist on classic style.

www.osulloc.com Myeong-dong OSULLOC Tea House (T. 02-774-5460): [ Map 4 C2]

Price: KRW 138,000–398,000 T. 02-543-7808 www.lastavenue.co.kr LARC (Last Avenue by Reina Choi) Store#1 (T. 02-730-7807): [ Map 3 B3] Store#2 (T. 02-543-7808): [ Map 9 C1]

Galaxy Camera from Samsung DSLR cameras were a thing in Korea only three years back, but why bring that heavy machine around when you can use lightweight ones that don’t require you to move photos manually? Take a look at Samsung’s brand-new Galaxy Camera and you’ll almost ask if it’s a smartphone. The Android-based mobile device works great for travelers who want to update their friends on what they’re doing in real time. Shoot, edit, and upload all at once with this amazing compact camera.

Socks from Socks Pill Bored of wearing white and black socks every day? Choosing what to wear and matching it with socks and shoes is perhaps one of the most irksome of everyday concerns. Socks Pill is your go-to shop for perfecting your style and making subtle changes in your daily routine. This Apgujeong-based select shop’s products vary in color and design and are packaged in transparentcolored capsules, which will definitely trigger a shopping spree here.

Price: KRW 5,000–12,000 T. 02-511-4557 www.facebook.com/SocksPill [ Map 9 C1]

Price: WiFi KRW 590,000 / LTE KRW 690,000 www.samsungimaging.com Samsung d’light (T. 02-2255-2272, www.samsung.com/sec/dlight) B1 Samsung Electronics Building Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2, Sinbundang Line), Exit 8

Intense Care Snail Cream from TONYMOLY Whoever said that beauty is only skin deep must have lived during a time when mirrors had not been invented yet. In fact, beauty is all about skin. While thousands of magic ingredients come and go, driving the local beauty trends, snails have taken over the local cosmetic business. This heaven-sent product is known to soothe skin and prevent wrinkles with its thick, soft texture.

Price: KRW 36,000 www.etonymoly.com TONYMOLY Myeong-dong store no. 1 (T. 02-318-7871): [ Map 4 C3]

Korean fried kelp from Oh Hui-sook Traditional Bugak Bugak is a traditional snack and side dish that Korean people enjoy. Bugak is made by frying vegetables or kelp, lightly sprinkled with some sugar and salt. Oh Hui-sook, who is called the master of bugak, makes 18 different kinds of bugak with healthy ingredients including sea mustard, seaweed, peppers, potatoes, beans, and even garlic. Fried and coated with glutinous rice paste, it brings out the real taste of the main ingredient without its strong bitterness or spiciness.

Price: around KRW 3,000 per individual bag http://ohs.co.kr E-mart Times Square Branch (T. 02-3468-1234): Yeongdeungpo Station 영등포역 (Line 1), Exit 5

Interview

GALAXY EXPRESS: TO THE UNIVERSE AND BEYOND! KOREAN ROCK TRIO TAKES THEIR SHOW TO SXSW Written by Monica Suk Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

atching Galaxy Express’ performance, it takes less than 10 minutes to realize that the greatest compliment for a rock band is, “They’re nuts.” And that’s exactly what Korean rock trio Galaxy Express wants to hear. Since forming the band in 2006, members Park Jong-hyun (guitar/vocal), Lee Ju-hyun (bass/vocal), and Kim Hee-kwon (drums) have built a solid ground in the local music scene as a true one-of-a-kind band. In the seven years of their career, Galaxy Express has already invaded other planets with their signature mixed genre style of garage rock, punk, and psychedelic music. They’re the first Korean artists to be invited to South by Southwest (SXSW) for three straight years (since 2011), the first in the country to hit the road for a US tour in 25 cities in 14 states, and the first to set the milestone of winning Album of the Year at the Korean Music Awards for their debut album Noise on Fire only three years after they debuted. In an interview with Galaxy Express on Feb 28, a week before they kicked off their second US tour, the three musicians were just being them—Jong-hyun taking the lead in the conversation, Ju-hyun chiming in every minute with his typical sense of humor, and Hee-kwon silently exuding a free-spirited rocker energy. Below is an excerpt from the interview, with the rockers sharing their thoughts on music and their excitement before the tour. SEOUL: It’s quite impressive that you guys have expanded into other countries in just six years. Jong-hyun: Wow... I haven’t even realized that it’s been six years. Times does fly. Six years would have felt like a very long time when I was in school, but it passed in just a second while doing music. Ju-hyun: I wonder if I’ve ever worked hard for anything other than music. I was literally living for music the whole six years. Back in school, I was doing bad, bad things (chuckles). SEOUL: So at what age did you guys start the band? Ju-hyun: I’m now 22 so that means... (laugh) I’m 36 now. Jong-hyun: At least we formed the band when we were in our 20s. SEOUL: I hear there’s a whole theme and story behind your band name, Galaxy Express. Jong-hyun: Ju-hyun suggested a name with the image of the universe or aliens. Ju-hyun: We were basically like otakus (a Japanese term referring to people with obsessive interests) at first. We even had nicknames to go along with our whole galaxy theme. But we’re back to normal now, living ordinary lives. SEOUL: If I had to compare your personas to a musical genre, all three of you would be very different. How did you guys decide the band’s main genre? Jong-hyun: Me and Ju-hyun used to be in punk bands before Galaxy Express. So naturally, we started off as a punk band. But because we refuse to be normal or obvious, we thought, “Why not just mix everything together?” From psychedelic music to classic rock, putting all those together made this (pointing himself with a poker face). SEOUL: You’re one of a handful of local musicians who know how to have fun onstage. Where does that energy come from? Jong-hyun: We’re really having fun on the stage. I don’t like to pretend to look cool in front of audiences. The moment I go up there, it’s all about enjoying the moment.

Ju-hyun: I think all three have us were born with that energy. Even Hee-kwon, who is normally very quiet, pounds and beats drums like his arms are gonna fall out when performing. I didn’t even know he was [active and energetic] like that until we watched our video on YouTube. SEOUL: What’s the most memorable comment you guys saw online from your fans? Ju-hyun: “This is nuts.” (all three break into laughter) Jong-hyun: That just means he knows all about us! SEOUL: It’s been about four years since you started taking your tours abroad, including to Hong Kong, Taiwan, and France. Do you guys have a sense of duty as a pioneering Korean rock band? Jong-hyun: We were born and raised in Korea so that comes out naturally. But we don’t think it’s like a mission for us to let the world know more about Korea. We’re just doing what we like as artists. SEOUL: It’s amazing that people are attracted to you and your music without even understanding the Korean lyrics. Ju-hyun: It’s not just melody that matters. It’s the whole spirit or energy in the room that makes people understand who we are. Jong-hyun: Music is the universal language of humankind. When we go crazy onstage, people know we’re excited, and when singing slowly, they know it’s something sad. We don’t have problems with singing in Korean. You don’t even need a special education to listen to music. SEOUL: In recent years, the word K-pop has been in everyone’s lips, everywhere. Do you worry about people around the world understanding Korean music as something that’s only limited to girl groups and boy bands? Jong-hyun: I fear such a trend could show the world only a part of K-pop. But using this fever as leverage, we can introduce them to other genres of Korean music. Ju-hyun: Because we pursue different things from K-pop artists, the popularity of girl groups and boy bands does not have a big effect on us. In fact, we’re just paving our own road. Jong-hyun: But we do get a lot of interviews from foreign media thanks to the K-pop boom. Ju-hyun: Years ago when I was visiting France, all people asked me about were North Korea, Kim Jung-il, and missile tests. They thought Korea was at war and asked me if I was okay (laughs). But I don’t get that now. K-pop is more popular than Kim Il-sung now. SEOUL: What do you want to gain from touring overseas? Ju-hyun: Wealth and fame (laughs). Jong-hyun: We just want to live to the fullest by experiencing what you can’t here in Korea. Something new, and something crazy.

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DISCOUNT

Goings-on around town LORIN MAAZEL & MUNICH PHILHARMONIC

PREVIEWS+

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Apr 21, 5pm / Apr 22, 8pm KRW 70,000–350,000 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5

T. 02-580-1300

T. 02-3141-6063

Sangam Seoul World Cup Stadium Apr 13, 6:30pm KRW 110,000, R: KRW 99,000, S: KRW 88,000, A: KRW 77,000, B: KRW 55,000 T. 1544-1555 World Cup Stadium 월드컵경기장역 (Line 5), Exit 1

Lorin Maazel will meet Korean fans with the Munich Philharmonic Orchestra in two Seoul concerts. The Munich Philharmonic first visited Korea in 2007. The US maestro will present a selected program of Beethoven's Coriolan Overture and Symphony No. 4 and 7 on April 21, while Igor Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring is on offer on the second day. Teenage prodigy pianist Cho Sung-jin will take the stage as a collaborator. Born in 1930, Maazel is one of the most important conductors of our time. He is also a violinist and composer.

WORLD DJ FESTIVAL Narukke Festival Park, Yangpyeong May 17–19 KRW 99,000–150,000 http://worlddjfest.com Yangpyeong Station 양평역 (Jungang Line)

PSY CONCERT—HAPPENING

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“Happening” marks the worldwide release of global sensation Psy’s latest single of the same name. The concert is already getting plenty of global attention, with coverage from Billboard, MTV, and other international media. And in true Psy style, Psy will be broadcasting the concert worldwide through YouTube. To allow his faithful Korean fans to hear the song first, YG Entertainment will first release the song in Korea the day before the concert.

10% BUSINESS TYPE: NAIL

Manicures & Pedicures: 10% discount

2,000 won Discount BUSINESS TYPE: SPA 2,000 won discount on entry

10%

KRAFTWERK Dome Stage, Jamsil Stadium West Parking Lot Apr 27, 9pm Jamsil Sports Complex Station 잠실운동장역 (Line 2)

KRW 110,000

METAL FEST 2013

T. 02-332-3277

T Olympic Park May 9, 6:30pm KRW 110,000–132,000 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

Kraftwerk, a globally renowned electronic music band from Germany, is coming to Seoul for its first-ever concert on April 27. The band, meaning “power plant”, was founded in 1970 in Dusseldorf, Germany. Kraftwerk’s sound is minimalistic and strictly electronic. Its signature sound combines driving, repetitive rhythms with catchy melodies, mainly following a Western Classical style of harmony. In October 2012, Kraftwerk was nominated for induction into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. The lucky 7th World DJ Festival is taking place May 17–19, gathering talented young artists and fans. The lineup this year includes Dash Berlin, Freemason, DJ BL3ND, Freemasons, 2E LOVE, SHUT DA MOUTH, and ARICAMA. There will be something for most music lovers, including trance, hip-hop, electro, and rock. For those who like to dance like nobody is watching, there will also be a silent disco. Numerous entertainment tents will give you the opportunity to zip around all night long. Festival updates are listed at www.worlddjfest.com.

T. 02-3141-3488

A number of big-name heavy metal bands will gather in Seoul for Metal Fest 2013 next month. International headliners include Slash and Deftones, while Yellow Monsters will lead the pack of local artists. Slash is best known as the former lead guitarist of the American hard rock band Guns N’ Roses, with whom he achieved worldwide success in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Deftones is an American alternative metal band from Sacramento, California, founded in 1988. They have released seven albums to date, including three platinum albums (Adrenaline , Around the Fur , White Pony ).

LEE DUEG-YOUNG'S PHOTO EXHIBIT Ilmin Museum of Art

Thru Apr 28

KRW 2,000

T. 02-2020-2081

www.ilmin.org

[ Map 1 B3]

Apr 23–26, 8–10pm

Celebrated photographer Lee Dueg-young’s exhibit of his latest Hangang River-themed collection is underway at Ilmin Museum of Art. Lee has been methodically documenting urban spaces in southern Seoul as well as Hangang riverside landscapes. Lee took photographs on several boats, traveling the 48 km waterway of the river from its upper region down to the Gimpo area. The river has its own unique things—scary long bridges, monotonous gymnastic facilities, swimming pools, huge parking lots, etc. They repeatedly form a certain shape and play their function, and people use them according to their needs.

KRW 30,000

T. 02-2270-1237 (Eng)

Jongno 3-ga Station 종로3가역 (Line 1, 3, or 5), Exit 7

Gyeongnam Folk Culture National Folk Museum of Korea Apr 17–Jun 24 Free T. 02-3704-3114, www.nfm.go.kr [ Map 3 A2]

SEOUL NOSTALGIA : A Retrospective Photographic Exhibition of Kim Hanyong Seoul Museum of History Thru May 5 Free T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr [ Map 1 A3]

T. 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Masterpiece Coreana Art & Culture Complex Thru May 31 Adults: KRW 3,000, Youths: KRW 2,000 T. 02-547-9177, www.spacec.co.kr [ Map 9 B1]

CLASSICAL MUSIC

Art Across America National Museum of Korea Thru May 19

2013 SAC Orchestra Festival Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Apr 1–17

KRW 12,000 T. 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

R: KRW 30,000, S: KRW 20,000, A: KRW 10,000 T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

The Peranakan World— Cross-cultural Art from Singapore and the Straits

Spanish Flavor Kumho Art Hall Apr 4, 8pm

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Enjoy a royal moonlight walk at Changdeokgung Palace! Amazing as the palace is in daylight, it’s even more magical when you stroll the grounds under the light of the full moon. The palace is known for its aesthetics and architecture, set against breathtaking natural scenery. In 1997, UNESCO desginated the palace as a World Cultural Heritage site. Sponsored by the Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation, the guided tour begins from the main gate, Donhwamun Gate, and continues for approximately two hours through Injeongjeon Hall, Nakseonjae, and Huwon, known as Secret Garden. The moonlight tour will be held till October during the ful moon of each month. This month, the moonlight walk will be held from Apr 23–26. There is a limit of 100 people per outing.

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global T http://ticket.yes24.com/Home/PerfFN/PerfListFN.aspx

National Museum of Korea Thru May 19

10%

5% off household pottery

ENGLISH BOOKING

MUSEUMS

10% discount on all items + Free herbal tea

BUSINESS TYPE: POTTERY

2013 MOONLIGHT TOUR AT CHANGDEOKGUNG PALACE Changdeokgung Palace

BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

· Period of validity: April 1 ~ 30, 2013 · This coupon cannot be used in combination with other promotions. · This coupon cannot be used to purchase accessories made by Apple. www.concierge.co.kr

BOOKSHOP

BUSINESS TYPE: BOOK STORE [See p.5] 5% off all books * 02-734-9539

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: KOREAN TRADITIONAL SNACK

10% discount. *Other discount coupons cannot be used at the same time

10% BUSINESS TYPE: RESTAURANT 10% discount on all menu items

KRW 30,000 T. 02-303-1977 www.kumhoarthall.com [ Map 1 B3]

SAC Korean World Star Series Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Youngok Shin: Apr 5, Hanna Chang: Apr 29, Sumi Jo: Apr 30 T. 02-580-1300, www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Richard Clayderman Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Apr 11–12, 8pm KRW 50,000–150,000 T. 02-3463-2466 [ Map 1 B3]

Libera Boys Choir Concert in Korea Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Apr 13, 5pm R: KRW 99,000, S: KRW 77,000, A: KRW 55,000, B: KRW 33,000 T. 02-548-4480 www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

2013 Philharmonia Quartett Berlin Concert Tour in Korea Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Apr 25, 8pm R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 90,000, A: KRW 70,000, B: KRW 50,000, C: KRW 30,000 T. 02-6292-9368 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

DANCE Ahn Sungsoo & Kuho—Dan National Theater of Korea Apr 10–12, 8pm / Apr 13–14, 4pm VIP: KRW 70,000, R: KRW 50,000, S: KRW 30,000, A: KRW 20,000 T. 02-2280-4114 www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

T Tango Musical 'Tanguera' LG Arts Center Apr 25–May 8 VIP: KRW 130,000, R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 90,000,

A: KRW 70,000, B: KRW 50,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 9 C2]

MUSICALS T Les Miserables Blue Square Apr 6–May 1 VIP: KRW 130,000, R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 90,000, A: KRW 70,000, B: KRW 50,000 T. 1544-1591 www.bluesquare.kr Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6). Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2] T Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat Charlotte Theater Thru Apr 14 VIP: KRW 130,000, R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 90,000, A: KRW 70,000 www.charlottetheater.co.kr [ Map 10 ]

T Jesus Christ Superstar Charlotte Theater Apr 26–Jun 9 VIP: KRW 130,000, R: KRW 100,000, S: KRW 80,000, A: KRW 50,000 T. 1644-0078 www.charlottetheater.co.kr [ Map 10 ]

CONCERTS T The Script—Live in Seoul Uniqlo AX Mar 27 KRW 110,000 T. 02-332-3277 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

The Maly Drama Theatre of St. Petersburg—Three Sisters (directed by Lev Dodin) LG Arts Center Apr 10–12, 7:30pm

T Jane Birkin— Serge Gainsbourg via Japan Universal Art Center Mar 30, 7pm R: KRW 132,000, S: KRW 110,000, A: KRW 88,000 T. 02-6339-1232 Achasan Station 아차산역 (Line 5), Exit 3

R: KRW 70,000, S: KRW 50,000, A: KRW 30,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 9 C2]

eAeon—Realize K Art Hall, Olympic Park Apr 6, 7pm / Apr 7, 6pm KRW 44,000 –66,000

THEATER

Festival B:om Doosan Art Center, Sogang Univ. Mary Hall, and 5 other venues Mar 22–Apr 18 Ticket prices vary from free admission to KRW 110,000. www.festivalbom.org

VIP: KRW 66,000, R: KRW 55,000, S: KRW 44,000 T. 1544-1555 www.mintpaper.com Daeheung Station 대흥역 (Line 6), Exit 2

T Julio Iglesias Concet Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park Apr 9, 8pm KRW 90,000 –220,000 T. 02-407-2589 www.ehyundai.com Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3 T Youn Sun NAH Quartet LG Arts Center Apr 17, 8pm R: KRW 80,000, S: KRW 60,000, A: KRW 40,000 www.lgart.com [ Map 9 C2]

T. 02-6339-1232 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

T Jason Mraz—Live in Seoul Subsidiary Stadium, Jamsil Sports Complex May 17, 6:30pm

EZ Hyoung—3rd Album Release Concert Mapo Arts Center Apr 6, 7pm

R: KRW 132,000, S: KRW 110,000 Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

Keith Jarrett, Gary Peacock, Jack Dejohnette 30th Anniversary Trio Concert Sejong Center for the Performing Arts May 19, 7pm KRW 60,000 –220,000 T. 02-2187-6222 www.keithjarrett.kr [ Map 1 B3]

KOREAN MUSIC Sarangbang Recital National Theater of Korea Apr 12, 7pm KRW 20,000 T. 02-2280-4115, www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

Complete Pansori Performance National Theater of Korea Apr 21, 3pm KRW 20,000 T. 02-2280-4115 www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

KOREAN THEATER Traditional Performance: Jongga National Gugak Center Apr 4/18/19, 7:30pm A: KRW 10,000, B: KRW 8,000 T. 02-580-3300 www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to maeul bus No. Seocho 12 or green bus No. 4429.

Good Morning, Gwangdae Gut Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater Apr 9–11, 8pm KRW 20,000 T. 02-2261-0513 http://sngad.sejongpac.or.kr Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4. [ Map 4 D4]

KOREAN TRADITIONAL CEREMONIES Changing of the Royal Guard at Gyeongbokgung Palace Hongnyemun Gate 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm (except Tuesdays)

20%

BUSINESS TYPE: RESTAURANT

20% discount on all menu items T. 02-790-3447 [ Map 8 A1] Period of validity: April 1 ~ 30, 2013

10%

BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE

10% discount on all seats *Please make a reservation on the official ‘Miso’ website or by phone at least 3 days before the performance. *When payment is made on the spot after reservation, only people who present the coupon can avail themselves of the discount.

5% BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE 5% discount on on-the-door ticket sales

Admission for 10,000 won per person BUSINESS TYPE: EXHIBITION, EXPERIENCE

Valid for adults and children in groups of up to four people, until Feb 28

BUSINESS TYPE: CULINARY TOURS & COOKING CLASSES 10% discount

• Only shoppers with a coupon will receive discounts.

Goings-on around town

• Coupons must be presented at the counter before paying for merchandise.

SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVALS SET TO ROCK

• Limit: one coupon per person. Multiple coupons cannot be used at the same time.

FILM

• Coupons can only be used in participating stores— see coupon for details.

JEONJU FILM FEST KICKING OFF APR 25

FESTIVAL TO EXPLORE SMARTPHONE FILMS

The Jeonju International Film Festival (JIFF) will be held April 25–May 3, carrying on its tradition as a window of independent and experimental films around the world. This year, the focus will go to Indian films under the theme “Beyond Bollywood.” Launched in 2000, JIFF has concentrated on unique voices of independent films by presenting various and meaningful contemporary cinematic perspectives to audiences over the years. For more info, check out http://eng.jiff.or.kr.

The Olleh International Smartphone Film Festival will open in Seoul on April 17, helping explore a new avenue for filmmaking in an era of media revolution. The three-day event is an annual film competition that brings together 10-minute shorts produced solely by the use of smartphones. The festival aims to encourage work from aspiring filmmakers and amateurs who don't have access to more expensive production equipment. This year’s opener, titled Drawing Paper, was produced by a group of children living on remote islands under the guidance of filmmaker Bong Man-dae. For details, visit www.ollehfilmfestival.com.

• Discounts are available to foreign tourists only.

Selected Branch Stores: Apgujeong Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Yongsan Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

*Tax exemption applies to the amount of purchase exceeding KRW 30,000. *A free item is offered to customers depending on the amount of purchase (subject to change). Selected Branch Stores: Insa-dong Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

NEWS Selected Branches of It’s skin: Dongdaemun, Doota, Myeongdong Unesco, Myeongdong Jungang, Edae, Insadong, Jeongnam shopping (Myeongdong), Jongno.

JAZZ FESTIVAL TO BRIGHTEN MAY SEOUL NIGHT

본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Avenue Juno Cheongdam Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Gahoi Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Directions: Itaewon, Myeong-dong, Jonggak, Apgujeong, Coex, Sinchon, Yeoksam 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Olympic Park May 17–18 R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 99,000 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Myeong-dong Lotte Department Store Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

T. 02-563-0595

GREEN PLUGGED FEST ENLIVENS STARRY NIGHT www.greenplugged.com

The Green Plugged Seoul 2013 will take place at Noeul Park in Sangamdong May 21–22, promising to become an impressive outdoor music extravaganza for alternative music fans. Over 110 bands are scheduled to perform in the two-day event. Its lineup is studded with Korean rock stars like YB, Jaurim, No Brain, and Crying Nut. Common Ground, Gogoboys, Peterpan Complex, Black Bag, and many other established acts will also join forces with up-and-coming bands like Broccoli You Too? and Galaxy Express. Music fans and the like are encouraged to make a perfect getaway out of this event as the venue also serves as a huge campsite.

ENGLISH BOOKING Selected Branch Stores: Sinchon, Seodaemun Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Gyeongnidan Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Reservations: 02-751-1500 Selected Branch Store: Chongdong Theater 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Selected Branch Stores: Myeong-dong, Hongdae theater 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

Free T. 02-3700-3900 www.royalpalace.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]

Seoul Station 서울역 (Line 1, 4, A'REX), Exit 2

Changing of the Royal Guard at Deoksugung Palace Daehanmun Gate 11am, 2pm, 3:30pm (except Mondays)

Films

Free T. 02-3707-8414 www.royalguard.or.kr [ Map 1 B4]

Bosingak (Belfry) Daily BellRinging Ceremony Bosingak Belfry 11:30am–12:20pm (except Mondays) Free T. 02-120 www.royalguard.or.kr [ Map 2 B4]

ART EXHIBITIONS Sub Culture Express New discovery in leisure

Selected Branch Stores: Insa-dong Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

The Ultra Music Festival (UMF) will open June 14–15 at Olympic Stadium Complex, promising to offer a site for a mammoth electronic dance get-together. UMF first began in Miami and is now hosted in five different locations around the world each year. Headliner DJs include Armin Van Buuren, Avicii, and Carl Cox. A new addition to this heated festival market, Muse in City 2013 is taking place at Olympic Park on June 15, featuring female musicians only. The lineup includes Lenka, Lisa Hannigan, and Korean act Han Hee-jung. A seaside theme park near Daebudo Island will become the venue for the Ansan Valley Rock Festival (former Jisan Valley Rock Festival) July 26–28 and will feature the Nine Inch Nails, the XX, 3rd Line Butterfly, Coheed and Cambria, and FUN. The Jisan World Rock Festival 2013 is going to be hard to beat. Fans will gather at the off-season Jisan Valley Ski Resort for three solid days of rock ‘n’ roll. It is scheduled for August 2–4. The Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival will return August 2–4. Although there has been a bit of friction between Pentaport and Jisan, the two premium events have both managed to find a niche among Korean music fans. Over 60 bands will be heating up hot summer nights in this major outdoor rock festival. Super Sonic Festival will be held August 14–16 at Olympic Park in conjunction with Japan’s long-running Summer Sonic music festival. Last year, Smashing Pumpkins was an impressive headliner, and New Order stole the limelight.

INCHEON AIRPORT GOING CULTURAL YEAR-ROUND

SIGUR ROS—1ST LIVE IN SEOUL

Incheon Airport Year-round Free www.airport.kr, www.facebook.com/cultureport Incheon International Airport Station 인천국제공항역 (Airport Line)

Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park May 19, 6pm Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

Incheon Airport presents a wide diversity of cultural events throughout the year, hoping to establish its name as a “culture port” as part of its customer service efforts. The Millennium Hall on the 4th floor is the venue for performances and resembles an art gallery, as many works of art are on display. Its April program will feature “La Boheme” with The Marry, La Speranza, and The Cellos. At the Traditional Cultural Experience Center located in the duty-free area, visitors can learn how to make traditional artifacts and bring handmade items back home with them. Travelers can also enjoy traditional performances including traditional dances, singing, and musical instruments onstage at the center.

The three-piece Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Ros will perform in Seoul on May 19. Known for its ethereal sound, frontman Jonsi Birgisson’s falsetto vocals, and the use of bowed guitar, the band's music is also noticeable for its incorporation of classical and minimalist aesthetic elements. Since its 1994 debut in Reykjavik, Iceland, the band has garnered wide international acclaim for its signature style of playing guitar with the bow from a cello, accentuated with reverb, creating a sweeping, fluid sound that is unique for an electric guitar.

Culture Station Seoul 284 Mar 22–Apr 14 Free T. 02-3407-3500 http://blog.naver.com/seoul284

Hyundai Card Culture Project: Tim Burton

Seoul Museum of Art Thru Apr 14 KRW 8,000 –12,000 T. 02-2124-8973 http://sema.seoul.go.kr [ Map 1 B4]

Memory of Landscape I Have Never Seen Acquisitions of National Gallery in Prague

National Art Museum, Deoksugung Thru Apr 21 KRW 12,000 (including Deoksugung Palace entrance fee) T. 02-2188-6000 www.moca.go.kr [ Map 1 B4]

John Pai—In Memory's Lair Sculpture

Gallery Hyundai New Space Mar 28–Apr 25 Free T. 02-2287-3500 www.galleryhyundai.com [ Map 3 A4]

R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 99,000

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global T http://ticket.yes24.com/Home/PerfFN/PerfListFN.aspx

Selected Branch Stores: Hongdae Branch 본 쿠폰 서비스는 귀사의 제휴 서비스로 시행됩니다. 본 쿠폰을 제시하시는 외국인에게는 앞면에 기재된 혜택을 제공해 주시기 바랍니다.

The Rainbow Island Festival, out on Namiseom Island near Chuncheon, will return June 7–9, highlighting British band Travis and top-tier Korean bands like Idiotape and Clazziquai. During the three-day run, patrons have a rare opportunity to set up tent and camp on the island.

The Seoul Jazz Festival will return May 17–18 at Olympic Park, providing a fantastic opportunity to hear internationally acclaimed jazz artists perform blues, bossa nova, soul, and funk. Considered one of Korea’s biggest national music festivals, the event presents a stellar lineup of Korean and international artists. Among those slated to perform are Ramsey Lewis Electric Band with special guest Philip Bailey, Mika, Roy Hargrove, Roberta Gambarini, Damien Rice, Kings of Convenience, and Rodrigo y Gabriela. Each day, the festival will present a themed evening. Since its inception in 2007, the festival has been widely credited as the prime provider of a much-needed space for audiences seeking a nonmainstream sound.

Nanji Hangang Park May 17–18 2-day pass: KRW 109,000 World Cup Stadium Station 월드컵경기장역 (Line 5), Exit 1

Selected Branch Stores: SEOUL SELECTION BOOKSHOP

A string of music festivals are gearing up for action this summer with enhanced lineups and programs. Every year, more international bands visit Korea as part of their Asia tour circuit, with more people coming out to these music festivals. Below is a quick rundown of the season’s most anticipated music festivals.

T. 02-563-0595

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

Kim Mi-na—A Garden / Cho Hye-jin—Island

Georges Rousse

Contemporary art

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Apr 15–May 25

KT&G Sangsang Madang Mar 28–Apr 11 / Apr 18–May 3 Free T. 02-330-6200 www.sangsangmadang.com [ Map 7 E2]

Craft Masters Today Traditional craft and liquor

NamSeoul Living Arts Museum Thru May 12 Free T. 02-2124-8938 http://seoulmoa.seoul.go.kr Sadang Station 사당역 (Line 2, 4), Exit 6

Voyage to the Pop-Up Book World pop-up art

Hangaram Design Museum, Seoul Arts Center Mar 31–May 19 Adults: KRW 12,000, Youths: KRW 10,000 T. 02-730-4360 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Photography

Adults: KRW 5,000, Students: KRW 3,000 T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Opulence Treasures of Korean traditional craft

Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art Mar 28–Jun 2 KRW 10,000 T. 02-2014-6901 http://leeum.samsungfoundation. org [ Map 8 F1]

France in SongEun: The French Haunted House French contemporary art

SongEun ArtSpace Thru Jun 8 Free T. 02-3448-0100 www.songeunartspace.org [ Map 9 C1]

Yoon Myung-Ro: Traces of Mind Contemporary art

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea Mar 26–Jun 30 KRW 3,000 T. 02-2188-6000, www.moca.go.kr Seoul Grand Park Station 서울대공원역 (Line 4), Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

How to make a Book with STEIDL Book art

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum Apr 11–Oct 6 KRW 5,000 T. 02-720-0667 www.daelimmuseum.org [ Map 1 B2]

FESTIVALS The 51st Jinhae Gunhangje Jinhae, Gyeongsangnam-do Apr 1–10 T. 055-225-2341 http://gunhang.changwon.go.kr

Mountain Fortress of Daegaya Goryeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Apr 11–14 T. 054-950-6424 http://fest.daegaya.net

Hangang Yeouido Spring Flower Festival Yeouiseo-ro, Yeouido Around Apr 15

OTHER EVENTS T 2013 International Garden Exposition Suncheon Bay Korea Around Suncheon Bay, Jeollanam-do Apr 20–Oct 20 1-day pass: KRW 15,000 T. 1577-2013, www.2013expo.or.kr

Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Line 5, 9) or Yeouinaru Station 여의나루역 (Line 5)

K-Sool Festival 2013 Hall C, COEX Apr 25–27

Cheongdo Bullfighting Festival Cheongdo Bullfighting Ground, Gyeongsangbuk-do Apr 17–21

KRW 20,000 T. 02-761-2512, www.wtaexpo.com [ Map 9 D2]

T. 054-370-7500 www.청도소싸움.kr

Jindo Miracle Sea-Road Festival Jindo Island, Jeollanam-do Apr 25–28 T. 061-544-0151 http://miraclesea.jindo.go.kr

Goyang Korea Flower Show Ilsan Lake Park, Goyang-si Apr 27–May 12 T. 031-908-7750 www.flower.or.kr

Cosmetics & Beauty Expo The vicinity of KTX Osong Station (Osong Advanced Medical Complex), Chungcheongbuk-do May 3–26 KRW 11,000 T. 043-249-4523 www.osongbeautyexpo.kr

SPORTS Adidas MBC Hangang Marathon 2013 (full/ half/10km/5km/boost 15k)

Motorboat-racing resort area of Misa-ri, Hanam-si Apr 14, 9am KRW 40,000 www.mbc-marathon.co.kr

KRW 110,000 T. 070-8616-6749 www.metalcd.co.kr [ Map 7 D3]

REGULAR EVENTS CINEMA Future Shorts Film Festival 2013 Winter Season Platoon Kunsthalle Mar 30, 7:30pm KRW 10,000 http://futureshorts.com http://chincha.co.uk [ Map 9 C1]

CLUB INFO T ZEDD in Seoul VU Walkerhill Theatre Apr 6, 10pm Early bird: KRW 44,000 www.vuent.co.kr Take shuttle bus at Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4

Helloween & Gamma Ray V-Hall Jun 12, 7:30pm

Korean Traditional Stage, MISO An exemplary show of Korean culture and tradition Chongdong Theater Daily (no performance on Mondays) 4pm, 8pm R: KRW 50,000, S: KRW 40,000, A: KRW 30,000 T. 02-751-1500 www.koreamiso.com [ Map 1 B4]

Saturday Premium Performances The best concert series of traditional Korean performing arts Umyeondang, National Gugak Center Every Saturday, 4pm KRW 10,000 T. 02-580-3300 www.gugak.go.kr/eng Nambu Bus Terminal Station, Line 3, Exit 5. Take maeul bus No. Seocho 12or green bus No. 4429.

T Nanta A nonverbal performance that showcases the rhythmic energy of Korean culture Myeong-dong [ Map 4 B2] Mon—Sun 2pm, 5pm, 8pm

Hongdae [ Map 7 D2] Mon—Sun 5pm, 8pm

Chungjeongno Mon—Sun 5pm, 8pm Chungjeongno Station 충정로역 (Line 5), Exit 7 or 8 VIP: KRW 60,000, S: KRW 50,000, (Myeong-dong seat A: KRW 40,000) T. 02-739-8288 www.nanta.co.kr/en

T Ballerina Who Loved a B-boy Two opposites reconcile as a refined ballerina pursues the raw art of breakdancing. LotteWorld Art Hall Wed—Fri 8pm / Sat—Sun 3pm, 6pm VIP: KRW 60,000, R: KRW 50,000 T. 02-2266-3727 www.showbboy.com [ Map 10 ]

Expat community page

BULLETIN BOARD ACCESS MBA: 1-ON-1 EVENT Mar 21, 4pm–9:30pm

Mar 30–31

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam

The DMZ tour will visit the 2nd infiltration tunnel, Unification Observatory, Woljeongni Station and Labor Party Building in the northeast part of South Korea. The fee (KRW 105,000) covers transportation, 3 meals, accommodation, and entrance fees. www.adventurekorea.com Depart 8am from Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2), Exit 1

Meet the world’s top business schools. On-site registration: KRW 20,000. www.accessmba.com [ Map 9 B2]

KOREAN CLASSES

Itaewon Global Village Center Classes began in mid January and continue thru Mar 22. There are still spots left. The classes are free of charge. T. 02-2199-8883 http://global.seoul.go.kr/itaewon [ Map 8 E2]

FKCCI SPECIAL LUNCHEON Mar 25, 11am–2pm Novotel Ambassador Gangnam French Minister Fleur Pellerin, French Minister for SME’s Innovation and Digital Economy, will be present at this much-anticipated event for a special keynote speech: "SME Cooperation for Innovative Growth." Members: KRW 90,000 Nonmembers: KRW 110,000 T. 02-553-7215 [ Map 9 B2]

SEOUL GLOBAL CENTER: SEOUL FOLK FLEA MARKET Mar 30, noon–4pm Between Gwanghwamun and the main Sejong street intersection

COLORFUL SPRING ROAD TRIP Apr 6–7

DMZ Infiltration Tunnel in Cheorwon, Gangwon-do

ENCORE KOREAN FOOD & WINE PAIRING Mar 30, 7pm–10pm Modern Shikdang Sample delicious Korean favorites with organically produced Korean wine from Kenneth Kim Vineyards in Anseong. Learn which Korean foods match well with wine! Cost ranges from KRW 45,000 to 60,000. www.meetup.com/wine-784 [ Map 3 A4]

ANGEL HOUSE VOLUNTEERING 1st and 3rd Saturday, 1:30–7pm Angel House Volunteers will come together to clean, cook, launder, etc. for this shelter for orphans and the disabled in Goyang City. Your KRW 10,000 donation will be used to buy foods for the residents. contactkikihero@gmail.com www.031-963-6506.kti114.net Meet at the benches near Exit 3, Yeonsinnae Station 연신내역 (Line 3, 6).

SGC invites you to come and join in the spirit of sharing and encouraging the recycling of used goods. Download the application form at http://global.seoul.go.kr and submit via email to jglim@sba.seoul.kr. T. 02-2075-4180 [ Map 1 B3]

AROMA CLASS WITH SELINA YOON Apr 1/8/15, 11am & Apr 17, 3:30pm

SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: JEJU TRIP Mar 30–Apr 2

Make artistic and beautiful chocolates, soaps, lip balms, perfume, and anything else you can think of. www.seoultourism.kr [ Map 4 C3]

Jeju Island The KRW 90,000 fee covers guesthouse accommodation for 2 nights and rent-a-car transportation. Flight tickets not included. T. 010-6437-3280 www.meetup.com/globalexpats Meeting Place and Time: Gimpo Airport at 8:30am or Jeju Airport at 9:40am

ADVENTURE KOREA: BUNGEE JUMPING & OVERNIGHT DMZ TRIP

Sinbundang Line), Exit 5

Local Festivals in Nonsan, Gwangyang, Yeosu The 2-day, KRW 82,000 program covers a strawberry fest, white plum flower riverside village, a red Camellia island, a seriously pink azalea mountain, stunning Hyangiram hermitage sunrise hiking, and the World Expo aquarium! Limited to first 44 applicants. www.meetup.com/2rkorea Meet at Exit 1, Yongsan Station 용산역 (Line 1) at 7am.

LET’S FEED HOMELESS PEOPLE!—EASTERN SEOUL LOCATION Apr 6, 10:30am–2:30pm Garak Market Homeless Shelter Our task: Cleaning, cooking, serving, doing dishes, garbage disposal, and more dirty jobs. The shelter's run by a Catholic Church and the City of Seoul. T. 010-3385-7200 www.meetup.com/volunteers Garak Market Station 가락시장역 (Line 3, 8)

LET’S HELP CHILDREN— ENGLISH TO UNDERPRIVILEGED CHILDREN Apr 6/13/20/27, 10am–1pm Seoul Eastern Children Center Volunteers are needed for teaching English conversation to elementary school kids from very low-income families. T. 010-9333-7687 www.meetup.com/volunteers Junggok Station 중곡역 (Line 7), Exit 2

YEOL LECTURE— MODERNISM IN ASIA Apr 2, 10:30am–noon Seoul Museum of History YEOL, the Society for Korean Cultural Heritage, will invite Dr. Robert J. Fouser, professor at Seoul National University to discuss “The Preservation of Bukchon: Historical Background and Contemporary Influence.” Admission is free. T. 02-736-5868, www.yeol.org [ Map 1 A3]

each procedure

Myungjin Children’s Welfare Center, Go teach children and talk, play, sing, dance, and eat with them. Have fun doing something for a good cause. T. 010-3385-7200 www.meetup.com/volunteers Gubeundari Station 굽은다리역 (Line 5)

RASKB LECTURE: THE FEMALE FACE OF NORTH KOREAN CAPITALISM Apr 9, 7:30–9pm Somerset Palace, Residents’ Lounge Andrei Lankov will lecture on North Korean gender relations in the postfamine era under the title “The female face of North Korean capitalism.” Lankov studied in Leningrad State University and Kim Il Sung University in North Korea. Members: free, nonmembers: KRW 7,000 www.raskb.com [ Map 1 C2]

Sun-ju Hair Designer

010-3080-3669

VIDAL SASSOON IN UK CREATIVE STYLIST TONI & GUY IN UK TOP STYLIST Avenue JUNO Vice President • Vice President Education Director, Cheongdam Hair News Instructor at CEO course of Ewha Women’s University School of Continuing Education

Sara Davila will conduct a workshop on “Creative Thinking Techniques for the English Language Classroom.” Jeju Chapter president Marlene Wilkinson will answer questions sent to jejuchapter@gmail.com T. 010-9003-1840 www.koreatesol.org www.saradavila.com

5TH BNK MEET-UP Apr 6, 4pm–6:30pm

Books about various Korea topics will be introduced among members. Guests are welcome. Members: KRW 14,000, nonmembers: KRW 17,000 www.deutscherclubseoul.org [ Map 8 E1]

LET’S HELP MULTICULTURAL CHILDREN Apr 13, 3:15pm–6:30pm Jung-gu Multicultural Family Welfare Center

IGL Education

This group’s been invited to join in Seoul City Volunteer Center’s effort to take care of the children of multicultural families living in Seoul. T. 010-3385-7200 www.meetup.com/volunteers Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Lines 3, 4), Exit 1

Business Network Korea seeks to create an environment where everyone is open to creating new connections. Admission is KRW 20,000. www.businessnetworkkorea.com Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2,

REFLECTIONS OF RADIANCE Multidimensional artist Ruth Keijdener awoke in the middle of the night with these inspirational compositions and put them on canvas. A true kaleidoscope of strokes composed of vibrant oil paint and dramatic patterns poured out of her that night, creating what has become the basic ingredient for REFLECTIONS OF RADIANCE. Ruth teamed up with her photographer friend Inge Hooker, whose photographs have been exhibited throughout Asia and at the United Nations and been published by the New York Times. REFLECTIONS OF RADIANCE is the outcome of the collaboration between these two creative minds: a big, bold, and bright combination of paint, photography, and print designs.

Walk straight 100m from Exit 9, Cheongdam Station, Line 7. The shop(Avenue Juno) is on your right. [ Map 9 C1]

ROOFTOP HOUSE PARTY Apr 13, 5pm Let’s have a house party at the rooftop of a language institute near Mangu Station on Jungang line. Please sign up and wire a KRW 20,000 fee in advance. Please check the previous house party’s photos at www.meetup. com/globalexpats/events/76516092/ T. 010-6437-3280 (Harry Yoon) Mangu Station 망우역 (Jungang Line), Exit 2

LET’S FEED HOMELESS PEOPLE—WESTERN SEOUL LOCATION Apr 14/27, 11am–3:30pm Thomas Homeless Shelter Volunteers will have to roll up their sleeves and soak themselves in dirt and sweat. www.meetup.com/volunteers Yeongdeungpo Station 영등포역 (Line 1), Exit 6

DAVE RAMSEY'S FINANCIAL PEACE UNIVERSITY COURSE Every Thursday thru Apr 18, 7pm Rock City Church Financial Peace University (FPU) teaches God’s ways of handling money through video teaching, class discussions, and interactive small group activities. Cost: KRW 110,000 for 9 week course. icaseoul@gmail.com T. 010-8875-9504 Jamwon Station 잠원역 (Line 3), Exit 4

HOT SPRINGS/TREKKING Apr 20, 7:15am Chungju Suanbo Hot Spa A one-day bus trip features trekking, strawberry picking, and a visit to Chungju Suanbo Hot Spa and a makgeolli (rice wine) brewery in cooperation with a local government. Limited to 33 expats on a first-come, first-served basis. Fee: KRW 5,000 T. 010-6437-3280 www.meetup.com/seoullovers Sadang Station 사당역 (Line 2, 4), Exit 9

KOTESOL REGIONAL CONFERENCE 2013 Apr 20

Somerset Palace Seoul [ Map 1 Mar 29 – May 30 T. 02-6730-8888

C2]

We will embark on an excursion of the French Village (Seorae Maeul). Our journey will take us, through Montmartre Park, cafes, restaurants, and shops in the area. We will complete the morning with a delicious lunch in one of the local establishments! www.britishseoul.com [ Map 9 A3]

JEWELRY MAKING CLASS IN ENGLISH Every Tuesday thru Apr 30, 7pm–8:30pm Rock City Church Jewelry 4 Gems seeks to support women caught in life-controlling issues. Cost: KRW 30,000 per session. jewelry4gems@gmail.com T. 010-8875-9504 Jamwon Station 잠원역 (Line 3), Exit 4

QUANTIFIED SELF MEETUP #1 May 1, 7pm

Geunyoung Girls’ High School Our Jeonju-Jeollabuk-do regional conference is a place for us to share ideas and look at ways to be better

AMCHAM: 60TH ANNIVERSARY HWANGAP RECEPTION May 14, 6–8pm Conrad Seoul Join us to celebrate six decades of successful partnership between American businesses and Korean consumers and companies. We will invite senior private and public sector leaders and VIPs from both countries to celebrate our long-standing partnership. T. 02-6201-2200 www.amchamkorea.org Yeouido Station 여의도역 (Line 5, 9), Exit 3 or 4

BASS: QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY BALL Jun 1, 6:30pm Grand Hyatt Hotel The most eagerly anticipated ball of the year amongst the international community. Not to be missed! BASS Members: KRW 220,000, nonmembers: KRW 245,000 For ticket reservations contact: qbbtickets@yahoo.com [ Map 8 E1]

KOREAN ROYAL CUISINE CLASS Every Saturday thru Jun 29 Institute of Korea Royal Cuisine

Korea National University of Education

Join a Korean cooking class or register for more sessions for a certificate. No class on the first Saturday of each month. KRW 40,000 per session T. 02-3673-1122 www.food.co.kr Take maeul bus at Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 2.

KOTESOL 2013 National Conference is a forum where educators share their research, teaching methodologies, and experience, as well as a venue for increased networking abilities. http://koreatesol.org

AMERICAN CINEMA EVENINGS Every 3rd Friday thru Jul 19, 5pm

KOTESOL NATIONAL CONFERENCE 2013 May 25

Paris Bar, Grand Hyatt Hotel

Jeju Foreign Language Learning Center

Seorae Maeul

This is an informal first meet-up for people to learn and share about the different tools, gadgets, apps and other things they've been using to track and improve their lives. www.meetup.com/Quantified-SelfSeoul

Dos Tacos Languagecast is a place to practice languages that you are studying, and more importantly, a place for you to come and make friends. The meet-up takes place every Tuesday. www.meetup.com/Languagecast Anam Station 안암역 (Line 6), Exit 3

Apr 30, 10:30am–2pm

Venue: TBA

LANGUAGECAST KOREA UNIVERSITY Apr 9, 7:45pm–10pm

KULTOURCAFE Apr 11, 10am

KOTESOL: JEJUDO Apr 6, 3pm–5pm

M-Plaza, Seoul Global Culture & Tourism Center

20% off

LET’S HELP CHILDREN— EASTERN SEOUL LOCATION Apr 7, 1:45pm

American Center The event, hosted by the American Center of the US Embassy in Seoul, provides young Koreans an opportunity to explore American culture, history, and society through the medium of film. An RSVP is required. T. 02-397-4114 http://seoul.usembassy.gov/ack_ace. html Sookmyung Women’s University Station 숙명여대역 (Line 4), Exit 3 or 4

HOMEMADE ITALIAN LUNCHEONS Every Sunday thru Jul 28, 1pm Franciscan Foreign Kindergarten

The Sunday lunch is in the basement of the Franciscan School, on the right side of the new Embassy of Italy in Seoul. Cost: KRW 15,000 www.facebook.com/ groups/7562649675 Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 2

TTUKSEOM BEAUTIFUL FLEA MARKET Every Saturday thru Oct 31, noon–4pm Hangang River Park To become a participating vendor, you have to apply online three weeks to one week in advance. T. 02-1899-1017

www.flea1004.com/Eng Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7), Exit 2 or 3

----------------------------------------REGULAR EVENTS -----------------------------------------

FIRST THURSDAYS AFTERWORK PARTY Apr 4, 9pm

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL HIKERS CLUB

Sports and fitness events taking place in and around Seoul, usually every Saturday, sometimes Sundays. Participants pay for their own meal. sihclub@gmail.com

JANKURA ARTSPACE: REGULAR CLASS Every Tuesday & Thursday, 6–9pm Jankura Artspace

This event is a place to create new business opportunities. Online registration required. T. 02-2250-8080 http://afterworkseoul.com [ Map 5 B2]

Seoul’s first foreign-owned and operated studio and art class space with the expat community in mind. Fee: 3 months (12 classes): KRW 250,000, 1 time walk-in price:

teachers. T. 016-665-6915 jnjconference@gmail.com www.koreatesol.org

BUNDANG HALF MARATHON Apr 21, 8:30am Bundang Central Park Runners race along the Tancheon Creek, where beautiful cherry flowers are expected to be in blossom. Half marathon (21.0975 km), 10 km, and 5 km events are available. Registration continues till Mar 31. T. 010-9177-8878 (Chris Y. Chon) www.gumpu.org www.meetup.com/Runsploring-Seoul

RASKB LECTURE: SCHOLARS OF THE WORLD DISCUSS KOREA’S FUTURE Apr 23, 7:30pm–9pm Somerset Palace Emanuel Pastreich’s lecture is titled “Scholars of the World Discuss Korea's Future,” dealing with such scholars as Francis Fukuyama, Benjamin Barber and Noam Chomsky. The topics include populism, social welfare, education, free trade, and the outsider in politics. royalasiatickorea@gmail.com www.raskb.com [ Map 1 C2]

SEOUL SELECTION

BOOKSHOP

Largest collection of Korea-related books in English anywhere Friendly staff with tons of travel information

Film and drama DVDs, music CDs available, too

Grand Hyatt Hotel Come join the party as SIWA welcomes spring fiesta style! Music, fun, food, and drinks from around the world. All proceeds directly go to charities around Korea. Members: KRW 125,000, nonmembers: KRW 140,000 http://siwapage.com [ Map 8 E1]

BASS: FRENCH VILLAGE RENDEZVOUS

NR A R

ea s e n E ices apa. J , S tions serv hineseavailable ith deepulture. w c ,C nsla ish uagesanslatorsiety and Tra l g n ng nced tr ean soc for E a l or rie er oth hly expeding of K

BROCHURES

Lotte Hotel Seoul, Belle Vue Suite

FRIDAY FIESTA–SIWA FUNDRAISING GALA EVENT Apr 26, 7:30pm

A L S

NE O TI

Hig erstan und

ASIA SOCIETY KOREA CENTER'S SPECIAL LECTURE Apr 26, noon–1:30pm The lecturer is Kosuke Motani, who is chief senior economist of Japan Research Institute. koreacenter@asiasociety.org http://asiasociety.org [ Map 4 A1]

Address B1 Korean Publishers Association B/D 105-2 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul, Korea, 110-190 Tel 82-2-734-9565(Bookshop), 82-2-734-9567(Office) Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com

PUBLISHING Dozens of titles on all things Korean Specializing in books on

Korean culture, history and literature. Published titles include Korea’s best-rated travel guides.

Specializing in design of all kinds of English-language publications. Accurate English copy-writing and editing. Knowhow based on long experience.

FIVE MYTHS ABOUT WEIGHTLOSS Wrong exercise can kill you Written by | Dr. Vincent Jong of New York Wholistic Care

“If I purchase one of those ab machines from TV home shopping infomercials, will that make my stomach flatter?” Or, “If I want to have a defined body without bulky muscles I should use light weights with lots of repetitions per set.” Another goodsounding myth is, “Light exercise is not nearly as beneficial as strenuous exercise.” It drives me crazy when I hear all of these nonsense exercise myths. These stubborn exercise myths can lead you to waste your time, money, and effort without getting the results. This can often discourage you from continuing to exercise and can even harm your health. I would like to share some of these myths (and the truth) with you so that you can maximize the benefits from doing exercise.

Myth

1: You must do a lot of cardiovascular exercise to lose body fat. Wrong! Excessive cardiovascular exercise can strip muscles and fat, which is not efﬁcient way of burning body fat. For each kilogram of muscles you put on your body, you will burn 100 additional calories per day. An appropriate amount of cardio along with resistance workouts are what you need to effectively lose body fat.

Myth

2: The best way to lose weight is to eat very few calories. Wrong! Your body’s main object is to survive. Your body does not care whether you want to lose weight or not. In fact, your body will perceive the diet as famine and will try to survive by holding onto stored body fat.

Myth

3: You can trim the hips, buttocks or abs with spot reduction. Wrong! There is no such thing as isolated spot-reducing exercises. It would be nice if you could go to the gym and say, “I want to lose fat from my buttocks today.” However, it does not work that way. Excess calories are stored in fat cells called adipose tissue, which are spread all over the body. You body stores or releases energy from any fat cells in the body. You do not have any control over which fat cells recruit energy.

Myth

4: The more you sweat during exercise, the more fat you burn. Wrong! High-intensity workouts will burn more calories in a given time than low-intensity workouts. However, the amount of sweat does not reflect how hard you worked out. Everyone sweats more in hot dry weather or with more clothing. Some people are born to sweat while others rarely sweat. In fact, exercising in extremely hot conditions (like in hot yoga) or in a plastic “weight loss” suit will definitely make you sweat heavily and lose weight immediately. However, the lost weight is almost all water. The weight will bounce right back when you replenish your fluids by drinking water

Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care

T. 02. 792. 2296 Office Hours M-F: 8am~9pm Sat: 8am~5pm www.nywc.co.kr

after the workout. Furthermore, you may develop heat exhaustion since you cannot evaporate the sweat to cool down your body in a plastic suit. Myth

5: Sports drinks can help you exercise more safely and effectively. Wrong! Sports drinks are composed of two main ingredients: sodium and sugar. Sodium helps the body retain water and sugar helps replenish the energy used during exercise. However, most people do not exercise hard enough to use up their carbohydrate reserves or to sweat away excessive sodium from the body. You must run at least 2 hours before your carbohydrate reserve runs low. So unless you are training for a

marathon or triathlon,

Live without PAIN

all you need is simply plain water.

Ofﬁce hours: Mon–Fri 10am–7pm / Thu 2pm–7pm / Sat 10am–2am T. 02-792-2296 | www.nywholisticcare.com [ Map 8 E3]

International Health Insurance Benefit.

Maps & guides39 KRW 25,000 / T. 010-6227-4244 http://mstewartprintmaker.com/ jankuraenglish.htm [ Map 8 D3]

first Thursday of every month. standupseoul@gmail.com www.facebook.com/groups/ standupseoul

BREASTFEEDING SUPPORT GROUP MEET UP Every 3rd Thursday, 10:30am–noon

RMT TRIVIA NIGHT Every Sunday, 6:30pm

Homestead Coffee, Itaewon T. 02-749-9951 www.birthinginkorea.com/ Upcoming_Events.php [ Map 8 D3]

LATIN & SALSA DANCE 2nd, 4th Saturdays thru May 8, 5–6pm Renaissance Hotel, Toscana Italian Restaurant Great buffet and fun dancing. Learn to dance jive/cha cha cha/rumba/ waltz/tango with a professional instructor. Fee: KRW 50,000 T. 02-2222-8647 [ Map 9 C2]

BRITISH ARMY FITNESS Every Monday, 7:30pm Namsan Park Join British Army Fitness in Korea on their Monday evening boot camp. T. 010-9939-7830 www.bafikbootcamps.com [ Map 8 D1]

SEOUL STREETZ PROMO Every 3rd Friday, 7pm Nori Bar Seoul Streetz and Hip Hop promotion will feature alternative style performances and music, with beverages offered on markdown prices till 9pm. T. 02-325-7808 www.facebook.com/ events/120701391426729/

STAND UP SEOUL 1st Thursday, 9pm Rocky Mountain Tavern This is Seoul’s first English speaking comedy room. The main show with Korea’s funniest expats is held on the

Rocky Mountain Tavern Easily one of the best nights of trivia you will have in Korea. Multimedia categories with audio and video on huge monitors! Win cash, food, and more! Stick around around for karaoke! T. 02-792-5392 [ Map 8 E3]

----------------------------------------NEWS -----------------------------------------

REWARD FOR REPORTING KONGLISH SIGNS When you spot a tourism sign with bad English at tourist areas, please report it to the translation service team of Korea Tourism Organization and win a gift certificate worth KRW 30,000. www.facebook.com/konglish0

AUTOMATED FREE BICYCLE RENTAL

Yongsan-gu Office has an automated free bicycle rental facility for its

on tourist destinations, restaurants, transportation, and accommodations in the 10-member state ASEAN region. T. 02-2287-1133 huhj@aseankorea.org

MORE WEBSITES FOR EXPATS!

EXPAT ARTIST SET TO LAUNCH WEBSITE

Expatriate life in Korea gets better with every useful new source of information on how to get by in and enjoy this amazing, ever-active country. - Seoul Craigslist (http://seoul.craigslist.co.kr) The place to go for expat secondhand buying and selling, plus a variety of other services - Korea Job Finder (http://koreajobfinder.com) The place to go for jobs in Korea. - Cine in Korea (http://cineinkorea.com) Find the film you want, in the region of Korea you want, and book in online, all in English. Payment can be made by local bank transfer, PayPal, or credit card.

MOBILE APP FOR ASEAN TOUR

The ASEAN Tourism Mobile Application has launched an enhanced version that will be of great assistance to travelers seeking key information

Martyn Thompson plans to launch website PANK.kr (Professional Artists Network Korea), which will focus on local resources in terms of printing, framing, material supplies, and studio spaces. It will also list upcoming shows from international and local Korean artists. www.m-art-yn.com

Dubbed Korea’s first allEnglish talent search competition, Top Talent will be featured in late June and is now looking for aspiring expat artists and performers. Top Talent invites acts of any nationality to audition for a spot in the final competition. Top Talent winners, who will be determined through on-site audience votes, will take the stage at the 3rd annual Green Groove Festival this fall. The entire

seon buddhism Experience it at

Saturday English Buddhist Talks

SUSHI BAR EARL Sushi Bar Earl in Itaewon is a culinary vanguard that proves that great things can come in smaller packages. But small does not mean less. Its sushi menu is offered at rather reasonable prices–from KRW 9,900 up to KRW 24,900— while a wide variety of beverages, including sake and wine, are available. Its chef used to run Japanese restaurants in Japan, Canada, and Australia. The cozy eatery offers unique concoctions of traditional dishes and globallyinspired selections. With a simple yet innovative design concept, the place is casual but comfortably sits about 20 people. T. 02-790-3447 | www.earl.or.kr (Korean only) Map 8

A1]

ACCOMMODATION

Meditation Teaching Included

BANYAN TREE CLUB & SPA SEOUL

APRIL SCHEDULE

The hotel offers an incomparable, sweeping view of Mt. Namsan and the surrounding city. A relaxation pool in each room and suite is also ideal for taking in the beauty of Mt. Namsan and the night cityscape of Seoul. With only up to four rooms on each level, guests are ensured privacy and the luxury of space. You may feel as if you are within a forest at its outdoor facilities while enjoying sports or simply relaxing. Various programs are available for kids and adults at its facilities, which include a futsal field, tennis courts, and a golf driving range.

- April 6, Ven. Myongan (Malaysian)

www.digitalpeace2013.com

FOOD/BEVERAGE

[ Do you have any events or other info for our Bulletin Board? If so, please send details to book@seoulselection.com

Why Do You Live In This World: An exploration of why we live in this world, what we do in our daily lives, how to take away our suffering and live with peace and joy.

Hosted by the French and German embassies, the Institut Francais, and the Goethe Institute, Digital Peace is an artistic season oriented toward the celebration of peace and reconciliation, a series of events fitting into the historic continuity of this opening up of Korea. The program proposes a selection of Franco-German works, artists, thinkers, designers, expositions, schools, institutions, labels, and festivals—the common thread is the notion of peace expressed through the broadest variety of digital approaches, forms, and expressions. All the events are organized in collaboration, correspondence, or connection with Korean artists, galleries, institutions, schools, and labels. Platoon Kunsthalle

korean

Dongguk University International Seon Center

DIGITAL PEACE 2013

Apr 13, May 11 & Jun 22

ALL-ENGLISH AUDITION SEEKING EXPAT TALENT

residents, equipped with 20 bikes, in the 1st basement area of the building near the Yongsan Community Health Clinic entrance. T. 02-2199-7750 http://global.seoul.go.kr/itaewon

- April 13, Ven. Myongan (Malaysian) Zen – Mind Revoulution : What it means to practice Zen meditation and how it helps us to see and accept things for what they are and free ourselves from attachment and suffering.

APRIL

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’S PICK OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

T. 02-2250-8080 | www.banyantreeclub.net [

Map 5

B2]

- April 20, Ven. Bullim (Korean) [ Map 9 C1]

scheme aims at promoting crosscultural appreciation in Korea through live performances by singers, bands, dancers, contortionists, comedians, impressionists, jugglers, magicians, and many more. Online registration starts Apr 1. For details, visit www. toptalentkorea.com.

Who’s who? To differentiate the Buddhist images In a temple.

- April 27, Ven. Chongan (Hungarian)

ART/CULTURE

Ganhwa Seon Meditation Meeting

WORLD BEAT VINARI

Those who are interested in learning Ganhwa Seon meditation can receive special instruction on every Saturday 4pm~6pm. Those who want to participate in 7 days Intensive Ganhwaseon Retreat are welcome to contact the administration ofﬁce. Contact point (02)2260-3891~2, 010-2576-0315 / ysoo@dgu.edu International Seon Center, Dongguk University Closed on public holidays

www.hairandjoy.com

Front gate (vehicle entrance)

Seven Springs

Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2

8 10 9

Map

Gwanghwamun Area Seoul’s old downtown

Map

Insa-dong

Map

PHOTO & IMAGING SEOUL 2013 (P&I 2013) Exit 6 Dongguk Univ. Station Jangchung Gymnasium Hotel Shilla

3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Lotte Cinema (8F) UNICLO (1F)

Cost: KRW 40,000–60,000 | T. 02-744-6800 www.worldbeatvinari.com VINARI Theater, Cine Core: [ Map 2 D4]

ART/CULTURE

Inner gate

Jangchungdan Park

World Beat VINARI is a regular show staged by the fusion gugak (Korean traditional music) group Dulsori at the theater on the 4th floor of Cine Core in central Seoul. Vinari, meaning “wish” in Korean, is a well-wishing concert full of powerful energy and boundless enthusiasm that prays for the peace and happiness of everyone in the world. Its attractive rhythms and the charismatic performances of the musicians deliver messages of health, success, and love and create positive energy among the audience. On weekdays, the 80-minute show starts at 8pm; Saturday and Sunday shows are at 4pm. The theater is closed on Mondays.

Come out of Exit 6 of Dongguk University Station (Line 3) and head 50m toward the campus. The International Seon Center is on the third ﬂoor of the round theater on the left.

Tel. 02-2260-3891~2 http://seoncenter.dongguk.edu/

Photo & Imaging Seoul 2013 will take place at COEX, bringing together 300 leading brands—including Samsung, Canon, Nikon, and Sony—from 18 countries. Five exclusive photography-focused events are expected to attract an estimated 90,000 domestic and international participants. Over 750 booths will showcase everything from compact and DSLR cameras to printers, SD cards, editing software, and photo albums. On-site events will provide visitors with hands-on activities and demonstrations for an unparalleled photo and imaging experience. Exclusive biz-matching meetings between buyers and exhibitors will optimize trade opportunities at the event, ensuring global exposure for participants. Apr 4–7 | Online registration: free, on-site: KRW 20,000 T. 02-6000-8133 | www.photoshow.co.kr/english Hall A & B, COEX: [ Map 9 D2]

Map

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

Map

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

Map

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

Myeong-dong The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet

Map

Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s most hippest college town areas

A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

Dongguk University International Seon Center Soﬁtel Ambassador Hotel

HAIR & JOY

Map

Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond

Maps & guides

41 The Gwanghwamun area, named for the landmark gate that marks the entrance of historic Gyeongbokgung Palace, is Seoul’s “old” downtown and where you’ll find Seoul’s enchanting royal palaces as well as other historical and cultural sites, such as Insa-dong, Bukchon, and Jeong-dong.

Map 1 GWANGHWAMUN AREA A

Line 1

Metro

Line 8

Tip

Line 2

Line 9

Line 3

Bundang Line

Line 4

Jungang Line

Line 5

Airport Railroad

Line 6

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

Sinbundang Line

If you’re lost, seek out a nearby Tourist Information Center (marked on our Maps & Guides) or one of the helpful tourist information guides, easily recognized by their red uniforms with an “i” of them.

Bukchon Hanok Village

National Folk Museum

Authentic German cuisine in the heart of Seoul

o Se ul r Fo all W ss

tre s Sajik Park Sungkok Art Museum

Sin Yetchatjip

New York Wholistic Care Ilpumdang B3 02-733-4949

Delicious Japanese shabu shabu and sukiyaki hot pot dishes made using only the finest quality, freshest ingredients

Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Gwanghwamunjip

Seoul Museum of History

Embassy of the United States

The first branch in Korea exclusively for international residents

The British Embassy

CHONGDONG THEATER (MISO)

Vabien Suites

Royal palaces

10:00 am

The Gwanghwamun area’s biggest attractions are its royal palaces. Located right at the end of Gwanghwamun Square B2, Gyeongbokgung Palace B2 is the most monumental and probably the easiest to visit and explore. To experience the epitome of Korean traditional architecture, though, head to Changdeokgung Palace D2 , with its spectacular, UNESCO-registered gardens, the most beautiful in Korea. Lunch Plan A Insa-dong/Bukchon

01:00 pm 02:00pm

Many international visitors head to Insa-

02:00pm

Another neighborhood worth exploring is Jeong-dong B4, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, where you’ll find lovely old churches, schools and diplomatic compounds. Also part of Jeong-dong is fascinating Deoksugung Palace B4, with its eclectic Korean and Western architecture. Dinner

05:30 pm

Jilkyungyee

Hotel SunBee Sun Gallery

Bundang Line

Line 4

Jungang Line

Line 5

Airport Railroad

Line 6

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

Sinbundang Line

Center Mark Hotel

Restaurants & Bars Shops Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Jongno Tteokjip O'NGO

Tteuran

National Souvenir Center

Nagwon Arcade (4F, Cinematheque / Seoul Art Cinema)

IT'S SKIN

La Mer g - il hwa Tae

Tea Museum

Dolsilnai

Insadong Jukumi VOOK's Gallery

Nami Island Culture Tour Information Naminsa Open Theater

Seung Dong Presbyterian Church Manseok Dakhanmari Jongno Tower (Top Cloud 33F)

(3F)

Insa-dong Culture Plaza

Euljiro 3-ga Stn. M

Euljiro 1-ga Stn.

The Plaza

Done Zone

Bandi & Luni's 4

IT'S SKIN

Myungbo Art Hall Myeong-dong

Gwanghwamun Square

07:30 pm

In the evening, stop by Gwanghwamun Square B2 , which is lit up at night. The area around the square is one of Seoul’s most interesting, with palaces, museums, performing arts venues and shops.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Plan B Jeong-dong

Fraser Suites

Seoul Art Center

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo

Jonggak Stn.

YP Books

EXPLORING GWANGHWAMUN

Tongin Store

Chilgapsan

Ohyangjokbal

dong (see Map 2 ), a bustling neighborhood of galleries, workshops, antique stores, teahouses and Korean restaurants. For a truly memorable experience, though, spend your afternoon exploring the quaint alleyways of the Bukchon neighborhood (see Map 3 ), home to Seoul’s largest collection of Korean-style hanok homes.

Line 9

Line 3

Yetchatjip (2F)

Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul

Cheonggyecheon Stream

City Hall Stn. M M

Sanchon

Insan Inhae

Beoldeok Kalguksu/ Nolboo Budaejjigae & Cheolpangui

Gyo-dong Elementary School

Dubu Maeul Mera Hatt Park Yeong-suk Yo

Haejeong Hospital

Seoul Plaza

Seoul Museum of Art

Line 2

Crown Hotel

Sudo Pharmacy

Dolsilnai

Seoul Global Center City Hall

Deoksugung Palace

Nagwon Arcade

Saint Augustin

Jeong-dong

Seodaemun Stn. M

Insa Art Center Mokin Gallery

You can arrange a stay at a Buddhist temple.

National Art Museum, Deoksugung

Line 8

Ssamzigil

Gong Art Space

Kyobo Cheongjinok Jongno Book / The.Me Danseongsa Tower Tapgol Park Kumho Art Hall Centre M Jongno 3-ga Stn. Gwanghwamun Stn. M M M Jonggak Stn. Ilmin TomaTillo Dongwha Duty YP Books Museum Free Shop Seoul Theater (Jump) Cine Cube of Art Seoul City Cine Core Tour Bus Cheonggye Plaza

Cinema Jeong-dong (Music Show Wedding)

Balwoo Gongyang (5F)

Insa-dong Jogyesa Temple

KT Olleh Square Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo

Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art (Dawon)

Hotel Aventree Jongno

Indie Space

Gyeonghuigung Palace

Gallery Artside

Templestay Information Center A2 02-2031-2000

Jongmyo Shrine

Ssamziegil

Gwanghwamun Square

OSULLOC

Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Anguk Stn.

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History

Jogyesa Temple (Central Buddhist Museum)

Farmers Barn

Somerset 1 Palace Seoul 2

Changdeokgung Palace

Line 1

Ikseon-dong

Tobang

g on n a-d tio Ins rsec e Int

Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center B3 02-773-3131

Cheondogyo Central Temple

The Moon Bird Thinks of the Moon Only

Bonjuk

Changgyeonggung Palace

National Palace Museum of Korea (Gogungddurak) Seoul Selection Bookshop Gwanghwamun

Tosokchon

Dongnimmun Stn.

www.shinhan.com Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center

Chon

Ma Vie

Miss Lee Café Gana Art Space

Bukchon Art Hall

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum

Gyeongbokgung Stn.

Nwijo Sagwanamu

Metro

Secure and comfortable accommodation with inspiring views of www.somerset.com Gyeongbokgung.

Jeongdok Public Library

Hwanghakjeong (Archery Practice Site)

Independence Gate

Dimibang Doriking

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Gwanghwamun Art Hall (PAN)

Min's Club

Seochon

Somerset Palace Seoul C2 02-6730-8888

Tongin Market

Coupon Affiliates

Bärlin C2 02-722-5622

Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Stn.

Ang

Bukchon

The Korea Tourism Organization offers Korea Pass, a prepaid card that offers not only plenty of benefits at tourism-related sites, but can also be used as a transportation card. See www. koreapass.or.kr for details.

Change your smile in a single day

Samcheong-dong

Korea Pass

IP&I www.ipidc.co.kr C2 02-735-1135

Shops Museums & Galleries

Tip

Restaurants & Bars

Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc.

Map 2 INSA-DONG

Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Lost?

Once known (for reasons unknown) as “Mary’s Alley,” Insa-dong started off as an alley of antique dealers and is now one one of Seoul’s major centers of Korean traditional art and culture.

TomaTillo C3 (T. 02-734-9225) An outstanding Cali-Mex restaurant with branches here and in Itaewon and Gangnam.

Farmers Barn D2 (T. 02-743-9233) Top-of-the-line handmade hamburgers with organic ingredients for a fresh taste.

Gwanghwamunjip B3 (T. 02-739-7737) One of the most famous kimchi stew (gimchi jjigae) restaurants in the area.

Ohyangjokbal B4 (T. 02-753-4755)

Some of the best jokbal (boiled pig’s trotters) in Seoul. Comes with rice-cake soup, too! Near Seoul City Hall.

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo C3 (T. 02-738-1769) Barbecue-broiled eel and pork chitterlings in a retro interior. Near Jonggak Station (Line 1).

The.Me C3 (T. 02-2075-6611) They don’t serve many side dishes here, but the Korean beef they serve is top-rate. On the third floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

Cheongjinok C3 (T. 02-735-1690) They’ve been doing haejangguk (Korean hangover soup) since 1937. First floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

EXPLORING INSA-DONG Galleries tour

Insa-dong is comprised of one main street and the alleyways that branch off from it. Along the main street you’ll find most of Insa-dong’s galleries and shops, while the restaurants and teahouses can be found in the alleyways. Major galleries to check out are the Kyung-in Museum of Art C2 (lovely teahouse here, too), Insa Art Center B2, Kong Gallery B3, VOOK’s Gallery C3 (great if you like books) and the fascinating Mokin Gallery B3, dedicated to Korean totemism.

Tosokchon B2 (T. 02-737-7444) Seoul’s best-known purveyor of samgyetang (ginseng-chicken soup). Always full. Not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.

10:00 am

Lunch Exploring Insa-dong’s past

M Sguane

YMCA

KT Global Store

04:00pm

12:30 pm 02:00pm

Cine Core (JUMP)

Akbari Pocha

Nagwon Arcade D2 is Asia’s largest collection of musical instrument shops. The nearby restaurants are cheap but good.

Dinner

Kumkang

Jewelry Market

Insa-dong has its fair share of history, too. In an alley just off the main street is historic Seung Dong Presbyterian Church C3 (1902), and in another is the grand, Art Nouveau central temple of Cheondogyo C1 (1921), an indigenous Korean faith. Near Insa-dong are Unhyeonggung Palace D1 , a gorgeous 19th century Korean villa well worth exploring, and Tapgol Park D4, Seoul’s first Westernstyle park. Nagwon Arcade

Bon Bibimbap

Dubu Chon

Beer Pong Bosingak Belfry

Tapgol Park

05:30 pm

Ssamzigil

07:00 pm

A neighborhood with a neighborhood, Ssamzigil B2 is a culture and shopping complex comprised of four floors of stores, restaurants and workshops. It’s home to about 70 shops in all. Recommended ones include Galpi (books), Sky Lake (cosmetics made with Korean traditional herbs), Chinjeolhan Hyeonja-ssi (Korean cuisine/ broiled fish) and Bukchon Sonmandu (Korean dumplings). In the basement there is also a branch of Gogung, the famed Jeonju bibimbap restaurant.

Buddhist cuisine, this famed eatery does great vegetarian cuisine, with Korean traditional dance performances in the evening.

Min’s Club C1 (T. 02-733-2966) Fusion is the name of the game here, both in terms of the architecture (a fusion hanok from the 1930s) and the cuisine (fusion dishes mixing Korean and Western flavors).

Toetmaru Doenjang Yesul C2 (T. 02-739-5683) Run by poet/photographer Park Jung-sik, this lively place specializes in gang doenjang, a very thick, rich soy bean paste stew.

Balwoogongyang A2 (T. 02-2031-2081) Specializing in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

Dubu Maeul C2 (T. 02-735-9996)

Sanchon C2 (T. 02-735-0312)

The taste of Korean traditional homemade tofu and pungent, healthy cheonggukjang soybean stew.

Run by a Buddhist monk and expert in Korean

Maps & guides

43 In Samcheong-dong and Bukchon, traditional hanok homes, aged stone walls, contemporary galleries, and fashionable cafés intermingle in a relaxed and cheerful atmosphere.

A good way to see the city on the cheap is Seoul City Tour Bus (www.seoulcitybus. com), where a single ticket brings you to many of the city’s top destinations. You can get on and off as many times as you like.

Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc.

De miel Yongsusan

Korea Banking Institute

Sosonjae

Samcheong-dong Office Dal 1887 Baedongbaji

Samcheong Sujebi

Gallery Kong

El Casa

Cheongsujeong

Tea Garden 5 (Cha Masineun Tteul)

Brazil Embassy Jinsun Book Café

UUL National Art Museum, Seoul (open 2013)

Dugahun

Dongsipjagak

Mugsh Donna

www.seoulselection.com

Have a cup of coffee and read about Korea’s culture, history and literature, as well as useful living information.

-gil

Culture Station for Tourists

Seoul Selection Bookshop A4 02-734-9565

Line 6

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

Sinbundang Line

Han Sangsu Embroidery Museum

Byeolgung Sikdang

Jae-dong Elementary School

Home of Former President Yun Boseon

Romanée Conti

Rossini AYASOPHIA Wedding dress C3 070-7518-1088

Andrew’s Eggtart

www.aya-sophia.com | TUE-SUN AM 10:30-PM 8:00 This wedding shop is hidden away in an alley near Bukchon’s Jeongdok Library deals almost exclusively in wedding dresses. Prices are quite reasonable, just $200 to $600. You can try them on before making up your mind, and prices are all marked. Reception dresses, wedding shoes, and wedding accessories can be purchased at reasonable prices, too. For the time being, when you buy a dress, they’ll throw in an accessory for free.

The B Beautiful Store Savina Museum

Anguk Stn

Seoul Selection Bookshop

09:30 am

Begin your exploration at Seoul Selection Bookshop A4, where you can browse our wide selection of English language books on Korea. 31 Gahoe-dong

10:30 am

Bukchon Hanok Village C2 is Seoul’s largest collection of Korean traditional hanok homes. There’s a lot to see up here, but the best views are to be had at 31 Gahoe-dong C2, an inclined road lined with

lovely Korean homes. One home, the Simsimheon C2, is open to the public (10,000 won, includes cup of plum tea). Map available from tourist information booth in front of Jeongdok Public Library B3.

Lunch

11 Gahoe-dong

12:30 pm 02:00pm

Explore 11 Gahoe-dong D2, another cluster of hanok homes, some of which have been converted into workshops and galleries such as the Gahoe Museum D2 and the Han Sangsu Embroidery Museum D2. Just past 11 Gahoe-dong is picturesque Choongang High School D2. Also near 11 Gahoe-dong

is Ahnkook Zen Center D2, which hold Zen meditation classes in English every Saturday from 2:30pm to 4pm. Samcheong-dong

04:00pm

You’ll find a ton of cafés, eateries and quaint boutiques in Samcheong-dong B2/C1. If you’re feeling so inclined, you can follow the road all the way to Samcheong Park C1, a very nice place to stroll about in spring.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES De miel c1 (T. 02-720-1307) Serving fusion Italian cuisine, this place has been hot lately with the young crowd.

Ibis

Myeongdong Dongkas

Krispy Aritaum Kreme

Those with a “healthy living” kick can check out Sosonjae, which does Korean cuisine prepared with herbs.

BeansBins C1 (T. 02-736-7799) Great waffles and coffee from all over the world in Samcheong-dong.

Byeolgung Sikdang B4 (T. 02-736-2176) This place does some of the best cheonggukjang (a hearty soybean stew) in the city.

Serves up some great potato dough flakes.

OSULLOC Myeongdong Theater

IT'S SKIN

Hat's On

Zen Hideaway

Spicy Color Etude House A Land The Saem Savoy Hotel Beaute Etude House

Skin Food

Everysing

Taj

Jungang Line

Line 5

Airport Railroad

Line 6

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

Sinbundang Line

Shops Museums & Galleries Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Myeong-dong Catholic Center

Roxy

10:00 am

Any proper exploration of the Myeong-dong neighborhood should begin at Myeong-dong intersection A4, home to some wonderful examples of early 20th century architecture.

11:00 am

Walking along the main street towards Eulji-ro and you’ll pass the bustling Lotte Young Plaza A2, Lotte Avenuel A2 and Lotte Department Store A2. Get your credit card ready.

01:00 pm 02:00pm

Across from the Lotte Department Store A2 is where the real fun begins. You’ll find the big

international name brands along the main drag, but check out the back alleys for more reasonable priced mid-range brands. Myeong-dong Cathedral

05:00 pm

At the east end of Myeong-dong, sitting atop a hill overlooking the commercialism, is Myeong-dong Cathedral C3. Built by French missionaries in 1898, the beautiful Gothic church also played an important role in Korea’s democratization movement of the 1980s. Dinner

Myeong-dong at night

Beautiplex

TONYMOLY The Saem Tabby

5 4

Hugo Spa

7 3

ong Stn.

Myeong-d

Sejong Hotel

ASTORIA HOTEL (BELLA COOLLA 63) / 1 Namsangol Hanok Village / Korea House / Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater Chungmuro Stn., Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Chinatown B3 It won’t rival San Francisco’s Chinatown anytime soon, but it’s still a great place to score good Chinese food.

Myoung-dong Kyoja C2/C3 (T. 02-776-7384, 02-773-3364) This Myeong-dong institution has been serving kalguksu (handmade noodles) and dumplings since 1966.

Bella Coolla 63 D4 (T. 02-2275-7473)

06:00pm

A New York-style Italian restaurant, located in Astoria Hotel, is a great choice if you are in the mood for pasta or steak.

07:00 pm

Donburi Myeong-dong D2 (T. 02-2235-1123)

Just wander around in take in the lights. And the crowds! If you’re a Korean Wave fan, check out Everysing B4 (T. 02-778-9850), a shop selling merchandise of actors and singers with SM Entertainment.

Myeong-dong Shooting Range

IT'S SKIN

BBQ Premium Café

State Tower Namsan

Myeong-dong Intersection

Roem

SPAO

Onedang Gamjatang

EXPLORING MYEONG-DONG

Samilro Changgo Theatre

M-Plaza Astoria Hotel D4 02-2268-7111 Located in Chungmuro, the Astoria (Seoul Global Culture & Tourism Center) is one of Seoul's most historic hotels and home to one of its finest Italian Beaute restaurants. Grandma's Nakji Etude House Sunshine Byeollan Platform Place Gogung Halbaejip

Migliore

Jongno Bindaetteok

More shopping!

Dononburi Myeong-dong

Chungmu Kimbap Parking in Plate Myoungdong Kyoja Fugetsu

Aritaum

The Korea Post

Shinsegae Dept. Store

Samcheong Sujebi B1 (T. 02-735-2965)

Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral

Myeong-dong Intersection

Lunch

YWCA

Unesco House

Chinatown

Retail therapy

Line 4

Teenie Weenie WhoAU / TOPTEN10 8 Seconds MISSHA Ttarojip Baekje Samgyetang Laneige

Ggong Si Myeon Gwan

Sosonjae C1 (T. 02-730-7002)

Bundang Line

Suyedang's exquisite Hwakwaja snacks are come in a bewildering variety of beautiful colors and shapes—the best thing, though, is that they are made from natural recipes that use only Korean traditional plant-based ingredients and taste every bit as good as they look. They make ideal New Year's gifts if you can resist eating them yourself.

Gong Cha

Din Tai Fung

Bank of Korea

Bukchon Changwoo Theater

Line 9

Suyedang Hwakwaja A2 02-726-4094 | www.suyedang.com

Coin

Gogi Juneun Naengmyeonjip

Line 3

Café Droptop

Hwanggeumal Sikdang

Ulim Fair Trade Shop

Metro Hotel

Myeongdong Sundubu

NANTA THEATER IT'S SKIN

Reminis Cake

Line 2

TNGT

Namwon

The Constitutional Court of Korea

Kepco

Lotte Young Plaza Noon Square Level 5 (5F)

Seoul Guest House

Line 8

Restaurants & Bars

Skin Food

Bukchon Guest House

Seoul Royal Hotel

Arirang

Japan Cultural Center

EXPLORING SAMCHEONGDONG AND BUKCHON

Lotte AvenueL

Line 1

70s Radio Pub

Dong Lim Museum

DooRoo Café

Gallery NaMu

g:ru

Lotte Dept. Store 10 Corso Commo AvenueL Wongudan Shrine 2

Korea Exchange Bank

Metro

Neobijip

Lotte Hotel Pierre’s Bar (35F) Mugunghwa (38F)

Westin Chosun

Ahnkook Zen Center

Donmi Pharmacy

Cha Hyang Gi Tea Shop Café 4M 2 AYA SOPHIA

Bukchon Gamasot Seolleongtang

Seoul Selection Bookshop

Rak-Ko-Jae

Gyedong Mananim

Gamgodang

Stori

Airport Railroad

Bukchon Art Museum

Joseon Gimbap Sophia Guest House

Modern Shikdang

KEB Plaza

Bukchon Hanok Village (11 Gahoe-dong)

Dahmsojung

dodo& Coffee & Dessert

CineCode Sonje

Kumho Museum of Art

Jeongdok Public Library

(LARC)

Africa Museum of Art

Gallery Hyundai

Gahoe-dong Catholic Church

Blacksmith's Oven-baked Pizza

World Jewellery Museum

Keun Giwa House Art Sonje Center

Line 5

Euljiro 1(il)-ga Stn.

Gahoe Museum

Byeolgung-gil

YIDO

Make My Rainbow TNGT

Hwang Saengga Kalguksu

Choongang High School

Mirandoisa Last Avenue

Jungang Line

SKT Tower

2 SUYEDANG

Simsimheon

Soowarae

Hakgojae Gallery

Bundang Line

Chung

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Silkroad Museum Chez Simon Bukchon Hanok Village (31 Gahoe-dong) 8 Steps

Kukje Gallery

Line 3 Line 4

Korea Foundation Cultural Center

Books Libro

Cook'n Heim Bukchon Museum

Chataigne

The National Folk Museum of Korea

Line 9

2 1

BeansBins

Sam che ong don g-gi l

Dalhangari

Line 8

Hanbit Media Park

Duty-free stores in Seoul include the Shinsegae (Map 4), Lotte (Map 4), Walkerhill (Gwangnaru Stn., Line 5), Shilla (Map 5) and Dongwha (Map 1). See maps for exact locations.

Metro

Romanée Conti

Flora

Line 2

Duty-Free Shops

Gah oe-d ong Tour

Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Line 1

Tip

Beonsachang

Second Best Place in Seoul

Coupon Affiliates

The Board of Audit and Inspection of Korea

Owl Museum

Maple Tree House

Seoul City Tour

Shops Museums & Galleries

Samcheong Park

Tip

Restaurants & Bars

Map 4 MYEONG-DONG

Unde rgrou nd Sh oppin g Cen ter

Map 3 SAMCHEONG-DONG / BUKCHON

Frequently compared to Tokyo’s Shinjuku neighborhood, Myeong-dong is a district of neon lights, electronic billboards, department stores, high-end retail shops, good food, and lots and lots of people.

Japanese-style rice bowls, with fresh wasabi brought straight from Japan.

Gogi Juneun Naengmyeonjip B3 (T. 02-772-9991) There are few nicer meals than grilled meat

followed by naengmyeon (Korean chilled noodles).

Baekje Samgyetang B2 (T. 02-776-3267) A Myeong-dong institution, this place has been serving samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) for over 40 years. Very popular with the Japanese tourist crowd.

Ttarojip C2 (T. 02-776-2455) Sure, this place looks like it’s going to fall down, but it’s been serving some of the city’s best ttaro gukbap (rice and meat-broth soup) forever. Get the modeumjeon (an assortment of fried patties), too.

Chungmu Gimbap C3 (T. 02-755-8488) A simple gimbap served with pan-fried spicy squid and diced radish kimchi, or kkakdugi.

Ggong Si Myeon Gwan B3 (02-778-8863) A more affordable and casual dim sum restaurant. If you order xiaolongbao, a small serving of jajangmyeon (Chinese black bean noodles) comes free.

Maps & guides

45 Dongdaemun is Seoul’s fashion mecca—within the sprawling Dongdaemun Market are countless shopping malls, specialty shops, and clothing designers producing cutting-edge designs for reasonable prices.

Map 5 DONGDAEMUN A

EXPLORING DONGDAEMUN

Daehangno

Ewha Womans Univ. Dongdaemun Hospital Two Hotel

Doosan Art Center 1

Pharmacy Area

Somunnan Wonjo Dak Hanmari Used Book Broiled Fish Alley Alley Monyeo Kkoma Gimbap Wedding Goods Market

Gwangjang Market

n Stn aemu Dongd

Heunginjimun (Dongdaemun Gate)

Jongno 5-ga Stn.

Pakgane

Dongdaemun General Market

Cheonggyecheon Stream

Best Western Hotel

Doota

Cerestar IT'S SKIN

Park of Seoul Hunlyunwon

U:US

Ala-Too Café

Ojang-dong Naengmyeon Alley

Dongguk Univ.

u-ro hungm

Grand Ambassador hotel

M Samarkand Café Central Asia Dongdaemun Ala Do Village History & Culture Park Stn. Darkhan M

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church

National Theater of Korea Shilla Hotel (Duty Free) Mt. Namsan

Dinner

09:00pm

Shopping!

10:00 pm

Seoul Club / Banyan Tree Club & Spa

Sindang

If you’d like to take in the views from N Seoul Tower (www.nseoultower.co.kr), there are plenty of ways up the mountain, including buses, a cablecar and your own two legs.

Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Alley

Ewha Womans Univ.

Bock Sung Gak Chinese LA CELTIQUE Restaurant Club

Lee Kang Un Cuperm (3F)

Line 2

Line 9

Line 3

Bundang Line

Line 4

Jungang Line

Line 5

Airport Railroad

Line 6

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

Sinbundang Line

Shops Museums & Galleries

Arthouse Momo

lucycato Café de Chocolatier

Kosney

M M

Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Beer O'Clock Ark Shinchon

Krema

SushiEn

Minto

Brothers Hyung Jae Galbi Queen Live Hall

Tea Caddy Lee Kang Un Cuperm (4F) Hyundai UPLEX

Ewha Womans Univ. Stn

Sinchon Stn.

ZEN Hair Salon Ewha Branch 2

Designers with an international education in styling

Sogang Univ. TAF (Total Art Festival Café and Bar)

EXPLORING SINCHON Exploring Korea’s historic universities

10:00 am

One of Korea’s most respected institutions of higher learning, Yonsei University A1 was founded by American missionaries in the early 20th century. Stroll around the pleasant campus, taking in the romantic, ivy-covered period architecture. After that, take a cab to Ewha Womans University C1, the world’s largest women’s university. The campus, also established by American missionaries, is absolutely gorgeous. Lunch

Noon

Have lunch. You’ll find plenty of restaurants in front of the universities. Sinchon is rife with delicious and cost-effective eateries and bars perfect for the miserly spender.

Shop

02:00pm

If you’re female and you like shopping, you’ll love the area around Ewha Womans University C1, where you’ll find everything for your fashion and beauty needs.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES SushiEn A1 (T. 02-365-3223)

Home to many restaurants specializing in Uzbek, Russian and Mongolian cuisine. Most don’t look like much, but they do good food that is easy on the wallet, too.

Sindang-dong Tteokbokki Alley C2 The Sindang-dong neighborhood has an alley of restaurants that do Sindang tteokbokki, a dish of panfried rice cakes cooked in a spicy red pepper sauce with noodles, dumplings and other yummy things.

Pyeongyang Myeonok B2 (T. 02-2267-7784) Famous for naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles in a chilled turnip and beef broth. North Koreanstyle meat platters like obokjaengban and jaeok, and their fist-sized dumplings can’t be missed, too.

Cheolgil Wang Galbisal B1 (T. 02-332-9208) Great BBQ meat and delicious stew.

Hakata Bunko E1 (T. 02-338-5536) Tasty Japanese-style ramen noodles are available around the corner from the Far East Broadcasting Co.

Castle Praha E2 (T. 02-334-2121) A taste of the Czech Republic in Korea, this Czech-style beer hall houses a microbrewery (run by a Czech brew master).

405 Kitchen E2 (T. 02-332-3949) A pleasant Hongdae café with three spaces— hall, sedentary table room, and terrace—serves brunch by day and wine at night.

Vinyl E1 (T. 02-322-4161) This tiny drinking establishment serves up various cocktails in plastic bags with straws and has an atmosphere all of its own.

Little Terrace D2 (T. 02-333-3310) Little Terrace, or more precisely, “This Little Terrace Has Mesmerized Me,” is a fifth-floor wine bar that serves affordable wines in a romantic atmosphere. Oh yeah, and it’s got a terrace with nice views.

Nightime

Dance the night away

When the sun goes down, Hongdae heats

Hakata Bunko

Sanwoolim Korean-Style Bar Lydian Sky High

Modern Design Museum

Hongik Univ.

Gopchang Jeongol

Gyahaha

Noise Basement (NB2)

Sangsu Stn.

Didim Hall

Jammers (B1F)

Reggae Chicken

Toni & Guy Sk@

Jenny's Bread

Café Suda

Alternative Space LOOP

Far East Broadcasting Co.

The Post Theater

Coffee Prince

Live Club Bbang

Salon de Badabie

Good gyros and souvlaki.

Unit Saab dd

Platform Place

Hooper

Vinyl

Indifan I’m Camper

Gap Denim Studio

D'Avant

ley Al Gogos2 NOK Bread 05 Lot Rolling Hall FF ing TA k After A Land r Evans Lounge Pa Ronin El Bliss Design Museum aA F.ound Store Ska2 Fell+Cole Club Crack Shamrok Rock & Roll

Margarita lley Splash (1F) Mural A Tinpan Taehwa Plaza Harlem (NB1) Tang Inn Bar 75015 Gam Salon Café Kkum (B1) Bowling Center Myoung Wol Gwan Bar Exit Chili Cha Cha Cellar15 (1F) 405 Kitchen 2 Ice Waffle Eunhasu Dabang Lomography Korea Pomponnette Ullim (2F) Spot eathai Café Street Brownbreath Playground Little Terrace IAN Café (3F) Old Rock SoundHolicity Etone B2 070-7583-6431 Greek Joy Theater Louis Vins (4F) Snow Spoon Zari This dessert café, run by Hwakwaja snack maker Suyedang, Dan Hana serves up a mouthwatering range of cakes, ice cream and Castle Praha Zero Paul & Paulina Chie The Café de Solar City drinks, not to mention Hwakwaja themselves. Freebird Ding Dong Bar Daq Club Auteur Guest Chloris Tea Live Club DGBD Cocoon i-gong M2 House Mimine & Coffee Q-vo OFF°C Multicultural Hello Kitty Cafe Danimgil Makgeolli Pub Anseong Mart Museum Mapo Lifelong 1300K Café Eire Seoul Art Space – Learning Center Cuba Wang Seog40 Tora-b Ziller Zone La Chou Chou Sapience 7 1300K Club Mansion Hongik Galbi Pedestrian-Friendly Trickeye Bar Da Street Publishing Alley Café Danchu Museum (B1F) Ganggang Sullai A Land Storage & Co.

Pollala

Style Nanda

et re St

Dialogue in the Dark

Zen Hair Salon C1 02-362-4125

Grand Mart

Caffe Zudy

Mixxo Atreon

Hongik Univ.

Yes apM

Central Asia Village B2

Greek Joy D2 (T. 02-338-2100)

o de Ro

Hyundai Dept.Store

Need a quick bite while you’re shopping? This is probably the most convenient place to do so. Clean and delicious.

Cheolgil Wang Galbisal

Geek Live House

. on Stn

Zen II

Sinch

IT'S SKIN

Geopum qb Sanbong Hwarogui

Sanwoollim Theater Sukara Café (1F)

Yale Town 1

East of Dongdaemun History & Culture Park C2 you’ll find still more shopping centers,

All of Rock (AOR)

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

This area is famous for its restaurants specializing in jokbal , or marinated pig feet sliced and served with lettuce leaf and kimchi.

Midnight

Wholesale market

y) le Al

Migliore

Line 8

Sinchon Train Station (Gyeongui Line)

Doksuri Building

Restaurants & Bars

Filmforum (700m)

Line 1

nt s ra ck u ra sta nT e ai t R Tr ea (M

Metro

RECOMMENDED EATERIES

The Hongdae area is best known for its nightlife, but it’s a pretty cool place in the day, too. Hongdae is one of Seoul’s most artistically vibrant neighborhoods. Check out Mural Alley D1, an interesting experiment where young artists have been communicating with the masses since 1993. You’ll find plenty of other street art in the area, and then there’s always KT&G Sangsang Madang E2, a privately run cultural complex that not only hosts exhibits and performances in a variety of genres, but also provides support for local artists. Another gallery to check out is Pollala B1, a collection of toys by pop artist Hyeon Tae-jun. If buying art is your thing, go on Saturday and stop by Hongdae Free Market D2, where local artists come to sell their works. It’s a good place to pick up some beautiful arts and crafts. The Hope Market D2, held on Sunday, is more of a traditional flea market. After you’ve done some shopping, stop by A Land D2, where you can pick up fashion from up-and-coming local and international designers. After A Land E1, meanwhile, sells well-handled goods and post-season fashion for even better prices.

Jangchung-dong Jokbal Restaurants B2

After you’ve taken in the history and culture, it’s time to get busy shopping. Dongdaemun Market is home to several massive fashion malls, including Doota Tower B1, Migliore B1 and Pyeonghwa Market A1. The shops here stock goods by younger, smaller designers.

Coupon Affiliates

M Stn. M

Two of Seoul’s most hip college town areas, Sinchon and Ewha cater to all students on a tight budget, but still looking for fashion, food, and a little fun.

Yonsei Univ.

Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc.

Getting Up Mt. Namsan

Jangchung-dong Jokbal Restaurants

Pyeongyang Myeonok

Loving Hut

Restaurants & Bars Shops Museums & Galleries

Tip

Map 6 SINCHON / EWHA

Hyang Music

Cheong Gye Cheon Museum

Chungmu Art Hall

Dongdaemun Dongdaemun Design Plaza —under construction History & Culture Park

Hyundai Residence

·· Nuzzon

08:00pm

Dongdaemun History & Culture Park C2 is a landmark piece of urban landscaping designed by famed British architect Zaha Hadid.

Designer Club

Good Morning City

Jungbu Market

Dongdaemun History & Culture Park

Jungang Market

New Pyeonghwa Dong Pyeonghwa Market Market Da Chae

Migliore

Hello apM Megabox Dongdaemun

Bangsan Market

Western Co-op Residence Hotel Darkhan Café

E-mart

up. Hongdae is the heart of Korea’s indie culture, and the music and dance clubs here are the most popular in Korea.

Daylight

Exploring Hongdae’s art scene

Doota Food Court B1

IT'S SKIN

Pyeonghwa Market

Euljiro 4-ga Stn.

Dongmyo Flea Market Cheong Pyeonghwa Market

Begin your exploration of Dongdaemun at its namesake, historic Dongdaemun Gate C1, the old eastern passage to Seoul. Built in 1869, the imposing gate and its stone walls are fitting tributes to the glory of the Joseon Dynasty.

yo Stn. Dongm Dongmyo Shrine

M M

07:00 pm

Dongdaemun Gate

Mt. Naksan

EXPLORING HONGDAE

although these tend to most active at night, when the wholesalers do their trade. Come here anytime between 10pm and 3am, and you’ll find buyers from all over Korea and even overseas searching for deals on bulk purchases. The energy is electric.

With an abundance of nigiri, roll and even fruit options, rotating sushi bar SushiEn is one of Seoul’s only boastworthy Japanesestyle sushi joints.

Metro

Line 1

Line 8

Beer O’clock A1 (T. 02-333-9733)

Line 2

Line 9

Run by Canadians, has awesome beer.

Line 3

Bundang Line

Line 4

Jungang Line

Airport Railroad

Tea Caddy C3 (T. 02- 313-7523) To regain your calm and class, stroll down to Tea Caddy, where teas from the world’s most prominent tea producers wait to regale you with a symphony of scents and flavors.

lucycato Café de Chocolatier C2 (T. 02-362-0050) If you’re back in Ewha, find some chocolate happiness with lucycato, stocked with coffee, waffles, cake and, above all, chocolate!

Line 5

Line 6

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

Sinbundang Line

V-Hall Club Vera

02-363-4253 Hair in its natural state

Lotte Cinema

BBQ Premium Café

Angel-in-us Coffee

Hotel Seokyo

Hongik Univ. Stn.

Hongdae Free Market & Seoul Live Music Festa Every Saturday, the playground in front of Hongik Univ. holds an art and crafts market featuring work by local artisans. If you’re into dancing and live music, Hongik Univ.-area clubs host the Seoul Live Music Festa every last Friday of the month.

Bobo Hotel

Prism Live Hall

Zoo

Mixxo

Tip

Gallery Zandari Youngbin Wedding Hall

Hair & Joy B3 02-363-4253

Dooriban

NANTA THEATER

Tony Moly

Jongno Bindaetteok

Hapjeong Stn. Kyusoodang Wedding Hall

Bulgogi Brothers

Choseon Barbecue

Map 7 HONGDAE

The Hongdae (Hongik University) neighborhood is Korea’s indie culture center. On a weekend, this place is full of young people looking to have a good time in its many clubs and bars.

Maps & guides

47 Itaewon is Seoul’s multicultural mecca, well-known for its excellent restaurants, exciting nightlife, and cosmopolitan clientele. Once the entertainment district for US military personnel from the nearby Yongsan Garrison, the neighborhood has grown increasingly diverse and upscale in recent years. The main road of Itaewon is full of tailor’s shops and clothing stores.

Map 8 ITAEWON The Baker's Table A El-Grecos Magpie Two Hands Takeout Drawing T.G. Brunch Café Burger Craftworks Burn Phillies Taphouse & Bistro – The Concorde BAO Noxa Haebangchon (Taste of Thailand, Sukhumvit 2F) Lazy Sue 1

Gyeongnidan

SUSHI BAR EARL Buddha's Belly Le Saigon Standing Coffee Mi Madre(2F) Jungang Gyeongnidan Powwow Café O'HANA Seoul Waffle Factory Café T8 RES2GO Butter Cup

EXPLORING ITAEWON

Shopping, eating and a bit of culture

The National Theater of Korea Tip Hangang River The Hangang River is more than something to look at. Experience the river’s charms via a Hangang cruise (02-3271-6900), some yachting at Seoul Marina (www. seoul-marina.com), or by water taxi (www.pleasantseoul.com)!

Metro

Restaurants & Bars

Line 1

Line 8

Shops Museums & Galleries

Line 2

Line 9

Line 3

Bundang Line

Line 4

Jungang Line

Hotels Clubs & Theaters Etc. Coupon Affiliates

Line 5

Airport Railroad

Line 6

Gyeongui Line

Line 7

Sinbundang Line

Thunder Burger

Grand Hyatt Hotel Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art

2 1

New York Wholistic Care E3 02-792-2296 Beautiful Health, NY Wholistic Care (Gwanghwamun Branch B4, p6 730-9896)

DISTRICT C2 02-749-3249

Le Saint-Ex C2 02-795-2465

Reilly’s Taphouse & Restaurant Gecko's Gallery Through Garden

Chungsachorong

02-792-2296 www.nywc.co.kr

Delicious and authentic French food in Itaewon

Taco Chili Chili

Mt. Namsan N Seoul Tower

An Unparalleled Entertainment Experience, DISTRICT Offers Its Guests an Inviting Atmosphere, Sophisticated Modern Cuisine and World Class Entertainment In a Single Package. Three Venues, One District, Every Night. (Prost Pub&Grill, Glam Lounge, Club MUTE)

Embassy of Belgium

Valentine II

Life is just a cup of cake

Dominic Hangangjin Stn./ Blue Square (NEMO)

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Daylight

In recent years, Itaewon has experienced a great deal of gentrification. Accordingly, it is now home to some of Seoul’s best international restaurants. Don’t forget to explore the back alleys, too, where you’ll find some great eateries, especially behind the Hamilton Hotel C2. Head to the area around Seoul Central Mosque E3 to find the heart of Korea’s Muslim community. Around the mosque are some halal eateries and other shops. If you’re in the mood for shopping, Itaewon is the place for large-size clothing, leather goods, bonded goods and tailored suits. 143 E. Napoli C3 (T. 02-976-3404), run by a former film art director, is one of the best places to pick up tailored fashion. Itaewon is also home to the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art F1. Architecturally splendid and with a wonderful site on the slopes of Mt. Namsan D1, the museum holds one of Korea’s biggest collections of traditional and contemporary art. Check out the Louise Bourgeois spiders in the courtyard, too.

Santorini C2 (T. 02-790-3474) Offers fine Greek food such as souvlaki and gyros made by a Greek chef.

Petra A3 (T. 02-790-4433) Mean Arab cuisine, especially Jordanian food.

style pub with all the usual pub food.

Suji’s A3 (T. 02-797-3698) One of the most highly regarded brunch spots in Seoul.

Berlin A3 (T. 02-749-0903) Classy wine bar overlooking Noksapyeong Station.

Nashville C3 (T. 02-798-1592)

A vibrant bar overlooking Itaewon Station.

This place—an Itaewon institution since it opened in 1982—does some great burgers and other American-style comfort food.

Gecko’s Garden C2 (T. 02-790-0540)

My Thai China C2 (T. 02-749-9287)

Gecko’s Terrace C3 (T. 02- 749-9425)

A popular night spot behind the Hamilton Hotel. It has a particularly nice outdoor atmosphere.

Buddha’s Belly C2 (T. 02-796-9330) Try for exotic Thai food.

Le Saint-Ex C2 (T. 02-795-2465) Delicious and authentic French food in Itaewon.

Chinese and Thai cuisine in exotic, welldesigned surroundings. Owned by a famous Korean entertainer.

Two Broz. E3 (T. 02-790-0610) Handmade hamburgers with a classy flavor at friendly prices.

La Plancha C2 (T. 02-790-0063) Restaurant, Lounge, Garden.

Between D2 (T. 02-795-6164) écumé C3 (T. 02-3477-7378) The new landmark in Itaewon—Enjoy Gallery A restaurant that serves Italian cuisine. La Cigale/ contemporary Italian cuisine in Seoul. Seoul D'oro IP Club Buddha's Belly Itaewon Elementary Baby Guinness Montmartre 2 Rococo The most stylish lounge and restaurant. Hotel Boutique 19st. Neal’s Yard C3 (T. 02-794-7278) School Muntaro Foreign B1 Lounge Club Vin Hotel Kodak Seoul Dessert specialty store. Scrooge Pub Tartine C3 (T. 02-3785-3400) Vino Bombomb Exchange Naked Bar & Grill The Embassy of Color Studio Old Stand Flying Pan Booth Pakistan Moghul Tartine Bakery & Café serves authentic Ankara Picnic D3 (T. 02-793-2550) Seoul Exchange Blue 3 Alley Pub GLOBAL Real Estate and delicious pies and other desserts made Macaroni Center Chadoljip District They serve Turkish kebabs and ice cream. in our own kitchen by hand. High Street Market 4 Market Pattaya Ali Baba (Boom Bar, 2F) Hamilton Hotel My Thai China Nightime Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro A1 Itaewon Global Party time Sushi Bar Earl A1(T. 02-790-3447) No Cheil Communications Les Deux Plats Hillside Wood ksa (T. 02-794-2537) La Plancha Village Center Between Villa Sortino Tony's Sushi Bar Earl in Itaewon is a culinary stock 1 pye Itaewon has long been famous for its Korea’s only foreign-owned brewpub unveils on Cup&Bowl All That Jazz Aussie vanguard that proves that great things can Bean's Village gS Pier8 Pieroth Wines Helios The Frypan its latest seasonal beer: Jirisan “Moon Bear” 3 3 tn. nightlife. The more upscale clubs and Bar come in smaller packages. Wang Homestead écumé Santorini Two Broz. India Pale Ale. Petra What the 2 bars tend to be along the main drag, but CasAntonio (2F) Sortino’s Thai Coffee 19st. Neal’s Yard Rocky Montain Thai Berlin Bon et Beau Book? E2 (T. 02-790-7043) Vin Vino Eden Pottery Amigos (1F) Tavern you’ll find plenty of great places in the Itaewon Stn. Moghul C2 (T. 02-796-5501) Orchid Foreign Jubilee The 1st Avenue A great place to have a glass of wine. Happy Pancho's Itaewon alleys, too. For a little piece of the old, preAlley Market Exchange Seoul Chocolatier Mind Body Seoul Indian/Pakistani restaurant within a tranquil hour is every Wednesday, 6pm−midnight, Korean Red KT Fire Arcade gentrification Itaewon, check out “Hooker Caliente Tom N Toms All American Booth garden. Station with 50% off on glass wine. Ginseng (Itaewon Plaza) Kim's Kervan Main Street Gate Innisfree Diner Hill,” a collection of bars and clubs on Cheong-kwan-Jang Boutique Dakorner Flow Peter Choi Ankara Picnic Skin Food Sortino’s E3 (T. 02-797-0488) a hill just south of the main street. Also All American Diner B3 (T. 02-790-0411) Hwangso Suji's Gecko's Gukje Arcade Dillinger's Moon Night 3 Seoul Central Mosque nearby is “Homo Hill,” where you’ll find One of Seoul’s most popular Italian Famous for its American-style breakfasts. Foreign Maeul Bar Seoul Terrace Cakeshop NICE Itaewon restaurants, this Itaewon eatery does great Maharaja bars and clubs catering to Seoul’s LGBT Restaurant Le Saigon Exchange Gallery Golmok Club After War Memorial of Korea Market Hamilton pasta and pizzas. 3 Alley Pub C2 (T. 02-749-3336) Center community. 143 E. Yongsan Electronics Market Tailored Shirts Jonny Baebae Hive J's Closet A popular expat hangout, it’s a EuropeanLa Casera EST 1894 Napoli Shopping Dumpling The Wolfhound District Al-Saba KT Foreign Salam Food Mart B C D Embassy of 3 A Tartine C3 Nashville Bakery Bull and Jaseng Hospital of the Republic of 02-3785-3400 M Galleria www.tartine.co.kr Barrel Oriental Medicine the Philippines Tip National Hyundai Dept. Store Ttukseom Resort Stn. My Old Asia Delicious Pies and Dept. Museum of Brunch and other Taking the bus out of Seoul Authentic Yongsan-gu Office JYP Store Salsa Club Top Korea American Pies wonderful desserts If you’re heading out of Seoul Entertainment & Brunch Mad for Garlic (Yongsan Art Center) all hand made in Aura Jankura Artspace Gallery M 9am to 11 pm by bus, you have two options. our own kitchen Hannam Stn. Cube Studio / Café 365 Days a year Apgujeong The Hyundai Hangang Express buses (gosok beoseu) Voted: 02-3785-3400 Jamwon Grill Tea M Stn. Ooma follow the highways, and are Best in the Universe Middle School Pitch Club Ellui M Therapy Bapseong Apgujeongrodeo Stn. Crown Hotel usually faster.Museum Inter-city buses National Club Volume Jungsik Sockspill Dunkin Donuts take non-highway routes. of Korea Apgujeong-dong Jang Cheon Art Hall dang Pierrot Strike Express buses are boarded Club Answer 1 Hangang A Twosome Place by 51K CGV 1 at Express Bus Terminal (for School Dosan Take Hotel Riviera Seoul Park Forever21 Samwon Garden destinations in the Gyeongsang Food Park Urban Noon Col•l•age+ provinces and Gangwondo. If you get here early, you can check out Give your credit card a workout in nearby Around Sample Garosu-gil Doo Boo Space *C EXPLORING GANGNAM Avenue Juno Cube Secret Nail do) and Central City Terminal Horim Art Center The Corner One Gangnam C1 010-3080-3669 Entertainment the aquarium, one of Korea’s largest (closes Apgujeong-dong B1/C1, Seoul’s ritziest (for destinations in the Jeolla Garosu-gil 1 Meet stylist Shin Sun-ju, a Chu Myeonok Amapola [ho:ya] and more La Casa at 8pm, but admission ends at 7pm). The neighborhood—the “Beverly Hills of Seoul” provinces). fluent English speaker who Take the subway to Sinsa Station (Line 3) 10:00 am Cheongdam Morning stroll at spent five years in the UK Brown breath LARC Perché Listen Super Megabox Cineplex and its 16 screens are even has its own Rodeo Drive. The word and walk to Garosu-gil B1, the bohemian, working for prestigious salons, Stn. Seonjeongneung M Lounge LG Fashion Pop-up Store including Vidal Sassoon and very popular, especially on the weekends. “upmarket” doesn’t even begin to describe tree-lined street with restaurants, cafés and Toni&Guy. Yoondang Art Hall Platoon Kunsthalle Hongmi Dakbal There’s always the shops, of course, and if Galleria Luxury Hall, the ultra-high-end What better way to work off breakfast than boutiques. This is a good place to get lunch. M Gangnam-gu M Atelier Hermes IndiePlus you’re hungry, you’ll find more restaurants department store just up the road, with with a pleasant stroll at Seonjeongneung C2, Bongeunsa Temple Jamsil Area Office Stn. Club Museum of here than you can count (including the food several exclusive European brand stores and a set of royal tombs dating from the 15th and Intercontinental Johnson House Double Eight M Sinsa Stn. Korean 02:00pm Seoul COEX court). a whole lot more (see p13). 16th centuries. The wooded pathways are a ASEM Tower Shop till you drop Embroidery Gui Daehak Pro-Soy Crab M natural refuge in the heart of the big city. in Apgujeong-dong Imperial Palace Hak-dong Stn. Mango Six KEPCO Hotel M Jamwon Stn. 04:00pm 11:00 pm Baekam Ramada Hwogo Jip Bongeunsa Temple Nightlife COEX Club Art Hall Hotel Nonhyeon Stn. M Octagon Samjung M Olympic Park Seolleung Want to see the contrast between old and Time for some clubbing! From COEX, Oakwood Hotel Park Hyatt Seonjeongneung Park The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul Premier Hotel new in its most extreme? Get on the subway, make your way to Cheongdam-dong C1 to 2 M Stn. Seonjeongneung Best Western Premier head to Samseong Station (Line 2), and walk rub shoulders with some of Seoul’s most Banpo Stn. M Samseong Stn. Jamsil Stn. Gang Nam Hotel Hotel The Designers Bamboo to Bongeunsa Temple D1, founded in the conspicuously wealthy youngsters and Grand Jamsil Sports Urban Hive House Club Heaven InterContinental Dulwich world-class DJs. Club Ellui D1, one of the 8th century. The view of the graceful Korean Complex Ogada Central City(Shinsegae Dept. Store) Seoul Parnas College M buildings, with the glittering skyscrapers of largest in Asia, is a good place to start and Novotel Ambassador Gangnam Spa G M M Lotte Dept. Store SEOUL Sinnonhyeon Stn. M Gangnam looming just beyond them, really maybe even finish. The area is also full of Club Eden LG Arts Seolleung Stn. Center The Ballerina Sapyeong Stn. Renaissance Hotel Seoul leaves an impression. Be sure to visit on chic wine bars and lounges—try Ark Lounge Kukkiwon M Who Loved Gangnam Let's JW Marriott Buddha’s Birthday, when it hosts a paper C1, Lound C1 or Club Circle Lounge C1. Lotte Hotel World Seokchon Lake a B-boy Kyobo Tower Sinbanpo play Yeoksam Stn. Lotte World (West) lantern exhibit. M Stn. Charlotte Theater Gangnam Stn. Area M M M Caffe Bene Chicken n´ Chips Selfbar Gangnam Finance Center Seokchon Express Bus Evispomme 200 Brauhaus THINGS TO DO Lake (East) Terminal Stn. M Dental Hospital Shy Bana 06:00pm Mixxo M Gangnam Stn. Brooklyn the Burger Joint COEX Java City Yomenya Goemon R&R at Spa G D2 (T.02-549-2073) 3 M Hanti Stn. Seorae Village Seorae Global Viva Luce Korea Ginseng Corp. has opened a spa utilizing Village Center From Bongeunsa, walk to COEX D2, one of Gangnam, literally “south of the river”, is Seoul’s relatively new and affluent The National the power of red ginseng. neighborhoods south of the Hangang River. Here you’ll find upscale shopping, trendy M Asia’s largest shopping malls. You could Bangbae Middle Library of Korea School M M cafés and bars, big shopping malls and one of Korea’s most popular amusement parks. spend hours here walking around; many Itaewon Foreign Bookstore

Smokey Saloon

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Map 9 GANGNAM AREA

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Map 10 JAMSIL AREA

Do wake from dreaming and see the Buddha. You should know death is not an end but another start. Do realize the formless truth that has the start and the end. “When the golden phoenix has swallowed a flying dragon, cicadas sing in chorus in fire.”

http://english.visitkoreayear.com www.koreapass.or.kr/en

English language assistance may be limited. 112 English language may be limited. 119 See the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade’s website for a thorough list. Police Fire Foreign embassies in Korea

Do wake up from dreaming

This government campaign website has details of great tourism offers. Pre-paid tourism card offering discounts nationwide.

First stop for all things tourism-related Tourism, accommodation, events, dining and much more Answering most of your questions on Seoul in English and various other languages Korea Tourism Organization Seoul Tourism Organization 120 Dasan Call Center

253 Soraepogu

255 Hogupo

254 Incheon Nonhyeon 252 Wolgot

259 258 Songdo Yeonsu

754 Sinjung-dong 755 Bucheon City Hall 756 Sang-dong 757 Samsan 758 Gymnasium 759 Gulpocheon

Bucheon Stadium 752 753 Chunui

Kkachiul 751

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Ta ps eo k So ng sa n Eo ryo ng Go nja e Hy jo a Gy e Go ong Of vern gi P fic m ro e en vin t c N Sa ort ial em he rn al Do ng o

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-PRENATAL CARE, PART 2- The Third Trimester

The Development of New Life By the third trimester, the baby is virtually as fully developed as a newborn, both in size and organ function. The pregnant woman gains a lot of weight, usually between 10 and 15 kg. During this process of weight accumulation, her body is exposed to a considerable amount of stress. As the baby grows, expansion and pressure in the belly inevitably cause stagnation of Qi and blood. As a result, many women experience low back pain, numbness, swelling in the legs, nausea, shortness of breath, and constipation. Additionally, as the baby extracts huge amounts of nutrients from the mother’s blood, less Yin and blood will be available for the mother’s body. The relative predominance of Yang causes the body to heat up. For women displaying these symptoms, heat-producing foods, such as creamy and spicy meals, chicken, ginseng, ginger teas, and the like, should be reduced or avoided. Too much heat also seems to affect the health of the newborn, causing heat conditions like skin rashes, eczema, and, later on in life, certain types of allergies. Korean traditional medicine offers a variety of treatment options during pregnancy. Particularly towards the end of pregnancy, acupuncture is widely used for relief of pain due to back and pelvic strain as well as carpal tunnel syndrome. It is also used for general relaxation and leg swelling. For complications related to labor and delivery such as delayed labor or breech, acupuncture and moxibustion are acknowledged and often advised by conventional OB/GYN practitioners, as research has proven their efficacy in several studies. Certain herbal medications can help ease digestive conditions like constipation or nausea, and others can speed up the labor and delivery process. I am still impressed when I see labor begin shortly after an acupuncture session, resulting in a healthy birth several hours later. This reminds me that pregnancy and childbirth are very natural processes which, in most cases, do not need great interventions of any kind. Sometimes they only require a small amount of stimulation at the right time. However, in recent decades, Caesarian sections have become commonplace, especially in countries like Korea. The reason for this trend is justified only partly from a medical standpoint. It also reflects the tendency of the younger generation to avoid, if possible, any kind of pain or inconvenience. Of course, this is made possible by changes in medical philosophy, as practitioners willingly give in to such requests. Modern Western medicine, with its indisputably wondrous achievements, is continuously penetrating deeper to increasingly manipulate the natural processes of life. One need not look far to find surgically enhanced faces and bodies or products of genetic manipulation. Part of human destiny is overcoming adversity and becoming strengthened. We overcome obstacles such as the painful birthing process, strenuous learning processes, failures in work and business, painful injuries and diseases—and eventually we even overcome our inefficient bodies through death. Perhaps the level of satisfaction and happiness we attain in life is more influenced by the cumulative hardships that we have overcome than most of us realize.

Written by

MASTER SUBUL SUNIM Visit Korea Year Korea Pass

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U Ju ijeon ng gb an u H g e un gs eo Ui n je Ci ong ty b Ha u ll Ui jeo ng bu B e om go l Ho ery on g Ba lgo k

Oriental medicine 49

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http://world.1339.or.kr Trained medical personnel on call 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. English spoken Emergency Medical Information Center http://english.visitkorea.or.kr www.visitseoul.net

214 Seonjeongneung

212 Apgujeongrodeo

211 Seoul Forest

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LRT Uijeongbu

Suin Line

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Airport Railroad

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SEOUL METRO

Seoul of zen

Director of Anguk Zen Center and Dongguk University’s International Seon Center Translated by Boo Ahm (Song Soo-kyong)

DR. RAIMUND ROYER (raimundroyer@jaseng.co.kr) is Korea’s only “Western” Oriental medical doctor and the medical director of the Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine’s International Clinic (www.jaseng.net). [ Map 9 C1]

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STARBUCKS TEACHES LOVE AHEAD OF WHITE DAY BARISTAS INTRODUCE WORLD OF COFFEE TO MULTICULTURAL STUDENTS

he ten baristas of Starbucks Korea’s “Love Team” visited the multicultural alternative school Seoul Dasom School on March 10 to provide a special class on latte art ahead of White Day. Besides Starbucks Korea coffee ambassador Choi Yong-seok, five pairs participated in teaching the class, including baristas Lee Byeong-yeop, Heo Jeong-ae and her husband, and Kim Seong-nyeol and her brother Kim Yong-jun. They provided lessons to about twenty students of Junior Class 2 of the school’s Tourist Hotel Department on a number of coffee-related skills, including latte art. Lee Byeong-yeop said, “Since we did the program with our spouses, it seems the joy and sincerity doubled. I will share the love I’ve formed through my precious time with Starbucks with even more neighbors.” Miss

Jang Se-yeon, a student who attended the class, said, “I think my study of coffee was more interesting because I learned directly from Starbucks employees. I want to study hard and learn even more about coffee.” Seoul Dasom School is Korea’s first public alternative school providing high school-level education for multicultural teens. The students of its Tourist Hotel Department study coffeemaking once a month. It plans to introduce its students to the diverse world of coffee and the barista profession through the end of the year.