w w w. s g n o w. s g | 2 0 1 5 M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
Can we breathe again?
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #687 | OCTOBER 2, 2015 since 1995
CELEBRATING 20 YEARS
what’s on what’s new what matters
Richard WJ Koh’s striking aerial images of Singapore, many taken from helicopters, are on display at URA Centre until Oct 31. Turn to PHOTOGRAPHY , page 8, for an interview NEIGHBORHOOD
FOOD
TRAVEL
INTERVIEW
Back to Kampong Glam
Upscale Hawker Centers
Where to Go Skiing
A Podcast About Singapore
page 3 12 of the most hilarious tweets about #SGHaze
14 cityscape
Kampong Spirit 6 outings
8 photography
Archifest
Singapore From the Air
10 events
16 new places
A Clockwork Orange
5 Stores to Check Out
1. I think the #SGHaze has gone beyond unhealthy levels, there’s no pt giving numbers. The gauge should be “wah liao”, “siao liao” or “die”— Sanif Olek (@sanifoo) 2. Top 2 trends on @TwitterSG ... 1) #sghaze 2) #iphone6s ... Don’t say we don’t have priorities in Singapore. —Neil Humphreys (@NeilHumphreys) 3. 200 PSI is the new 400 PSI. —mrbrown (@mrbrown) 4. Will the real PSI reading please stand up, please stand up? —MuttonsInTheMorning (@muttons) 5. Twitter : haze Facebook : haze TV : haze Open window : more haze —Dion (@Dionlyjj)
18 new eatery
19 dining
Healthy Take-Outs
Cheap Eats
7. Singaporeans surveyed feel sufficiently Cooled Off after not having seen the sun the entire day. —Fake Straits Times (@FakeSTcom)
20 travel
22 interview
Skiing Destinations
What Does it Mean to be Singaporean?
8. Atop the Singapore Flyer, he said to her, “I will love you as far as the eye can see.” — Edvarcl Heng (@edvarcl) 9. Instagram has just added a new filter for Singapore: “Haze” —Louis (@ParisSingapore)
Who's in charge? Publisher & General Manager Ric Stockfis countrymanager@asia-city.com.sg
Content Sales & Custom Media Content Director Clara Lim customcontent@asia-city.com.sg
Editorial Managing Editor Mrigaa Sethi editor@asia-city.com.sg
Advertising Director, Business Development Intan Agustina advertising@asia-city.com.sg
Features Editor Chelsia Tan Dining Editor Letitia Tandean Digital News Reporter Xie Shi Min Design Associate Art Director Carmen Louise Ho Senior Designer Fishy Toh Designer Celeste Chooi
Where to find us! Bangkok Asia City Publishing (Thailand) Ltd 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02‑624‑9696 Fax: 02‑237‑5656 bkmagazine@asia‑city.co.th Shanghai shonline@asia‑city.com.cn
Senior Manager, Media & Marketing Shernan Plameras Executive, Media & Marketing Lee Wee Keong Marketing Marketing Manager Silver Adrienna Ng marketing@asia-city.com.sg
Marketing & Admin Assistant Geraldine Tan Finance finance@asia-city.com.sg Group Directors Chief Executive Officer Gretchen Worth gworth@asia‑city.co.th Group Digital Director Greg Duncan gduncan@asia‑city.com.sg On the cover Photograph by Richard WJ Koh
10. Is your Dad an Indonesian farmer? Cause you’re burning hot like he just set you up on fire! —Bhas Karan (@BhasProject) 11. My love for you is like the #SGHaze... I don’t know where it comes from, but it affects me. —Jizelle Dela Rosa (@superjizu) 12. How to make smoked salmon in SG: place a slice of salmon outside your window. Wait for 10mins. —Xavier Lur (@xavierlur)
Who are we?
Published every two weeks (with daily updates at sgnow.sg), SG (previously I-S) delivers honest, independent and irreverent coverage of the Singapore lifestyle scene. We’ve been recommending what to do and where to go here for 20 years—and we’ve never been more excited about the city than we are right now.
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Awesome events, cool new places, the very best of the next two weeks
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SG Magazine is published 24 times a year by Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd., 211 Henderson Road, #07‑02, Singapore 159552. Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 • Fax: 65‑6323‑2779. Copyright ©2015 Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. The titles “SG Magazine”, “I-S Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of SG Magazine and I-S Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. SG Magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Contact the Publisher for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in SG Magazine must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by KHL Printing Co. Pte. Ltd., 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968. ISSN 0218‑8872 MCI (P) 174/12/2014
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FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
3
up front
Singapore’s latest news, numbers and dramas at a glance
HOT OR NOT
Our biweekly study of the city’s burgeoning (and dying) trends
OB INDEX
NEWS FROM SGNOW.SG
Charting the ups and downs of Singapore's openness, tolerance and freedom of expression SEP
Hot: Street Parties
A recent article in The Jakarta Post has quoted Indonesian forestry expert Herry Purnomo saying Malaysia and Singapore should also play a more significant role in fighting the haze problem. According to him, about 50% of palm oil companies in Indonesia are owned by Malaysians and Singaporeans and his sentiment is echoed in a Facebook page here by Singaporean Tan Yi Han. The People’s Movement to Stop Haze encourages the public to combat air pollution by being more aware of the palm oil and paper products they buy, instead of only blaming farmers and complaining on Facebook in general.
Not: Swanky Events
We are spent and broke after the splashy series of parties which happened over the F1 weekend ($31,000 for a Methusalem table at Amber Lounge, anyone?), and now it seems revellers have taken to the streets. Circular Road and Haji Lane have both hosted free street parties in recent days, with more on the horizon. Yay!
Hot: Second Outlets
Not: Abrupt Restaurant Exits
Indonesia Fishing Vessel Crew Agency
The dining scene is heating up and it’s not just because of hip newcomers. Established favorites like Kilo, Lolla, Moosehead and Cufflink Club have all opened second ventures here. While Grain Traders (Kilo), Lollapalooza (Lolla), Maggie Joan’s (Moosehead) and Vasco (Cufflink Club) are shaking things up, we are sorely missing the sudden departure of restaurants like Immigrants and Sushi Ichi.
Hot: Sustainable Seafood Not: Overfishing At the Responsible Seafood Festival happening until Oct 25, participating 44 eateries will not be serving overfished species during the event. It’s still a long shot and we’re unsure of the impact it’d make, but dismal figures from the WWF indicates that our oceans will not be able to support the world’s appetite for seafood by 2048.
WE
15
NUMEROLOGY
100 Number of people evacuated from buildings in Little India due to tremors caused by construction works for Downtown Line 2.
$290,000 The amount a lawyer is seeking from her exboyfriend for damages and medical costs resulting in claims of assaults during their relationship.
30,000 Number of WeCare packs containing N95 masks distributed to needy households during the haze.
$6,000 Reward offered by the SPCA for information on a cat abuse case involving the remains of two mutilated kittens.
There’s an exciting new international music festival coming to Singapore
Neon Lights
Neon Lights will be making its debut come Nov 28-29 at Fort Canning Park with two days of popular indie acts and under-theradar artists. The first wave of the line-up is already out and we can count in Irish singer-songwriter Damien Rice, known for songs like “The Blowers Daughter”, and ‘80s boogie band Chic with Nile Rodgers. There’s also Sydney chill out electronic duo Flight Facilities and super groovy French bossa nova band Nouvelle Vague taking to the six different stages, alongside rock bands like Ratatat and Mercury Rev. For now, a total of 16 bands and electronica DJs have been confirmed and in addition to the ones mentioned, Ride, Kiasmos, Mr. Scruff, The Field, Shugo Tokumaru, Sun Kil Moon, Julia Holter, Songhoy Blues, Hanging Up The Moon and Bennett Bay are all slated to play at this festival. Tickets are on sale at Sistic, with two-day weekend early bird passes going for $189.
Website of the Year MPAS 2015
Sources: The Straits Times, Today Online
SG
S I N G A P O R E ’ S H OTT E ST L I F E ST Y L E N E W S
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This week you will mainly love your city for its...
Gyms for Folks with Special Needs Singapore’s first inclusive gym, iFit, has recently opened at Lengkok Bahru and the exercise center has several special-needs friendly features like wheelchairaccessible workout machines, treadmill user panels with Braille, a “hearing induction-loop” system which enhances the voices of fitness instructors for hearing-aid users and even machines that accommodate physical challenges faced by the elderly or the disabled. The gym also offers fitness programs designed for them by trained instructors, such as chair aerobics.
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The essential guide to what’s on in Singapore Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
SUN
FRI
Oct 2
FOOD & DRINK Mabuk Market
Oct 11
Part flea market and part boozy brunch party, the first instalment of this Sunday market has food booths by The Cajun Kings, Park Bench Deli and Harry’s. There are also retail booths by Good Citizen, an open mic session and DJs Fred E and Bobby Luo spinning tunes. Oct 11, 11am. Marina at Keppel Bay, 2 Keppel Bay Vista, 9298-9317. Free.
ART Portable Art Week A new entry in the Singapore art fair scene, this nine day-long exhibition caters to new and budding art collectors. It focuses on various mediums including paintings, ceramic, sculpture and new media by artists like April Ng, Wee Kheng-Li, Milenko Prvacki, Leo Liu and Boo Sze Yang. Oct 2-10. iPreciation, #01-01 HPL House, 50 Cuscaden Rd., 6339-0678, www.ipreciation.com. Free.
MON
CONCERTS Yuna
Oct 14
This Malaysian contemporary jazz singer is a fan favorite. She’ll be performing new groovy tunes from her new album Rescue. Oct 14, 8pm. MasterCard Theatres at Marina Bay Sands, B1/F The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 6688-8868, www.livescape.asia. $68-118.
THU
FILM Perspectives Film Festival
The eighth edition of this film festival centers on the theme of transition, with seven international feature films spanning different genres. Highlights include Xavier Nolan’s Cannes Film Festival Jury Prize winner, Mommy, as well as Kurdish refugee and war film, Turtles Can Fly. There are also animation masterclasses and post-screening dialogues. Oct 15-18. Gallery Theatre, National Museum of Singapore, 93 Stamford Rd., 6332-3659, www. perspectivesfilmfestival.com. $10-48 from Sistic.
SUN
Oct 15
Oct 11
SPORTS Operation Stronghold
This massive 100-person paintball land assault sees you battling it out for victory with 100 opposing insurgents. Oct 11, 9am. Fairway Club Jurong, 11 Japanese Garden Rd., 6261-1211, www. weplaypaintball.com. $80-100.
SAT
NIGHTLIFE White Magic Sunsets
Argentinean DJ Adrian Giordano spins a blend of 80s funk, electro-boogie and old school beats at the beach. He’s joined by duo Silver City who are supporting with their chillout session tunes. Oct 3, 3pm. Tanjong Beach Club, 120 Tanjong Beach Walk, 9750-5323, www. tanjongbeachclub.com. Free.
6
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015
Oct 3
THROUGH
OUTINGS Archifest
This year’s festival that celebrates the city’s architecture has more dialogue, speakers and events to attend. Themed “What Future” it encourages the public to look ahead and imagine the possibilities of the architectural landscape in Singapore. There are also film screenings, interactive installations and guided walks. Through Oct 10. Archifest Festival Village, 79 & 81 Neil Rd., www.archifest.sg. Free, but various events are ticketed.
Oct 10
now ADVERTORIAL
One Man, One Guvnor
Ebizo Ichikawa
STAGE
comedy One Man, One Guvnor One of the UK’s most successful comics Al Murray, returns to Singapore with his latest show celebrating his 20th year as The Pub Landlord. Expect his signature laddish humor. Oct 7, 8pm. University Cultural Centre Hall, NUS, 50 Kent Ridge Crescent, 6516-2492. $68-118 from Sistic.
theater Jonathan, David & Me This original play directed by Luke Kwek highlights the depths, dynamics and limits of friendship between three friends and their journeys through reality and dreamscapes. Oct 14-18, 3pm & 8pm. Drama Centre Black Box, 5/F National Library Building, 100 Victoria St., 6837-8400, www.ourcompany. com.sg. $26-30 from Ticketmash.
Ebizo Ichikawa The scion of Japan’s oldest kabuki family returns to Singapore to put up two plays that have never been seen before, Uwanari and Mimasu Kuruwa no Kasauri. The latter is a brand new piece created specially for the performance, while the former has not been performed in a hundred years. Oct 17, 3pm, 7:30pm; Oct 18, 3pm. Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Avenue, 6688-8868, www.marinabaysands. com. $89-350.
musicals Beyond the Barricade Starring principal performers from Les Miserables like Andy Reiss and Rebecca Vere, this mish-mash production has hit songs from popular musicals like The Phantom of the Opera, The Lion King, West Side Story and Mamma Mia. Oct 9-10, 7:30pm. Grand Theater, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 6688-8868, www.marinabaysands.com. $45-130 from Sistic.
FOOD & DRINKS Seinfeld & Sandwiches Crust Catalog hosts a pastrami sandwich-themed dinner with a screening of Seinfeld’s “The Blood” episode. Oct 2, 7:30pm. Revolution Coffee, #0103A, 21 Media Circle. $25 from Eventbrite.
Yilgarnia Winemaker’s Great Southern Wine Dinner
MUSIC
concerts Empra with Caracal The Melbourne rock band launches their new single “Rebecca” at this intimate concert supported by local band Caracal. Oct 3, 5pm. Hood Bar & Cafe, #05-07 Bugis+, 201 Victoria St., 6221-8846, www.hoodbarandcafe.com. Free. To Paris With Love Jazz pianist Jeremy Monteiro and
Yilgarnia Winemaker’s Great Southern Wine Dinner A family-owned Western Australian vineyard hosts a five-course dinner featuring dishes like kangaroo on the menu paired with wines like a James Halliday-nominated Sauvignon Blanc, and a Shiraz. Oct 3, 7:30pm. Merchants of Singapore, 443 Joo Chiat Rd., www.merchantsofsingapore. com.sg. $108.
guitarist Eugene Pao play tracks from their new collaborative album, To Paris With Love. It’s a tribute to Michael Legrand, a Grammy award-winning film and TV composer. Oct 16, 7:30pm. Victoria Concert Hall, 11 Empress Place. $35-75 from Sistic. Sleepwalker Series presents The Garden The conceptual punk band comprising American twins, Wyatt and Fletcher Shears, performs tracks from their latest album Haha. Expect to hear their unique Vada Vada, punk rock-style songs
like “What We Are” and “Get Me My Blade”. Oct 11, 8pm. $35100 from Peatix.
Asian Sensations Look no further than the Singapore River to satisfy your Chinese, Japanese and other local food cravings. Fuqing Marina Bay Seafood Restaurant This quintessential Chinese seafood restaurant has a riverside location on Boat Quay. Everything here is fresh and cooked-to-order, so all you have to do is point to the seafood you want. Expect favorites like sweet & sour fish and black pepper beef. 46 Boat Quay, 6557-2350. Peony Jade
Jade A definitive dim sum experience, this modern Chinese restaurant is always booked up a few weeks in advance. The newly refurbished space is swanky, with silver and gold motifs—and, of course, good as ever. Don’t miss the weekend dim sum buffet with delicious morsels of crispy prawn dumplings, pan-fried minced pork and chive potstickers and sauteed coffee-flavored pork ribs. G/F The Fullerton Hotel, 1 Fullerton Square, 6877-8188, www.fullertonhotel.com.
Peony Jade There are few better places in town to get your fix of Sichuan and Cantonese food. This one is nestled between the nightclubs and bars of Clarke Quay, but has all the traditional wooden chairs and red motifs. Go with a large group and order up plates of fresh dumplings, roasted meats, tea-smoked duck with mini flower buns and crab claw on silken egg white. #02-02 Clarke Quay, 3A River Valley Rd., 6338-0305, www.peonyjade.com. The Fullerton Hotel
gigs Musicians Unite! This special edition of the Blu Jaz jam session features regular contributor Justin Bannister’s swan song. Musicians like Oli Hughes and Yazeid Rahman will be playing all sorts of genres from funk to jazz with a special guest band. Oct 16. Blu Jaz Cafe, 11 Bali Ln., 9199-0610, www.blujazcafe.net
Tanyoto Restaurant There’s nothing more comforting than a DIY steaming bowl of steamboat with friends and this Sichuan-style steamboat has a perfect light but spicy soup base. But just in case you’re not in the mood for spice, they’ve got many other bases ranging from ginseng chicken to tomato soup. Plus, get other ingredients like fresh prawn paste, dumplings, wagyu beef and Kurobuta pork slices. #01-25/25A Liang Court, 177 River Valley Rd., 6836-5839, www.tanyoto.com.sg.
Town Restaurant If you can’t decide what cuisine you want to eat, head to Fullerton Hotel’s swish buffet restaurant. Not only do they have an amazingly complete spread, the cooks do great renditions of Asian classics, from chicken rice and roast duck to Indian curries and Japanese sushi. The picturesque riverside location, complete with a pretty alfresco space, makes the experience complete. G/F The Fullerton Hotel, 1 Fullerton Square, 6733-8388, www.fullertonhotel.com.
From now
Empra with Caracal
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
7
now PHOTOGRAPHY Richard Koh’s aerial images of Singapore
NIGHTLIFE Rakes presents A-Trak The Chijmes bottle service club brings heavyweight Canadian DJ A-Trak’s signature electro-house and hip hop sounds. He will no doubt be playing hits like “Radio Stereo” and “Say Whoa”. Oct 2, 10pm. #B103/04 Chijmes, 30 Victoria St., 8798-2726, www.rakes. sg. $30. Star Slinger This bearded British DJ plays hip hop, dance and soul music influenced by the likes of Loose Ends, Kendrick Lamar and Childish Gambino at this breezy rooftop bar. Oct 3, 9pm. OverEasy, #01-06 One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Rd., 9129-8484, www.overeasy.com.sg.
Rakes presents A-Trak
Musicology Scottish restaurant and bar Highlander debuts the new Wednesday night music sessions with R&B, dancehall and dance-pop tunes and an hour of free-flow Monkey Shoulder cocktails. Oct 7, 9pm. Highlander, #B1-05 Chijmes, 30 Victoria St., 6336-1239, www.highlanderasia.com. Free.
HDB Flats
Otto Knows This Swedish DJ, who catapulted to fame with his hit “Million Voices” spins his energetic house anthems. Oct 9, 10pm. Zouk, 17 Jiak Kim St., 6738-2988, www.zoukclub.com.sg. $28-33.
Over Singapore
Richard WJ Koh
A former engineer, Richard W J Koh’s photography has shown in New York, San Francisco, Dhaka and Bangkok. But his most recent series, comprising unusual and surprising photos of Singapore taken from helicopters, really caught our eye. These striking images will be part of an exhibition at the URA and have been compiled into a book, Over Singapore. Here, the photographer shares how he came to work on this project. You made a mid-career switch to photography. Tell us about that. I worked in HP as an R&D engineer for three fruitful years, with some mechanical design patents filed, before I decided that I had to give myself a chance at professional photography as a dream career. I was thankful to be able to earn a decent living in professional photography. My philosophy that a person who puts his heart in his work will receive his just wages, paid off. My faith that God gives us our daily bread also helped me greatly, especially when I often do not know when my next job will come. What can you see from that vantage point? There are interesting patterns and landforms which are only revealed from the sky. The outlying islands, lighthouses and land being reclaimed can only be seen in their entirety
from an aircraft as there are no tall buildings there to view them from. Familiar buildings in the city such as The Esplanade, Gardens by the Bay and Resorts World Sentosa all look very interesting from the air. Even our ubiquitous HDB flats resemble Legoland when viewed from above, as radio DJ Maddy at Kiss92 FM put it. Isn’t it hard to do much work, when it involves arranging expensive transport? It is indeed! Much time was spent studying maps and planning the flight routes for the civilian helicopter flights to maximize opportunities in the air and all manner of contingencies. The terrible haze and busy air traffic in our airspace made it all the more challenging. As for the military helicopter flights, I only had one take at everything and no say in the route as I was hitching a ride on each flight for the National Day rehearsals last year. I depended on good communication, flexible and adaptive plans plus great teamwork with all concerned. Much equipment preparation was also needed, from securing everything before flight, to proper camera settings, to checking that all equipment functions and tiny details like knowing your camera’s data write speed to pace the shots at the decisive moments. The rest of it can’t be prepared, such as instinct and being able to react to changes in the air.
All photos by Richard W J Koh. Head to his exhibition at the URA Centre, 45 Maxwell Road, level 3. He is also giving a talk at the exhibition venue on Oct 3 and the exhibition runs from now till Oct 31. To purchase a copy of his aerial photographs, titled Over Singapore, visit his website at: www.aerophotoworks.com. MRIGAA SETHI
w w w. s g n o w. s g | 2 0 1 5 M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
Can we breathe again?
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #687 | OCTOBER 2, 2015 since 1995
Otto Knows
CELEBRATING 20 YEARS
what’s on what’s new what matters
I Am Just Doing Aesthetics
Figuratively Speaking The Coast is Clear Various works by Winston Oh Travel Award recipients are on show. Each person was given the opportunity to go abroad to find inspiration from a locale’s aesthetics and translate it into their own works. Through Oct 11, 12pm. Lasalle College of the Arts, 1 McNally St., 6496-5000, www.lasalle.edu.sg. Free.
8 Women
ART 8 Women: Photo Exhibition by Grace Baey In conjunction with LGBT festival IndigNation, Singapore-based photographer Grace Baey captures the portrait of eight transgender women who reside in Farrer Park and Little India. Through Oct 17, 1pm. Grey Projects, 6B Kim Tian Rd., www.greyprojects.org. Free. The Blue of Distance For the first time local artist Tan features her wood-dominant art. This is the fourth time she is having her solo show at this gallery, where she also showcases over ten other paintings that have scroll-like qualities. Through Oct 25, 11am. Fost Gallery, #01-02 Gillman Barracks, 1 Lock Rd., 6694 3080, www.fostgallery.com. Free.
Cover Up
I Am Just Doing Aesthetics Indonesian-born artist Wisnu Auri shows his painting collection where he explores the theme “power of disturbing taste” through street art-style, Baroque-derived paintings. Through Oct 18. Element Art Space, #02-13 Raffles Hotel, Raffles Hotel Arcade, 328 North Bridge Rd., 6883-2001, www.elementartspace.com. Free. Navin Thomas: The Heart is a Variant The first solo exhibition of this India-based artist showcases his unique brand of juxtaposed works. He fuses electro-acoustic ecologies with natural ecologies to create abstract art pieces that combine sound with physical objects. Oct 10-Dec 2, 12pm. Lasalle College of the Arts, 1 McNally St., 6496-5000, www.lasalle.edu.sg. Free. Figuratively Speaking Featuring over 40 portraits and figures of humans, this exhibition ropes in 11 artists from Singapore, Vietnam and Indonesia to show the countries’ different cultures, heritage and identities. Through Oct 5. Maya Gallery, #01-21 Oxley Bizhub 2, 62 Ubi Rd. 1, 6291-1760, www.mayagallery.com.sg. Free.
SG Magazine covers celebrate local artists, photographers and illustrators and their remarkable depictions of Singapore. Richard Koh’s striking aerial images of Singapore, taken from helicopters, are on display at URA Centre until Oct 31. Turn to PHOTOGRAPHY , page 8, for an interview
NEIGHBORHOOD
FOOD
TRAVEL
INTERVIEW
Back to Kampong Glam
Upscale Hawker Centers
Where to Go Skiing
A Podcast About Singapore
They look so good, we’ve even started hanging them on our walls.
To suggest someone we should feature or to partner with us on this initiative, email editor@asia-city.com.sg
8
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015
The Blue of Distance
Navin Thomas
The Coast is Clear
CAREERS
The late
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now FILM
New Balance Run On
HAPPENINGS
sports Light Up Your Life Run This non-competitive charity run has various categories, like the individual 5km run, 10km run and 2km dog walk. Fringe activities include a mini carnival and funds go towards the operating expenses for Assisi Hospice and Save Our Street Dogs. Oct 3, 5pm. East Coast Park, East Coast Parkway, 6440-0046. $35-200.
19th German Film Festival
Commando Challenge This challenging 6km obstacle run has 14 military-style obstacles that include climbing, diving and crawling through fire, ice and electricity. Oct 17, 11am. Sentosa, www.commandochallenge.sg. $85-99.
Singapore International Film Festival - Mee Pok Man
The Women in Film & Photography Showcase
film festivals Taiwan Documentary Showcase With Taiwan’s recent output of acclaimed documentaries, which has won multiple local and international awards, this showcase highlights three of the country’s recent documentaries. The lineup features films about Taiwan’s Golden Horse Award, The Moment: Fifty Years of Golden Horse; Chan Hwai-Eng’s A Life That Sings - Ya Hsien and River Without Banks - Lo Fu. Oct 2-3. Golden Village VivoCity, 2/F & 3/F VivoCity, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6311-9162, www.unisim. edu.sg. Free. 23rd Israel Film Festival This edition of the film festival has a woman-focused theme showing six Israeli films. On the roster are films like Tayla Lavie’s dramedy about female soldiers completing their military service in Zero Motivation (followed by a post-screening discussion); GETT - A Trial of Viviane Amsalem, a film about a woman’s five year-long struggle to get a divorce in a rabbinical court and The Good Son, which tells the story of a 22-year-old male who is secretly getting a sex change without his parents’ knowledge. Oct 21-27. Golden Village VivoCity, 2/F & 3/F VivoCity, 1 HarbourFront Walk, 6311-9162, www.facebook.com/ IFFsingapore. $9. The Women in Film & Photography Showcase Comprising a photography exhibition and various film screenings, this women-centric festival touches on issues like loneliness, gender stereotyping, culture and identity. Film highlights include Berlin Film Festivalwinner Megane by Naoko Ogigami and Singapore Panda by Sun Koh, which portrays immigration, the Chinese diaspora and the modern globalization of Singapore. Oct 22-Nov 29. Objectifs, 155 Middle Rd., 6336-2957, www.objectifs.com.sg. Free. Cinema Haute Couture The glamor of French fashion is transplanted to Singapore through this film series. In conjunction with Digital Fashion Week, films include Madamoiselle C, a film about Carine Roitfeld, the former Vogue Paris editor-in-chief, by Fabien Constant who will also be in town for a Q&A session, as well as William Klein’s Who are you Polly Maggoo? Oct 28. Alliance Francaise de Singapour, 1 Sarkies Rd., 6737-8422, www. alliancefrancaise.org.sg. $15-30. 19th German Film Festival Showcasing the newest of Berlin cinema, 22 films will be screened for the first time in Singapore at this festival. Focusing on the theme “search for identity”, expect WWII drama Phoenix and awardwinning thriller Victoria on the roster. There’s also an eight-film retrospective of director Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s works. Nov 5-15. Various venues, www. goethe.de/singapore. Tickets TBA. Singapore International Film Festival The 26th edition of this film festival will show the newest and most eclectic regional Asian films. Tak-
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Puma Night Run Run through Marina Bay and Kallang River at night at this 10km run. There are men’s and women’s categories. Oct 17, 7:30pm. Marina Barrage, 8 Marina Gardens Dr., www.puma-nightrun.com.sg. $52-65. New Balance Run On The sports brand’s first top in the regional race series has runners going for a 5km speed challenge, where
Commando Challenge you can run an extra kilometer to challenge yourself. There is also a pop-up festival and picnic with food and craft beer. Oct 24, 5pm. Gardens by the Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Dr., www.nbrunon.sg. $27-40.
outings Healing Garden Tour This tour sheds light on some 400 different kinds of medical-related plants and how their properties have benefited and healed many cultures across Southeast Asia. Oct 3, 9pm. Singapore Botanic Gardens, 1 Cluny Rd., 6471-7138, www.nparks.gov.sg. Free. Escape from Reverie The first-ever escape game held at the library gets people to uncover the mystery of a cursed book that traps people in infinite dreams. Oct 3, 12pm. National Library Building, 100 Victoria St., www.theescapeartist. sg. $25 from Peatix. What’s In My Sky? Go bird watching and learn about their natural habitat in the lush Sungei Buloh. Registration ends Oct 7. Oct 10, 9:30am. Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, 301 Neo Tiew Crescent, 6794-1401, www.npark.gov.sg. Free.
PLAN AHEAD 4 events to get booking for in the coming months 23rd Israel Film Festival ing place at cool new venues around town, there are two iconic local films that made it into the lineup, which includes Eric Khoo’s Mee Pok Man and Taiwanese director Yonfan’s film, Bugis Street, about transvestites and transsexuals living in 1960s Bugis Street. Nov 26-Dec 6. Various venues, www.sgiff. com. Tickets TBA. A Clockwork Orange
Singapore Writers Festival
Clean Bandit
Singapore River Festival
cinema highlights Pawn Sacrifice A true story set during the height of the Cold War, American chess prodigy Bobby Fischer (Tobey Maguire) is caught between two superpowers when he challenges the Soviet Empire to a game of chess. Also starring Peter Sarsgaard, Liev Schreiber and Lily Rabe. Opens Oct 1. The Martian Matt Damon plays astronaut Mark Watney who was abandoned by his crew during a manned mission to Mars. Against all circumstances, he survives and has to battle the planet’s harsh landscape. Also starring Jessica Chastain, Kristen Wiig, Chiwetel Ejiofor and Kate Mara. Opens Oct 1. Boulevard Robin Williams’ last move sees him assume the role of a loving husband who struggles with the repression of his inner-self. His journey unfolds when he encounters a troubled young man named Leo (Roberto Aguire) who makes him realize this is an opportunity for change. Opens Oct 8. Pan The magical story of Peter Pan, an orphan who is whisked away into Neverland, is reprised in this movie, which stars Hugh Jackman as Blackbeard, Levi Miller as Peter Pan, Garrett Hedlund as James Hook and Rooney Mara as Tiger Lily. Opens Oct 8. Straight Outta Compton The much-lauded film about five young men who put their frustrations and anger towards their music is finally here. Starring O’Shea Jackson Jr., Corey Hawkins and Paul Giamatti, this biographical film portrays hip hop group N.W.A’s rise to fame with their first album, Straight Outta Compton. Opens Oct 1.
Singapore River Festival Official Lifestyle Media This year’s edition of the river festival has an exciting lineup of acts including world-famous acrobatic troupe La Fura dels Baus, as well as local artisan markets with live music and urban art around the three quays. Oct 23-25. Singapore River (Boat Quay, Clarke Quay & Robertson Quay). Free. Singapore Writers Festival Official Lifestyle Media The literary festival is back with more speakers, authors and workshops led by international and local names like Alexandra SpencerJones, Audrey Chin and Alfian Sa’at. Oct 30-Nov 8. Various venues. Free, with some ticketed events. A Clockwork Orange Official Media Directed by Alexandra SpencerJones, this gritty all-male retelling of Anthony Burgess’ literary classic (and Kubrick’s adapted film masterpiece) has earned it an M18 rating in Singapore. Set in the Manchester underworld, expect lots of shirtless men and a “playtime of orgiastic ultraviolence and sexuality”. Nov 4-7, 8pm; Nov 8, 7pm. Various venues. $58-128 from Sistic. Taylor Swift The multi-award-winning pop starlet will be in town to perform all the hits like “Bad Blood,” “Style” and
from her fifth studio album, 1989. Here’s hoping that she’ll bring in her entourage of famous friends to make guest appearances on stage. Nov 7-8, 8pm. Singapore Indoor Stadium, 2 Stadium Walk, 6344-2660. $128-328 from Sportshubtix. Clean Bandit The award-winning English electronic quartet, who is best known for hit songs like “Rather Be”, are in town for the first time ever to play their unique sound that blends classical and dance music. Expect songs from their debut album New Eyes. Nov 25, 8pm. The Coliseum, Resorts World Sentosa, 8 Sentosa Gateway, 6577-8888, www.facebook.com/secretsoundsasia. $58-88 from Sistic. Neon Lights This new music and arts festival brings in popular indie acts and under-the-radar artists, some of whom have never played in Singapore. Expect big names like Damien Rice and Chic feat. Nile Rodgers, as well as indie electronic duo Flight Facilities and French bossa nova band Nouvelle Vague. Nov 28-29. Fort Canning Green, 1 Cox Terrace, www.neonlights.sg. $189 for twoday early bird passes.
The Write
Stuff
6 great reasons to check out this year’s Singapore Writers Festival
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ith over 300 events and dozens of writers, thinkers and performers from around the world, this year’s Singapore Writers Festival has some new treats up its sleeve. From world-class stage adaptations of classic works to indie concerts in intimate venues to cerebral lectures and discussions, there are plenty of reasons to get excited. Here are some.
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Gorgeous New Venues
One of the best things about the Singapore Writers Festival is a chance to revisit the lovely Civic District and some of Singapore’s most beautiful historic buildings. This year is no different, with many events taking place at The Arts House, Asian Civilisations Museum, National Library and elsewhere. New this year, however, are two exciting openings: the ultra-modern Indian Heritage Centre on Campbell Lane and the much anticipated and magnificently restored National Gallery Singapore on Saint Andrews Road will also host events. If you haven’t had a chance to explore these two new buildings, this is a great time to start.
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Pop-Up Events
Especially exciting this year are the pop-up events at The Arts House, called SWF POP: don’t miss gigs by Lorong Boys (Oct 30, 7pm) and Wobology (Nov 1, 1:15pm) and an installment of the Story Slam storytelling session on Nov 1 (8pm). Literary foodies should head to the Aesop store at Capitol Piazza on Oct 8, 7pm, for a Peranakan storytelling and food session by author Josephine Chia.
National Gallery Singapore
Indian Heritage Centre
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Goenawan Mohamad
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Cutting-Edge Stage Performances
A Clockwork Orange
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Riveting Lectures & Discussions
More than just readings, Singapore Writers Festival has always combined mediums and presented engaging events. This year’s stage offerings include some very unusual pieces. Here are the highlights.
Writers, journalists and thinkers from all over the world will converge to discuss political, esoteric, hyperlocal and of course literary concerns. These are ones we’re especially excited about.
What I Love About You Is Your Attitude Problem Load up on your caffeine in preparation for this allnighter stage performance curated by leading dramatist Huzir Sulaiman. The 12-hour show will combine music, poetry, drama and visual art to explore the journey of the self. November 6-7, 7pm, The Arts House, various rooms
Alter Nations What does it mean to be a Singaporean writer? Or an Indian or Macedonian one? In this panel discussion, three writers explore what a global identity means for them, the concept of home and of course, for their work. November 7, 2:30pm, The Arts House, Chamber
Tweet for Change This is a relevant event for Singapore, one of the most Don Quixote social media hungry nations in the world. Hong Kong Veteran Indonesian writer and thinker Goenawan Huzir Sulaiman blogger Jason Y Ng, Singaporean writer Chan Lishan, TED Mohamad’s homage to the Cervantes classic is speaker Bhavani Prakash and British writer Laura Bates talk performed through music, theater and visual art as part of the about whether social media can bring about change. Singapore Writers Festival’s focus this year on Indonesia. November 8, 10am, The Arts House, Chamber October 30, 8pm, The Arts House Unravelling Haruki Murakami A Clockwork Orange Cult favorite Murakami’s latest opus Wind/Pinball just came Hold your breath for this exciting, sensuous, all-male out in August. What better time to sit in on a discussion adaptation of Anthony Burgess’s dystopian teen novella, which among translators and critics about the enigmatic Japanese premiered at the 2011 Edinburgh Fringe Festival and has had a novelist’s influence and art. sell-out run in London’s SoHo. November 1, 2:30pm, The Arts House, The Chamber November 2, 7:30pm, The Arts House, Chamber
ADVERTORIAL
Q&A Yeow Kai Chai, Festival Director, Singapore Writers Festival, National Arts Council
In Each Hand a Cutlass
What are some new things happening at SWF this year?
An SWF audience member posing a question to the panelist
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Xu Zhiyuan
A Celebration of Multilingualism
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Outstanding Concerts
Singapore is a melting pot of cultures, and the festival does full justice to its multiplicity through a variety of readings, lectures and workshops in its national languages.
Even literary types can be hip, too. Check out three, super indie concerts taking place under the auspices of the festival—among many others throughout the week.
Na Muthukumar and His Poetry of Songs Two-time National Award winner Na Muthukumar is an Indian literary treasure who has imbued the music of South Indian films with poetry. In this Tamil-language session, he presents contemporary poems. October 31, 2:30pm, The Arts House, Kumon Blue Room
Island of Dreams Two of Singapore’s most well known rock backs, In Each Hand a Cutlass and I Am David Sparkle, perform in this epic double bill, where they will interpret the Singapore Writers Festival theme: Island of Dreams. October 30, 8pm, Victoria Theatre
The Role of Women in Malay Literature Malaysian writers Kamaria Buang, Sri Rayahu and Faizal Tehrani discuss whether women write differently than men and whether there is such a thing as “women’s poetry” and “women’s fiction”. November 8, 11:30am, The Arts House, US Embassy Screening Room
Hollie Fullbrook An indie music darling in New Zealand, Hollie Fullbrook will perform an intimate show featuring songs from her album, Brightly Painted One, which won Best Alternative Album at the New Zealand Music Awards in 2014. November 1, 8pm, The Arts House, Chamber
Dimensions & Demons China Re-Visioned There are concerts, there are literary readings, and then China and Hong Kong’s sociopolitical there are mash-ups. This is one of the latter. Singaporean developments have made headlines in recent years, writers such as Dave Chua and Stephanie Ye team up with Kamaria and this lecture brings together witty Hong Kong musicians like Weish of .gif and Jean Low of Giants Must Buang columnist Chip Tsao and Beijing-based thinker and Fall to create original compositions. writer Xu Zhiyuan for a stimulating discussion in Mandarin. November 5, 8pm, Esplanade, Recital Studio October 31, 2pm, Victoria Theatre
2015 will see the festival’s return to the Empress Place area in the Civic District and the launch of five festival tracks—SWF Stage, SWF3, SWF POP, SWF Class and SWF Beyond, which will cater to audiences with varying interests, from fiction and poetry to songwriting and column-writing. SWF is also pleased to announce new tie-ups with first time partners including the National Gallery Singapore, Asian Civilisation Museum, The Select Centre, UnThinkTank, India Heritage Centre, NTU Division of Chinese and Frankfurt Book Fair. You’re doing some big multi-disciplinary shows this year.
There will be a first-ever overnight immersive experience with drama, poetry, songwriting, and prose called What I Love About You Is Your Attitude Problem. SWF and Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay will also collaborate for Dimensions and Demons, where Singapore writers and musicians will work together on original compositions. And there’s a special country focus?
This year, working together with The Arts House, the Festival will shine a spotlight on Indonesia, exploring its long traditions of the word. What’s the state of literature consumption in Singapore lately?
Singaporeans are still largely driven by popular titles and big names, as is the case overseas. But increasingly, there is the heartening trend of going local. With publishers such as Ethos, Epigram, Landmark, NUS Press and BooksActually as well as folks like Joshua Ip starting ground-up initiatives like SingPoWriMo, there is a hunger for home-grown voices. There are also more readings and cross-genre performances involving Singapore writers. Just look at the turn-out for the Speakeasy series organised by Pooja Nansi at Artistry. It’s packed to the gills! What’s the biggest misconception the public has about the festival?
The biggest misconception about SWF is that it is only for literary fans. There is literally something for everyone—young or old; book-lover or music-lover; the serious literature fan or the man off the street. Come and experience it for yourself.
Chip Tsao
An enraptured audience at SWF
The Singapore Writers Festival: Island of Dreams will take place Oct 30-Nov 8 at various venues around Singapore’s Civic District. Tickets are available at www.sistic.com now. Early bird discount ends October 11. For more information, visit www.singaporewritersfestival.com
@sgwritersfest
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FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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city scape NEIGHBORHOOD
Kampong Spirit
Hotel Vagabond, ‘90s cocktails, maker workshops…so many new reasons to head back to Kampong Glam. By Chelsia Tan Fifth Quarter
Kampong Glam
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Fresh!
his cool heritage hood has always been on our radar for hipster cafes, indie boutiques and stylish staycations. But there’s been an increased flurry of activity there lately, and we’ve been keeping tabs on all the exciting developments.
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Chef Andrew Nocente helms Hotel Vagabond’s mod-grill restaurant 1 Fifth Quarter (39 Syed Alwi Rd., 6291-1936, www.5thquarter.com.sg) specializing in Italian-style cured
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The luxe Hotel Vagabond has opened in all of its arty glory, following the buzz about its location in an art deco building at the fringes of the neighborhood (39 Syed Alwi Rd., 6291-3203, www.hotelvagabondsingapore.com). There are features such as opulent hand-crafted gold trees and an arts and events area displaying a curated collection of artworks. And to make it truly bohemian, there’s a rotational “artist in residence” program including DJs, painters, sculptors, musicians and tattooists.
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7. Of course, you can’t miss the food
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The area is well known for its Malay cuisine and while places like Indonesian restaurant 7 Sari Ratu (20 Pahang St., 6294-9983, www.sariratu.sg), nasi Padang specialists 3 Hajah Maimunah (11-15 Jln. Pisang, 6291-3132, www.hjmaimunah.com) and Malay kopitiam 9 Kampong Glam Cafe (17 Bussorah St., 6297-1697, www.kgglamcafe. ec-platform.net) are must-tries, it’s also home to 8 Mrs Pho (349 Beach Rd., 6292-0018, www.mrspho.com), a Bjorn Shen-approved Vietnamese Pho eatery and popular bakery 5 Rich and Good Cake Shop (24 Kandahar St., 6294-3324). Go early or be prepared to queue for its signature kaya swissrolls. And just recently, there was even a Filipinothemed dinner at cafe and arts space Artistry by Culture Kitchen, who are behind a series of events inviting Singaporeans and migrant workers.
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Kampong Glam Cafe
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3. The opening of Hotel Vagabond
Event planning company, florist and cafe 10 Wonderland (37 Haji Ln, 6299-5848) has more to offer than just bouquets, cakes and fancy Tiffany chairs. They also host regular maker sessions and previous workshops included botanical art classes, floral design, terrarium-building classes and watercolor classes. Next up, on Oct 10, is a modern calligraphy session with The Letter J Supply. It’s $150 for three hours and you have to register at www.wfdp.myshopify.com.
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6. Maker workshops at Haji Lane
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While there are some cringey elements of the era we’d wish to never revisit again, we’d gladly hit repeat for veteran mixologist Shawn Kishore’s fun and kitschy cocktails at 4 Fresh! (2/F The Sultan, 101 Jln. Sultan, 6723-7101, www.thesultan.com.sg). Drinks like Peach Fit, with peach liqueur, Peychaud bitters, vanilla syrup and bubbles and Xin Jia Po Sling, with smoked gin, sloe gin, Cointreau and hibiscus-jackfruit shrub are sweet, refreshing and unabashedly cheeky. Throw in cheesy boyband tunes, in-your-face pop art and unpretentious bar bites like calamari rings, and you are pretty much in for a raucous time.
Hotel Vagabond
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Following the recent showcase of ‘90s hip-hop and metal concerts at 6 Aliwal Arts Centre, a much tamer series of A capella events is happening until Oct 31, comprising workshops and performances by various vocal groups such as Urban Rock Choir, Acappuccino, Key Elements and Filipino Voice Symphony. The festival brings together over 100 singers from Singapore, Sweden and the Philippines in 10 concerts through the month. These are all ticketed events, so head to www.aliwalartscentre.sg for more details.
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5. A cappella at Aliwal Arts Centre
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2 Artistry (17 Jln. Pinang, 6298-2420, www.artistryspace. com), the cafe-slash-arts space, hosts a variety of events ranging from indie music performances to poetry readings by emerging talents, and next on their line-up is an art exhibition by Lithuanian-French artist Ausra, who has shown her works at over 40 exhibitions across France and Lithuania since 2006. This time, she’ll be exploring the complex connection between art and music on Oct 9 at 7:00pm. And come Oct 14, Singaporean singer-songwriter bittymacbeth will be performing with homegrown band The Madhatter Project.
meats. Sink your teeth into rum-cured pork belly, salt and pepper tripe, salami, lardo, coppa and more like smoked, pickled and cured seafood, game and vegetable plates.
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LA FURA DELS BAUS
23 OCT to 25 OCT 2015
Internationally known for their elaborate performance theatre, La Fura dels Baus will be creating a unique performance in celebration of Singapore’s story, which will be written and produced locally and performed by a cast, including dancers, musicians and aerialists whom will be suspended over the Singapore River. 23 Oct – 24 Oct • 8pm & 10pm Riverside Point, Clarke Quay
www.singaporeriverfestival.sg www.facebook.com/singaporeriverfestival
URBAN ARTERY
CELEBRATING SINGAPORE RIVER STORIES
RIVERSIDE MAKERS MARKET
For 10 days, the alleyways of Circular Road become a giant canvas for progressive urban art installations by local and international street artists. 23 Oct – 1 Nov Circular Road, Boat Quay
Pop-up event showcasing local musical, creative and F&B talent 24 Oct – 25 Oct • 5pm – 10pm Robertson Quay
COMPLIMENTARY RIVER BOAT RIDES Pioneer Generation Cardholders Enjoy complimentary River Boat Rides, whilst stocks last! 23 Oct – 25 Oct • 9am – 6pm American Express® Card Members To celebrate American Express’ 90th birthday and the launch of the new Singapore River Walk, American Express is offering complimentary River Boat Rides to American Express® Card Members*! *Terms and Conditions apply. For more details on redemption, please refer to www.singaporeriverfestival.sg.
24 Oct – 25 Oct • 9am – 6pm Fort Canning Jetty (Behind Liang Court) Clarke Quay
SR SIGNATURES
Dining promotion at a selection of establishments handpicked by a panel of critics, comprising of their favourite food and drink that can be found along the three quays, presenting a unique guide to wine and dining along the Singapore River. Boat Quay, Clarke Quay, Robertson Quay
Presented by
Supported by
Held in
River Boat Rides brought to you by
Sponsors
island
The latest openings and hottest trends in Singapore
Moncler
In Good Company
The Bespoke Club
NEW PLACES
Shop Hop There’s been buzz about some exciting new stores across town. But if you haven’t been keeping tabs, here’s a quick round-up. By Chelsia Tan
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Moncler
The French outdoor apparel brand will be launching its first store at Ion Orchard this year-end and it’s come a long way from its days as a utilitarian sportswear brand for rugged mountaineers. Of course, their signature quilted jackets are here to stay, but their Fall-Winter collections for men and women feature fashionista-friendly pieces such as floral bomber jackets, khaki shearling coats and structured wool dresses. It’s definitely not meant for the tropics, but if you’re going skiing in Aspen, then why not? Where: #01-07 Ion Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, www.moncler.com
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Megafash
This local e-commerce retailer has just opened its third brick-and-mortar store at Orchard Gateway in September. Expect lots of hipster fashion and accessory labels for millennials, such as popular watch brand Daniel Wellington, socks label Iconic Socks, accessory purveyor Plain Supplies and TENS Sunglasses. Where: #02-06 Orchard Gateway, 277 Orchard Rd., www.megafash.com
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In Good Company
The local fashion label’s 3,300 sq ft space stocks an extensive womenswear collection, but clothes are not their only focus. There are international cult glossies by magazine retailer Magpie, books by local authors from publisher Math Paper Press, handcrafted bags from Hong Kong label Hoiming and laundry care products from Australian laundry brand Mr. Black. Plus, the boutique’s 800 sq ft in-house cafe by Plain Vanilla Bakery features, for the first time, savory items like grilled sandwiches, freshly made granola, fruit and yoghurt bowls with walnut
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crumble and agave nectar, as well as cakes, pastries and artisanal breads. Where: #B1-06 Ion Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, 6509-4786, www.ingoodcompany.asia
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The Bespoke Club
More tailored options for corporate honchos—The Bespoke Club will be launching a new flagship store at Suntec City this month. The 1,000 sq ft store customizes and tailors suits, shirts and separates for both men and women with prices ranging from $850 onwards for suits. Expect to be fussed over by a team of experienced professional style consultants who’ll be dispensing advice on the best fit. There are also off-the-rack pieces for sale, like bow ties, pocket squares, cufflinks, lapel pins, bracelet and a custom shoe collection for men. Orders typically take four to six weeks and an appointment is not necessary.
Muji
Where: #01-484 Suntec City, 3 Temasek Blvd
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Muji
The popular Japanese zen lifestyle retailer’s newly revamped Paragon store comes with a couple of twists. It now has a made-to-order service for selected fabric and furniture products and, yes, the much-awaited launch of Muji Cafe. The 1,300 sq ft cafe comes with a menu of items like salads, baked bak kut teh with honey glaze, fried chicken with sweet chili mayonnaise and saba with sweet and spicy miso sauce and a choice of white rice or bread. It also offers tea time options such as cakes and puddings, and drinks like coffee, jasmine tea, matcha latte, iced yuzu squash and iced ginger ale. Just don’t leave your dirty trays on the tables—like IKEA’S food hall, it’s a selfservice, pick-up-after-yourself concept. Where: #04-26/40 Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd., 6735-0123, www.muji.com
Megafash
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FEATURING LIMITED EDITION (SG) BEATS BY MR. HAS | OLIVER OSBORNE | PATRICK OLIVER
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FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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eats
The inside scoop on Singapore’s drink and dining scene
JAPANESE Kyoto Kuisine Hide Yamamoto expands into another waterside location at Wagokoro by Hide Yamamoto (#01-04 The Quayside, 60 Robertson Quay, 6733-6315, www. wagokorohy.com) Robertson Quay. This time he’s serving traditional Kappo cuisine from Kyoto in a kaiseki format. The zen wooden space, complete with a tempura counter, takes over the now-defunct Kappo Yorito, but retains some concepts including the must-try duck consomme oden and homemade soba. It does have a certain clinical and precise Japanese atmosphere, but you’ll be able to dig in to six-course omakase lunches ($80) and eight- ($158), nine- ($238) and 10-course ($300-500) dinner sets.
MEDITERRANEAN Hidden Gems
The father-and-son team behind Moosehead expands with hidden restaurant Maggie Joan’s (110 Amoy St., 6221-5564, www.maggiejoans.com). Don’t feel bad if you can’t find the entrance: it’s located in a back alley of Gemmill Lane behind a non-descript metal door. Inside it’s all about exposed brickwork and wooden banquettes dotted with potted plants and ceramicware, but the modern Mediterranean food by Chef Oliver Hyde seems interesting, with fresh dishes of yellowtail sashimi with brandade ($22), egg with dukkah and saffron mayo ($6), roast bass with pesto ($28) and grilled Iberico pork jowl with prunes and cauliflower ($34).
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LUNCH
Tools of the Trade
Perfect for a quick morning office breakfast or desk lunch, Grain Traders (#01-01 CapitaGreen, 138 Market St., 63486559, www.grain-traders.com), by the Kilo guys, serves hearty and healthy fare that you can mix-and-match. The airy space is utilitarian-chic with benches and leather director-style chairs in an all-concrete space. Pick up bagels ($10) stuffed with guac and bacon or healthy bowls of oatmeal ($8) and porridge ($8). You can build-your-own bowls ($16) filled with a carb/grain, a protein, veggies, topping and sauce—or if you’re feeling lazy, just opt for one of their signature bowls like the El Hibaro (striploin, salsa verde, wafu tomato, $16).
MODERN EUROPEAN Bacchus-Approved
Bacchanalia (39 HongKong St., 6509-1453, www. bacchanalia.asia), a modern European fine dining restaurant has finally reopened at their cool new digs on HongKong Street. This time, chefs Ivan Brehm and Mark Ebbels focus more on local and regional produce sourced from farms in Singapore and Malaysia, but they’ve also got their own herb garden. With a weekly changing menu, the wood, steel and leather-clad space focuses on five- ($115) and seven-course ($150) degustation menus, with dishes like scallops with borlotti beans and caviar; and dry-aged beef tartare with Chinese mustard and oxalis.
eats
Salut Kopitiam
Palette
The Bedok Marketplace
AFFORDABLE
Hip Hawkers Burgers, pastas, fusion food and more, these centers serve upscale food without the elevated prices. By Letitia Tandean Alibabar The Hawker Bar
This hip hangout has recently expanded from its East Coast digs to a new branch in Alexandra’s Park Hotel. The East Coast flaghip is an upscale kopitiam by day, serving ramen from Ramen Bar Suzuki, gourmet burgers courtesy of Burger Bar and French food from Immanuel French Kitchen. By night, the place transforms into a hawker bar where you can get craft beers and still order plates of chicken wings and pizzas. 125 East Coast Rd., 6440-6147
The Bedok Marketplace
One of the newer upscale hawker places, this once has rows of stalls that look like shophouses. The stalls here all serve different things, some of which you may be hardpressed to find on a normal day out. Ones to look out for include Ballistic Meatballs (#02-02/03, www.facebook. com/ballisticmeatballs), which makes their meatballs fresh daily; SPies & All Things Nice (#02-15, www.facebook.com/ spiesandallthingsnice), which specializes in Asian-inspired pies like chicken laksa and beef rendang shepherd’s pie, and Chop Chop Selections (#02-01, www.facebook.com/ thechopchopselections), a meat-centric stall with chargrilled T-bone steaks and pasta mee goreng. 348 Bedok Rd., www.thebedokmarketplace.com.sg
Essen at The Pinnacle
What better place to start a hip hawker center than at a stylish HDB in Duxton? The cold drinks stall has a wide range of beers, from Tiger and Heineken to Rekordelig and Corona, alongside Two Wings (www.facebook.com/twowingsSG) chicken wings, which also has a branch at the original hip hawker Salut. The wooden and slightly industrial-looking space also dishes out pizzas and French-style mussels. But one of the best stalls must be the collab between Enoch’s
and Immanuel French Kitchen: Garcons (www.facebook. com/garcons.sg) is a French stall serving dishes like sous vide 12-hour pork belly and duck rillette. #01-01 The Pinnacle, 1 Cantonment Rd., www. facebook.com/EssenThePinnacle
Immanuel French Kitchen
Lau Pa Sat
The revamped and historic Lau Pa Sat is quite different now, but there are a few stalls worth mentioning for their upscale reincarnations. There’s now Japanese shabu-shabu and yakitori stall Azmaya Yakitori Teppan (Stall 55), which serves bentos and teppanyaki dishes; Craft Salad Bar, a build-your-own salad stall with unusual dressings like wasabi mayo and pesto; Delicious Cafe & Pasticceria (Stalls 25-27), a bakery that’s got a drool-worthy display that compares to any other CBD sweet shop; a pizza place aptly named Thin Crust Pizza (Stall 32-33) by Kevinbakery and even a Filipino lechon (spit-roasted pork) stall, Lutong Pinoy (Stall 54). 18 Raffles Quay, 6220-2138, www.laupasat.biz
Palette
Of course Capitol Piazza had to have an fancy food court amid all the high-end restaurants and cutesy cafes. While this place focuses mainly on traditional Singaporean dishes you’d find in any other food court (with higher prices, obviously), it’s got a couple of stalls that fall into the hip hawker category. First off, a River Valley Indonesian restaurant IndoChili has set up shop to offer more familystyle dishes like sate ayam. There’s also Delhi 6, an Indian stall doing northwest Frontier cuisine with hearty dishes of mutton biryani and tandoori murg gulnar. The most intriguing of the lot has to be 90 Gastro Bar, a stall offering cocktails and Asian-inspired desserts. #B1-20/27 Capitol Piazza, 13 Stamford Rd., 6348-3359, www.thepalette.com.sg
Alibabar The Hawker Bar
Salut Kopitiam
Probably the first hip hawker to open in Singapore, this one has tons of good food to choose from. There’s Stew Kuche (www.facebook.com/stewkuche), a German-style hawker with the usual suspects like sausage and pasta; Immanuel French Kitchen (www.facebook.com/immanuelfrenchkitchen) that serves duck confit and sous vide pork belly; Seasalt (www.facebook.com/seasaltfood), a seafood stall with fish and chips and Thai-style whole fried fish in delicious sweetsour gravy and newcomer Jack Ripper (www.facebook.com/ jackripperburger), a gourmet burger stall. #01-40 119 Bukit Merah Ln. 1
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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escapes
Holidays, hotels and insider travel news
DESTINATION GUIDE
Snow Problem Why go to Europe for your ski trip? Here, we weigh up the benefits of the region’s three biggest snow destinations: Japan, Korea and New Zealand. By Pinnyada Tanitnon
Niseko
Yongpyong
Treble Cone
NEW ZEALAND
JAPAN
SOUTH KOREA
Niseko
Yongpyong
Treble Cone
Ski season: Late Nov-early May with weather patterns that mimic those in Siberia, which makes for colder and longer winters than the rest of the country. Jun-Aug are the warmest months, while Dec-Mar are the coolest.
Ski season: Nov-early Apr, Jul and Aug are the resort’s hottest months, when temperatures can go up to 30 degrees Celsius, while Dec and Jan are when the temperature dips at its lowest.
Ski season: Late Jun-late Sep where the coldest months are Jun-Aug due to its location in the southern hemisphere.
Temperature and snow depth (during ski season): -11.5-8.9 degrees Celsius with average 1,400cm of snow.
Temperature and snow depth (during ski season): -10-11 degrees Celsius, with an average 250cm of snow.
Temperature and snow depth (during ski season): 0-13 degrees Celsius with an average 325cm of snow.
The crowd: Mostly tourists from neighboring countries such as Australia, China and Southeast Asia traveling in groups.
The crowd: Tourists, locals and expats alike. Mostly families with children of various ages.
The crowd: A handful of visitors during the weekdays, but usually draws a giant local crowd during the weekend
Luxury accomodation: Dragon Valley Resort Hotel (www.yongpyong.co.kr). This massive hotel features rooms that can sleep two to three people, with family-friendly facilities such as an indoor pool, outdoor pool, children’s pool, lazy river and even an indoor arcade. For those traveling without children, the hotel is also home to a spa, pool area and bowling alley. Starting at $381 per night in late Nov.
Splurge accommodation: Oakridge Resort Wanaka (www.oakridge.co.nz). This luxurious hotel is set on a mountain with remarkable views of the Southern Alps. All rooms come with comfortable and firm feather duvets, along with a classic, cozy layout. The resort also offers outdoor heated rock pools crafted from rock and alpine tussock, along with a well-equipped gym and a day spa. Starting at $147 per night.
Budget accomodation: The Setsumon (nisekoalpineaccommodation.com). This charming establishment is an easy five- to 10-minute commute to the slopes. Rooms feature private balconies, kitchens and separate living spaces. Starting at $210 per night in late Nov.
Budget accomodation: Youth Hostel (www.yongpyong. co.kr). Rooms that can accommodate from seven to 20 guests come with a shared shower and kitchenette on every floor. Guests can opt for either a private two-person room, or shared room with bunk beds. Starting at $13 per person.
Lift pass: $69 per eight hours
Lift pass: $86 per day
Budget accommodation: Lake Hawea Hotel (www. lakehawea.co.nz). Also a popular wedding destination, this recently-refurbished hotel offers a beautiful view of the large, peaceful and serene Lake Hawea and the surrounding mountains, along with spacious living space and comfortable beds lined with sheep-spun blankets. Starting at $27 per night.
Equipment rental: Starting at $47 per day
Equipment rental: Starting at $33 per day
Lift pass: $94 per day
Airfare: Thai Airways round-trip flights to Sapporo start at $672, with a stopover in Bangkok.
Airfare: AirAsia round-trip flights to Seoul start at $457, with a stopover in Kuala Lumpur.
Equipment rental: Starting at $42 per day
Why we like it: Tucked away in Hokkaido, this is arguably the best place to ski in Japan for skiers and snowboarders of all levels, thanks to the volume of snow and the variety of skiing types available. So whether you want to stick to the slopes or swoosh through perfect powder, Niseko can easily provide. It is also the largest ski resort in Japan.
Luxury accomodation: The Vale Niseko (www. thevaleniseko.com). This luxurious, modern hotel is located right on the ski slopes, eliminating transportation problems as you can easily just ski in and out from the hotel grounds. Apart from the open bathrooms that come with a panoramic view of the mountains, you will also be equipped with a private onsen, a heated outdoor pool and sauna. Starting at $201 per night in late Nov.
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Why we like it: Located just two hours from Seoul, this summertime golfer’s paradise transforms into the country’s largest ski resort in winter. There are 28 ski slopes that accommodate novice to advanced skiers with a variety of elevations. It’s a safe pick for anyone traveling in a group with mixed abilities.
Why we like it: Just a 90-minute drive from Queenstown, a district of New Zealand that’s home to the largest ski resorts, this mountain has varying elevations that are perfect for those traveling with friends of different abilities. Remarkable views of Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps make for a refreshing snowy getaway as you get your adrenaline rush. There are both off-piste and marked slopes and the upkeep of this resort is always impeccable.
Airfare: There are no direct flights but Jetstar gets you to Queenstown for $1,105 with a stopover in Melbourne.
astrology
Week of Oct 2 © 2015 Rob Brezsny
LIBRA (Sept 23-Oct 22): The 20th century’s most influential artist may have been Pablo Picasso. He created thousands of paintings, and was still churning them out when he was 91 years old. A journalist asked him which one was his favorite. “The next one,” he said. I suggest you adopt a similar attitude in the coming weeks, Libra. What you did in the past is irrelevant. You should neither depend on nor be weighed down by anything that has come before. For now, all that matters are the accomplishments and adventures that lie ahead of you.
SCORPIO (Oct 23-Nov 21): A windbreak is a line of stout trees or thick bushes that provides shelter from the wind. I think you need a metaphorical version: someone or something to shield you from a relentless force that has been putting pressure on you; a buffer zone or protected haven where you can take refuge from a stressful barrage that has been hampering your ability to act with clarity and grace. Do you know what you will have to do to get it? Here’s your battle cry: “I need sanctuary! I deserve sanctuary!” SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22-Dec 21): Your fellow Sagittarian Walt Disney accomplished a lot. He was a pioneer in the art of animation and made movies that won numerous Academy Awards. He built theme parks, created an entertainment empire, and amassed fantastic wealth. Why was he so successful? In part because he had high standards, worked hard and harbored an obsessive devotion to his quirky vision. If you aspire to cultivate any of those qualities, now is a favorable time to raise your mastery to the next level. Disney had one other trait you might consider working on: He liked to play the game of life by his own rules. For example, his favorite breakfast was doughnuts dipped in Scotch whisky. What would be your equivalent? CAPRICORN (Dec 22-Jan 19): October is Fix the Fundamentals Month. It will be a favorable time to substitute good habits for bad habits. You will attract lucky breaks and practical blessings as you work to transform overwrought compulsions into rigorous passions. You will thrive as you seek to discover the holy yearning that’s hidden at the root of devitalizing addictions. To get started, instigate free-wheeling experiments that will propel you out of your sticky rut and in the direction of a percolating groove. AQUARIUS (Jan 20-Feb 18): Have you made your travel plans yet? Have you plotted your escape? I hope you will hightail it to a festive playground where some of your inhibitions will shrink, or else journey to a holy spot where your spiritual yearnings will ripen. What would be even better is if you made a pilgrimage to a place that satisfied both of those agendas—filled up your senses with novel enticements and fed your hunger for transcendent insights. Off you go, Aquarius! Why aren’t you already on your way? If you can’t manage a real getaway in the near future, please at least stage a jailbreak for your imagination. PISCES (Feb 19-Mar 20): Pablo Neruda’s Book of Questions consists entirely of 316 questions. It’s one of those rare texts that makes no assertions and draws no conclusions. In this spirit and in honor of the sphinx-like phase you’re now passing through, I offer you six pertinent riddles: 1. What is the most important thing you have never done? 2. How could you play a joke on your fears? 3. Identify the people in your life who have made you real to yourself. 4. Name a good old thing you would have to give up in order to get a great new thing. 5. What’s the one feeling you want to feel more than any other in the next three years? 6. What inspires you to love? ARIES (Mar 21-Apr 19): The next seven weeks will NOT be a favorable time to fool around with psychic vampires and charismatic jerks. I recommend you avoid the following mistakes, as well: failing to protect the wounded areas of your psyche; demanding perfection from those you care about and trying to fulfill questionable desires that have led you astray in the past. Now I’ll name some positive actions you’d be wise to consider: hunting for skillful healers who can relieve your angst and aches; favoring the companionship of people who are empathetic and emotionally intelligent and getting educated about how to build the kind of intimacy you can thrive on.
TAURUS (Apr 20-May 20): You may have seen websites that offer practical tips on how to improve your mastery of life’s little details. They tell you how to de-clutter your home, or how to keep baked goods from going stale, or why you should shop for shoes at night to get the best fit. I recently come across a humorous site that provides the opposite: bad life tips. For instance, it suggests that you make job interviews less stressful by only applying for jobs you don’t want. Put your laptop in cold water to prevent overheating. To save time, brush your teeth while you eat. In the two sets of examples I’ve just given, it’s easy to tell the difference between which tips are trustworthy and which aren’t. But in the coming days, you might find it more challenging to distinguish between the good advice and bad advice you’ll receive. Be very discerning. GEMINI (May 21-Jun 20): On a windy afternoon last spring I was walking through a quiet neighborhood in Berkeley. In one yard there was a garden plot filled with the young green stems of as-yet unidentifiable plants. Anchored in their midst was a small handwritten sign. Its message seemed to be directed not at passers-by like me but at the sprouts themselves. “Grow faster, you little bastards!” the sign said—as if the blooming things might be bullied into ripening. I hope you’re smart enough not to make similar demands on yourself and those you care about, Gemini. It’s not even necessary. I suspect that everything in your life will just naturally grow with vigor in the coming weeks. CANCER (June 21-July 22): ”I am rooted, but I flow,” wrote Virginia Woolf in her novel The Waves. That paradoxical image reminds me of you right now. You are as grounded as a tree and as fluid as a river. Your foundation is deep and strong, even as you are resilient in your ability to adapt to changing circumstances. This is your birthright as a Cancerian! Enjoy and use the blessings it confers. (P.S. If for some strange reason you’re not experiencing an exquisite version of what I’ve described, there must be some obstacle you are mistakenly tolerating. Get rid of it.) LEO (Jul 23-Aug 22): Should I offer my congratulations? You have corralled a gorgeous mess of problems that are more interesting and provocative than everyone else’s. It’s unclear how long this odd good fortune will last, however. So I suggest you act decisively to take maximum advantage of the opportunities that your dilemmas have cracked open. If anyone can turn the heartache of misplaced energy into practical wisdom, you can. If anyone can harness chaos to drum up new assets, it’s you. Is it possible to be both cunning and conscientious, both strategic and ethical? For you right now, I think it is. VIRGO (Aug 23-Sept 22): Let’s say you have walked along the same path or driven down the same road a thousand times. Then, one day, as you repeat your familiar route, a certain object or scene snags your attention for the first time. Maybe it’s a small fountain or a statue of the Buddhist goddess Guanyin or a wall with graffiti that says “Crap happens, but so does magic.” It has always been there. You’ve been subconsciously aware of it. But at this moment, for unknown reasons, it finally arrives in your conscious mind. I believe this is an apt metaphor for your life in the next week. More than once, you will suddenly tune in to facts, situations, or influences that had previously been invisible to you. That’s a good thing! But it might initially bring a jolt.
Hot Hoods
Where to eat, drink and play in Singapore’s coolest heartlands Download the free interactive eBook at is.gd/SGhothoods and start exploring.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
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last word
Thum Ping Tjin Singaporean historian Thum Ping Tjin runs Project Southeast Asia at Oxford University. Back in July, he launched The History of Singapore (thehistoryofsingapore. com), a podcast that covers the period between 1819 to 1965. He also is, incidentally, the first Singaporean to ever swim the English Channel solo. Here, he talks to Mrigaa Sethi about that harrowing experience, about economic inequality in Singapore and the stories that shape the nation. I’m an academic. I’m not a social sort of person. I don’t go out there, I don’t meet people. I don’t really have my ear to the ground. I sit in archives and write and see patterns. The podcast is an attempt to help us understand why we are the way we are today. Many of the events that happened 100 years ago continue to impact Singapore today, and we don’t realize that. What does it mean to be Singaporean? It’s the same debate we had in the 1950s as it became clear that we were going to be an independent country. Are we a racial country, or a multiracial country? What is the meaning and purpose of our government? What is the purpose of becoming rich? Is it to become richer? Or is it to take care of the people among us who are unable to take care of themselves? These are very legitimate debates about our future that people had in the 50s and 60s. It’s a debate we really need to have in order to set a clear direction for Singapore. Right now we’re just muddling along. There are all these ideas that influence how we perceive Singapore today that are myths. By myths we don’t mean they are untrue, but that they are created stories. For example: in the 1950s, the mean income was 1,200 Malayan dollars a month, but the modal income and median incomes were the same as the poverty line, which was $100 Malayan dollars. The rich were so rich that they could pull up the median 12 times over. In effect, you had two Singapores: the beautiful, colonial area with massive buildings that you can still see, and the massively poor kampongs. Today, 10% of Singaporeans live on less than $1,000 a month. But we have more millionaires per capita—some estimates say as many as 10% of Singaporeans are
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2015
by Kathy Macleod
Sing dollar millionaires. So we are approaching a similar inequality that we had in the 1950s.
going to swim the channel solo and that’ll be the end of my swimming career.”
Another myth is the idea that Chinese people came to Southeast Asia and made it big. Very few people made it big. Most people just ended up working class or middle class like everyone else.
I learned that no Singaporean had ever done it. And it was our 40th anniversary, and I thought it would be great to do it for Singapore, for my dad and for charity.
But this myth influences how we think of race, how we think of poverty, and it feeds into all sorts of stereotypes about the role of the Chinese in Singapore. This year, the opposition all said, “We are not trying to unseed the PAP. PAP has a lot of good people and they do the right things.” I think a lot of people said, What does “Well, then why should we vote for you?”
It was the closest I ever came to dying, because it was so incredibly painful. You have to have a support boat. You can’t see France from the water, and the current is very strong, so you follow a boat.
it mean to be Singaporean?
The next election will be a national one, rather than ultralocal campaigns about individual constituencies. Singaporeans know we’re a small, overcrowded island. Everything is national.
Tharman should be the next PM. People respect him. This “We’re not ready for a non-Chinese Prime Minister” is nonsense. Who was our first Chief Minister? A Baghdadi Jew. I don’t think we do race the way Malaysia does race. It’s going to be less of an issue. People vote on competence. My online presence needs work, because I’m depicted as this swimmer, when really that was 10 years ago. I started swimming at a very early age, chiefly because my dad wanted me to be good at sport. He was a believer in “mens sana in corpore sano”—the Greek ideal of a healthy mind in a healthy body. At Oxford, every other year, there’s a race across the channel versus Cambridge—a six-man relay team. I took part in that and had a great time. And I thought, “I’m
Four hours in, we hit really bad weather. I felt like I was in a washing machine. By the fifth hour I was exhausted. I thought, “I’m not going to do this.”
But if you want to give up, you have to go and touch the boat. That’s your signal. So I said to myself, “If I can swim to the boat, it still means I can swim that far. So let’s just swim to where the boat is and reevaluate.” But by the time I swam there, the boat had moved on. So I said, “Can I still swim to the boat?” And my body said, “Yes.” It got to the point where I was saying to myself, “Can I take one more stroke? Yes, I can take one more stroke.” The expectation was that some point my body would say, “No, you cannot take one more stroke,” and I would start drowning and hope the boat would pick me up in time. The first time I realized that I was going to succeed was when I brought my hand down, and I hit the beach. Often you can’t see your goal or where you’re going. You’ve just got to go one stroke at a time and keep the faith. And the next thing you know, you bring your hand down and you’ve hit the beach and you’re there. That’s what keeps me going.