Living on the Peninsula March 2019

LIVING on the peninsula

SPRING 2019

BRIDGING

OUR COMMUNITIES

+ EXPLORING THE EMERALD TOWNS OF THE HOOD CANAL Bright blooms

Phytoplankton’s impact

Park reinvention

‘10 acres of possibilities’

Play at being

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spring 2019

Table of Contents 06 | peninsula events calendar

Check out what’s happening on the Peninsula in March, April, May and June

07

15

19

22

07 | arts, culture and entertainment

Port Ludlow Players indulge in a wide range of theater enthusiasts’ tastes

10 | history in the making

Quilcene’s renovated Worthington Park boasts ‘10 acres of possibilities’

13 | outdoor recreation

The best laid plans ... Our columnist encourages hikers to be ready to change their plans

15 | bridging our communities

We dive into the history of the William A. Bugge Hood Canal Bridge

19 | bright blooms

Phytoplankton in the Hood Canal could negatively impact local fisheries

22 | accessibility for all

Disabled Hikers founder sets her eyes on hiking inclusivity along Washington trails

26 | the daytripper

A day spent in the Emerald Towns of the Peninsula attest to future summer plans

29 | the living end

The memory of the ‘Harmonica Guy’ is not one to soon be forgotten in Jefferson County

LIVING ON THE PENINSULA Vol. 15, No. 1

Produced and published by PENINSULA DAILY NEWS and SEQUIM GAZETTE Advertising Department 305 W. First St., Port Angeles, WA 98362 • 360-452-2345 • peninsuladailynews.com 147 W. Washington St., Sequim, WA 98382 • 360-683-3311 • sequimgazette.com Terry R. Ward, regional publisher Steve Perry, general manager | Eran Kennedy, advertising director Editorial & Production: Shawns Dixson, Laura Foster & Brenda Hanrahan, special sections editors Advertising Sales: 360-683-3311 • 360-452-2345 ©2019 Peninsula Daily News | ©2019 Sequim Gazette

Spring 2019 Living on the peninSuLa

5

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS MARCH

FORKS/WEST END • March 23-24: Nate Crippen Memorial Basketball Tournament, Forks High School Gym, all day, $300. Call Rick Gooding at 360-780-0310.

• March 23: Master Composter/Recycler Workshops, Forks Library, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Visit nols.org.

• March 29: Welcoming of the Whales Ceremony, Quileute Nation: First Beach, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Call Rio Jaime at 360-374-5091.

PORT ANGELES • March 20-April 21: “Mothers Makers” photography exhibition, Port Angeles Fines Arts Center. Visit pafac.org.

• March 23: Masonic Wine Fest, Port Angeles Masonic Lodge, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., $35.

Visit pamasonic.org.

• March 29-April 14: Port Angeles Community Players presents “The Uninvited,” $15.

Visit pacommunityplayers.com.

SEQUIM • March 30: Olympic Driftwood Sculptors Art Show, Dungeness River Audubon Center in Railroad Bridge Park, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., donations welcome. Visit olympicdriftwoodsculptors.org.

PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • March 22-24: Port Townsend Victorian Heritage Festival, downtown. Visit 2019.vicfest.org.

APRIL

FORKS/WEST END • April 20: Easter Egg Hunt, Tillicum Park Baseball Fields, Forks, 1 p.m. Call Robin Schostak at 360-374-9340.

• April 20: Free Entrance Day, Olympic National Park, all day.

• April 20: Washington Coast Cleanup 2019.

Visit coastsavers.org.

• April 20, 26-28: RainFest 2019, Forks.

Visit forkswa.com/events.

• April 21: Easter Breakfast, Forks Elks Lodge, 8 a.m. to 11 a.m., prices vary. Call Christi Baron at 360-374-3311.

• April 21: Fifth annual River & Ocean Film Festival, Rainforest Arts Center, Forks. Call 360379-4498 or visit wsg.washington.edu/film-festival.

• April 26-28: Fabric of the Forest Quilt Show & Classes, Forks High School Auxiliary Gym. Visit piecemakersquiltclub.org.

PORT ANGELES • April 5-7: NW Cup Downhill Mountain Bike Series: Round 1, Dry Hill Mountain Bike Trails.

Visit nwcup.com.

6 Living on the Peninsula Spring 2019

SPRING 2019

• April 13: Habitat for Humanity fourth annual Taste of the Peninsula, Red Lion Hotel, 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., $100. Visit habitatclallam.org.

• April 20: OAT Run (Olympic Adventure Trail Run), Harbinger Winery, 9:30 a.m. Visit oatrun.org.

• May 19: Rhody Run, Fort Worden State Park, 11 a.m. Visit rhodyfestival.org.

• May 25-26: Brinnon Shrimpfest, Visit brinnon shrimpfest.com.

SEQUIM • April 5: First Friday Art Walk, downtown Sequim, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Visit sequimartwalk.com.

• April 5-7: Olympic Theatre Arts presents “Shakespeare’s Wit & Wisdom,” prices vary.

Visit olympictheatrearts.org.

• April 26-May 12: Olympic Theatre Arts presents “First Date,” prices vary. Visit olympictheatrearts.org.

• April 12-14: Olympic Peninsula BirdFest 2019, various locations. Visit olympicbirdfest.org.

• April 26: Olympic Theatre Arts presents “First Date.” Visit olympictheatrearts.org.

SEQUIM • June 7: First Friday Art Walk, downtown Sequim, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Visit sequimartwalk.com.

PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • April 6: Gallery Walk, downtown Port Townsend, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m.

• April 12: Port Townsend Film Festival Women & Film, various locations. Visit ptfilmfest.com.

• April 20: Earth Day Spring Cleanup, downtown Port Townsend, 9 a.m. to noon. Visit ptmainstreet. org/earth-day-spring-clean-up.

MAY

FORKS/WEST END • May 2: Forks Stand Down 2019, Forks Elks Lodge, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call Sarge’s Place at 360374-5252.

• May 4: Forks Lions Club White Cane Days Live Auction, Blakeslee’s Bar & Grill, 1 p.m., donations welcome. Visit forkswa.com/events.

• May 5: Annual Fishing Day for Kids, Bogachiel Rearing Pond, Forks, 6 a.m. to noon. Visit forkswa. com/events.

SEQUIM • May 3: First Friday Art Walk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Visit sequimartwalk.com.

• May 3-12: Sequim Irrigation Festival, downtown.

Visit irrigationfestival.com.

PORT ANGELES • May 3-5: NW Cup Downhill Mountain Bike Series Round 2, Dry Hill Mountain Bike Trails.

• May 11: Second Weekend Art Walk, downtown, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Visit portangelesdowntown.com.

• May 24-27: Juan de Fuca Arts Festival. Visit jffa.org.

PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • May 4: Gallery Walk, downtown Port Townsend, 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m.

• May 18-19: Rhododendron Festival 2019, Port Townsend. Visit rhodyfestival.org.

JUNE

PORT ANGELES • June 1-2: North Olympic Discovery Marathon, downtown. Visit nodm.com.

• June 5 and 12: Concerts on the Piers, City Pier, 6 p.m.

• June 7-23: Port Angeles Community Players presents “Barefoot in the Park,” $15. Visit pacommunityplayers.com.

• June 8-9: Port Angeles Maritime Festival, various locations. Visit portangelesmaritimefestival.org.

PORT TOWNSEND/JEFFERSON COUNTY • June 7: 66 Women Producers’ Event, City Key Public Theatre. Visit keycitypublictheatre.org.

All event information listed here is up to date as of press time. For future event submissions, email Shawna Dixson at sdixson@peninsuladailynews.com.

2019 FARMERS MARKETS PORT ANGELES FARMERS MARKET: Saturdays at the corner of Front and Lincoln streets, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Visit farmersmarketportangeles.com.

SEQUIM FARMERS MARKET: Saturdays at Civic Center Plaza, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., May 4-Oct. 26.

Visit sequimmarket.com.

FORKS OPEN AIRE MARKET: Saturdays at Umpqua Bank Parking Lot, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., May-October.

Call 360-374-6918 or email kristyrichmond@ymail.com.

PORT TOWNSEND FARMERS MARKET: Saturdays on Tyler and Laurence streets, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m., April 6-Dec. 21. Visit jcfmarkets.org.

CHIMACUM FARMERS MARKET: Sundays at 9122 Rhody Drive, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., June 2-Oct. 27.

Visit jcfmarkets.org/sunday.

ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT

the Lifting curtain

Ludlow Village Players indulges in a wide range of theater enthusiasts’ tastes

By Erin Hawkins Community theater is an important artistic and cultural aspect of any town, but for the Ludlow Village Players, community theater means more.

“It’s a real theater family,” said Vallery Durling, artistic director of Ludlow Village Players.

The Ludlow Village Players is a 501(c)3 nonprofit, all-volunteer, performing arts association based out of Port Ludlow that draws local talent from many different areas of the Olympic Peninsula.

The Players originated from two performing groups: the Port Ludlow Players and the Port Ludlow Little Theater, which merged in 2007 to become the Ludlow Village Players.

“Five women got together, and we invited people from both groups,” Durling said. “We asked if they wanted to start a new community theater, and it went from there.”

Durling has been the Players’ “resident” artistic director for 12 years. She’s a Port Ludlow resident and has been involved with acting and singing since junior high school. Throughout her life, she has participated in community theater and musical productions.

Durling has been with the Players since the group’s inception, back when theater meetings took place in her home.

“We appreciate and respect each other’s talents and availability for involvement in bringing and keeping a community theater in Port Ludlow,” Durling said.

“Every person involved on whatever level is valued and loved. We truly care about one another. One of my mottos has always been, ‘Lets keep the drama on the stage!’”

Today, the Players serve a vast community of theater enthusiasts, with talent hailing from Sequim to Quilcene and even to Poulsbo.

“We’ve seen growth more so in the fact that we draw from greater areas,” Durling said.

Jenise Harper, a member of the Players’s publicity committee, said when she attended the meeting calling for volunteers, she was amazed at the number of people who showed up at Durling’s home.

“I’ve been involved with theater groups begging for people to take on backstage roles. Not here in Port Ludlow,” Harper said.

“The production committee numbers at least 45 people, and the roles include set design, set building, set decoration, costumes, props, makeup, prompters, poster creation, poster dissemination, media outreach,

Vallery Durling, Ludlow Village Players artistic director, says each year the group selects a unique show to perform for the community. Players’ actors, from left, Don Clark, Eve McDougall, Jim Gormly, Doug Hubbard, Shirley Davies-Owens and Ginny Ford, rehearse a scene from the 2013 show, “Rumors,” by Neil Simon.

Photo courtesy of Ludlow Village Players hospitality, community outreach (and so on),” she said.

“The Ludlow Village Players’ all-volunteer personnel goes far beyond what audiences see on the stage.”

ANNUAL PRODUCTIONS

The Players present one full-length production each year, and the performing group also offers other programs, such as a Reader’s Theatre and improvisation.

Every year, the group chooses one unique show to perform for the community.

Durling and a committee search for a production every year starting in June, and they take several months to find the perfect play for the Players.

Each production is chosen carefully, Durling said, and the Players will not choose a play any other community theaters in the surrounding areas have done.

“We have always gone after the unusual in that we don’t do what everybody else does,” she said. “I have a rule that I won’t repeat anything anyone has done in five years from Port Angeles to Bremerton.”

Durling said the Players want the production to be different every time. Once a play is chosen, auditions

LUDLOW VILLAGE PLAYERS SPRING PRODUCTION “No Crime Like the Present” by Bill Gleason The weekends of March 29-31 and April 5-7 5 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 2 p.m. Sundays The Bay Club, 120 Spinnaker Place, Port Ludlow Tickets ($17 each) available at The Bay Club or brownpapertickets.com start in November, casting happens around December, rehearsals start in January and the play is shown sometime in the spring around the months of March and April.

This year’s production is Bill Gleason’s “No Crime Like the Present,” set for two weekends from March 29-31 and April 5-7 at the Bay Club, 120 Spinnaker Place, Port Ludlow.

Performances start at 5 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and at 2 p.m. Sundays.

Spring 2019 Living on the Peninsula

7

Ludlow Village Players actors, from left, Lou Vilvandre, Mike Derrenberger, Don Clark, Shirley Davies-Owens, Jeff Groves, Beth Ely and Gerry Thom rehearse a scene from the Players’ 2016 show, “American Daughter,” by Wendy Wasserman.

Photo courtesy of Ludlow Village Players

“Before my husband and I bought a home in Port Ludlow, we took a tour of both the Beach Club and the Bay Club, and the staff at both centers emphasized how important the Ludlow Village Players were to the community, as well as how popular the annual play was to local residents.”

Jenise Harper, a member of the Port Ludlow Players’ publicity committee

8 Living on the Peninsula Spring 2019

Tickets are $17 and can be purchased at The Bay Club or online at brownpapertickets.com.

The Players will host a “Patron Appreciation Eve” event set for 7 p.m. Friday, March 29, when audience members can enjoy surprises from gourmet goodies to special gifts.

“No Crime Like the Present” is a comedy that is different from anything the Players have done in the past, with a cast and crew of about 40 people.

“This time it’s more of a bare stage setting with a lot of different scenes, and it’s something we’ve never done before,” Durling said. “For the first time in 12 years, we’ve really given the cast quite a lot of leeway to do what they want with their characters.”

In the past, other shows the Players have done include “Rumors” by Neil Simon, “American Daughter” by Wendy Wasserman and “The Gazebo” by Alec Cooper.

When asked what has kept Durling involved in the Players for the last 12 years, she said it’s the people who have inspired her to stay.

“It’s a pleasure to take a raw product written on a page and watch what (actors and crew) do with it,” she said.

“Each person who takes a role puts him or herself into it. It’s exciting to see how (he or she) grows and how the play grows and becomes something everyone is proud of when they get on stage.”

Harper said these shows are something residents look forward to every year.

“Before my husband and I bought a home in Port Ludlow, we took a tour of both the Beach Club and the Bay Club, and the staff at both centers emphasized how important the Ludlow Village Players were to the community, as well as how popular the annual play was to local residents,” Harper said.

‘ANYTHING GOES’

When it comes to the Player’s improv group, “Anything Goes,” members meet the second and fourth Wednesday of each month to practice.

“Anything Goes” is considered a performing group and has about six active members led by Nancy Peterson, who Durling said has really transformed the program.

“It’s blossoming,” Durling said. “It’s hard to get people to commit, and this is a performing group that needs the commitment to attendance, so that’s a credit to (Peterson) that it’s doing so well.”

The members in this group have no scripts, there is almost no structure, and they include games and short skits.

READER’S THEATRE

The Players also offer a Reader’s Theatre program led by Durling that meets on the third Tuesday of every month.

Members in this group read a play that Durling picks from the Players’ inventory and offers a variety of content readers can experiment with.

“We have a lot of fun at Reader’s Theatre,” Durling said. “It’s a cold read and it’s a lot of fun.

We read everything from classics to spoofs.”

Readers will get together around a table and read a new script each month. Each person takes a part to read.

Those not familiar with the group but who have an interest are welcome to participate or observe.

If interested in Reader’s Theater, email Durling at rkd@olypen.com or call 360-437-2861.

For more information about Ludlow Village Players, visit the nonprofit’s website at ludlowvillageplayers.org. 

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HISTORY IN THE MAKING Quilcene’s Worthington Park boasts ‘10 acres of possibilities’

By Joan Rutkowski A Victorian mansion in Quilcene is now the focal point of an ambitious $1.5 million project to create a multi-use facility for public and private gatherings.

Once deteriorating, hidden behind overgrown trees and unknown to many area residents, the three-story 1892 mansion and its grounds could soon become a dynamic community gathering place and tourism draw to Quilcene and southern Jefferson County.

The nonprofit Quilcene Historical Museum has been restoring the mansion since acquiring the residence and property in 2013. The home had belonged to Quilcene’s Worthington Family for 120 years.

The museum’s board of directors adopted the name Worthington Park for the 10-acre property that features the museum and mansion, as well as an outdoor theater, historic barn, pond and trail along the Little Quilcene River.

The goal is to complete the mansion’s renovation this fall, just in time for Quilcene Festival Weekend on Sept. 14-15 (see sidebar on page 11).

David and Christine Satterlee, museum board members, are among approximately 100 volunteers who have logged more than 14,000 hours to renovate the mansion.

“What’s exciting for the museum is that we’ve saved this treasure of early Quilcene and Jefferson County and renewed it so that it can be enjoyed by the community,” David said. “It’s a great asset for this little community of Quilcene that has never gotten much attention.”

Museum volunteers are inspired by the home’s history, architecture and the potential Worthington Park holds as an event center that hosts retreats, weddings, community events and other activities.

David’s great-grandfather, Milton Satterlee, wrote about the mansion’s construction in the Quilcene Queen, a newspaper he founded in 1891.

Milton was among many pioneers who settled the area in anticipation of a railroad track to Portland that also would connect Port Townsend and Quilcene to transcontinental lines.

In 2011, the last Worthington to live in

The Victorian mansion in Quilcene is undergoing renovations as part of a $1.5 million project to create a multi-use facility for public and private gatherings, now known as Worthington Park. Photo by Laura Foster the mansion, Eilleen, talked with museum leaders about how to preserve her historic home and its intertwined history with Quilcene and provide new opportunities for the town.

A founder of the museum and active

10 Living on the Peninsula Spring 2019

supporter of Quilcene’s community organizations, Eilleen was nearing the end of her life and shared the museum’s concern that the aging mansion would be demolished and the property subdivided and developed.

She offered the museum a twoyear option to buy the mansion and its grounds.

The museum began fundraising in 2011 and purchased the property for approximately $265,000 in 2013.

ARCHITECTURAL AND HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE

After acquiring the property, the museum applied for the mansion’s listing in the National Register of Historic Places. Recognition was granted in 2014 because of the home’s Victorian architecture and direct connection to two prominent Quilcene pioneers.

“Worthington Park is a symbol of all the pioneers who came here,” said Larry McKeehan, the museum’s historian and board secretary.

The mansion remains the only residence of its age and style in rural Jefferson County.

The mansion was built by Millard Fillmore Hamilton, a pioneer from Indiana who platted the town of Quilcene with business partner Lucian McArdle in 1889.

According to museum archives, Hamilton established and owned a local mercantile, sawmill and other businesses and also invested in real estate along Hood Canal.

As his status and finances grew, he set out to build a grand Victorian mansion in 1891.

The residence was built in the Second Empire style, named for its prominence in French architecture during Napoleon III’s reign.

The home boasted 17 rooms and a Mansard roof, a key feature of Second

Empire architecture. Mansard roofs are characterized by two slopes on all four sides, with the lowest portion at a steeper angle than the top. This spacious roof design allows for dormer windows and a full floor of living space.

The mansion was completed in 1892, but Hamilton never lived in it. He lost the home to creditors in the “Panic of 1893,” an economic depression that affected the entire country.

Meanwhile, dreams of the Peninsula’s connection to the transcontinental railroad died with the sinking finances of The Oregon Improvement Company, formerly a major player in developing rail and sea transport infrastructure in the Pacific Northwest.

Hamilton left the area but returned and became Jefferson County sheriff for a short time in the late 1890s.

THE WORTHINGTON ERA

The home was largely vacant until 1907, when it was purchased by Quilcene businessman William J. Worthington and his wife, Grace. “WJ,” as he was known, had owned a general store along Hood Canal that sold groceries and other provisions to settlers and Twana Indians in the late 1880s.

According to museum archives, he moved his grocery to the center of Quilcene and formed a business partnership with his brother, Edgar.

Quilcene Festival Weekend, set for Sept. 14-15, will feature the Quilcene Fair & Parade on Saturday and the seventh annual Quilcene Oyster Races on Sunday.

The half marathon, 10K and 5K races will start and finish at Worthington Park.

Proceeds will benefit QuilceneBrinnon Dollars for Scholars, which The brothers became prosperous logging and real estate investors, and WJ was soon able to buy Hamilton’s abandoned mansion.

For the next 120 years, the mansion was home to members of the Worthington family. WJ and Grace raised eight children there, and the home and their adventures were part of the memories of many Quilcene children from that era. According to museum archives, WJ was a self-taught man who valued education and had an extensive personal library.

The couple’s two daughters and five sons all graduated from Quilcene High School and attended college, a notable achievement for that era; the eldest son died young from blood poisoning.

WJ and Grace passed away in the 1930s, and the home remained in the family.

Their son Robert, a Yale-trained forester, bought the home from his siblings in 1946 and returned to his Quilcene roots.

He began working in the area as an independent surveyor and logging engineer. After an earlier divorce, he married Eilleen in 1974. An avid outdoorsman and photographer, Robert hiked the Olympic Mountains throughout his life; Mount Worthington, a 6,900-foot peak in the Buckhorn Wilderness, is named for his family.

Eilleen’s relationship with the Quilcene Historical Museum began well before she sold the mansion to the organization.

An active supporter of the Quilcene First Presbyterian Church and other civic and cultural groups, Eilleen helped found the museum in 1991 and donated property to establish its home.

The museum officially opened its doors in 1993 after acquiring a building from the church for $1.

Robert died in 1995 at the age of 95, and Eilleen lived in the mansion until she

provides scholarships to high school seniors and college students, and Count Me In For Quilcene, a nonprofit dedicated to enhancing the Quilcene community.

Festival activities will be held throughout Quilcene, and events at Worthington Park will include a concert and beer garden.

See you there! passed away in 2012 at age 92.

‘10 ACRES OF POSSIBILITIES’

After purchasing the property in 2013, museum board members decided that the best way to share the mansion’s legacy is to make it an event center committed to environmental best practices and the historical, cultural, recreational and economic livelihood of south Jefferson County. They held a public meeting to learn what the community wanted from Worthington Park.

“It’s 10 acres of possibilities,” David said.

The one desire everyone agreed upon was that a Mansard roof should be restored to the house. Due to water and wind damage, WJ and Grace had replaced the original Mansard roof with a gabled roof in 1932. The gabled roof reduced the third floor to an attic. “After that, it looked like a plain Jane house from the outside,” he said.

Fundraising efforts began in earnest in 2013. The museum board wanted to preserve the mansion’s architecture from the roof to the foundation.

Sequim’s Monroe House Moving moved the mansion 100 feet so the foundation could be rebuilt. To help design the historic roof style, Seattle’s Tonkin Architecture studied early photos of the mansion and visited the site.

To support the new Mansard roof, the structure needed substantial reinforcement, which provided the opportunity to improve wiring, insulation and siding.

Port Angeles’s Zenovic & Associates engineered the structural improvements, and Quilcene’s Nieman Construction performed structural work and built and installed the Mansard roof and dormer windows.

Along the way, numerous volunteers gathered for Friday work parties, fueled by coffee, scones and a shared passion for the project.

When completed in 1892, Fillmore’s mansion had full plumbing, with water provided by an on-site wooden storage tank connected to a windmill. Inset: WJ and Grace Amelia Legg Worthington with family at the mansion they purchased in 1907. Photos courtesy of Quilcene Historical Museum Spring 2019 Living on the Peninsula

11

The Quilcene Historical Museum highlights the history of south Jefferson County communities.

With the help of volunteers, museum co-founder and historian Larry McKeehan recently completed an oral history project that captures on compact disc the stories of 30 local pioneer families, told by their children, grandchildren and greatgrandchildren.

Located at 151 Columbia St. in Quilcene, the museum is open April through October, Fridays through Mondays, from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.

For more information, call 360-765-4848 or visit quilcenemuseum.org.

OPENING THE DOORS

Museum president Mari Phillips stands near the mansion’s recently restored fireplace at the 2018 Holiday Fest. Phillips and museum secretary Larry McKeehan lead conversations with Eilleen Worthington about the future of her home and its possible connection to the museum.

Photo courtesy of Quilcene Historical Museum

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They’ve tackled demolition and cleanup needs; removed wall-towall carpeting, wallpaper and paint; and replaced damaged plaster with drywall where needed.

Their work revealed the original Douglas fir flooring, which they refinished, along with much of the original cedar and figured maple moldings and doors.

Not to be forgotten is the time it took to stain more than 9,000 shingles for the new Mansard roof.

“What’s really amazing is that so much of the 1892 construction is still there,” David said, who is the project manager for interior renovations with Christine. “People who are interested in historic structures or who have a construction background — their mouths fall open when they see this place.”

The board has raised nearly $1.5 million for the project through grants from Washington state agencies, gifts from private foundations and donations from individuals and businesses.

Fundraising efforts have been led

by Carol Christiansen, who chairs the museum’s Fund Development Committee.

Drawing on her professional experiences in fundraising and public relations, Christiansen has coordinated numerous campaigns for Worthington Park since 2011.

To finish the project, the museum needs to install new septic and water systems, build a parking lot and complete the kitchen and bathrooms.

The board has worked closely with the county to understand what is needed to rent the mansion for events and gatherings.

The county is currently reviewing the mansion’s conditional use permit application; permit requirements will help clarify how much remaining work will cost.

The board anticipates needing to raise a few hundred thousand dollars to complete the project.

Meanwhile, the museum is gathering antique furnishings to decorate each bedroom in one of four historical styles: Victorian, Eastlake, Mission and Arts and Crafts.

The interior and exterior are now painted with historically appropriate colors, all donated by Peninsula Paint Centers.

McKeehan, the museum’s historian and board secretary, is creating educational and historical materials

for the mansion. He anticipates that Worthington Park will increase the number of visitors to the museum and Quilcene area.

An average of 2,630 visitors from around the world visit the museum each year to view its collections, which include artifacts from south Jefferson County’s farming, logging, Native American and pioneer histories. (see sidebar) To help Worthington Park enhance Quilcene and Jefferson County, the museum board is building partnerships with area businesses, schools and nonprofit organizations.

The group is talking with Quilcene School District leaders to explore how Worthington Park could benefit local students.

Internships, poetry readings and projects for history, science and engineering classes are all possible, said Brian Cullin, Worthington Park’s marketing director.

Some benefits are already happening.

For example, through increased publicity and activities at Worthington Park for last year’s Oyster Races, Cullin said the museum helped double the amount of money raised for QuilceneBrinnon Dollars for Scholars.

Also, the Linger Longer Outdoor Theater has hosted several concerts and gatherings since it was built in 2012.

“The possibilities are pretty extraordinary,” Cullin said. “There is no other special events center like this in the region with a museum, mansion, outdoor theater and natural areas.”

Christiansen is similarly inspired by the partnerships and experiences that could shape Worthington Park.

She envisions groups gathered at long tables in the meadow outside of the mansion, enjoying a “farm-to-table” celebration of the area’s bounty.

“It will be such a wonderful place to showcase our agricultural and shellfish farms,” she said. “It also will be an offseason place where groups can retreat.

It’s quiet; it’s a place where you can think and contemplate.”

As the renovation approaches the finish line, the board is reaching out to the community to continue to gather ideas for operations.

“It’s been so rewarding to have this opportunity to renovate a glorious Victorian mansion,” Christiansen said.

“The amount of effort that has gone into this event center and museum is extraordinary.

“I know we’re going to make a difference for the community economically and socially. This will be a wonderful opportunity.” 

OUTDOOR RECREATION

THE BEST LAID PLANS ...

A reminder to always be flexible when venturing out for a Hood Canal-area hike Story and photos by Michael Dashiell Ah, the best laid plans …

I don’t know if it’s some sort of weird karmic thing between myself and hikes near the Hood Canal, but I seem to have some moderately bad luck from camping rain-outs, the snow-laden disasters to hikes that never started and those that didn’t quite get finished.

I can’t recall my first venture to the area — when someone mentions Dosewallips State Park I seem to recall some sort of fond memory — but growing up in Kitsap County, my friends and family were quite familiar with the region. That includes weekends at Kitsap Memorial State Park, summer days at the relatives’ summer house just off the canal’s southern stretch of state Route 106, and recklessly speeding around on fast boats with my high school buddies.

One winter, just out of high school, a couple of pals and I decided we’d beat the crowds and do some camping at the Staircase campground, just west of Lake Cushman. With a number of loops and other trails, the wintry stillness and solitude was a perfect weekend getaway, and we didn’t even mind the cold.

We tried to repeat the same experience the following year. This was a mistake.

Though the campground was open year-round, the ranger station was only staffed in the summer. So when the snow started falling … and temperatures dropped … and then the snow turned to rain … and the car broke down … and the rain started leaking into the tents … well, the three of us thought, “So this is how it ends.”

We wound up calling a friend collect on a pay phone and she drove all the way from Seattle (we didn’t have a lot of good friends who stayed in Bremerton, apparently) to rescue us.

I haven’t been back.

When my special sections editor started kicking around ideas about a recreation column centered around

Wear good footwear for winter hikes up Mount Walker. Hikers gain about 2,200 feet from the trailhead to the northern summit. the Hood Canal, my first thought was “Not me, thanks,” and then, “Well, not Staircase” (particularly apropos, since the road to the campground is snowed in and blocked), and then, finally, “OK, why not?”

Plan No. 1: Check out Murhat Falls. I’d never done this hike and from what pictures I could find it sounded well worth whatever struggle it may entail getting to the trailhead, considering there was likely to be plenty of snow on the ground in the wake of Snowmaggedon 2019.

My suspicions about snow issues proved prescient. Getting to the

Murhat Falls trailhead involved taking Duckabush Road to Forest Service Road 2510 about four miles into Olympic National Forest. By the time my hiking partner/wife, Patsene, and I actually hit the forest road we were in about 6-8 inches of combined sloppy slush/packed ice with about 4.4 miles to go. I have a decent vehicle for winter driving, but this was a no-go. After about 500 feet, I made an executive decision: “How about that Mount Walker hike?”

Plan No. 2: For years I’d been wanting to make the trek up Mount Walker — a popular hike for a number of reasons.

One, its only about 2 miles in length.

Two, the trailhead is a short walk from U.S. Highway 101. Three, it offers southern and northern views of the beautiful surrounding region. Four, it’s in the national forest, so it’s dog-accessible.

And five, for those who can’t (or don’t want to) make the steep, switchbackladen hike, you can simply drive to the top. That is, if the road isn’t closed off, as it often is during winter months.

Backtracking about 10 miles to the trailhead just south of Quilcene, we came to the closed off Mount Walker Road and saw the makeshift parking lot jammed with cars. We weren’t the only ones looking for a winter day hike, apparently.

Spring 2019 Living on the peninSuLa

13

Mount Walker offers breathtaking views from its two summits — or so we hear.

Recent snowfall makes this steep hike with 20 percent-plus grades a bit of a challenge.

Donning our Yaktrax — handy little wire grips that retrofit shoes and boots into, well, shoes and boots with a bit better traction — Patsene and I made our way up to the trailhead and started up.

With blue skies above, a pack loaded with lunch and no real timetable, we were set for a fun hike.

From its northern viewpoint, the 2,804-foot Mount Walker offers a vista to glimpse such peaks as Mount Jupiter, Mount Constance, Mount Townsend, Buckhorn Mountain and the like toward the interior of Olympic National Park. Mount Walker’s southern viewpoint offers even more: On a clear day, hikers can get views of much of the glacier-created Hood Canal, Mount Rainier, Puget Sound and into Seattle and Everett (see tinyurl.com/LOPMtWalkerTrail).

In between, hikers get a workout with grades up to 20 percent, switching back and forth through dense Douglas fir.

In warmer months, visitors get up-close glimpses of pink and purple Native Pacific rhododendrons, plus salal, sword fern and Oregon Grape.

On this winter day, however, what filled our eyes was an ethereal mist that seemed to rise up from the melting and evaporating snow.

Large chunks of snow and ice came

crashing down on our heads (and down our backs) with alarming regularity as they slipped from the branches of the Douglas firs. That didn’t seem to bother fellow hikers on the trail, nor their canine friends.

In short, however, we never made it to the top. Patsene had some issues with her feet, one of her Yaktrax kept popping off, and by the time we neared the one-mile mark the steep trails and prospect of trying to safely make our way down was getting less and less favorable.

Plus, the snowball fight with gravity was getting old. We, somewhat regretfully, made our way back to the car.

This wasn’t our first uncompleted hike.

One in particular that comes to mind is, some years back, a hike from Heart O’ the Hills to Lake Angeles ended about an eighth of a mile from the water when our teenaged hiking partners abruptly stopped, sat down and said they wouldn’t hike any further. Not wanting leave the pair of inexperienced hikers as food for bears, we begrudgingly turned back.

On to Plan No. 3: Hot cocoa with marshmallows, and a movie.

Sometimes that’s how it goes, hiking in the Pacific Northwest. The best laid plans … of course, being OCD as I am, I won’t be satisfied until I finish that hike, snow or no. 

14 Living on the Peninsula Spring 2019

From its northern viewpoint, the 2,804-foot Mount Walker offers a vista to glimpse such peaks as Mount Jupiter, Mount Constance, Mount Townsend, Buckhorn Mountain and the like toward the interior of Olympic National Park.

Mount Walker’s southern viewpoint offers even more: On a clear day, hikers can get views of much of the glacier-created Hood Canal, Mount Rainier, Puget Sound and into Seattle and Everett.

Bridging our communities Hood Canal Bridge: Past, present and future

The William A. Bugge Hood Canal Bridge has had its share of highs and lows. We look back on the history of this vital Peninsula link — from before its inception to today’s tribulations.

By Shawna Dixson Spring 2019 Living on the Peninsula

15

T

he William A. Bugge Hood Canal Bridge is a vital connection for the Olympic Peninsula. When talk of a bridge over Hood Canal began in the 1940s, the only way to get to Kitsap Peninsula was by driving 115 miles around.

Though feasibility of a bridge over the canal was uncertain, the community’s need for faster passage between its stunning sanctuary and the rest of the world was quickly becoming undeniable.

The bridge is now an inextricable part of the Peninsula’s economy, but it was finished 15 months behind schedule and has been plagued with complications ever since.

1949-61: LOFALL-SOUTHPOINT FERRY RUN

Nearly a decade before construction on the Hood Canal Bridge began, there was enough demand for direct transportation between the Olympic and Kitsap peninsulas to interest investors. Puget Sound Transportation Co., one of the big ferry operators in the area at the time, decided to invest in a new route for it’s Black Ball Line ferries. June 1950, a new ferry run from Lofall to Southpoint opened for service.

The first ferry to run this route, “The Kitsap,” was a wooden boat that carried only 30 cars and 300 passengers.

For comparison, the Jumbo Mark II class ferries in operation today carry 202 vehicles and 2,499 passengers.

Shortly after opening its LofallSouthpoint route, Black Ball rates went up. The Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) decided ferries were too important for the economic development of the region to leave private companies in charge, so it purchased the Black Ball fleet and took over operations.

WSDOT labored to improve its ferries and consolidate routes, but struggled

The former Hood Canal ferry from Lofall dock, looking southwest, circa 1958 Photo courtesy Washington State Archives to keep up with increasing motor vehicle traffic.

Although ferries were working for the time being, it was generally accepted that they would be only a temporary solution, until bridges could be built. Officials worked hard to find economically viable locations to add bridges to the Sound, originally proposing five crossSound bridges.

The Hood Canal Bridge is the only one ever realized.

1950-57: NATURAL OBSTACLES The Hood Canal Bridge was an ambitious project and faced a tentative future when first proposed in 1950; however, the Lofall-Southpoint crossing had enough traffic to justify an investigation into whether replacing the ferry run with a bridge was a good investment.

The bridge effort was largely led

by William A. Bugge, director of Washington State Highways from 1949 to 1963.

1950-57: Natural obstacles

The Hood Canal Bridge was an ambitious project and faced a tentative future when first proposed in 1950.

Though it was technically possible to design a traditional bridge that would span the distance, features of the canal made a high-level bridge too expensive.

Hood Canal is actually a fjord, more than a mile wide, meaning normal suspension or truss bridges would require piers along the length of the bridge; however, the canal’s maximum depth of 340 feet and thick, silty bottom made piers impractical.

The Toll Bridge Authority (TBA) found a floating bridge was the most affordable option for the physical layout of the crossing.

Even though Washington had already built several floating bridges, unique qualities of Hood Canal made this one an unprecedented engineering challenge.

Hood Canal had a lot of naval traffic, so the bridge needed to have at least one 600-foot draw span to allow passage through the canal to Navy Ammunition Depot-Bangor. Permanent spans also were needed to allow smaller vessels through without opening the bridge.

A floating bridge had never been built over tidal waters before — this one needed to accommodate a maximum tide fluctuation of 18 feet.

The bridge was going to be concrete and steel, making its partial submersion in saltwater problematic, as well.

Adapted from the floating bridge on Lake Washington, the Hood Canal Bridge design simply raised the road deck 20 feet to keep cars out of the salt.

Electrical components responsible for operating the draw portion of the bridge were given extra protection to help them survive being routinely splashed with sea water.

The basic idea was a floating structure that used hollow concrete pontoons as replacements for piers.

These pontoons would be fixed endto-end, then attached to pier-supported approach structures on either side, forming a chain. The line of pontoons would be carefully anchored with cables to the floor of the canal to prevent drift.

The now-iconic shape of the bridge, until its redesign decades later, was formed by the draw span design, which pulled the innermost pontoons into u-shaped “dock” pontoons toward each shore of the bridge.

TBA hired a board of consultants, engineers from all over the nation, to check the design for flaws. They concluded the plans were good and the bridge would not be unusually difficult or expensive to maintain.

On Nov. 27, 1957, funding was secured for building the Hood Canal Bridge.

E. H. Thomas was appointed project engineer and Morrison-Kaiser-Puget Sound-General was awarded the first contract for work on the bridge.

JANUARY 1958-AUG. 12, 1961: BUILDING AN INNOVATION Work began at the graving dock on the Duwamish River in Seattle, in January 1958, where the pontoons

Aug. 12, 1961: Building an innovation The Hood Canal Bridge opened as a toll bridge 15 months behind schedule. A historical feat of engineering, it was the longest floating bridge in the world at the time and is still the only floating bridge over saltwater.

1950

1970

1949-61: Lofall-Southpoint ferry run

16

June 1950, a new ferry run from Lofall to Southpoint opened for service. Although ferries were working for the time being, it was generally accepted that they would be only a temporary solution.

Living on the peninSuLa Spring 2019

1990: Toll

Toll booths on permanently re

1977: Name changed

The Hood Canal Bridge was renamed the “William A. Bugge Hood Canal Bridge.”

Feb. 13, 1979 Hur

Winds gusting up to 120 three anchors on the wes

were constructed. Problems immediately arose when two of the pontoons sank during construction, requiring design modifications.

By June, workers started towing completed pontoons to Hood Canal for installation.

Winter storms the following year damaged most pontoons already in place on the west side of the bridge.

Excessive movement from turbulent water and wind forces damaged the end connections of the pontoons, requiring another design fix.

Repairs were conducted at Port Gamble Bay by a Kansas-based consulting firm hired to figure out what went wrong, and changes were recommended. All pontoons were completed by February 1961.

The truss approaches and highway additions necessary to connect the bridge presented no unconventional challenges.

Work was completed on these sections without complications.

As the project neared completion, community support grew.

“Bridges to Progress” was the theme for Port Townsend’s 1961 Rhododendron Festival. The Washington Highway News for May and June of 1961 wrote, “Hopes are high in this area that the opening of Hood Canal Bridge will bring forth a host of visitors and new residents never before imagined.”

The Hood Canal Bridge opened as a toll bridge Aug. 12, 1961, 15 months behind schedule. A historical feat of engineering, it was the longest floating bridge in the world at the time and is still the only floating bridge over saltwater.

Over the next 18 years, the bridge was a popular addition to cross-Sound transportation. Although, further modifications were required within the first few years of operation, largely pertaining to the draw functionality of the bridge.

The Hood Canal Bridge eventually

The west end of Hood Canal Bridge on Tuesday morning, Feb. 13, 1979, after winds gusting over 100 mph loosened the bridge’s west movable span and tower, causing 13 supporting highway pontoons to sink. Photo courtesy Washington State Archives

succumbed to the canal’s vicious natural forces, despite a rigorous maintenance schedule.

FEB. 13, 1979-82: HURRICANE-FORCE GALES CAUSE COLLAPSE

Fifty-five miles long and mostly straight, the Hood Canals’ configuration causes extreme wind and wave forces to batter the bridge; the shape of the canal essentially creates a wind tunnel.

When strong winds line up right, hurricane-force winds are a potential hazard. A storm hit Monday, Feb. 12, 1979, that lasted through that Tuesday.

Winds gusting up to 120 mph created 10to 15-foot waves and enough movement to shift three anchors on the west half of the bridge, ultimately causing that half of the bridge to fail.

Around 7 a.m. Tuesday, the west half pontoons broke loose from their approach and floated 3,000 feet north before sinking.

Standing on the west shore of the

990: Toll booths removed

booths on the bridge were anently removed in 1990.

bridge, there was just a road plunging straight into water.

The east half of the bridge remained relatively undamaged, although stress cracks appeared in the pontoons.

The east end of the bridge was deemed safe enough to continue serving its purpose until a later date.

The state Legislature determined the collapse of the Hood Canal Bridge’s west half was a “complete failure of a major segment of highway system with a disastrous impact on transportation services between the counties of Washington’s Olympic Peninsula and the remainder of the state,” according to a WSDOT report.

A state of emergency was declared by former Gov. Dixy Lee Ray. The federal government offered WSDOT $50 million in emergency funds to rebuild the bridge and establish stop-gap measures.

The Lofall-Southpoint ferry docks, decommissioned when the bridge opened in 1961, were put back in use. Emergency

ferry services ran while the bridge was being rebuilt.

During reconstruction, the Hood Canal Bridge design was altered again.

In another attempt to make the bridge withstand the canal’s harsh environment, pontoons, anchor cables, anchors and road deck were all enlarged.

The anchors, identified as the initial cause of failure, were increased from 530 tons to up to 1,875 tons.

To improve density, weight was added using slag from ASARCO copper smelter in Tacoma. The road deck also was fitted for eventual expansion from a two-lane to a four-lane highway.

TBA directly paid $11.6 million to replace the west half of the Hood Canal Bridge. Insurance payout for destruction of the bridge was $30.5 million.

The bridge reopened Oct. 25, 1982.

As a new safety measure, WSDOT implemented a policy requiring the bridge to close any time 40 mph winds sustained for more than 15 minutes.

Tolls were increased from $1.50 to $2.50 per vehicle. Public outcry compelled WSDOT to lower the rate slightly to $2 per vehicle.

As a result of toll increases and confusion surrounding possession of funds used in the west-half rebuild, a lawsuit to remove the bridge tolls was filed in 1986.

Toll booths on the bridge were permanently removed in 1990.

After its west-end collapse, redesign and rebuild, the Hood Canal Bridge functioned without significant problems until mid-1995, when age started to catch up with the bridge.

1995-2018: SERVICING A BATTERED BRIDGE

The Hood Canal Bridge east drawspan started sticking in mid-1995. When opened fully, it would jam, sometimes preventing cars from crossing for several hours.

1995-2018: Servicing a battered bridge

The Hood Canal Bridge east drawspan started sticking in mid-1995. The next year, more repairs were needed.

Future risk of critical storm damage and accelerating maintenance costs from age and wear were sufficient to recommend full replacement of the east half. Further repairs were required in 2017 and 2018.

2010 1990

979 Hurricane-force gales cause collapse

up to 120 mph created 10- to 15-foot waves and enough movement movement to to shift shift on the west half of the bridge, ultimately causing that half of the the bridge bridge to to fail. fail.

Aug. 14, 2003-10: East half replacement

Successfully completed closure-worthy work on March 21, 2010, several months past the expected completion date.

Spring 2019 Living on the peninSuLa 17

This presented serious travel issues for passengers and freight; 20,000 vehicles crossed the bridge on a typical peak summer weekend day in 1996.

The draw problem slowly worsened until officials were forced to analyze whether it would be cheaper to repair or replace the east half of the bridge.

The analysis, completed in October 1997, reiterated that storm damage had been far greater than anticipated by designers of the bridge.

It concluded future risk of critical storm damage and accelerating maintenance costs from age and wear were sufficient to recommend full replacement of the east half.

The Hood Canal Bridge east-half replacement started much like its original construction — with pontoons; however, instead of using the original graving dock in Seattle, a new dock was planned near Ediz Hook in Port Angeles.

A midden (trash dump) associated with the ancient Tse-whit-zen village was uncovered shortly after breaking ground for the dock Aug. 14, 2003.

WSDOT and the Lower Elwha Klallam Tribe agreed to excavate the site, then continue construction.

After eight months of excavation, 335 human remains and over 100,000 artifacts had been recovered.

WSDOT decided the village site

Traffic comes and goes along the Hood Canal Bridge facing west in May 2005.

Peninsula Daily News archives

was too big, abandoned the Tse-whitzen project and moved the pontoon construction to a graving dock in Tacoma.

Once the graving dock issue was settled, construction proceeded.

The primary contractor on the project was Kiewit-General, working collaboratively with state employees.

Preliminary work began on the bridge itself while the pontoons were completed.

By 2006, the west-half roadway was

widened and new approaches added.

Ferry service from Lofall to Southpoint was temporarily reinstated when construction started causing too many closures in 2008.

Successful completion of closureworthy work was announced Sunday morning, March 21, 2010, several months past the expected completion date.

Complications with the new rollers for the drawspan and the ballasting system used to control the height of the draw

pontoons during operation had delayed the project.

WSDOT announced further repairs March 15, 2017. Repeated night closures were necessary in late March and April that year for work related to the drawspan.

The next year, more nightly closures had to be scheduled for continued repairs.

WSDOT carefully coordinated all construction work to minimize impact on commuter traffic.

In a recent interview, WSDOT Olympic Region Public Relations Coordinator Claudia Bingham Baker underscored the department’s awareness of the link the Hood Canal Bridge provides to the community.

“It’s a delicate balance between the work and maintenance needs for maintaining that bridge and meeting motorists’ needs to get across the canal,” she said.

“Add to that the fact that it’s a very active waterway makes it a very complicated part of the highway system.”

When asked about the challenging environment and resulting maintenance needs of the Hood Canal Bridge, “We will always be working on that bridge,” Bingham Baker said.

“Any time you have steel and salt water, they don’t mix so well. The bridge requires constant work to keep it in operation.” 

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18 Living on the Peninsula Spring 2019

BRIGHT BLOOMS Phytoplankton in Hood Canal could negatively impact local fisheries

Washington State Department of Ecology’s Eyes Over Puget Sound program, which conducts monthly observations via air and boat, shows the Hood Canal’s tropical hue during a large coccolithophore bloom.

Photo by Christopher Krembs, provided courtesy Blair Paul

By Alana Linderoth The 68-mile scenic fjord known as Hood Canal is the defining feature between the Olympic and Kitsap peninsulas.

The narrow canal harbors an array of marine life supportive of state, tribal and recreational fisheries, including four species of salmon, Dungeness crab, Pacific oysters, spot shrimp, mussels and manila and geoduck clams.

From its clean water and geography to ease of access from U.S. Highway 101, the Hood Canal is home to many shellfish farms.

“The canal offers great habitat,” said Hama Hama Co. Oyster Farmer Adam James. “The western shore drains the eastern flank of the Olympics, and glacial melt and rain flowing from the numerous watersheds have formed deltas well suited for intertidal critters.”

Protected from the open ocean, the Hood Canal also experiences warmer water temperatures that allow many species of mollusk to thrive.

“The key thing is that the water warms enough in the summer for natural reproduction of clams and oysters,” said Rock Point Oyster Co. CEO Dave Steele. “Growth rates are slower in the canal than around South Puget Sound,

The Hood Canal is clearly identifiable in this July 2017 image from NASA satellites due to the highly reflective quality of coccolithophores. Photo by NASA satellite, provided courtesy Blair Paul where increased nitrogen input enhances algae growth. But that can also be detrimental due to algae die-off causing other problems like low dissolved oxygen and bacteria.”

Although the southern part of Hood Canal does have some issues with low levels of dissolved oxygen and various areas have low pH (acidic) levels, the bulk of Hood Canal is sparsely populated, which equates to clean water, Steele explained.

“Hood canal oysters taste great,” James said. “They take longer to grow than the

products farmed in the south sound and take nearly twice as long to reach market size and yield, but the wait is worth it.”

In 2013, the Hood Canal produced 15 percent (nearly 3.5 million pounds) of the shellfish harvested in Washington, including more than 1.3 million pounds of Pacific oysters, according to the last Census of Aquaculture completed by the United States Department of Agriculture.

ABUNDANT BLOOMS

Beginning in summer 2016 — and recurring the following two summers

— an eye-catching natural phenomenon took place throughout the Hood Canal: a massive bloom of a type of phytoplankton called coccolithophores.

Although not toxic, the increased presence and persistence of the coccolithophore blooms seemed to affect Hood Canal shellfish.

“We had a large adult oyster mortality event this last spring,” James said.

“Timing coincided with the bloom.

We lost 30 to 50 percent.”

James sent samples to AquaTechnics in Sequim, which provides a variety of laboratory services to the aquaculture industry, for disease pathology.

“Nothing noted other than lesions,” James said.

“Those little cells are so small, maybe they gum up the gills and/or the stomach (of the oysters). Last summer was really hot, as was the summer before, and although we saw good oyster spat (oyster larvae that has attached to a surface) recruitment, most of the spat died.

“This is pretty unusual.”

An individual coccolithophore is surrounded by at least 30 small scales, each measuring three one-thousandths of a millimeter in diameter, according to the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA).

Spring 2019 Living on the peninSuLa

19

What is a coccolithophore?

Like any other type of phytoplankton, coccolithophores are one-celled plant-like organisms that live in large numbers throughout the upper layers of the ocean. Coccolithophores surround themselves with a microscopic plating made of limestone (calcite). These scales, known as coccoliths, are shaped like hubcaps and are only three one-thousandths of a millimeter in diameter.

What coccoliths lack in size they make up in volume. At any one time, a single coccolithophore is attached to or surrounded by at least 30 scales. Additional coccoliths are dumped into the water when the coccolithophores multiply asexually, die or simply make too many scales. In areas with trillions of coccolithophores, the waters will turn an opaque turquoise from the dense cloud of coccoliths.

Scientists estimate that the organisms dump more than 1.5 million tons (1.4 billion kilograms) of calcite a year, making them the leading calcite producers in the ocean. earthobservatory.nasa.gov Despite their extremely small size, the scales surrounding coccolithophores are made of light-reflecting limestone.

When coccolithophores are in abundance — as in the past three summers in Hood Canal — their reflective quality gives the water a tropical shade of light blue to green.

The blooms were so large that NASA satellites captured images of the seemingly glowing Hood Canal.

While large coccolithophore blooms in Hood Canal may be increasing, they have long been present.

“Coccolithophores in the ancient ocean were extremely prevalent,” said Blair Paul, shellfish biologist with Skokomish Indian Tribe. “It has to do with their calcification process and stratification of the ocean.”

Many different factors affect these oceanic processes, such as increased ocean acidification, amount of wind, temperatures and freshwater inputs.

“In the ancient oceans, there were periods of time with much warmer waters. This had the effect of creating less temperature differential between the

poles and equator that caused much less wind for long periods of time. Together with more carbon in the water, favorable conditions allowed these things to bloom,” Paul said.

“Stratification of the water column is an increasing trend in the global oceans with changes like the removal of large ice deposits in the northern hemisphere.”

When the coccolithophores were most abundant in the Hood Canal, they often also could be seen forming off Vancouver Island and in inlets of British Columbia, as well as one observed event in the Strait of Georgia outside of Vancouver, B.C., Paul explained.

Unlike Hama Hama Co., Rock Point Oyster Co. didn’t experience the same level of mortality last year, but they were affected before.

“We lost 75 percent of our oysters two years ago and didn’t directly see dead clams, but our clam harvest last year was down 30 percent,” Steele said.

Not only was the size of the blooms in 2016, 2017 and 2018 larger than normal, their duration was notable, too.

“I believe that these blooms are so

20 Living on the peninSuLa Spring 2019

successful that they outcompete the beneficial algae and, if they last for more than a couple weeks, starve the shellfish,” Steele said.

“Starvation doesn’t necessarily kill the shellfish, but it does stunt growth and weaken them. If you then have a high temperature event during an extreme low-tidal cycle during midday, the weakened shellfish suffer significant mortality.”

Rock Point Oyster Co. has been in Hood Canal since the 1940s, and although Steele’s father managed the farm for much of that time, he doesn’t recall past blooms being as large or staying around for as long as the recent ones.

Hama Hama Co. also has an established presence in Hood Canal.

A fifth generation shellfish farm, the farm dates back to the late 1890s.

However, “direct ecological knowledge” only goes back to about the 1950s, James explained.

“It seems like we started seeing an increase (of blooms) in about 2012,” James said.

“At this point, the hope is to at least know what impacts our fishery data has shown and to categorize what the impacts might be to shrimp, crab, oysters, clams and geoduck.”

Blair Paul, shellfish biologist with Skokomish Indian Tribe

“Just little pocket bays blooming.”

In addition to oyster mortality, Hama Hama Co. experienced a loss of purple savory clams in the fall of 2017.

“After the late summer (coccolithophore) bloom, we noticed the pseudofeces associated with nondigestible organic material glowing the same color as the coccolithophores, so clearly the clams were taking it in,” James added.

Pseudofeces is a specialized method of expulsion used by filter-feeding bivalve mollusks, like clams, to rid themselves of suspended particles that they can’t digest or are simply rejecting.

BEGINNING TO UNDERSTAND

For reasons still unknown, shellfish, like this dead Pacific oyster from Dabob Bay, seem to experience varying levels of mortality when coccolithophores are in abundance.

Photo by Blair Paul something else.”

Duration and timing of the blooms seems to be key, Paul explained. Prior to the past three summers, the last large coccolithophore blooms were in 2006 and 2007.

“2007-09 were extremely low crabcatch years throughout the canal and same with this year, and I’d imagine 2019,” he said. “The shrimp fishery seems odd because where it is blooming, they’re not there. But it is hard to tell because it looks like they move up and down the canal and seem to be all below where these blooms were happening last year.”

Like James and Steele, Paul only has educated guesses at this point as to what the relationship between large amounts of coccolithophores and shellfish mortality is.

“Maybe they can’t eat them because they are indigestible, or maybe they do but they just don’t have the nutrition,” Paul said.

A lot is still unknown, and there needs

to be detailed studies to really know what the potential impacts of large coccolithophore blooms are, or could be, on Hood Canal fisheries.

“Part of my goal with this grant is to simply try and make it so there is a paper out there that other people can reference and possible use to generate

more funding, because there is a dearth of information on coccolithophores in the region,” Paul said.

“It is hard to piece the puzzle together, but we need more people to study them because there’s nothing to say in the future that all of Puget Sound won’t go that color.” 

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Aside from speculation, there is little data on the impacts of coccolithophore to shellfish and other local fisheries.

In an effort to begin to understand the possible correlation between shellfish and an increase of coccolithophores, Paul has a grant from the Bureau of Indian Affairs to begin to compile data and provide a plan to help buffer against the potential negative effects of the blooms.

“At this point, the hope is to at least know what impact our fishery data has shown and to categorize what the impacts might be to shrimp, crab, oysters, clams and geoduck,” he said.

The Hood Canal is the Skokomish Indian Tribe’s Usual and Accustomed Fishing Area, and thus the tribe relies on it for a variety of important fisheries.

From looking at surveys, wild oysters also are potentially harmed by the large coccolithophore blooms.

“I was guessing from intertidal shellfish surveys that about a third of the (wild) oyster population in the central canal experienced mortality last year,” Paul said.

Data from other fisheries seems to suggest the blooms may take a toll on them, as well.

“The crab fishery definitely plummets following these periods,” he said. “I’m still trying to get through all the data, and I still need to figure out if it is the larvae stage that is getting impacted or

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OUTDOORS ACCESSIBILITY FOR ALL Disabled Hikers founder sets eyes on inclusivity Sunset at Rialto Beach Photo by Syren Nagakyrie

By Christi Baron For Syren Nagakyrie, a chance two years ago to house sit in Forks opened the door to the great outdoors and nurtured the idea for hiking opportunities for those who have disabilities.

“When disabled folks have access to the outdoors, it becomes an antidote to the isolation so many of us feel,” Nagakyrie said.

While house-sitting, Nagakyrie, originally from Florida, decided to move to Forks. But she struggled to find hikes suitable for disabled people.

“When I couldn’t find information on places for disabled individuals to hike, I decided to start my own trail guide (service) and a year ago, I started Disabled Hikers,” she said.

Nagakyrie has what she calls an “invisible disability” — Ehlers-Danlos syndrome — a group of disorders that affect the connective tissues supporting the skin, bones, blood vessels and many other organs and tissues. Defects in connective tissues cause the signs and symptoms of these conditions, which range from mildly loose joints to lifethreatening complications.

Growing up with the syndrome caused her parents to be overprotective, Nagakyrie said.

“That is why hiking is so important to

me. I take it slow. I use hiking poles and take along things I might need in case

22 Living on the peninSuLa Spring 2019

something does happen,” she said.

Nagakyrie created Disabled Hikers in

an act of love. Her motto, “Love Your Self, Love Your Place,” highlights the power of love and belonging.

“I first researched places and then went out and hiked them, made note of conditions, obstacles on the trail, stairs, etc.”

Her favorite hike is the Elk Creek Conservation Trail, just a few miles northeast of downtown Forks.

“When we can know ourselves as a part of the whole, as connected with nature, we can find our own meaning for our lives.

“For me, it isn’t only about enjoying the beauty of the world; it is about letting the wholeness of the world inform my life.

“It is allowing my love for the outdoors to be reflected back at me.”

Disabilities aren’t always apparent, Nagakyrie said.

“One of the things I find myself educating the outdoors community on the most often is that disability does not always look like a person who uses a wheelchair, and accessibility is more than paved paths and wheelchair accessible restrooms,” she said.

These things are absolutely crucial for some disabled outdoors people, Nagakyrie said, and many parks and organizations are including more wheelchair accessibility information on their websites.

For example, Washington State Parks has released an accessibility map on their website, parks.state.wa.us/156/ADARecreation, and there are organization websites for the Portland metro area and Northern California.

THE SPOON SYSTEM

On her website, disabledhikers.com, Nagakyrie rates hikes with a spoon rating system.

This system is used to identify how much effort a trail might take.

It is based on an understanding of “spoon theory” and offers a representation of how accessible a hike is, plus how much effort it may take with consideration for how replenishing the experience may be.

The spoon theory is a disability metaphor (for a combination of ego depletion, fatigue and other factors) used to explain the reduced amount of mental and physical energy available for activities of living and productive tasks that might result from disability or chronic illness.

Since each person’s ability and energy level is different and can change from day to day, it cannot tell you how difficult a trail might be for you, as you and you alone can decide that.

The spoon rating system is meant to help you decide whether to attempt a trail.

Here’s a general guide: 1 spoon = level, paved, 0-2 miles, very easy access, possibly accessible to a manual wheelchair 2 spoons = level, not paved, 1-3 miles, access takes a little planning, possibly accessible to a power chair 3 spoons = short and gentle elevation changes, mostly dry compact trail, 2-4 miles, not accessible to a wheelchair without assistance or adaptive equipment 4 spoons = elevation changes over 500 ft or longer than .5 mile, trail often muddy or has other obstacles, 3-5 miles, requires advance planning or basic trail

map reading 5 spoons = elevation changes 1,000 feet or longer than 1 mile, trail has many obstacles, 5+ miles, requires extensive planning and map reading Any one of the factors within each spoon rating can shift without changing the overall rating, and the rating can be adjusted a bit based upon how enjoyable the trail is otherwise.

For example, a hike that would be four spoons but offers incredible vistas for the effort might be listed as an “adventurous 3,” because the experience will be restorative, possibly reducing the spoon expense.

However, those are not the only factors that all disabled hikers need to consider.

For Nagakyrie, paved surfaces are often more difficult to walk on for extended periods.

“I need to know material, slope and grade of all sections of a trail, in addition to full elevation change information,” she said. “I need to know if there are bridges or boardwalks or rocks to cross and how sturdy or slick those surfaces may be. I need to know how difficult it is to get to the trailhead, both while driving and finding it from the parking.

How exposed is the trail? Is there cell reception?”

Nagakyrie’s hikes are open to disabled people of all ages.

Hikers can bring along someone to assist them if they feel it is needed.

“People make their own decision on that, but I also want them to be safe,” she said.

Nagakyrie hopes to eventually establish her hiking efforts as a nonprofit entity, but for now, she doesn’t charge for her hikes; she does accept donations in any amount a hiker or group of hikers feels is respectable.

Nagakyrie has done some more challenging hikes on her own, trekking the South Forks Hoh to Big Flat, which is a five-spoon backcountry hike.

She also has done the hike to Cape Flattery, which Nagakyrie describes as harder than it looks.

“For me, it isn’t only about enjoying the beauty of the world; it is about letting the wholeness of the world inform my life.”

Accessibility ramp at Rialto Beach Photo by Syren Nagakyrie

AN EXCERPT: Nagakyrie wrote the following about one of her solo hikes: “Went off adventuring today!

When I left Forks, it was 75 degrees and sunny. As I drove down to the Hoh (River), the temperature dropped a few degrees and I went exploring for a new spot to sit and cool off. The aqua blue water of the river betrayed its glacial chill, a welcome relief.

Ready for a hike, I went up a hill above the river. I startled — and was startled by — a herd of elk that swiftly flowed through the forest in a crashing wave.

Finally at the top, I peaked the snow-capped Olympics from between the trees, feeling my inner

compass righted again in their sight.

I decided to continue on down to Kalaloch (Beach), and before I even crossed the next couple of bends in the river, suddenly a blanket of clouds rolled in off the coast.

The temperature dropped to 55 almost instantly, and both my dog and I seemed to perk up.

Reaching Beach 3, I hiked down to the ocean, every pore of my skin welcoming the cool moisture as the salt air seemed to cleanse the passages of my breath.

Time moves differently at a cloudy coastline, and before I knew it the sun was setting.

As I headed back home, I was glad to see our cloud friends had joined us back in the land of many rivers.”

Spring 2019 Living on the Peninsula

23

Future plans for her possibly include some overnight hiking activities and writing her own guide book to help other folks with disabilities decide where to hike.

Nagakyrie is looking at partnering with other organizations to increase awareness of what is available for disabled hikers.

Nagakyrie will lead group hikes or private hikes all over Western Washington and parts of Oregon. Area hikes are listed and rated on her website. Service dogs are welcomed on her hikes.

She is on Facebook (search “Disabled Hikers”) and Instagram (@disabledhikers).

“I am also holding a yearlong challenge through Disabled Hikers — the 52 Nature Awareness Challenge — which challenges disabled people to notice one new thing in nature each week, whether it is from their living room window, during their commute or out on the trail.

“It is something that people can participate in wherever they

are and join with a community of people who are doing so by posting to social media with the hashtag #52NatureAwarenessChallenge,” she said.

Nagakyrie said that one in four people live with a disability, and she would like each one of them to be able to experience what she has.

Of note, Nagakyrie recently collaborated with the Seattle Audubon Society and presented at a panel discussion on diversity in the outdoors.

She wrote a short article in SELF magazine about the Maple Glade and Kestner Homestead trails in Quinault, which she describes as easy hikes.

She also was interviewed on the Facilitate Adventure podcast about Disabled Hikers and hiking on the North Olympic Peninsula.

For more information about Disabled Hikers, Nagakyrie can be reached at disabledhikerguides@gmail.com. 

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THE DAYTRIPPER

By Laura Foster

I

Rediscovering our Emerald Towns Brinnon and Quilcene show off charms Story and photos by Laura Foster 26 Living on the peninSuLa Spring 2019

’m disappointed with myself and with my husband.

When I first brought up going out to visit the Emerald Towns of the Peninsula, we both struggled to think of day-trip options that would, well, fill up the day.

We’ve always put off the east side of the Peninsula, thinking it was “too far” or “there’s nothing there.” We’ve favored the West End for its majestic rivers, fishing adventures and the friends we’ve made out that way over the years, not to mention the beautiful drive past Lake Crescent to get there from our home in Port Angeles.

Our unfounded opinion of the east Peninsula left us shaking our heads in utter chagrin after our trip one weekend in February.

Doing some research to see what’s what in the Emerald Towns, I quickly was able to design an itinerary that I hoped would fill up our Saturday.

Quilcene and Brinnon, both on the western shores of Hood Canal, get the moniker of “Emerald Towns” from the encompassing green forests that make the open blue water of the Hood Canal and the sky above even more brilliant.

Additionally, the canal is lined with a plethora of emerald tidelands among the creeks and rivers that run from the nearby mountains into the sound.

These towns are gateways to Olympic National Forest and the Olympic Mountains, which includes Olympic National Park, and are known for delectable oysters and Hood Canal spot shrimp.

Starting in the late morning, my husband and I headed east on U.S. Highway 101 to our first stop in Quilcene.

The home of the Quilcene Ranger District, which covers 155,000 acres in the northeast corner of the Peninsula, Quilcene lies in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains and contains some of the driest ecosystems on the Peninsula.

The district includes alpine wonderlands, several major rivers and the 50,000-acre Buckhorn Wilderness.

Our first stop was an interesting, metal-filled area of land. This lot on Highway 101 was filled with the metal sculptures of a local artist.

Rocky Brook Falls’ visible portion drops 229 feet in a narrow veiling horsetail-type fall, with a stunning pool at its base.

A juvenile eagle catches an air current as it goes in for landing at Indian George Creek Estuarine Restoration Site in Quilcene.

According to locals, his kooky structures were not well received by the community, but they eventually grew on everyone.

We wanted to do some shopping, so we stopped at The Picket Fence (22 Washington St.) for some vintage and handmade finds.

The home-grown business is run by KaraLee Monroe, who thoughtfully told us more about the area as we browsed her collection of home goods, reclaimed pieces and shabby-chic goods.

Monroe told us about the campground just a block over off the main road that local families will take over in the summer to enjoy a long weekend together.

After being unable to resist a purchase for myself, my husband, my mother and again for myself, we made our way to the campground next to the Quilcene Community Center.

Aptly named Quilcene Campground, the wooded area has nine sites, each with its own picnic table and fire ring.

We immediately noted this spot for a springtime campout, as it opens April 1 for overnighters.

From here, we made our way to a fishing spot on the Big Quilcene River my husband had visited a few

months back. At the Riverside Picnic/ Community Park, we took the few strides necessary to reach the banks of the narrow river. My husband told me stories of the combat fishing he participated in along the skinny stretch and about the friendliness of the locals.

It was definitely not the Quileute River of the West End, but it undoubtedly had its charms for resident fishermen.

With the wind whipping and a chill in the air, we hopped back in the truck and made our way down Linger Longer Road toward Indian George Creek Estuarine Restoration Site, where a juvenile bald eagle played in the airstreams as it made its way toward the beach.

Farther down the road is Herb Beck Marina, operated by the Port of Port Townsend, adjacent to a swimming area Monroe had mentioned to us back at her shop. She and her kids would go there every summer to splash about in the cool waters.

This day was definitely not a day for jumping in, but we received an amazing view of Hood Canal and were able to note a few oyster operations along the way.

Once we had our fill of getting slammed in the face by the bitterly cold

air, we decided to stop at the 101 Brewery at Twana Roadhouse (294793 U.S. Highway 101) for a pint. The familyfriendly restaurant has a separate room with a handmade wooden bar and plenty of historical photos and equipment from logging days long ago.

I ordered a Hook Tender Honey Brown Ale, and my husband got the Rigging Red Ale. We sipped the delectable brews slowly as we plotted the second half of our trip in Brinnon.

Before heading out of Quilcene, we took a detour to see the up-andcoming Worthington Park area (see the full story on Page 10).

The incredible ‘10 acres of possibilities’ was vacant that day, but the work of many hands could be appreciated as the sun shone on the refurbished mansion and its grounds. We added another note: Visit here in the summer for a show on Linger Longer Stage.

Next up was Brinnon.

This community of about 800 souls was first settled by Elwell P. Brinnon in 1860 on a land claim. It eventually became home to the oldest Boy Scout camp west of the Mississippi, Camp Parsons.

Our first official stop, based on our itinerary, was Rocky Brook Falls.

This is where we really started kicking ourselves.

Up Dosewallips Road, there is a parking area across from the path that leads to the falls. We passed the Rocky Brook Hydroelectric Project, which was completed in March 1986, and sauntered the short distance to the falls.

Our jaws dropped.

The visible portion of Rocky Brook Falls drops 229 feet in a narrow veiling horsetail type fall, with a stunning pool at its base. A group of teenagers was nearby, climbing the opposite hill of the falls.

I stayed firmly planted on the rocky ground while my husband hopped over larger boulders, snapping photos and testing to see how cold the water was.

(Of note, it was frigid).

We regrouped and began our personal outrage at ourselves for never visiting this place before. It’s absolutely breathtaking, and we highly recommend everyone on the Peninsula visit.

We lingered here for some time before heading back toward 101, stopping only to see an elk herd that was making its way through a family’s yard.

Never having visited Dosewallips State Park, we swung into the campground to stretch our legs. Here, again, we kicked ourselves.

Spring 2019 Living on the peninSuLa

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The immaculate park was filled with wintertime campers and boasts 3.5 miles of hiking trails that we promised to wander this summer.

A 425-acre, year-round camping park with 5,500 feet of saltwater shoreline on Hood Canal, Dosewallips park also has 5,400 feet of freshwater shoreline on either side of the Dosewallips River.

The park offers 70 tent spaces, 48 full-utility sites, three platform tent sites (we’re aiming at one of these) and 12 cabins. Everyone’s comfort level is covered in this place, as well as outdoor activities, including access to fishing, shellfishing, boating, sailing and more.

For more information, visit parks.state. wa.us/499/Dosewallips.

Nearby, the Duckabush River also drains the Olympic Mountains through Brinnon, offering great fishing along the river and tidelands.

Adding another note to our summer plans, we felt our tummies rumbling for a good meal.

Just down the road is the Geoduck Restaurant & Lounge (307103 U.S. Highway 101). We have wanted to check this place out for some time, and we were not disappointed.

Despite it being a very “local” spot, we were well received by our waitress and accompanying bartender.

A herd of elk passes through a family’s yard in Brinnon.

We settled into a table that had a gorgeous view of Hood Canal, just as the sun was starting to go down. We ordered the Ahi tuna steak, clam chowder and popcorn shrimp, all of which was scrumptious.

As we admired the thematic decor, our dinner conversation brought us to reminiscing on the beautiful day we had had in these Emerald Towns, and we made plans for multiple overnights this summer, all of which will include visiting

the businesses we missed this time around and checking out more hiking trails.

With just a few minutes of twilight left, we hit the road for home, basking in the stunning day trip we just fulfilled.

If we learned anything on this trip, it’s that the Emerald Towns of the Peninsula have much more to offer than oysters. The food, outdoor recreation, community of locals and especially dazzling views are strong draws for those who have yet to visit. 

BRINNON SHRIMPFEST

It looks like the Brinnon Shrimpfest is back on for 2019!

After taking a hiatus in 2018, volunteers have regrouped for the Memorial Day Weekend festival.

Set for May 25 and 26, this familyfriendly event boasts great food and fun.

Visit brinnonshrimpfest.org for more information.

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THE LIVING END

The legacy of Harmonica Guy By the Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith

D

riving up U.S. Highway 101 along the Hood Canal is the quintessential Olympic Peninsula experience.

Vistas of shimmering water on the right, landscapes of dense forests and lofty mountain peaks to the left, and everywhere, sunlight or mist finding ways through the tall trees. Curving roads bring surprises along the way that invite the adventurous spirit out to play.

It was along this beautiful road that my husband and I traveled 16 years ago when we arrived on the Olympic Peninsula to make our home in Port Townsend — quite different from the concrete highways and traffic jams of the Dallas-Fort Worth, Texas, metroplex whence we had departed.

Feeling embraced by the wonders of nature and excited about new possibilities, we wound our way like explorers in a new world. What would this new life bring?

It was our literal hunger that reminded us to stop as we journeyed. A casual local restaurant in Brinnon welcomed us for lunch before we made the last leg of the trip into Port Townsend.

Sitting down at a wooden table, we heard interesting conversations around us about an orca that had slid up onto a nearby beach to catch a seal for lunch. This was quite a different conversation from what we’d hear in Dallas, so we were fascinated, and our sense of a new world was quickened.

A little while later, the door opened and an older, roughhewn man came in.

He had a craggy face etched with life experiences and lit by the pale mossygreen-blue eyes of a youthful spirit.

His worn clothes hung loosely from his slender frame, born of seeming serious

illness. He ordered a coffee and made his way though empty tables to join us at ours.

Surprised, we introduced ourselves and thus, we were blessed to cross paths with one of North Hood Canal’s greatest treasures: Andy Mackie.

Known as the Harmonica Guy, Andy instantly became our friend, as he did with so many.

His light Scottish brogue reflective of his birthplace spoke of his life journey.

He’d begun to play music at age 5 and believed that music could change the world.

All children deserved to be encouraged to explore the gifts of hope that music brings. Andy had dedicated his life to that calling and told us all about what had happened.

His real story began with health challenges that may face most of us.

But his took a unique turn, drawn forward by an inner dedication that was his “true north.”

Having had numerous heart attacks and cardiac surgeries, Andy accepted that his life was near completion.

He stopped taking all 15 of his prescribed medications and used that money to leave a legacy of the music that had inspired his life.

He bought harmonicas by the dozen to gift to local children, along with free lessons starting with one kindergarten class. This was a small act in a large world, but it made all the difference.

By the end of his life many years later, Andy was a local icon. He was beloved in local schools where he personally taught numerous children how to play the harmonica. He would engage one class to teach another, and he built his legacy so wide and deep that the Andy Mackie Foundation was formed.

He was a beloved presence in local parades, as he would march surrounded by children of all ages playing their instruments.

He even broke a Guinness World

Andy Mackie, center, celebrates with friends shortly after breaking the Guinness World Record for the World’s Largest Harmonica Band at the Northwest Folklife Festival in Seattle on May 29, 2005, with 1,706 official participants. Photo courtesy of The Andy Mackie Music Foundation Record at the 2005 Seattle Folk Life Festival when he and 1,706 of his students played “Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star” on harmonicas together.

But even this wasn’t enough. Andy began using a portion of his Social Security income to buy materials to have children create their own three-string guitars that he called “strum sticks.”

Thus, children all over the Hood Canal area began expanding their musical repertoire.

Older children taught younger ones in an ever-expanding circle.

It was over a decade later when he finally returned to Spirit. By then, he had gifted more than 20,000 harmonicas and 5,500 strum sticks.

PBS even did a special that included him as a transformer of the world through music.

All of that began with one man, a love of music and vision of possibilities. It was his true heartbeat; a living expression of Mother Teresa’s famous saying, “It’s not about doing great things, it’s about doing small things with great love.”

How deeply that resonated with Andy was reflected in a story he shared that day in Brinnon.

He’d survived yet another heart surgery to the surprise of the doctors.

They gathered by his bed as he began his recovery, and he took out his harmonica and played “Amazing Grace” to thank them all.

Surgeons don’t often tear up, but they were all deeply moved by this

man’s spirit. If true heart function was measured by given and received love, his was truly exceptional.

Andy Mackie had a carved wooden plaque that summarized his approach to life and to this final chapter in his.

“Live simply. Laugh often. Love Deeply.” was etched into the wood that came from the forest around him, and these words were etched into the fabric of his being.

These three simple phrases were his mantra. Like the trees that surrounded him, Andy stood tall and strong even when battered by gale force winds.

His heritage reached deep into the ground of his Scottish roots and the love of music that his mother instilled from his birth. He grew skyward even when struck with near fatal wounds.

Now his legacy reaches high and wide into the very life of the Hood Canal, like evergreen branches of living music.

Andy once said, “If you give it away, you keep it forever.”

As you drive up Highway 101, I invite you to see not only the scenic beauty that surrounds you, but also to hear the distant strains of harmonicas and strum sticks filling the air. Those melodies are there. The music of the soul we loved as Andy continues, reminding us that the most humble looking people around us may be offering the richest gifts of all.  The Rev. Pam Douglas-Smith is the minister at the Unity Spiritual Enrichment Center in Port Townsend who leads international spiritual pilgrimages.

Contact her at revpam@unitypt.org.

Spring 2019 Living on the Peninsula

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