SG Magazine, May 20 by SG Magazine

w w w. s g n o w. s g | M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r

Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks

700 issues!

S G M AG A Z I N E | I SS U E #700 | M AY 20, 2016

what’s on what’s new what matters

An accountant by day, Yip Yew Chong has been decorating city walls with his nostalgic murals, like this one in Everton Road. See ART , page 7, for an interview.

CITYSCAPE

NEIGHBORHOOD

TRAVEL

INTERVIEW

21 Years of Singapore Lifestyle

Robertson Quay Revival

Southern Taiwan Highlights

A Yellow Bird at Cannes

SINGAPORE - PENANG - SINGAPORE 4 - 7 NOVEMBER 2016

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page 3

5 gritty films international critics will love 14

cityscape

21 Years of Singapore Lifestyle 6 nightlife

7 art

Keong Saik Carnival

Singapore’s Resident Muralist

8 music

16 neighborhood

Upcoming Concerts

New on Robertson Quay

1. The Queue Modeled after Beckett’s absurdist play Waiting for Godot, this existentialist film follows an endless night in the lives of four strangers trapped in a queue for the opening of a very important venue: the Hello Kitty Cafe at Changi Airport. As night slips into day, our characters watch travellers enter and exit the airport and wonder about the futility of their lives.

18 food

19 tech

Restaurants Older Than You

Food Delivered by Grab

20 travel

22 interview

Southern Taiwan

Going to Cannes

Editorial Managing Editor Mrigaa Sethi editor@asia-city.com.sg Features Editor Chelsia Tan Contributing Editor Kurt Ganapathy Design Associate Art Director Carmen Louise Ho Senior Designer Fishy Toh Designer Carmen Chua

Where to find us! Bangkok Asia City Media Group 9/F, Room A, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand Tel: 66-2-624 9696 Fax: 66-2-237 5656 bkmagazine@asia‑city.co.th

2. The Haze In a bleak month in 2015, when Singapore is paralyzed by a mysterious haze, one woman must beat the odds to get to brunch with her friends on Dempsey Hill. Taking an unwavering look at Singapore’s vulnerability to environmental calamities, The Haze is also a testament to our enduring humanity in the face of inexorable change. 3. Nervous Breakdown One man is on his way to drown his sorrows after another miserable day at the office. Another is on his way to meet the former love of his life. But fate has something else planned for them. The date is Dec 15, 2011 and they are on the North-South Line. Lost in the midst of the worst MRT disruption in living memory, they search for answers, but find each other.

Who's in charge? Publisher & General Manager Ric Stockfis countrymanager@asia-city.com.sg

If Singapore’s representatives at the Cannes Film Festival this week are anything to go by, international critics love Singapore’s grit and underbelly. The glitz and glam, not so much. Between Boo Junfeng and K. Rajagopal, all the ace stuff (race riots, death penalty, drug trafficking and prostitution) is taken. But fear not, there’s plenty of grit in Singapore for all you aspiring filmmakers. Here are some ideas for your next elevator pitch.

Advertising Director, Business Development Intan Agustina advertising@asia-city.com.sg

Finance Senior Finance Associate Nai Rohmat finance@asia-city.com.sg

Senior Manager, Media & Marketing Shernan Plameras Manager, Media & Marketing Lee Wee Keong Junior Executive, Media & Marketing Sharon Leong

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Marketing Marketing Manager Silver Adrienna Ng marketing@asia-city.com.sg

Group Digital Director Greg Duncan gduncan@asia‑city.com.sg

Group Directors Chief Executive Officer Gretchen Worth gworth@asia‑city.co.th

On the cover Mural painting by Yip Yew Chong

4. The Life and Times of Lim Yew Hock Jeddah, 1984. A mysterious man lies on his deathbed remembering the days of his life. He recalls his battles against communists, his decision to “give away” Christmas Island to Australia, his electoral thrashing at the hands of a young Lee Kuan Yew, his disappearance in Canberra, his alleged connection with a 19-year-old stripper from Sydney and his conversion to Islam. He is Singapore’s enigmatic second Chief Minister, Lim Yew Hock. 5. China Wine: A Journey Against All Odds In 2007, the immensely talented Sun Ho became a breakout global hip hop star. But few know the journey that got her there. In a musical film destined for the feminist canon, one determined woman struggles to maintain the integrity of her art against the evil lure of money and the pressure of the men who want only to profit from her talent.

Who are we?

Published every two weeks (with daily updates at sgnow.sg), SG (previously I-S) delivers honest, independent and irreverent coverage of the Singapore lifestyle scene. We’ve been recommending what to do and where to go here for 21 years—and we’ve never been more excited about the city than we are right now.

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Fashion, fitness, tech and more SG Magazine is published 24 times a year by Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd., 211 Henderson Road, #07‑02, Singapore 159552. Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 • Fax: 65‑6323‑2779. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. The titles “SG Magazine”, “I-S Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of SG Magazine and I-S Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. SG Magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Contact the Publisher for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in SG Magazine must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by KHL Printing Co. Pte. Ltd., 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968. ISSN 0218‑8872 MCI (P) 166/12/2015

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FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016 SG MAGAZINE

up front

Our biweekly study of the city’s burgeoning (and dying) trends

SPARKS

Funzing

HOT OR NOT

Singapore’s latest news, numbers and dramas at a glance

Hot: Community yoga

Not: Commercialized yoga

Singapore Tourism Board

It’s no secret that this spiritual practice has become a huge and saturated global trend. Thankfully, in the spirit of community, yoga events like Free Yoga in Little India (May 22) and Pop Up Yoga: Fort Canning Park (May 21) are offering free or affordable public sessions respectively, sans the flashy Lululemons and costly membership fees.

Hot: Robertson Quay hotels Not: Marina Bay Sands Shoppes

You may know Nithiya N. through her popular pop-up food series, Brunch Bandits, which has brought Ethiopian food to Spiffy Dapper and a barbecue party to the farms of Kranji. Now, the young Singaporean is tackling a new project. On May 22, she will lead both residents of Little India and migrant workers in a free outdoor yoga event on Hindoo Road, the first of what she hopes will become a regular series. How did this initiative get started? I was in Bali, had just finished a yoga session, and got on to Facebook. It was filled with opinion pieces on a Jalan Besar MP's concern over large gatherings of foreign workers in Little India. And everything just connected. I mean, my grandfather was a migrant from South Asia. Access to activities that promote mental and physical health can be so cost prohibitive in cities like Singapore. What will be the challenges of keeping the series going? To get a permanent space in Little India that we will be able to use long-term to hold regular bi-monthly Sunday morning sessions. And people. To build that community of instructors to volunteers to co-organizers, willing to give their time and energy,

Hot: New HDB towns

Not: Old HDB towns

In a recent announcement by National Development Minister Lawrence Wong, up-and-coming residential development Tengah new town will be located next to Jurong Innovation District. It joins other HDB projects like Bidadari and Tampines North, which is said to offer 90,000 homes altogether. Sadly, Singapore’s constant urban renewal also means mature estates like Dakota Crescent, Rochor Centre, and blocks 246 to 249 in Ang Mo Kio are making way for new developments.

OB INDEX Charting the ups and downs of Singapore's openness, tolerance and freedom of expression MAY

Pink Dot released its third and final minidocumentary highlighting everyday heroes in the LGBT community, and like the two others before it, it went viral on social media. Revolving around a young gay man AJ and his mother Honey Bee, the video begins with a traditional coming out story before arriving at the second revelation that AJ is HIV-positive. This year's Pink Dot video campaign has touched on some of the under-discussed issues in Singapore's LGBT community. While NGOs such as Action for AIDS are active in Singapore, with a few exceptions, the subject of HIV/AIDS is not often discussed. Pink Dot spokesperson Paerin Choa said, "AJ's HIV positive status, while not the main focus of the video, is something that is an important part of [the] story; it also highlights an actual struggle faced by some members of the LGBT community."

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

who can take the lead when I am away, so the circle doesn't break, so to speak. How can people participate? Register on freeyoga.peatix.com and turn up on May 22, 7:45am with open hearts. If you have a mat or can get one, please bring it. If you don't, we have a limited number available for your use. We are also taking donations of second hand mats. Insurgence SQ has very kindly offered their Dunlop Street space for a soup kitchen after the yoga session and we aim to give away a hundred meals. So if you are a restaurant, catering company or distributor interested to sponsor healthy, vegetarian meals, and water or coconut water, please get in touch! There have been a lot of migrant workerrelated activities lately. Do you worry they might be tokenistic? The amazing thing is that so many of these activities are being organized by young Singaporeans! It does seem to be very much a cause that has captured the attention of many in recent times. Do they really impact real change for the migrant workers? I do not know. For me, it is about trying to chip away at imaginary walls and inherent biases, to overlap social circles on the same level playing field, on Hindoo Road.

To participate in the Free Yoga in Little India sessions, head to www.facebook.com/tekkayoga.

BE GOOD

Erwin Soo

Robertson Quay has always taken a backseat to the more vibrant Clarke Quay but now there are four new hotels opening along this residential stretch—M Social Singapore, Four Points by Sheraton Singapore, The Warehouse Hotel and Intercontinental Singapore Robertson Quay. (More on page 16.) While we’re watching these exciting developments unveil, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands could be facing an uncertain future after an announcement that it might be put up for sale by owner Las Vegas Sands after its 10-year duopoly expires next year.

Celebrating the city’s entrepreneurs, start-ups and innovative thinkers

NUMEROLOGY

$35,000

Upgrading budget allocated per HDB shop under the Revitalisation of Shops scheme, which has been raised from $20,000.

Number of blocks in Ang Mo Kio Avenues 2 and 3 to be demolished in February 2017 to make way for new residential developments.

Support a campaign promoting heart health awareness Join a 3.5km fun walk happening at Marina Bay Waterfront Promenade on Jun 25 from 7-11am and help support The Go Red for Women campaign, which aims to educate women on heart health awareness and the prevention of cardiovascular disease. Registration fees range from $15 for individuals to $25 for a pair. More information at www. pledgeyourheartwalk.sg.

100 to 300 Estimated number of bicycle parking spaces at new MRT Stations, an increase from 40 to 100 at older stations in Singapore.

$1.9 million Total amount awarded to SBS Transit and SMRT for improving bus waiting times between Jun and Nov 2016, under the Bus Service Reliability Framework (BSRF) trial. Source: The Straits Times, Today

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FRIDAY, APRIL 8, 2016 SG MAGAZINE

now

The essential guide to what's on in Singapore

Explore the madness of this Indonesian artist Heri Dono’s zany, politicallycharged and wildly colorful exhibition Zaman Edan is now on show at STPI. Meaning “The Age of Craziness” the show will have guided tours Tuesdays and Thursdays (11am) and Saturdays (2:30pm). Through Jun 25. Singapore Tyler Print Institute. 41 Robertson Quay, www.stpi. com.sg. Free.

Try the new heritage trail in Bedok

The National Heritage Board has added yet another self-led heritage trail to its arsenal. The Bedok Heritage Trail will transport you back in time to the era before the development of the East Coast area; a time when the colony’s wealthiest inhabitants resided in waterfront bungalows alongside fishing villages. With 10 markers spread along a 15km route, you’ll discover Bedok’s long history, from its kampung beginning to its key role in the East Coast Reclamation Scheme. More info at www.roots.sg.

Long Beach Seafood

EXPLPORE

PARTY

Dance, drink and shop the day away on Keong Saik Street Hot on the heels of some serious, government-blessed street parties, Potato Head Folk is rolling out the Keong Saik Carnival, with support from the Singapore Tourism Board's YourSingapore campaign. The all-day party will involve a street market with vendors like Gallery & Co., Kapok and Magpie as well as food by Lime House. On the musical front, there are a slew of DJs on the roster, some of them all-vinyl, and a performance by The Observatory. May 28, Keong Saik Street, www.facebook.com/ potatoheadfolk.

SHOPPING

Spend the day rifling through a garage sale

The sixth edition of the Great Singapore Garage Sale is back at Goodman Arts Centre, with an all-day extravaganza of beer, food stalls, trinkets & jewelry, affordable fashion and a bunch of garden games. May 22, 10am-6pm, 90 Goodman Rd., www.facebook.com/thegsgs.

FOOD

SPORT

CONCERT Jake Marsiglia

ART

Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg

Visit the afterlife with FlyLo

American producer Flying Lotus is coming to Sentosa. Mixing hip-hop with jazz, prog and ambient and working with diverse artists like Herbie Hancock and Snoop Dogg, this West Coast boy wonder will take you on a sonic trip through death and the afterlife with his album You’re Dead. May 26, Suntec Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Raffles Blvd, www.apactix. com. $98-120.

NETWORKING

Heckle sailors at this annual regatta

The annual DBS Marina Regatta is back with even more sailing un-related activities than ever before! If you’re not into watching ripped dragon boaters duke it out, you can enjoy an urban beach, shop at a pop-up market by The Local People and gorge on a hotdog cook off by Bjorn Shen et al. at the festival’s Chow House. There are also biking and canoeing events and lots of other stuff to sign up for. May 29-Jun 5, The Promontory @ Marina Bay, www.dbsbythebay.com. Free.

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

8 Attend a pig roast at Kampong Bugis’s newest restaurant The club may have shut down at Kilo, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t other ways to party. The leafy little building’s newest venture, Camp Kilo Charcoal Club is opening this month, serving all kinds of meat slow-roasted over openair woodfire grills and plenty of veg-friendly sides. Kilo, 88 Kampong Bugis, www.facebook.com/campkilosg.

Spend the day learning to live and work consciously

The conscious/sustainable business gathering is back at The Working Capitol later this year, but ahead of that, they’re doing a half-day event. The Green is the New Black Popup runs from 10am-3pm and features yoga workshops, a marketplace of local makers, delicious bites from local food entrepreneurs, motivational talks and lots more. Most events are free, though some have a small fee. May 28, Working Capitol, 1 Keong Saik St., gitnbpopup16.peatix.com. $5-25.

now ART The murals of Yip Yew Chong

Annie Leibovitz

PHOTOGRAPHY

Yip Yew Chong

Everton Road

Seng Poh Lane

FOOD

Cavort through a Japanese matsuri

Part of the Japanese arts festival at the Esplanade, WAttention’s Super Japan Matsuri is a street food event will have stalls manned by Japanese chefs serving authentic dishes like takoyaki, yakisoba and okonomiyaki, as well as Japanese draft beer, shochu highball and sake cocktails. To add to the festivities, there will also be traditional games like shateki, or shooting game, and wanage, also known as ring toss. May 20-22, Esplanade—Theatres on the Bay, www.esplanade.com.

Everton Road

If you haven’t seen it yet, this weekend is your last chance to catch Misty Copeland, Caitlyn Jenner, Gloria Steinem (pictured) and other amazing women in Annie Leibovitz’s Women: New Portraits which is moving on to Hong Kong. Until May 22. Tanjong Pagar Railway Station, 30 Keppel Rd., bit.ly/1s6C3d6. Free.

Elizabeth Phung

Make a quick trip to Tanjong Pagar Railway Station

PARTY

Dance to some serious, tropical beats

One of our favorite dance party series, Tropical Temple is turning two with an all-day birthday party at Kult Kafe. Regular DJs Bhayology and Kusto are joined by Tom Shellsuit, Gonzo and lots of other people for hours of African, Latin and Caribbean beats in the great outdoors. May 21, 3pm onwards. Kult Kafe, 11 Upper Wilkie Rd., www.facebook.com/tropicaltemple. $5.

w w w. s g n o w. s g | M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r

Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks

700 issues!

S G M AG A Z I N E | I SS U E #700 | M AY 20, 2016

what’s on what’s new what matters

An accountant by day, Yip Yew Chong has been decorating city walls with his nostalgic murals, like this one in Everton Road. See ART , page 7, for an interview.

Cover Up SG Magazine covers celebrate local artists, photographers and illustrators and their remarkable depictions of Singapore. They look so good, we’ve even started hanging them on our walls.

CITYSCAPE

NEIGHBORHOOD

TRAVEL

INTERVIEW

21 Years of Singapore Lifestyle

Robertson Quay Revival

Southern Taiwan Highlights

A Yellow Bird at Cannes

You may have seen Yip Yew Chong's works on the streets of Singapore. He has decorated walls in Spottiswoode Park Road, Everton Road, Sultan Gate and, most recently, Tiong Bahru with his impressive, large-scale, nostalgic murals of uncles, aunties, bird cages, barber shops and provision shops. An accountant by day, YC has been commissioned by small businesses and resident communities to bring life to their streets. Here he tells us about his love of painting scenes from years past, his extensive travels and why he won't quit his day job. How did you choose the images you would do for each of your murals? I first look at the site and its surroundings. Then I try to imagine a mural scene that will be very relevant and meaningful to the site and also blend in well with its surroundings; best if it can even "speak" and tell a story about the place. I will avoid painting a mural image that is just nice on its own but sticks out like an irrelevant sore thumb and dominate its neighbours.

You've done a bird cage mural in Tiong Bahru. What are the other two you're working on now? I've already revealed the theme of the second mural on my Facebook page. It will depict the inside of a typical home in the area in the old days. The third mural will be a scene from the old Tiong Bahru Pasar.

What kinds of clients engage you to do murals? I don't really call them "clients" but sponsors and What kinds of things do you use for appreciators of my art style. In fact, for the Choa reference? Kim Keat Garage and Tiong Bahru, I approached I observe scenes and things in Malaysian heritage towns like Melaka, Ipoh, Teluk Intan and the owner/resident committee with a proposal rather than the other way round. Requests Penang where I can really soak in the nostalgic and enquiries come from both private and mood. I feel that Singapore's historic places are government-linked organisations, commercial too sanitized (e.g. Joo Chiat, Chinatown, Little India etc), so I look up websites for old photos of businesses and residential homes. Singapore to refresh my memories of how the You travel a lot. Do you think a visual scenes and objects used to look like. artist’s experience of travel is different than most people’s? Your murals seem to be all about nostalgic things, like provision shops and uncles with I can't speak for visual artists in general. I personally pay attention to scenes and the bird cages. I started with the nostalgic "Barber" and "Amah" atmospheres more than the fun of an activity or savoring food. I am not a foodie and eat in Everton Road and since then, have been almost everything everywhere. I also like to take pigeon-holed with heritage themed murals. I photographs during travel (in a way capturing personally like nostalgic stuff, perhaps because scenes), but I own a point and shoot compact of my age! The images were inspired by a camera and iPhone as they are more handy and mixture of my childhood memories, references candid. I only focus on composition of a scene to archived photos of old Singapore, and oral and don't know much about other technicalities. history from requestors. I think many people of my age miss those scenes because Singapore Do you think you’ll ever quit accounting and just moves too fast but our hearts linger on work on art full-time? things we have fond memories of. Not at this moment. I'll like to continue with my long-time career in finance and keep art as a hobby free from bread and butter ties, then my art will be more progressive and beautiful. When I retire, I can do art full-time at a higher level. Yip Yew Chong is working on two more murals around Tiong Bahru. Check out the work-inprogress at 74 Tiong Poh Rd. For more about YC and his art, visit his website. MRIGAA SETHI

To suggest someone we should feature or to partner with us on this initiative, email editor@asia-city.com.sg

FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016 SG MAGAZINE

now Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg

Erik Kessels

ART

DRINK

Celebrate the return of The Great Escape Cozy, unpretentious but cool bars with exciting crowds are hard to come by, which is why we’re thrilled that The Great Escape, aka the parking lot bar behind The Projector, is back after a two-month long hiatus. Head over any night Thu-Sun and see what’s new. 5/F, Golden Mile Tower, 6001 Beach Rd., www.facebook. com/thegoldenbar.

Show up to the Big Bang

You’ll recall that the last opening at the ArtScience Museum, of Future World, was the Instagram profile pic opportunity of the decade. They’ve got a new show opening this month, Big Bang Data, which turns the vasts amount of digital data flying around in the world (selfies, searches, emails, etc.) into installations and contemporary art pieces. The following weekend, there’s an edition of ArtScience Late, with a piece by sonic artist Bani Haykal. May 21-Oct 16 & May 28. ArtScience Museum, 10 Bayfront Ave., www.marinabaysands.com/ArtScienceMuseum.

MARKET

Shop for arty knick-knacks while drinking Danish beers

Deck, Singapore's shipping container-inspired photography gallery, is organizing Open Deck, a two-day party marketplace involving arts and craft workshops, lots of food stalls and photography. Deck, you’ll recall, is also the site of the brand new Mikkeller beer bar, so if you haven’t been yet, this is a great excuse. May 21, www.facebook.com/thegoldenbar.

WELLNESS

Do some community yoga

Yoga collective Urban Yogis have rolled out a series of pop-up, outdoor yoga sessions throughout the city. There’s Pop Up Yoga over at Fort Canning on May 21, and another session at Hong Lim Park the following weekend (May 28). It’s $5 to participate, but you have to book ahead as no walk-ins will be accepted. May 21 & 28, various venues, www.facebook.com/ urbanyogissg. For another community yoga event in Little India, turn to Upfront, page 4.

FILM

Watch a feel-good Singaporean documentary

If you haven't yet caught Eva Tang's Songs We Sang, about the history and music of Singapore's Chinese xinyao singersongwriter movement, it's having a second run at our favorite indie cinema. May 22 (3:30pm) and May 29 (4:30pm, Q&A with director to follow), The Projector, 5/F Golden Mile Tower, 6001 Beach Rd., www.theprojector.sg. $13.

MUSIC Upcoming concerts to get excited about LITTLE MIX Winners of The X Factor 2011, the ladies of Little Mix come to town as part of their Get Weird Tour. May 23, The Star Performing Arts Centre, www.sistic.com. $79-108. DAMIEN RICE He's been here twice, but given just how many of you get a bit lightheadedly joyful every time you talk about "Cannonball" we thought you'd like to know that sensitive Irish heartthrob Damien Rice is swinging by Singapore again. Jun 4, The Star Performing Arts Centre, www.sistic.com/ $68-148. Selena Gomez

Tegan & Sara

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

Panic! at the Disco

SELENA GOMEZ After cancelling on us back in 2014, Selena Gomez will finally perform in Singapore for the first time as part of her Revival Tour. Jul 27, Singapore Indoor Stadium, www.sportshub.com. sg. $98-168. TEGAN AND SARA Everything is awesome with indie pop duo Tegan and Sara coming to town. The twins will be here to promote their latest release, Love You to Death. Jul 29, The Star Theatre, www. sistic.com. $148-228.

SCANDAL All-girl rock band Scandal will be back in town to promote their seventh studio album, [YELLOW]. Jun 4, The Coliseum @ Hard Rock Hotel, www.sistic.com. $98-398.

KENNY ROGERS You loved his timeless hits (and his roast chicken) and now it’s time to celebrate the man stops in Singapore on his farewell tour. Aug 6, The Star Theatre, www.sistic.com. $88-228.

GENTLE BONES Singapore’s own Gentle Bones performs at the Esplanade Concert Hall for two nights (the Jun 10 show is already sold out). Jun 11, Esplanade Concert Hall, www.sistic.com. $35-55.

WEEZER From classics of our time like “Say it Ain’t So”, “Buddy Holly” and “My Name is Jonas” to new material from their fourth self-titled album (aka The White Album), it’s going to be one heck of a night. Aug 15, Suntec Singapore Convention & Exhibition Centre, www.sistic.com. $108-168.

GREYSON CHANCE Sure he's too young for you, but he's playing the cozy rooftop at Serangoon Garden, along with the lovely local singersongwriter Inch Chua. Jun 18, myVillage, Serangoon Garden, www.facebook.com/myvillage.sg. $90 in receipts.

PANIC! AT THE DISCO Join Brendon Urie and co as they drop by to promote their new album Death of a Bachelor. Aug 16, Suntec Singapore Convention & Exhibition Centre, www.sistic.com. $108-148.

now Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg

SCENE & HEARD

Singapore Theatre Festival

DRINK

FESTIVAL

Enjoy some lighthearted theater

Specializing in all things offbeat, wild and wacky in the world of the arts, Flipside 2016 takes place over 10 days and includes kooky performers like Hand Made, who create stories and characters using only their hands, and the hilarious physical comedy and optical illusions of Australia's Umbilical Brothers, along with tons of free and roving programs, too. May 27-Jun 5. Esplanade—Theatres on the Bay, 1 Esplanade Dr., www.esplanade.com. $35.

Winos, rejoice. The annual World of Wines market is hitting Sentosa with over 200 wines from 20 wineries around the world. The first day is for amateur to peruse and taste the wines, and the second is invitation-only for industry professionals (but we’re sure you’ll find a way to wangle an invite). May 29-30, The Coliseum @ Hard Rock Hotel, Resorts World Sentosa, www.75cl.sg. Free.

Bandwagon Riverboat

NIGHTLIFE

All Aboard Mark Jun 10-11 on your calendars, because that’s when Bandwagon Riverboat is back for a second edition. In case you don’t remember January, the event series involves partying, live music and food over three floors of a Mississippi tugboat. Not much info as of press time about tickets and line-up, but back in January it was the likes of .gif, Dru, blankverse and others. The boat will be docked over two nights (7pmmidnight, different line-up each day) at Marina South Pier. More updates at www.facebook.com/ bandwagonapp.

The Mau5 is Coming Don’t forget that EDM festival Ultra Singapore is happening for a second year Sep 10-11, and if you’ve been waiting to buy your tickets, maybe this will convince you to do so: the organizers announced last week that one of the headliners this year will be producer/DJ deadmau5. The two-day party is happening at Ultra Park on Bayfront Avenue, next to MBS, and tickets are on sale now, ranging from $160-190. Sorry, you missed the early bird promos.

Load up on bottles of fancy wine

SHOPPING

Party at a sky-high, imaginary beach

PARTY

CE LA VI is having another Sky High Brunch, a daytime pool party with free-flow Perrier-Jouet Champagne, cocktails and a serious buffet spread with highlights like ceviche, skewers and other party-friendly food. Brendan P and Joshua P will spin. Don't forget your best island-chic outfit—towels provided, though. Jun 4, noon-4pm, CE LA VI, 57/F, Marina Bay Sands, Tower 3, 1 Bayfront Ave., sg.celavi.com. $168 ($198 at the door).

STAGE

Stage Recap The Singapore Theatre Festival is back for a fifth time (Jun 30-Jul 24), with key productions from some of the island’s big theater companies being reprised at various venues. The highlight is Wild Rice’s Hotel, retelling the colonial history of Singapore as experienced by the staff and guests of a turn-of-the-century hotel. There’s also Hawa by Hatch Theatrics, following a recent convert to Islam as she plans a funeral for her close friend. We’re also excited about Alfian Sa’at’s GRC by Teater Ekamatra and Red Pill’s Let’s Get Back Together, an interview-style play about gay Singaporeans. Tickets range from $35-130 and are available through Sistic.

Swing by the flea market at the Capitol Piazza

Glitzy heritage building is hosting Makers Market at its outdoor plaza over three days, with local fashion and accessories labels, art work, original music and nibbles and baked goods. May 2729, 11 Stamford Rd., www.makersmarket.sg.

Matthew Murphy

THEATER

PHOTOGRAPHY

Sweet Celluloid Also back this year is the biennial Singapore International Photography Festival (SIPF), with events taking place between September and October. We don’t know much yet, but we’re especially excited in light of the strides DECK, aka the container photo gallery on Prinsep Street and HQ of the festival, has taken in its ambitious programming this year. We hear there are plans to bring world photography to Singapore’s subway system, as well as an all-female photography showcase and a retrospective on edgy Japanese photographer Dido Moriyama, in addition to dozens of shows, workshops and other events yet to be announced. Updates on www.sipf.org.

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

Dream a dream, shed a tear A musical that needs no introduction, Cameron Mackintosh's production of Les Miserables comes to the Esplanade for a limited season. May 31-Jul 17. Esplanade Theatre, Esplanade—Theatres on the Bay, 1 Esplanade Rd., www.sistic.com. $58-228.

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STYLE NOTES How to build a classic wardrobe with sleek everyday staples from Capitol Piazza.

Offering shoppers a wide range of exclusive cult designers and international luxury brands, Capitol Piazza is a one-stop destination for your sartorial needs. You will find top fashion houses such as British label Joseph and quirky Scandinavian brand Marimekko alongside edgy choices like Sabrinagoh and G-Star RAW. From work to weekend, here are some of the smartest essentials to have in your fashion arsenal right now, and why they will never go out of style.

For Him 1.

Sharpen a casual look with a pastel sports jacket.

If you can’t 5. get enough

$349, Goldlion, #B1-17.

of last season’s jogger pants trend, this pair of chinos is an equally comfy alternative. $159, Napapijri, #01-26.

Nothing makes an outfit look more on 2. point than a pair of well-made leather

dress shoes.

Dress up a 6. casual look

$645, Carmina, #01-66.

instantly with a denim jacket— simply throw it over a simple white tee for the weekend.

Look like you are 3. headed for the

Hamptons by propping a Panama hat on your head, and ooze debonair charm with a smooth shave at a traditional gentlemen’s barbershop.

$315, G-Star RAW, #B1-34/35.

$275, Hat of Cain at Truefitt & Hill, #01-61. From $60 for a traditional hot towel wet shave, Truefitt & Hill, #01-61.

Here’s how to look stylish in under one minute— just wear matching prints. $410 (shirt), $495 (shorts) and $515 (shoes), Joseph, #01-19/21.

You can never go 8. wrong with a functional

and easy-to-match backpack for laidback weekends. From $59, Outdoor Products, #B2-34.

Trade the usual 4. gray and black

suits for a sleek and universally-flattering jewel tone. Bonus points if you pair your jacket with preppy plaid pants. From $158-498, Benjamin Barker, #B1-30.

Dress your wrist with a 9. smartwatch that merges both

technology and style. But if you prefer a non-tech option, this chrono timepiece is a fail-safe choice. $245, Kenneth Cole at CLOUT9, #B1-32. $668.80, Seiko at TIME INDEX, #B2-27.

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bag instead-this cheery and versatile design is great for both work and weekend. $145 (yellow), $148 (red), Paperthinks at Mimento, #B2-17.

One simple (and practical) accessory to have on hand is a printed silk scarf—tie it around your shoulders if it’s too warm for a blazer. $175, Marimekko, #02-17/18.

Step away from safe black 6. and nude colors and

opt for a bold flash of metallic. $1,180, Rupert Sanderson at Julie Nicole, #01-17.

Investing in artistic 4. and luxe jewelry will

add a tasteful pizzazz to your outfit. $5,400 (earrings), La Putri #01-25. $1,700 (bangle), Freywille, #01-81.

Going denim-ondenim can be a chic look, as long as you mix it up with interesting prints and patterns. $560 (shirt), $960 (jacket) and $1,160 (jeans), 45R, #01-13/14.

Putting together an effortless outfit is 2. easy with a comfy jersey dress. $89, The Reckless Shop, #02-32.

Finishing Touches

Beauty and grooming must-haves for every fashionista. LANCÔME CAPITOL

Keep your smackers hydrated with a moisturizing lipstick.

Maintain youthful skin with a 45-min Youth Activating Facial Treatment.

$140, Lancôme, #01-12.

Essential Lip Serum Stick, $50, Sulwhasoo, #01-78/73.

Smell fresh all day with a natural deodorant.

Herbal Deodorant, $47, Aesop.

Maintain thicker, fuller looking hair with an easy two-step shampoo and scalp revitalizer.

Turn your tresses from drab to fab with a great blowout.

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city scape

Those Were the Days

For our 700th issue, and 21st year in print, we look back at major developments in Singapore’s lifestyle scene. By SG Staff

1995

1996

1997

THEN • The first issue of SG magazine, then known as I-S Magazine, hits the stands. One of the only indie (and free!) lifestyle mags around at the time, it would soon become indispensible to the city’s cool cats.

• The Asian financial crisis hits Singapore, though we would arguably be back on our feet in less than a year.

• Singapore’s resident auteur Eric Khoo makes his feature film debut, Mee Pok Man, about a noodle seller who falls in love with a sex worker. It is also the claim to fame for Tiong Bahru’s Hua Bee mee pok shop, where the film was shot, which now also houses hip Japanese izakaya Bincho.

• While the honor of being Singapore’s first microbrewery belongs to the long forgotten Orang Utan Brewery (which occupied the Jiak Kim Street site later made famous by Zouk), the opening of Brewerkz in 1997 set the stage for the craft beer culture we enjoy today.

• Humble Irish pubs have been part of great nights out in Singapore for what feels like forever, but the first only opened in 1995. Molly Malone’s was designed and built in Ireland before being shipped here and reconstructed. The Guinness and good times have been flowing ever since.

Singapore Art Museum

• The Singapore Art Museum officially opens in Bras Basah, restoring a 140 year-old monument to its former glory.

Mee Pok Man

2005

2003

2004

• The SARS outbreak hits Singapore. Any flu-like symptoms cause paranoia, schools are closed and temperatures are measured regularly. We also have to survive Phua Chu Kang’s rap on the virus that he just wanted to minus.

• The Singapore Tourism Board launches its “Uniquely Singapore” campaign. It ran from 2004 to 2010 with visitor arrivals increasing from 8.3 million to 11.6 million in that time.

• 10-year-old actress Megan Zhang becomes the first Singaporean to win a Golden Horse award for her role in Jack Neo’s 2003 film Homerun.

• The first season of the S. League kicks off after Singapore’s departure from Malaysian football in 1994.

• A star is born as Taufik Batisah is crowned the first Singapore Idol.

• Ministry of Sound opens in Clarke Quay, helming Singapore’s development as one of the world’s top nightlife cities. Or so we thought. It would shutter within three years and its parent company Lifebrandz would kick the bucket in 2015.

• Another exciting opening: ArtScience Museum, with exhibitions on The Silk Road and Genghis Khan, which seem pretty tame now compared to the Large Hadron Supercollider and Future World shows they’ve done most recently.

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

• Free paper Today suspends the column of blogging pioneer and social satirist mrbrown, in an infamous case of censorship.

Ministry of Sound

• Singapore hosts the 117th IOC Session with London winning the right to host the 2012 Summer Olympics. The session is best remembered for a botched rendition of the Olympic anthem which The Guardian would describe as “a fearful mauling”.

2011 • After six years of keeping it strictly Australia and NZ, Melbourne-native music festival St Jerome’s Laneway Festival roars into town, with Foals, Blonde Redhead, St Jerome’s Laneway Festival Foals, Feist and others. The other big arts and culture debut is Art Stage.

2006

2012

Gardens by the Bay

• Horticultural landmark Gardens by the Bay opens in Oct, showcasing over 400,000 types of plants from all over the world.

2013 • Anthony Chen’s Ilo Ilo wins the Camera d’Or for best debut feature at Cannes Film Festival, making him a poster child for Singaporean cinema and enshrining his story about a Filipino domestic worker’s friendship with a petulant Singaporean boy as a classic.

• The first Singapore Biennale is held, featuring the work of 95 artists and art collectives from 38 countries. More than 800,000 people visited in the course of its 10 weeks.

2014 • Our movie-going, beerdrinking lives are changed forever with the opening of The Projector in Golden Mile Tower. • The Singapore International Film Festival returns after a long hiatus and has been going strong since.

1998 • The Singapore national football team takes home its first ever international trophy: the 1998 Tiger Cup (now known as the AFF Championship). The Lions shocked hosts Vietnam in the final with R. Sasikumar scoring what would be dubbed “the Shoulder of God” goal.

2000

2001

• The first ZoukOut takes place on Sentosa. After 16 years, the overnight party festival would go to Boracay and Hong Kong under the ownership of Genting Group.

• While the world was still reeling from the September 11 attacks, Singapore has its own brush with terrorism. In December, the Internal Security Department arrested 15 members of the AlQaeda linked group Jemaah Islamiyah.

1999 • SR Nathan becomes Singapore’s 6th President in an uncontested election. He would become the country’s longestserving President.

Esplanade

• The armadillo-like Esplanade— Theatres on the Bay throws open its doors.

ZoukOut

2008

2007

2002

2009

2010

• The Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix debuts, billing itself as the first-ever night race. We no longer have the distinction, but the event would continue to be a highlight on the city calendar, with big deal concerts and days of fringe events.

• Lifestyle whiplash! Marina Bay Sands, Ku De Ta, ION Orchard, Resorts World Sentosa and even our favorite, grungy spot on Orchard, TAB all open in the same year.

Pink Dot

• Singapore Airlines SQ380 between Singapore and Sydney becomes the first ever commercial flight of the Airbus A380, the largest passenger aircraft at the time.

• The first-ever Pink Dot takes place at Hong Lim Park, with varying attendance numbers reported in the news, ranging from 500 to 2,500. The number in 2015 would be 28,000. • The Sentosa Boardwalk is built, connecting the Harbourfront area to party island.

Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix

• The original National Stadium is “officially closed” after a football match between Singapore and Australia. However, the iconic venue would continue to host events until 2010.

2015

Marina Bay Sands

2016 NOW • New rules on public drinking go into effect, forbidding public consumption of alcohol after 10:30pm—which might explain all the daytime drinking parties that would proliferate in the next year.

National Gallery

• The SG50 campaign takes over hearts, minds and lives for months.

The Projector

• It’s the year of restorations: the National Gallery, Victoria Theatre and the Capitol Theatre (and Capitol Piazza) all opened.

• Better late than never— it’s announced in late November that Singapore will be getting its very first Michelin Guide in 2016, with the famed food publication collaborating with the Singapore Tourism Board and Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate.

A Yellow Bird

• Singaporean filmmakers take the world stage once again, with directors Boo Junfeng and K. Rajagopal making their appearance at Cannes with Apprentice and A Yellow Bird respectively. Turn to page 22 for an interview with the latter filmmaker. • 28 HongKong Street officially becomes Asia’s best bar on Mar 31, with eight other Singapore bars like Manhattan (5), Operation Dagger (7), Jigger and Pony (8), Tippling Club (12), D.Bespoke (13), Gibson (22), Anti:dote (43) and Sugarhall (48) making inaugural Asia’s 50 Best Bars list

FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016 SG MAGAZINE

The latest openings and hottest trends in Singapore Erwin Soo

island NEIGHBORHOOD

Robertson Redux How four new hotel openings are set to transform the fancy riverside hangout. By SG Staff

Robertson Quay

M Social Singapore

ots of further-flung hoods—Jurong, Punggol, to name just two—have been in the news lately for major openings and rejuvenations. The latest brewing developments, however, are right downtown. The area around Robertson Quay, already big on restaurants and bars, is gearing up for a slew of hotel openings. And with hotel openings come new restaurants, and more staycation opportunities. From a well-known Starwood Hotels & Resorts brand to an F&B group’s first hotel venture, here are some noteworthy ones.

2. Four Points by Sheraton Singapore, Riverview Part of Starwood Hotels & Resorts, Four Points by Sheraton has earned a reputation for providing the creature comforts of a luxury hotel without the high room rates. Originally the Riverview Hotel, Four Points by Sheraton Singapore, Riverview will open on Jul 1 following a $25 million makeover, with 476 rooms, including nine suites, with views of the city and the Singapore River. The premium and deluxe rooms are geared towards business travelers, with spacious work areas and executive suites

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This is the one keeping us up at night. We’ve been waiting for almost a year, but details on the Lo & Behold Group’s first hotel are still limited. What we do know is that they’ve taken over a heritage warehouse building near Robertson Quay which used to be occupied by the 80s haunt Warehouse Disco. The 37-room Warehouse Hotel is slated to open late this year, right next to Four Points, with Lo & Behold also overseeing its restaurant and bar program. If their recent F&B openings—creperie The Daily Roundup and super-fancy Odette at the National Gallery— are anything to go by, it’s going to be something exciting. Updates at www.robertsonquay.com/the-warehousehotel.html.

Four Points by Sheraton Singapore, Riverview

3. The Warehouse Hotel

Opening in June this year, this hip boutique hotel by Millenium Hotels and Resorts is targeted at young professionals. Part of an integrated development that also includes luxury apartment project UP@Robertson Quay, the 293-room building houses a stylish communal concept designed by Philippe Starck. The design-centric hotel features statement sculptures, asymmetrical interiors, gleaming metal touches and loft rooms decked out in a warm color palette, with pashmina throws and thick carpets. State-of-the-art facilities include a self-check-in kiosk, and a complimentary smart phone equipped with a city guide and unlimited data usage. On the food front, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, Beast and Butterflies, serves fusion food and artisanal cocktails. If you’re a guest, you can also participate in I M Social Series morning tai-chi or yoga sessions at the pool deck. More at www.msocial. com.sg.

designed with living rooms. They’re going to keep existing restaurant tenants Irodori Japanese Restaurant and Imperial Restaurant and launch new F&B additions The Eatery and The Best Brew – the latter serving up a wide variety of beers at the hotel’s riverside terrace. Details at fourpoints.ht/1rZcbzU.

1. M Social Singapore

IV ER

4. InterContinental Singapore Robertson Quay Singapore’s second InterContinental Hotel doesn’t open until 2017 but it’s definitely on our radar. Replacing the former Gallery Hotel, this property is part of an ambitious plan helmed by RB Capital to turn Robertson Quay into a Singaporean version of New York’s West Village— but perhaps, minus the grit. With the InterContinental

Singapore Robertson Quay and Quayside Promenade as its centerpieces, The Robertson Quay Project will bring 100,000 sq. ft of F&B and retail space to the area, according to a recent story by The Business Times. The project website has so far revealed little new, offering pictures of existing restaurants, but you can stay tuned at www.robertsonquayproject.com

SHOPPING 3 exciting new retail stores

Aesop (Ion Orchard)

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

AESOP (ION ORCHARD) This cult Melbourne skincare brand has opened its first Orchard Road store at ION Orchard. The boutique's interiors are designed in collaboration with Snøhetta, an international architecture, brand and interior design company and it is perhaps one of the brand's more blinged-up spaces. Products are displayed on shiny gold counters and shelves, and a statement fringe chandelier made of timber battens features prominently on the ceiling. #B3-66/66A ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, www.aesop.com.

GOODLUCK BUNCH Occupying a rickety two-storey shop house in Kampong Glam, Goodluck Bunch is a simple 1,300 sq. ft space selling men's and women's fashion and accessories. The store curates a selection of under-the-radar and ethical brands from countries such as Denmark, France, Hungary, Australia and the US, and notable names include Danish utilitarian streetwear brand Wood Wood, and Nothing, an Australian fashion label with an irreverent aesthetic inspired by pop culture. 26 Bali Ln., www. goodluckbunch.com.

MIMENTO Launched by Adriana Lim Escaño, chief executive officer of accessories distributor Abry Pte Ltd, Mimento is a multi-label accessories store offering brands from countries like France, the US and the UK. Brands exclusive to the store range from award-winning jewelry labels like GAS Bijoux and Buckley London to cult names such as Jet Set Candy, known for its charm bracelets. #B2-17 Capitol Piazza, 13 Stamford Rd.

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eats

The inside scoop on Singapore’s drink and dining scene

TRENDS

Classic Fantastic 8 Singapore family diners that are probably older than you—here’s where you can wine and dine with your folks. By Chelsia Tan Prima Tower Revolving Restaurant

Samy’s Curry

Pasta Fresca Da Salvatore

Colbar

Shahi Maharani North Indian Restaurant

emember a time when eating out involved plastic checkered table cloths, vinyl booths and fancy-free menus? Before cocktail bars, “indie” cafes and trendy fusion restaurants helmed Singapore’s food scene, there were (and still are) local dining institutions like Pasta Fresca, Prima Tower Revolving Restaurant and of course, Shashilik. And since we are celebrating our 700th issue, we look back on some of our favorites.

Colbar

Red Star Restaurant

There’s a chance you’ll be making the trek here not so much for the food, but for the ‘50s colonial coffee shop’s oldfashioned and rustic charm. Located in Wessex Estate, its appeal lies in the area’s lush greenery, serene atmosphere and its Instagrammable iconic blue interiors. On the menu are unpretentious Hainanese-style Western dishes like pork cutlets, fish and chips and chicken curry rice, and a selection of milk shakes and English beers. 9A Whitchurch Rd.

Opened in 1974 by four Singapore “Heavenly Kings” of the ‘60s and ‘70s dining scene, masterchefs Sin Leong, Hooi Kok Wai, the late Tham Yui Kai and the late Lau Yoke Pui, Red Star is one of Singapore’s most well-known landmark restaurants. This dim sum institution is unlike other contemporary exports like Tim Ho Wan. Here, you get your dim sum wheeled out on old-school trolleys and the restaurant’s highlight is its affordable menu. #07-23 54 Chin Swee Rd.

Pasta Fresca Da Salvatore This 28 year-old South Italian restaurant, which has three newly-renovated outlets at Boat Quay, Siglap and Bukit Timah, prides itself on serving authentic, home-style cuisine. The restaurant’s affordable menu has hearty classics like sliced beef tenderloin in rosemary oil, as well as a wide variety of starters, pastas, pizzas and desserts. Pasta Fresca also partners with the Health Promotion Board and offers healthier alternatives with wholegrain choices. 30 Boat Quay, www.pastafresca.com.

Prima Tower Revolving Restaurant Just as its name suggests, this 39 year-old revolving restaurant doles out Beijing fare with a view of Keppel Harbour. The space might seem stuck in a Dynasty-era time warp, but this heritage brand is famous for its Peking Duck, Shredded Scallops with Fish and Egg White, the intriguing Three Non Stick, a traditional Northern Chinese dessert made from egg yolks, sugar and flour, and a menu headed by veteran Hong Kong chef Chan Sung Og. 201 Keppel Rd., www.pfs.com.sg.

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

Samy’s Curry Established by the late Mr M. Veerasamy in the ‘50s, this unpretentious and casual Indian eatery is pretty much an institution at Dempsey Hill for South Indian food lovers. Here, you’ll be dining on signatures like Masala Curry Chicken, Fish Cutlet and Fish Head Curry, all on banana leaves. The affable wait staff circle the floors with buckets of sides and rice, so if you’d like a top up, just raise your hand and you’ll have food heaped unceremoniously on your table. 25 Dempsey Rd., www.samyscurry.com.

Shahi Maharani North Indian Restaurant Tucked away on the third level of Raffles City, Shahi Maharani is a throwback to the ‘80s with ornate Oriental finishings inspired by the opulence of Indian palaces. We were told this fine-dining establishment has a loyal following and it’s not hard to see why—the wait staff are both friendly and attentive, and the food is a rich mix of staples ranging from tandooris, curries, dhal, chutneys and fresh naans. Come here for dinner, and you’ll be entertained by an atmospheric live

Indian classical performance. #03-21B Raffles City Shopping Centre, www.shahimaharani.com.

Shashilik There was quite a stir when news broke of Shashilik’s closure last year, but fans of the retro Russian restaurant can now breathe easy as it has reopened at the smoky corner of Far East Shopping Centre under the care of second-generation owners. Known for dishes like Baked Alaska and Cherries Jubilee, which were prepared tableside by Hainanese waiters, the restaurant retains its original atmosphere and most of its menu. #06-19 Far East Shopping Centre, 545 Orchard Rd.

Tambuah Mas This 35 year-old Indonesian restaurant is popular for its authentic home-style fare from Padang, Sulawesi and Java, with outlets in Paragon and Tanglin Shopping Centre. Don’t miss out on signature dishes like Tahu Telor; fried beancurd with eggs, Rendang Lembu; braised beef cooked in a mix of fragrant spices and coconut milk and Soto Ayam; comforting chicken broth with bean sprouts. #04-10/13 Tanglin Shopping Centre, 19 Tanglin Rd., www.tambuahmas. com.sg.

eats EVENTS

NEW AND NOTED

Fancy Feasts

with Chelsia Tan

Olivia & Co.

Hot Stuff

Steam Box

Tetsuya Wakuda

Isetan Scotts Supermarket

Hong Kong’s steampot food trend makes its way to Singapore with Steam Box, a type of steamboat that eschews conventional hot pot methods by steaming instead of boiling. Claiming to be a healthier alternative to traditional steamboats, which leaves behind a layer of fat, the steam cooking method is said to retain the food’s natural juices and nutrients. The menu comprises fresh meats, seafood and vegetable, with highlights like ginger chicken thigh with wolfberry ($4.50-9), Iberico black pork ($9-18), wagyu beef ($12.50-25), tiger prawns ($11.50-23) and egg custard buns ($4.80 for three). It also has a small selection of congee with century egg, pork rib and clams, and diners have the option of ordering dim sum dishes too. 68 Serangoon Garden Way.

NEW PLACES

Itadakimasu!

Finally reopening with a brand new grocery store and food enclave, Isetan Scotts Supermarket has revamped with modern, minimalist interiors, a permanent event stage showcasing authentic Japanese products and a “food theatre” section. Shoppers can dine in at Japanese eateries like WADining, which serves bentos with ingredients such as seafood from Hokkaido and wagyu beef from Kagoshima; Dashi Bar, an udon and soba diner known for its Hyoshiro dashi soup stock and Kaku-Uchi Sake Bar, a casual watering hole specializing in premium sake brands from various Japan prefectures. 350 Orchard Rd., www.isetan.com.sg.

What a Spread

Named after Olivia Cassivelaun Fancourt, the first wife of Sir Stamford Raffles, a new contemporary 60-seater bistro by the Arts House OCF people has a menu covering quick bites, brunch and Asian-inspired mains. Olivia & Co. aims to cover all bases with a crowd pleasers like waffles, chicken wings, burgers and sandwiches, and Western plates like barramundi with mashed potato ($24), and pescatore “fisherman” pasta with squid, prawns and mussels ($22). The cafe also does six different types of milkshakes, coffee, fresh juices and smoothies. #01-481/481A/483/483A Suntec City Mall, 3 Temasek Blvd., www.OliviaAndCo.com.sg.

The Epicurean Market returns for its fourth edition at the Sands Expo and Convention Centre from Aug 12-14, and the event maintains its focus on fine food, wine and spirits. There are 10 celebrity chef restaurants featured, and personalities like Tetsuya Wakuda, Daniel Boulard, Justin Quek and David Myers will be making appearances at over 50 interactive master classes. Besides boasting a star-studded line up, the food festival will also showcase a variety of gourmet produce, cheese, fine wines, handcrafted cocktails and craft beers from all over the world at a farmer’s market. Tickets go on sale from Jun 6. More information at www.marinabaysands.com/epicurean-market.html.

SERVICES

No Reservations

Food delivery service UberEats, an off shoot of ride-sharing company Uber, will be launching in Singapore within the next month. Sources have been quoted as saying that “at least 10 food and beverage outlets” have been approached by the service, which operates in 13 international cities including New York, Paris and Toronto. If you can’t wait for its launch, two existing food delivery services have jumped ahead with new promotions and collaborations. Foodpanda (www.foodpanada.com.sg) is offering free deliveries with every order placed till May 22. The company has also added new F&B partners such as Wine Connection, Potato Head Folk and Chotto Matte to its list, and more options in heartland hoods like Hougang and Sengkang. Not far behind, Deliveroo (www.deliveroo.com.sg) has announced its partnership with car sharing and taxi booking service, Grab. From now until Aug 7, customers who book Grab services can earn up to $40 Deliveroo credits per week, as long as they complete five or more trips a week on GrabCar (Economy) or use the app’s Flash feature that lets users find rides close to them. To participate in the promotion, register at www.grab.com/deliveroo.

Make every meal count

s g n o w . s g

SINGAP

ORE

RESTAURAN

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2016

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escapes

Holidays, hotels and insider travel news

Chimei Museum

TAIWAN

Southern Comfort

Fo Guang Shan Buddha Memorial Centre

Art, nature and tons of great street food are just some of the delights to discover when you travel south of Taipei. Plus, the train rides are lovely. Here’s what to catch. By Monruedee Jansuttipan Hinoki Village

Ten Drum Cultural Village

Tainan

The oldest city in Taiwan (it was the country’s capital for 200 years) sustained considerable damage during the earthquake in February this year. Dubbed the “Phoenix City” thanks to its rise and fall under various Chinese dynasties and Dutch colonists (1624-83), it’s now home to the new Chimei Museum (www.chimeimuseum. org), a grandiose neoclassical private museum founded by Shi Wen-long, one of the world’s richest men according to Forbes. The museum is separated into five categories of collections: Western arts, natural history, arms and armor, antiquities and artefacts, and musical instruments (here, you’ll find one of the largest violin collections in the world). Next stop is Ten Drum Cultural Village (www.tenhsieh.com.tw), which has transformed the old Rende Sugar Refinery into a cultural park where the Ten Drum percussionists perform in an amazing factory space where audience members sit above the old machinery. Inside is full of other attractions like a skywalk connecting the giant old molasses tanks and a stunning hidden cafe. It’s also home to a second-hand book shop, drum museum and classes, and even a movie set from the 2013 Taiwanese film Good Luck! Boy!, telling the story of a young musician chasing his dream. Another warehouse has been turned into a restaurant, Ten Drum Diner, where you can get a good meal beside five train carriages set beneath camphor trees.

SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, MAY 20, 2016

Pier-2 Art Center

Next, head to the wooden fort Chikan Lou or Fort Provintia, a 360-year-old Dutch outpost praised for its architectural and artistic significance. Save your remaining energy to visit Hayashi Department Store (www.hayashi. com.tw), Taiwan’s second oldest mall. It underwent a renovation in 2014, but the five-story space retains plenty of vintage charm and is filled with both local designers selling souvenirs as well as a Japanese restaurant and cafe on the rooftop. Eat here: You’ll find authentic local flavors at A Sha (goo.gl/FZ73mS), a Southern Taiwanese restaurant famous for its dried mullet roe (a pricy Southern delicacy) as well as mud crab with sticky rice. Stay: Tayih Landis Tainan Hotel (tainan.landishotelsresorts. com) offers spacious rooms with sweeping views of Tainan city and is set right next to Mitsukoshi shopping center. Room rates start at NT$8,000. Train time from Taipei: 2 hours, NT$1,350 per trip

Kaohsiung

Taiwan’s second largest city has emerged as a top tourist destination, offering natural and cultural attractions, a vibrant arts scene and delicious food. Start your exploration with a peaceful trek at the Fo Guang Shan Buddha Memorial Centre (www.fgsbmc.org.tw), which is home to an enormous, 108m tall seated Amitabha Buddha

Liuhe Night Market

surrounded by stupas representing the Four Noble Truths. Inside the expansive compound, you’ll also find the stunning golden Twin Pavilions Tea House, which offers visitors tea ceremonies and calligraphy workshops (book three days in advance). Though designed for clergy, the Welcoming Hall is now filled with shops and restaurants including a rare vegetarian Starbucks branch and Hi-Lai Vegetarian Restaurant, which offers super-delicious zero-meat dishes. Get a taste of contemporary Taiwanese creative culture at Pier-2 Art Center (goo.gl/M8Em1F), a modern art wharf which sits in a transformed warehouse complex at the old port. It includes an art plaza, exhibition warehouses, bookshop, theater, design shops and cafes along with a bike path. After dark, check out Liuhe Night Market, a food mecca packed with Chinese dishes, especially fresh seafood. Don’t leave without trying the local milk and papaya smoothies, either. Also save enough time to visit Formosa Boulevard MRT Station for its “Dome of Light,” a massive colored glass installation that displays a small light show every evening at 7:30pm. Eat here: Traditional Chinese restaurant Fwu Keh Lai (goo.gl/Kkvq6x) is one of the top spots for a grand meal. There are three branches: Ziyou 1st Rd., Linsen 3rd Rd., Qianzhen and Lane 229, Jiangong Rd.

escapes ESSENTIALS AIRLINES Plenty of full-service and budget airlines offer direct flights between Singapore and Taipei. Scoot, Jetstar and Tiger fly every day, as does China Airlines, EVA Air and Singapore Airlines.

National Palace Museum

Peimen Train Station

Stay here: Located right in the city center, the 186-meter tall Grand Hi-Lai Hotel (www.grand-hilai.com) offers luxe rooms with stunning views of the Kaohsiung sea port. Room rates start from NT$4,452. Train time from Taipei: 2 hours 20 minutes, NT$1,490 per trip

TRAINS Book high-speed train tickets and consult about unlimited passes at www. thsrc.ocm. Three-day passes start at NT$2,400, a flexible three-day pass is NT$3,200, while a five-day joint pass is NT$2,800 and a five-day express joint pass is NT$3,600.

Chiayi

Known as the “Doorway to South Taiwan,” Chiayi has long been the starting point for travelers heading to the picturesque Alishan National Scenic Area. Now though, the city is also home to the newly opened, NT$7.934 billion Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum (south.npm.gov.tw).

Founded late last year, this sister museum of the National Palace Museum in Taipei displays precious artefacts from the Chinese revolution including the reputed Jadeite Cabbage. Expect to find permanent and rotating exhibitions of other Asian artefacts, too. You can easily reach the museum from Chiayi high-speed railway station, from which it’s just a five-minute taxi ride. Spare some time to stroll around Hinoki Village (www.hinokivillage.com), the cultural village on Linsen Road which used to be the official Japanese residential area during the logging era of the 1900s. It consists of 28 newly-renovated traditional Japanese wooden houses built from cypress trees (called hinoki in Japanese). It’s now home to tea houses, craft shops and eateries.

Cross the road to take pictures at Peimen Train Station, which was built in 1899 as the starting point of the gorgeous Alishan Forest Railway that runs through cherry blossom tree tunnels every spring. Now though, the station is no longer in use.

CURRENCY $1 = NT$24 VISA Singapore citizens can enter Taiwan for tourism purposes for a period of up to 30 days. More information at www. taiwanembassy.org/sg.

Eat here: Chicken rice is the craze here. Head to Spraying Water Chicken Rice Restaurant on Zhongshan Road, where they have been serving this famous treat since 1949. The menu contains a huge list of other Chinese delicacies, too. Stay: Tsun Huang Hotel (www.hotel-thh.com) is a chic hotel just 10 minutes’ walk from the night market on Wenhua Road. Room rates start at NT$2,520. Train time from Taipei: 1 hour 30 minutes, NT$1,080 per trip

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last word

K. Rajagopal After several award-winning short films and then an 11-year creative hiatus, the Singaporean filmmaker’s first attempt at a feature film had its world premier this week at the esteemed Cannes Film Festival. A Yellow Bird follows an Indian man recently released from prison as he struggles to rebuild his life and relationships. Here, Raja talks to Mrigaa Sethi about the dearth of Indian stories in Singaporean cinema, the extreme poverty he saw while making the film and the lovely meaning behind the title. I’m third generation Singaporean. We’re Malayalees from Kerala, which was a minority group at Seletar Airbase and Jalan Kayu. My grandfather and father worked with the British Royal Air Force.

I sent it to the only platform we had for short films, which was the Singapore International Film Festival. My film won a prize that year. And you won’t believe it—the judge was Adoor Gopalakrishnan.

My father wanted me to learn Mandarin at school. I was in a class where it was all Chinese students.

I asked him, “Can I come watch you make films?” He said, “Give me five years of your life. That’s how long I take to make a film.” And of course, I didn’t go. I was young and frivolous. Well, not that young. I was 30.

I remember growing up not wanting to identify as Indian, because you got made fun of. My mother used to put oil on my hair and after a while I stopped because one a kid said, “Eh, so smelly.” But when I grew up I realized it’s so cool to be Indian. I made a trip to India, and I realized there’s so much to know about the land where my ancestors came from. I started to take pride in it. My first foray into the arts was in theater. I played the stereotypical roles—though I learned a great deal about acting and really I wanted enjoyed the ensemble work. There was always a frustration in me because you never got the lead parts or the big roles.

I knew I wanted to create a voice for the Indian, and my protagonist had to be Indian. There were Tamil movies and Hindi movies that people made fun of, but I was exposed to the parallel cinema of Kerala, the films of Adoor Gopalakrishnan, and I was really taken in. So I went out to do I Can’t Sleep Tonight. I got a friend who was working at Mediacorp at the time and said, “Can you help me? I need a camera.”

The Singapore Film Commission gave us the grant based on the script, and they made no demands. And the panel was a group of producers and festival people from around the world. They were the ones being pitched to. I don’t self-censor, but I would to avoid hurting anybody.

I continued making shorts, and then I stopped. I got nervous because I spent so much money. In fact, I had to borrow for my last one because I made it on 16mm film. I was very insecure. Even after making three shorts, I thought I knew nothing about filmmaking.

I made a commissioned film, Timeless, that explored the role of the Indian man over time in Singapore. I included an Indian gay man having an abusive relationship with his partner. I was advised that I might not be able to screen it, so I removed some of the sexual scenes.

There was an 11-year hiatus. Then Sun Koh and others were working on Lucky 7, and they wanted me to be a part of it. They were in their 20s and I was in my 40s.

I compromised a bit because I thought, “I’ve already made the film,” and to not show the film at all didn’t make sense to me at the time. I know someone who was upset with me for allowing it to be shown cut. But I had a director’s cut shown at The Substation separately.

to create a voice for the Indian.

I was working in Little India, moonlighting in a hotel as a night auditor. There was a new influx of Indians and Sri Lankans coming in the early 90s. There were illegal foreign workers asking me if they could sleep at the motel, and I would let them sleep on the floor because they had no place to go. They all couldn’t sleep at night, and I couldn’t sleep at night, and that’s how my first short film, I Can’t Sleep Tonight, came about.

kids. The woman was pregnant, and they were living on the void deck, sleeping on cardboard.

I met Fran Borgia [film producer, Akanga Film Asia] doing a performance of King Lear. He said, “Why don’t you make a film? This time there’s a grant. It’s not an investment. Let’s do it.”

So I wrote A Yellow Bird in 2012—the storyline, not the full script. We presented it and we got the grant. The title came from my childhood. My mother used to say, “If you see a yellow bird, make a wish. You’ll meet someone nice, or you’ll hear good news.” Looking out for that bird was this hope that I had in my childhood. There have been hardly any Singaporean films that are in Tamil, with a Tamil or Indian story. That makes me think that I should do more and continue. Our lives are not just about casinos and the financial center and a modern city-island. You wouldn’t believe the living conditions I saw looking for a location in Little India. But every house had a TV.

I don’t think there should be any restriction to filmmaking. Every film has to be taken for what it is. The rating system is fine. But even then, anyone above 18 is old and mature enough to be discerning. Sometimes, I’m broke. I pay my bills late. Then I get reprimanded in that way that family reprimands, like “Can you please be more responsible?” But when they came for 7 Letters at the Capitol, they didn’t expect such a hoo-ha about it. And when I told them about Cannes, they were all very happy. My mom was very supportive. She used to cut out articles. After she passed away, I found them under the cupboard. She had religiously cut every story, even though she’d never spoken about it. She loved films. She’s the one who told me to watch Adoor’s films. She knew my taste for films, and when she watched a good film, she would say, “You’ll like this one.”

The idea of the protagonist being homeless came from people living under my block, a Malay family with two

THIRSTY? Don’t miss out on our guide to the best of the Singapore nightlife scene—more than 100 of our favorite nightspots, from the best rooftop bars and cocktail gems to the coolest microbreweries and wine lounges. Head to is.gd/SGbestbars to download the e-guide, it’s free.

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