Fashion In Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design by sfomuseum

City and County of San Francisco London N. Breed, Mayor Airpor t Commission Ivar C. Satero, Airpor t Director www.flysfo.com

SFO Museum San Francisco International Airport P.O. Box 8097 San Francisco, CA 94128 sfomuseum.org

ISBN 978-0-692-71133-0

CONTENTS Preface 3 Introduction 4 Utility Chic & Military Flair

Glamour & Mobility in the Air

New Looks, New Materials, New Choices

Space Theater & The Anti-Uniform

Clear Statements & Bold Choices

Pluralism & Sporty Elegance

113

Multiples, One-pieces & Long Live Polyester

129

Daywear & Workplace Attire

153

Neo-Traditionalism, Power Dressing & Corporate Looks

191

Out of Sight Outerwear

201

The Glamour of Gloves

205

Functional & Fashionable Footwear

209

Utility & High-End Handbags

213

Uniform Checklist

216

Image Credits

222

PREFACE SFO Museum has produced a continuous program of exhibitions at San Francisco International Airport since its formation in 1980 as a division of the Airport Commission, a department of the City and County of San Francisco. Met with an enthusiastic response from the traveling public for its original exhibitions across a broad spectrum of subjects, SFO Museum continues to evolve and engage a large global audience. The exhibitions program helps to make visiting SFO a unique and memorable experience for the more than fifty-seven million annual passengers it serves and the local communities utilizing its facilities. Through partnerships with cultural institutions and private collectors from around the world, SFO Museum produces a schedule of more than forty annual exhibitions for public enjoyment and educational benefit. In addition to these ongoing relationships, SFO has developed a permanent collection focused on the history of commercial aviation. Initiated in the 1990s, this collection now includes more than one hundred and forty-thousand accessioned objects and published materials. It became available to the public in 2000 with the opening of the San Francisco Airport Commission Aviation Library and Louis A. Turpen Aviation Museum as part of SFO Museum. Used for exhibitions programming and research services, the aviation collection includes a large number of airline uniforms dating to the formative years of commercial aviation. This particular collection strength inspired the creation of the exhibition Fashion In Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design, which was presented in the Louis A. Turpen Aviation Museum at San Francisco International Airport from June 14, 2016, to January 8, 2017.

INTRODUCTION The airline uniform occupies a unique place in the history of women’s wear. For more than eighty-five years, the female passenger-service and safety professional— variably titled stewardess, hostess, and flight attendant—has been dressed in outfits designed to signify a particular role in the workplace, project the identity of their employer, and reflect prevailing fashions of the times. These sometimes-conflicting demands of singularity, diversity, and conformity have created a distinct type of attire, one that has entered the social conscience of popular culture while presenting fashion designers with remarkable challenges and creative opportunities. The seventy ensembles and accessories in Fashion In Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design present the development and design of the female airline uniform from 1930 to 2016. Beginning with anonymous in-house designs during the pre-war 1930s, they range through a period of engagement with renowned couturiers and fashion houses that produced extraordinary collections during the 1950s, ‘60s, and ‘70s, to today’s select designers who continue to keep airlines at fashion’s forefront.

Seen primarily as a part of Western fashion history, and highlighting the influences of Paris, London, Milan, New York, and Hollywood, the work of over thirty designers and fashion houses is represented in uniforms created for more than two-dozen airlines. These include Adolfo, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain, Bill Blass, Marc Bohan, Pierre Cardin, Oleg Cassini, André Courrèges, Dior, Halston, Edith Head, Stan Herman, Hermès, Macario Jiménez, Christian Lacroix, Ralph Lauren, Don Loper, Jean Louis, Hanae Mori, Jean Patou, Emilio Pucci, Ben Reig, Frank Smith, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Angelo Tarlazzi, William Travilla, and Vivienne Westwood. Their list of clients includes Aeroméxico, Air France, Air West, Alia Royal Jordanian Airlines, American Airlines, Boeing Air Transport, Braniff International Airways, Cathay Pacific Airways, Continental Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Eastern Air Lines, Hughes Airwest, Japan Airlines, Northwest Airlines, Northwest Orient Airlines, Pacific Southwest Airlines, Pan American World Airways, Qantas Airways, Trans World Airlines, Union de Transports Aériens, United Airlines, and Virgin Atlantic Airways.

UTILITY CHIC & MILITARY FLAIR From 1930 to the end of World War II, uniforms created for the small numbers of female cabin crew working in the commercial aviation industry reflected a mixture of occupational qualifications, economic conditions, and general fashion trends taking place in Europe and the Americas. One or more of these influences can be seen in a single airline outfit. The airlines initially hired only registered nurses to work as stewardesses, and the “sky nurse” look of the first uniforms projects that qualification. With a few exceptions, the masculine tailored suit dominated the styling of stewardess uniforms for much of the 1930s. This was consistent with an increase in demand for career attire as more women began entering the workplace. War in Europe brought shortages that impacted the garment industry as resources shifted to military needs. From government-mandated austerity programs arose “Utility” fashion, an era of restrained elegance that lasted well into the late 1940s. By doing more with less, however, many clothing makers made a success of pared down silhouettes with their slim lines becoming desirably chic. Airlines uniquely combined these new understated design principles with the adaptation of military detailing to their stewardess uniforms. This more closely identified the stewardess with the authoritative pilot ranks, where military-looking attire was the standard, while simultaneously acknowledging a larger fashion ideal.

Boeing Air Transport (later United Air Lines) stewardess uniform with cape 1930 Boeing’s district manager Steve Stimpson conceived of this all-season uniform for the world’s first airline stewardess, registered nurse Ellen Church (1904–65, pictured at left) who was hired in San Francisco by Boeing Air Transport (later United Air Lines). Made of wool and worn from 1930 to 1932, it combines the cape and “shower cap” tam of military nurse attire with a classic suit with double-breasted jacket and pleated, calf-length skirt. Contrasting accents on the jacket sleeve lend an air of authority. The dark green and gray color scheme coordinated with the highlights of the Boeing Model 80A aircraft livery.

United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1936 This fall and winter suit in sage green wool was worn over a vivid yellow linen blouse. The slimmer cut of the one-button jacket, with squared shoulders, deep gorge, and wide notched lapel, accentuates the blouse and the string bow tie of dark green ribbon. The straight skirt has an inverted kick pleat at the front. A sailor cap-style pillbox hat was worn with a green and yellow flat bow at the front.

United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1939 Created to coordinate with Unitedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new color scheme by in-house designer Zay Smith, this was the first uniform with a distinctly seasonal look. Worn in the summers of 1939 and 1940, it was a departure from the more masculine suit styles. The short-sleeve dress in white crepe has a point collar, a paneled below-the-knee skirt, and is belted with a blue front zipper. With the matching hat and a Mainliner Blue collarless navy wool jacket with puffed shoulders, this was a fitting ensemble for Unitedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s thriving Douglas DC-3 service.

Transcontinental & Western Air (TWA) hostess uniform 1939 TWA Eastern Division chief hostess Gladys Entrekin designed a new winter uniform in medium blue charmeen gabardine. It was first worn in 1938 at the opening of New York’s LaGuardia Airport and was sketched by pinup artist George Petty, giving it the name “Petty Girl.” This linen summer version was issued the following year and was identical except for the colors—cream with a pale blue blouse. Doublebreasted jacket buttons bear the TWA logo, and the high-sided hat, worn at a jaunty angle, features a grosgrain cockade for the insignia.

HOWARD GREER Transcontinental & Western Air (TWA) hostess uniform 1944 Hollywood fashion designer Howard Greer (1896–1974) created this fitted suit in light blue wool gabardine. It was known as the “cutout” for the openwork TWA lettering on the shoulder. The triangular jacket flap could be unbuttoned to cover the lettering, allowing the hostess to smoke or have a cocktail while off duty. With suggestions from supervisor of hostess services Ida Staggers, Greer introduced the “blou-slip,” a combined undergarment in rayon and satin that did not need constant tucking in. This style of uniform was worn until 1955.

United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1948 Issued from 1948 to 1950, the jacket sets this winter uniform apart from other uniforms. In silver-gray lightweight worsted wool, its simplified, sleeker design eliminates lapels and pocket flaps. It has a faux breast pocket and princess seams up the front with a notched collar blouse in lieu of a lapel line. Its spare elegance shows a successful approach to doing more with less as was learned during wartime shortages. Embroidered cuff ranks on the sleeve and the overseas-style hat with a dark navy band add to the uniformâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s military flair.

Cathay Pacific Airways stewardess uniform 1950 An entire generation of Cathayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uniforms, from 1946 to 1962, was presented in various shades of blue. For this uniform, worn from 1950 to 1954, a short-sleeve dress was created in Air Force blue with a navy-style box hat. Falling just five inches above the ankles, the flap pockets at the hip, brass buttons, side pleated top, and dramatic shoulder board epaulettes complete the military statement. A matching belt with a covered buckle softens the look.

GLAMOUR & MOBILITY IN THE AIR Christian Dior’s lasting influence on women’s fashion began in 1947 with the debut of his Corolle collection in Paris. An international sensation, his “new look” heralded a return to femininity and romance. Fellow Parisian Pierre Balmain and others, including Hollywood costumers, also translated evening elegance into tailored daywear and the slim-waist look steadily migrated from bespoke haute couture to the ready-to-wear lines that prevailed throughout the 1950s, particularly in the United States. Much, but not all, of the new look’s approach was embraced by airlines as the role and the image of the stewardess underwent profound transformation. As domestic and international flights overtook rail and ocean liner travel, the economy of jet service in terms of passenger cost and time dramatically raised airline numbers by 1960. In this newly mobile society, the stewardess emerged as a powerful symbol of the glamour and worldly sophistication promised by an increasingly competitive airline industry, and high fashion took to the air. Despite physical demands, uniforms became more constrictive with wasp-waist jackets that required corseting. More popular designs with semi-fitted jackets, however, soon helped meet the practical needs of the active stewardess. During this period, this unique career type, and the associated attire, began to achieve iconic status.

OLEG CASSINI Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1955 Paris-born American Oleg Cassini (1913–2006) worked in New York and Hollywood during an illustrious career that famously included serving as First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy’s official designer. In 1955, he introduced a fitted suit for TWA hostesses that was issued for five years. In a medium-brown wool for winter and a summer version in lightweight green wool, it features a collarless jacket and belted skirt. The embroidered lettering was repeated on the cotton blouse. The colors were coordinated with the cabin interiors of the airline’s Lockheed Constellation for trans-Atlantic service at the height of the propliner era.

OLEG CASSINI Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1955 Oleg Cassiniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winter uniform features a brown wool sharkskin jacket with TWA embroidered in red on the upper-right lapel. A matching straight brown skirt was worn over a white blouseslip. A brown hat with the TWA red cockade was complemented by a silver hat badge that featured the Lockheed Constellation in relief.

Northwest Orient Airlines stewardess uniform 1958 Worn from 1958 to 1964, this uniform in lightbrown synthetic blend follows the prevailing tradition of the fitted-suit design. The collarless jacket has slightly padded shoulders and fabriccovered buttons with a high closure accentuating the notched lapel of the crisp cotton blouse. The straight skirt is hemmed just below the knee. The hat, a stylized overseas cap, added to Northwestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity as an early trans-Pacific international carrier.

RAYMOND LOEWY United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1959 Considered the father of industrial design and streamlining, Paris-born American Raymond Loewy (1893–1986) created this uniform for his complete re-branding of United’s identity for the jet age. A special loom-worsted wool in a pink-beige color Loewy named Peige, was utilized for the sleek, fitted suit jacket, which has a shawl collar, raglan sleeve, and vertical side pockets. A patch with gold thread filigree sets off the jacket insignia. The notched lapel blouse is in Avoca cotton. The flat-cap style hat, known as the “sugar scoop,” topped off the outfit, which was worn until 1963.

DON LOPER Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform 1959 Hollywood impresario and celebrated Beverly Hills designer Don Loper (1906–72) added airline stewardesses to the long list of stars wearing Don Loper originals. This wool suit in Tunis Blue creates a fresh look with sharp, angular features exclaiming the aerodynamic mood of the exciting new jet age. The fitted jacket’s hourglass shape is emphasized by the slant of the triangular faux pocket flap, swept-back cuff, and partial-peaked collar boldly traced by the blouse. A matching pencil skirt with a deep kick pleat completes the silhouette, while the hat’s forward fin and white piping punctuate the statement.

CHRISTIAN DIOR Air France stewardess uniform 1962 To bring haute couture to airline uniform design, Air France engaged the House of Dior to launch its new collection in 1962 as the jet age transformed world travel. Created by chief designer Marc Bohan (b. 1926), it followed his 1961 “Slim Look.” In crisp Marceau blue natté canvas, this winter suit’s short jacket, tight at the waist yet with beltless freedom, has natural shoulders creating a clean line with the paneled skirt. The stitched flat bow of the poly-cotton Ceylon blouse graces the Peter Pan collar, and a navy velour pillbox hat with crest replaces the beret. Hailed by fashion critics, this pivotal uniform elegantly married mobility with sophistication. This summer dress in sky blue woolen Terylene featured a Japanesestyle sash.

Cathay Pacific Airways stewardess uniform 1962 To introduce its jet service, Cathay Pacific redesigned cabin crew uniforms that retained traditional influences. The first of the airlineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature red uniforms, this 1962 design has a cheongsam skirt with matching jacket in polyester and a pillbox-style hat. The cotton blouse has a mandarin collar and gourd-shaped frog buttons.

BEN REIG United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1963 Under senior designer Eva Rosencrans (1901–94), the internationally known New York-based label founded in 1929 by Ben Reig (1896–1968) took United’s uniform in a new direction as the jet age progressed. This winter suit, worn from 1963 to 1968, is made in soft bouclé worsted wool created in a new color named Blue Vision. Distinctly more feminine than previous fitted-suit uniforms, the modified box-shape jacket with a bracelet-length sleeve and a soft-rolled collar is matched with an A-line skirt.

DON LOPER Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform 1964 The next Don Loper design for Pan Am, also in worsted serge, debuted in 1964 and was worn until 1969. Set apart by its boxier, semi-fitted “easy jacket” and with a “Loper slit” at the skirt hem, it shows the increasingly popular French influence of combining high style with practicality in workplace daywear for women. The unexpected three-by-three button pattern of the jacket allowed Pan Am to embrace a bold new direction while remaining loyal to its signature color scheme. Similarly, while the hat is made of the same material, it has been converted to an au courant high crown pillbox.

TRAVILLA United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1965 Hollywood costume designer and Academy Award winner William Travilla (1920–90) created this synthetic blend, summer-seasonal ensemble for United in a new color named Blue Frost. The lightly fitted jacket has a distinct Chelsea collar and a three-quarter-length sleeve with a detachable dropped cuff. The short-sleeve blouse has a banded waist and an attached jabot neckpiece for the insignia pin. Smart looking and allowing greater ease of mobility for the demands of jet service, it was issued from 1965 to 1968 and became known as “the cheerleader” because of its flared skirt.

PIERRE BALMAIN Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1965 French couturier Pierre Balmain (1914â&#x20AC;&#x201C;82) was highly successful at translating Parisian styles into ready-to-wear collections for American markets. To dress TWAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2,400 hostesses, he created this 1965 summer uniform in fabric mill-dyed to specification for the turquoise and white color scheme. The worsted wool skirt is matched with a collarless demi-fitted jacket in oyster worsted Dacron. Snap-in cuffs coordinated with the blouse-slip made of a drip-dry synthetic faille with an asymmetrical collar. The semi-beret, shell-style hat, trimmed in white piping, has a grosgrain cockade for the insignia.

PIERRE BALMAIN AND DON LOPER Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1966 In 1966, TWA replaced the Pierre Balmain jacket, which was uncomfortably warm and difficult to keep clean, with a new version of a summer uniform jacket designed for the airline years earlier by Don Loper. This cooler openfront jacket with contrasting trim reveals the beltless waist of the pencil skirt. The ensemble was initially introduced with a pointed, spread collar blouse-skirt, but was updated to a rounded collar, low neckline blouse-skirt in 1967. The hat was also reimagined as a small-brimmed, boxy cap with a large top button.

Continental Airlines hostess uniform 1967 Continental, which featured an onboard Pink Cloud Buffet Bar, issued this summer uniform from 1967 to 1970. Made in a rose pincord blend, the short-sleeve jumper is pleated at the front and has a collarless neckline. The semifitted jacket with bracelet sleeves has a brooch depicting a Boeing SST (Super Sonic Transport) for the insignia. Notably, the white straw beret of synthetic fiber is paired in contrast to the suit instead of a matching color. At the suggestion of actress Audrey Meadows (1922â&#x20AC;&#x201C;96), who was married to company president Robert Six (1907â&#x20AC;&#x201C;86), Continentalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hostesses received a pearl necklace upon their graduation to wear with the uniform.

NEW LOOKS, NEW MATERIALS, NEW CHOICES Women’s fashion transformed wildly in the Go-Go Sixties, a decade that witnessed the advent of space travel, mass media, and tremendous social change. Several airlines, particularly those with aggressive business plans, chose to boldly go where some of fashion’s emerging stars were already headed, metaphorically—to outer space. Jetliners provided such speed and range that a flight halfway around the world was a suborbital experience. To project this fantastic new feeling, company attire was a central element in marketing strategies. The stewardess uniform became the spacesuit costume for the role of “astronette” as more and more travelers lifted off and passenger numbers continued to soar. Mirroring developments in both business and casual dress, airline uniform designers catered to individual taste and faddism. The miniskirt, with electric colors and swirling patterns, soon made its way from the boutiques of London and Beverly Hills to the jet cabin. Simple shapes and all-season, mix-and-match choices emerged as a “nonuniform” revolution arose. Cabin crewmembers wore different base garments and accessories within the catalogue of company colors and patterns. Hats, if issued, became more playful and theme-based. Mass production of new synthetic fabrics also profoundly affected fashion. Wrinkleresistant, durable, and drip-dry, these new economical materials were ideal for airline uniforms that could be washed in a hotel sink. Double-knit polyester took hold as the 1970s opened, and airline uniform design continued to reflect changing times as social movements and workplace norms evolved throughout the decade.

Northwest Orient Airlines stewardess uniform 1967 This summer uniform created for Northwest is a two-piece suit with a trim, collarless short jacket worn over a spring green, short-sleeve knit turtleneck and knee-length, A-line skirt. The suit’s lightweight wool fabric with a thin horizontal stripe features the green, brown, and blue of the woodlands and sky in the airline’s home state of Minnesota. A stylized trapper hat with small visor and contrasting side flaps complements the overall pattern. This uniform was worn from 1967 to 1970, and became known as “the caterpillar” among cabin crews.

Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1968 Knitwear maker Dalton Apparel created a wardrobe with accessories to give TWA hostesses a range of appearances. The winter ensemble, with a multi-ply, wool princess jacket and dress, came in Golden Yellow, Avocado Green, and Poppy Orange. The turtleneck dress top is striped with the skirt and jacket of a solid color. The beret was required, but an arrange-at-will scarf was optional.

Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1968 Created for TWA by Dalton Apparel, this uniform was introduced in the summer of 1968 and worn until 1971. Made of Trevira polyester, the green, collarless jacket has dropped cuffs. The shortsleeve dress, worn with a green, tapered belt, has a plaid skirt with a front kick pleat and a solid top with collar. An attached neckerchief with a ring matches the skirt.

SPACE THEATER & THE ANTI-UNIFORM The Space Race was at full throttle by the second half of the 1960s. As NASAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moon shots captivated attention in the United States and abroad, commercial air travel skyrocketed among the new jet set. Many airline uniforms projected a cosmic vibe as theatrical marketing campaigns changed the look of flight fashion. Mary Wells Lawrence (b. 1928) directed a radical makeover of Braniff that upended the status quo, and designers like Emilio Pucci and Pierre Cardin brought drama and elegance to an airborne culture. New shapes and silhouettes abruptly appeared, and hats turned into more helmet-like forms of headwear. Colors in solids and prints also exploded on the scene as new synthetic fabrics stretched and shimmered. Interchangeable pieces and accessories in space-age materials now made up a stewardessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wardrobe, as the anti-uniform uniform became vogue. The type of mix-and-match, wash-and-wear, drip-dry, easy-care garments created by well-known designers for globally marketed, ready-to-wear collections were quickly adapted for the active flight attendant lifestyle. Stylish and less restrictive, these new outfits were received with pleasure by airline cabin crews as girdles and gloves were being eliminated.

EMILIO PUCCI Braniff International Airways hostess uniform 1966 Masterminded by advertising executive Mary Wells Lawrence and unveiled in 1965, Braniff’s revolutionary new identity shocked the airline industry. For “The End of the Plain Plane” campaign, designer Alexander Girard (1907–93) introduced a vivid color palette, while Italianborn fashion impresario Emilio Pucci (1914–92) reconceptualized the airline uniform. Pucci’s 1965 Gemini IV Collection was multi-layered for inflight quick-change combinations of suits, tunics, and culottes. Pucci then introduced this 1966 Supersonic Derby outfit. The harlequinprint nylon jersey, tights, and bowler hat have Central American instruments and pre-Columbian art motifs. Footwear designer Beth Levine (1914–2006) created the striped calfskin boots.

OLEG CASSINI Air West stewardess uniform 1968 California-based airlines responded to the space-age looks promoted by other carriers. To project the style of the Golden State, home to a colossal aerospace industry, Oleg Cassini (1913–2006) designed this uniform in 1968 for Air West, a regional carrier headquartered in San Francisco. The two-piece polyester suit matched the colors of the Air West fleet. In the slim-cut jacket, Cassini cleverly combines a “Starfleet Command” look with high collar and jewel button side-flap reminiscent of an early aviator. Worn with knee boots, the vivid color scheme and boomerang insignia at the neck add to the boundless feel of jet travel.

PIERRE CARDIN Union de Transports Aériens (UTA) stewardess uniform 1968 In a departure from traditional styles, the private

for space-age geometric elements is seen in the

French carrier UTA embraced futuristic designs

circular pocket trim and the white-ringed collar,

by fashion’s youthful avant-garde. Italian-born

cuffs, and hem. This is echoed by the helmet

French designer Pierre Cardin (b. 1922) brought

shape and mini-brim of the basket-weave straw

the influences of his recent Cosmos Collection

ascot hat. As with the blue and green jersey

to UTA in 1968. With this mini-dress summer

winter version, Cardin’s characteristic use of

uniform in beige gabardine, Cardin’s penchant

textured pantyhose accessorized the look. 77

EMILIO PUCCI Braniff International Airways hostess uniform with apron 1968 Having introduced the “non-uniform uniform” concept with multiple combinations, Emilio Pucci then produced his 1968 Classic Collection. This mini dress in plum Trevira blend, with a set-in long sleeve, jewel neckline, and lowwaist pleated skirt, also came in pale pink. This open-sided smock-style hostess apron in silver space-age material with buttons at the shoulder, first appeared with the Classic Collection. It is made of a Conn-Hall-Marx vinyl fabric and has a matching rope belt with jewel ends. It was repeated for Pucci’s subsequent Braniff uniforms in iridescent sunset pink, aqua, gold, and metallic blue nylon.

CLEAR STATEMENTS & BOLD CHOICES As competition among airlines in both domestic and international markets intensified, increasingly sophisticated marketing campaigns were launched in the late 1960s and early ‘70s. These centered on brand strength, the allure of amenities, and the projection of a certain style—which was typically assigned to the stewardess. The job title would also undergo a transformation to the gender-neutral “flight attendant” as new social and professional awareness occurred, and the hiring of male cabin crewmembers increased. Many airlines found themselves at a crossroads with respect to their fashion direction. Avant-gardism challenged traditional orders in the fashion centers of both Europe and the United States. Italian tailoring, Parisian haute couture changed by “moon girl” looks and prêt-à-porter lines, and youth-oriented boutique fashion played to the sexual revolution with hemlines as the gauge. These polarizing influences can be seen in Balenciaga’s final expression for his Air France uniform that eloquently speaks to the vitality of the air age while demonstrating his classic restraint. Then, the psychedelic Pop Art look of the Californians arises, eventually giving way to wardrobe systems of still colorful, yet more business-like suits and fun daywear combinations.

American Airlines stewardess uniform 1967 In use from 1967 to 1969, this “American Beauty” uniform projects a contemporary style of casual comfort popular among U.S. airlines in the late 1960s and early ‘70s. With a cool, resort-wear look, the simple polyester dress with loose rolled collar came in solid red, white, or blue, and was matched with the checkered scarf and tri-color vinyl belt with an interlocking clasp.

JEAN LOUIS United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1968 Parisian by birth, Hollywood costumer Jean Louis (1907–97) designed for hundreds of leading ladies, including the famous strapless gown worn by Rita Hayworth in “Gilda.” A frequent nominee and Oscar-winner, Louis had a long engagement with United Air Lines and created this uniform for the airline’s 4,500 stewardesses. Worn from 1968 to 1970, the all-season outfit came in Hawaiian Sunset and Maliblue with a Miami Sands stripe. Two optional dresses were made in Miami Sands with a Hawaiian Sunset or Maliblue stripe, along with a tri-color “jet-a-long” version worn only in flight.

JEAN LOUIS United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1968 Jean Louisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; popular A-line, double-knit wool skimmer is slightly fitted and came with a choice of hemline length from top-of-the-knee to three inches above. The kepi hat playfully combines a military touch with the mod 1960s-look of the dress. Made of white vinyl or Hawaiian Sunset wool, the hat could be worn with a headscarf passed through the over-flap. This uniform is an early example of the design concept where outfits in different colors began to allow a degree of individualism, while unmistakably remaining company wear. Louis and others would develop this trend as airlines sought more wardrobe options.

CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA Air France stewardess uniform 1969 Praised by his peers, Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972) was a master of the sartorial arts—personally designing, cutting, and sewing his creations. He opened an Air France department within his Paris fashion house for the creation of this uniform. This winter suit, in navy blue woolen serge, perfects the semifitted look as it liberates the form and retains a lithe appearance. Overlaid flap pockets and a riding hat in satin velour create la mode aéronautique. The knee-length, shaped skirt has kangaroo pockets, and the turned-down collar of the Terylene twill blouse adds to the outfit’s liberating comfort. After finishing the Air France collection, Balenciaga closed his fashion house.

Cathay Pacific Airways stewardess uniform 1969 Cathay Pacificâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1969 uniform reflected the fashion of the times with a new combination in red polyester. The A-line mini-dress was matched by a fitted princess seam jacket with high collar and accessorized by a simple white silk scarf. The contemporary look of the suit was balanced with the traditional touch of the mandarin-style hat.

HARRY GILBERT Delta Air Lines stewardess uniform 1969 Delta’s 1969 to 1970 uniform came in three solid pastels: Aquanox Blue, Sunshine Yellow, and the Grenelle Green of this polyester-knit dress. With accessories and reversible serving smocks, six combinations were possible. The tall huntsman-style hat, by renowned New York milliner Mae Hanauer, fit over a beehive hairdo. It has a “chimney top” and a colorcoordinated band.

EMILIO PUCCI Braniff International Airways hostess uniform 1971 Emilio Pucci called his next collection 747 Braniff Place in honor of the airline’s new wide-body jet. This multiple-style uniform included dresses and a new look in airline attire—the pantsuit. Made in lightweight nylon Qiana, it came in a pink and green combination, and in this two-tone blue version. The short-sleeve dress had above-theknee and mini lengths, and square, ruffled, or scoop neck options. It was worn with or without the palazzo pants, or a hot pants alternative for the mini. Pucci’s famous print designs appear on the skirt and as decorative borders to create a finished appearance.

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MARIO ARMOND ZAMPARELLI Hughes Airwest hostess uniform with serving dress 1972 In 1970, industrialist and aviation entrepreneur Howard Hughes (1905–76) bought Air West, added his name to the airline, and kept its home base at San Francisco International Airport. Hughes selected Mario Armond Zamparelli (1921–2012) as chief executive designer. Also a photographer, poet, and jazz musician, Zamparelli created a forceful identity for Hughes Airwest, dominated by his blazing Sundance Yellow and Universe Blue color scheme. For this uniform, he added an orange poly-cotton blend zip-up jumper as a serving topper over the polyester blouse. The woven-ribbon trim bears the futuristic double-H logotype of the owner’s initials.

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MARIO ARMOND ZAMPARELLI Hughes Airwest hostess uniform 1972 Mario Armond Zamparelli created this highly original outfit to fulfill his vision of an airline uniform that he wanted “revved-up with a classic boldness in beautiful shapes streaming like light over the body.” The Sundance Yellow, polyester stretch-knit suit has a tightly contoured, fullzipper jacket that can be closed to the neck or opened to create a fold-down collar. The abovethe-knee princess dress has a jewel collar and double–front, pleated skirt. Matching shoes or knee-high boots in crinkle leatherette completed the outfit. Zamparelli’s uniform collection was issued until 1977.

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Pacific Southwest Airlines stewardess uniform 1973 San Diego-based Pacific Southwest Airlines gained recognition in the 1970s for form-fitting dresses with dramatically raised hemlines. Cabin interiors were decorated in bright, flowery patterns complementing the pink, red, and apricot colors of their uniforms to create what the company promoted as the California Look. This micro-mini dress in polyester was worn over a pair of red mini-shorts. It has a swirl pattern front and teardrop neckline. PSA uniforms of the period included perch hats in red wool felt worn at the side with hat combs, such as this heartshaped fascinator.

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PIERRE BALMAIN Cathay Pacific Airways female flight attendant uniform 1974 Paris-based fashion designer Pierre Balmain (1914â&#x20AC;&#x201C;82) created this outfit called the Tung Hoi (Eastern Sea) uniform. He mixed the traditionalism of the suitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s peaked lapels, cuff ranks, and dropped hemline with the contemporary look of the brightly colored, wave-pattern print blouse. An alpine-style, black felt hat coordinates with the skinny belt. This uniform was issued from 1974 to 1983.

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PLURALISM & SPORTY ELEGANCE By the late 1960s and early â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s, a new era of pluralism in fashion emerged. Airlines now pursued a broader range of styles as they continued to create distinct identities through the use of company attire. Within most of the individual airlines, the concept of the uniform was rethought and designs were developed with a new approach. Selfexpression in fashion was translated to multi-piece uniforms with dozens of possible combinations and interchangeable colors and patterns. While still recognizable as a unified wardrobe, such a measure of individuality made cabin crews more stylish and uniforms less institutional. As a flight attendant career became more desirable and restrictive labor practices were challenged and repealed, the ranks swelled and job longevity increased. Many designers were asked to consult directly with employees, and airlines began to undertake complete uniform redesigns on more frequent twoor three-year cycles. Two distinct trends in airline uniforms emerged in the 1970s that embraced the new principles of mix-and-match combinations and color choices. The first was the jacket and skirt suit, traceable to French fashion legend Coco Chanel (1883â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1971), who championed daywear for the modern working woman and redefined luxury on a mass scale with a simplicity of style and cut. The second was the cool, comfortable, sporty look of A-line dresses, shifts, and tunics that showed resort-wear influences. With synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, uniforms came in wrinkle-resistant, easycare outfits that were all-season for either side of the equator.

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JEAN LOUIS United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1970 Jean Louis (1907â&#x20AC;&#x201C;97) followed his 1968 United uniform with an entirely re-imagined all-season wardrobe for the wide-body jet era. Introduced in 1970, the mix-and-match collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s base garment is a double-knit jumper in red with a black-trimmed scoop neck. The matching wrinkle-resistant jacket has patch pockets and brass buttons. A bodysuit blouse came in short-sleeve white or black sweater-turtleneck versions, both made of polyester. Louis added a signature print scarf selection and eliminated the hat.

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JEAN LOUIS United Air Lines stewardess uniform with smock 1970 For inflight meal service, Jean Louis created this serving smock in a vivid geometric pattern with the letter U for United. Both fashionable and functional in reversible black and white, the smock is made of a double-faced polyester weave and has an attached matching belt. The jumper-style dress underneath the smock is paired with the white polyester short-sleeve body-suit blouse with mock turtleneck. After this collection, considered a successful new direction in company attire and wornuntil 1972, Louis continued to be Unitedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designer of choice for the airlineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next mix-and-match wardrobe.

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JEAN LOUIS United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1970 With the spacious cabin configurations of new wide-body jets introduced in the 1970s, airlines further differentiated their service levels based on separated passenger classes. Multi-piece uniform collections enabled an exclusivity of fashion selections. Jean Louisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1970 collection for United includes this gold-plaid, maxi-length cocktail skirt that was worn in the first class upper deck lounge of the Boeing 747. The medium weight skirt has a three-quarter-button front with a single patch pocket. It was worn with a wide patent leather belt and the ribbed turtleneck bodysuit blouse.

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JEAN LOUIS United Air Lines steward uniform 1970 For first class lounge stewards, Jean Louis created a distinctive, premium-service uniform as part of his 1970 United Air Lines collection. Designed to pair with the first class stewardess ensemble, the steward uniform featured an orange and black plaid cocktail jacket in combination with a black tie and smoke-gray pants.

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Continental Airlines hostess uniform 1970 For the 1970 introduction of Continental’s Boeing 747 “Proud Bird of the Pacific” Hawaiian service, a new set of uniforms was designed to project the airline’s identity and a sporty look of casual comfort. The bold-striped, polyester mini-dress in company colors has a gold-tone chain belt with a monogrammed medallion. Worn with a logo-pattern scarf, the uniform was issued until 1973.

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MULTIPLES, ONE-PIECES & LONG LIVE POLYESTER New trends and materials, with unique design solutions for the physical demands of the uniform’s wearer, paralleled larger movements in a growing female workforce demanding stylish daywear. Hemlines rose and fell, and rose again, sometimes disappearing altogether, and interstellar chic was taken to new heights in airline fashion as the space programs of the 1960s captivated the world. California-based carriers also took bold steps in outfitting their cabin crews in attention-getting silhouettes and colors. Casual comfort also emerged in the latter 1960s and through the ‘70s. Drip-dry, double-knit fabrics and mix-and-match collections caught on, and pants were introduced while hats became optional or nonexistent. The mixing of the new and a return to the traditional is seen in the late 1970s, through the ‘80s, and into the ‘90s. While the business suit-style of uniform retained a formal approach, a vest or cardigan could be added, and the endless combinations of multipiece uniforms provided more liberating choices for the wearer while still projecting a cohesive, if deconstructed, uniformity.

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HANAE MORI Japan Air Lines (JAL) stewardess uniform 1970 Japanese designer Hanae Mori (b. 1926) started her fashion career in Tokyo with the film industry in the 1950s and began presenting haute couture in Paris in 1977. This “fifth generation” JAL uniform was designed in 1970 for the airline’s first wide-body jet service. The dark blue polyester knit mini-dress was a striking departure from JAL’s earlier uniforms and is accessorized with a “rising sun” belt, a semi-rigid bumper brim hat, and a two-tone silk scarf.

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BILL BLASS American Airlines stewardess uniform 1970 This two-tone uniform in checked and solid navy blue polyester was created in 1974 by American fashion designer Bill Blass (1922â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2002), who was known for elegant daywear and traditional fabrics. Giving the appearance of a two-piece outfit with an overskirt top, it is an easy-fit, onepiece shirtdress with a back zipper. The matching skinny belt completes the classic look.

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VALENTINO Trans World Airlines (TWA) female flight attendant uniform 1971 Rome-based fashion designer Valentino Garavani (b. 1932) brought his passion for color to TWA in 1971 with a uniform collection that included menswear and pants for women. With a business-like look, this plum polyester, knit dress suit has signature buttons and scarf. It marks a transition in airline fashion as age limits were removed and the profession became a longer-term career.

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FRANK SMITH Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform 1971 Dubbed “The Uniform for the Superjet Era,” and created for the new wide-body jet service, this uniform marked a shift in Pan Am’s approach to fashion. It was created by Frank Smith (1927–2007), chief designer at career wear manufacturer Evan-Picone, to be “a functional and fashionable wardrobe that could be worn in all seasons, and of such quality that it would enhance the Pan Am image.”

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FRANK SMITH Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform with cape 1971 For the first time, the Pan Am stewardess could choose from two colors, Superjet Blue or Galaxy Gold. Fashioned after an English riding habit, this uniform includes a modified Chesterfield jacket and a flared camisole skirt in polyester with the airlineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first above-the-knee hemline, and a cotton blouse with neckpiece. Topping off the dramatic new look is a bowler derby and reversible cape.

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JEAN LOUIS United Air Lines female flight attendant uniform 1973 While flight attendants could now dress in the spirit of “do your own thing,” these mix-andmatch outfits by Hollywood costumer Jean Louis (1907–97) remained unified by identifiable colors and patterns, and included pants. The green of this double-knit wool suit is complemented by the polka dot, long-sleeve bodyshirt with attached bow tie scarf.

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ANDRÉ COURRÈGES Union de Transports Aériens (UTA) flight attendant uniform 1973 French designer André Courrèges (1923–2016) joined the House of Balenciaga in 1949, and opened his own house in 1961. Credited with creating the miniskirt and the go-go style “Courrèges boot,” his trim, futuristic, youthful fashions embraced pantsuits and synthetic materials. His 1973 uniform collection for UTA had a skirt or flared trousers option, a fitted sweater, and a short jacket in imitation leather. The pearlescent pink, powder blue, or red outfits came with white-vinyl flat boots.

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DAYWEAR & WORKPLACE ATTIRE Airline fashion from the mid-1970s to the present has largely paralleled general trends and popular tastes in womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s daywear and workplace attire. Airlines toned down and refined their looks as air travel became more routine and available to greater numbers in the wide-body jet era. This was a distinct departure from the 1960s and early â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s, when flight attendants and fashion were often used for attention-getting promotional purposes and the uniform came to symbolize the liberating feel of the new jet age. As the seventies progressed, postmodern pluralism brought greater diversity to fashion and several themes with overlapping elements emerged among the airlines. The multi-piece wardrobe became a lasting principle where the many combination choices included skirts or pants. Designers expressed timeless elegance through contemporary casual wear, such as the belted jacket, while others explored retro-chic looks by revisiting motifs and reimagining styles from decades past. With more conservative designs thought to convey respectability and competence, many uniforms conformed to standard business attire, predominantly in navy blue. This shift to an inter-airline uniformity, however, created opportunity for greater contrast. It enabled those who selected more stylish silhouettes and bolder colors to once again stand out, and to keep fashion at the forefront of airline identity.

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STAN HERMAN Trans World Airlines (TWA) female flight attendant uniform 1974 New York-based fashion designer Stan Herman (b. 1932) counts several airlines among a long list of large companies for which he has created uniforms. Credited as one of the first to introduce pantsuits for women, this 1974 TWA uniform, in lightweight wool, was part of a popular mix-and-match set worn until 1977. Casually sophisticated, the pinstripe flared pants and a rib-knit turtleneck top were worn with the belted safari-style polyester jacket.

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EMILIO PUCCI Braniff International Airways female flight attendant uniform with serving dress 1974 For his final Braniff uniform, worn from 1974 to 1976, Emilio Pucci designed this pullover dress with a collar, half-placket, and cuffed shirtsleeve. Accessorized with matching scarf and string belt, the nylon print fabric is a signature Pucci pattern where Emilio and B for Braniff are worked into the floral swirl of blue, turquoise, and green. He included a long-sleeve bodysuit and sleeveless, shift-style serving dress in woven polyester slub yarn with a mirror pattern and a scoop neck. The pin is the Braniff Dove created by Alexander Girard. Pucciâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Braniff collections changed airline uniform design in the 1960s and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s. Breaking the rules of restraint, he helped open an era of lively, mixable styles in uninhibited expressions of colors and patterns that became the costumes for a new theater of the air.

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EMILIO PUCCI Qantas Airways flight hostess uniform 1974 Emilio Pucci brought his international vision for chic travel-friendly attire to Qantas in 1974. The Multiples Collection was inspired by his “soaring grace” concept and included suits in soft coral or deep woodland green colors. This variation combines the Australian wool basketweave jacket, in short and regular lengths, with a colorful shirt dress. The dress came with short or long sleeves and had a blue-tipped placket and collar with covered buttons and a decorative border at the hemline. The synthetic jersey print of a petals-and-feathers pattern was Pucci’s interpretation of Australia’s vivid flora and birdlife. This design continued to be worn until 1985.

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EDITH HEAD Pan American World Airways female flight attendant uniform 1975 Introduced on Valentine’s Day in 1975, Pan Am’s new mix-and-match uniform was designed by multiple Academy Award-winning costumer Edith Head (1897–1981). The versatile polyester uniform includes a long-line cardigan-style jacket. Worn until 1980, it offered a slacks option and a tunic with long-sleeve blouse. Head incorporated Pan Am’s Universe Design motif seen on the belt buckle, scarf, and in the top-stitching on the felt slouch hat designed by Frank Olive (1929–95).

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PAPOU LAHOUD Alia Royal Jordanian Airlines female flight attendant uniform 1976 Lebanese designer Papou Lahoud began her fashion career in 1965. Her creations include theater costume, evening wear, and wedding gowns. She began designing uniforms for Alia in 1973. Italian-tailored in polyester and cotton, this uniform combines the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colors in a jacket worn over a smart one-piece contrasting shirt dress with tie belt. The felt kepi cap has a rayon-twist chin strap, and the vivid pattern of the scarf unifies the look.

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JEAN PATOU Air France Concorde female flight attendant uniform 1976 French dressmaker Jean Patou (1880â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1936) opened his Paris fashion house in 1914 and achieved an international reputation for elegant and liberating sportswear. House of Patou artistic director Angelo Tarlazzi (b. 1942) created this uniform in 1976 exclusively for the Air France supersonic Concorde service. The striped polyester of this loose-fitting, one-piece shirt dress was the airlineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first use of patterned fabric. A knotted belt creates a two-piece look with a mid-1970s hem length.

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STAN HERMAN United Airlines female flight attendant uniform 1976 From 1976 to 1981, thousands of United’s cabin crewmembers wore a combination of Stan Herman’s all-season uniform called “Classic U.S.A.” This three-piece, vested-suit version in rust Dacron polyester was worn over the cream long-sleeve body blouse highlighted in orange and red piping with a logo pattern. The optional hat with a narrow brim proved popular with flight attendants.

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HANAE MORI Japan Air Lines (JAL) female flight attendant uniform 1977 Hanae Moriâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next JAL uniform, which debuted in 1977 and was worn until 1987, took a distinct turn toward nostalgic traditionalism. The familiar darkblue polyester of the one-piece dress and jacket combines contemporary materials and a flouncy scarf, with playful references to earlier regimental looks in the epaulettes, gold buttons, kepi cap, and return to the below-the-knee hemline.

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HALSTON Braniff International Airways female flight attendant uniform 1977 American fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick (1932â&#x20AC;&#x201C;90), who began designing hats in 1953, was a celebrated figure in fashion and four-time Coty Award winner. The minimalist aesthetic of his 1977 uniform launched Braniffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s New Elegance and Ultra-Touch campaign. Drawing on the success of his Ultrasuede ready-to-wear sportswear lines, Halston used earth tones of light brown, beige, and ivory in polyester suit pieces with tie-belt jacket and H-pattern nylon crepe.

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RALPH LAUREN Trans World Airlines (TWA) female flight service manager uniform 1978 This 1978 uniform by American fashion icon Ralph Lauren (b. 1939), who began his career as a glove salesman for Brooks Brothers, signaled a turn toward nostalgic romanticism in airline uniform design. The conservative traditionalism of the double-breasted, navy blue wool jacket and a longer skirt harkens back to the military and more masculine suits of the 1930s. The ruby cuff ranks, hash marks, and stars on the sleeveâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;designating the rank of onboard service managerâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;mix with the Ivy League look of the oxford shirt, collar bar, and repp tie.

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HERMÈS Union de Transports Aériens (UTA) female flight attendant uniform 1979 Breaking with the bold, cutting-edge looks of its past uniforms, UTA turned to Parisian luxury goods maker Hermès for a new wardrobe in 1979. Signaling a return to the comfort of romantic traditionalism, this simple yet elegant, short-sleeve shirt dress in a light celery-green polyester quatrefoil print incorporates the UTA logo. The logo is repeated on the false buckle of the partial leather belt and accompanying blue wool cardigan.

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ADOLFO Pan American World Airways female flight attendant uniform 1980 Cuban-born designer Adolfo Sardiña (b. 1933) established his own New York salon in 1963. His 1980 uniform program for Pan Am’s 6,800 flight attendants has Adolfo’s “romantic look” of simple, elegant design. Fashionable and functional, this polyester tailored suit in a softer shade of Pan Am blue has a classic blazer with subtle cuff trim and was worn with a matching vest and ribbon bow tie. With two styles of optional headwear, the uniform was worn until 1991.

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YVES SAINT LAURENT Qantas Airways female flight attendant uniform 1986 In 1986, renowned French couturier Yves Saint Laurent (1936â&#x20AC;&#x201C;2008) introduced this Qantas uniform, which was worn until 1991. The cropped, tuxedo-style jacket has the wide lapels, padded shoulders, and narrow waist of Saint Laurentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1980s power-suit designs for his Rive Gauche label. The collar and cuff trim projects a regimental formality, while the colorful Qantas flying kangaroo pattern of the cotton-poly skirt and blouse adds a festive air.

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CHRISTIAN DIOR Union de Transports Aériens (UTA) female flight attendant uniform 1987 Worn from 1987 to 1992, this uniform was created by the House of Dior under creative director Marc Bohan (b. 1926). The navy blue polyester midi skirt reflects the “powerdressing” trends in women’s career wear of the 1980s and the new direction toward a look of professionalism chosen by many airlines of the era. The blouse, scarf, and knit blend pullover represent a comfortable elegance.

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Eastern Air Lines female flight attendant uniform 1990 Eastern Air Lines also brought nostalgic traditionalism to uniform design in the 1990s. Issued with slacks and a midi skirt with matching blazer, this uniform includes the waistcoat-style vest of an earlier era. The collection was introduced with the tag line “The hat is back!”, referencing the retro overseas cap by Frank Olive (1929–95). A classic chain link and medallion pattern scarf adds a touch of burgundy to the outfit.

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NEO-TRADITIONALISM, POWER DRESSING & CORPORATE LOOKS In the last two decades, many airlines seeking to position themselves squarely in the business class sector adopted distinctly corporate looks with navy blue as a dominant color scheme—a trend prominently seen in the flight attendant uniforms of major carriers in the United States. Hemlines remained at or below the knee, while the tie belt gained in popularity. These and other neo-traditional influences allowed for greater contrast among airlines that continued engaging designers to provide their crewmembers, and passengers, with the distinct looks and appeal of contemporary fashion. From the understated elegance of French designer Christian Lacroix’s robe-manteau dress for Air France, to the trim and tailored look of Macario Jiménez’s jacket and skirt for Aeroméxico, to the bold take on 1940s couture by Vivienne Westwood for Virgin Atlantic, the direction of flight attendant fashion for many airlines continued to be driven by designers who brought their own distinct approaches to the uniform originally conceived as a nod to the nursing personnel who staffed the first airline cabins. As commercial aviation heads into its second century, the flight attendant uniform remains one of the most important and highly visible elements of corporate identity for airlines keen to distinguish themselves within a crowded and competitive industry.

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CHRISTIAN LACROIX Air France female flight attendant uniform 2005 French designer Christian Lacroix (b. 1951) opened his fashion house in 1987 and is often credited with reviving Parisian couture. He brought the first major change to Air Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uniform in seventeen years with a wardrobe of over one hundred pieces to dress the airlineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 36,000 employees. With a discreet and timeless elegance, this robe-manteau style dress came in a navy blue and blue-gray wool blend. It has topstitched ribbing at the closure and a Japanesestyle obi belt.

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MACARIO JIMÉNEZ Aeroméxico female flight attendant uniform 2008 Mexican fashion designer Macario Jiménez studied at Milan’s Marangoni Institute and created his own clothing brand in 1994, specializing in women’s ready-to-wear. His Aeroméxico uniform, worn from 2008 to 2011, is a black polyester knit suit worn with a skirt or pants. The trim, tailored look of the jacket and skirt is highlighted with red piping, a two-tone tie belt, and a dramatic kick pleat. The outfit is finished with a multicolor scarf.

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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Virgin Atlantic Airways female flight attendant uniform 2014 The major influence in British punk fashion, Dame Vivienne Westwood (b. 1941) created London street fashion in the 1970s and began showing in Paris in 1981. She brought her unique style to Virgin Atlantic in 2014 with this current uniform to match the airlineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s maverick attitude. In signature red, the exquisitely tailored suit recalls 1940s couture and Westwoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s earlier nippedwaist Bettina jacket, with a darted pencil skirt. A high collar and asymmetric-frilled jacquard blouse underscore the Anglocentric qualities of this forward-looking design.

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OUT OF SIGHT OUTERWEAR Outerwear has been an important part of the airline uniform from the beginning of the stewardess profession, when there was little protection from the elements on the airfield. Even as covered boarding bridges, or jetways, were introduced in the late 1950s, the range of climate zones encountered by cabin crews required outerwear. Far from an afterthought, these wardrobe elements were always considered an important part of the flight attendant image as they departed a hotel or marched across an airport terminal. Emilio Pucci’s outerwear for his layered Braniff Gemini IV uniform vividly expresses his interstellar vision. The zippered overcoat in reversible absinthe and apricot has a stand-away, welted ring collar to meet the bubble space helmet. Worn over a printed-velvet hat scarf and formally called a rain dome, the helmet is made of Perspex thermoplastic acrylic and was to protect the wearer’s hairdo. Fragile and with no convenient place to store it on board, it was worn only briefly for greeting passengers at the airplane door and for publicity purposes. The TWA Poppy Orange duster raincoat, with a separate kerchief, has sleeves that can be pulled in to make a cape. The Hughes Airwest hooded cloak, in Sundance Yellow and Universe Blue trim, has arm holes at the sides. Small suitcases, called crew kits, were often issued as color-coordinated parts of an airline’s overall fashion statement.

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Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess capecoat and headcovering 1968 Dalton Apparel

SFO Museum Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.080, .081 L2016.0301.268, .269

Braniff International Airways hostess uniform, overcoat, hat scarf, and rain dome 1965 Emilio Pucci

Hughes Airwest hostess hooded cloak 1972 Mario Armond Zamparelli

Courtesy of NWA History Centre, Inc., Bloomington, MN L2016.0303.005

SFO Museum Uniform and hat scarf: Gift of Sandra C. A. Thomas in memory of Anne Karin Walker Overcoat and rain dome: Collection of Frontiers of Flight Museum, Love Field, Dallas, TX 2015.062.003, .004, .017 L2016.0301.145, .270, .271, L2016.0316.001, .002

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THE GLAMOUR OF GLOVES Fancy dress gloves have a long association with womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion and ritual. Beyond protective utility in outdoor settings, this particular clothing accessory developed complex traditions in etiquette. Gloves came to symbolize friendliness and goodwill, and they factor into western fashion of the twentieth century for both evening and daywear. For the airline uniform, they added formality, style, and opportunities for matching other accessories, such as handbags, to enhance an appearance of unity. Many airlines issued strict guidelines for the wearing of gloves, especially when welcoming passengers at the airplane door, and allowed them to be removed only when working in the cabin. Seasonal rules were also applied with wrist-length white washable gloves to be worn in summer and three-quarter-length black leather gloves in winter. Determined by an April-to-October calendar and oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s base city, this protocol was made all the more complicated when both seasons were encountered on long-haul shifts. Both pairs were then packed to stay in compliance. Scalloped cuffs and pearl-button closures were permitted. Some designers ignored traditional color neutrality and integrated gloves into the overall color scheme of a uniform collection. Today, the glove has essentially been dropped as a part of uniform design.

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[upper L]

Braniff International Airways hostess gloves 1965 Emilio Pucci synthetic fabric

SFO Museum Gift of Sandra C. A. Thomas in memory of Anne Karin Walker 2015.062.009 a b L2016.0301.295 a b

[lower L]

Pan American World Airways female flight attendant gloves 1970s leather

SFO Museum Gift of World Wings International, Inc., New Jersey Chapter 2014.132.193 a b L2016.0301.292 a b

[upper R]

United Air Lines stewardess gloves 1950s nylon

SFO Museum Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation 2012.100.020 a b L2016.0301.296 a b

[lower R]

United Air Lines stewardess gloves 1957 Aris Glove Company cotton blend

SFO Museum Gift of Patricia A. Lionberger in memory of Captain Edward M. Lionberger 2010.019.116 a b L2016.0301.294 a b

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FUNCTIONAL & FASHIONABLE FOOTWEAR Early airline uniforms were worn with shoes that complied with a designated type of footwear, which were purchased individually. In the 1930s and ‘40s, sensible lace-up oxfords with low-block heels provided stable footing in the cabins of the low-flying, unpressurized aircraft that often encountered turbulence. With postwar pressurized aircraft flying above the weather, and new fashion-designer outfits, slip-on shoes became a more stylish accessory. High-heel pumps were issued or designated for purchase by the 1950s, particularly the popular two-tone “spectator” shoe. Always worn for publicity shots, high heels were required by many airlines to be worn throughout a flight. Eventually flats, or “cabin shoes,” could be substituted for heels during cabin service. Color and style became important elements for shoes in order to more closely coordinate with a uniform’s look and the style of the times. Custom-colored pumps and platform shoes, and modish knee-high boots completed many of the more daring uniform fashions of the 1960s and ‘70s. Such attention to footwear is still practiced by designers like Vivienne Westwood, whose Virgin Atlantic uniform offers heels in three heights.

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Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s open-vamp block heel oxford shoe (type worn with Boeing Air Transport uniform) 1930s Friedman-Shelby, International Shoe leather SFO Museum 2000.090.002 a b L2016.0301.302 a b

Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess spectator pump with broguing 1955 Vitality leather

SFO Museum Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.040 a b L2016.0301.035 a b

United Air Lines stewardess stiletto heel spectator pump 1957 De Liso Debs, Flory Shoes leather, plastic

SFO Museum Gift of Patricia A. Lionberger in memory of Captain Edward M. Lionberger 2010.019.120 a b L2016.0301.300 a b

Braniff International Airways hostess block heel shoe 1971 Magdesianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of California leather, plastic SFO Museum Gift of Thomas G. Dragges 2001.016.057 a b L2016.0301.303 a b

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Japan Air Lines (JAL) female flight attendant block heel pump 1980s Ginza Kanematsu leather

SFO Museum Gift of Thomas G. Dragges 2002.094.087 a b L2016.0301.241 a b

Pacific Southwest Airlines stewardess side-buckle platform pump 1973 leather, metal

SFO Museum Gift of Carolyn Myers 2010.114.029 a b L2016.0301.301 a b

Eastern Air Lines female flight attendant kitten heel pump 1980s Etienne Aigner leather, plastic

SFO Museum Gift of Sue Presley 2012.102.011 a b L2016.0301.304 a b

Virgin Atlantic Airways female flight attendant pump 2014 Vivienne Westwood leather, plastic

Courtesy of Virgin Atlantic Airways L2016.0302.006 a b

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UTILITY & HIGH-END HANDBAGS With handles or shoulder straps, or sometimes both, the handbag functions as a carrier of essential items and a chic fashion accessory. A major focus for the makers of luxury goods and fashion designers, handbags have been part of the airline uniform since the late 1930s. Traditionally matched with shoes and gloves, some airlines have instead coordinated handbags with the color schemes of their base garments and many issued rules for how and on which side of the body they were to be carried. Airline handbags have followed the practical designs most closely associated with day-to-day career fashion. Front flap messenger bag styles have been most popular as they leave the hands free. Box-shape totes and two-handle satchel designs were also created for airlines. In addition to uniform colors, many bags bear markings or patterns using the airline brand, closely associating them with the company look. The travel savvy and active lifestyle of the flight attendant inspired the luxury leather goods maker Coach to produce a â&#x20AC;&#x153;Stewardess Bagâ&#x20AC;? for the general market in 1977. Roomy, with a front flap and shoulder strap, it is still occasionally produced and considered a timeless classic.

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United Airlines flight attendant handbag 1976 Stan Herman vinyl, plastic, polyester, metal SFO Museum Gift of Thomas G. Dragges 2001.016.008 L2016.0301.291

Alia Royal Jordanian Airlines flight attendant handbag 1980s Papou Lahoud leather, vinyl, metal

SFO Museum Gift of Thomas G. Dragges 2002.094.125 L2016.0301.288

AeromĂŠxico flight attendant handbag 1980s Macario JimĂŠnez leather, metal, plastic, nylon SFO Museum Anonymous gift 2012.064.004

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Trans World Airlines (TWA) flight attendant handbag 1968 Normandie Handbags vinyl, metal

SFO Museum Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.083 L2016.0301.287

Lufthansa German Airlines flight attendant handbag c. 1970 Publicite Serdan vinyl, metal

SFO Museum Gift of Cary C. Fong 2005.124.001 L2016.0301.289

Mexicana flight attendant handbag 2007 vinyl, metal

SFO Museum Anonymous gift 2012.064.010 L2016.0301.290

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page 9 Boeing Air Transport stewardess uniform with cape 1930

page 10 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1936

page 12 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1939

Reproduction by United Airlines

Ralph Helperin Tailors Edwardel Frocks Hat by Saks Fifth Avenue

Omniform Hat by Frank Olive

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation 2012.100.001-.005 L2016.0301.001-.005, L2016.0307.001

Jacket, skirt: Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Blouse, hat, neck ribbon: Gift of Fregulia Family 2007.051.214, 2007.105.004, .006, .016, 2012.100.006, .009 L2016.0301.006-.009, L2016.0301.094, L2016.0301.122

Jacket, dress, hat: Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Hat insignia: Gift of Patricia A. Shea Dulik 2001.042.009, 2012.100.010-.012 L2016.0301.011-.014

page 15 Transcontinental & Western Air (TWA) hostess uniform 1939

page 16 Transcontinental & Western Air (TWA) hostess uniform 1944

page 18 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1948

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. Jacket insignia, hat insignia: SFO Museum

Howard Greer Briny Marlin Coat & Suit Company Hat by Leci Original

Smith-Gray Tailors Hat by De Jean

1998.126.034, 2002.113.006-.009, 2016.023.109 L2016.0301.015-.018, .095, .123

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. Hat insignia: Museum purchase 2002.113.022-.025, 2016.023.111 L2016.0301.019-.022, .124

Jacket, skirt: Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Hat: Gift of Patricia A. Shea Dulik Jacket insignia, hat insignia: Gift of Edith Lauterbach 2001.042.008, 2006.028.132, .134, 2012.100.015-.016 L2016.0301.025-.029

page 22 Cathay Pacific Airways stewardess uniform 1950

page 27 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1955

page 31 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1955

Reproduction by Wonderful Couture Ltd.

Oleg Cassini Briny Marlin Coat & Suit Company Hat by Mae Hanauer Blouse-slip by Wearpruf by Blou-Slip

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc.

2002.113.036-.039, .041, 2016.065.001 L2016.0301.030-.034, .275

L2002.113.028-.031 a b, 2016.023.111

page 32 Northwest Airlines stewardess uniform 1958

page 35 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1959

page 36 Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform 1959

Hat by Mae Hanauer

Raymond Loewy Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx Blouse by R.W. McClain & Associates Hat by Mae Hanauer

Don Loper Blouse by dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Armigene Hat by Mae Hanauer

Gift of Cathay Pacific Airways 2009.060.056-.060 L2016.0301.261-.265

Gift of Mary Patricia Laffey Inman 2005.041.006, .024, .026-.029 a b, .031 a b L2016.0301.150-.153, .155-.157

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Jacket insignia, hat insignia: Gift of Georgia Panter Nielsen 2006.017.050, 2012.100.031-.033, .058 a b, 2006.017.007 L2016.0301.036-.040, .267

Gift of Jane Luna Euler Jacket insignia: Gift of Beatrice H. Springer Hat insignia: Gift of John J. Dunne 1995.35.07, 2002.108.003, 2004.088.001-.003, .005 L2016.0301.073-.078

page 38 Air France stewardess uniform 1962

page 42 Cathay Pacific Airways stewardess uniform 1962

page 45 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1963

Marc Bohan Christian Dior

Reproduction by Wonderful Couture, Ltd.

Courtesy of Air France

2009.060.039-.043 L2016.0301.210-.214

Ben Reig Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx Blouse by R.W. McClain & Associates Hat by Mae Hanauer

L2016.0306.001.01-.04

Gift of Cathay Pacific Airways

Jacket, skirt, jacket insignia: Gift of Allen and Karen Bowman Blouse, hat, hat insignia: Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation 2012.100.030, .039 a b, .045, 2015.088.004-.005, .035 L2016.0301.176-.182

217

page 49 Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform 1964

page 51 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1965

page 52 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1965

Don Loper Hat by Mae Hanauer

Travilla Blouse by R.W. McClain & Associates Hat by Mae Hanauer

Pierre Balmain Hat by Mae Hanauer

Gift of World Wings International, Inc., New Jersey Chapter Jacket insignia: Gift of Angela Ausman Hat insignia: Gift of John J. Dunne

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Blouse insignia, hat insignia: Gift of Edith Lauterbach

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. Hat insignia: Courtesy of Vincent Ma 2002.113.054-.055, .062, .064 L2016.0301.195-.198, L2016.0304.001

2002.108.005, 2014.132.017–.018, .021–.022, 2015.045.030 L2016.0301.061–.066

2006.028.136, .187, 2012.100.040-.042, .059 a b L2016.0301.041-.046

page 55 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1966

page 57 Continental Airlines hostess uniform 1967

page 61 Northwest Orient Airlines stewardess uniform 1967

Pierre Balmain and Don Loper Briny Marlin Coat & Suit Company Hat by Mae Hanauer Blouse-slip by Wearpruf by Blou-slip

Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx

Starflite Uniforms Hat by Mae Hanauer

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc.

Collection of United Airlines Archives Jacket insignia: Courtesy of Suzanne Cook Necklace: Courtesy of Renée A. Richards L2016.0311.002.01-.03, L2016.0315.001, L2016.0321.001

2002.113.065-.068, 2007.051.043

Gift of The Museum of Flight Hat: Courtesy of NWA History Centre, Inc., Bloomington, MN Hat insignia: Gift of the Captain John B. Russell Family Jacket insignia: Gift of Mary Patricia Laffey Inman 2005.041.005, 2012.147.089, 2015.078.001-.002, .005 L2016.0301.215-.217, .259-.260, L2016.0303.001

page 63 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1968

page 64 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess uniform 1968

page 68 Braniff International Airways hostess uniform 1966

Dalton Apparel

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. Jacket insignia: SFO Museum

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. Jacket insignia: Courtesy of Vincent Ma

Emilio Pucci Boots by Beth Levine

2002.113.071-.072, .084-.085, 2007.051.044 L2016.0301.101-.105

2002.113.087, .089, .091 L2016.0301.256-.258, L2016.0304.002

page 73 Braniff International Airways hostess uniform, overcoat, hat scarf, and rain dome 1965

page 75 Air West stewardess uniform 1968

page 76 Union de Transports Aériens stewardess uniform 1968

Oleg Cassini

Pierre Cardin

Emilio Pucci

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Jacket insignia: Museum purchase

Courtesy of Air France

Uniform and hat scarf: Gift of Sandra C. A. Thomas in memory of Anne Karin Walker Overcoat and rain dome: Collection of Frontiers of Flight Museum, Love Field, Dallas, TX

Gift of Sandra C. A. Thomas in memory of Anne Karin Walker 2015.062.001 a c, .002, .008 a b L2016.0301.140-.144 a b

L2016.0306.005.01, .02

2007.051.003, 2014.081.027-.028 L2016.0301.278-.280

2015.062.003, .004, .017 L2016.0301.145, .270, .271, L2016.0316.001, .002

page 78 Braniff International Airways hostess uniform with apron 1968

page 83 American Airlines stewardess uniform 1967

page 86 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1968

Emilio Pucci

Courtesy of American Airlines C.R. Smith Museum

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges

L2016.0308.001.01-.04

Jean Louis Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx Hat by Mae Hanauer

2001.016.081 a b .082 L2016.0301.137-.138 a b

Dress: Gift of Allen and Karen Bowman Hat: Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Hat insignia: Gift of Georgia Panter Nielsen Dress insignia: Gift of Diane Willems Vaughan L2016.0301.048, .050, .127, .129 2005.018.083, 2006.017.044, 2012.100.054, 2015.088.008

218

page 91 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1968

page 92 Air France stewardess uniform 1969

page 94 Cathay Pacific Airways stewardess uniform 1969

Jean Louis Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx Hat by Mae Hanauer

Cristóbal Balenciaga Courtesy of Air France

Rudella Shull Watterman Reproduction by Wonderful Couture, Ltd.

L2016.0306.002.01-.04

Gift of Cathay Pacific Airways 2009.060.034-.038 L2016.0301.205-.209

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Hat insignia: Gift of Georgia Panter Nielsen 2006.017.046, 2012.100.029, .051, .053 a b L2016.0301.047, .049, .128, .130

page 97 Delta Air Lines stewardess uniform 1969

page 99 Braniff International Airways hostess uniform 1971

page 100 Hughes Airwest hostess uniform with serving dress 1972

Harry Gilbert of Lady Simpson Hat by Mae Hanauer

Emilio Pucci

Mario Armond Zamparelli Portrait Clothes, Division of Barco of California

Hat: Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Dress insignia: SFO Museum Dress and hat insignia: Courtesy of Delta Flight Museum

2001.016.078, .080 L2016.0301.131-.132

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Blouse insignia: SFO Museum 2001.016.129-.130, 2007.051.023 L2016.0301.219-.220, .286

2001.134.043 a, 2009.100.088 L2016.0301.272, .273, L2016.0305.001-.002

page 103 Hughes Airwest hostess uniform 1972

page 104 Hughes Airwest hostess hooded cloak 1972

page 106 Pacific Southwest Airlines stewardess uniform 1973

Mario Armond Zamparelli Portrait Clothes, Division of Barco of California

Mario Armond Zamparelli

Futura Designs

Courtesy of NWA History Centre, Inc., Bloomington, MN

Gift of Carolyn Myers Dress insignia: SFO Museum

L2016.0303.005

2009.100.098, 2010.114.024, .028 L2016.0301.283-.285

page 108 Cathay Pacific Airways female flight attendant uniform 1974

page 115 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1970

page 118 United Air Lines stewardess uniform with smock 1970

Pierre Balmain Reproduction by Wonderful Couture, Ltd.

Jean Louis Dalton Apparel Blouse by d’Armigene

Jean Louis Dalton Apparel

Collection of NWA History Centre, Inc., Bloomington, MN L2016.0303.002-.004

Gift of Cathay Pacific Airways 2009.060.028-.033 L2016.0301.199-.204

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Scarf: Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Jacket insignia: Gift of Georgia Panter Nielsen

Gift of Diane Willems Vaughan Blouse insignia: SFO Museum 2005.018.071-.072, .075 a b, 2014.030.001 L2016.0301.165-.168

2001.134.008, 2006.017.009, 2012.100.060, .062, .066 L2016.0301.096-.100

page 123 United Air Lines stewardess uniform 1970

page 124 United Air Lines steward uniform 1970

page 126 Continental Airlines hostess uniform 1970

Jean Louis Skirt and blouse by d’Armigene

Jean Louis Simpson Clothes, Custom Tailors cotton, polyester, metal

Dress insignia: SFO Museum Dress: Collection of United Airlines Archives Scarf: Courtesy of Phoenix Airport Museum, Aviation History Collection Belt: Courtesy of Flight Path Learning Center & Museum, LAX

Gift of Bess V. McMannama Belt: Gift of DiAnn Bormes Blouse insignia: SFO Museum 2003.106.011a, .013, 2015.110.014, 2016.023.120 L2016.0301.161-.164

Jacket: Gift of Bess V. McMannama Insignia: Gift of Georgia Panter Nielsen 2003.106.012, 2006.017.020

2016.023.021 L2016.0301.274, L2016.0309.001, L2016.0310.001, L2016.0311.001

219

page 130 Japan Air Lines (JAL) stewardess uniform 1970

page 133 American Airlines stewardess uniform 1970

page 134 Trans World Airlines (TWA) female flight attendant uniform 1971

Hanae Mori Hitsujiya

Bill Blass Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx

Valentino

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges

Dress: Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Dress insignia: SFO Museum Belt: Gift of Craig Bowerman

2001.016.182 a b, 2001.134.022, 2002.094.111 L2016.0301.233 a b-.235

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. Jacket insignia: SFO Museum 2002.113.112-.114, .118, 2016.027.001 L2016.0301.111-.114, .126

2001.016.100, 2007.051.007, 2016.072.003 L2016.0301.218, .226, .277

page 138 Trans World Airlines (TWA) flight attendant uniform 1971

page 141 Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform 1971

page 144 Pan American World Airways stewardess uniform with cape 1971

Valentino polyester, metal, leather, plastic

Frank Smith Evan-Picone, Angelica Career Apparel Blouse and neckpiece by d’Armigene Hat by Borsalino

Frank Smith Evan-Picone, Angelica Career Apparel Blouse by d’Armigene Hat by Borsalino

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Hat, hat insignia: Gift of Teresa Damgaard Jacket insignia: Gift of Hildur Kirchdoerfer

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Blouse and neckpiece: Gift of Teresa Damgaard Hat, hat insignia: Gift of Ingrid Templeton Jacket insignia: SFO Museum Cape: Gift of Virginia Masero in memory of Florence C. Wood

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.109, .110, .119, .122 a b, 2007.051.044

2001.016.071 a b, .117, .118, 2001.184.003 a b, 2005.150.013 L2016.0301.055-.060

2001.016.107-.108, 2001.040.002 a b, 2001.122.016 a b, 2001.131.002, 2007.051.031 L2016.0301.079-.085, .149

page 146 United Air Lines female flight attendant uniform 1973

page 147 United Air lines flight attendant uniform 1973

page 149 United Air Lines female flight attendant uniform 1973

Jean Louis Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation

Jean Louis Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx wool, synthetic fabric

2012.100.077, .083, .087, .114

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation

2006.017.020, 2012.100.071-.072, .081 L2016.0301.051-.053, .266

page 151 Union de Transports Aériens female flight attendant uniform 1973

page 155 Trans World Airlines (TWA) female flight attendant uniform 1974

page 158 Braniff International Airways female flight attendant uniform 1974

André Courrèges

Stan Herman Fashionaire, a Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx

Emilio Pucci

Courtesy of Air France L2016.0306.006.01-.03

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc.

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Dress insignia: SFO Museum

2002.113.128, .132-.133, .135, .139, .143 L2016.0301.117, .118, .120, .121, .321

2001.016.049 a b, .051, 2016.023.017 L2016.0301.135 a b, .136, .148

page 160 Qantas Airways flight hostess uniform 1974

page 165 Pan American World Airways female flight attendant uniform 1975

Emilio Pucci Amalfi

Edith Head Hat by Geo W. Bollman

Gift of Margaret Bowen-Jones Jacket, jacket insignia: Courtesy of Qantas Heritage Collection Belt, jacket buttons: Courtesy of Joan Gilbert

Jacket: Gift of World Wings International, Inc., New Jersey Chapter Dress: Gift of Brigette Smith Hat, blouse, jacket insignia: Gift of Teresa Damgaard Belt, scarf: Gift of Thomas G. Dragges

page 159 Braniff International Airways female flight attendant uniform with serving dress 1974 Emilio Pucci Gift of Thomas G. Dragges 2001.016.050, .052 L2016.0301.133-.134

2008.136.004 L2016.0301.183, L2016.0314.001-.002, L2016.0319.001-002 a c

220

Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation Jacket insignia: Gift of Georgia Panter Nielsen

2012.100.082, .076, .073, .139

2001.016.016, .302, 2001.184.001, 2002.069.003, 2005.149.009, 2005.155.025, 2014.132.069 L2016.0301.068-.072, .093, .125

page 166 Alia Royal Jordanian Airlines female flight attendant uniform 1976

page 169 Air France Concorde female flight attendant uniform 1976

page 170 United Airlines female flight attendant uniform 1976

Papou Lahoud Papou International

Jean Patou

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges

L2016.0306.003

Stan Herman Fashionaire, A Division of Hart, Schaffner & Marx Hat by Geo W. Bollman

Courtesy of Air France

2002.094.064-.065, .067-.069 L2016.0301.221-.225

Gift of Diane Willems Vaughan Hat: Gift of United Airlines Historical Foundation 2005.018.005, .030-.031, .034, .037, .038, 2012.100.105 L2016.0301.169-.175

page 173 Japan Air Lines (JAL) female flight attendant uniform 1977

page 174 Braniff International Airways female flight attendant uniform 1977

Hanae Mori Hitsujiya Jacket by Onward Kashiyama

Halston

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges

Gift of Thomas G. Dragges 2001.016.037, .038, .043 L2016.0301.158-.160

2001.016.183 a-.185, 2001.134.028, 2002.094.112 L2016.0301.236-.240

page 177 Trans World Airlines (TWA) female flight service manager uniform 1978 Ralph Lauren Fashionaire Blouse by Hathaway for Her Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Blouse, tie, pocket square: Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. Jacket insignia: SFO Museum 2001.016.315, .316, 2002.113.173, .180, .182, 2007.051.045 L2016.0301.227-.232

page 178 Union de Transports Aériens female flight attendant uniform 1979

page 180 Pan American World Airways female flight attendant uniform 1980

page 183 Qantas Airways female flight attendant uniform 1986

Hermès International, S. A.

Adolfo Omniform Hat by Geo W. Bollman Blouse by Stonington

Yves Saint Laurent

Gift of Annette Kiewietdejonge 2004.014.003, .008 L2016.0301.115-.116

Gift of Suzanne de Monchaux 2002.074.024, .043-.045, .048 L2016.0301.106-.110

Gift of Brigette Smith Hat: Gift of Rose Caton Ribbon bow tie: Gift of Teresa Damgaard Pocket square: Gift of Thomas G. Dragges Jacket insignia: Gift of Barnaby Conrad III 2001.016.015, 2001.038.073, 2001.040.021, 2001.184.008, 2002.070.002, 2005.155.008-.009, .011-.012 L2016.0301.086-.090, .092, .322, .323

page 186 Union de Transports Aériens female flight attendant uniform 1987

page 189 Eastern Air Lines female flight attendant uniform 1990

page 193 Air France female flight attendant uniform 2005

Christian Dior

Fashion World Career Apparel Hat by Frank Olive

Christian Lacroix

Gift of Diana Rudner Jacket insignia: SFO Museum Scarf: Courtesy of Rikki Drescher-Pedurand

L2016.0306.004.01, .02, .03

Gift of Annette Kiewietdejonge 2004.014.010, .015, .016, .018, L2016.301.251-.254

Courtesy of Air France

2007.033.003-.007, 2009.100.089 L2016.0301.242-.247, L2016.0322.001

page 194 Aeroméxico female flight attendant uniform 2008

page 196 Virgin Atlantic Airways female flight attendant uniform 2014

Macario Jiménez D’nieto

Vivienne Westwood

Anonymous gift Jacket insignia: Courtesy of Aeroméxico Scarf: Courtesy of Veronica Dawson

L2016.0302.001-.003, .007, .008

2012.064.001-.003 L2016.0301.248-.250, L2016.0313.009-.010

Courtesy of Virgin Atlantic Airways

All uniforms are from the Collection of SFO Museum unless otherwise noted. All photography by SFO Museum.

221

IMAGE CREDITS

front cover Braniff International Airways hostess in uniform by Emilio Pucci c. 1965

page 17 right Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess Audrey McNamara Nevis c. 1945

photograph

SFO Museum Gift of the Estate of Audrey McNamara Nevis

Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, UT-Dallas R2016.0318.001

photograph

2013.057.001

page 48 Pan American World Airways stewardess in uniform by Don Loper c. 1964 photograph SFO Museum Gift of World Wings International, San Francisco Bay Area Chapter 2014.060.018

page 6 Boeing Air Transport stewardesses in front of a Boeing 80 1930

page 19 United Air Lines stewardesses standing next to a portable stairway 1948

photograph

slide

Collection of United Airlines Archives

SFO Museum Gift of Joe Breeze

photograph

2018.057.011

R2016.0325.002

R2016.0307.002

page 8 left Ellen Church, first stewardess hired by Boeing Air Transport (later United Air Lines) stands at the door of a United Air Lines Douglas DC-3 1940

page 24 Air France stewardess in uniform by Christian Dior with a Boeing 707 in background 1963

photograph

SFO Museum Gift of United Airlines Archives

Air France Collection.DR/Air France Museum Collection.DR

1999.047.311

page 8 right Boeing Air Transport (later United Air Lines) stewardess serving fruit in the cabin of a Boeing 80 c. 1930

R2016.0306.007

page 26 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostesses in uniforms by Oleg Cassini 1950s

photograph

photograph SFO Museum

Collection of United Airlines Archives

Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc.

R2016.0307.016

2002.113.388

page 11 United Air Lines stewardess Helen Huntley at the door of a Douglas DC-3 c. 1938

page 30 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess in uniform by Oleg Cassini 1950s

photograph

Collection of United Airlines Archives

Allan Cash Picture Library, Alamy Stock Photo

R2016.0307.017

R2016.0325.003

page 13 left United Air Lines stewardess Helene Dessiaume with Miss San Diego at San Francisco Airport c. 1939

page 34 United Air Lines stewardesses c. 1960

photograph

United Air Lines Shield magazine, February 1960 photograph

SFO Museum Gift of Vicki McCaslin in memory of Helene Dessiaume

SFO Museum Gift of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Aceâ&#x20AC;? and Claire Dibble

2004.043.001.027

2001.140.004.031

page 13 right United Air Lines stewardesses pose before a Douglas DC-3 c. 1939 photograph

page 37 Pan American World Airways stewardesses in Don Loper uniform with a Douglas DC-6 in background c. 1959

Collection of United Airlines Archives

photograph

R2016.0307.014

SFO Museum Gift of Teresa Damgaard

page 14 left Transcontinental & Western Air (TWA) hostesses salute in front of a Boeing 307 Stratoliner c. 1939 photograph

2010.245.001

page 39 Air France stewardesses in uniforms by Christian Dior 1963

Courtesy of anonymous lender

photograph

R2016.0312.002

Air France Collection.DR/Air France Museum Collection.DR

page 14 right Transcontinental & Western Air (TWA) hostess Helen Mosier in the doorway of a Boeing 307 Stratoliner c. 1940 photograph SFO Museum Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.389

page 17 left Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess Audrey McNamara Nevis with a Douglas DC-3 in background c. 1945

R2016.0306.015

page 44 left United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Ben Reig, instructor DiAnn (Marcus) Bormes on left 1966 photograph SFO Museum Gift of DiAnn Bormes 2015.110.019

page 44 right United Air Lines stewardess in uniform by Ben Reig c. 1963

photograph

SFO Museum Gift of the Estate of Audrey McNamara Nevis

R2016.0307.004

2013.057.004

Collection of United Airlines Archives

page 50 upper United Air Lines stewardess in uniform by Travilla next to a Boeing 727 c. 1965 Courtesy of anonymous lender

page 50 lower United Air Lines stewardess in uniform by Travilla 1965 photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives R2016.0307.005

page 54 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess graduating class wearing uniforms by Pierre Balmain and Don Loper c. 1966 photograph SFO Museum Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.384

page 56 left Continental Airlines hostesses in a Boeing 747 mockup c. 1970 photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives R2016.0307.023

page 56 right Continental Airlines hostesses on an airliner stairway c. 1967 photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives R2016.0307.024

page 58 American Airlines stewardesses c. 1967 photograph American Airlines C.R. Smith Museum R2016.0308.004

page 62 Trans World Airlines (TWA) graduating class hostesses c. 1968 photograph SFO Museum Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.383

page 65 Trans World Airlines (TWA) graduating class hostesses 1968 photograph SFO Museum Gift of TWA Clipped Wings International, Inc. 2002.113.397

page 66 Braniff International Airways hostesses in uniforms by Emilio Pucci at the Paris Air Show 1966 photograph Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas R2016.0318.011

page 69 Braniff International Airways advertisement with hostess in uniforms by Emilio Pucci (detail) c. 1966 photograph Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas R2016.0318.004

222

page 70 Braniff International Airways hostesses in uniforms by Emilio Pucci c. 1966

page 90 upper United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Jean Louis c. 1968

page 119 United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Jean Louis c. 1970

photograph

Collection of United Airlines Archives

SFO Museum Gift of Sandra C. A. Thomas in memory of Anne Karin Walker

R2016.0307.019

R2016.0307.022

page 90 lower United Air Lines stewardess instructor DiAnn (Marcus) Bormes in uniform by Jean Louis c. 1968

page 121 United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms and serving smock by Jean Louis c. 1970

photograph

SFO Museum Gift of DiAnn Bormes

SFO Museum Gift of United Airlines Archives

2015.110.015

1999.047.169

page 93 Air France stewardess in uniform by CristĂłbal Balenciaga c. 1969 photograph

page 122 United Air Lines Boeing 747 upper-deck lounge with stewardesses and steward in uniforms by Jean Louis c. 1970

Air France Collection.DR/Air France Museum Collection.DR

photograph

R2016.0306.011

SFO Museum Gift of United Airlines Archives

2015.062.035

page 71 Braniff International Airways hostess in uniform by Emilio Pucci 1966 photograph Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas R2016.0318.008

page 72 Braniff International Airways hostess in uniform with outerwear by Emilio Pucci c. 1965 photograph Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas

page 96 Delta Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Harry Gilbert c. 1969

1999.047.301

Courtesy of Delta Air Lines

page 127 Continental Airlines hostesses c. 1970

R2016.0318.009

R2016.0320.003

photograph

page 74 Air West stewardess in uniform by Oleg Cassini 1968 photograph

page 98 Braniff International Airways hostesses in uniforms by Emilio Pucci c. 1971

Courtesy of Delta Air Lines

photograph

R2016.0320.001

Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas

page 77 Union de Transports AĂŠriens stewardesses in uniforms by Pierre Cardin 1968 photograph Air France Collection.DR/Air France Museum Collection.DR R2016.0306.008

page 80 United Air Lines stewardesses in Jean Louis uniform with a Boeing 727 in background c. 1968 photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives R2016.0307.020

page 82 American Airlines stewardesses c. 1967 photograph American Airlines C.R. Smith Museum R2016.0308.005

page 85 American Airlines stewardesses c. 1967 photograph American Airlines C.R. Smith Museum R2016.0308.003

page 87 United Air Lines stewardess in uniform by Jean Louis 1968 photograph

photograph

Collection of United Airlines Archives R2016.0307.009

page 128 United Air Lines flight attendants in uniforms by Jean Louis at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) c. 1973 photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives

R2016.0318.010

R2016.0307.026

page 102 upper Hughes Airwest hostesses in uniforms by Mario Armond Zamparelli c. 1972

page 131 Japan Air Lines (JAL) stewardesses in uniforms by Hanae Mori 1970

photograph

The Hughes Airwest Collection, The Museum of Flight

Courtesy of Japan Airlines

R2016.0323.001

R2016.0326.001

page 102 lower Hughes Airwest hostesses in uniforms by Mario Armond Zamparelli 1972

page 132 American Airlines staff in uniforms by Bill Blass with a Ford Tri-Motor in background 1970

Sundancer in-flight magazine

photograph

SFO Museum Gift of Keith Schuddeboom

American Airlines C.R. Smith Museum

2009.061.014.001.002

page 107 Pacific Southwest Airlines (PSA) stewardesses on aircraft stairs 1974 PSA magazine, September 1974 Courtesy of Kevin Trinkle, psa-history.org R2016.0328.001

page 109 Cathay Pacific Airways flight attendants in uniforms by Pierre Balmain c. 1974 photograph

R2016.0308.006

page 135 Trans World Airlines (TWA) hostess wearing uniform by Valentino c. 1971 photograph BNA Photographic / Alamy Stock Photo R2016.0325.004

page 140 Pan American World Airways stewardesses in uniforms by Frank Smith 1971 photograph

Cathay Pacific Airways

R2016.0307.005

SFO Museum Gift of Jon E. Krupnick

R2016.0324.001

2008.056.1125

page 89 upper United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Jean Louis c. 1968

page 112 United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Jean Louis c. 1970 photograph

page 142 Pan American World Airways stewardesses in uniforms by Frank Smith in front of a Boeing 747 c. 1971

Collection of United Airlines Archives

photograph

Collection of United Airlines Archives

photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives R2016.0307.007

R2016.0307.021

page 89 lower United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Jean Louis, Jean Louis standing in center c. 1968

page 114 United Air Lines stewardesses in uniforms by Jean Louis c. 1970

photograph

Collection of United Airlines Archives

SFO Museum Gift of the Pan Am Association 2000.058.0503.009

photograph R2016.0307.025

R2016.0307.018

223

page 145 Pan American World Airways stewardess Ululani Minn Jung in uniform by Frank Smith c. 1971

page 185 Qantas Airways flight attendants in uniforms by Yves Saint Laurent 1986

photograph

SFO Museum Gift of World Wings International

R2016.0314.005

2012.155.001.535 b

page 147 United Air Lines flight attendants in uniforms by Jean Louis 1970s photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives

Qantas Heritage Collection

page 190 Virgin Atlantic Airways flight attendant in uniform by Vivienne Westwood c. 2014 photograph Courtesy of Virgin Atlantic Airways

R2016.0307.008

R2016.0302.009

page 150 Union de Transports Aériens flight attendants in uniforms by André Courrèges 1973

page 192 Air France female flight attendant in uniform by Christian Lacroix 2005

photograph Air France Collection.DR/Air France Museum Collection.DR

R2016.0306.012

R2016.0306.014

page 152 United Airlines flight attendants in uniforms by Stan Herman 1976

page 197 Virgin Atlantic Airways flight attendant in uniform by Vivienne Westwood c. 2014

photograph Collection of United Airlines Archives R2016.0307.013

photograph Courtesy of Virgin Atlantic Airways R2016.0302.010

page 161 Qantas Airways hostess in uniform by Emilio Pucci 1974 photograph Qantas Heritage Collection R2016.0314.004

page 164 Pan American World Airways flight attendants in uniforms by Edith Head 1975 photograph SFO Museum Gift of Jon E. Krupnick 2008.056.1127

page 168 Air France Concorde flight attendant in uniform by Jean Patou 1976 photograph Air France Collection.DR/Air France Museum Collection.DR R2016.0306.013

page 172 Japan Air Lines (JAL) stewardesses in uniforms by Hanae Mori c. 1977 photograph Courtesy of Japan Airlines R2016.0326.002

page 175 Halston (seated) with Braniff International Airways personnel 1977 photograph Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas R2016.0318.007

page 176 Trans World Airlines (TWA) flight attendants in uniforms by Ralph Lauren with a Boeing 747 in background 1978 photograph Vogue magazine, June 1978 Courtesy of anonymous lender R2016.0325.001

page 181 Pan American World Airways flight attendant in uniform by Adolfo c. 1980 photograph SFO Museum Gift of the Estate of Fred Nott 2004.016.142

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page 198 Virgin Atlantic Airways flight attendants in uniforms by Vivienne Westwood c. 2014 photograph Courtesy of Virgin Atlantic Airways R2016.0302.011

page 200 Braniff International Airways hostess in uniform by Emilio Pucci with fur coat and boots jumping on a trampoline 1966 photograph Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas R2016.0318.012

page 204 Pan American World Airways stewardess graduation class, New York City 1965 photograph SFO Museum Gift of Mary Jo Hunt 2015.150.030

page 207 Woman wearing gloves with flight bag in front of a Pan American World Airways Boeing 707 1960s photograph SFO Museum 2001.108.020

page 208 Braniff International Airways hostess in uniform by Emilio Pucci on aircraft stairs 1966 photograph Braniff International Public Relations Archives, History of Aviation Collection, Special Collections and Archives Division, Eugene McDermott Library, The University of Texas at Dallas R2016.0318.013

page 212 Pan American World Airways stewardesses in uniforms with purses receiving pins c. 1960 photograph SFO Museum Gift of the Pan Am Association 2000.058.0503.080

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The majority of the uniforms in this publication were selected from the permanent collection at SFO Museum. The Museum is grateful for the generosity of the collection’s donors and the lenders who made additional uniforms, accessories, and images available for this publication. These include Aeroméxico; Air France; American Airlines C.R. Smith Museum; Delta Air Lines; Delta Flight Museum; Flight Path Learning Center & Museum, LAX; Frontiers of Flight Museum, Japan Airlines; Love Field, Dallas, Texas; The Museum of Flight; NWA History Centre, Inc., Bloomington, Minnesota; Qantas Heritage Collection; History of Aviation Collection, The University of Texas at Dallas; United Airlines Archives; Virgin Atlantic Airways; and other private sources.

BIBLIOGRAPHY Black, Prudence. The Flight Attendant’s Shoe. Sydney: New South Publishing, 2011. Blanco F., José, ed. Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe, Vol. 4., The post-war period into the 21st century. Santa Barbara, CA: ABC-CLIO, 2016. Cole, Daniel James and Nancy Deihl. The History of Modern Fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing, Ltd., 2015. Dirix, Emmanuelle. Dressing the Decades: Twentieth-Century Vintage Style. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2016. Dirix, Emmanuelle and Charlotte Fiell. 1940s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook. London: Goodman Fiell Publishing, 2013. Flügel, John Carl. The Psychology of Clothes. Oxford, England: Hogarth Press, 1930. Gundle, Stephen. Glamour: A History. New York: Oxford University Press, 2008. Joseph, Nathan. Uniforms and Nonuniforms: Communication Through Clothing. New York: Greenwood Press, 1986. Laver, James. Costume and Fashion: A Concise History. New York: Thames & Hudson, Inc., 2002. Miller, Lesley Ellis. Balenciaga. London: V & A Publishing, 2007. Müller, Florence. Elegance in the Skies: A History of Air France Uniforms. Edited by Éric Reinhardt. Saint-Herblain, France: Air France/Le Govic Printing, 2004. Steele, Valerie, ed. Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, Vol. 3. New York: Scribner, 2005. Waddell, Gavin. How Fashion Works: Couture, Ready-to-Wear & Mass Production. Oxford, England: Blackwell Publishing, 2013. Walford, Jonathan. Sixties Fashion: From Less is More to Youthquake. London: Thames & Hudson, Inc., 2013. Wilson, Elizabeth. The Contradictions of Culture: Cities, Culture, Women. London: Sage Publications, 2001.

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Printed on recycled paper, using soy-based inks

ISBN 9780692711330

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9 780692 711330