Winterlife 2012-2013 winter guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico by The New Mexican

Winterlife Guide to ski areas | the Fiber arts trail | holiday markets

2012-13 winter Guide to Santa Fe & northern new Mexico

The SanTa Fe new Mexican www.santafenewmexican.com

A B BETTER T R WAY FOR WINTER

PLAY. E V E R Y T H I N G

I S

B E T T E R

A T

B T R .

Close to great skiing and home to a Four Diamond hotel along with some of Santa Fe’s best dining and nightlife, Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino is the perfect base camp for your winter getaway.

B U F F A L O T H U N D E R R E S O R T. c o m

877.THUNDER B E YO N D TH E ROUTI N E

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ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET SEASON PRESENTING SPONSOR

2012 | 2013 WINTER SEASON

ASFB’s THE NUTCRACKER DECEMBER 1 - 2 ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET MARCH 29 - 30 LES BALLETS TROCKADERO DE MONTE CARLO APRIL 15

All performances at The Lensic, Santa Fe’s Performing Arts Center

Groups of 10 or more receive discounts of up to 40%! Call 505-983-5591 for more information.

Tickets: 505-988-1234

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Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers Tax, and made possible in part by New Mexico Arts, a Division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts. PHOTO: SHAREN BRADFORD

2012-2013 WINTERLIFE

s a e t i h W

r e t n Wi ow n S

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WINTERLIFE 2012-2013

ns tio va nt ser me Re tain tio ter Pa st En a kf ea h Br nc Lu er nn Di

ns tio va nt ser me Re tain tio ter Pa st En a kf ea h Br nc Lu er nn

Dining guiDe AmericAn

iTALiAn

San Francisco St. Bar & Grill

Osteria de Assisi

505.982.2044 50 E. San Francisco St. American Bistro style concept with burgers, pastas, creative salads, soups and daily specials served with premium draft beers, wines by the glass and a variety of tequilas and margaritas. www.sanfranbargrill.com

Cowgirl BBQ

505.982.2565 319 S. Guadalupe Street American & Barbecue. www.cowgirlsantafe.com

Hidden Chicken

505.474.4424 730 St. Michael’s Drive “Home cooking without having to cook!” www.hiddenchickencafe.com

Tune-Up Café

505.983.7060 1115 Hickox Street Locals favorite. Home cooking: New Mexican, El Salvadoran, American Classic. As seen on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” Casual Dining. Welcoming. Beer & Wine Bar now open!

AsiAn Chow’s Asian Bistro

505.471.7120 720 St. Michael’s Dr. Award-winning Asian Bistro - fresh gourmet Chinese cuisine made to order.

iTALiAn Mangiamo Pronto!

505.989.1904 228 Old Santa Fe Tr. Fast Italian food featuring Panini, pizza, soups, salads, pastries, desserts, espresso, beer & wine in a warm and chic bistro.

(cOnTinueD...)

505.986.5858 51 S. Federal Place Authentic regional Italian cuisine served in an elegant and charming historical setting.

new mexicAn & AmericAn FAVOriTes Santa Fe Bar & Grill

505.982.3033 187 Paseo De Peralta Contemporary interpretation of southwest cuisine including all chiles, regional entrees, steaks, seafood, salads & Santa Fe’s premier chicken tortilla soup served with a variety of tequilas, margaritas and other favorites. www.santafebargrill.com

The Pantry Restaurant

505.986.0022 1820 Cerrillos Rd. From scratch cooking. Great values in New Mexican, American cuisine. Relaxed, casual environment. 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. www.thepantrysantafe.com

Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen

505.983.7929 555 West Cordova 180 hand shaken Margaritas. Lunch & dinner daily. Monday-Friday, Noon-10 p.m., Weekends noon-10 p.m. Fun & affordable!

Tiny’s Restaurant & Lounge

505.983.1100 1005 St. Francis Dr. #117

Tiny’s specializes in New Mexican food and also offers hand cut USDA choice steaks, seafood, burgers, and salads. Hassle free parking.

2012-2013 WINTERLIFE

Retreat, Relax, Rejuvenate

This winter, soak your bones in the steamy, soothing, historic hot springs at Ojo Caliente.

20% Off Skier’s Special

Bring your lift ticket or season pass from any Nm Ski resort and receive 20% off Springs’ entry or lodging. Valid 7 days a week, excluding holidays. Dec. 1, 2012 - April 30, 2013. One discount per lift ticket/pass. Not to be combined with any other offer. Lodging includes Springs’ access.

Less than an hour North of Santa Fe. BeST Day Trip FrOm SaNTa Fe - Santa Fe Reporter Reader’s Choice

Call 505.583.2233 or visit ojospa.com for specials. ojocaliente

Sulfur-free Mineral Springs • New Kiva Pool for Lodgers Private Outdoor Pools w/firepalces • Full-service Spa • Enchanting Suites • Restaurant & Wine Bar

WINTERLIFE 2012-2013

winterlife Published November 3, 2012

COVER PHOTO Luis sÁnchez saturno brendan crumm snowboards at ski santa fe earLier this year COVER DESIGN deborah ViLLa

2 01 2-1 3 W I N TE R G U I D E to Santa fe & northern neW Mexico

OWNER robin martin PUBLISHER Ginny sohn EDITOR rob dean EDITORIAL creatiVe director deborah ViLLa 986-3027, dViLLa@sfnewmeXican.com maGazine editor Pat west-barker maGazine desiGners deborah ViLLa neebin southaLL coPy editor sandy neLson ADVERTISING adVertisinG director tamara hand 505-986-3007 marketinG director monica tayLor 505-995-3888 ART DEPARTMENT manaGer scott fowLer, daLe deforest, eLsPeth hiLbert adVertisinG Layout rick artiaGa ADVERTISING SALES mike fLores, 505-995-3840 cristina iVerson, 505-995-3830 stePhanie Green, 505-995-3825

What’s inside

art truJiLLo, 505-995-3852

Edifice mysterious: Historical questions about the cathedral basilica

NATIONALS ACCOUNT MANAGER

Stop. Look. Learn. Shop! Spanish and Indian markets move indoors

Deck the Plaza: Holiday lights brighten historic city center

technoLoGy director michaeL camPbeLL

A winter’s tale: Find adventure, friendship on the Fiber Arts Trail

PRODUCTION

A landscape of inspiration from New Mexico’s favorite writers

Thanksgiving’s Southwestern roots — with recipes

Entertainers keep the city’s pulse pumping well after dark

Santa Fe Symphony’s Messiah apt and inspired

distribution coordinator reGGie Perez

Survive the drive: Preparation is key to staying safe on wintry roads

WEB

Santa Fe Skating Club performs to film favorites at community rink

Winter wardrobe: A guide to Northern New Mexico ski areas

Smooth operators: Chavez staff keeps cool maintaining ice rink

rob newLin, 505-995-3841 SYSTEMS

oPerations director aL waLdron assistant Production director tim cramer PrePress manaGer dan Gomez Press manaGer Larry Quintana PackaGinG manaGer brian schuLtz DISTRIBUTION circuLation manaGer michaeL reichard

diGitaL deVeLoPment nataLie GuiLLÉn www.santafenewmeXican.com address office: 202 e. marcy st. hours: 8 a.m.-5 P.m. monday-friday adVertisinG information: 505-995-3820 deLiVery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 for coPies of this maGazine, caLL 505-428-7622 or emaiL rPerez@sfnewmeXican.com.

2012-13 Winterlife

EdificE mystErious

the cathedral basilica is central to santa fe â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but its history still puzzles By Kay LocKridge

2012-13 Winterlife

For a structure that’s been called the heart of the city since its construction in the late 1800s, Santa Fe’s Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi can confound fact checkers curious about its history. Let’s start with one of the most enduring controversies over the years: the three-pointed star that appears at the top of the stone arch over the cathedral’s front doors that some remember as a six-pointed star. The discrepancy may have begun in 1927 with the publication of Willa Cather’s Death Comes for the Archbishop, a fictionalized account of Santa Fe’s first archbishop, Jean Baptiste Lamy, who served from 1850 to 1885. ➤

2012-13 Winterlife

In the book, Cather recounts the building of the cathedral, which was dedicated in 1886, and notes the financial help of local Jewish merchants in the construction. She points out that the word Yahweh, the Hebrew word for God from the Old Testament, was enclosed in a six-pointed star, considered the Star of David, first king of Israel. The inscription is still there, encased in a threepointed triangle — at least since the recent renovation of the cathedral undertaken in the past decade by the former rector, the Very Rev. Msgr. Jerome Martinez y Alire, who staunchly maintains that it was always a triangle, a Christian symbol of the Holy Trinity. Yet, many observers swear they saw a six-pointed star before the renovation, though perhaps this belief is based on the description from the Cather novel. Fray Angélico Chávez, the respected historian, author and poet, got into the fray in 1947 with the publication of a small paperback book, Santa Fe Cathedral of St. Francis of Assisi. In a discussion of the building of the current structure by Lamy, he wrote, “There was an old story attributing the Hebrew name of God (Yahweh), seen carved above the main entrance, to Archbishop Lamy’s friendship for the pioneer Jewish merchants of Santa Fe, who had contributed to the building of the Cathedral with donations and loans. However, this Hebrew Tetragram is in a triangle denoting the Holy Trinity; hence, it cannot be imagined as a compliment to Jewish friends.” He then hedged with the comment, “Yet, it could have been mutually meant and interpreted as such. Actually, it [the word Yahweh within a triangle] is a very old Christian symbol” and can be seen reflected in other Roman Catholic churches in Santa Fe, both carved in stone and woven in holy materials that have no Jewish connections. The book was revised and updated in 1968, 1978 and 1987 — with the same information — shortly before Chávez’s death. Another historian, Paul Horgan, supports this version is his 1975 biography of Lamy, Lamy of Santa Fe, in which he wrote: “The Jews of Santa Fe were happy to see the Hebrew symbol for Yahweh carved and within a stone triangle over the main door, and some said this was done by Lamy out of gratitude for Jewish [financial] support — though theologians pointed out that the triangle and the Hebraic letters symbolized the Holy Trinity enclosing the Godhead, a device long known in traditional use by the Church.” Santa Fe sculptor and retired architect Donna Quasthoff, who created the 20 religiously and historically significant bas-relief bronze plaques mounted on the two massive door panels below the stone arch, said she was “not sure now” whether there was a three- or six-pointed star encasing the word. “I can’t recall, although now that I think about it, it may have been the six-pointed star,” the noted sculptor said. She worked closely with Chávez in 1985 and 1986 on the original 16 plaques. “He provided the themes or concepts for the plaques, and I researched and designed them based on those concepts,” she said. Martinez subsequently had Quasthoff create four more plaques, now interspersed with the others, when

2012-13 Winterlife

“It’s been called the heart of Santa Fe, regardless of your faith,” said Ortega. “I see it as ‘home at the end of the road’ (San Francisco Street), because, for me, it is a homecoming. “I was born and raised nearby in the Cristo Rey parish, and my mother and grandmother still live in the family home. Although it’s a smaller parish than the one I just came from [Santa Maria de la Paz Community, south of the city], it feels like home, and I am at peace here.” In a broader context, “the cathedral is the mother church, presiding over all the diocese,” Ortega said. “It has been the home parish for the diocese since 1610.” Ortega also is pastor of Cristo Rey and rector of Santo Niño Regional Catholic School and has maintained his relationship with St. Michael’s High School, of which he is a graduate, as “kind of a chaplain.” At 46, he is youth oriented and technologically savvy. “Oh, yes, I rely on my iPad and iPhone, and we even have a Facebook account for the cathedral,” Ortega said drolly. “I reach out to folks via these electronics, and they respond constantly. Even my mom texts me all the time!”

Christmas holidays at the cathedral Courtesy PalaCe of the Governors neG# 010005

Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy and St. Francis Cathedral as originally planned.

he had the doors heightened in the renovation. There were efforts to secure photos of the cathedral entrance before the renovation, but none has been found. So, the mystery of the original image and the meaning of the carving continue. Money — or the lack thereof — was at the root of many problems with the construction of the cathedral in the late 19th century. Stories recount that the original plans for the building called for a pair of 160-foot-tall belfries framing the church. They were to be wooden and multitiered in the Baroque style and topped with domed cupolas. Apparently, Lamy ran out of money before the belfries could be constructed as imagined. Thus, the cathedral retains its distinctive squared-off towers, drawing the faithful and the curious to its soaring presence just off the Plaza. This is just as well, because subsequent engineering studies suggest that the towers would have collapsed of their own weight and height had they been built as planned. There’s even a question of how many churches have occupied the site since 1610. Chávez suggests the cathedral basilica is the sixth church, while the cathedral basilica’s website states that the current structure is the fourth church on the site. Still others have said it is the fifth. The Very Rev. Adam Lee Ortega y Ortiz, recently appointed as the cathedral’s new rector, said it’s his understanding that it is the third church on the site and the fifth home of the parish. Regardless, he said, the present structure is the mother church for the Catholic community in this diocese and the hub, or center, of the City Different.

If the cathedral is the heart of Santa Fe, the Christmas holidays are the soul of the city, when the magic of Santa Fe is revealed for locals and visitors alike. The holiday season commences, officially, in Santa Fe with the Plaza lighting ceremony the day after Thanksgiving. For many Christians, the sacred religious season begins with Advent, a time of waiting and preparation for the celebration of the birth of Jesus. This year, the third Sunday of Advent (Gaudete Sunday, or “Rejoice Sunday”) is December 15 and is celebrated with the lighting of the Advent wreath. Traditionally, the pope blesses the children in Nativity scenes, and Ortega plans to bless Baby Jesus statues brought from home Nativities to that Sunday’s Masses. The ecumenical posada begins at 1 p.m. December 16 at the Holy Faith Episcopal Church, proceeds to First Presbyterian Church and winds up at the cathedral. Everyone is welcome to join a posada, which recreates the journey of Mary and Joseph to Bethlehem and their search for an inn. The cathedral will hold the Anticipatory Mass of Christmas/Christmas Family Mass at 5:15 p.m. Christmas Eve, while the Christmas Vigil begins at 11 p.m. that night with lessons and carols, followed by the Vigil Mass and Closing of Las Posadas at midnight. Christmas Day will be celebrated with Masses at 8 a.m., 10 a.m. and noon. There will be no evening Mass; the Cathedral will be closed following the Noon Mass. To celebrate the New Year, there will be a 5:15 p.m. Mass on December 31, followed by a special Mass at 10 a.m. New Year’s Day. Finally, the church will celebrate the Feast of the Three Kings with special Epiphany Masses at 8 a.m., 10 a.m. and noon on January 6, 2013. For more information, visit the cathedral’s website: www.cbsfa.org. A list of all seasonal church events and activities will be available at the cathedral beginning Thanksgiving weekend.

house of ancestors ANTIQUES & INTERIORS

Antique Furnishings, Folk Art, Ceramics & Devotional Art from All of the Americas 307 Pino Road, Santa Fe Directly behind Kaune’s Market on Old Santa Fe Trail

505.490.2653 houseofancestors @ gmail.com Monday –Saturday 10:30 – 5:30 pm or By Appointment

Featuring quality toys and games from fair-labor manufacturers in America, Europe and ports around the world

Eliot Porter

Monday - Thursday 10 - 5ish Friday & Saturday 10 - 5:30ish Sunday 12 - 4ish

Plaza Mercado • 112 W. San Francisco St. • Suite 212-C • 982-9373

Laura Gilpin

We are located 10 minutes from the Plaza near Museum Hill Call for directions and appointment 505.988.5116

2012-2013 WINTERLIFE

Stop. Look. Learn.

Indian, Spanish markets move indoors for festive winter events By Kay LocKridge

Visitors flock to Santa Fe during the summer for art, music and culture — but locals know that the City Different comes alive during the winter holidays.

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Artis

The Winter Indian Market, sponsored by the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA), kicks off Thanksgiving weekend at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center with 150 Native artists from the U.S. and Canada. Six artist demonstration studios — staffed by 2012 Best of Class jeweler Vernon Haskie, Native Peoples’ 2012 Creativity Award winner Allen Aragon, 2011 SWAIA fellowship winner painter Ryan Lee Smith and potter Erik Fender among others — will be scattered

throughout the center. “We [SWAIA staff and artists] are all really excited about this year’s Winter Indian Market,” said director of public relations and marketing Tailinh Agoyo. “Every year, it grows in terms of attendance and interest and tends to set the tone for the holiday season in Santa Fe.” Other market highlights include a silent auction from 10 a.m. to noon on Saturday, November 24, featuring Indian art donated by artists, galleries and merchants, with all proceeds going to SWAIA, and a fashion row in the back of the main room, showing wearable art created by Native fashion designers, including Penny Singer (Navajo/Diné). There will also be a youth area showcasing the work of young artists who have studied under mentors including Marla Anderson, Orlando Dugi, Kenneth Johnson and Ryan Singer. A raffle of two holiday trees decorated with one-of-a-kind ornaments designed by renowned SWAIA artists is another new feature. Entertainment is provided by Tchin (Blackfeet/ Narragansett), who performs the courting flute and a colorful contemporary take on traditional storytelling. He appears twice on Saturday Painter N (1 and 4 p.m.) and again on Sunday (1 p.m.). The ocona Burg ess (Coman che) performer also is a jewelry maker, among other artistic endeavors, and has a booth showcasing his work at the market. Award-winning films from the 2012 summer Indian Market Class X competition also will be screened during Winter Market. Feature length films Mesnak and Shouting Secrets show at 11 a.m. and at 2 p.m. respectively, on both Saturday and Sunday, with the shorts running just prior to each. “I love [Winter Market],” noted Comanche painter Nocona Burgess said, “because it’s smaller [in terms of the number of artists and location], it’s more casual and intimate. We get to really talk with fellow

2012-13 Winterlife

artists, friends and collectors, especially those who are locals. And this show draws more locals, as well as those who have second homes in the city. “Plus, it’s a wonderful time, what with Christmas right around the corner. I’ll bring a piece to work on during lulls in the show. I hope people won’t be afraid to come up and talk with me; I can talk and paint at the same time, because I have the picture in mind.” Burgess expects to bring at least 30 pieces to Winter Indian Market, with upward of 60 percent of it new work. See his art at the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture and at www.eagleserpentstudios.com/nocona.

Seasonal mood setter Winter Spanish Market follows the next weekend (December 1-2), also at the convention center, and features the finest Spanish colonial art created by more than 100 artists drawn from the annual summer Traditional Spanish Market. “If there’s only one reason to attend this market, it’s to see the first European-inspired art forms in the United States,” said Donna Pedace, executive director of the Spanish Colonial Arts Society, which oversees the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art and Spanish Market. “Contemporary Spanish colonial art is drawn from the history and traditions of the Spanish colonial period in Northern New Mexico 400 years ago. Remember, Santa Fe was the last Spanish outpost in what became part of the United States more than 200 years later.” Maggie Magalnick, director of Spanish Market, noted many additional reasons to visit the winter market: “This is the living exhibition of the Spanish colonial culture, and it’s accessible to everyone. The Spanish Market is a place to learn about Spanish colonial art as it’s being created. It’s a wonderful, wonderful gathering.” Both Magalnick and Pedace pointed out that while awards for outstanding art are plentiful at the summer Spanish Market, only one — the Boeckman Honorary Award for Innovation — is presented during Winter Spanish Market. “This award encourages and recognizes art that pushes the envelope,” Pedace said. Artists also are encouraged to work on their art during the market, with a special area set aside for demonstrations. Winter Spanish Market week begins Wednesday, November 28, with the second annual Luncheon With the Artists, at which various artists join collectors and other visitors at each table, giving them the opportunity to learn more about the artist and his or her art in a social setting. The fun continues Friday evening, November 30, at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center with WinterNite, during which the artists will show and sell their art, giving attendees a head start on the two-day Winter Spanish Market that begins the next day. The evening also features music, hors d’oeuvres and a cash bar. The annual Market Mass is a highlight of the weekend. All artists, guests and visitors are invited to the Sunday morning event at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Arthur and Bernadette Lopez, who say they especially appreciate the Mass, are a husband-and-wife team who often collaborate on special pieces — but each does his or her own thing when it comes to the Winter

Shop. Enjoy!

WINTER INDIAN MARKET Early Bird Shopping Saturday, November 24, 9-10 a.m. Santa Fe Community Convention Center 201 W. Marcy Street $5 with SWAIA membership To become a SWAIA member call Denise Keron at 505-983-5220.

General Winter Indian Market Hours Saturday, November 24, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday, November 25, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Santa Fe Community Convention Center 201 W. Marcy Street $5 per day; children under 12 free. Performances and film screenings included in price of admission. Call 505-983-5220 or visit www.swaia.org.

WINTER SPANISH MARKET Luncheon With the Artists

Arthur Lope z holds up tw o matachine

Sponsored by the Spanish Colonial Arts Society. Wednesday, November 28, at noon Hotel St. Francis, 210 Don Gaspar Avenue Tickets are $55 per person; a table of 11 (including a Spanish Market artist) is $500. Advance reservations are required; call 505-982-2226 or visit www.SpanishColonial.org for reservations or more information.

masks.

Jane Phil

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Spanish Market. ‘The winter market gets you into the seasonal mood,” Arthur said. “And, it’s just a fun time for the artists and all who attend,” Bernadette added. “Plus, it’s free for the public, and that’s especially good in this economic climate,” Arthur said. “It’s a great place to start as a collector, because you have time to talk with the artists and ask lots of questions. Many artists bring lower priced items to the winter market, and they make good starting purchases.” The Lopezes’ work may be seen at the Spanish Colonial Art Museum and at www. artlopezart.com.

Where ‘fine’ meets ‘folk’ While you’re visiting the Winter Indian Market and Winter Spanish Market at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, be sure to walk a few steps across the hallway to the Community Gallery, where a special show — “The Fine Folk of New Mexico: People, Places and Culture Through Art” — is up through January 5. The show is curated by santero Arthur Lopez and includes more than 25 notable contemporary Indian, Hispanic and Anglo artists. y re a “The [show] was inspired by the C o ñ e Monta y Christin b rt art of the people, places and culture of a in T New Mexico,” Lopez said. “New Mexico is rich in culture and traditions from the Native American people to the religious artwork brought by the Spanish 400 years ago and the academic influences of the Anglo settlers. These riches are still fostered today,” he said, “and they produce art that is unique to the Land of Enchantment. The show focuses on the common threads from fine and folk art that make up the diverse group of artistic talents selected for the show.”

Winter Spanish Market Sponsored by the Spanish Colonial Arts Society Saturday, December 1, 9 a.m.- 5 p.m. Sunday, December 2, 9:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Santa Fe Community Convention Center 201 W. Marcy Street Admission is free. For more information call 505-982-2226 or visit www.SpanishColonial.org.

WinterNite A holiday party sponsored by the Spanish Colonial Arts Society during which market artists exhibit and sell their art Friday, November 30, 6-9 p.m. Santa Fe Community Convention Center 201 W. Marcy Street Tickets are $25 for Spanish Colonial Arts Society members and $40 for nonmembers. Reservations must be made in advance. For more information or reservations, call 505-982-2226 or visit www.SpanishColonial.org.

COMMUNITY GALLERY The Fine Folk of New Mexico: People, Places and Culture Through Art A show sponsored by the Santa Fe Arts Commission Tuesday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. through January 5 closed Sundays and Mondays Santa Fe Community Convention Center 201 W. Marcy Street Admission is free. For more information call 505-955-6705 or visit www.SantaFeArtsCommission.org.

Holiday lights brighten historic city center Sto ry By K ay Loc K r i d g e • p h otoS By g e n e p e ac h The Plaza lighting ceremony, held annually the evening after Thanksgiving, began because of one man’s love of the holiday season in Santa Fe. “I’ll never forget the day (in 1987) when Ed Berry (founder of The Shop – A Christmas Store) said — with a tear in his eye — that ‘Santa Fe needs to have a celebration. … Christmas is the best time of the year in Santa Fe, and that needs to be recognized,’” said Mark Griego, who, with his wife, Janice, bought the shop from Berry 10 years ago. But Griego acknowledged that the event wouldn’t happen without Mark Aragon and his crew at the city Parks and Recreation Division. Seven or eight workers, including two electricians and an apprentice, prepare and light up the Plaza for the holidays. Aragon and his crew begin putting up the lights and other effects right after Veterans Day. All the decorations,

Deck the Plaza

including the lights, are illuminated through New Year’s Day, and “everything has to come down and be put away by the end of January,” Griego said. The Plaza lighting ceremony this year begins at 3 p.m. Friday, November 23. Various community groups, including the Girl Scout Choir and the Santa Maria de la Paz Choir, will perform on the bandstand. “This year, the Santa Fe Brass will join the entertainment lineup,” said Bobbi Mossman, who coordinates the event for the Public Works Department, which oversees the parks crew. “We want to involve everyone who wants to be involved in the celebration.” Santa and Mrs. Claus arrive about 4 p.m. on a vintage fire truck provided by Roger Lamoreux, who owns the crane service that hoists Parks Department employees. Approximately 12,000 lights are used on the trees, decorations and bandstand, as well as on the electric farolitos that line the perimeter of the Plaza.

2012-13 Winterlife

If you go Annual lighting ceremony, featuring entertainment, Santa and Mrs. Claus and the lighting of more than 12,000 lights in and around the Santa Fe Plaza. 3 to 8 p.m. Friday, November 23

“The city also provides the luminarias on the portals around the Plaza,” Griego said, although The Palace of the Governors supplies its own luminarias on the north side. Rounding out the city’s decorations are greenery and garlands around various poles and two “scenes” on the west and east sides of the Plaza — one a skating family and the other a sleigh with reindeer and Santa. Speaking of Santa, he and Mrs. Claus take up residence in a special hut created by the Christmas Shop

where they’ll be available for photos until the event ends at 8 p.m. Joining the festivities are Mayor David Coss, City Manager Robert Romero and various City Council members. The mayor begins the countdown at 6 p.m. “There are always oohs and aahs when the lights go on,” Griego noted. Entertainment resumes after the lighting and continues until 8 p.m. Various local groups and musicians plan to have a jam session involving the audience, Mossman said. Guitarists and singers who start the improvisation will be joined by the Solera Sisters, trumpeter and singer Ryan Montano and drummer Eddie Garcia of the Equal Cut band. “This is a great family event that brings the entire community together to experience the magic of the holiday season in Santa Fe,” Coss said.

KESHi

the zuni connection

The Santa Fe Desert Chorale 30 th Anniversary Season

227 don gaspar santa fe nm 87501 505.989.8728

Celebrate Your Holidays with Glorious Music

www.keshi.com fetishes jewelry pottery

WINTER FESTIVAL DECEMBER 14-31, 2012 troy sice

WHY SANTA FE READERS SHOP AT BOOK MOUNTAIN 1. LARGE SELECTION: More than 30,000 different titles on our shelves. 2. LOW PRICES: We sell used paperbacks at 40% of the cover price. 3. EASY TO FIND: Books are categorized and alphabetized. 4. READ & RECYCLE: A generous exchange policy. 5. FUN: A friendly and helpful staff.

Santa Fe

Carols and Lullabies Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis Dec 14, 18, 20, 21, 22 The Big Holiday Sing Cristo Rey Church Dec 15 The Lighter Side of Christmas LewAllen Gallery-Downtown Dec 19 A Toast to the New Year Loretto Chapel & Church of the Holy Faith Dec 28, 29, 30, 31 Albuquerque

471-2625 2101 Cerrillos Rd.

The Big Holiday Sing Immanuel Presbyterian Church Dec 16

live winter web blog.

Carols and Lullabies Immanuel Presbyterian Church Dec 23

You Need

When severe weather, school closings or other urgent situations arise, turn to us, The Santa Fe New Mexican, for news and information to keep your family safe and up to date. Go to www.santafenewmexican.com/winterblog

You turn to us.

S a n t a Fe

DESERT CHORALE Glorious Voices. Timeless Music.

www.desertchorale.org | Online tickets: www.ticketssantafe.org | Tel 505 988 1234

163 Years of Trust and Reliability in the Santa Fe Community 2012-2013 WINTERLIFE

Adventure and friendship await on the fiber arts trails During her second winter in her new Santa Fe home, retired medical editor Christine Zucker spent a few hours each week knitting with new friends over homemade apricot bread and herbal tea. Her Labradoodle named Enchilada (Chile for short) took great delight in the clicking sound of the needles and the colorful, half-formed hats, scarves, socks, and sweaters draped over the laps of women in the living room. Zucker, meanwhile, looked forward to the company as she transitioned from life in New Jersey to life in New Mexico. “It’s fun to have people to talk to when you’re knitting,” she said. It all started with a casual conversation at a party. Zucker offered to help a woman who expressed an interest in knitting. Soon, they were seated on the leather couch under Zucker’s collection of Mexican masks, talking stitches and such. Three women joined them and the group kept a regular schedule for a while. But when the weather warmed up, the group petered out. Zucker, however, kept on knitting. As the seasons changed, she switched from wool to linen and sought out public knitting tables. She knitted at Tutto Fine Yarn and Buttons shop until it moved to a smaller location on Galisteo Street. Then she and other yarn devotees gathered at Collected Works Bookstore. As winter approaches again, Zucker said she hopes to revive her living room knitting circle.

Threads of tradition Northern New Mexico has always been a special place for fiber arts, from the weavers of Chimayó to cottage industries to people who have made sweaters and scarves for their own families. Today, there are more practitioners

Sum of the Parts, Lisa Trujillo 48 x 72, mixed dyes, modern Centinela Traditional Arts

than you might imagine, from the women’s collectives funded by the New Mexico Women’s Foundation, to individual artists, growers, and businesses featured through New Mexico Fiber Arts Trails and New Mexico Fiber Artisans, to a burgeoning band of alpaca breeders who love digging their hands into sacks of raw fiber. There are nationally known education programs, such as the 400-member Española Valley Fiber Arts Center. And there are tucked-away getaways

CourteSy photo

a winter’s tale Story By Diana Del M auro | ma p By Dar l e n e Mce l roy

A Guide to the North Central Loop of The New Mexico Fiber Arts Trail 150

Arroyo Seco

Taos

10. Weaving Southwest

9. Río Fernando Farm

Dixon

8. Me’tier Fiber Studio

518

Peñasco 76

Española

6. Art for the Heart: A Place to Create! 7. TDLT Fiber Artisans

Mora

Chimayó

1. Black Mesa Fiber Arts 2. Española Valley Fiber Arts Center

11. Tapetes de Lana 12. Victory Ranch Alpacas

3. Centinela Traditional Arts 4. Karen Martinez Studio & Gallery 5. Ortega’s Weaving Shop

518 84

SANTA FE

Las Vegas

13. Furniture and More 14. World Treasures and the Travelers Café

Madrid

15. Johnsons of Madrid Galleries of Fine & Fiber Art 16. Tapestry Gallery

Edgewood

17. Robin Pascal Fiber Artist and Perfect Buttons 18. Sandrasilk

ALBUQUERQUE

Note: All locations are by appointment only. Contact the studio, farm or shop to set a date for your visit and verify directions. For more information, go to www.nmfiberarts.org.

Key to the North Central Loop 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Black Mesa Fiber Arts, south of Española, 505-753-3781 Española Valley Fiber Arts Center, Española, 505-747-3577, www.evfac.org Centinela Traditional Arts, Chimayó, 505-351-2180 Karen Martinez Studio & Gallery, Chimayó, 505-927-5509 Ortega’s Weaving Shop, Chimayó, 877-351-4215, ortegasweaving.com Art for the Heart: A Place to Create!, Peñasco, 575-587-2200 or 505-417-0155, art-for-the-heart.org TDLT Fiber Artisans, Peñasco, 575-587-1076, www.gauchoblue.com Me’tier Fiber Studio, Dixon, 505-579-4111 Río Fernando Farm, Taos, 575-758-0019

10. Weaving Southwest, Arroyo Seco (near Taos), 575-758-0433, 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

www.weavingsouthwest.com Tapetes de Lana, Mora, 575-387-2247, moravalleyspinningmill.com Victory Ranch Alpacas, Mora, 575-387-2254, www.victoryranch.com Furniture and More, Las Vegas, New Mexico, 505-454-9133 or 505-425-8485 World Treasures and the Travelers Café, Las Vegas, New Mexico Johnsons of Madrid Galleries of Fine and Fiber Art, Madrid, 505-471-1054 Tapestry Gallery, Madrid, 505-471-0194, www.tapgal.com Robin Pascal Fiber Artist and Perfect Buttons, Edgewood, 505-286-1783, perfectbuttons.com Sandrasilk, Edgewood, 505-414-1292, www.sandrasilk.com

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for those who wish to spin at the side of a master weaver by day and relax in an adobe guest house with quiet, old-world charm by night. Given such endless options, there’s no need to succumb to cabin fever this season or to feel trapped by mind-numbing shopping mall experiences. Despite all sorts of attempts to map the surprising world of contemporary and traditional fiber arts in New Mexico, it’s like an ever-changing quilt, especially since the U.S. economic downturn in 2008. Here, we’ve pulled together a roundup of resources that will satisfy the adventuresome, the novice, and the arts-and-crafts snob alike. You’ll find rural outposts and urban hotspots, locally produced and imported wares, as well as high-ticket and by-donation classes. “New Mexico has one of the largest fiber arts communities in the United States,” said Katy Blanchard, a Youngsville resident and director of New Mexico Fiber Artisans, a coalition with more than 50 members. “It’s still very vibrant. We’re trying to find the right puzzle pieces to help get the word out about fiber artisans. We’re in a state of flux as to where to go from here.”

A new spin on life Part of the thrill of delving into the fiber arts scene is the people you meet and the conversations you strike up along the way. For some, fiber arts are a way to connect to the Spanish and Native American cultures of the region. For others, fiber arts are merely another artistic medium for self-expression. “There’s all kinds of fiber cultures in New Mexico: Some old and traditional, and some new,” said Bethe Orrell, director of Española Valley Fiber Arts Center. The 6,000-square-foot nonprofit hub for Northern New Mexico’s fiber network offers year-round classes, a consignment gallery, 34 looms and a wide variety of supplies. Orrell is typical of the middle-lifers you’ll also meet — “People,” she said, “who made their living, and now they’re making their life.” When Orrell reached her 40s, she turned her back on an accounting career and invested instead in goats and sheep. She opened a yarn store in Edgewood and devoted her time to knitting, weaving, felting, dyeing — anything warm and fuzzy she could get her hands on. “That’s kind of who the alpaca farmers are,” Orrell observed as well. The New Mexico Alpaca Breeders Association, formed in 2002, now has 25 members, including eight in Santa Fe County alone. Native to South America, alpacas are raised for their luxurious fiber, which is said to be softer than cashmere, lighter weight than wool. Sandrasilk

Anne Stallcup, owner of Que Sera Alpacas south of Eldorado, calls her farm a place “where miracles never cease.” She was a businesswoman in Santa Fe when she visited her first alpaca farm on an outing for a friend’s birthday. It took her 50 years to find her passion, but once she did, she didn’t waste any time. Within a few months, in 2003, she purchased her first Huacaya alpacas. She now owns about 50, and her stripped-down juniper trees show it. (Alpacas like to floss their teeth with the bitter needles.) Quick on her feet about alpaca behavior and quirky traits, Stallcup loves to give private farm tours upon request. To get certified to sort and grade alpaca fiber for the commercial mill process, Stallcup went to Alberta, Canada, to study with expert Ruth Elvestad at the Natural Fibre Centre at Olds College. “That class — and the breakthrough moment when I really felt I learned the art of hand spinning — were really the life changers,” she said. Stallcup was busy breeding and raising alpacas for several years before she grew interested in fiber arts. It took her two years, with three different instructors, to get the hang of drop spinning and produce something that you might want to knit with. “I was crying I was so happy,” she said. “I started spinning, and I couldn’t stop.” Today, the walls of the Que Sera shop are decorated with the ribbons Stallcup’s alpacas have won at shows around the country. She attributes some of her success to the New Mexico climate, which she said is wellsuited to producing high-quality fiber. “New Mexico is a land of big skies, grand vistas, enchanted outof-the-way places, clean air and lots of sunshine. It is also home to some of the finest quality alpacas in the United States,” Stallcup notes on her website. While attending six shows a year, she has observed that New Mexico alpacas (not just hers) compete equally or better than alpacas from other states. “I’m always proud how well the New Mexico alpacas do at shows, and I don’t think we get enough credit,” she said.

••• For Christine Zucker, knitting is a family tradition. She learned the craft from her grandmother, who made sweaters for Zucker’s children. She kept them all these years, long after her children outgrew them. With a large family and a career, Zucker had little time for knitting herself. But once Zucker’s own grandchildren were on the way, she picked up the craft again with a sense of purpose, rather than practicality. After all, a simple baby blanket can run $70, given the price of yarn. “The purpose of doing it is it’s a work of art,” Zucker said. She paused, then added, “Maybe you hope that some of the things might be handed down.”

Related event Third Annual Holiday Fiber Market, featuring all kinds of hand-dyed yarn and fine arts 12-7 p.m. December 7 and 9 a.m.-5 p.m. December 8 Santa Fe Women’s Club 1616 Old Pecos Trail, Santa Fe Free For more information call the Española Valley Fiber Arts Center, 505-747-3577, and Art Through the Loom Guild, 505-466-0107

TDLT Fiber Artisans

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Courtesy photos

Traces (detail), 2008, Irvin Trujillo 48” x 40” natural dyed wool, modern Centinela Traditional Arts

New Mexico Fiber Arts trAils

A little frayed but still fabulous The state’s arts trails continue to point the way to adventure and inspiration along the back roads of New Mexico. Banners began flying at studios, farms and textile-related businesses throughout rural New Mexico in 2007, signifying the launch of New Mexico Fiber Arts Trails. New Mexico Arts, a division of the state’s Cultural Affairs Office, developed an impressive circuit of three regional trails that showcased more than 200 artists at 71 stops in 18 counties. Under then-Gov. Bill Richardson’s rural economic initiatives and a one-time $250,000 legislative appropriation, the project placed a national spotlight on traditional and contemporary artists and their suppliers — “from sheep to shawl” — with the aim of bringing buyers to their doorsteps, no matter how far off the beaten path. Modeled after a successful program in North Carolina, the effort in the Land of Enchantment faced problems after the economy tanked in 2008. Tourists and locals might become confused or frustrated if they pick up one of the outdated brochures, “New Mexico Fiber Arts Trails: A Guide to Rural Fiber Arts Destinations,” before they head to the galleries, artist studios, workshops, trading posts, museums, farms, mills, cooperatives, suppliers, fiber arts centers and cottage enterprises that make up the tour, as some of those listed are no longer in business. However, the North Central Loop — once the largest of the three loops that make up the New Mexico Fiber Arts Trails — still has 18 of its original 31 sites on the tour, according to The Santa Fe New Mexican’s recent survey. “At the beginning, when it just started, a lot of people [traveled] the Fiber Arts Trail,” said Darcy Weisner, manager of Victory Ranch Alpacas, which her parents founded two decades ago in Mora. “You hear about it less and less, that’s for sure … but we’re happy to be a part of it.” The tour banner remains posted outside the ranch store. “I think it was very successful for a lot of fiber artisans,” said Katy Blanchard, director of a grassroots effort called New Mexico Fiber Artisans, which started with some support from New Mexico Arts. But because the trails bypassed urban areas, she believed the program was too narrow in its approach. New Mexico Fiber Artisans is now trying to forge a new, broader network of “all things fiber” that includes urban as well as rural locations. The group spreads the word about its 50-some members through a frequently updated website — www.nmfiberartisans.org — social media and a free directory published every two years.

A Guide to the North Central Loop the fiber Arts trails were created to connect shoppers to artisans and handcrafters to suppliers of materials. ranging from edgewood to Mora to taos, many of the locations on the north Central loop are far-flung. it would be difficult to cover them all in one weekend. 1. Black Mesa Fiber Arts, south of española, 505-753-3781. trish Spillman, founder of the española Valley fiber Arts Center, has 14 looms and offers lessons.

2. Española Valley Fiber Arts Center, española, 505-747-3577, www.evfac.org. the hub of the fiber arts network, the center offers classes, supplies and handmade wares. 3. Centinela Traditional Arts, Chimayó, 505-351-2180. the studio gallery features rio Grande weavings by such masters as irvin and lisa trujillo.

4. Karen Martinez Studio & Gallery, Chimayó, 505-927-5509. A seventhgeneration weaver in the rio Grande style, Martinez is an award-winning artist and a master instructor. 5. Ortega’s Weaving Shop, Chimayó, 877-351-4215, ortegasweaving.com. Visitors can watch as weavers make a jacket, vest, blanket or purse to their specifications. 6. Art for the Heart: A Place to Create!, Peñasco, 575-587-2200 or 505-417-0155, art-for-the-heart.org. Besides quilts, rag rugs and colcha embroidery, the gallery features UpCycled and PupCycled fashions, clothes for humans and hounds cut from discarded clothes. Art-making women’s groups (free art materials) are offered on thursdays and by-donation art classes are held on the last Sunday of every month. 7. TDLT Fiber Artisans, Peñasco, 575-587-1076, www.gauchoblue.com.

in 2011, tejedoras de las trampas (the Women Weavers of las trampas), a nonprofit venture of española Valley fiber Arts Center, changed its name and moved to Gaucho Blue’s gallery in Peñasco. Known for its rag rugs, the 11-member cooperative now also spins alpaca wool into yarn and weaves cloth for colcha, a kind of embroidery done in the state.

8. Me’tier Fiber Studio, Dixon, 505-579-4111. the studio sells Appalachianstyle baskets, weavings and wearable art, and holds classes in basketry, weaving, spinning and natural dyeing. 9. Río Fernando Farm, taos, 575-758-0019. At 8,400-feet in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the farm is a source of raw fiber, including angora rabbits, Pygora goats, alpacas and llamas. Owner Shelley loveless knits hats and scarves, often blending Angora rabbit with alpaca.

10. Weaving Southwest, Arroyo Seco (near taos), 575-758-0433,

www.weavingsouthwest.com. After closing for nine months, the shop moved from taos to Arroyo Seco this fall. Owner teresa loveless and others sell yarn they dye as well as weave custom rugs, blankets and pillows while also teaching classes and managing the business´ mail and phone orders.

11. Tapetes de Lana, Mora, 575-387-2247, moravalleyspinningmill.com. the Mora mill, which processes local Churro and lincoln wool and more, has added an espresso coffee bar. tapetes de lana started as a vocational training program but now is a weaving gallery, local art venue and yarn store. the mill offers affordable weaving classes and loom rentals. 12. Victory Ranch Alpacas, Mora, 575-387-2254, www.victoryranch.com.

TDLT Fiber Artisans

this is the nation’s largest alpaca yarn retailer, from local and imported sources, and the Southwest’s largest alpaca ranch. educational, $5-a-person alpaca tours are offered, and visitors can purchase gifts for adults and children (sweaters, jackets, wraps, mittens, hats and muffs) and supplies in the store and online. Overnight weaving classes with lodging in an adobe house are also offered. Closed January 1 to March 15, except by appointment.

Additional fiber arts resources New Mexico Fiber Artisans, www.nmfiberartisans.org

13. Furniture and More, las Vegas, new Mexico, 505-454-9133 or

Women’s Cottage Industries, nmwf.org/cottage-industries

505-425-8485. Offered here are handspun wool table runners by Beatrice Maestas Sandoval as well as rugs, shawls and tin crosses inset with colcha embroidery.

Santa Fe Creative Tourism, www.santafecreativetourism.org New Mexico Alpaca Breeders Association, www.newmexicoalpacabreeders.org.

14. World Treasures and the Travelers Café, las Vegas, new Mexico,

505-426-8638. the gallery features five working looms and weavings made of yarn from tapetes de lana.

Start here to find a map of 25 alpaca breeders, an online shop of alpaca wool merchandise, and fiber art supplies sold through New Mexico ranches as well as information about alpaca farm tours. Members in Santa Fe area include Blue Mesa Alpacas, Rancho Meluca Alpacas, Akasha Alpacas, Dream Catcher Ranchito Alpacas, Que Sera Alpacas, Rancho de Los Sueños. Members in Edgewood are Stable Investments Alpaca Ranch and South Mountain Alpacas.

15. Johnsons of Madrid Galleries of Fine and Fiber Art, Madrid,

505-471-1054. the gallery represents 50 fiber artists making “wearable and wallable” art.

16. Tapestry Gallery, Madrid, 505-471-0194, www.tapgal.com. the shop offers wearable art and yarn supplies. 17. Robin Pascal Fiber Artist and Perfect Buttons, edgewood, 505-286-

1783, perfectbuttons.com. this location offers exotic buttons and mixed-warp shawls with novelty yarns, including strips of beaver fur recycled from antique hats.

Alpacas Kokomo and Autumn at Victory Ranch in Mora

18. Sandrasilk, Edgewood, 505-414-1292, www.sandrasilk.com. Sandra Holzman recently built a new studio in edgewood where she crafts wearable art out of silk. Her specialty is hand-painted fabrics, and she teaches silk painting and dyeing.

2012-13 Winterlife

A lAndscApe of inspirAtion New Mexico writers find their muse in state’s cultures, surroundings By Arin McKennA

frank Waters was known as the grandfather of southwestern literature. despite being nominated for the nobel prize in literature several times, Waters has also been called America’s greatest unknown writer. His accolades include a rockefeller foundation grant and a fellowship for creative Writers from the national endowment for the Arts. Waters vividly depicts mid-20th century northern new Mexico in The Man Who Killed the Deer, which is based on the trial he witnessed of a taos pueblo man who killed a deer out of season. the novel has been in print since it was published in 1942. People of the Valley, also by Waters, portrays an isolated Hispanic community in the sangre de cristo mountains that is threatened by a changing world. for an insider’s view of northern new Mexican Hispanic culture, read fray Angélico chávez’s Guitars and Adobes, written in response to Willa cather’s disparaging portrayal of Hispanics in Death Comes for the Archbishop. chávez’s love of his people and culture comes through in every page of this heartwarming novel.

2012-13 Winterlife

“the man made of words,” n. scott Momaday, won a 1969 pulitzer prize for his first novel, House Made of Dawn. His other awards include a Guggenheim fellowship and the Academy of American poets prize. Momaday’s mastery of language captivates, whether he is portraying the deterioration and ultimate healing of an emotionally wounded American indian World War ii veteran (House Made of Dawn) or retelling the stories his father told him as a child (The Way to Rainy Mountain). Momaday considers himself primarily a poet. for the best of his early poetry as well as some of his most recent work, pick up Again the Far Morning: New and Selected Poems. Momaday is also an artist and did the illustrations for his only children’s book, Circle of Wonder: A Native American Christmas Story.

rudolfo Anaya has been called the father of chicano literature. His awards include the national Medal of Arts for literature and a pen lifetime Achievement Award. Anaya’s writing echoes the storytelling traditions he grew up with, bringing a lyric quality to all his work. His first novel, Bless Me Ultima, has become a classic. this coming-of-age story about a boy growing up in a small Hispanic town in new Mexico’s llano (plains) and his relationship with a curandera (healer), is the first in a semiautobiographical trilogy. A movie based on the novel was released this fall. some of Anaya’s thought-provoking reflections have been collected in The Essays. At the other end of the spectrum is a four-part mystery series that leads the reader through some gripping suspense, the main character’s embrace of his cultural roots and spirituality, and new Mexico’s history and cultural landscape. Zia Summer is the first in the series.

leslie Marmon silko entered the literary scene with The Man to Send Rain Clouds, a short story she wrote and published while in college. it earned her a national endowment for the Humanities discovery Grant. Marmon silko won acclaim for her first novel Ceremony, a story about a laguna pueblo veteran’s recovery from the “battle fatigue” of World War ii and the Bataan death March. Marmon silko’s awards include a MacArthur “Genius Award,” the pushcart prize and the 1994 native Writers’ circle of the Americas lifetime Achievement Award. some of Marmon silko’s work, such as Almanac of the Dead, is edgy, but she has an uncanny ability to portray sectors of society beyond the ken of the average person. Her distinctive prose also enriches nonfiction such as The Turquoise Ledge: A Memoir, a broad-ranging exploration of Marmon silko’s heritage and the southwestern environment.

Whether Jimmy santiago Baca is writing poetry about his morning runs along the rio Grande’s bosque in Winter Poems Along the Rio Grande or a portrait of the twisted paths people take to claim their piece of the American dream in A Glass of Water, his powerful use of language reaches straight to the soul and inspires healing and hope. Baca is a recipient of the pushcart prize, American Book Award, national Hispanic Heritage Award, national endowment poetry Award and more. that Baca taught himself to read and write during a stint in federal prison for a crime he maintains he did not commit makes his mastery that much more remarkable. His moving memoir, A Place to Stand, reveals how poetry became a lifeline during that dark period of his life.

For a glimpse into the arts colonies of early 20th century New Mexico, there is no better place to start than with the “first lady of Taos,” salon hostess and art patroness Mabel Dodge Luhan. Dodge Luhan was famous for her celebrity houseguests, which included D.H. Lawrence, Georgia O’Keeffe, Ansel Adams, Thornton Wilder, Carl Jung, Martha Graham and Leopold Stokowski. Dodge Luhan’s memoirs, The Edge of Taos Desert: Escape to Reality and Winter in Taos, are reflections on her love of New Mexico and her relationship with Taos Pueblo member Tony Lujan, who became her fourth husband. Look to Luhan’s biographies, such as Mabel Dodge Luhan: New Woman, New Worlds by Lois Palken Rudnick, for the celebrity stories. The latest rage among Dodge Luhan’s fans is The Suppressed Memoirs of Mabel Dodge Luhan: Sex, Syphilis, and Psychoanalysis in the Making of Modern American Culture, also researched and edited by Palken Rudnick.

For New Mexico history that reads like fiction, choose one of Paul Horgan’s masterpieces. In his preface to The Centuries of Santa Fe, Horgan writes, “Using real traditions, events and many real persons, I have wanted to bring alive the historical realities of the past rather in the way of the documentary film.” Horgan achieves that by placing composite characters the reader can identify with in the midst of historical events. His mastery of what is now called “creative nonfiction” earned him Pulitzer Prizes for Great River: The Rio Grande in North American History and Lamy of Santa Fe. For current writings on New Mexico’s history, turn to Telling New Mexico: A New History, edited by Marta Weigle with Frances Levine and Louise Stiver. This comprehensive collection of 52 essays by 47 contributors covers every aspect of New Mexico’s history, including episodes — such as the Japanese internment camps of World War II — rarely found in other texts.

Cities of Gold: A Journey Across the American Southwest, by Douglas Preston, is more than an account of Preston’s journey in the footsteps of Francisco Vásquez de Coronado. Chapters depicting Preston’s adventures (and misadventures) are interspersed with well researched history of the region, ranging from Coronado’s journey to ranching traditions passed down through generations. Preston’s mysteries are frequently on The New York Times bestseller lists. Two good reads set in New Mexico are Tyrannosaur Canyon and Mountain Dragon, co-authored with Lincoln Child.

Blood and Thunder, by Hampton Sides, is an epic account of the 1846 invasion of New Mexico by the Army of the West. Sides’ meticulous research is matched by his engrossing storytelling, making this a difficult book to put down. The book was the subject of a major documentary on the PBS program American Experience, and is currently under development for the screen. For a firsthand account of the Mexican-American War, check out Down the Santa Fe Trail and Into Mexico: The diary of Susan Shelby Magoffin, 18461847. Magoffin was traveling the Santa Fe Trail with her husband, a trader, when they met up with the U.S. Army on their way to Santa Fe. Sides calls this one of his favorite New Mexico books.

109 East Palace: Robert Oppenheimer and the Secret City of Los Alamos, by Jennet Conant, is one of the best reads about the Manhattan Project. Conant grew up hearing her grandfather James Conant, the project’s main administrator, exchanging stories with the project’s scientists. Conant combines those memories with intensive research — she even read the fiction the scientists devoured — to create a vivid portrayal of life on “the Hill” and a detailed account of the project from beginning to end. The House at Otowi Bridge: The Story of Edith Warner and Los Alamos, by Peggy Pond Church, offers a more intimate view of the Manhattan Project as well as a contrasting portrait of San Ildefonso Pueblo. Warner’s tea room at the foot of the Pajarito Plateau became a magnet for scientists needing a break from the Hill. Warner was equally at ease with the Puebloan people and Niels Bohr or Robert Oppenheimer. The book includes a selection of Warner’s own moving journal entries.

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Thanksgiving’s Southwest roots

illustration by william rotsaert

LocaL TradiTions, LocaL foods combine in graTefuL ceLebraTion story and recipes By patricia Greathouse

photos By ryannan Bryer de hickman any Americans’ idea of a traditional Thanksgiving revolves around the images Norman Rockwell made famous in the 1940s and ’50s: Pilgrims in buckle shoes, big-breasted birds and steaming pies loaded on groaning boards, all commemorating the first Thanksgiving at Plimoth Plantation in 1621 in present-day Massachusetts.

The only problem with this much-loved American folktale is that by the time the Pilgrims were dazzling the Pequots with glass beads, the Spaniards were already firmly rooted in what is now the Southwest — and held their first fiesta of thanks. In 1598 explorer Don Juan de Oñate led a band of settlers north from Mexico to Santa Fe to claim the land and post granted him by the viceroy of New Spain. The desolate aridity of the Chihuahuan desert brought severe difficulties to the 500 travelers, whose wagons and 7,000 head of livestock stretched for more than four miles. After a nearly fatal struggle to reach water at the Rio Grande del Norte, they arrived at the river near what is now San Elizario, Texas. The travelers fell to their knees and gave thanks for survival. Preparations for a feast were declared and a bonfire lit. The Spaniards shared fish, duck and goose with Piro and Manso Indians, and the priests performed a ceremonial Mass during what some historians now claim is the first European/indigenous Thanksgiving in North America — 23 years before the Pilgrims set foot at Plymouth Rock. The story of our very own Southwestern Thanksgiving came to light about 30

2012-13 Winterlife

The menu

(*recipes included in this issue)

ancho chile and apple cider brined turkey* Blue cornbread dressing with chorizo, apples, pecans, and currants* red chile gravy* Green chile and greens savory pudding smashed golden potatoes with roasted garlic roasted buttercup squash slices mixed green salad with pears and blue goat cheese pumpkin or winter squash pie with pecan praline and goat cheese whipped cream* years ago, gleaned from the journal of Gaspar Perez de Villagra, one the settlers who had followed Oñate, hoping to become landowners in the far northern reaches of New Spain. Although these people would go on to etch out small farms in rich river and rugged mountain valleys, they had to face harsh and icy winters and short growing seasons in both locations. They survived by adopting the crops developed by the Puebloans, who had successfully farmed the region for millenia. As Josiah Gregg, a Santa Fe trader, explorer, and naturalist described them in his 1844 book Commerce of the Prairies, “[the] inhabitants lived in comfortable houses and cultivated the soil. ... Indeed, they are now considered the best horticulturists in the country, furnishing most of the fruits and a large portion of the vegetable supplies that are to be found in the markets.”

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Brining seasons the big bird all the way through and makes the meat tender and moist. However, the flavorful drippings can be very salty. Make sure that all components of the gravy are salt-free and that you taste as you gradually add the drippings to the gravy.

Ancho chile And Apple cider Brined Turkey 20 pound turkey, giblets and kidneys removed, scrubbed and drained heaping 1/3 cup ground ancho chile (about 8 stemmed and seeded dried chiles) 12 large garlic cloves (unpeeled is fine) 4 cored and chunked golden delicious apples 1 gallon water, divided 1 gallon organic apple juice or cider 2 cups kosher salt 1 cup dark brown sugar or molasses Special equipment: Brining bag put chile, garlic, apples, a cup of water and two cups of cider in the blender. Blend until smooth. pour into a larger bowl and add the water, apple juice, salt, and brown sugar or molasses; stir until salt and sugar dissolve. pour into brining bag or non-reactive pot that turkey just fits in. Add turkey. Brine in refrigerator for 20 hours. rinse and dry. continue to refrigerate if not roasting right away. Turkey may be brined two days before roasting. remove from refrigerator an hour before putting in the oven. preheat oven to 400 degrees F. place turkey in large, low-sided baking pan, tie legs together if desired, and place in oven. Bake until a thermometer reads 155 degrees in deepest part of thigh (uSdA recommends 165 degrees for safety). let turkey rest at least 20 minutes before serving.

••• Make the cornbread a day or two ahead of Thanksgiving in a preheated cast iron skillet for a crispy crust. The earthy cornbread is also delicious plain, slathered with butter or served with soup or a bowl of beans. To save preparation time on Thanksgiving Day, make the dressing the day before, cool and refrigerate overnight in a buttered ovenproof serving dish. Simply put in the oven an hour and 15 minutes before serving. La Mesa Organic Farm grows, grinds and sells its own blue corn at the Santa Fe Farmers Market.

2012-13 Winterlife

Blue cornBreAd dreSSing wiTh chorizo, AppleS, pecAnS And currAnTS

For the skillet cornbread: 1 cup blue cornmeal 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 3/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (use 1/3 less if using fine-grained salt) 3 large eggs at room temperature 1-3/4 cups well-shaken buttermilk, room temperature 1/2 stick unsalted butter preheat oven to 425 degrees F. put a cast iron skillet or heavy metal baking pan in the oven on middle rack. Stir together dry ingredients in small bowl. whisk together eggs and buttermilk in a medium bowl. when oven reaches 425 degrees, use a pot holder to remove skillet from oven. Add butter to skillet, swirling to coat bottom and sides. let butter melt completely; it will be foaming and beginning to brown. drain it into buttermilk mixture and return skillet to the oven. whisk to combine buttermilk and melted butter. Stir cornmeal mixture into buttermilk mixture just until evenly moistened but still slightly lumpy. don’t over beat. remove skillet from oven again and scrape batter into it, spreading as necessary. Bake until golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Turn out onto a rack. when it’s cool enough to handle, break cornbread up into 1/2 inch or smaller pieces, return to skillet, and place in oven. Stirring occasionally, dry out the cornbread for about 30 minutes. The insides shouldn’t be moist to the touch. For the dressing: 1 recipe skillet cornbread 1/2-3/4 pound bulk chorizo sausage (don’t use Spanish chorizo for this recipe; use the larger amount for a meatier dressing) 1 medium onion, chopped 3 celery ribs, chopped in 1/4 inch pieces 1 bunch scallions, sliced in 1/8 inch rounds, including most of green stem 2 small, sweet apples, skins left on if desired, cored and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, put through garlic press or finely minced 1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed 2 large eggs

preheat oven to 350 degrees F. place baking rack in middle of oven. Butter a 3-quart serving casserole. place crumbled cornbread in a large mixing bowl. put aside until needed. Sauté chorizo in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until it shows no traces of pink. remove with slotted spoon and add to cornbread. reserve. pour excess fat from skillet, leaving just enough in the pan to moisten the surface and keep things from sticking. Add onions and celery, season with a pinch of salt and sauté, stirring occasionally, until softened, 10-15 minutes. Add scallions and apples and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add garlic, cook 2 minutes, then scrape everything into bowl with cornbread and chorizo. whisk together broth and egg, then pour over dressing and gently toss. if mixture appears too dry, add more broth as needed. Transfer to baking dish and cover tightly with lid or buttered foil. Bake in upper third of oven 1 hour. remove cover and bake until top is golden, about 15 minutes more. (Recipe adapted from epicurious.com)

••• Winter squash and pumpkin are not only from the same genus, curcurbita, they’re also American in origin. Their wonderful keeping qualities endeared them to early New Mexicans. When dried, squash are reconstituted before using or added directly to soups and stews. Most canned pumpkin is actually made from winter squash, so don’t hesitate to step out when selecting a squash for your Thanksgiving pie; in fact, most winter squashes are more flavorful and sweeter than pumpkins. To prepare a whole pumpkin or winter squash for pie filling, cut the pumpkin in half and scrape out the seeds. Set the halves cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet or two, and bake at 350 degrees F until the flesh is quite soft. Scrape the pulp into a skillet and cook, along with any liquid from the baking sheets, over medium heat, stirring frequently, until it holds its shape on a spoon. The more water cooked out of the flesh, the more creamy and concentrated the filling will be. If the pulp is still stringy after stovetop cooking, use an immersion blender or food processor to break it up.

What’S availaBle locally green chile greens golden potatoes herbs buttercup squash salad greens pears blue goat cheese pumpkin or winter squash goat cheese heavy cream honey

turkey ancho chiles garlic golden apples apple juice or cider blue cornmeal eggs onions chorizo pecans carrots red chile chicken broth

Sourcing locally Sources for locally raised, organic pastured heritage turkey:

PumPkin or Winter SquaSh Pie With Pecan Praline and Goat cheeSe WhiPPed cream

Goat milk is produced locally by several dairies. Fresh goat cheese and wildflower honey are flavors that echo across centuries and cultures.

1-3/4 cup cooked pumpkin or winter squash (15-ounce can pumpkin may be substituted) 1/4 cup maple syrup 2 eggs 1 cup evaporated milk 1/2 cup hot milk 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup brown sugar, firmly packed 1/2 teaspoon salt 1-1/2 teaspoons cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon ginger 1/8 teaspoon cloves 1 unbaked pie shell 1 lightly beaten egg white Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. combine pumpkin, maple syrup, eggs and evaporated milk. Stir butter into hot milk. Whisk brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and cloves together. combine all three mixtures and beat well. Pour into an unbaked pastry shell that has been brushed with egg white. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees F and bake 35 minutes longer. cool. While pie is cooling, make praline topping.

Goat cheeSe WhiPPed cream

Praline toPPinG 3 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup maple syrup 1 cup chopped pecans 1/4 teaspoon salt melt butter, then add the other ingredients. Bring to boil and lower to a simmer for 5 minutes. cool, then pour over pie while topping is still warm. Spread to cover the pie, then let sit for 30 minutes until topping is totally cooled before cutting pie. Serve with Goat cheese Whipped cream.

1 cup chilled heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons honey 3 ounces fresh goat cheese, room temperature Whip cream with honey until honey is incorporated. add crumbled goat cheese and whip until soft peaks form. may be made an hour ahead of time.

••• red chile Gravy 1/2 cup unbleached white flour 2 cups water Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1-1/2 quarts turkey giblet broth (or substitute chicken broth) chopped neck meat and giblets (optional) 1-2 cups red chile sauce Special equipment: a quart glass jar with a tight-fitting lid remove turkey from roasting pan and put on a warmed platter. tent with foil. Pour drippings into a container and ladle off as much fat as possible. reserve. add flour and 2 cups water to the glass jar and shake up vigorously, until no lumps remain. Put the roasting pan over a burner (or two if possible) over low heat. add the reserved drippings to the pan. Strain the flour and water mixture into the pan. immediately begin whisking the flour and water mixture to incorporate it with the brown bits remaining in the pan. add some warm broth as soon as the mixture begins to thicken. let the gravy cook slowly, stirring and whisking almost constantly at a medium simmer, adding stock or broth from time to time as the gravy thickens. the gravy will continue to reduce and thicken as it cooks. When the gravy is the desired consistency, add red chile sauce to taste. Serve the gravy hot in a pitcher or gravy boat. leftover gravy is terrific poured over mashed potatoes and topped with grated cheese.

if you’re interested in a turkey from Pollo Real, contact them at polloreal@q.com or drop by their Santa fe farmers’ Market booth. the birds range in size from 8 to 20 pounds and are $7 a pound. they’ll also sell turkeys at the Santa fe farmers’ Market on Saturday, november 18 and tuesday, november 21 between 8 a.m. and noon. La Montanita Coop will begin taking orders for embudo Valley organic pastured turkeys the beginning of november, although reserving a turkey is not absolutely necessary. 505-984-2852. Talus Wind Ranch raises organic pastured turkeys in Galisteo. reach them through their website at www.taluswindranch.com. Delivery in both Galisteo and Santa fe. Wendy McGuire (aka the turkey lady) raises turkeys as well as geese and ducks at her Gallina del Sol farm in Stanley. the turkeys are sold out for this year but they have a few geese left. Call Wendy McGuire to reserve yours at 505-610-8326. Delivery in Santa fe.

Local farmers markets note that although some markets outside Santa fe may close before thanksgiving, pumpkins and squashes may be purchased ahead of time and stored until needed.

Santa Fe Farmers’ Markets

www.santafefarmersmarket.com. 505-983-4098

Farmers’ Market Pavilion

1607 Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe Street Saturdays and tuesdays 8 a.m.-1 p.m. (fall hours)

Outside Santa Fe

www.farmersmarketsnm.org. this site has a map of farmers’ markets around the state as well as more detailed information, including a harvest chart showing the season when items are available.

Los Alamos

lafm.org/fm or Cindy talamantes (505) 574-7674 Mesa Public library parking lot, Central and Bathtub Holiday markets in December, then winter market January-April.

2012-13 Winterlife

Light up your

HOLIDAYS MusEuM Of INtErNatIONal fOlK art 505.476.1200 • on Museum Hill New World Cuisine: the histories of Chocolate, Mate y Más Eat, drink and be thankful that the foods of the past are on the dinner plates of today.

PHOTO BY KiTTY LeaKen

MusEuM Of INDIaN arts & CulturE

NEW MEXICO hIstOry MusEuM/ palaCE Of thE GOvErNOrs

NEW MEXICO MusEuM Of art

505.476.1250 • on Museum Hill

505.476.5100 • on the Plaza

505.476.5072 • on the Plaza

Margarete Bagshaw: Breaking the rules

Illuminating the Word: the saint John’s Bible

Chromatic fusion: the art of fused Glass

a Native american artist goes her own way.

WINTERLIFE 2012-2013

a contemporary handwritten Bible created by a team of artists and calligraphers at a scriptorium in Wales.

art and technology combine to reveal Klaus Moje’s passion and respect for his medium.

SFCA

Cottons, Batiks, Orientals, Southwest Fabrics, Silks, Classes & Sewing Supplies

The Santa Fe Concert Association

Open 7 Days Mon.-Sat.,Thurs. Thurs.10-7 10-7 Sun. Open 7 Daysa aWeek: Week:10-5:30 10-5:30 Mon.-Sat., pm,pm, Sun. 1-5 1-5 pm pm We Are Here!

The Santa Fe Concert Association 2012-2013 Performance Schedule

3018-A Cielo Court Santa Fe, NM 87507 505-473-3747 www.santafequilting.com

Open Your Heart... Heal Your Body & Soul

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NOVEMBER Notes on Music - Debussy November 5, 2012

JANUARY Opera - Cinderella January 11-13, 2013

DECEMBER Chanticleer December 7, 2012

Louis Lortie, piano January 24, 2013 Notes on Music - Wagner January 29, 2013

The Romeros with Concerto Málaga December 10, 2012

FEBRUARY Gabriela Montero, piano February 10, 2013

Christmas Eve with the SFCA Orchestra and Emily Bear December 24, 2012 SHIRLEY REICHSTADT, Certified Energy Practitioner

505.954.1002 www.energyandlighthealings.com

Energy & Light Healings ©

Hilary Hahn, violin February 19, 2013

Sutton Foster, Broadway star December 27, 2012

MARCH Wynton Marsalis Lensic March 6, 2013

New Year’s Eve with the SFCA Orchestra & Harlem String Quartet December 31, 2012

Fiddler on the Roof March 10, 2013 The Pipes and Drums of the Black Watch March 12, 2013

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Tickets: 505.988.1234

The Santa Fe Concert Association 321 West San Francisco Street, Suite G Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 Phone: 505.984.8759 Fax: 505.820.0588

2012-2013 WINTERLIFE

NIGHT CRAWLERS

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Santa Fe has a reputation for being a sleepy little town that rolls up the streets by 9 p.m. And, to be honest, much of the local entertainment is geared toward those with an “early to bed” motto. But tucked into hidden corners of the City Different are a surprising number of venues where you can dance to your heart’s content or listen to world-class music. The siren’s call of The City Different is as potent for musicians as it is for other artists, creating an array of options for an evening out.

Intimate Spaces

these low-key environments are perfect for a night out with a date or good friends. Although some offer dance bands and full dinner menus, what sets these apart are cozy environments, good music and delicious tapas or lighter fare. • El Farol: 808 Canyon Road, 983-9912, or www.elfarolsf.com. El Farol does not just reflect Santa Fe style; it is set in an 18th-century Canyon Road home. The subdued orange walls are accented by the low, dark-stained viga ceiling, creating a warm atmosphere. The venue offers live entertainment seven nights a week, with all styles of music and dance — from Latin and salsa to rhythm and blues — and flamenco dinner shows on Saturdays. • El Mesón: 213 Washington Ave., 983-6756, or www.elmeson-santafe.com. This Spanish bistro serves flamenco and jazz several nights a week, as well as the chance to tango on Tuesdays. The bar is designed to resemble a Spanish courtyard, with a portal around the perimeter covered with a tiled “roof” sporting farolitos. A fresco of a Spanish village behind the stage and mayólica plates augment the decor. • Hotel Chimayo de Santa Fe’s Low ‘n Slow Lowrider Bar: 125 Washington Ave., 988-4900, or www.hotelchimayo.com. The lowrider decor, with its diamond-tuck upholstered seats, hubcaps and tables made from chromed chain-link steering wheels, sets this bar apart. Seating is largely at the bar or a long two-sided counter. Enjoy acoustic guitar and vocals on Saturdays and other live entertainment on Fridays. • Hotel Santa Fe’s Amaya Restaurant: 1501 Paseo de Peralta, 982-1200, or www. hotelsantafe.com. The Pueblo Revival style of this Picuris Pueblo-owned hotel is comfortable and inviting. Although entertainment at the Amaya restaurant is limited, an evening spent savoring the blend of indigenous and non-indigenous ingredients on the menu and Native American flute and classical guitar music by six-time Native American Music Award nominee Ronald Roybal is an unforgettable Santa Fe experience. Roybal performs one or two evenings a week. • La Casa Sena’s La Cantina: 125 E. Palace Ave., 988-9232, or www.lacasasena.com. It is easy to see why La Casa Sena is still popular nearly 20 years after it opened. The decor does not quite mesh with the architecture of this early 19th-century adobe home, with crystal chandeliers hanging from pine vigas, obtrusive artwork and a gray-green tint on the traditionally whitewashed walls. But once the nightly entertainment begins — especially when servers belt out Broadway musical tunes — that’s all quickly forgotten.

2012-13 Winterlife

• La Posada of Santa Fe’s Staab House: 330 E. Palace Ave., 986-0000, or www. laposadadesantafe.com/hotel. La Posada was constructed around the Abraham Staab home, built in 1882. The bar’s Victorian decor is congruent with its setting in the original house. Bright artwork by contemporary artists provides a nice contrast to the dark paneling on the walls. Many claim the ghost of Julia Staab still haunts the bar — as do many visiting celebrities. Live entertainment is featured five nights a week. • La Fonda on the Plaza, La Fiesta Lounge: 100 E. San Francisco St., 982-5511, or www.lafondasantafe.com. The ambiance of this historic hotel is part of the draw, with its classic John Gaw Meem architecture and furnishing that remains true to Mary Colter’s early 20th-century Southwest design. Lively entertainment ranging from Texas two-step, rock ’n’ roll, jazz and country set patrons’ feet tapping six nights a week. • Pranzo Italian Grill’s Geist Cabaret: 540 Montezuma Ave., 984-2645, or www. pranzosantafe.com. Pianist David Geist, who has been praised by the likes of Andrew Lloyd Webber and Stephen Sondheim, performs solo or with other performers several nights a week. Geist is game for anything from Cole Porter to Elvis Presley. The inviting cabaret atmosphere is enhanced by wood-framed windows overlooking the Railyard, antique-style light fixtures mounted on serpentine metal frames and patio tables covered with white tablecloths. Tabern a La • Taberna La Boca: 72 W. Marcy St., 982-3433, Bo ca or www.labocasf.com. A tapestry of an open can of sardines dominating one wall may or may not be to your taste, but a closer look at this Spanish-style tavern reveals a small, enjoyable space with tables for two, high ceilings of dark-stained wood and tile accents over the door and windows. Enjoy Spanishinfluence music two to three nights a week and frequent flamenco shows. • Vanessie: 427 W. Water St., 982-9966, or www.vanessiesanta fe.com. Classic Santa Fe-style architecture and stunning artwork make this one of Santa Fe’s most inviting venues. Pianist Doug Montgomery, who is described as “equally at home performing Chopin or singing show tunes,” performs five nights a week. The Bert Dalton Trio performs jazz on Thursdays, and other performers provide music ranging from rhythm and blues, soul, cabaret and “soulful” Americana.

Step it up

Santa fe also boasts its share of neighborhood bars and restaurants frequented by locals. Both the music and the atmosphere tend to be livelier in these venues, as well as more casual and relaxed. • Cowgirl Santa Fe: 319 S. Guadalupe St, 982-2565, or www.cowgirlsantafe.com. Cowgirl’s eclectic collection of old movie posters, cowgirl boots, ramilletes (paper garlands) stretched across the bar and horseshoe condiment holders creates an entertaining atmosphere even before the music starts. The dominance of dance bands among its nightly entertainment schedule makes this one of the best dance venues in the city. • Evangelo’s: 200 W. San Francisco St., 982-9014. Evangelo’s is best known for great entertainment and as one of the locations for the movie Crazy Heart. People either love or hate the edgy atmosphere of this dive bar, where owner/bartender Nick Klonis and his staff are as likely to offend patrons as to welcome them. The rhythm

Entertainers keep city’s pulse pumping well after dark story By Arin McKennA • photos By Kerry shercK

Sounds for small places

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Gig draws world-class musicians

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am Ca sJ nyon Road Blue

and blues, rock and soul upstairs draws an older crowd. The Underground appeals to a younger crowd with DJs, punkabilly and local and national groups. • The Palace Restaurant: 142 W. Palace Ave., 428-0690, or www.palacesantafe. com. Many patrons were pleased to see the Palace “restored to its Victorian splendor” after a brief stint as Señor Lucky’s at the Palace, complete with mechanical bull. The 19th-century saloon doors and chandeliers — from its incarnation as a gambling saloon run by La Doña Tules — are back in place, as well as the flocked wallpaper and walnut wainscoting. Bluegrass, rock and ‘80s music are featured Thursday through Saturday. • Rouge Cat: 101 W. Marcy St., 983-6603, or www.rougecat.com. Rouge Cat bills itself as an after dinner/after hours venue for disco and cocktails. The club furnishings — padded benches and contemporary E l ee art — are subdued and comfortable. The downstairs disco Faro tL l: T n a r one ( has a large dance floor complete with lighting and special left) and B effects. Entertainment includes DJs on weekends with karaoke Tuesdays and country music on Wednesdays. Check the club’s Facebook page for the current schedule. • Second Street Brewery at Second Street and at the Railyard: 1814 Second St., 982-3030, or 1607 Paseo De Peralta No. 10, 989-3278, www.secondstreetbrewery.com. Something is almost always happening at one or both of these restaurants. The focus is on roots music ranging from acoustic Open Mic Night to bluegrass and folk/Americana. The casual atmosphere attracts local families and friends, although the music may be too loud to hold an intimate conversation. • Tiny’s Restaurant and Lounge: 1015 Pen Road (corner of St. Francis Drive and Cerrillos Road), 983-9817, or www.tinyssantafe.com. Tiny’s could be a neighborhood bar/ restaurant in any town in the United States. It is one of the places where Santa Feans go to dance, with live entertainment Wednesday through Saturday featuring local bands and a karaoke night. With its local artwork, large decanter collection and down-to-earth decor, Tiny’s has a character all its own.

In the swing

With no bar, no kitchen, and just a 70-seat theater with refined acoustics, Gig Performance Space appeals to both musicians and listeners with a passion for music. Internationally renowned guitarist Bruce Dunlap, who opened the nonprofit venue in a renovated garage in 2005, calls it a “listening environment,” where patrons can hear music ranging from jazz to classical to folk and anything from polished performances to improvisational forays. Quality is Dunlap’s only criteria. “It’s an amazing venue in that you can see some of these world-class artists and you can sit three feet away from them,” he said. “There are things that happen in small rooms that just don’t happen in big halls. It’s rare that you find a place that just deals with good sound, good music.” Dunlap’s connections and Gig’s environment attract dedicated musicians from all over. “Musicians are looking for a respectful environment where all that matters is the music,” Dunlap said. “It’s so funny when people call you from France and say they want to play at your garage.” Gig has performances two to three nights a week, advertised through its website calendar, www.gigsantafe.com. Dunlap recommends signing up for email notification to stay informed about “flash gigs” — spontaneous performances booked to accommodate musicians passing through town. Gig is located at 1808 Second St., Suite H. Donations range from $10 to $35 at the door and usually average $15. Cash and local checks only. — Arin McKennA

Santa fe also offers dance options for those who favor folk, swing or other classic styles.

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• Odd Fellows Hall: 1125 Cerrillos Road, www.ioofsfnm.org. The Odd Fellows Hall is booked almost nightly by groups offering various dance styles, including international folk dance and Israeli folk dance. Other options include contra dance with the New Mexico Folk Music & Dance Society (www.folkmads.org), swing with the ABQ Dance Crew (www.meetup.com/abqdance) and salsa (www. santarueda.com). • Dance Station: 901 W. Alameda St. 989-9788, or www.dancestationusa.com. Dance Station serves Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico with group and private an ta an lessons in all of the partner dances, including ballroom, Latin, D Fe Inte olk swing, tango and country. rnational F • Santa Fe Tango schedules tango lessons and dances for beginning to advanced dancers at a variety of locations, www.santafetango.org. It’s fairly standard for venues to charge a small cover when bands or DJs are scheduled. Call ahead or find details in Pasatiempo, The Santa Fe New Mexican’s weekly magazine of arts, entertainment and culture that publishes every Friday.

Gig

Perform nce Space a

2012-13 Winterlife

Santa Fe Symphony’s Messiah apt and inspired

www.insightfoto.com

By Craig Smith The holiday season is graced by many annual performances, and each performing arts genre has a favorite work to mount. Dance companies weigh in with the Nutcracker, while theater companies often put on a version of A Christmas Carol. Opera companies have a ready work in Amahl and the Night Visitors, while choirs large and small have plenty of carols and popular songs to choose from for their concerts. Both big symphony orchestras and smaller orchestral ensembles have their own guaranteed choice — George Frideric Handel’s ever-popular oratorio Messiah. The work has been a favorite ever since its first performance on April 13, 1742, in Dublin, Ireland. While Messiah premiered during the Lent-Easter season and has since become a Christmastide favorite because its first part deals with Christ’s birth, Handel himself considered the work to be performable at any time. Messiah’s three parts each portray a portion of Christ’s life on Earth — his Incarnation, his Passion and his Resurrection. Given how moving the piece is in performance, it’s interesting to remember that the texts were written by a thoroughly self-satisfied clergyman, Charles Jennens, who was — to put it charitably — greatly in love with his own dramatic abilities. Nonetheless, the final libretto, which draws from both the Old and New Testaments, is both apt and inspired. (Handel did polish some of the texts before setting them to music.) The Dublin Journal, in an article written after the premiere performance, said the text was composed of “the most elevated, majestick and moving Words.” Not that Handel was left out: The Journal also said, “Words were wanting to express the exquisite Delight it afforded to the admiring crouded Audience.” The Santa Fe Symphony presents Messiah this year at 4 p.m. Sunday, November 18, in the Lensic Performing Arts Center, preceded by a 3 p.m. pre-concert talk. Tom Hall guest conducts, and the guest soloists are soprano Devon Guthrie, mezzo-soprano Renee Tatum, tenor Gregory Warren and bass Alan Dunbar. All are former Santa Fe Opera apprentices returning here for the concert. The Santa Fe Symphony Chorus will also take part in the work’s many and important choruses. This will be the symphony’s 17th airing of the piece, said founder and general director Greg Heltman. The group first performed it in 1995, skipped 1996, and have since 1997 done it annually.

2012-13 Winterlife

If you go Tickets to the symphony’s Messiah range from $20 to $70, with senior and youth discounts; call Tickets Santa Fe at 505 988-1234 or the symphony box office at 505-983-1414. Lensic is at 211 West San Francisco Street.

“I think the work is a magnificent example of word painting,” Heltman said, “the dramatic portrayal of the text in music, and every time we perform it, it grabs me. How can I describe that feeling? I’m constantly astounded by the genius of the composition and dramatic interpretation.” Handel was a resourceful composer and never worried about borrowing a theme from another composer or even himself: In Messiah, the chorus “For Unto Us a Child is Born” was originally an Italian love duet titled “No, I Will Not Trust You, Blind Love.” He also would cut or transpose or rearrange an aria for a specific singer or add or subtract pieces depending on the forces available to him. That gives contemporary mounters of the piece many options, Heltman pointed out. But, he added, a full performance can take more than three hours, and, “I think our audience for the symphony is accustomed to the two-hour time frame.” That means some judicious cuts. Handel was a reverent man, but he also never hesitated to combine music making and money, using the one to accumulate the other. After all, he was a freelance composer, performer and impresario, with no one to look after his needs but himself. Born in Halle, Germany, his career was long, busy and often full of turmoil, but he nonetheless ended his days as a solid citizen and naturalized Englishman. In fact, Handel was not only famed and, by some, feared, but he was also loved. When he died, the journals of the day printed death notices that breathe an air of real sincerity despite their formally ornate language. He was mourned by those he remembered in his will but also by many friends in music and other professions. By his death, he had attained such national importance that his testamentary wish that he be buried in Westminster Abbey — an audacious sort of thing for a private citizen — was met with nothing but approval.

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2012-2013 WINTERLIFE

2012-13 Winterlife

Preparation is key to staying safe on the state’s wintry roads story By Diana Del Mauro illustration By williaM rotsaert

If you’re driving through New Mexico this season, you may want to upgrade the winter kit you keep in your trunk — even if you plan to stick to the main highways. Cell phone signals can be intermittent through the mountains and on lower-altitude roads as well. Global positioning systems can get hopelessly confused, even on the outskirts of well-traveled Santa Fe. Highways can be darker and more desolate than you’ve experienced elsewhere. Snowplows can be in short supply. Towns can be far apart and sparsely populated, and they can shut down early — gas stations included. These are conditions you may never have considered possible in the 21st century. Last year, a Texas family planning to go skiing in Northern New Mexico got buried in a giant snowdrift on U.S. 56 near Springer. Luckily, they had food, water and a cell phone that picked up a signal. They still had to spend two days in their GMC Yukon before rescue crews could push away 4 feet of snow and ice to retrieve the mother, father and 5-year-old daughter.

Rule No. 1 Good planning can help you avoid or survive dangerous

situations. • Carry a current paper map of the area in which you are traveling; look for a specialized road map if you’re traveling extensively through Indian Country — then check GPS suggestions against the maps. • Talk to locals before you venture off the beaten path. • Tell a friend or relative where you are headed and when you plan to be back. • Make realistic plans. If the weather report is ominous or you don’t have the right vehicle, don’t risk the trip. Even in town, some residential areas are unpaved and require four-wheel drive or at least plenty of clearance space under your vehicle. In addition, given the rugged, mountainous topography of Northern New Mexico, it’s easy to underestimate how long a trip will take.

Rule No. 2 Fill up on gas often, keeping three-fourths of a tank most of the time. For some trips, this might require extra planning so you hit the gas stations at appropriate intervals. Rule No. 3 Have a backup plan in mind. Technology may not be there to save you. Suppose it is no longer safe to drive and you’re in unfamiliar territory. How would you survive for a day or perhaps longer? If you run into car trouble or a blizzard, be prepared to wait it out until daylight or until the storm passes. If snowdrifts are too high, days could pass before help arrives. Consider these tips based on the New Mexico Family Emergency Preparedness Guide: • Pull over in a safe location and set your hazard lights to flash. Hang a distress flag from the radio antenna. • For 10 minutes each hour, run the engine and heater. Keep the exhaust pipe free of snow and crack a window. • Exercise lightly, add layers of clothing and huddle together to stay warm. • Take turns sleeping. • Conserve your car’s battery (avoid using headlights and interior lights).

New Mexico winter car checklist

Everyone’s needs vary, but here’s a list of items to get you thinking. David England, an inspector and investigator with the City of Santa Fe Fire Department, provided valuable contributions to this list based on what has helped him survive through New Mexico’s winter season.

Essentials

Current paper maps of the area Emergency contacts on paper Health and auto insurance cards First aid kit Hand sanitizer and wipes Cell phone charger for the car Nonperishable survival food, hard candies and bottled water for two days Medications that you cannot skip for two days A reflective distress flag or “Send Help” windshield sign Collapsible avalanche or snow shovel, rags, deicer, kitty litter to throw under wheels in icy conditions Sleeping bags or fleece blankets Hats, goatskin or leather gloves, fleece or wool mittens, wool or polyester socks and boots Coins and cash Light-emitting diode (LED) battery-powered flashlight Toilet paper, feminine supplies and tissues Empty containers to hold snow (if you run out of drinking water) or human waste Battery charger Tire inflater Jumper cables Tire cables (instead of hard-to-handle chains)

Nice to have

Brightly colored drop cloth Reflective clothing or reflective tape Trash bags Candles, matches and metal cans (provides heat but sucks up oxygen; must crack window) A thermos of hot water Sunglasses and sunscreen Playing cards Books Survival guide and emergency medicine guide

• Spread a bright-colored cloth over the snow to attract the attention of rescue teams in rural or wilderness areas. • Stay in your car with the seatbelt on, waiting for help to come to you. If you must walk outside, dress in layers and a reflective outer layer; wear sturdy, snow-repellent boots; carry cash, a credit card, your health insurance card, your auto insurance card and emergency contact information on paper.

Rule No. 4 Beware of winter health concerns. Know the signs of

frostbite and hypothermia. Carefully store and handle poisons that go with the season: Antifreeze can be deadly for children and pets.

2012-13 Winterlife

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Skating on Familiar Ice

By Kay Lockridge

Club performs film favorites at Santa Fe rink

Joel and Annisa Berendzen

he Santa Fe Skating Club “goes Hollywood” when it presents “Let’s Go to the Movies” at the Genoveva Chavez Community Center ice rink on the second weekend in December. The annual ice skating show at Northern New Mexico’s only Olympic ice skating rink delights children and adults with a family-oriented program featuring up to 50 youth and adult skaters. “This show highlights music from, or related to, popular movies,” said Tammy Berendzen, president of the skating club and show chairwoman. “It will begin with a gala opening number involving more than 20 skaters skating to music from the James Bond/007 movies, and the entire

Ayaha Chen, 2012 Southwestern Region Intermediate Ladies Bronze Medalist

2012-13 Winterlife

show will be bracketed by the eminently recognizable theme music from Austin Powers.” Mandy Edwards, who shares the post of the show’s artistic director with her twin sister, Megan, noted that the “City Different has outstanding talent in all age categories, from beginners to competitive skaters. It will be both a beautiful and fun show to watch. Families, especially, will enjoy the diversity of skaters and music,” Edwards said. Colorful costumes will be provided to the skaters for the gala opening number, while those performing solos, duets and small-group numbers will provide their own. Additional skaters will be drawn from the Desert Ice Figure Skating Club of Santa Fe. In addition to the gala opening number, highlights include duets by father-daughter and mother-son teams. Joel Berendzen, 51, an engineer at the Los Alamos National Laboratory, will skate with his 5-year-old daughter, Annisa, to the theme from Cinderella by Steven Curtis Jackman. Berendzen began skating when Annisa started skating lessons at 18 months. “It gave me a chance to spend quality time with my daughter, and it’s a wonderful departure from my job at the labs,” he said. “Chamber music used to be my diversion; now, it’s ice skating yearround on this wonderful rink.” “I love to skate with my daddy,” his daughter said enthusiastically. The dance selection will be their take on the classic movie. The mother and son team of Laurel (53) and Michael (22) Gray will perform “We’re a Couple of Swells.” This number was memorably danced by Judy Garland and Fred Astaire and choreographed by Astaire in Easter Parade. Shayna Moellenberg, a member of the Sun Valley Skating Club in Idaho, is this year’s special guest skater. Moellenberg, 18, is the 2012 Northwest Pacific Region Senior Ladies Silver Medalist; she will skate to “I Dreamed a Dream” from the movie Les Misérables. (Moellenberg is the niece of Santa Fe skating coach Lisa Schub, who choreographs a number from The Polar Express performed by members of the Learn-to-Skate

Award winning skater Mark Tamoglia

program at the community center, which offers skating instruction to toddlers, teens and adults. Santa Fe’s own award-winning 11-year-old skater JunHong Chen is the featured skater for the 2012 show. The young man splits his training between the community center and the Colorado Springs World Arena and is the 2012 Junior National Juvenile Boys Bronze Medalist. His sister, Ayaha, also appears in the show. She is the 2012 Southwestern Region Intermediate Ladies Bronze Medalist. Other award-winning skaters who will perform in “Let’s Go to the Movies” include Mark Tamoglia, who took a gold and two silver medals at the 2012 U.S. Adults Figure Skating Championships in Illinois last spring. Tamoglia does a solo dance to Frank Sinatra’s “That’s Life,” which was featured in the 1993 movie A Bronx Tale. Other popular movie music featured in the 90-minute show includes a duet by Allie Girmus and Abby Wilson to “Singing in the Rain”; a solo by Wilson to Katy Perry’s “Firework” from Madagascar 3; a starlight waltz by Judy Pearson-Wright and Charles Wright to the “Potter Waltz” from Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire; and a solo by Rachel Ruckman to “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend.” The latter, as sung by Marilyn Monroe, was the highlight of the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

IF YOU GO “Let’s Go to the Movies,” the annual holiday ice skating show presented by the Santa fe Skating Club Genoveva Chavez Community Center 3221 rodeo road Saturday, December 8, at 4 p.m. and Sunday, December 9, at 1 p.m. tickets available now at the community center and at the door before the performances $10 ages 12 and older; $6 ages 2-11; no charge under 2 for information call 424-4986 or visit www. chavezcenter.com or www.santafeskatingclub.org.

Jun-Hong Chen, 2012 Junior National Juvenile Boys Bronze Medalist

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zip line that sends riders whooshing by trees and mountain boulders, a global positioning satellite system that monitors the whereabouts of younger skiers, extended tubing areas and a renovated and expanded ski lodge are only a few of the many features Northern New Mexico ski resorts have added to their facilities this year.

TAOS SKI VALLEY

SKI SANTA FE Last season La Casa Lodge sat as a mere shell still undergoing major renovations at the base of Ski Santa Fe. Now the 12,000-square-foot building expansion offers skiers and snowboarders, among other things, additional rental and food services, said Debbi Owen, communications director for Ski Santa Fe and Sandia resorts. The sports shop has also been expanded. The second level is home to an extensive food court, including a grill, local specialties, a pizza and pasta bar, a deli and an espresso coffee bar. The dining area offers seating for 650 people, Owen said. “The new La Casa Lodge will offer unparalleled service to our skiers and snowboarders,” she added. For more information about the lodge, visit www.skisantafe.com.

At Taos Ski Valley, additions and improvements aim to make things easier for young beginners and families and getting folks to and from the slopes. “We are just now installing a new quad lift in the beginners’ area,” said marketing director Adriana Blake. “It will be up and running when the season starts.” Crews also cut a new beginners’ hill. “Our ski school got bigger so we needed more room,” Blake said. In addition, the resort will be expanding its hours for tubing. Instead of 5 to 7 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, tubing is allowed from 2 to 6 p.m. on those days. Tubing lanes will be longer and there will be more of them. “We are trying to open ourselves up to a bigger market,” Blake said. “There’s never been a big demand for day tubing in the past, but lots of resorts are adding them.” Taos is adding round-trip shuttle services between Albuquerque’s Sunport and the Santa Fe Municipal Airport and the ski slopes. The cost will be $70 per person round trip. “A lot of guests were complaining that they would rent a car at the airport and then just park it up here,” Baker said. “People were kind of irritated by that.” More information on the shuttle and the other services is available on the resort’s Web page, www.skitaos.org.

Winter

Upgrades, expansions give ski resorts a new look 38

2012-13 Winterlife

ANGEL FIRE A zip line that began offering rides 2,400 feet above the forest floor in July will also be operating this winter at the Angel Fire Resort. It’s only one of many new features for wintertime guests at the resort situated east of Taos. “At 25 stories above the forest floor, we’ll offer winter visitors the four-segment high-flying, face-numbing experience to add to their roster of skiing, boarding, Nordic cross-country and tubing,” said Angel Fire spokeswoman Krysty Ronchetti. On a zip-line ride, gravity pulls riders through the air on cables stretched between platforms. Participants sit in harnesses attached to the cables by trolleys. Also new this season at Angel Fire, the resort’s ski and boarding schools have joined with Flaik, a GPS-alpine guest-tracking system that enables ski instructors to determine the location of individual children. Images are captured many times per second to allow the analysis of locations and turn shapes. “This system ensures an unprecedented level of security for children, parents and resort instructors and officials,” Ronchetti said. Children will be given an electronic armband for all lift-serviced lessons. In addition, parents and children can view their runs, vertical feet skied and other stats online. Ronchetti said the resort will open two improved freestyle parks redesigned for different levels of freestyle skills — from beginners learning to ride rails or hit jumps to masters. The resort also plans to open a new hiking-access-only black diamond trail called C-4 located in what had been out-of-bounds territory north of the ski mountain. Ranchetti said C-4 is a challenge for even an expert skier. Angel Fire has opened a new Nordic center. The cross-country loops will wind skiers along rolling, scenic canyons of native trees, starting at 8,400 feet. The terrain is varying, offering both light and challenging workouts. The loops offer both skate and classic cross-country skiing. A single-day trail pass will cost $12. Angel Fire also boasts New Mexico’s only night skiing on the lighted lower bunny slope. In the spirit of the Mayan calendar, Angel Fire is offering an End of Days Pass. If you trust that you and the ski resort will still be here after Dec. 21 (the last day some say is on the ancient Mayan calendar), you can buy a pass that will be good for this winter, next summer and next winter. The cost is $399 if purchased by Oct. 31. The End of Days pass, which goes up to $499 on Nov. 1, must be purchased by Dec. 21. For details on the resort’s many changes and additions, visit its website at www.angelfireresort.com.

PAJARITO MOUNTAIN Pajarito Mountain Ski Area near Los Alamos, still recovering from the 2010 Las Conchas wildfire, expects to reopen two chairlifts damaged in the blaze. “With a little bit of luck and a lot of hard work, they should be ready for this ski season,” said general manager Tom Long. Long said the resort’s top terminal had been destroyed in the fire and was still undergoing electrical work. The lift cable has been replaced. Crews planted 2,000 trees to restore burned areas. “We are hopeful that Mother Nature will kick in,” he said. More information about Pajarito restorations can be found on the resort’s Web page, www.skipajarito.com.

RED RIVER Red River Ski Area is stepping up its snowmaking abilities by adding two snow guns. It’s also adding evening snowcat mountain-groomer tours of the mountain Monday through Thursday and more often during holiday weekends. The two-hour tours in the snowcat, which can hold 15 people, will include dinner at the summit restaurant, said Wesley Hayden, guest services supervisor. Renovations have been made to the main chalet and guest lodge at the base, and guests will be able to rent equipment through the resort’s website, www.Redriverskiarea.com.

SIPAPU At Sipapu, spokeswoman Stacey Grasier said the resort southeast of Taos has added several snow guns as well as pipelines and access points to be able to cover more of the mountain with man-made snow. Grasier noted that Sipapu is the first regional ski area to open — on Nov. 17 — and “we wanted more terrain those early days and weeks when we are the only ski area open.” Guests will notice the biggest difference in the increased number of gladed and tree skiing areas, she said, especially on the steeper parts of the upper mountain in untracked sections used most frequently by more advanced skiers. For more information, visit www.sipapunm.com.

Wardrobe

By Dennis J. Carroll

Ski Santa Fe photoS by LuiS SÁnchez Saturno

2012-13 Winterlife

ski Recreation Areas

taos ski Valley

El Prado 68

Taos Pueblo Taos

Cristo Mountains

Cr i sto M ountains

Arroyo Seco

Shady Brook

From Taos

Agua Fria

Angel Fire Valle Escondido 434 Black Lake

e ng

2012-13 Winterlife

B143

Arroyo Hondo

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Santa Fe

522

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475

www.angelfireresort.com 800-633-7463 Snow report: 800-633-7463 Scheduled season: Dec. 14 to March 24 Distance from Santa Fe: 94 miles Travel time: Two hours Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and two surface lifts servicing 74 downhill trails (24 percent expert, 50 percent intermediate, 26 percent beginner) and groomed Nordic trails. Lift tickets: Adult ages 18-69 full day $66, half day $49; teens 13-17 full day $56, half day $42; juniors 7-12 full day $46, half day $36; free for children age 6 and under and seniors 70 and older. Night lift ticket $24. Value packages and military and other discounts are available. Elevation: 8,600 feet at base; 10,677 feet at summit; 2,077-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 210 inches, snow making on 62 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program, Nordic center, two terrain parks, tubing hill, sledding, snowshoeing and winter zip line. Child care: Day-care center and children’s ski school. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Take U.S. 64 east to N.M. 434, and follow this south to the resort.

Tesuque

Angel Fire Resort

Taos Ski Valley

Santa Fe Ski Basin

San gre d e Cris

84 285

to Mount ains

Pojoaque

www.skisantafe.com 505-982-4429 Snow report: 505-983-9155 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 7 Distance from Santa Fe: 16 miles Travel time: 20 minutes Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and two conveyor lifts servicing 77 trails (40 percent expert, 40 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Elevation: 10,350 feet at base; 12,075 feet at summit; 1,725-foot vertical drop. Lift tickets: Adult, ages 21-61 full day $66, half-day $50; teens 13-20 full or half day $50; children 12 and under and seniors 62-71, full or half day $46; free for children under 46 inches tall and seniors 72 years and older. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available. Snow: Average annual snowfall 225 inches, snow making on 50 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program and freestyle fun park. Child care: Chipmunk Corner Children’s Center day care and snow-sport school, Children’s Adventure Land. Directions from Santa Fe: Take Washington Avenue to Artist Road and turn right. Artist Road becomes Hyde Park Road; follow it to the top of the mountain.

www.skitaos.org 800-347-7414 Snowboards now permitted. Snow report: 575-776-2291 Ext. 2202 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 7 (Nov. 22-Dec. 15 Thursday through Sunday) Distance from Santa Fe: 72 miles Travel time: Two hours Lifts and runs: 11 chairlifts and three surface lifts servicing 113 trails (51 percent advanced, 25 percent intermediate, 24 percent beginner). Elevation: 9,207 feet at base; 11,819 feet at summit; 12,481 feet with a hike to Kachina Peak; 2,612-foot vertical drop (lift-served). Lift tickets: Adult full day $75, half day $62; teens 13-17 full day $65, half day $47; children 7-12 $45, half day $37; seniors 65-79, $65 for full day, $47 half day; free for children ages 6 and under (with a paying adult) and those 80 and older; seniors 70 to 79 qualify for a $185 pass for the season. Annual passes, Taos Card and other discounts available. Prices reduced Nov. 22-Dec. 14 and April 1-7. Snow: Average annual snowfall 305 inches, snow making on all beginner and intermediate slopes. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program and terrain park. Child care: Kinderkafig Children’s Center day care and ski and ride school. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 north through Taos. Take N.M. 150 to Taos Ski Valley.

Sa ng re

Ski Santa Fe

angel fire resort

Taos Ski Valley

San gre de

ski santa fe

Angel Fire Black Lake 120

Courtesy Photos

eV idal

Espa単ola FR-601

Pajarito Ski Area CR-1

White Rock

Eagle Nest Eagle Nest Lake

502

38 Bandelier National Monument

RIO

84 285

Red River Ski Area

www.redriverskiarea.com 575-754-2223 Snow report: 575-754-2223 Scheduled season: Nov. 21 to March 24 Distance from Santa Fe: 110 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Lifts and runs: Three triple chairs, two doubles and two surface lifts servicing 57 trails (30 percent advanced, 38 percent intermediate, 32 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adult full day $65, half day $50; teens 13-19 full day $59, half day $45; juniors 4-12 full day $49, half day $36; seniors 65-69 full day $49, half day $36; free for children age 3 and under and seniors 70 and older. Group rates for 20 or more skiers and other discounts available. Discounts and specials available. For details, call 575-754-2223 or visit www.redriverskiarea.com. Elevation: 8,750 feet at base; 10,350 feet at summit; 1,600-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 215 inches, snow making on 85 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurants. Child care: Day-care center. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Espa単ola, then N.M. 522 north to Taos. Proceed to N.M. 38 east to Questa. Turn right onto Pioneer Road and continue to Red River.

522 Questa

Pojoaque

Los Alamos

AN DE

Wheeler Peak Village

578

Va ll

Red River

Jemez M ountains

From Taos

Enchanted Forest

Tao s

Questa

Mountains

522

www.skipajarito.com 505-662-5725 Snow report: 505-662-5725 Scheduled season: Dec. 21 to March 31 Distance from Santa Fe: 45 miles Estimated travel time: One hour Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and one surface lift servicing 40 trails (40 percent expert, 40 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adult full day $59, half day $46; teens 13-17 full day $49, half day $35; children 7-12 $35, half day $30; seniors 65-74 $49, half day $35; free for children age 6 and under and seniors 75 and older. Season passes and other discounts are available. Elevation: 9,031 feet at base; 10,441 at summit; 1,200-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 125 inches. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, cafe, Adaptive Ski Program, accessible to Nordic trails, terrain park. Child care: None Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos. Follow signs to the ski area.

From Taos

Red River Ski Area Red River

578

Wheeler Peak Village

eV idal

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area

Va ll

Enchanted Forest Cross Country and Snowshoe Area

www.enchantedforestxc.com 575-754-6112 Snow report: 575-754-6112 Scheduled season: Mid-November to late March Distance from Santa Fe: 120 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Trails: Up to 33 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails (5 percent expert, 20 percent advanced, 50 percent intermediate, 25 percent beginner), plus 18 kilometers for snowshoeing and 5 kilometers where dogs are allowed. Trail passes: Adults, $16; seniors 62-69 $13; 70 and over free; teenagers 13-17 $13; children 7-12 $8. No charge for 6 and under. Three-day-plus discounts available. Elevation: 9,600 feet at base; 10,040 at summit; 400-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 240 inches, no snow making. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, snack bar and warming hut, rental yurt, midway day lodge. Child care: None. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Espa単ola, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Proceed north on N.M. 522 to Questa and turn onto N.M. 38 heading east to Enchanted Forest, three miles east of Red River.

Pajarito ski area

Mountains

Pajarito ski area

Tao s

enchanted forest

Eagle Nest Eagle Nest Lake

2012-13 Winterlife

ski Recreation Areas (continued)

SnoWmaking at Sipapu Ski reSort

Sipapu Ski Resort

www.sipapunm.com 800-587-2240 Snow report: 800-587-2240 Scheduled season: Nov. 17-April 14 Distance from Santa Fe: 60 miles Travel time: 90 minutes Lifts and runs: Two triple chairlifts, two platter lifts and one Magic Carpet lift servicing 41 trails (20 percent beginner, 40 percent intermediate, 25 percent advanced and 15 percent expert). Lift tickets: Adult full day $44, half day $33; teens 13-20 full day $37, half day $28; juniors 7-12 full day $29, half day $22; free for children age 6 and under, fourthgraders, 40-year-olds, 60-year-olds and seniors over 70; seniors 61-69 full day $29, half day $22. Value packages and other discounts are available. Elevation: 8,200 feet at base; 9,255 at summit; 1,055-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 190 inches, snow making on 70 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants and three terrain parks. Child care: None. Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ski school. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to EspaĂąola, then N.M. 68 to N.M. 75 and then N.M. 518 south five miles to Sipapu.

518

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www.sandiapeak.com 505-242-9052 Snow report: 505-857-8977 Scheduled season: Dec. 15-March 17 Distance from Santa Fe: 66 miles Travel time: One hour Lifts and runs: Four chairlifts, one surface lift and one tramway servicing 30 trails (10 percent expert, 55 percent intermediate, 35 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adult full day $50, half day $35; seniors 62-71 and children 6-12 full day $40, half day $30. Free for seniors 72 and older and children under 46 inches tall in ski boots. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available. Elevation: 8,678 feet at base; summit, 10,376 feet; 1,700foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 125 inches, snow making on 15 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurants, terrain park. Child care: No day care. Cubby Bear Corner ski school for ages 4 to 6. Directions from Santa Fe: To reach the tramway, take Interstate 25 south to Albuquerque, exit onto Tramway road and drive six miles. To reach the base lodge (beginner and intermediate trails), take N.M. 14 south toward Cedar Crest and turn onto N.M. 536.

Dixon

Trampas

Truchas angel fire reSort

2012-13 Winterlife

From Carrizozo

380

Nogal

Ski Apache

Black Lake

Velarde From U.S. 84/285

Sipapu Ski Area

Sangr ed Mou e Crist ntain o s

Embudo

Pilar

Ski Apache

www.skiapache.com 575-464-3600 Snow report: 575-464-1234 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving to Easter weekend. Distance from Santa Fe: 200 miles Travel time: Four and a half hours Lifts and runs: One gondola, eight chairlifts and one surface lift servicing 55 trails (45 percent expert, 35 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adults $55, half day $39; children 12 and under $35, half day $26; teens 13-17 $46, half day $34; free for seniors 70 and older. Season passes and discounts available. Elevation: 9,600 feet at base; 12,003 at summit; 1,800-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 180 inches, snow making on 15 trails including upper mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurant and terrain park. Child care: Day care available by reservation in Ruidoso; Kiddie Korral lessons for ages 4 to 6. Directions from Santa Fe: Take I-25 south 143 miles, then U.S. 380 east toward Carrizozo for 74 miles. Turn right onto N.M. 37, then right onto N.M. 48, then left onto Gavilan Road (which becomes Gavilan Canyon Road). Turn left onto Eagle Creek Road, then left onto Eagle Creek Court.

Sierr a Blanca

Sandia Peak

Angus 532

Capitan

Fort 48 Stanton B Rio

oni

Alto Ruidoso

220

Courtesy Photos

RENTALS AND REPAIRS Whether you decide to buy or rent, the following ski shops can get you outfitted for the slopes. Also listed are repair shops for tune-ups. ALPINE SPORTS www.alpinesports-santafe.com Repair shop for downhill, cross-country skis and snowboards and snowshoes. Rents and sells skis, snowboards, Nordic equipment and snowshoes. 121 Sandoval St. 505-983-5155

VieW from lift at angel fire resort

Valles Caldera National Preserve

www.vallescaldera.gov 505-428-7732 and 866-382-5537 Snow report and Weatherline: 505-661-3333 Scheduled season: Dec. 26 to March 28 Distance from Santa Fe: 65 miles Travel time: One hour and 15 minutes Trails: 37 miles of cross-country and snowshoeing trails, including a groomed main trail that’s about a 45-minute loop on the Valle Grande (5 percent expert, 10 percent advanced, 65 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Free, an ungroomed Coyote Call trail on the south side of N.M. 4. About 11,300 acres are available for day use, mostly ungroomed. The no-fee area encompasses about 500 acres. Trail passes: Adults $10; children 4-15 $8; seniors 62 and older $8; free under 4. Five-day passes are available. Elevation: 8,500 feet Facilities: Gift shop, rentals Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos. Take N.M. 4 west into the Jemez Mountains. The preserve entrance is on the north side of the road near mile marker 39.

COTTAM’S SKI RENTALS www.Cottamsskishops.com Repair shop and rentals, downhill skis, snowboards, cross-country gear, snowshoes, snowblades. Hyde Memorial State Park on Hyde Park Road, 505-982-0495; and in Taos at 207-A Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575-758-2822; and Taos Ski Valley, 101 Sutton Place, 575-776-8719. NEW MEXICO BIKE N’ SPORT www.nmbikensport.com Snowshoes and cross-country ski rentals. 524-C Cordova Road 505-820-0809 SANTA FE MOUNTAIN SPORTS www.santafemountainsports.com Repair shop and sales and rentals for downhill skis, snowboards, snowshoes and cross-country skis. 1221 Flagman Way 505-988-3337 SKI TECH SKI RENTALS www.skitechsantafe.com Repair shop, downhill skis and snowboards and snowshoes, clothing and helmets. 905 St. Francis Drive 505-983-5512

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2012-13 Winterlife

Smooth Operators

rlando Mendonca says he has “one of the coolest jobs” in Santa Fe. The 23-year-old is one of the halfdozen employees who get to operate the Zamboni or ice resurfacer at the Genoveva Chavez Community Center’s ice rink. Like the other rink employees, Mendonca’s happiest when he’s skating or playing hockey. As a child, Mendonca watched in awe as the community center at 3221 Rodeo Road rose across the arroyo from his home. One of his neighbors, Dustin Rael, invited Mendonca to check out the ice rink. He was quickly hooked and became an avid hockey player. As a youngster, he watched the Zamboni operators refresh the ice. There are several brands of ice resurfacers, but the Zamboni brand, named after the man who invented it in 1949, Frank J. Zamboni, was the first. While skaters bemoan the downtime required for resurfacing, the machine itself fascinates spectators. References to the Zamboni in the Peanuts comic strip added to its mystique when Charlie Brown, the central character, said, “There are three things in life that people like to stare at: a flowing steam, a crackling fire and a Zamboni clearing the ice.”

Ice, Ice Baby

Seeing the Zamboni is actually just the tip of the whole ice-making process. Michael J. Hering, ice arena technician, said few people know what goes into maintaining the ice at the GCCC rink. Hering, a former director of the School for Advanced Research, studied “the science of ice” for

four years and is a certified ice technician who loves skating. When the GCCC ice rink first opened, Hering pitched in as a volunteer. He enjoyed returning to his boyhood love of skating, and when an opportunity to work there arose he was quick to take the opportunity to learn how to maintain the ice. While few get to see behind the scenes, Hering does lead school groups back to the separate refrigeration room where temperature adjustments are made on the glycol (refrigerant) and hot water. “People are surprised that it takes very hot water [about 140 degrees Fahrenheit] to make ice,” he said. While it might seem that all one needs to do is push buttons, keeping the temperatures right is a precise science. He takes temperature readings of the ice surface and also checks rink humidity levels to make adjustments. A reverse-osmosis water treatment plant contributes to the procedure. “The city water has a high mineral count — water with fluoride and chloride, too. It’s great for most purposes but not too good for making ice,” Hering said. “Once treated, the water we have is 99 percent pure and freezes much better.” During the resurfacing, the Zamboni’s front blade shaves the surface of the ice; then a large horizontal screw scoops the shavings and pushes them into a “snow” tank. Water flows from a wash water tank to a squeegee-type apparatus, which smoothes the ice. Dirty water is filtered and returned to the tank. Then clean, hot water is spread on the ice by what resembles a large towel.

COOL FACTS Michael Hering loves sharing facts about the rink and the Zamboni. Here are just a few: • The rink is 200 feet long and 80 feet wide (standard for National Hockey League hockey). • 9 mph is the fastest recommended speed that the Zamboni can travel on the ice. • When the Zamboni is full of water or ice shavings (called “snow”), it weighs about 6-1/2 tons. • The Zamboni is driven about 3/4 of a mile for each resurfacing at the center. On an average day, it travels about 7.3 miles — about the distance from the center to the Plaza. • Since it’s been in use at the center, the Zamboni has racked up about 33,000 miles. Hering and Miller estimate the ice resurfacer could have traveled around the circumference of the Earth about 1.6 times. • The ice is resurfaced six to 10 times per day, depending on the rink schedule. • The arena’s ambient temperature is 54 degrees F. The ice surface has a temperature of 24 degrees F. • The ice is about 1 -1/2 inches thick.

2012-13 Winterlife

Chavez staff keeps cool maintaining ice rink By Emily Drabanksi

Orlando Mendonca poses with the Genoveva Chavez Community Center’s Zamboni — an opportunity open to the public on December 1. The center’s Zamboni operates on giant, multiple battery packs. “It’s the equivalent of 40 batteries. It’s a hybrid system,” Hering said. The center’s 552 Zamboni Ice Resurfacer is an emission-free system. It’s more fuel-efficient and provides better air quality than earlier models. Tom Miller, ice arena manager, said skaters and hockey coaches visiting from other parts of the country remark that the ice at the center is “some of the best in

the country.” He said his goal is “to make sure Santa Feans know what a wonderful ice arena is available to skaters all year round.” He and Hering fell in love with the ice in their youth as hockey players and still enjoy skating. Hering didn’t just fall in love with the ice, though. He met his wife, Dena, an avid skater, at the rink. They tied the knot on the ice in October 2003.

Genoveva Chavez Community Center Ice Rink: Winter Events Turkey Bowling on Ice: November 16, 5:30-7 p.m. Skaters grab the handles of packages of frozen turkeys and slide them into bowling pins for the chance to win a free turkey. Admission is $5.50 for GCCC members and $6.50 for non-members, $3 to bowl. All proceeds benefit the Santa Fe Food Depot. Zamboni Holiday Photos: December 1, 1:30-3:30 p.m. Kids and curious adults can pose with the ice resurfacing machine for a distinctive holiday photo for $5.50. Hanukkah on Ice: December 11, 3-5 p.m. Skate to Hanukkah music and participate in lighting the menorah. Skating lessons and games for the whole family; entertainment, refreshments and Hanukkah gelt. Free admission, $3 skate rental. Disco on Ice: December 21, 5-7:15 p.m. Don your favorite disco attire (think John Travolta!) and skate to flashing lights and disco music. The first 100 skaters are admitted at no charge; all others pay $5.50 for GCCC members and $6.50 for non-members. Year-round: Skating classes for all ages, adult recreation hockey leagues, speed skating and speed skating clinics. Skate rentals available for a fee. Please check the schedule at www.chavezcenter.com. Spectators are welcome for the cost of admission to the center. Don’t forget your jacket. It’s cool inside. For more details: www.chavezcenter.com, 955-4033 (skate shop) or e-mail iceskateoffice@santafenm.gov.

121 Sandoval St. | Santa Fe, NM | 505.983.5155 | www.alpinesports-santafe.com

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