w w w. s g n o w. s g | M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
Hi Madonna!
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #695 | FEBRUARY 26, 2016
what’s on what’s new what matters
Photographer Zinkie Aw shows you are what you trash in a photography series, Republic of Pulau Semakau. See PHOTOGRAPHY , page 10, for an interview.
EVENT
NEIGHBORHOOD
TRAVEL
INTERVIEW
i Light Marina Bay
City Hall’s New Openings
Japan and Phuket
Poet Pooja Nansi
w w w. s g n o w. s g | M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
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SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #695 | FEB 26, 2016
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Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
page 3 14
photography
A Guide to Singapore Office Acronyms
Unusual Portraits of Singapore
1. CSI
8 music
12 art
Sing Jazz Festival
Singapore Design Week
What is it: Crime Scene Investigation What it really means: Putting your cyber sleuthing skills to use, typically for digging up salacious dirt on fellow colleagues to dispense by the watercooler. 2. D&D
8 comedy
16
Margaret Cho
City Hall’s Revamp
What is it: Dinner & Dance What it really means: An annual company event/mixer, also known as the prom night of the corporate world where you either go big, or go home.
neighborhood
3. FYNA
18 dining
20 travel
Exciting New Restaurants and Bars
Small-Town Japan
22 travel
23 interview
Revisiting Phuket
Poet Pooja Nansi on Failure
What is it: Keep in view What it really means: Typically applies to an unpopular idea suggested during meetings that’s tactfully put on the back burner by your bosses or colleagues. What is it: In-charge What it really means: The hierarchical order at work. Also refers to a superior who can make or break your day. 6. NATO
Publisher & General Manager Ric Stockfis countrymanager@asia-city.com.sg Editorial Managing Editor Mrigaa Sethi editor@asia-city.com.sg Features Editor Chelsia Tan Digital News Reporter Shi Min Xie Design Associate Art Director Carmen Louise Ho Senior Designer Fishy Toh Designer Carmen Chua
Where to find us!
4. KIV
5. IC
Who's in charge?
Bangkok Asia City Media Group 9/F, Room A, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand Tel: 66-2-624 9696 Fax: 66-2-237 5656 bkmagazine@asia‑city.co.th
What is it: For your necessary action What it really means: A classic tai-chi move, usually executed by bad bosses or colleagues delegating/dumping their own work responsibilities on hapless minions.
Advertising Director, Business Development Intan Agustina advertising@asia-city.com.sg
Finance Senior Finance Associate Nai Rohmat finance@asia-city.com.sg
Senior Manager, Media & Marketing Shernan Plameras
Finance and Admin Assistant Rusydi Ya’akup
Executives, Media & Marketing Lee Wee Keong
Group Directors Chief Executive Officer Gretchen Worth gworth@asia‑city.co.th
Junior Executive, Media & Marketing Sharon Leong
Group Digital Director Greg Duncan gduncan@asia‑city.com.sg
Marketing Marketing Manager Silver Adrienna Ng marketing@asia-city.com.sg
On the cover Photo by Zinkie Aw
What is it: No action, talk only What it really means: This straight-forward local abbreviation applies to clients/co-workers/bosses who talk the talk, but can’t walk the walk. 7. TBA/TBC
What is it: To be advised/To be confirmed What it really means: Three options: One: I can’t deal with this right now. Two: please check back, never; Three: I have no idea, but I won’t say it.
Who are we?
Published every two weeks (with daily updates at sgnow.sg), SG (previously I-S) delivers honest, independent and irreverent coverage of the Singapore lifestyle scene. We’ve been recommending what to do and where to go here for 21 years—and we’ve never been more excited about the city than we are right now.
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Awesome events, cool new places, the very best of the next two weeks
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Fashion, fitness, tech and more SG Magazine is published 24 times a year by Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd., 211 Henderson Road, #07‑02, Singapore 159552. Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 • Fax: 65‑6323‑2779. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. The titles “SG Magazine”, “I-S Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of SG Magazine and I-S Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. SG Magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Contact the Publisher for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in SG Magazine must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by KHL Printing Co. Pte. Ltd., 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968. ISSN 0218‑8872 MCI (P) 166/12/2015
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016
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ADVERTORIAL
Revelry by the River 5 great reasons to attend the St Patrick’s Day Street Festival Your annual excuse to enjoy a pint and unleash your inner Irishman is just around the corner. And there’s no better place in Singapore to soak up the St Patrick’s Day festivities than around Singapore River. Once again, the precinct will be awash with several days of festivities, food and drink promotions and, of course, the famous annual parade. Here’s why you should go to the St Patrick’s Day Street Festival.
You own the streets Nothing lends a street party vibe quite like the annual road closure, when Circular Road becomes pedestrian-only. Enjoy hopping from bar to bar, dancing in the streets to catchy Irish music or simply soaking in the atmosphere while you enjoy an ice cream.
Great deals on food and drink Boat Quay and Circular Road are the go-to places for great food and drinks all year round, but during the St Patrick’s Day Street Festival, revelers enjoy the added perk of great promotions. Expect special prices on everyone’s favorite Irish beer, Guinness, and other promotions at bars like Hero’s, Mogambo and many others. Restaurants like Molly Malone’s will be dishing out iconic Irish dishes for the festival, too.
Plenty of live entertainment Practice your jig because there will be many opportunities to dance at the street festival as local and international bands bring out their Irish flair.
The annual parade This year’s riverside parade promises to be even bigger than the last. Best part: it’s completely free to participate. So put on your sunscreen and join us. Date: Mar 20 Time: Starts at 2:30pm Venue: Raffles Landing Site
There’s something for everyone There’s more to St Patrick’s Day than beer and dancing. In fact, it has plenty of wholesome fun for all ages. The festival will also feature face-painting, balloon sculpturemaking, candy floss, popcorn and other fun stuff—so do bring your kids along for a fun weekend with the family. Date: Mar 19-20 Time: 2-10pm Venue: Circular Road
The St Patrick’s Day Street Festival takes place from March 19-20, from 2-10pm. The annual parade will be held on March 20, at 2:30pm. For regular updates, visit www. singapore-river.com/stpatricksday2016
/StPatsDaySG
BROUGHT TO YOU BY SINGAPORE RIVER ONE Official Beer:
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up front
Our biweekly study of the city’s burgeoning (and dying) trends
Hot: Otters
OB INDEX seeks2dream
Linda Martin
HOT OR NOT
Singapore’s latest news, numbers and dramas at a glance
Not: Other creatures
Hot: Female NS recruits
Shernan Geronimo-Tan
Gramicidin
Instagrammers have gone crazy over the birth of five new otter pups at Ang Mo Kio-Bishan Park recently. Alas, there is lots of anxiety among nature activists for some of Singapore’s other furry creatures, like the lesser mousedeer and the pangolin that stand to be disturbed when the MRT construction begins through MacRitchie.
Not: Exemptions
Chilanga Cement
Ivan Heng
Showing Singaporeans that National Service is not just a rite of passage for local boys, female recruits here have reportedly doubled in 2014, with a total of 140 women signed on as regulars and 1,500 uniformed women in the army, navy and air force. While some locals are proud to have served in the army, Singaporean-New Zealand teen Brandon Smith is facing jail time and a fine if he chooses to defer NS.
Hot: Couples
FEB
Charting the ups and downs of Singapore's openness, tolerance and freedom of expression
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The blogosphere was aflutter when three objects were withdrawn for alleged obscenity from the Institute of Contemporary Art’s new exhibition Fault-Lines: Disparate & Desperate Intimacies, a group show addressing the queer experience. The two pieces belonged to Singaporean artist Loo Zihan’s 81-object installation called Queer Objects: An Archive for the Future. ICA Director Bala Starr told The Straits Times that the exhibition is “intended to be inclusive, particularly bearing in mind that we have young as well as mature students at Lasalle, many from different cultural and religious backgrounds.” It’s a disappointing move by Lasalle/the Institute—where images of nudes are part of the curriculum—resorting to what seems to be a rather arbitrary definition of obscenity.
WE
SG
This week you will mainly love your city for its...
Support of organic produce and local farmers More supermarkets in the heartlands are stocking products grown without the use of chemicals, pesticides and preservatives, with companies like NTUC FairPrice and Cold Storage reportedly seeing a steady doubledigit growth last year. While supermarkets have turned to regional sources to keep up with demand, local organic farmers like Quan Fa Organic Farm and Green Circle have seen a substantial increase in sales in the last five years.
(or sign up at sgnow.sg/newsletters to never miss an issue)
NUMEROLOGY BE GOOD
Shop with a conscience CAREERS www.sgnow.sg
We are currently accepting applications for the following positions:
• Branded Content Writer • Digital News Reporter
Email jobs@asia-city.com.sg
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016
Free eBook download from issuu.com/sg_magazine
Not: Gay couples
The streets and the interwebs were both awash in love stuff over V-day weekend. Straight love stuff, to be specific. An article over the weekend by Today, celebrating power couples in Singapore theater, neglected to include Cultural Medallion winner Ivan Heng and his husband Tony Trickett, even though the couple were initially interviewed for the story.
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Get this issue to go.
Returning this year from Mar 11-12, Boutique Fairs will once again be bringing over 150 independent and socially-conscious designers and labels to the F1 Pit Building. Possibly the largest and longest running shopping fairs in Singapore, it focuses on under-the-radar fashion and home items, and will also be supporting eight local and regional charities like the Humanitarian Organization for Migration Economics (HOME). More information at www. facebook.com/BoutiquesSingapore.
21.5 km Length of new expressway linking Woodlands to the city.
33,793 Singaporean babies born last year, the highest number in 13 years.
8,000 Estimated number of offline dates recorded by Singapore-based dating app LunchClick since its launch last April.
10,000 Record number of 10,000 volunteers reported by the Singapore President’s Challenge last year, a 10% increase from 2014.
Sources: The Straits Times, The New Paper, The Business Times
50% OFF COCKTAILS TUESDAYS, 6PM TO 9PM
Enjoy more pleasure for less with 50% off selected cocktails at Celebrity Chef bars and more.
Fancy a cocktail on us?
Ask for a Bar Hop card at any Celebrity Chef bar and collect 5 stamps to redeem. Plus, stand a chance to win a VIP party for you and your friends at Flight! Details at MarinaBaySands.com/Nightlife #MBSSocialHour
now
The essential guide to what's on in Singapore CONCERT
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MUSIC FESTIVAL
Groove with Buena Vista Social Club
Returning for the third time at Marina Bay, the three-day Sing Jazz Fest brings together both new and classic soul and jazz acts like local musician Jeremy Monteiro, British singer Joss Stone, Havana collective Buena Vista Social Club and Darker Than Wax Sound System. Mar 4, Marina Bay Sands Event Plaza, 10 Bayfront Ave., www.sing-jazz.com. $100-150.
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Bow down before the Material Girl Hold on to your hearts, fishnets and cassette tape collections, because Madonna is finally performing in Singapore, after the Girlie Show fiasco back in 1993. The Rebel Heart World Tour is a one-night-only concert and has an R18 rating. Feb 28, National Stadium, 1 Stadium Dr., www.sportshub.com.sg. $108-1,288.
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FESTIVAL
PARTY
Brunch over four floors
4
Ann Siang's hip British restaurant is inaugurating a new monthly brunch party. Oxwell Towers: Four Floors of Frolicks will involve three hours of DJs, endless canapes and free-flow booze. Each floor will have different food and drink—don't forget Hendrick's G&Ts at their newly opened rooftop bar. Feb 27, Mar 19, Apr 23, Oxwell & Co., 5 Ann Siang Hill, www.oxwelltowers.peatix.com. $95.
Ooh and aah at i Light Marina Bay Marina Bay’s glittery waterfront will once again be the backdrop of a spectacular series of dazzling light installations from artists and design studios from around the world. Also exciting are the fringe events such as workshops, concerts, street performances and guided boat tours—most of which are free. Mar 4-27, Marina Bay Waterfront Promenade, www. ilightmarinabay.sg. Free.
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COMEDY
Fight the patriarchy with Margaret Cho The sex-positive, Korean American funnywoman is here as part of her Psycho Tour to talk about everything that she is mad about at the moment, ranging from police brutality, racism and violence against women. Mar 5, Kallang Theatre, 1 Stadium Walk. $88-148 from Sistic.
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016
6
MARKET
Load up on local cheese at this farmers market
Open Farm Community is back with its third Social Market. Bring your own tote and load up on wares by The Wright Cheese Company, Romanian food from RO Dishes and acai power berry bowls from Selva Foods. There are pilates and yoga workshops at 9am and 10am respectively. Feb 27-28, Open Farm Community, 130E Minden Rd., www.facebook.com/openfarmcommunity.
now Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
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CONCERT
Call your ex from the Bon Iver show
DRINK 7 fancy Japanese whisky and sake bars in Singapore
Bincho
His first album For Emma, Forever Ago was called one of the best break-up albums by Rolling Stone. The one-man band, best known for "Skinny Love", is sure to melt your heart with ethereal tunes, synthesizers and hits like "Holocene," "Towers" and "Calgary." Feb 26, The Star Theatre, 1 Vista Exchange Green, $68-148 from Sistic.
Bam! Tapas Sake Bar
BAM! TAPAS SAKE BAR
SPORT
This casual Spanish-Japanese eatery by Chef Pepe Moncayo has close to 100 sake labels in the glass-paned cellar and of course, a sake sommelier on hand. On offer, are premium sake offerings from renowned distilleries like Juyondai, Nabeshima and Isojiman. 38 Tras Street., 6226-0500, www.facebook.com/BAMTapas-Sake-Bar.
BINCHO AT HUA BEE Housed in a 70-year old kopitiam, this yakitori bar is perfect for pre and post dinner tipples with its wide selection of Japanese-inspired apertifs that make for great after-dinner drinks. 78 Moh Guan Terrace., 6438-4567, www. facebook.com/binchohuabee.
D.BESPOKE
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Helmed by Ginza celeb bartender Daiki Kanetaka, this bar at Bukit Pasoh does interesting Japanese-inspired cocktails alongside its impressive array of Armagnac, calvados and imported blends of Japanese whisky and cherry brandy. There’s not much food at this 28-seater space, but who needs bar bites when you're in good company? 2 Bukit Pasoh Rd., 8141-5741, www.facebook.com/dbespoke.
Channel your Haruki Murakami at this race
The Green Race Ultra Challenge may be the event to up your running game. The 9.3km route goes through some parts of the Green Corridor, the Berlukar Hills and kampong trails around the island. There’s also the option to run through it for eight hours to test your limits. Feb 27, Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, Hindhede Dr., www.active.com. $45-85.
OUTING
ELIXR BAR
OUTING
10 Hike the Green Corridor
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Get to know the oldest HDB estate with this tour
Budding photographers, go on The Real Estates tour by Jean Loo to explore Toa Payoh’s most interesting places, including the iconic mosaic playground shaped like a dragon and a hundred-year-old shrine. Feb 27, Toa Payoh Central Amphitheatre 181A Lorong 4 Toa Payoh, www.aynmar2016therealestates.peatix.com. Free.
Sign up for this fivehour, 22.1 kilometer walk, which starts at 8:30am at Kranji MRT Station and ends at Kampong Bahru near SGH. Good hiking shoes are a must. Feb 27, Kranji MRT Station, 960 Woodlands Rd., www.facebook.com/ ministryofadventure. Free.
The space, outfitted with lots of dark wooden shelves and a long lit bar, is helmed by Japanese bartender Yutaka Nakashima who shakes up Japanese inspired cocktails like the Lycopini ($21)—a twist on the Bloody Mary made with vodka and cherry tomatoes or the Peridori ($22) an infusion of Mount Gay rum, Midori, Pernod, grapefruit juice and lime juice. For whisky, they have single and double malt offerings from Yamazaki, Yoichi, Miyagikyo and cult favorites like the Hibiki and Taketsuru. #0201 Orchard Shopping Centre, 321 Orchard Rd., 6733-8272, www.facebook.com/KuvoSingapore.
KAKURE The newest kid on the block at Scotts 29 lifestyle enclave is perfect for fans of sake. Dim lighting, a cozy wooden top bar and plush leathered seats add to the sexiness of this bar. A must-try is Kakure's house sake, the Tatenokawa Junmai Daiginjo, Nakadori Ki-sho label ($60)
Kakure
which features a delicate aromatic brew with a fruity after taste. If you prefer something thats more soft and crisp, try the Kinshi Masamune, Matsuya Kyuubei Junmai Daiginjo label ($80) that features a clean, fresh aftertaste that goes easy on the palate. 02-02 Scotts 29, 29 Scotts Rd., 6733-5251, www.scotts29.com.
MARIKO'S This izakaya off Keong Saik Road has a pretty extensive Japanese spirits and whisky collection featuring imported shochu like the Suntory Wanko ($8) and Suntory Nanko ($8). Fans of Japanese whisky should check out their excellent list of single or double malt offerings from big names like Suntory, Hakushu and Nikka ($12-120). 4 Jiak Chuan Rd., 6221-8262, www. facebook.com/Marikos.SG.
ORIHARA SHOTEN Specializing in sake, sochu and all things Japanese and boozy, this Singaporean offshoot of the well-known Japanese liquor store is a place to discover a still relatively under appreciated drink. #01-02 Robertson Walk, 11 Unity St., 6836-5710, www.facebook.com/ oriharashouten.
WHY NOT Get sentimental about MacRitchie Get up close and personal with nature as the NUS Toddycats, the Cicada Tree Eco Space and the BES Drongos will be conducting fortnightly tours at MacRitchie. The tours are a response to LTA’s announcement of the new Cross Island Line MRT (CRL), which will run through this ecosystem. The walks let you check out various parts of MacRitchie's diverse ecosystem and the habitats (all with minimal disturbance, of course). Trails include the Petai Trail Walk, the Venue Loop Walk and the TreeTrop Walk. Walks take place on Mar 6, 12, 13, 20 and 27. Find out more at www.lovemacritchie.wordpress.com.
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
9
now Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
PHOTOGRAPHY Zinkie Aw
FOOD
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Pig out at a Thai-Mexican mash-up Hombre Cantina and Bjorn Shen's Bird Bird are hosting Juan Night in Bangkok, with papaya salad carnitas tacos, basil duck nachos, tamarind chili margaritas and lots more, ranging from $5-15. Mar 2, Hombre Cantina, 53 Boat Quay, www.facebook.com/ hombrecantina
FESTIVAL
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Get nerdy with coffee at Cafe Asia This annual trade and consumer exhibition hosts both suppliers and cafe owners from the coffee and tea industries in Singapore and from around the region. This year’s participating cafes include Maison Ikkoku, Chye Seng Huat Hardware and Nylon Coffee Roasters. Mar 3-4, Marina Bay Sands Expo & Convention Centre, 10 Bayfront Ave., www.cafeasia.com.sg. Free.
Zinkie Aw
Photographer Zinkie Aw focuses on the seemingly mundane aspects of Singapore society to reflect on the trends and behavior that pervade the nation. One of her older series, "Republic of Pulau Semakau (A Story about Trash and People)," was exhibited as part of the Singapore International Photography Festival (SIPF) at the Singapore National Museum. Here, we talk to her about how she stumbled upon this idea and what it says about environment and identity. What got you interested in photographing people's trash? Photographing for my personal work usually begins with a complaint. For this project, it began with how I would personally dispose of the items in my personal bin in my room, or workspace, because I didn’t want others to know what I have purchased, eaten, or basically, know what I did in a day. Subsequently this axiom was formed: “You are what you throw away.” And thus I went about stalking people and their personal bins in different spaces. It was to be a visual story about waste and identity, that is in line with my personal work relating to society and their habits. Our own dustbins are, essentially, a part of one’s personal space, almost akin to a type of "identity autopsy." What were the criteria when choosing subjects for your images? I would approach strangers, family and friends about what makes up their personal waste bin on a normal day, and look out for variations
in the details. I would also ask the subjects about whether these bins reflect who they are, and think about the stories behind what they consume or discard every day. I also asked if they were willing to also keep some trash for me before I come to photograph them. Through different subjects, I believe they fit pieces of a puzzle to form an interesting series on bins and personal choices. Why did you choose to cover their faces, and put their rubbish bins front and center? Because it would be easier to get a "yes" for permission? That’s the practical part. I mostly approach strangers in my work. More seriously with respect to the thematic issues, faces relate to our identities. It is the "face" that meets with others in this community and society, like a mask of a bin. By looking at the face that is replaced visually by a bin, viewers get to guess who this is, and by looking at the environmental portraits.
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Pretend you’re partying in Berlin
NIGHTLIFE
Photography gallery DECK is hosting Club Berlin, an exhibition about the '90s electronic music scene from Mar 5-Apr 3, with the Goethe Institut, but we’re particularly excited about the opening night afterparty. The infamous bouncer of Berlin’s Berghain nightclub Sven Marquardt will be there, along with DJs like Debbie Chia and EJ Missy. Mar 4, 9pm. DECK, 120A Prinsep St., www. facebook.com/DECKsg. $15-20 from Peatix
CONCERT
Zinkie Aw is working on her next project and would like people who still use the sarong cradle to get in touch. Email her at zinkie@ishoothabits.com. SHI MIN XIE
w w w. s g n o w. s g | M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
Hi Madonna!
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #695 | FEBRUARY 26, 2016
what’s on what’s new what matters
Photographer Zinkie Aw shows you are what you trash in a photography series, Republic of Pulau Semakau. See PHOTOGRAPHY , page 10, for an interview.
EVENT
NEIGHBORHOOD
TRAVEL
INTERVIEW
i Light Marina Bay
City Hall’s New Openings
Japan and Phuket
Poet Pooja Nansi
Cover Up SG Magazine covers celebrate local artists, photographers and illustrators and their remarkable depictions of Singapore. They look so good, we’ve even started hanging them on our walls.
To suggest someone we should feature or to partner with us on this initiative, email editor@asia-city.com.sg
10
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016
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Reminisce with the boys from Take That
Before Backstreet Boys and N*Sync, there was British boyband Take That and now they will be in Singapore (sans Jason Orange and Robbie Williams, boo!). This performance is part of the HSBC Women's Championships and the priciest ticket gets you a sheltered area and free-flow Champagne. Mar 5, Driving Range of the Sentosa Golf Club, 27 Bukit Manis Rd., www.sistic.com.sg. Tickets are priced from $138-148.
ADVERTORIAL
A Star Wars screening on a rooftop—need we say more? Skip the cineplex and join your fellow fans for Star Wars VII: The Force Awakens under the night sky at myVillage. Expect an unmissable evening of games, light saber battles and some movie magic.
Don’t forget to dress up in theme! There is a $500 cash prize for the best dressed person of the night.
Redeem your movie pass for a goodie bag. Pass holders will also stand a chance to win the lucky draw grand prize of a fully functional $900 Lightsaber from FightSaber
BEFoRE THE MoviE
AFTER THE MoviE DISCUSS OVER DESSERT
DO A SPOT OF SHOPPING The movie isn’t until 7pm, so take the time to explore Serangon Gardens. There are plenty of fun retail options at myVillage. Highlights include the edgy and affordable bracelets, necklaces and earrings at U Design Fashion (#01-06, 6634-2166, www.facebook. com/udesignfashion). Hipster types will appreciate a browse through specialty magazines like Kinfolk, Cereal and Fantastic Fox at AllScript (#01-05, 65093813, www.allscript.com) right next door.
U Design Fashion
Udders
AllScript
OR A DRINK
HAVE A QUICK DINNER For fun hawker fare, there’s the Chomp Chomp Food Center (20 Kensington Park Rd.) nearby. But for an air-conditioned, sit-down affair, head to iSteaks (#0203, 6285-8839), which has a surprisingly solid and affordable menu, including a 200g grass-fed steak for $20.
Once the movie is over, there will be lots to discuss. Head over to specialty ice cream shop Udders (#01-11, 66345839, www.udders.com.sg), which is open till midnight on weekends and grab a scoop of their boozy flavors like Bailey’s & Bourbon and Orange Choc Bitters. If the discussion is going to be a long one, have it over the famous waffles at Little Wimbly Lu (#01-09, www.facebook.com/ littlewimblylu). Also open till midnight is Desert Bowl (80A Serangoon Garden Way, 62851278), famous for their epic durian mousse.
iSteaks
Little Wimbly Lu
No sweet tooth? Have a tea at The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf (#B-01) or Toast Box (#0101), both just downstairs at myVillage. If you’re in the mood to head off-premises, have a wine or digestif at Mediterranean restaurant Plonk (7 Maju Ave., 6286-4688, www.plonk.com.sg), which is open till 1am.
TAKE PART IN THE PARTY Carnival games and activities start on the rooftop a whole two hours before the movie, so grab a bucket of decadent Korean fried chicken at Yogiyo (#B1K01) and head up early.
Yogiyo Toast Box
Get your tickets at myVillage's Concierge Counter on Level 2, from Tue-Fri noon-8pm. More information at www.myvillage.sg/filmhousefest2016
BROUGHT TO YOU BY MYVILLAGE
now Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
MARKET
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DRINK
Unwind at this Latininspired rooftop bar
Located at the Suntec City Sky Garden, Terra serves up botanical-infused cocktails in a trendy and lush setting. Try Viva La Brasil, with cachaca, pineapple, agave and rosemary syrup and Aloevation, with gin, aloe vera juice, lime and dill, and interesting Mexican bites like stuffed piquillo peppers and gambas con chocolate. #03-308 Suntec City Sky Garden, 3 Temasek Blvd., 6336-6009. www.terrasingapore.com
CONCERT
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Go bargain hunting at this new flea market
The Weekend Warriors are debuting their first flea market, with lots of independent designers showcasing their goods. This include multilabel SUP Clothing, which specializes in streetwear, Ch!p Co, local crafter Finnicky Nature and hand-crafted leather wallets and pouches by Second Natvre. Mar 5-6, TripleOne Somerset #01-10A,111 Somerset Rd., www.facebook.com/theweekendwarrior.co. Free.
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Show off your indie music chops Death Cab for Cutie will be back in Singapore as a part of the WOAH Festival 2016. Expect to hear their hits like "Black Sun," "Little Wanderer" and "Meet Me On The Equinox" from the Twilight saga. Mar 7, www.woahfest.com. $99-190.
DRINK
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Get to know malt whiskies at this dinner
Get to know local designers at Singapore Design Week Singapore Design Week is back for a third year, with exhibitions, conferences, workshops and the flagship event, SingaPlural 2016. This year's theme is "Senses–The Art and Science of Experiences.” Mar 8-20, various venues, www.designsingapore.org.
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016
Get fit like a ballerina
WeBarre claims to be Singapore's first ever barre studio, offering classes that blend yoga, Pilates, strength training and ballet techniques. The 1,600 sq ft. studio is located in a shophouse, and resembles a typical ballet studio with sunlight streaming in from the windows. Rates start at $330 for 10 sessions. 86B Tanjong Pagar Rd., 62215539, www.webarre.com.
Cook & Brew is having a five-course dinner paired with peated malt whiskies. Chef Aaron Foster is serving dishes like the Nova Scotia lobster and lardo tortellini, polenta and Dutch veal breast and more. Mar 8,The Westin Singapore, 12 Marina View, Asia Square Tower 2 www. thewestinsingapore.com. $130 and above.
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FOOD
WELLNESS
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Instagram these famous ribs from Bali Naughty Nuri’s much raved-about barbecued pork ribs, cooked on a smokey charcoal pit and glazed with a special house sauce, have finally made their debut here. Go see what the fuss is about. 15 Stamford Rd., #01-84 Capitol Piazza, 6384-7955. www.facebook.com/ nurissingapore.
DANCE
DESIGN
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Check out Singapore’s coolest breakdancers
The SG B-Boy Championships are underway, and while it may be too late to enter, you can still catch one on one battles or groups of five pitting themselves against one another. DJ ZlexiiFlow will be spinning, and turntablist Pittaya R of RomeZerious Crew from Bangkok will be there, too. Mar 12-13, Velocity @ Marina Square, 238 Thomson Rd., www. velocitynovena.com.Free.
The fifth edition of the , the premiere luxury collectible book for the most discerning travelers, placed in-room at leading hotels, will be published in March 2016.
To advertise, email sales@asia-city.com.sg or call (65) 6323 2512. A very limited number of premium positions are available. FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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city scape
Picture Perfect
11 amazing Singapore photographers you should be following on Instagram right now. By Shi Min Xie 1
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e’re always about supporting local talent, and our photographers have impressed us so much that they’re nearly always on the cover. Here, we feature 11 of the best local photographers to follow on social media. Although you may have seen their work on websites and exhibitions, their Instagram accounts reveal that they can find magic in the mundane.
1. Aik Beng Chia
5. Nicky Loh
9. Mindy Tan
Known for photographing a Teochew opera troupe in both costume in everyday clothes, Aik Beng Chia also recently published street photography book Singkapor. www.instagram.com/aikbengchia.
Nicky Loh’s series of Commonwealth Avenue’s HDB shopkeepers was a huge hit last year, and his Instagram account experiments with aerial shots, street photography and even architectural shots. There are some intriguing shots of last year’s election rallies, too. www.instagram. com/nickyloh.
We’ve previously featured Mindy Tan’s photographs of the vendors at the Sungei Road market. Her street photography is all about color, with a keen eye for people’s expressions. www.instagram.com/mindyshoots.
6. Nguan Local photographer Nguan’s got a good eye for picking out pastel colors in the cityscape and using buildings to frame the lives of locals. www.instagram.com/_nguan_.
We’ve previously featured Bryan van der Beek’s work that shows Singapore transitioning from day to night. His account features lots of street scenes, black and white and carefully crafted compositions. www.instagram.com/ bryanvanderbeek.
7. Ore Huiying
11. Yafiq Yusman
Ore Huiying is a documentary photographer, and her next assignment takes her to Punggol, where she’s helping out on recording the history of the precinct. www.instagram. com/orehuiying.
22 year-old architecture major Yafiq Yusman has quite an Instagram following on Explore Singapore, an account dedicated to showcasing the city in a fun and interesting way. His own personal Instagram showcases reflective shots of the city. www.instagram.com/_yafiqyusman_.
2. hashbrown26 Known only as Asyraf on Instgram, you should check him out for those totally cool, long exposure shots of city lights. www.instagram.com/hashbrown26.
3. Leslie Heng Heng captures the cool architecture that can be found in Singapore. You should really follow him if you want to find out cool and unusual Instagram-worthy locations. www. instagram.com/blackmobil.
4. Edwin Koo Edwin Koo’s Transit book captured people in the MRT trains just as the doors are about to close. But his Instagram is way more diverse, with images of his Nepal travels, Thaipusam in Little India and more. www.instagram.com/ singaporeson.
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8. Darren Soh We’ve featured Darren Soh on our covers before, and that’s because he always features an interesting perspective on Singapore. His Instagram account is full of wow-worthy HDB shots. www.instagram.com/darrensohphoto.
10. Bryan van der Beek
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island
The latest openings and hottest trends in Singapore
Supermama @ Esplanade
NEIGHBORHOOD
Central Perk
An Instagrammable hotel, stuff from local designers, and of course, the Bali-famous Naughty Nuri’s—this is why Singapore’s City Hall precinct is hotter than ever. By SG Staff The South Beach
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here’s lots of stuff to check out at City Hall, with local designers setting up shop, new restaurants, and museums and galleries pulling out all the stops. We give you the lowdown on what’s cool in the area:
It’s got a stylish new hotel
Bali’s famous rib restaurant has arrived
Designed by architectural firm Foster+Partners with interiors by the well-known French designer Philippe Starck, the 654room hotel The South Beach is filled with quirky designs. While the rooms are mostly decked in white, Starck’s touches include some brightly colored cushions inspired by artist Joan Miro and a striking black and white carpet. The interiors are peppered with Moroccan-style lamps and other Middle Eastern-inspired furniture, as well as a colorful video mural. There are also two sky gardens, two infinity pools and fun restaurants and bars like Vatos Urban Tacos and The Armoury. 30 Beach Rd., 6818-1888, www. thesouthbeach.com.sg.
Ubud’s famous eatery specializing in fork-tender barbecue pork ribs and proper martinis is opening shop any day now at Capitol Piazza, promising casual, communal Indonesian barbecue and allegedly the best martinis in the world. #0184 Capitol Piazza, 15 Stamford Rd., 6384-7955, www. facebook.com/NurisSingapore.
Local labels are hot again Local fashion designer Sabrina Goh (#02-14 Capitol Piazza, 13 Stamford Rd., 6385-2185, www.sabrinagoh.com) has now set up shop at Capitol Piazza. While the store concept hasn’t changed much from her previous branch at Orchard (think minimalist decor, with racks of the brand’s Elohim and Light labels), there are a few other independent lifestyle brands stocked there. Skincare labels Rough Beauty and Frank Skincare, designer eyewear brand Karen Walker and stationery specialist The Paper Bunny are just a few names on the list. There’s also Supermama @ Esplanade (#02-04 The Esplanade, 1 Esplanade Dr., www. supermamastore.com), with products that are similar to the Singapore Art Museum, so you’ll still find home decor items and the store’s signature ceramic ware featuring graphics of Singapore icons.
National Gallery Singapore
The National Gallery now does concerts The hottest opening in recent memory, National Gallery Singapore just announced that it’ll be doing concerts on Fridays, 2pm at the courtyard with the gallery—great for a long lunch break from the office. And if you still haven’t been yet, it’s not too late to do a guided tour for free: the building highlights tour starts at 11am daily, the DBS Singapore Gallery tour starts at 2pm, the UOB Southeast Asia Highlights tour starts at 3:30pm, and the last two tours, Beauty Beyond Form and After The Rain (showing work by Chinese ink painters Wu Guangzhong and Chua Ek Kay), start at 4:30pm on Saturdays and Sundays. #01-01 1 St Andrew’s Rd., 6271-7000, www.nationalgallery.sg.
Elohim
And of course ACM has great galleries The first phase of the Asian Civilisations Museum’s revamp is done, with it comes the addition of two new wings— the three-storey Kwek Hong Png Wing, and the Riverfront Wing where the Khoo Teck Puat Gallery is located. Among the exhibits are a few on the history of trade, including one of a Tang century shipwreck, one about Chinese porcelain, Indian textiles and furniture and another about Southeast Asia as a global trading hub. But it’s not just about business—the other exhibits show the different religions that pervade throughout the region. History nerds, get ready. 1 Empress Place, 6332-7798, www.acm.org.sg. Asian Civilisations Museum
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016
The inside scoop on Singapore’s dining scene
eats
DINING
Feeding Frenzy Here are the best new places to wine and dine at now. By Chelsia Tan Jinzakaya
Empress
Angeleno
Saha
Whitegrass
A
fancy restaurant by one of Sydney’s top chefs, molecular Indian cuisine and a new rooftop bar—these are just some of this month’s hot tables.
Angeleno
Jinzakaya
With the launch of chef David Almany’s (formerly of Osteria Mozza) Italian-Californian venture, it seems like Gemmill Lane has become a bit of a hidden dining enclave. The no-frills casual restaurant occupies the former premises of Luke’s Oyster Bar & Chop House, offering a restrained but still hearty menu of Italian plates with a Californian slant. The food may lean towards a more robust Italian than breezy Californian, but highlights like Angeleno’s meatballs ($22), served with wood-fired polenza and tomato sauce or the signature veal chop Parmigiana ($75), breaded, deepfried and served with red sauce and melted mozzarella are still worth a try. 20 Gemmill Ln., 6221-6986, www. angeleno.com.sg.
Izakayas may have lost their shiny new luster, but it seems like the concept isn’t fading away anytime soon. The Les Amis Group has a new laid-back Japanese eatery under its belt, with a varied menu of small plates, skewers, yakimono mains, salads, ramen and udon. While there’s a respectable list of sakes, shochu and beers on tap, it’s clear that the focus is on the food. Sample interesting selections such as the hiyashi chuka ramen ($12.80), with crab meat, salmon roe, shredded chicken and cold noodles; MBS 8 Wagyu namban ($15), spring onion wrapped with sliced Wagyu beef and kitsune natto ($3.50), fried tofu stuffed with fermented beans. #01-08/10 Owen Link, 1 Farrer Park Station Rd., 6443-1173, www.jinzakaya.com.sg.
Cheek by Jowl
Oxwell & Co.’s Rooftop Bar
The restaurant formerly known as Sorrel now has a new modern Australian concept, with chef Rishi Naleendra and his wife, Manuela Toniolo at the helm. The menu features a tapas-style inclination towards shareable plates and mains with seasonal ingredients like wild venison ($22) and braised rabbit ($24), and Naleendra’s signature duck and waffles dish which diners may remember from his time at Maca. 21 Boon Tat St., 6221-1911, www.cheekbyjowl.com.sg.
The three-storey gastrobar now houses an intimate rooftop bar on the fourth floor, boasting panoramic views of the CBD. The proudly-British theme extends here, with rustic furniture, a refurbished London telephone booth and a mini herb garden. The cocktail menu is designed exclusively with Hendrick’s Gin, and it revolves around botanical elements. Expect solid and refreshing G&T creations like Bathtime ($60), a cucumber and thyme punch bowl, and the Clover Club Street ($22). They are still tweaking their their cocktails at the moment—so for updates, check their Facebook. 5 Ann Siang Rd., 6438-3984, www.facebook.com/OxwellCo.
Empress Not to be left behind the recent wave of museum revamps, the Asian Civilisations Museum quietly launched a spanking new (and fancy) dining section. Contemporary Cantonese restaurant Empress, designed by Potato Head Folk’s Takenouchi Webb, is an airy 86-seater space overlooking the Singapore River with interiors featuring modern and chinoiserie elements. The place serves up traditional Cantonese dishes with a local twist, such as the triple roast platter ($28) with Spanish grain-fed Duroc pig, crackling roast pork and char siew; sweet and sour pork ($24) with aged vinegar and lychee and cempedak creme brulee with dried jackfruit ($13). #01-03 Asian Civilisations Museum, 1 Empress Place, 6238-8733, www.empress.com.sg.
Saha Modern Indian restaurant Saha may have exited their former Duxton Hill premises with nary a whisper, but here’s hoping that the National Gallery will serve as a better setting for Abhijit Saha’s inventive take on traditional Indian cuisine. It’s not a complete reinvention of regional Indian dishes, but there are interesting plates done up with molecular, deconstructed methods for both vegetarians and omnivores, like the kerala vegetable istew ($26) and kasoori methi seared foie gras ($36). And if you’re not quite sure about the concept, crowd-pleasers
like the vegetarian tandoori baked brie ($20), pan-seared kokum and pepper duck breast ($38) and Bengali-style red snapper curry ($32) should ease you into the experience. #01-03 National Gallery Singapore, 1 St. Andrew’s Rd., 6223-7321, www.saha.sg.
The Armoury Gastrobar Joining South Beach Quarter’s glittery lineup of slick bars and restaurants like Vanity and ADHA, is stylish gastro-bar The Armoury. The all-day establishment serves an elevated take on typical pub grub, like fries fried in duck fat ($8), gourmet sandwiches, burgers gussied up with ingredients like avocado and crispy pork belly, and English-cut beef short ribs braised in sweet port wine jus ($79). For drinks, there are craft beers from countries like Germany, the US and UK, cocktails, spirits, wines and Champagnes, and old favorites like whiskies, rum and gins from names like Hendrick’s, Monkey 47 and Mccallan. 36 Beach Rd., 63853173, www.facebook.com/SBQ.Armoury.
Whitegrass Chef-owner Sam Aisbett, who has worked with Sydney’s big-name chefs like Tetsuya Wakuda and Peter Gilmore, has launched a modern Australian-Asian fine dining restaurant at Chijmes. The tourist hot spot may seem like an unexpected location for this chi-chi venture, but it’s a refreshing addition to the area. Using native Australian ingredients, some of which are completely new to Singapore, Whitegrass offers degustation-only menus with five (from $170) or eight (from $265) course options featuring progressive plates such as slow cooked Mangalica pork and tiger abalone, with fermented cabbage, white turnip, fiddlehead fern, seaweed and pork broth; and Hokkaido scallops with pickled melon, pistachio and emu apple. Reservations are highly recommended here. #01-26/27 Chijmes, 30 Victoria St., 6837-0402, www.whitegrass.com.sg.
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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eats
B
asement bars, unmarked doors, secret staircases and other exciting concealments— there’s something about Singapore’s secret bars that make you feel in-the-know. These are the ones to note.
DRINK
Undercover Operation 10 secret bars in Singapore that will make you feel like an insider. By SG Staff Gibson
28 HongKong Street
The Horse's Mouth
One of Singapore's most famous bars (and a proud member of the World's 50 Best Bars list) has a completely unadorned entrance and blackout velvet drapes protecting the sexy, low-light vibe inside. Once you get in, though, the staff is friendly, the signature cocktails are lengthy and delicious, and the truffle mac n' cheese balls are the stuff of legend. Don't be that fool who takes flash photos or you will get schooled. 28 Hongkong St., www.28hks.com.
Whether it's using sake or other Japanese ingredients, the muted space is a backdrop for inventive concoctions. Even the interiors are subtle and discreet with splashes of color coming from the origamilike cascades by the wall. And if you're feeling hungry, order a bowl from Uma Uma Ramen upstairs. #B1-39 Forum The Shopping Mall, 583 Orchard Rd., 62351088, www.horsesmouthbar.com.
B28 Founded by Mike and Grace Soldner in 2012, this bar recently got a makeover when the hotel that houses it, The Club, changed ownership. Down a narrow, nondescript set of stairs off the lobby, this lowceiling-ed bar is all about whiskies (from $20 a dram), rum (from $18 a shot), and cocktails (from $20). Come and chill to the jazz music on Wednesdays and Thursday at 9 and 9:30pm respectively. B/F The Club, 28 Ann Siang Rd., 6808-2188, www.theclub.com.sg.
Bitters and Love Hidden among a row of shophouses, with an entrance behind Shoebox Canteen, this place sports a marble-topped bar and cocktails based on flavor profiles: fruity, sour, sweet or bitter ($17-23). Spoil yourself with the Rangers Valley 300-day grain-fed Wagyu beef cubes ($22). 118 Telok Ayer St., 6438-1836, www.bittersandlove.com.
Gibson Lepark
The Horse’s Mouth
28 HongKong Street
The folks at Jigger and Pony are behind Gibson, a cocktail and raw seafood bar that opened in October 2015. The entrance involves a low-lit walk down a snaking, dingy corridor and a short flight of stairs, and the decor looks like an upscale speakeasy, with marble top tables, a geometric stained glass bar facade and retro-chic glassware. The 60-cocktail menu is divided into Finding Comfort (easy classics), Forging Friendship (complex flavor combos) and Sharing Happiness (stuff to drink abundantly all night) and Reserve (made with top-shelf stuff). The house cocktail, The Gibson ($24), is a smooth mix of Hendrick’s, Monkey 47 and Dolin vermouth. 20 Bukit Pasoh Rd., 91148385, www.gibsonbar.sg.
The Great Escape Next time you finish a movie at The Projector, don't just run off to supper at Golden Mile. Do this instead: head toward the bathroom, take the side door, cut across the parking lot and walk until you see the glowing warm lights and the pleasant murmurs of chillness. Comprising the space of about 12 parking spaces is The Great Escape. On occasion, there's food like fried chicken and craft beers ranging from $13-19. Golden Mile Tower, 6001 Beach Rd., www.facebook.com/thegoldenbar.
The Secret Mermaid
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016
Lepark Located on the rooftop carpark of the cool People's Park Complex (there's this one set of staircases near the UOB ATMs, and a couple set of stairs up to the roof) which has seen pop-ups by the Edible Gardens folks, this fusion Asian tapas bar, beer garden, arts space and music venue is the epitome of cool. It's got bites like salted egg yolk soft shell crab sliders, salads with gula melaka and fried potato skins, as well as beers like Tin Rebel Full Nelson and Westmalle Dubbel. Plus, the space is the home of the "getai" series of local live music showcases. 6/F People's Park Complex, 1 Park Rd., 9658-9938, www.facebook.com/leparksg.
Operation Dagger Unlike other speakeasies in town, Oxwell and Co.’s hush-hush basement cocktail bar is serious about its secrecy. Their website is decidedly minimalist, and their Facebook page has no pictures or updates. All the more reason to feel extra cool when you’re down at the bare-walled, concrete-floored space, knocking back kooky cocktails from their omakase flight. Don’t miss the Egg, made with salted egg, vanilla and caramel. 7 Ann Siang Hill, 6438-4057, www.operationdagger.com.
The Secret Mermaid You'll have to be observant to head to this bar as only a non-descript, industrial sliding door and a little signage greets you at the front. It's a little squeeze on the inside, with one main bar counter (for a large group of six to eight). This bar serves classic cocktails like the Spiced Blueberry Mojito ($20), Salted Caramel Old Fashioned ($20). Bites include the dainty little tater tots drizzled with parmesan cheese ($5) and deviled eggs with wasabi topped with nori strips ($9). #B1-08 Ocean Financial Centre, 10 Collyer Quay, www.thesecretmermaid.com.
The Spiffy Dapper Walk up the stairs of the second floor at 73 Amoy Street and chill for some '20s jazz music. The bartenders Jez and Joyce will make some bespoke drinks (stiff but harmonious, often with a cocktail geek's touch, from $22) in town without any fanfare. 2/F 73A Amoy St., 8233-9810, www.spiffydapper.com.
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Holidays, hotels and insider travel news
21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
JAPAN
Go Local
Not far from Osaka and Kyoto, these three small towns around Kansai offer a more private escape. By Lily Kittisrikangwan. Photos by Chotima Sitthichaiviset and Gregoire Glachant Kanazawa Castle
Higashi Chaya District
Shirakawago
B
eyond the hustle and bustle of Osaka and Kyoto, three charming historical precincts—Kanazawa, Shirakawago and Takayama—offer plenty of sight-seeing opportunities and hidden gems. Here’s our guide on where to go and what to do:
Geisha, Ninjas and Samurai Kanazawa, a UNESCO City of Crafts and Folk Art, is the compact capital of Ishikawa Prefecture. Known as “Little Kyoto,” it is one of the best-preserved Edo towns in Japan, and offers plenty to explore. Grab a free map from the train station, hop on the tourist loop bus, and you’re good to go. A ride is 200 yen ($2.30), but we suggest you get a day pass that allows you to hop on and off as many times as you want, available on board at 500 yen ($5.70). DO Starting from the train station, head over to Higashi Chaya District by the Asano River. You can’t miss the beautifully preserved path lined with historic ochaya (teahouses) where geishas entertain their guests. Built back in 1820, Shima House is still open to the public and offers a rare glimpse at a traditional Japanese interior, old housewares and music instruments. Next stop is Kenrokuen Garden (entry costs 300 ($3.60)), right by Kanazawa Castle, which is considered one of Japan’s most picturesque gardens, with amazing cherry blossoms in the spring. It’s also nice in the fall when the leaves turn different shades of red. Not too far away is the striking 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, which exhibits contemporary pieces by local and international artists. Entrance is often free. In the southern part of the city you’ll find the former military outpost Myoryuji Temple, also known as Ninja Temple. You can only go inside with a pre-booked tour (in Japanese) to see its secret rooms and hidden passages. The nearby Nagamachi district, or Samurai District, is also a hit with tourists. Hungry? Kanazawa is also famous for its high-quality seafood, so make a stop at Omicho Market, its largest fresh food market with over 200 stalls. Although the market is busiest early in the morning, you can still get fresh oysters, scallops, and sashimi donburi most times of day. Note: many shops are closed on Sundays. One hot date to jot down is the first Saturday of June, when the Hyakuman-goku Festival sees the town’s annual parade take place with traditionally adorned residents dancing on the main street, and floating lanterns light up the Asanogawa River at night.
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STAY Accommodation is less exciting in Kanazawa, but it is a popular base for those looking to do day trips to nearby towns during busy festival seasons. There are several low-budget accommodation options close by the station like Toyoko Inn. For a traditional stay, check out www.yadotime.jp/english. GETTING THERE Thunderbird and Raicho limited express trains run from both Osaka and Kyoto to Kanazawa. You can also catch the extended Hokuriku Shinkansen-Nagano train to Kanazawa, which is only 2.5 hours from Tokyo.
Kenrokuen Garden
Slow Life in Shirakawago UNESCO World Heritage-listed Shirakawago is home to numerous gassho-zukuri (farmhouses) that are over 250 years old and can withstand very heavy snow in the winter. We suggest you visit Ogimachi, which is the biggest and by far the most visited village in the region. DO As you leave the bus station, walk across the bridge, where you’ll be greeted by old-style farmhouses, seemingly untouched by modern development. Take a stroll around the small village, and make a stop at Wada-ke House, the largest gassho open to the public. There are many small shops and stalls selling ramen, hida beef and rice sticks, and soft serve ice-cream, if you’re looking for a snack. Take the walking trail to the Shiroyama Observation Point, which offers the iconic panoramic view of the village that’s often shown on postcards. A great selfie spot, there are also photographers on-site offering to take high quality photographs, many of whom speak Thai. The best time to go is during the Light Up Festival, which takes place on selected dates at the end of January through February, when the snow-covered farmhouses are all lit up at night.
Traditional tea set
STAY Although you can cover the village comfortably within a day, a stay in one of the gassho guesthouses is an experience in itself. These lodgings are run by local families, offering simple and traditional accommodation, shared amenities and home-cooked meals for dinner and breakfast. If you want to stay overnight during the Light Up Festival, be sure to book in advance. Go to www.japaneseguesthouses.com to make bookings; popular choices include Koemon and Magoemon farmhouses. GETTING THERE Shirakawago is only accessible from Kanazawa and Takayama via the Nohi Bus that operates a few times a day. Check out the schedule at www.nouhibus.co.jp. There are also day-trip tours covering this region which connect the town to the larger cities
in the region.
escapes GRAND OPENING Noku Roxy Kyoto
Premium Luxury Room
Overview: The first in a new line of boutique hotels from the group behind Katong’s Grand Mercure Roxy Hotel (they’re also lining up a Phuket property for 2018), this newly refurbished 81-room spot, mere yards away from the grounds of Kyoto’s Imperial Palace, opened in November 2015.
Takayama
Design: It’s a subtle, quiet spot, with low lighting and wood highlights: very much a modern boutique take on classical Japan. Drawing on Kyoto’s rich history, each room features individually curated artwork and, unlike many properties in Japan (especially in this price bracket), the rooms aren’t small, running from 215 to 550 sq ft. Japanese ryokan
Gifu Hida-Away Takayama is a mountainous city in the Gifu Prefecture, also known as Hida-Takayama. Famous for its Autumn and Spring Float Festivals, and delicious hida beef, the city is ideal for exploring on foot. DO
Ten minutes from the JR Train you’ll find Jinya-mae Market, which lines the street in front of the Government House, and the slightly bigger Miyagawa Market on the bank of the Miyagawa River. Starting from 6:30am, both markets sell simple organic produce, pickles, dango snacks and craft products. The nearby Old Town is a must-see: three historic lanes lined with old homes, small stores selling sake, miso paste, coffee and other traditional delicacies. Be sure to visit Sannomachi Street. If a rickshaw ride is too expensive for you, some hotels do provide bicycle rental. Takayama’s famous hida beef can be found at stalls all over town: on sticks, in buns and in ramen. Another treat you don’t want to miss is the sukune kabocha (pumpkin pudding in black honey) at Le Midi takeaway booth, next
Kanazawa
to the upscale French restaurant of the same name. Takayama gets most crowded during Takayama Matsuri, a parade held once in April and once in October, which features beautifully decorated floats. If you just want to get away from it all, take the Higashiyama Walking Path, which takes in many small temples, shrines and old ruins. Staying at a traditional Japanese ryokan (guesthouse) is a must. In Takayama there are many small family-run ryokans and larger commercial ones. Although on the pricey side, a package stay at the popular Oyado Yamakyu is great as it also houses its own onsen (public hot bath). Take this opportunity to wear a yukata and also indulge in a locally sourced, homemade 10 course Japanese dinner that comes with a delicious hida beef hot pot.
Kyo-Suiran
GETTING THERE
Takayama is accessible via the Nohi Bus, with regular trains running from big cities in the region from Kanazawa, to Kyoto and Osaka.
GETTING THERE Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) fly direct to Osaka Kansai International Airport, with prices starting from $710 return. With a two hour stopover in KL, you can get there from $350 return with AirAsia (www.airasia.com). Kyoto is an hour and 10 minutes north of Osaka on the train. The best way to see these smaller towns is to get the Takayama-Hokuriku 5-Day Tourist Pass at 10,500 yen ($127), which gets you unlimited travel on JR trains between Osaka, Kanazawa, Takayama and Nagoya. It also includes bus travel on the Nohi buses to Shirakawago.
Rant: Our fault, but we didn’t get to try inhouse steak restaurant Kyou, simply because there are too many great spots, including one of the city’s best soba restaurants, the Michelin-starred Kanei, in the neighborhood. Price: From JPY 20,000 ($240)/night. www.nokuroxy.com. RIC STOCKFIS
GRAND OPENING Suiran Kyoto
STAY
ESSENTIALS
EXCHANGE RATE $1 = 82 yen
Rave: While it’s fun to spend a night or two in a traditional ryokan, it was a pleasure to stretch out in a spacious room with Western beds and decent showers. Coffee at the
in-house café was great, and the staff (including the kimono-clad GM himself) were particularly helpful in making dinner recommendations and reservations (they also have an app for e-concierge services, but we never needed it). The central location is also a real boon for sightseeing, with the Marutamachi subway station right next door and both Nijo Castle and Nishijin Textile District a short walk away.
Hot spring bath
Overview: Open since early 2015, this new addition to Starwood’s Luxury Collection takes up residence on the former site of an imperial villa, on the banks of the Hozu River in Western Kyoto’s Arashiyama district. It backs onto World Heritage temple Tenryuji and the famed Bamboo Forest, and the garden looks out directly over the river to the wooded hills beyond. It’s a truly stunning setting (especially in spring or fall as the leaves change color), and a world away from the hordes of tourists who trek out to this charming part of the city.
Design: While the site itself has a history stretching back more than a millennium, the hotel has been built around a centuryold Meiji-era villa (that now houses the restaurant) and an equally distinguished house, once a gathering place of poets (where you’ll now find the café). The 39 rooms, 17 of which feature their own private open-air hot spring bath, have been tastefully integrated into the site: the whole thing feels like you’ve set up home in a private palace. Even better, you can lap up the luxury while still getting an authentic experience in one of the traditional Japanese rooms, complete with tatami mats and futon. Rave: Looking out over that river takes some beating, but it’s even better over dinner at restaurant Kyo-Suiran, which brings French influence to traditional Japanese Kaiseki and Teppanyaki. And the two in-house spa treatment rooms, one featuring a cypress bathtub, the other one made from stone, are a pretty good place to put your feet up: Kyoto may be one of the world’s great walking cities, but after your fourth World Heritage site of the day (there are 17 in total) you’re going to want a rest. Rant: Arashiyama really is a beautiful place and a real change from downtown Kyoto, but it does put you a long way from some of the major sights. There’s a nearby train line connecting you with the center in only 20 minutes or so, but taxis to and fro, especially after a meal downtown, aren’t going to come cheap. Price: From JPY 70,000 ($854)/night, excluding 10% tax and 8% service charge. www.suirankyoto.com. RIC STOCKFIS
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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escapes
Anantara Phuket Layan
THAILAND
Phuket Redux
6 new reasons to head back to the popular Thai island. By SG and BK Editorial. The Avenue
Layan Stadium
1
In-house Muay Thai classes at one of the island’s top resorts
Tucked away on a secluded stretch of beach in the northwest of the island, understated luxury spot Anantara Phuket Layan recently added its own Muay Thai ring, named “Layan Stadium”. Just under half the size of a regular ring, it’s a great place to get an introduction to this trendy martial art, with private, hour-long classes starting from THB2,500++ ($100), up to THB22,400 ($880) for a five-day couple’s course, including ringside seats at a fight at Patong Stadium. The in-house Anantara Spa, with its seven treatment rooms, is also a great place to recover after your training session. The resort has 30 rooms and suites and a further 47 pool villas, but if you just can’t get enough of Phuket, they also just launched four (of an eventual 15) exclusive pool residences (for holiday stays or purchase), each with its own 21 meter infinity pool. You’ll currently get 20% resort credit if you book a stay through www.anantara.com.
2
A brand new beach club
Nikki Beach may have closed, but it looks like Phuket’s beach club scene is stepping up its game. Following the recent opening of Skye Beach Club, comes Dream Beach (www.dreambeachclub.com). This luxurious, multi-level beach club actually takes over the space departed by Nikki Beach, only five minutes’ drive from Anantara. Officially opened in December, the style can be described as sexy cosmopolitan, similar to that of the other Dream locations, so expect to see neon lights against crisp white sunbeds and chaise lounges surrounding the club’s two swimming pools. The club is laidback and loungey during the day before becoming more flashy after dark, moving the crowd up to its rooftop bar and nightclub. Hungry? The menu sticks to the high-end them and includes a THB30,000 ($1,180) wagyu burger, topped with foie gras and served in a gold leaf bun. It’s served with a bottle of Dom Perignon Champagne.
3
A bootcamp for a good cause
Next time you’re in Phuket, stop by Nai Harn beach near Rawai to get a workout in and to do some good. Clean The Beach Bootcamp occurs every other Saturday at 10am, and consists of a fun fitness class by the ocean followed by some cool-down yoga. Sessions are free, as long as everyone agrees to put on a pair of gloves and pick up some beachside trash afterwards. The founder, fitness professional Krix Luther, launched the bi-monthly event after noticing that the growing trash on the beach was making finding a spot for his regular bootcamps nearly impossible. Interested participants can check the schedule on their Facebook page at ow.ly/OYKbf.
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4
Rustic charm and French toast
Rustic-style bar and restaurant The Avenue (46/11 Moo 5 Vichit, www.facebook.com/theavenuephuket) is the latest addition to Central Phuket’s drinking and dining scene. Open from 7am-midnight, it serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Start the day with fuss-free choices like French toast with seasonal fruit or middle-back bacon, sausage and grilled tomatoes on homemade bread served with two eggs. Lunch spans sandwiches, salads and burgers. Come dinnertime the menu turns local, offering Thai dishes such as the yum kai yarng (spicy salad with grilled chicken,) and seafood tom yam. Drinks jump from French press coffee during the day to serious cocktails and a good selection craft beers. Happy hour takes place every Wednesday and Thursday from 5-8pm, with buy-one-get-one on all cocktails. Menu items run from around THB120-200 ($4.70-7.80).
5
A classy jazz joint
When Saxophone (41/3 Chana-Charoen Rd., Talat Yai, www.saxophonephuket.com), one of Bangkok’s oldest and best-loved jazz bars, opened up on Phuket last year, it brought with it the same low-key, red-brick vibe and high calibre of music (the guys on sax, clarinet and piano can seriously play). Open since 1987, the original is a best known for its jazzy offerings led by Koh Mr. Saxman and well-executed cocktail menu. Stick to the reasonably priced beer and whisky, order up some fried drinking snacks and enjoy.
6
Thai tapas in Phuket Town
The founders of Phuket Town’s super-hip Quip Bed & Breakfast and Quip Sky Bar recently opened Quiplicious (at the intersection between Montri Rd and Soi Surin, Talat Yai, www.facebook.com/quiplicious), a standalone restaurant serving tiny Thai tapas plates balanced out by massive drinks. The must-try is the Quiplicious set (THB380/$15), which includes an assortment of bite-size Asian-inspired appetizers such as moo ping (grilled pork skewers), red chicken curry and salmon with wasabi served on a banana leaf. But if bitesize Thai isn’t your thing, hit the cafe up during breakfast for scrambled eggs served in a bacon bowl (THB90/$3.55), or sunny-side up in a thin toast bowl (THB50/$2). Drinks throw Thai herbs into the mix, such as the Magic Drink THB85/$3.35), a naturally-sweet butterfly pea base zested up with honey and lime, or the Super Bowl (THB120/$4.70), a potently sour combo of Asian citrus fruits and soda water served in a giant fishbowl. We also love that the wood-dominated space is decked out with all sorts of nostalgic bric-a-brac, ranging from vintage Thai dolls to old-school lunch boxes.
Saxophone
ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Tigerair (www.
tigerair.com) and Air Asia (www.airasia. com) have return flights for between $65 and $90. Silkair (www.silkair.com) can get you there and back for around $190.
The Avenue
last word
Pooja Nansi Poet Pooja Nansi is an established name in the Singapore literary scene. A teacher and writer-in-residence at NTU, she is the author of two collections of poetry and the organizer of the wildly popular Speakeasy poetry series at Artistry. Her poetic stage show, You are Here, is opening at the Esplanade Apr 19-20. Here she tells Mrigaa Sethi about being a first-generation Singaporean and what’s wrong with poetry in Singapore.
I’m first-generation Singaporean. I came here when I was one. I have less in common than one might think with a lot of my Tamil Singaporean friends who are third- or fourthgeneration. But when I meet new immigrants, I feel really Singaporean. Every time I hear Singlish, it sings to my heart the way Hindi does. So it’s weird: I feel like I’m not here, I’m not there.
There’s a Simon Tay poem, “Singapore Night Song,” and the last two lines are: “If you cannot love / (yes, love) this city / you have no other.” If I don’t belong here, where do I belong? I don’t really have anywhere else.
The Speak Good English Movement has it wrong. Singlish isn’t bad English. It’s a whole other pidgin of its own. It’s so succinct, efficient and “How are you going untranslatable. There’s nothing that will to be creative if you’re make you feel more connected to another Singaporean than speaking Singlish.
I grew up in the East. My first memory is of these little apartments across Katong Shopping Centre called too scared to fail?” Rose Gardens, now demolished. My I’ve wanted to be a teacher since I was favorite place in the world is Parkway three. I would teach my dolls, put them Parade. I have memories of going there at every stage of in a row and have class. I got into teaching straight out of my life. university. It’s the hardest job, and it’s also most fulfilling. When I was 18, I went to my first club. It was called But when I became head of department, the management Kilimanjaro’s at Boat Quay. It’s now a seafood restaurant. aspect took over the teaching aspect. I was going into class It was really small, really dingy. It had a fake paper mache without having to think about it. And that’s dangerous. I volcano in a corner and the seats were in leopard print. The didn’t want to get to a point where I was a bad teacher. I only people in this club were brown people—Malay kids, took a break. Indian kids. And they played hip hop and gangster rap. You will not find a Singaporean Indian my age who has not gone to a hip hop club. Gangster rap at the time is so political and so about marginalization that it doesn’t surprise me that it appealed to the minority races here.
Poetry in Singapore is happening in a bubble. For such a small place, we’re saturated with poets, and there’s a real love for it, but the average Singaporean doesn’t have poetry or literature on their radar. It’s being taught quite poorly in some schools.
I’m not an expat. It’s not like I grew up anywhere else. I went to primary school here. I learned Malay. I speak Malay fluently. I know all the national day songs from the 80s. So this is home.
The study of literature as a discipline teaches you real technical, hard skills, like reading critically, dealing with ambivalence and understanding complicated arguments.
I don’t like being called Indian Singaporean. Why do you need to qualify that I’m an Indian Singaporean? Why is Chinese the Times New Roman of what being Singaporean means?
When I encountered kids doing their A Levels, they could not understand how you could love someone and loathe them at the same time, or completely agree with one aspect of an argument but find the rest rubbish. It’s really
THAT’S WHAT SHE SAID
hard for them to understand that kind of nuance because they’re not exposed to it enough. We don’t value imagination and stories. We only value them when we need them. We say, “Oh no, we’re not creative people! How can we teach our kids to be creative people? How can we teach people entrepreneurship?” For all our diversity, we’re such a homogenous society. We’re so afraid to be different. There’s a genuine fear of not fitting in or not going down the correct path. Failure is key to creativity. How are you going to be creative if you’re too scared to fail? Not everybody wants to keep climbing. Not everybody wants to be a principal. Some people just want to teach. The case against the Sticker Lady, Sam Lo, was so awful. On one hand you say, “Let’s teach creativity.” But that’s what happens when people are creative. I don’t take things for granted. I have a friend who used to teach in a trailer in the American South. They would not give her money for paper. That would never happen here. That’s the reality of systems, though. Some things work, but you give up other things for them to work. I can walk here at 4am and I feel safe, but it’s not like the excitement and vibrancy of walking down the East Village at 4am. That kind of uncontrolled creativity would never happen here. I wish we would stop looking at art as just a utilitarian thing, and stop asking “What does this piece of art do for society? What does it say about national narrative?”
by Kathy Macleod
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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