w w w. s g n o w. s g | 2 0 1 5 M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
Beerfest!
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #680 | JUN 19, 2015 since 1995
CELEBRATING 20 YEARS
what’s on what’s new what matters
Former residents of Singapore’s Southern Islands return home in the Island Nation project, now on display at the National Library Turn to HERITAGE , page 8, for more on this series
TRAVEL
DIGITAL
FOOD
INTERVIEW
Beautiful Bhutan
Start-ups in Singapore
Seah Im Food Centre
The Ambassador of Geylang
w w w. s g n o w. s g | 2 0 1 5 M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #680 | JUN 19, 2015 since 1995
CELEBRATING 20 YEARS
page 3 11 cityscape
Start a Start-up
Are You a Singapore Yuccie?
6 music
8 heritage
Baybeats
Island Nation
10 neighborhood
14 tech
Do you:
Tons To Do in Tanglin
Drone Alert
• Do freelance PR/marketing specializing in Instagram?
• Buy sixpacks of craft beer for your fridge at Thirsty’s? • Own a copy of Sonny Liew’s The Art of Charlie Chan Hock Chye, but haven’t gotten around to reading it yet?
16 new bar
18 dining
Nekkid
The Best of Seah Im
20 travel
22 interview
The Valleys of Bhutan
Geylang’s Young Ambassador
Editorial Managing Editor Mrigaa Sethi editor@asia-city.com.sg
Advertising Director, Business Development Intan Agustina advertising@asia-city.com.sg Senior Manager, Media & Marketing Shernan Plameras
Features Editor Chelsia Tan Dining Editor Letitia Tandean
Executives, Media & Marketing Lee Wee Keong, Swathi Raj
Design Associate Art Director Carmen Louise Ho Senior Designer Fishy Toh Designer Celeste Chooi
Marketing Marketing Manager Silver Adrienna Ng marketing@asia-city.com.sg
Content Sales & Custom Media Content Director Clara Lim customcontent@asia-city.com.sg
Where to find us!
Shanghai shonline@asia‑city.com.cn
• Feel utterly fulfilled at your dream job in a Little India shophouse? • Sell pricey artisanal food products at Kranji Countryside Farmers Market, having quit a corporate job?
• Live in an aging HDB that’s tricked out with gorgeous interior design inspired by old kopitiams? • Repost articles/petitions decrying gentrification in Tiong Bahru/Geylang? • Rent a desk at The Working Capitol where you’re planning world domination with your creative start-up?
Publisher & General Manager Ric Stockfis countrymanager@asia-city.com.sg
Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02‑624‑9696 Fax: 02‑237‑5656 bkmagazine@asia‑city.co.th
• Make time every year for a yoga retreat in Ubud?
• Or do creative branding work for Google, Airbnb, Facebook or places like that?
Who's in charge?
Marketing & Admin Assistant Geraldine Tan
Contributor Terry Ong Finance Finance Manager Victorina Ocado finance@asia-city.com.sg Group Directors Chief Executive Officer Gretchen Worth gworth@asia‑city.co.th Group Digital Director Greg Duncan gduncan@asia‑city.com.sg On the cover Island Nation exhibition, photo by Edwin Koo
• Dress almost exclusively in unlined blazers made with eco-friendly, socially-conscious fabrics that cost hundreds of dollars? • Have a blog that’s gotten big and can afford an editorial assistant? If you answered yes to three or more, congratulations, you’re a Singapore yuccie. Go forth and change the world.
Who are we?
Published every two weeks (with daily updates at sgnow.sg), SG (previously I-S) delivers honest, independent and irreverent coverage of the Singapore lifestyle scene. We’ve been recommending what to do and where to go here for 20 years—and we’ve never been more excited about the city than we are right now.
The Asia City Media Group
Kuala Lumpur Pacific Tourism Communications Sdn Bhd Lot 2.44‑2.45, 2nd Floor, Wisma Cosway, Jalan Raja Chulan, 50200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel: 60‑3‑2144‑4886 Fax: 60‑3‑2141‑1911
Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07‑02 Henderson Industrial Park Distributed by Singapore 159552 Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 Fax: 65‑6323‑2779 contact@asia-city.com.sg
free ebook of every issue
issuu.com/sg_magazine SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
Awesome events, cool new places, the very best of the next two weeks
High-end, hawker and everything inbetween: news on the drink and dining scene
Hot topics, local initiatives and ideas for making Singapore even better
Because Singapore is only so big: the best deals and destinations around Asia
Fashion, fitness, tech and more
SG Magazine is published 24 times a year by Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd., 211 Henderson Road, #07‑02, Singapore 159552. Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 • Fax: 65‑6323‑2779. Copyright ©2015 Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. The titles “SG Magazine”, “I-S Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of SG Magazine and I-S Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. SG Magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Contact the Publisher for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in SG Magazine must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by KHL Printing Co. Pte. Ltd., 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968. ISSN 0218‑8872 MCI (P) 174/12/2014
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The internet sensation of the past couple of weeks has been the death of the hipster and the rise of the yuccie (pronounced yuckie)—young urban creatives who pursue their bliss but make good money and buy nice things while doing it. Basically, a lovechild between a hipster and a yuppie. Sounded like a lot of hip young Singaporeans to us. Here’s a helpful little questionnaire to identify if you’re one of them.
daily updates on news and events
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last word Irreverent interviews with people who make Singapore great
We hope you like what you see: email us at editorial@asia-city.com.sg to let us know how we’re doing.
latest news and trends
@sg_now
see what we’re up to
@sg_now
up front Our biweekly study of the city’s burgeoning (and dying) trends
WE
Hot: Lots More Taxis
Bronx
Jeremie Lumandong
HOT OR NOT
This week you will mainly love your city for its...
Wheelchair-friendly services on the bus By mid-June, SMRT will add seven new Wheelchair Accessible Bus (WAB) services to its current number of 52 service routes. These buses are designed with wheelchair-friendly features like ramps, horizontal handrails and special push buttons that chime differently for wheelchair-users to alert the driver when they want to get off. Bus captains will also receive special training. The service is rolling out on the 106, 190, 301, 804, 911, 963 and 983 lines.
Not: Waiting. Forever.
GrabTaxi plans to roll out a fleet of 600 on-call cabs by the end of the year by partnering with a rental company. They say they’ll expand to 2,000 cars in the future. For once, you might actually succeed in booking a cab. Atache
OB INDEX Charting the ups and downs of Singapore's openness, tolerance and freedom of expression MAY
Hot: Hotel freebies
SG
Not: Your own toiletries
Surprise, surprise. A recent online poll by The Straits Times revealed that seven out of 10 Singaporeans have no problem helping themselves in hotel rooms. Popular items to pilfer include toiletries (of course), stationery, sewing kits and bedroom slippers.
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The National Arts Council withdrew an $8,000 grant from Malaysianborn Singaporean graphic novelist Sonny Liew for his mammoth new book, The Art of Charlie Chan Hock Chye. The book chronicles the life and times of a fictitious comic book artist over several decades, covering significant moments in Singapore history, such as the bus riots and the so-called Communist Conspiracy. The NAC said the work “undermines the authority or legitimacy” of the government.
Get this issue to go. Free eBook download from issuu.com/sg_magazine (or sign up at sgnow.sg/newsletters to never miss an issue)
NEWS FROM SGNOW.SG
Hot: Gourmet Burgers
Chijmes will have a nightclub again
Not: Gastronomy
Foam and test tubes seem to be taking a momentary backseat to getting down and dirty with our fingers, with the opening of MeatLiquor SIN and Wildfire in recent months. (Even the newest Singapore addition to the San Pellegrino list was the smoky, meaty Burnt Ends.) For more food trends, turn to SG Eats, page 18.
BE GOOD
Walk with your dog On Oct 3, go to East Coast Park for a 2km dog walk and mingle with fellow dog lovers at the mini carnival. Non-pet owners, there are 5km and 10km runs available. Proceeds go towards more community-focused initiatives and covering operating expenses for organizing charities Save Our Street Dogs and Assisi Hospice. Register at www.lightupyourliferun.com.
As Chijmes gears up for a full opening by the year end, there are still some new tenants moving in. And this time, it’s neither a restaurant nor a bar. Slated to open in August, this club is opened by the guys behind Tras Street cocktail bar, H.O.D (House of Dandy). Though the complex was once home to Club Lava and Insomnia, Rakes is set to be the sole nightclub here now (so far anyway) and will occupy a sprawling basement space near Highlander and Berlin. From the sound of it, the club will have a super-luxe “modern playhouse” vibe, with bottle service, red velvet pillars, brass gold Chijmes details and lots of dark wood. There will also be visual effects by Steve Lieberman, who has worked on places like NYC’s Lavo and XS Nightclub in Las Vegas. Website of the Year MPAS 2015 Plus, the same guys are also opening a restaurant at Chijimes, slated to open in July. Although we don’t known much yet, Raven will have a local chef in the kitchen. S I N G A P O R E ’ S H OTT E ST L I F E ST Y L E N E W S
Damien Woon
You can now pick up SG Magazine at these cool venues
The Projector
The Redundant Shop
Maison Ikkoku
Golden Mile Tower #05-00, theprojector.sg
5 Everton Park #01-22, www.redundantshop.com
20 Kandahar Street level 2, www.maisonikkoku.co
Or see every venue (200 of them!) at sgnow.sg/distribution FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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now
The essential guide to what’s on in Singapore Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
THROUGH
Jul 19
ART Being There
An impressive group show featuring works by some of the international art scene’s biggest names, including painter/sculptor Fernando Botero, and photographers Steve McCurry and Sebastiao Salgado. Their works reinterpret the effect travels have on the artist’s psyche. Through Jul 19. Sundaram Tagore Gallery, #01-05 Gillman Barracks, 5 Lock Rd., 6694-3378. Free.
THU
DRINK Beerfest Asia
Jun 25
The big beer festival is back with over 400 international beers and ciders, food booths, live music by tribute bands, a comedy show and even a beer pong tournament. Jun 25-28. Marina Promenade, F1 tracks behind Singapore Flyer, www. beerfestasia.com. $15-180.
FRI
FESTIVAL Baybeats
SAT
COMEDY Asian Invasion Comedy 2015
THROUGH
Jun 20
Six stand-up comedians from America, Japan, the UK and Singapore get together for a three-night show. Comedians include Singaporean Marie Wong, Japanese-American comedienne Atsuko Okatsuka and the “North Korean” MC, who parodies Kim Jong Un. Jun 25-27, 8:30pm. DBS Arts Centre - Home of SRT, 20 Merbau Rd., 6733-8166. $48-58 from SISTIC.
Oct 18
This music festival has over 30 local and regional bands covering genres like folk, punk and electro, and includes bands like TypeWriter and Aquila Vasica. Jun 26-28. Esplanade Outdoor Theatre, 1 Esplanade Dr., 6828-8377, www.baybeats.com.sg. Free.
Jun 26
EXHIBITION The Deep
Over 40 rare deep sea creatures and living fossils, many photographed for the first time, are on display in perfectly preserved crystalline forms. Through Oct 18. ArtScience Museum, Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 6688-8826, www.marinabaysands.com. $14.
THROUGH
POP-UP Faculty Launch
Aug 2
The local menswear label makes its debut at this pop-up arts space. Founded by Larry Peh, who won the President’s Design Award 2014, the collection features lots of staples like shirts, tees, chinos and denim. Also on exhibit are photographs by John Clang. Through Aug 2. K+, #03-14/15 Scotts Square, 6 Scotts Rd., www.kplus.sg. Free.
MUSIC
concerts Wilderness This Swedish indie-pop band makes its debut with signature dreamy tunes from its latest EP, The World Is Not Ours. Jun 20, 8pm. Blu Jaz, 11 Bali Lane, 62923800. $30-40 from Peatix. Getai Holidays Another engaging local music series from the Lepark folks, this time round with intimate selections from young singer-songwriters like Dru Chen, Theodora and Helmizar, is taking place across various weekends. Jun 19-20, Jun 26-27, 7:15pm. 6/F, People’s Park Complex Rooftop, www.lepark.co. Free. A Rooftop Affair This fun and casual rooftop concert located in Serangoon will feature American husband-and-wife team Us the Duo, and young local talents Gentle Bones and ShiGGa Shay. Jul 4, 6:30pm. myVillage Rooftop, 3/F, 1 Maju Avenue, www.myvillage.sg/rooftopaffair. Entry for one for every $90 spent at MyVillage.
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
gigs Fete de la Musique World Music Day brings a night of gypsy jazz with guest band Gypsyfication and their blend of swing, funk and jazz tunes. Jun 20, 8pm. O Comptoir, 79 Circular Rd., 6534-7645, www.facebook.com/OComptoirSG. Free. A Cappella Championships Aspiring a cappella groups, choirs and beatboxers battle it out for the championship title with their renditions of wellknown classic, jazz and pop tunes. Jul 4, 10am. Aliwal Arts Centre, 28 Aliwal St., 6435-0131. $25 from Peatix.
STAGE
musicals Dim Sum Dollies - The History of Singapore Part 1 A re-run of their wildly successful The History of Singapore series, the female trio walks audiences through Singapore’s past through song and dance. Expect flashbacks involving Sang Nila Utama, opium
dens and brothels. Through Jun 21. Esplanade Theatre, 1 Esplanade Dr., 6828-8377, www. dreamacademy.com.sg. $48-148 from Sistic.
dance SG PICK
Singapura: The Musical This musical about Singapore’s struggles preindependence in the ‘50s and ‘60s provides a peek into the lives of ordinary people during trying times, set against musical numbers and featuring an international cast. Through Jun 28. Capitol Theatre, Capitol Building, 11 Stamford Rd., 6602-9900, www. singapurathemusical.com. $65-175.
theater Scenes: Forum Theater The island’s first inflatable roving theater, GoLi, sets up beside NEX shopping mall. There are local productions like Trick or Threat! (Jul 3, 8pm), a play that tells the story of a bomb scare on the MRT train, as well as UK’s Real Voices Real Lives (Jul 4, 7pm) and an interactive theater workshop with interactive role-playing. Jul 3-10. 23 Serangoon Central, www. dramabox.org. Free.
BIOMASHUP Part of The O.P.E.N festival, this energetic performance by Cristian Duarte explores the history of dance through erratic movements and a live electronic soundtrack. Jun 19-20, 8pm. 7213, 72-13 Mohamed Sultan Rd., 6737-7213. $35.
now ART
HERITAGE Island Nation
Siri Objek & Objektif Lauded Malaysian artist Ahmad Abu Bakar’s body of works spanning pottery, photography and performances is covered in this exhibition, which explores his fascination with themes like land, identity and faith. Through Jul 5. Chan Hampe Galleries, #01-20/21 Raffles Hotel Arcade, 328 North Bridge Rd., 6338-1962, www.chanhampegalleries. com. Free.
SG PICK
arts and music showcases, French language film screenings and a special tribute to the world of The Little Prince ahead of the film’s release. Through Jun 21. Various venues. www.voilah.sg. The O.P.E.N. This pre-Singapore International Arts Festival event consists of screenings, performances and exhibitions, which include an Augmented Reality tour of the much-loved Tanjong Pagar Railway Station (see 15 Stations, p. 9), 15 international films at indie cinema The Projector and avant-garde dance performance BIOMASHUP (see Dance, page 6). The O.P.E.N Pass will get you into all events except four separately ticketed performances. Through Jul 4. Various venues, www.sifa.sg. $45 from Sistic.
networking The Wedge Asia presents Content is King Learn about communicating with your audience and engage with industry experts who will dish secrets on the digital landscape at this networking event for content marketing. Speakers include Stephanie Chai of The Luxe Nomad and Peter Bakker of King Content. Jun 25, 7pm. The Co, 75 High St., 6595-6288. $25 from Peatix.
Traditional fishing
You Must Imagine Sisyphus Happy A part of the gallery’s series of emerging talents, local artist Ashley Yeo explores the dichotomy of the human condition through moody and affecting black-and-white figurative drawings and works on collage. Through Jun 28. Fost Gallery, #01-02 Gillman Barracks, 1 Lock Rd., 6694-3080. Free.
sales & fairs SG PICK
The photographers
Photo by Zakaria Zainal
Three local photographers—Juliana Tan, Edwin Koo and Zakaria Zainal, pictured above left—set about to capture the stories of Singapore’s Southern Islands and the people who were evicted and rehoused to the main island in the 1960s. Along with their assistant Pandora Wong, the Island Nation team met and photographed dozens of people and visited islands such as St John, Lazarus, Seringat, Pulau Belakang Mati, Pulau Bukom and elsewhere. Here, Edwin Koo tells us more about the project and some of the heartbreaking stories they gathered. Tell us a bit about the project. We often forget that Singapore is not one island, but comprised of more than 60 islands at one point. Kampong spirit was there on these islands before the term was even coined. By focusing on the living history of the former islanders whom we can still speak to and interact with now, we seek to capture a narrative that is forgotten.
together to bring 76 former islanders and their families back to St John Island, Lazarus Island and Seringat Island, Madam Bedah joined us. She was in a wheelchair as she had difficulty walking long distances. But the moment she saw the familiar waters of the islands, she gestured to her daughter to take her to the sea where she swam like a fish. What was the most moving story you encountered? I think it was especially moving when we witnessed old neighbors from Pulau Seking visiting Mr Teo Yen Teck in his HDB flat during Chinese New Year. Mr Teo operated a provision shop on that island for about 20 years, and made a lot of difference to the islanders because he was very generous. When he recalls the eviction, he still breaks down and cries. So it was especially moving seeing his Malay islanders visit him decades later and thank him for being there for them.
What’s the story behind the photo that appears on the cover? Madam Bedah is a former resident of Lazarus Island. When we organized an islander get-
Island Nation is on display through Jun 28 at the Promenade at National Library Building, Level 10, 100 Victoria St. See more images at www.facebook.com/ islandnationsg. MRIGAA SETHI
In The Shadow of Trees Local filmmaker Chen-Hsi Wong’s first solo art exhibition explores various landscapes through photographs drawn from her time spent making her debut film Innocents. Jun 26-Jul 11. DECK, 120A Prinsep St., 6734-6578. Free. Chun Kwang Young: New Dreams The Korean-born artist showcases 15 new pieces as a part of his new series, Aggregation. He pieces triangular polystyrene foam packages wrapped in mulberry paper and paints them using a bold hues. Through Jul 20. Art Plural Gallery, 38 Armenian St., 6636-8360, www.artpluralgallery.com. Free. As We Never Imagined: 50 Years of Art Making This group show featuring more than 70 works created at STPI’s printmaking space focuses on paper works. Drawing on the theme of crosscollaborations, the exhibition features works by the likes of Robert Motherwell, Frank Stella and Kenneth Tyler. Through Aug 30. STPI, 41 Robertson Quay, 6336-3663. Free.
FOOD & DRINK The Reunion : A Taste of Norway Savor a delectable seven-course menu by Bacchanalia’s Ivan Brehm and Fat Duck’s alumni Chef Markus P Dybwad of Snorre Foods at this one-of-a-kind tasting. Jun 23, 7pm; Jun 24, 8pm. Bacchanalia, 23A Coleman St., 6509-1453, www.bacchanalia.asia. $155 (additional $75 for wine pairing). Wine Dinner with Schwarz Wine Company This five-course dinner is paired with Schwarz Wine Company’s highest-rated wines. There are dishes like lamb from Hutton Vale Farm and each course is paired with wines like the prized Schwarz “The Schiller” Shiraz 2010. Jun 20, 7:30pm. Merchants, 52-53 Duxton Rd., 6222-1162, www.merchantsofsingapore.com.sg. $108
HAPPENINGS
festivals
Cover Up SG Magazine covers celebrate local artists, photographers and illustrators and their remarkable depictions of Singapore. They look so good, we’ve even started hanging them on our walls.
To suggest someone we should feature or to partner with us on this initiative, email editor@asia-city.com.sg 8
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
Voilah! The annual French festival is back with traditional gastronomic offerings like food markets and tasting sessions full of wine and cheese. There are also
9MCM: The Jubilee Marketplace One of the most comprehensive pop-up concepts in town has a mix of gourmet food, coffee, fashion, homeware and affordable art. There are also over 30 merchants like Sunday Market and The General Company, and 50 percent of proceeds will be donated to a charity. Jun 20-21. APS Lifestyle Gallery, APS Building, 9 Muthuraman Chetty Rd., 6233-0593, www. apslifestyle.com. Free.
outings It’s Your Turn with Russel Wong The Oppo Concept Store is doing a series of events with celebrity photographers and this time, Russel Wong will be taking portraits of the first 50 people with the new Oppo N3. Sure, it’s pretty promotional, but it would be cool to get photographed by the socalled Richard Avedon of Asia. Jun 27, 5pm. #01-627 Suntec City Mall Tower 3, 8 Temasek Blvd., www. oppomobile.com.sg. Escape from The Conspiracy The island turns into a maze when the folks behind Real Escape Games plan obstacles and puzzles to solve as you aim to stop a conspiracy group from paralyzing Singapore’s economy on its 50th anniversary. Through Jun 28, 11am. Singapore Art Museum, 71 Bras Basah Rd., 6332-3222, www.realegame.sg. $22-150 from Peatix. Dreamworks Animation: The Exhibition Animated film fans will not want to miss out on this exhibition, which shows the creative processes behind 31 animations including Kungfu Panda, How To Train Your Dragon and Madagascar through more than 400 display works. Through Aug 23. ArtScience Museum, Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 66888826, www.marinabaysands.com. $7-12.
Download the free SG Now app www.sgnow.sg/app • Hundreds of listings, daily updates • Restaurants, bars and other openings • Save events to your calendar
now SG PICK
Jen_Makan_343x125Ad_FA_pathed.pdf
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Building, 1 Republic Blvd., 6884-6940, www. sundownmarathon.com. $28-248. Pocari Sweat Run Race through the scenic Nicoll Highway and Kallang Practice Track at this 5km and 10km running event. Jul 12, 6:30am. Kallang Practice Track, 15 Stadium Rd. $38-58 from www.pocarisweatrun.com.
NIGHTLIFE SG PICK 15 Stations This augmented reality tour of Tanjong Pagar Railway Station will take you on a journey through the defunct station via a downloadable app. Each walk lasts 30 minutes and takes you on different journeys around the station using audio guides, interviews, games and even videos of specific landmarks. Through Jul 4. Tanjong Pagar Railway Station, 30 Keppel Rd., www.sifa.sg/ theopen. Free with the O.P.E.N. Pass
classes & workshops Modern Calligraphy Workshop Get to know about the different tools and work with black calligraphy ink or gouache to write your favorite quote at the end of the session. Jun 27, 10am; Jul 4, 2pm. The Workroom, #B-05 Tan Quee Swee Building, 19 Lorong Kilat, 6466-8335, www.thelittlehappyshop. com. $120.
sports Sundown Marathon The city’s largest night race has 10km, 21.1km and 42.2km categories. There is also a food village, onsite Zumba classes and a Sundown Like a Rockstar VIP program with chauffeur services, priority queues and a post-race VIP lounge. Jul 4, 7pm. F1 Pit
Discovery presents Dimitri from Paris This superstar Parisian DJ needs no introduction with his unique brand of funk and disco inflected house music sounds. The super stylish DJ-producer will no doubt be playing favorites like “Toujours L’Amour” and newer hits like “Pretty Baby”. Jun 26, 10pm. Zouk, 17 Jiak Kim St., 6738-2988, www. zoukclub.com. $28-33.
Transfix presents Tydi Even though he burst on the electronic dance scene a few years ago, he’s had chart-topping albums like Shooting Stars, which reached No. 4 on the iTunes charts, and was crowned Australia’s No. 2 DJ for two years running. Jun 19, 10pm. Zouk, 17 Jiak Kim St., 6738-2988, www.zoukclub. com. $28-33.
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and more TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence restaurants on Chope
Booking now available on
Just book it!
2x
Chope-Dollars when you book through Chope in June
www.chope.co
FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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now NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE 4 reasons to head back to Tanglin
Crossroads @ Red Baron French DJ crew La Mamie and local music collective Kilowatt Soundsystem helm the decks at this outdoor party. There’s also craft beers, ciders and cocktails by Red Baron and food by The Travelling C.O.W’s food truck. The night also includes two travel documentary screenings of Divin’ Timor and Overcoming the Impossible, as well as tarot card readings and an arts & craft corner. Jun 20, 4pm. Red Baron, Gillman Barracks, Blk 45 Malan Rd., 6334-6734. Free. Supermoon Party 1-Altitude’s resident DJs will spin the latest in house and techno, while the atmosphere is further enlivened with fire twirlers and Brazilian drummers. Jun 27, 6pm. 1-Altitude, 61-63/F One Raffles Place, 1 Raffles Place, 6438-0410. $35 (includes one drink).
FILM
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indie screenings Industrial Soundtrack for the Urban Decay The film traces the origin of industrial music across Europe and America’s avant garde scene with nods to industry heavyweights like Sheffiled’s Dadainspired band Cabaret Voltaire, Throbbing Gristle and award-winning soundtrack composer Graema Revell of SPK. After the screening, Berlin-based duo Oake spins post-punk and dark experimental music Jun 20, 8pm. Kilo, #02-01, 66 Kampong Bugis, 6467-3987. $35-38.
SG PICK
Poltergeist In this remake of the legendary horror flick, Sam Raimi updates the classic tale of a family whose home is haunted by evil forces that hold their daughter captive, through a TV no less. Starring Sam Rockwell. Opens Jun 18.
D
FLYO
Ted 2 Following the events of the first film, newlywed couple Ted and Tami-Lynn embark on the journey to parenthood. However, in order to qualify as a parent, Ted has to prove he counts as a person. Starring Liam Neeson, Mark Wahlberg, Amanda Seyfried and Seth MacFarlane. Opens Jul 2.
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Bruno Gallery
It may be full of luxurious houses and lots of restaurants, but the little enclave has got some exciting new additions. The malls are now pretty happening For starters, 1 Tanglin Mall (163 Tanglin Rd., 6736-4922, www.tanglinmall.com.sg) is now home to cool home decor store, Moodbox (#03-18, 9627-4874, www.moodbox.com.sg). It’s a curated place that changes its theme every six to eight weeks. Everything is handpicked by the owners and ranges from personal accessories like glasses to decorative homeware like bird cages, tapestries and clocks.
Survivor Pierce Brosnan, Emma Thompson and Milla Jovovich star in an action-thriller about a foreign service officer who tries to prevent a terrorist attack in New York but is forced to go on the run after she is framed for crimes she didn’t commit. Opens Jun 18. American Heist A New Orleans mechanic (Hayden Christensen) struggles to leave his criminal past behind when his ex-con brother shows up and gets him involved in a dangerous heist. Also starring Adrien Brody and Jordana Brewster. Opens Jun 25. Dark Places Starring Charlize Theron, Chloe Grace Moretz and Nicholas Hoult, the film follows a woman who is the only surviving witness of a massacre. 25 years after the murder, she believes that the atrocities were the work of a cult and starts to investigate her past and her brother’s motives. Opens Jul 2.
International Music Day Two Charlie Chaplin classics will be screened free alongside musicians from Yong Siew Toh Conservatory of Music who will be providing the soundtrack. Afterwards, Sing’theatre reinterprets hits from musicals like Grease, Mamma Mia and Mary Poppins and will be followed by a screening of recent jazz film, Whiplash. Jun 20, 4:30pm. Alliance Francaise de Singapour, 1 Sarkies Rd., 6737-8422. $2010.
NEWS FROM SGNOW.SG
Films at the Fort is back and Rocky is on the lineup
It’s loaded with cool artworks 2 Tanglin Place (91 Tanglin Rd., 6734-6386) now has a cutting-edge gallery, Bruno Gallery (#01-03, 6733-0283, www.brunoartgroup.com). It stocks paintings and sculptures made using silkscreen lithography and giclee techniques by prominent Israeli artists. And just across the road, 20,000 sq. ft. art gallery and café MAD Museum of Art & Design (#01/02-01 10 Tanglin Rd., 6734-5688, www. madmuseumsingapore.com), where a diverse range of sculptures, design collectibles and paintings can be found, alongside yummy Japanese-inspired dishes. Botanic Gardens is a craft beer haven Down the road is the lush Botanic Gardens and while we admit this craft beer bar and burger restaurant is not in the gardens per se, it’s located on 3 Evans Road, next to the tiny but delicious brunch place Assembly (26 Evans Rd., 6735-5647, www.assembly.sg). Wildfire Kitchen + Bar (26 Evans Rd., 6734-2080, www.wildfire.com.sg) dishes out quick but juicy plates of burgers loaded with guacamole, beer caramelized onions and oozing with cheese. The no-frills industrial chic place has tons of craft beers from breweries like Italy’s Birra del Borgo, Deschutes and Anderson Valley for $9 (at least until the end of June). Dempsey has got lots going on First off, Ryan Clift and the folks of Edible Gardens are opening a farm-to-table restaurant (minus the animals) on Minden Road. It’ll be serving lots of fresh pastas and grilled dishes using herbs from the expansive garden. Down the road, 4 The White Rabbit (39C Harding Rd., 9721-0536, www. thewhiterabbit.com.sg) is set to open their outdoor bar and gin garden, The Rabbit Hole, by June. It will feature 16 different gin & tonic creations using different botanicals and garnishes. The newly-expanded Loewen Cluster also has new additions, namely art gallery 5 Billkey Art (75A Loewen Rd., www.billkeyart.sg), which is set to open by July. The gallery has an eclectic collection of paintings and mixed-media art with a current focus on abstract floral-inspired pieces. Next door is a full-service beauty emporium, 6 Trimmings & Spa (75E Loewen Rd., 6471-1922, www.trimmings.com. sg). It has services ranging from a hair salon, a full spa offering facials and massages, as well as a nail parlor. Letitia Tandean
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
Films at the Fort
Fort Canning has played host to a ton of outdoor events recently and this time, it’s outdoor film screening Films at the Fort (www.filmsatthefort.com) running from Aug 14-23. There are 10 films screening over 10 days and the line-up is jam-packed with blockbusters. There are screenings of recently acclaimed movies like The Imitation Game (Aug 18) where Benedict Cumberbatch plays mathematical genius Alan Turing who attempts to break the Enigma code in WWII, as well as high rolling, hedonistic Wall Street (Aug 16), a film about 1980s high risk-high gain stockbroking in New York City. There will also be a screening of The Shawshank Redemption (Aug 22), the Morgan Freeman/Tim Robbins classic. If blockbusters aren’t your thing, the line-up also includes documentaries like The Two Escobars (Aug 19), an intertwining story about Colombia’s civil war, the drug kingpin Pablo Escobar and Colombia’s biggest soccer star, Andres Escobar; and the Singapore premier of Walking Under Water (Aug 17), a film that follows the nomadic seafaring Bajao people of Mabul Island located off the coast of Sabah. But secretly, we all just want to watch Rocky (Aug 23), Sylvester Stallone’s huge boxing hit. Website of the Year MPAS 2015 Tickets go for $27.80 and you can get also get inflatable backrests for $11, as well as food and wine from The Providore booth. S I N G A P O R E ’ S H OTT E ST L I F E ST Y L E N E W S
city scape DIGITAL
Get Started 7 reasons why there’s never been a better time for your Singapore start-up. By Mrigaa Sethi The Workhouse
The Working Capitol
Echelon Singapore
W
All About Apps
e’ve known for a while that Singapore is a great place for entrepreneurs and startups. But this year, thanks to a combination of government efforts, moves by venture capitalists and some exciting success stories, the start-up vibe has never been more exciting. So, if you’re thinking of leaving it all to pursue your start-up dreams, here are seven pieces of encouraging news.
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You’ll have more government resources
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99.CO Imagine apartment hunting on a site that does properly vetted, useful listings, with a slick Airbnb-esque interface.
Investors want to fund you
Accelerators aside, venture capitalists are also flocking to Singapore. “Local The year started with the expansion of Singapore firms like Monk’s Hill, Silicon Island Block 71, the start-up known more and GGV are working alongside international formally as JTC Launchpad @ one heavyweights like Gree, Rakuten and north. Now the government has Sequoia,” says Singapore-based industry erected a Block 73 and a Block 79, insider (and founder of www.thelist. with more start-ups, incubators sg) Kristine Lauria. “We’re seeing more and research organizations. By and larger investments.” Back in February, 2016, there will be even more blocks Kristine Lauria local property listing start-up 99.co got a dedicated to entrepreneurship. US$2 million boost from Eduardo Saverin and Sequoia Capital. Then, earlier in June, And many like-minded folks PropertyGuru announced that it had raised $135 million. Good news all around. There’s been a special explosion of coworking spaces this year, with the arrival of The Working Capitol on Keong Saik, The There are many Refinery in Jalan Besar and The Workhouse success stories in Little India. Why is that good? Cheaper rents Lauria also reminds us that local aside, lonesome entrepreneurs need friends. Gene entrepreneurs with more than one start-ups Yap, for example, founder of local fitness class under their belt are not unusual. 99.co founder subscription services Passport Darius Cheung was also behind mobile security Asia, operated out of the HUB company TenCube, which he sold to McAfee. at Orchard. “Because it’s a “Danny Tan, who ran and closed down Found start-up environment, people in 2013, is now running one of my favorite are more accommodating. sites, Hipvan,” she says. In the street, people tend to avoid you, even if you have a Gene Yap goodie bag.” You’ll have maverick
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7 local startups to watch and support this year
www.99.co
99.co’s Darius Cheung with Eduardo Saverin
www.helpling.com.sg
HIPVAN Furniture, home decor and lifestyle goodies at huge discounts and with free delivery for orders over $75.
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Foreign accelerators are coming to help
A few weeks ago, Netherlandsbased startup support network Rockstart (www.rockstart.com) announced its arrival to Singapore. Applications for its 150-day program—which will provide mentorship, financial support and workspace—open in September. Australian accelerator Muru-D (www.muru-d.com) and Danish accelerator Startupbootcamp (www.startupbootcamp.org) also arrived earlier this year. Their application periods are over for the moment, but you can still go to their networking events.
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mentors
HELPLING Book a registered cleaner (or cleaners) to come sort out your house. Pay online.
www.hipvan.com
WalkaboutSG
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There are world-class opportunities to network
For starters, Echelon Singapore is happening Jun 23-24 (Singapore Expo Hall 3A, 1 Expo Dr., www.e27.co. $224-325). But if that’s too advanced or the tickets are too pricey, try WalkaboutSG (www.walkabout.sg) on Jun 26, where dozens of local tech companies run free open houses. You can visit BASH, the new community startup space at the expanded Blk 71, and the offices of places like Google, Facebook, Twitter, along with local startups such as EasyVan, 99.co and Gone Adventurin’. The clincher? The afterparty is on the floor of the Singapore Stock Exchange.
Government support, international incubators and events aside, Singapore also has a great network of entrepreneurs lending each other a hand. According to Plern Tee Suraphongchai, director at Ardent Capital, which specializes in e-commerce startups in the region, this makes Singapore a unique ecosystem in the region. “Every entrepreneur needs guidance and access to resources in order to be able to succeed,” she says. “The willingness of the community to give back Plern Tee to and reinvest in the Singapore startup Suraphongchai scene is what makes Singapore such a great place for entrepreneurs.”
REDMART This online grocery store delivers fresh foods, frozen foods and even alcohol to your door. www.redmart.com PASSPORT ASIA Access to over 20,000 fitness class slots, without a gym membership. www.mypassport.asia
RYDE Like Uber, except for carpooling. Split a ride and make a new friend. www.rydesharing.sg
SPACESHIP Got a lot of junk you don’t have the heart to part with? Have these guys store it for you. www.spaceship.com.sg
FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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Hotel Kesenda, Jakarta
Back to Indonesia The hipster’s guide on where to eat, drink and play in Bali, Jakarta and Yogyakarta
Tanah Lot, Bali
T
Borobudur Temple, Yogyakarta
here’s more to our southern neighbor than beaches and villas. Indonesia’s cities are full of hip, thoughtfully curated experiences, from accommodation to food to nightlife. Book yourself on a trip and see them with all-new eyes. Don’t forget your camera!
PRE AND EASY 4 perks when you pre-book with AirAsia MORE MEAL CHOICES. When you pre-book your meal online, not only do you get 20% off, you also get more options, like the exotic Nasi Padang Uda Ratman, which is only available if you order ahead. Flights to Indonesia on AirAsia serves exclusively signature Indonesian dishes not found elsewhere. Go ahead and whet your appetite. CHECK IN BAGGAGE. It’s a no-brainer. You save up to 54% when you pre-book your baggage online! What’s more, you have the option to pack anything from 20k-40kg. PRIORITY BOARDING WITH HOT SEATS. When you pick a seat, you get a head start with priority boarding! Not only that, having hot seats also means extra legroom for additional comfort.
Nasi Padang Uda Ratman
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FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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island
The latest openings and hottest trends in Singapore
TECH
Game of Drones
They’ve been all over the news this month—which means you should finally get one. Here are our top picks. By Kanin Srimaneekulroj DJI Phantom 2 Vision
SG PICK
Flight Time: 20-25 minutes Control Method: Proprietary controller and smartphone Price: $1,510.74 Available at: Singapore Hobby Supplies, #B1-23 Fook Hai Building, 150 South Bridge Rd., 6532-1993, www.singahobby.com If you’re looking for a drone with real photography capabilities, this is the one. Sporting a 360-degree, tilt-able, 14-megapixel camera, helped by a three-axis camera stabilization mechanism, the drone can take crystal clear pictures mid-flight. It can even record 1080p, HD videos at both 30 and 60 frames-per-second. The range isn’t bad, either, extending to 700 meters with the controller. The live video-feed can only be transmitted 300 meters, though.
Parrot A.R. Drone 2.0 Flight Time: 18 minutes/battery (two included) Control Method: Smartphone app (about 50-meter range) Price: $519 Available at: store.apple.com/sg
How To 4 tips to keep your drone inside the law
As far as mid-range drones go, Parrot’s offerings are a great place to start. The front-mounted camera relays live footage to the smartphone app, allowing you to fly the drone in first-person view. The camera also supports video capture at a decent resolution of 720p in 30fps. The single biggest issue with this model is the Wi-Fi-only connectivity––no cellular networks–– which limits the drone’s usability in outdoor areas.
1. Get a permit. A permit from the Civil Aviation Authority of Singapore (CAAS) is required if you plan to use your drone for photography, commercial purposes, surveying, aerial advertising and dropping items or substances. 2. Weigh your bird. Recreational drone enthusiasts rejoice—unless your drone weighs more than 7kg, you don’t have to apply for one.
Walkera W100
Drone V666 Flight Time: 10 minutes Control Method: Radio-controlled Price: $187.05 Available at: www.gearbest.com The drone’s camera can’t snap photos, though it does display and record live-view video through the controller-mounted LCD screen. The control distance isn’t anything special, but sits at a decent 150 meters. The drone is very easy to keep in the air thanks to its six gyro sensors, which allow it to do neat tricks like the classic barrel roll.
FITNESS
With the built-in accelerometer and three axis gyros helping with flight stabilization, this drone is perfect for newcomers who would like a cheap product for practice before moving on to more robust and costly drones. The camera is horrible, though, constantly lagging at outrageously low framerates. This makes the drone very difficult to fly using live-view.
Parrot Rolling Spider Flight Time: 8 minutes Control Method: Smartphone (Bluetooth) Price: $139 Available at: Newstead Technologies, #03-01 Funan Digitalife Mall, 109 North Bridge Rd., 6332-5376, www.newstead. com.sg More of a toy than the other drones, this cute little machine has a top speed of almost 20km/h, making it ideal for racing but not much else, as the drone has a maximum range of 20 meters. The 300k pixel camera can only realistically be used for live-viewing, as captured photos will be incredibly small in resolution.
3. Location, location. You’ll need approval from the CAAS to fly your drone at locations or events which are listed as restricted, like the airport or the SEA Games. 4. Mind your luggage. Never carry hazardous chemicals and weapons on a drone or you could be fined up to $100,000 and jailed up to five years. Apply online at www.caas. gov.sg. CHELSIA TAN
3 awesome apps that customize your running playlist SPOTIFY In addition to matching tunes to your heart rate, Spotify Running has enlisted DJs like Tiesto to do original compositions. It’s also pioneered a new file type that speeds up or slows down a song based on your pace. You’ll need stable 4G, of course. Paid version of the app is $9.99 a month. Available on iOS and Android.
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Flight Time: 7 minutes Control Method: Smartphone (iOS only) Price: $150 Available at: Rotor Hobby Enterprises, #02-37 Kitchener Complex, 809 French Rd., 62963686/6341-7296, www.shop.rotor. com.sg
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
ROCK MY RUN This app lets you download (so, forward planning required) mixes across hip hop, house, rock and pop. It also customizes the length of mixes and beats per minute. There’s a free version and a paid version with longer mixes (up to four hours long) for $5.98 a month. Available on iOS and will be available on Android soon.
TEMPO RUN This app categorizes your entire music library into tempo levels, from one to ten with one being a walk and 10 being a sprint. There’s also a function that lets you tap out a tempo for full control of the how fast you want the song to be. This app costs $2.58 and is only available on iOS.
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eats
The inside scoop on Singapore’s drink and dining scene
NEW BAR Boozy Birthday Suit ITALIAN La Dolce Vita Traditional Italian food gets updated with swanky New York sensibilities at Osteria Art (55 Market St., 6877-6933,www.osteriaart. com), complete with a cherry wood bar, copper lamps, red leather chairs and ornate tilework. It elevates homey Italian classics with starters like a heartwarming bollito misto soup ($23), toothsome Romaine lettuce ($23) topped with bottarga and garlic, as well as comforting antipasti like the porcini flan (pictured, $22). Cocktails here are another highlight: they start at $12 and are named after Ferrari models (sweet). There’s also a 500-strong wine list, too.
Now that The Naked Finn has moved on to bigger premises in Gillman Barracks, the old space hasn’t been left to languish. Nekkid (41 Malan Rd., 6694-0807, www. facebook.com/nekkidbar) is a neighborhood cocktail joint that also serves tapas. Like its predecessor, the space serves slushie-like sorbet cocktails like the signature -12 degree cocktail ($18-23), and a tight list of small plates like goreng pisang ($5) and their take on orh jien ($6), squid innards fried in olive oil.
DESSERT Tres Jolie
French tearoom and patisserie Angelina (#01-82 Capitol Piazza, 15 Stamford Rd., 6384-0481, www.angelina-paris. fr) is one opulent joint: Belle Epoque decor full of rosettes and medallions, plus lots of chandeliers. Surprisingly, the signatures here aren’t the teas, but desserts and drinks like the lush hot chocolate “L’Africain” ($12), made from four types of African cocoa beans and unsweetened whipped cream. Also dig into desserts like Le Mont-Blanc ($13.50), a dome-like structure made of sweet chestnut, meringue and topped with artisanal whipped cream.
OPEN DOOR Meatliquor The buzz: A popular London burger and cocktail joint opens its doors in the hip Duxton Road, taking over the space formerly occupied by Life is Beautiful.
sambal fries ($10) slathered in a house sauce and topped with fried egg and crispy shallots; buffalo wings ($15); and a crispy soft shell crab ($14) with Cajun spices.
The vibe: The space is now grungy-cool: technicolored murals, neon signs and heavy wooden tables scrawled with fauxpoetic quotes, all to a soundtrack of old school hip hop and electro funk.
The drinks: The tropical-themed libations pack an alcoholic kick. The cocktail list comprises Singapore exclusives and London hits like the Duxton Fizz ($25) with vodka, pear and strawberry, and the super potent House Grog Slushy ($24), a mix of rums, spirits and fruits.
The food: It’s great, messy drunk food, with most burgers under $20. Get the buffalo chicken cheeseburger ($19) stuffed with a deep-fried chicken fillet, cheese and red onions, or our fave, the Dead Hippie ($22), their take on a Big Mac. Sides include
Why you’ll be back: Cheap burgers, great drinks, amazing atmosphere that’s open until late night. Enough said.
99 Duxton Rd., 6221-5343, www.meatliquor.com/singapore. Open Tue-Fri 5pm2am; Sat 5pm-3am. LETITIA TANDEAN
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
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Why Sims is Singapore’s next hot ‘hood
Send them this nifty guide! From a primer on ordering kopi to the best drinking and dining spots in the CBD, we show you how to navigate the city like a pro.
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eats DRINK
HAWKER
3 places for new takes on the classic G&T
The Stars of Seah Im Usually full of taxi uncles, bus drivers and tourists on their way to Sentosa, this hawker center has some real gems. Here are our top 7. By Letitia Tandean
Cheng Ji Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee
THE RABBIT HOLE Dempsey’s pretty restaurant, The White Rabbit, has just unveiled the new concept for its alfresco bar. It now boasts a herb garden for the 18 different types of gin and tonics available. Each gin is paired with garnishes that complement the gin’s botanicals, like the G Vine Floraison, which gets an orange basket of aromatic dried chamomile flowers ($16). 39C Harding Rd., 9721-0536, www.thewhiterabbit.com.sg
Aspirasi Food Stall
Cai Ji Boneless Duck Rice
Fried Kuay Teow Mee
W
hile it may be right next to a busy bus interchange, Seah Im Food Centre (2 Seah Im Rd.) has some great options, perfect for after a big run at Mount Faber Park or a shopathon at Vivocity. Here are the unmissable stalls.
Cai Ji Boneless Duck Rice (#01-58)
Ichiban Seafood Sliced Fish Soup (#01-18)
We love the toothsome yam rice here, cooked in a fragrant broth until brown, and served with heaps of sliced duck and fragrant brown sauce ($2.80). If you’re not feeling that hungry, the silky duck porridge ($2.50) is equally good.
The fish here is sliced thick and is tender but firm. Each bowl is a pretty generous portion for what you pay ($4) and uses seabass (not the cheap stuff). While the broth is light and delicate, it’s still flavorful. Plus, the ginger-garlic condiment seals the deal.
Cheng Ji Fried Hokkien Prawn Mee (#01-59)
Thaksin Beef Noodle (#01-44)
The fried prawn mee ($2.50) is sloppy and messy but the generous amounts of prawns and cuttlefish on top of the egg and rice noodle mix is always a good sign. The dish is not too wet or too dry, so it coats the noodles in an even slick of sauce. Don’t skimp on the sambal and lime though, a dollop of these will give you the perfect balance of flavors.
This Thai stall with a slightly funky name uses slippery kway teow noodles topped with generous chunks of beef and tripe in a super beefy broth, not unlike pho. You can also get Thai fried rice ($3.50) and Thai fried kway teow ($3).
Fried Kuay Teow Mee (#01-26)
The yong tau fu is perfect comfort food for rainy days and the one here comes with a fiery laksa version ($3). Although you can’t pick and choose your ingredients, a standard bowl consists of fishballs, fried crispy tofu and fish cakes. You can also choose the type of noodles.
Not the most original of names, but who cares. While the stall’s main focus is fried kway teow ($2.50) with cockles and Chinese sausage, their carrot cake ($2.50, both white and black) is surprisingly good. It comes with proper wok hei with soft morsels of radish cake, scrambled eggs and scallions.
Aspirasi Food Stall (#01-45)
Tian Ji Niang Dou Fu (#01-52)
Seah Im Food Centre is located on the corner of Seah Im and Telok Blangah Roads. It’s open daily, 6am-11pm, though timings for individual stalls vary.
One of the many halal stalls at Seah Im, this is the place to satisfy chicken cravings. Although they have dishes like lemon chicken, the star of the menu is their ayam penyet ($5). The generous portion comes heaped with rice, a huge chicken thigh and sambal. You can even help yourself to unlimited fried flour crumbs, arguably the best part.
Foodie gossip For weekly updates on new restaurants, bars and events on The Dish. Sign up at sgnow.sg/newsletters
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
ANTIDOTE This well-loved hotel bar recently redid its cocktail menu, though it still specializes in homemade tonics infused with all sorts of ingredients. Here, each G&T has a number: #2 ($23) is refreshing with a slight wash of bitter from gentian root but is rounded off with lemongrass, ginger and fresh parsley. Meanwhile #5 ($23) takes on an earthy note with grapefruit peel and rosemary. L/F Fairmont Singapore, 80 Bras Basah Rd., 6431-5315, www. antidotebar.com
CLUB 39 The new Italian small plates restaurant and bar serves goblets of G&Ts. On the menu are creations like Tanq Ten Tonic ($25) with your choice of gin and East Imperial tonic, strained into the glass using a spiral barspoon, which allows the ingredients to properly mix without shaking or stirring. 39 Duxton Hill, 6221-4235, www.theclub39.com. LETITIA TANDEAN
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escapes
Holidays, hotels and insider travel news
DESTINATION GUIDE
Sweet Valley High Bumthang, in central Bhutan, encapsulates all that’s great about the Himalayan mountain kingdom. By Ric Stockfis
Bumthang Valley
Nomad Festival
Bumthang Brewery
Ura
T
he four valleys that make up the once independent kingdom of Bumthang aren’t exactly easy to get to. The main town of Jakar is a 12-hour drive from the capital, Thimpu, along bumpy, twisting mountain roads (locals say there’s a turn every nine seconds) that cross several passes more than 3,000m in elevation. Jakar itself sits at a breezy 2,580m. But make it out this far and you’re rewarded with breathtaking scenery, endless hiking trails, millennia-old temples, fascinating festivals and even Bhutan’s best beer. Here are four highlights.
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Awesome hiking
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Fab festivals
There are some serious treks around Bumthang, with the six-day Rodang La and eight-day Duer Hot Springs treks both starting in Jakar. There’s also the more straightforward Owl Trek (named for all the hooting at night) which takes just three days. Hiking up and down the main valley is a great way to acclimatize, and gives you a chance to take in Bumthang’s religious highlights, which include the Pelseling Goemba (lotus tree monastery) perched high above the treeline; the Jampey Lhakhang, built as far back as 659; and the Kurjey Lhakhang, a huge temple complex built into a rockface. We found temple fatigue kicking in after three or four stops, but taken alone, any one of these is an incredible experience.
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Feeling like an extra on the set of Game of Thrones
Of Bumthang’s four valleys (Chhume, Chokor, Tang and Ura) most of the action is in Chokor, but Ura in particular is worth a detour. (Look out for views of Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s highest unclimbed peak, on the journey over there.) The highest of the valleys, it offers some spectacular hiking, as well as an easy, hour-long descent through the forests to the village of Ura itself, a tiny settlement of traditional wooden farmhouses and smoking chimneys. If visiting Bhutan feels like stepping into Westeros, nowhere is that feeling more intense than in Ura. The village also plays host to its own annual festival—the lively, local liquorfuelled Ura Yakchoe.
Colorful religious festivals known as tshechu— fabulous, four-day affairs that attract everyone from the surrounding region—are an important part of local life and you should try and catch at least one (check www.visitbhutanyear.com for what’s on where and when). But there are also a host of lower profile festivals in every corner of the country. We were in Bumthang in February and spent a fun day watching archery and strongman contests and trying on traditional headgear at the annual Nomad Festival, which draws herdsmen and hill tribes down from the Himalayas.
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015
The valleys of Bumthang look remarkably like Switzerland, and in fact the Swiss and Bhutanese have been actively cooperating for more than 40 years, with the Swiss introducing modern farming machinery and techniques to the previously closed-off country. The most visible and fun legacy is the Swiss Farm, where cheese-making and beer brewing were first introduced to the valley. The Red Panda weissbeer, produced since 2006 by the Bumthang Brewery (+975 363-1197) in a tiny, unassuming facility (tours should be booked ahead of time and cost $6/person), is the country’s best brew, and you can pick up honey, cheese and jam for a perfect picnic from the neighboring cheese factory. It’s a five minute drive out of Jakar up the eastern side of the valley.
A Detour to Phobjika
Amankora Gangtey
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4
Kicking back with a craft beer
A turn off on the road between Punakha and Bumthang winds down to the beautiful Phobjika valley, and makes for a very worthwhile detour for a night or two. This huge, glacially-carved landscape is an important wildlife reserve and particularly popular with people hoping to see the extremely rare blacknecked cranes, but it’s also a great place for some easy, flat hiking, with incredible views. We stayed at the Amankora Gangtey (www.amanresorts. com), which looks directly down the valley at the area’s main religious site, the 17th-century Gangtey Goemba. If you decide to stretch for one night at Aman while you’re in Bhutan, make it this one.
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Essentials
Amankora Bumthang
WHERE TO STAY Aman Resorts (www.amanresorts.com) have five small lodges across Bhutan. Amankora Bumthang (from $1,270 plus 20% local charges/night, all-inclusive) sits just back from the river and houses both a functioning monastery and a crumbling royal palace within its grounds. The 16 rooms all face the huge mountains on the other side of the valley, and feature traditional wood-fired bukhari heaters. They offer a host of daily activities from farmhouse dinners to birdwatching and local astrology readings, though we were more interested in the in-house spa after a day of hiking in the hills. Aside from the odd night of luxury, all our accommodation was included as part of our package with Druk Asia (see right) and in Bumthang we also spent a few happy nights at the three-star, family-run Rinchenling Lodge (+975 363 1147, www.rinchenling.com).
ESCAPE ROUTES
Amankora Bumthang
WHEN TO GO March through May and September through November are neither too cold, nor too wet. GETTING THERE Fly from Singapore to Paro with Drukair (www.drukair.com.sg) for around $1,250 return. Flights—with layovers in Kolkata— depart Singapore on Thursdays and Saturdays, returning on Wednesdays and Saturdays. VISA AND GETTING AROUND A visa is required for all visitors to Bhutan (other than Indian, Bangladeshi and Maldivian nationals), and can only be obtained through authorized travel agencies like Druk Asia (6338-9909, www.drukasia. com). They can also coordinate your trip, with a 10-day itinerary incorporating Paro, Thimpu, and the Punakha, Phobjika and Bumthang valleys starting from $2,510 in Summer/ Winter and $3,120 for Spring/Fall, including all tourist royalties, your driver and guide, daily meals and three-star accommodation.
GRAND OPENING Le Meridien Thimpu
U Koh Madsum
ilLido Bali
THAILAND
VIETNAM
Flight of Fancy
Heading Eastin
Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com. sg) is turning five and using the occasion to up its in-flight meal game by treating you to a dish dreamed up by formidable husband-and-wife duo, Dylan and Bo of Bo.Lan, which regularly features on San Pellegrino’s Asia’s 50 Best list. This special service is available on selected flights from Singapore to Bangkok from now until Aug 15.
Island Life
Overview: Open since December 2014, this is Bhutan’s first international-standard business hotel. Previously, visitors to the capital had to choose between five-star luxury at the likes of Taj Tashi or Aman and more middle-of-the-road options. When we visited, the suites were yet to open and the pool was still under construction, but otherwise the Starwood sheen was already on full show: expect this centrally-located, 78-room spot to corner a big chunk of the market in the coming months. Another Le Meridien opened in Paro in May 2015. Design: Bhutanese architecture is one of the country’s most striking features and it’s nice to see that, unlike some of the modern concrete blocks now dotted around the capital, Le Meridien takes its cues from tradition. It’s a six-story building
that incorporates colors, materials and inspiration from the country’s temples and dzongs, with heavy wooden doors and furnishings in the lobby and Buddhist elements on the walls of the rooms. Both of the in-house restaurants feature a stonepaved courtyard for alfresco dining. Rave: Huge mountain views from pretty much every window. And after a week of so-so food and—in winter at least—cold bathrooms elsewhere in the country, the modern rooms and continental breakfast here will come as very welcome relief. Their partnership with Illy means a break from the ubiquitous instant coffee, too. Rant: Why does Le Meridien persist in charging for WiFi? Price: From $270 per night.
Thai Airways
If you like beach holidays, consider the new 37-villa U Koh Madsum (118 Moo 2, Koh Madsum, +66 0 7795-3099 www. ukohmadsumsamui.com) that will be opening on its own private island come Jul 1. Located just 10 minutes from Koh Samui, you’ll be close enough to all the action but far enough so you won’t have to share the unspoiled beaches with the rowdy party crowd. Opening rates start at THB4,299 ($171) for two people per night in their Tented Villas. Valid until Dec 31. KOREA
Party Town
Korea played host to Miami’s popular mega EDM shindig Ultra Music Festival and is showing no signs of slowing down. Indie music festival, Rainbow Festival (www.rainbowfestival.co.kr), is taking place from Jun 21-22 and will feature popular Korean acts like Junggigo, and Kyuhyun from Super Junior. Tickets start at 44,000 Won ($54). For EDM fans, there’s 5Tardium (www.5tardium.com) on Jul 4 that features five stages complete with fireworks display and a giant LED puppet. Tickets start at 66,000 Won ($81).
A spiffy new hotel recently opened in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. The 268-room Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon (253 Nguyen Van Troi St., +84 8 38449222, www.eastinhotelsresidences. com) is a mere 10-minute drive from the Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 from the city center and it boasts clean, white interiors. For food, pick from five restaurants including Lotus Court Chinese restaurant and Iki Japanese Restaurant and there’s also a swimming pool and gym. Introductory rates start at US$90 ($123) and are valid until Jun 30. INDONESIA
Foodie Calendar
There’s plenty happening on the food front in Bali to get excited about. Sheraton Kuta Bali’s (Jalan Pantai Kuta, +62 36 1846-5555, www. sheraton.com/balikuta) Italian trattoria Bene is offering a slew of food-centric events every day of the week until Jun 30. So on Sundays, the Bene team will create dishes using groceries you bought from the Feast Market Brunch. And one of Singapore’s hottest Italian restaurants has set up shop in Seminyak with ilLido Bali (Jalan Raya Kerobokan No 38, +62 3 6173-1175) that features a chic wooden interior and a large alfresco dining area.
Chorten Lam, +975 2 337788, lemeridien.com. RIC STOCKFIS
FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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last word
Cai Yinzhou We first learned of Yinzhou (far left) when we saw his initiative, Backalley Barbers—folks who give free haircuts to migrant workers—on Facebook. When we met him, we were blown away by the 25 year-old’s drive and his passion for Geylang, where he grew up. Here he tells Mrigaa Sethi about the changes he sees in his neighborhood and his recent trip to Nepal. I’m part of the Singapore Nepal Relief Community. We’ve been collecting food in Singapore, but a lot of it is canned sardines. Kathmandu is land-locked. They don’t know how to eat that kind of stuff. Singaporeans donate a lot of irky stuff, like expired medicine and lingerie. We’re trying to discourage that, but people still do it due to insensitivity or ignorance. I quit my job and went to Australia for three months to work as a shed builder. I wanted to experience what it was like to be a migrant worker. A lot of events are organized for migrant workers, but they would rather be resting or chilling with their friends. So I went there to feel what it was like. When I came back, I concluded that I would organize events with migrant workers— collaborations that would involve locals. With interactions, you break down social barriers. Being a migrant worker was tough work. It was 45 degrees. The hours were long—wake up early, head to work site, get home flat tired. But in Australia, it’s different. We are called tradies, and people respect you. When I wore a tradie uniform, the shop I went to for lunch would be happy to give me an extra bottled water. People would nod. In Singapore, people look away. There are lots of migrant workers in Geylang, and there’s a group that I used to play badminton with. I met them last year. I found out each of their life stories, their love stories, how many kids they have, all through sessions of badminton. There was one time the police came because some neighbors complained, even though it was only 9pm. Then I went to Australia. When I came back, I found out the police had come again.
I felt there was something innately wrong with society. If a bunch of children were playing in a back alley, people wouldn’t call the police on them. I wanted to do something for the guys I played badminton with, to show we weren’t all a bad sort. It wasn’t practical to give money or food for the sake of giving and to feel like you’re “helping them”. I wanted to do something personal, like the equivalent of writing a card. I chose to try and cut hair. There was a guy we played with. He would have to sweep the hair from his eyes. I would tell him, “Go and cut your hair, lah.” And he’d say, “No, save money. Next month.” I thought, “That’s what he said last month.”
We have an increasing trend in Geylang of new shoebox apartments springing up, and the expats who live there. Their companies rent the place—it’s close to the city, it’s 24 hours, it’s prime location and it’s relatively cheaper. You see them sometimes in the coffee shops, reading their Kindles or reading the news on their iPads. That’s an interesting new development in Geylang. Another weird trend after the alcohol restrictions is coffee shops that sell zero percent beer. And you’ll see sad uncles who sit there pouring and drinking. They eventually move on.
I quit and went to Australia for three months to work as a shed builder
I tried cutting my own hair for six months before I actually decided to attempt cutting their hair. That’s when the first Backalley Barbers was born, last Deepavali. After that I roped in my cousin, who was in the army at that point of time, and his mom cuts his hair for him, and he cuts a bit himself. Have you been to a migrant worker dormitory? You should—it’s an eye opener. I’ve lived in Geylang all my life. I’ve seen prostitutes, migrant workers, gangsters— they were all part of the community.
The guy sitting opposite you in a coffee shop could be a pimp on the lookout for police cars. The guy walking past you could be looking for a prostitute—you can tell by his eye contact. I was a kid, but I understood. I graduated last year with a degree in events and tourism from Murdoch University. This program has a particular emphasis on social science, how tourism has evolved towards sustainability. I want to think of long-term strategies for Nepal and Geylang.
There’s a 70 year-old business that took an 80 percent hit because her main income was from selling alcohol and cigarettes. She’s contemplating closing because she’s a bit old and her kids probably wouldn’t want to take over. It’s a rustic provision shop with old-fashioned tins, old shelves and a pulley system with the money inside. Development is inevitable, but I feel that not enough is done to preserve the spirit of this place— like how Tiong Bahru was documented. I can’t see the same thing happening for Geylang, because it’s known for the sleaze. It’s also changing so fast, I’m afraid it will be lost before it’s remembered. My parents have been pretty non-interruptive of what I’ve been doing—not exactly supportive, but they’re not against it. I’m exploring a sustainable business organizing events: to provide opportunities for companies interested in corporate social responsibility for the community. This would include projects with marginalized people, whether it’s the elderly, migrant workers or the poor.
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 19, 2015