dutil.
denim guide
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
history + culture the origins of denim
manufacturing production + development
fits pairing body and jean
weaves left vs. right
selvedge self - edge
japenese denim what makes it better?
washing techniques of washing denim
glossary need to know terms
table of contents
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Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we must alter it every six months – Oscar Wilde
Denim pants were originally worn by laborers. They were valued for their durability, comfort, and cost. Because of their popularity amongst laborers, denim pants became a clothing staple for the working class. However, as time progressed, denim pants grew increasingly popular and are now a part of mainstream culture. Jeans is what people now commonly refer to denim pants, and they are worn by people all around the world with no limit to age, class, or race. What once was known as clothing that was made specifically for the working class has also managed to capture the attention of high culture fashionistas. Many designers of high end clothing companies are now making jeans a fashion necessity with heavy price tags. What was it that lead to the expansion of jeans and its uncontrollable popularity? Let us take a look at how jeans have evolved through time and history. It was during the gold the rush in the mid 1800’s that miners in California demanded for more durable work clothes; clothes that could take the abuse and stress that miners required. In 1853, Leob Strauss had the idea of making pants out of denim and started a wholesale business which supplied miners with works clothes. He later changed his name from Leob to Levi, and you can probably figure out the rest. The popularity of Levi’s jeans didn’t just appealed miners. Railroad workers, farmers, ranchers, and many other blue collared workers wore jeans.
Jeans continued to flourish amongst the working class until the mid 1900’s. Many famous faces promoted jeans by showing the youth how cool, comfortable, and casual they are. People like Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Elvis Presley wore jeans, and the youth wanted to emulate the rebellious nature of those people. Journalists James Sullivan describes the history of jeans: “they have been worn by soldiers and protesters, headbangers and heartthrobs, vagrants and presidents. They have been worn on campus and in prison, on horses and Harleys, to the opera and the mosh pit. They are versatile and stylish.” As the popularity of jeans went on, they became the most commonly worn bottoms, making cloth pants the alternative. How much would you pay for a pair of denim jeans? Ten dollars? One hundred dollars? How about one thousand dollars? When the Levi Strauss sold his denim jeans to the blue collar workers of California, he sold them for less than a dollar a piece (not taking into account for inflation). In modern America, you can easily find a pair of Levi’s 501 from an array of retailers with the average price being $30. Not so bad you would think, however, there are now many retailers that have built their company around selling jeans. Unlike Levi’s modestly priced jeans, these retailer prices their jeans anywhere from $50 to over $1000. The price difference is rather substantial. Brands like True Religion, Seven for Allmankind, Ernest Sewn, and others has emphasized the fit and wash of jeans over their original values. Chief designer of Earnest Sewn said, ““jeans, like anything else in a person’s wardrobe, have inevitably evolved to encompass any person’s desire, from the very basic to the completely elaborate.” Consumerism has turned the modest working class wear into a fashion conscious necessity. People no look at jeans at just denim pants. Jeans are now symbols of style and class, not practicality. The shift from work wear to leisure wear has allowed jeans to be widely distributed and worn. This examination of how jeans have evolved within popular culture shows the extraordinary change for our value in clothing.
1873
THE BLUE JEAN IS BORN Jacob Davis, a tailor from Reno, Nevada, teams with Levi Strauss to create rivetedfor-strength workwear made of true blue denim. On May 20, 1873 the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office grants patent #139,121 to Levi Strauss & Co. and Jacob Davis for their invention. This is how the blue jean, originally called “XX,” was born.
1934
THEY CALLED THEM “LADY LEVI’S®” The first jeans for women, Lady Levi’s® are made of pre-shrunk denim and constructed with many of the same features of the men’s 501® jeans. They owe their feminine allure to a fashionably high, nipped in waist.
1895
PERFORMANCE GEAR LEVI STRAUSS & CO. introduces its first bicycle pants. It only takes another 116 years for us to come out with Levi’s® Commuter, a multi-functional performance product designed for the modern cyclist
1948
1935
J A C K S O N P O L L O C K , WILLEM DE KOONING, MAX ERNST & JOSEPH BEUYS make jeans essential painter attire. Andy Warhol turns black denim into the unofficial uniform of the urban creative professional.
V O G U E MAGAZINE Denim jeans are featured in Vogue magazine for the first time ever. Securing their spot as a fashion essential.
1951
BING CROSBY is barred from checking into a hotel while wearing denim hunting gear. Embarrassed, Levi Strauss & Co. sends him a custom denim tuxedo.
1950’s
T O RESPOND TO an increase demand for denim jeans. Synthetic dyeing techniques and postdye treatments were introduced to control shrink and stretch.essential.
1963
LEVI STRAUSS first marketed preshrunk jeans, which did not shrink further after purchase, allowing the consumer to buy his or her correct size
1960’s
W I T H S T Y L E changing dramatically, hippies were a huge influence in the fashion industry. Bell bottom jeans with different patches, and fringes wee very common.Clothing items that were handmade were quite prized during this time.
1980’s
BROOK SHIELDS and the infamous Calvin Klien campaign is launched to promotoe Calvin Kliens foray into the denim industry. “You wanna know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.”
1990’s
AS A WHOLE T H E denim industry hits a lull with mainstream culture, as sportswear takes over the trends for youth. The 1990′s youth market wasn’t particularly interested in 501s and other traditional jeans styles, mainly because their parents: the “generation born in blue” were still wearing them. Yet denim could still be seen throughout the decade as a major fashion statement.
1990’s
W H I L E mainstream c u l t u r e embraces sportswear, the grunge subculture takes over north america, and heavily distressed jeans are seen on the streets everywhere.
2001
B R I T N E Y SPEARS & J u s t i n Timberlake make an infamous fashion statement with their matching alldenim outfits.
2006
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vancouver
2007
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toronto
body types
women hourglass Hourglass figures can find balance in a slim, but not too skinny pair of jeans. Either all light, or all dark – jeans that do not have too much fading or whiskering are more flattering on curvier figures. Choose a mid to high rise, with a contoured waistband to keep curvy bums covered. Adding a rolled cuff helps balance out hips. Cropped styles in the same silhouettes work well, but it is important to have a substantial shoe (not too delicate) to balance a wider hip. Girls with thick thighs, big bums and smaller waists should embrace jeans with 4-way stretch and a longer rise – the longer the zipper, the easier it will be to get it up over your bum and hips without sacrificing a nice fit at the waistband.
pear shaped Ladies who are pear shaped tend to carry weight in their lower stomach, hips and thighs but have slender shoulders and upper halves. Balance out your hips with a looser straight leg or a trouser cut jean that has a waistband that is higher in the back to give you good coverage. It is also a good idea to look for jeans that are all one wash, or have only very subtle fading and whiskering so that they do not draw attention to the widest part of your body.
apple shaped Ladies who are pear shaped tend to carry weight in their lower stomach, hips and thighs but have slender shoulders and upper halves. Balance out your hips with a looser straight leg or a trouser cut jean that has a waistband that is higher in the back to give you good coverage. It is also a good idea to look for jeans that are all one wash, or have only very subtle fading and whiskering so that they do not draw attention to the widest part of your body.
tall & leggy A straight leg, or flared jean in a low to mid-rise looks great on tall girls. Skinny jeans can make slender legs look toothpicky, so it is important to balance them out with a little volume at the bottom (and on top!). Fading on the thigh and knee area helps to break up a long leg, so don’t be afraid of washed jeans.
short If you are 5’4 or under, you should avoid voluminous cuts and large embellishments (they will make you look shorter). Instead, try a straight leg, tapered or skinny jean that is hemmed to the ankle or a little longer. Usually, you will be able to get away with wearing cropped jeans as full-length pants, so you may be able to save money on hem-jobs.
no bum Look for small back pockets that sit right in the middle of your butt cheeks. Pockets that are too large, or too low, too wide apart or too close together can hide or distort an already small derriere. Consider trying a pair that has some fading on the bum to create the illusion of volume.
men trapezoid Guys with larger chests and shoulders and relatively slim hips should consider slim straight or tapered jeans that follow the leg line. This body type is already balanced, so guys with a trapezoid shape have to worry less about what wash will look best. The main thing of importance is to get a pair that fits close to the body, but isn’t at all tight.
inverted triangle The inverted triangle shape belongs most often to athletic guys. This body type has broad shoulders and a very narrow waist and hips. Because of this, it is often flattering to balance a smaller lower half with a tapered (but not skinny) jean in a lighter wash. Lighter washes tend to make legs look bigger, which in turn balances a larger upper half.
rectangle Men who are shaped like a rectangle have similar shoulder width to waist/hip width. In order to create the illusion of a broader shoulder, it is important to balance out the lower half by choosing a pair of jeans that fits slim – if you are also slim, go ahead and try something skinny! Dark washes can also make legs look smaller, which can create the illusion of a slimmer hip/thigh and a wider shoulder.
triangle This guy is rounder in the waist and hips, and narrower in the shoulder and chest area. In order to balance this body type, you will want to try jeans with a straighter leg. Avoid tapered or skinny legs, which will only draw attention to the widest part of your body – your tummy. As for wash, try to stay in the mid-to-dark wash range, which is flattering for most occasions where jeans are appropriate.
oval This guy is rounder in the waist and hips, and narrower in the shoulder and chest area. In order to balance this body type, you will want to try jeans with a straighter leg. Avoid tapered or skinny legs, which will only draw attention to the widest part of your body – your tummy. As for wash, try to stay in the mid-to-dark wash range, which is flattering for most occasions where jeans are appropriate.
mens fits
skinny
tapered
slim straight
straight
relaxed
bootcut
General Guidelines: • Men with athletic thighs and bums should try pants with a tapered leg, a wider leg will only add volume to your lower half • Skinny guys should consider wearing fuller leg jeans to offset their thinness • Jeans that are too long are better than jeans that are too short, if you don’t have time to hem them, slimmer jeans can be rolled up to the correct length, this time-saving trick adds extra style (bonus points if your jeans are selvedge)
womens fits
skinny
cigarette
straigh
General Guidelines: • Women who are shorter waisted should choose lower rise jeans that do not overwhelm their frames • Women who are longer waisted should choose a mid-rise or high-rise jean to shorten the waist and lengthen the legs • Pocket placement and size is very important. Don’t forget to check the rear view! Larger bums should have larger pockets, and smaller bums should have smaller pockets, but a pocket that sits in the middle of the cheek is important for all booty sizes and shapes Your bum crack should not show when you sit down, if it does, try a higher rise or a more contoured waistband
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OPEN - END SPUN YARNS opening & cleaning carding open end spinning
YARN MANUFACTURING RING SPUN YARNS opening & cleaning carding drawing roving ring spining winding
denim production FABRIC MANUFACTURING
warping dyeing beaming slashing weaving finishing testing
weave
The composition of yarns woven together to produce a fabric.
Twill a term used to define both the diagonal design of a weave, as well as the cloth created from that weave process.
Weft
Basket Weave
The weft runs horizontally and is carried over and under the warp. This yarn has less twists and less strain than a warp yarn.
a fabric weave where more than one filling threads pass over and under the same number of threads on alternate rows of the warp.
Warp
3Ă—1 Weave
The warp is a construction of yarn in which the vertical yarns are carried over and under the weft. This yarn is comprised of more twist than weft yarn and therefore are stressed more during the weaving process than weft yarns.
Denims that have heavier weights (over 10.5 oz per square yard) use 3Ă—1 weaves, while lighter weight denim (under 10.5 Oz per square yard) uses a 2Ă—1 weave.
Right-Hand Twill
Left-Hand Twill / S Twill
a style of weaving where the lines of grain run from the top right-hand corner of the fabric towards the bottom left-hand corner. This is the most commonly used twill in denim production.
a style of weaving where the grain lines run from the top left-hand corner to the bottom right-hand corner. Denim woven in the LHT style typically have a softer feeling (especially after washing).
what is
selvedge?
Selvage (US English) or selvedge (British English) is the term for the self-finished edges of fabric. The selvages keep the fabric from unraveling or fraying.The selvages are a result of how the fabric is created. In woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the warp (the longitudinal threads that run the entire length of the fabric), and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row. In knitted fabrics, selvages are the unfinished yet structurally sound edges that were neither cast on nor bound off
Before the 1950s, most fabrics — including denim — were made on shuttle looms. Shuttle looms produce tightly woven strips (typically one yard wide) of heavy fabric. The edges on these strips of fabric come finished with tightly woven bands running down each side that prevent fraying, raveling, or curling. Because the edges come out of the loom finished, denim produced on shuttle looms are referred to as having a “self-edge,” hence the name “selvedge” denim. During the 1950s, the demand for denim jeans increased dramatically. To reduce costs, denim companies began using denim created on projectile looms. Projectile looms can create wider swaths of fabric and much more fabric overall at a much cheaper price than shuttle looms. However, the edge of the denim that comes out of a projectile loom isn’t finished, leaving the denim susceptible to fraying and unraveling
japanese
? First of all, Japanese denim is often made on old shuttle looms – not American Draper looms imported to Japan (as is sometimes thought in popular myth), but vintage Toyoda looms. When the Toyoda Model G was introduced in the 1920s it was a major advance for fabric weaving machinery, creating such loyalty that looms descended from the 1924 models are still used today by Japanese mills. Vintage Toyoda looms make fabric in very limited quantities – the typical roll of denim will be a little under three feet wide and the weaving processes is much slower than on modern machines.
When comparing a nice sample of Japanese denim to a typical off-theshelf pair of jeans, you’ll immediately notice the difference in texture – most jeans have a smooth surface, but Japanese denim is often surprisingly hairy or rough. This can often be quite intimidating at first for someone used to wearing soft, pre-faded jeans. Pure Blue Japan is renowned for its slubby fabric, faded Samurai denim has a complex, grainy texture, and The Flat Head is known for its heavy vertical fading. These qualities are accomplished by modifying the looms to chatter as they weave, creating a unique texture. Such brands often keep their exact weaving methods a carefully-guarded secret, such as Oni.
denim
The shuttle loom produces selvedge denim as the weft (horizontal thread) is weaved back and forth continuously in a loop, the full length of the machine. When the weft reaches the edge of the machine, it loops back in and starts the process all over again, creating a closed selvedge edge. In contrast, modern projectile loom produces open edges that need to be stitched together, as the weft is weaved only one way (not in a loop).
washing
raw denim
cleaning & washing As a general rule, people tend to go a minimum of 6-9 months before washing their denim. Some denim heads will push 1 - 2 years, while others will simply never wash their jeans. It is not advised to go much longer than 1 year before washing your jeans. As you wear the denim dirt and grim gets caught between the strands of the fabric, causing wear. If the jeans go unwashed for too long the denim begins to weaken and the notorious crotch blowout is more likely to occur. The sooner you wash your raw denim, the less chance you have for high contrast fades. Due to the manufacturing process, the indigo dye on raw denim is left sitting on top of the fabric, and as it is worn the dye rubs off the denim, producing fades. The longer you wear your denim, the more dye will rub off, resulting in more dramatic fading. It has been studied that heavily worn raw denim houses the same bacteria level of a pair of jeans worn for months.
MINOR WASH AND CARE Hemming – Raw denim will generally shrink up to 1/2” after washing. It is avised not to hem until after the inital wash.
Spills/Stains – If a spill occurs, use a wet cloth to rub or dab at the stain. Try to avoid the use of soap or cleaning agents as it will remove some of the indigo dye. Smell – Should the denim begin to smell, the best way to reduce this is by air drying. Either hang outside for a few hours/days, or allow your jeans to hang in the bathroom when having a hot shower. The steam will help to remove some of the odor.
Separate - Since the indigo dye has never touched water, bleeding is inevitable, it is avised to wash denim seperately or with other jeans.
MAJOR WASH AND CARE • Fill a bathtub without about 4” of lukewarm water • Add a small amount of washing detergant. Woolite Black is most comonly used for raw denim as it was designed specfically for dark coloured laundry. • Turn your denim inside out, and lay inside the tub. • Add some weighted items on top of the denim to keep the jeans submerged. • Let soak for 45 minutes • Rinse with cool water to remove soap • Remove from water and hang dry, ideally outdoors & in the sun
25
Water Temperature – Cold water is best, the warmer the water the more the denim will shrink.
Drying – Always hang dry flat. Do not place on a heat radiator, use a dryer, or crumple when drying, as it will damage the fabric and ruin the fit, fade, contrast, and overall quality
washed denim to wash: The process of washing a pre-washed or faded jean is relatively simpler than that of raw denim. While it is not necessary to go 6 months without washing, wear jeans as many times between washings as you possible will keep the jeans looking their best, and will prolong their life.
• turn jeans inside out • wash in machine in cold water on gentle cycle with a mild detergent and remove promptly at end of cycle. • Hang jeans, smooth out any wrinkling and allow to air-dry.
or • submerge jeans in cold water with a mild detergent, agitate to loosen dirt, and rinse with cold water. • Roll jeans in dark towel to remove excess moisture. • Hang jeans, smooth out any wrinkles and allow the jeans to air-dry.
maintaining darkness
vinegar to maintain the dark colour in a jean, and to prevent from bleeding, adding 1 cup of vinegar to your cold water wash. the vinegar helps to seal the dye within the fabric. • Turn the jeans inside out and submerge in cold water with a mild detergent and 1 cup of white vinegar. • Leave denim to soak for 30 minutes. • Rinse denim with fresh cold water, lay on top of dark coloured towel and roll, squeezing as much water out as possible. • Unroll jeans from towel and hang on clip-style clothes hanger. Jeans may drip as water runs down the fibers, so place a towel underneath the area where the denim will hang-dry. • Smooth denim so that as many wrinkles as possible are removed; this will prevent excess dye from running into the wrinkles and causing a “marbled” look.
salt similar to vinegar, salt can be used to keep denim darker for longer. The two kitchen staples can also be used in conjunction with one another . • Create a salt mixture in a large tub, roughly 1 gallon of water to 2 tbsp of salt. • Turn the jeans inside out and submerge in salt mixture • Leave denim to soak for 1 hour. • Turn denim inside out and follow through with traditional washing methods.
sanforized
[san-fuh-rahyzd]
Sanforization is the process of pre-shrinking a fabric so to a limit the residual or further shrinkage of the fabric to less than 1%. This sanforization process involves the stretching of the fabric before it is washed, which helps to prevent shrinkage. Fabric that doesn’t undergo sanforization and is considered raw is likely to shrink up to 10% on the initial wash and continue to shrink up until the third wash. In the world of denim, un-sanforized denim is referred to as raw denim. [rawr denim definition]
shrink to fit unsanforized denim Shrink to fit denim is a classic denim that is meant to be molded and shaped towards your body
Buy jeans at least one size larger than your actual waist size (measured size). Soak your jeans in warm water (in the bathtub) for 30-45 minutes, roll in a towel to expel moisture and hang to dry. Jeans will shrink about one size in the waist and 1-3 inches in the inseam (depending on which shrink-to-fit denim you buy or how hot the water you are using is). Wear your jeans for at least 6 months before washing/ soaking again. Shrink-to-fit denim has the potential to shrink a bit during the first few washes, but should stop shrinking after that. This means, if your jeans don’t shrink enough the first time you soak them, you can try again to get the right fit. Extremists may want to purchase their shrink-to-fits on the snug side and allow them to stretch out prior to shrinking their jeans. In this case, it may be beneficial to shrink the denim while wearing them (hop in the bathtub with them on and hang out for about 30 minutes). If they are on your body when you shrink them you will ensure they don’t shrink past your size. After shrinking your jeans, wear them for at least 6 months before washing again. If your jeans need to be shrunk again, wash them in warm water with a mild detergent and hang to dry. If they are the correct size for you but need a wash, use cold water and hang to dry.
glossary
A
Abrasion - the process of making garments look and feel worn and aged, in which the garment’s fabric surface is scraped or rubbed (usually using pumice stones; especially by industrial laundries), thereby causing abrasion. Acid Wash -
a finishing process that gives jeans sharp contrasts. It is done by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and bringing into contact with unwashed denim
Aged - a wet-processing method that causes a garment to have a worn look and a softer feel through continued abrasion. Anti-Fit - usually oversized pants that look too big or long for wearer; it can also refer to a pant with a dropped crotch fit. Anti-Twist -
Prior to raw denim undergoing sanforization in the finishing process, it is the natural tendency for denim to twist in the direction of the diagonal twill; antitwist refers to sewing the jeans in a way as to compensate for the twist (which usually occurs after washing).
Atari -
The Japanese buzzword for the selective fading of the ridges of creases in raw denim.
Authentic
-
Describes both original denim quality (the level of quality that denim was held to in original production) and stone and enzyme washing techniques.
B
Back Cinch -
Also known as a martingale, the back cinch with a buckle was used to tighten the waist on jeans before widespread use of belts (and therefore belt loops).
Bartack -
a sewing procedure that reinforces stress points on jeans usually around zippers, front flies, pocket openings, and crotch joins of inseams.
Basket Weave -
a fabric weave where more than one filling threads pass over and under the same number of threads on alternate rows of the warp.
Belt Loops - a series of loops around the waist band of a pair of pants that hold a belt and help to hold the pants up on the person wearing them.
Button -
small, usually round fasteners sewn onto garments and used to attach two pieces of fabric together. There are three main styles of buttons: shank, sew-through, and stud.
Bleach -
a chemical used to fade
denim.
Bleaching
-
the process of applying bleach to yarn or fabric to adjust the colour and to remove natural or artificial impurities from fabric. It is also used to fade denim.
Broken Twill - when the diagonal weave of the twill is intentionally reversed at every two warp ends to form a random ‘zig-zag’ design. As a result, the natural torque characteristic of regular twill weaves is reduced, eliminating the leg twist effect (anti-twist).
C
- used in embroidery and sewing garments, chain stitching is a looped stitch closely resembling the links of a chain.
Chambray - produced from cotton or synthetic fibres, and is a plain woven fabric, often in checkered or striped patterns. Usually made from blue and white yarns, the fabric originated in the town of Cambrai in northern France. the fabric used for a cotton trouser is considered to be ‘chino’ if the fabric is a tightly woven 2 ply right hand 3×1 combed cotton twill.
Coin Pocket -
the fifth pocket, it sits inside the right front pocket and justifies the term five-pocket jeans.
Describes the shading or tone of denim. Indigo denim can have a black, brown, grey, green, red, or yellow caste to it
Enzyme
Chain-stitching
Chino -
Caste -
Cellulose
outside of the yard, when the denim is washed in a cellulose enzyme bath the indigo is removed along with the fibre. When the desired colour has been achieved, either changing the alkalinity of the bath or heating the water stops the enzymes from reacting. A rinsing and softening cycle follows. This process is more environmentally friendly than stone washing because strip-mined pumice stones are not used. Enzyme washes are considered “authentic” washes.
Wash
-
Enzymes which are like yeast, are used to physically eat away the cellulose in cotton. Since the colour in denim fabric is actually on the
Cone Mills
- started producing denim in 1895 in Greensboro, North Carolina. Cone Mills is still one of the world’s biggest denim manufacturers in North America.
Core Spun Yarn - A yarn in which a base yarn is completely wrapped by a second yarn
Cotton - one of the world’s most valuable crops. Cotton plans produce white bolls that can be manufactured into a highly versatile material. The longer the fibres in the bolls, the more valuable the fabric.
Dips -
Cotton
Distressing -
Gin-
a machine that removes cotton fibres from cotton seeds. This machine is responsible for the enormous growth seen in cotton production since its invention in 1796.
Crock-he term used when dye rubs off of a fabric and onto skin or another fabric. Indigo dye is notorious for crocking.
Crosshatch -
Denim woven using uneven, or slub, yarn for both the warp and weft threads is considered Crosshatch Denim. This type of weave is rare, and causes the denim to display irregular wear patterns that highlight the grain in the denim.
D Desizing -
the act of degrading or solubilizing the sizing solution that is added to fabric during the sizing process. Enzymatic desizing is the most popular method and uses amylase enzymes degrade the sizing solution.
the process of dipping fabric or yarn into dye. The number of times a fabric or yarn is dipped will determine how dark the end result is. The more dips a fabric endures, the darker it will become. giving jeans the vintage worn look through the manufacturing process.
Double Needle -
a stitching method often used for denim in which two threads are stitched parallel to each other to provide strength to a seam.
Dry Denim- Dry denim is also known as ‘raw’. This is denim that has been processed very little and is in an unwashed state. Dual Ring-Spun - Dual ring-spun fabric weave that is also known as “ring x ring”. Dual ring-spun denim refers to a weave where both the weft and warp threads are made of ringspun yarn resulting in a softer handfeel than the typical open-end and regular ring-spun denim. Duck -
a type of fabric created from medium to coarse yarns, and is also known as canvas, or plain weave cotton.
Dungaree -
the original term to describe the pants worn by 17th century sailors near the Indian port of Dungri.
Dyeing -
a general term used to describe the many intricate processes used in adding colour to fabrics.
E Ecru -
The natural colour of cotton without dye.
Enzymes - a non-toxic and are readily broken-down. In textile processing, enzymes are used in the finishing of fabrics and garments Enzyme Washing -
a method of washing jeans to give a wornin appearance. This method uses cellulase enzymes.garments .
F
Fair to Middling - an average grade of cotton that is usually used in denim production. Fibre -
hair-like filaments that make up fabrics.
Filling (Weft) -
the yarns that run lengthwise, horizontally selvedge-toselvedge and are carried over and under the warp.
Fit -
the way a pair of jeans are cut and designed to hang on the body.
Five Pocket Jeans - Most jeans have five pockets – this means two front pockets, two back pockets, and one coin pocket inside the right front pocket.
G
Garment Dye - As opposed to yarn dye which is used prior to weaving yarn for fabrics; garment dyeing is a process that is performed on finished garments. You can tell that this type of dying process has been used when the labels and pocket linings are the same colour as the fabric of the denim. Ginning -
he process of removing seeds from cotton.
Greencast - a dying which the garment is green sulfur, and then order to give the jean a hue after regular wear..
process in dyed with indigo in blue-green
H Hand (Handle) -
refers to how a fabric feels. Words such as crisp, soft, stiff, or rough are often used in reference to denim hand.
Hemming -
the process of adjusting fabric by folding a cut edge up twice and then sewing the folds down. This encloses the cut edge and ensures the cut edge will not fray.
Herringbone -
a type of weave in which twill warp stripes are made by running different twills in different directions
Hige -
fade lines that occur around the crotch and thigh area due to the motion of walking and sitting. These are usually where raw denim fades first.
Honeycombs the fade lines that occur behind the knees during the wear-in process.
I
Indigo-
a type of dye used to colour denim to give it’s blue colour. Indigo dye was traditionally taken from plants, but most dye used now is produced synthetically. Each pair of denim jeans uses 3 to 12 grams of indigo, so thousands of tons of indigo dye is produced annually for the purpose of dying denim.
Indigo-
the measurement taken from the crotch seam to the edge of the hem on the inside seam of the leg of a pair of pants. If the original inseam is too long for the wearer, the pant legs can be hemmed to the correct length.
Iro-Ochi-
a type of fading process where jeans are faded in exposed areas, but not across the entire denim in order to give a mixed fade look.
J
Japanese Denim - Japanese denim from small producers is known for its high-quality, attention to detail and excellent construction.
K L
Khaki - refers to a beige to yellow colour that usually is used in men’s army style trousers that are made from cotton twill.
Laundry -
a company that takes raw denim and finishes it through washing processes using stone or enzymes, sanding, dying, or bleaching.
Left-Hand Twill (LHT) -
a company that takes raw denim and finishes it through washing processes using stone or enzymes, sanding, dying, or bleaching.
Leg Opening -
the measurement taken flat across the bottom of the hemmed opening of a leg of a pair of pants. This measurement is then doubled to provide the circumference of the opening.
Leg Twist -
a denim weave runs diagonally (either from left to right, or right to left depending on the weave), pant legs tend to twist in the direction of the weave after washing. This effect is often most noticeable when the outer leg seam twists around the leg and will not remain stationed along the side of the leg. Broken twill denim usually resists leg twist.
Loop Dyed -
the process of dragging denim yarns through indigo dye in order to change their colour.
Lycra -
the trademarked name for
spandex.
Lyocell - an eco-friendly, biodegradable fabric made from dissolved wood pulp. Lyocell is a type of rayon and has a light, drape-y hand-feel.
M Man Made Fibre -
this pertains to a fibre that is made artificially. Nylon is a man made fibre.
Mercerization -
an industrial process used on yarns and fabrics to increase lustre and dye affinity. In denim, mercerization is used to prevent dyes from fully penetrating the yarns. The un-dyed core of each yarn is what is responsible for the contrast fades that appear at the hip and behind the knee of a pair of jeans after a period of regular wear (breaking them in)
Microsanding - a fabric treatment process in which a fabric is pulled over a series of cylindrical drums that are wrapped in either abrasive paper or a coating of chemical abrasion agent. This process creates a raised surface finishing and some colour reduction on the denim.
N
Natural Dyes - opposed to pigment dyes have no affinity for untreated textile fibres (treating fibres with aluminum, iron or tin helps fabrics receive natural dye) and thus have little resistance to fading through exposure to sunlight or abrasion.
Natural Fibre
- material with a hair-like composition that is sourced either from a vegetable, animal, or mineral source and can be spun into yarn and subsequently woven into cloth.
Nylon
- a synthetic (man made) fibre that is naturally water repellent, easy to dye, and very strong.
O
Open End Denim
- fibres that are pressed into shape, rather than being ring-spun. This type of denim was developed in the 1970s as a cheaper way to produce denim and has gained popularity among manufacturers since then.
Optical Brighteners
- chemical agents that are used to brighten fabrics so they reflect more light.
Organic Cotton
- cotton that is grown in ‘living soil’, or soil that has been free from toxic chemicals for a minimum of 3 years.
Overall -
traaditionally a workwear garment, overalls consist of shorts or pants that are connected to a bib with over-the-shoulder suspenders.
Overdye
- fabrics are overdyed in order to give them a different tone than that of the original fabric. Indigo and black denims are often overdyed.
Oxidation - in dying denim, yarns are dipped into indigo dye, then removed and allowed to oxidize (or, come into contact with oxygen). This turns the greenish/yellow indigo dye to the deep blue colour you see in indigo denim.
Polyester (PES) - a type of manmade fibre that is known for it’s strength, dye affinity and lustrous quality. Polyester is derived from coal, air, water and oil.
Q P R Pigment Dyes
- available in almost any colour, these dyes do not have any affinity for fibres and are held to fabrics with resin. Because of this, the internal core of each yarn remains undyed, making these fabrics able to fade rapidly through wash and wear.
Quality Control
- pertains to certain procedures followed by a company to ensure that their product meets some standard of goodness.
Pima Cotton
- cotton with long fibres (1 3/8” – 1 5/8”); longer fibre cottons tend to be luxurious, and pima cotton is considered second best only to Sea Island and Egyptian cotton
Plain Weave - this type of weave is the most common. The filling yarn (or weft) passes over and under each warp yarn in alternating rows. Ply
- pertains to a measure of the number of strands twisted together to create a yarn.
Poly-core Denim
- this type of denim is made by combining polyester and cotton to create both a strong, as well as an authentic feeling denim.
Raw Denim-
also known as dry or unwashed denim. This denim has not undergone any washing or distressing. The denim is stiff, slightly sheeny and usually comes in a deep blue colour that creases and fades to the wearers’ body over time.
Red Cast - pertains to denim that exhibits a reddish hue, making the unworn denim look purple.
Right Hand Twill (RHT)
- a style of weaving where the lines of grain run from the top right-hand corner of the fabric towards the bottom left-hand corner. This is the most commonly used twill in denim production.
Ring Ring Denim
- created by spinning fibres into yarn (as opposed to pressing them into yarn). This creates a more uneven look and feel, and is considered a more valuable product than open end denim. Ringring denim is different from ringspun denim in that it uses ring-spun yarns in both the warp and the weft of the denim.
Ring Spun Denim
- a more uneven look and feel than open end denim (which is pressed into yarns rather than spun), but it is considered softer and more durable. Ring-spun denim uses spun yarns for only the warp (as opposed to ring-ring denim which uses ring-spun yarns for both the weft and the warp).
River Washing
- a process of washing denim to soften it and age it. River washing involves the use of pumice stones and cellulose enzymes in order to wash the denim.
Rope Dyeing - consists of twisting yarns into a rope and then dipping the rope into indigo dye. The denim yarns are then allowed to oxidize in order to produce a deep indigo colour. More saturated hues are often dipped many times to reach the desired effect.
S
Sanding -
a process that is used in order to soften denim, as well as to give it a worn-in look. This can either be done by hand with sandpaper, or with a sandblaster.
Sandblast
- a laundering process in which denim is blasted with sand guns in order to achieve a worn-in look.
Sanforization
- a pre-shrink process that is applied to fabrics prior to manufacturing. This process shrinks (usually with the use of steam), then stretches, and then shrinks a fabric in order to avoid it shrinking when in the hands of the consumer.
Scouring - pertains to an industrial process which removes starch or dirt from fabric.
Sea Island Cotton
- the finest grade of cotton available (along with Egyptian cotton). The cotton fibres are extremely soft and silky.
Selvedge (Selvage)
- (initially known as ‘self-edge’ denim) is denim that is finished on a tightly woven band that runs along both edges of denim fabric. Selvedge prevents the edge of denim from unraveling and also gives a clean, finished appearance to the outer leg seam of a pair of jeans.
Shade Batching
- the process of dividing fabrics into different batches by colour. Each dye batch has slight variations in colour, so shade batching allows for more consistent production runs.
Shed - the opening that is formed by raising and lowering warp yarns on a loom during the weaving process. The shed is the opening that the weft yarns are passed through in order to complete the weaving interlace.
Shuttle
- in vintage shuttle looms, the shuttle is the device that carries the weft yarn across the loom. Shuttle looms produce finished edges (selvedge) whereas mass-producing looms cannot.
Silhouette
- describes a garment’s shape. This is also know as the ‘fit’
Silicone
- in the clothing industry, liquid silicone is created from sand and silica and is used for dry cleaning. It is environmentally friendly and gentle on garments.
Singeing
- refers to one of the last stages in production, where the fabric is singed with a controlled flame in order to eliminate fuzziness and create a cleaner look.
Sizing
- a protective coating that is applied to yarns before weaving in order to strengthen them and create a more uniform weave. This coating is removed later in a process called ‘desizing’.
Slasher Dyed
- also known as sheet dying – this pertains to a process in which yarns are dyed and sized at the same time.
Slub
- refers to any inconsistencies that are prevalent in denim produced on vintage shuttle looms. Slubs give a rough, non-uniform texture to denim.
Slub Yarn
- intentionally spun to give an irregular shape in terms of length and diameter.
Spandex (PU) - a broad term for man-made fibres that are known for their ability to stretch well. Staple
- a short length of fibre that is used to determine the quality based on their average length and fineness – longer staple cotton is considered more valuable.
Starching
- the process wherein starch is applied to a fabric in order to stiffen it
Stone-washing
- the process in which pumice stones are added to the wash cycle in order to soften and lighten denim.
S-Twist Yarn
- a yarn that twists
to the left
Sulphur
- used to dye fabrics black, green or red, and has limited colourfastness.
Sulphur Bottom
- sulphur is applied to a fabric prior to dying with another dye. In denim, indigo jeans with a sulphur bottom may have a grey or yellow cast to the fabric.
Synthetic Dyes
- man-made dyes.
Synthetic Fibres
- fabrics like polyester, spandex and nylon are considered synthetic (man-made) fibres.
T U
Tencel - he brand name for lyocell, which is a fibre that is created using wood pulp cellulose. The fibre is considered a “green” fibre (even though it is technically man-made).
Uneven Yarn - a yarn that has different thicknesses along the length of the yarn. The uneven yarn is also referred to as “slub” and can change the texture of the garment that is woven with this yarn.
Textile Finishing -
Unwashed
refers to any physical or chemical process applied to a garment in order to achieve a certain look, feel, or durability within the material.
Textile Finishing -
refers to any physical or chemical process applied to a garment in order to achieve a certain look, feel, or durability within the material.
Top Stitch
- a row of continuous stitches on the top or right side of a garment or other article as a decorative feature.
Twill - a term used to define both the diagonal design of a weave, as well as the cloth created from that weave process.
- refers to raw denim that have never been washed or treated
V Vintage
- a type of jeans that are marked by their age. They can be previously worn, or unworn with only age as the determining factor.
W Warp
- a construction of yarn in which the vertical yarns are carried over and under the weft. This yarn is comprised of more twist than weft yarn and therefore are stressed more during the weaving process than weft yarns.
Width - the width of a bolt of denim is related to how it was woven. Typically, selvedge (shuttle loomed) denim is woven to 75 centimetres wide, whereas regular denim can be much longer due to the use of automated machines.
Weave
- the composition of yarns woven together to produce a fabric. A weave includes both warp and weft yarns and the design created is dependent on the number of warps and wefts used in the weave.
Weft
- a construction of yarn in which the yarn runs horizontally and is carried over and under the warp. This yarn has less twists and less strain than a warp yarn
Weight
- in denim, the weight refers to how many ounces per yard of fabric.
Whiskering (Hige) - refers to the fade lines that occur in the creases on the front hip of a pair of jeans after a period of regular wear. Whiskering can also be created inauthentically (physically or chemically) in the finishing process of a pair of jeans.
X
X-Dyed Fabric - cross dyed fabrics are fabrics that contain more than one type of fibre, and thus must use dye that adheres to all fabric components.
Y Z Yarn
- a general term for a strand of fibres that are spun to create a continuous strand.
Yarn Dyed
- fabrics in which the yarns have been dyed prior to weaving the fabric.
Yoke
- the v-shaped section at the back of the jean. It gives the jeans a curved seat to accommodate the buttocks, as well as allow freedom of movement.
Z-twist
- a yarn that twists to the right, as well as allow freedom of movement.
Zip
- mechanism used to close jeans and tighten them around the waist
Zipper
- a mechanism with plastic or metal teeth that interlock in order to join two edges of fabric.