w w w. s g n o w. s g | 2 0 1 5 M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
Film fest galore!
Free Inside: Best new openings in Phuket, Chiang Mai, Krabi, Samui and Hua Hin
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #689 | NOVEMBER 6, 2015 since 1995
S IN • KRABI OPENING T NEW I • HUA HIN THE BES IANG MA UI OK • CH UKET • SAM BANGK • PH
CELEBRATING 20 YEARS
10/16/15
2:12 PM
dd 1
_HK.in
Hotspot2015
what’s on what’s new what matters
Peter Steinhauer’s intriguing photographs of numbered HDB facades are on display at Red Sea Gallery starting Nov 18. See PHOTOGRAPHY , page 8, for an interview.
EXPLORING
DINING
EVENTS
TRAVEL
Local Walking Tours
Rediscovering Little India
Singapore Writers Festival
Arty South Korea
w w w. s g n o w. s g | 2 0 1 5 M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #689 | NOV 6, 2015 since 1995
CELEBRATING 20 YEARS
INSERT ART HERE
Take Art Home 12 – 15 November 2015 F1 Pit Building 1 Republic Boulevard
Contemporary art. $100 - $10,000 80 galleries. 600 artists affordableartfair.com/Singapore AAFSG | AFFORDABLEARTFAIRSG
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
page 3
Channel the muse
16 neighborhoods
Up and Coming Hoods 8 events
10 photography
Hermes Leather Forever Exhibition
Capturing Singapore’s HDB Blocks
A 14-Step Guide to Becoming a Writer in Singapore 1. Sort out your priorities. Who needs their own HDB when you’ve got a Singapore Literature Prize on the horizon. 2. Spend what little money you have on a vintage typewriter.
10 outings
12 film
3. Smile and nod when someone asks if you’re a freelancer. Then go home and write a poem about it.
Mystica
The Singapore International Film Festival
4. When your dad expresses concerns about your financial future, write a poem about it.
18 exploring
20 dining
Fun Walking Tours
Little India Delights
5. When your boss catches you rehearsing your slam masterpiece at work, write a poem about it. 6. Choose your pet themes—some combination of nostalgia, growing up in an HDB, your mom, your dad, your exboyfriend, having no culture, the gahmen, the role of Singlish in your life.
21 travel
22 interview
7. Hang around the Singapore Writers Festival, clutching the latest Haruki Murakami novel.
Culture in South Korea
Hindi Radio DJ Rohini Ramnathan
8. Read your two best poems at Canvas. Then read them again at Artistry two weeks later. 9. Sign up for NaNoWriMo every year and write a daily update on your novel-writing exploits on Facebook.
Who's in charge? Publisher & General Manager Ric Stockfis countrymanager@asia-city.com.sg
Content Sales & Custom Media Content Director Clara Lim customcontent@asia-city.com.sg
Editorial Managing Editor Mrigaa Sethi editor@asia-city.com.sg
Advertising Director, Business Development Intan Agustina advertising@asia-city.com.sg
Features Editor Chelsia Tan Digital News Reporter Xie Shi Min Branded Content Writer Prabhu Silvam Design Associate Art Director Carmen Louise Ho Senior Designer Fishy Toh Designer Celeste Chooi
Senior Manager, Media & Marketing Shernan Plameras Executives, Media & Marketing Chan Xin Yee, Lee Wee Keong Media Coordinator Sharon Leong
Marketing Marketing Manager Silver Adrienna Ng marketing@asia-city.com.sg
10. Get published by Math Paper Press.
Finance finance@asia-city.com.sg
12. Apply for a grant from the NAC.
Group Directors Chief Executive Officer Gretchen Worth gworth@asia‑city.co.th
11. Or just self-publish instead.
13. Pretend to be surprised when you get it. 14. Spend it all on Moleskines and LAMY pens.
Group Digital Director Greg Duncan gduncan@asia‑city.com.sg On the cover Peter Steinhauer
Who are we?
Published every two weeks (with daily updates at sgnow.sg), SG (previously I-S) delivers honest, independent and irreverent coverage of the Singapore lifestyle scene. We’ve been recommending what to do and where to go here for 20 years—and we’ve never been more excited about the city than we are right now.
Where to find us! Bangkok Asia City Media Group 9/F, Room A, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand Tel: 66-2-624 9696 Fax: 66-2-237 5656 bkmagazine@asia‑city.co.th
The Asia City Media Group
Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07‑02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 Fax: 65‑6323‑2779 contact@asia-city.com.sg
Distributed by
Awesome events, cool new places, the very best of the next two weeks
High-end, hawker and everything inbetween: news on the drink and dining scene
Hot topics, local initiatives and ideas for making Singapore even better
Because Singapore is only so big: the best deals and destinations around Asia
Fashion, fitness, tech and more SG Magazine is published 24 times a year by Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd., 211 Henderson Road, #07‑02, Singapore 159552. Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 • Fax: 65‑6323‑2779. Copyright ©2015 Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. The titles “SG Magazine”, “I-S Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of SG Magazine and I-S Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. SG Magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Contact the Publisher for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in SG Magazine must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by KHL Printing Co. Pte. Ltd., 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968. ISSN 0218‑8872 MCI (P) 174/12/2014
free ebook of every issue
issuu.com/sg_magazine
4
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
daily updates on news and events
sgnow.sg
hot new spots, exciting giveaways
facebook.com/sgnow.sg
last word Irreverent interviews with people who make Singapore great
We hope you like what you see: email us at editorial@asia-city.com.sg to let us know how we’re doing.
latest news and trends
@sg_now
see what we’re up to
@sg_now
Start your day with the latest lifestyle news, direct to your inbox.
daily
Be the first to hear about brand new openings, exciting events and news you actually care about • Sent Mon-Fri before 9am • Optimized for your phone • Share straight to social media • 100% free
Sign up now at is.gd/sgdaily
up front
Singapore’s latest news, numbers and dramas at a glance
Our biweekly study of the city’s burgeoning (and dying) trends
NUMEROLOGY
$37 million
Nicolas Lannuzel
HOT OR NOT
Hot: Coney Island
Amount of church funds City Harvest Church founder Kong Hee spent on wife Ho Yeow Sun’s music career.
Not: The Haze, Again
Off-shore attraction Coney Island features relatively untouched vegetation, a diversity of wildlife including nationally-threatened birds like the spotted wood owl; and even a single Brahman bull. Tours by NParks are already fully booked, and here’s hoping the continuing haze situation (predicted to last till the new year) won’t put a dampener on these plans.
$10 million
Savio Sebastian
Estimated legal costs for the City Harvest trial.
Hot: Ulu Dining Places
$16,149
Not: Getting There
Hot: Circular Road
Jnzl
Bernard Tey
Just recently, zi char eatery Third Place at Tuas 7 brought revamped versions of local favorites such as salted egg cheese crab and red grouper cooked in Nyonya-style to the industrial estate. And located along the coast of Pulau Ubin, Smith Marine serves zi char dishes with freshly-caught seafood such as chili crab, La La bee hoon and steamed sea bass. They’re not exactly a hop and skip away from civilization, but we hope the food is worth the trip.
23 Number of patients tested positive for Hepatitis C at Singapore General Hospital, allegedly due to a lapse in hospital protocol.
Not: Sleaze
Boat Quay’s bid to shed its KTV image continues to go strong, with newer tenants like +39 Gelato Bar and craft beer hangout Draft and Craft. In a report by The Straits Times (Oct 21), the Circular Road Committee, comprising managers, directors and consultants from F&B outfits in the area, announced more development plans for the precinct. This comes after the URA’s announcement of next year’s $5-million upgrading project for the party strip.
WE
Total amount defunct Sim Lim Square electronics shop Mobile Air cheated customers of— four former employees have been sentenced to between four and 14 months jail.
17 North-South and East-West MRT stations to be upgraded by 2018. Sources: The Straits Times, The New Paper
SG
NEWS FROM SGNOW.SG
Your next Indonesian beach getaway is 25 mins away from HarbourFront Forget Batam and Bintan (ok, not really), because by next year, you could be having your next Indonesian beach jaunt just 16km away from Funtasy Island Sentosa Cove. The upcoming and rather bizarrely named Funtasy Island (aka Pulau Munis), by the Louvre Hotel Group and its Golden Tulip brand, purports to be the “world’s largest eco theme park”, with 328 hectares of beaches across six little islands, 400 villas, a 200-room condotel and a 230-suite hotel. There are also plans for a theme park, a spa and a beach club, more underwater activities and perhaps a cave diving training center, too. The resort Website of the Year MPAS 2015 will be open sometime in 2016.
S I N G A P O R E ’ S H OTT E ST L I F E ST Y L E N E W S
OB INDEX OCT
11
Charting the ups and downs of Singapore's openness, tolerance and freedom of expression
A breast-cancer awareness campaign by taxi-booking app GrabTaxi has drawn flak from cancer survivors and activist groups here. The slogan, “Love Boobs? So does cancer,” was reported to have been sent as notifications to customers and was also seen on cars running the GrabCar services. Jolene Tan, senior manager for programmes and communications at the Association of Women for Action and Research (AWARE) was quoted by The Straits Times as saying, “Reducing women’s value to their breasts is especially insensitive as some women need mastectomies to survive breast cancer” In a similar voice, SMU associate professor of marketing Seshan Ramaswami said that “the specific words used, referring to breasts as boobs, comparing presumably men’s love for looking at or touching breasts with cancer, and the poor taste pun with Grabit were also objectionable.”
Get this issue to go.
This week you will mainly love your city for its...
MRT contingency plans The LTA will offer free bus rides to passengers affected by any future network-wide rail disruption, including transiting on both private and public buses. Commuters can also look forward to a mobile phone app, which provides updates on affected and alternative routes and which bus stops to go to by year-end. These new measures might not take away the pain of commuting during a disruption, but it will probably make getting to work slightly easier.
Free eBook download from issuu.com/sg_magazine (or sign up at sgnow.sg/newsletters to never miss an issue)
You can now pick up SG Magazine at these cool venues
Club Meatballs
Project Cycle Store
Jekyll and Hyde
China Square Central, #01-35 www.clubmeatballs.com
55 Tiong Bahru Road, #01-53 www.cycleprojectstore.com
49 Tras Street 49tras.st
Or see every venue (200 of them!) at sgnow.sg/distribution 6
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
ADVERTORIAL
Meadow Music
5 great reasons why you should head to Laneway 2016. GDJYB
Cashew Chemists
Laneway Festival 2015
T
he mother of all Singapore music festivals is back in just two months. If you’re still on the fence about going (you really shouldn’t be), here are some exciting reasons to send you over the edge.
1
It’s a chance to catch the hot indie acts of the moment
Ever since the annual music festival made its debut in Singapore back in 2011, it has consistently delivered acclaimed, eclectic line-ups, comprising the big left-of-basic acts of the day, from Japandroids in 2013 to Courtney Barnett earlier this year. Well, 2016 is no different, with lots of exciting acts that your less indie-inclined friends will need schooling on. Get excited for Canadian electro-pop outfits Grimes and Purity Ring, dreamy Baltimore duo Beach House, child prodigy producer Flume (ok, he’s 23, but still), among 18 others.
2
It’s not just about the music
3 Purity Ring
There’s a killer Asian contingent Local representation will continue to be strong at Laneway 2016. Last year, there was .gif and Hanging up the Moon. This year, from Singapore, there’s Southern rock-inspired Cashew Chemists, electro quintet R!ot in Magenta and producer Intriguant. Asian indie fans should also be excited about Hong Kong’s surreal, darklyuplifting girl band GDJYB and Manila indie rock band CHEATS.
4
Laneway Festival 2015
It’s another excuse for a staycation
Pair an all-day music festival and a fancy hotel stay, and you can pretend you’re on a proper vacation. Laneway is teaming up with a bunch of hotels around town for festival packages. Most exciting are the two-night stay at Carlton Hotel Singapore and the two-night stay at Big Hotel Singapore, both of which come with breakfast, free Wi-Fi and two festival tickets.
You might not know this but there’s a lot more to spending a day at Laneway than just back-to-back concerts. In 2015, for example, in between shows, folks got tattoos at the Sailor Jerry’s booth, haircuts, took selfies at the Laneway Festival Dr. Martens photo booths, played with a giant Jenga 2015 #FOMO set—and of course, ate delicious food and drank Back for its sixth year, it’s safe to say that everything from beer to tequila. Laneway has always been Laneway is a major mainstay on the annual big on fashion, lifestyle and retail so expect fun partnerships music festival calendar. In January, a whopping 13,000 people next year, too. filled the grounds at The Meadow at Gardens by the Bay, and if you weren’t one of them, time to fix that this year. Need further incentive? Tickets sold out for the first time, and there’s a good chance that might happen again. To avoid feeling left out, don’t wait till January to buy yours.
Intriguant
Grimes
5
CHEATS
Laneway 2016 takes place Jan 30, 2016 at The Meadow at Gardens by the Bay. Tickets are $180 and are on sale now through Sistic. For more information, head to singapore. lanewayfestival.com
CHVRCHES BROUGHT TO YOU BY
Flume FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
7
now
The essential guide to what’s on in Singapore Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
THROUGH
THROUGH
Nov 28
Dec 13
ART Hermes Leather Forever Exhibition
French fashion label Hermes’ is exhibiting the history of their bespoke leather creations from past to present. Guests will get to tinker with interactive installations, view sessions with craftsmen from their Parisian workshops and see curios that have never been unveiled before. Through Dec 13, 10am. ArtScience Museum, Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 66888826. www.hermes.com.
WALKS Architectural Heritage Awards
In conjunction with the Architectural Heritage Awards, the Urban Redevelopment Authority has organized a total of 26 guided walking tours of the city’s historical buildings, including Khadijah Mosque and the Nagore Dragrah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre, for an insight into our heritage. Through Nov 28. www. eventbrite.sg/o/urban-redevelopment-authority-7497466443. Free.
SAT
FILM Freedom Film Festival 2015
SAT
Nov 14
Nov 14
This annual event is back with investigative films and documentaries; highlights include 1987: Untracing the Conspiracy, which interviews the 22 people who were arrested by the Singapore Internal Security Act (ISA) in 1987, and Portraits of Mosquito Press, where a group of editors set up their own paper in retaliation to Ferdinand Marcos’ dictatorial regime, which prevents the freedom of press. Nov 14-15, 11:45am. The Projector, 5/F Golden Mile Tower, 6001 Beach Rd., www.facebook.com/events/521353408014704/.
EXHIBITION The Large Hadron Collider Exhibition
The latest exhibition at the museum is a virtual reality exhibit of the Large Hadron Collider at CERN. Visitors get a glimpse of what happens behind the underground facility’s closed doors and engage in this multisensory showcase which explores the effects of the collision of two protons and the discovery of The God Particle. Through Feb 14. ArtScience Museum, Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 6688-8826. $10-15. www.marinabaysands.com/museum.
SAT
THU
THROUGH
Nov 7
Nov 12
Nov 15
Official Media
PARTIES Altimate Wonderland
Party series Sho Stomper returns with Altimate Wonderland, a night inspired by the Lewis Carroll fantasy classic, Alice in Wonderland. The event features highvoltage dance performances with top DJs and this time, spin maestros Rattle and Tang are taking over with hip hop and R&B grooves. Nov 7, 10pm. Altimate 61/F One Raffles Place, 1 Raffles Place, 64380410, www.1-altitude.com. From $30.
8
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
ART The Affordable Art Fair
MUSICAL Ghost The Musical
This musical from the award-winning film of the same name is adapted for the stage by Bruce Joel Rubin and directed by Matthew Warchus. Just in case you’re not familiar with the movie, it centers on the spirit of a murdered man who returns to earth to protect his lover from harm. Through Nov 15, 1pm, 2pm, 6pm, 7:30pm. Sands Theater, Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Ave., 6688-8868. $85-175 from SISTIC. entertainment.marinabaysands.com/events/ghost1115.
The Affordable Art Fair returns to the masses at the F1 Pit Building with 85 galleries representing 600 artists from Southeast Asia and Europe. As per past editions, these works will be priced between $100-$10,000, with a under $1,000 wall. Nov 12-15. F1 Pit Building, 1 Republic Blvd., www.affordableartfair. com. $15-18
now PHOTOGRAPHY Peter Steinhauer
MUSIC
concerts Richard Marx Adult contemporary legend Richard Marx will be returning to Singapore for a live solo performance at The Star. Look out for hits like “Right Here Waiting”, “Endless Summer Nights”, and “Now and Forever”. Nov 9, 8pm. The Star Performing Arts Centre, 1 Vista Exchange Green., 6636-0055, www.thestar.sg. $88.00168.00 from Sistic.
Richard Marx
ABA Productions
SKECHERS Sundown Festival Celebrating Asian music and culture, watch showcases from Asian artistes such as Epik High (South Korea), Inkt (Japan), and local band Caracal, among a line-up of other regional musicans from Thailand, Indonesia and Taiwan. Nov 21, 4pm. Marina Promenade, F1 tracks behind Singapore Flyer, www.sundownfestival.com.sg. $88-118 from Peatix.
Peter Steinhauer
The American photographer lived in Hong Kong, Singapore and Vietnam since 1993, taking striking images of buildings and nature. His series on Singapore’s numbered HDBs caught our eye and one of them is on this issue’s cover. Here he tells us about the process of putting the collection together. What’s your favorite building in Singapore? My favorite building is an old shop house on the corner of Jalan Besar and Veerasamy Road—painted a light pastel blue, accented with emerald green small square tiles with pink roses and with an emerald green roof trim and terracotta tiles. The detailing of the glass-tiled windowed doors and the ornate carvings are something that I look at every time I pass it. No one makes houses like this any longer. Why did HDBs interest you more than some of the more iconic Singapore buildings? I am not at all into the new modern buildings of Singapore. They are the same everywhere world-wide. They serve business function and show modernism, but say nothing about where Singapore has come from. The colonial structures are restored but need that in order to survive and to be up to code and functional. HDB blocks and their large numbers are what interested me. That is what this project is about. Other than HDBs, what were some of your favorite subjects in Singapore? I like driving around the west coast and Tuas in the ship building area. This is not what people would imagine as Singapore but ironically it is an important part of it. Food is a favorite subject of mine in Singapore—not photographing it, though, but eating it!
Your exhibition will also feature some dramatic images you took in Hong Kong. Tell us about those. These images are part of my Cocoons project. The structures are encased in bamboo scaffolding, then the colored material is draped around the bamboo to stop debris and other things from falling onto the streets below. I first started the interest in these on my first trip to Hong Kong in 1994. Outside of the old Kai Tak airport, I saw this massive building across the street and it was covered with bamboo and yellow material. I thought it was the environmental artist Christo and his wife Jean Claude wrapping buildings—as is their art—in Hong Kong. I quickly realized, after seeing others on the way to my hotel, that this was a construction process. I found them extremely interesting as they look like giant colored wrapped packages within a mono chromatic, dense concrete urban environment. What’s the craziest thing you did for a shot? I didn’t know that roof access in Singapore is not allowed. I was used to it being allowed in Hong Kong where by law all roofs must be unlocked and accessible for safety reasons. I was in a block on Tanjong Pagar and the roof was open with a ladder coming out of it. I went up and was walking around looking for a view to photograph from. An engineer was climbing back down the ladder and just happened to see me and called me over to him. Had he not seen me, I would have been locked on the roof and ironically, I didn’t have my mobile with me. I would have been in quite a predicament had that happened.
Cirque du Soleil: Totem
A Clockwork Orange
STAGE
dance MAGNETA! A Choreographic showcase in Flamenco This is a choreographic showcase featuring works by emerging dance makers. These numbers range from traditional to theatrical presentations of the Spanish Flamenco dance. Nov 13-14, 8pm. Goodman Arts Centre Black Box, #01-53 Block M, 90 Goodman Rd.,www. flamencosinfronteras.com.sg. $20-30 from Peatix. Cirque du Soleil : Totem Cirque du Soleil returns with another colorful show featuring 46 circus artists, actors, musicians and singers from 17 countries performing an impressive collection of jaw-dropping acrobatic moves. Displaying an array of athleticism, theatrics, lavish costume designs and cutting edge digital effects, Totem explores the story of the human evolution. Through Nov 22, 12pm. Field beside Bayfront MRT (Exit A), 11 Bayfront Ave.. $98-328 from SISTIC.
theater Official Media A Clockwork Orange Anthony Burgess’ landmark novel A Clockwork Orange is turned into a stage show after much back-and-forth with the ratings board. Revolving around protaganist
Alex DeLarge, who is caught and jailed by the police, he then volunteers to undergo aversion therapy in order to solve society’s crime issues. However, things don’t go according to the plan. Through Nov 7, 8pm; Nov 8, 7pm. Esplanade Theatre Studio, 1 Esplanade Dr., 6828-8377. $68-128. www.aba-productions.com. The Spirits Play A collaboration between two Asian theater groups from Japan and Hong Kong, this play the revolves around Japanese spirits reflects on the events of WWII and its aftermath. Through Nov 15, 3pm. Black Box, Drama Centre, #05-01 National Library Building, 100 Victoria St., 6837-8400. $35 from SISTIC.
musicals Seussical the Musical Based on the works of Dr. Seuss, this musical features elements from popular books like Horton Hears a Who, Green Eggs and Ham and The Cat in the Hat. Conceived by Tony Award winners Stephen Flaherty, Lynn Ahrens and Eric Idle, audiences can expect uplifting dance numbers, colorful costumes and irreverent dialogue. Nov 6, 5pm; Nov 7-8, 11am, 3pm. Esplanade Theatre, 1 Esplanade Dr., 6828-8377. $58-108 from SISTIC.
Peter Steinhauer’s work from the Number Blocks and Cocoon series will be on show at RedSea Gallery (#01-10 Dempsey Hill, 6732-6711, www.redseagallery.com) Nov 18-Dec 31. MRIGAA SETHI
Cover Up SG Magazine covers celebrate local artists, photographers and illustrators and their remarkable depictions of Singapore. They look so good, we’ve even started hanging them on our walls.
To suggest someone we should feature or to partner with us on this initiative, email editor@asia-city.com.sg
10
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
St Jerome’s Laneway Festival 2016
Mystica
BOOK AHEAD
The Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Dr., 6420-6841, www. singaporelanewayfestival.com. $180 from Sistic. Tickets cost $180 here.
St Jerome’s Laneway Official Lifestyle Partner Festival 2016 The much-loved Laneway Festival is back next year with the exciting lineup comprising dream pop duo Beach House, award-winning Scottish electronic band CHVRCHES and majestic electro producer Flume, probably best known for his collab “The Greatest View” with Isabella Manfredi. Jan 30 2016. Gardens By
Official Lifestyle Media Mystica The Night Safari transforms into an enigmatic playground with stunning lights and mesmerizing installations, featuring intriguing flora and fauna from the imaginative, fantasy world of Mystica. Nov 27-28; Dec 4, 5, 11 and 12. 80 Mandai Lake Rd., www. nightsafari.com.sg. $42 for adults.
VOTE & WIN 20 YEARS
It’s that time of the year when we put our opinions aside and let you do the talking. A chance for you, our loyal readers, to tell us which you think are the most interesting, innovative and downright awesome individuals, venues, products and services in Singapore.
Awes prizes ome to b won! e
It only takes a few minutes to complete the questionnaire and you stand a chance to win some fabulous prizes including weekend staycations at some top hotels, gym memberships, weekend champagne brunch and more. So take a look at some of the nominees (these are just to get you started, you can vote for whoever you like) and make your vote count. Awards include: Best cocktail bar, best new restaurant, best hotel, best music festival and many more!
Vote now at sgnow.sg/rca PLATINUM PRIZE Value d at $1,05 0
PARKROYAL on Pickering, a PARKROYAL Collection hotel A 3D2N weekend stay in a Superior Room inclusive of breakfast for two
GOLD PRIZES
SILVER PRIZES Value d at $874
True Yoga A month of True Yoga and True Fitness memberships for you and a friend
Value d at $450
Value d at $443
Value d at $765
MACA Tipple pairing dinner experience for two
Colony Vintage champagne brunch on Sunday for two
Naumi Hotel A 2D1N weekend stay in a Habitat Room inclusive of breakfast for two Value d at $300
Voting closes Nov 9. Winners will be contacted by SG Staff and announced on SG Facebook. All prizes must be claimed within 30 days.
LeVeL33 Craft-brewery dining experience
now FILM What to catch at the Singapore International Film Festival
The Invitation
Hello Kitty Go Around
HAPPENINGS
parties Dia De Muertos Singapore Celebrate the Mexican Day of the Dead at the biggest festival of its kind in Asia, Dia De Muertos. Enjoy art and music performed by both Mexican and local artists and musicians, and savor gourmet Mexican cuisine as well. Nov 7, 7pm. Emily Hill, 11 Upper Wilkie Rd., 6337-4204. The Thin Yellow Line
Bugis Street Redux
The Singapore International Film Festival (Nov 26-Dec 6) is back for a second year in a row (after a hiatus in the recent past), with 146 feature and short films selected from over 1,400 submissions. Can’t watch them all? Here are some highlights you might not want to miss. 1. Mexican cinema takes the spotlight The Mexicans have been sweeping accolades in Hollywood, with directors Alfonso Cuaron (Gravity) and Alejandro Gonzalez Inarritu (Birdman) winning Oscars in 2014 and 2015 respectively. This year’s SGIFF reflects that with its line-up of works such as director Celso Garcia’s debut feature The Thin Yellow Line, a collaboration with Guillermo Del Toro (Pan’s Labyrinth). Another must-watch, The Obscure Spring by Ernesto Contreras was a hit at Sundance, the Tokyo International Film Festival and the 60th Cannes Film Festival. 2. Local classics make a comeback Mee Pok Man, happening on Nov 29, 7:00pm, is based on a short story by local auteur Damien Sin; this dysfunctional love story follows a noodle hawker’s obsession with a prostitute. And for an uninhibited peek into the transgender community of Bugis Street in the ‘60’s, catch Hong Kong-based director Yonfan’s Bugis Street Redux on Nov 28 at 7:00pm. 3. There’s something for horror fans too Ludo, a thriller by Kolkatan filmmakers Qaushiq Mukherjee and Rajarshi Basu might be a little hard to stomach, even for hardened viewers. It tells the story of a group of youths playing a game of Ludo with a creepy old couple, after which all hell breaks loose. Other heartpumping screenings include Violator by Filipino
director Dodo Dayao, about the weird and foreboding happenings in a down-and-out city; Demon by Polish director Marcin Wrona, which shows the horrors faced by guests at a Polish wedding when a “dybbuk” possesses the groom and The Invitation by Karyn Kusama (Jennifer’s Body) a tale of how paranoia and suspicion runs rampant at a seemingly innocuous dinner party. 4. And if you’re game, a dose of avant garde Pushing the boundaries of conventional film making are screenings such as Canadian film maker Guy Maddin’s The Forbidden Room, which showcases disjointed sequences playing out in an amnesiac’s mind, including but not limited to a submarine crew, a vicious gang of forest bandits and a birthday penthouse. Videophilia (And Other Viral Syndromes) is another head scratcher by director Juan Daniel F. Molero, who mashes Internet lingo, animated gifs and social media (how very current) in a movie about a group of bored Peruvian teenagers. There’s sex, drugs, alcohol, parties and mysticism. 5. Interesting films about marginalized communities We’re super excited about documentary A Sinner in Mecca by gay Indian director Parvez Sharma (A Jihad for Love), which chronicles his pilgrimage in a story about faith and sexuality. In Songs My Brothers Taught Me, by Chinese filmmaker Chloe Zhao, contemporary life in America’s Pine Ridge Indian Reservation takes center stage. For an in-depth look into China’s cotton industry, director Zhou Hao tracks the lives of laborers through cotton fields, clothing factories and dormitories in Cotton.
literary Official Lifestyle Media Singapore Writers Festival This edition of the festival features more than 89 international writers and over 300 events. If all the talks, readings, discussions and dialogues have you
Singapore Writers Festival exhausted, there are also film screenings and concerts by local bands to attend. Expect big names like Booker prize nominee Deborah Levy and Sophie Hannah, as well as local names like controversial graphic novelist Sonny Liew and playwright Eleanor Wong. Through Nov 8, 8am. www.singaporewritersfestival.com. $20. Hello Kitty Go Around Hello Kitty fans can look forward to a merry-go-round, an interactive game carnival and dance performances. Relive your childhood at the Party Hall and the Ferris Wheel, and kick it old school by sending a letter at the Post Office. There’s a Hello Kitty Tote Bag workshop and lots of merchandise at the gift store to add to your Hello Kitty memorabilia collection Through Nov 10, 10am. The Coliseum, Resorts World Sentosa, 8 Sentosa Gateway, 6577-8888. $45-59 from SISTIC.
NIGHTLIFE
Charlie Lim
Dru Chen Trio Soul artist Dru Chen, together with local singersongwriter Charlie Lim, and Eun Taek Kim of Charlie Lim & The Mothership will perform at The Powder Room. The setlist includes covers by Jeff Buckley, D’Angelo and Maxwell as well as some of their own songs. Nov 18-Oct 18, 9pm. The Black Swan, The Quadrant, 19 Cecil St., 8181-3305, www. facebook.com/thepowderroomsg. Andy Hart Old-School Funk Melbourne musician Andy Hart will be presenting his tropical tunes and low slung house grooves. Nov 14, 8pm. Overeasy Bar & Diner, #01-06 One Fullerton, 1 Fullerton Rd., 6423-0701, www.facebook.com/OverEasySG.
Andy Hart
Radiostar Local DJs YA5TH, Suren and Styluxtakut take over CE LA VI with dance, club and top 40 hits every Saturday through Nov 29, 9pm. CE LA VI Skybar, 57/F Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, 1 Bayfront Ave.,6688-7688. $38.
Tickets to each screening go from $25 for opening films, $15 for special presentation films and $12 for all other films at Sistic. For a full list of screenings, head to www.sgiff. com. CHELSIA TAN
FOOD & DRINK $100 Gourmet This month, Michelin-starred guest chef Rolf Fliegauf pairs up with local restaurants Mitzo and The Waterfall. Through Nov 14. Various venues, www.100gourmet.com. $100-180
Diner En Blanc
12
Diner En Blanc This invitation-only picnic is held at a secret location every year and it has been postponed later this month due to the haze. For those without invites, have someone you know give you an e-recommendation, or register to be on their waiting list for a fee of $50. Nov 21. www. singapore.dinerenblanc.info/register.
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
19th German Film Festival
FILM 19th German Film Festival This festival features flicks that are based on the notion of identity, friendship and family affairs. There are 22 films to choose from, including eight that pay tribute to director Rainer Werner Fassbinder. Through Nov 15, 1pm. The Projector, 5/F Golden Mile Tower, 6001 Beach Rd., www.goethe.de. $13.
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay Part 2 The conclusion to the franchise which sees heroine Katniss Everdeen (Jennifer Lawrence) and District 13 engage in an all-out revolution against the autocratic Capitol. Opens Nov 19 He Named Me Malala This documentary about Pakistani female activist Malala Yousafzai follows her journey from being attacked by Taliban gunmen for championing education for girls in her native Swat Valley in Pakistan, to her speech to the United Nations. Opens Nov 12
TE_D11521_Food Board (254mm (w) x 170mm (h))_1.2p.indd 1
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015 SG MAGAZINE 13pm 26/10/15 5:50
now ART
NEWS FROM SGNOW.SG
BENNY ONG Art Day Out at Gillman Barracks Veteran fashion designer-turned-artist Benny Ong, will showcase his recent works at Gillman Barracks. His prints, “Queen,” “Buddha in the City of London,” and “Peranakan” explore the boundaries of art, design and couture. Nov 6, 5pm; Nov 7, 8, noon. Gillman Barracks, 9 Lock Rd., www.theoartspro.com. Reverse Exotic Turkish artist Tara Lale’s solo exhibition coincides with Gillman Barracks’ third anniversary and shows provocative photographic works that illustrate the realities of emotion and self-representation. Through Nov 7, 11am. Yavuz Gallery, #02-23 Gillman Barracks, 9 Lock Rd., 6734-3262. www.yavuzgallery.com. Free.
Congrats, you now know about Singapore’s secret new parking lot bar
Reverse Exotic
CRUISE - Group show featuring Hilary Schwartz, Khairullah Rahim and Simon Ng The work of Hilary Schwartz, Khairullah Rahim and Simon Ng will look at queer desire in spaces through art. Their work will look at how anonymity and community come together in these spaces. Nov 7, 7pm; Nov 14-15, 11am. Shophouse 5, 5 Lorong 24A Geylang, 6338-1962. www.chanhampegalleries.com. Balik Rumah Australian-Peranakan artist Jennifer Lim will showcase her work based on cross-cultural influences at the Ludo Gallery. Through Nov 15, 11am. Ludo Gallery, #02-05 261 Waterloo Centre, Waterloo St., 6337-1727, www. ludo.gallery.
The Great Escape
Nightscape 2050
Nightscape 2050 Travelling Exhibition Hailing from Berlin, the Light Planners Associates (LPA) is in town to explore how light affects people in cities. There will be public talks, and workshops. Through Nov 21, 3pm. National Design Centre, 111 Middle Rd. Tomas Saraceno Exhibition Argentinian artist Tomas Saraceno transforms the gallery space of the Centre for Contemporary Art into a labyrinth-like installation which comes replete with spider webs and various symbols drawn from architecture and astrology. Through Dec 20, 12pm. Gillman Barracks, 9 Lock Rd. Free.
Next time you finish a movie at The Projector, don’t just run off to supper at Golden Mile. Do this instead: head toward the bathroom, take the side door, cut across the parking lot and walk until you see the glowing warm lights and the pleasant murmurs of chillness. Comprising the space of about 12 parking spaces is The Great Escape. Its neon sign is pretty hard to miss, but the place is so on the down low it doesn’t even have a Facebook page (aha! We found it!). The vibe is kind of like Lepark, casual with wooden benches and colorful furnishings, great for outings and dates. Run by the same folks who do Golden Bar (ie the concession stand at The Projector), the place serves classic drinks like gin and tonics and a selection of Japanese craft beers. There’s also a view of the Singapore Flyer and Gardens By The Bay. Website of the Year MPAS 2015
Tomas Saraceno
Make every meal count
S I N G A P O R E ’ S H OTT E ST L I F E ST Y L E N E W S
s g n o w . s g
SINGAP
ORE
RESTAURAN GUIDE
www.toptables.sg 14
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
w w w.
topta
bles.s
g
T
2016
Holiday Guide Singapore’s definitive guide to eating, partying and gift-giving this Christmas and New Year
Ou Dec t in emb er
+
Ad closing: Tue Nov 17
All guides go out to our network of 200 high-traffic locations across the island, and are available for free digital download.
Contact us now for special advertising discounts— Call 6323-2512 or email sales@asia-city.com.sg.
www.sgnow.sg
Download our free guide to the best new openings in Phuket, Chiang Mai, Krabi, Samui and Hua Hin.
WHERE Thailand Hot Spots 2015 rounds up the very best of what’s new from across the kingdom.
Download WHERE Thailand Hot Spots 2015 for a trip to Thailand that you won’t get from regular guidebooks.
bit.ly/wherehotspots2015 THE BEST NEW OPENINGS IN BANGKOK • CHIANG MAI • HUA HIN • KRABI • PHUKET • SAMUI
Hotspot2015_HK.indd 1
10/16/15 2:12 PM
15_AMEX_Plat_ChillaxAd_125x343mm_R1_FA.indd 1
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015 SG MAGAZINE 15pm 26/10/15 3:11
Image Courtesy of URA
city scape NEIGHBORHOODS
Hot Hoods
New malls, MRT lines, an emerging CBD in the west and more—these up-and-coming heartlands are the ones to watch. By Chelsia Tan
Image Courtesy of URA
Jurong development
The Rail Corridor
Punggol Waterway Park
H
ere’s a bright side to recent developments around the island: apart from the constant gentrification of heritage sites (visit Bukit Brown cemetery or the KTM railway tracks while you still can); we are also seeing plenty of upgrades at five new and mature neighborhoods.
This sleepy North-Western part of Singapore may not have the best accessibility, but that’s about to change in 2017. The Bukit Panjang Integrated Transport Hub is expected to be completed after delays due to diversion works of a canal in the area, and it will connect the new Bukit Panjang MRT and the existing Bukit Panjang LRT with other retail, dining and residential developments. Of course, it’s fully air conditioned, because anything less would be inhumane. And no development in Singapore is complete without a new mall and condominium. Located near the Integrated Transport Hub, Hillion Residences (8, 10 and 12 Jelebu Rd.) is a mixed development project with retail facilities, so don’t be surprised if you see residents shopping in their pajamas.
Bukit Timah Finally, an MRT line near this foodie enclave is in the works. By next year, there will be not one but six stations along Downtown Line 2, from Stevens Road to Upper Bukit Timah. For fusspots, heading to restaurants like Violet Oon Singapore (881 Bukit Timah Rd., 6468-5430, www. violetoonskitchen.com) and La Braceria Pizza & Grill (5 Greendale Ave., 64655918, www.labraceria.com.sg) might not be such a road trip anymore. Even better, the new Beauty World MRT station will make it easier to hit under-
16
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
the-radar eateries such as Dulukala Peranakan Restaurant (#04-04 144 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6465-2036, www.dulukala.com) and You Peng Fresh Mian Jiao Zi Guan (#04-23 144 Upper Bukit Timah Rd., 6463-5608), which serves Shanghainese bites. After stuffing yourself with food, walk off those extra calories by heading to the nearby Rail Corridor (Upper Bukit Timah) for a stroll—there are also plans to revamp a four-kilometer stretch from the former Bukit Timah Railway Station to Hillview.
Jurong Not quite the boondocks of Singapore anymore, this fast-developing precinct has two relatively new malls (Jem and Westgate), reliable dining choices and a new waterfront park and promenade currently under construction at Jurong Gateway. This mixed development project is also set to be the second Central Business District come 2018, so look out for more office, retail, dining and entertainment spaces. And if you’re still not convinced this former swamp has what it takes to rival financial bigwig Shenton Way, a High Speed Rail system linking Singapore to Kuala Lumpur—with a remarkable 90-min travelling time—is slated for completion by 2020. This means more business buzz and delegates thronging the area. In an Oct 18 article by The Straits Times, at least 150 international companies have expressed interest in the project.
Punggol We can’t emphasize how much growth this new precinct has seen in recent years, and adding to its cluster of hightech waterfront HDB flats, idyllic parks and food and dining establishments are new shopping mall Waterway Point (83 Punggol Central, www. waterwaypoint.com), rustic off-store retreat Coney Island (also known as Pulau Serangoon) and Singapore Institute of Technology’s (SIT) new central campus. While we’re not quite sure when Waterway Point and the SIT campus will be ready, Coney Island is already open to public and guided walks by NParks are already fully booked till December.
Yishun The newly revamped Orto (81 Lorong Chencharu, 6257-8858), an expanded park connector network linking cyclists to other parks, more cycling routes connecting MRT stations, amenities and nearby towns and a new community hospital are just some reasons why we love this neighborhood. But what sealed the deal is an upcoming integrated transport hub comprising a bus interchange, shopping mall (a basic Singaporean necessity), community club and town plaza, all a stone’s throw from Yishun MRT. Plus, a new hawker centre next to Yishun Park? That’s the icing on every heartlander’s wish list.
Orto
Violet Oon Singapore Image Courtesy of URA
Bukit Panjang
Former Bukit Timah Railway Station
island
The latest openings and hottest trends in Singapore
Sungei Buloh Wetlands
CITY LIVING
Fort Canning Park
Walk the Walk A trip to Sisters’ Islands, a rare look inside the Istana, birdwatching in Sungei Wetlands, a last-chance visit to Bukit Brown—even locals shouldn’t miss these tours. By Chelsia Tan Singapore River
T 1
Gillman Barracks
he haze may be an indefinite weather forecast, but that doesn’t mean you should miss out on getting up-close-andpersonal with a slice of trivia outdoors. Here are eight walking tours to check out.
Gillman Barracks
This indie arts enclave has teamed up with the volunteer organization Friends of the Museums to provide free tours by trained guides, who will not only give participants a low-down on the art works there, but also a peek into the area’s history and heritage. Depending on your preference, you can choose to sign up for the weekly Art & History Tour or, for the less artistically inclined, the monthly History & Heritage Tour, which dives into how Gillman Barracks evolved from a British military outpost in the ‘30s to a contemporary arts commune. Tours are usually held from Fri-Sun and registration is required. www. gillmanbarracks.com/tours
2
The Istana
If you’ve always wanted to visit the sprawling grounds of the Prime Minister’s office, here’s your last chance—for 2015, that is. The Istana is only open during five national holidays through the year: Chinese New Year, Deepavali, Hari Raya Puasa, Labor Day and National Day. And on Deepavali (Nov 10), there is a Nature Guided Walk bringing visitors on a tour of the tightlyguarded compound’s biodiversity. You can roam on your own or join a small group, which departs every half hour from 10am-4pm. Admission to the main gate is free for Singaporeans and Singapore Permanent Residents and guided tours cost $4 for adults. www.istana.gov.sg
3
Singapore River
The Singapore River Walk is a revamped 2.8km selfguided tour covering 14 heritage sites from Collyer Quay to Robertson Quay. You’ll be fed with nuggets of the history of the river and landmarks comprising buildings, places of worship and bridges all along Marina Bay and the
18
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
Central Business District. Highlights include seven new spots such as the former Thong Chai Medical Institution, a clinic established in 1867, Masjid Omar Kampong Melaka, which is the oldest mosque in Singapore, and Clemenceau Bridge. And when all that history gets a little too heady, you can always sneak an early happy hour at Clarke Quay. www. nhb.gov.sg
4
Sungei Buloh Wetlands
You might be lucky enough to spot the reserve’s many native species like mudskippers, crabs, shellfish, water snakes, birds, spiders, monitor lizards and otters, which inhabit the 130-hectare park’s mangroves, mudflats, ponds and forests. It’s also currently the migratory season for shorebirds, plovers and sandpipers (unless the haze ruined that too). So if you have a fetish for feathers, then join a free guided walk every Saturday at 9:30am, excluding public holidays and eve of public holidays. Registration is required. www.nparks.gov.sg
5
Bukit Brown Cemetery
The clock is ticking fast for this historical plot of land where many of Singapore’s prominent figures, such as businessman Ong Sam Leong, were laid to rest. The cemetery is slated to be demolished for the much-debated construction of an eight-lane road to the MacRitchie Viaduct and Adam Flyover, to be completed by 2017. As of now, the gates and its four columns have been removed. Guided tours are conducted intermittently so keep a lookout at their Facebook page. www.facebook.com/sgheritage
6
Fort Canning Park
Art and history is the focus of the Fort Canning Sculpture Trail, a free guided tour of the area’s contemporary and historical works of art, some left behind
by the British. We expect some interesting bits of trivia from the excursion, as the park once housed the palaces of 14th century Malay kings, the headquarters of the Far East Command Centre and the British Army Barracks during World War II. The next one is happening on Dec 5, so keep tabs on their website. www.nparks.gov.sg
7
Haw Par Villa
The 78 year-old park is famous for its creepy exhibits of the “Ten Courts of Hell”, a macabre depiction of the Chinese afterlife, and outlandish dioramas of Chinese folklores and legends. It was also a rite of passage for many locals in the ‘70’s and ‘80’s. And attempting to revive its flagging popularity (the park’s Hua Song museum closed in 2012 to due losses) is tour organizer Journeys, which will restore statues, sculptures and organize daily tours at the attraction. Right now, guided tours cost $35 for adults and are held every Friday from 9:30am-12:00pm. www. journeys.com.sg
8
Sisters’ Islands
Its free guided walks are so popular, you have to book way in advance or risk waiting for months. Singapore’s first marine park covers nearly 40 hectares around Sisters’ Islands, comprising a rich ecosystem of coral reefs, sandy shores and seagrass areas. At low tide, you might see marine life such as black sea cucumbers, hermit crabs, giant clams, sea slugs and more. The area is also home to rare species like the Neptune’s Cup Sponge, initially assumed to be globally extinct for more than a century until its discovery here in 2011. The next walk is on Dec 11 and 13, and registration is open now. www. nparks.gov.sg
The inside scoop on Singapore’s dining scene
eats
COFFEE Studious Space DESSERT Sweet and Chi Chi Waku Ghin is one of our favorite restaurants, but let’s face it: it’s not an everyday type of place. So we’re extra excited that now you can gorge on their desserts at the new Patisserie Platine (10 Bayfront Avenue, 6688-5568, http://www. marinabaysands.com/restaurants/ celebrity-chefs/waku-ghin.html) at Rise Lounge from 11am daily. There are 18 pastries in the menu, with our favorite being the Ghin Cheesecake with a lemon curd in its center. Prices start from $10 per pastry, while macaron lovers can get their fix at $25 for a dozen.
No indie-themed trip to Hong Kong is complete without a trip to world-famous cafe The Coffee Academics. And soon, Singapore will get its very first outlet, too, on the second floor of Scotts Square (6 Scotts Square, www. the-coffeeacademics.com) come December. For the moment, they’ve got a pop-up at the same location, with an espresso bar with a machine called the Spirit Triplette, a tea bar, a cupping station and an open kitchen for some food. For those who want something special, try the hand brew bar and the luxury custom blend concierge counter.
LUNCH Bistro Bites
Alexandra workers, rejoice at this new lunch option in the area that’s not the meatballs at IKEA. Cafe and bakery Carpenter and Cook has a relatively new outlet, The Bakehouse (321 Alexandra Rd, 6250-0040, www. carpenterandcook.com) at Alexandra Central. The bistro serves mainstays like the brioche breads and sandwiches. Fillings include pear compote, pulled pork and guacamole. You can also get more hearty stuff like pizza from their wood-fired ovens, with toppings like grilled eggplant with pesto and crabmeat with pink sauce.
COMING SOON Chinatown Po-Mo
As if Keong Saik could get any more saturated with restaurants and bars; there’s yet another newcomer on the road. Enter Meta, a modern Asian restaurant that’s currently setting up shop at 9 Keong Saik Road. The executive chef of the place is Jonas Offenbach who’s had stints at New York City’s Gramercy Tavern. While the details are vague, their Instagram seems to promise pretty plates of modern American food with Asian touches and a selection of craft beers. Stay tuned for more details.
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
19
eats NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE
Festival Feasting This Deepavali, revisit Little India’s diverse culinary scene for a satisfying meal. By SG Editorial
Sushi Jin
Cocotte
T
here’s more to Little India than amazing dosa (though there’s tons of that too). Eat your way through North and South Indian, Japanese omakase, epic brunches and even hawker favorites.
Cocotte
Mustard
Cocotte, 1/F Wanderlust, 2 Dickson Rd., 6298-1188, www.restaurantcocotte.com.
32 Race Course Rd., 6297-8422, www.mustardsingapore.com.
Kebabs & Curries
Ng Ah Sio Pork Ribs Soup Eating House
Tucked away in Wanderlust Hotel, this modern French restaurant serves comfort food with a twist. While the menu changes frequently, mainstays include duck rillettes ($18) and mussels in a creamy mariniere sauce ($12). The big draw for most is the weekend brunch trolley (from $59) loaded with pork pies, oyster blades with organic greens, and desserts like crepes.
Located at the extension of Mustafa Centre, you can opt to have dinner both indoors or alfresco-style here. The breezy rooftop restaurant serves both North and South Indian cuisine, including bestsellers like butter chicken ($12.90), mutton seekh kebab ($12) and also indulgent items like Dosas ($5), a fermented crepe made from rice batter and black lentils. Also woth the calories are Uttappam ($4.20), a thick pancake with toppings like tomatoes, onions, chilis, bell pepper and cabbage, seafood curries (from $10-15) and hearty biryanis (from $12.90-15). #07-00 171 Syed Alwi Rd., 6419-0749, www.mustafa.com. sg/mkebabs.
Komala Vilas
Get down and dirty with fresh banana leaves piled high with rice at this vegetarian South Indian restaurant, which has been around since 1947. Indulging in lots of curry is a must, and we recommend ordering the dal and vegetable curry ($8.50). However, biryanis are not the only must-haves— don’t miss the yummy selection of naans, vadais (fried lentil and onion doughnuts) and dosais (pancakes made from lentils and rice flour). 76-78 Serangoon Rd., 6293-6980, www.komalavilas. com.sg.
Morsels
The brainchild of chef owners Petrina Loh and Bryan Chia, this quaint restaurant serves modern Western plates with an Asian twist. The menu currently features items like Hokkaido scallop carpaccio with uni sabayon and preserved lemon vinaigrette ($18), Hungarian mangalican Pork seasoned with kombu salt, Asian ginger sauce and served with cauliflower puree ($29) and mekajiki with chili salsa, preserved lemon oil and frisee ($16). 35 Mayo St., 6396-6302, www.morsels.com.sg.
20
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
Look no further if you’re craving Bengali and Punjabi cuisine. At this modest and homely space, order specialties like hinger kochuri ar cholar dal, a dish of puffed bread with black gram and asafoetida filling ($9.90), special Kolkata kathi kabab rolls ($8.50), with chicken, and the chingri maacher malai curry, with prawns cooked in coconut cream, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom ($18.90).
Mustard
If you want a simple bowl of bak kut teh, then make a beeline for this famous eatery, a stalwart in the ‘50s. There are only two mains on their menu: the signature pork ribs soup, a potent brew of pork ribs boiled in an herbal brew ($8.50), and the spare & pork ribs combo soup ($7.50). Have them with sides like blanched pig liver ($5.50), braised winter mushroom ($5), braised pig intestine ($6) or the tau kwa pok, braised bean curd cooked in soy sauce ($2). 208 Rangoon Rd., 6291-4537, www.ngahsio.com.
Komala Vilas
Rouse
It’s a hip halal-certified cafe decked out in concrete walls and floors, mismatched furniture and trendy steel-lined furnishings—come here for hearty fare such as the Crabby Patty ($17.90), breaded crab cakes served with a mango compote; pastas and opened-faced sandwiches. 36 Dunlop St., 6292-2642, www.facebook.com/ rouseondunlop.
Sushi Jin
This mid-range restaurant, set in an airy space with proper sushi counters, offers an extensive menu of sashimi and sushi (both $80 for two), omakase sets (from $80), grilled plates such as the Unagi Kabayaki ($28), with grilled freshwater eel, fried ginger, leek and homemade eel sauce; and appetizers like the truffle seafood Chawanmushi ($15) stuffed with prawn, crab and scallops, and served with a decadent dose of truffle. While most of the items are still on the pricier spectrum, you pay for quality while dining in an intimate and upscale surround.
Morsels
#01-11/12 Owen Link., 6443-3378, www.sushijin.com.sg.
Rouse
Holidays, hotels and insider travel news
escapes
SOUTH KOREA
Seoul Searching The new wave of local artists, K-pop stars and street shows are brightening up the old paths of Korea’s capital. By Monruedee Jansuttipan K-Live
National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Dongdaemun Design Plaza
Old Meets New
Dongdaemun area was once an old army compound. Now, it’s at the forefront of a new Seoul. Thanks to the opening of the iconic Dongdaemun Design Plaza (www.ddp.or.kr) in 2009, it has become the center of the city’s creative industries. Visit the Design Lab on its second floor to browse the latest work from leading Korean designers. Though futuristic in design, the compound still preserves the history of Dongdaemun’s ruins, integrating them into the landscape architecture to become the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park museum. Entrance is free. Get some exercise, see incredible views of the modern Seoul skyline and also savor some history by dedicating half a day to walking along the Fortress Wall of Seoul, an 18.6km-long wall built during the Joseon Dynasty (13th century AD). You can easily combine the walk with visits to old settlements like Naksan Park and Ihwa Mural Village, which is now full of cheerful wall paintings from local artists.
Sight and Sound
Once the neighborhood of choice for foreigners living in Korea, Itaewon has now transformed into a hub for culture. Start your day exploring at Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (leeum.samsungfoundation.org) to see its private collection dating back to 14th century A.D. On the main street, you’ll find the newly opened Music Library+Understage (library. hyundaicard.com), a music-focused complex storing more than 10,000 vinyl records along with an archive of music magazines, including Rolling Stone’s first issue from 1967. Although visiting the museum requires you to either own or be with someone who has a local Hyundai credit card, the cafe and terrace are free to visit anytime, and often play host to aspiring local artists performing small gigs. Next to it is Series (www.byseries.com), a multi-brand shop selling neovintage clothes and handmade wooden furniture.
Art Walk
Most of the city’s galleries are clustered in the old part of town around Gyeongbokgung Palace, where even the underground Gyeonbokgung Station serves as a vast public exhibition space. Top galleries include Kukje Gallery (www. kukje.org) and Hakgojae Gallery (www.hakgojae.com)—two prominent local galleries praised for driving the Korean art scene onto the global stage—as well as other contemporary art spaces Jean Gallery (www.jeanart.net), Leeahn Gallery (www.leeahngallery.com) and Gallery Simon (www. gallerysimon.com), which has a pretty cafe on the rooftop. The
area is also home to the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (mmca.go.kr/eng), which exhibits local films, paintings, concerts and performances. Entrance is free on Wednesday evenings. While in the area, make the time to stroll around Samcheong-dong for local crafts, arts, clothes and coffee. Don’t miss Heartist (blog.naver.com/heart_ist), a five-story fashion CSR store and space that sells lifestyle items and clothes from local designers and has a charming rooftop garden.
Modern Times
You don’t need to be a K-pop fan to enjoy K-Live (www. kperformance.org), the self-proclaimed “next generation of a cultural stage show.” It combines digital techniques such as holograms, augmented reality and virtual reality to create a virtual concert of K-pop megastars Big Bang, 2NE1 and the international phenomenon Psy with his Gangnam Style troops on the stage. There’s also an amazing view from the K-Live terrace of Iraqi-English starchitect Zaha Hadid’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza (see below), letting you see the building in its complete form. If you want to see even more K-stars, the newly opened Grevin Museum (www.grevin-seoul.com/en) is full of Korean heartthrobs alongside world-famous figures like Steve Jobs and John Lennon, as well as memorable movie scenes like E.T. biking through the air. Built in 2006, Some Sevit (www.somesevit.com), aka Floating Islands, is a complex of three illuminated structures on the Han River. The most exciting is Yevit, a giant floating LED screen playing various world-class art and orchestra performances, which you can view while sitting on breezy outdoor theater seats. You can also take a cycle ride with locals around the area, since Some Sevit sits near the Hangang (River) Cycling Trail, a handsome 80-kilometer track that winds its way along the river. Bike rental (3,000 won per hour) is easy, requiring you to show your passport at the rental station under the Banpo Bridge, where you’ll also find fountain shows from 7:30-9pm (20 minutes per show). Rather hang with a younger crowd? Head to Hongdae Street Market on Friday and Saturday nights. It’s full of street performances from rappers, guitarists and dance troops. On Theater Street, near Daehangno University, you’ll also find plenty of live shows hosted by independent theaters that groom young performers. (Note: Korean language skills are required, to know what’s going on.) Even if you’re not into drama, this area is totally worth visiting just for the peoplewatching, as it’s one of the hippest spots for the young to eat and drink.
Music Library+Understage
Gyeongbokgung Station
Ihwa Mural Village
Some Sevit
Essentials AirAsia (www.airasia.com) offers the best rates for a round trip from $440. Cathay Pacific (www. cathaypacific.com) starts from $750. Korean Air (www.koreanair.com) from $770.
WHERE TO STAY: Plaza Hotel Seoul (www. hoteltheplaza.com) is situated opposite City Hall and is within easy reach of all the city’s major attractions. Rates start from $266. CURRENCY: 1000 won = $30
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015 SG MAGAZINE
21
last word
Rohini Ramnathan One of the hosts of Radio Masti 96.3, Singapore’s only Hindi-language radio station, Mumbai transplant Rohini Ramnathan probably knows the city’s Indian community better than anyone. From curious phone calls from her listeners to being recognized by cab drivers, she has some interesting stories to tell. Here, she talks to Mrigaa Sethi about why Deepavali in Singapore is so great and why radio will never die.
I love the multiculturalism of Singapore. And the food! And the cocktails. Also, its proximity to destinations in Southeast Asia. But more than anything, it’s the strong work ethic, the inspiring story of progress and the little giant status. Still, the absence of distinct seasons makes me feel like time is moving very slowly. Mumbai and Singapore are essentially immigrant cities. Both are ports and their very nature is defined by the steady influx of immigrants that let the city shape their own futures. And both are food cities—lucky me! I really wish Mumbai would get the organization of Singapore. The fact that everything works is something that I really love. I can’t wait for Singapore to have a bigger movie industry someday. There have been examples of great films, like Ilo Ilo, coming out of Singapore. This city needs to tell more stories of its own people. I try and find interesting people to talk to on my show. And that usually starts when I take a cab to work every day. Cabbies in Singapore could be a whole audio series. There’s a science to placing every song on the show, believe it or not! There’s a thing called mood mapping. 70% of our show is music. How do I, in the same hour, get from [popular and upbeat dance song] “Chikni Chameli” to [poetic and sad song] “Tanhai”? I can’t play the same song at the same time two days in a row, because there’s a guy who’s stepping out every day at 5:45pm and tunes in between 5:45-6:15pm, and it’s my job to give him a different production every day. If this was a radio station in the US, the music would be different. The Indians there
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
22
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2015
by Kathy Macleod
are so removed from the homeland that their whole idea of India is about nostalgia. But Singapore is closer. It has a steady influx of new Indians. The Singaporean Indians are very in tune with what’s going on with Bollywood. I don’t need to be bound by oldies. It’s such a cool mix of people turning in. I try and find out if the day is important to any community that is tuning in. I try learning a lifetime of trivia everyday—from water on Mars to why Serangoon Road is called Serangoon Road to finding out that the first ever plane in Singapore landed at Farrer Park. All this is done before show time. And then I fly between five and eight pm.
here, still works at a saree store at Tekka Market as a salesperson and tells me some amazing stories of a time before Singapore became the glitzy city it is now. Singaporean Indians love Bollywood, and have a lot of love for [old singers] Rafi and Kishore Kumar stuff—probably an imported nostalgia from when they were growing up. I remember a Malay gentleman having such a long discussion with me about Rafi.
It thrills me to bits when I get messages from non-Indians
It’s a huge cross-section that tunes into my show— Singaporean Indians to new Indians to some dedicated Chinese and Malay listeners. It thrills me to bits when I get messages from non-Indians saying they may not get all the Hindi, but they love the vibe of the show. That, to me, is good radio. They are also a very smart audience, well informed and very loyal listeners. I love it when people say, “I know a Rohini, the Radio Masti girl.” When I tell them it’s me, I love the look on their faces. I think I am Singapore’s best kept secret. Radio Masti has given me some amazing opportunities to connect with the city. I have a close radio friend and we celebrated her 60th birthday together recently. I took her to lunch at her favorite restaurant in Singapore. She is my most regular listener and someone I meet every few months. She knows every answer to every question I ask on my show. She was born
My listeners know that I am a bak kut teh loving Tamilian whose Hindi is better than her Tamil.
People said in the past that theater was a dying art and would be replaced by film and television, but time has proven that nothing replaces a live human being creating art. Radio has the same live quality. Sure, digital media is essential, gets us closer to our fans and can be used to amplify our reach. The immediacy of social media is on par, if not quicker, than radio. But once you get the news, entertainment radio can drive opinion. I love the Deepavali light-up and market in Singapore. We have them in Mumbai, too, but it’s nice to see it institutionalized—how the lightup goes from September until November. I used to run back to India for Deepavali every year. This is the first year I’ve said, “No, I need to be here.” It’s such a personal festival—even though it’s all about food, clothes and meeting your friends. You have to be around the people you love and care about. And for me, that’s happened in Singapore in 2015. It’s a very special Deepavali.