2016-17 Winterlife Magazine

Winterlife 2016-17 WINTER GUIDE FOR SANTA FE AND NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

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SNOW-FREE GETAWAYS X Country & Alpine Ski Guide Climate Change: What We Face Museums, Galleries & Live Music SANTA FE NEW MEXICAN • www.sfnewmexican.com

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Photography: Rebecca Lowndes

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SANTA FE

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New Mexico Museum of Art Small Wonders on the Plaza • 505.476.5072 • nmartmuseum.org

Museum of Indian Arts and Culture Oblique Views: Archaeology, Photography, and Time on Museum Hill • 505.476.1250 • indianartsandculture.org

New Mexico History Museum/Palace of the Governors Lowriders, Hoppers, and Hot Rods: Car Culture of Northern New Mexico on the Plaza • 505.476.5100 • nmhistorymuseum.org

Museum of International Folk Art Sacred Realm: Blessings and Good Fortune across Asia on Museum Hill • 505.476.1200 • internationalfolkart.org

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Top row photos by Terrance Clifford

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P UB L I SHE D N OV E M BE R 1 3 , 2 01 6

Winterlife

2016-17 WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico EDITORIAL creative director Deborah Villa dvilla@sfnewmexican.com magazine editor Daniel Gibson copy editor Sandy Nelson ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT advertising director Bernie Schutz creative and marketing manager Kathryn Lopez designers Elspeth Hilbert, Joan Scholl, Rick Artiaga web designer Michael Harrison ADVERTISING SALES retail sales manager Wendy Ortega, 505-995-3852 Mike Flores Chris Alexander Dana Teton Deb Meyers Edwin Rosario Ben Santana TECHNOLOGY technology director Michael Campbell PRODUCTION operations director Tim Cramer prepress manager Dan Gomez press coordinator George Gamboa packaging coordinator Brenda Shaffer DISTRIBUTION circulation director Michael Reichard distribution coordinator Reggie Perez WEB digital enterprise editor Henry Lopez www.santafenewmexican.com ADDRESS OFFICE: 202 E. Marcy Street HOURS: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday ADVERTISING INFORMATION: 505-995-3852

On the Cover: An extraordinary display of holiday lights and bonfires, plus warm drinks, immersive art installations and other attractions, await visitors to the annual GLOW event at the Santa Fe Botanical Garden during the winter holiday season.

See story on page 25 Photo by Kitty Leaken

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DELIVERY : 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 FOR COPIES OF THIS MAGAZINE,

call 505-986-3010 or email circulation@sfnewmexican.com OWNER Robin Martin PUBLISHER Tom Cross EDITOR Ray Rivera

NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM

Inside

From In Search of Dominguez and Escalante

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Winter Museum Highlights Georgia O'Keeffe Museum

By Arin McKenna

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Winter Indian Market at La Fonda

By Arin McKenna

16

Santa Fe’s Ever-Evolving Food Scene

By Tantri Wija

19

Climate Change From the Ground Up

By Stanley Crawford

26

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Ghost Ranch Mesa formation at night and campsite location, NM. Photo by Siegfried Halus. Courtesy of Greg MacGregor and Siegfried Halus.

22

The Southwest: Back to Aridity?

By Gary Paul Nabhan

42

Après Ski

By John Vollertsen

25

GLOW

By Arin McKenna

48

Pueblo Dances

By RoseMary Diaz

26

Ski Area Roundup

By Daniel Gibson

52

Winter Gallery Guide

By Ellen Berkovitch

33

Cross-Country Skiing — A Guide

By Daniel Gibson

57

Classical Music All Winter

By Craig Smith

36

Eight Top Winter Getaways

By Whitney Spivey

60

Archiving Eden

By Dornith Doherty

63

Snowfall

By Jack Loeffler

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42 PHOTOS BY KITTY LEAKEN

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GEORGIA O'KEEFFE MUSEUM

O’KEEFFE: A GREAT AMERICAN ARTIST A GREAT AMERICAN STORY

The Barns, Lake George, 1926 Georgia O’Keeffe Oil on canvas 21 x 32 inches Georgia O'Keeffe Museum © 2016 Christie’s Images Limited

BY ARIN MCKENNA Winter in Santa Fe comes with the opening of a handful of new and notable museum exhibitions and the ongoing enjoyment of many others. Here’s a look at some of the best.

For most Georgia O’Keeffe admirers, the artist’s larger-than-life, sumptuous flower images are the sum total of her work. Few realize that O’Keeffe was one of the forerunners of the American Abstractionist movement, or that her immense body of work includes major contributions from her New York and New Mexico periods.

This winter the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum hopes to expand visitors’ perceptions of O’Keeffe’s work with A Great American Artist. A Great American Story, a chronological depiction of her rich career.

To gently immerse museum-goers into O’Keeffe’s world, the first gallery one encounters in the museum uses her flower paintings as an introduction to what curator Carolyn Kastner calls her “great contributions to American Modernism, including her deep commitment to abstraction.” Kastner points out that most of O’Keeffe’s work — including her flower paintings — was abstract, a concept O’Keeffe began experimenting with in 1915. “And Abstraction at that time was a very radical idea that was only two or three years old,” Kastner explains. “In 1912, Alfred Stieglitz was the first to publish European ideas about Abstraction, which inspired O’Keeffe to work abstractly.”

Two galleries Kastner dubs “Becoming O’Keeffe” focus on her early career.

In mid-November, those galleries change out from highlighting her years in

West Texas (1916-1918) to other work dating back to 1905, when O’Keeffe was a teenager. The exhibit includes early portraits O’Keeffe made of her family and a never-before-seen group of watercolors of the University of Virginia. It draws heavily on the museum’s extensive collection of photographs and approximately 700 drawings dating back to 1902. “Becoming O’Keeffe” introduces viewers to the artistic practices that the artist would continue throughout her life, including her method of sketching a few lines to capture the essence of an image she would later paint.

That theme carries through to the final gallery, where a 2-by-3-inch drawing with just six lines is the basis for a 48-by-84-inch oil painting of a cloudscape.

“I’ve started calling this one of her superpowers, that she looks out into this enormous natural world and can define six lines that are going to make a composition and have it succeed so well,” Kastner says.

Also on display is the start of O’Keeffe’s lifelong practice of painting several images of the same subject, Kastner says, “where she kept looking and working until, in her words, she got it ‘right.’”

The exhibition also includes paintings, photographs and a wall-sized projection of time-lapse photography shot from O’Keeffe’s house at Ghost Ranch in New Mexico. It depicts how important that home was for O’Keeffe personally and professionally. Another theme, “My New Yorks,” includes images from Lake George, New York, and New York City that she painted between 1918 and 1928, which Kastner calls “the most prolific decade in O’Keeffe’s life.”

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Bella Donna, 1939 Georgia O’Keeffe Oil on canvas 36 x 30 inches Extended loan, private collection © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

Horse’s Skull with White Rose, 1931 Georgia O’Keeffe Oil on canvas 36 x 16 inches Extended loan, private collection © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

For Kastner, the highlight of this work is the museum’s latest acquisition, The Barns, Lake George from 1926. According to Kastner, the painting illustrates how O’Keeffe is “consolidating her Abstraction but really continuing to make a commitment to the idea of American Modernism.”

Another facet of the exhibition, “O’Keeffe’s New Mexico,” displays some of her most notable depictions of the New Mexico landscape from the museum’s collection and select loans. Kastner calls this gallery “the heart of our collection.”

The re-creation of a wall from a 1955 New York gallery exhibit — the same year that Alfred H. Barr Jr., founding director of the Museum of Modern Art, praised O’Keeffe’s contribution to abstract art — highlights the fact that O’Keeffe remained a major contributor to American Abstractionism long after

she began living in New Mexico part time in 1936.

The final gallery holds images from O’Keeffe’s world travels, including works from her final two series of clouds and riverbeds seen as if in flight. They illustrate how the artist continued to experiment with new subject matter and new techniques even into her 70s.

“We’re really focusing on her life,” Kastner notes, “because she’s an extraordinary woman of the 20th century, and we want people to leave really understanding her contributions to Abstraction and Modernism.”

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM 217 Johnson St., 505-946-1000 or www.okeeffemuseum.org A Great American Artist. A Great American Story. Through December.

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SNUGGLE A BABY, SUPPORT A MOM

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MANY MOTHERS 505.983.5984 ~ info@manymothers.org ~ www.manymothers.org In Search of Dominguez and Escalante Free-range buffalo, Montrose County, CO. Photo by Greg MacGregor. Courtesy of Greg MacGregor and Siegfried Halus.

IN OTHER MUSEUMS Other shows have recently opened, or are opening soon, at local museums. Here are some of the more notable. For information on long-term and permanent exhibits, see the museums’ websites.

IAIA MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY NATIVE ARTS Owners: Mary McCusker and Allen Winchester 3018-A Cielo Court | Santa Fe, NM 87507 | 505-473-3747 Open 7 Days a Week: Mon - Sat 10-5:30pm | Thurs 10-7pm | Sun 1-5pm

108 Cathedral Place, 505-983-1777 iaia.edu/iaia-museum-of-contemporary-native-arts/museum New Impressions: Experiments in Contemporary Native American Printmaking.

Jan. 19–June 4. Athena LaTocha: Inside the Forces of Nature. Jan. 27–April 29.

MUSEUM OF INDIAN ARTS & CULTURE

708-710 Camino Lejo, 505-476-1250 or www.indianartsandculture.org Diego Romero vs the End of Art. Feb. 12−Jan. 1, 2018.

MUSEUM OF INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART

706 Camino Lejo, 505-476-1200 or www.internationalfolkart.org Flamenco: From Spain to New Mexico. Through Sept. 10.

NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART

107 W. Palace Avenue, 505-476-5072 or www.nmartmuseum.org Small Wonders. Through March 12, 2017. Be With Me, a Small Exhibition of Large Painting. Through April 30.

NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM

113 Lincoln Ave., 505-476-5200 or www.nmhistorymuseum.org Agnes Martin and Me. Through Aug. 5. In Search of Dominguez and Escalante.

Dec. 18, 2016−Dec. 18, 2017.

MUSEUM OF SPANISH COLONIAL ART

750 Camino Lejo, 505-982-2226 or www.spanishcolonial.org New Spain to New Art: Recent Acquisitions. Through April 2.

SANTA FE BOTANICAL GARDEN

725 Camino Lejo, 505-471-9103 or www.santafebotanicalgarden.org Visual Poetry: Bill Barrett Sculpture. Through April.

SITE SANTA FE

1606 Paseo de Peralta, 505-989-1199 or www.sitesantafe.org SITElines.2016: New Perspectives on Art of the Americas. Through Jan. 8.

WHEELWRIGHT MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN 704 Camino Lejo, 505-982-4636 or wheelwright.org Early Navajo Equestrian Equipment. Opens Jan. 29

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2016– 2017 EVENTS

Lannan Foundation presents its 2016–2017 Winter/Spring events.

Readings & Conversations brings to Santa Fe a wide range of writers from the literary world of fiction, nonfiction, and poetry to read from and discuss their work.

In Pursuit of Cultural Freedom is a lecture series on political, economic, environmental and human rights issues featuring social justice activists, writers, journalists, and scholars discussing critical topics of our day.

7 DECEMBER ANDREW BACEVICH WITH MARILYN B. YOUNG 18 JANUARY CHINA MIÉVILLE WITH JORD/ANA ROSENBERG 1 FEBRUARY GLENN GREENWALD WITH TOM ENGELHARDT 15 FEBRUARY EILEEN MYLES WITH DAN CHIASSON 8 MARCH TERRY TEMPEST WILLIAMS WITH COLUM McCANN 29 MARCH VIET THANH NGUYEN WITH MAXINE HONG KINGSTON 3 MAY ARUNDHATI ROY WITH ANTHONY ARNOVE 10 MAY MARLON JAMES WITH RUSSELL BANKS

ALL EVENTS BEGIN AT 7PM

Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 West San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, NM Tel. 505.988.1234 www.lensic.org Tickets for each event go on sale the first SATURDAY of the month prior to the event.

General admission $6 Senior and student with ID $3

www.lannan.org

PHOTOS BY TERRANCE CLIFFORD, COURTESY SWAIA

Painting by Nocona Burgess, 2014 Winter Indian Market.

Dr. Robert Martin and Luci Tapahonso at the 2015 event.

Winter Indian Market moves to La Fonda

BY ARIN MCKENNA

DETAILS Where: La Fonda on the Plaza, 100 E. San Francisco St. When: Dec. 16, 6−9 p.m.

Special opening celebration; $50 includes access for the entire weekend.

Dec. 17, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. and Dec. 18. 10 a.m.–3 p.m.

Admission: $10 for one day, $15 for a two-day pass. Tickets may be purchased online at www.swaia.org or at the door for all three days. La Fonda on the Plaza is offering a special $179 Winter Indian Market package that includes breakfast for two and two complimentary weekend passes for the market.

Call 800-523-5002 or 505-9825511 for reservations and use the promo code “winter.”

The 11th annual Winter Indian Market of the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA) is at a new location this year: the historic La Fonda on the Plaza. SWAIA chief operating officer Dallin Maybee calls it “a perfect fit.”

“It is a beautiful building steeped with history and a festive and intimate location for the artists and buyers,” Maybee says. “La Fonda has always been a great partner to SWAIA, and we are excited to expand our relationship with them.”

The dates for this year’s market are changing as well.

Instead of Thanksgiving weekend, the market will run Friday, Dec. 16, through Sunday, Dec. 18. According to Maybee, feedback from the artists has been positive.

“They are happy to be getting their Thanksgiving weekend back and are looking forward to increased sales to holiday shoppers.”

The event begins Friday with a special opening celebration featuring food, drinks, live music and earlybird shopping. Live music and other entertainment continue throughout the weekend, as do screenings of SWAIA’s 2016 Best of Class X “Moving Images” awardwinning films.

Of course, the real draw is the chance to purchase handcrafted fine art pieces from more than 200 outstanding artists drawn from 2016 Indian Market awardwinners. Although artists may scale their pieces with gift giving in mind, they must still meet SWAIA’s demanding standards for materials and techniques. Shoppers can purchase jewelry, pottery, beadwork, paintings and photographs, sculpture, designer clothing and more, with items ranging from small gifts to collectors’ pieces and from traditional to cutting edge.

Another highlight is the Festival of Trees, a silent auction of Christmas trees decked out by artists and

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local businesses. “The Festival of Trees is a unique kind of fundraiser, because it is a great marketing opportunity for participating artists and local business,” Maybee explains. “It’s also a chance to partake in some friendly competition and try to outdo each other creatively for a great cause.” Maybee himself has won that competition the past two years — last year for a Darth Vaderthemed tree and the year before with a Peanuts tree.

Attendees decide the winner by voting on their favorite.

One of SWAIA’s 2016 fellowship recipients, Choctaw artist David McElroy, is donating a tree decorated with sterling silver ornaments adorned with stamp work and turquoise stones, and stamped and repoussé sterling silver dog tags. “SWAIA does such a great job for the Native arts community. I think it’s really important for all of us to step in and do little things that we can to help support them, because they support us,” McElroy says. He will also have his sterling silver ornaments for sale at his table, as well as a wide selection of jewelry and gift-worthy items.

Arin McKenna is an award-winning journalist who has freelanced for The Santa Fe New Mexican and other publications since 2004. She is currently county reporter for the Los Alamos Monitor.

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Moving on

Biadora Bakery

Indulge

The everevolving Santa Fe food scene

BY TANTRI WIJA PHOTOS BY KITTY LEAKEN

Fans of exotic ice cream will love La Lecheria (1708 Lena St.), the newest project of Fire & Hops chef Joel Coleman. Here you can maximize your adventure by having a flight of locally sourced flavors like green chile cajeta, red chile chocolate, peach cardamom and miso (yes, miso! — tastes like butterscotch). Or, if you want a full-on chocolate immersion, visit Santa Fe’s newest magical chocolate factory, Cacao (3201 Richards Lane). Located just off Siler Road on the south side of town, it’s a place where you can not only sample single-origin chocolates (and coffees!) from beans roasted in-house but also see the very chocolate works that create the divine nectar, from roasting and grinding to mixing the liquid chocolate, and even take a tasting workshop with a little chocolate history and a lot of samples.

Cacao

Santa Fe may be America’s oldest capital city, but its legendary food scene is an everevolving map of new, expanded and revamped eating experiences, and both locals and frequent visitors can always find something fresh to whet their appetites in the

Winter is a good time to indulge a sweet tooth (chunky sweaters hide so many sins), and Santa Fe’s sugar scene has recently grown. The former Ecco space on Marcy Street now houses Chez Dre (105 E. Marcy St.), a truly decadent French pastry shop bursting with quiche, croque monsieurs (and madames) and an encyclopedic list of filled crêpes, from the over-the-top smoked salmon and crème fraiche to the sinfully simple butter-and-raw-sugar option. Or head across town, where brand-new Biadora Bakery (1807 Second St.), a tiny little jewel of a French pastry shop, explodes daily with glistening croissants, pan-au-chocolat and frothy cookies by ex-New York patisserie Salvator Biadora.

Or for a more alt-lifestyle experience, try Indulge (317 Aztec St.), a French-themed coffeehouse/ bakery just around the corner from the Cowgirl BBQ that specializes in delicate little vegan and glutenfree confections. “Our food is made with love, organic whenever possible, vegan and GMO free.”

Chez Dre

Some of the city’s old-guard, high-end eateries have made some changes. With the passing of chef Eric DiStefano, Geronimo (724 Canyon Road) has a new head chef, who happens to be the old sous chef, Sllin Cruz (they emphasize consistency at Geronimo).

City Different.

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Sllin Cruz

Bodega Prime's Burger Special

La Lecheria

The Four Seasons Hotel (198 N.M. 592) and the Inn at the Anasazi (113 Washington Ave.) both have new head chefs as well, with accordingly revamped menus, and the La Fiesta Lounge at La Fonda has not only a brand-new menu but a fully renovated bar area, harking back to the original 1950s design.

For a day of adventurous dining, Santa Fe has a new eatery with a focus on innovation and off-the-cuff creativity. For breakfast, brunch or lunch, head up Cerrillos Road toward St. Michael’s Drive and visit Bodega Prime (1281 San Felipe Ave.), Noela Figueroa’s newest personal kitchen that is half bespoke delicatessen, half lunch spot. Pop in to pick up the condiments and deli items that kick your meals up from perfunctory to perfect. This includes onion balsamic jam, house-cured gravlax and a particularly addictive concoction called “garlic conserva” — a garlic confit that, with a loaf of bread, can be a meal in itself. Or sample their wares by sitting down in their open kitchen/lunch space/retail area for sandwiches made with their products, like the “breakfast burger” with pork sausage and housemade peach ketchup on an English muffin.

Jambo food truck

Some perennial favorites have expanded: Third-wave coffee palace Iconik Coffee now has a location downtown inside Collected Works bookstore (202 Galisteo St.), and popular breakfast/lunch spot Palacio Café has spawned a second location just a couple of blocks away, Palacio II (227 Don Gaspar Ave.), which has more of a sit-down vibe but the same solid local chile and breakfast burritos. And two other popular local spots, Jambo and Dr. Field Goods, both have food trucks now, so look for them at your favorite beerfest, concert or other special event. The Field Goods truck, with its encyclopedic menu, is a truck-and-a-half and is hard to miss, taking up two parking spots, while the Jambo truck features a tongue sandwich not served at the restaurant; both are worth a visit even if you’re a regular at the restaurants. To catch up with them, follow them on social media.

Noela Figueroa, chef/owner, and Marcus Jackson, sous chef

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©2 0 14 E I L E E N F I S H E R I N C .

©2 0 14 E I L E E N F I S H E R I N C .

SAVE THE DATES Nic & Zoe Dec. 9 - 10

Fine Gems & Jewelry Arts

&

Lisette Jan. 20 - 21

• Refreshments • • Special Orders • • Drawings •

SNEAK PEAK 30th Anniversary

Celebration Spring/Summer with Zephyr September 18th to 21st Zephyr Clothing Bring us your gently 125 E. Palace Ave. worn Eileen Fisher Casa Sena Plaza clothing.

For each 505.988.5635 item donated, you will receive $5 off your next purchase. A portion of our sales will be donated to The Food Depot.

Sena Plaza 125 E. Palace • Santa Fe 505.988.5635

Subtelty in Design is Part of the

Difference Joseph De Bella, Graduate Gemologist Santa Fe’s Diamond & Colored Stone Specialist Next to the Lensic • 505-231-5357 debellajewelry.com • debella_jewelry Instagram Social Icon

share’n is care’n @mrkylemac

Sena Plaza • 125 East Palace • Santa Fe, NM 505.983.3366 www.sockmagic.com

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Climate change from the ground up A local farmer and writer watches global warming effects on Northern New Mexico, particularly its impacts on winter snowfall and weather

KITTY LEAKEN

Author Stanley Crawford contemplates the flow in the Río Embudo near his home and farm.

BY STANLEY CRAWFORD While driving over Raton Pass some 20 years ago, I was surprised by the number of dead and dying piñon and ponderosa pines. A few years later, almost overnight, piñon trees on the slope above our farm in the Embudo Valley began dying.

And there have been other signs of impending climate changes. The frostfree growing season has extended on average by three to five weeks, which is most notable in the autumn. When we first started farming back in the 1970s in the Embudo Valley, 50 miles north of Santa Fe, we worried the summer wouldn’t be long enough to allow the winter squash to mature before a September 1st topping frost and before killing frosts anytime between the 15th and the 30th. Now we don’t typically see killing frosts until late October or even early November.

Forty-below-zero winter nights? The last time we saw one of those, a record, was in early January 1969. Minus-10 and minus-15 January nights were common up into the 1980s and ’90s, versus the occasional zero-degree night we now experience in the depths of winter.

In his look at the effects of global warming on the American Southwest and northern Mexico, A Great Aridness (Oxford, 2011), Santa Fe-based author William deBuys points out that “most models predict that the Southwest will outstrip other regions in both the rate and that amount of change, and already data from the field suggest that the models are correct — except in one important respect: the changes are occurring faster than expected.” He quotes Jonathan Overpeck, co-director of the Institute of the Environment at the University of Arizona, who states, “All the major predictions about climate change in the Southwest concern winter weather. They include earlier onsets of spring conditions coupled with less late winter precipitation.”

John Fleck, director of the Water Resources Program at the University of New Mexico and author of the recent volume Water Is for Fighting Over

and Other Myths About Water in the West (Island Press, 2016), echoes deBuys’ observations about the effects of global climate change. “It’s warmer — two to two and a half degrees warmer since the 1970s.” This doesn’t sound like much, but the effect is more rain, less snow, less moisture stored in the mountain snowpack, more evaporation, more water demand. In effect, atmospheric warming is a “tax on all water supplies.”

Global warming was identified by the Pentagon as a major threat to the country as early as October 2003 in a then-secret study by Peter Schwartz and Doug Randall titled Abrupt Climate Change Scenario and Its Implications for United States National Security. Among other things, it predicted the demise of the Rocky Mountain ecosystem, which is what stores our water from winter snows to supply summer stream and river flows, recharge our aquifers and suppress catastrophic high-mountain fires.

Federal offices, such as the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), are also looking at long-term snowfall trends in the region. However, data is extremely hard to come by and no single party or person seems to have a firm handle on these trends, which is shocking considering the enormous importance of this information. But Brian Guyer of NOAA does note, “Looking at preliminary data, snowpack health in the mountains above Santa Fe has declined since 2010. Even worse, the vast majority of snow seasons dating back to 1995 have trended below normal.”

Erratic weather ahead Given that the Sangre de Cristo Range is at the confluence of weather systems coming down from the Arctic and off the Pacific Coast and from moisture surging up from the Gulf Coast and east from Baja California, predictions associated with global warming patterns here are not likely to be linear. More likely we can count on erratic weather, with periods of drought, heavy rains, unseasonably hot and cold spells and whatever else nature will throw at us as a response to humankind pumping huge amounts of carbon into the atmosphere.

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In short, global warming is not likely to be a gentle “warming” phenomenon so much as an escalating series of spikes and shocks.

The natural world, beyond the die-off of piñons and ponderosas, is clearly shifting. According to ornithologist friend and neighbor Robert Templeton, who has participated in numerous Audubon counts, a number of species have moved northward in the past decade. It is estimated that by 2080 the piñon jay will lose 93 percent of its range. Grackles are now common in Española.

Ravens, once rare, seem to be pushing magpies out of their riparian habitat.

Two years ago the Río Embudo ran so high in August that I was unable to take my traditional afternoon dip. During the great summer drought of 2004, only a string of tiny stagnant pools remained. A few years later, a September cloudburst filled most of the acequias of the valley with silt and gravel to the tops of their banks, an event of such severity as to warrant a countywide Federal Emergency Management Agency grant. Son Adam (aka “Atom”) Crawford, a longtime kayaker, keeps careful tabs on Río Embudo and Río Grande water flows, and he notes that the spring runoff flows are peaking almost a month earlier, in May rather than June.

Insurance companies, experts in anticipating the worst, do not count themselves among those who deny global warming. Innumerable studies of the effects of fossil fuel burning during this new geological age, the Anthropocene, have measured and cataloged the melting of Arctic ice, the dwindling of glaciers worldwide, the acidification of the oceans, mass extinctions unprecedented since the Pleistocene, stronger storms, longer droughts, catastrophic forest fires and habitat changes everywhere.

Hopeful signs of adaptation

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Yet John Fleck maintains that western cities, particularly Albuquerque and Santa Fe, have adapted well to diminishing water supplies. Per-capita water use in Albuquerque has been cut nearly in half in the past 20 years. Agriculture has also shown a strong “adaptive capacity” in the face of climate change.

Those of us who farm for a living will be facing not just inconvenience or discomfort but how to keep working in the face of temperature extremes of the sort we faced last July: long dry spells, severe insect infestations, the likelihood of more hail, and on and on. Most market farmers have already converted to drip irrigation, a major water-saving technology. Lightweight, spun-polyester, floating row covers are commonly employed against insect infestations and late or early frosts and for some hail protection. Storage tanks and ponds can also help mitigate uneven precipitation and tight acequia irrigation schedules.

In Velarde, Christopher and Taylor Basset of Freshies Orchards have constructed more than an acre of hoop houses for plantings of 1,500 plums, nectarines, apricots and sweet cherries, which will be interplanted with tomatoes, cucumbers and melons until the fruit trees within reach maturity next season. The hoop houses will protect blossoms from late spring frosts and summer hailstorms — increasingly a problem for Northern New Mexico fruit growers. The Bassets will construct a second round of hoop houses in 2018 for peaches and cherries. With the hoop houses assuring a regular supply of fruit, the Bassets estimate they will quickly pay for themselves.

One can deny, ignore, be oblivious to all the changes in our environment, or adjust the thermostat up and down, or throw up one’s hands and say there is nothing to be done — it’s too late. Yet for all the doom and gloom, there are those who believe that a rapid, deep investment in alternative energy forms such as solar and wind can slow and even halt the process in time — or in the nick of time. Global warming is the effect, among other things, of each of our personal habits of consumption multiplied billions, even trillions of times, and facilitated by shortsighted public policies.

Yet humanity has, according to Fleck, a deep reservoir of “adaptive capacity.” Environmentalist Bill McKibben also suggests that the best way to cope with the inevitable disruptions ahead is to strengthen your local community. In short, global warming and climate change mean that we all have to work harder at working together.

Stanley Crawford writes and farms in the Embudo Valley. His nonfiction books include Mayordomo, A Garlic Testament and The River in Winter; fictional works include Log of the S.S. The Mrs Unguentine and Village due out in March.

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CLOCKWISE: GEORGIA O’KEEFFE, UNTITLED (ROTUNDA -UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA) SCRAPBOOK U OF V, 1912-1914. WATERCOLOR ON PAPER, 11 7/8 X 9 IN. GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM. GIFT OF THE GEORGIA O’KEEFFE FOUNDATION (2006.05.608). © GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM. MARIA CHABOT, GEORGIA O’KEEFFE, ON THE ROOF, GHOST RANCH HOUSE, 1944. PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINT. GIFT OF MARIA CHABOT. © GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM. PHOTO: GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM. © GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM. GEORGIA O’KEEFFE, PEDERNAL, 1941. OIL ON CANVAS, 19 X 30 1/4 IN. GIFT OF THE GEORGIA O’KEEFFE FOUNDATION. © GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM.

A Great American Artist. A Great American Story.

Explore the remarkable career of Georgia O’Keeffe through her artwork, the objects and places that were meaningful to her, and the experiences that defined her life. On view, an installation of early work done by O’Keeffe while at the University of Virginia from 1913 to 1915, where she was introduced to making art that was grounded in personal expression. In addition, glimpse the spectacular views from O’Keeffe’s home at Ghost Ranch with a presentation of time-lapse photography of the grandeur of the landscape that surrounded her.

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W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

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Climate change

Southwest agriculture and food security in the face of climate change

BY GARY PAUL NABHAN No single weather event, or even cluster of extreme events, can be definitively tied to human-induced climate change, but multiple sophisticated climate models from global research institutions do predict a greater frequency and intensity of catastrophic weather events. Moreover, temperatures and associated evaporation rates continue to rise, as they have over the last few decades, especially in cities such as Santa Fe, Albuquerque, El Paso/Juarez, Tucson, Phoenix and Hermosillo, Sonora, which suffer from urban heat-island effects.

In other words, residents of our desert cities are being exposed to hotter temperatures and daunting aridity. Temperatures are increasing more rapidly in this region faster than most others.

And yet, predicting how heightened heat and aridity might affect both residential and agricultural water use for southwesterners is a complex task because we are affected by global change, plus more specific changes in the watersheds above our cities and in the cities themselves.

River flows to decline For instance, the depths of snowpack and durations of stream flows from the headwaters of the Colorado River and Río Grande are projected to decline, while rainfall patterns in the Chihuahuan, Sonoran and Mojave deserts are likely to be far more variable. While water planners in the region as a whole will have to grapple with greater uncertainty, Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Las Cruces, El Paso and other regional cities still rely on multiple sources of groundwater and surface water that buffer their residents from the effects of this uncertainty over the short haul.

However, some cities, including Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Las Cruces, El Paso/ Juarez and San Diego, are at greater immediate risk of water scarcity than are Northern New Mexico’s largest cities.

As Arizona Department of Agriculture director Mark Killian underscored at a statewide meeting on “food deserts” in early July, “our food security is clearly linked to our water security.” He also correctly observed that the challenge before us is also about the competition for available water among the various states and, within each state, their human users (urban versus agricultural) and wildlife. Both federal and state agencies legally mandate that society does its best to meet the minimum needs for the recovery of endangered aquatic species and, in doing so, protect the ecosystem services they provide.

Given the high probability that food production in New Mexico, Arizona and Sonora will be affected by meteorological drought (less rain and more evaporation), or politically mandated drought (less water for offreservation agriculture due to favoring of cities, wild habitats and tribes), plus unpredictable and violent storms, we must ask ourselves, “How will this affect our food security?”

Competition for water to increase First and foremost, it is likely that both Native nations and private farmers will increasingly opt to sell their allotted water supplies — once intended for local food security — to the highest bidder, which may be municipalities or industries. Or they may sell to high water-consumptive enterprises. For instance, a Saudi Arabian corporation recently purchased more than 14,000 acres of irrigated croplands in Arizona and southern California to grow alfalfa

GENE PEACH

For now, the Río Grande continues to flow with force through the Taos Gorge. that is now being sent more than halfway around the world to feed dairy cows that produce a billion liters of milk in air-conditioned barns near Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. Such water transactions may be ecologically and ethically questionable because of their large water and energy “foodprint,” but they are perfectly in accord with federal laws passed during the days of the “old normal.” What forces will push our society to revise antiquated laws that allow us to forfeit control over trillions of gallons of embedded water each year that supports the economies of other countries but produces few multiplier effects that stay within our own region?

Secondly, some water-intensive food crops, such as pecans, may be “transitioned out” of production across large acreages of the region due

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DESERT DESERT SON SON

of santa fe DESERT SON of santa fe HANDMADE BOOTS Henry • BELTS • BUCKLES • HANDBAGS • JEWELRY Representing: Beguelin • Officine Creative • Marsell HANDMADE BOOTS • BELTS BUCKLES of• santa fe • HANDBAGS • JEWELRY HANDMADE BOOTS • BELTS • BUCKLES • HANDBAGS • JEWELRY

to rising production costs, salinization of arable soils, heat limitations on crop yields or better returns from less water-intensive but still high-value vegetables or other tree crops.

Third, climate-induced expansion of aggressively invasive weeds, pests and diseases will begin to cripple some crops (such as citrus) more than others.

Climate change is already affecting the availability of crop pollinators as well, a food security issue that beekeepers and organic farmers have been engaged with for two decades, just as they have been with invasive diseases, parasites, weeds and ants.

Fourth, there will be intense societal debate over how much of our irrigated lands should be kept under forage crops for livestock versus food crop plants for direct human consumption. Although the best ranchers still may be able to produce range-fed beef on natural or restored grasslands in some years, yearround range carrying capacity will inevitably be compromised by drought.

Finally, more of our food will be produced in controlled environments such as “vertical farms,” “window gardens,” “agrivoltaic” plantings under solar photovoltaic arrays, and aquaponic and microbial fermentation installations.

New crops and growing methods If you scratch below the surface a little, you will see that New Mexicans such as Richard Felger of Silver City and Joel Glanzberg of Santa Fe have been engaged in evaluating new crops for desert agriculture for well over a quarter century.

Our early proposals for intentional production and consumption of some of these desert crops — such as mesquite pod flour, halophytic greens, tepary beans, cholla cactus buds, prickly pear fruit and amaranth grain — seemed like pie-in-the-sky wishful thinking to critics in mainstream agricultural institutions in the 1970s and 1980s.

Ironically, six of the top 10 desert crops proposed by Felger, me and other ethnobiologists during that era are now in restaurants and groceries every day of the year, either wild-harvested or cultivated through rainwater harvesting or other permaculture systems. Pilot projects have advanced the harvestability, consumer acceptability and nutritional density of several dozen perennial food crops that can now be grown, processed and prepared with “disruptive technologies” and in “novel agro-ecosystems” that were not available when such work was begun in Tucson nearly a half century ago.

With Tucson’s recent designation as the first “U.S. World City of Gastronomy” in the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, which Santa Fe is also part of, we will be looking to ensure the food security and inclusive well-being of regional residents who suffer from what has turned out to be an imprudent and unsustainable industrial food system. We now need all dwellers of the Southwest to think of themselves as “co-designers” of a more energy- and water-efficient, just and economically viable food system that has the “presilience” to anticipate and avert the deleterious consequences of climate change. Southwestern institutions, including nonprofits and colleges, may need to be creatively redesigned to address human health, land health and community well-being to contribute as proactive innovators of climate-friendly solutions, rather than as passive victims of climate catastrophes.

DESERT SON of santa fe

HANDMADE BOOTS •Bequelin BELTS ••BUCKLES • HANDBAGS • 11 JEWELRY Representing Officine Creative • Masnada • Henry BeguelinCreative • Zero Representing Henry Masnada • Officine • Cashmere Marsell 725 Canyon Road • 505.982.9499 • desertsonofsantafe.com

Representing Henry Bequelin • Masnada • Officine Creative • Marsell Representing Henry Bequelin • Masnada • Officine Creative • Marsell • 505.982.9499 • desertsonofsantafe.com 725 Canyon Road 725 Canyon Road • 505.982.9499 • desertsonofsantafe.com

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Gary Paul Nabhan is an agricultural ecologist and ethnobotonist. He is director of the University of Arizona Center for Regional Food Studies, the W.K. Kellogg Endowed Chair in Food and Water Security for the Borderlands, founder of Native Seeds/ SEARCH and a widely published writer and prolific speaker.

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Photo: Anne Staveley

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THE ARTFUL ILLUMINATION OF NATURE GLOW highlights Santa Fe Botanical Garden’s assets

BY ARIN MCKENNA | PHOTO BY KITTY LEAKEN You won’t see light displays of jaguars racing across a lawn at the Santa Fe Botanical Garden’s fourth annual GLOW. Look instead for lasers, LED lighting and bonfires to create an artful illumination of nature.

“I came from a larger public garden, where they’ve offered larger winter light displays annually. And they’re magical,” explains Sarah Spearman, SFBG’s public affairs director. “But what I love about GLOW is its beautiful illumination of nature. We’re not trying to mimic any other large organization’s light display. It’s unique to our garden and to Santa Fe. And that is so sweet and special and serene. It’s lovely. It’s just a wonderful holiday thing to do, and it’s very natural and organic.”

This year’s GLOW offers several new experiences for visitors, the first being an expansion into the new, phase-two garden section titled Ojos y Manos: Eyes and Hands.

An illuminated 20-foot-diameter children’s dome will beckon visitors to the new garden along a specially illuminated pathway that crosses the 103-year-old Kearny’s Gap Bridge. There children can have photos taken with Santa and engage in activities centered on this year’s theme, Lunar/Solar.

Although displays have changed every year, this is the first year GLOW has a theme. “There are aspects of GLOW that will be very lunar and cool and blue, and other aspects that will be very solar and red and fiery,” says SFBG chief executive officer Clayton Bass. “This could be really interesting if it snows, and we’ve always had snow during GLOW.” According to Spearman, Ojos y Manos lends itself to the solar side of the theme, and “we’ll really be playing a lot with the element of fire.”

Also for the first time this year, two artists have been asked to participate in GLOW. “Part of our original concept for GLOW was to make it also a place where we engage artists who are doing very innovative work, and sometimes work that’s even using light as a medium,” Bass notes.

Christopher Short’s laser art (www.coherentmagic.com) will be featured in Ojos’ large heated pavilion. Short is creating a new performance that incorporates the Lunar/Solar theme; it will show at 5:30, 6:30 and 7:30 p.m. from Dec. 16 to Jan. 1. The pavilion also hosts a bar and music. Short will also create some illuminated boxes for display and sale.

Victoria Rabinowe’s (www.victoriadreams.com) aspen sapling “spirit sticks,” which Spearman calls “very fun and whimsical,” will also be featured during GLOW. The illuminated spirit sticks will join the yearlong exhibit Visual Poetry: Bill Barrett Sculpture.

“This is the first time we’ll have art in the garden that’s specifically for GLOW,” Spearman says. “When you go to GLOW, one of the beautiful things is how the existing sculpture exhibits are illuminated, but this year we’re adding some of Victoria’s pieces to it.”

GLOW is also on a new schedule this year, opening December 16 and running every night, except Dec. 24−25, through New Year’s Day. “We decided this year we wanted to create more of a celebration feel, so

once it starts it just doesn’t stop till it’s over,” Spearman says, noting that most schools are on break during that time. “So we’re trying to create more opportunities for families to enjoy the holiday season.”

Free admission for children 12 and under — also new this year — should further encourage families to visit.

The entertainment schedule will also be stepped up, from just Saturday nights to every night, with special performances Fridays and Saturdays.

Confirmed acts include choral groups such as Upstart Crow performing old English Christmas songs and Scola Cantorum, the Kwanza Drummers, Ke Naté with Native American hip-hop and bluegrass with Tim Nolan and the Railroad Reunion. “We’re going to have a blast. It’s going to be a good time,” concludes Bass.

Details SANTA FE BOTANICAL GARDEN

www.santafebotanicalgarden.org 505-471-9103 715 Camino Lejo on Museum Hill 5-8 p.m. Dec. 16-Jan. 1, closed Dec. 24-25. Santa will be onsite Dec. 16-23.

General admission $9, members $7. Children 12 and under get in free. Early-bird discounts available online starting Nov. 11.

W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

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SKI AREAS AT A GLANCE

Angel Fire KITTY LEAKEN

Taos Ski Valley

800-776-2291, www.skitaos.com Snow report: 866-968-7386, Ext. 2202 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 2 (Nov. 24 to Dec. 16 Thursdays through Sundays only; extended season if conditions allow) Distance from Santa Fe: 85 miles Travel time: Two hours Lifts and runs: 12 chairlifts and three surface lifts servicing 110 trails (51 percent advanced, 25 percent intermediate, 24 percent beginner) Elevation: 9,200 feet at base; 12,450 at top of new Kachina Chair; 3,250-foot vertical-lift-served drop Lift tickets: Adult, full day $98, half day $84; teens (13-17), full day $81, half day $63; children (7-12), full day $61; seniors (65-79), full day $81, half day $63; free for children ages 6 and under (with a paying adult) and those 80 and older; seniors 70-79 qualify for discount season pass.

Prices reduced before Dec. 16 and after March 26; annual passes, Taos Card and other discounts available.

Snow: Average annual snowfall 305 inches; snow making on all beginner and intermediate slopes Facilities: Terrain park, lessons, rentals, extensive lodging, retail shops, restaurants, bars, Adaptive Ski Program, terrain park, free mountain tours Child care: Children’s Center day care, and youth ski and boarding schools Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 north through Taos. Take N.M. 150 to Taos Ski Valley.

Angel Fire Resort

855-990-0194, www.angelfireresort.com Snow report: 575-377-4222 Scheduled season: Dec. 9 to March 19 Distance from Santa Fe: 94 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts (including two high-speed quads) and two surface lifts servicing 79 downhill trails (36 percent expert, 46 percent intermediate, 18 percent beginner) and groomed Nordic trails Lift tickets: Adult, full day $68 (regular season, i.e., not peak rates), half day $54; teens (13-17), full day $58, half day $49; juniors (7-12), full day $48, half day $40; free for anyone older than 70 or younger than 6. Night skiing is $24 per person or $12 with same-day ticket.

Elevation: 8,600 feet at base; 10,677 feet at summit; 2,077-foot vertical drop Snow: Average annual snowfall 210 inches; snow making on 52 percent of the mountain Facilities: State’s only night skiing (with Night Rider Terrain Park, open weekends and holidays), lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants, bars, Adaptive Ski Program, Nordic center with 15 kilometers of trails and rental skis and snowshoes, multiple terrain parks for all levels, tubing hill, sledding and snowshoeing Child care: Day-care center and children’s ski school Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Take U.S. 64 east over Palo Flechado Pass (9,101 feet) to N.M. 434, and follow this south a few miles to the resort entrance.

nde Gra

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Tesuque

505-662-5725, www.skipajarito.com Snow report: 505-662-5725 Scheduled season: Nov. 25-Dec. 11 open Fridays-Sundays; Dec. 16-Jan. 1 open daily; Jan. 4-March 5 open WednesdaysSundays (and all holidays); March 10-26 open daily; April 1-9 open Saturdays and Sundays Distance from Santa Fe: 40 miles Travel time: 60 minutes Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and one surface lift servicing 40 trails (30 percent expert, 50 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner) Lift tickets: Adults, full day $49, half day $39; teens (13-20), full day $42, half day $33; children (7-12), full day $34, half day $27; seniors (60-69), $42, half day $33; free for children age 6 and younger and seniors 70 and older. Season passes, free lift ticket and local lodging packages and other discounts available.

Elevation: 9,200 feet at base; 10,440 feet at summit; 1,440-foot vertical drop Snow: Average annual snowfall 137 inches Facilities: Lessons, rentals, café, Adaptive Ski Program, accessible to Nordic trails, terrain park Child care: None; children’s ski school Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos. Follow signs to the ski area, located 3 miles west of town on Camp May Road (in storms, fourwheel drive highly recommended).

Pajarito

Taos Ski Valley

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Pojoaque 84 285

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area

Española FR-601

Black Lake 120

Pojoaque 502

White Rock

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Bandelier National Monument

84 285

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Los Alamos

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505-982-4429, www.skisantafe.com Snow report: Online only Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 2 Distance from Santa Fe: 16 miles Travel time: 30 minutes Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and two conveyor lifts servicing 82 trails (40 percent expert, 40 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner) Elevation: 10,350 feet at base; 12,075 feet at summit; 1,725-foot vertical drop Lift tickets: Adult (ages 21-61), full day $75, half day $60; students (13-23), full day $52; children (12 and under), $52 and seniors (62-71), $56; free for children under 46 inches tall and seniors 72 years and older. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available Snow: Average annual snowfall 225 inches; snow making on 50 percent of the mountain Facilities: Lessons, rentals, retail shops, restaurants, bar, Adaptive Ski Program and terrain park Child care: Chipmunk Corner Children’s Center day care and snow-sports school, Adventure Glade Directions from Santa Fe: Take Washington Avenue north to Artist Road and turn right. Artist Road becomes Hyde Park Road (N.M. 475); follow it 16 miles to the top of the mountain; drive time from Plaza is about 30 minutes in good weather; road can be troublesome in fresh snow (four-wheel drive recommended).

Jemez Mountains

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WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 27

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Taos

Questa 38

800-587-2240, www.sipapunm.com Snow report: 800-587-2240 Scheduled season: Nov. 12-14, Nov. 18-28; daily operations Dec. 2-March 26, then weekends only through April 9.

Distance from Santa Fe: 60 miles Travel time: 90 minutes Lifts and runs: One quad chairlift, two triples, one platter lift and two Magic Carpets servicing 41 trails (20 percent beginner, 40 percent intermediate, 25 percent advanced and 15 percent expert) Lift tickets: Adult, full day $44, half day $33; teens (13-20), full day $37, half day $28; juniors (7-12), full day $29, half day $22; seniors (61-69), full day $29, half day $22. Free for children age 6 and younger, fourth- and fifth-graders, 40-year-olds, 60-year-olds and seniors over 70. Season passes and other discounts are available.

Elevation: 8,200 feet at base; 9,255 at summit; 1,055-foot vertical drop Snow: Average annual snowfall 190 inches; snow making on 70 percent of the mountain Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants and multiple terrain parks Child care: None; children’s ski school Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to N.M. 75. Proceed for about 20 miles east through Peñasco, Vadito and Placitas to N.M. 518, and travel east (right) for five miles.

Sandia Peak Sandia Peak Tramway

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Tramway Road

Sipapu Ski Resort

536

Embudo

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From U.S. 84/285

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75

Velarde 76

From Carrizozo

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575-464-3600, www.skiapache.com Snow report: 575-464-1234 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving to Easter weekend Distance from Santa Fe: 200 miles Travel time: Four and a half hours Lifts and runs: One eight-passenger gondola (installed in 2013), eight chairlifts and one surface lift servicing 55 trails (20 percent expert, 60 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner) Lift tickets: Adults, full day $68, half day $49; teens (13-17), full day $59, half day $42; children (12 and younger), full day $48, half day $35; seniors (70 and older) full day $61, half day $44. Military adults $57, military child $43. Season passes and early season discounts available.

Elevation: 9,600 feet at base; 11,400 feet at top of chair; 1,800-foot vertical drop Snow: Average annual snowfall 180 inches; snow making on about 30 percent of the runs, including one from the summit Facilities: Terrain park, major winter zipline, lessons, rentals, restaurant, bar, small slot-machine center Child care: Day care available, reservations suggested; plus Adventure Center for kids ages 4-11.

Directions from Santa Fe: Take Interstate 25 north to Eldorado exit, then south on U.S. 285 to Encino, then south on N.M. 3 to Duran, then southwest on U.S. 54 through Corona to Carrizozo, then east on U.S. 380 for eight miles, then south on N.M. 37, then right on N.M. 48 to Alto, and finally right on N.M. 532 for 12 miles to the ski area. Last leg requires four-wheel drive during storms.

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Pilar

Dixon

Ski Apache

37

Ski Apache Black Lake

Sierra Blanca

505-242-9052, www.sandiapeak.com Snow report: 505-857-8977 Scheduled season: Dec. 17 to Jan. 3 daily; Jan. 4 to March 16 weekends and holidays Distance from Santa Fe: 66 miles Travel time: One hour (via Interstate 25 and Sandia Peak Tram) Lifts and runs: Four chairlifts, one surface lift and one tramway servicing 30 trails (10 percent expert, 55 percent intermediate, 35 percent beginner) Lift tickets: Adult, full day $55, half day $40; students (13-23), full day $45, half day $35; seniors (62-71), full day $45, half day $35; children (6-12), full day $40, half day $30; seniors (62-71), full day $45. Free for seniors 72 and older and children under 46 inches tall in ski boots. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available.

Elevation: 8,678 feet at base; summit, 10,378 feet; 1,700-foot vertical drop Snow: Average annual snowfall 125 inches; snow making on 15 percent of the mountain Facilities: Snow Sports School, rentals, Skier’s Café, terrain park Child care: Cubby Corner for kids ages 4-6 and children’s ski school Directions from Santa Fe: To reach the tramway, take Interstate 25 south to Albuquerque, exit onto Tramway Road (Exit 234) and drive east six miles to Sandia Peak Tram base. To reach the base lodge (beginner and intermediate trails), take N.M. 14 south toward Cedar Crest and turn onto N.M. 536.

Rio

575-754-2223, www.redriverskiarea.com Snow report: 575-754-2223 Scheduled season: Nov. 23-Nov.27 (weekends only until Dec. 9) Closing day March 19 Distance from Santa Fe: 110 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Lifts and runs: One quad chair, three triples, one double and two surface lifts servicing 57 trails (30 percent advanced, 38 percent intermediate, 32 percent beginner) Lift tickets: Adult, full day $68, half day $53; teens (13-19), full day $62, half day $48; juniors (4-12), full day $52, half day $38; seniors (65-69), full day $52, half day $38; free for children 3 and younger and seniors 70 and older. Group rates for 20 or more skiers and other discounts available; call or visit website.

Elevation: 8,750 feet at base; 10,350 feet at summit; 1,600-foot vertical drop Snow: Average annual snowfall 215 inches, snow making on 85 percent of the mountain Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurants, bars, quality terrain park, Snow Coach dinners; extensive lodging in town Child care: Buckaroo Day Care center Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos, then N.M. 522 to Questa. Turn right (east) on N.M. 38 and proceed about 12 miles to the town of Red River.

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575-754-6112 www.enchantedforestxc.com Snow report: 575-754-6112 Scheduled season: Late November to late March Distance from Santa Fe: 120 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Trails: Up to 33 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails (10 percent advanced/expert, 55 percent intermediate, 35 percent beginner), plus 18 kilometers for snowshoeing and ICE. where dogs are allowed kilometers CH5 O Trail passes: Adults, full day $16, afternoon only $13; seniors (62-69) and teens (13-17), $15; children (7-12), $9.

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Elevation: 9,800 feet at base; 10,040 feet at summit; 240-foot vertical drop ™ Simply Amish Snow: Average annual snowfall 200 inches; no snow making Facilities: Lessons, rentals (skis and snowshoes), snack bar, warming hut, overnight rental yurts, midway warming lodge Child care: None Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Proceed north on N.M. 522 to Questa and turn onto N.M. 38 east NITURE / FURand through Red River 3.5 miles up OX CB F Bobcat Pass to entrance road on right. r loyalty.

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575-829-4100, www.vallescaldera.gov Snow report and Weatherline: 575-829-4100, option 3 Scheduled season: Daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. mid-December through mid-March Distance from Santa Fe: 65 miles Travel time: 90 minutes Trails: Some 37 miles of cross-country and snowshoeing trails, including some 11 kilometers of groomed trails (5 percent expert, 10 percent advanced, 65 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Call ahead to confirm grooming.

Admission: Reservations not required. $20 per vehicle (no per-person fees), good for seven days. The ungroomed Coyote Call Trail on the south side of N.M. 4 and some 500 acres of open terrain are available for free.

Elevation: 8,500 feet Facilities: Gift shop, warming reception area Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos. Take N.M. 4 west into the Jemez Mountains.

The preserve entrance is on the north side of the road near milepost 39. Check in at visitor center. Four-wheel drive is recommended.

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GOING CROSS COUNTRY A PSIA certifier out in a storm at Enchanted Forest.

COURTESY ELLEN GOINS

BY DANIEL GIBSON With its decent to plentiful snowfall and at least 66 peaks above 10,000 feet, New Mexico is blessed with abundant terrain suitable for cross-country skiing.

While you can see people shuffling their skinny skis through the streets of Santa Fe after a good storm, the higher mountains are the dependable sites for cross-country (XC) outings. A few regions in particular hold snow and have the right kind of landscape for the sport, and XC options are available at one full-on commercial operation and one destination in a federal reserve.

In the northern ranges, particularly the Sangre de Cristos, good skiing can be found at high elevations as early as mid-December and as late as June. As you head into the ranges south of Interstate 40, snowfall tends to taper off, as do elevations, so skiing there is dependent on the year and particular site conditions.

COMMERCIAL OPTIONS The state’s leading commercial center for XC is Enchanted Forest Cross Country & Snowshoe Area, located just outside of Red River. It has a 33-kilometer system of groomed trails that offer adventure for all skill levels, plus some lovely views of high peaks and snowbound valleys. For other details, see the ski area listings.

Another commercial option is at Angel Fire Resort, which maintains a 12k groomed trail system based at the attractive Angel Fire Country Club. The gently rolling hills and flat meadows make for a fine outing for beginner and intermediate cross-country skiers. The center offers an instruction program, plus rental gear. For details, call 575-377-4488 or visit www.angelfireresort. com/activities/.

Yet another commercial possibility is to sign up for one of the several crosscountry ski weekends presented at the educational, recreational and spiritual retreat center Ghost Ranch — located about 90 minutes northwest of Santa Fe near Abiquiú. The package includes accommodations, food and guides, and it costs at least $350 per person (double occupancy). For details, call 505-6851000 or visit www.ghostranch.org.

For a cross between a commercial operation and do-it-yourself, head to the

Valles Caldera National Preserve in the Jemez Mountains above Los Alamos.

One of the state’s most beautiful spots, the immense round basin is the bottom of a collapsed super volcano’s magma chamber, encircled by high walls. One’s sense of scale is blown here, until you spot some of the thousands of elk looking like pinpricks in its Serengeti-like plains.

The preserve has a large trail system open to cross-country skiers and snowshoers. Depending on staffing, some 14ks are groomed — but classic track is set on only a few trails. You might be required to break trail on some routes — including roads closed to winter traffic.

No rentals are available here, so you will need to bring all ski gear. And come prepared for serious cold and inclement weather, with water, snacks, fire tools, extra clothing, etc. Cell coverage is very spotty.

To get to the preserve from Santa Fe, head north out of town on U.S. 84/285 and go 16 miles to Pojoaque. Turn left (west) on N.M. 502 (Los Alamos/ Bandelier National Monument exit). Proceed 8 miles to N.M. 4 and turn south (left). You’ll pass the entrance to Bandelier National Monument. The road then begins miles of steep climbs and sharp corners, which in winter can be very tricky; four-wheel drive is highly recommended in inclement weather. At Mile Marker 39.2, turn into the preserve’s main entrance road and proceed to the visitor center (a must). The preserve road itself is plowed.

IN THE WILDS CHAMA AREA This isolated outpost on the New Mexico-Colorado frontier is the epicenter of cross-country skiing in the state. Here the snow sits deep, the wind blows cold and winter days are often dim. Just north of town rears a ridge of the mighty San Juan Range, its peaks scraping over 12,000 feet along the Continental Divide. Always New Mexico’s wettest summer spot, it also enjoys exceptional snowfall in good years.

There are numerous trails in the area for skiing, though most require you to break trail off N.M. 17 north of town. However, the Chama Valley Outdoor Club periodically grooms a trail on the north edge of town in the spectacular Sargent

W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

33

Dina Pesenson approaches the finish line in the 12k Chama race.

Heading into the backcountry near Chama on telemark skis.

Wildlife Area (take Pine Avenue/N.M. 29 one mile to the parking area), and it even organizes guided tours. For details, contact Cathy Bear at https://sites. google.com/site/chamavalleyoutdoors.

The town also hosts the state’s major annual XC festival, the Chama Chile Ski Classic. It was launched in 1973 and has grown into a nine-day extravaganza of races (classic and skating), from sprints to 18ks, as well as snowshoe races, snowbike races, live music at night, clinics, guided backcountry outings and snowshoe tours. It typically attracts more than 200 competitors and even more spectators from New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona, Utah and farther afield. It is usually held in mid-January, 12 miles north of town on Cumbres Pass, just off N.M. 17. For details on the Chama Chile Ski Classic, visit www.skichama.com.

SANTA FE AREA Located just below Ski Santa Fe, the Norski Trail is a convenient place to go cross-country skiing near town. It has some moderately pitched sections, but the trail is relatively level and suitable for beginners as well as experienced skiers. The outside loop runs 2.5 miles. Beginners can use cutoffs to reduce the length and avoid difficult sections, and faster and more experienced skiers can lap around on various loops winding through a mixed conifer and aspen forest.

The trailhead is on N.M. 475, just a mile below Ski Santa Fe. It is well marked but not regularly groomed. Snowshoeing is discouraged on the trail to preserve Nordic ski tracks.

Another popular outing is the service road that winds to the top of Tesuque Peak from Aspen Vista, a parking and scenic point on N.M. 475 just below Mile Marker 14. The road, closed to vehicles, runs 5.6 miles to the summit’s communication towers, climbing from 9,700 feet to 12,040 feet. You can go out and turn around at any point and backtrack or sample the sublime aspen forest flanking the road.

Another popular option is Pacheco Canyon Road (Forest Road 102, also closed in winter), which descends from N.M. 475 to the village of Tesuque.

Drive to its top, where it intersects the ski area road (N.M. 475) a mile above the Big Tesuque Campground, and ski down and climb back up. There also are trails and open tree skiing in the aspen and mixed conifers at Big Tesuque Campground, which usually has ample parking.

Black Canyon Campground, located in Hyde State Park (day-use fees apply), right on N.M. 475 just 10 minutes from town, is the lowest-elevation site for

PHOTOS BY KITTY LEAKEN

Nordic skiing or snowshoeing in the Santa Fe area. Due to its elevation, snow is less dependable, but in a good winter it can be very enjoyable. A hiking trail at the rear of the camping area leads to a small drainage overlooking the closed Santa Fe city watershed.

JEMEZ MOUNTAINS There are hundreds of possible routes and outings in the Jemez, including some groomed but mostly unmaintained trails. Here’s the broad picture.

The Pajarito Nordic Ski Trail sits above the city of Los Alamos, right next to the Pajarito Ski Area at the end of Camp May Road. The main ski trail climbs through a mixed conifer forest for 5 kilometers (one way), and in good snow years additional trails open. Hardworking members of the Southwest Nordic Ski Club groom the system for both classic and skating skiers under an agreement with the U.S. Forest Service. It is the only regularly groomed noncommercial Nordic ski trail in the state that is free for all to use.

Snowshoeing is allowed on designated trails. To check current conditions, visit the club’s website (www.swnskiclub.org).

Within the Jemez Ranger District are three sets of trails. The Los Griegos Trails are located about 4.6 miles west of the entrance to Valles Caldera National Preserve. The Peralta Canyon Trails are located about 1.5 miles west of the entrance to the preserve. The popular East Fork Trails are reached via a closed gate on N.M. 4 midway between the Redondo Campground and the Jemez Falls Campground.

Within the Cuba and Coyote ranger districts are more options. The southern and eastern boundaries of the San Pedro Parks Wilderness have relatively gentle slopes that make great areas for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.

The best winter access is via paved N.M. 126 east out of Cuba to Forest Road 70. Forest Road 70 is frequently not passable during winter, so you likely must gear up near this intersection. It is approximately 3 miles to the San Gregorio Trailhead on Forest Road 70.

Daniel Gibson (www.DanielBGibson.com) is the editor of this magazine, as well as Bienvenidos, Land Water People Time and other annual publications for The New Mexican. He also writes a weekly snow sports and travel column, “Snow Trax,” for the newspaper. His books include Pueblos of the Rio Grande: A Visitor’s Guide and Kevin Red Star: Crow Indian Artist.

34 WINTERLIFE 2 016-17

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El(InMuseo Cultural deFarmer’s Santa the Railyard across thelatracks fromSanta the 555 Camino de Familia, Fe, NMMarket) 87501Fe 555call: Camino de la Familia,or Santa Fe, NM 87501 Info Steve at 505-250-8969 (In the Railyard across the tracksLesley from at the760-727-8511 Farmer’s Market) El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe (In the Railyard across the tracks from the Farmer’s Market) El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe (In the Railyard tracks from the Farmer’s Market) Info call: across Steve atthe 505-250-8969 or Lesley at 760-727-8511 555 Camino de la Familia, Santa Fe, NM 87501

40 Dealers of- Fine Tribal Folk 505-989-7667 Mon-Sat 11- 6and Sun 12 -5 Furniture, Textiles and Beads Art, Jewelry, Books, Antiques, www.travelersmarket.net Art, Jewelry, Books, Antiques, DeVargas Center, (Behind Office Depot) Furniture, Textiles and Beads DeVargas Center, (Behind Depot) 40 Dealers of Fine Tribal and Folk 153B PaSEO De Peralta, Santa Fe. NM. www.travelersmarket.net Furniture, Textiles andOffice Beads 40 Dealers ofPeralta, Fine Tribal and Folk87501 153B PaSEO De Santa Fe. NM. 87501 505-989-7667 - Mon-Sat 11- 6 Sun 12 -5 www.travelersmarket.net Art, Jewelry, Books, Antiques, www.travelersmarket.net

Info call: Steve or 760-727-8511 Camino la Familia, Santa Fe,at 87501 Info555 call: Steve at atde505-250-8969 505-250-8969 or Lesley Lesley atNM 760-727-8511 Art, Jewelry, Books, Antiques, 505-989-7667 - Mon-Sat 11- 6 Sun 12 - 5 (In the Railyard across the tracks from the Farmer’s Market) Furniture, Textiles and Beads W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o 35 (In the Railyard across the tracks from the Farmer’s Market) Furniture, Textiles and Beads www.travelersmarket.net Info call: Steve at 505-250-8969 or Lesley at 760-727-8511 40 Dealers of Fine Tribal and Folk www.travelersmarket.net Info call: Steve at 505-250-8969 or Lesley at 760-727-8511

El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe El 555 Museo Cultural de Santa Fe Camino de la Familia, Santa Fe, NM 87501

40Art, Dealers of Fine Tribal and Folk Jewelry, Books, Antiques,

SAY

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TO SNOW

Eight places to escape winter weather

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PHOTOS BY KITTY LEAKEN

Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge

BY WHITNEY SPIVEY If you’re so over winter, but a trip to Hawaii is not in the cards, never fear. New Mexico and a couple of its neighboring states offer plenty of snow-free travel destinations within a four-hour drive of Santa Fe. So say goodbye to your skis, and leave your snowshoes in the garage. It’s time to hit the road!

1.

Socorro 2 hours

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Begin the day just before dawn at Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge, where thousands of geese take off en masse in search of food for the day.

Thousands of sandhill cranes lift off after the geese, and patient visitors might also see hawks and eagles or mammals such as mule deer and coyotes.

You’ve earned lunch after all that bird-watching, so drive north to San Antonio, where two restaurants fight over which one makes the best green-chile cheeseburger. Split one with your travel buddy at Buckhorn Tavern, then head down the block to Owl Café and split another one there.

Once you’ve made an informed decision about the best burger, continue north for 10 more miles until you hit the city of Socorro. Orient yourself with a walking tour through the town’s three districts:

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San Miguel, Church-McCutcheon and Kittrel ParkManzanares. The architecture never fails to impress, and if you grab local fare at La Pasadita Café, neither will the food.

2.

White Sands National Monument 3.5 hours

On the way to White Sands National Monument, stop in Carrizozo, a burgeoning arts town with brightly decorated burro statues, a cute history museum and the state’s largest photo venue, the Tularosa Basin Photo Gallery. Fuel up on sandwiches and homemade pie at Carrizozo Café, and then continue on your way to White

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FILE PHOTO

San Luis Valley, Colorado

3.

Las Cruces 4 hours

La Posta restaurant, Mesilla Sands National Monument — the largest gypsum dunefield in the world.

There are several ways to tackle this 275-squaremile park; perhaps the most enjoyable is to pick a spot off the main drag (Dunes Drive), remove your shoes, hike to the top of a dune, and then slide down the powdery gypsum on a sled or saucer (available at the visitor center if you don’t bring your own).

The more adventurous might prefer to hike or backcountry camp — as long as you don’t mind a little sand in your shoes (or everywhere, really). The park’s five established trails vary in difficulty and scenery, and they are marked with a specific colored post and symbol. The trails offer no shade, water or restrooms, so hike prepared.

If you’re nuts about pecans, grab lunch at the Pecan Grill and Brewery, which celebrates the area’s — and New Mexico’s — biggest crop. Order a pecan-crusted chile relleno, and wash it down with a pecan beer.

Take advantage of the winter sunshine and spend the afternoon outdoors. East of town, the Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument protects prehistoric, historic, geologic and biologic resources, all while offering phenomenal hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking at elevations up to 9,000 feet.

If you like watching live sports, plan your visit around a New Mexico State University athletic event. Basketball season goes until March, with plenty of exciting matchups between the Aggies and competitors.

Just across Interstate 10 from NMSU, the historic town of Mesilla has an Old World feel, thanks largely to iconic establishments like La Posta, which has been serving authentic New Mexican cuisine for more than 75 years. The hacienda-style restaurant also offers more than 20 types of margaritas!

explore the trails and wildlife that are part of the park.

Next, hop on a bison tour at the nearby 103,000-acre Zapata Ranch, which is owned by the Nature Conservancy and managed through a partnership with Ranchlands. Photograph North American Plains bison up close, and learn how the 2,000-member herd is managed.

Before heading back to Alamosa to end the day with a cold one at San Luis Valley Brewing, make a quick detour to hike to Zapata Falls, a secluded waterfall that freezes in the winter, creating a huge ice column more than 20 feet high.

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San Luis Valley, Colorado 2.5 hours

We know what you’re thinking: Colorado is cold and snowy in the winter. Which is mostly true — except on a warm day in the San Luis Valley. Kick off your visit with house-roasted espresso and a breakfast burrito at Roast, a hipster coffee joint in the notso-hipster town of Alamosa. Then drive 30 miles northeast to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, which contains 750-foot sand dunes (the nation’s highest) against a backdrop of 13,000foot mountain peaks. Hike and sled the dunes, or

W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

5 RIMA KRISST

Old Mission Church, Zuni Pueblo

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7 KITTY LEAKEN

Roswell visitors

5.

Gallup and Zuni Pueblo 3 hours

Stop by the historic Route 66 El Rancho Hotel for a hand-squeezed margarita. If you have time, sleep in the same room as your favorite old-timey movie star.

Then drive 40 miles south to Zuni Pueblo, one of New Mexico’s most traditional pueblos, where artists make and sell outstanding silver and inlaid jewelry, stone fetish carvings and pottery. Although Zuni’s 17th-century Old Mission Church — renowned for its interior murals of Zuni ceremonial figures — is closed due to disintegrating structural conditions, the nearby visitor center offers plenty of information about local archaeological and cultural tours.

Circle back to Santa Fe on U.S. 60 through Datil — which isn’t so much a town as a rock-climbing destination. The Enchanted Tower offers some of the best sport climbing, steep with big moves, in the state.

If climbing isn't your thing, return via N.M. 53 over the Continental Divide. Visit El Morro National Monument, or walk through an old-growth forest

6 La Paloma Motel, T or C

KITTY LEAKEN

and across an ancient lava flow to the Ice Cave, where ice glistens year-round in a collapsed lava tube created when an adjacent volcano erupted some 10,000 years ago.

6.

Truth or Consequences 3 hours

The Passion Pie Cafe is a cozy spot to grab a hot drink and a sweet treat before embarking on a tour of Ted Turner’s Ladder or Armendaris ranches, both located about 30 minutes from T or C (sign up at Sierra Grande Lodge in town).

Ranch guests have the opportunity to hike the Fra Cristobal Mountains; see Native petroglyphs; and photograph rare wildlife, including oryx, bison and bighorn sheep.

For a different type of adventure, the Spaceport America Visitor Center offers interactive space exhibits. Those wanting more can purchase a tour ticket and hop on the shuttle to visit the actual Spaceport America, about 32 miles southeast of town.

For a more down-to-earth experience, head the opposite direction to the Darland Company’s high-end organic balsamic vinegar farm in the tiny ghost town of Monticello. Here, balsamics are aged for at least 16 years in rare-wood Italian casks — and cost $150 for a 4.5-ounce bottle.

If Darland’s vinegar has you in the mood for Italian food, dine at Bella Luna, which offers the best pizza and pasta in T or C. End your day at Riverbend Hot Springs or any of the town’s many other commercial hot springs. Private, mineral-rich, 100-plus-degree pools overlooking the Río Grande at Riverbend offer unmatched views of Turtleback Mountain.

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8 WHITNEY SPIVEY

Petrified Forest National Park

7.

Roswell 3 hours

Roswell is probably on your radar for its alien vibes, but truth be told, you can visit the fifth-largest city in New Mexico without doing anything out of this world.

Start your visit with a breakfast sandwich and latte at Stellar Coffee Co. before visiting three great art museums: Roswell Museum and Art Center, the Anderson Museum of Contemporary Art, and The Gallery.

Break for lunch with a picnic at the Spring River Park Zoo, where residents range in size from prairie dogs to bison and admission is free. Continue the outdoor adventure 11 miles northeast of town at Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge, which serves as a winter habitat for migratory birds and also has some great hiking trails. If time and weather permit, swim, boat or even scuba dive at nearby Bottomless Lakes State Park.

Back in town, three local theater companies (Neverland, Way Way Off-Broadway and Roswell Community Little Theater) increase the likelihood that you’ll be able to catch a show before ending the day with a glass of vino at Pecos Flavor Winery’s downtown tasting room.

8.

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona 4 hours

Once a large river system with tree-lined waterways, Petrified Forest National Park is now a semiarid grassland located on Arizona’s eastern border — and home to one of the largest concentrations of petrified wood in the world.

The park sits at about 5,000 feet in the Painted Desert, which means what snow does fall during the winter doesn’t last long. Arrive via Interstate 40, and stop by the visitor center to watch the park film and learn about the area’s prehistoric people, who have a presence as far back as 13,500 B.C. Next, drive the 28 miles from one end of the park to the other. Along the way, take in the view at various overlooks and stretch your legs on several short hikes. The six-mile Red Basin Clam Beds hike, for example, offers 215-million-year-old geology, petrified wood, petroglyphs, hoodoos and fossil clam beds.

The south end of the park features the most petrified wood: When the region’s trees died more than 200 million years ago, they floated downstream to this area and formed log jams, which are the petrified “forests” in the park today.

Showing the Finest in Historic & Contemporary Pueblo Pottery

Chile

Ski Snowshoe & Combined Event Races Fat Tire Bike Race

Freestyle & Classic Cross-Country Ski Races

January 14-16, 2017 Presented by The Rotary Club of Chama Valley

44th Chama Chile Ski Classic & Winter Fiesta

Chris Youngblood: Carved Lidded Box with Koi Santa Clara Pueblo, 2016

Chama, New Mexico

Live Music, Rookie Race, Yurt & Ski Tours, Awards & more!

Register and Info: SkiChama.com

(505) 577-0835 | 640 Canyon Rd, Santa Fe, NM 87501 FOXPUEBLOPOTTERY.COM Partial funding provided by Village of Chama Lodgers' Taxes and Rio Arriba County Lodgers’ Taxes

Ride the RTD “Blue Bus” Mountain Trail route to Ski Santa F this winter and leave the driving to us!

Moun Santa

Hi

Please visit RidetheBlueBus.com or call toll-free 866-206-0754 for more information W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

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Your official holiday guide for Santa Fe YOUR OFFICIAL HOLIDAY GUIDE FOR SANTA FE

FELIZ NAVIDAD

✥ Gifts of the Magi ✥ Holiday Events ✥ King’s Cake ✥ Gift Ideas

2016 SANTA FE NEW MEXICAN

PickUP UpYOUR Your Copy PICK COPY SUNDAY 27th Sunday,NOVEMBER November 27th the inin the

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Wheelwright Museum OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN

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Center for the Study of Southwestern Jewelry An Essential New Mexico Experience

www.wheelwright.org 704 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe, NM 87505 505-982- 4636 or 1- 800 -607- 4636

Come See All the What Buzz About Is !

The most important exhibition of Native American jewelry anywhere.

Jicarilla: Home near the Heart of the World Through April 16, 2017

A major exhibition of the work of Jicarilla Apache artists, with emphasis on basketry, micaceous pottery, and beadwork.

Eveli: Energy and Significance Through January 15, 2017

The Wheelwright Museum celebrates the multicultural story of Southwestern jewelry with a retrospective of work by Eveli Sabatie, protégé of and collaborator with the great Charles Loloma.

Support for these projects is provided in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax; New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts; the Daniel and Janet Hidding Foundation; and several other donors. Photos by Addison Doty and Neebinnaukzhik Southall.

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 41

TIME TO SAVOR!

APRÈS SKI

Left, Gruet Grand Blanc de Noirs, just released. Hints of hazelnut.

Ruby arm-warmer gloves from chocolate+cashmere Right, State Capital Kitchen Parsnip Risotto.

In background, chocolate+cashmere wrap.

STORY BY JOHN VOLLERTSEN | PHOTOS BY KITTY LEAKEN

It’s been a few years since I hit the slopes, but I do love the idea of snuggling in after a rousing day in the snow and cold and refueling with a delicious meal and a couple of adult beverages. Finish it off with a brandy in front of a fireplace and you have just about a perfect day in Santa Fe winter. This year there is an assortment of new venues to feed the appetite that all that schussing has whetted, along with some old favorites I never tire of. The only requirements are a fierce hunger and your favorite comfy sweater.

Remember, today’s ski conditions were ideal; tomorrow they could be better, so eat up!

STATE CAPITAL KITCHEN, 500 Sandoval St., 505-467-8237, www.statecapitalkitchen.com If your ski buddies are also serious foodies, take them to State Capital Kitchen for chef Mark Connell’s incredibly creative cooking; it puts this newish eatery at the top of my most favorite list in 2016. For a real treat, book the Chef’s Table for an inside look at the theater, drama and skill that go into creating one of Santa Fe’s most exciting dining spots. Let Connell order for you, and experience his bursts of flavor in dishes like his divine parsnip risotto or heavenly house-made papperdelle with rabbit confit. There is a real buzz here, and the handsome art gallery-esque setting makes you forget this was ever a Pizza Hut. Connell is an avid skier, so you might just see him up on the mountain before you eat!

GRUET TASTING ROOM, St. Francis Hotel, 210 Don Gaspar Ave., www.gruetwinery.com If champagne is more to your liking than hot toddies and glogg, head over to the Hotel St. Francis’ new Gruet Tasting Room and let bubbles tickle your nose and warm you up! Gruet is, of course, New Mexico’s premier sparkling Méthode Champenoise and graces wine lists all over the country. The stylish décor creates a comfortable setting in which to enjoy a quick sample, a flight of five Gruet products, or what the heck — share a whole bottle. The room is open daily, late morning to early evening, depending on the day.

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WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 43

Above, Rio Chama Cheese Fondue. Blanket poncho with pom-poms from chocolate+cashmere Right, Café Sonder Fisherman’s Stew with saffron aioli croutons

CAFÉ SONDER, 326 S. Guadalupe St., 505-982-9170, www.cafesonder.com The newest addition to the farm-to-table restaurant movement is happening at a recently revamped establishment, appropriately just steps from the Santa Fe Farmers Market. Café Sonder, which replaces the long-running Zia Diner, is the brainchild of the Razatos family, creators of another veteran Santa Fe institution, The Plaza Café. Chef Jon Helquist, who comes to town via a tenure that included stops at the famous Chez Panisse and Oliveto, will focus on sourcing the best of local ingredients while keeping an eye on pricing. The redesign is dramatic and modern, with polished wood floors and plastered columns dressing up the main dining room beautifully. Helquist’s menu offers a small plate/big plate format with touches of California cuisine served happily beside some French-influenced dishes like rabbit terrine and crispy duck confit. Kill the chill of the slopes with the fisherman’s stew chock full of shrimp, cod, calamari and clams, or the braised oxtails on creamy polenta with red wine sauce. Breakfast is served from a counter menu for in-house dining or grab-and-go as you head up the mountain. It’s great to see this prime location reborn.

RIO CHAMA STEAKHOUSE, 414 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-955-0765, www.riochamasteakhouse.com There are some, including me, who don’t feel it’s a true après-ski experience without a bubbling pot of fondue. If that’s you, head to Rio Chama and order their yummy version — a blend of six cheeses swirled with white wine and amber ale and sided with bread cubes, apples and veggies for dunking. There is a roaring fire in the bar and some of the dining rooms, as well as giant TV for catching sports should you be skipping the slopes for the big game. Meat and ribs, of course, fill out the lengthy menu; chef Tony Blankenship’s 48-hour-brined prime rib is just about the most memorable slab of cow you’ll enjoy this winter.

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CAFÉ GRAZIE Homestyle Italian & Mediterranean Cuisine Vegetarian & Gluten Free Options

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Monday - Saturday • 11:00am - 9:00pm Sunday • 10:00am - 3:00pm

3530 Zafarano C-3 | Santa Fe | (505) 471-0108 | www.cafegrazie.net

...crazy about consignment always something new…

A CONSIGNMENT A CONSIGNMENT BOUTIQUE | NEW BOUTIQUE – VINTAGE | NEW – RESALE – VINTAGE – RESALE Clothing, Accessories, Clothing, Jewelry, Accessories, Gifts, Collectibles Jewelry, Gifts, Collectibles HOURS : MONDAY– HOURS SATURDAY : MONDAY– SATURDAY 11- 6 | SUNDAY 10 - 4 3918 Rodeo Road3918 | Santa Rodeo Fe | (505) Road570 | Santa – 4000 Fe | (505) 570 – 4000 www.facebook.com/bohemiac.santafe www.facebook.com/bohemiac.santafe

Charcuterie Plate and Laura Licona at 401.

Turquoise beret from chocolate+cashmere

401, 401 S. Guadalupe St., 505-989-3297, www.401santafe.com

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If I had to eat one dish every night all winter long it would be chef Laura Licona’s gnocchi with pesto, or her papperdelle Bolognaise, or her everevolving charcuterie plate, or her decadent tiramisu. What tough choices! This casual dining establishment, opened last summer, immediately found devoted fans thanks to the chef’s confident use of bold flavor and steady hand with salt.

Pocket-friendly prices and a neighborhood feel have put it on my oft-visited restaurant list. Pace yourself; be kind to the chairlift in the morning.

John Vollertsen (aka Chef Johnny Vee) is director of the Las Cosas Cooking School.

He teaches cooking classes around the country and is also the author of Cooking With Johnny Vee, now in its second edition. John also mentors children in the art of cooking with the “Cooking With Kids” program in the public schools and with the Santa Fe Teen Shelter’s Access program.

Skiers descend from the slopes in search of good food and a crackling fire. Creative director Deborah Villa and photographer Kitty Leaken wanted to bring a warm feeling to the savory dishes in this story with cozy props generously provided by chocolate + cashmere. Soft, functionally luxurious hats and just about every kind of body accessory can be found there in many exquisite colors. Golightly Cashmere houses its knitting mill in downtown Santa Fe, and everything in the store, including 24 varieties of chocolate, is locally made. chocolate + cashmere, 109 E. Palace Ave. 505-989-3887 or www.chocolatecashmere.com.

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Our location on the Plaza also has museum quality antique and contemporary Native art

Mother & Daughter BIRD JAR

by Martina Vigil & Florentio Montoya

ABSTRACT OLLA

by Tonia Peña Vigil

LEGENDARY MASTER WEAVER Daisy Taugelchee u 44” x 61” Featured at The Antique American Indian Art Show Santa Fe, August 16-19, 2016 u c. 1910, 9.5” x 10” Bird Martina Montoya u Florentio BirdJar Jarby c. 1910, 9.5” Vigil x 10” & Abstract Olla c. 1897-1903, 8.5” x 10.5” Abstract Olla by Tonia Peña Vigil u c. 1897-1903, 8.5” x 10.5”

Cheyenne Eagle reversible jacket

Native Jackets u On The Plaza u 66 East San Francisco Street Suite 11 u Santa Fe, New Mexico 888-420-0005 u www.NativeJackets.com W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

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PUEBLO DANCE REGALIA

THREADED in

TIME STORY BY ROSEMARY DIAZ | PHOTOS BY RIMA KRISST Since the first meeting of moccasin to earth so long ago, dance has been at the center of Native American culture. If not the oldest form of human expression, it is certainly among the most visually powerful and spiritually moving. Nowhere is this more vividly true than with the winter dances of New Mexico’s Pueblo Indians, wherein the stories of the people are told not only through choreography and chorus but also through fittingly resplendent, occasion- and season-specific attire.

From head to toe, each of the objects worn is symbolic of the people’s close relationship with the natural environment. Their respective elemental and energetic properties are believed to transfer directly to the dancers, ensuring both the mental and physical fortitude required to complete the prayer. Antler, stone, shell, feather, hide, bough and branch — even the simple gourd plucked from its plump, winding vine — are all elevated to instruments of the sacred through the ritual of setting step to song.

As each season folds into the next, the Pueblo yearly dance calendar unfolds accordingly. When winter’s first frosts cover the land, antelope, buffalo, deer and elk will appear to once again offer sustenance to the people. The dances to honor their role in our continued survival will soon follow. The colder months will also bring dances that originated afar: The Comanche dance, a colorful and boisterous reenactment — complete with Plains-style eagle-feather headdresses, loin cloths, moccasins and decorated staffs — pays homage to the northern tribes; the dance of the Matachines celebrates a holiday tradition steeped in Spanish-Moorish Christian history, its masked and ribboned performers recalling a sense of mystery that surely enshrouded its earliest versions centuries ago.

Here, in anticipation of the coming season of celebration, is a winter dance reflection.

It was Amtrak’s Southwest Chief that brought me home, back to Kha’a Po’o Owingeh (Santa Clara Pueblo), that Christmas. Back over long stretches of grass-covered prairies; back through deep, twisting canyons carved by time from smooth, red sand; back into the thick, low-lying clouds of the high desert; back to Ko’o yoni’i.

Ko’o yoni’i refers to the Christmas Eve dances at the Tewa pueblos of the Río Grande Valley, performed in formal observation of the Catholic nativity.

Specifically, it includes a downsized version of the Buffalo Dance, composed of just two buffalo and one maiden, their accompanying drummers and singers, and several chaperones charged with such tasks as the retrieval of a fallen feather, the adjustment of a leaning headpiece, or the retying of an unraveling buckskin legging.

At sundown, when the scent of bonfires lit from carefully stacked pieces of cedar fills the cool air, the group begins its procession through the village, stopping house to house to offer the sacred prayer of the dance to those within. Ours was among those to receive the blessing of the great buffalo that year. And we were among the blessed.

Enter the bringers of this solemn request for the Creator’s continued blessings. Moving in time with deep, resounding drums, which guide the

Photos published with permission of the Ohkay Owingeh Office of the Governor

Facing page: Christopher “Dino” Gipson (Ohkay Owingeh), Comanche Dance, 2016 Above: Lauren Maestas-Chavez (Ohkay Owingeh), Comanche Dance, 2016

dancers’ steps through the ancient songs, the smooth, obsidian-colored buffalo horns worn by the male dancers reflect the faint light of an evening fire. Lightning bolt-shaped arrows promise future thunderstorms for plentiful crops. With each back-and-forth and up-and-down motion, elk bone chokers and strands of coral, jet, turquoise and finely carved heishi strike against the dancers’ chests, adding yet another percussive dimension to the already complex acoustic arrangements of the drums and gourd rattles; otter hide pelts adorned with inlaid clamshell medallions and worn over the torso also become part of the rhythm, swaying to and fro with every step to reveal the importance of the waterborne within the Tewa belief system. Silver or brass bells tied around the legs just below the knee recall the sound of life-giving rain; strips of skunk fur sewn onto broadcloth backings and worn about the ankles give nod to the creatures that forage and find resource in the land and soften the forceful steps to ensure a respectful landing of foot upon floor.

The dancers’ white kilts and mantas (traditional Tewa dresses) are made from finely woven wool with black or red borders to symbolize the winter snow-covered land and the lifeline of the Tewa people who subsist there.

Black lamb’s wool fringe obscures the maiden’s eyes; her high-stepping motions are light and delicate. Macaw feathers fastened onto evergreen headdresses explode in arcs of blue, green, orange and gold; their soft tips brush across our foreheads as we stand against the smooth adobe wall taking in the visual prayer, breathing in its life-affirming essence, becoming part of its sacred resonations.

When the last drumbeat sounds and the dancers’ final steps land in unison, the prayer is complete. Stepping back into the cedar-scented night, they become silhouettes against a twinkling of snow. And Ko’o yoni’i becomes memory again.

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WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 49

Custom Jewelry Expert Jewelry Repair •

PUEBLO WINTER DANCE CALENDAR Dec. 11: Vespers and procession at Pojoaque Pueblo; 6 p.m.

Dec. 12: Our Lady of Guadalupe Feast Day with Bow and Arrow, Buffalo and various other dances at Pojoaque and Tesuque Pueblos.

Dec. 24: Sundown torchlight Procession of the Virgin with vespers and Matachines Dances at Ohkay Owingeh, Picuris, Santa Ana and Taos Pueblos; Antelope, Buffalo and Deer Dances at Nambé Pueblo.

Dec. 25: Christmas Day celebrations with Matachines and various other Dances at Cochiti, Picuris, Santa Clara, Santo Domingo, San Ildefonso, Taos, Tesuque and Ohkay Owingeh Pueblos.

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Dec. 26: Turtle Dance at Ohkay Owingeh.

Dec. 28: Holy Innocents Day with children’s dances at Picuris and Santa Clara Pueblos.

Jan. 1: Transferring of the Canes, symbolizing the transfer of authority to newly elected governors and tribal chairmen, with various dances at most Pueblos; Turtle Dance at Taos Pueblo.

Jan. 6: King’s Day celebration with Antelope, Buffalo and/or Deer Dances at most Pueblos; Buffalo or Deer Dances at Nambé Pueblo; Deer or Elk Dances at Picuris Pueblo.

Jan 22: Evening firelight dances at San Ildefonso Pueblo.

Jan. 23: San Ildefonso Pueblo Feast Day with Comanche, Buffalo and Deer Dances.

Jan. 25: St. Paul’s Feast Day with various dances at Ohkay Owingeh and Picuris Pueblo.

Jan. 28: Holy Innocents Day with children’s dances at Picuris and Santa Clara Pueblos.

Hours: 7 am - 7 pm Weekdays, 7 am to 9 pm Friday & Saturday

Feb. 2: Candelaria Day celebration with various dances at Picuris Pueblo.

3470 Zafarano Dr | (505) 473-3615

Second week in February: Deer Dances at Ohkay Owingeh.

tribescoffeehousesantafe.com

Feb. 22-23: San Ildefonso Feast Days with various dances at San Ildefonso Pueblo.

“Holding your hand through the entire process” Easter Weekend: Easter celebration with Basket and Corn Dances at most Pueblos; Bow and Arrow Dance at Nambé Pueblo, Ohkay Owingeh and San “Holding your Ildefonso Pueblos.

• Over 20 Years Experience “Holding your hand through the entire process” hand through the Expert Personalized | Service & Instruction CONTACTS • Over 20 Years Experience For more information and to confirm dates and specifics for each Pueblo, entire process” visitors should call ahead.

“Holding your hand through the entire process” Expert Personalized | Service & Instruction • No “Geek Speak” Cochiti Pueblo: 505-465-2244 or www.pueblodecochiti.org

• Over 20 Years Experience

Jemez Pueblo: 575-834-7235 or www.jemezpueblo.org Home or Office | Onsite Repairs Expert Personalized | Service & Instruction • No “Geek Speak” Nambé Pueblo: 505-455-2036/505-455-4400 or nambepueblo.org

Owingeh: 505-852-4400 or www.indianpueblo.org/19pueblos/ • Ohkay No “Geek Speak” Home or Office | Onsite Repairs

Home or Office | Onsite Repairs • Same Day Service ohkayowingeh.html

Picuris Pueblo: 575-587-2519 or www.picurispueblo.org

• Same Day Service Pojoaque Pueblo: 505-455-2278/505-455-3460 or www.pojoaque.org • Same Day Service PC or Mac | iPhones & iPads PC or Mac | iPhones & iPads

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Santo Domingo Pueblo: 505-465-2214 or www.santodomingtribe.com Taos Pueblo: 575-758-1028/575-758-9593 or www.taospueblo.com

Tesuque Pueblo: 505-983-2667 or www.newmexico.org/tesuque-pueblo Additional details — including important tips on appropriate behavior when attending Pueblo dances — are available through the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center: 505-843-7270/800-766-4405 or www.indianpueblo.org.

RoseMary Diaz (Santa Clara Pueblo) is a freelance writer based in Santa Fe. Having spent much of her childhood at Santa Clara, she has attended and participated in feast day and other traditional dance celebrations for as long as she can remember. Her work has appeared in numerous publications.

50 WINTERLIFE 2 016-17

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W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

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Leo Valledor Milespace, 1980 Acrylic on canvas 60 x 48 inches © Estate of Leo Valledor

Mario Yrisarry First Forty Niner, 1966 Acrylic on canvas 82 x 68 inches © Mario Yrisarry

DAVID RICHARD GALLERY

DAVID RICHARD GALLERY

BY ELLEN BERKOVITCH

INTROSPECTION +

Winter in New Mexico is rarely colored gray for long. The mountains emerge into view after storms, painting chromatic shapes and shadows on the sky.

Against this light-shot backdrop, art galleries tend to be quieter than during summer. Many host group exhibitions curated from solo shows held earlier.

Others present shows that may have taken years to assemble or that represent seasons of nurturing an artist’s development. Still other galleries present artisans who design objects across ranges of scale and materials. Winter in Santa Fe may be a more reflective time of year than summer, but introspection pairs well with deep looking.

PARK PLACE GALLERY AND FRIENDS FEB. 3-MARCH 17 DAVID RICHARD GALLERY

1570 Pacheco St., 505-983-9555, www.davidrichardgallery.com Fifty years after Op Art and hard-edge painting etched their mind-expanding contours into New York’s experimental art scene, works by some of the original

painters who formed SoHo’s first cooperative gallery in New York City in 1963 are being reassembled at David Richard Gallery this winter.

When Park Place Gallery and Friends opens at David Richard Gallery on Feb. 3, it will remember a bright light in an art epoch that has had lasting influences. Park Place Gallery lasted only from 1963 to 1968, but its founders and their friends have proved enduringly influential.

The exhibition has been three years in the making for David Richard Gallery, co-directed by David Eichholtz and Richard Barger. Park Place’s founding members Ed Ruda and Leo Valledor headline the show, but it it also includes work by gallery “friends” such as Patsy Krebs, Mario Yrisarry, Robert Swain and Ronnie Landfield.

The exhibit of paintings will weave through David Richard’s low-slung modernist rooms fronting Pacheco Street.

Paintings by Leo Valledor sing the impulse electric. Valledor, a Filipino-American painter, first exhibited shaped canvases alongside peers Sol LeWitt and Donald Judd in 1964. While art historians disagree about whether Valledor’s closer stylistic comparison is to Frank Stella or Ellsworth Kelly, all agree that his interest was color’s ability to carve out dimension in space. Valledor died in California in 1989; Richard represents his estate.

Ruda’s “band” paintings have been described as efforts to reconcile incongruities

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Claire Kahn Necklace Crocheted cylindrical glass beads in warm and cool neutrals 43 inches long

Claire Kahn Necklace Cylindrical glass beads in royal blue, gray-blue, gray, bronze and white with a line of round lapis lazuli beads alternating with faceted silver nuggets 43 inches long

PATINA GALLERY

PATINA GALLERY

COOL EXPRESSION between minimalism and gestural abstraction. Ruda found his voice at Park Place.

His work was included in Systemic Painting (1966) at the Guggenheim and in the 1969 and 1973 editions of the Whitney Museum of American Art Biennial.

For their friends, the material identifiers of geometric and Op Art were riffs on the major chords: mink-smooth color; geometrically shaped canvases; transitions made with a hard line; artworks conversing across the room.

Brightness and bigness often went hand in hand. The artists were not afraid to talk about space, indeed suggesting that their paintings, sculptures and hanging motifs explored its mathematical and cosmic dimensions. Today one might think back to this as a time when previously unfathomables like “space travel” and “time warps” were bullet-training through New York, leaving conformity in the rear view.

Look in this exhibition to see the use of methods and materials, including airbrush and acrylic, which were new and far more plastic than anything before.

Starting in 1963, the SoHo collective took to opening “shows” when somebody had something new to show everybody else. There was never enough money, so five early collectors — including J. Patrick Lannan, the progenitor of today’s Lannan Foundation — agreed to pay a fixed sum to support the gallery after 1964. The return on investment was that the collectors got one work each year by each of the artists, chosen by mutual agreement.

Artists’ processes color a serene season

Also of note were management’s bona fides. The first “director” was John Gibson, followed by Paula Cooper. Cooper hung out her first gallery shingle in 1968 and has been synonymous with American minimalism and conceptualism ever since.

Eichholtz notes, “I find the whole thing fascinating, because it was one of the first galleries in SoHo. It gave rise to so many important people, and so many important people exhibited there.”

This show also transitions closer to the present day with work by “friend” Krebs, who lives and works in Colorado now, illustrating that the ideas of the group just keep on keeping on.

PEACEABLE KINGDOM: CLAIRE KAHN’S NEW MEXICO DEC. 16-JAN. 15 PATINA GALLERY

131 W. Palace Ave., 505-986-3432, www.patina-gallery.com Claire Kahn designed the dancing water fountain at the Bellagio in Las Vegas. Think pattern, refraction, fluidity. Now have a look down into a case at Patina Gallery and at Kahn’s twisty necklace forms. They scale to the size of the human body, specifically a woman’s neck, for which Kahn’s jewelry reflects tactile pleasure and

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Alison Keogh Pixels #9, 2016 Graphite and sumi ink on paper 22 x 22 inches

WILLIAM SIEGAL GALLERY

versatility as a fashion object.

It’s also tempting to look at Kahn’s work and think something obvious like: “I see a snake.” But Kahn considers the snake analogy reductive — even a “dumbing-down.”

For Kahn, a typical necklace is 43 inches long. Yes, count that as three and a half feet. She crochets her long loops by hand. In a typical loop necklace the artist will apply 5,000 beads with a crochet needle. She calls the pieces “infinity ropes.”

When Peaceable Kingdom: Claire Kahn’s New Mexico opens on Dec. 16, viewers may notice subtle changes to the artist’s palette given her 2016 move from the watery blue Bay Area to the bone-colored sandstone and crimson surrounds of Jacona in Northern New Mexico.

When the wearer twists and adjusts her ropes, the facets perform a lot like that dancing fountain at Bellagio.

Preston Singletary Red Eagle Blown and sand-carved glass 25 x 14 inches

BLUE RAIN GALLERY

NEW WORKS IN GLASS BY PRESTON SINGLETARY APRIL 7-29 BLUE RAIN GALLERY (Railyard)

544 S. Guadalupe St., 505-954-9902, www.blueraingallery.com

OTHER NOTABLE SHOWS

Last summer at Blue Rain Gallery’s downtown location, Preston Singletary’s blown and sand-carved glass sculpture took on a new color: celadon. The coolness of green in a work with as visceral a body as Supernatural Raven was surprising and delightful. The Tlingit artist works in Seattle. He has begun to exhibit cast glass as well as the blown columnar totems and figural work for which he is well-known.

This exhibit will be held at Blue Rain’s Railyard location.

ALISON KEOGH: PIXELS SEPT. 30-DEC. 6 WILLIAM SIEGAL GALLERY

540 S. Guadalupe St., 505-820-3300, www.williamsiegal.com Alison Keogh: Pixels is the artist’s fourth exhibition at William Siegal Gallery.

Keogh’s work is notably free-ranging in its ambitions, at once nimble, elegant and unclassifiable. Simply put, Keogh applies ink to very small, regular patches of paper.

Assembled into frames, the squares constitute a gestalt of large grids in which the gesture of the moment becomes part of an aesthetic effort to both identify and construct pattern. Keogh’s first “accident” of where a mark or drip lands becomes an exercise in building up landscapes and mindscapes out of repetition and chance.

You might see undulating water or the anxious blips of an electroencephalogram.

ANTHONY HASSETT (OPENS DEC. 2) PHIL SPACE

1410 Second St., 505-983-7945, www.philspacesantafe.com Novel work — graphic books in the vein of Japanese manga imagery — offers some winter visual sizzle, often sexualized. For examples, view the website anthonyhassett.com/X/Home.html.

54 WINTERLIFE 2 016-17

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SCHEINBAUM & RUSSEK LTD. GOD BLESS THE CHILD NOV. 19-DEC. 31 SCHEINBAUM & RUSSEK LTD. (by appointment) 505-988-5116, www.photographydealers.com

The title of this exhibition, God Bless the Child, comes from the name of a C-print with sandblasted text on its glass by MacArthur Award-winner Carrie Mae Weems. The photograph is a complex meditation on race and identity through a daguerreotype-shaped portrait of a young black girl wearing a white headband and dress. It was part of the 1996 series From here I saw what happened and I cried.

Work by other notable photographers for whom childhood is merely a declarative identifier of small people in suffering is one aspect of this show, which also includes Brazilian human-rights photographer Sebastiao Salgado. There is also meditative work, such as Sally Mann’s portrait of her three children, their faces ghostly as they emerge from a milk bath.

Ellen Berkovitch is news director of KSFR-FM 101.1, Santa Fe public radio. She is a longtime arts journalist and arts journalism entrepreneur who founded the West’s first online contemporary art magazine, AdobeAirstream.com, in 2009. This year she has published articles in The Atlantic, New Mexico Magazine and Art Jewelry Forum.

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WE’VE GOT FAITH IN KIDS! The United Church of Santa Fe Join our children and youth programs this winter!

Sunday Mornings: • Children’s Exploration with stories, art, and service projects—8:30 & 11:00 • Youth and Children’s Choirs—10:00 • Youth “Initiation to Adulthood”—9:45 • “Young Adventurers” (5th/6th)—11:00

Rev. Talitha Arnold, Sr. Minister • Rachel Baker, Children’s Ministry Mike Buttram, Community and Youth Ministries, Youth Choir Russell Fletcher, Children’s Choir “Love God. Love Neighbor. Love Creation.”

THE UNITED CHURCH OF SANTA FE

1804 Arroyo Chamiso (at St. Michaels Drive, near the hospital) 988-3295 | www.UnitedChurchofSantaFe.org

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Plates by Anu Penttinen. Designed in residence at the Bullseye Glass Co. factory studios in Portland, Oregon, 2015.

56 WINTERLIFE 2 016-17

INSIGHTFOTO.COM

The Barber of Seville presented by Performance Santa Fe.

The Pirates of Penzance presented by Performance Santa Fe.

SEASONAL SPLENDOR Winter brings song and dance to Santa Fe stages

BY CRAIG SMITH High summer is a busy performance time in Santa Fe, but so is the winter season. The months of November, December and January especially offer a wide array of classical music and dance events, from ballet and symphonic to chamber music and choral.

One of the notable annual offerings around the first of the year is Performance Santa Fe’s annual family opera. Each January, the production reaches hundreds of children and adults as an educational outreach activity.

Admission is free, though reservations are required through the organization office. The opera is also presented free of charge to all third-grade students in Santa Fe Public Schools.

The opera is performed in the historic Scottish Rite Center in downtown Santa Fe at 463 Paseo de Peralta. This local landmark opened in 1912, the year New Mexico became a state. Inspired by the Alhambra in Granada, Spain, its theater still possesses the original stage machinery and scenery hangings that were installed more than a century ago.

“The idea has always been to bring professional singers to Santa Fe for a fully staged, costumed and lit production that would be family friendly,” says Performance Santa Fe artistic director Joseph Illick. “It is sung in English and cut down to about one hour. The chorus parts and some small parts are played by members of our EPIK Artist Program.”

Gian-Carlo Menotti’s Amahl and the Night Visitors was the first production in the Family Opera Series some eight years ago. Since then, Performance Santa Fe has also presented Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel twice, plus Mozart’s The Magic Flute, Rossini’s The Barber of Seville, Massenet’s Cinderella and Gilbert and Sullivan’s The Pirates of Penzance. This year’s opera is Gilbert and Sullivan’s The Mikado.

“We choose pieces for their beautiful music, which includes most operas,” Illick notes, “and we choose happy pieces, which excludes most operas — the witch is, of course, burnt to a crisp in Hansel and Gretel, but nobody minds that! I cut parts that don’t move the story along, so our abridged operas are

fairly action-packed.

“This year we are bringing Jonathan Blalock as Nanki-Poo, Adelaide Boedecker as Yum-Yum, Samuel Schultz as Ko-Ko, Robert Kerr as Pooh-Bah, Zachary James as the Mikado and Melissa Parks as Katisha.”

For more information, call PSF at 505-984-8759 or visit www. performancesantafe.org. The organization is celebrating its 80th season in 2016-2017.

Serenata of Santa Fe, which was inaugurated in 1987 and will soon celebrate its 30th season, has an unusual concert on offer in mid-January. Titled Harmonic Divergents, it features music by classical composers Richard Strauss, Carl Nielsen and Reinhold Glière, plus contemporary American composers Mark O’Conner and Kenji Bunch.

“My hope in this program of divergent composers and works is that the audience will experience the different directions [in which] these selections of music can take us,” explains Serenata director and oboist Pamela Epple. “This is music that does not fit neatly into categories but has many aptitudes that diverge from the norm.”

The performers are a cross-section of Northern New Mexico favorites: violinist David Felberg, cellist Dana Winograd, double bassist Frank Murry, clarinetist Keith Lemmons, French hornist Scott Temple and bassoonist Toni Lipton.

Specific programmed works are Bunch’s Aria for violin; Nielsen’s Serenata in vano for winds and strings; a suite by Glière; an arrangement of Strauss’ Till Eulenspiegel for violin, double bass and winds; and two O’Connor works — Poem for Carlita and his well-known Appalachia Waltz.

Serenata’s current performing home is First Presbyterian Church of Santa Fe, 208 Grant Ave. For tickets and information call 505-989-7988 or visit www.serenataofsantafe.org.

Craig Smith wrote for The Santa Fe New Mexican and its arts magazine, Pasatiempo, for many years. He has also contributed to a number of other arts publications locally and nationally. His biography of Santa Fe Opera founder John Crosby was published in May 2015.

W INTER GUIDE fo r Sa n ta Fe a n d No rth e r n New Mexic o

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PERFORMING ARTS SOCIETY

505-474-4513 www.nmperformingartssociety.org Los Pastores Sunday, Nov. 27, at 6 p.m.

Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel 50 Mount Carmel Road Internationally Certified Hypnotherapist Hypnotherapy Center for Positive Change $30-$40 at www.nmperformingartssociety.

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Lensic Performing Arts Center

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Free Family Opera: The Mikado Dress rehearsal: Wednesday, Jan. 11, 6 p.m.

Friday, Jan. 13, at 7 p.m.

Saturday, Jan. 14, at 2 p.m.

Sunday, Jan. 15, at 2 p.m.

Scottish Rite Center, 463 Paseo de Peralta Free, but reservations are required. Call the PSF office (505-984-8759) between Dec. 1 and Dec. 31

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The King’s Singers, vocal ensemble Monday, Dec. 5, at 7:30 p.m.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi 103 Cathedral Place $20-$75 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

Call for an 505-946-8977 | april@aprilfairskincare.com Roomful of Teeth, vocal ensemble appointment Call for an 505-946-8977 | Rodeo april@aprilfairskincare.com 505-946-8977 | april@aprilfairskincare.comSaturday, Jan. 21, at 7:30 p.m. today! appointment 500 Road www.aprilfairskincare.com

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi 103 Cathedral Place $20-$50 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

today!

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Notes on Music: Franz Schubert Birthday Celebration Tuesday, Jan. 31, at 7:30 p.m.

United Church of Santa Fe 1804 Arroyo Chamiso $30 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

SANTA FE PRO MUSICA

505-988-4640, www.santafepromusica.com Rhapsody in Blue: Copland, Barber, Gershwin Thursday, Dec. 29, at 7 p.m.

Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St. $20-$75 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234 Brentano String Quartet: Haydn, Hartke, Beethoven Sunday, Jan. 15, at 3 p.m.

St. Francis Auditorium, 107 W. Palace Ave. $20-$75 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234 Mozart’s Birthday Saturday, Jan. 28, at 4 p.m.

Sunday, Jan. 29, at 3 p.m.

Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St. $20-$75 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

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Calidore String Quartet Sunday, March 5, at 3 p.m.

St. Francis Auditorium New Mexico Museum of Art 107 W. Palace Ave. $20-$75 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

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505-983-1414 www.santafesymphony.org Handel’s Messiah Saturday, Nov. 19, at 7 p.m.

Sunday, Nov. 20, at 4 p.m.

Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St. $22-$80 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

Carols and Choruses 7 p.m. Friday, Dec. 2, at 7 p.m.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi 103 Cathedral Place Free Sibelius, Mozart and Brahms Sunday, Jan. 22, at 4 p.m.

Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St. $22-$80 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234 Guitarist Jason Vieux in Recital: Bach to Duke Ellington Thursday, Feb. 16, at 7 p.m.

Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St. $22-$80 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234 Schubert, Rodrigo and Dvorák 4 p.m. Sunday, Feb. 19 Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St. $22-$80 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

SANTA FE WOMEN’S ENSEMBLE

505-954-4922 www.sfwe.org Songs of Light and Enlightenment Friday, Dec. 9; Saturday, Dec. 10; Tuesday, Dec. 13; and Thursday, Dec. 15, at 6:30 p.m.

Loretto Chapel 207 Old Santa Fe Trail $20-$35 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234 Songs of Light and Enlightenment Saturday, Dec. 17, at 3 p.m.

Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel 50 Mount Carmel Road $25 at www.ticketssantafe.org 505-988-1234

SERENATA OF SANTA FE

505-989-7988 www.serenataofsantafe.org Harmonic Divergents: Strauss, Nielsen, Glière, O’Conner and Bunch Sunday, Jan. 15, at 3 p.m.

First Presbyterian Church 208 Grant Ave. $15-$35 at brownpapertickets.com/event/ 2582168, or by cash or check at the door Complex Stories: Bridge, Arvo Pärt, Joseph Schwantner, Rorem and Ron Strauss Sunday, Feb. 12, at 3 p.m.

First Presbyterian Church, 208 Grant Ave. $15-$35 at brownpapertickets.com/event/ 2590817, or by cash or check at the door Paris: Messiaen, Alexandra du Bois and Fauré Saturday, March 26, at 3 p.m.

First Presbyterian Church 208 Grant Ave. $15-$35 at brownpapertickets.com/event/ 2590819, or by cash or check at the door For other Christmas holiday music events, see the annual magazine Feliz Navidad.

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Climate change

Archiving Eden

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DORNITH DOHERTY

View of the bay and airport from the Svalbard Global Seed Vault (2010) Archival pigment photograph

Spurred by the completion of the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, I began Archiving Eden in 2008 as a way to explore the role of seed banks and their preservation efforts in the face of climate change and the extinction of species. I found the simultaneously optimistic and pessimistic nature of the Svalbard Vault compelling: individuals and governments from around the world are collaborating to create the first truly global botanical backup system, but also, the gravity of climate change and political instability has created the need for an inaccessible “doomsday vault” near the North Pole. In researching international seed banks further I discovered a complex web of political and economic issues surrounding these large-scale collections relating to the control of one of the world’s most basic resources.

As Archiving Eden developed, collaboration became an important facet of the project. I worked closely with biologists at the seed banks to gain special access to and understanding of the collections, and through this critical research I developed a dual approach. Documentary images in the series record the spaces and technological interventions required to store seeds and clones in a state of suspended animation. These images of architecture, technology and types of collections reveal scientific heritage and our cultural aspirations and fears, which in turn govern what is saved and why.

Dornith Doherty University Distinguished Research Professor University of North Texas, Denton | www.dornithdoherty com Special thanks go to the John Simon Guggenheim Memorial Foundation for its support and all of the dedicated Vault interior, Svalbard Global Seed Vault scientists I’ve had the honor of working with. Copyright 2011 Dornith Doherty. All rights reserved.

Archival pigment photograph

Ancient citrus collection, Italy

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Papaya collection, Cruz das Almas, Brazil

Vault interior, The Millennium Seed Bank, Sussex, England

Archival pigment photograph

Archival pigment photograph

Vault interior, National Center for Genetic Resources Preservation, Fort Collins, Colorado Archival pigment photograph

Seed vault, Kuban Experimental Station, Russia

Archival pigment photograph

Apple collection, Geneva, New York

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Archival pigment photograph

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In light of snow

BY JACK LOEFFLER Mysterious light cast by a full moon upon snow crystals in deep winter, the stillness of the moment urged forward by the sound of the Río Grande riffling past my camp — a three-forked stick lean-to covered by a poncho rendered all but invisible beneath a foot of snow. I sit just inside the open entrance transfixed by the beauty, still stunned by the ferocity of a blizzard that lasted a full day and night, then whispered into quiet oblivion less than an hour ago.

A heavy blizzard in Big Bend country, an anomaly of nature, a meteorological non sequitur this far south. The tiny Mexican village across the river is shrouded in silencia blanca. I am alone in this part of the Chihuahuan Desert, blanketed in knee-deep snow.

I take stock. My firewood is buried, my campfire long dead — impossible to keep alight during the storm. I am sufficiently garbed in sweatshirt and blue jeans, hiking boots, a fleece pullover, my ancient felt hat and my elk-hide gloves. My parka is in a closet 600 miles to the north; however, I’m wrapped in my down sleeping bag. I am not in danger of freezing. I’m not in danger at all. Rather I feel a growing happiness, a wintry ecstasy, an edge of adventure stirring in my system. It is time to re-engage with habitat.

I stuff several sticks of venison jerky and a chocolate bar into the pocket of my fleece. I check my belt for knife and flashlight and another pocket for matches. I reach for my walking stick. I am set. I needn’t carry water with tons of fresh snow in every direction. I stand up just outside my lean-to and hearken to my inner compass. Intuitively I turn left and begin to trek downstream near the bank of the river.

The night is still and cold, no sound of night bird or coyote. Orion fills the southerly sky, ever ready to defeat Taurus and thus reach the seven sisters — my own mythic interpretation. Thus I tromp through the snow lured by the faint recollection of an earlier time. I avoid vegetation that raises discernible mounds in the snow. I laugh when I register that there is no need to look for snakes or other venomous wildlife that make this habitat their homeland.

There are no monsters about.

I note the slightly arhythmic sound of my footfalls as I hike with care over a surface uneven beneath the smooth covering of knee-deep snow. I am truly awake, the hypnotic allure of the earlier blizzard now sequestered in the shadows of my consciousness. My solitude expands as I sense the absence of fellow human within the range of a hearty yell or loud, shrill whistle — or even a gunshot. There is profundity to be found in this kind of solitude, an intimation of eternity, an utter aloneness, the twinkling snow absorbing any rampant banter that might race through my mind. I am but a tiny being at large in enormous emptiness, snowbound in an unexpected adventure. I stop to take my spiritual bearings.

Looking into the firmament, I realize that I stand at some point between the macrocosm and the microcosm. The observable universe is vast, extending far beyond my ken. I recall recently reading that an estimated 100 billion or more galaxies are scattered like strings of pearls throughout the enormity of space — one galaxy for every human who has ever lived on Earth, give or take a few billion of either galaxy or human, one way or another. The edge of the observable universe is hurtling away in all directions, hidden beyond the range of the speed of light. “Trying to get away from us?” my great friend once posited.

Quantum physicists ponder the nature of the unimaginably minute, the place where the fundaments of reality are thought to exist yet elude human scrutiny.

KITTY LEAKEN

We dance on the edge of seeming parallels of infinity in a sort of universal tango whose rhythms are ever more complicated by our human speculations.

How long have I stood here with my feet buried in the snow? I register that the constellations have edged well westward since I began my trek. I see the edge of dawn to the east-southeast. The moon is lowering. My feet are cold.

The landscape is whitened by billions of snowflakes, crystals of moisture, each flake a perfect pattern of symmetry, rarely the duplicate of any other snowflake. Thousands and thousands of tons of snow lie aground in every direction. My mind is too caught up in this white crystalline ambience to imagine the magnitude of the thaw.

Yet the river will run high in a few days.

I look around me and, in spite of the snow-white camouflage, I recognize an earlier campsite where my great friend and I once had a wrestling match; we rolled over the bank and into the river, finally climbing ashore a quarter mile downstream, laughing, exhausted — no winners, no losers. It was warmer then, and we were both still alive.

I turn and begin to backtrack the way I came, imagining my late friend beside me grinning in the dawn, this mischievous philosopher-peripatetic even beyond the grave, ever challenging my speculations as we adventured through this very habitat and many others, ever engaged in the indefinable quest that comes from loving this astounding existence that is our birthright.

What a miracle to be spawned on this beautiful living planet and granted the consciousness to ponder existence while traipsing through deep snow of a winter’s night in a great desert wilderness, alone yet not alone.

Jack Loeffler is an aural historian who has lived in the northern Río Grande watershed for well over half a century. He has published numerous essays and books — including the excellent Adventures With Ed: A Portrait of Abbey — and has produced hundreds of documentary radio programs for public radio. He is currently co-curating an exhibition addressing the history of counterculture in the Southwest, scheduled to open at the New Mexico History Museum on May 14, 2017.

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