Vacation in Seoul N
K
a
i
m
m
O
h
k
a
-
h
e
e
e
H y e h w a
S t a t i o n
S w i m s u i t
s h o p p i n g
G o i n g s - On A r o u n d T o w n
JULY 2013
T r av e l
I
Culture
I
Maps
ISSUE NO. 120
ￌ 5,000 / US$ 4.99
www.seoulselection.com
ISSN: 1599-9963
Contents NO. 120
10 Exploring Seoul
광고 문의 T r a v e l
I
C u l t u r e
I
Summering in Seoul
M a p s
14 Seoul travel bits
No-haggle pricing
16 Gangnam Spotlight
광고가는 정찰제입니다 To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com
Gangnam Tourist Information Center 18 Travel
South Sea Jewel: Namhae 20 Korea travel bits
SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFER! Huge reductions on domestic subscriptions to SEOUL magazine!
22
History walks
Hanok, Photography, and Tea
• 6 months: KRW 30,000 → KRW 14,000 • 12 months: KRW 60,000 → KRW 25,000
23
Seoul sub→urban
Hyehwa Station 24
Seoul stories
International subscription rates: •6 months: US $30 •12 months: US $59 To subscribe, call (02) 734-9567 or email sense@seoulselection.com.
July 2013
Daeo Bookshop
FREE postage for international subscribers
25
Book review
The Voices of Heaven & Eerie Tales from Old Korea 26
Dining & nightlife
Boyangsik
SUBSCRIPTION EVENT
29
The first five people who sign up for a oneyear subscription to the magazine this month will receive a special gift: one of the latest perfumes released by Perfumelifer.
Talk of the town
Moving Out? 30
Shopping
Swimwear Trends for Summer 2013 32
Interview
Kim Ok-hee of Yeouido Tteok Bang 53
Seoul of zen & Oriental medicine
Healing Your Soul and Body Perfumelifer
•
www.perfumelifer.co.kr This Korean niche perfumery sees perfume as an art—if you see perfume as just another fashion statement, they ain’t for you. Perfumelifer is all about individual sensibility-based creativity. Try Seoul Selection Bookshop in the Samcheong-dong area.
34
Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more
Useful coupons 38
Expat community page
[ Map 3 A4] T. 02-734-9565 www.seoulselection.com/bookstore
For the latest Seoul-related news and events, follow Seoul Selection on Facebook and Twitter! And don’t forget to sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, look up past SEOUL articles, and browse through our on-line bookshop at www.seoulselection.com
Seoul Selection
43
Maps & guides
QR codes with gray borders directly link to individual Google Maps. QR codes with blue borders directly link to individual websites.
@seoulselection T r a v e l
I
C u l t u r e
I
M a p s
About the Cover Mark Randall Wuscher and his son Owen relax in the Baeksasil Valley (p12) Photographed by RAUM Studio Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designers Lee Bok-hyun, Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor Daisy Larios Translator David Carruth Contributors Daniel Gray Merissa Quek Robert J. Fouser Daisy Larios
| Raimund Royer | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Felix Im
Doyun Kim
Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise —without the written consent of the publishers. SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (book@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space. Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul. For details, see http://magazine.seoulselection.com.
JuLY at a glance
suggested seoul itineraries Day 1
2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] . Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ]. Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest. Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ]. Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].
Take Some Time Off
Why leave the city this summer vacation when Seoul has got so much to offer? >p10–13
Day 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ]. Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1].
Explore Namhae, a Hidden Korean Gem Inspiring scenery and luxury accomodations combine for a wonderful weekend away. >p18–19
Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].
Day 1
Prepare for the Swim Season
Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2]. Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong.
Get the lowdown on swimsuit shopping in Seoul. >p30
Get Dirty in Boryeong
3 days / 2 nights
Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ]. Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses. Party like there’s no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdamdong [ Map 9 C1].
Day 2
The Boryeong Mud Festival is Korea’s best known summer party. >p20
Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park. Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch. Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ] , including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2]. Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats. Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].
Discover the Joy of Tteok Korea has a wonderful rice cake tradition. Learn about it with Yeouido Tteokbang. >p32
Day 3 Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr). Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3] . Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3] .
The Big Pink © Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival
Rock Out July and early August is Korea’s rock festival season. Metallica is coming to town, too. >p34
Learn about Korea’s Modern History The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History is the place to learn about the Korean Miracle. >p14
Exploring Seoul
Summering in Seoul Spend your summer vacation without leaving the city limits Written by Felix Im Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo
Banyan Tree Club and Spa
반얀트리 클럽 앤 스파 서울
The Banyan (T. 02-2250-8000) is situated along Mt. Namsan, near Myeong-dong, Itaewon, and Donguk University. Offering new meaning to the word “relaxation,” it is divided into four sections: the club, the hotel, the festa, and the outdoor facilities. The hotel is equipped with a Moon Bar on the top floor, a dining room with a terrace on the third floor, and a crystal ballroom in the lobby. The club offers a spa, fitness facilities (including an indoor and an outdoor gym), an indoor swimming pool, and even a juice bar. Kids are often seen running around with towels wrapped around their wet heads, making it a perfect place for a family getaway, right in the heart of Seoul. The festa is exactly what it sounds like—fun. It provides
golfing facilities, karaoke rooms, a bar, a bistro, and a garden terrace. The Oasis, an outdoor pool with a poolside bar, is the main attraction here. The Oasis is used for several private parties throughout the year and adds a sense of playful decadence to the calming atmosphere. In the winter, the pool is replaced by an ice rink. The outdoor facilities are for the athletes. It has a course for golf, courts for tennis and basketball, and a field for soccer or football. The facilities are conveniently located neart the Oasis—a hard day’s exercise can end in a hard day’s play. www.banyantreeclub.net Take Bus #2 from Chungmuro Station 충무로역 (Line 3, 4), Exit 2.
11
Outdoor cabana, Oasis © Banyan Tree Club and Spa
For a truly Korean night on the town If you’re looking for something different from the typical hotel—something truly Korean—then a couple of nights at a hanok guesthouse should provide the ideal experience. There are no beds here, only mats that can be rolled out onto the floor. The doors are wooden-framed and slide open. There are no shoes allowed inside any of the rooms. Mostly located among the various nooks of Bukchon Hanok Village, these houses offer the perfect taste of traditional Korean life, so be prepared to use a communal kitchen and lounge—maybe even share a bathroom. You can usually choose between different-sized rooms to accommodate your party. Singles usually start from KRW 40,000, with doubles going anywhere from KRW 70,000 to over KRW 100,000.
Simply and modestly named, Bukchon Guesthouse 북촌게스트하우스 (T. 010-6711-6717) is a small and humble square of rooms centered around a cozy central garden. Tea Guesthouse 티게스트하우스 (T. 02-3675-9877) is just across the street and offers a relatively similar structure, with a magnificent garden of beautiful flowers. Not to mention the tea is great! Sophia Guesthouse 소피아게스트하우스 (T. 02-720-7220) is closer to Samcheong-dong, with a nice tree on the grounds. If you’re looking for a slightly more lavish experience, try Rak-Ko-Jae 락고재 (T. 02-342-3410). It feels more like a miniature palace than a guesthouse, but you pay for it, with rooms starting at KRW 250,000.
Sophia Guesthouse
Rak-Ko-Jae Swimming pool © Banyan Tree Club and Spa
Sophia Guesthouse
Goings-on around town
PREVIEWS+
ANSAN VALLEY ROCK FESTIVAL T Daebu Sea Breeze Theme Park, Ansan-si, Gyeonggi-do July 26—28 3-day pass: KRW 260,000 T. 1588-0688 http://valleyrockfestival.com Ansan Station 안산역 (Line 4), Exit 1
The Ansan Valley Rock Festival 2013 is ready to take the republic by storm, featuring global rock emperors and mind-boggling local indie bands during its three-day run from July 26—28. The international lineup includes Cure, Skrillex, NIN, The xx, FOALS, Vampire Weekend, Fun, Hurts, Polyphonic Spree, DIIV, Coheed & Cambria, and Yellowcard. Lately, Stereophonics, My Bloody Valentine, and celebrated guitarist Steve Vai have thrown their hat in the ring. Formerly featured in the remote town of Jisan, the Valley Rock Festival has moved its venue this year to Daebudo Island in Ansan, southwest of Seoul.
Let's Rock Summer is the time to rock with Koreaʼs biggest music festivals. The Ansan Valley Rock Festival, Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival, Jisan World Rock Festival and Supersonic draw top international and Korean acts. Rock legends Metallica are coming to town, too! T
METALLICA, MUSE
INCHEON PENTAPORT ROCK FESTIVAL
Jamsil Sports Complex Aug 17—18, 1pm—11pm 2-day pass: KRW 250,000 T. 02-2176-5717 Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6, 7 http://citybreak.superseries.kr
The Hyundai Card Super Concert 19 Citybreak is bringing together such legendary bands as Metallica and Muse on the same stage. Metallicaʼs fast tempos, instrumentals, and aggressive musicianship placed them as a founder of thrash metal. The American band has won nine Grammy Awards and has had five consecutive albums debut at number one on the Billboard 200. Muse, from Britain, are known for their energetic and extravagant live performances and their fusion of many music genres, including space rock, progressive rock, alternative rock, heavy metal, classical music, and electronica.
T Int'l Business District, Songdo, Incheon Aug 2—4 3-day pass: KRW 165,000 T. 02-3775-1588 http://pentaportrock.com Int'l Business District Station 국제업무지구역 (Incheon Line), Exit 1
The month of rock in Korea would not be complete without the Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival, which is looking much more impressive than previous yearsʼ nu-metal-heavy lineups. Slated for Aug 2—4, the 2013 edition will feature Fall Out Boy, Testament, Steelheart and four British rock bands such as Suede, Mamas Gun, Glasvegas and the Big Pink. This year, the venue has moved to Songdo International City, which can be accessed conveniently via Seoul’s metropolitan subway system and intercity bus routes.
ENGLISH BOOKING
T http://ticket.interpark.com/global
MUSEUMS Made in Changsin-dong Seoul Museum of History Thru Jul 21 Free T. 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]
Folk Painting— Land of Imagination Horim Art Center Thru Sep 14
Brazil Music Festival IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul 7, 4pm
Adults: KRW 8,000, Students: KRW 5,000 T. 02-541-3523 www.horimartcenter.org [ Map 9 C1]
KRW 35,000—75,000 T. 02-2658-3546 http://brazilmusicfestival.tistory.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Open Door, Korean War and Korean Modern Architecture Seoul Museum of History Thru Jul 21
London Cello Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul 1—2, 8pm
Free T. 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]
KRW 40,000—150,000 T. 02-2650-7481 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Royal Court Embroidery National Palace Museum of Korea Jun 25—Sep 1
Seoul Philharmonic Orchestra— Russian Night Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul 5, 8pm
Free T. 02-3701-7500 www.gogung.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]
KRW 10,000—60,000 T. 1588-1210 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
The 3rd DMZ International Music Festival Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul 10, 8pm KRW 20,000—100,000 T. 031-6982-6986 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Vladimir Tolkachev Big Band Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul 17, 8pm KRW 30,000—100,000 T. 02-3463-2466 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Little Singers of Monaco Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jul 28, 2pm KRW 20,000—90,000 T. 070-7434-4502 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Korean National Ballet— Tchaikovsky Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Jun 28—30 KRW 5,000—80,000 T. 02-587-6181 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
Royal Philharmonic Orchestra & Charles Dutoit Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Jun 29, 7pm
The 3rd Ballet Festival Korea Seoul Arts Center Thru Jul 13
KRW 50,000—250,000 T. 1577-5266 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
KRW 30,000—70,000 T. 02-580-1300 www.bafeko.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
DANCE
MUSICALS
8th Physical Theatre Festival in Seoul 2013 Daehangno Arts Theater Jun 24—Jul 7 KRW 25,000 T. 02-764-7462 www.physicaltheater.co.kr Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 2
T High School Musical Blue Square Jul 2—Sep 1 KRW 60,000—120,000 www.bluesquare.kr Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 2
T The Musical Chicago National Theater of Korea Jul 6—Aug 31 KRW 40,000—120,000 T. 02-577-1987 www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]
T Elisabeth Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Jul 26—Sep 7 KRW 30,000—140,000 T. 02-6391-6333 www.musicalelisabeth.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.
THEATER T The 21st ASSITEJ Korea International Summer Festival Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Jul 18—28 KRW 20,000—30,000 T. 02-745-5863 http://assitejkorea.org [ Map 1 B3]
DISCOUNT
JISAN WORLD ROCK FESTIVAL T Jisan Forest Resort, Icheon-si, Gyeonggi-doAug 2—4 3-day pass: KRW 250,000 No. 12 local bus from Icheon Bus Terminal 이천버스터미널
T. 02-644-1200
www.jisanrockfestival.co.kr
35
COUPONS
Don’t miss out on our special coupons exclusively for overseas visitors! Enjoy endless savings!
Iconic rapper Nas and punk pop band Weezer are playing the Jisan World Rock Festival, which will be held Aug 2—4 in Icheon, southeast of Seoul. Catch them with other headliners like the Dandy Warhols, Switchfoot and Placebo. Funk masters Jamiroquai, led by frontman Jay Kay, will be a highlight on the list of performers that includes Korean rock acts like�Sinawe, Crying Nut, No Brain, and Lazy Bone. Heating up the event are DJs of global acclaim, including DJ Shut Da Mouth, DJ Conan, Bagagee Viphex 13, and Big Ear Crew.
10% BUSINESS TYPE: NAIL
Manicures & Pedicures: 10% discount
2,000 won Discount BUSINESS TYPE: SPA 2,000 won discount on entry
10% BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC
10% discount on all items + Free herbal tea
SUPERSONIC 2013 T Aug 14—15 Olympic Park 2-day pass: KRW 176,000 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3
T. 02-6002-7577 (ext. 8)
www.supersonickorea.com
10%
BUSINESS TYPE: COSMETIC
5% discount on purchases of 50,000 won or more 10% discount on purchases of 100,000 won or more
5%
The SuperSonic Festival 2013, with the Pet Shop Boys, New Trolls, and Two Door Cinema Club sharing the stage alongside Korean acts, will take place on Aug 14—15. PSB will bring its electric production to the first day of the festival, while electro-new wave pop duo Capital Cities will heat up the scene. Leading the pack of local artists is Cho Yong-pil, a veteran pop musician who is currently sweeping the charts with Hello, his first album in a decade. Other local bands include 10 cm, Dickpunks, and Jaurim.
BUSINESS TYPE: POTTERY 5% off household pottery
10% off accessories
· Product categories: Computers & tablets / Cameras / Mobile phones / Hi-Tech audio & speakers / Accessories / Apple devices
· Period of validity: July 1 ~ 31, 2013 · This coupon cannot be used in combination with other promotions. · This coupon cannot be used to purchase accessories made by Apple. www.concierge.co.kr
5%
BOOKSHOP
BUSINESS TYPE: BOOK STORE [See p.5] 5% off all books * 02-734-9539
10%
BUSINESS TYPE: KOREAN TRADITIONAL SNACK
10% discount. *Other discount coupons cannot be used at the same time
Dates & venues below are subject to change.
10% BUSINESS TYPE: RESTAURANT
2013 Miryang Summer Performing Arts Festival Miryang Theater Village, Gyeongsangbuk-do Jul 24—Aug 4 T. 055-355-2308 www.stt1986.com, Take shuttle bus at Miryang Intercity Bus Terminal.
CONCERTS 2013 Beautiful Show—Beast Live Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park Jul 20—21 KRW 77,000—99,000 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3
World Hip Hop Festival in Korea Line Up: Busta Rhymes, The Game, Tha Dogg Pound, Ray J KINTEX Jul 27—28 Admission: TBA Daehwa Station 대화역 (Line 3), Exit 3.
Busan International Rock Festival Samnak Riverside Sports Park,
Busan Aug 2—4 Free T. 051- 501-6051 www.rockfestival.co.kr It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Busan by KTX.
T 2013 Shinhwa Grand Finale— The Classic in Seoul Gymnasium No. 1, Olympic Park Aug 3—4 KRW 66,000--143,000 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3
KOREAN MUSIC Arirang National Gugak Center Jun 26—30 S: KRW 30,000, A: KRW 20,000, B: KRW 10,000 T. 02-580-3300 www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to maeul bus No. Seocho 12 or green bus No. 4429.
Yeourak National Theater of Korea Jul 3—27 KRW 30,000 T. 02-2280-4114 www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]
KOREAN THEATER T World Beat VINARI VINARI Theater, Cine Core Thru Jul 31 KRW 40,000—60,000 www.worldbeatvinari.com [ Map 2 D4]
ROYAL PALACE EXPERIENCE Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung Palace Changdeokgung Palace Thru Oct 20 Reservation: palacemoonlight@gmail.com [ Map 1 D2]
ART EXHIBITIONS Kim Jong-Hak—77th-Birthday Exhibition Painting
Gallery Hyundai, Gallery Hyundai New Space & Dugahun Gallery Thru Jul 7 Free T. 02-2287-3500 www.galleryhyundai.com [ Map 3 A4]
Jeong-Hyun Kim—Survival Game Contemporary art
Song Eun Art Cube Thru Jul 16 Free T. 02-3448-0100 www.songeunartspace.org [ Map 9 D2]
Mark Garten, Cia Park UN press photo
KIPS Gallery Thru Jul 18 Free T. 02-542-7710 [ Map 9 B1]
Yanagi Muneyoshi Collection of craft and paintings
10% discount on all menu items
10% BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE
10% discount on all seats *Please make a reservation on the official ‘Miso’ website or by phone at least 3 days before the performance. *When payment is made on the spot after reservation, only people who present the coupon can avail themselves of the discount.
5%
BUSINESS TYPE: PERFORMANCE 5% discount on on-the-door ticket sales
Admission for 10,000 won per person BUSINESS TYPE: EXHIBITION, EXPERIENCE
Valid for adults and children in groups of up to four people, until July 31
5%
BUSINESS TYPE: CULINARY TOURS & COOKING CLASSES 10% discount
Maps & guides Map 1 GWANGHWAMUN AREA
The Gwanghwamun area, named for the landmark gate that marks the entrance of historic Gyeongbokgung Palace, is Seoul’s “old” downtown and where you’ll find Seoul’s enchanting royal palaces as well as other historical and cultural sites, such as Insa-dong, Bukchon, and Jeong-dong.
TIP A
Lost? If you’re lost, seek out a nearby Tourist Information Center (marked on our Maps & Guides) or one of the helpful tourist information guides, easily recognized by their red uniforms with an “i” of them.
B
C
Cheongwadae (Office of the President)
Samcheong-dong
1
METRO M
Line 1
M
Line 8
M
Line 2
M
Line 9
M
Line 3
M
Bundang Line
M
Line 4
M
Jungang Line
M
Line 5
M
Airport Railroad
M
Line 6
M
Gyeongui Line
M
Line 7
M
Sinbundang Line
Cheongwadae Sarang Chae
Pak No-su House
Tongin Market
ou
Se
Seochon
or t lF alls sW
res
KFEM Headquarters Daelim Contemporary Art Museum
IP&I www.ipidc.co.kr C2 02-735-1135
Gyeongbokgung Stn.
New York Wholistic Care
Dongnimmun Stn.
2
Bärlin C2 02-722-5622
3
Ssamziegil
Embassy of the United States
3
Nagwon Arcade
3
Kyobo Cheongjinok Book Indie Space Kumho Art Hall Centre Gyeonghuigung Gwanghwamun Stn. M Seoul Global M Palace Dongwha Duty Free Shop Ilmin Center YP Books Bibigo Cine Cube Museum Seoul City of Art Tour Bus Cheonggye Plaza Cinema Jeong-dong National Museum of Morden 4 Shinhan Bank (Music Show Wedding) 6 and Contemporary Art, Seoul Global Center Deoksugung
Independence Gate
4
The first branch in Korea exclusively for international residents ,
Vabien Suites
4
City Hall
Jeong-dong
Seodaemun Stn. M
Deoksugung Palace
Nagwon Pungcheon Jangeo Geura Chamge Megitang Danseongsa M M
Jonggak Stn. Parunsik
Jongno 3-ga Stn.
Cine Core
Cheonggyecheon Stream
Euljiro 3-ga Stn. M
MM
Euljiro 1-ga Stn.
Seoul Plaza City Hall Stn.
Seoul Museum of Art
6
Jongno Tower (Top Cloud)Tapgol Park
The British Embassy
CHONGDONG THEATER (MISO)
M M
Myungbo Art Hall
The Plaza
Myeong-dong
Ohyangjokbal
Goryeo Samgyetang
Bringing together some of Korea’s top musical talent, Music Show Wedding is a comic tale told in the universal language— music.
M
Gwanghwamunjip 5 Ilpumdang
Seoul Museum of History
Jongmyo Shrine
Unhyeongung Royal Residence
Insa-dong Jogyesa Temple
KT Olleh Square
Secure and comfortable accommodation with inspiring views of Gyeongbokgung. www.somerset.com
Samujeong
Seosomun Apartments
Restaurants & Bars
EXPLORING GWANGHWAMUN 10:00 am
The Gwanghwamun area’s biggest attractions are its royal palaces. Located right at the end of Gwanghwamun Square B2, Gyeongbokgung Palace B2 is the most monumental and probably the easiest to visit and explore. To experience the epitome of Korean traditional architecture, though, head to Changdeokgung Palace D2 , with its spectacular, UNESCO-registered gardens, the most beautiful in Korea.
Plan A Insa-dong/Bukchon
Anguk Stn.
Gwanghwamun Square
Sejong Center for the Performing Arts
Authentic German cuisine in the heart of Seoul
Lunch
Changdeokgung Palace
M
Somerset 1 Palace Seoul 2
M
National Museum of Korean Contemporary History
Art Museum
Change your smile in a single day
Royal palaces
Bukchon Art Hall National Palace Museum of Korea (Gogungddurak) Seoul Selection Bookshop Gwanghwamun
Hwanghakjeong (Archery Practice Site) Sajik Park
Music Show Wedding B3 02-736-8289
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Tosokchon
1
Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center B3 02-773-3131
Changgyeonggung Palace
Jeongdok Public Library
Daeo Bookshop
2
www.shinhan.com Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center
Bukchon Hanok Village
National Folk Museum
Somerset Palace Seoul C2 02-6730-8888
D
01:00 pm
of galleries, workshops, antique stores, teahouses and Korean restaurants. For a truly memorable experience, though, spend your afternoon exploring the quaint alleyways of the Bukchon neighborhood (see Map 3 ), home to Seoul’s largest collection of Korean-style hanok homes.
Museums & Galleries
Hotels
In the evening, stop by Gwanghwamun Square B2 , which is lit up at night. The area around the square is one of Seoul’s most interesting, with palaces, museums, performing arts venues and shops.
RECOMMENDED EATERIES Plan B Jeong-dong
02:00pm
Another neighborhood worth exploring is Jeong-dong B4, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, where you’ll find lovely old churches, schools and diplomatic compounds. Also part of Jeong-dong is fascinating Deoksugung Palace B4, with its eclectic Korean and Western architecture.
02:00pm
Many international visitors head to Insadong (see Map 2 ), a bustling neighborhood
Shops
Dinner Gwanghwamun Square
Bibigo B4 (T. 02-730-7423) Well-regarded bibimbap chain Bibigo offers several variants of the bibimbap variations along with a variety of tapas dishes. You can choose the dish, type of rice, toppings and sauce.
Top Cloud C3 (T. 02-2230-3001) Located at the top of the distinctive Jongno Tower, this Western restaurant is better known for its outstanding views.
Clubs & Theaters
Etc.
Coupon Affiliates
fare, too, including a mushroom and noodle stew.
Gwanghwamunjip B3 (T. 02-739-7737) One of the most famous kimchi stew (gimchi jjigae) restaurants in the area.
Ohyangjokbal B4 (T. 02-753-4755) Some of the best jokbal (boiled pig’s trotters) in Seoul. Comes with rice-cake soup, too! Near Seoul City Hall.
Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo Map 2, A3 (T. 02-738-1769) Barbecue-broiled eel and pork chitterlings in a retro interior. Near Jonggak Station (Line 1).
Cheongjinok C3 (T. 02-735-1690) They’ve been doing haejangguk (Korean hangover soup) since 1937. First floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.
05:30 pm
Samujeong B4 (T. 02-755-8044)
Tosokchon B2 (T. 02-737-7444)
07:30 pm
This Korean restaurant in front of Seoul City Hall has been serving a mean bulgogi since the 1960s. They also do some other good Korean
Seoul’s best-known purveyor of samgyetang (ginseng-chicken soup). Always full. Not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.
45 Map 2 INSA-DONG
Once known (for reasons unknown) as “Mary’s Alley,” Insa-dong started off as an alley of antique dealers and is now one one of Seoul’s major centers of Korean traditional art and culture.
A
B
C
tn.
uk S
Ang
Bukchon
Doriking
1
2
Chon
Ma Vie
Korea Pass The Korea Tourism Organization offers Korea Pass, a prepaid card that offers not only plenty of benefits at tourism-related sites, but can also be used as a transportation card. See www.koreapass.or.kr for details.
Soo-Woon-HoeKwan
Sagwanamu
Miss Lee Café Gana Art Space
TIP
D
Unhyeongung Royal Residence
Cheondogyo Central Temple
The Moon Bird Thinks of the Moon Only
ACCOMMODATION
Ikseon-dong
Hotel the Sunbee B2 (T. 02-730-3451)
Tobang Min's Club Sin Yetchatjip
2
Jogyesa Temple (Central Buddhist Museum)
Balwoo Gongyang (5F)
OSULLOC Gallery Artside
Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art (Dawon) Crown Hotel
Sudo Pharmacy
Sanchon Dubu Maeul
Dolsilnai
Fraser Suites
Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul
Sun Gallery
Gong Art Space Mugyo Samgyetang La Mer gil a Center Mark Taehw Hotel
Tteuran Nagwon Arcade (4F, Cinematheque / Seoul Art Cinema)
National Souvenir Center
g on n a-d tio Ins rsec e Int
Hotel SunBee
Hotel Aventree Jongno
Hanuso
Tea Museum
Dolsilnai
VOOK's Gallery
Ma Vie B1 02-722-2775
3
Jilkyungyee C2 02-734-5934
Nami Island Culture Tour Information
If you want to know about Korea's distinctive culture, try on an outfit by Jilkyungyee. You'll feel it from head to toe.
Naminsa Open Theater 4
Seung Dong Presbyterian Church
Experience culture through cuisine...
Ongo Food Communication D2 02-3466-1607
Experience culture through cuisine...
Jongno Tower (Top Cloud 33F)
Tapgol Park
Insa-dong Culture Plaza
Bandi & Luni's IT'S SKIN
You can arrange a stay at a Buddhist temple.
2
Elegant and distinctive handmade accessories that stand out from the usual high street crowd - but at affordable prices.
Sihwadam
4
Templestay Information Center A2 02-2031-2000
IT'S SKIN
Seoul Art Center
Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo
1
Yetchatjip (2F)
3 Jilkyungyee
3
4 O'NGO
Park Yeong-suk Yo Tongin Store
Haejeong Hospital
Beoldeok Kalguksu/ Nolboo Budaejjigae & Cheolpangui
Clean and comfortable accommodations in the Insa-dong area. Western and Korean-style rooms available.
Gung
Ssamzigil
Insa Art Center Mokin Gallery Busan Sikdang
1
Gyo-dong Elementary School
YMCA
We are a culinary school and culinary tour company that offers Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours in English or Japanese. Through our tours and cooking classes you will experience the real, local flavors of Seoul and you will gain an insider’s perspective to Korean culture. Private and group classes and tours are available.
Golbal Stores
Restaurants & Bars
Shops
ongofood@ongofood.com
6
Galleries tour
10:00 am
Insa-dong is comprised of one main street and the alleyways that branch off from it. Along the main street you’ll find most of Insa-dong’s galleries and shops, while the restaurants and teahouses can be found in the alleyways. Major galleries to check out are the Kyung-in Museum of Art C2 (lovely teahouse here, too), Insa Art Center B2, Kong Gallery B3, VOOK’s Gallery C3 (great if you like books) and the fascinating Mokin Gallery B3, dedicated to Korean totemism.
Lunch
Hotels
Clubs & Theaters
In an alley just off the main street is historic Seung Dong Presbyterian Church C3 (1902), and in another is the grand, Art Nouveau central temple of Cheondogyo C1 (1921), an indigenous Korean faith. Near Insa-dong are Unhyeonggung Palace D1 , a gorgeous 19th century Korean villa well worth exploring, and Tapgol Park D4, Seoul’s first Westernstyle park. Nagwon Arcade
04:00pm
Nagwon Arcade D2 is Asia’s largest collection of musical instrument shops. The nearby restaurants are cheap but good.
Etc.
Coupon Affiliates
A neighborhood with a neighborhood, Ssamzigil B2 is a culture and shopping complex comprised of four floors of stores, restaurants and workshops. It’s home to about 70 shops in all. Recommended ones include Galpi (books), Sky Lake (cosmetics made with Korean traditional herbs), Chinjeolhan Hyeonja-ssi (Korean cuisine/ broiled fish) and Bukchon Sonmandu (Korean dumplings). In the basement there is also a branch of Gogung, the famed Jeonju bibimbap restaurant.
RECOMMENDED EATERIES Specializing in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine
Dinner
05:30 pm
Ssamzigil
07:00 pm
Sanchon C2 (T. 02-735-0312)
02:00pm
dance performances in the evening.
Min’s Club C1 (T. 02-733-2966) Fusion is the name of the game here, both in terms of the architecture (a fusion hanok from the 1930s) and the cuisine (fusion dishes mixing Korean and Western flavors).
Toetmaru Doenjang Yesul C2 (T. 02-739-5683) Run by poet/photographer Park Jung-sik, this lively place specializes in gang doenjang, a very thick, rich soy bean paste stew.
Dubu Maeul C2 (T. 02-735-9996)
Balwoogongyang A2 (T. 02-2031-2081)
12:30 pm
Exploring Insa-dong’s past Insa-dong has its fair share of history, too.
Jump D4 02-722-3995 Comic Martial Arts Performance
Museums & Galleries
EXPLORING INSA-DONG
ongofood@ongofood.com
6
(JUMP)
Bosingak Belfry
Seoul Global Center (5F)
— Contact us — tel. 02.3466.1607 www.ongofood.com
— Contact us — tel. 02.3466.1607 www.ongofood.com
KT Global Store
Cine Core YP Books
KT Global Store C4 02-733-0267
Need a cell phone, or help with the one you've got? Knowledgeale and friendly English speaking representatives at the KT Global Stores are here to help.
5
Jonggak Stn.
We are a culinary school and culinary tour company that offers Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours in English or Japanese. Through our tours and cooking classes you will experience the real, local flavors of Seoul and you will gain an insider’s perspective to Korean culture. Private and group classes and tours are available.
5
Kumkang
Jewelry Market
Cooking Classes & Culinary Tours
Run by a Buddhist monk and expert in Korean Buddhist cuisine, this famed eatery does great vegetarian cuisine, with Korean traditional
The taste of Korean traditional homemade tofu and pungent, healthy cheonggukjang soybean stew.
Gung B2 (T. 02-733-9240) An Insa-dong institution for 70 years, this place specializes in Kaesong-style mandu (dumpling) stew. Good, hearty eating that’s popular with locals and international visitors alike.