AU/NZ
Vol02.Ed09 > WINTER 2013 > au/nz
DRYING IN MOTION
THE NEW STANDARD IN SWEAT REMOVAL AND TEMPERATURE REGULATION FlashDry molecular drying technology acts like your second skin, pushing moisture to the surface of the fabric and eliminating it. During high-endurance activities, FlashDry works with your body to keep you dry, cool and focused. Find out more about FlashDry THENORTHFACE.COM.AU For stockists info, visit us online or call PH: 02 8306 3311
ANDREW LEE GETS ONE LAST RUN IN BEFORE THE NORTH FACE 100 IN BLUE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK. PHOTO: MARK WATSON BETTER THAN NAKED CREW AND SHORTS, AND ULTRA GUIDE SHOES.
WINTER 2013
Trail Run is published quarterly > Winter / Spring / Summer / Autumn
Minimalist/Barefoot Editor > Garry Dagg Roving Editor > Mal Law
Editorial correspondence > Trail Run Magazine 9 Pickworth Drive, Anglesea, Vic 3230 Telephone > +61 (0) 430376621
Contributing Writers > Luke Tyburski , Mal Law, Margaretha Fortmann, Roger Hanney, Grant Guise, Olivier Caire, Tegyn Angel, Lloyd Belcher, Rachel Jacqueline
AU NZ
Editor, Australia > Chris Ord chris@trailrunmag.com Editor, New Zealand > Vickie Woolley Editor, Asia > Rachel Jacqueline Advertising > Adrian Bortignon adrian@adventuretypes.com Design > The Bird Collective > Heidi + Peter Hibberd PO Box 80, Sassafras Victoria 3787 www.thebirdcollective.com.au Disclaimer > Trail running and other activities described in this magazine can carry significant risk of injury or death. Especially if you are unfit. Undertake any trail running or other outdoors activity only with proper instruction, supervision, equipment and training. The publisher and its servants and agents have taken all reasonable care to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication and the expertise of its writers. Any reader attempting any of the activities described in this publication does so at their own risk. Neither the publisher nor any of its servants or agents will be held liable for any loss or injury or damage resulting from any attempt to perform any of the activities described in this publication, nor be responsible for any person/s becoming lost when following any of the guides or maps contained herewith. All descriptive and visual directions are a general guide only and not to be used as a sole source of information for navigation. Happy trails.
Visit us online > www.trailrunmag.com www.facebook.com/trailrunmag www.twitter.com/trailrunmag www.youtube.com/user/trailrunnerausnz
Primary photography > Heidi Hibberd / The Bird Collective > www.thebirdcollective.com.au Photography > Lyndon Marceau > www.marceauphotography.com Luke Tyburski, Richard Bull, George Chong, Shinpei Koseki, Sanpixs Imaging Singapore, Patchanida Pongsubkarun, Running Wild NZ > www.runningwildnz.com Matt Judd > www.juddadventures.com.au Lloyd Belcher Visuals > www.lloydbelchervisuals.photoshelter.com Tegyn Angel, Phil Platt, Roger Hanney, Olivier Caire
DESIGNED FOR FREEDOM Go there, faster. Everything we make is designed to enable greater freedom of movement in the mountains. The result is lightweight, ergonomic gear for the most liberated outdoor experiences. See more at www.salomon.com/au For your nearest stockist, free call 1800 651 872
Cover Image > Lyndon Marceau / Heidi Hibberd Brendan Davies hopscotching through a tangle of Tarawera undergrowth at the Tarawera 100 in New Zealand. He finished fourth. Photo by Lyndon Marceau > www.marceauphotography.com Foundation supporters > (the Yay-sayers) Running Wild nz > www.runningwildnz.com Trail Running Company > www.trailrunningcompany.com Mainpeak > www.mainpeak.com.au Salomon au > www.salomon.com/au Sea To Summit > www.seatosummit.com Brooks / Texas Peak > www.brooksrunning.com.au The North Face > www.thenorthface.com.au COPYRIGHTŠ SALOMON SAS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PHOTOGRAPHER: SCOTT MARKEWITZ. LOCATION: MARIN HEADLANDS, CALIFORNIA.
Founders > Chris Ord / + Stuart Gibson + Mal Law + Peter & Heidi Hibberd Publisher > Adventure Types 9 Pickworth Drive, Anglesea Vic 3230
contents 8. Editors’ Columns > Australia, New Zealand, Asia
TRAI L MIX 26. Event preview > Night Trail Series Auckland, NZ 28. Event preview > Big Red Run, Queensland 100. Trail Porn > It’s dirtier than ever
FEATU R E S 38. Miler High Club > Tegyn Angel joins it at Northburn 48. Trail Destination > Pearl of the Orient, Hong Kong 66. Himalaya’s hidden talent > Upendra Sunuwar 76. One Step Beyond the Heaphy > book excerpt with Mal Law 84. Kung Fiji Master > Grant Guise in Japan
R E VIEWS 14. Now’s A Good Time to Buy > The best in winter kit 24. Nutrition review > The good dirt on Pocket Fuel 92. Shoe Review > From sensitive soles to golden delights
I N TERVIEWS 30. Profile > Summit Sister Jo Brischetto on juggling trails, work and family 58. Profile > Andre Blumberg, Trail King of Kong
T r a il Gu id es 110. Lake Angelus > New Zealand 112. Springbrook National Park > Queensland 114. Phia Valley > New Zealand 116. Wisemans Ferry > New South Wales
Damian Smith approaching the summit of Mt Bogong during the 100 mile La Sportiva Alpine Challenge, Victoria, Australia. Photo by > Stephen Upton www.runningwild.net.au/alpine-challenge 6
Fun Running “I know it is wet and the sun is not sunny, but we can have lots of good fun that is funny.” — Dr. Seuss, The Cat in the Hat. “That was a fun run.” But what’s the meaning of ‘fun’? Aside from a cat in a hat, other potentially dubious online references tell us that: “Fun is the enjoyment of pleasure, particularly in leisure activities. Fun is an experience - short-term, often unexpected, informal, not cerebral and generally purposeless. It is an enjoyable distraction, diverting the mind and body from any serious task.” Where does our trail running fit into that? Nearly every trail run (but not every one) I do will be punctuated with: “That was awesome fun!” Yet, usually I’m hurting, tired, sore. Not the kind of things stereotypically associated with fun. And picking apart the above definition as it may or may not relate to a singletrail junkie, trail running can absolutely be cerebral – in fact trail running’s requirement for heightened cerebral activity (lest you eat dirt), is one of my favourite aspects. Think: about foot placement, strategise about pace, monitor your body’s performance, muse about life, wonder how old that gigantic gum tree is… Purposeless? That’s a sticky one – some of my best trail runs have had absolutely no purpose. Tick for fun. Not fitness, not PBs, not training, not conditioning…they have been driven purely by the urge to be floating along a sublime piece of singletrack with a smile on my dial. The imagining of that scenario has been the only impetus for me to kit up, head out and fulfill the imagining. Purposeless running rocks my world. “Diverting the mind and body from any serious task”? Well, trail running can be pretty serious when you’ve been out in the bush for hours, it’s dark, your headlamp is powering down and you’ve run out of water (damn…forgot to think through your run prior to heading out, now my body is suffering). Some trail running – especially adventure runs – can be very serious indeed.
Image > Running TNF 50 > Mark Watson > www.inciteimages.com
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aUstralian Ed’s letter > chris ord
But in that, there can be fun.
Exhibit A: an afternoon atop Mount Buffalo in Victoria, Australia, with some trail buddies. Studying topo maps, we noticed a ‘route only’ trail that according to the topography markings dropped more than one kilometer in less than five kilometres. The Holy Grail (in Australia): the Vertical Kilometre run that most pundits reckon doesn’t exist in this country of hillocks. We were duty bound to run it, despite the fading light. Drop off the top of the Buffalo escarpment and fast forward three hours. No trail. We’d been belting through thick wilderness, a headlamp had failed, water had run dry and we were still stuck on the side of a mountain getting sucked down dead end valleys. Shit started getting serious. Even so, popping out onto foothill farmland in pitch blackness, four and a half hours and only 10km after dropping off the top, dehydrated, our bodies torn to shreds, we almost skipped down the road waiting for our pick up. There was not, except for the final paddock dash through a herd of confused cows, really any running involved: it was all scramble, fall and navigate. And a lot of thinking our way out of trouble. Damn it was a fun run, though. And therein lies the Big Fun found in running trails: each step can be serious or flippant, with purpose or with abandon, in a race or all alone, in pain or painfree, mindfully or mindlessly (watch the root): trail running can be a bit of everything, a lot of something and sometimes a lot of nothing. For me, it’s the childhood thing: it just is and I just do it because it feels good (even when it feels bad). I’m with American poet Robert Frost (who may or may not have been a trail runner): “So was I once myself a swinger of birches. And so I dream of going back to be.” Too cerebral? How about: “It ain’t no fun if the homies can’t have none.” – Snoop Dogg. Get some. Ed on da trails,
Chris ORD, AU Editor chris@trailrunmag.com
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Tool time I forget who first described me as “stubbornly naive” but I loved the phrase and have adopted it as a kind of philosophy. Being stubbornly naive allows me to feel outraged and indignant about injustices that might provoke a mere shrug and a “life sucks” response from a more cynical Vicki. So when I heard that someone tried to blow up a bunch of runners – RUNNERS?? – I was absolutely mortified. This turn of events was a two-run job: a solo affair to think through events and form a perspective, then a social run with friends who would curve and refine that point of view with robust discussion. You see, running is not just my ‘sport’ - it’s the TOOL I use to manage my life. The physical benefits are far-reaching and thanks to the efforts of people like trail-running advocate Mal Law, more and more people are turning to running for the intangible benefits. I suspect many of you also ‘use’ running as thinking time, problem-solving time, time spent away from stressors, an opportunity to harmonise with nature. ‘Active relaxation’ and ‘active meditation’ are relatively new concepts strongly promoted by the Dalai Lama and our own John Kirwan, and fitting for our modern frenetic way of life. However, I strongly believe that in order for a tool to be effective, you have to be passionate about the one you choose. If trail running (or running in general) is another demand you need to fit into your life – then it isn’t going to happen. If it is part of your strategy for living – then you will have no trouble lacing up and bouncing out the door! Run to work (cross-country, of course)... run the dog... run to the cinema or a friend’s for dinner (pick good friends who love you even when you are smelly and sweaty). I digress. The bombing of the Boston Marathon is just one of many assaults upon humanity that has occurred within our lifetime, so I wondered why this incident had my nerves jangling. I run.
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nz Ed’s letter > vicki woolley
I discuss it with my peers, and it gradually dawns that the people targeted in this instance are MY people. Sure, I run mostly trail – but let’s be honest: we all do the odd marathon or quick after-work 10km around the block, or roadie when we are injury-conscious, tapering or recovering from an off-road trail event. The Boston marathoners run for many of the same reasons we do. They are addicted to the same drug we have chosen. We have all crossed a finish line to resounding support from people we love: our parents, partners, friends, family: our CHILDREN have stood where 8-yr-old Martin Richard was standing, waiting proudly for his Dad to come in. This is a subset of OUR community... and I begin to understand how coldly strategic these assaults are, undertaken by people who have a deep understanding of the way communities function, and how to cut the legs out from under them. Well. It was effective in rendering an enormous amount of people vulnerable: I watched the 6o’clock News with my sons, who tearfully begged me to stop running. Stop running? NEVER!! But not in defiance of the Boston Bombers, or those responsible for the Mothers Day massacre, or any other tormented souls determined to secure their place by the fire in the afterlife. Running is as much a part of my life as brushing my teeth: hitting the trail feeds my soul, restores my sanity, and is a connection of profound value with old and new friends, wild and beautiful places. So although I do have a renewed sense of vulnerability, it is far from defeatist: rather I am more determined to make a conscious choice to live each moment the best way I know how: to treat family and friends with love and respect; to support our community; to honour the environment. To value life. And to RUN.
Vicki Woolley, NZ EDITOR info@trailrunmag.com
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Asian (Adventure) Attitude Adventure can strike in the strangest of places. Take Hong Kong, for example. The global city - better known for boozing, business and overindulgence - is exposed in this edition as an unusual trail running Mecca, worshipped daily by a clan of dedicated local runners. It’s also home to some of the seriously adventurous, pushing the limits of what seems humanly possible. There are other places (and races) on offer from your Asian neighbours that you’ve probably never even heard of, too. Thankfully, with the addition of Asia to the fodder Trail Run Mag will cover moving forward, you will be transported from your couch/bus seat/bed right to these new mysterious trails, just a plane ride away. You are set to meet some curious new faces and some future legends-in-the-making. (It only took them nine editions, but thanks for including us guys). Your long weekend holidays will never be the same again – we promise. And you can kiss goodbye to your typical Bali beachfests, snoozy Vietnam getaways or Bangkok blowouts. So sit back, relax and start planning: we’re going to chuck you knee-deep in some exotic trail running porn. Starting now. (Oolala!!) But for you hardcore trailites (you’re so hardcore, you’re even reading this editorial), we also know this is going to cause some dilemmas. With so many races already on the local agenda, how can your bursting bucket list tolerate new additions? What can be removed from the budget to allow for the additional travel you’re going to need to take? How can you convince your boss you should take MORE annual leave? And how do you say “fuck I’m lost”, “where’s the next checkpoint” and “where can I get some water” - vital trail run speak – in the local language?
Image > Lloyd Belcher > lloydbelchervisuals.photoshelter.com
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aSIAN Ed’s letter > Rachel Jacqueline
Something’s gotta give someday, right? As the world gets smaller, trail running gets bigger and the lines between the possible and impossible get blurred, it can become all too tempting at times
to pack it all in, don the shoes and get lost in all the different corners of the world. Heck, if Dakota can do it, why can’t you? Breathe. As the temptation to search out new adventures gets too overwhelming, the walls of your life too confining, just remember: adventure is not a destination, it’s a mindset. It’s about exploration – both internal and external – and finding your limits, then exceeding them. It’s an approach to life; adventure can be found in your own backyard if you look at it with a fresh pair of eyes. So while we at Trail Run Mag are all about stretching the wings and the toes and want to show you the best Asia Pacific has to offer in trail running adventures and adventurers, when you start going green with envy and sprouting mysterious little jungle ferns from your armpits, we want to remind you to take off your shoes, get your feet in some dirt and remember the basics: adventure is what you make of life. Adventure is an attitude. Go out and run old trails with a new zest; run new ones with the reckless abandon you once had when you couldn’t tie up your own shoelaces and life was much simpler. Get a new group of mates together; or reunite an old gathering and set off on new routes. Get in the car. Get on a train. And if you are lucky enough, get on that plane. Adventure can strike in the strangest of places. Just sometimes you gotta turn around and pick up the other end of the adventure stick, and start whacking it about. Who knows what trails you might uncover along the way. Lots of trail love and all that mushy stuff from your new ed based outta Asia,
Rachel JACQUELINE, ASIAN Editor info@trailrunmag.com
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gear > a good time to buy…WINTER KIT
MONTANE
Winter KIT Some runners baulk at the first snap of winter.
The bite of cold, frost and rain; even some snow…it tends to dissuade. We refer of course to road runners. Us trailites, well, we just get on with it and rejoice in the sting of a heavy shower on the face, knowing the ground will get muddy, and we’ll be like little dirt-pigs, perhaps even ‘accidentally falling’ to cover ourselves properly in the grimy, slimy stuff. Or is that just me?
Hyena Jacket
Beanie
RRP AU$239
RRP AU$45
At the heart of this jacket’s high-end comfort factor is its Polartec Powershield material: brushed and warm inside but abrasion, wind and water resistant on the outer. While not a run-specific jacket (it’s been designed for all-mountain, allactivity), it lends itself to the trails with its ability to regulate temperature while keeping all but the worst wind and rain at bay. Match to a lightweight Montane waterproof jacket, and a wicking tee underneath and you have an ideal winter run kit for the torso. Notable features include soft-lined collar, velcro cuffs, mesh pockets that with zips open double as ventilation, drawstring hem, rugged seam stitching and a stretch fabric panel finish that allows for the rigors of constant movement while adding breathability under arms. Perfect for those crisp morning runs.
Warm. What more do you need?
Point is, we like running in Nature (yes, capital ‘N’ – show some respect), and never do you feel her raw, wild moods more than when there’s a squall whipping at your heels and around your head. Enjoy it. But dress for it… Here’s a few pages for all you gear junkies, featuring some clobber perfect for this winter, leaving no excuses for not getting out there.
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gear > a good time to buy…WINTER KIT
MONTANE Batpack 6 RRP AU$75
Sonic Ultra T-Shirt RRP AU$69 Bright, light and barely there comfortable. Wicks well. ‘Nuff said. It’s a tee perfect for running. A larger fit for those who like it a bit looser.
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If you’re more a belt runner than a backpack runner, this could be for you. With two lightweight bottles slung like six shooters either side, there’s a bunch of room in the zip compartment, plus a secondary smaller zip pocket for more goodies to see you through those (hundred) miles. The real smarts is in the tension system that rips in either side to get best fit plus vertically to compact the kit as you empty it of nutrition or you’ve taken a rain jacket out and want to stop any gear shift. The V-waist strap pulls the tension evenly around reducing movement on waist, the Contact Mesh used for against body padding is super comfy and less prone to rub, and elastic toggles keep the flip top 800ml bottles in. My only suggestion would be better quality bottles but the bottle pockets will fit most regular replacements of your choosing. Great for adventure runs, too, where you need extra capacity to a backpack.
Trail Tights RRP AU$119 Leggings are leggings, right? For the most part, yes, but this pair stacked up better than any other I have worn running – warmer and most importantly, no chafe. The Nylon-elastine material was super comfy, dried quickly and a built-in gusset kept everything rub-free. Keep in mind these are for warmth and protection, not compression. Zip bottoms meant whipping them off when things got hot was cinch over shoes and the rubberised ankle hems mean they don’t ride up. A panel construction provided more breathability where needed and protection where it mattered most. The only niggle was that the external hems did fray a little – but that was after four hours in the roughest, off-trail wilderness you could imagine. These are so good, I’m heading out to buy another pair.
Trail Star Jacket RRP AU$99 You know those chill early morning runs where the wind can nip but you know halfway through, you’ll start generating body heat again? This is the jacket for those type of runs. Super lightweight and tiny when scrunched and packed, the Star is for when you need to dissipate heat and perspiration in conditions that are still too cold to strip back to just a tee. The jacket’s Aeroflyte fabric is the key and a durable water repellent finish beads off the rain in light showers
(anything heavier you’ll get wet). Articulated arms allow free body movement during fast-paced descents. Lycra-bound cuffs are wide enough to be pulled up over forearms to aid cooling and thumb loops add glove comfort options. Only 152g (M).
Stockist > For all Montane trail run gear check out www.mainpeak.com.au
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gear > a good time to buy…WINTER KIT
ICEBREAKER Run Cushion Mini Sock
Blast Jacket RRP AU$299.95
Sprint Leggings RRP AU$129.95 The thought of merino (rather than some man-made fabric) leggings had me cocking an eyebrow. But pulling these on, they are slinkier than you think and with 200gm merino, warm as toast. They do resemble (and essentially are) base layer thermals, so wear shorts on top, fellas…(the ladies will thank you). Could be a good match to waterproof overpants (see Salomon gear page over) in cold and wet conditions.
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AC Quantum Glove RRP AU$44.95 Cold hands equals no-fun run. Ergo, gloves. You think they are a luxury (and I guess they are if you’re talking first world vs. rest of world) until you actually say to yourself, goddam it, I’m glovin’ up this morning, to hell with what names the trailite brothers will call me. And then there’s no going back…
There’s a saying ‘the duck’s nuts’. The Blast is not, as it happens, made from duck’s nuts, nor for that matter from merino sheep nuts, but it is bang on the sentiment behind the saying: that is, one of the best things for cold weather running. The polyester front does a bang-up job blocking the fiercest of wind, while the 39 per cent merino, 45 per cent nylon and 16 per cent elastane back, with airvent included, allows for decent breathability given its heavier weight for a run shell. The polyester extends down the tops of the sleeves to help keep arms dry. While not waterproof, water does bead off it in anything up to a light shower. And of course the merino stays smell-free after hours of running and the stretch construction means a full range of torso motion is trouble free. Thumb loops would have been a great addition, but otherwise becoming a go-to as we head into the extreme winter period during which the trail still beckons.
Pocket Hat RRP AU$29.95 Warm. Reversible. Two colours for the price of one.
RRP AU$29.94
Flexi Chute
Socks that last. And tone down the stink. Ahhhh merino…
RRP AU$39.95 A Merino version of the headsweats that are almost de riguer on trails these days – I never hit a trail without one. This one’s warmer than most. I twist onto my wrist as a sweatband (sounds so Xanadu, I know) and then use as either a neck warmer or beanie when the going gets really cold.
Relay Short Sleeve Crewe RRP AU$149.95 150gm merino keeps things snug (or in summer, actually keeps you cool) with a little Lycra for better fit. Eyelet mesh panels provide extra breathability, raglan sleeves give ease of movement, and flatlock seams prevent chafing. A super comfy tee, although not so sure about “keep(ing) your keys in the handy back pocket.” A gel: perfect.
Pursuit Half Zip Long sleeve top RRP AU$179.95 Specifically designed for cold weather workouts, this technical base layer is made from 260gm merino with a little Lycra for the perfect fit. Features include zip neck collar for temperature control, anti-chafe seams, and underarm gusset for comfort and freedom of movement. Combined with the Relay Crewe, it was the perfect set up for a dry but snowy run on a freezing mountaintop in Victoria’s High Country. Yep, two merino layers were all that was needed.
Stockist > For all Icebreaker trail run gear check out www.icebreaker.com
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gear > a good time to buy…WINTER KIT
SALOMON Bonatti Waterproof Jacket RRP AU$199.99 Everyone’s on the hunt for an ultra event-legal but super lightweight waterproof jacket, right? And while there are plenty of lightweight (190g) water-resistant or wind proofers out there – all great in their own category - there’s not much that comes close to this beauty. Ridiculously lightweight, the Bonatti scrunches to fist size, and shuts down the wet to gain the ‘proof’ tag. Features include seam seals, stretchy, breathable Climapro material for comfort during rigorous activity, thumb holds, stash chest pocket, large zip for gloved use and elastic in the hood to keep it in place on the move. A winner.
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XT Wings Glove RRP AU$49.99 Perfect for those bitterly cold winds that make your fingers feel like an elephant is standing on them, these light weight gloves feature a reinforced palm for durability while carrying poles, and a rain cover that stows into the back of the glove. Ideal for unpredictable conditions where you still need quick access to finger dexterity. Worked a treat in the icy conditions of Mount Hotham.
Speedcross 3 with Climashield
Bonatti Water proof Pants
RRP AU$179.99
RRP AU$129.99 Admittedly I was skeptical at the thought of waterproof pants for running. ‘Shwip, shwip, shwip…’ Annoying. So I was truly surprised at how good these were – kept legs dry, breathed some, and no real ‘shwip’ sounds. Used in tough whiteout snow conditions in the High Alps, their super-lightweight nature meant,
apart from the odd need to hitch ‘em back up the waist, I forgot I was wearing them. Featuring zip entry ankles, drawstring waist, and seam sealed, they are an awesome bit of kit for any wet weather task where staying wet for too long is not an option.
The Speedcross has been one of the mainstay bush bulldozer go-tos for a while now, their super aggressive grip and race-orientated design favoured by mud-munchers across the world. The 3 version’s upgrades include a roomier toe and a slight drop in the heel to toe, but otherwise the shoe maintains its role as a durable, fairly lightweight racer for super tricky trail conditions.
The most noticeable advance in the CS version is the addition of Climashield, a half-foot protective lining that keeps the forefeet drier (and warmer) in the slop of winter. Nothing will keep your feet waterproof when it comes to footwear and in trail running nor should you want it to, but pegging through the snow in Falls Creek, these were the perfect option, giving grip, warmth and keeping my foot moisture free longer. The fit is snug as a racer should be, with a still-traditional approach to the midsole taking in a 9mm heel to toe drop with plenty of cushioning and a decent heel height which some may find plays on stability. This is no shoe for hard, flat fire trails, the lugs becoming noticeable as they bump in under your foot when the going is smooth and solid underneath. Rather this is the go-to for super technical and slippery conditions where terrain is ever changing. In fact, you could almost play football in them.
Stockist > For all Salomon trail run gear check out
www.salomon.com/au
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gear > a good time to buy…WINTER KIT
There’s been equal amounts hoo-haa (a.k.a. whingeing) and hallelujah in Gear Geek World about the launch of the Ambit 2 and 2S GPS watches. As with any technology, the kerfuffle centres on launch dates and product cycles: it’s hard to pick when to take the plunge and purchase. Do you wait for version 2.0 or hang til 3.0? But then 4.0 is only a year or so away … and so on, in the iAnything mold. Typically, if you purchased an outgoing model just prior to its younger sleeker brother birthing on stands, you’re in the disgruntled brigade, and if you held out, or your old GPS unit died just as the marketing push began, you’re a happy camper. But as with any ongoing cycle of technology, there’s never a good time to buy. The next model is always just around the corner no matter when you dump your cash. So put a halt to your FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out) and concentrate on the useability factor instead. Simply stated, the old Ambit will continue to do the damn good job it was always hailed for before the 2 was launched earlier this year. So be happy. Even if you just bought the original model. It’s still a great unit. That said, helllooooo Ambit 2, you sleek little devil, you. Main change: the Ambit 2S has a lost a few features (barometric sensor for one), a few grams, a bit of bulk, some battery life and a whack of pricetag. It’s built more for sport and less for ‘explorers’. The ‘S’ is for specialisation and sports like swimming, running, cycling, and multisports… The Ambit 2, however, retains the battery life and the inclusion of barometric sensors, essentially keeping the explorer and ultra-distance endurance athlete happy and maintaining its place as the apex GPS watch predator.
The main upgrade across both new units is the ‘app’-ification – the ability to bolt on or even program software to drive and get more useability from your watch according to what you use it for and what data you want to extract from your activity. Both units now accept 50 pre-configurable apps whereas the original could only handle 10 (max of one assigned per each sport on the unit). The Ambit2 features both barometric and GPSbased altitude settings in what they dub a FusedAlti measurement that will keep Vert Kilometre fiends sated.
atelier ésope chamonix - © photographies pascal tournaire et Yosuke Kashiwakura
SUUNTO Ambit 2 & 2S “ Share my passion”
“When I grow-up, I want to be a Finisher !...”
Suunto apps add to the offering via plug-ins that provide sunrise/sunset times, tidal info, and storm warnings. Mind you, the Ambit 2S, while losing the accuracy of barometric gauging, retains a GPS-based altitude read, so you will still get a decent figure for your hard-earned gain on Mother Earth. Downside: you lose battery life, down to 8 hours on trail-running preferred (and default) one-second monitoring. But the unit is lighter, slimmer and less expensive. Both units have Heart Rate Monitor add-ons with the Ambit 2 offered in a special Sapphire design at the top end of pricing.
Ambit 2 > RRP AU$550-$700 Ambit 2S > RRP $450-$500
The North Face® Ultra Trail du Mont-Blanc®, is a celebration born from the desire to share the passion for Trail-running, where there are 6000 trailer runners at the start of one of the 4 races, supported by their family, friends, volunteers and inhabitants of the Pays du Mont-Blanc.
August 26th – September 1st 2013
www.ultratrailmb.com
www.ultratrail.tv
More than a sporting event, a true human adventure to be shared…
www.facebook.com/SuuntoAustraliaNZ www.suunto.com 22
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Nutrition review>
Pocket Fuel
Other Products>
When it comes to nutrition, debates rage, theories abound on how the machine we call the body takes on and processes fuel, and when the best timing is for taking on board various fuel elements according to activity. To date it seems there is some science but little agreement, the only consensus being that each individual has to experiment to discover what works for them. I’ve long found that a banana eaten just prior to my trail runs and one about ten minutes or so in works a treat, my thinking that ‘real’ foods works for better me than processed, hyper-lab developed substitutes. Well, as long as I can keep the real foods down, that is. And so here we have an all-natural product that works a treat as part of the nutritional kit bag for those seeking a natural alternative to slimy gels. Based on nut butters – peanut, hazelnut and almond depending on flavour – these PocketFuels pack upwards of 450 calories per 85g reuseable pouch (or upwards of 350 calories in a 50g pouch), making them an excellent choice for long bouts on the trail.
50g > NZ$4.99 / 84g > NZ$7.50 5-pack (50g) > NZ$22.95 10-pack (50g) > NZ$43.95 Available online Down Under via the Backcountry Runner Shop found at www.backcountryrunner.co.nz Further information at: www.pocketfuelnaturals.com
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Packed with ‘whole food’ ingredients that mix nut pastes with raw sugar/cane juice, oils, seeds and sea salt, each satchel serves up a bunch of B vitamins, minerals and electrolytes including potassium, manganese, calcium, iron, magnesium, zinc, selenium and sodium. These electrolytes are absorbed efficiently into the bloodstream, speeding fluid to your cells to refuel, rehydrate and replenish. Quick absorption is essential
for warding off fatigue, cooling the body and achieving peak performance. An average ratio of 2:1 carbohydrate to protein place these squarely in the pre and during run consumption category.
Smartwool Smartloft Jacket
There is no doubt that taste and texture take some getting used to but are, in the way natural foods can often be – addictive. Not all flavours will be for everyone, pending your palate, but there are enough across the range to suit most: Vanilla Haze, Chia Goji and Honey, Crunchy Banana and Blueberry, Chunky Coconut and Cherry, Pineapple Coconut, Chocolate Espresso, Chocolate Haze, Chocolate Smackeroon.
This innovative jacket from Smartwool is a new take on the down-style puffer jacket, albeit this set up is very much a mid-layer if you’re talking general wear in freezing conditions. But we’re talking specifically for trail running, which is where perhaps this jacket shines more so than for other adventure activities. The main sell is in the use of wool, or ‘Smartloft’, in place of regular down loft in the front torso section. The baffled front outer combined with the wool filling keeps you warm and blocks out the icy winds pummeling into you as you speed along on a crisp morning. Better than regular loft for high intensity workouts, it wicks moisture away much more efficiently. MerinoMax fabric on the arms and back offer more breathability and body temperature regulation and the regular benefit of merino wool warmth. Thumbholes provide hand comfort and useability with gloves in the cold. Hand warmer pockets are a plus as is the ‘media pocket’ on the chest. A hood would have been a good addition, it is bulkier than some for stashing and the price is on the higher end for a run jacket, but the performance on trail makes it a worthwhile addition to the winter run kit.
For this sweet tooth tester it was all about the fruit (banana, pineapple) and chocolate-based varieties. PocketFuels require a bit more water to consume then standard gels, and can be a bit gritty on first try. Stick with it, that grit in your mind becomes a pleasurable notion of munching real but easy to digest food. Like all nut butters, the oils tend to separate so you really need to massage the pack before opening, sometimes annoying if you’re on the hoof at pace, but fine for the slower paced ultras. Keeping an eye on the environment, the pouches are reusable (but hard to clean). For those with dietary restrictions, ingredients are gluten free and all flavors are vegan with the exception of the Chia Goji and Honey.
RRP AU$299
www.seatosummitdistribution.com.au
Acupro Acumat RRP AU$99 I know what you’re thinking, looking at those devilish spikes: S&M. Straight from the dungeon of pain, huh? Well, there’s a link, but no, this mat is not swiped from a local parlor of specialist disrepute, rather it is the latest implement in the war on post-run pain. The Acupro mat is a made to improve exercise recovery by releasing trigger points and knots in muscles, while also improving circulation and joint mobility, all while performing your regular stretching, pilates, yoga, or rehab routine. The pointed surface design
assists relaxation of muscles and improves circulation via acupressure (“passive ischaemic pressure”), much like getting a massage. The key is in the stimulation of muscle trigger nerve cells called “muscle spindles” or mechanoreceptors. These tell your brain how much tension is running through the muscle tissue, and when triggered the brain tells the muscle to “relax” which allows more circulation of blood, oxygen and electrolytes to the muscle cells which releases muscles and restores optimal tone. The active surface also challenges stability and proprioceptive pathways, triggering micro muscle reaction. Without a full muscle measurement lab kit, we can only go on the subjective experience of using the mat: essentially you feel like your stretch session has had a much bigger impact and walk away from more ‘released’ than if just performed on a flat surface. We think it works a treat.
www.acupro.com.au
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trail event preview > INOV8 NIGHT RUN SERIES, NEW ZEALAND
Here’s something different: dirty dashes in the dark. There’s something different, more exciting about running at night. Don the head torch, and sharpen the senses as you blast through the bush with nary but a tunnel of light to pick out that low hanging branch and that pop-up root underfoot. It’s trail running with adrenaline.
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Even better, and in true Total Sport style, there will be the added motivation of a hot sausage and cold Speight’s to bring you across the finish line.
The Inov8 Night Run Series by Total Sport is a perfect way to mix up your working week ‘hump day’, taking place on Wednesday evenings and in locations only 15-20mins from Auckland’s CBD.
19 June > Totara Park 10 July > Royal Albany Reserve 31 July > Roberta Reserve / Tahuna Torea Nature Reserve 21 August > Birkenhead Domain / Eskdal Park
There are four remaining events in the series, for all levels of fitness with very achievable (or bolt-able) 5-6km distances and loop courses.
www.trailrun.co.nz/nightrunseries
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THE GPS FOR ATHLETES
trail event preview > BIG RED RUN, QUEENSLAND
It’s shaping up to be the biggest multi day run event Australia has seen, not just in terms of the brutal distances and fire breathing terrain, but also the entertainment and entry list. The Big Red Run – an event with a big heart given its aim to raise money and awareness for Type 1 Diabetes – has attracted some of the most experienced trail and adventure runners to be found Down Under, including the Desert Queen herself, Lisa Tamati. Tamati’s experience racing across the Gobi, Sahara, Niger and a few other desert-scapes beside will come in handy not just for her own attempt to knock over the 250km/6-day monster, but also for one of trail land’s blazing young stars in Lucy Bartholomew, who will no doubt be a sponge to Tamati’s experience. Another young ultra gun in Matty Abel will be in the fray, looking to test his mettle in the sands and red ochre tracks of the Simpson Desert. He’ll be competing against a field from across the globe. The multiday course darts west from iconic Birdsville hopping between three camps with two out and back loop sections from two of them.
Despite the soft sandy PR imagery, most running is on terra firma with the multiday course described as “approximately 15% gibber plains, 75% firm surface sand (flat valleys and dunes), 5% loose sand on dune crests and 5% following the dry bed of Eyre Creek.” The daily breakdown is daunting: days 1-3 take in marathon distances, day four is the easy day at 31km before the Big Banger day five at 84km followed by a warm down 8km into the Birdsville Pub. There’s also 100km (held on day 5) and marathon distance (held on day 1). Multiday runners only carry a daypack while running with all main gear transported between camps. Big Red looks set to be Big Fun in the desert. Will become as iconic as Birdsville itself.
Big Red Run > 8-13 July www.bigredrun.com.au www.facebook.com/bigredrun
The Suunto Ambit2 S is designed to fuel your passion for sports. Latest GPS in a light and sleek design with advanced features for running, biking, swimming and more. Perform at your absolute best – every time, everywhere. Thousands of Suunto Apps available to add new features to your watch. Stay up to date at www.suunto.com Like us on facebook - www.facebook.com/SuuntoAustraliaNZ
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Finding jo According to some statistics, the trail running c o m m u n i t y h a s a d e f i n i t e f e m a l e s k e w. There is something about single track that is i n s p i r i n g w o m e n t o r u n w i l d . Fo r o w n e r o f t h e new Summit Sisters trail running outfit, Jo Brischetto, the journey onto dirt was one of rediscovering herself as much as the bush trails in her beloved Blue Mountains. H e r r e c e n t s e c o n d p l a c e a t T h e N o r t h Fa c e 1 0 0 shows it has been a rewarding undertaking.
Words > Margaretha Fortmann with Jo Brischetto Images > Lyndon Marceau www.marceauphotography.com
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Running behind my friend Jo, my feet follow a second after hers. I unconsciously copy her movements step-for-step as she nimbly hops from rock onto leafy trail, leading me through a dance with the earth.
“ I t i s e asy: I just put o n my s h o e s, g o fo r a run a nd i n stantly g et th e s o l i t u d e th at I c rav e”
Jo is light on her feet, delicately navigating the technical terrain. We hug the multi- hued cliffs close to Wentworth Falls, magnificent views our constant as we enjoy the rhythmic ups and downs, the steep stairs, and the trail cut into the sandstone. Jo stops. It is a section of trail where water cascades over us from above, light reflected in a million tiny drops. We are on the precipice looking out across the vast Jamison Valley towards Mt Solitary. Jo starts to cry. The stress of the day – the exhaustive business of motherhood, work, and illness – has been released. “This is what I love about trail running,” Jo sniffs. “Nowhere do I feel my emotions so raw, so close to the surface than when I am running.” With the pressure released she smiles, turns, and starts running again. Walking into Jo’s house is like venturing into the heart of a tornado. The chaos of three children under the age of eight, and the management of the school routine, soccer practice, sibling rivalry, chores and homework all collide into a fractious kaleidoscope of energy. Amid all this commotion Jo remains calm. “Trail running has played a huge part in providing me with the quiet I need to balance the business of my home life,” she says. “It is easy: I just put on my shoes, go for a run, and instantly get the solitude that I crave. The trails are peaceful; it’s just me and the bush.”
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For Jo, the trails have become more than just a place to get a little “me” time. They are a source of friendship, a place for selfdevelopment, and a way to work through emotions that previously challenged her. The bush has become her ultimate therapist.
Jo was born in Australia, but with a mother hailing from Belfast was very much raised in an Irish culture. Her family would travel to Ireland several times during her childhood, her younger memories a contrast between the brittle political reality of Belfast in the 1980’s and the laidback lifestyle of Sydney. “The visits to Ireland seemed quite ‘normal’ to me and I felt privileged to have two homes and two nationalities.” She continues slowly: “At the time we knew things were quite messed up over there. We had to be really wary, there were unspoken rules about which street you could walk down, soldiers patrolling neighbourhoods with machine guns, and on occasion we would wake up to bombs exploding in the night. During this time two of my family members were murdered.” Interpreting these events with the insight of a child made the world slightly scarier for Jo. “I don’t want to view my time in Ireland as traumatic, as some of my best memories were from there, but certain things were difficult to process as a child and even as an adult. Until recently I was really wary of being alone, and could not stand to be in the dark.” Jo pauses, and I feel as if she is waiting for me to laugh at this confession. The extent of Jo’s anxiety has only been known to her closest friends. She recalls a run several years ago, when she was traversing the rugged Mt Solitary with friends: “I heard a loud crack and felt pain shoot right up my leg.” This would later be diagnosed as a stress fracture, but in the moment Jo knew that she would have to cut her run short. Nevertheless, despite blinding pain, Jo did not want to admit to the group that she would be too scared to take the shorter route by herself. Instead, she continued on another 20km with her friends, on her broken leg, all to avoid being alone.
“ wh e n I Hi t th e tra i l s i t t e ac h es m e to not o n ly be o k ay w i th b ei ng by m ys el f, b ut th at i t i s a co m pl ete g i f t ”
“It’s only been through trail running that I have been able to challenge these fears,” she tells me. “When I run, particularly in a race, I need to be comfortable with the fact that I might be on my own and in the dark. I feel like running is such a great avenue to achieve that.” Over the last six months Jo has taken to the trails alone rather than with her usual crew of friends, gradually building up the confidence to run farther away from her local trails. “At first I did feel anxious,” she admits, “But I tried to target my focus onto specific things around me. I would listen for different sounds, staying present in what I was doing, enjoying the simplicity of running and remembering the reasons I was happy to be there.”
She recalls living a cycle of groundhog day: hours spent sitting on the front door step watching her son ride up and down the concrete path while nursing a newborn, still in her pyjamas, and wishing her husband would come home. “I don’t want to sound ungrateful as motherhood has been a blessing, but the reality was quite different to my expectations. My body and priorities shifted and I stopped valuing myself.” Jo was living next door to a well-known and successful triathlete. She recalls how her curiosity sparked every time she saw cars with bikes on the roof coming and going. The two women clicked.
Jo progressively gained ground against her fears. At last year’s TNF100, she ran the relay with a girlfriend, taking on the second 50km and running a few hours in the dark.
“’You need to shift your priorities and value yourself more,’ she would tell me,” says Jo. “Her greatest gift was to say: ‘You don’t deserve to come last.’”
[Editor’s Note > after this article was written, Jo placed second in the 2013 edition of The North Face 100]
Jo started running, and kilometre by kilometre the distance grew. Three months later she entered her first triathlon.
“There was a moment when I was alone, cramping, the stillness of the night around me. It was a situation I had feared for so long, and then when it actually happened I realised that I would be okay, and that next time I would probably be okay too,” she says.
“I still managed to do what I needed to do. By shifting my priorities I found time I didn’t think was there,” she says. “I started to build relationships with new like-minded people. I was able to connect with other mums who were exercising, and this opened up a whole new world to me.”
Jo and her friend would end up finishing as first female pair, setting a new record in their category.
Jo starts to laugh. “Now, I’m like the Tupperware lady trying to recruit women to the exercise lifestyle!”
“I’m still not great in the dark but that’s cool, I’m not afraid to work on it,” she reflects. “I also find that now I am starting to crave time alone. There are days when I hit the trails and it teaches me to not only be okay with being by myself, but that it is a complete gift.”
Trail running was the next step for Jo, as time constraints and training for 3 disciplines became more challenging. Jo recalls her first trail run, from Woodford to Glenbrook, and starts to laugh.
Despite being active growing up and studying a degree in human movement, marriage and two babies within eighteen months shook Jo’s world.
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“The wheels really fell off. I was young, I had two kids before the age of twenty-six, and found the whole experience of motherhood extremely challenging. Having post-natal depression didn’t help the experience.”
“I was told to bring a backpack...so I took a schoolbag along with some drink bottles. When I met up with the runners they found my pack hilarious. It was that day that I learnt my first trail-lesson: what a hydration pack is!”
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Jo’s passion for trail running started that day, inspired and encouraged by the runners who treated her like old friends. Physically, Jo found trail running kinder on the body. “You have to respect the toll that running on the road takes on your body. There is no variation in terrain; you use the same muscle groups, the impact is harder. Having had three kids my body has changed; my joints and ligaments are weaker. It’s really different running in the bush though. From a physical point of view I’ve had fewer injuries, and experienced less hip and joint pain.” Following on from the stress fracture injury in 2011, Jo started to practice Yoga to help with her recovery. She discovered that it didn’t just provide a time to escape from her busy life, it also complimented her running by strengthening her muscles and improving her flexibility. Upon returning to the trails, Jo won a series of events in quick succession, establishing herself as a strong and gutsy woman with a good amount of speed in her slender legs. She placed placed 2nd in The Great Volcanic Challenge, 2nd at the Glow Worm Tunnel Half Marathon, 1st at the Kanangra Classic Challenge (50km trail run/50km MTB), and 1st at the Glenbrook Trail Half Marathon (all New South Wales-based trail events). What should’ve been a time to celebrate a return to the trails became a source of stress instead. “As I started to win a few races I felt pressured to win. I’d be running, constantly looking over my shoulder thinking ‘keep running, keep running’. I finished those races feeling fearful.”
Jo pauses. She tries to articulate the emotions of the race, the contradictory feelings of winning and yet being disappointed. “Even though I won and everyone was happy for me, I came out of that race feeling like a failure.” With the realisation that she did not want to win if it meant feeling fearful, Jo took some time away from running again. She commenced a diploma in Yoga, and once again the practice helped her trail running. “Yoga taught me about the ego and about the detrimental effect that has on running. Now, when I race, of course I am competitive. But it is also fun and playful, almost like a game. I realised that being stressed about other people’s expectations will not make my legs faster. Now I am running to do my best and to push my body to the limit. Trail running has taught me that I can still be the best that I can be, but my motives for being on the trails, the thing that led me to run trails for the first time was a love of the bush, not a desire to win.” With this statement Jo smiles.
The La Sportiva Mountain Running® range springs from the desire to meet the needs of runners who want move quickly and easily around the mountains or on off-road tracks. The range has been inspired by the world of skyracing, ultra marathons and vertical kilometres. Today, La Sportiva products are seen on the feet of some of the best runners in the world and continue to be distinguished by their high level of innovation and unequalled performance. Whether it’s muddy and uneven ground, uphill running on hard terrain or marathons that last for days, for each challenge we have a specific product. All you have to do is run.
“I am taking each run as a gift,” she says, a declaration before an evening spent with her family, negotiating the balance of being a mother and a trail runner *
Jo Brischetto has teamed with well known trail runner, Team Salomon’s Gretel Fortmann, to create Summit Sisters, a company that “nurtures self-belief, encourages adventure and empowers women to discover their true capabilities,” through their trail running, adventure and retreat programs tailored for women.
www.summitsisters.com.au
ULTRA RAPTOR Neutral, stable, all terrain shoe with a forefoot rock guard and an ultra sticky rubber outsole geared towards all-day, long distance protection. Drop: 8mm
Weight: 686g per pair
ALL GROUNDS FRICTION XF
INJECTED MIDSOLE
HIGH VOLUME
Find out all the latest news about events, training, our team and more at mountainrunning.com.au 36
For your closest stockist contact Expedition Equipment
sales@expeditionequipment.com.au
02 9417 5755
expeditionequipment.com.au
Running your first ‘miler’ – 100 miles being the traditional ultra trail pinnacle – is a big undertaking. Most people start with ‘easy’ milers (knowing there is no such thing): events with less elevation gain, milder climates and less technical trails. But Tegyn Angel doesn’t do things the easy way. Instead, he took on the Northburn 100 in New Zealand, regarded as one of, if not the toughest, miler Down Under (with an elevation gain approaching that of Everest). Words > Tegyn Angel * Images > Tegyn Angel / Lyndon Marceau www.marceauphotography.com
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Going into my first miler In trying to compose my thoughts on the NB100, I’ve decided that Joy is paramount to the completion of something like this race. Thinking more about that, I know from experience that you can finish an ultra without any joy whatsoever. But I think it’s important to distinguish between finishing and completing a run or race. The former is simply getting to the finish line, a potentially hollow and unsatisfying experience, while the latter carries a certain weight of expectation and premeditated objective. For the sake of this definition, completing a race clearly involves finishing, but just finishing can fail to satisfy the holistic, broader goals a runner sets themselves; goals such as enjoying the mountains and wildness, spending time with friends, pitting yourself against hardship and adversity or setting a PB and so forth. Having worked my way up in distance, 100 miles seemed like the logical next step from a 100km. Of course I wanted a miler on my CV, but far more than just crossing a finish line 60km further down the road I sought another level of challenge. I was after an adventure and challenge described as a Mountain Ultra and a course respected for its
arduous climbs, unrelenting descents and wild weather. Looking back on the races I’ve most enjoyed, TNF100 (NSW), Razorback (Victoria) and Cradle (Tasmania) all stand out in my memory due to their elevation gains, spectacular scenery and their (sense) of wildness. In contrast, those that I’ve found more difficult or less enjoyable have been flat, fast and not technically challenging. Going in to NB100 I declared as loudly as I could, and to anyone that would listen, “I’ll just be happy to finish it!” this cry a disclaimer of sorts to smooth the way for any horribly slow time I might clock up or, God forbid, the possibility of a DNF. Fortunately, the NB100 was a gentle teacher, reminding me that there was far more to my goal of completing it than just a Finisher’s Buckle. More even than Cradle, with its tiny field, remote location, cult status and secretive bus trip, the NB100 was an adventure in the truest sense of the word: An unusual and exciting, typically hazardous, experience or activity, especially the exploration of unknown territory.
In the month or so between finishing the Northburn 100 (NB100) miler and writing this article I’ve become steadily more cognisant of just how much this race has affected me. It’s left me feeling content. “Complete” sounds like a toss, but normally my mind jumps violently into the future, jerking me along with it, rarely satisfied with the present, more likely to plan two, three, four races ahead, running away with itself, branching off on obtuse tangents with only the faintest thread of continuity or thematic congruence. And yet I now feel unusually satisfied. As if the 2kg Belt Buckle were a magical talisman hiding me from the blood-red eyes and filthy claws of FOMO (fear of missing out), self-deprecation and a barely understood need to push myself. I remember feeling the same way after travelling through India for the first time. 41
FURTHER. FASTER.
Running my first miler Standing at the start line, I think I’d stressed and worried myself into relaxation. I wasn’t quite as clear as I am now about my reasons for running it, but I felt the hard work was done and all I had to do now was put one foot in front of the other and find a way to enjoy the 30+ hours. I knew from a busy year of running that I didn’t want to enter any more flat races (anything less than about 1/25 fraction of gain/ distance e.g. 4km gain over 100km). No doubt about it, hills and technical trails are where my heart is so my heart was definitely in it. Northburn is not overly technical and in Australia would probably be called a Fire Trail Slog. The vast majority of the course follows high country sheep station tracks wide enough for a vehicle and very clearly defined. The few short sections of single- or off-track travel are wide, open and clearly marked. There’s hardly a whiff of vegetation above waist-high. Yet the hills are enough to cleave your face in two with sheer ecstatic celebration. Over 160km it felt like there might have been 4km of terrain that could be called “flat”, and this was in the dark during the first 5km lap and then again at about 46km, where on a scorching day they had us run through a bloody vineyard. Cheers Terry (Davis, Race Director) – nice way to rub in the fact that you’ve got 110km to go. The official stats claim 8000+ metres of elevation gain (and therefore another 8000 metres of loss) but I’ve no doubt that’s a conservative figure. There’s no respite from it. On the tops we were literally blown off course (and nearly off our feet), having to lean into the wind and
eddy each other to keep upright. At the high checkpoint, known simply as TW, we were ushered into horse trailers to escape the wind. The gale-force gusts would rock and shake these like a Bunnings shed in a tornado, then off we’d go again, no choice but to laugh manically at the lunacy of what we were doing. While we escaped the snow on this outing, the breezy tops made up for it. I got to see two sunrises and a sunset over Northburn and Lake Dunstan and, as with the elevation profile, the raw beauty of this stark, desolate environment should not be underestimated. In some ways I found the NB100 easier than expected. I didn’t pull up with the normal soreness I’d experienced on Cradle or the Blue Mountains races. Perhaps it was the lack of running involved? I had my nutrition (mostly) dialled and with one short exception didn’t really experience any great mental lows. That said, I experienced something new to me – an overwhelming, insurmountable need to sleep.
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Coming out of the 100km mark I felt fantastic. The legs were pumping smoothly, I had no pain and I was positive I could finish. Even the fact that my head torch died at the 97km mark only served to buoy my good humour. Four kilometres later, my Risk Management Alarm was screaming at me, yelling that if I didn’t stop I’d most likely sleepwalk off a cliff. How ridiculous! The rest of my body felt fresher than it did at the start line and here I was unable to keep my eyes open.
WWW.MONTANE.COM.AU Montane Lakeland 100, Walna Scar pass, 5658m of ascent and 95.8 miles to the finish line 43
“Like an angel, a roving marshal came bumbling up the hill behind me on a quad bike, bathing me in heavenly light”
I figured I could probably make it to the next checkpoint and planned to take a quick nap there. What happened next probably saved my race. Like an angel, a roving marshal came bumbling up the hill behind me on a Quad Bike, bathing me a heavenly light. He rode next to me for the next 45mins or so, talking to me, lighting the trail in front of me, letting me set the pace and refusing my offers to go ahead. It was probably 2 or 3am at this point and while I know it may have been his job as a course marshal to help ensure the safety of participants, he clearly went well beyond the call of duty. I can’t but extend my deepest gratitude. After 20mins sleep at the next checkpoint I continued on, awake and functioning well until about half an hour before arriving at TW again. I stopped for 2-3 hours all up, trying to get some more sleep and wait out the last few hours of darkness. In my stupor I figured that if I could hang out and keep my muscles from seizing until dawn that I’d be hot to trot. With the rising sun I put on everything I owned and headed out into the tempest. The last 30km or so was clearly the most horrendous. With a nasty out and back leg and a roller-coaster-like section that kept a reasonable elevation but which snaked in and out of countless tributaries, I felt a little bit like Sisyphus, pushing the stone of my fatigue up a gulley only to have it roll back out again for all eternity. With the exception of the first 5km, this is the only part of the course that felt a little contrived; as if while putting it together the course designer was enduring the frustration of raising a teenage daughter and decided to take it out on the participants. Fortunately the Gods relented and let me cross the finish line in about 34 hours 10 minutes. 44
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Where to now? It wasn’t until 2007 or thereabouts that I started to seriously consider I might one day be a runner. It started with impatience. Coming from a background of trekking and playing in the mountains I started to feel walking with a heavy pack was too slow, so I started to lighten my loads and walk further, faster. I started running not because I had any interest in races but because I wanted to see the Worlds Beautiful Places faster and under my own power. Somehow in the four years since, races have become a huge part of my running. Logistically this makes sense to me. Organised trail ultras generally allow a runner to get out and experience some amazing trails relaxed in the knowledge that checkpoints, food, water, safety measures and trail markings are in place. A latent competitiveness also rears its quirky head at the strangest times and I get an odd little thrill inspiration when a non-(ultra) runner tells me I’m crazy for running ultra distances. Socially it makes sense to me. Organised events are a melting pot of like-minded people, all putting time aside to show up and run the same trail at the same time and enjoy a day (or more) out with friends. Additionally, I’ve been amazed at how warm and welcoming the trail and ultra cultures are, full of amazing people, from new runners to long-time professionals who are all willing to have a chat, enjoy a laugh and share a moment. Philosophically, however, I feel uneasy. Perhaps it’s a matter of timing; coming into the NB100 I’d already spent six weeks experiencing the best NZ has to offer with a great bunch of people and spent time with family.
I’d done half a dozen amazing mountain runs and I’d started to feel a move away from the racetrack and into the mountains was in order. I’m tempted to think that the NB100 was simply the right experience at the right time, but it deserves more credit than that. The idea is hardly a new one. In 1933 Chief of the Oglala Sioux (Lakota), Luther Standing Bear spoke on behalf of the innumerable generations lost to time and yet to come when he declared: We did not think of the great open plains, the beautiful rolling hills, and winding streams with tangled growth, as “wild.” Only to the white man was nature a “wilderness” and only to him was the land “infested” with “wild” animals and “savage” people. To us it was tame. Earth was bountiful and we were surrounded with the blessings of the Great Mystery. In the running-cult bible Born to Run, Christopher McDougall talks of the sense of freedom and connection that make the Tarahumara such incredible athletes. It seems he is arguing that, rather than “going out for a run”, the Tarahumara are simply existing as they always have, neither defining a fixed period of time or distance after which they’ll “go back to their normal [non-running] life”, nor seeing their feats as anything warranting comment. In the early 1980s, John Annerino introduced the world to his idea of “Running Wild”, a topic he discusses at length in a book by the same name. Between 1980 and 1982 Annerino completed three ultra-distance running epics through the Grand Canyon
and later went on to run 750miles of Arizona wilderness from the Mexican border through the Sonoran Desert to Utah. Fast-forward 30 years and within the (now) professional world of ultra and trail running, and we’re seeing a similar philosophical trend. With Kilian Jornet’s “Summits of my Life”, Antony Krupicka’s FKT missions and Richard Bowles and Jez Bragg doing amazing things in the Antipodes, it’s hard not to get your own crazy ideas. Admittedly, 100 miles at Northburn is a long way from running Australia’s Bicentennial National Trail (Bowles) or crossing the Pyrenees in a week (Jornet), but I’d humbly argue that they share something in common: a wild and starkly manifest rawness. As I remember the reasons I started running in the first place, I’m confident that completing Northburn – not just finishing it – has renewed my appreciation for wild adventure and given me a sense of clarity I could scarcely have found in any other organised event in this part of the world. I can’t wait to see what’s next *
Tegyn Angel is a regular contributor to Trail Run Mag and has his own wilderness adventure blog at > www.wildplans.com Check in for 2014 Northburn 100 at > www.northburn100.co.nz 47
In a particular corner of the world there exists hundreds of kilometres of singltrack only a stone’s throw away from the front doorstep of what has become a vibrant community of trail junkies. Believe it or not, that place is one of the most densely populated concrete jungles on the planet: Hong Kong.
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Words > Lloyd Belcher + Rachel Jacqueline Images > Lloyd Belcher www.lloydbelchervisuals.photoshelter.com
Although best known for it’s iconic skyline, casting your eyes above Hong Kong island’s sprawling mass of buildings you’ll notice a less advertised tourist attraction: a green halo hovering above the city. Across the harbor, on Kowloon side, rolling peaks weave their way above the cement horizon. Making up a surprising forty percent of Hong Kong’s landmass, these green refuges are intersected with established trails and, to those in the know, are the city’s best-kept secret. “Hong Kong is a blessed place, I believe,” remarks accomplished Hong Kong trail runner, Ida Lee. “We live in one of the world’s busiest metropolis, yet about three-quarters of our area is countryside,” she says. But the best part is that a thriving city – full of opportunity – co-exists so closely with remote trails and some of the best scenery Mother Earth has to offer. “What I love about Hong Kong is the proximity of the trails,” explains Martijn Doekes, a Hong Kong resident originally from the Netherlands. While some can’t wait to race to the bars or down a hot plate of noodles after work, Doekes can’t wait to put on his trail running shoes and a headlamp and run twenty minutes uphill run to, Parkview, a residential estate which marks the gateway to Hong Kong’s urban trail running mecca. “It calms you down to get out of the city and into nature,” explains the 39-yearold banker of his unusual after-work activity choice. Discovering Hong Kong trails saved the freshly divorced, then overweight, thirty-something banker from the pull of Hong Kong’s nightlife when he moved there three years ago. The strong community of runners that the trails gather – amongst Doekes’ closest friends – are what make the pastime not just a sport, but a lifestyle. From Parkivew, Doekes has access to two main trails: the Hong Kong trail, a 50-kilometre stretch with 2000-metres of positive elevation that circumnavigates the island, and the Wilson trail, a 78-kilometre hilly trail of 4800 metres of positive elevation which cuts through Hong Kong, crosses the harbor and continues up the guts of the New Territories. There are also a handful of other country trails that intersect throughout lush and hilly innards of Hong Kong Island and extend to the beaches of the south. Doekes is spoilt for choice. He is also not alone. The sport is booming in the city amongst expats and local Hong Kongers alike. Homegrown trail runner, Sofree Tam, used to be an orienteer racer but picked up trail running as a way to strengthen her endurance. Since falling in love with the trails, 38 year-old Tam has competed in almost every local race and believes the sport has a strong future, despite the long hours the global city’s work culture demands and the tendency of locals to overindulge, rather than over-train. “It’s very exciting – not only are people getting faster and more competitive I think, but there’s likely to be even more people participating,” says Tam, who works as a pharmacist. 50
“ T r a i lwa l k e r b egan i n 1 9 8 1 as a t r a i n i n g e x e rc i s e fo r th e n e pa l e s e g u r kha sol di e rs … T h i rt y- on e y e a r s on , th e hon g Kon g e v e nt has s paw n e d 1 5 t r a i lwa l k e r e v e nts i n 1 2 di f f e r e nt countr i e s ”
Her pick of trail running is in Hong Kong’s New Territories, which offers higher peaks, some beautiful bamboo forests, breathtaking views of untouched beaches and much longer trails than those found on the island. Though an increasing number of the trails are being cemented for “safety reasons” by the local parks department, places like the Pat Sin Leng range offer untouched earthen trails and are Tam’s favourite. The New Territories is home to the well-known 100-kilometer “MacLehose” trail, part of the Wilson Trail. It is also where the legendary Oxfam Trailwalker – a 100-kilometre team of four footrace through some of Hong Kong’s most gruelling terrain – is staged each year. Trailwalker began in 1981 as a training exercise for the Nepalese Gurkha soldiers, opening to the public five years later to raise funds for Oxfam. Thirty-one years on, the Hong Kong event has spawned 15 Trailwalker events in 12 different countries, raising US$18 million for Oxfam’s plight to end poverty. Given the popularity of the race and the constrains of having to run as a team, keen trailrunners Steve Brammar and Janet Ng decided to craft Hong Kong’s first solo ultra marathon in 2010 based around the famous course, but with some diversions. Featuring more runnable terrain, but still a hefty 4500-metres of elevation gain, the popular course finishes with a descent from Hong Kong’s highest peak (Tai Mo Shan, 957m). The couple’s brave move in establishing the race has paid off: in three years the number of entrants has tripled, with 1200 runners from 30 countries taking part in 2013, and the event has been graced by several international running sensations, including Ryan Sandes. Meanwhile HKTrailrunner blogger, Nic Tinworth believes Lantau Island, home to Hong Kong’s five highest peaks, holds the best of the city’s trail running.
“I think the Lantau Trail has to be my favorite, simply for its range, variation of trail and remoteness.” Though Tinworth, originally from the UK, grew up in Hong Kong and took part on cross country races over the trails in high school, it wasn’t until returning back to his childhood home several years later that he remembered the joy of them. “I hooked up with running clubs when I moved back to rediscover the trails as more of a social thing,” he says. “But the more I ran on them, the more I ventured out to discover new ones on my own.” The highlight for the competitive-natured Brit is when trail running racing season is in full swing during the months of October through to March. During the 2012 to 2013 season he took part in 12 races. The problem he faces next year is choosing amongst all the different races – as well as the new ones on offer. Kicking off the season each year is the Lantau Twin Peaks Race in early October, incorrectly named as it actually covers three of Lantau’s toughest peaks and involves a whopping elevation gain of 1623-metres over a mere 21 kilometres. Also on Lantau a few weeks later is the Barclays Moontrekker, starting at night and challenging runners to tackle a half marathon or full marathon distance on the trails before the sun rises. November and December brings two team events: the Trailwalker and the Raleigh Challenge, a 78-kilometre team race (which can be doubled back to make a 156kilometre race) across the entire Wilson Trail. The new year brings solo challenges the Hong Kong 100 and the Lantau50/Lantau100 - a stunning race held in the south of Lantau island, which is run over 90% on trails and offers the most vertical of any of Hong Kong’s races. Although it offers some stunning views, it’s full of sustained climbs and fast technical descents. 53
But the feature of Hong Kong’s competitive trail running season is the King of the Hill series (KOTH). KOTH is one of Hong Kong’s – and arguably Asia’s – longest running trail running series. Organised by local trail running legend, Keith Noyes, there are four races to the series – in the north, south, east and west of Hong Kong. There are “half marathon” and “marathon” type distances, attracting around 500 of the local and expat community fighting it out to be named “King” and “Queen” of Hong Kong’s hills. New to the calendar this year is TheNorthFace 100. It will be Hong Kong’s third 100-kilometre race and will strongly cement Hong Kong on the Asian trail running map. It will also create a headache for local runners who will have to pick between old favourites, chasing demons on past races and new opportunities. “There are just too many runs to chose from,” laments Tinworth. During 2012 at least five new races were added to the trail running calendar; in 2013 that number almost doubled, with the introduction of the MSIG 50-kilometre race series (three races on Lantau, Hong Kong and in the New Territories), the Lantau100 race, Salomon’s ToTheTop challenge and local trail running store, Lantau Base Camp, adding more home grown races as well. The Prince and Princesses of the trails, a short trail course for junior runners, has also opened up Hong Kong’s trail running to the next generation of runners. “The trail running scene has grown massively over the past few years, hence the demand for more races,” explains 39 year-old Tinworth, a creative director at a local digital marketing agency. “When I first started running the trails, very rarely would I see other runners on them. Now it’s the opposite. Very rarely do I run without seeing other runners – and chances are I know them, too.” But it hasn’t always been this way. According KOTH’s race director Noyes, Hong Kong’s trail running history began in 1989 with the ‘Three Mountain Marathon’ hiking series, KOTH’s predecessor. A hiking race, only a handful or participants elected to run the course each year. Noyes, a runner, took over the event in 1998 and renamed it the ‘King of the Hills’. Since, the number of participants has increased and the race has transformed into a hallmark of Hong Kong’s trail running scene.
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21 September AngleseA VictoriA
SOLO OR ReLay TeaMS
A spectacular 100km trail run beside towering sea cliffs, along remote ocean beaches and through the captivating wildflower hinterland where no two footsteps will be the same.
So what is it about the lengthy, strenuous and time-consuming nature of trail running that draws Hong Kongers like a magnet?
Hong Kong Trail Events >
Felix Shum, director of Xtraventure Training and Events (XTE) who holds several trail and adventure races each year considers that Hong Kongers are embracing trail running as a way to “get away from home and work and enjoy nature”. Noyes adds: “It’s a great way for Hong Kongers to take their mind off the everyday stress of living in the city and get a great endorphin buzz.”
Lantau Twin Peaks Race > www.actionasiaevents.com
But in Hong Kong’s concrete, sometimes lonely jungle, trail running is a way to become part of a growing community with similar interests in the outdoors. “For me, the best part of Hong Kong is the community of trail runners,” says Doekes. Lee, who met her talented trail running husband Chor Kin Law on the trails, couldn’t agree more. “Everyone is nice, shares the joys of the trails and helps each other,” adds Tam. “Look at the Vibram Hong Kong 100 – there are lots of eager runners and happy volunteers. Although sometimes we have communication problems, all things can be settled by just wearing your trail running shoes and stepping on the trail.” *
Barclays Moontrekker > www.barclaysmoontrekker.com Vibram Hong Kong 100 > www.hk100-ultra.com Lantau50/Lantau100 > www.lantau50.com King of the Hill series > www.seyonasia.com
www.surfcoastcentury.com.au
MSIG 50-kilometre race > www.actionasiaevents.com Lantau Base Camp Events > www.lantaubasecamp.com Salomon’s ToTheTop challenge XTE Events > www.xterace.com The Prince and Princesses of the trails > www.lantaubasecamp.com TheNorthFace 100 > www.thenorthface100.com/races.html Raleigh Challenge > www.raleigh.org.hk/wilsontrail/index_en.php
Put yourself in the picture(s) in 2013
Springing from the unlikely trail hotspot of Hong Kong, one man has created an ultra challenge like no other. Meet Andre Blumberg, the inspiration behind the Hong Kong Four Trails Ultra Challenge and a leading light of the South East Asian trail scene.
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Words > Rachel Jacqueline Images > Patchanida Pongsubkarun and Lloyd Belcher www.lloydbelchervisuals.photoshelter.com It’s 4.30am and Andre Blumberg wrestles with his alarm clock. With eyes still full of sleep, he grabs his hydration pack before heading out onto Hong Kong’s dark streets for his daily run; not a quick jaunt, but a two-hour sojourn up into the city’s trails in which he will cover a half marathon distance while Hong Kong sleeps. It’s a warm-up for the triple marathon distance he will run during the weekend and a stroll in comparison to the multiple ultra marathons he will complete this year. Meet Hong Kong’s ultra marathon man. He doesn’t know how far he ran last year: “about 6,000 kilometres,” he shrugs, an average of 16 kilometres a day. This year the 43 year-old, originally from Germany though a Hong Kong resident for 11 years, estimates he has already clocked 1800 kilometres. This was in May. In February, over the Chinese New Year holiday, Blumberg led a small, dedicated group of Hong Kongers and one Singaporean over all four of the region’s ultra trails: Lantau, Wilson, MacLehose and the Hong Kong trail – a total of 298 kilometres and 14,400 metres in cumulative elevation over three days. The Hong Kong Four Trails Ultra Challenge or HK4TUC as the event is called, has its roots in Blumberg’s first solo journey across the four trails in four days back in 2012. Frustrated with the lack of multi-day ultra running events in his city, he experimented with the fully self-supported ‘HK 4in4’. “The challenge sounded monumental to start with. Each of the four trails, especially given the elevation changes, is a fairly decent effort in its own right.” “I probably only managed three to four hours sleep each night, but felt strong and motivated each morning for what was ahead that day. Nobody thought it could be done and I proved it is possible,” he says with self-effacing modesty. A man of extremes, Blumberg made the challenge more difficult this year by shortening it to three days, increasing the daily
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distance and elevation and setting a 64-hour cut off. He also invited others to take part in what is, he points out, “not a race, but a personal challenge”. No race bibs, no finishers’ medals and no time recording. All fifty-odd hours of running – believe it or not – for fun. Within weeks, the HK4TUC Facebook page had over 1000 ‘likes’ from around the world. Five brave souls attempted the challenge. “Some people will always chase for races, but some will reach an inflection point where they decide to run just for the fun of it,” says Blumberg. Next year the race will be set in reverse and participants must complete the challenge non-stop in under 60 hours. Not content with standing still, over ten weeks starting at the end of June, Blumberg will head to the United States four times to compete in the Grand Slam of ultra trail running: the Western States 100 Mile Endurance Run, the Vermont 100 Mile Endurance Run, the Leadville Trail 100 Mile Run and the Wasatch Front 100 Mile Endurance Run. That’s 640 kilometres or just over 15 marathons – more than most would do in a lifetime. “The GS100 has taken place since 1986, yet only 266 people have finished it. In the same time more than 8,000 people have summitted Mount Everest,” he explains. Drawn to the extreme difficulty of the challenge and the odds of non-completion - DNF rates being between 30% to 70% DNF – Blumberg will be the only international participant this year not living in the USA or Canada. “It’s the Oscars of ultra running,” he adds with a wry smile. It’s quite a feat for someone who only took up running three years ago. In fact, Blumberg is not a pro-athlete, but a salvaged victim of the indulgent Asian expat lifestyle where he spent his mid to late thirties focusing on his career and enjoying the good life of clubbing and Sunday champagne brunches. Weighing a “grossly obese” 103 kilograms for his 176cm height frame and on the slow slide to 40, he sought a change.
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For a while, Blumberg wasn’t sure exactly what change he was after. He contemplated affairs, a new sports car. But then he read about ultra endurance athlete Rich Roll, a vegan triathlete. “Rich’s story had quite a few similarities to mine. He turned his life around from a sedentary, career-focused person to one of the fittest guys on the planet,” he explains. “It is fair to say he inspired me.” Within six months Blumberg had shed 32 kilograms. He went on numerous detox retreats in Thailand. He stopped drinking and went cold turkey and radically overhauled his diet. Then he began running. Just how far he has come in three years has been a surprise. “I started running as it’s simple, but eventually my running distances grew longer and longer,” he explains. He ran his first ultra marathon, a 64-kilometre race around Hong Kong island in 2010, only four months after he started running. Six months later, he ran his first 100k at the TNF100 Singapore and finished third. “I was hooked,” he says. “To me running is more than just a sport; it’s a lifestyle.” Since making the change he has altered his eating habits dramatically, becoming almost vegan, and rarely drinks alcohol. Above all, it’s a relaxing way to unwind in an unforgiving city, says the busy IT Director at a regional power utility. But why such extreme challenges, that go beyond the standard ultra? “Because the trails are there,” explains Blumberg with a Mallory-esque resonance. Events like the HK4TUC are also a way to share his love for the trails with others. “The idea is to get a community of like-minded ultra trail runners together and to enjoy the outdoors,” he adds, before admitting: “It’s certainly not for everyone.” There are detractors to Blumberg’s new lifestyle. Sports physiologist at the Institute of Human Performance at the University of Hong Kong Duncan Macfarlane believes running such extreme distances goes beyond being healthy and may be increasing the risk of damage to the body. “It goes so far beyond what the body is designed to do,” he cautions. Of Blumberg’s recent HK4TUC feat, Macfarlane cites dehydration, bio-mechanical injuries, strains and inflammation from persistent pounding, metabolic stress from trying to retain sufficient energy and electrolytes as well as significant destruction of red blood cells from “foot strike hemolysis” which may cause anemia as potential risks. We didn’t dare ask the disapproving scientist what he would think of Blumberg’s Grand Slam attempt.
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This is the for the guys ad who make
kIck-Gss & design. ads
Like for instance, this magazine.
While Blumberg is the first to admit his running isn’t always entirely sensible, for him it’s just the beginning. His future plans include running the 320-kilometre Wibolt along Germany’s Rheinsteig and the Badwater series: three 135 miles races in Brazil, Arrowhead (US) and the famous desert race, Badwater (US), all within one calendar year. “These races and other plans should keep me busy for the next four to five years during which time, no doubt, a dozen new amazing races will pop up that end up in the bucket list.”
www.the bird collective.com.au The designers of Trail Run could design your ads. Something to ponder on your next 40k run. 64
Blumberg is known to meticulously study course maps, elevation profiles, checkpoints and distances between them. His excel spreadsheets with embedded calculations (used to prepare for races) are valued commodities in the local trail running community, where he is revered for his knowledge, experience and passion. Though he rarely competes in local races these days - “they’re too short for me” - Blumberg can always be seen on the sidelines, cheering on fellow runners with a noisy cowbell.
Above and beyond the physicality of running is the mental challenge and preparation required for the detailed Blumberg.
Though his feats may seem beyond what’s physically possible, Blumberg assures the true battles of his crazy endeavors lie in the mind.
“If you do races of only 10-kilometre distance, you can do a race every weekend. If you run 100-mile races then you probably can only do three to five a year. To me it’s important to plan my race in advance, and it goes beyond the training aspect.”
“Provided you have basic fitness, running ultras is more a mental challenge than a question of fitness,” he says. “Running an ultra marathon is not about going fast; it is about not slowing down for a very long time.”
Check out Blumberg’s Hong Kong 4-trails Ultra Challenge at www.HK4TUC.com
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Hima layan HOT SPOT 66
Kilian Jornet wasn’t the only bloke on the planet born high in a mountain range and blessed with prodigious trail talent. There are people born in the Himalayas every day, you know ...some of them choose to run. Upendra Sunuwar is just one. Words> Luke Tyburski Images> Luke Tyburski, Richard Bull, George Chong
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When people think of Nepal, it’s the almighty mountains and Everest in particular that first come to mind. And if prompted on any form of Nepali athleticism of note, it’ll be the Sherpa mountaineers paid their due respects. But try to think of other sports for which Nepalis are renowned. Nothing spring to mind? It’s a mental blank that may soon be filled by local runners. Amid peaks soaring to the earth’s greatest heights, and valley terrain etched with singletrack hosting thousands of trekker tourists at a snail’s pace, there is a new wave of athlete surging along: the Nepali trail runner. These phenomenally gifted runners, some of whom were born and still live 3000m above sea level, represent a tiny portion of Nepali athletes. You may never have heard of runners from Nepal, let alone world-class trail runners, because running is not a popular past time for the majority of this scenic country’s people. Indeed, they struggle for international exposure or recognition of their talent. It hasn’t helped that up until recent times the Nepali’s didn’t even have a word for “marathon” in their language (let alone ultra trail runner). Most locals think people who run are mad. The act of running is, it seems, even missing from their instinct for survival. Witness the oncoming bus pummeling along dirt roads and the Nepalis who saunter casually across the road in front of it. They won’t even break into a trot to avoid violent death speeding toward them. No, running’s not a Nepalese ‘thing’. Despite this, trail running is on the increase in Nepal, with several expat westerners helping locals set up some of the most grueling, but stunning ultra trail marathons in the world. The likes of the Manaslu Trail Race, the Annapurna 100, and the Everest Ultra are just a few of these magnificent races. Athletes run alongside the aweinspiring Himalayas and over courses that give new meaning to the idea of ‘technical trail’. And then there is the lung-biting altitude.
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One Nepali trail runner with copious amounts of raw talent is Upendra Sunuwar, a mountain guide by occupational title, but ultra trail runner by passion. Upendra is one of the new breed of Nepali runners, only taking up the sport three years ago because he “wanted to give it a go”. A man of hardy work ethic, he initially approached several coaches and trainers but was told at the age of 23 that he was “too old” to be coached unless he trained full time. Unfortunately, like most in poverty-cast Nepal, Upendra still needs to work in order to support himself and his parents. So he watched other runners and started mimicking their style, applying it to his own running, alone, on trail, without benefit of the feedback of consistent coaching. With raw talent, determination, and the physiological gift of a childhood spent living higher than 2000m above sea level with not a flat (or straight) road in sight, he has become one of the leading lights of trail running in Nepal. In a short time he has achieved staggering results: 3rd in the Annapurna 100k, 1st Manaslu Mountain Race (8 stages, 212km race), and 1st Everest 65k Ultra. He recently accompanied Lizzie Hawker, North Face-sponsored, National Geographic Adventurer of the Year and five-time UTMB British trail runner, for a large portion of her record-breaking 319km run from Everest Base Camp to Kathmandu (which she completed in 63 hours, 8 minutes); not bad for someone who describes himself as a “not so good, not so bad runner”. Upendra simply goes about his training between mountain guiding jobs, amassing anywhere between 200-250kms over six days. When he is not training, he works hard guiding, carrying up to 50kgs of gear, at times knee-deep in snow, up any number of Himalayan mountains to altitudes of 6000m above sea level.
Staying with Upendra in his village, we would set out at 6am for a daily run. He would be armed with nothing but his shoes, shorts, shirt, and an ancient Garmin GPS watch. He planned our route knowing where mountain hut shops were to buy water, biscuits, black tea, and buffalo milk for fuel along the way. After a quick pitstop to refuel, we would be back on uneven, twisted trails surrounding his village in the Sindhuli region, in central Nepal. On several training runs, he would dash off ahead up the jagged and contorted hills, leaving me to somehow salve my burning legs, lungs, and gasping for air at between 2500-3000 metres above sea level. Just when I would think I was all alone to battle another relentless, demoralising climb, Upendra would appear, patiently waiting with a smile on his weathered face. Reaching a peak boasting stunning panoramic mountain views, he would leave me, bouncing off ahead back down the mountain from rock to rock at lightning speeds, his legs whirring at speeds that made me think of the cartoon character ‘Road Runner’, darting ahead to always outfox the slower, clunkier, Coyote, in this case perfectly analogous to my running. Returning to his modest, mud and stone, straw-roofed family home we were always greeted with a look of curiosity and disbelief from the villagers. Living high up in the mountains tucked away from the “city life” of Kathmandu, they are steadfast in their thoughts on someone running up and down colossal hills: “Crazy people,” they would say, and “Why waste your energy?” would be the consistent line of questioning. But to Upendra it isn’t wasting energy, rather it is harnessing energy for his next race; for his next rendezvous with another mountain running experience, and hopefully a chance to impress potential sponsors. Upendra has given up explaining to his countryman: they will never understand and he is happy to be regarded as the town crazy.
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Despite their privations, Upendra’s mother and father remain eternally cheerful and supportive of their son’s passion, even if it is seen as at odds with Nepali traditional culture. They have a small potato and spinach farm at the front of their house, which they use to barter for other food and necessities within their village. Their house is extremely primitive and as the first westerner to step foot inside their humble abode, I was welcomed and treated (although slightly embarrassing) like royalty. The dwelling they call home consists of a single room on the ground floor, featuring a hole to the side for a cooking fire, a wooden plank bed for Upendra’s parents, and a scattering of stools for guests to sit on. Upstairs is for storage, and adjacent is a barn where Upendra and I sleep alongside the animals.
at Manaslu, Upendra beat Lizzie Hawker, and barely broke a sweat doing so.
One of the many reasons why the sprinkling of Nepalese trail runners going around can run like they do is diet: home cooked organic food, consisting majorly of dal baht - cooked rice (baht) and lentil (dal) soup. This national dish can be accompanied with bok choy, potato curry, tomato relish, and occasionally some meat (usually chicken/mutton/fish). Running between 3-6 hours a day will increase anyone’s appetite, and with endless rice being the one thing most Nepali families can access, it remains the staple daily intake for Nepali runners. Eating, he admits, is one of Upendra’s favourite things alongside running. Most mornings I would find this brilliant runner making bread before heading out onto the trails. This in itself is unusual as it is rare that a Nepali male cooks, the chore usually reserved for women, as is customary in Nepal. But Upendra is relatively well-travelled within Nepal through his guiding and racing, and having had more exposure to western influences, he has adopted different ways to the stereotypical Nepali males when it suits. And cooking more food to energise his running suits him just fine.
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Backed only by the little money he makes guiding, his hopes remain dreams for now.
Upendra speaks of one day seeing other parts of the world and competing in some of the toughest races which to date he has only heard about through foreign trail runners met in the Nepal events. It’s almost a tease: he knows of the UTMBs, the Hardrocks, the Taraweras, but can only dream of what their trails are really like, and if he could actually match it with the world’s best in competition.
Having these athletes compete in international races - Aite notably finishing on the podium several times - has raised some awareness of Nepali trail runners. The worldwide trail running community is realising that these exotic athletes have gigantic spirit; they fight hard on trail; they ooze natural unharnessed talent; and they have a thirst for success.
Yet, bound by a life lived not in abject poverty (there are certainly poorer in Nepal than Upendra), but definitely on the breadline backed only by the little money he makes guiding, his hopes remain dreams for now.
Aite has already registered amazing results, winning the Annapurna 100, and placing 2nd to Kilian Jornet and Ryan Sandes in different races in Malaysia and Hong Kong respectively. Coming second to two of the biggest names in the sport who train full time with a team of people behind them? Imagine the potential.
There are no sponsors in Nepal, no money offered by the Nepali government to harness these talented and gifted athletes. The majority of the world - bar those who have trail run in Nepal - does not know of these extraordinary people. Remember this: in the Manaslu Trail Run event, Upendra beat Lizzie Hawker, and barely broke a sweat doing so. Self taught, self trained athletes like Upendra could achieve phenomenal things if they were given the opportunities to work with real coaches, in a training camp environment, and race against some of the top trail runners in the world, instead of having to worry about where their next paid job is going to come from in order to support themselves and their families. There is hope: in the last 2-3 years there has been a handful of Nepali runners who have travelled abroad. Runners including Aite Tamang and Sudip Kulung have been lucky enough to participate in several ultra marathon trail races including The Vibram 100 in Hong Kong, the Mt Kinabalu Climbathon in Malaysia, and Aite is set to compete in the Ultra Trail Mont Blanc in Chamonix France.
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But how do Upendra and other Nepali runners compare to Aite, and how would they perform in some of these grueling trail races against the crème del a crème of trail runners? It’s hard to say, unless they are on the same trails, on the same day, but Upendra recently beat Aite, and Sudip in the Everest 65km Ultra trail race from Gorakshep (5200m) to Lukla (2800m). With limited opportunities, most Nepali runners can only dream of the day a sponsor shows interest in developing their potential – but dream they do, after all, Kilian was once a nobody. Today, he’s a brand unto himself. But until the television cameras and coaches come calling, the harsh realities of Nepali life, and of being a ultra runner in a country where the sport barely has a heartbeat in terms of local participation, will remain difficult and a “uphill battle” for continuing success. But then Upendra and his cohorts like the uphills – it’s what he trains on daily.
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And so he and others will continue to run, “up, up, up, and down down, down” as Upendra described our running route one day, and do whatever is needed to be fit, strong and mentally prepared for each and every start line they step to, local or otherwise. Unfortunately, when work presents itself, whether it’s in the form of mountain guiding, Nepali Army duties, or anything else that will pay for food for themselves and their families, training slows down to a near non-existence. It’s hardly ideal preparation for any top class athlete, but these are the sacrifices and difficult life choices Nepali trail runners face. So for Upendra, Aite, Sudip and Co., they can only forge ahead and continue to race each race, most of the time against each other, like their life depends on the respective result. The thing is, at times it truly does have a huge impact on not only their running careers, but also the health and welfare of themselves and their families.
Luke Tyburski is a UK-based adventure journalist
luketyburski.com TOP FIVE NEPALI TRAIL RUNS Manaslu Mountain Trail Race > 9 November 2013 * 212km, 7 days Everest Skyrace > 18 Oct 2013 * 360km, 11 days The Himalaya Ring > March-May 2014 * 2209km, 51-70 days Mustang Trail Race > 23 November -3 December 2013 * 277km, 8 days Great Himalaya Trail > April-May 2016 * 1600km, 40+days Information and further links to all events can be found at > www.trailrunningnepal.org/events
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In this edited extract from his book One Step Beyond, Trail Run Mag’s roving editor Mal Law recounts his run along the Heaphy Track, part of his defining 7in7 Challenge to run New Zealand’s seven Great Walks in seven days. Words > Mal Law * Images > Mead Norton and Mal Law collection
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Ahead of me lay the longest Great Walk of them all, the Heaphy Track. The official guide suggests a walking time of four to six days. We had an absolute maximum of 13 hours. In my mind, the success or failure of the 7in7 Challenge rested on getting through uninjured in the time we had. It was pretty much do or die. Being as tired as I was, nothing seemed as easy as it should have. The routine of preparing for a long run in the mountains – taping feet and nipples, applying chafing cream and sunblock, filling water bladders, stowing food, cameras and spare clothing – had become second nature to me by now [having knocked off three other Great Walks over the past three days], but I was faffing around in the dark, forgetting things and having to redo other things. It took me three attempts just to tie my shoelaces properly. The Heaphy, as well as being the longest of the Great Walks (78.4km), is also the most remote. Getting help if anything were to happen would be no easy matter, which added to the perceived enormity of the day ahead. The first 18km is a virtually unbroken climb that took us from an altitude of less than 100 metres to almost 1000 metres. It’s a route that was once surveyed for a road to the West Coast that never came to pass. The legacy of these long-abandoned plans is a pack track that is well-graded and reasonably wide. It’s not particularly demanding, but it is relentless. Walking at night in thick bush it was hard to gauge progress. Small talk [with Jeff, my running partner for this section] provided distraction from the inevitable physical discomforts 78
of starting out on my fourth ultra marathon in four days. Our head torches bobbed around hypnotically in front of us, landing on trees, shrubs and trail at random. I was just thinking how easy it might be to actually fall asleep while walking, when all of a sudden I was stopped in my tracks by something moving in the beam. I stared in disbelief at the unmistakable outline of a kiwi – the first and only one I have ever seen in the wild.
From the hut, the track continues in a series of long downs and short ups, losing around 300 metres of altitude over 7km. It remains a fairly broad pack track but becomes increasingly rocky – prime ankle-turning stuff for the tired runner.
High on this dose of Mother Nature, we continued our steady climb up the hill. Our first waymark – the Aorere Shelter – wasn’t until three-quarters of the way up. The clock was ticking, and with the first hints of dawn creeping through the foliage, it was time to up the pace.
Maybe I was distracted by these thoughts, or maybe I was just being clumsy, but not long after I stumbled while stepping onto a bridge that crossed one of the many creeks that dissect the Downs. On fresh legs it would have been an easy fall to save, but not on this day. I took a couple of long strides, desperately trying to halt my downward momentum, but they were not enough to prevent me crashing to the deck, scraping my knee on the chicken wire that was stretched across the wooden planks of the bridge. I lay still for a moment while I took stock of things, realising that I’d done no serious damage.
Beyond the Aorere Shelter there are a series of false summits. The mind hears what the body wants to believe, and with the three-hour mark having already come and gone, my body definitely wanted to believe that the top of the hill was just around the next bend. Eventually it was, and we broke into a run along the final approach to the Perry Saddle Hut, which stood resplendent beneath high peaks, bathed in the soft, early morning sunlight that was filtering through a layer of cloud. We stopped briefly to fill water bladders and exchange a few words with the hut’s occupants, a group of trampers who were clearly surprised to see anyone arriving there before they’d even got a billy on for the first brew of the day.
We reached Gouland Downs Hut, still well short of a third of the way, in just over four hours. Clearly, we were struggling to get through within the 12 hours planned for, but there was no cause to panic just yet. Not if I could remain injury free and avoid seizing up completely.
With catastrophe averted, we pressed on through a landscape unique to this remote corner of New Zealand. Its tussock flats and stands of beech forest were reminiscent of other mountain areas, but the difference was in the limestone bedrock that underpins it all. Every now and again the track would cross a limestone arch, the remnant of an old cave system, or cross a deep chasm that had been sculpted out of the rock by water that could be heard but not seen. The day was warming up but a high layer of cloud persistently hung around the higher peaks. I was starting to keep a close eye on this, knowing that if it dropped too low it would make helicopter access to the far end of the track problematic, and so my ability to get to the next Great Walk trailhead on time near impossible. 79
Jeff must have thought that I needed some heightened entertainment to take my mind off the tiredness and started singing his version of Dean Martin’s ‘That’s Amore’, a little ditty he’d composed especially for the occasion. It went like this:
When your energy’s low and there’s 40 to go That’s the Heaphy. When you’re barely alive on Mal’s fundraising drive That’s the Heaphy. Aching back, struggling down the track, Quads and calves on fire, situation’s dire On the Heaphy. And your feet are so sore, all because of Mal Law On the Heaphy. Jeff ’s singing is not much better than his composition skills, and mine is worse still. But that didn’t stop us bellowing this ‘tune’ at the top of our voices as we ran across the Gouland Downs. After all, there wasn’t another human being within miles so far as we could tell. We pushed on towards Saxon Hut and then through a section of bush that led to another, clearer, landscape composed mostly of tussock grasses – the Mackay Downs. The trail had long since turned to single track; largely well made and not too technical. It should have been relatively easy, fast running but my legs were starting to fail me and my coordination was becoming poor. I was getting wobbly and my feet were getting sore. Once again, the pace felt pathetic but it didn’t really matter just so long as we were moving forwards
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in the right direction. We still had a bit of time up our sleeves and so long as I didn’t actually fall asleep we were on target to make the cut-off time for the chopper extraction. I kept on repeating the mantra: Relentless Forward Motion. After six and a half hours we reached James Mackay Hut – we’d run 42 km to get here, and I was feeling totally poked. Over the last few kilometres I’d withdrawn into myself, becoming introspective and dwelling on the pain and tiredness. Jeff was offering great support, keeping up a quiet background chatter of encouragement and making sure that I was eating and drinking, but I just didn’t have the mental energy to interact with him. Spells such as this are almost inevitable on any long run, but they can be psychologically dangerous if you allow them to go on too long. Introspection can lead to loss of hope and with that can go the will to battle on. At such times the physical expressions of the tiredness you’re feeling are exaggerated – small aches become insufferable pains; and a vicious downward spiral of emotions can lead you into a deep, dark pit. I knew I needed to take a break and refocus my dwindling supplies of energy. For the first time that day I sat down at the side of the track. Jeff went off to fill our water bladders from the hut’s tank and I popped some painkillers – the first I had taken all week. I did some sums and realised that the spot where I sat pretty much marked halfway of the 7in7 Challenge, a thought that cheered me up. I tried not to spoil it with the prospect of what lay ahead today: another 36km, or six hours-plus of running.
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We set off down the mother of all hills – a 700m drop over 12.5km that would take us to Lewis Hut and the Heaphy River. Lewis Hut was the furthest point I’d got to on my training run here. We were now in the depths of the Heaphy River valley, the tannin-stained waters of which empty from the highlands we had just spent several hours running across. The bush is dark, dense and moody; the trail wet and muddy. We crossed the river on an enormous, wobbly swing bridge and continued our run/walk/run routine down its southern side, heading for the still-distant Tasman Sea – the next bite of the elephant. It was sloppy going, the mud frequently spilling over the tops of our shoes. But we cared not; we were making slow but steady progress, knocking it off one step at a time while marvelling at the giant trees that had occupied their allotted spot – custodians of the forest – for hundreds of years. Two more dramatic and rickety swing bridges later, we started to sense that the valley was opening out. We were closing in on the mouth of the river and the mighty Tasman Sea. Now, more than 60 km into the day, the tiredness and footsoreness were starting to get to me again but I kept myself going with the thought of making it to the coast. When eventually we saw the mouth of the river and the surging, crashing waves of the sea colliding with the darker river waters, I felt something like I imagine the early pioneers did when they finally hit the same coast: an overwhelming sense of triumph and achievement. Standing in the sunshine outside Heaphy Hut, looking down on an expanse of almost manicured grass to the river mouth beyond, it would have seemed perfectly right and proper to pull up a deckchair, 82
crack open a beer and take a long nap. Such enticing thoughts clashed with the brutal reality of our situation. Despite having been on the go for ten hours we still had another 16km. We were now running south, parallel and close to the sea, whose pounding rhythm of breaking waves provided a soundtrack much more melodious than Jeff’s Amore. It was hot and humid, the atmosphere doing all it could to suck the last remnants of energy from us. We ran through glades of graceful nikau palms, the simple beauty of which, combined with the shade they offered, cast a happy spell. It was with much regret that we had to leave them each time we broke out onto clearer sections of trail for short lengths of deep, soft sand. The beaches, stunning as they are, were a cruel necessity. Picking our way through the mounds of driftwood, searching for elusive stretches of harder sand, we made slow progress. Looking around, the weather seemed to be doing funny things. We’d spent most of the day running under high cloud, while out to sea was clear blue sky. However, looking south towards Karamea, where the chopper stood ready to fly me down the length of the West Coast to meet the trailhead of my next run challenge, there was mean grey cloud frothing over the coastal ranges, threatening to engulf the shore. If that were to happen,
we might be in for a very long, uncomfortable drive south instead. Just the idea of it was enough to bring tears to my eyes. The wobbles had returned and my stumbles were becoming more frequent. I needed to be extra careful. We were getting within sniffing distance of the finish, but rounding Crayfish Point we still had to face a few stings from the Heaphy’s tail. There were three more encounters with the dreaded soft sand – Koura Beach, Bick Rock Beach and Scotts Beach all wanted a share of what little energy was left in my legs – and then there was the nasty climb over Kohaihai Bluff to lay claim to the rest. Coming over the top of the bluff we heard our support crew before we spotted them. I’d never been more relieved to see [my partner] Sal’s smiling face, and after 12 ¾ hours of hard graft I greedily hugged her to me before collapsing onto the grass, eyes closed enjoying the merciful release that being horizontal granted our feet. Over the years I’ve soaked my legs in many rivers but none have ever felt quite as wonderful as the Kohaihai that afternoon. I could have sat there all afternoon, but my reverie was broken by the helicopter pilot shouting and pointing at a bank of cloud rolling up the coast. There was no time to lose – we had to get out of there. The goodbyes were rushed. I wouldn’t see Sal again until I’d knocked off another two Great Walks *
One Step Beyond is available from all bookshops with any sense of taste and can be pruchased directly from Mal (he may even sign it with a witticism if you ask nicely) via Running Wild NZ www.runningwildshop.co.nz Mead Norton is an outdoor lifestyle photographer based in New Zealand. www.meadnorton.com 83
He may have won the extreme Canadian Death Race (motto for the 125km event: It’s a killer) and be a signed Salomon athlete, but the Backcountry Runner’s Grant Guise had yet to run a 100-miler. His choice in popping the traditional ultra distance cherry? A brutal one in Japan’s Ultra Trail Mt Fuji. Words > Grant Guise * Images > Shinpei Koseki / Sanpixs Imaging Singapore
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HOW DOES ONE KNOW if they are prepared and ready for what is the unknown?
“How do you feel? Are you ready?” The questions were asked many times, at an increased frequency, as the Ultra Trail Mt Fuji approached. And each time I had the same nervous laugh to myself and the same answer: “I am not sure, I hope so”. How does one know if they are prepared and ready for what is the unknown? I remember when the Ultra Trail Mt Fuji (UTMF) was first announced for 2011, my little head filled with memories of beautiful rugged trails, magical views and the friendly people of Japan that I had experienced a few years earlier. The first edition of UTMF was, of course, cancelled due to the triple diaster that Japan suffered in April 2011, but in May 2012 the first edition of the UTMF took place. Dubbed as the sister race to Europe’s famed Ultra Trail du Mt Blanc (UTMB), UTMF shares many of the same characteristics, but with a unique Japanese flair that includes 161km and 9100 meters of vertical gain. Replacing the chalet-pocked mountain farmland and cow bell ringing spectators of Europe are Japanese temples, an everpresent view of 3776-meter Mt Fuji and the constant jiggle of runners’ Bear Bells. After seeing images of Salomon team mates Julien Chorier, Adam Campbell and Nerea Martinez at the 2011 edition
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of UTMF, my head was tantalisingly filled with the idea of an epic race around Mt Fuji. Come 2013, that idea morphed to reality for what was to be my first ‘miler’. For 2013, the event was moved back a month earlier to late April and most of the chatter pre-race was about the weather (as well as a course change to anti-clockwise and 1000 meters more climbing). A week before the race it snowed in the surrounding cities at the base of Fuji and I arrived in Yagisaki-Kouen, the start/finish town, with fellow Salomon team mates Jeremy Ritchey, Gretel Fortmann, Gary Robbins, Clair Price and Julien without laying eyes on Mt Fuji due to low cloud and light rain. The following day I went to stretch the legs a little, jogging along the final stretch of the course when I felt a presence behind me. I turned and almost fell over: the beauty and sheer scale of Fuji–San was stunning. I needed to see this peak from all angles. The only way to achieve that is to run all the way around. My plan was to run conservatively, but still put myself in a good position early on should I be feeling in a position to chalenge up front. I tucked in behind the French trio of Seb Chaigneau (The North Face), Antione Guillon and Lionel Trivel (both LaFuma), as well as Gary Robbins, while our Salomon team mates Julien and Jeremy took off leading the race. I settled into a good pace with my new French friends, as well as a host of Japanese talent. Two hours into the race and it was already one like no other. Sitting around tenth position, I was part of a pack of 8-10 other runners.
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For hours in the dark I ran, jogged and walked.
Of all the trail racing I have done in New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong and Canada, this was by far the deepest field I had raced in. At checkpoint A2 I left with the the Frenchmen (Chaigneau, Guillon and Trivel) and felt good, until the first steep climb began. I started going backwards fast, before being revitalised by an epic view of Mt Fuji just on dusk as we summited Ryugatake. Leaving checkpoint W1 in the dark, I was in 12th position at the base of the Tenshi Mountains. More than three hours later, coming down from the brutal Tenshi’s, I was around 25th and more than one hour down on then race leader, Julien. For hours in the dark I ran, jogged and walked. I passed and got past. I walked flat road sections eating rice with my eyes closed and other times I turned off my Petzl Nao and ran by moonlight. Arriving at aid stations during this time was like awakening from a dream, after not seeing or hearing anyone for so long, the course would suddenly arrive at a well-lit marquee to cheers and encouragement and friendly faces. Close to sunrise I found myself high on the Eastern slopes of Mt Fuji, at 1800m, with the snow-capped peak high above and a ribbon of intense red light as the sun was coming up in the east. Unbeknown to me as I ran down into checkpoint A6, I had crept into 12th position. Then, arriving at the following pitstop of A7, I was greeted by name and then by a voice I recognised. Laid out on a massage table was team mate Jeremy Ritchy, broken and unable to go on and proof that the Fuji course has the aggression to take down the best. 88
Like the course profile, my race continued to go up and down. I dropped more places, only to regain them and then lose them again. The highs where excellent: I walked the climbs with purpose and focus, I flowed on the downs and strided out efficiently on the runable sections. But these patches of good times were peppered by biting low patches which dominated the last 40kms of my race. At one point, I was passed by three small boys running up a hill, out for a Saturday morning walk with their family. This was my nadir and I was grateful to know that I had hit the bottom. I left A9 on a high having just been told that Gary had taken over second place ahead of Julien and Seb who were chasing hard. I was excited about the race playing out in front of me and Gary’s return from a long injury lay off. As my mind drifted back to my own race I was confronted by the steepest climb of the race. So steep and technical was this section there was a fixed rope to assist runners. I was in such a state here I was sure I would fall off the steep rocky ridge. There was an upside to that notion: at least if I did I knew I could just lie down and stay there. Looking back, this ridge was actually a topographical highlight of the race and I wish I could have enjoyed it more at the time. Another long downhill and I reached the final aid station and high-fived a group of young Japanese children cheering on runners with their parents. Hours earlier – it could have been a lifetime ago – I had the same experience as during the Tenshi Mountains section. Families, young children to grand parents, huddled in the cold night as we ran along poorly-lit streets to A3, the sparse crowd offering support, cheers and clapping. It inspired me into the night.
Now, all that was left was to eat one final rice ball and drink another bottle of coke, with 20km and 800 meters of climbing mixed in for good measure. I told myself that it was over, there was nothing left, I had broken the back of the race and after how far I had come, this would be easy. I wish it was. But I was to discover there was a basement door to my house of pain and I was about to drop through it. I ran, I walked, I shuffled and I almost cried when the course turned uphill one final time on the road. As I moved along the final paved incline I tried to justify my walking and kept thinking how stupid this was. I looked hopelessly for the UTMF flagging to lead downhill and for it to end. Then I thought about all those people that cheered me along, about my support crew that would be waiting for me to arrive, my sponsors and family that have given so much so I could be in that moment, almost 23hrs into the Ultra Trail Mt Fuji. Did they give this support to me to walk along a flat piece of road? They supported me to give my best and walking this was not my best. No, I wasn’t winning the race, or anywhere near it, but I never was. Foe them, in that moment, I needed to give my best – so I ran. Finally, the road took a sharp left and dropped down steeply, turning into a dirt 4WD track. The end was nigh and I awoke to a realisation. The fastest way to get a cold beer and into a hot Onsen (hot springs) was to run fast, which had the added bonus of picking off a few fellow UTMF sufferfest participants that I had not seen in hours. I almost felt bad passing three people so close to the finish. 89
<UTMF> Ultra Trail Mt Fuji 161km with 9000m of vertical gain and loss. 800 starters. Begins and finishes in Yagisaki Kouen, circumnavigating Mt Fuji, running anti-clock wise. Shizuoka To Yamanashi (STY) – is the shorter option at 84km, with 4700m vertical gain and 1200 starters. It finishes in Yagisaki Kouen.
Notable Australian results 2013 > Inov-8 team mates Brendan Davies in 5th and Shona Stephenson 2nd. The 2014 date is yet to be set, but expect late April/early May 2014.
I weaved down the finishing chute, high-fiving those that where nice enough to cheer me on. Over the line I propped my hand on my knees and was overcome with relief and satisfaction. Looking up I was greeted by the smiling faces Aoki, Kenta, Takeshi and Keishi – my amazing crew for the past 23 hours. They looked as bad as I felt. Whoever moots that ultra running is an individual sport is dead wrong. We hugged and I thanked them before hobbling the half block to my Ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) for a nap. Ask me if I would run the Ultra Trail Mt Fuji again, and I wouldn’t be able to say why not. Coming from a small town in Southland, New Zealand, and now living in a village with a population of 25 people in the Canterbury high country, it is hard to imagine a bigger contrast in culture than Japan. The food, landscape, trails and people are amazing and for any runner, there is no better way to experience them all than by experiencing the Ultra Trail Mt Fuji *
Grant Guise is a Salomon-sponsored runner who spends his days running the Backcountry Runner blog and Trail Shop (www. backcountryrunner.co.nz), looking after his 16 month-old daughter and trying to decide what to call his son, expected in August. Grant finished his first 100mile race, UTMF, in 23hr13min, in 16th place.
www.ultratrailmtfuji.com/en
Whoever moots that ultra running is an individual sport is dead wrong.
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Feel the speed Teva Sphere Speed Great for > Mid range trail running (both distance and terrain technicality), door-to-trail, first step transitioning towards minimalist, runners looking for some arch support, obstacle coursers.
Not so great for > Hardcore trails, minimalist purists, racers, grip
Test conditions > singletrail and fire trail, soft to firm, a smidge of technical, rocky, 45km+
Tester > Chris Ord Tester mechanics > Mid-foot strike. Slight pronator. Prefers minimal shoes, but technical trail. Medium width feet. RRP > AU$199.98
Here’s the caveat on these new whizzbangs: they are not being touted as a purist trail shoe. Rather Teva – more renowned for their foot and sandal wear in the water world of paddling sports – has designed these as an all-round cross trainer. Specifically their speel says that they were “inspired by the unpredictable world of obstacle races and the athletes that are crazy enough to take them on.” 92
Teva Sphere Speed > trail shoe review
So keep that context in mind: they aren’t pretending to be a top line singletrack racer. What they are trying to do is be likeable to all-comers. And as with so many things that try to be all things to all people, they could be accused of missing the mark, but not by much. According to designers, the main highlight of these shoes is the spherical heel matched to two pods situated obtrusively under the foot arch. The rounded heel cuts down on superfluous heel bulk, but retains decent cushioning on the ball. The pods then act to give more midfoot cushioning while providing stability as the foot flows through motion. The pods are claimed to “improve your stride, reduce impact and promote stability on unpredictable terrain.” Despite the 4mm heel-to-toe drop the TevaSphere will probably not keep the minimalists happy at all (minimalist runners tend to avoid gimmicky add-ons like the pods), this shoe may just keep the cushion junkies trying to wean themselves off their habit well satisfied. They are a good middle ground product for transition running. The pods are a curse and a blessing in varying degrees. You do feel them, yet they don’t annoy as I expected they would. Where they come into their own is when you start to tire and your gait gets
a little sloppy (for those leaning to a mid to forefoot strike); these pods give you that little oomph of support without being a rock in your shoe and they give a little physical reminder that you technique is getting lazy and to get back up on stride. Still, part of me wanted to saw the pods off because I felt as though without them, the Tevaspheres would be a perfect mid range or crossover minimalist offering. Seriously. Look at these shoes and imagine them pod-less. Pretty sweet rig, huh? Yet like many other reviewers, I was pleasantly surprised with the overall comfort and trail performance of these shoes. They rode well, they gripped okay (but not brilliantly), toe protection was good and the wick and dry-off factor was better than most. They are no long rangers: Going anything more than about 15-20km and you’ll find it not soft enough for those who like that and too rigid and bulky for the true minimalists. Overall, a good shoe for your everyday trail run over mildly technical trails and shorter distances (or apparently an obstacle course).
www.kathmandu.com.au
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Salomon Sense Ultra
Ultra Sensitive
Great for > Weight watchers, trail racers, semi-minimalists, trail feel, Kilian groupies
Not so great for > Durability, the wallet, grip in mud or super slippery conditions
Test conditions > mostly fire trail with some singletrack, middling technicality, nothing too beefy, some sandy patches thrown in, 50km+
Tester > Garry Dagg (minimalist editor) Tester mechanics > Normally (trail) sandal wearing mild over-pronator with wide feet that haven’t seen the inside of too many running shoes too often – unless it’s of the pared down variety. The tester tries to run as light as possible while carrying an 80kg frame around the paddock RRP > AU$219.99
In amongst the marketing bunf, trademarked labels and radical names for products nutted out no doubt over long lunches it’s easy to miss fact on the Salomon S-lab Sense Ultras. Buried underneath labels of S-lab this and Exoskin that, in small font is a fact that belies the company’s spirit more than its marketing. Salomon remains based in Annecy. Nestled at the base of the French Alps and less than an hour from Switzerland and Italy, Salomon’s headquarters are surrounded by the most jaw-dropping and mouth-watering trails and mountains a runner can set eyes upon.
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Salomon Sense Ultra > trail shoe review
So while they continue to push the boundaries of the sport, funding the wildly individual career of Killian Jornet and pushing lightweight and resilient products onto the market, they retain that mountain origin. This combining of the serious nature of the Alpine with relentlessly innovative products has given birth to the Sense Ultra, which has listened to some concerns about the original Sense being too minimalist (and grip-less) and has been beefed out to withstand punishing ascents and descents all day long. This is not hard to understand. If you are sitting in an office in Annecy gazing on the gorgeous waters of Lac Annecy, framed by the foothills of Mont Blanc, you are going to be thinking of designing a shoe that can take you there, and keeping you there as long as possible. The Sense Ultra will have no problem with any terrain. They have notched up tread from the previous model so that the entire base of the shoe features deeper gripping lugs which give a very solid feel for such a light shoe (250 grams per shoe in a size 10). They are, for my uber-minimalist style (I run in sandals) a bit too stiff but my testing period was brief so no doubt with plenty more kilometers in them they would begin to bend and flex more. This stiffness offers a bit more
support as these shoes are intended to withstand the rigors of ultra racing. Their drop from heel to toe is 4mm but this new model has increased the cushioning somewhat so that there is 19mms of padding under heel. But while they might be knocking ever so gently at the door of the barefoot genre, there is no doubting what they are built to do. With King Killian as your tester, these are clearly built for a form of rugged minimalism – lightweight yet supportive enough to give cushioning and support for epic ups and downs. The quality of the finish is, as always, one of Salomon’s features. The Exo-skin makes the shoe form to your foot so it feels as much like a custom made slipper as an off-the shelf shoe, and the tongue and lacing system remain smart solutions keeping out grime. There has also been a narrowing of the toe box since the original Sense which if you’re got wide feet like myself makes them pretty snug up front but they remain a shoe which is designed to fit for form and feel. This is a serious shoe, which retains the brand’s consciousness for creating easily-worn, treads for trail runners, blending the best of minimalism with most people’s need for a certain level of cushioning and support, particularly into ultra distance and, as usual, made sure they have put it in a great looking package.
www.salomon.com/au
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Hail La Helios La Sportiva Helios Great for > Pretty much any trail conditions, especially where grip needed, fast racing, any distance Not so great for > Ice cold conditions
Test conditions > Mostly technical, groomed singletrail, soft to firm, wet, muddy, 60km
Tester > Chris Ord Tester mechanics > Mid-foot strike but gets lazy in the long run. Slight pronator. Prefers technical trail. Medium width feet. RRP > AU$149
Popular in Europe as a respected mountain brand offering a decent running product in amongst ski, trek, and climb niches, La Sportiva is only just making inroads to the local trail market.
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La Sportiva Helios > trail shoe review
For the most part the brand has stuck with traditional big-sole, beefy-grip peak monsters (a la the Wildcat 2.0 or Raptor) that look as though they may well keep running long after you’ve fallen from exhaustion, such is their brash, intimidating style. The Helios, then, stray from the protectionist approach of those other La Sportivas, and instead tread lightly down the more minimalist trail with a low-grade 4mm heel to toe drop and super lightweight construction. In fact, it was said to me that in their home country of Italy, runners regard these as the shopping shoes. I disagree. Smacking these around a few decent mountains in some fairly testing conditions (think Mount Buller just prior to snow season, on super technical - but groomed singletrack) they outperformed many of my other shoes in several respects. Firstly comfort: they feel like an old pair of favourite gadabout sneakers, and despite the minimal claim, seem to have a nice if subtle spring and squish in them. This is delivered by a combination of the ‘Morphodynamic’ foam in the mid sole, the wave-style design underneath and a unique variable-plane sole where the ‘topography’ (or ‘underography’?) of the grip undulates irregularly,
further increasing traction and providing a slip of tension between contact points and so spring in the landing. The sole and mid construction overall is where I see the big benefits of this shoe. It manages to provide a perfect balance of sucking and ‘morphing’ to the trail, cushioning and at the same time delivering enough trail feedback to keep you responsive to the terrain. Trail feel is better than expected given the 20mm-16mm sole thickness and the wave grip design gives the shoes great flexibility. The upper is lightweight and extremely breathable – meaning in cold conditions like Mount Buller your feet freeze: like I said, these are not like their protectionist La Sportiva brethren. Thermoplastic welding – akin to an exo-skeleton – together with a traditional lacing system keeps feet well in place. The Helios could perhaps benefit from some elasticised laces, as seen on a few of the The North Face models getting about (see review of Hyper Track Guide in this edition). The Helios shares pedigree with La Sportiva’s popular (in Europe and the States) Vertical K model, loved by fast, minimalist mountain racers belting big gradients. Essentially the Helios DNA has
been up-specced to deal with longer distances with more underfoot protection bolted into the EVA midsole via the addition of a 2mm LaSpeva plate: a thicker, more-resilient foam. A heel stabiliser also carries out its duties with aplomb. The fit I found to be suited to an Antipodean foot – theres more room across the forefoot, than in many other Euro models (such as Inov8s) where they keep the last on the narrow side. My only concern is durability, having not done enough distance on hard terrain to really gauge if they will cop a beating, but noticing lugs already on the wear, despite a denser rubber being used. Even so, these are a great all round shoe if you are tuned for the 4mm heel-toe drop and want to extract Tarzan-glue like grip from your shoes. They are one of, if not the best earth-clingers in the market, up there with Salomon’s Speedcross 3, although where those begin to aggravate when on anything but knarly, soft terrain, the Helios handle any surface hard, soft, smooth or otherwise in pleasing comfort. A popular all-terrain, all distance choice.
Stockists > www.expeditionequipment.com.au
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The North Face Hyper Track
Hyper slick
Great for > Fast running on assorted trails and fire roads, runners with good form, weekly training shoe, transition to mid/fore foot running
Not so great for > Wet and muddy trails, runners who prefer heavy support
Test conditions > Singletrail and fire trail, soft to firm, rocky, TNF50, 100km+ overall
Tester > Chris Ord Tester mechanics > Mid-foot strike but gets lazy in the long run. Slight pronator. Prefers technical trail. Medium width feet. RRP > AU$190
It’s always going to be a trade off when a brand tries to straddle the so-called door-to-trail niche.
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The North Face Hyper Track > trail shoe review
I’m a big fan of organising life so I never need to run too far on road to get to a trailhead. Also, my preferred trails are super techy and wild, so my personal selection of shoes is always a grippy-bear style of trail shoe. If a short dose of crappy concrete is required, I just put up with my bulldozer-lug shoes arguing with bitumen for a short stretch while I trot them over to the dirty side. My singletrail snobbery extends, if I am honest, to fire roads. I’m not a fan. But some trail runs (especially events) include them as necessity and admittedly some do plug into wonderful patches of wilderness. And so I see why a hybrid shoe like the Hyper should be a welcome member of my trail shoe trove. And so it was that after limited (45km) testing, I took the Hyper Guides to The North Face 100 ultra trail event in the Blue Mountains for another fifty-click outing. And the outcome was as golden as the shoe’s paint job. Although some queried my choice of clogs on the start line, my final judgement when I arrive back six hours later was that they matched the TNF100s mix of techy singletrack, road, and fire trail to a tee. The basics of this shoe are that they are a neutral construction, with less midsole structure to control pronation (if you are into that kind of thing). Rather the shoe relies on its proprietorial Cradle Guide technology
to encourage a natural biomechanically correct stride through three phases. Encourage. Not enforce. If you have poor form, no shoe’s gonna fix it, you know that, right? The shoe’s 8mm heel to toe drop places it squarely in the middle between minimalist (0-4mm drop) and traditional (10-14mm drop), making it a good crossover shoe for those transitioning their form to move their strike forward. So there’s enough cushioning in the rear, combined with the Cradle Guide, to keep the heel protected, but it’s far from a bubble shoe of spring. I’d even predict that many heading down the minimalist road may end up sticking with something like the Hyper or the likes of the Salmon Mantra (6mm), cutting their minimalist journey short by a way, satisfied with a middle ground compromise. It’s a fairly lightweight beast, the cushioning falling away considerably up front (from 16mm at the rear to 8mm at the front) to deliver what would be fair to say is a firm impact ride for those already falling to the forefoot. Towards the end of a fifty-kay run, my underfoot was starting to tenderize some – the cost of designers easing back on putting meat in the chassis. When it came to trail feel and control on tough terrain, these shoes
really shined. I felt I could stick my footing no matter how Fred Astaire I was getting. The tread does exhibit good grip on dry ground but with lugs toned right back to cope with the ‘road’ part of a hybrid life, traction was always going to suffer if a little. Any glisten of dew, aqua-splashed rock or in particular soft mud surfaces, and their tendency to loose a little grip had my confidence faltering some and my balls-out approach kicked back a gear. Stretchy laces keep the foot in place nicely without fear of instigating upper foot tendonitis (sometimes caused by laces being too tight across the top of the foot, especially in ultras where the foot swells. The elastic give in these laces means they accommodate this). The seamless upper is super breathable with welded overlays giving enough structure for some foot support up top, while the reflective tabs give added safety for the night runs. Thankfully of zero use on the TNF50, although had I run TNF100, it would have been handy. This is an ideal shoe for bush runners spending decent time on fire trails with a mix of single track thrown in, especially in summer where their breathable nature keeps your feet ventilated and quickly dry post creek crossing.
www.thenorthface.com.au
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presents
Trail Porn Image by Mark Watson
Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the biggest ultra and trail race in the nation and fittingly has some of the biggest views. Here a runner trots down the clifftop stairs near Olympian Rock, Leura, with views looking out at the backside of Three Sisters, Narrowneck and over Jamison Valley. www.inciteimages.com
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Scenes from The North face 100 2013. Images by (clockwise from right) > Lyndon Marceau www.marceauphotography.com Andy Green, and Mark Watson www.inciteimages.com
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trail porn >
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Left> Aussie Mick Donges on the fly trying to defend his Tarawera title. He ended up in fifth place. Photo by > Lyndon Marceau www.marceauphotography.com Top Right> Overlooking Governors Bay on a midnight run in the Christchurch Port Hills, New Zealand. Photo by > Jono King Bottom Right> Clare Weatherly on Quartz Ridge during the 100 mile La Sportiva Alpine Challenge, Victoria, Australia. Photo by > Matt Adams www.runningwild.net.au/alpine-challenge
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Left > Sage Canaday from the United States made his trip Down Under worthwhile with a win in the Tarawera Ultra. Photo by > Lyndon Marceau www.marceauphotography.com Right > Nepali trail runner Tashi Sherpa cruises the highlands at the 277km Mustang Trail Race multiday event, Nepal. Next edition 23 November 2013. Photo by > Richard Bull www.mustangtrailrace.com
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trail porn >
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presents
Trail G u i de s
You know they’re there: those pristine trails. Close. Not far from your doorstep. You can smell them…
Or maybe that’s just the sweet waft of dirt not-long ground into the lugs of your trail shoes, which sit by the front door — a welcome reminder of the weekend’s mountain jaunt. But the blood screams for more. The legs are sore, yet they pine for a warm down. A warm up. A flat out blast along some winding, wet, wonderful singletrack. But where to go? Only got an hour (which you know can stretch to three). Trail Mag has the answer(s). Here. In this guide. Each edition we’ll bring you step by step trail run guides, all within an hour of a major city or town in Australia or New Zealand, all between 5km and 30km, all worth zipping out to for a trail fix. We’ve also included some post-trail goodness ‘cause we’re human; we’re caffeine freaks too (strong latte – sometimes double espresso, but only on race days), and we love the smell of fresh eggs and bacon after pounding the paths. Welcome to the goodness guide.
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Win Salomon gear! We need trail correspondents! If you think there’s a cracking trail the world needs to know about, go research it, write it up, shoot a photo and send it in. We do have a bit of a style going, so be sure to check out the guidelines and download the pro forma before you do at > www.trailrunmag.com/contribute If your guide is chosen as the ‘Editor’s Pick’ of the issue, you’ll win some great Salomon Trail Gear. The best guide submitted to be published in Edition #10 (out September 2013) will receive an Agile 17 Hydro Pack (RRP $119), a stretch fit 17L beauty perfect for longer missions, plus a 1.5L Salomon bladder (RRP$59.99) and a 237mL Salomon soft flask (RRP$24.99). So go running, get writing and start window shopping at > www.salomon.com/au
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Lake Angelus t r ail tip s >
RU N IT >
NEARby town/CITY > St Arnaud, 7km; Nelson, 90km
Start at the Mt Robert car park, approx. 5km in after turning from the highway into the National Park on Mt Robert Ski Field Road.
to the Lake Angelus turnoff. At the sign, head down toward the left until reaching the brand new and very spacious Lake Angelus Hut.
exact location > Mt Robert Car Park, at the end of Mt Robert Ski Field Rd
Leave a note one the car dashboard with your details and expected return time. Check the DOC & METService websites, and have a chat with the local DOC rangers to get the latest weather and mountain conditions.
After a bit of a break enjoying the still waters of the lake and the majesty of those mountains, head back up the ridge to the turn off sign. From there, you can either head back along the ridge, or dip down the valley in front of you toward Speargrass Hut.
total ROUTE DISTANCE > 23km TIME TO RUN > 5 to 7hrs, depending on how much you are going for it, and how much you enjoy the views. TYPE OF TRAIL run > Circuit DIFFICULTY > Difficult to Very Difficult, a very technical trail in a remote location
Tackle the track heading up toward Robert’s Ridge. The Lake Angelus track is easy to navigate. It is a popular overnight tramping track to the Lake Angelus Hut (6 hours each way), and the DOC (Department Of Conservation) does a great job at, well, conserving it! The track is well signposted all the way, and markers show you the way in the tricky bouldery areas.
DEFINING CHARACTERISTICS >Mountainous, very rocky tracks, boulders, screes, some steep climbs and downhill, very technical; amazing views
Climb up to the ridge. It is 500m of climbing over the first 2km. The track follows switchbacks at the edge of the forest, taking you in and out of trees until you reach a first shelter and leave the forest behind. Pass a second older shelter and leave Paddy’s Track on your left, then start making your way along the ridge.
best MAPS > Get to the DOC Center and get 1:25.000 maps BR24 & BS24; otherwise get a free pdf copy online at www.linz.co.nz
From here, navigation is easy: simply follow the ridge for about 11km, leaving behind you the now-abandoned Mt Robert Skiing Resort, beautiful little mountain lakes, as well as a number of perpendicular ridges before getting
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La ke Angelu s & Ro bert Ri d ge, S ou th I sl an d, N Z > Your Guide Olivier Caire + Jaime Metcalfe
Speargrass Hut track is a 5km downhill (700m drop) through alpine meadows, screes and streams, directly below Robert’s Ridge. Once you get to the Speargrass Hut Bridge, leave the track to the hut on your left, and cross the river to join a track on the opposite bank. These last undulating 5km takes you through alpine forest, back to the Mt Robert car park. On this trail, you will come across a wide variety of terrain, most of it on the technical end of the range. From steep loose screes to large boulders of suspicious stability, you get the chance to put quick feet to the test and enjoy fast trail running; floating weightless from rock to rock, and enjoying the game for the game, rather than for the performance. This trail remains one of my purest running experiences: a mountain, some sun, beautiful landscapes, fun track and great company; what else is needed?!
WISE ADVICE > This track is remote; at the return point you will be 14k away from the nearest road. Make sure to pack plenty of food and water, have your first aid kit and plan for the worst weather-wise. The weather in alpine areas will change quickly and with little warnings, particularly along a ridge like this. Finally, make sure you let someone know where you are going and when you are expecting to be back.
post run goodness > There are few cafes in St Arnaud but the Alpine Lodge seems to be the popular choice with visitors. They also do accommodation and spa if the track and boulders have taken their toll… The Tophouse is also rated highly for both its café/bar and guesthouse.
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Wa r r i e C i r c u i t tra il ti p s >
RUN IT >
NEARby town/CITY > Mudgeeraba (24km, 45min drive)
A scenic loop track that can be run in either direction, although it is easier to traverse in a counter-clockwise direction (either way you head, it is a consistent downhill run into the valley, followed by a consistent uphill run out!). The track is predominantly hard-parked dirt with protruding roots in most parts, but it can be muddy after rainy periods. There are also sections where the dirt makes way for rock and stone that need a little care. There are a few fallen trees to be negotiated, but these have been well looked after by the Park Rangers and are features of the walk, rather than obstacles.
exact location > Tallanbana picnic area, Springbrook Plateau Section, Springbrook National Park total ROUTE DISTANCE > 13km-17km (depending on if you believe trail guide or GPS) TOTAL ASCENT/DESCENT > 875m TIME TO RUN > It depends how much you like climbing! Estimate that quicker runners will take 1.5-2 hours; easier pace 2.5-3 hours TYPE OF TRAIL run > Loop DIFFICULTY > Moderate, but the climb out is tough DEFINING CHARACTERISTICS > Rainforest, waterfalls, ascents Features of interest > Waterfalls, creek crossings, valley lookouts, old-growth rainforest to name but a few! best MAPS > Springbrook National Park Walking Trail Map, by DERM
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SP RINGBROO K > G O l d Coa st, Q LD > Your Guide Matt Judd www.juddadventures.com
The run can be started at either Canyon lookout or Tallanbana picnic area (both marked on the map), although the Tallanbana picnic area has public toilets and, as the name suggests, picnic facilities, so it’s a great place to finish up and further enjoy the surrounds. From Tallanbana picnic area, follow the obvious track away from the picnic area for about 250m until you reach your first trail junction. From here head counter-clockwise, following the signposted Warrie Track a short way before a second trail junction indicates a choice of the ‘Twin Falls Circuit’ or the ‘Warrie Circuit’. Follow the signs for the Warrie Circuit, which takes you east along the base of a series of cliffs to Goomoolahra Falls, where the track leads you behind the cascading water. From the falls a steady descent, which includes several creek crossings (that may or may not be wet depending on the season), takes you deep into the rainforest.
The lowest point of the track is just past the halfway point at the ‘Meeting of the Waters’, a pretty spot where all the watercourses draining the gorge meet. It is from here that the trail begins its steady climb back out of the gorge, mostly on switchback single-track. The only route decision on the way out occurs when the track again meets the signposted ‘Twin Falls Circuit’ (at just over the 10.5km mark according to GPS), at which point you join that circuit, continuing to follow the track in a counter-clockwise direction. This section of the track is spectacular. Follow the marked trail back to the Tallanbana picnic area...and you’re done!
post run goodness > Dancing Waters Cafe for a post run coffee fix and a late breakfast (opening times vary) or try the Springbrook General Store & Cafe for a relaxed breakfast or lunch on the verandah (10 Forestry Rd / 07 5533 5154).
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PIHA VALLEy LOOP t r ail tip s >
RU N IT >
NEARby town/CITY > Piha, 1km, Auckland 40km
So good are the trails found darting from Phia, on the coast west of Auckland in the Waitakere Ranges, that Trail Run Mag returns for a second helping, this valley run complementing the longer ‘surf and bush’ run, published in Edition 7.
exact location > Car park at end of Glen Esk Road, Piha total ROUTE DISTANCE > 13km TIME TO RUN > 1.5-2.5hrs TYPE OF TRAIL run > Loop DIFFICULTY > Moderate DEFINING CHARACTERISTICS > Winter mud, single track, roots, one technical rocky section with guide wire Features of interest > Historical Kauri dam, views down Piha Valley best MAPS > Auckland Council Recreation Map > ‘Waitakere Ranges Regional Park’ available from Arataki Visitors Centre
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From the Glen Esk Road car park, head across a small footbridge onto Piha Valley Track. The track meanders along through beautiful nikau and ponga. Look for fat native kereru (wood pigeons) skimming along the stream. Stay right at the junction with McKenzie Track; veer left at the junction with Centennial. Centennial Track climbs gently through dense bush, then descends a flight of steps to Black Rock Dam. Remnants of the old Kauri dam are visible in rectangular niches in the rock and a remaining solid trunk across the stream. Look for orange track markers across the stream upriver to the right (the old dam is a popular picnic spot so the trail appears to veer left). A rocky but runnable section follows to the junction with Forbes: stay right. The track becomes mildly technical as it climbs steadily towards Anawhata Road, including a steep, narrow rock wall with wires, steps and a handrail - at the top you are rewarded with amazing views down the valley to Piha At the junction with Quarry Track you have options: a short detour right, out to the road, then left up McElwain Lookout Track affords you a climb up the tower for spectacular views (continue along this loop track to rejoin Quarry).
P iha > North I s l a n d, N Z > Your Guide Vicki Woolley
Alternatively, turn left onto Quarry and run down a fairly technical section of trail: fast/fun when dry, muddy/fun when wet. Maungaroa Ridge Track starts on the far side of the clearing. This track has a certain notoriety as the first mainland Kauri suffering from PTA (Phytophthora taxons Agasis - Kauri dieback disease) were sighted here in 2006. Along this beautifully undulating track you will see glades of dead and dying Kauri juxtaposed with healthy but at-risk riccars (juvenile Kauri). Turn left onto Maungaroa Ridge Track to descend steeply through fabulously gnarled puriri trees – sometimes accompanied by commentary from a Piha surf event - out to Glen Esk Road where a short jog left returns you to the car park.
post run goodness > It is almost mandatory to visit the Piha Cafe after this run. Their All Day Kiwi Breakfast is as legendary as their pizzas – but time your run carefully if you want to be sure of a seat on a sunny day. Images > Phil Platt * Runner > Steven Neary
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WI S EM A N S FERRY
t r ail tip s >
RU N IT >
NEARby town/CITY > Closest town is Wisemans Ferry. Kiosk and toilets using recycled water at ferry point.
This run is groomed mostly non-technical trail that you can open up on, but the surrounding scenery is gorgeous and it’s a peaceful and under-used area for running. Steady gradient won’t turn you into a mountain goat but might just be what you need to steadily build strength and stamina. A unique aspect of this run is the fact that you start with a river crossing on a ferry. If you time your return right, you’ll hit the river as the sun is setting. A sweet end to the day!
exact location > End of Old Northern Rd, where it meets the Hawkesbury. Park, cross river on ferry, turn left. Trailhead roughly 1km along road, on the right. total ROUTE DISTANCE > 29km point to point, or 58km out and back TOTAL ASCENT/DESCENT > 740m asc/450m descent for point to point, or 1190m for both TIME TO RUN > 3.5hr for first half on a very ambling day, 7hr total. TYPE OF TRAIL run > Mostly groomed fire trail, with sandy and rock-surfaced sections and some short sections of single trail DIFFICULTY > Easy to moderate DEFINING CHARACTERISTICS > Scrubby bushland and gum forest, valley views, sub-tropical wet forests at the far end. Features of interest > Historical signs intermittently along the route, explaining the history of the trail and resources of the area, such as historic cobble stones and disused branches off the route. best MAPS > www.movescount.com/moves/move7053789 www.environment.nsw.gov.au/NationalParks
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Park, cross by foot on the ferry, turn left when you hit the road and run to the west for roughly 1km. Here you’ll hit the gates to the Old Great Northern Road on your right. Enter and enjoy. The road may still be closed due to a rockfall, sealed off by pink tape. Some of us, though, are more familiar with pink tape as a course marker… When in doubt, stick to the high road. The route is winding but clear for the entire run even though sometimes it narrows to scrubby or rocky single track. At 15km, the Buddhist retreat puts out a barrel of water for passersby. This might be your turnaround point, or your halfway marker, or refreshment you’ll visit again in a few hours on your way back. If you’ve kept going, you’ll hit 29km at the intersection of Bell Rd and Waratah Road. Either turn here OR if suitably timed, just 4km from here you’ll find a convenience store where money can be exchanged for frosty beverages. Otherwise, time to run on back.
post run goodness > Wisemans Coffee House is smack on the east bank of the river, coffees of unknown quality, or for a cold beer try the Wisemans Inn Hotel which has a decent deck with a view.
W I SEMANS F ERRY > N SW > Your Guide Roger Hanney
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www.trailrunmag.com
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