Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in the Roaring Fork Valley and Neighboring Communities
No. 19 sUMMER 2012
justice snow’s: cocktail culture meets creative cuisine andrew zimmern eats it all • walking the talk at holy terror farm smith fork ranch • cowboy caviar • sizzling summer recipes Member of Edible Communities
contents summer 2012
DEPARTMENTS 2 GRIST FOR THE MILL
By Lisa Houston
7 NOTABLE EDIBLES
Events, news and notes from the local food movement
12 NOW IN SEASON 14 COOKING FRESH
Charred & Scruffed: Bold new techniques for explosive flavor on and off the grill
By Adam Perry Lang with Peter Kaminsky
19 FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Cowboy Caviar: A Rocky Mountain tradition
By Brook Le Van
39 LIQUID ASSETS
Pacifica’s Nathan Harnish wins regional competition with farm-to-table cocktail
45 EDIBLE TRADITIONS
One grocery, many generations
By Aspen Historical Society
46 RESOURCES 48 THE LAST BITE
By Lauren Berley
FEATURES 22 FROM THE LAND
Walking the talk at Holy Terror Farm
By Nelson Harvey
27 Q&A WITH ANDREW ZIMMERN
Photograph courtesy of Smith Fork Ranch
By Amiee White Beazley
30 movers and shakers
Justice Snow’s brings the Wheeler’s past into the present
By Stewart Oksenhorn
40 DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS
Mountain adventure and culinary distinction at Smith Fork Ranch
Kathryn Anzalone assists Sophie Nielsen, age 5, on a Breakfast Ride at Smith Fork Ranch.
By Amiee White Beazley
Cover: Photograph by Brent Moss. SUMMER 2012 edibleASPEN.com 1
{ delicious destinations }
Where the West is One Smith Fork Ranch brings the storied West to life in one pristine location By Amiee White Beazley
W
hen I was growing up in the hectic buzz of the East Coast, I dreamed of exploring the open West. I wanted to be in the wilderness, living in a cabin, with rivers and swimmin’ holes, horses, a garden and fresh eggs. Even for many of us who now live in the Roaring Fork Valley, that quest for unbridled freedom somehow eluded us with the rude interference of daily suburban grind. But all hope is not lost. Life in the romantic, adventurous and authentic West can be found at Smith Fork Ranch, near Crawford, Colorado. With views of the most impressive Needle Rock formation, surrounded by Gunnison National Forest, the vintage property has a history as a working guest ranch. And in the 1930s and 40s, was already known for hosting community gatherings, dinners and celebrations. The property was then abandoned and fell into disrepair, only to be resurrected and enhanced by current owners Marley and Linda Hodgson, and their family. “I wanted a place where I could help bring in the hay,” jokes Marley, who with his wife, Linda, and two children often visited the region from their previous home in New York. What he really wanted was “a piece of the working West,” he says, a place with tradition, heart and 40 SUMMER 2012 edibleASPEN.com
where he and Linda could share in that experience with others. After two and a half years of transformation, the virtual ghost town was reborn as an all-inclusive luxury getaway for those who are ready to turn off TVs (you’ll be hard pressed to find one on property), power down their phones (no reception, hallelujah!) and live like kids again. Everything for guests is at the ready, and the young, amicable staff is steadfast with boundless energy so you can experience it all. The service and lodgings are impeccable, but what separates Smith Fork Ranch from other guest ranches is the level of cuisine. When people think of a guest ranch they may assume chuck wagon fare. Don’t expect to find beans in a tin can over an open fire at Smith Fork. Organic produce is brought in directly from the garden, just 75 yards away, by head gardener Alma Roberts. And what is grown is also what is served, says executive chef Seth Bateman. Every meal is improvised from that day’s garden harvest, making each meal’s menu dynamic and fresh. The connection to the land is important for Smith Fork, honoring the tradition in this valley of the Ute Indians, who used the land here for summer hunting and fishing. At 33 years old, Chef Bateman is
ambitious in learning about the land and motivated in process, curing his own meats, making sausages and cheese in the winter and preparing three meals a day in summer for guests. The day I arrived with my family we approached the River Cabin that sits along the rushing Smith Fork River to find a picnic basket filled with smoked brisket sandwiches, goat cheese, balsamic onions and arugula on house-made bread. Each day a lunch basket of guests’ choosing is available so that guests can discover a new location to enjoy. Dinner began with an exciting handmade cavatelli with a welltextured almond pesto, rapini, golden raisins and aged cheddar. A warm spinach salad was heated precisely so the spinach kept its bite and flavor (not wilted to its demise), followed by seared scallops in garlic cream with radishes, snow peas and house-cured bacon. Dinner was paired with wine from the Hodgsons’ private cellar. Most days the Hodgson’s can be found on the ranch, mingling with guests,
offering expertise, sharing a meal. A delicious and bright final course of ricotta fritters with olive oil sabayon and cherry-lemon marmalade kept our attention to the plate, even as the “Supermoon” declared itself over the mountains and illuminated the grounds. Every meal during our stay was noteworthy—even Sunday brunch, which at some resorts is an afterthought. Roasted pork loin, lamb tartine and extra-thick French toast served with walnut-rosemary maple syrup and house-made chorizo were among the winners on the menu. (For the record, chef Bateman’s house-cured bacon with maple glaze and pecans might be near the perfect breakfast food.) Smith Fork Ranch is one of the special places in the world where you feel connected—to people, to wilderness, to your food, yourself and your family. You savor every moment, every flavor, every memory. It’s what the West is all about.
Approaching the entrance to Smith Fork Ranch on Needle Rock Road, with Needle Rock and the West Elk Wilderness in the background. Photograph by Steve Z Photography. SUMMER 2012 edibleASPEN.com 41
Off-site excursions Smith Fork Ranch will arrange for guests to visit local wineries, galleries, restaurants and towns, such as nearby Crawford and Paonia. Many guests visit the North Rim Glass Studio and Gallery, where they can take part in glassblowing instruction. northrimglassstudio.com.
Getting There The drive from the Aspen area to Crawford is an easy one. Take 82 West to Route 133 over McClure Pass. Take a left to Paonia and onto Crawford Road. Smith Fork is unlike much of the dry “moonscape” topography of this area. Surrounded by more than a million acres in the Gunnison National Forest and West Elk Mountains, Smith Fork Ranch is surrounded by three miles of Smith Fork River, trees and rolling hills, two hours from Aspen.
Adults Only Smith Fork hosts an adult-only weeklong stay each summer (July 22– 28, 2012) and a Cowgirl Weekend just for women (offered in fall). Call for rates.
the morning followed by time on one of the five
Activities Horseback Riding, Lessons and Arena: Friendly guides, one in front of our group and another in back, made us comfortable with their knowledge of the animals, trails and local lore. We were thrilled with river crossings, steep inclines and attention to local rock formations and landmarks. During the summer there are breakfast rides, all-day picnic rides, sunset rides to evening cookouts. Flyfishing: Dry land instruction in
stocked trout ponds or, when river flows allow, three miles of the seldom-fished Smith Fork River. Archery: Our family participated in an archery class (even our 3-year-old). We each learned the ropes of safety and sport and shot at four individual targets near the river. On the Ranch: Horseshoes, a snooker table, a game room and miles of hiking and mountain bike trails round out the endless activities. (Custom activities can also be created to individual preferences.) And dispersed through the property are hammocks for lounging, comfortable nooks and crannies for naps and a hot tub where an afternoon soak is perfect after a long day of exploring.
Warm Spinach Salad with Baby Potatoes,Sliced Bresaola, Farm Egg and Green Garlic–Anchovy Vinaigrette Green Garlic-Anchovy Vinaigrette 1 stalk green garlic, sliced thin on the bias ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar 2 salt-cured anchovy fillets, rinsed, small dice Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1. Sauté the green garlic with 1 tablespoon olive oil until soft, then add vinegar. Reduce vinegar until au sec (nearly dry). 2. Place all ingredients into mixing bowl and whisk to combine.
Executive Chef Seth Bateman 42 SUMMER 2012 edibleASPEN.com
RECIPES COURTESY OF EXECUTIVE CHEF SETH BATEMAN, SMITH FORK RANCH
For the dish ½ cup green garlic–anchovy vinaigrette ½ pound baby potatoes, cooked until soft then sliced ¼ inch thick ¼ pound Bloomsdale spinach ¼ cup chives, sliced 20 thin slices of Bresaola 4 farm eggs, poached 1. Warm the vinaigrette on very low heat in a sauté pan. Add the potatoes and spinach and warm slightly. Toss in chives and remove from heat. (You don’t want to sauté the spinach, you just want it slightly above room temperature.) 2. Divide the mix among 4 plates, drape 5 pieces of Bresaola over each salad and top with poached egg. Drizzle any leftover vinaigrette over the egg and around the plate. Serves 4.
Flatbread with Garlic Cream, Pancetta, Wild Mushrooms, Asparagus, Pickled Green Garlic, Farm Egg and Parmesan Flatbread Dough ¼ ounce yeast 1 cup warm water 2 cups bread flour 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon salt 1. Place yeast and water in a bowl and let sit for 10 minutes. Once yeast has bloomed, combine all other ingredients into the bowl and mix until dough has formed, about 2−3 minutes. 2. Knead for 5 minutes. Place dough in oiled bowl, cover and let sit until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes. 3. Divide dough into 4 pieces and roll each piece into a ball. Let sit and rise again for about 30 minutes. 4. Roll the dough out into 8-inch circles with a rolling pin. Pickled Green Garlic 1 head and stalk green garlic, sliced thinly on the bias ½ cup Champagne vinegar ¼ cup sugar 1 tablespoon salt Place all ingredients into a saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook for 2 minutes. Let cool, then strain off liquid.
Family Kids are never an afterthought at Smith Fork Ranch. There are scavenger hunts, overnight trips to the Ute Indian replica teepees, a treetop treehouse, and they are encouraged to try all of the organized activities on site. Every day children can also participate in an organized kids’ camp with Smith Fork camp counselors. The days include arts and crafts, hikes, games and the Smith Fork regatta toy boat building activity followed by a race on the river, just to name a few. And when it’s time for some alone time, guests can opt for an adultonly dinner. Young children eat during cocktail hour in a separate location and then happily play with Smith Fork Ranch staff while parents of small children share in the bizarre practice of adult conversation.
Photographs courtesy of Smith Fork Ranch
Accommodations Smith Fork offers yearround accommodation in three individual cabins, the River Cabin house, and five individual rooms in the main guesthouse. During the summer high season (June 17–August 25) guests stay for six nights (Sunday–Saturday) and enjoy all the onsite activities and meals included in the cost of accommodations. Prices start at $6,200 for the week (double occupancy). Accommodation for one or more nights during fall, winter and spring seasons begins at $375 for bed and breakfast (activities a la carte) or $1,050 per night for an all-inclusive stay (double occupancy).
For the dish 2 heads garlic, peeled ½ cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon olive oil ¼ pound wild mushrooms (morels, shiitakes, etc.) 1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme 1 bunch asparagus 13 thin slices pancetta Pickled green garlic Flatbread dough Parmesan 1. Place garlic in a small sauce pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, drain water from garlic and cover again with cold water. Repeat this process three times. After the third time, cover with the heavy cream and cook over low heat until thickened. Purée in a blender. 2. In a heavy skillet over medium-high heat, add butter and olive oil. Once butter is frothy, add mushrooms; cook until caramelized and no water remains. Finish with chopped thyme. 3. Place asparagus in a large pot of salted boiling water, and cook for 2 minutes. Remove asparagus and plunge into ice water to cool. Once cool, remove, dry and slice into 1-inch lengths. 4. Place pancetta slices on a cookie sheet and bake at 350° until crisp. 5. Once all ingredients are prepped (which can be done well in advance) you can prepare the flatbreads. I like to use a large cast-iron skillet and a 400° oven. Spray a skillet lightly with cooking spray and heat over medium-high heat. Place the flatbread dough in the skillet. Once it starts to puff a little, place asparagus, mushrooms and pancetta on top, then crack a farm egg over the middle.
GO FIND IT!
6. Place the skillet in the oven and cook until the flatbread is nice and crispy brown around the edges and the egg is cooked sunny-side up.
Smith Fork Ranch, Crawford 970.921.3454 smithforkranch.com
7. Remove from the oven, place the flatbread on a serving tray and drizzle with the garlic cream, add pickled green garlic. Shave Parmesan on top. You can also cook these flatbreads on the grill. Makes 4 flatbreads. SUMMER 2012 edibleASPEN.com 43