Souvenirs 2008

SOUVENIRS A Collection of International Experiences

Spring 2008

Featuring Beautiful photos from around the world Original stories about experiences abroad Articles with international advice A note on diplomacy from Senator Russ Feingold

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Staff

Postcard from the Editor

Editor-In-Chief Annie Kleinert

WUD Directors Publications Committee: Drew Egan Global Connections Committee: Shira Weiner

Submissions Reviewers Lily Atonio, Rachel Bowline, Amelia Foster, Zahra Haider, Sarah Horvath, Stephanie Krubsack, Johanna Lee, Allison Mack, Amelia Pisapia, Emily Smolarek

Contributing Writers Lily Atonio, Drew Egan, Amelia Foster, Sarah Horvath, Johanna Lee, Amelia Pisapia, Shira Weiner

Dear Readers, Every year, hundreds of University of Wisconsin-Madison students venture out into the world. They study in Vienna, volunteer for the Peace Corps in Cape Verde, and visit South Africa with Engineers Without Borders. Here, for the first time, is a compilation of their stories and photos, along with insights about living internationally.

The goal of “Souvenirs” is to share the extraordinary experiences of these students with you. I hope they inspire you to venture out for yourself and make memories of your own.

Bon voyage, Annie Kleinert

Advisors Vickie Eiden, Emily Villhauer

Contact Us uwsouvenirs@ gmail.com

“Lake Como, Italy” by Stephanie Tudor (2007)

Special Thank Yous

UW Language Institute Go Global!

WUD Publications Committee WUD Global Connections Committee Susan Dibbell Hank Walter Mark Guthier

Sponsors

The Wisconsin Union Directorate Memorial Union Building Association International Academic Programs The International Studies Department Peace Corps

On the Cover: “The Chicken Under the Tree” by Emily Singer Cairo, Egypt 2007 “Souvenir” – French; to remember

Souvenirs-Spring 2008

Explore What’s Inside

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Stories From Abroad 4

“You Can Run.You Can Hide. But Eventually,You’ll Have to Get Your Hair Cut.” by Evan Ryder

5 10 13 14 22

“Losing the Map, Finding My Way” by Nicole Fritz

24 28

“The Sweetest Gift” by Jayne Bielecki

“The Gift Shop” by Matthew Straub “Dancing the Cumbia in Colombia” by Molly Reddy “The Familiarity of a Strange Place” by Eric Schechter “The Epic Journey of a Moldovan Blues Band’s Road Trip to Kharkov, Ukraine” by Adam Goodberg

Excerpts from: “The Best Decision I Have Ever Made” by Alicia Ramirez, “Pilgrimage to Lake Baikal” by Lowell Klessig, and “Haiti”

by Matt Forrest

International Insights 6 “Supporting Citizen

Diplomacy in Congress”

by Senator Russ Feingold

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Working in a Foreign Country

12 18 19 26

Communication Abroad

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Ecotourism & Ecotravel

Campus Resources Health Issues Abroad Improving Language Skills

Photographs

Arranged by artist in alphabetical order

Nadja Albertsen (15) Allison Doyle (11) Tyler Falish (17, 22) Kristyn Fons (29) Gabrielle Hinahara (17) Sandra Knisely (16, 18, 25) Molly Reddy (19) Emily Singer (cover) Adam Sitte (8, 16, 20, 26) Liuyin (Lena) Song (9) Matthew Straub (10, 17, 27) Stephanie Tudor (2, 4) Scott Walker (5, 13)

Quotations throughout the journal compiled by Lily Atonio

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You Can Run. You Can Hide. But Eventually, You’ll Have to Get Your Hair Cut.

By Evan Ryder

We finally agreed to terms. He asked After my last trim in the U.S.—it had been almost two months—my barber me what directions I would have given gave me some advice. He told me that in English, which I couldn’t really I should find a French person with answer (it’s difficult when you always nice-looking hair, and then ask him just walk in and say, “Do the same thing where he got it cut. But since half of you’ve done for the last decade”). He young Parisian males look like they’re then recommended that I become some sprouting a Chia Pet rooster on their sort of haircut-translating professor, heads, I reconsidered taking his advice. which drew a haughty laugh from the woman waiting for My roommate had Paul Simon to finish gotten his cut at a up with her son. place down the street, Usually I’m not such and since it looked an easy target. like they had actually Art began to hack used tools that were away at cartoonmore precise than whirlwind speed, in lawnmower blades, I the process jerking ventured to the same my head from side to shop. side, implanting his It was a painful comb into the side of experience, both my skull, and scraping physically and off stray hairs with emotionally.

After a dry, single-blade waiting for about razor. By the time he forty-five minutes, was finished, I felt I was beckoned into a chair by the “Eiffel Tower” by Stephanie Tudor like I’d just spent a round in the ring French version of Art Paris, France 2007 with Apollo Creed.

Garfunkel. I politely “This—this is the haircut of Brad declined “un shampooing” (one of many hilarious adaptations of English Pitt!” he proudly exclaimed.

Brad Pitt in Fight Club, perhaps. words), after which he asked me the dreaded question: “So, how should I But despite the raw skin and small splotches of blood, it actually didn’t do this?”

I told him to “laissez deux centrimetres,” look too bad.

I bid adieu to Mr. Garfunkel. He which literally means “leave two centimeters.”

It wouldn’t be that smirked, and then replied, “à la easy, of course. Should he cut off two prochaine.”

Fine. But next time, I’m wearing a centimeters? Cut until two centimeters remained? Did I have two centimeters football helmet. of hair on my sideburns? Should he just jab his razor into my jugular instead, Evan Ryder studied in Paris, France in Fall 2007 and put me out of my misery?

“Kawaii” – Japanese; very cute

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Losing the Map, Finding My Way

By Nicole Fritz

“Una cosa es el mapa, otro es el territorio.” This is what my Castellano teacher told us one day in class: “One thing is the map, another is the land.”

This quote was my life in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

I ventured to Buenos Aires with a mission and a plan: I was going to spend five months immersed in Argentina and return home fluent in Spanish. Instead, I got lost for two hours the first day and continued to get lost every day after.

The problem was Buenos Aires looked so easy on my bus guide, the essential Guia T. My Guia T told me there were only two insignificant centimeters separating me from my destination: the Central Post Office. But those two itsy bitsy centimeters turned out to be filled with nine-lane highways, trucks that don’t yield to pedestrians, and mislabeled street signs.

My Guia T told me I only had to walk four blocks from my subte stop to a trendy downtown restaurant. But within those four simple blocks was a two-block protest complete with banners, drums, and police barricades.

My guide told me I just had to take bus number 29 from the movie theater to get the relative comfort of “home.”

But I ended up headed to Boca, the colorful but dangerous barrio of Buenos Aires…at midnight.

The path is never as easy or clear as it looks on paper. On paper, in black and white, my life made sense, it had an order. But once I stepped off that page, huge semis tried to run me over.

Everything was planned out before I left for Argentina. I had a list of clothes to pack, a list of contacts in the city, a list of places to see. But then I

Photo by Scott Walker got to Buenos Aires and all my lists disintegrated before my eyes. All of those words on paper were not real.

They were just the plans I made waiting for reality to begin.

So I threw away all my plans and lists, both written and unwritten. I dumped my map and guide book. And I discovered Argentina.

I found a café that sold a café con leche and three pastries for US$1.25. I found a book fair that I could wander through for hours with its aisles of old, leathercovered books. I found a jazz bar that had open mic nights every Friday.

And I found that Argentina looks even better without the map.

It seemed the only way I could actually find my way in the city was when I stopped looking at the map and started seeing Buenos Aires.

Nicole Fritz studied in Buenos Aires, Argentina from July to December, 2007

“Du arc en vakker blomst” – Norweigan; you are a pretty flower

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Supporting Citizen Diplomacy in Congress

By U.S. Senator Russ Feingold As a U.S. senator, I have International service improves many opportunities to see how the United States’ security interests international service benefits by helping to counter inaccurate, Americans individually, and benefits negative generalizations and our nation as a whole. People-to- stereotypes about our country. people engagement has always People-to-people engagement been one of the United States’ most directly invests our citizens - our effective public diplomacy tools best assets in reducing negativity and today, more than ever, we need towards the United States – in this to be investing in every opportunity essential endeavor. A June 2007 to improve the perception of Pew Global Opinion poll found our nation overseas. As a UW- that “this distinction [between U.S. Madison alumnus, I’m very proud policy verses Americans themselves] of how many people on campus are is particularly evident in Western reaching out beyond our borders to nations. For example, while only 30 become citizen diplomats. percent of Germans have a positive Those efforts are more important view of the U.S., 63 percent have than ever in a post 9/11 world. a favorable opinion of Americans.

Indeed, a recent Pew Global Similarly, only 46 percent of Attitudes report found that “Since Swedes give a positive rating to the 2002…the image of the United U.S. as a country, but 73 percent States has declined in most parts have a favorable impression of the of the world” and that, “in many American people.” countries, the American people get The United States government better ratings than does the U.S. needs to enhance its commitment generally.” to promoting international service Since I was elected to Congress in and expand and strengthen those 1993, I have traveled annually to all programs that already exist. For 72 counties in Wisconsin for town- example, the Department of hall meetings. At these meetings, State’s Bureau of Education I often meet Wisconsinites who and Cultural Affairs (ECA) has a have volunteered overseas, and number of programs that range get a chance to hear their stories. from sports exchanges to academic Time and again, I’m impressed by opportunities.

These programs how each of the connections that provide invaluable citizen-topeople make as citizen diplomats, citizen exchanges and foster taken together, can make such a big greater cultural understanding. and positive difference in the way Unfortunately, programs like ECA America is perceived around the remain drastically under-funded. world.

For over 40 years, the Peace “Aloha” – Hawaiian; affection, love, peace, compassion, mercy, goodbye, hello

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Corps has contributed significantly support to those who cannot to building bridges across cultures. afford the costs associated with The required two-year commitment volunteering overseas. What we are provides the opportunity for failing to do is to complement these volunteers to develop deeper and important programs with more longer lasting relationships which flexible opportunities that address they continue to cultivate long after some of the limitations that make their program has ended. it difficult for some Americans to The U.S. Agency for International participate in current programs.

Development also promotes citizen For this reason, in February diplomacy through humanitarian 2008, I introduced the Global assistance programs, and in Service Fellowship Program Act. particular,by managing an important This bipartisan bill would provide presidential initiative – Volunteers more Americans the opportunity for Prosperity (VFP). to volunteer overseas VFP – part of USA and strengthen our Freedom Corps – existing federal connects skilled international volunteers with education and international agencies exchange system. needing volunteers.

I believe the U.S. While these government needs to programs are be taking a greater essential to our citizen role in expanding and diplomacy, they adding to existing represent only a few opportunities for U.S. of the opportunities citizens to volunteer available to volunteers overseas and my through the federal Senator Feingold (right) in Ethiopia bill will enhance government – many U.S. efforts to be a others exist within other agencies global leader in people-to-people that are worth exploring. However, engagement. gaps remain in the spectrum of My bill not only provides more possible volunteer opportunities opportunities for this type of that are supported or organized by engagement, but it also reduces our federal government. Skilled barriers that the average citizen professionals are selected for faces when trying to volunteer specific U.S.-designated missions internationally. First and foremost, in the ECA; Peace Corps volunteers my bill would reduce financial must commit two years of their life barriers by awarding tax-free to the program; and VFP connects fellowships designed to defray volunteers to opportunities but is some of the costs associated with unable to provide adequate financial Continued on page 6 “Komsa-ha-mida” – Korean; thank you

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Continued from page 5

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volunteering. These fellowships are applicable to airfare, housing, or program costs, to name a few examples. By providing financial assistance, the Global Service Fellowship program opens the door for every American to be a participant – not just those with the resources to pay for it.

Secondly, my bill reduces volunteering barriers by offering flexibility in the length of the volunteer opportunity. I often hear from Wisconsinites who do not seek opportunities to participate in federal volunteer programs because they cannot leave their jobs or family for long periods of time.

The Global Service Fellowship Programs offer volunteers the opportunity to volunteer on a schedule that works for them – from a month up to a year. This provides a commonsense approach to the time constraints encountered

by the average American. Not only does this bill open the door for any U.S. citizen to apply for fellowship consideration, it involves Congress in the volunteer process, enabling members to hear firsthand the benefit international volunteering brings to their communities and to the nation writ large.

Reducing anti-American sentiment is critical to our national security.

UW-Madison students and alums are making an enormous contribution to changing the way the United States is perceived by showing people around the world, with their hard work, generosity and humility, the true character of the American people. The Global Service Fellowship program would be important way to support the outstanding efforts of even more citizen diplomats both here at home and abroad.

“Citadel Courtyard” by Adam Sitte taken in Cairo, Egypt in 2007 “Glücke pilze” – German; you’re lucky (lit. lucky mushroom)

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Working in a Foreign Country

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By Amelia Pisapia It was the second day of my internship to the experience. Mark Lillenleht, Go Global! with a refugee organization in Rome, Italy. Program Coordinator at UW-Madison, offers Furiously attempting to make progress on a bit more insight, suggesting that you read as my overwhelming workload, I noticed the much as you can about the environment in frame of an elderly Pilipino woman in the which you are going to be working as well doorway. She came to inform me it was time as formulate an exit strategy incase things for the office coffee break. As I looked at the do not go as planned. A harsh reality, yes; clock she sensed my hesitation and assured however, not all work experiences (at home me that there would be time later to finish or abroad) are positive ones. my work. From the woman’s When looking for work demeanor I could tell that opportunities abroad a declining the invite was sure great place to start is the to offend. I succumbed, saved Go Global! International the document I was working Careers website (http:// on, and accompanied her go.global.wisc.edu/). A to the break room. From goldmine of knowledge, that day on, no matter my the site offers tips on workload, I was expected to how to take advantage spend thirty minutes every of on campus resources morning having coffee, eating and provides a list of snacks, and socializing with international job search “A La Mode au Champs-Elysees”

By Liuyin (Lena) Song my coworkers. Looking back engines organized by Paris, France 2007 on things, the fact that half of professional interest or my interview was conducted over a cigarette regional listings.The site also boasts internship break should have been an indication that this advising for those who are interested in an was going to be unlike any work environment international work opportunity and need I had ever experienced. help getting started.

This particular instance is an incredible If you decide to take the adventurous route illustration of the differences between and move to a country in hopes of finding work American work environments and those upon arrival, check with an embassy prior to abroad. Had this been an American departure to complete the necessary paperwork workplace, it would have been easy to say required by law. I’d imagine deportation is not a no. It would have been easy to write off my particularly enjoyable experience. coworkers and chain myself to my desk. For International work experience not only provides many people in the U.S. work is life; however, an incredible opportunity for personal growth elsewhere work is merely a part of life. but also makes a résumé more competitive.

How does one go about preparing him or Employees with international experience are herself for this? Leave the majority of things valuable assets to many companies.Take advantage you’ve learned in American workplaces at of the opportunities available at UW-Madison the departure gate and be completely open and make the world your workplace.

“Halt, dies ist Hammer Timen” – German; stop, it’s hammer time

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The Gift Shop

By Matthew Straub

There was a gift shop. Of all the things. A gift shop. Amidst the tanks, planes, prison cells, and photographs of unimaginable violence, Ho Chi Minh City’s War Remnants Museum – a memorial of the Vietnam War – had a gift shop.

I had spent several minutes at an exhibit gazing wide-eyed at a photograph of an American soldier holding the exploded remains of a Vietnamese fighter. The fighter’s head and one arm were the only discernible parts, and it was all connected by a tangled mess of flesh. Less than half an hour later I was in the museum’s gift shop. A fucking gift shop.

Did no one else see the sick irony in selling miniature airplanes and helicopters fashioned out of bullets – the very same type of bullets responsible for the heaping piles of dead civilians pictured so brazenly

not 100 yards away? Figurines of tanks and bombers were also being sold, figurines whose lifesized counterparts littered the yard surrounding the museum.

These were vehicles in which and by which many people died. Were these trinkets really the sort of thing visitors wanted to bring back from Vietnam? Were these the images Vietnam wanted us to make souvenirs of? And everywhere tourists smiled and posed in front of helicopters and tanks to have their pictures taken. The deaths of millions were being exploited for touristy scrapbook pages.

I have stood at a concentration camp in Germany and seen the photographic evidence of what happened to those victims. I stood where many of them died. But that site is left as a memorial, and is not commemorated with any goddamn gift shops.

G e o g r a p h i c a l l y, the Vietnam War was far more removed from us than the Holocaust of World War II, and yet the War Remnants Museum hit me much harder and far more personally because my own country was more directly involved.

“Curiosity” by Matthew Straub In Germany I saw Jayaramapuram, India 2007 horrific depictions “Bao-xiao” – Mandarin; very funny

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“Timeless Paris” by Allison Doyle taken in Paris, France in 2007 of what they did to the Jews comes to our own they are treated and other groups of people. In as negligible.

These monstrous acts are excused Vietnam I saw what we did to the Vietnamese. Horrible things, about as a result of chaotic times of warfare which I apparently knew very little. and are packaged up in neat glass I was never taught in school that boxes and put in museums. What we Americans wielded a guillotine are responsible for in Vietnam less as recently as 1970 in Vietnam. I than 30 years ago is ancient history, was not taught that elderly men, and something worthy of mention women, and even babies were only in Vietnam itself, where few military targets. I did not know Americans ever go.

It is incredible, how much history that Americans had ever put so much effort into contriving dozens can change when you see the of creative ways to torture other other side’s perspective. I stood on Vietnamese soil and saw the war humans.

In high school we spent weeks from their side. It was far worse, learning about the Holocaust in far more disturbing, and far more different classes. Why is it that personal than the war I had learned I never learned that the actions of in school. What other ugly spots of American soldiers during the on our records have my textbooks Vietnam War so closely emulated skipped over? the actions of the Nazis? I will never understand how American Matthew Straub spent Spring 2007 history books see fit to dwell on the with Semester at Sea, visiting war crimes of others, but when it numerous countries “Ho-jia” – Taiwanese; delicious

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Communication Abroad

By Sarah Horvath

Keeping up with the folks back home while you are half way around the world seems like a daunting task even for the most social butterfly. Staying in touch with friends and family is difficult even within the same city because of everyone’s busy schedules.

Never fear, there are many communication solutions for the international Badger.

The first, most traditional way to stay in touch is to write letters. Unfortunately, postage can get expensive quickly and mail service is often slow. Thanks to technology, there are ways to share your experience with friends and family quickly and without having to sacrifice buying food. A quick internet search before you leave will give you tons of ideas about how to stay in touch. Below are brief explanations of a few of the many resources available.

If you want to call home there are several options. You can purchase a calling card before you leave from stores like Target or Wal-Mart and use them wherever you find a phone. Some U.S. cell phones will work abroad. Contact your service provider to find out about additional fees and service coverage. International prepaid cell phones are also avaible for purchase or rental. Many will be more economical than using your current provider. Telestial Wireless Solutions (www.telestial.com) or Cellular Abroad (www.cellularabroad.com) offer a variety of packages, many of which include free incoming calls and text messages.

Skype is a downloadable program that allows users to make free voice and video calls over the internet. For a fee, users can also send and receive calls and voice messages from cell phones and landlines. Skype is easy to use and compatible with many operating

systems.This is a great way to cut down your cell phone bill while in the U.S., too.Visit www. skype.com to download this program.

Blogging is an excellent way to narrate your trip to many people. Check out livejournal. com or blogger.com. These are free internet journals that all of your friends and family can read. You can personalize your page, write about your adventures, add pictures, and your audience can comment on your posts. There are security features that allow you to ensure that only the people who you want to read about your impromptu skinny dipping excursion will be able to do so. A similar option is creating a Facebook group.

You can message all the members and they can interact with each other and you.

If photos are more your style, you can create an account to organize and share your pictures over the internet for free. Upload your pictures as you go at www.flickr.com.

Flickr offers security and copyright protection, and you can use the many features like the map to show where the picture was taken or to make prints. You can even order postage stamps with your pictures on them.

Find nearby Internet access before you leave to make sure your grand blogging plans will not be foiled. Visit www.jiwire.com to find the addresses of free and paid WiFi hotspots all over the world. Internet cafes can be found at www.cybercafes.com. This website offers up the name, address, contact information, pricing, and facility information for internet cafes in 141 countries. Be sure to compare the environments in a few cafes to make sure it will work for your purposes.

Hopefully these hints will be useful in helping you “make new friends but keep the old” while you are abroad.

“Sedikit demi sedikit lama lama menjade bukit” – Indonesian; a little by little it will become a mountain one day

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Dancing the Cumbia in Colombia

By Molly Reddy

As I step out of the taxi the aroma This seems to create a more weighty of cinnamon and filth dances in the contrast than my five-ten frame air, cumbia1 steps that seem to be could ever carry. But, as a barefoot choreographed for the smog. The African woman selling fruit from a smog that inevitably comes along basket on her head brushes elbows with a developing city nestled in with a man, briefcased and business the valley of 14 mountains, and that suited, everyone continues their will without a doubt turn tissues daily dance, unquestioning. Maybe black for people who don’t call this place home.

“Chiquita grande, agua: cien pesos, gringa, gringa, promoción, mona linda!”2 Hundreds of calls fill the air; some people want to sell me things, and others just want to call attention to the obvious contrast Photo by Scott Walker I create walking down the street at five feet ten inches tall with pale skin and green eyes. It is enough it’s because they already know the to make people stop in their tracks steps, or maybe their feet just can’t and stare for a straight half hour, escape the rhythm.

1. Cumbia: a type of Latin-American should the time and situation allow.

But let’s be honest, it’s Colombia, dance music of Colombian origin, similar to salsa and using guitars, accordions, bass and time always allows.

While my presence warrants guitar, and percussion.

2. Little, big girl, water: one hundred double glances from every passerby, pesos, foreigner, foreigner, sale, cute light no one seems to notice the skinned girl. shantytown next to the river that is 3. Parque: park set against a backdrop of the latest government-built parque3 complete with seven fountains, three Molly Reddy studied in Medellin, sculptures, and a bamboo forest. Colombia from June to August 2007 “Chouette” – French; peachy-keen, hunky-dory

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The Familiarity of a Strange Place

By Eric Schechter

I spent my 21st birthday with down under for a year? How does strangers on Harleys. I called my the flat Midwest stand against the mom and took out $70 from the burning Pacific-rim? Actually, not ATM machine. I bought beer, wine, too bad. and liquor, and a new notebook and The first reaction I’m likely to get full ink pens. The night was spent when someone hears my Yankee in literary drunkenness—sloppy, accent is, “Oh, you’re American.” desperate drunkenness. And in The words tend to fall out in a wave of the city, the rumble of motorcycles repulsion and annoyance, collecting echoed off buildings and through like blood in a pool beside me. ‘Yes,’ alleys. The weekend was the I think. ‘This person wants to be my 100th anniversary of the great friend.’ Indeed, before hearing my Harley Davidson motorcycle, and theories on life, God, and drugs, or thousands of greased-up, drunk any wild tales from my formative bikers descended upon the city. period of adolescent thrill, they For them, it was a fantastic holiday have confidently classified me into from the drone of blue-collar a God-fearing, blindly patriotic, deserts, finally on top of the heap. Bush-loving American. “Y’all eat For me, it was a true celebration— beef!? Wha hell, met me dahn at an American celebration. the raaanch cawboy, I’m-a grab me And now, a year later, I turn 22 ma daddy’s shatghun and we gunna snowboarding the mountains of New get us sum squirrel!” No, not me. My Zealand. This comes after a short friends and I are the long-haired, 10-day tour of Fiji and six months sandal wearing type. Vegetarians, of study in Australia. In Fiji, we rode mate. horseback through dense rainforest It’s not too big of a deal, but the and drank a native intoxicant stereotypes are hurtles that have called Kava. I slept in a shack with to be overcome to enter into any chickens and ate rice sitting on the kind of meaningful conversation. ground, half-expecting my face to Once that’s done, people often appear in National Geographic. An inquire about what America amazing experience, to say the least, is really like. I tell them about and that was way back in February. Madison and Milwaukee; about Two months ago, I departed New Boulder, Colorado and northern Zealand, and today I find myself California—the places they’re not tucked away, deep within The Bush, likely to hear about. And after back in Australia—the ninth month some time, as their interest begins of my trip. to wane, I sigh and try to think of So, what does it feel like for a something magically American Wisconsin student to be living to reveal. But in the end, I find “Tayib” – Arabic; tasty (food), good-hearted (of a person)

Souvenirs-Spring 2008 myself reverting back to the simple truth of the situation: it’s largely the same culture. Of course, there are thousands of little differences, which, taken as a whole, create the mosaic of a foreign country. For example, Australia doesn’t have pennies, but does offer a half- or full-flush option on their toilets.

Back home everything appears faster, we say “terrorism” more and

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gators out back, with whom they occasionally wrestle in a Fosters beer haze—though those people do exist. Likewise, it’s unreasonable to think that because I was born in America I love McDonald’s, guns, and Wall Street.

I guess the point I’m trying to make is that wherever someone goes, he or she is bound to find a mean, washed up hermit, as well

“Winter in New York” by Nadja Albertsen, an international student seem to have larger soccer-moms. as a dynamic peace-loving person.

Also, any movie or TV show that It’s true for both the ancient shores is released in America usually hits of Australia and the free lands of Australian shores six months to a America. Australia is a beautiful year later. But, in the end, daily life country that I feel privileged to is much the same. have visited. And America is my Usually, comparing two countries home, which I view with kind eyes has built-in implications because and excitement for my return. I’ll you are bound to generalize in see you all on the flip side. untruthful ways. Just because someone is Australian doesn’t Eric Schechter studied in Australia mean they keep nine foot long in 2004 “Toot” – Arabic; mulberries, sweet girl (Moroccan slang)

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“Smiles in a Refugee Camp” by Adam Sitte Bethlehem, West Bank 2007

“Bedouin Content” by Adam Sitte Dahab, Egypt 2007

“The Bluest” by Sandra Knisely Cape Point, South Africa 2008

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“Venetian Laundry” by Tyler Falish Venice, Italy 2007

“Before Buddha” by Matthew Straub Penang, Malaysia 2007 “Infinito” by Gabrielle Hinahara Hot springs in Mexico 2007

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Campus Resources

By Shira Weiner

Study Abroad Offices

1. International Academic Programs www.studyabroad.wisc.edu/ peeradvisor@bascom.wisc.edu International Academic Programs (IAP) offers more than 94 study abroad programs to UW-Madison students 2. College of Agriculture and Life Sciences - Study Abroad Programs http://www.cals.wisc.edu/studyabroad/ studyabroad@cals.wisc.edu 3. School of Business International Programs http://www.bus.wisc.edu/international/ 4. School of Engineering http://studentservices.engr.wisc.edu/international/ 5. University of Wisconsin System International Programs www.uwsa.edu/acss/abroad/index.htm A database for study abroad opportunities throughout the UW System

Academic Departments

1. Language Institute www.languageinstitute.wisc.edu Find out about all the exciting foreign language opportunities and programs UW offers 2. Global Studies http://global.wisc.edu/

“Open the Doors of Hope” by Sandra Knisely Cape Town, South Africa 2008

Career Services

http://go.global.wisc.edu/ An international careers website and advising from the Letters and Science School of Human Ecology Career Services

Other Organizations/Departments

1. Morgridge Center for Public Service http://www.morgridge.wisc.edu/ Info on local, national, and international volunteer opportunities 2. Peace Corps www.cals.wisc.edu/ip/peace_corps Talk to UW’s Peace Corps representatives

“Bi kashteski merel i yag” – Romany; without wood the fire would die

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Health Issues Abroad

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By Johanna Lee

Once you have decided where you are going for your abroad experience, the planning must begin. One way to aid in the success of your time abroad is to remain perfectly healthy, with no maintenance required, the entire time you are away.

Unfortunately, as a college student, you probably understand this to be nearly impossible, and so you must plan ahead of time what you can do to remain as healthy as possible while you are gone.

One of the first things to do is to check the government’s Center for Disease Control website (www.cdc.gov). Here, you can search specific destinations across the globe to find information about health risks that exist for those areas and required and/ or suggested vaccinations or prescriptions that you should receive before you leave. In addition, in order to receive any vaccinations, etc. that are necessary, it is best to make an appointment with a travel clinic.

The doctors and nurses that staff these clinics can give you even more information about where you are traveling to, as well as get you the medications you may need.

Make sure to provide the locations of all the places to which you intend to go because while there may not be risks in the area where you will be spending the majority of your time, locales nearby that you plan to visit may have them. The more information you are able to provide (or questions you ask), the more the people at the travel clinic can tell you. And also, make your appointment well in advance of the date you are leaving. These clinics are not exactly numerous and so they book quickly. Additionally, there is a chance that

some vaccination, etc. may need some time in your system (or, there may be a series of them) before it will be effective.

Don’t take any chances and make your appointment as soon as you can.

Besides new medications that you may need to start or get, it is very likely that you are already prescribed certain medications.

If you are traveling for a semester or less, the best option is probably to take the amount you will need with you. Most likely, you will need your doctor to write you a new prescription that gives you a supply of several months. This may or may not cause you to run into some issues with your insurance company (if you have one).

Contact them as well and tell them about your travel plans. You should be able, then,

“Feria de las Flores” by Molly Reddy Medellin, Colombia 2007

to get them to approve you receiving a larger supply of your medication(s) than they otherwise would (and still cover it/them). If you plan to be abroad for longer than a semester (say more than six months), it may be more difficult to bring that large of a supply with you, depending Continued on page 20 “Sbrigati” – Italian; hurry up

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“Serenity in Mosque” by Adam Sitte taken in Cairo, Egypt in 2007 Continued from page 19

on the prescription. If you think it is possible, try to do it. Otherwise, talk with your doctor about other ways of getting the prescriptions while abroad. It may be possible to simply go to a pharmacy there and buy them, but you really need to make sure before you leave. Another option some choose, depending upon the prescription, is to just not take it while they are abroad. Again, talk to your doctor about what the safest and healthiest option is for you.

Finally, many abroad programs require that you have health insurance during your stay. In fact, many programs include a traveler’s health insurance plan in their fees, so you are automatically covered (all UW programs are this way). However, it may be necessary to extend this plan if you intend to keep traveling after the program ends. This is typically not a problem, but may require a small fee. If you already have health insurance, research what kind of

coverage you get while traveling – it would probably be best to contact them. If you do not have health insurance and there is no plan included in your program, I highly suggest looking into getting one. There are companies that specialize in this kind of insurance and often the plans come at very reasonable prices.

Obviously, there are a variety of other health issues that may arise on a caseto-case basis. Ask lots of questions of health professionals, advisors, programs coordinators, and previous abroad participants and it is fairly likely that you will get all the information you need to remain at your best during your experience abroad.

“Tudo bem?” – Portuguese; how are you?

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The Epic Journey of a Moldovan Blues Band’s Road Trip to Kharkov, Ukraine

By Adam Goodberg

Oleg the Monk herded us towards the mini-van on a Saturday afternoon. Although he was the organizer, it was he who took the last swig of cognac there at the train station and he, in his black leather jacket, black bandana, and black t-shirt, who entered the van last.

“Poexali!” he shouted from the front. We lurched onwards toward the Russian border.

There were 17 of us, the combination of three bands auditioning for spots in the summer music festival. Up front driving was Sergei, a large Soviet man who came for us in Chisinau from Tiraspol, the breakaway capital of

Transdniestria. The Monk turned around from up front and smiled.

He had found Sergei at half the price of any Moldovan driver. We were 14 musicians wearing black, plus The Monk and Sergei up front.

In a grand social experiment, the Monk had invited aboard Masha, a darling young lady, as the muse of our entourage. The cognac passed from hand to hand and Masha wasn’t shy.

“Okay, hai!” she said and poured it down. Andrei Tixii, the leader of Tixii Omut, my band, gave her a big hug.

“You are one of us now!” he said. “You must to come on stage

“Calm” by Tyler Falish taken in Bruges, Belgium in 2007 “Lete maji moto, tafadhali” – Swahili; bring me hot water please

Souvenirs-Spring 2008 with us!” Masha giggled and took a picture and said something to Oleg.

By evening we were through border control and thoroughly drunk. It was a 17-hour drive through Ukraine, including a 3 a.m. breakdown near a sign that said Nokia. There was no music and no sleeping, only swearing and shouting.

“Hey, bliad!” Andrei Tixii shouted out at passing cars. Tixii means quiet; with him, the name inspired reflection.

We got to Kharkov a few hours before the audition.The streets were Soviet: grey buildings and slush on the ground. The Monk swaggered in to talk with the management and we started to unload our amplifiers.

As the harmonica player, my burden was the lightest. The club’s artistic struggle against the bleak former Soviet world outside took the form of green aliens along the walls. We piled our gear into a booth and looked at the competition. There was a girl in a green hula skirt and a young man in a Hawaiian shirt.

With a few hours to spare we sat down and, in keeping with Tixii Omut style, continued to drink. A month earlier we had had a similar wait before a show. Andrei had drunk so much he smashed his electric tuner on stage and said, “This is the end of Tixii Omut!” Yet here we were.

We played for fifteen minutes in front of the jury, the other bands, and the green aliens. Andrei and I let off solos like Stevie Ray Vaughan

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and a moment later we were sitting down drinking again.

It was Sunday night that we left homeward. Our bassist was awarded a case of beer for having the most interesting profession – he was a trolleybus driver in Chisinau. So back in the van we started with the beer, complained about the other bands, and kept drinking.

“Hey, bliad!” Andrei said, and raised his plastic beer bottle. “Did you see how much we rocked?”

Oleg agreed and it was a happy 15 hours back to Tiraspol, where the driver decided he would end his journey. Poor Masha looked like she would swear off rock music after 30 hours riding with us.

We transferred to a public bus, took out our instruments, and played blues for all the citizen passengers.

Andrei played his acoustic and I played my harmonicas all the way to Chisinau. It was music from the heart to an audience that needed some happy notes. Here, John Lee Hooker was much more worthwhile than our 15 minutes of fame in Kharkov.

Adam Goodberg volunteered in the Peace Corps from 2005 to 2007 in Chisinau, Republic of Moldova

“Pomshele” – Nigerian Pidgin; fine girl, chick

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The Sweetest Gift

By Jayne Bielecki

I went into Peace Corps thinking skinny and naked. His big, dark I would be helping the neediest brown eyes were framed by long people in the world. It made me eyelashes and a shaved head. He proud to think that I was sacrificing sucked on a piece of candy and two years of my life for others. I was had developed a black ring of dirt positive I would teach the locals around his mouth. His nose ran something, improve their lives, and with thick green snot that he wiped begin the process of saving the away with the back of his hands. world. The Peace Corps warned us His hands were covered in streaks about thinking too idealistically, of black, snotty mud. Slowly, he but I knew I was different. This was reached one of them out towards my calling. me.

It was early on in my Peace Corps He opened his hand wide. Inside, service and I was in the throes of a beautiful, bright gold wrapper culture shock. Some days it was all glimmered in the sun. I hesitated, I could do to talk myself into going mesmerized by its loveliness. out in public. Today was a good Thinking I hadn’t understood, he day, though. I was ready to deal thrust his hand forward and nodded with staring eyes and a barrage of his head at me to take his last piece conversation as I made my way into of candy. I delicately reached out to the main village for supplies. take his gift. I opened the wrapper People smiled and greeted me and put the treat in my mouth. while they gawked wide-eyed and I smiled, worked to control my unabashed. A woman I didn’t shaky voice, and thanked him. He know stopped me to talk. I made smiled huge and stood next to me. an earnest effort to listen and We stood there together, smacking understand what she said, but my on our pieces of hard candy and concentration quickly withered. I enjoying it. I looked at him again, let myself get distracted by a couple holding back my tears. “Obrigada,” of boys playing nearby. After a I said once more, wanting to make moment, one of the boys walked sure he understood how much his over to me. He stared at me. Then he generosity meant to me. Then I cautiously inched closer. I imagined quickly said goodbye. how brave he thought he was for As I walked away I was overcome being so close to the pale stranger. I with emotion. Words cannot smiled at my silly thought. describe how unworthy I felt to He smiled back. Our eyes met receive such a sweet gift. My mind and we held each others’ gaze for reeled as I tried to comprehend a moment. He couldn’t have been what had just happened. I had more than three years old. He was spent money on meaningless key “How far?” – Nigerian Pidgin; what’s up, hi

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chains and pens to present to the locals as souvenirs of my stay. They seemed worthless compared to his generosity.

I had been so sure I would leave the villagers with a better existence. I had some strange notion that sacrificing my great American life for two whole years would be the greatest thing I ever did. And it was, not for my original reasons, but because I was shown the true meaning of kindness and unselfishness. In the end I received the sweetest gift, and I carry it with me everywhere I go. In my heart.

Jayne Bielecki volunteered in the Peace Corps from 1995 to 1997 in Cape Verde “Tell It to My Face” by Sandra Knisely Philipi, South Africa 2008

“Ochen’ zhdu” – Russian; I can’t wait

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Improving Your Language Skills While Studying or Working Abroad

By Professor Sally Magnan, Dr. Diana Murphy, and Wendy S. Johnson, UW-Madison Language Institute Are you hoping to improve your language skills while traveling or studying abroad?

Contrary to what some students think, just “being there” isn’t enough! Here are some tips to help you make the most of your study abroad experience.

Take as many language courses as you can before you go. Research in language learning shows that the more coursework a student has in a language, the bigger gains that student makes during study abroad. But learning occurs at all levels of preparation!

“Panorama Stop in Giza” by Adam Sitte Giza, Egypt 2007 Set goals for what you want to accomplish when you’re abroad, and take steps to achieve them.

Answering some of the following questions will help you develop goals: Do you want to improve your speaking? Listing? Reading?

Writing? Is cultural understanding important to you? Is there a particular skill or knowledge area you want to develop? How about personal growth and self exploration?

Take personal responsibility for your language learning. Choose a study abroad program that will help you meet your goals, and fits with how comfortable you are interacting with others.

Ask questions such as: Will you be living with other Americans or native speakers of the language? Will you be taking classes only with other Americans (or other English speakers)?

What language will your classes be taught in?

To what extent does the program expect you to use the language in and outside of class?

Then, be prepared to supplement what the program offers with your own initiatives.

When you’re abroad, minimize the time you spend with other native speakers of English and increase your interactions with local residents. If you spend your semester abroad hanging out with other Americans (or other English-speaking foreigners), you won’t see much improvement in your language abilities. Practicing your French with other Americans while you’re in France doesn’t cut it!

Go solo or with a buddy or two.

Avoid exploring your host city or going out in the evenings with large groups of Americans or other English speakers. In a large group, not only will you mostly speak English, but locals will be less inclined to interact with you.

Follow an interest in your host country. Love hip-hop music? Rockclimbing? Passionate about politics? Find out where and how people in Kenya, Thailand, Argentina or wherever you may be, follow those same interests: it can be a great way to meet people, and to improve your language skills by talking about something you love. Be a joiner!

Travel in your host country.

When you have opportunities to travel, stay within the country whose language you want to learn. On spring break in Spain, for example, instead of a tour of Europe, opt to visit the small towns, lesser-known cities and different regions of Spain: discover variations in people, language and customs.

Be open and observant.

Understanding customs and cultural practices is part of “knowing” another language. By observing the social interactions of local residents, you will pick up on important but sometimes subtle habits and norms. It helps to frequent the same places (stores, restaurants, parks, etc.) as you learn to observe customs and practices.

“Ain davar k’zeh” – Hebrew; there is no such thing, drop it, it doesn’t exist

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Ecotourism & Ecotravel

By Amelia Foster

“A country is no better than its woods,” Auden wrote over fifty years ago. This sentiment has lost none of its potency as one response to global warming seems to be a trend of “Going Green.” Like any movement, it is critical that we learn to navigate between the appealing surface and deeper, more challenging commitment.

How many of us can really afford to pay the price of local organic produce? How many canvas tote bags that read “Go Local!” were actually made in China? An integral part of environmental consciousness is an increased awareness of the impact of our travel practices.

Ecotourism and Ecotravel may be defined several different ways. Some distinguish Ecotourism from regular tourism by placing an emphasis upon volunteering with environmental projects, while others choose destinations where flora, fauna, and cultural heritage are the primary attractions. Most importantly, sustainable travel is marked by an attention to travel’s impact upon the local/global environment and an effort to reduce the “carbon footprint.”

Admittedly, Ecotourism presents a complicated paradox between intent and actual impact. While ecotourism ideally intends to have a positive impact on the environment, the nature of tourism has a negative effect. Any population increase naturally creates a larger stress upon the environment.

Sustainable travel often places a large emphasis upon reducing carbon emissions.

Travelers who choose not to travel by plane or automobile pollute less than those who depend upon these carbon-heavy modes of transportation. Once you’ve arrived at your destination, proponents

of Ecotravel strongly recommend use of public transportation like subways or trains instead of planes. Also, travel light!

Excess baggage and packaging will result in greater waste. Another way to make your trip more environmentally friendly is to increase communication between you and your destination. Learn about the culture you’re entering, learn some of the language if appropriate, and be in dialogue with your tour operators or hotels about local conservation projects. While you’re on your holiday, you can always make a point of purchasing local instead of imported goods, walking or using public transportation instead of driving, and using water sparingly to reduce the stress on the natural environment.

Interested in Eco-travel or tourism?

Excellent information can be found on the web: ecotourism.org, home of the International Ecotourism Society can get you started with general background facts, current projects, and specific “ecotrips.”

Also, ecotravel.com’s Ecodirectory provides aspiring environmentalists with lists of volunteer opportunities, searchable by region, country, or type of volunteer work. Finally, responsibletravel.com is a comprehensive resource for all sustainable travel facts and services.

“Entrepreneur” by Matthew Straub Jayaramaparuam, India 2007

“Mai kho gya hun” – Urdu; I’m lost

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More Experiences: Excerpts From “Haiti: Privilege” by Matt Forrest Matt visited Port-au-Prince and Cap-Haitien, Haiti in January 2008 “I thought I understood what the situation [in Haiti] would be like—and I did, on an objective and somewhat academic platform. I had read about it, seen it on TV. I had thrown the words ‘poverty,’ ‘privilege,’ and ‘elite’ around in debates like ideas rather than real shit. What I found when I got there was that all of these things were very real, and yet I still tried to maintain an objective viewpoint. I thought about the comforts of home to try and make myself less a part of what surrounded me. I thought about those things to escape this place, which was so far away from anything I had experienced yet physically right in front of me, a place I could never really understand. Those things I held as comforts, I learned, were all privileges. They were one in the same. […] There was an end date to my trip there, and I went back to my privileges once again. I will never truly be able to understand the level of poverty in Haiti. I can see it, make all the effort to confront it, read all the articles I want, but I will never truly understand it because of my privileges. They define me more than I wish.”

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From “Pilgrimage to Lake Baikal” by Lowell Klessig Lowell visited Ulna Ude, Republic of Buryatia (Siberia), Russia in 2007 “To appease the Spirits we stopped the car at each watershed pass to scatter drops of vodka to the four winds with our left pinkie (the hand that doesn’t hold toilet paper).

We then drank a vodka toast and proceeded down toward the river crossing where we repeated the process—for fourteen days. When we were in a hurry, we simply opened the window and threw out a few coins. The locals said our flat tire was the result of our irreverent behavior: our offering was inadequate to get us safely across to the next Spirit territory.”

“Kibera” by Kristyn Fons Kibera (Nairobi) Kenya, 2007

From “The Best Decision I Have Ever Made: More Than Just a Cliche” by Alicia Ramirez Alicia studied in Vienna, Austria in 2007 After the fall 2006 semester ended, I had over a month until I would leave for Vienna to make plans and set goals. When all of the holiday excitement ceased, I sat down and wrote my goals on paper: 1) Travel to Germany, Turkey, France, Italy, Spain; 2) Improve German language skills; 3) Make new, non-American friends; 4) Spend all the money I had saved. […] Yesterday I finished my first semester in Madison after returning from Vienna. Every day I think of my friends, the delicious paella I ate in Spain, and the ease of traveling country to country. It is amazing how things in Madison that used to seem so amazing have quickly become mundane.

Coming back is an adjustment, but looking back on the semester is almost as satisfying as actually living it. Achieving the goals I set for myself—and having a great time while doing so—is what helped to make my semester in Vienna the best decision I have ever made.

“Aur chawal lijiye” – Hindi; have more rice

“Like all great travellers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen.�

Benjamin Disraeli